# Affordable Traction



## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Recently there have been some posts about increasing traction and locking rear ends. A simple solution would be to look for an older Bolens tubeframe with a locking rear. Many can be found in running condition for less than $500. Recently I picked up a '69 1050 for $75 needing a little tinkering and a battery. Even though only 10hp they have plenty of pulling power and will handle almost anything you can throw at them. You can also find 12hp and 14hp models such as a G14. There is a knob in the center of the left rear wheel that you can tighten to obtain the desired degree of traction. Although not a shift on the fly setup, it only takes a few seconds to stop the tractor and spin the knob. This can be done while still in gear so there is no need for shifting back to neutral. Another plus in looking for these tractors on the cheap is that there is an end play adjustment for the rears which most people ignore. Over time the tranny will slip and make all kinds of knocking noises. Don't be scared off if you start one and try to drive it and this happens. By all means pay accordingly as if the rear is gone, but before swapping it out try the end play adjustment. Another common repair would be a stuck clutch from sitting outside, it can usually be freed up with a screwdriver and hammer. Here's a photo of the traction control knob...


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## aegt5000 (Feb 22, 2004)

Sure seems like a much more practical approach than all of the
suggestions I have read on contorting the existing Hydrogears 
into locking differentials.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

Speaking for myself, it'll be 12 months before I have a house. Owning 2 tractors is not practical unless I own and live in a house, just like you guys. So, for the time being, I have to do EVERYTHING with just ONE tractor. So, for me to enjoy a locking differential, I either start all over by buying a Simplicity Prestige(it satisfies my requirements), or a install a 338-3000 Hydro-Gear transaxle(this is the model which simply bolts in my tractor). The cost of the 338-3000 is $761.
But, I'm curious about the Bolens knob which is outside of the wheel. It appears that it's more of a locking hub with adjustable friction, rather than a true differential spider gear lock. I suppose it's possible that it could also be a friction adjustment for internal clutches similar to a posi-traction differential. Is there a source where a person could find a copy of a diagram(drawing) which would answer these questions? Whichever it is, it would not offer the practical/useful feature of a true spider gear lock.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Reminds me of my Aisin locking hubs that were on my 4wd 4runner. Nice equipment!!!


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Willie
Go to www.sonnysbolens.com click on manuals at top of page then click tubeframes at top left on second page then 1050 download on 3rd page. It's all done with gears, no cluthes.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

sixchows,
The first thought, after I opened the link, was that without knowing which model number to look at, it would take my dial-up system too long to search for the one that I could guess was the right one. I tried to open one anyway. But, apparently my computer is not equipped to open any of those files.
However, by the mention of "it's all done with gears", the chances are good that it's nothing more than an adjustable lock on the hub, otherwise Bolens would've simply installed a spider gear lock which can be operated with a small lever, without getting off of the tractor. Thanks anyway.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Willie
I gave you the model # it's "1050" Just follow what I said before 1st page sonnys home page click on "mauals" at top of page, 2nd page click on "tubeframes" on upper left side of page. On 3rd page look for "1050 download" on the right side. I'm on dial up also it's not that big of a file. Do you have adobe acrobat reader?
And there is no need to get off the tractor, simply reach down inside the wheel and spin the knob to the desired degree. 
As for bolens technology, they were way ahead of their time and didn't skimp on anything. These tractors are shaft driven to the tranny through an automotive style clutch and pressure plate brake and all pto attachments are shaft driven through gear boxes. There were over 30 attachments available for these 8-12hp tractors of the late 1960's. Attachments that most wish they could find today. There was a Johnson FEL with full hydraulics, a Danuser post hole digger, trenchers, mid mount graders, all the things you need for the job at hand. Don't be so quick to dismiss these as some older underpowered equipment. With the proper attachments they will do far more with the 10hp than anything made today unless you were to get into a CUT.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

sixchows,
Yes, that's the page and place where I was( on Sonny's website). I keep trying to open the 1050 file, it unloads, but it keeps telling me it's in Kodak EasyShare tif. My computer can not, will not, open it. I'm sure it's my fault due to the fact that I'm computer ignorant. Yes, I have Acrobat Reader, and I've opened many files previously.
Please be aware that my analysis of the Bolens hub adjuster is not an analysis of the Bolen legacy. Obviously, you're a major fan of Bolens, just as much as some are major fans of Gravely, or Wheel Horse. I'm not loyal to any brand. I just want a locking differential with an hydro tranny, and I want on-the-fly capability that doesn't take more than 5 seconds to engage or disengage.
If there is no such animal, or if for some reason I can't have it, I will have no choice but to keep on working at the slower pace that my tractor is limited to(due to its limited traction).


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## guest (Sep 16, 2003)

willie & 6 chows..
i tried to open the downlaod under manuals, tube frame, 1050 and only got one page looks like the title page of the manual.. nothing else..


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

sixchows,
Something else came to mind. There's no way that someone my size, my age, and with my physically challenged condition could reach a rear hub without falling out of the seat. I'm not so sure they meant for you to do the adjusting that way. Does yours have that feature?


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

That's the way it's done, there's no reason to get off the tractor. You simply reach over to the left wheel and turn the hub, really not a big deal or anything difficult. I guess for anyone whose physically challenged even the simplest of tasks can present a problem.

Anyway the purpose of this thread was to shed some light on a simple yet extremely strong series of tractors that can be found for not a lot of money and be used as real workhorses. I'm familiar with your situation and fully understand about not having the room or need for two tractors. I'm also not suggesting you replace your husqvarna. In fact this thread wasn't aimed at your specific situation, but rather meant as an informative option for others looking for used equipment that really is more than capable of performing with far less hp then the box store brands. To those unfamiliar with these tractors they appear to be underpowered and useless which couldn't be further from the truth. 
If anyone is interested look around the photo section at sonny's and then click on links. Try jacques lacasse page and the photo there.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

SJ
I'm only getting the first page now also but I have downloaded from there in the past. Sonny's is a strange place at times, most times they're too busy to even answer the phone so who knows if they are maintaning the site.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Here's alink to the 1969 Bolens brochure featuring the specs for the 1050, notice the controlled differential photo
http://jacqueslacasse.tripod.com/Bolens/Brochure1969/page10.htm

From there, click on page 4 for a better description of the the controlled differential. Then go to pages 18 & 19 for the attachments that were available including photos of each. Keep in mind that most of these are for the tubeframe series, the large frames actually had less available.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

sixchows,
I read the brochure. With regard to the adjustable hub, I don't like my conclusion. They use the words "adjustable traction", and they say the adjustment works on a brass cone that ties the left wheel hub to the right wheel hub. In my view, the only way you could have adjustable traction is if the axle was solid, the left hub was free-wheeling, and you had the capability of incrementally securing the left hub to the axle. This means the tractor would begin with only the traction afforded by the right tire, then you could start bringing in the traction of the left tire until both tires are locked together.
This implies that this tractor does not have a conventional spider gear differential. If it did, then I don't see how the brass cone would be necessary, or how it would bring both half-axles together. Does anyone know?


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## aegt5000 (Feb 22, 2004)

sixchows…

Your right about how much power these old lower hp tractors can
deliver to the rear wheels. When I first got my 1250 (12hp Wisconsin)
I positioned it with the FEL bucket flush against a curb and nudged the
hydro peddle forward. The tractor would easily spin BOTH 26x12x12
turf tires on clean asphalt.

Willie….
For less than $761.00 you could put your Husky in storage for 12 months
AND buy a good used 1050.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Willie
Let me try to explain, the axle is a solid shaft that runs from one side to the other. In the center there is a 22tooth bevel gear an upper and lower 10tooth pinion gears, a worm wheel, connected to another22tooth bevel gear which is then connected to the drive hub on the right side. Another way of looking at it might be that it's a solid 2 wheel drive axle that you loosen up to allow only one wheel to turn. Not sure if any of this is making sense, but if you could see the diagram it would really clear things up.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Willie
> Let me try to explain, the axle is a solid shaft that runs from one side to the other. In the center there is a 22tooth bevel gear an upper and lower 10tooth pinion gears, a worm wheel, connected to another22tooth bevel gear which is then connected to the drive hub on the right side. Another way of looking at it might be that it's a solid 2 wheel drive axle that you loosen up to allow only one wheel to turn. Not sure if any of this is making sense, but if you could see the diagram it would really clear things up. *



I get it sixchows. So the left hub has the brass cone, that works like a cone clutch, or a syncrnizer . Seems like a simple soulution to a complex problem. Normal use you could leave it loose, suspect aeras you could put a little load on it, to give the wheel grip, but still let some slip in turns. Or you could lock it up tight for max traction. 

Some times it takes a step back in time to find a fresh idea for a problem.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Paul
Thats it and once locked there isn't any slippage until you back off the hub.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

It has become apparent to me that we are divided in how we see the old and the new. For instance, to me, a new spider-gear differential with a quick lever to engage/disengage a differential lock, is head and shoulders better than this old technology. 
Look, I've been around classic/fully restored machines of all kinds, and I've really enjoyed them. Almost all of them(I can't remember an exception) were owned by people who drove around, or flew around, in modern machines with all the modern conveniences. It's almost like a double standard. Yeah, we really thing the old classics were the best, but let me enjoy the modern conveniences. 
Clearly, you need to have a passion for the old classics in order to come up with the patience to find them and to hunt for parts and to operate them. I don't have this kind of passion. I like the new stuff. Tractorwise, I'd love to have a Simplicity Prestige. And, since it's not in the cards, I'll have to settle for second or third best. I guess I don't really belong in a forum of tractors which are no longer in production.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Seems like a good idea. On a garden tractor, in my opinon, if there is any slippege of a single drive wheel,[ie around a corner, wet ground etc] they would be better locked. About the only advantage spider gears would have in a GT app, it in streight line/eaquil traction, bulth drive wheels put the power down to the ground. In an open diff with spiders, and unloading of wheels, would leave to loss of traction. At leat in this case the right wheel will always turn, and if it's that bad, lock it.

IMHO a spider gear diff is one way to do it, but in a GT, it is not the only way. Thanks for letting us in on this Sixchows.


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## aegt5000 (Feb 22, 2004)

Here are the pages that show the 1050 transaxle innerds, hope the pic’s are clear enough.

<img src=http://img51.photobucket.com/albums/v155/aegt5000/1050_pg_2.jpg>

<img src=http://img51.photobucket.com/albums/v155/aegt5000/1050_pg_3.jpg>


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

aegt5000
I was hoping someone could post them. I was even considering looking for an affordable scanner as I have many manuals and brochures for these and maybe could share them. I know I enjoy looking at old catalogs and manuals from things I have or used to have.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Willie
Why do you say you don't belong in a forum about tractors that are no longer in production? What difference does it make? Just relax and enjoy the conversation. No one is saying that this rearend is the be all and end all of tractors, but it's a simple functional and proven design. I have 3 of these a 67,68, and 69 and all the rears still work just fine. Actually before the internet and eBay in particular there were a lot of lean years as far as parts were concerned but now you can find just about anything you need.
Anyway back to my original point, if anyone comes across an old low hp tubeframe, by all means give it a chance. I promise you won't be dissappointed.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

sixchows,
I say I don't belong here because it's very difficult to put into words a respectful disagreement. People get their feelings hurt way too easy. For example::
..."Another way of looking at it might be that it's a solid 2 wheel drive axle that you loosen up to allow only one wheel to turn....."
You see, in my view, this is the worst design for a differential that there is. It's almost as if the designer believed that a solid axle(locked differential) was VERY important for tractoring. But, it seems like his idea of a differential was an afterthought.....just disconnect one hub. My operation of a tractor requires being able to turn tightly, immediately after completing a "locked-differential" pull. Isn't that how you plow a small field(veggie garden)? But, like most operators, I want to be able to disengage, and engage, the differential lock instantly. Apparently, all the modern small tractors that have a locking feature for the differential agree with this concept. Non of them use the Bolen-type adjustable single hub. IMO most of the modern innovations are there more as a normal standard development(dictated by the customer), as opposed to true innovation. "Modern" is synonymous with the latest and best methods of doing things, be it form or function. 
IMO there's a common thread that runs through the reasons for the bullet-proof tractors going out of production. The classic Bolen, Gravely, Wheel Horse, and others, were built to last too long. We all admire that quality, but let's face it, it was just one more nail in their coffin(business-wise).
Therefore, I belong in the Craftsman or Husqvarna or John Deere or Cub Cadet or Simplicity forums.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

Here's another reason I don't think I belong here::

"Willie….
For less than $761.00 you could put your Husky in storage for 12 months
AND buy a good used 1050."

This looks to me like it implies that a Bolens 1050 is better than my GTH2548.......which implies that I wasted my money. But, it would be OK to spend $1,200 for storing my tractor for 12 months, and then spend some more money to adapt my J-B Jr, and other stuff, to the Bolens. What's weird is that the above suggestion was made by a person who has a tractor like mine.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Willie, I think you clearly need to become less defensive with regard to mild commentary and opinions concerning your on-going conversion plans. People who post here in general and especially on this thread (in the Bolens forum) are here to share knowledge and have meaningful insightful discussion. Agree to disagree, but I have not seen anyone specifically attack you at all on this thread. 

Best of luck with your plans.
Andy


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

admin,
sixchows invited me to:: "...What difference does it make? Just relax and enjoy the conversation....."

I actually enjoy the tractor conversation, please take my offerings as exactly that, as I really don't have much to be defensive about. Just because I'm curious about where someone is coming from(with their suggestions) doesn't mean that I'm attacking that person in any way. My agenda is to learn all that I can so as to achieve my goal of ending up with the tractor feature that I want, but within the constraints of my present "homeless" situation, and without borrowing money. Who knows, after I build the house I might be back here on the Bolens forum, maybe the Wheel Horse forum, talking about my restoration project. Not for the utility of the tractor, but just to enjoy the actual restoration. 
Thanks for the good wishes.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Willie
I can only speak for myself but I've used a brinly moldboard plow, disc harrow and cultivator like yours for many years to make a garden. Some guys like to start at the middle and alternate rows back and forth. For this you could make wider turns with the rear locked or loosen the hub a little, yea it might get annoying after a couple times. What I usually do is start the first row and backup along side it, drop my right wheels in the row I just made and then pull the second row and just keep repeating the process. I can tell you this as I own both a craftsman GT and the 1050. They will both do the same job, but with the bolens I can pull these attachments with only the hub locked and the 30 something year old turf tires that are starting to get a little stiff. With the craftsman I need chains and 2 wheel weights on the l/r 1 on the r/r and another mounted on the front to keep the nose down. I'm not knocking modern technology nor am I promoting 1960's technology. They are just two different machines from two different times and places. My craftsman is a 6spd and with weights and chains spins both rear wheels just like the bolens.
After adding the electric lift kit to my craftsman, I will admit there is alot to be said for the conveince of throwing a switch.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Willie, maybe you could mount a handy linear actuator to move the hubs into position from your seat, then you wouldn't have to get out of position. This might be a suitable option. In any case,
thanks for sharing all of your thoughts and experience.


:headclap:


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## aegt5000 (Feb 22, 2004)

Willie…
My comment about you being able to buy a 1050 and store the
GTH2548 was offered in jest. Sorry it was received as a negative.
It was not intended to offend you or your decision to purchase the
tractor you did. I also would like you to know that I have a lot of 
respect for the things you have done with your tractor and trailer.

That being said, I completely disagree with your blanket statement
that new is better than old. While your specific, unique, individual
requirement might be better served by a different type of locking 
system than Bolens used on the 1050, there are numerous applications
where the newer design would offer no advantage over the old.

After you get settled into your new home, I hope you will consider
restoring one of these older Bolens tractors. With your appreciation
of mechanical design, I believe you too will be overwhelmed at how
well these tractors were built. As sixchows said, with the ability to
access parts and service manuals on line, getting parts for them is not
that big a deal.

I am sorry I did not know about these tractors back when you were 
asking for help selecting a tractor. As you know I have a GT5000 and
still believe it represents on of the best values in a garden tractor today.
However, since then I have purchased a Bolens large frame 1250 with
FEL for $1400.00. I won’t need the loader until the fall, so I decided
to restore the tractor over the summer, but I could have dug a pool out
with it the day I unloaded it off the truck. I later bought another Bolens
large frame HT-23 for $1500, this tractor has hydraulic connections at
the front, center and rear. The tractor is in great condition (575 hrs).
You can see an HT-23 in action on Johnny Products site with a fully 
hydraulic Johnny Bucket Sr. I would have recommended you get one
of these for the early stage’s of your home build project and then let you
decide what you wanted to do, after the house and landscaping were 
completed.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Good points there, aegt5000.... 

Looks like the Bolens would make a fine tractor that might fit his needs a little more suitably in the future. Thanks for sharing your comments --- Post some pics when you can! These Bolens sound like mini-tanks!

-Andy


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Here's the tranny on a 1220 same as a 1050 just has a 12hp engine http://jacqueslacasse.tripod.com/Bolens/1220_man/page2.htm

From this link you can scroll through the complete parts diagrams for the 1220 to get an idea of how they were built, shaft drive, clutch, brake etc... Nothing primitive at all about these machines. They also came in hydro as a 1225 with the patented "treadle pedal" one pedal to control forward/reverse.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

OK, I'll explain one more time. Once I finish prepping my property for house building, and finish doing all the grading(and it might happen if it ever stops raining) I will absolutely not need any tractor, other than my GTH2548, to do further work on my property. If I were to ever buy an old classic, it would be for the enjoyment of restoring it, NOT for the purpose of putting it to work. I appreciate everyone's speculation on what my needs are, but that's not the area where I need help. I anticipate a few jokes on what my needs might be, but the jokes will go unanswered(no LOL here). Not that I don't have a sense of humor, it's just that I have not been able to properly explain what I need and tie it to what I like and how I like to do things. You guys are starting to sound like my ex-wife, trying to change me into your way of thinking.


aegt5000,
It would not have made any difference if you had suggested that I buy a used tractor(of any description). You see, I decided early on that the best way for me to begin my involvement with small tractors was to buy a brand new, known-brand, 30-day satisfaction guaranteed tractor that was immediately available locally, from a store that I liked. I needed a tractor when I needed a tractor(I had a deadline to meet, that the city had imposed). I did NOT want to pay them $250 to cut the weeds and the grass on my lot. The cost of paying an independent yard service was higher. And, I had previously rented a machine, and had vowed not to do that again(for several reasons unique to my on-call job situation).
I want to repeat, I am satisfied with my choice of tractor(GTH2548). The only other tractor that I would've bought is one I can't afford.
It's my nature to try to improve every vehicle I own, and looking back, I've done it with every single vehicle I've ever owned(land, water, and air). Being different is nothing new to me.

I'm convinced that all of you just want to be friendly and help me. And, I appreciate it. But, I get the distinct feeling that I will never be accepted into this fraternity until I at least do one single thing that one of you suggests to me. Just to put it to rest, right now, the only tractor I would consider buying(used) is a clean one-owner Simplicity Prestige, and I don't buy sight-unseen, and there aren't any around here, and I won't travel to go see one. Yes, I can hear myself talking, and I sound defensive and ungrateful. It doesn't matter to me....obviously. I know darn well that a true friend will simply help, and without reservation and inuendo. Of course, I only have 5 of those(friends). Yes, I'm pretty narrow-minded(there's only ONE tractor that fills the total bill). I already own a good "compromise" tractor, why should I buy another one? 

sixchows,
Thanks for the fine drawing of the Bolen axle. It's as you described, and I imagined..... EXtremely well constructed, bullet-proof, not modern, not out-sourced, not "cutting-edge".
Thanks again for everything.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Do I sound like your ex-wife too, Willie? That is my single goal: to change you into my method of thinking. Have a laugh and relax.
We are all here to help each other.

:grapevine


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