# Starting Issues with International Harvester



## Commoner05

I recently purchased a 1957 International Harvester Model 350 Utility with a gas engine. I am having an issue with starting this tractor. I recently had a friend of mine tune it up including new plugs, wires, points, condenser, rotor, distributor cap. I was having trouble starting before the tuneup and that continues. When I try to start, it cranks but will not turn over and start. I try to choke, try alter the throttle, after a few cranks, it floods. I know it is flooded because there is gas coming out the weep hole in the bottom of the bowl of the carburetor. I pull a plug to check for spark and I have spark. The plugs are dry though? Today I pulled the bowl off of the carb to check the bowl to see if it was plugged. It was pretty clean, but I used carb cleaner to clean the area out. Put back together and still no start. I am a rookie to tractor ownership and working on them. I feel that I am missing something here. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.


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## PeteNM

New parts aren't always good. If you are sure the gas flow is open, when it's hot or cold, and there is spark at the spark plugs, then check the timing. If you have fuel and spark at the proper time it should run. Also make sure the air flow is open.


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## Commoner05

Tried to start the tractor today and when I opened the garage door, I could smell gas. There was a pool of gas under the tractor and it was leaking from under the carb bowl that I cleaned yesterday. Shut off the fuel line and cleaned up the mess. Did not want to create a spark with all of the gas and fumes in garage. I assume that I have a float issue? It looked okay, but I did not actually use a measure check? How do I make sure that the air flow is open? It might seem like a silly question, but I am learning on the fly. Last I knew. I had spark at the plug, but I will check again once things dry out a little. I have not checked the timing. When I parked the tractor last, it was running really well. I am missing something here?


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## sixbales

You may have a flooded float, not closing the needle valve, allowing gas to flow all the time??

Is your spark Bluish-white? An orange-yellow spark is not good enough.


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## PeteNM

That old tractor should have a Zenith updraft carb on it. If the float is set to high it will not shut off the flow of gas. If it's set to low it won't let gas in. Sometimes the float itself get a hole in it and fills up with gas making it to heavy to close the needle valve. If the needle valve gets a groove in it that might cause a leak also. Same with the seat. In any case gas should not be running of the floor. HTH


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## mrfred

you say it cranks but will not turn over and start. is it turning over to slow????. maybe you have a starter issue. check the battery connections and the ground and starter connections and make sure the battery is in good condition.


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## Commoner05

I will try the suggestions, thank you all for responding. More to follow.


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## film495

since you said it was running when you parked it, I would not think you bunked up the timing somehow. likely the float flooding issue sounds the most realistic. Possibly you can turn of the gas, and see if you can get it to fire with starter fluid, just to check to make sure you're getting some combustion. If you're flooding, fix that gas problem and go from there since it is a know problem you have to fix. probably, you needed a carb kit, and not an ignition tune up, but trial and error is part of the fun.


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## Commoner05

Trial and error seems to be my middle name at this point I pulled the carb bowl again and the float is hanging uneven. I will try to level and adjust the float. It appears that I need to set it at 1 7/8" hanging from what I am reading. I assume I can gently bend the float into place? I must have bumped it the other day. It used to flood when attempting to start, but not just sitting there. I wondered about a carb kit? I tuned it up because when it stopped starting, we found that the condenser wire had broken. I figured while we had the distributor apart, might as well give it a tune up and I had a friend that knew how to do that. I agree with the timing, never touched it that I know of. I will try to adjust the float and try to start. It has been sitting for weeks and weeks at this point since last start. If I use starter fluid, do I spray into the carb where the flipper is at the inlet from the oil bath air cleaner? Thanks.


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## film495

I'm not an expert, but I spray just a tiny bit into the cylinder, then replace spark plug. 

I think you can bend the float, as long as you get it into a shape where it will float up on the gas and stop the flow when the carb bowl is full. I think you're a little better off in your case to have it stop the flow of gas a hair early leaving a touch less gas it the carb than too much, since you've been flooding if I was to err I would try to err on this side. Honestly, I hate using starting fluid, but from my experience, some machines don't like to sit, they like to be run, and it has been the only way I've been able to get some older motors running.


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## PeteNM

I doubt starting fluid will tell you much but if you use it, do it sparingly. You can tell about the float setting by adjusting it then blow through the inlet. If it shuts off no gas should go through. Level sounds OK but a worn needle valve and seat could alter that some. Either way, this will tell you where you stand. Also will tell you if your needle valve is worn clear out. HTH


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## Commoner05

The starting fluid did nothing as noted above After adjusting the float once again the carb bowl is installed. When I crank it, it has good power as the battery measures at 12.40. It cranks strongly and for as long as I dare. I had the throttle at full and also less than full. Did not choke in the beginning but when choked for a little, it flooded once again. I pulled the first and last plug to check and they were both dry. I checked for spark and it has spark and it "looks" strong. When the carb bowl was off, I again cleaned and sprayed with carb cleaner. Where does the gas go after the carb bowl and before it hits the plugs? Could I have an issue somewhere there? I appreciate everyone trying from a distance, I can only imagine how difficult it is. Thanks again.


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## mrfred

if the spark plugs are not getting wet with gas then it sounds like your cylinder walls and rings are dry and will not suck the gas up into the cylinders. try squirting oil into each sparkplug hole. take an oil can with pump handle and pump about 6 to 8 pumps of oil in each cylinder and replace the plugs and try starting as you normally would


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## Commoner05

Thanks mrfred, appreciate your thoughts. The tractor has sat for several weeks at this point without starting. The last time is ran, it worked like a charm. Parked it in the garage and there she sits to this day. We have done a complete tuneup on it including points, condenser, rotor, new distributor cap, plugs, and wires. Have also pulled the bowl of the carb off a couple of times and cleaned with carb cleaner and adjusted float. Sounds like 6-8 pumps of oil directly into each cylinder to lube them up might work? Worth a try, I will let you know what happens. Thanks again.


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## film495

The oil in the cylinders is a good thing to try. What are the default settings on the carb? Possibly the mixture adjustment is closed too much, or the needle is clogged, not getting any gas to engine. If you can find the settings, starting over from a generic/default setting may help you.

Putting a little starter fluid or gas directly into the cylinder should get the machine to turn over. If it doesn't my guess would be you have another issue as well as a gas flow issue.


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## Commoner05

Thanks film495, appreciate your thoughts. The main metering value on the front side of the carb bowl is set a 1 1/2 turns out after it bottoms out lightly. The idle adjusting screw is set at 3/4 turn out. I have not touched the throttle adjusting screw. I currently have the float set at 1 7/8", but just saw that maybe it should be set at 1 5/16"? That might make a difference as it is almost 1/2"? When I had the carb bowl off, I cleaned the main discharge jet with carb cleaner and installed back. Maybe I need to back the main metering valve out a little? I am charging the battery at this point and will try when I have a full charge. I feel close, but not close enough. Thanks again.


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## Commoner05

Well not much good news to report after a few more hours of labor. Today I removed the carb bowl again to recheck everything. I removed the discharge nozzle and totally sprayed with carb cleaner and installed back. I removed idle metering jet and cleaned the hole, it was clean and spray came out the other end. I cleaned the air bleed hole out. I double checked the Main jet on the front of the carb bowl, again spraying and cleaning. I watched it lightly bottom out, then backed it out 1 1/2 turns. I documented the position of the screw slot when bottomed out for the future when I can't see in. I removed the Idle screw and sprayed carb cleaner in and reinstalled and backed out 3/4 of a turn. I then worked on the float. I removed the axle, float, and valve needle carefully. I was able to do some research in my Service Manual and Shop Manual and it said to set the float at 1 5/16" when the inlet needle is closed. After much trail and error, I adjusted the float, I think If I understand this measurement correctly, it is measured from the bottom of the carb, still on tractor, to the bottom of the float when it rises up? It was pretty close and is now 1 5/16". I had it at 1 7/8", but after seeing the setting in my manual, I decided to go with the 1 5/16". The float and needle seemed to go up and down smoothly so I installed the bowl back on carefully. Put everything else back together and gave it a go. It did the same exact thing....crank and crank but would not start. I pulled plug # 1 and it was dry? I decided to add a little starter fluid to # 1 while I had it out as I did not have any extra gas. Still no start. I then pulled each plug and pumped 4 pumps of engine oil into each cylinder. No start. I checked all plug connections, all connections on the distributor, checked the firing order to be sure we had it correct, which we do. I cranked and cranked hoping it would pop, nothing! The carb bowl flooded again of course. I had the throttle at different settings, and no choke, some choke, more choke. No start. I had seen in one of the manuals that I was reading last night that the main jet on front of the carb bowl could be as many as 5 full turns out so I backed it out a total of 3 1/2 turns, nothing. The starter was actually hot to the touch so I decided to stop. The battery was fully charged also. I clearly am missing something here or I have a major problem. I looked back in my notes and it has been over 3 months since the last start. I have learned a lot but not enough. I even checked the kill switch again which is a toggle switch and it seems fine. I need to find someone that can take a look at where she sits in my garage if possible. Any and all thoughts appreciated.


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## PeteNM

I'm sure you've tried this but when it's just sitting there waiting to start, take the drain plug in the bottom of the carb loose and see if gas will run out into a bucket or something. (It might be a drain cock) If no gas runs out either the needle valve is to tight or the gas line isn't letting any gas into the carb. If not, check everything between the carb and the tank first making sure there is a good flow there. If a good flow you may need to check the needle valve again.....


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## Commoner05

Thanks PeteNM, appreciate your thoughts. I have not opened the drain plug at the bottom of the carb to check. I assume there should be gas there ready for a start? I have tried the needle valve on the carb bowl at 1 1/2 turns out as we as 3 1/2 turns out. After several tries to start, it will drip gas from the weep hole in bottom of the carb bowl. The gas flow seems pretty good coming from the tank. There is not a sediment bowl, just a line and filter. I did contact a local guy that works on tractors and he will take a look at soon. This is his busy time with haying. More to follow. Thanks for your thoughts.


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## PeteNM

You assume right. You should be able to drain off a little gas at anytime through the carb. I have kept a can on board to collect a little gas at any time. Being a gravity system I always had a fuel sediment bowl. They can be a source of problems but as far as a inline filter that must be some add-on. I'd try bypassing that till you get it running. You also may want to check it's installed in the proper direction too. 

You might want to check the governor too. Where it hooks to the carb needs to be right. If that butterfly valve isn't moving freely you may not get anything through the carb.


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## film495

If you put gas or starter fluid in the cylinder, and crank it over, it should ignite. Aside from the gas flow issue you're trying to work through, you're not getting combustion for some reason. I'd take a break from fiddling with the carb, and focus on your ignition a little. Check for good spark on all the plugs, firing order, check the points gap etc. You can put a test light to the coil(s) to make sure it flashes, signaling the points are opening and closing correctly. Make sure you have the right plugs, at the right gap. I'd just go over that whole ignition, to see why you're not cranking. Did someone stuff a rag in your exhaust, or is your air intake plugged etc. It really should turn over and fire with gas or starter fluid in the cylinder.


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## mrfred

have you taken a compression check. if you have gas,spark, and compression it should fire up as long as it is in time.


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## Rodsih300

You said your battery was a 12 volt. The gas 350 were 6 volt originally, so I assume someone put a kit in it to change voltage. Was that done recently? If so, I would check it all again. 

On my 300 the biggest starting problem was the coil. I got spark, but until I got a real spark tester I never knew how weak it was. These are cheap I recommend you get one. 

Also, you need to make sure that you have the proper resistor or wire or coil with the resistor in it on the tractor. The 6 and 12 are not the same. 

I would be on an ignition problem. Sometimes the points, assuming you still have them, get grounded through a bad condenser. This will cause the same problem you are describing.


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## Commoner05

Thanks for all the suggestions. The tractor was a 6 volt but was changed long before I owned it. As far as I now it was done correctly. The tractor ran pretty well early spring, but not lately. We did a complete tuneup on it in the last couple months. We will check the points and plugs again. I am getting spark, but not sure if it is strong or not? Have not done a compression test yet. I will check to be sure a rag is not in the exhaust also. It acts like there is a switch off, but I have checked the toggle switch and it appears to be working correctly. I hope to have a local guy that knows tractors take a look at this weekend. I was also surprised that the oil and starter fluid in the cylinder did nothing.


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## Commoner05

Another day of working on the tractor. The guy that works on tractors in my area did not make it this weekend as it is hay time in New England. I did have another friend with some knowledge lend a hand today. We went through the ignition side of this once again. Pulled each plug, check the gap, checked for spark at each plug and the spark seems fine, it was blueish/yellow, checked the wires, checked the distributor and made sure of the firing order and that all was connected correctly. We checked the compression by pulling a plug and holding our thumb over the hole, it pushed back with good force. The compression tool would not screw into the plug hole, too small. Checked the suction at the carb intake, it had very good suction against our hand. Also checked the exhaust to be sure it was not plugged, it seemed fine. We also sprayed starter fluid into each plug, no start. Sprayed starter fluid into the carb, no start. At this point the battery was dying so we decided to hitch the jumper cables up to the van and give it a hand. Believe it or not but we got our best results of the day during the jump. It actually popped a little Sprayed some more starter fluid into the carb, another pop. Still no start, but progress. The question of today is if the battery is strong enough to actually crank this engine over? It is an older battery and I almost replaced it a few months back. Remember that our tractor does not have an alternator or generator, so all spark comes from this older battery. I have tested with a multi-meter, but wonder about its cranking amps. I plan to bring to an Auto Parts Store to be tested. If the battery needs replacing, should I purchase a marine deep cycle battery? I wonder if that type would be a better fit for our tractor? Thanks again. More to follow


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## film495

Getting it to turn over is huge. You probably need to burn the oil off that you put in the cylinders, so it could be difficult to get past a pop here and there to burning off everything in the cylinders. 

I don't think you're better off the use a deep cycle battery, but possibly others would know better than I. A deep cycle is built different than a starter motor - for a long slow draw down, running electric motors and electronics, fish finders etc. Usually a marine set up will have a deep cycle and a starter motor. The starter is used because it performs that function better than the deep cycle.

Something is off or not performing well in your ignition system, if it is just the battery you're lucky. Costs a few bucks, but that's an easy fix.

I once worked on a tractor for a couple months here and there, and eventually, got it going by jumping it off my car. I still can't figure why the battery would not turn it over fast enough to fire. After I got it running, the existing battery would then start it just fine, and I still run that same battery two years later. Possibly the charge out of the tractor differs from the cheap battery charger I was using. Not sure, never figured it out really.

If you can get it to pop or fire at all, you're on the right track for sure. There's nothing worse than a motor that just doesn't start and isn't clear why.

From experience, I'd suggest going through extra effort to make 100% sure you're using fresh gas. I spend a couple days on an outboard motor one time, only to figure out the motor was fine, the gas I had for only a few weeks, just would not work.


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## Rodsih300

Sounds like you have done a lot of testing. If the battery swap/charge does not work, I would just replace the coil. They can be tested, but it is not very accurate and it is really cheap to buy a new one. I put a "Flame Thrower" on mine and she started right up. Good luck.


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## Commoner05

Great thoughts, I appreciate the encouragement, thanks to all responses. Another tractor guy I was talking with also said that as big a CCA Cold Cranking Amps battery I could afford would be better than a deep cycle. Better to start I assume. Yes the actual pops were wonderful for sure. I feel we are very close at this point. It has been stated that I need to time the tractor also. We tried yesterday, but the timing light was broke. We talked about replacing the coil to be sure we have a strong spark. The gas is an interesting thought for sure. I just added 5 gallons of "fresh" gas last week. However, this gas sat in my barn for a couple weeks, maybe more? Could it go bad that quickly? Maybe I should drain the gas from the tractor and buy new gas and put in? We are gong to get this at some point. My learning curve is just slower than I had hoped for


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## PeteNM

I cranked my old H by hand with a crank and didn't have any battery at all. You may have battery ignition instead of a magneto. I wouldn't think your gas is old at all, just needs to get to the engine...


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## Fredneck

this is a minor thing, and if anyone has already addressed it, forgive me - but reading your original post, i see u say that it will crank but not turn over.

i'd just like to mention that cranking and turning over are the same thing  if it will do one, it is doing both


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## film495

How did you set the points gap? Pretty sure you have to make sure it is in specific position, as open as it goes, to do this correctly. I believe, although I've never seen this personally, it can be just a touch off, and throw off your timing.

I've had gas sit for months and had it work fine. I have a small 2 stroke outboard, that I use about once a year. The mixed gas is from 3 seasons ago. I put some stable in it to store 3 years ago, and it worked just fine again this spring. If I don't think I'm going to use gas up in 30 days or less, I now try to put some Stable in it. I almost want to keep that 3 year old can of gas to test how long it will work.

I really can't tell you why that one time, the gas would not work. It was only a couple weeks old, and I spent 2 full days working on that motor as a result. I eventually, after just being at the end of my rope, started from scratch again and got some new gas, fired right up. Now if I have a motor that just won't start, I get fresh gas and put Stable in it from the get go, and also make sure I have a strong battery. Finding out it is one of these basic issues after mucking with a motor for a long time is a real kick in the pants.


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## real8deal

hey i have the exact fix for this tractor my farmall super m did the exact thing. when you put this carb back together the float will stick you only need to do this once thou. Take the drain bolt of the carb make sure the fuel is shut off. Take a flat head screwdriver and push the float up once. once free start er up.


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## Commoner05

Awesome information, thanks. Cranking and turn over....What I mean is by cranking, the engine is trying to start I guess that means turning over It will not start though. Sorry about the terms. Good point though, it is hard enough to figure this out without looking at the tractor. The points were set by a mechanic friend that I had come on his day off to tuneup. He worked for a while to be sure everything was in the correct location, so I assume it is correct. Stable is a good point in the gas from now on. Now that is an interesting thought about the screw driver and float. I assume that you mean the drain bolt in the bottom of the carb bowl? Turn the gas off and remove the bolt then use a screwdriver to push the float up. Interesting, could the float be stuck down not allowing fuel? Great point, have not tried that but will next time over there. I wondered how you would know the float was set and moving freely, will let you know. Thanks.


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## film495

I can't wait for you to get this machine running, so I can know what the trick was.


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## snoopdogie187

I just want to mention something:

One time when I had a 92 Nissan Pathfinder (VG30E engine), I filled it up with gas from a station that I have used before, and after that time, and right after I filled up, the engine ran terribly and wouldn't idle on its own. I figured it was the gas, given the time, and when there was half a tank of gas left, I filled it up again, and the problem was much better. 

To give you an idea of how good this engine is, the pathfinder is now parked, and I didn't get around to starting it for about 1 year. Well after charging the battery, it started right up. It did smoke, but it would idle. Magical engine, it has at least 300,000 miles on it, and still idles better than any other car I've ever seen. Too bad the chassis on these things rust out so badly. 

I doubt this is your problem, it has only happened to me once, of all the times I have filled up. Yes I'm on the young side, but driving to school ever day, used about a 1/4 tank of gas, and I went 5 days a week, so that is a lot of gas, and miles. Something probably happened with that batch of gas, maybe it was mixed wrong, who really knows.


I would try just using your car battery to start the tractor directly. Well unless of course you have a Nissan Micra, Mitsubishi Evo, Honda S2000, and some other cars which use this battery: https://www.tayna.co.uk/HB054-HCB054-Car-Battery-P7616.html


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## bbirder

Your problem is definitely in the fire. If it won't at least cough on starter fluid you have no spark or at least no spark at the correct time. Change the coil. It might fire the plugs on the outside but not under compression. I have even had new plugs not fire under compression, but one cylinder should not stop it from starting. Otherwise the points are not set correctly and it is not firing at the correct point in compression. I have had tractors start and run with gas 6-12 months old.


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## country Gent

Are you stubborn or just missed it a few times. CHANGE THE COIL. If you have a external resister, get a coil specific with NO RESISTER. If you do not have a resister (Small porcelain block) get a coil with a built in resister.


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## lcrepairs

Now I'm curious, read this whole thread. He said the spark it good. I would be concentrating on making sure plugs are clean and dry then spray starting fluid into carb where air intake pipe goes on it while cranking. If it don't start then I would for sure be looking into ignition problem and/or timing. To do a basic timing check you can put a rag in #1 spark plug hole and bump starter till it pops out then line up crank pulley on timing mark if it just passed it, then see if rotor is pointing at the #1 wire in distributor cap.


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## dvknutson

Well - lets see .. it was running, but flooding, then you did a tune-up and it won't restart !! As stated suspect any and everything, even new. Have you got the right rotor, plug firing sequence, are the leads correct and not damaged, ensure that spark boots and connectors are tight, are the plugs correct, is there a ground inside the distributor, or a crack. On to the gas .. I would remove everything right back to the tank and maybe including the tank. Those old steel tanks are known to RUST, reseal if necessary. Remove the lower connection, is there rust, where did the sediment bowl go .. (Its there for a reason) check all lines, rubber steel and replace the filter. Many automotive filters don't work well on gravity systems, they glue up easily, remove the needle and seat, is this a rubber tipped version ?? Replacement is recommended but be very careful at setting the level and ensure the float is not full of gas or bent. You should hear it move if you invert. Check the air intake system, bird nests, bugs or bees love the openings. Does the choke flapper actually move or is it broken, Does the throttle flap actually move or has it become disconnected .. **** the list is still long of potentials !!


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## bmax59

I think you have two problems with the no start issue the first is there are very small orifices in the stem going down from the center of the carb into the bowl. these have a tendency to plug up and then you will get no fuel up to the cylinders. you need to clean these out with carb cleaner and maybe some compressed air with the carb off the tractor, it may take a couple trys to get them open . The second issue sounds like its not turning over fast enough with your battery to get the fuel up to the cylinders. do not use a deep cycle battery for starting it is only used for smaller amperage's drain over a long period of time.


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## Commoner05

Thanks for ALL of the awesome replies, I appreciate each one. I agree that replacing the coil is a good idea Not stubborn, just not sure what to replace first. The battery may not be strong enough either, so that should be replaced also. As someone said, the list is endless. The tractor was running, then stopped. We tuned it up and it has not started then either. It was not running right before the tune up, that is why we did the tuneup. We have checked all parts of the tune up including making sure the wires were tight, making sure the plug was not cracked even though they are new, checked gap. We have checked spark, but the spark might not be as strong as it should be. I am trying to get someone local with more knowledge than myself to look over. A couple of different guys have helped with this process and we are scratching our heads at this point. We did clean the discharge jet in the bowl of the carb a couple of times making sure the little holes were clean as well as into the bowl. We cleaned the main jet on front of the carb bowl. Adjusted the float as best we could. The sediment bowl was removed long before I have owned it. I do plan to replace it, but want to get it running first. At this point, it seems best to make sure what we have is working before changing anything else. Trying to trouble shoot as best we can. Sounds like a new coil and battery might go a long way. Thanks again and will update when we do above suggestions.


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## film495

If you can safely try to pull start it behind an auto I would certainly give it a shot. I think it really gets the engine going faster than any starting system.


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## Commoner05

Went to my local NAPA and purchased a new coil today. Also had the battery tested and it seems fine. It had good strength and held pretty well when he hit the CCA button. Decided to try the battery after the new coil is installed. It looks pretty basic to install the coil? Looks like a bracket and 2 wires coming off. I plan to go one wire at a time and be aware of the positive and negative terminals. Let us hope this does the trick. Not sure of pulling this tractor behind our minivan to jump If it started it would be fine, otherwise, it would probably not go back into the garage. More soon. Thanks again.


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## film495

the coil should be pretty easy, just orient the same way (should be + and - marks) and put the wires to the new same as old. sometimes it is a benefit to mark wires and label with masking tape or other when they are disconnected. it is easy to forget which wire was disconnected from where. seems so obvious until after they are disconnected.


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## Texas_01

*Same issues...please keep us updated*

My International is having very similar issues. Please keep us up to date. My theory is that I don't have a strong enough ground connection. Going out today to re-wire.


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## Commoner05

Well, much to update The tractor is running very well at this point. I actually found a local guy that works on International Harvesters/Farmalls. Have know him indirectly for years, but thought he only worked on small engines. Our paths crossed this past Friday in our garage to work on our Tractor. I installed a new coil, but that did nothing to help it start. It took him less than 2 hours to get her started. The points were not adjusted correctly and were closed tightly. The timing was well off. It seems to me that many of you have posted this in past posts. As I have mentioned, this is all new to me but I have learned a lot this weekend. It started very hard with much cranking to the point of running the battery dead. We jumped with the minivan for added power. Once she started we drove it out of the garage for timing. As my friend was timing it by rotating the distributor cap I realized that oil was leaking very heavily from under. We backed it back into the garage to find out more issues. Basically the frame has cracked at some point, probably before we purchased it, and was rubbing on the oil pan. There was a hole in it that would need repair. Actually the frame and oil pan had to be welded and a grease fitting installed and then assembled again. After we found a new gasket, the oil pan could be installed. Then the timing started once again. It is running better than it has since we have owned it. We feel very lucky that a local guy was able to get her running and I have a new connection in the tractor restoration field. I have learned that a strong ground is needed and would check and redo for sure. Thanks for all of the comments over the last three months, I appreciate each and every one. More projects to come and most likely more questions. Thanks again!


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## film495

having it running must be a real relief, no?


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## Commoner05

Incredible relief, now I can put it to work. It was a very long project that I tried very hard to resolve with my very limited knowledge. I finally had to hire a guy that works on tractors. I would have never been able to find the problem and fix it. The oil leak was another major setback, but was fixed in a couple of days. It took 3 guys almost a total of 15-20 hours from start to finish. It cost more than I hoped, but it is running and done correctly. Now on to other projects. Thanks.


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## Texas_01

Nice! Glad you got your tractor back up and running. I got mine up, too...glad I checked the battery before going through all of the carburetor exercises. Now I've gotta find a forum on how to repair the hydraulics in the rear, the PTO, and the power steering... I ran over a bunch of tree branches with my brush hog and think I may have cut or pulled a line out.


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## Commoner05

Thanks Texas_01, glad that your tractor is running also. What model International do you have? Mine is a 350 Utility. I am sure that you will find help on this site for all of your issues. Maybe do a separate post for each issue to not confuse things Just a thought on my part as I am a rookie to the tractor ownership. I had a ground issue several months ago that I was finally able to resolve with the help of this site. I also have a power steering issue. It turns to left with power steering, to turn right is pretty difficult so I would be very interested in what you find out. I am currently working on the gauges with a different post. Good luck with the restore.


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## Lighthouse97

Commoner05 said:


> Well not much good news to report after a few more hours of labor. Today I removed the carb bowl again to recheck everything. I removed the discharge nozzle and totally sprayed with carb cleaner and installed back. I removed idle metering jet and cleaned the hole, it was clean and spray came out the other end. I cleaned the air bleed hole out. I double checked the Main jet on the front of the carb bowl, again spraying and cleaning. I watched it lightly bottom out, then backed it out 1 1/2 turns. I documented the position of the screw slot when bottomed out for the future when I can't see in. I removed the Idle screw and sprayed carb cleaner in and reinstalled and backed out 3/4 of a turn. I then worked on the float. I removed the axle, float, and valve needle carefully. I was able to do some research in my Service Manual and Shop Manual and it said to set the float at 1 5/16" when the inlet needle is closed. After much trail and error, I adjusted the float, I think If I understand this measurement correctly, it is measured from the bottom of the carb, still on tractor, to the bottom of the float when it rises up? It was pretty close and is now 1 5/16". I had it at 1 7/8", but after seeing the setting in my manual, I decided to go with the 1 5/16". The float and needle seemed to go up and down smoothly so I installed the bowl back on carefully. Put everything else back together and gave it a go. It did the same exact thing....crank and crank but would not start. I pulled plug # 1 and it was dry? I decided to add a little starter fluid to # 1 while I had it out as I did not have any extra gas. Still no start. I then pulled each plug and pumped 4 pumps of engine oil into each cylinder. No start. I checked all plug connections, all connections on the distributor, checked the firing order to be sure we had it correct, which we do. I cranked and cranked hoping it would pop, nothing! The carb bowl flooded again of course. I had the throttle at different settings, and no choke, some choke, more choke. No start. I had seen in one of the manuals that I was reading last night that the main jet on front of the carb bowl could be as many as 5 full turns out so I backed it out a total of 3 1/2 turns, nothing. The starter was actually hot to the touch so I decided to stop. The battery was fully charged also. I clearly am missing something here or I have a major problem. I looked back in my notes and it has been over 3 months since the last start. I have learned a lot but not enough. I even checked the kill switch again which is a toggle switch and it seems fine. I need to find someone that can take a look at where she sits in my garage if possible. Any and all thoughts appreciated.


I have the exact same tractor and have the same exact issues. I cant find any shutoff or toggle switch in the manual. Can you give me the location of said toggle switch please.


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## pogobill

Welcome to the forum Lighthouse97. This is a very old thread. You may want to start a new thread and tell us about your issue. The toggle / kill switch may be something that was installed by the owner. I have a toggle switch on my 8N that I installed as the ignition switch was in need of replacement and the toggle was all I had at the time. It's been in use for 10 years now!


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## Lighthouse97

pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum Lighthouse97. This is a very old thread. You may want to start a new thread and tell us about your issue. The toggle / kill switch may be something that was installed by the owner. I have a toggle switch on my 8N that I installed as the ignition switch was in need of replacement and the toggle was all I had at the time. It's been in use for 10 years now!


Thank You!


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