# Cub Cadet dies when engaging the blades



## jazaddict

I Inherited a 2005 cub cadet LT1550. Been using it for 4 months. It wasn't running when I got it (came with the home we bought), but I changed the plugs, put in fresh gas, new starter, and Voila.

The other day it died about an hour into a cut. I pulled the lid off, sprayed the carburetor, put in a new air filter.

It now starts and runs until I engage the PTO. I thought I'd "fixed it"....it drove around just fine. As soon as I engage the PTO it gradually sputters and dies. It REALLY bogs on engage, wont go 10 ft. 

When I had the lid off I noticed that there was some linkage not attached to the throttle that was pretty rusty. I sprayed some carb cleaner, then some WD40 and worked it back & forth. I don't know if that's the culprit here or not.

It seems like the motor used to "throttle up" for the additional load of the PTO, but now it's not. 

The cutting deck is surely due for some TLC, so I thought I'd pull it & clean it, sharpen the blades, make sure any areas that use grease are greased.

But what can I check regarding the load/governor problem on PTO engage?


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## stephenscity

Is it possible ya hit something? If the shaft is bent it can cause this.


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## wjjones

Check your fuel cap to make sure the vent is not stopped up. If not the carb might need a good cleaning if it sat for awhile before you started using it.


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## dyt4000

Turn the blades by hand and make sure they are able to move freely...take the belt off to check this.


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## Mickey

dyt4000 said:


> Turn the blades by hand and make sure they are able to move freely...take the belt off to check this.


From the description of the problem my first thought is you need to check out the complete drive train for the deck. Pulleys, blade spindles, etc and make sure nothing is binding.

Initially I was thinking safety switch but then read engine was dying a slow death, so ruled out the safety switch.

Wonder if the _rusty linkage_ is linkage to the gov? Also would check to see if possible fuel mixture was too lean.

Would be interested in knowing why so many part/component swaps especially the starter.

Oh, one other possibility I'd check on. Is there a solenoid connected to the carb? Lot of todays engines have these to shut the fuel off when ign switch is turned off. It helps keeps the engined from dieseling which is hard on engines. If you have one of these and it partially sticking, engine might not be getting all the fuel it needs when under load.


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## jazaddict

Thanks fellas. 
@stephencity: Yes, I hit something ....couple of things actually. One time a rag bound one of the blades. Another time a 1 inch stick got between a blade and the deck frame & stopped the blades. 
As I mentioned, I just got the tractor and the home at the same time; these happened during unfamiliarity with both. In any case, after untangling each situation, the tractor continued to run for a couple of months in original condition. This dying thing is new.

@dyt4000: I did the carb cleaning thing. I didn't check the cap (yet), but why would I be able to run around the yard (been towing a trailer full of landscaping stones a good 100 yds without any bogging)
~and~
Yes, the blades turn freely. No, I didn't pop the belt off; I just turned them a few inches w/ teh belt engaged.
I'm thinkin I'll be dropping the deck next, so that'll be my opportunity to check w/out the belt.

@Mickey: Yep, I'm in agreement that a good deck-check is in order.
The "rusty linkage" MUST go to the governor that "revs up" when the PTO is engaged; I don't "know" this, but what else could it be since its NOT to/from the throttle?

I don't know how to check if the mix is too lean.
I don't know what a "Solenoid to the carb" looks like. 

This poor machine has been stored outside in the elements (from the looks of things). So the starter was a rusted, non-functioning mess. That's really the only component that was changed out (I mean, plugs and air filter are pretty common tune-up things, right? Not really "components" per se)

Thanks Gents....got my work cut out; I'll report back. Won't be before next weekend......might have to give up & cut the last 2 acres w/ a push-mover :-O


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## jazaddict

Thx Gents, I just typed detailed responses and hit "post" but I dont see that post. Aggravating >:-(

Suffice it to say I'll follow advice & report back.

How do I determine if a mix is too lean?
What does a "solenoid on teh carb" look like? (by "today's engines" do you mean even vintage 2005?)


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## Fredneck

i had to buy a new B&S Vortec 17hp engine for my craftsman (murray) 3 or 4 years ago, it's definitely got an electric shutoff on the carb. look for the wires. if there are no wires, u can rule that one out.


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## Thomas

I also check all pullies plus make sure belt/belts running true on pullies,


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## jazaddict

There's a wire that goes to a cylinder about the size of a stack of 10 pennies on the bottom of the carb..., Hmmm...  ifbit walks like a solenoid and quacks like a solenoid.....


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## Mickey

Now that you know your engines has a fuel solenoid, you might want to pull it off the carb (remove the carb first) and on the bench apply power to it a few times. The plunger should snap in/out as power is applied and then removed. While your at it measure the voltage on the wire that goes to the solenoid and see what kind of reading you're getting. Should be in the range of 12V. Had to do this myself earlier this yr and found the voltage reading low. Traced the problem to a connector that was oxidized. Cleaned the connection and all was back to new again.

You still need to check for binding of the deck drive train.

As for running lean, could be as simple as an adjmt or something is partially blocking a passage in the carb.


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## jazaddict

OK....THIS little bad-boywould not move when clipped to positive on the end of the cord and grounded on the body UNTIL I carb-cleaned it. THen SNAP! down it went. 

I also pulled and cleaned the deck. All pulleys were acceptable, I slathered some grease on the worst of em, bu there was certainly no binding.....

I'll report back


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## Mickey

Think you may have just found the source of your problems or at least one problem. Keep us informed.

On my Cub/Kohler when there is no power applied to the solenoid the fuel is shut off to the carb passages. Since you mentioned the plunger was stuck in the extended position I suspect fuel was mostly being blocked. Now with plunger operating correctly I think you'll find the engine running a lot better now.


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## jazaddict

It certainly runs better. I can actually cut grass, but the motor bogs down more than I recall (in my short 5 months of ownership). Arguably long grass....I slow significantly and raise the deck.

However, shouldn't there be a n increase in throttle based on load? When is the Solenoid engaged? Is the solenoid a one shot deal when I pull the PTO?

Thanks for the tips uze guyz.


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## Mickey

As long as the ign switch is in the run position the solenoid should be energized.

You may need to look at the governor to see if it is working correctly. Any time there is a load applied to the engine the gov should increase the throttle some. Engine speed should remain fairly constant regardless of load if the gov is working correctly.


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## jazaddict

See, THATS what's in need of adjustment....or cleaning....or replacement. Thx, I'll look into it.

BTW, what's up with needing to "buy" the service manual? I've googled the snot outta this and can't find a single place to download the Service Manual for free......is this common?


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## Fredneck

jazaddict said:


> BTW, what's up with needing to "buy" the service manual? I've googled the snot outta this and can't find a single place to download the Service Manual for free......is this common?


sadly, yes


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