# Cub Cadet LT1042 won't start



## Mike Bongiovi (5 mo ago)

My Cub Cadet is showing strange symptoms. I will turn the key to the first and second positions and the headlights will come on. When I turn it to Start position, first there's a click and then nothing. The headlights go out and it just goes dead. The fuse has not been blown .I have replaced the solenoid, the PTO switch, and the ignition switch. I have checked the brake switch and the seat switch. Both are fine. The battery is putting out 12.76 volts. If I turn the key completely off and try this sequence again, nothing happens - no lights, no click, nothing. I'm not sure what does it, but if I disconnect the connectors from the back of the ignition switch and plug them back in, sometimes it will "reset" things so I can go through the same steps as before - headlights, headlights, click, dead. I'm waiting on a relay I just ordered. It's about the only thing I haven't replaced, but at this point, I wouldn't be surprised if that doesn't help at all either. Any thoughts?


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Mike Bongiovi said:


> My Cub Cadet is showing strange symptoms. I will turn the key to the first and second positions and the headlights will come on. When I turn it to Start position, first there's a click and then nothing. The headlights go out and it just goes dead. The fuse has not been blown .I have replaced the solenoid, the PTO switch, and the ignition switch. I have checked the brake switch and the seat switch. Both are fine. The battery is putting out 12.76 volts. If I turn the key completely off and try this sequence again, nothing happens - no lights, no click, nothing. I'm not sure what does it, but if I disconnect the connectors from the back of the ignition switch and plug them back in, sometimes it will "reset" things so I can go through the same steps as before - headlights, headlights, click, dead. I'm waiting on a relay I just ordered. It's about the only thing I haven't replaced, but at this point, I wouldn't be surprised if that doesn't help at all either. Any thoughts?


Yep!!, I would be surprised if the new relay would help start your machine, try the simple things first before outlaying money, pull both battery cables from the battery and clean the insides of the cable connectors very well till they shine, same with the battery posts, then follow the negative lead to where this bolts to the chassis or engine and clean the end and where this bolts on, I expect you would have cleaned the battery cable terminal where this bolted to the solenoid post?, now see if the engine will turn over, if the engine doesn't turn over then you need to test the battery cables, these with age will corrode internaly and wont allow full battery current to be supplied to the solenoid, if you have a pair of jumper leads, connect the positive to the battery post and the other end to the solenoid battery supply post and try and start, if the engine turns over then your battery cable is suspect, if the engine doesn't turn over then connect the negative jumper lead from battery negative post to a good ground on the engine and try, leave the positive jumper connected when doing this final test, let us know the outcome.


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## 2billt (Aug 7, 2011)

FredM,
These are great suggestions and If I may add another one:
By-pass the battery and cables with a jumper set to the solenoid and different ground location from a donor battery, without disconnecting any of your cables or battery.


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## Mike Bongiovi (5 mo ago)

This is embarrassing. I have always covered my positive battery posts and cable connectors with white lithium grease to prevent corrosion, so I never suspected that would be the problem. But it was. I pulled off the positive cable, cleaned it off, brushed it off with a wire brush, reconnected it to the battery, and the mower started right up. Just dumb on my part not to start with the basics. Thanks, FredM for reminding me that the simplest solution is often the right one.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Mike Bongiovi said:


> This is embarrassing. I have always covered my positive battery posts and cable connectors with white lithium grease to prevent corrosion, so I never suspected that would be the problem. But it was. I pulled off the positive cable, cleaned it off, brushed it off with a wire brush, reconnected it to the battery, and the mower started right up. Just dumb on my part not to start with the basics. Thanks, FredM for reminding me that the simplest solution is often the right one.


Mike!! you don't have to be embarrassed, these things happen to the best of us, budget for a remote starter switch and a reasonable multimeter, you were able to quote battery voltage, so you may own one, which is a bonus,-- with the remote starter switch which is connected at the solenoid hot wire tab and the positive cable lug on the solenoid, this will show if the problem is a battery/cable problem or a safety switch problem, -- if the engine doesn't turn over when you use the remote starter, battery problem, and if the engine starts with the remote, then safety switch problem.


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