# Ford 4000 runs hot



## LSmith

I have a Ford 4000 '69, that runs hot. The radiator and hoses were changed and it still runs hot according to the guage. Is there a thermostat near the water pump? Could the guage be wrong? The radiator never boils over making me believe the guage is wrong, but I don't want to take the chance of damaging the engine. What do you think?


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## sixbales

OK, so you've installed a new radiator and hoses and it still overheats?? 

What are you doing when it overheats?? If you are lugging down the engine, it will run hot. 

Next thing to check is the thermostat. Could be stuck shut. 

After the thermostat, check the temperature sending unit versus a thermometer.


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## LSmith

Do you know where the thermostat is located on a Ford 4000? Do you know what temperature the thermostat should be and what is a normal operating temperature for the tractor? I used a temperature gun and the top of the radiator was 205 deg. and the bottom was 170 deg. when the guage on the tractor was in the red.


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## sixbales

Is this a gasser or a diesel?? 

I previously recommended a 13 psi radiator cap, but I've learned that all it does is increase the boiling point of the coolant, so I changed my mind. I found that your 4000 takes a 7 psi cap. 

Your top radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing mounted on the engine. You have to pull the hood to get to it. There are three different thermostats for a Ford 4000 - 168 deg F, 188 deg F, and 172 deg F. Since you are having trouble with over heating, I would choose the 168 deg F thermostat. Discuss this with your dealer.

Other considerations:

Is the radiator fan shroud in place?
Is the exhaust heat shield in place?
Is the engine timed properly (4 degrees BTDC at 400 RPM or less)?
Does the centrifugal spark advance function properly?

Any of these issues can cause overheating and/or high exhaust temperature.

The 205 degree temperature you measured at the top of the radiator seems a bit too high (but I've never measured mine because I've not encountered this problem).


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## Farmer_John

this is TOO funny to not comment on but I've got a '68 ford 4000 3-cyl. diesel that does the complete opposite! mine when it boils over the temp. gauge is still in the green range! And No there is NO problem with my engine I just work her hard and my ranch is at a high altitude so most of my stuff has to have special (expensive) high pressure radiator caps, the ford doesn't.


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## sixbales

Here is a quick list of things to check:

Low Coolant Level,
System overfilled, 
Radiator Cooling Fins bent and/or clogged with junk, 
Fan belt slipping, 
Collapsed radiator hose, 
Thermostat stuck, 
Tractor overloaded, 
Improperly timed ignition, 
Fuel mixture too lean, 
Weak spark, 
Diluted lubricating oil, 
Pulling heavy load at reduced engine RPM, 
Water pump impeller vanes broken, 
radiator full of sludge and crud.


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## LSmith

Thanks, I think it must be the thermostat. It is a diesel, clean radiator and new hoses. I am going to try removing the thermostat to see if that cures the problem.

Another question for you - how do you check the oil level in the transmission and rear end. I see the caps for adding the fluid, but I am not sure which plug is used to check the oil level. What type of oil do I use for the transmission and rear end. It is a standard 8 speed 3 cylinder diesel.


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## sixbales

Oil level checks:

Transmission: As you are seated on your tractor, there is a small SQUARE HEADED pipe plug by your right toe in the side of the transmission. Remove this plug and add fluid to the transmission until it comes out of this port. Then put the plug back in place. The filler cap is on the top of the transmission somewhere near the shift levers.

Rear End/Differential: As you are seated on your tractor, there is a small SQUARE-HEADED pipe plug behind your right heel. You may have to squat down to see it. Mine is not easy to see. Same size plug as for the transmission. Pull this plug and add fluid until it comes out of this opening. Then put the plug back in place. The filler cap for the rear end in on top of the rear differential center housing, just behind the seat. 

NOTE: The rear end/differential housing is where your hydraulic pump draws fluid to run the 3-point lift and any other hydraulic functions you may have. So, if your lift isn't working well, first thing to check is the fluid level in the rear end. 

The proper fluid for both reservoirs is Ford/NH 134D (or 134) fluid. You can get an equivalent Universal Tractor Hydraulic Fluid (UTF) at Tractor Supply Stores, Auto Parts Stores, Wal-Mart , and other places. Get it in 5 gallon buckets, as these reservoirs have large capacity. 

HTH. Post back if anything I've written confuses you. 

Let us know what you conclude was your over-heating problem.


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## LSmith

Thanks for the information.
I will let you know if the thermostat was the problem.


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## flyingace

sixbales said:


> Is this a gasser or a diesel??
> 
> I previously recommended a 13 psi radiator cap, but I've learned that all it does is increase the boiling point of the coolant, so I changed my mind. I found that your 4000 takes a 7 psi cap.
> 
> Your top radiator hose connects to the thermostat housing mounted on the engine. You have to pull the hood to get to it. There are three different thermostats for a Ford 4000 - 168 deg F, 188 deg F, and 172 deg F. Since you are having trouble with over heating, I would choose the 168 deg F thermostat. Discuss this with your dealer.
> 
> Other considerations:
> 
> Is the radiator fan shroud in place?
> Is the exhaust heat shield in place?
> Is the engine timed properly (4 degrees BTDC at 400 RPM or less)?
> Does the centrifugal spark advance function properly?
> 
> Any of these issues can cause overheating and/or high exhaust temperature.
> 
> The 205 degree temperature you measured at the top of the radiator seems a bit too high (but I've never measured mine because I've not encountered this problem).


The recommended thermostat is 188 degrees. A lower opening thermostat will not stop an overheating engine from overheating. Once it's fully open, it can't prevent overheating, rather it fully opens at 180 or 210.

205 is NOT too hot. The service manual states the thermostat starts to open at 188 and is fully open at 212. 205 strikes me as right in the wheelhouse.


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