# How do you remove Hydraulic reservoir



## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

I have removed all Cap bolts on my Gas IH 424 Hydraulic Reservoir. I have tried lifting it off with a hoist but reservoir will not loosen. Reservoir is located under seat and on top of transmission. 
Does the reservoir fit down into tyranny housing (say 1/4 inch) or does it sit on top of tyranny housing?
Any ideas on how to remove reservoir so I can get into transmission unit.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

Hi oldman!!! Welcome to TF.com!!:friends: 

I haven't been into a 424, but I believe they have the same transmision as a 444. The hyd unit sits on top of the transmision housing with no flange down into the case.There are 2 or 3 bolts across the front of the housing under the valve body that are hard to see, you usually have to dig a whole bunch of dirt off them to find them. The unit often bonds pretty well to the gasket, and sits on 2 dowels also which tend to stick. I generally unfasten the vertical lift arms and give a few good hard tugs up on the arms of the unit to break it loose.


Hope this helps!!

Good luck, let us know how you make out.


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Reply to TF.com*

Thanks.
I will look again closely, but I have removed all I have seen. I have yanked with a hoist, but it doesn't giive. It's as if there are bollts not removed or the unit is severely stuck on the transmission housing. Do you have any idea how much this reservoir weights? The reason I need too remove this unit is that I have a leaking rear axle seal. According to the book you have to remove a keeper key inside the transmission housing.
Also I have a leak around the differential clutch housing thats bolts on to transmission housing. I have removed brake assembly with clutch pedal. This leaves a splined shaft coming out of another housing bolted onto the tyranny. Can I remove this and replace the seals with no problem, or is this housing a support for the splined shaft?
Thanks for your help.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

The hydraulic units usually stick down pretty hard, I expect they bind on the dowel pins. As I mentioned, I give them quite a snap up on the lift arms to break them loose. You could also try prying between the valve body and the shifter cover. But be sure you do have all the bolts out. Look very closely along the front under the valve body.

The seal you are talking about on the side of the differential case, I believe, is the bull pinion shaft housing ( the shaft the brakes run off of). To replace this seal you have to remove the rear axle on that side, the PTO shaft, and the bull gear for that side. You will then have to remove a circlip from the end of the differential lock shaft, it is under an 1 1/2" long retainer at the outer end of the shaft. The retainer is spring loaded, I use vise grips to push it in, and a screw driver to pry out the circlip. You need about 3 hands to do this and have room for about 1! Unbolt the bull pinion shaft housing, and the housing and shaft should come out as an assembly. The inner bearing of the shaft is pressed into the case, but will come out with a light tap. You should then be able to get to the seal that needs to be replaced.
Good luck, and let us know how you are making out.:thumbsup:


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Reply to parts man*

I think the seal you are referring to is aroung the splined shaft itself. It appears that most of the fluid is coming from around the shaft housing that is bolted (with embedded bolts) onto the outside of the Tyranny. Can I remove these bolts and slide the housing off of the splined shaft and replace a gasket behind this housing?
Thanks.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

Sorry, yes I thought you meant the seal around the spined shaft. 

The bearing toward the differential on the slined shaft is lightly pressed into that casting. It should come out alright with out removing the splined shaft, but it may be a problem to get the bearing seated again properly. Also, to remove the casting you still have to take out the bull gear for that side as there is a lip of the casting to the inside of the bull gear. To remove the bull gear you must remove the PTO shaft. Once you've gone this far, it's not much extra to take the splined shaft out too, and make it easier to be sure the bearing is seated properly.


Have you been able to remove the hydralic unit yet:question:


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Reply to Parts man*

I haven't gotten the Hydraulic unit off yet. I talked to a mechanic today. He says remove the control unit mounted on front of the reservoir and verify there are no bolts underneath. If not then tap lightly with a screw driver between reservoir and transmission housing. He says they can be stuck pretty hard together. 
In regards to the spline brake shaft. on the housing that's bolted to the transmission unit (where the splined shaft comes out) is what I'm trying to get off because it seems the fluid is coming from the outside of the housing and not around the splined shaft.
I was trying to replace a gasket for the housing from the outside just in case I couldn't get the reservoir off.
Thanks any help is appreciated.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

The brake shaft housing can't come out until the bull gear is removed. That housing has a lip that runs to the inside of the bull gear. Trying to pry it out with out removing the bull gear breaks the brake shaft housing. We've sold quite a few because of that! The first step is to remove the hydraulic unit. There are 3 bolts across the front, 1 at each side, in about an 1"-1 1/2" from the edge, 1 near the middle front. All are accessable with out removing the control valve from the tank. The middle 1 is under the front edge of the control valve, but still on the outside flange of the tank.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Thanks Partsman for your quick and insightful replies.

Andy


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Reply to Parts Man*

Thanks for the help and quick response. It good to get info from people who know. I'll try to get the reservoir off this weekend. Since it going to be cold down here (high 35, that's cold for us), I'm not sure how much I'll get done. Let you know how it turns out though.
Thanks.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

oldman, good luck!! Right now 35 would be very welcomed for us!! Most of January was at least -20 C!! It has moderated for Feb so far though, been about -5 to - 10 through the day and around -15 to -20 at night, basically normal for us!

As for insightful replies, you got lucky :lmao: you happened to pick a model I'm quite familiar with! We use a 444 and a 384, and have parted out some over 50 of those series tractors! They are very popular around here!!


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

35 cold?????? We hit 32 yesterday, and are all walking around in shorts, and tee's. Been the coldest jan I remember. Not as bad as Partsman has it but we have been happy when it hits 20. Oh and the one day it hits over 30???? Snow, and ice..  Is it spring yet?????


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Its spring here sun is shining:crazysun: and its 52deg a Beautiful day. I would be working in the yard but its to wet got about five inches of rain the last two days.:tellyou: 
Jody


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*If*



> _Originally posted by jodyand _
> *Its spring here sun is shining:crazysun: and its 52deg a Beautiful day. I would be working in the yard but its to wet got about five inches of rain the last two days.:tellyou:
> Jody *


 52 and sunny! How can you stand it? I would have to go swimming and get a tan.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

when it hits -5 C here ( around 20 F) I dig out my shorts and go for a swim!!! 

Not quite,,, but I do consider that all kinds warm enough to work outside our UNHEATED shop to take tractors apart.


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

Well I finally got the hydraulic reservoir off of my IH-424. It was stuck really bad. Only one capscrew across front and that was next to hydraulic lines. Now it's time to do some useful. 
Thanks for the help.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

That's good news!!! Glad it worked out for you!! Sometimes they really get glued down!! Were you able to repair the gaskets around the bull pinion carriers while you were at it?


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*How do you remove Hydraulic Reservoir*

Didn't get to anything else. It looks like every seal around there is leaking. That will be a weekend job.
Thanks.


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*How do remove hydraulic reservoir*

Well finally got the lock ring off that holds axles in. Made a tool for pushing axle out. Hadn't had a chance to work with it much.
Anyone know how these rear axles are normally removed on a IH-424?
Thanks,
Oldman


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

Oldman, is that lock ring the one on the end of the axle housing with the 4 bolts in it?

There should also be a bolt in the centre of the axle on the inside end, remove it too. Then I use a 4LB hammer, and tap on the axle flange that the wheel bolts to, and tap it out. This ussually briings the outer bearing too, not always. Not a big deal either way. THere is also a spacer on the axle to the wheel end of the inner bearing. It will fall off inside the axle housing, make sure this is put back on when re-installing the axle.


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Removing hydraulic reservoir*

This lock ring is on the inside where gears are located. There wasn't a bolt on the inside of the axle. I added one to use as a spreader bolt (manual calls it a spreader bolt) to push axle out.
It seems there was a quicker way to get axle out and as you pointed out the 4 lb hammer works good for this.
I'll probably try this especially on the other axle where there is not enough room to get bolt in without removing the PTO shaft. 
Thanks for all your help.


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Removing Hydraulic Reservoir*

Well got the axle and axle housing off. The outer bearing is in good shape. I must remove it to replace the outer seal and gasket. Can I remove it without any press or pullers without destroying it? I can take to a shop but rather do it myself if possible without damaging the bearing.
Any advice anyone.
Thanks.


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Removing axle bearing.*

Well got the axle and axle housing off. The outer bearing is in good shape. I must remove it to replace the outer seal and gasket. Can I remove it without any press or pullers without destroying it? I can take to a shop but rather do it myself if possible without damaging the bearing.
Any advice anyone.
Thanks.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

In my experience the outer bearing is on pretty tight, about the only safe way to remove it is with a press, otherwise you run the risk of damaging the outer seal retainer. Sorry!


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Axle bearing stays in housing. IH 424.*

Got Left rear axle/brake side completed and started on right rear axle. The right rear axle came out of housing easily and left the outer bearing in the axle housing. The outer bearing on left axle stayed on axle and had to be pressed off. 
Although the bearing on the right axle stayed in housing it appears to spin freely. The question is either the inside of the bearing is worn or the ridge on the axle where bearing normally goes is worn. Also don't know if the outer wall/race of the bearing is froze in housing or will come out easily.
Is there a specification on the shaft that someone could mic and see if the axle is worn or not before replacing the bearing.
Has anyone seen this before? What did you do?


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

Oldman, I've had the occasional bearing stay in the axle housing, but I wouldn't say the axle had come out easy. Did your axle slip right out, or did you have to convince it with the big hammer? 

One thing that could cause the bearing to stay in the housing would be rust or dirt stuck to the housing, if the axle didn't come out too easy, I wouldn't worry about that. If you want to replace the bearing, you can drive the old one out from the inside (if you have room). I haven't tried with the axle housing on the tractor because I always pull them off. They take much less space to store that way. 

Another thought occurs to me, if you have an internal 2 or 3 jaw puller, you could put a rod in through the housing, against the other axle, and hook the legs of the puller into the bearing with the rod to press against. 

HTH


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## oldman (Jan 30, 2004)

*Bearing stays in housing*

The axle housing is off of the tractor.This axle came out real easy without the use of a hammer. Bearing spends real easy. I'm afraid the built up ridge (where bearing is pressed on axle) has worn enough that a new bearing will not stay on. If this is the case I'll either have to have axle built up or live with it. I would love to measure diameter of shaft before I buy a bearing that does the same thing. The manual that I have does not give the diameter of axle.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

I'm not sure what the diameter should be, and the axles I've got seem to be different (from British 444s and similar), and are held in with a bolt and washer on the inside end, so I couldn't be sure that the bearing surface would be the same as what you've got.

Since your axle came out really easy, it couold be the axle or bearing either one that is worn. You might be able to find out at a bearing supply house what the proper inside diameter of the bearing is supposed to be and compare that to the bearing you've got.


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