# MTD Lawn Flite?



## mckishen1

I was just given an MTD Lawn Flite, and it looks to be in pretty decent shape but has been sitting for about 20 or so years.
My question is, before I decide to spend any money on this, should I be able to move the Hydrostat lever or the HI/Lo knob without the engine running? 
Neither of them will budge, I was told that it ran fine when it was last parked, in fact, I don't think it was even that old then. I did lift the top plate up to look at the linkage, and none of the obvious points look seized since they do move slightly, but it feels like I'd be forcing something to get the lever to move. I did spray some penetrating oil on the linkage, but none of the external points are frozen. The speed lever did move downward, but won't move up again, so the linkage is not frozen there. That's what’s making me think I might need to get this running first? The throttle and choke are fine, and there's no sign of corrosion anywhere. This was stored in a heated garage for all of these years. The engine oil is even still clean looking, and the tires still have all of the little nibs on them. The engine oil leak didn't show until we pulled it up the ramp into my trailer, oil spilled out after we tilted it, I found the rubber part of the crank seal sitting on top of the pulley. It was totally dry before we moved it, and there's no oil slung around anywhere, so it didn't leak oil that last time it ran. The dipstick seal is also dried out, cracked and shrunk, oil may also have come out of there when we tilted it going up the ramp.

The model number is 145-842-000, I think it’s about a 1985 or so.
I have better machines, but if all this needs is a few dollars of work and a new battery to get it up and running, it would make a good spare, but if there may be something wrong with the transaxle, I'll salvage the motor for something else and cut this loose. It actually doesn't look like a bad machine, it's all steel, with a Briggs 18HP twin, and doesn't look like it's been used much at all, the paint isn't even worn off the foot steps. It has one badly dry rotted tire, a leaking lower crankshaft seal, and a dead battery, all are quite minor and easy fixes, but if the transaxle is bad, it's not worth it to me to fix this, and I could always use the engine elsewhere. 

I like the idea of making this my spare, since it would be only a grass cutting machine, if my JD goes down, I'd have a quick spare to use. It’s also a rear discharge deck, so that may be a plus too. This also has no bagging system, so I may decide to use it to cut the back lot and save myself some work and some wear and tear on my JD. 

If there's nothing wrong with the transaxle, the sum of its needs would only be a new front tire, an oil seal for the engine and some fresh oil, a new battery, and maybe some belts, but they even seem ok. 

Anyone have any input on this model? I have no manuals, and have never had one of these, so could this be normal? Or does it sound like maybe time has done a number on the transaxle?


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## Live Oak

Welcome to Tractor Forum mckishen1 ! I don't have any experience with this particular machine but I think you mentioned the best way to get started. I would make sure the fluid levels are good, buy or transplant a battery in it and start it up and see what she does. Do you have the owner's manual? I would review that first just to make sure you have a good operating knowledge and feel for the machine before you start it up. Once you get it started, you can make note of any problems and then decide if it is worth your time and money. Heck, if it runs that good, you can use it as a trainer for the wife and kids!   Then you can put them to work on it. :driving: Just expect some weird bugs to be run across since it has been setting for so long. Sounds like a nice machine to fix up. Good luck and let us know how things go and post some pictures!


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## Archdean

A hearty welcome from me too!

This may help you,

1. Replace the carb rubber diaphragm and fuel line.
2. Remove the plugs and spray some (Marvel Mystery oil is good) in the top end as it will be rusty from sitting! 
3. Turn the engine over by hand a few times! (it will save a lot of wear & tear) when you first try to start it!

Your transaxle should be fine but will need to be running to allow your Hi-Lo to move!

You will need to replace all rubber components sooner rather than later!


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## james66

*MTD*

Welcome to Tractor Forum mckishen1. I am also new to the forum but the MTD you have is a odd machine, i mean it's a good machine the Briggs 18HP twin has it problems. with the carb and the coil on that motor and keep this mower inside the Hydrostat lever should work with engine running. i would fix's it for a spare it's always good to have another machine to cut the grass. well enjoy the forum i see there are alot of good people here James


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## mckishen1

Thats all I needed to here, so long as it's normal for the lever not to move when it's not running, the rest is no problem.
The engine spins freely, and the plugs still look new, I gave each cylinder a shot of WD40 before I turned it over by hand. I won't start it until I replace the lower seal. 
You mention rust in the cylinder, isn't the 18hp an aluminum bore engine? 
Is there anything I should know about these twin cylinder Briggs? I have had the newer V twins, but never one of these older ones. Most of my tractors have all had Kohler engines with the exception of a few Briggs single cylinders.
What Hydro fluid does MTD use? Should I consider a fluid change after all of these years of sitting?

The one thing I like about this machine is the rear discharge, it'll allow close cutting on either side. It's also got a 50" or bigger deck too. The guy that had this had a huge yard, but this wasn't his only machine. A buddy of mine got a pair of smaller non hydro MTD tractors from the same place, the one is already running and the other just needs a battery and a muffler. The other two are both identical, and about half the size of this one, and set up with rear baggers. 
They're both a bit newer, and a lot less sturdy looking. He was the one that found the these, mine was the freebie that came with the other two, I'll get his going for him, and hopefully mine will turn out to be the better of the bunch. The only thing I did notice was that these have no front wheelbearings, just plactic bushings, It would be nice to convert this to bearing type spindles, I think I'd get a lot more use out of it in the long run. Does anyone know of a bearing type rim that will interchange on these? the tires are 16x6.50x8" and it looks like the acle is 3/4". 

Overall though, this '85 looks decent, it's all steel, and has pretty decent sized wheels. The steering on the smaller two is a bit flimsy, its all just stamped sheetmetal parts. The larger hydro tractor has some stamped parts, but at least they look to be of decent gauge metal. It should do fine if used as just a mower.

The only paperwork I got for this one was an accessory flyer, with a pic of one that looks like mine with a front end loader installed. I don't think I would consider putting a loader on one of these, it would probably pull just about any attachment with no problem, but the front axle looks too light for the extra weight. The most this will ever do is cut grass and maybe tote a small trailer to catch clippings or pick up leaves.


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## chrpmaster

Welcome to the Tractor Forum!

As far as the wheels and axels go I think that size is pretty common among many brands of tractors and has been used for decades. I know my 1977 Gravely 817 has the same size tires but has wheel bearings and 3/4" axels. I think my Dad has his old Walmart tractor with the same size wheels though I'm not sure about the bearings. Probably be interchangable with some on any of the major name brand tractors you find. It sounds like you are pretty good at finding deals so you should be able to locate some in someones junk or parts pile.

Good luck and let us know how you're coming with it.

Of course we want pictures too!


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## mckishen1

The tire size is common, I have three machines that all use the same tire. The only concern will be finding either a set of rims with bearings, or retro fitting a set of hubs and new bolt on rims that will work somehow with the existing spindles. There's a website that gives a few options, but I think there may be an easier way out for mine, I don't need to really increase the load capacity, I just would prefer it have wheel bearings over plastic bushings.

Check this out: http://www.p.f.engineering.50megs.com/photo.html

It would be overkill on my MTD, but would be an option on my Bolens or John Deere, on those I may not even have to change the spindle, depending on whether or not they are long enough as is to use a trailer type of hub. 

On the MTD, the bearings would have to be sealed to allow the use of the existing spindles as is, since they are only held on with a cotter pin. I could maybe thread the ends, but there's probably not enough room for that.


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## Archdean

I once had the same problem when I wanted to put Tundra tires on my PA18 Super Cub in Alaska!!!


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## chrpmaster

Darn it Dean I just sprayed my coffee all over my keyboard. 

:furious: :furious: :furious: 

It was almost worth it for that picture though. Good one!


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