# Ford 1510 leaking oil out exhaust



## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

My 1510 is spitting and leaking oil out the exhaust. 





It uses quite a bit of oil too, about a quart every half tank of fuel. The breather does have some air coming out, but not a lot of oil. Here is a pick of the breather hose.



I’m wondering if this is rings or valve guides? It spits oil out more pronounced at anything over 2000 rpm and smokes real bad. It always smokes a bit though no matter what rpm it is at. 

Can someone point me in the right direction here? I just finished rebuilding/restoring this tractor a few months ago. It had a bad injection pump when I got it and would barely run. Now that it is running properly I’m discovering this oil issue.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

Could be some bad blow-by. You could start off by checking the the compression. 


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

I checked compression and all cylinders were between 300-310.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I’m not sure what the specs are for that engine, but it seems quite low. 


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Looks like "diesel slobbering" or "wet stacking". It is caused by not working the engine hard enough to burn off exhaust residue. Put the tractor to work and that black crap will disappear. Diesels love hard work.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Compression is in the good range for that engine. You say you rebuilt the tractor, did that include rings, or just the injection pump? 

If you rebuilt the engine, and are experiencing high oil consumption, I would suggest the oil rings have not seated. If you just renewed the injection pump, then I would speculate a compound problem; dirty injectors drooling fuel in the intake, which in turn will gum the oil ring spacers causing excessive oil consumption. The diesel is also not fully combusting because of the drool, and is mixing with the unburned engine oil and leading to the slobber sixbales refers to.

This can be an easy fix if you are using a high quality multi-viscosity high detergent oil, by simply really loading the engine to the point the pistons get hot enough to clear the crud from the oil control ring spacers. But you need to be sure your injectors are clean and patterning properly. It will take several hours of heavy loading of the engine, and a couple of oil changes, but it should clear the oil consumption and slobbering issues.

It can also be a difficult fix if the oil consumption remains high, in that the pistons and cylinders will require rebuilding.

I see this sort of problem if an engine has the rings replaced and the cylinders are tapered, as that results in too much flex in the oil control rings and they will not seal.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

"Slobbering" for sure.. IF the oil level is correct.. pull the stick & MAKE SURE your not getting any fuel in the oil.
Work the snot out of a fresh engine.. the rings have not "seated"..
IF you wanna get the fuel system re-done, I'm available.. just send me a PM.


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

The pump was sent out and rebuilt, and the injectors were sent out to Oregon fuel injection for rebuild. 

I did not open up the engine and replace rings. I adjusted valves and that was about it. 

I did some more research online and read that this slobbering could be from prolonged periods of idling. I was indeed idling the tractor a bunch while hauling firewood. I would drive down to the woods at around 2000 rpm, then idle down to 1400 rpm while I loaded rounds of wood into the bucket and carryall, I would then drive back to the house at around 2000 rpm. I would then idle back down to 1400 while stacking the wood. Unloading and loading would take several minutes each time. I spent days doing this.

I’m still perplexed as to the oil consumption though.


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

Would a thicker viscosity oil help with consumption. Maybe some Lucas oil treatment?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

If you don't have the equipment to put it to work.. I've seen people "push" a tree..
Just put the front end against a big tree, drop it in gear & "mash the gas" for an hour or so..
Just riding around at hi rpms wont do the trick.. you have to put a load on the engine..
pulling a scraper, pulling a bush hog, running a tiller..ect.. 
I guess "rebuilding/restoring this tractor" [see post #1] have different meanings to different people..


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

I have a box blade, landscape rake, and Bush hog that will work her good. I was just afraid of causing engine damage because it was smoking so much. Our dirt road is full of potholes, so I will try dragging the blade around for a few hours.

I wouldn’t say this is a full restoration, I just wanted to get her mechanically sound and looking good before I put her to work. I didn’t see any reason to open up the engine because the compression was respectable.

When box blading and ripping with the shanks what rpm should the engine be at? Max rpm is 3000. Do I need the engine screaming like that though?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Depending on the pump mdl. it might have the "full load" rpm stamped on the name plate.. looks like> 54/800/2/2800.. the 800 is "full load" rpm [double it].. so 1600.
The 2800 is hi idle no-load rpm..


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

I’m not sure I follow, where should I set the rpm while ripping with the box blade?


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

2,800 rpm no load, then it will pull down to around 2,240 when properly loaded, which should also put you near the 540 pto flag on the tach. Use transmission gears to select optimum ground speed. 

If it does not pull hard enough to run at 2,240, then throttle down to achieve optimum load rpm.


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

Thank you, will report back with findings.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

The puzzling thing about this tractor is the oil consumption.....a quart of oil for a half tank of fuel?? You have a major problem.


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

Yes, agreed. I’m going to look at changing valve guide seals, as it is fairly cheap and easy to do.

While adjusting the valves I discovered the oil supply line for the rocker arm shaft missing. 



You can see the oil galley hole on the lower right side.

I fabbed up a new line that seems to be working well.



The rocker bosses wore pretty bad because of this, but I was able to adjust most of it out. After installing the tube is when I noticed the oil consumption and smoke.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Well, you should have told us this in the first place! Without lubrication, your valve stems, valve guides, rockers, etc., may be worn badly out of spec.

I'm really surprised that tube isn't a steel pipe. Is that a New Holland part? They call it a pipe. See item #53 on attached diagram.


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

No, the part is no longer available. I had to fab one up from heat resistant ptfe tubing.

There was still oil flowing up through the gallery hole, but I’m sure it wasn’t making it to the rear cylinder. This is probably why the rear cylinder exhaust port was blocked off with soot.


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

Here is a before and after of the #3 cylinder exhaust port.






The valve clearances were way off, like .060 from the wear.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Messick's lists that pipe for $4.68 (P/N SBA140986491) with 3-7 days for them to get it. Maybe they can get it, maybe not?? Give them a call at 1-977-260-3528.

I doubt that tubing will last. You can probably get used head parts for your 1510. There's plenty of them in tractor salvage yards. Look in the "dismantled machine" section of tractorhouse.com (they have 31 ea. 1510's listed in salvage)


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

which cylinder is the slobbering coming from, #3 doesn't look that wet to the point of discharging fluid.

I would run it with the exhaust manifold off to see which is the problem cylinder/s


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

That sounds like a good idea Fred. Will doing that hurt the engine? Maybe I could take a piece of cardboard and let the exhaust spray on it to see which cylinder it is coming from. I ordered the valve seals and overhead spring compressor last night, so they should be here soon.

I ordered the tube from Messicks when I rebuilt the tractor, but they said it was nla. I had this tubing from another project, and it is working great.

I ran the tractor with the valve cover off and was expecting a huge mess, so I had rags positioned everywhere. This wasn’t the case though, you can see the oil rise through the clear pipe I made, and it just drips out of the tip of the rocker arms.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

a short burst wont hurt the engine, --- just run it long enough to see where the oil is coming from.

If the oil tube is not available, I would make one from the appropriate size copper tube, --- the one you have made will eventually collapse with the engine heat, --- or try a tractor wrecker like sixbales has said.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Don't allow anyone to stand in line with the exhaust when you start it. Had a mechanics helper get badly burned when an engine spit fire and burning oil when starting an engine without the manifold.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

sixbales said:


> Don't allow anyone to stand in line with the exhaust when you start it. Had a mechanics helper get badly burned when an engine spit fire and burning oil when starting an engine without the manifold.


good one sixbales


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

Ok, I will be careful.


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

Valve seals came in yesterday, just waiting on the spring compressor now.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

THAT autta do it.. unless the guides are worn bad enough.. just wiggle'm when you get'm loose, to check..
Good luck.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Try running it with the exhaust manifold loose or off. That will show you which cylinder or cylinders has the problem. It seems like it is the rear one though.....


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

I think I’m ready to go, received my spring compressor.



Plan is to remove the injector and install a fitting from my diesel compression test kit and pressurize the cylinder to keep the valves from falling in. 

How many psi do I use though? Do I leave the dipstick out to prevent the crankcase from pressurizing?


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

Just wanted to post the results of changing the valve seals.





All of this dripping sludgy oil is from about an hour of running. It appears changing the seals didn’t help much if at all. The valve guides were very tight, almost no discernible movement.

I put about a half quart of Lucas oil treatment in to see if that helped, but I couldn’t tell a difference.

The number three exhaust port was wet when I pulled the manifold off. I didn’t run it with the manifold removed, as it was obvious that is where the oil is coming from. The other two ports were normal, just black soot.

Now what?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Well Dang.. We were all thinking that since the oil line had been "missing" that the new found oil was making its way thru the valve stems..& new seal were inorder.??
Pretty much only 2 things to do.. leave it alone or pull it down..
BUT I HAVE SEEN a mix of transmission fluid & acetone down the cylinders, break up/loosen up, stuck rings..
BUT, I'm thinking yours is broken, rather than stuck..?? Anything is worth a try..


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

I guess next question is are parts still available? 

I may try and remove that oil line for a few minutes to see if that stops the oil from coming out the exhaust. The crazy thing is it didn’t do this when I bought the tractor. The injector pump was messed up, but no smoke or oil from the exhaust. 

I’m wondering if the repair shop did something to it. They did tell me that “Now that it’s running right we found some blow by”. Which might be the case, but who knows.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

That has a PFR style pump yes?? The little pump that sits in a slot..
Its "possible" 1 cylinder is off.. but unlikely, seeing your not getting fuel in the oil..
have you tried swapping an injector to the furthest hole away from the problem cylinder??
That's to say, if 3 is bad.. swap the injector w/ #1 cylinder..
You mentioned getting the pump done.. what about the injectors?
I still think its a busted/stuck oil ring.. but anything is possible.
Yes, parts are available..
Do you plan on keeping the tractor or fixing her up & selling it?


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

I have not tried swapping injectors, worth a shot though I guess. The injectors were rebuilt by Oregon fuel injection.

I’m not sure what style pump is in there, will post a picture for you. I believe it is a cassette style though.

I’m thinking it must be some kind of ring issue also, which sucks.

I like the tractor as it is the perfect size for my needs, not too big, not too small. It is just nickel and diming me to death.


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

Pumpguy here are pics of the pump I have.







I’ve been searching around online looking for parts and it looks like I may be in trouble. Just not much out there.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

My two cents! Until you run the engine with a load and really good clean engine oil long enough to get it running at full operating temperature for an extended period you are fumbling around in the dark. 

Once these engines start slobbering it takes a lot of EGT heat to clear the pipes and remove the old contamination.

The exception to my advice is if you change the oil, then run the engine and do an oil analysis and find diesel contamination, or see the level rise as diesel level drops and the oil smells like diesel, then you likely have fuel leaking through from the injection pump.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Asymair95 said:


> Just wanted to post the results of changing the valve seals.
> 
> That oil hasn't been through the combustion chamber, I don't think.......seems to me there is a crack(or some other kind of a hole) in the head that lets oil into the exhaust AFTER the exhaust valve on #3 closes. Maybe.... I saw it on a skidder with a 3cyl. Cat engine, 40 (haha) years ago!
> 
> ...


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

RC, my oil level dropped after a day of use. I don’t think it’s a leaky injector.

I will remove some potholes and re-crown our dirt road with a box blade so I can load her up pretty good.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Isnt there supposed to be a wire gauze "filter" in the breather.. to keep THIS from happening??


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## Asymair95 (Nov 22, 2017)

I’m not getting much oil out the breather, all of my oil loss is out the exhaust pipe.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Stuff a "brillo-pad" in it & sell it.. hahahaha JUST KIDDING.!!


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