# JD3005 won't start after being upside-down over night



## GeorgeTE20 (Aug 30, 2006)

I flipped my JD3005 & it rested upside down for about 24 hours. It's now back on its wheels with no apparent damage but it won't start. When I turn the key it just makes a clunk sound once. What could be wrong?


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The engine is likely hydraulically locked from oil flowing past the rings and into the combustion chambers. Remove the fuel injectors and spin the engine by hand until the bulk of the oil is expelled, then spin it with the starter until it blows reasonably clear from the injector holes.

Do not attempt to crank it with the injectors still in place, that nearly always bends a connecting rod then requires engine tear down.


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## GeorgeTE20 (Aug 30, 2006)

Thanks for the reply. Never heard of "hydraulically locked" but I Googled & am now an expert!

Too late with the "Do not attempt to crank" advice; I've already done that a number of times. Is the starter motor "powerful" enough to bend connecting rods, etc.?

This AM I'll loosen/remove injectors, etc.

Thanks again ...


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

I think that you bend rods if you crank the engine and it attempts to start against a hydraulically locked cylinder.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

It depends on how much stroke the engine has before it hits the point it will no longer crank, and the cranking speed. The new emission compliant motors are more subject to damage than the older engines because of the limited squash area in the compression chamber. Once it is cleared of oil and started do not rev it up until it is to operating temperature, just let it idle as it warms. 

If you hear any knocking, other than the usual cold piston rattle of a diesel, shut it down. 

Once it is warm, bring it up to rated PTO speed, then immediately drop it back to idle. If you get a "woodpecker" or a thumping hammer sound as it drops back to idle, shut it down.

On the emission engines the top compression ring is now located near the top of the piston to eliminate the area around the piston crown in which unburned hydrocarbons are trapped. It is designed to press outward and increase the seal as the compression rises. If it runs good, keep an ear open in the next few operating hours for any evidence of hard starting or unusual rattle under load. 

These Yanmar engines are quite durable, but if you need to replace internal components it is more cost effective if you do not have the tools and engine rebuild manual to simply get a rebuilt engine.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

George.. what happened?? 90% of the time if you let'm sit up-right for a day, your "ok"..
BUT ALWAYS take the injectors out, BEFORE cranking the engine, to be sure..


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## GeorgeTE20 (Aug 30, 2006)

I've been letting it sit & letting the oil drain down out of the cylinders. From time to time I will turn the key. I haven't done that for the last couple days but the last time I think the engine turned one complete revolution. Can I assume that the oil (or enough of it) has drained so that I can try to actually try to start the engine?


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## geoff l (Oct 10, 2017)

Crank it with the injectors out first for a while, you really do want to be sure the motor won't hydraulic on residual oil, it will be an expensive fix it it does, there is enough inertia in the spinning flywheel when running the starter, which is a high torque setup, to bend a rod,which will be the weakest link.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Have you removed the injectors OR glow plugs?
Do you intend to?? if not, go ahead & give it a try..
You'll probably have to bleed the fuel system before it'll start.. just MAKE SURE you have fuel AT the injection pump.. then loosen all the lines AT THE INJECTORS & spin the engine until fuel squirts out of those lines & retighten..
It should start.. Have an EMERGENCY shut-down plan in place, incase it revs out of control.!!! 
A large piece of plywood over the air intake should do it.. good luck.


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## GeorgeTE20 (Aug 30, 2006)

All's well that ends well!

I got it running yesterday. It started very easily the first time I tried. There was a big cloud of white smoke when it did start. I assume that was the oil that was still left in the cylinders.

What I had done was to let it sit to allow the oil drain out of the cylinders for a long time. It turned out to be a couple weeks. I'd try to turn the engine over with the starter from time to time. At first, as I said in the original post, there was just a 'clunk' sound. As time went on, I could tell the engine was starting to rotate. At some point, I loosened the fuel inlet lines. I did this on advice to allow air to leak into the cylinder and help the oil draining. The rotation got to be more & more until I could tell it made a complete revolution. That's when I tightened the fuel inlet lines & tried to start the engine. It started immediately ... quicker than 'normal'.

Thanks everybody for all the helpful advice.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

I guess by now you have heard all the jokes about " green side up".


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