# IH 3400A Swing Cylinder Leak



## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

I took some pictures tonight. This doesn't look just right but...who knows. I have a fluid leak on top. I'm wondering just how to go about getting this fixed or, GIT R DONE. 

I have lots of tweaking to do but this has to be addressed pretty quick. any Help would be appreciated. I am looking for a local shop that does good work for a good price...Ain't we all ?? If not, I'll do it myself as usual. Have a look !!

The Backhoe number is 3100 U 1111 if that means anything.

Thanks and Cheers,
Gene


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

I suppose my first question is that looks like a home made flange on top. That is where the fuid is coming from. Is there an easy way to pull this, or can it be rebuilt in place. It works, just leaks pretty bad. Any help would be appreciated. I'm gonna post the other pictures I took in the appropriate section. I don't see any pictures of this model tractor 3400A.

Take Care,
Gene


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## jbleaux (May 10, 2012)

Gene,

It can be fixed in place. What do you call 'easy'. I say it is not easy but what is?

Joe



etemplet said:


> I suppose my first question is that looks like a home made flange on top. That is where the fuid is coming from. Is there an easy way to pull this, or can it be rebuilt in place. It works, just leaks pretty bad. Any help would be appreciated. I'm gonna post the other pictures I took in the appropriate section. I don't see any pictures of this model tractor 3400A.
> 
> Take Care,
> Gene


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

jbleaux said:


> Gene,
> 
> It can be fixed in place. What do you call 'easy'. I say it is not easy but what is?
> 
> Joe



Well, I was wondering if someone does this allot they would have devised a simple MORE easy method to keeping the boom in position or removing the boom without heavy equipment. With a minimum of fuss, so to speak. 

The key to my action plan is whether the seal at the top shaft is leaking (only) or does this leak denote that there is a fluid leak someplace else. If I can get at this from the top and that will cure it...sobeit. However, If I have to get into the system fully. I will remove the whole swing cylinder and service the unit. Which, given the receipts I have, the previous owner didn't fix a whole lot of stuff that costs real money.  For example, mainly $100.00 or less repairs.

There isn't much in the way of repairs that I cannot do at home. I also have access to large machinery by way of our shop, if needed. When I get into repair the pins and bores on the backhoe (I have a couple I want to repair) I may post how I perform the repairs.

Anyway Joe, I am looking forward to discussing with you what happened to your unit and what you did to repair it. Personally, I'm about the yank the whole thing off and make it simple and easy to access. I got time.

Take Care and thanks for posting up. This is great information and it is important to share.

Gene

PS, your mention of easy.... try pulling the engine and transmission out of a VW New Beetle and fixing a cam design flaw in the head. Miserable, the whole way but...got r done. Only took a year. LOL


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

*did you fix it?*

Gene did you get the seal fixed? did you fix it in place or did you end up taking the hole dipper off?


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

No, as Joe mentioned to me, you can leave the backhoe installed and it would be way too much unnecessary work to remove it for such a simple fix. I did say simple, but not easy. LOL I think I might have some pictures of my repair in progress. I had a great deal of trouble getting my sleeve out of there. Whoever owned this thing was no mechanic for certain. Looks like they beat the sleeve back in with a mall, then went past the sealing area and couldn't get it back up. The home made plate was so it wouldn't back out, because they beat it so far down the lock bolt would not fit in place either. I had to drill some holes for jack bolts to remove the sleeve. I ended up going to 1/2" bolts which I would not recommend (wall thickness an seal area being critical) Hopefully you won't need to do this.

Anyway, It was a simple o-ring and lip seal replacement. My shaft was worn which was a concern but after assembly, no leaks I'll check for pictures.

On a side note, I had to machine the Outside Diameter of the sleeve ($600 for a new sleeve was my quote) so it would fit in the bore and I could gently bump it in to position. I also cut another o-ring groove while I had it chucked up in the lathe.

AS for the backhoe to stabilize it ...I put a floor jack under the backhoe (dipper as you say) to hold the boom in position while I worked on it. You'll need to be able to manipulate that so you can line up the pin and sleeve. If you are going to leave it overnight or a few hours, I'd block the boom because if the jack leaks down at all, the boom can get out of position an extreme amount and that MIGHT hurt something.

I'll see If I have some pictures.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

I just remembered also.... I heated the hell out of the SOB with my cutting torch a few times. Had to let it cool then start all over again. THIS SLEEVE SHOULD SLIDE OUT. A good way to get it to move would be to apply hydraulic pressure (gently) with the lock pin removed but I would use something to prevent the sleeve from launching (shooting out of there).

I did not find any pictures on the computer. I might have some in the camera but I doubt it. If you have problems, I can get you through it.


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

very good!


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## jbleaux (May 10, 2012)

jim111 said:


> very good!



First and foremost, ENSURE THAT THE LARGE NUT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE SWING CYLINDER IS TIGHT.
Did I say "TIGHT". You need over 600 ft. lbs. of torque. I replaced my seal in the swing cylinder and it still leaked!

Beyond p.o.'ed, I got a large wrench and a long cheater pipe to go over it -about four or so feet- and, presto, no more leak.

Now, if I could just get the power steering back to working.

As Gene said (Hello, Gene), use one of the hydraulic lines fitted to the top of the cylinder to push the thing up and then, weld some 5/8" to 3/4" inch nuts equidistant on both sides of the cylinder. Then, get some all-thread of whatever threads the nut/s take. Then, get a very thick steel plate and cut some notches in it to slip over the all-thread pieces on either side. Cut your all-thread to go four or more inches ABOVE your hydraulic jack. Then, push the rod back into the cylinder.

All of the above assumes that TIGHTENING THE BOTTOM NUT DID NOT STOP YOUR LEAK.

Naturally, you will have to first remove the yoke that holds the swing cylinder in place and after you use one of the hydraulic lines to push it out, you will have to remove the fitting on the top. Be sure to remove the bolt in the side of the cylinder that holds the sleeve in place.

Good luck.

Joe


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

I hope to get back on the old hoe tomorrow,(one of them great deals you cant pass) the first thing I will check is the nut with a 4 foot cheater pipe. this site is great thanks alot


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

jbleaux said:


> As Gene said (Hello, Gene),


Joe, where you been man??? Hope you are doing well. Drop me a line if you get a chance. My backhoe is working well but.... I have a couple of issue that might be BIG. Not that I want to work on the transmission or remove the left axle and fix the brakes. I do have time though. LOL

Take Care !! and get that Power Steering fixed !!


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

tried to tighten the nut, it is tight to the point that a 4' cheater wouldn't budge it, I hoped that would work. So it is new o ring time, Gene could you give me the steps on what lines to unhook-hook up? to get the top bushing out, I did find the o rings I need online. thanks for any advise. Jim


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

My bottom nut was plenty tight as well. It was not an issue for me.

Jim youwill also need a new lip seal for the top. That will keep the dust out. I am not sure where you will get it, it seems to be one of those proprietary items that no one makes. If memory serves, I had to machine the bushing bore a bit to make it fit. I wouldn't recommend this but I didn't feel like waiting around for a match on the lip seal.

Jim, it is pretty easy to see which lines you need to disconnect to get at the bushing area. I suggest marking them on each end to insure you put them back in the same place. Like I said, no amount of hydraulic pressure would move my bushing. I had to drill and tap the bushing and insert all thread rods (hardened ones worked better for me) and Jack the bushing out using HEAT. It was a tough process but something I am quite accustomed to in my line of work. As an aside, I would not tap the side wall larger than 3/8". 1/2" as way way too close to the o-ring diameter on the OD of the bushing. Hopefully you won't need to do this.

You'll need some type of jack to hold the boom stationary and supported so you can remove the upper spline block that holds the shaft and boom in position. Monitor your jack to make sure it does not leak down and cause the boom to move placing stress on the shaft and such.

Just reconnect all of the hydraulic lines you disconnected. I am not sure what JOe did to apply pressure without moving the boom VIA actuating the swing mechanism. I just removed the spline block and let the shaft spin but as I mentioned, that did not work for me, nor would it have.

Once you get the bushing out you'll see 2 O-rings. 1 external, 1 internal with a back up FLAT ring to take up some space and prevent the internal o-ring from squishing out of the groove when pressure Is applied. Be careful and watch which side the back up ring is located.

There is also, on the boom side of the block (at the top and easy to see), a nut or bolt which must be removed to get the bushing out. The lock pin (bolt) fits into a slot on the bushing. If you don't remove it, the bushing will not come out.

That should be good for starters. So much we do on these things is trial and error. I hope your bushing comes out easy and goes back in EASY. If not, let me know, I might be able to help.

Good Luck !!


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

well that sounds easy enough, (I hope she pops right out!) The top seal I have not looked for yet, I am hoping I can find it, I would think I should be able to. I sure hope this works I really like the machine it runs and operates good, thanks a lot, Jim


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Jim before you remove the lip seal. Try to get some numbers off it. That might help. IH Numbers are not really that good unless the still make the part. LOL That is the most disappointing thing to me concerning this machine, parts availability. I takes so much longer for the fixes when you have to improvise, overcome and adapt. LOL It is a mental exercise though so I guess that is a good thing. 

I touched a wrench against the starter hot wire and my shut off cable which melted the cable immediately. The cable is no longer available so I have to stick my hand in there and shut the machine down. Pain in the butt is what it is.

I feel like the old saying, "We've done so much, for so long, with so little, we are now qualified to do everything with nothing." LOL


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

great old saying, use to hear that at work! I figured if I cant get the numbers off the seal I could mike it, I was thinking surely some where out in the manufacturing world there using the same type of seal on something, now to find the time for the repair.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Jim, I have extensive resources for all kinds of equipment parts. Sometimes, the manufacturers have a part made JUST for them and it becomes "proprietary". Lip seals, bearings and a host of other parts. I tried to find the exact lip seal because I get anal with these at times depending on the application. I think you could get away with anything that fits in there. For me, the lip seal thickness was the issue. I just machined the bore a bit so the seal would be almost flush. The lip seal doesn't hold much pressure but it is there to keep foreign particles out of the bushing area. For most of us, any thing that fits would be close enough.

I'm working on motorcycles this week.


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

Great! I hope to find one so I don't have to duct tape it.


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## jbleaux (May 10, 2012)

HOLD ON! I have the seal part number/s - I THINK. I also have some pictures but I have to get the phase of the moon right in order to upload them. I also have to do things with the sun, too, in order to get you the numbers.

I THINK that these parts will be avail. from San Antonio and I will get you that info., as well.

Joe


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

lol- what is that san Antonio seal company?


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

jim111 said:


> lol- what is that san Antonio seal company?


Joe has some resources in Tejas. Jim you will find that "helpful" vendors and shops are a GOLD MINE to IH Equipment owners. You can't just try one, you have to try a few to get a GOOD ONE. LOL

I deal with Head & Enquist here in New Orleans. One guy there is very helpful but they don't specialize in small old backhoes, they work on the BIG STUFF (cranes and such) !!

It would be nice to have a resource that can get parts for these things. Might be a business opportunity for someone.


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## jbleaux (May 10, 2012)

Hah! No, Jim, that is a city in Texas...."REMEMBER THE ALAMO".

Well, I got some pics up for you and Gene and anyone else. I still have to find my book with the part numbers and the contact person for the parts in San Antonio.
It won't be much longer.

Now, I have other pictures but the ones in my folder are pretty much it unless you want pics of the swing cylinders themselves. Those are the two short, fat cylinders on either side of the main cylinder.

ALSO, I THINK.... there I go, thinking again.....dangerous, that I curled the backhoe bucket underneath the beast and raised the whole thing almost vertical after that.
I put a hydaulic jack (20 ton - over kill) underneath that infamous nut on the swing cylinder and that is all that I did. I may have chained everything up and tight but don't recall. That would be a prudent thing to do.

Oh, you must align the bushing with a mark on its housing. Clean the top really good so that you can see it.

Joe





jim111 said:


> lol- what is that san Antonio seal company?


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## jim111 (Aug 4, 2013)

I do remember reading about that Alamo or seen the show, hey thanks this has been some great information!


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## Rshuttl (May 2, 2014)

I have my swing mechanism apart right now and you will need to remove the boom to get at the repair areas. The lower bearing is most likely bad as well as the lower busing and of course the easier stuff in the stop like seals and orings. I have a small dozer that I removed the boom with after stretching it out. Remove the lower nut, and either hammer on the shaft or press it out through the top. Most likely you will have a big hunt for parts after that! The lower bushing and bearing are impossible to find. If any one can help me with those parts (NEW OR OLD) I sure would appreciate it! Part number 468336R1 ( spacer, lower shaft bearing) and 545222R92 (self aligning swing shaft bearing.


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## Natetate (Aug 18, 2021)

Hey guys, new to the sight. My father just bought one of these backhoes and it is having the same leak on the bushing. My question is if it is the outside oring can we just bring the bushing out a little and replace it the push the bushing back down? Or do we have to bring it completely out and replace both orings.


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