# Front End Loader goes up but will not come down



## Darcy Chernia

I was working with my Kubota L2850 and the loader no longer goes down when I select down on the control valve. The loader will go down if I put the control valve in float mode. I have disassembled and reassembled the spool for the up down circuit. Every looked fine and fix the problem. I switched the hoses for the bucket and loader and the loader spool operates the bucket correctly. When the loader is connected to the bucket spool selecting up moves the loader up as expected but selecting down causes the loader to also go up. I am new to troubleshooting hydraulic issues. Any suggestions on how to isolate the problem would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks


----------



## RC Wells

If the bucket curls properly when connected to either loader valve, the problem is likely a chunk of seal from one of the loader lift cylinders popped loose and is blocking the return line from those cylinders. Likely at the "t" where both cylinders come together for the return line to the valve.

I would speculate once the blockage is cleared, the cylinder with the broken cylinder will need to be rebuilt or it will drift down under load.


----------



## Dyke A Cook

RC Wells said:


> If the bucket curls properly when connected to either loader valve, the problem is likely a chunk of seal from one of the loader lift cylinders popped loose and is blocking the return line from those cylinders. Likely at the "t" where both cylinders come together for the return line to the valve.
> 
> I would speculate once the blockage is cleared, the cylinder with the broken cylinder will need to be rebuilt or it will drift down under load.


----------



## Dyke A Cook

Sounds to simple, but I found out that I was loosing Hyro Fluid, found the leak, fixed it, replaced hydo fluid to full line, put cap back on started tractor idling for about 10 seconds. I then had my bucket operating properly. Amazing what hydro fluid will due. Keep an eye on the level just to be sure you are not leaking somewhere else. Good Luck.


----------



## Darcy Chernia

**** A Cook said:


> Sounds to simple, but I found out that I was loosing Hyro Fluid, found the leak, fixed it, replaced hydo fluid to full line, put cap back on started tractor idling for about 10 seconds. I then had my bucket operating properly. Amazing what hydro fluid will due. Keep an eye on the level just to be sure you are not leaking somewhere else. Good Luck.


Level looks good. Thanks for the reply


----------



## Darcy Chernia

RC Wells said:


> If the bucket curls properly when connected to either loader valve, the problem is likely a chunk of seal from one of the loader lift cylinders popped loose and is blocking the return line from those cylinders. Likely at the "t" where both cylinders come together for the return line to the valve.
> 
> I would speculate once the blockage is cleared, the cylinder with the broken cylinder will need to be rebuilt or it will drift down under load.


Thanks
I will disconnected the hose at the T and look for a blockage. If no blockage is apparent can I leave the hose off and try the control valve to see if the fluid is flowing ?


----------



## Darcy Chernia

Darcy Chernia said:


> Thanks
> I will disconnected the hose at the T and look for a blockage. If no blockage is apparent can I leave the hose off and try the control valve to see if the fluid is flowing ?


Is the return the bottom line on the spool ?


----------



## RC Wells

When the loader arms are raised the lines from the bottom of the lift cylinders are the pressure lines, then when it is lowered they become return lines allowing the arms to fall. The obstruction will most likely be in that circuit where the two cylinders are connected to the common line to the spool, or even in the quick connect fitting on the end of the hose where it connects to the valve fitting. That fitting has a check valve that can become stuck with debris. Just follow that common line to the valve to identify which spool.

Live system testing is not recommended, dangerous and can be a fire hazard. It is better to remove the hoses and blow air through them so only a moderate amount of wasted fluid is caught in a bucket.


----------



## Guest

Hello and welcome to the Tractor Forum. We have some very knowledgeable and experienced members.

You might consider putting your tractor in the Showcase (located under the TRACTOR button at the top of the page). A perk is that if you add your tractor to the Showcase, it becomes instantly eligible to be entered in our monthly tractor contest, in progress right now. Please be sure to add your vote for this months Tractor of the Month, which is found on the main menu as the fourth category, listed as "Tractor of the month". The poll is at the top of the page. Thank you for your vote and again, welcome!


----------



## Darcy Chernia

RC Wells said:


> When the loader arms are raised the lines from the bottom of the lift cylinders are the pressure lines, then when it is lowered they become return lines allowing the arms to fall. The obstruction will most likely be in that circuit where the two cylinders are connected to the common line to the spool, or even in the quick connect fitting on the end of the hose where it connects to the valve fitting. That fitting has a check valve that can become stuck with debris. Just follow that common line to the valve to identify which spool.
> 
> Live system testing is not recommended, dangerous and can be a fire hazard. It is better to remove the hoses and blow air through them so only a moderate amount of wasted fluid is caught in a bucket.


Thanks for the reply

If the bucket is working correctly does that eliminate the quick connect fitting as a problem ?


----------



## rhino

Try moving the 3point hitch lever forward until the hitch arms start to drop. If that helps and the loader starts working again. The hitch might be out of adjustment. Three point might be dead heading the hydraulic system affecting the loader operation. Try it and if it works let me know and I will tell you how to adjust the hitch arm


Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum


----------



## RC Wells

As I understand your explanation, the bucket curls in and out just fine when connected to the frame lift side of the FEL controls. That being the case the control side quick connects are good. But, the FEL connector that plugs into the loader valve could be plugged or defective.


----------



## Darcy Chernia

RC Wells said:


> When the loader arms are raised the lines from the bottom of the lift cylinders are the pressure lines, then when it is lowered they become return lines allowing the arms to fall. The obstruction will most likely be in that circuit where the two cylinders are connected to the common line to the spool, or even in the quick connect fitting on the end of the hose where it connects to the valve fitting. That fitting has a check valve that can become stuck with debris. Just follow that common line to the valve to identify which spool.
> 
> Live system testing is not recommended, dangerous and can be a fire hazard. It is better to remove the hoses and blow air through them so only a moderate amount of wasted fluid is caught in a bucket.


Ok I disconnected both loader cylinders from the common line going back to the loader spool on the control valve and the lines from the spool itself. Blew air through both lines. Did not seem to be blocked. Air flows very easy. I have a rear hydraulic connection. I am wondering if its worth testing the loader cylinders one at a time to see if they are working in both directions before reconnecting all the hoses again and topping up the fluid ?


----------



## RC Wells

I suppose I would verify they are both fully functional. The hydraulic fluid is full when you try to lift the loader, right?

If the fluid is low they will not lift, yet the curl cylinders will work because they are much smaller capacity.


----------



## Darcy Chernia

RC Wells said:


> I suppose I would verify they are both fully functional. The hydraulic fluid is full when you try to lift the loader, right?
> 
> If the fluid is low they will not lift, yet the curl cylinders will work because they are much smaller capacity.


After I blew the lines for the loader cylinders out I also blew air through the quick disconnects while I had all the hoses off. Hooked everything back up and things are working again. Not sure if there was an obstruction I did not notice when the fluid came out of the lines from blowing air through them but I am happy its working again. At least for the moment. Thanks for help.


----------



## Darcy Chernia

rhino said:


> Try moving the 3point hitch lever forward until the hitch arms start to drop. If that helps and the loader starts working again. The hitch might be out of adjustment. Three point might be dead heading the hydraulic system affecting the loader operation. Try it and if it works let me know and I will tell you how to adjust the hitch arm
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum


Thanks for the reply.

After I hooked everything back up the loader is working again. I did try moving the 3 point hitch all the way up and it does seem to be a little out of adjustment. When the lever is against the upper stop the hydraulics moan. I have to move the lever slightly forward to the point just where the 3 point hitch does not start to lower. About a half inch from the upper stop. Is there much to adjusting it ?


----------



## rhino

First things first, glad that you have loader working. Now the 3 point hitch lever there is a stop on it, it is at the top of the glide path of the lever arm. Over the years of moving the lever back it will get knocked back out of the way. Make sure that the stop is all way forward. If it is and the tractor still goes against relief, then the control rod needs adjusting. Standing behind the tractor there is a rod on the left side of the rock shaft. You will see jam nuts on it. Break them loose there are three nuts on this rod, two of them towards you and one in front of the bracket, Now you will need to adjust the rod ether ahead or back to you. Have the tractor running and move the rod with the nuts until the hydraulics stop moaning and the engine will smooth out. Now you will need to keep adjusting the rod until you see the hitch arms move down. When you can lift the arms by your hands one inch, then lock al the jam nuts down. You should be good to go. I have done is to a lot of Kubota's worked on them for over 36 years.


----------



## Darcy Chernia

rhino said:


> First things first, glad that you have loader working. Now the 3 point hitch lever there is a stop on it, it is at the top of the glide path of the lever arm. Over the years of moving the lever back it will get knocked back out of the way. Make sure that the stop is all way forward. If it is and the tractor still goes against relief, then the control rod needs adjusting. Standing behind the tractor there is a rod on the left side of the rock shaft. You will see jam nuts on it. Break them loose there are three nuts on this rod, two of them towards you and one in front of the bracket, Now you will need to adjust the rod ether ahead or back to you. Have the tractor running and move the rod with the nuts until the hydraulics stop moaning and the engine will smooth out. Now you will need to keep adjusting the rod until you see the hitch arms move down. When you can lift the arms by your hands one inch, then lock al the jam nuts down. You should be good to go. I have done is to a lot of Kubota's worked on them for over 36 years.


Finally had a chance to look at the stop. Found the problem. The stop is missing. Used a bolt and washer to create a upper stop. Can't move the lever to high any more. Thanks


----------



## SJ_in_FLO

rhino said:


> First things first, glad that you have loader working. Now the 3 point hitch lever there is a stop on it, it is at the top of the glide path of the lever arm. Over the years of moving the lever back it will get knocked back out of the way. Make sure that the stop is all way forward. If it is and the tractor still goes against relief, then the control rod needs adjusting. Standing behind the tractor there is a rod on the left side of the rock shaft. You will see jam nuts on it. Break them loose there are three nuts on this rod, two of them towards you and one in front of the bracket, Now you will need to adjust the rod ether ahead or back to you. Have the tractor running and move the rod with the nuts until the hydraulics stop moaning and the engine will smooth out. Now you will need to keep adjusting the rod until you see the hitch arms move down. When you can lift the arms by your hands one inch, then lock al the jam nuts down. You should be good to go. I have done is to a lot of Kubota's worked on them for over 36 years.


*WOW. That was it. a simple fix. THANK YOU!*


----------

