# 4x8 trailer



## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

My neighbor across the street passed away a few years ago & his son's inherited the property. I helped them fix up & clean as much as I could. They lived 2 hours away & I watched the place whenever they were away. I also cut their grass for them. For my efforts, they gave me an older, maybe late '70s tilt-bed trailer with the title. The deck was shot & both tires were dry rotted & only held air for about 3 days. I replaced the deck with a 4x8 sheet of 1/2" plywood secured by 8 eye-bolts which doubled as tie-downs. I eventually replaced both taillights & the wiring to the right light. Worked great for hauling lawn tractors...until...I hauled a Cub Cadet 1450. The plywood creaked & groaned like it was going to give. It didn't, but it made me realize that if I wanted to haul something heavy, 1/2" plywood was not the way to go. Sure, I could double up & make it 1", but 2x12s would be better. I bought 4 2x12s & ripped about 1/2" off a 2x4 (stupid nominal width lumber) to fill the 48" deck width. I have all the carriage bolts I need to secure it from Lowe's (18 cents each), but now I have no tie-downs. The eye bolts that were holding down the plywood will now be welded to the sides of the trailer frame, which is made of 1/4" steel angle stock. I got 2 mig welded on, then ran out of wire. I had this machine for 15 years, barely used it, now it's out of wire. In the morning, I plan on making a run to Harbor Freight Tools & getting a spool of .035" wire, some .035" tips & a couple extra nozzles. I may even arc weld the eye bolts, I don't know yet. The trailer is already the same color as my truck (blue), which is a coinicidence, but I plan on repainting it the same color eventually. Trailers are like boats, cars, trucks, tractors, or any other large toy. They can become a project real quick.


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## farmertim (Dec 1, 2010)

I agree T...B..., I built a small one for my wifes mower, it isn't pretty enough for photos yet but it works.
I just love the eyebolt idea, I am gonna use that too (it's not patented I hope)

you will have to put up a photo or two when it's done
Cheers
:aussie:


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Yep redoing trailer etc. can become interesting mostly when it fits your needs at the ribbion cutting....got pics.


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## Halifax (Oct 8, 2009)

Just food for thought, on my 5X8 trailer it has the useless sheet metal sides, so I used, if I remember correctly, grade 8 bolt through 5 links on chain at each corner. That way I can use my ratchet straps, chain, or rope to tie down the lawn mower or atv. I know I've put quite a bit of tension on them so far and have had no problems.

Aubrey


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I tried to mig the eye bolts on, but couldn't get enough heat (mine is a 90 amp unit, good for sheetmetal). Had to arc weld. Came out good, I think. After I was done, I noticed I had enough room on the sides to attach d-rings on a swivel, sold at any Menards or similar hardware type store, which would cost $3.99 for 2 of them. I already had the eye bolts, so I used those.

I broke my only 5/16" drill bit (brand new from Ace Hardware), so I took it back & got a new one. Ran out of daylight, so in the morning I will drill all the bolt holes, install the carriage bolts & paint the wood. After it dries, I'll finish securing the wood. Hopefully I'll be able to paint the topside, too. 

The entire frame needs to be sandblasted & repainted, new fenders, etc., but that's a project for next year. Everything will work fine as is for now.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Drilled all the holes, painted the wood 2 coats on each side, then installed the wood with carriage bolts & nylon insert locknuts. What a pain! Next time I'll countersink hexhead bolts w/washers or use allen head bolts. Here it is completed. Next year I'll paint the frame & maybe replace the fenders (Sears Suburban fenders look like they'll work...).


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Basement outside window wells also works good.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Nah, too big! I've only got 4.80x8 tires on this trailer. Heck, a small piece of aluminum diamondplate would work well. I think I may have a piece...


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

If you plan on doing some somewhat long distance trips with it, you might want to invest in a larger set of tires - the small tires heat up quite a bit and tend to have blow outs, specially if loaded down.

Harbor freight has these step drill bits - usually a 3 pack - i swear by them, they cut awsome, last a long time ( my first set lasted well over 2 years of constant use) - they are a lil expensive tho, but worth it.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I've done long distance trips & never had a blowout with these tires.

I have some step drill bits. BTW, Who was talking about step drill bits?


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Today, I decided to remove the fenders & replace them with something that looks a little better. They sit too high for the size tires that are on it & mower decks wider than 48" will scrape the fenders. 

I had an idea to cut a plastic 5 gallon bucket in half & use the halves as fenders. Too small. My buddy tractorwrangler gave me an old 30 gallon plastic barrel. I'll measure it out in the morning. If my calculations are correct, I can cut the barrel in half lengthwise, then cut it back to about 7 inches wide. I'd use the bottom of the cut off barrel so the flat side (bottom) gets bolted to the side of the trailer. I have a can of Krylon Fushion paint (for plastic) in Royal blue that will match my trailer which also matches my truck. I may end up painting the entire trailer. We'll see...

Almost forgot; I went to tighten up the bolts that hold the spring & shackle on the left rear & it snapped off. Bought 2 new bolts & associated hardware to fix that problem. I may also have to repack the wheel bearings. It's been awhile.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Today I cut the plastic barrel & made a pair of fenders. I used a pneumatic cutoff tool (whizzer) to score a deep trench in the plastic, then finished the cut with a hand saw. Worked well I must say! I painted both fenders, inside & out, with Krylon Fusion paint. The barrel was white, but took the blue paint like it belonged there. Now it's hard to tell it wasn't a blue recycling bin. Pics to come...

Also, when I went to tighten one of the u-bolts on the right spring, it snapped. After looking around Ace Hardware, Menards & Lowes, I decided to make my own u-bolt using a length of 3/8" threaded rod bent to shape. Took hours to realize I couldn't find the right part, took all of 5 minutes to bend it up & install it! It's all fixed now & I sanded & painted the trailer while I had the tools & paint out. I need the trailer to deliver & install a couple bounce houses in the morning, so I had to finish tonight.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Here are a couple pics of the sad, old fenders. Just a single flat piece of thin sheetmetal & 3 brackets. Mower decks wider than 48" would scrape or bend the fenders. Sometimes I had to prop the tires (or other items) up on boards to clear the fenders. There was just NO reason for the fenders to be that high.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Here is the barrel I used. It was formerly a 30 gallon car wash soap container. 

Next is the cut.

Last is the mock-up.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The fender installed & painted.

The fender installed, painted & wheel installed.

#3 is the wrong pic. I don't know how to delete it.


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## robby (Apr 24, 2012)

That looks cool


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The finished right fender with the broken u-bolt that gave me hours of frustration. That is, until I made one from a 3/8" threaded rod...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

robby said:


> That looks cool


Thank you very much!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bent the heck out of the tongue a few times as I was backing her up. Last week, I backed into a buddie's driveway & bent the tongue all to heck! Turns out it was a bolt that broke off.

It's a tilt-bed, but it also swivels for some reason. There was a home-made universal joint that allowed both functions. I really have no need for a swivel function on a tilt-bed trailer, so I removed the u-joint & broken/seized bolt & redrilled the holes in the tongue to line up with the holes in the frame. The 5/8" bolt goes through both sets of holes, but now the tongue is not square to the frame! *$#@*!!

I hate working on stuff in the dark!

I will now cut off about 2" of tongue (it's too long anyway...), *line up the tongue in the frame*, then mark & redrill the holes in the tongue! While I'm at it, I may strengthen or replace the bracket that holds the tongue in place. I should probably replace the hitch, too. 

May not be a bad idea to fabricate some sort of flag holder, or other sort of warning device on the back of the trailer. She sits so low, _women_ can't see the trailer when I drive it in traffic & come to a stop. I've been rear-ended twice (by women)! Even with a pair of working taillights on the trailer & lots of lights & reflectors on the truck (it's got a utility bed) & trailer, it sits below the hoodline of many vehicles. I was thinking of a short length of 1/2" pipe welded to each side of the frame at the rear (standing vertically) into which a length of rebar or another pipe would fit into. Then, a chain with some warning flags would be stretched across the rear of the trailer at eye level. It would be removable for loading, of course.


Pics to follow at a later date...


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Looks good! Plastic drum makes some pretty decent fenders, there. No more rust and the fenders shouldn't dent anymore.
Don't cut the tongue too short or it will be a bugger to back up with it.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*trailer*

Looks good,TB !
This is the trailer I built 7yrs ago. It hauls some pretty heavy tractors,and I've only blown 1 tire( hit a piece of metal). However,I want to get the 12" rim/tires(4-bolt) for a smoother ride.

View attachment 15554


View attachment 15555


View attachment 15556


The sideboards,are actually the ramps.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

I want to rip the expanded wire out of mine, and put in 5/4 deck board. Nice looking job you have done so far TB.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I agree! TB is getting it done very well. It should make for a real good hauler.
I think he's on the right track,too,with the 2x12s. Although they add pulled weight,they last longer than the expanded metal,with heavy loads.
I did the same thing on the tongue,as well. Mine used to have the articulated (tilt/roll) tongue,and it was hard to pull,and control.
Keep up the good work,TB,and post some more pics!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

jhngardner367 said:


> Keep up the good work,TB,and post some more pics!


I will, IF I ever get enough time away from work!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Just getting over a short-tern stomach bug, but Tractorwrangler & I did some work on the trailer today. We cut off the trailer end of the tongue, squared it off, then measured & redrilled the holes for the 5/8" bolt. It lined up perfectly!

We then set about replacing the latch that holds the deck down, which was just a $7 gate latch, with a spring-loaded gate latch. This one was marked $16, but the price at the register was $10 less! I didn't argue. 

We replaced the original spring with a substantially beefier one (about $2 & change), turned the bolt upside-down (it's square & has a bevel on one end to latch automatically), and welded it to the tongue. The hole for the original latch bolt was round, but we made it square by drilling & filing, snapping the handle off a tri-file in the process. 

It got dark & cold, so we packed up the tools & called it a day.

All that's left is to weld a small piece of bar-stock onto the tongue that fits between the tongue & behind the deck underside (I'll post pics), and straighten out the receiver & tack a weld to resecure it to the tongue. We'll probably cut off & locate the safety chain rings on the rear bumper of my truck, since they are the main reason I keep bending the trailer receiver when I back up & turn too tightly.

I also have a request to cut an elderly friend's grass & bag some leaves, but that will depend on whether we finish the trailer or not.

Pics tomorrow most likely. Even though I missed work Friday because I was sick, a 3 day weekend is still not enough time to get stuff done!

I still have to touch up a couple items on my roof (j-channel & siding on a very small area, replace a small piece of flashing, paint the chimney/vent stacks flat black), oil changes on my wife's car & my truck, organize my lawn tractor projects in the back yard & winterize the ones that are finished, install a couple rivets & paint the metal on a rifle handguard for my brother-in-law (and give him back his rifle), deliver a lawn tractor to my brother-in-law & pick up a washer/dryer set, run a gas line so I can use the new dryer I'm getting, sell my old washer & dryer, clean/repair & install the snowblower on the Central Park (AYP) lawn tractor I picked up recently, gasp for air..., etc.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

My elderly friend opted out of the lawn maintenance today, so I welded the small piece of bar-stock onto the trailer tongue, straightened out the receiver & added some weld to it. I can't afford a new receiver right now, so the choice was simple. 

I also decided to run the trailer taillight wiring through the tongue. That involved drilling a couple holes & reattaching the 4-flat connector to the harness. Ran out of natural light, had to go pick up a Craftsman leaf bagger system I found on craigslist for $7, ran out again for a free 3 ft. deep inflatable swimming pool (with ladder, filter & some chemicals) I found on cl for free...AND...helped a friend field dress an 8 point buck that ran into a van & got killed.

Kind of a full day!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Dressed up the weld on the latch, primed & painted it. 

Cut off the steel rings that were used as safety chain attachments since they kept destroying the trailer hitch every time I backed up & turned too sharply, drilled a couple holes in the bumper for the safety chains, primed & touched up the paint. I still need to paint the bumper & more of the trailer Safety Blue, but that will have to wait until payday.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Today I put the trailer on jack stands & removed both wheels in preparation for new tires. My buddy Tractorwrangler bought me a new pair of Carlisle Sport Trail tires for it. So...I removed both wheels, removed the tires from the wheels, cut off the valve stems, degreased & sanded both wheels, primed & painted the insides & backsides with gloss black. The outsides are going to be flat aluminum so the trailer matches my truck, which is blue with flat aluminum wheels. I may mask off the hubs & paint them gray to further enhance their appearance.


Pics to follow tomorrow...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Some pics...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Old crappy, ugly wheel...before & _almost_ after (still have to upload pics of painted wheel):


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The tires soon to be mounted:


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

It'll be cool to see 'er all done! keep up the good work


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Don't know if I'll ever be completely done. Something new always comes along.

Last night I painted the outer face of the wheels with Valspar Argent wheel paint. Covered nicely. After work I'll repack the bearings & install the grease seals. Hopefully there will be enough time to mount the tires...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Installed the new valves & attempted to mount the tires myself. Got ONE bead over the rim. Took them to a local tire shop where they mounted them for free! Took them home, cleaned & repacked the bearings, then reinstalled the wheels/tires on the trailer.

For now, everything is ok, but I'll need to replace the bearings & races before too long. I wrote down the bearing part numbers so I could shop around.

After this, I plan on making some sort of a rear marker to keep people from pulling up & bumping the trailer. I was thinking of using a length of conduit, maybe 1/2", and bending it in a squared off loop so the ends fit into a pair of sleeves welded to the rear of the trailer. There would be a hole drilled into the sleeve & the pipe, into which a hitch pin would fasten the two together. I have the conduit, hitch pins & a welder...All I need now is time to do it!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The new tires mounted on freshly painted wheels...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Sunday, I bent a 9'6" length of 1/2 conduit I had lying around into a u shape. Drilled 2 holes in the trailer deck near the rear & drilled holes for 2 hitch pins to secure it.

Tonight, I bought an LED license plate light that has a red running light, a bright red brake light & a white backup light from Auto Zone for $30. Mounted it on the conduit, taped the wiring to it, then wired it up. So far, the running light & brake light works. I have to run another wire for the backup light. Maybe now the morons who follow me too closely will see me better & not nudge my trailer at a stop light!

Pics to follow...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Kind of a dark pic, but what better time than at night to test lights?


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

Looks good and I was thinking of getting my service body/truck paired blue. Seeing yours turned me the other way... Back to the idea of orange.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks...I think.


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## Ed_GT5000 (Sep 30, 2003)

Like those fenders! I will remember that!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I guess I could've bought steel fenders at TractorSupply or Farm & Fleet at $25(+/-), but for free...I'm all about free or cheap! May have a free set of wheels & tires for my 95 Silverado soon. just gotta know who/how to talk to people.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The other day, I removed the cable from the winch that's on my trailer. It was the plastic coated kind from a dog tie-out. The plastic melted & bound the cable in the spool and ruined it.

I had an old strap lying around, so I decided to use it. I attached a metal hook to one end using a grommet. I made a loop at the winch end also using a grommet. I removed the spool & after breaking off the rusted bolt, replaced the bolt with a new one. A little heat & a ball pein hammer loosened the stubborn bolt. Drilled a hole in the side of the spool to match a hole already on the opposite side of the spool, tapped it & added a bolt to attach the strap. Works good. 

Pics to follow soon...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Well, the stupid grommet broke that held the strap folded in the hook. I fed the strap through the hook & tied a knot. Simple, yet effective.

While driving at night towing the trailer, another dumba$$ rear-ended me. I didn't use my fancy taillight bar because I wasn't sure what size my delivery was going to be. Turns out I could've left it on. Anyhoo, I have to weld on a couple mounts for the light bar. I can use a couple 2" lengths of 1/2" conduit, slice them lengthwise to open them up & weld them to the back of the trailer. Then a couple holes drilled to accept a hitch pin to secure the conduit. Trust me, it'll work.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The stupid flimsy latch I used is not holding up well. Found a box of heavy duty latches a neighbor threw out. One will probably work.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

I see a lot of trailers at work, and many of them just have an upside down U of metal around the pole with a simple pin through the bottom. Lets you pull the pin and dump the trailer, but keeps it solid when you don't want it to tip. I looked back at your pictures, and you already have an angle iron on each side of the pole. Perhaps you could drill a hole through there and install a hitch pin with a spring loaded safety clip like this:


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Great idea on the hitch pin. Definitely one of the top contenders. 

I kind of like the idea of having a spring-loaded latch that activates when the deck lowers. Makes one-person loading a little easier. The flimsy gate latch is starting to wear out.

I use one like this on my truck hitch. Maybe one of these in a slightly smaller size.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Drilled a 1/2" hole in the trailer tongue to accept a 1/2" pin. Broke a 1/2"drill bit in the process.

Now I have to redo the spring loaded latch so it latches when the deck goes back down into position.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)




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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Time to replace the deck wood soon. Kind of disappointed the deck wood didn't last as long as I thought it would. Gonna need 4 pressure treated 2x12s, 8 ft long & a 2x3, 8 ft long. The fenders will need a coat of paint soon, but I was hoping to find a blue plastic 30 gallon barrel for free somewhere. Then I would never need to paint them.


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## catfishjohn (Jun 11, 2016)

I have a little 4X8 trailer and was hard to see to back . I welded 1 in. pipe up right but they viberated and broke off, so then I used a couple old CB antanas I had on back corners. They worked real well. can see them over the bed of truck, just drilled holes and taped and screwed them in.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

With the tool box & bed cover on, the trailer completely disappears from my rear view unless I'm hauling a tractor or something. I made the light bar for the back of the trailer, but it fit into the bed wood, which ogled out. I plan on welding a couple pipes to the rear or side of the trailer use as pockets for the light bar.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Time to replace the bed wood. This time I'll use treated lumber. I'll need four 8ft 2x12s & an 8ft 2x3..

I also want to reinforce the front & rear edges with some steel. I have 2 frame rails from an old Toro HXL that are about the right size.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

One of the leaf springs broke while doing a delivery. Went to Farm & Fleet for a pair of springs. $30/each & the new ones have 3 leaves instead of 2. Bought new hardened bolts & nuts for the spring eyes, some new nylon & rubber washers & new u-bolts. Had to do some grinding & filing to make everything fit & line up correctly & repacked all wheel bearings since the wheels had to come off anyway. One wheel bearing fell completely apart upon removal, so I replaced it. Going to need a new 30 gallon barrel to make a pair of new fenders. One is worn through completely. Some pics:


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## z445guy (Mar 10, 2017)

Tecumsehbriggs I know the trailer has sentimental value to you but the money you spent to repair the trailer wouldn't it of been better to buy a new or newer used trailer for the money you spent . I'm just saying bud


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The trailer was free. Not a lot of money spent. There's no sentimental value. If you feel like donating a brand new trailer, you're more than welcome.


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## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

you did a great job fixing her up


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

willys55 said:


> you did a great job fixing her up


Thank you. A little at a time as needed.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Picked up 4 2x12x8 pressure treated boards & a pressure treated 2x3x8 for the trailer deck today. Brought them home & set up a couple sawhorses so I could sand them down, prime & paint them. Turns out, I can't paint them unless they were kiln dried. These boards are pretty juicy. Anyhoo, one 2x12 has a bad crack on one end that I don't trust. Gonna return it tomorrow & get a better one. Also need to get 18 carriage bolts & nuts tomorrow. 

Stripped out the old wood & hardware.

















Got the boards mocked in place for fit.









I plan on using aome steel on the ends to protect the boards. I have a frame rail from a Toro lawn tractor that will fit on the rear with very little trimming. Can't find the other rail anywhere. Should be closeby. 

Looking to buy a pair of 1"axle hubs with bearings, with studs 4" on center. I have a pair of new 4 lug rims that came with the previous set of tires which are no longer with us. I would need to swap my current tires onto these rims to fit the new hubs, or wait til I need new tires. My current wheels have the hub & bearings integral to the rim. If I get a flat tire, I can't just pull 4 lugnuts & slap on the spare. With the new hubs installed & the tires changed over to 4 hole rims, I can. I even have a new/old/unused wheel & tire to use as a spare. 

Hope to sandblast tomorrow, treat the rust & prep boards for installation. Need to pick up some paint as well as a blue 30 gallon plastic drum to make a pair of fenders.

Pics will be added as work progresses.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Returned the defective 2x12 early this morning, then off to breakfast.









Forgot to buy the hardware. Tried to dry fit the boards, way too tight. Dug out the table saw & took a few swipes off the 2x3 & one 2x12 to make a little space.









Quick belt sanding on all edges & all is good. Cut down a light steel angle iron from a workbench light bracket & an old Toro lawn tractor frame rail to 48" & fit the angle iron to the front of the trailer & the c-channel to the rear.
















Ground the safety chain off the front of the trailer to clear the new angle iron. It will get welded on a little lower.









Ground off the 2 ramp hangers on the rear of the trailer so the c-channel would fit flush to the rear of the trailer. Had to trim about an inch off the 2x12 boards so everything would line up.

More tomorrow. Stay tuned...

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Today was r&d day for the trailer (research & development). Hit a couple stores for ideas. Not using carriage bolts to secure the wood to the trailer frame. Seems to shorten the life of the wood. I used treated lumber this time, too. The Toro frame rail I plan on using fits the rear of the trailer (2 3/4"), but not the front 3"). The front cross rail is square stock, the rear cross rail is an inverted u-channel. If I can find a 3" id c-channel tomorrow, I'll use it. If not, I have a section of thin angle iron that will work for now.

I was able to grind on the frame using a 36 grit flap wheel to loosen up the rust. A scraper took care of a couple tight spots. Blew off the frame with compressed air, then sloshed on a good amount of phosphoric acid to treat the rust. A quick rinse tomorrow & it's ready for masking & primer.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought some Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer & Krylon True Blue paint today. Pushed the trailer up on a set of ramps so I could get underneath easier. Dragged out the pressure washer & gave the trailer a thorough rinse. Cleaned a push mower I have sitting in front of the house for sale while I was at it. Plugged in the leaf blower & blow dried the trailer. A little sanding with 80 grit on a 1/4 sheet sander. Masked one reflector on the left side. The right one was cracked so I removed it (I have a bag full of them).









Removed the fenders & license plate so I could get behind them with the sander. Got the trailer mostly in primer. Gotta figure out whether I want to swap out the hitch for the new one I got on sale last year & if I want to remove the hand crank winch to install an electric one.








A little detail sanding tomorrow around the hitch, winch & taillights, mask off the taillight lenses & touch up the primer around those areas.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Sanded & masked around the taillights, laid down a couple coats of True Blue paint & painted the leaf springs gloss black.














Used most of 4 15oz cans of blue. Gonna need at least one more can.

Sanded & primed the front angle iron, sanded the rear c-channel & applied some phosphoric acid to the rusty spots. 

I was going to remove the taillights to sand behind them, but the studs were turning along with the nuts that mount them to the trailer. I masked the lenses & left them on. If I find it necessary, I can change them later on if/when they go on sale.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Took the rear c-channel over to my buddy's garage, along with the rear light bar I made out of 1/2 conduit & an led license plate light bar. Cut 2 pieces of 3/4" conduit 3 inches long, cut a slit the length of the pipe & welded them to the c-channel. Cut a couple inches off the light bar where it had gotten bent, slid it into the new mounts & drilled a hole in each mount & installed hitch pins.






























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## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

Buzz Box action shot


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Made a new, heavy duty latch today. Couldn't find a metal supplier that had heavier stock, wasn't ridiculously overpriced or was even open!

So, my buddy had the idea to make a square tube out of angle iron. For a plunger, he found a railroad spike.



































The handle was made from an old allen wrench. We reused the spring from the old latch because the spring was the first thing we replaced on the first latch. Note the difference in size of the 2 plungers. Tomorrow we grind off the old latch body, weld on the new one & widen the hole in the deck for the plunger to fit.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ground off the old latch body, then welded the new latch to a length of flat stock to shim it to the proper height on the trailer. Filed the opening for the plunger a little larger. After stitching the last weld on the latch, the spring gave up. Ran to Ace Hardware for a new spring & for the bolts to secure the wood deck. Had to cut the nicely welded end off the latch to replace the spring & the allen wrench broke off right after the weld. So...modification. Made a new end plate, but drilled & tapped some holes. Now the end plate is removable & the spring & plunger is servicable. Didn't get the latch welded on because of the repairs/mods, but tomorrow is another day.























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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Nice fabrication! You are doing some great work rehabing that trailer.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks Bill. All because I can!t find a decent latch...

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Welded the latch onto the trailer today, as well as the safety chain for the tilt bed. A coat of primer on the bare metal & blue on the primed areas. Painted the rear c-channel & the old fenders as well. Once I find a free blue 30 gallon plastic barrel, I'll make a new set of fenders. Everything drying overnight. Tomorrow we install the wood for the deck, drill some holes & install some hardware. Getting closer.





































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Sanded, primed & painted the front panel & license plate holder. Touched up along the tongue & sanded & painted the coupler, winch & chains. Assembled everything including the rear light bar. Just about done except for the wiring plug.





































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Also added 2 new reflectors toward the rear of the trailer.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Went through all the wiring. Replaced the 4 flat trailer plug. Respliced several connections at the taillights & replaced the rear 4 flat connector for the light bar. Created 2 new grounds for the taillights to the frame. All lights work nice & bright. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

It works, it works!









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## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

very nice


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thank you sir.

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## geoff l (Oct 10, 2017)

That's a nice bit of work there, you have made a good job of it.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thank you. Makes up for my lack of social skills...

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## RustyAllis (Nov 5, 2017)

Great job on the trailer


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

RustyAllis said:


> Great job on the trailer


Thank you. It was long overdue for a rebuild. The wood rotting made the decision for me.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got 2 new trailer hubs on the way. My trailer hubs are integral to the rims. The new hubs are for 4 lug rims, which I happn to have a pair from when I bought tires/rims from Harbor Freight years ago. I also have a complete spare I bought for $5 from a guy who gave me a free lawn tractor. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Trailer hubs arrived today. Brought my new/unused rims into the house to make sure they fit. They do.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Greased up the new bearings & installed the grease seals, removed one old wheel/hub assembly to find out the new hubs are 3/4" wider than the old ones. Now I have to machine 3/4" off the inner surface of the axle shaft on each side. Put the old wheel/hub back on for now. Always something...

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Run over by a long bed, crew cab 1 ton dually. Right taillight, wiring, tires flattened, frame bent. Waiting for insurance company to call back. So freaking bummed out right now.

































































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Waiting for insurance adjuster to come out...

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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Great work! I've bookmarked this thread. Neighbor has an old beat up version just like how you started your project. He's really up in age and mentioned that his old stuff behind the shed I could use on the farm. Well, this thread of yours has now given me some ideas along with my son who needs to do some work. LOL


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Insurance company is sending out a check for the repairs. It was generous & I should have some left over. Coulda bought a new trailer, but I like this one.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Straightened out the taillight bracket, removed the last bit of remaining taillight, scraped off the reflector adhesive tape residue & cut off the damaged wiring.






























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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Thinking about installing 6" oval LED taillights mounted in metal boxes with a 2" LED side marker. Would need a separate white light for the license plate light.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app


Ya, you gotta like those LED's! I've started using them when I need replacement lamps on my trailer. I've also installed them in my tail lights on my '50 Ford sedan.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thinking about installing 6" LED taillights mounted in metal boxes with a 2" LED side marker. Would need a separate white light for the license plate light, but that's easy enough. Also adding a 4 flat plug near the right taillight so I can plug in a light bar at the rear. Gotta keep the idiots from rear ending my trailer. Happens way too often.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ordered the taillights today. Should get them by Friday. Lots to do before they arrive.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Removed the wheel/hub assembly with the flat, unbeaded tire & took it to my workbench. Plugged in the air compressor & let it air up. Sanded around the rim bead. Wrapped a ratchet strap around the tire & added some air. Bead seated, just like that. Wouldn't do that at 11 pm at the gas station an hour away from home...Anyway, set the air pressure at 45 psi. Discovered the rim was bent on the inner side, so I banged it with a ball pein hammer. Close enough. Checked for leaks. None. Put it back on the trailer after measuring the spindle length. Only 4". Needs to be 4 7/8" for modern hubs to fit. Now I gotta buy a new axle. Found a trailer supply store, but it's not exactly close. Gonna call them tomorrow. I have a pair of new hubs, so I don't wanna buy an axle that includes the hubs. 

Then it rained on me.

Then, just like that, the rain stopped.

Removed the front & rear panels that hold the wood decking in place. Removed the wood planks & set them aside. Perfectly reusable. 

Took a few pics for reference & a couple more measurements. The coupler is getting replaced, which I already have. Bought one on clearance for $2.50. The rotten old hand crank winch is going, too. Might as well rewire while I'm at it. Going to buy an electric winch as soon as the insurance check clears. I plan on mounting it using a 2" receiver mounted under the front of the tilt deck. A winch mount will slip in & be held in with a clevis & hitch pin. I'll need to run a power wire to the rear of the truck. Easy enough. The cable will never touch the deck or the front plate that holds the wood in place, like the strap does now with the tongue-mounted winch.





































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought the winch, but passed on the receiver mount. 24" wide! Way too big for a little atv winch. I guess I'll have to make a winch mount from an old ball mount & some sheet steel. 
Rain has kept me from doing a whole lot lately.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Trailer lights arrived the other day. Nice heavy duty steel boxes that I will paint & bolt to the trailer after I weld in a new angle iron side rail.
















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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Nice! LEDs are great, bright defined and don't get hot.... not to mention, they should last a long time.


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## Dmfoste1 (Apr 22, 2019)

I did the same thing when I rebuild my trailer, LEDs are the way to go. I hated having a filiment burn out on washboard roads with no bulb to replace it. Somehow... Someone tore them off when they hung over too much..I didn't do it... honest ..... I like buckets that you picked up. I used a similar type light. Keep up the good work!


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Trailer lights arrived the other day. Nice heavy duty steel boxes that I will paint & bolt to the trailer after I weld in a new angle iron side rail.
> View attachment 45695
> View attachment 45697
> 
> ...


LOVE IT!

I did all the things above from my local H-F store too. Even the same 2500-lbs winch with the mounting plate. The mounting plate allows you to put this on the trailer or unbolt and place it on the front of the tractor !!! SWEET.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Trailer money all gone. Probably gonna scrap it & sell off the good parts. I'm done.

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A buddy offered me the use of his trailer for as long as I need it. I'll probably take him up on his offer.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

That's too bad about the trailer. Looked like you had the repairs well in hand. Good deal getting the loaner!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Replaced the taillights & wiring on a loaner trailer. Removed the rotten plywood tailgate. Touched up 2 spots where the red marker lights used to be. 

Sanded the sharp edges & surface of the steel taillight boxes, sprayed a coat of self-etching primer inside & out. Sprayed gloss black tractor paint on the inside of both boxes. Tomorrow the outsides get a coat or 3 of safety blue. 

My buddy found his set of magnetic towing lights, so I can have lights when I take the trailer over to his place to straighten the frame & attach the new taillights, although I may install them before I bring it over.

I guess I was fed up with the current state of my trailer, so I temporarily gave up on it. It'll get done eventually. Just not sure when.












































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

This is the loaner. Probably gonna replace the wood sides with 2x4 or 2x6 boards.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Set the tongue of my trailer up on the work table in my driveway so I could work on it without bending over. Used the air impact tool to removed the 2 bolts holding the crappy old hand crank winch to the tongue. Cut a groove in the 4 welds that also secured it to the tongue with a cutoff wheel. Sharpened my chisel & hacked at the 2 closer welds & pried the winch off. 

Knocked a couple kinks out of the frame. Going to cut a notch in the frame where it bent & weld it back together. My buddy says it's already weakened & will bend again, but I don't think so. I need it back on the road & I'm out of money (not my fault). 

Looking at the "good" taillight (the one that didn't get run over), it seems it was time for new ones anyway. I looked at the taillights boxes & will have to drill a new hole for the wiring, then plug the original hole. It's in the wrong place. I may replace the wiring as well, but the heavy duty extension cord I used is still good. We'll see. A little at a time.



















































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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Well, if you cut it, weld it and fish plate it, it should be better than new.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The cut will only be on the top half of the angle iron.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got out the blue paint & touched up the frame rails & crossmembers. Drilled some holes & mounted the new taillight boxes. Removed the boxes & touched up the newly drilled bolt holes, backs of the taillight boxes & outer frame rails. Cut off the rear taillight wiring & cut 2 new pieces of extension cord, long enough to leave a little extra just in case. Started getting a headache, so I cleaned up & had an iced tea. Getting closer. Need some lock washers. Waiting for my buddy to get back in town so we can cut & weld the frame, then finish wiring the taillights. Got a new coupler to weld on, too.















































































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought a couple plastic plugs & a couple rubber grommets at Lowes. Fit perfectly. Bought a box of lockwashers & mounted both boxes to the frame. Installed the rubber lens grommets & mounted the side marker lights. Ready for wiring. About to rain any minute.























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Taillights all wired up.






























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Extra 4-flat connector to plug in auxiliary lighting, such as a license plate light, light bar or revolving light.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Cut & rewelded the frame to straighten the bend. Had to bend the other side slightly as well. Repaired a couple other spots as needed. Replaced the coupler. Used a piece of the tongue that I cut off a couple years ago, welded in to the upper side of the tongue at the front & welded the coupler over it. Had to disconnect the tongue & flip it over to get the weld to flow. Cut off the skid under the front of the tongue. Scraped many driveways with it. I plan on bolting on a wheeled trailer jack that pivots alongside the tongue when hitched.
Installed the wood deck boards, new hardware for the end pieces that hold the boards down. Touched up anywhere on the frame & fenders that needed it. Painted the conduit that holds the auxiliary light bar in gloss white tractor paint. Ordered a new 8" light bar on ebay for under $2. Had an idea to epoxy a magnet to the bottom of a license plate light & use quick connectors for the wires. This way, I can remove the license plate & light if I have to haul sonething wide.
Still have to remove & check a flat tire. Ordered a pair of new Carlisle 6 ply tires on ebay just in case. Still planning on replacing the axle so I can use my new 4 lug hubs.











































































































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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Like it never happened. 

Nice job TB.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Still have to mount the new winch, replace a reflector, make new fenders, etc...

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Had to rob one of the new hubs of the bearings & grease seal. The old bearings in the right wheel were toast. Cleaned the wheel/hub & installed the bearings so I could take the trailer to the trailer supply shop an hour away. I let them measure everything to be sure they had the right axle. I'm on a mission here. Anyhoo, they welded the spring mounts at 47" on center to match my trailer. Went home with a new axle, 2 new hubs installed with bearings packed, new u-bolts, pads & lug nuts for $125. Saved a few bucks by going there & paying cash instead of going thru ebay.

Put the trailer away til the new tires arrive. A pair of new tires arrived today, but they were 4 ply load range B, instead of the 6 ply load range C I actually ordered. I even asked them before I paid if they were 6 ply. They said yes. Not what I received. Sent a message thru ebay. Gotta wait til Monday for a response. Today is Saturday.

Tomorrow I may paint the axle blue to match the trailer, but I should probably wait to make sure it fits first.





















View attachment 47039









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Going back & forth with this ebay seller. They say they sent a return label to the email address I sent them. I sent the email a 4th time in all caps in case they don't understand. I also sent them my wife's email so they could try that. Taking too damn long. I ordered 6 ply tires, just send me 6 ply tires!

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Had to open a return request thru ebay. Found their address & phone number online. Called & left a message. They were supposed to call me back after lunch. I hate people who play games. I'm going for a refund. Gotta wait 10 more days to open a dispute. Can't use the tires they sent. Don't want them to have a penny of my money. They have earned a negative feedback for this. Wth? Lousy work ethic. Lazy? Stupid? Deceitful? Little of each?

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

They finally sent a return label to my wife's email after claiming to send it several times. Dropped the tires off at a FedEx pickup/dropiff facility. 
Found a pair of new tires on craigslist. Bought them right away. $20 for 2 brand new Carlisle 4.80-8 load range c, 6 ply tires. 
Ebay seller finally sent out the correct tires, which arrived today. Correct brand, size, type. Closed the return request thru ebay & left them a neutral feedback. 
Here's what I think happened:
Ebay seller sells, but does not stock every tire on its listings. They are in West Virginia. Carlisle is in Ohio. I think they drop-ship what they don't have in stock & Carlisle sent out the wrong tires. Seller avoided me til they could get the correct tires drop-shipped from Carlisle. As soon as I opened the return request, they called Carlisle & got them to ship out the right ones. 
The first 2 pics are the tires I bought locally. The last 2 are the ebay tires. Now I'm tire rich.






























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ebay seller asked me to revise my feedback today, citing the fact that they "resolved the issue & the customer now has the correct tires". They're lucky, I gave them a neutral, not a negative. Their customer service sucked, they lied, shuffled their feet, didn't return my phone call. If I DO revise my feedback, I would make it a negative. Be happy all you got was a neutral. I was not at fault here. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Installed the 2 new tires I bought locally on a pair of new rims I saved from a pair of Harbor Freight tires I bought when I first got the trailer. The local tires are likely a little older than the ebay tires, which is the reason for my decision. I may let the tires on the old axle go with the axle when I offer it up for sale. I will still have 2 brand new tires & a new/old tire on a 4 hole rim to use as spares/backup tires. Next step: swap out axle & wheels.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

LED light bar arrived today from the slow boat from China. The rubber was melted & the light was damaged. Looks like the outside of the shipping envelope absorbed some heat. Most of the label is black. Sent a message to the seller. I gotta stop buying on ebay.























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ebay seller apologized for damage, offered me a refund. I accepted. Gotta check paypal tomorrow. 

Pulled out the new u-bolts & tie plates, cleaned them with brake clean & painted everything blue to match the trailer. Pulled the trailer out & set all 4 corners on jack stands. Unbolted the old u-bolts & removed the old axle assembly. Bolted up the new axle & installed the new wheels & tires. Took it around the block to make sure it pulls straight. Backed it into its spot. Gave back the borrowed trailer last night. My buddy needed it to pick up a free Cub Cadet. 

Found a pair of 8"rims, 4 holes, lying around in the 65 Chevy truck cab in my driveway. I thought one had a new tire on one of them, but I guess I was mistaken. Maybe I have another one somewhere. I'll have to look around. Anyhoo, one rim needs to be sandblasted & painted. I still have a new pair of tires to go on these rims. I may sell the old trailer axle with the used tires on it. One is very worn, the other is kinda worn.

































































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Removed the old tires from the rims & sandblasted the entire rusty one. The other was only rusty on the inside. Next step is to sand, prime & paint both rims with gloss white tractor & implement paint. I may use POR15 on the inside.























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Checked on the wheels after about 4 days. All residual rust gone after using phosphoric acid. Wiped both wheels down with brake cleaner & sprayed rusty metal primer on the inside & front surfaces. Straightened out a couple dents, too. 

I'm in no hurry to get these painted. Got 2 new tires on 2 new wheels already on the trailer. Once these wheels get painted, they get new valve stems, then new tires.






























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Painted the front & inner surfaces with Valspar gloss white tractor & implement paint. Tomorrow, the backsides get a couple coats.









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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

pogobill said:


> Don't cut the tongue too short or it will be a bugger to back up with it.


Longer tongue the better, but not tooo long. Helps backing up and when using the mirrors, better to see if the trailer jack-knifes in reverse. Plus doesn't hit the bumper sooner. Down side is the amount of weight the longer tongue can deal with.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

bmaverick said:


> Longer tongue the better, but not tooo long. Helps backing up and when using the mirrors, better to see if the trailer jack-knifes in reverse. Plus doesn't hit the bumper sooner. Down side is the amount of weight the longer tongue can deal with.


That was 7 years ago...

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Mounted the 2nd set of new tires on the freshly painted wheels, along with new high pressure valves. Removed the 1st set of new tires/wheels that were on the trailer & installed new high pressure valves in those, too. Now all 4 new wheels/tires have high pressure tire valves & I don't have to lose sleep at night worrying about blowing out a valve while transporting an expensive lawn tractor.
















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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Glad you made this step-by-step thread on your trailer. I've just acquired one very similar to yours. Thus, your thread is very useful to glean from. 

Noticed you are a few counties away from me. I'm at Beloit-WI.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

bmaverick said:


> Glad you made this step-by-step thread on your trailer. I've just acquired one very similar to yours. Thus, your thread is very useful to glean from.
> 
> Noticed you are a few counties away from me. I'm at Beloit-WI.


Hey thanks. 

You're quite a few miles north of me. Used to spend some time in Rockford, Illinois & South Beloit in my late teens, early 20s. Down by I-88 near Naperville now.

Good to see others who like a challenge. Oh sure, ANYONE can go out & buy one (if they have the money). I rebuilt my trailer after the accident for about $350. I coulda bought a REALLY nice new trailer with the insurance money I received. Still haven't mounted the winch yet. That'll be added soon...

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Found my bag of reflectors a couple days ago. Went out & cleaned the area on the right rear of the trailer where the reflector got unceremoniously torn asunder during the accident. Applied a new reflector.









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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Glad the trailer is looking good again. I'm waiting till Spring to make any progress on mine. It's been ground/sanded and primed. Now its in storage till Springtime.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Trailer has gotten a lot of use this year. Transported appliances, furniture, lawn tractors, building materials, etc. Paint is fading a little. Great little trailer.

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