# m5700 3pt wont lift



## twynkoop102 (Oct 24, 2021)

my 3pt was up, but wouldnt move till i turned the flow control knob under the seat; arms went down but wont go back up, no matter what i do! ??


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

You need to remove the Needle valve in the 3 point lift casting and clean it. You have a blockage in it. Pull the knob under the seat (some screw on, some are roll pinned and some are a friction fit with an interlocking tab on the shaft), I have no idea what you have. If it's a cab model you need to pull the access plate (below the seat) to access the shaft and needle valve.

When was the last time you changed hydraulic fluid and filters and did you use Kubota filters or something else and did you use Kubota fluid (UDT or SUDT) or did you use some generic junk? Kubota's are very touchy with fluid types and you must use a compatible fluid that meets or exceeds the Kubota spec. I use either Rotella Hydraulic fluid or Chevron All Weather Synthetic THC. Neither are cheap or Kubota SUDT, whatever I have on hand. I always use Kubota filters, especially on the hydraulic side because the filters are under pressure.

When you remove the valve, some fluid (not much) will come out. The lift arm fluid goes through the valve all the time.


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## twynkoop102 (Oct 24, 2021)

SidecarFlip said:


> You need to remove the Needle valve in the 3 point lift casting and clean it. You have a blockage in it. Pull the knob under the seat (some screw on, some are roll pinned and some are a friction fit with an interlocking tab on the shaft), I have no idea what you have. If it's a cab model you need to pull the access plate (below the seat) to access the shaft and needle valve.
> 
> When was the last time you changed hydraulic fluid and filters and did you use Kubota filters or something else and did you use Kubota fluid (UDT or SUDT) or did you use some generic junk? Kubota's are very touchy with fluid types and you must use a compatible fluid that meets or exceeds the Kubota spec. I use either Rotella Hydraulic fluid or Chevron All Weather Synthetic THC. Neither are cheap or Kubota SUDT, whatever I have on hand. I always use Kubota filters, especially on the hydraulic side because the filters are under pressure.
> 
> When you remove the valve, some fluid (not much) will come out. The lift arm fluid goes through the valve all the time.





SidecarFlip said:


> You need to remove the Needle valve in the 3 point lift casting and clean it. You have a blockage in it. Pull the knob under the seat (some screw on, some are roll pinned and some are a friction fit with an interlocking tab on the shaft), I have no idea what you have. If it's a cab model you need to pull the access plate (below the seat) to access the shaft and needle valve.
> 
> When was the last time you changed hydraulic fluid and filters and did you use Kubota filters or something else and did you use Kubota fluid (UDT or SUDT) or did you use some generic junk? Kubota's are very touchy with fluid types and you must use a compatible fluid that meets or exceeds the Kubota spec. I use either Rotella Hydraulic fluid or Chevron All Weather Synthetic THC. Neither are cheap or Kubota SUDT, whatever I have on hand. I always use Kubota filters, especially on the hydraulic side because the filters are under pressure.
> 
> When you remove the valve, some fluid (not much) will come out. The lift arm fluid goes through the valve all the time.


Well, i just got it from a guy who just had a full fluid and filter change done at a dealer(kubota) , and i thought he said the 3pt was acting up sporadically, but im not positive. However, it has'nt worked since then.So you have to take the valve body off to get the needle out? The knob screws out and stops....
thank you!


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## twynkoop102 (Oct 24, 2021)

twynkoop102 said:


> Well, i just got it from a guy who just had a full fluid and filter change done at a dealer(kubota) , and i thought he said the 3pt was acting up sporadically, but im not positive. However, it has'nt worked since then.So you have to take the valve body off to get the needle out? The knob screws out and stops....
> thank you!


That was not it, i took the cylinder end cap/valve body off; its clean as a whistle and functions as it should blowing air through it.
I am inclined to think theres a linkage problem internally. Is there any thing to be seen by taking the lever assembly off the right side of the piston housing/top cover?


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

Well let's see if it will let me post a link to a different forum,
Three point hitch draft control M4700
This may be of help to you.
The good parts start midway thru and the last third.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Does it have position control or does it have draft control? Draft control will be 2 levers position control will be one. I have to ask, did he give you a receipt for the service done? Reason I ask is, talk is cheap. It's hard to tell if the fluid was changed because it's clear, but the filters will give it away. Dirty filter bodies mean it wasn't changed, clean filter body's mean it was. I always put the date and hours on my filters with a paint marker for future reference.

If it has draft control (2 levers) the draft control linkage needs to be set correctly or the lift arms won't raise and the procedure for setting it is in the Workshop manual and the owners manual. I presume you have at least the owners manual? The WSM (Workshop Manual is downloadable on the net. I believe www.kubotabooks.com has it.

The speed control for the arms is at the very front of the casting, no need to take anything apart other than pulling the needle valve, which I presume you did?????

Both the draft and position controls act on external hydraulic valves mounted on the gearcase.


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## twynkoop102 (Oct 24, 2021)

SidecarFlip said:


> Does it have position control or does it have draft control? Draft control will be 2 levers position control will be one. I have to ask, did he give you a receipt for the service done? Reason I ask is, talk is cheap. It's hard to tell if the fluid was changed because it's clear, but the filters will give it away. Dirty filter bodies mean it wasn't changed, clean filter body's mean it was. I always put the date and hours on my filters with a paint marker for future reference.
> 
> If it has draft control (2 levers) the draft control linkage needs to be set correctly or the lift arms won't raise and the procedure for setting it is in the Workshop manual and the owners manual. I presume you have at least the owners manual? The WSM (Workshop Manual is downloadable on the net. I believe www.kubotabooks.com has it.
> 
> ...


It has draft control(2 levers). I'm pretty sure oil & filters were changed as they claimed. I took the end cap casting off that the flow control rod screws into and looked at everything; it was clean & worked like it should blowing air through it. 
Both my levers and the draft and position sensing shafts go directly into the topcover, there is nothing mounted externally....


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

But there is.... The draft control is actuated by a stop block fastened to the upper part of the outer PTO housing (just under the upper link mount (link mount is on a pivot shaft (and it requires periodic greasing and should have a zerk fitting on it). I has to pivot and contact the stop block or the lower arms won't lift. On my M's, the spec for the clearance between the stop block and the upper link pivot is 1/16-1/8 inch. That is in the WSM, not sure about the owners manual and you want the draft lever all the way forward in the quadrant when not using ground engaging implements. The farther back the lever is, the more sensitive the draft linkage becomes. There should also be a threaded turnbuckle on the linkage to adjust the freeplay in the linkage. if the stop block is out of spec when the top link is removed, you have to shim the stop block to get the correct clearance. Just did mine about 6 months ago. I don't have many ground engaging implements so I don't use the draft linkage except rarely.

In reality, you should not be 'blowing compressed air. through the passages. You can dislodge internal O rings. I never use compressed air on any of that stuff.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

Is this M5700 equipped with a frt end loader or rear scv's? If so ar all these controls in neutral positions? Sounds as if possibly a relief valve valve isn't seating as designed


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## twynkoop102 (Oct 24, 2021)

i will look into the top link holder. That seems like the the most likely culprit if theres nothing wrong internally .There is no loader, and the 2 remote levers are in neutral.
thanks again for now!!


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Again....You need to log on to Kubotabooks.com and download the appropriate shop manual (WSM) for your unit. The WSM will explain in detail, all the settings and clearances for the draft control (and everything else as well) and the downloads are free. Where I got the WSM for my M9's. I'm cheap and not about to pay over 100 bucks for a hard copy.


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## twynkoop102 (Oct 24, 2021)

SidecarFlip said:


> Again....You need to log on to Kubotabooks.com and download the appropriate shop manual (WSM) for your unit. The WSM will explain in detail, all the settings and clearances for the draft control (and everything else as well) and the downloads are free. Where I got the WSM for my M9's. I'm cheap and not about to pay over 100 bucks for a hard copy.


im headed to the dealer to get some o-rings and borrow his books for now. The top link anchor IS stuck, by the way!


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Probably the owner you bought it from never greased it. it has to move to actuate the linkage. there should be a zerk fitting on one end. If he didn't bother to grease it, I wonder what else he didn't bother to do. Why I questioned the fluid change and filter renewal. How about the engine oil and oil filter and the air filter and inner filter?

I've learned from experience that any time someone sells a piece of used equipment, the maintenance goes to hell. Why maintain something if you plan on selling it. I don't play that way but I'm an exception, not the norm.

Just like my round bailer I'm trading in on a new one. it will be cleaned of hay, chains oiled and fittings greased and ready to bail with net and twine installed before it goes to the dealer.. Guess that is why I get top buck anytime I trade in equipment and upgrade.

Sold my square bailer (NH 575) on Tractor House in 2 days. First guy came to look at it and bought it on the spot and paid cash. he said it looks new, I said it's maintained and kept in the barn when not in use. He took it to his farm and immediately started bailing with it, ready to bail, like all my stuff is ready to work, hell, I even put in 6 balls of twine and threaded it for him.


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## twynkoop102 (Oct 24, 2021)

At last!!! I finally pulled the top cover and one of the dogbones (spool drive levers in the parts diagrams) was laying in the differential housing. Stuck it back together, and son of a gun, it works!!! I want to thank you for all your help and if you ever have a question on a white, oliver or minneapolis moline, let me know, i worked on them for 30 years!!
Thanks again!!


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Ever pull the hex plug?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

twynkoop102 said:


> At last!!! I finally pulled the top cover and one of the dogbones (spool drive levers in the parts diagrams) was laying in the differential housing. Stuck it back together, and son of a gun, it works!!! I want to thank you for all your help and if you ever have a question on a white, oliver or minneapolis moline, let me know, i worked on them for 30 years!!
> Thanks again!!


Just what spool drive lever would that be?


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