# 2500 Hydraulic Issues



## 2500fan (Mar 23, 2013)

Hi,
So glad I found this site. First time forum member of any sort. I have a IH 2500B I bought 2 years ago. (3rd one in the shed, I love 'em) The problem is I have steel filings in the tranny and it clogs up the hydraulic filter and my 3pt/power steering stop working. The tractor was a bit of a mess when I got it but it ran/runs like a clock. It had a broom on the front powered by a pto pump which I have removed and I put the 3pt arms back on it. Anyway, The hydraulics work fine it seems until the filter/screen plug up. I have changed fluid and filter but it would only solve the problem temporarily. Turning off the tractor and restarting also gives me one or two more chance to lift the arms. I have since pulled the tranny covers off expecting to find a bad bearing or gear but I can find nothing wrong internally except a fine grey filings in the bottom. It appears that the top covers haven't been off before except the side cover for access to the pto clutches has been removed. The pto clutches which are worn and I will replace them. Everyone I have talked to said the problem should be very evident but it isn't. Bearings and gears all look like they are in very good shape. I don't want to clean out the pasty filings, flush everything and put it back together without actually fixing anything, but I'm at a loss. I'm not sure if these may be remnants of some earlier service since the 3pt was never used before. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks


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## cyrush (Apr 20, 2010)

As its iron type material i would suspect the brakes!!, you need to remove the axle housings and inspect the brake components, sounds like the thin composite linings of the discs have worn out so the clamping plate and ring will be wearing metal to metal !!


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## 2500fan (Mar 23, 2013)

Thanks cyrush. What you're saying would make sense. I will work on removing the housings hopefully this week after work. With any luck, I will find brake discs with no linings. I will follow up.


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## 2500fan (Mar 23, 2013)

Took the axle housings off this week and you were correct. One of the brake plates was wearing against the brake disc (the brake disc had no lining left at all. It almost looks like the brake piston stuck. It's funny that I couldn't hear it because it was really wore. the o-rings on the piston look fine. 
Can I test that piston somehow to make sure it's working freely once I clean everything up and before I put it back together?


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## cyrush (Apr 20, 2010)

As you are that far in you must replace the piston o rings and test the brakes for leakage!!

Do you have a service manual?? If you cant afford a full manual i can sell you a section covering brakes at reduced cost ??

Also the brakes can be difficult to bleed but easy to fix if you know how.

Is there much metallic sludge in the tranny ?? If so it needs a good flush out, after rebuild the suggestion is a 50 50 mix of tranny oil and diesel for a couple of hours, then a complete oil and filter change, new oil in and filter changes at 10 then 50 then 200 hrs.

If you don't get that material out it will keep coming back to bite you in the ass !!!

Also forgot to mention!! You need to remove the round cover over pto clutch on r/hand side and find the lube transfer pump suction screen (located below and in front of the PTO clutch pack) it will be well sludged up and needing a good clean !!


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## 2500fan (Mar 23, 2013)

I have pulled the side cover off and removed the pto clutch, so I was able to clean the screen for the lube pump really well along with most everything else inside there. 
The new o-ring set comes with 3 for each side. I can only find homes for 2 of them. Part# 343932 R1 (new# 238-6274) goes on the brake piston. Part# 21472 R1 goes on the carrier. My breakdown also shows a Part# 289506 R1 (new# 14482980) but I'm not sure where that one would go. It's a thicker oring and slightly smaller in diameter than the others. Do you know what it's for?
I have an IH Parts Manual and an I&T manual, but not the IH full service manual. I would be interested in at least getting the portion to get me through the brakes. You said it tells me how to test the brakes for leakage or hopefully some other test to make sure everything is working correctly before I completely reassemble it. 
How much would it be for the brakes portion?


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## cyrush (Apr 20, 2010)

Yes the fat ring, often get left out in error!!!

It is to seal the back of the differential bearing carrier plate, against the shim pack. You need to loosen the 4 bolts (from memory) and pull the diff bearing carrier out, be careful as there is a shim pack behind there and you don't want to crumple them, fit new ring in groove and bolt up again, torquing the bolts. There should be a diagram in your parts listing!!

When u refit the pistons grease the seals with petroleum jelly (vaseline) and push in steadily, its very easy to cut a seal and when u test you will have a leak!!

Regarding manuals, send me your e mail address and i can e mail you the options!!!


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## 2500fan (Mar 23, 2013)

Will I have to replace the oring behind the carrier plate because I haven't removed it yet? Or since I have it this far it's just good to do it?
In regards to the manuals my email address is [email protected]


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## cyrush (Apr 20, 2010)

In theory as its a static joint the seal should be good but good service practice dictataes it is better to change it as having to go back in if there is a leak and a pain in the wallett especially when paying dealer shop time!!

Will send manual options later toda y!!


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## 2500fan (Mar 23, 2013)

cyrush
I haven't gotten an email regarding the service manual information. Just wondering if there was a problem?


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## cyrush (Apr 20, 2010)

Have replied to your PM !!!


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