# Bolens 1050 Transmission



## bfoster

Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and the new owner of a Bolens 1050. I'm trying to get familiar with the tractor and understand a few things about the transmission and drive line of this tractor, and so have a few questions.

I am aware of the locking differential nut in the left rear hub and the locking pin in the right hub. both are seized, and I am working on getting the free wheeling pin out and will be trying again to get the drive cone to back out from the left wheel hub so I can get the differential to unlock. It currently is locked up.

With the above knowledge I am still a little concerned about the transmission, since I can push the machine around on flat level ground, with difficulty if I rock it a bit to get it rolling. This is only if the transmission is in neutral. But everything I have read is that with the free wheeling lock pin installed I should not be able to roll the machine. Can anyone clarify why exactly if the transmission is in neutral? 

The diff is locked up and when I roll the machine the brake disc on the end of the worm gear shaft out the front of the transmission turns, ie: so the axle of course is turning the worm wheel and worm shaft. I keep hearing I need to check axle end play, and will, but I fail to see how it has to do with the rolling of the machine if the differential is locked up as is?

Any help is appreciated and this is a great resource from what I've been able to see so far.

Oh, the engine seems to work just fine and I can drive it around and if I stop on a hill in neutral without the brake on or with just the clutch depressed it will roll as well. the same as me pushing the machine in neutral really.

Thanks,

Bill


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## jhngardner367

The free wheeling pin actually has 2 positions. free,and locked.
It's held in each position with the cotter pin,or hair clip pin.
DON'T try tapping on it, to free it up!
If you must tap it,use a brass hammer,and light taps.
It could break the ear off the axle housing,with a regular hammer.
Instead,soak it with PB BLASTER,and with large pliers,try to spin it.
When mine was frozen, I welded a bar across the pin head,and tapped on it while spraying it with PB BLASTER.
Normally,you can't push the tractor,unless the pin is in free wheel position .


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## bfoster

You are right, there are two positions for the locking pin. I did tap it, but will definitely back off on that in future, given the warning. Ill soak the PB to it and see what happens.

So I've got something going on since I can push the tractor then? I'll get the locking pin out and the differential lock on the left free'd up as well so I can verify the differential is working before going any further.

Thanks for the help.


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## jhngardner367

If the differential lock is stuck,spray it ,also,and use light taps ,with a brass,or aluminum hammer,to see if it moves.
You can tap(lightly) on the left shaft end,with the same type of hammer.
Dead blow hammers work,as well.
It only needs to move a few hundredths of an inch.


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## bfoster

Ok, so I was able to remove the left wheel hub, I had to just pull it off which brought the shift key, collar, key and cone all seized in the hub. But now it'll be easier to soak with PB and remove the works, I'll just replace the infer and outer seals at the same time since the outer seal was leaking pretty bad anyway. And idea what the part numbers are for these deals?

Boy the large seal in the face of the transmission case is really hard to remove, any tips on how to remove that deal with marring up the seating surface or the axle shaft in the process?

So now for the really bad news. Once I removed the left hub I found why I could hear a crunching sound when I tried to do an axle end play adjustment. The outer race plate for the thrust bearing was in a few pieces. Does anyone have an idea where I can source a replacement? Or do I need to find a transmission to steal a part from???


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## jhngardner367

You may be able to match numbers from seals,and bearings at tractor suppliers,or bearing/seal manufacturers .
If you go to samsbolens.com,they can help.


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## bfoster

That samsbolens.com is the real deal! Thank you for the reference.

Bill


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## bfoster

I'm still stuck on how to remove the cone/collar from the left rear hub. I've soaked it for days with PB blaster on end as in the picture above. then from the other end using a brass rod and hammer have tapped and hit all around the lip of the washer that's behind the collar/cone and no luck. I have asked a local machine shop and he said he'd have to make a tool to do it since he doesn't happen to have the right tool on hand. he suggested heating the collar/cone as hot as I can and then let them rest and try again. Since the oil seal is already destroyed I'm thinking this might be worth a try?

or should I try making up a puller with a threaded rod and cut down washer to see if I can draw out the cone/collar?

Bill


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## jhngardner367

Heat it,but not too hot.
When it makes a drop of water sizzle,Tap on the hub,where it goes through the cone,with a brass drift.


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## bfoster

Finally managed to remove the cone and collar from the left hub and was then able to remove the right hub from the axle and the locking pin from that hub. I ended up making a home made puller with bolt/washers for the cone and collar in the left hub. it took a lot of pressure and PB to get that out. the right hub took a lot of PB and a 3 jaw puller and a lot of pressure, tapping. everything is pretty corroded, in particular the axle in way of the right hub and its contact surfaces. I have had to emery cloth, wet sand with 1000-600 grit these surfaces to be allow for reinstallation. 

Seem the right hub with the split pin drift that is used to prevent the loss of the locking pin is maybe not the best design. its allowed a lot of moisture into the hollow section of the right hub which has then ensured the contact surfaces have corroded, pitted and expanded. I plan on packing this cavity with axle grease and might then put a brass tapered pin in the hole for future or a zerk fitting?


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## bfoster

jhngardner 367,

Thanks for the help with this one. Rear end is back together, with the new seals and bearing. End play adjustment taken up has the left seal wearing on a new location for the hub so ill have to see how that works out. still, its now got the locking differential working properly and all seems as it should be.


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## jhngardner367

Great news! 
Anxious to see some Pics of it,running !


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## bfoster

No pictures running yet, but have these of the work I did to fit a free plow. it needed cracks welded and a lifting bar made up and then I had to make a brace to stiffen up the lift so I could get the blade 5" off the ground.


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## bfoster

Here are a few pictures from when I picked it up from the town dump, before it ran.


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## jhngardner367

Yup!
Mine was a bit worse-looking,when I got it,after sittig in the snow-drifts,and mud,for 6 years,or so..........but,it was free,so I took it.
Is that the original wisconsin engine,or a Briggs?
Kohler K 301,or 321 engines work on them too! 
Mine had the K-301 12hp.........until it lost a rod.


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## bfoster

It's the original Wisconsin TR-10D, since she is a '66.

It seems to have plenty of compression, I checked it to I think 100 to 110 psi. I had to fix a wire and change the plug, clean the carb but normal stuff but then it fired right up. I need to get an air intake manifold/elbow, I am currently using some PVC and a Briggs air filter.

I'd like to stick with the Wisconsin for now. if it goes on me I will repower assuming the gear/transmission holds up.

Bill


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## jhngardner367

I use mine for plowing garden,pushing snow/dirt,etc.
The deck was junk,so I'm not worried about it being all original.
YOURS,however,is a good candidate for a classic restoration/show tractor !


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## bfoster

Here she is after some progress. The new vertical muffler/stack has helped with noise a bit and the plow is well fitted up now and painted up for the season ahead.


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## jhngardner367

Looks GREAT !


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