# 5205 - Broke MFWD



## threadender (Apr 25, 2007)

I have a 2006 5205 with MFWD, and was digging out a stump with the front end loader (as I have done many times in the past) and tried pushing the stump at the same time. I think I heard a small "tink", and the front drive stopped working. Is there a shear pin or something that broke? 

The tractor appears to function normally, and doesn't make any weird sounds, but until I get it repaired, is it safe to continue using it? Is this drive system fragile? I had a look at the takeoff to the front axle, and it appears that the bolts had been removed before because the paint was removed at the hexes of the bolt. I am the original owner of the tractor.


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## poonstang90lx (Mar 8, 2007)

To be honest I really don't know, I do not have any experience with any of Deere's smaller tractors , but I am very good friends with one of the service tech's at the dealer that I deal with. I will run the question by him tomorrow .


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Welcome to Tractor Forum threadender! Sorry to hear about your bad luck on such a new machine. That is a tough call. There are a number of links in the power train that could cause this. An axle, at the steering nuckles, could even be in the transmission. If the take-off to the front axle shows signs of being taken apart, I would suggest calling your dealer about this and ask them what if anything was done to the tractor and why? Is the tractor still under warranty? To my knowledge, the 4WD is not a weak point on these tractors. 

Does the 4WD lever still have full range of motion as well as feel like it is engaging in the transmission? Just wanted to eliminate the possibility of the engage lever slipping out of position. 

Was the 4WD engaged all during the stump digging operation?


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## threadender (Apr 25, 2007)

Thanks for the welcome and replies guys!

Since the tractor still works fine with just rear wheel drive (no noises or clunking), I assume it isn't a broken axle/driveshaft or something like that.

The 4 wheel drive engagement lever does not feel like it is engaging anything, but it felt that way from new. I always leave the tractor in 4WD anyways as it does everything better (for me at least) that way.

The tractor is under warranty, but needs to be trucked to the dealer to be repaired, as I am a two hour drive from the nearest dealer.

I am also having another issue repaired at the same time. The bucket tilt down function on the joystick causes the engine to work harder than normal, plus the joystick has a poor feel to it. It sometimes hesitates to do what I ask of it. This issue has been with the tractor since new.

This tractor has good power (56 hp version), and I was fairly happy with it until the 4WD stopped working. Now I am starting to wonder...

In addition to the FEL, I also have a Rotomec post hole auger (PHD 300), a back blade, and a Bearcat chipper/shredder.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Leaving the tractor in 4WD all the time may be a contributing cause. The owner's manual states that 4WD should only be engaged when and only if needed. The issue with leaving it in 4WD all the time is that the 4WD drive train will bind up especially when making sharp turns. Over time this binding of the power train is very hard on in with any make or brand tractor. In this case with a tractor with R-1 or R-4 tires, they dig in tough and do not slip easily like they do on a truck 4WD with less tractive tires. Even then, the drive train on a 4WD truck will bind up too but not as forcefully. 

John Deere 5205 4WD Use Warning 

I use 4WD on my 4410 only when I need it and only just long enough to where I don't need it any longer and then turn it off.


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## threadender (Apr 25, 2007)

That is a valid point Chief. However, my property is on a flood plain, and my soil is mostly sand, so I am never driving on hard surfaces which may cause binding. I just noticed that the tractor turned much better in 4wd (in 2wd it seems to understeer in the sandy soil), plus I am doing mostly loader type work now as I am clearing and levelling land to plant an orchard. With the way my land is (after a flood four years ago), I would get stuck alot if I left it in 2wd.
Once I get it levelled out , I will probably leave the tractor in 2wd, as I noticed the high traction tires really chew up the lawn when cornering.


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## threadender (Apr 25, 2007)

My tractor was trucked back to the dealer, and the first thing they found was a twisted drive shaft. Apparently it twisted around 3 times! I haven't heard about any new findings but will call them back tomorrow.
As I mentioned earlier, I had the loader under the root ball of a tree I was trying to pry out of the ground. I had a fair bit of lift on it (enough to lighten the rear tires so they had little traction). When I let the clutch out, all the torque went to the front tires, which had a fair bit of traction with the weight of the tractor and tree, and received a broken front drive shaft for my efforts.
Is the drive shaft the weak point, or was I using the tractor for something it wasn't designed for? I gather that the drive shaft is the torque limiting device to prevent damage to the front axle or transmission. I have seen torque limiting devices for sale for transport trucks, etc to prevent such occurances (twisted drive shafts). I'm surprised there isn't a shear bolt or similar.
I guess I should have purchased a bigger, sturdier tractor to clear my land..


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I think you may be asking more of your 5205 than it was designed for. If you plan to be continuing with more of this type of use you may want to look at other ways to remove the stumps such as renting a backhoe or a dozer. 

The next size up tractor which you may want to consider which is for the most part a larger and much heavy duty version of your 5205 is the John Deere 6403 and 6603. 

These tractors are pretty much an updated basic version of the tried and true John Deere 4020. Probably the best and most popular tractor John Deere ever built as well as extremely popular with farmers and ranchers alike. 

Perhaps you may be able to work a deal and trade up to a new 6603 or a used or rental return 6403 or 6603. My suspicion is that after you recover from the sticker shock you may want to find anyother way to remove those stumps. The 6603 is a super machine and you won't see many for sale used.


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## usnretired1997 (Aug 17, 2012)

Well, I can say, been there, done that and now have another darn t-shirt to hang on the wall.

I have a 2003 6403 that I definitely push too hard. In fact, I was helping Ha! the roofers lift pallets of shingles to the roof and I tilted forward and left. I thought I was going over with a 1,000 worth of shingles dangling ten feet in the air. I remember getting on the clutch fast, but nothing major. Today, just pushing a bit of muddy debris. I have done and I AM NOT BOASTING CAUSE IT WAS STUIPD, too much for even this tractor. I still here the same thing from my wife... "Remember, it's a TRACTOR not a BULLDOZER." She is right. 

I was pushing some dirt and debris this morning and BANG! TINK TINK tink tink, and so on. I got off and the axle was twisted like a barber pole completely severed. 

619.00 from the dealer. I have to see if a drive shaft place can replace the shaft itself. This sucks, but it could have broken going down the road and destroyed the rear end.

A man has to know his (equipments) limitations, not just his own.


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