# Mf 40b will not turn Right when warm.



## Big_mike (Dec 27, 2012)

Hey guys im about to lose it and cant for the life of me seem to figure this out. Its probally something simple but I dont know. I have picked up a MF 40B and everything is great about the tractor except one thing. 

When I traded for it I noticed the power steering wasnt working at all and the resivoir was empty. So I got it to the house filled the resivoir up and found a leak in one of the lines. Well I fixed it and filled the PS pump back up and took off. The power steering worked great until it got warm. 

When you first start the tractor and are using it the power steering is awesome until the fluid warms up. Then the tractor will turn left just fine but doesnt want to turn right. You can keep on turning to the right and it will finally go ahead and turn to the right. Now when you pick the front end up it will turn fine either way.

The guy I got it from had put a new power steering pump on it and he also gave me the old one. Well i tore into both of them and the filter in the old pump was TRASHED, and the filter in the new pump looks to be fine.

I have filled the pump with ATF and i can tell that there should be another hydro cylinder on the roadside of the tractor but the guy said it works fine without it and it does. But would that make a difference? What about the "pump" thats under the dash under the steering wheel? Im just kinda stuck here guys and was hoping that maybe someone may be able to point me in the right direction. Im sorry if this has been asked before but I couldnt find it. Thanks For any advice!!!

Mike


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

It could be that the seal on the piston in the cylinder is bad. We had a CaseIH 7220 at the tech college I went to that you had to keep turning the wheel to the left to keep going straight. Found out that the seals in the cylinders were shot and bleeding off pressure to the other side of the piston. Otherwise, I'd suspect that something is wrong with the steering sector (the "pump" thing you see under the dash). There are valves and ports in there that may be worn and leaking when the oil gets warm. I'd start with the cylinder first. Had an Ariens GT tractor do the exact same thing you describe and the o-ring seal that went around the piston in the cylinder was flattened to one side, allowing oil to bypass in one direction only. It would turn left no problem, but not right at all. A cylinder rebuild is much cheaper than tearing into the steering sector (not to mention far easier). Not sure about a second cylinder. Perhaps it was used in industrial applications? I'm not familiar with that model, so I can't help you there.


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## Big_mike (Dec 27, 2012)

Country Boy said:


> It could be that the seal on the piston in the cylinder is bad. We had a CaseIH 7220 at the tech college I went to that you had to keep turning the wheel to the left to keep going straight. Found out that the seals in the cylinders were shot and bleeding off pressure to the other side of the piston. Otherwise, I'd suspect that something is wrong with the steering sector (the "pump" thing you see under the dash). There are valves and ports in there that may be worn and leaking when the oil gets warm. I'd start with the cylinder first. Had an Ariens GT tractor do the exact same thing you describe and the o-ring seal that went around the piston in the cylinder was flattened to one side, allowing oil to bypass in one direction only. It would turn left no problem, but not right at all. A cylinder rebuild is much cheaper than tearing into the steering sector (not to mention far easier). Not sure about a second cylinder. Perhaps it was used in industrial applications? I'm not familiar with that model, so I can't help you there.


Thanks!! Ill check it out and see what I come up with


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## shona13 (Aug 12, 2011)

G'day Big mike.
The "PUMP"under the dash is in fact the power steering transmitter valve it is there to transfer the oil /pressure left or right to adjust there is the connecting link ,a hexagonal unit with two locknuts one either end you want to turn the long hex NUT in the middle to make the assembly shorter thus allowing the transmitter valve to favour the right turn a little bit at a time and try it out till you get the result you want.
happy Days.
Hutch.


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## Big_mike (Dec 27, 2012)

Ok guys thanks for all the info so far. After talking to a few people I dont think that it is the orbital motor but believe its going to be a seal in the steering cylinder. I removed the cylinder and since I had it off I figured I would go ahead and replace the tie rod end while I was at it. Well I called my closest MF dealer and he quoted me 79.00 for a seal kit and then told me that there wasnt anyway to buy new tie rod ends unless I bought a new cylinder. He quoted me a new cylinder for 2000.00. Anyways he gave me the part numbers for the seal kit and the cylinder and I cant find anything on a Google search for it. But I did find a cylinder that is "supposed" to work. Does anyone know where a guy could find a cylinder online that you can pay for without selling a child? Thanks Mike


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## shona13 (Aug 12, 2011)

G'day big Mike.
I am sure the rod end is screwed on and locked in place by a small roll/spring pin that can be removed with a small pin punch if not cut the rod end of using a 5 " grinder and buy a rod end from an automotive part shop ,prep the end of the new end and the steering rod ,replace the seal kit and have the new end welded on this will do the job and it wont cost to much .
Find a suitable end before you cut the old one of.
Happy days.
Hutch.


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