# 75 Ford 3000 3 PT Lift Issues



## Jeepster04 (Mar 26, 2019)

I apologize if you frequent other tractor forums, you'll see my post elsewhere.

Im trying to get some input on what would cause a 3pt lift to go to full lift on its own. It occurs randomly when you would be moving the control lever to raise the 3 pt. It happens under load and without load. As you can imagine, this makes for some interesting situations when you're lifting something heavy and it keeps going up when you push the lever back down! Sometimes it'll 'pop' after it reaches full height and goes right back down, other times it will stay at full height. When it stays at full height, the control lever is very stiff. Shutting the tractor off and letting it settle back down is the only way to resume control.

I've disassembled the lift cylinder and the unloader valve seems perfect but the control valve was sticking. Could a sticking control valve cause this? Its hard for me to 100% understand whats happening when you move the control lever since its not self centering, but the control valve should just move with the control lever. When raising, its pushed in and stays in till you lower the control lever, correct? So it sticking would just cause it to not respond when trying to lower, but I could be 100% wrong there. 

Its the unloader valve that self centers but I was disappointed to find that it was perfectly smooth once I pulled the plug out. Its the newer style with an 'iron ring' instead of a rubber oring.

Video of the issue:






sticking control valve:






After polishing the bushing of the control valve it seems smooth now. I'm not able to get it to stick anymore.

The flow control override was stuck so it was always getting 100% flow but that shouldnt be an issue. The piston in the lift cylinder had an oring and some sort of plastic oring in place of the leather ring. The plastic ring was broke so I'm hoping thats why it would always settle down. The check valve ball and seat appear to be perfect but it appears someone took a screw driver to the safety valve so Ill be replacing that.










Control valve bushing, you can see the small spot of rust which I guess is what was causing it to stick:


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Welcome to the forum Jeepster. This is out of my wheelhouse, but there are some super knowlegible members here that'll advise you. Until then, enjoy the forum!


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## Jeepster04 (Mar 26, 2019)

Ive finally figured out how the 3pt lift works and I now know the sticking control cylinder is to blame. 

Does anyone know anything about replacing the control valve bushing? Called two new holland dealers and neither know whats going on. It seems there should be a dab of paint to let you know what size bushing to buy but there isnt a dab of paint on mine. The service manual talks about trying different size valves after tou press the new bushing in but thats not something I can do.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

the nylon split ring on the piston is made like that so it can be rolled into the groove, its purpose is to protect the "O" ring from being worn from the metal wall of the groove, if you remove this, make sure it goes back the same way.

is the bushing worn, could you not get a small brake cylinder hone or go to a brake shop and ask them to hone the bushing for you.

I can't pick the inside dia. of the bushing, but you could also make up a small jig with a piece of wooden dowel, cut a slot in one end across the middle, fold up some fine wet and dry and fit this into the slot and wrap around the dowel in direction of rotation and then fit the dowel to the chuck of a drill and use this to polish the interior of the bush.


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## Jeepster04 (Mar 26, 2019)

The more I dig into this the more stupid I find. 

The return filter was broke off and laying under the PTO shaft. Its been getting ground on by the PTO shaft for years I imagine. No oring on the supply filter tube, no oring on the return tube, even if the return filter was being used the incredibly small orifice that allows oil to flow through the return filter was clogged with bits of rubber. Not sure what the point of the return filter is, very little oil flows through it. 

I've been trying to keep everything clean but once I drained the oil I found the bottom to be full of crap and sludge... Not sure how Ill be cleaning that out, all of the oil didn't drain since the tractor isn't 100% level...

Had to take the PTO lever off to get the supply filter tube out and I sheared the detent ball spring somehow.. Fantastic.. 

Found a nice NOS supply filter on ebay and when I got it the filter fell off... Thankfully ebay has a good return policy.. basically even if the seller doesnt take returns if its broke they make them... 










clogged orifice:










The oil flowing out of this little orifice is all that goes through the return filter. The rest goes out of the relief valve which keeps something like 35psi of back pressure on the system:




























I think its so cool that ford put their logo on EVERYTHING. Anything I touch says ford or FOMOCO.. Just neat. Hate to replace stuff with aftermarket since that goes away. 










Mostly missing oring










Tried to press a new PTO shaft seal in the PTO cover last night and quickly destroyed it.... That was a waste of $11... 

Im going to make an order for orings and gaskets n such from messicks. They have most of everything and its a decent price other than something that has any mass to it.. The tube thats broke, $413 from NH!! Hoping a local machine shop can weld it for me. If not, an aftermarket is $100...


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