# Long 460 Hydrostatic Steering Cylinder Hydraulic Fittings Size



## 6.7LMegaCab (Mar 26, 2021)

Hey all! New here...I bought a Long 460 last weekend and on day one, the hose for the front bucket ruptured, so I had a heavy equipment shop make new hoses for nearly the entire system.

We ran into a problem with the hydrostatic steering cylinder lines though. Only one hose had the correct fittings that he swapped to a new hose, whereas the other hose was cobbled together with a hose with male threads on both ends, iron coupling, and a swivel adapter. This line was leaking at either end through the threads, so I wanted to replace it. The hydraulic shop is having a hard time figuring out what fittings it needs (I have not taken the cylinder to them, yet) but they do have the other hose for reference. The hydraulic guy says it's a British pipe fitting or some sort. 

Any idea on what the hydraulic thread size is on the cylinder? Is there an adapter that can be sourced to convert those threads to a male JIC? This line might be the one thing that keeps me from moving 80 tons of dirt this weekend that was just dropped off.

Here are a few pics of what I'm talking about:









The bottom line is what I'm needing to get figured out:


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## gasmith10 (Nov 9, 2016)

Greetings again. I tried briefly to see if I could find the actual size of the fittings on these hoses but, I was unsuccessful. I can tell you that the part no. is Long TX16041. It appears that they were available on Ebay at one time but, not currently. They may be available at a vintage tractor supply company online.
I suspect that what ever the size, it's going to be metric just like every fastener on the 460.



Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk


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## 6.7LMegaCab (Mar 26, 2021)

Thank you once again! That's what I'm starting to discover - metric for a lot of the bolts although, I'm finding a mixture of SAE. This tractor was owned by the U.S. Dept of Labor - so who knows what all they did when they owned it. The guy I got it from picked it from a state auction some time ago and replaced the clutch within the last couple of months (and gave me the old clutch).

I'll see if I can find that hose you mentioned. I'll figure out a temp fix if the hydraulic shop can't figure it out. I just got the hydraulic cylinder off for them to reference the fitting and hopefully make something work.


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## 6.7LMegaCab (Mar 26, 2021)

Update on my plans for this. After removing the steering cylinder to take to the shop to figure out the fittings (to no avail), I put it back on but it didn't like being removed and now the seal is leaking as well as where the iron coupling is at. Since no replacements are available, this is what I will be doing:

1. I have a Bailey Hydraulics Maxim 400509 WSB Swivel Ball Welded Cylinder on order from Tractor Supply. This is a 1.5" x 12" cylinder which closely matches the measurements I took with the wheels full left (~22" center of coupling block to swivel pin) and full right (~31"), rather than with the cylinder fully closed and open, off of the tractor.

2. Since the original uses a threaded rod to connect to the tie-rod, my retrofit will initially be to build a U-adapter and weld a nut on the bottom to attach to the tie rod - or I'll cut the threads off of the end of the old rod and weld it to the U-adapter. I'll drill 3/4" holes through the U-bolt to pin or bolt the cylinder to it. On the tractor side, I might have to slightly enlarge the holes or find a 3/4" to 1/2" bushing.

3. If #2 above doesn't quite work because it binds on the rod end, I'll weld the U-adapter to the swivel.

4. The good hose with the BSPP fittings (top hose in the pics) - I will remove one of the hose fittings and put it on a new hose and use JIC swivel female fittings on the cylinder side.

I'll post more updates (and pictures) once I get the cylinder in and can begin fabricating something.


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## 6.7LMegaCab (Mar 26, 2021)

As promised, here is the retrofit I had to do to get the steering going again on the tractor. I went in a different direction than I had planned because I was wasting too much time trying to come up with a solid U-adapter. So, as much as it pained me to do, I cut the threaded end off the original rod and welded it to the new cylinder. It turned out really good and as solid as can be! The old cylinder wasn't worth the headache waiting for the local shop to figure out a way to rebuild and the shop hours alone weren't worth it. If this tractor was in pristine condition, I would have forked over the money.











On the tractor side, I forgot the original bolt holding the old cylinder on was 1.25" in diameter. I measured at the threads thinking the enter bolt was that size. I was wrong, so I went to Tractor Supply and grabbed a Top Link CAT 2 to 1 bushing, pressed it in on one side and welded a couple 3/4" machinery bushings on the other end. This ended up being a perfect fit for a 3/4" pin.:


















The manufacturer for these bushings try very hard to make the labels hard to remove, so I just left it on. I cut the bushing short rather than leaving it extended because the pin wasn't centering on the hole to the right. I thought it could have been due to a slightly bent pin, which seemed like that was the cause as I was able to center the two bushings and weld them on just fine.










Here's the completed setup. The only thing I should have done was double-check the original hole size and get a 2-2.5" bore cylinder. This also would have given it a little more power to steer, but it works great nonetheless! The added benefit of welding on the threaded rod end to the WSB was that it was way easier to install it on the tie-rod coupler without having to use a wrench.


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