# 2146 dead after mowing



## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

I used my 2146 to mow then got off for about three hours. I tried to start it and it seemed dead. No dash lights, nothing. I checked the battery it was showing over 12 volts. There is a fuse on the left side of the ignition and it has a light that lights up when ignition is tuned on. There is also a fuse just to the right side of the ignition switch and it checks good also. I jumped the solenoid poles and got the start to spin but it would not kick up and engage the flywheel. I checked the seat switch and its good. Not sure how to check electric PTO switch to see if its good. One possibility is that I left key switch on for 3 hours but I can jump poles on solenoid and get starter to turn so I don't think its a dead battery. Anyone have any ideas. Maybe the location of any other switch's I might be missing?????????


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## Fredneck (May 25, 2012)

hi jack, and welcome to TF 

your situation sounds strange to me. if u have the power to spin the starter, u should have the power to activate indicator lamps on the dash. but, while there should be enough power for the lights, i have to wonder about the bendix on the starter not pushing the gear out to the flywheel. not sure, but that could be an indication of the starter not spinning as fast as it's supposed to, which could be because of low power. however, that should still be more than enough power for the lights, so i have to believe something else is going on. i'm just stumped as to what, as it sounds like you've checked the usual suspects.

if u have a battery charger, or can borrow one, i'd say it can never hurt to hook it up and see what happens. and if u don't have one, my experience over the years tells me a battery charger is a must-have for anyone with any vehicle that uses a battery. i have an old cheap one here, and it has earned its keep countless times thru the years.


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## rcbe (Aug 26, 2015)

4 things to look into:
1) faulty cl/brake switch
2) PTO sw turned off while trying to start
3) ign sw itself may have failed.
4) battery may be failing - remove, take to shop for LOAD test...


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## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

rcbe said:


> 4 things to look into:
> 1) faulty cl/brake switch
> 2) PTO sw turned off while trying to start
> 3) ign sw itself may have failed.
> 4) battery may be failing - remove, take to shop for LOAD test...



Thank you very much


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## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

jackc said:


> Thank you very much


Question. Where brake/clutch switch located?


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## rcbe (Aug 26, 2015)

best way to locate cl/brake sw is by chking the parts list exploded diagrams.

Look on your tractor for a plate/decal (often in the cavity unter the tilting seat) with the FULL model # and serial #. Go to website http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/Public.do , enter data, d/l free pdf copies of parts lists and manuals.

OTW, folllow the cl pedal linkage under the tractor until you locate a switch which is activated when the pedal is depressed...


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## TominDallas (Aug 4, 2015)

I'm still wondering about that fuse. I have seen fuses made so that they light up when they are blown. Not illuminated when they are good.


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## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

I really hadn't considered that the fuse may be blown. You could very well be right. I will check it when I get home and will let you know. Thank you


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## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

TominDallas said:


> I'm still wondering about that fuse. I have seen fuses made so that they light up when they are blown. Not illuminated when they are good.


New fuse fixed dash problem. Getting power to dash. Still won't start. Jumped small Connection on solenoid to large post got nothing. I Did see sparks but solenoid would not engage starter. Jump two large terminals on olenoid and starts would spin but thats it. Bad solenoid?


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## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

Ok new details. Solenoid is very hot to the touch with key on so i think contacts in solenoid are stuck closed and that would explain why my battery was dead today. I am guessing but don't know what else to try So I am going to replace solenoid .


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## TominDallas (Aug 4, 2015)

Yeah, if you jump the small solenoid terminal to the battery side and it does nothing, there's something wrong with the solenoid. If you jump the two large terminals and the starter spins, the rest of the machine could be good. Gotta start with a new solenoid to find out.


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## douber1 (Nov 5, 2010)

when mine does that it is overheating and has to cool down
i let it set for a while then she starts up


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## film495 (Nov 1, 2013)

check to see if when you turn the key to start, the small power post/lead on the solenoid has hot/live power, something tells me it may not, there likely is a correlary lead on the back of the ignition switch marked (S) check that also when you turn the key to start should have power. the dash lights going out are run off your accessories, and something made that fuse blow out - possibly the ignition switch is failing? if you don't have power on the back of the ignition switch when you turn the key on the (S) post, but there is power to the switch from the battery (B) post, your ignition switch is shot. if you have power at the ignition switch, but not at the other end of the lead at the solenoid, you have a bad connection or a blown fuse between the starter swtich and the slenoid. If you have power at the switch when you turn the key to start, and power at the solenoid when you turn the key to start, and it just clicks or does nothing, you have a bad starter solenoid. why your starter is not behaving correctly is another story, possibly jumping the terminals makes sparks and you're not quite holding the connection long enough for it to start/engage completely. Fix the electrical issue and the starter issue may fix itself?


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## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

film495 said:


> check to see if when you turn the key to start, the small power post/lead on the solenoid has hot/live power, something tells me it may not, there likely is a correlary lead on the back of the ignition switch marked (S) check that also when you turn the key to start should have power. the dash lights going out are run off your accessories, and something made that fuse blow out - possibly the ignition switch is failing? if you don't have power on the back of the ignition switch when you turn the key on the (S) post, but there is power to the switch from the battery (B) post, your ignition switch is shot. if you have power at the ignition switch, but not at the other end of the lead at the solenoid, you have a bad connection or a blown fuse between the starter swtich and the slenoid. If you have power at the switch when you turn the key to start, and power at the solenoid when you turn the key to start, and it just clicks or does nothing, you have a bad starter solenoid. why your starter is not behaving correctly is another story, possibly jumping the terminals makes sparks and you're not quite holding the connection long enough for it to start/engage completely. Fix the electrical issue and the starter issue may fix itself?


Thank so much. I will try that today when I get off of work and let you know


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## country Gent (Jul 22, 2010)

When you go to start, are you sitting in the seat and is your mowing deck disengaged "Shut Off". Are you in Neutral or clutch depressed?? May have a thing pertaining to safety switches!!


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## cutterman74 (Sep 6, 2015)

I had the same issue on mine a GT 2523, and found not a bad battery, even tho I replaced it. found blown fuses, and replaced them. The system is set up to blow fuses so no other damage can happen. I would check for broken wires grounding out, or anything else. last resort, is a dealer to trace it out.


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## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

cutterman74 said:


> I had the same issue on mine a GT 2523, and found not a bad battery, even tho I replaced it. found blown fuses, and replaced them. The system is set up to blow fuses so no other damage can happen. I would check for broken wires grounding out, or anything else. last resort, is a dealer to trace it out.


Thanks for the idea. Will check wires today


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## jackc (Aug 13, 2015)

Update. Installed new solenoid. Same problem. Bench tested ignition switch. Connected jumper to battery post. Had some voltage( 6.0) to starter post which runs to small black wire on solenoid, with key in run position. I don't believe that is correct. I think voltage should be allowed only when key is in start position not in run pozjtion. Am I correct?


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## TominDallas (Aug 4, 2015)

Jack you're right. One large terminal on the solenoid connects to the Battery+ cable. The other large terminal connects through a cable to the lug on the starter. The small terminal on the solenoid is connected to the key switch with a small 16 ga wire and is connected to the battery + ONLY when the keyswitch is held in the start position. Solenoid gets it's ground from the mounting bolt.


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## film495 (Nov 1, 2013)

jackc said:


> Update. Installed new solenoid. Same problem. Bench tested ignition switch. Connected jumper to battery post. Had some voltage( 6.0) to starter post which runs to small black wire on solenoid, with key in run position. I don't believe that is correct. I think voltage should be allowed only when key is in start position not in run pozjtion. Am I correct?


I think your only supposed to have voltage there, when you turn the key to start, sounds like the connections inside the switch maybe failing; this could be why you likely have a few blown fuses.


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