# 1050 Hydro Lift



## A2lute (Nov 2, 2016)

So I bought a 1254 a few years back for $75. It really was worth $75 though . Gears in the rear end were ground down AND the engine was shot; seized valve, broken camshaft, etc.

I ended up buying another guys 1050 project, scrapping everything from the 1254 but the Hydraulic pump. There wasn't too much wrong with the 1050, carb linkage loose and missing parts, bad wiring, and the front lights are "rigged" . There's one or two non-factory things on it but I'm not going to sweat it.

I'm hoping to document a Hydraulic pump rebuild, fabbing in the Cylinder and linkage, fitting LED lights, and showing 40 something years of wear on a wiring harness  Hopefully this goes better than the junky 1254 I bought. 

P.S. I have a really nice tubeframe rear end if anyone here in SE Michigan wants it cheap.


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## A2lute (Nov 2, 2016)

Poor fella pictured here had rust on the top half of the guts and dried black gunk on the bottom  I scraped out the bulk of it, ran it through a bucket of mineral spirits and brushed out the rest. Pressure relief ball was MIA, oillite bushing was worn out badly, some strange Jerry-rigged spring, wire, brazed bolt and bracket thing was serving the function of the spring. A few trips through a bucket of phosphoric acid for most of the parts cleaned them up well. I'll get some pictures of the inside once the paint dries.


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## A2lute (Nov 2, 2016)

Seals and new spring came in! I wonder if I could show ya'll the hokey setup that was on here before...

Either way, you can see the new spring, roll pin retaining it , and the new roll pin holding the valve body in.







I got the seal kit from www wheelhorsepartsandmore com. The seals all fit perfect, the spring was a bit snug in the slot, but some light persuasion from my smallest brass hammer is all I needed. the seal running around the pump body is a square ring, not an o-ring







it fit perfect. And in pic4 you can see a TINY gap between the input shaft seal and the pump body. There is a tiny oil drain hole here you don't want to block. 







In pic one you can see the oilite bushing is REALLY roasted out. I should have that by this afternoon and button up the pump gears.







One thing I don't like about this pump is the input shaft rides in cast iron. I actually see a spot right behind the input seal I could press one in. If the life of that seal is poor I may buy a new chunk of 1/2" shafting and a bushing. A bigger pulley to slow it down would help bearing life too. Anyone know if 4" OD is the stock pulley size?


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## A2lute (Nov 2, 2016)

For all you shy viewers out there, I just got some bad news last night and dodged a bullet today.

In my last picture you can see the idler gear shaft. That is actually a sliding fit shaft with a 1/2" OD stepped down to 3/8" where the bearing rides. The 3/8" section is worn down below 3/8" and at a taper. I think my solution to this will be to have a friend machine the step down to 5/16 and I'll order a new bushing. I hate to go to a smaller shaft because the RPM's will increase, but it's a low load pump.

Here is my dodged bullet.
http://www.cubcadetman.com/cc/how-t...3/01/working-on-narrow-frame-hydraulic-pumps/
Perusing another forum I see this, and right at the end I see that some pumps came with a needle bearing for the drive shaft. Suddenly the strange steel seal behind my input seal makes sense. It's the empty bearing shell I didn't recognize. $8 bucks on mcmaster carr and I have my new bushing and bearing en route.


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## A2lute (Nov 2, 2016)

Test fit up the pump today, the throttle bracket is in the way. I'll have to fab up a new one, shouldn't be too hard.

I also dropped the plow and hooked up the mower deck, which I promptly found out had ROASTED bearings in the right most spindle. I ordered 6 new bearings to do all the spindles for $20, not so bad. It had sealed bearings in it, which I thought was weird. I ordered shielded so the grease could still get in. OEM had one shield on each bearing facing the outside near as I can tell from manuals. I may do the same to my bearings.

-Arrmon


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## A2lute (Nov 2, 2016)

Because nothing is easy, the reason the bearings were shot is because all the shafts were undersized by about 10 thou and therefore spun eccentric, and that is probably the main factor contributing to the bad bearings. So I need to order some new shaft. 

The pump is bolted in, I have hoses and a ram, so I should be able to test it shortly.

-Arrmon


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## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

nice project


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## A2lute (Nov 2, 2016)

Thanks Willy.

Got the pump belt installed







Someone had welded a bit right where the carriage bolt rides so I had to pull it all apart and grind it flat with a die grinder. I'm not sure whoever had this last actually used it...







Here's the muffler I made for it, nice and quiet. Packed with rockwool. Both pipes going in and out are capped and I drilled a bunch of 3/16" hole drilled through the walls.


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## A2lute (Nov 2, 2016)

I forgot to grab a picture on my way out this morning, but I drilled a 1-1/4" hole through the frame on the outside of the tube, and a 1" hole on the inside. I ran the pin through, leveled it, got it square to the frame and welded it in. I put in far more material than I took out so I'm hoping the frame is actually stronger than when I started, even accounting for the HAZ.

I hooked up the Ram and ran it in and out a few times to get the air out. As soon as I got the most of the air out and dead headed it I was reminded that I forgot to block a test port by a jet of oil blasting out. So I called it for the night at that point...


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