# New owner Ford 3500 3pt stabilizer question



## Ryan R (May 5, 2020)

I just recently purchased an old Ford 3500 Industrial and as I'm learning about it I found out that I do not have stabilizer bars that attach to the 3 point bars (sorry dont know the correct terms yet.) I read that my attachments will sway side to side without these. What do I need to get to fix this? Thanks!


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy Ryan, welcome to the forum.

Your loader frame attaches to your rear axle, which presents your first obstacle. The stabilizer bracket (see below) also mounts on the rear axle fender bolts. So, you may be able to mount the bracket on the axle next to the loader frame?? The stabilizer pin mounted on this bracket must be very close to the same plane as the 3 point lift arms mounting bolt, or the bars will be in a bind with the lift arms as the 3-point is raised/lowered. 

I thought anything that would fit a 3000 would fit a 3500, but apparently this is not the case. I copied the attached from Yesterdays Tractor site. Contact them to see what the difference might be.


*
Stabilizer Bracket* - Used on the left or right side, this bracket has mounting bolt hole spacing of 5 inches on center. It is 6.75 inches long and 0.375 inches thick. This part replaces 231254, C5NNN928D, 181775M1, 181775M91, 181776M91. Color varies. This part may arrive Red, Blue, or Black. (Part No: 231254)


*
Stabilizer Bar Left Hand* - Link, stabilizer, left hand. For 2600, 2610, 3000, 3600, 3610, 4100, 4110, 4600SU, 4610SU. Dual Category - II & III, center to center on holes 31.500 & 32 inches, Holes diameters .875 & 1.125 inch, Overall Length Approx 33.5 inches, Thickness Approx .375 inch, and a Width of 2 inches. (Part No: C5NNN455B) $30.06








* Stabilizer Bar Right Hand* - Link, Stabilizer, right hand. For 2000, 2600, 3000, 3600, 4110. 31.5 inches center to center on holes, holes .875 inches, .375 inches thick, 2.00 inches wide. (Part No: C5NN454C) $30.83


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

I found a set of ratchet type (tube with adjustable threaded ends) from Cross Creek tractor for $34 that beat the stiff bars hands down. They are easy to hook up, then adjust tension until implement is locked in place. Have the solid bars on the old tractor and must push or pull the implement to get the bars lined up with the pins


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I never use sway bars.
I do not like them.
I think it's better to have a bit of movement/flex back there.
There is a myth out there that you Must use sway bars or you will surely die and your children will be cast away like leaves upon a stormy sea.
It is just that; myth.
Try your tractor as it is without them. You will be fine and you might even live to like being able to sashay your mower, back blade, plow, disc or whatever side to side a bit to avoid obstacles.


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## Ryan R (May 5, 2020)

Do the chains that are attached supposed to stop the sway?


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

The stop chains you refer to are to prevent the lift arms from hitting the rear tires.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Ultradog said:


> I never use sway bars.
> I do not like them.
> I think it's better to have a bit of movement/flex back there.
> There is a myth out there that you Must use sway bars or you will surely die and your children will be cast away like leaves upon a stormy sea.
> ...





Ultradog said:


> I never use sway bars.
> I do not like them.
> I think it's better to have a bit of movement/flex back there.
> There is a myth out there that you Must use sway bars or you will surely die and your children will be cast away like leaves upon a stormy sea.
> ...


The rest may be OK, but the potato plow/ trencher needs to be locked in tight or your drainage ditch will look like a snake and you will plow up 1/2 the garden 12" at a time to find the potato row, then make several passes with a springtoothe to find the potatos covered up trying to plow them out.


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## Ryan R (May 5, 2020)

I used a back blade and seemed fine. I think I will still get some for future use of a trencher and other things but I have to figure out how I am going to mount them. Thank you for your guys help!


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Ryan R said:


> I used a back blade and seemed fine. I think I will still get some for future use of a trencher and other things but I have to figure out how I am going to mount them. Thank you for your guys help!


You can get a little longer threaded pins the correct size w/ washer, lock washer and HD nut fairly cheap at Tractor Supply. You can look at a similar tractor and get a good idea of the angle. Then attach the pins to the side of the loader frame, or weld a mounting plate to the bottom of the loader frame under the fender bolts, measure for length before placement. Should be a relatively easy install.


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## Ryan R (May 5, 2020)

I looked at it closer and it looks like there are brackets already mounted to the fender bolts but the loader is blocking the holes. I will probably just drill the holes through and get longer pins.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Looks like a winner. Only problem I see is tightening the nut. If you can get a long enough pin, you can mount 2 nuts on the pin. Weld the inside pin in place and use it to tighten the nut inside the loader mount. Looks like you can get a wrench inside the loader mount to hold the nut. Good Luck.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

With outer stabilizers you can remove the inner "check chains", and use a "safety chain" to keep the arms in place when no implement is attached. This gives a 4000/5000 style. When you attach an implement, you unhook the safety chain and the arms fall out against the tires. This makes it easier to position the tractor close to the implement pins.

Attached a screenshot from an Owner's Handbook, showing the difference between 2/3000 and 4/5000. Some use a spring on the safety chain. Tensioning the chain/spring when you hook it together, makes the arms firmly put in place and saves the joints.


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## Busted Tractor (May 22, 2018)

The stabilizer bar must be the same length as the lower draft link and mounted at the same location as the lower draft link just out farther. Such as the loader frame or a sway bar bracket if it is not the same location the lower links will ark when raised and lower and if you use one on each side something will not work they will either bend or break. As for the chains they will not be an issue. As stated they keep the implement from swinging too far. Some of the compact tractors use a chain and turnbuckle for sway control but have no chains on the inside, they must be tied together when an implement is not attached or they will swing out and hit the tires. Some attachments do not use sway bars such as a moldboard plow, usually ground engaging implements don't use sway bars. Such implement as rotary mowers, sickle bar mower, hay rakes, hay tedders, and such need them.


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## Qcumber guy (Jun 25, 2017)

Greetings again
We use shackes(a turn buckle) here unstead of sway bars, then any size implement can be hitched


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