# Ford 3000 won’t turn over



## noacluck (Sep 18, 2020)

I have an older gas ford 3000 tractor. It was moved out to a field about 2 months ago and parked. You can turn the key on it and the dash lights up and then when you turn to start it, it just quickly buzzes/clicks and then stops. Then the dashboard lights go off and it won’t click again if you turn it again. You have to disconnect and reconnect the battery terminals and then it will light up and click, but it never turns over or sounds like it’s trying hard to start. It does have a new battery, and when it’s not being used we remove the connections to the battery so it doesn’t drain. What could this be?


----------



## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello noacluck, welcome to the tractor forum.

That sounds like a dead battery or a bad battery connection, especially a bad ground connection. Clean your battery cable connections (both ends) and try charging the battery and see if it helps. It could also be a bad battery cable with internal corrosion.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Sounds like the dreaded buildup between the inside of the battery connector and the battery post, a reaction takes place between the post and connector that effectively becomes an insulator and so no current can flow,use a battery post cleaner brush that will polish both post and connector, not that expensive from an Auto supplier.


----------



## noacluck (Sep 18, 2020)

The battery I put in was brand new, no corrosion on the post or connectors. The cables are old so maybe there’s a missing connection there or something...but it’s just weird that it clicks the first try every time and then completely dies.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Check the battery voltage, before a starting attempt and when the dash lights have gone out, without removing the connections. Then again, with the connections removed.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Ok my theory was wrong, with what you have written about loosing battery power guided me to that response, here is another, if you have a jumper set, hook the positive one to the battery positive post and the other end to the battery cable solenoid connection and see if the tractor will turn over, if it does, then you probably have the copper core in the main battery cable corroding away, try this first and if you get no response then hook up the negative jumper as well, and if this works, then the negative cable is sus.


----------



## noacluck (Sep 18, 2020)

I used a multimeter to verify that power was getting from the battery to the solenoid. I went ahead and replaced the solenoid and the starter.

Now if you turn the key it doesn’t buzz or click but the dash does stay on. Is there some kind of safety or kill switch I need to turn off?? The tractor is in neutral. I even tried wiring the battery directly to the starter and it didn’t turn over. I’m including pictures to help get some specific direction...last picture is the back of the solenoid with connections


----------



## Hightech1953 (Dec 30, 2018)

noacluck said:


> I used a multimeter to verify that power was getting from the battery to the solenoid. I went ahead and replaced the solenoid and the starter.
> 
> Now if you turn the key it doesn’t buzz or click but the dash does stay on. Is there some kind of safety or kill switch I need to turn off?? The tractor is in neutral. I even tried wiring the battery directly to the starter and it didn’t turn over. I’m including pictures to help get some specific direction...last picture is the back of the solenoid with connections


There is a neutral safety switch in the trans. The wires are just in front of the gear shift . The switch is activated by the High /Low shifter. They are notorious for going bad. You can jumper the switch out.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Having 12V, at rest, at the solenoid means nothing, the important thing here is current. If a wire or connection is bad, current will not go through in a proper way. Connectivity and voltage may look fine at rest, connecting a starter and expecting current to an amount of hundreds of Ampére to run along the lines, that is another cup of tea.

At least, the ground lug/wire connection is in a poor condition. Get new battery cables 70 mm² (~2/0 AWG) . That may sound a bit too large to a lot of people. It is common to use 35 mm² (~2 AWG). You will feel the heat on those when you need to crank for a longer time. Heat means larger resistance, the starter will slow down earlier than necessary. 

*** Edit
Sorry, I see now that it is a gasoline engine. You will probably do fine with 35 mm² (~2 AWG) cables.
***


----------



## Cat R (16 d ago)

I have a similar issue/mystery: I had left him parked for about a week and accidentally left the choke out. When I tried to use him the dash was still lid up, but not enough juice to start. We charged the battery and I used him the next day for like two hours. Got done and parked him.

Days later: ...(Mind you he started like a champ an any given day before!)When I turn the key, the lights come on bright. Battery shows fully charged. Replaced both battery cables yesterday. But he won't turn over or start!

If a standard tractor is like a standard transmission car (what I learned on in Germany and drove for years), if you step on the clutch it should start even if it is in gear. I tried Google and found docents of opinions of what it could be; one being that he's in gear.
Now the right shifter was always a bit harder to move and the left one sometimes didn't want to go in right away even when I stepped on the clutch....

Need some advise! Tractor repair is super-expensive around here! I'm an old woman! Hay is short and I have to buy and unload everything I can while there is hay! I can't do it all by hand! I REALLY need my tractor!


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum. If there is a no crank / no start issue it must be electrical. Is there any sound from attempting to start? A click or a buzzing sound, for instance? 
You may have a bad battery cable connection, even though they may look fine. Also there could be a safety switch that is causing a no start. Sounds like the first switch to check would be the gear shift safety. Try and ensure it is in neutral. Once you are sure it is, wiggle the shift levers to make sure the switch is being engaged while trying to start the tractor.
PTO should be off as well and the brake depressed.
Not sure if these Fords have those things, but there are some folks here that are very familiar with this tractor.


----------



## Cat R (16 d ago)

pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum. If there is a no crank / no start issue it must be electrical. Is there any sound from attempting to start? A click or a buzzing sound, for instance?
> You may have a bad battery cable connection, even though they may look fine. Also there could be a safety switch that is causing a no start. Sounds like the first switch to check would be the gear shift safety. Try and ensure it is in neutral. Once you are sure it is, wiggle the shift levers to make sure the switch is being engaged while trying to start the tractor.
> PTO should be off as well and the brake depressed.
> Not sure if these Fords have those things, but there are some folks here that are very familiar with this tractor.



No buzzing or anything. And I had the battery checked today. Its perfectly fine and newer than it looked. The cables are new, but I am going to clean everything up again when the rain lets off.

The gear shifts appear to be in neutral, but I also heard they can slip. But one would think it still would start if stepping on the clutch.


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

On the starter solenoid there will be 2 large terminals and one small 

On one of the big terminals will be the cable from the battery, use a screw driver or a scanner to bridge from that terminal to the small terminal, this will test the battery, cables and starter, the motor should crank, if yes we then need to work on why it won't crank from the key.

Using a test light check for power at the small terminal when the ignition is in the crank position, if there's no power it could be a safety switch (if it has one) the ignition switch or a bad wire.


----------



## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

I use to do the screwdriver “trick” too, UNTIL I read a bunch of forums about people not MAKING SURE the trans was in neutral and getting run over..
Never had it happen to me but it put the fear in me..
SO.. I went and bought a “remote starter button”..
It clips to the battery and the small terminal on the solenoid..
THEN u can stand away from the wheels and push the button.. & with any luck, it’ll spin over..
Your bypassing the key switch and wires and the safety switch’s if equipped.. 
The tool is pretty inexpensive and a must for any field mechanic or homeowner “wannabe” mechanic..


----------

