# Ford 2110 Hydraulic Issues



## hcsterna (Jan 9, 2016)

Hello
I have just bought a 2110. I believe it is a 1965. It is definitely the second gen LCG model of the 2110. It has a 3 cyl gas engine with the "select-o-speed" transmission. There is a simple dozer attachment on it and I'm trying to use it to plow the snow off my driveway. It was working great until the blade stopped operating. There is only one hydraulic cylinder to operate the blade up and down. It is the middle of its travel and seems to be stuck. It makes the maxed out wining noise when you move the valve in either direction. 

The blade is run off the pto lift hydraulics with the pump that came on the tractor. The fluid is taken from an adapter plate under what should be the selector valve but it is actually a remote valve that doesn't work. 

The setup was working fine and then all of a sudden stopped working. No visible fluid leaks have shown up and the control valve for the cylinder is brand new. 

I want to check the hydraulic filters and the pressure relief valve but the service manual I have doesn't say where these are or how to check them. Does anybody know? Do I have to pull the whole lift assembly to get at this stuff?

Thanks in advance for your help.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I wonder about the adapter plate. I think I know what you're describing, but have questions concerning the plumbing. Does the plate have two ports or three? The valve controlling your non functioning cylinder. What type/brand/style valve is this? How many hoses connect the valve to the tractor hydraulics(not counting those to the cylinder)? What more can you offer concerning the remote valve that "doesn't work"?
I believe you may be hearing the pump relief valve opening when you try to operate the cylinder, and I suspect the fluid returning from said cylinder may be blocked for some reason. This allows pressure to build yet nothing moves. Some pictures and more details about the plumbing, and hose configuration would be helpful in determining what's going on here.


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## hcsterna (Jan 9, 2016)

The adapter plate is the New Holland brand. It has two ports. One is the pressure port and the other is the pressure beyond. It then requires the return to go back into the rear diff at a different location. 
The valve I'm using is a blb I believe. I got it off the shelf at a local hydraulic supply store. I know it isn't top of the line but it has only been in service for three hours. It has three hoses connecting to the tractor. A pressure hose from the adapter. A pressure beyond hose back to the adapter and a return hose plumbed into the rear axle. 
The original none functioning remote valve was the first project I did on this tractor. My blade would drop as soon as you let go of the lever and I used my thermometer to determine it was a few degrees hotter then the pump. It is all seized and I was unable to get it apart. I cannot find a brand on it anywhere. I decided to move on from this valve which is why I ended up with the adapter plate and the new blb valve. Now the old valve is just used to cover the holes on the top of the adapter plate.
I installed a gauge on the pressure line just before it reaches the valve to further diagnos the issue and I can get just below 2000psi but only every now and then and only for a second or two.


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## hcsterna (Jan 9, 2016)

Decided to get after this thing today. Started to remove covers off the housing and found that an o ring on my internal pressure tube has blown and slid up the outside of the tube. Looks like I have to pull the lift cover. I also found the filter. It is way in the back basically right under the axle itself. Looks like it is going to be tough to change even with the lift cover off. 

I do have a question about the valve that I have plugged off and am using as basically a top cap for my adapter plate. It has two ports that go out to the cylinder and since I'm not using them I put a plug in each port. Should I have put a hose and connected the two ports in a loop instead? Did I dead head my pump and therefore blew my o ring?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy hcsterna,

Welcome aboard the tractor forum.

You are in good hands with Fedup, he is a very experienced tractor mechanic, so wait on his response. 
__________________________________________________

Regarding location of the hydraulic filters, see attached diagram. All are under the lift cover under the seat. Lift cover is heavy...need an engine hoist or a strong helper to pick it up. Big job to pull the lift cover to check filters. The hydraulic filter (item #50) has a bypass valve (item #56) which opens under pressure when the filter is plugged. Your tractor has probably been bypassing the filter for 30+ years! See item #60...suction screen. Difficult to get to the suction screen, which is down on bottom of the reservoir. Have to pull the lift cover and PTO shaft. As long as the pump is pumping fluid with 2000 psi pressure, I wouldn't mess with them.

Your relief valve is apparently working since you can hear the "maxed out" sound when you move the handle on the valve in either direction.

I think that I would crack open the cylinder connections (put a bucket under it to catch fluid) and see if you are getting fluid to the cylinder when you move the valve handle in both directions.


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## hcsterna (Jan 9, 2016)

Hello sixbales and thanks for that exploded view. Checked the connections at the cylinder and I do get fluid there. After removing the covers on the housing I found that item 40 in the pdf file has slide up the tube and is purched about half and inch from where the tube enters the housing. 
My current mission is to replace that o ring. I can't see any way to do it other then to pull the lift cover. So I figured I would do anything else in there that might need doing at the same time. Any common issues I should address while I'm in there?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Well, if you have fluid to the cylinder, why doesn't it move? Maybe it's frozen?

Has your 3 point lift been working well? If not, then you might as well put in a lift cover rebuild/reseal kit while you are in there. Also replace the cam follower pin if its worn (common problem). You may want to build up the cam if is worn badly. You should get an I&T shop manual for your tractor before pulling the lift cover. This manual will guide you through the lift lever adjustment setup using regular hand tools (as opposed to special tools which are no longer available). 

Getting to the suction screen is a difficult job. Have to pull the PTO shaft, and even then its a close quarters deal. One guy had a bad time getting an aftermarket screen back in place (I'm sure he had to bend the tube to get it back in. But if you are going into it, I feel its well worth cleaning the suction screen. There's 50 years worth of crud stuck in the screen.


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## hcsterna (Jan 9, 2016)

The 3 point lift doesn't work at all and hasn't since I purchased the tractor. The previous owner told me it wouldn't work because the remote control valve that was installed bypassed it. Now that that remote valve isn't working I'm looking to get the selector valve that originally came on this tractor to put in its place. That should allow me to use the 3 point lift again. Could this valve have been what cause my pressure tube to come loose? Is it perhaps deadheading my pump in some way?

I'm well into this now. That suction filter you spoke of looks exactly like you described. It has definitely been bypassing. The pto shaft came out pretty easy, and I was able to get the filter out.

On the internal pressure tube it was the snap ring that had come out and was riding up on the tube. When I pulled the lift cover that tube was very loose. 

It is very messy in there looks like I'm going to spend a few hours cleaning everything out. Lots of gunk on the bottom of the casing.


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## hcsterna (Jan 9, 2016)

As per the frozen cylinder. I had been using the blade for a few hours before it stopped working. Wasn't able to finish my polling. When I disconnect it from the blad and allow it cycle I works just fine, but with any weight on it it won't move.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Your cylinder problem sounds like it's mechanical in nature, and not tractor/hydraulic related at all. At least that's my best guess from what you've stated so far. About the O ring issue, that's not a common problem with these tractors, but stuff happens. Usually the O rings and seals will withstand relief pressure for years without failure. 
The non functioning valve -- While it's off, you might remove the plugs from the work ports, and using air pressure check each port for any connection to the ports under the valve body. If any air travels to one of those ports, that would indicate a possible path for oil flow and a potential problem. 
As for the lift not working -- if the external plumbing is a factor(always a possibility here) you can do a "quick check" of the lift system while the valve and sandwich block are both off the tractor. The two ports in the block(pressure out and pressure in) will mate with the pump supply and the lift system input. Determine which is the lift input. Then apply air pressure that port in the lift cover. With the levers in raise position, air pressure will easily cause the lift arms to raise. If so, then re examine the external plumbing. If not, then you probably have some internal issues there as well.


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## hcsterna (Jan 9, 2016)

Thanks for the info Fedup. I checked the lift cylinder as you said and it seems to work fine. I don't foresee myself using this feature so I'm going to leave it as is. I'm going to replace both the inlet and outlet filters as well as any o rings that I come across while I'm at it. The pressure tube (item 38 in the PDF was loose when I opened up the lift cover. I'm going to replace the o rings on it and reinstall it. I'm not entirely sure how it is supposed to sit in there though. Is it supposed to go in from under the tractor? I can't feel any ridges in the casing for the snap ring to fit into. Where is the snap ring supposed to sit? 

Once I get all this back together if it still doesn't work I'll look into the cylinder. Perhaps there is an issue with it.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Maybe the cylinder is hydraulically locked? Pressure applied to both ends at the same time? Or the system doesn't dump one end when pressure is applied to the other end?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Am I reading this correctly? You have at this point decided to re assemble all this and leave the three point inoperative? In my opinion a bonehead move. Your tractor, your money, and of course, your choice. You can buy a replacement adapter plate(I now have serious doubts about this item to begin with) for $60(two port block) or $100(three port block) which will provide both external hydraulics AND three point operation. 
Back to the external cylinder issue. You stated that it worked properly when you got the machine. Suddenly one day it failed to move the blade and the hydraulics seem to go over relief? Then you remove the cylinder from the blade and it functions? That does not add up. The relief should only come into play when the cylinder reaches the end of it's stroke or the load exceeds it's ability to move. Maybe what you heard was something other than the relief valve.


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## hcsterna (Jan 9, 2016)

Hello Fedup. I do plan make the 3 point lift work again. I checked the cylinder like you said and it works so I'm not going to rebuild the lift cylinder. I am looking into getting either the original accessory plate or the original selector switch to go in place of my non functioning remote valve in order to make the 3 point lift operable. That is just not my top priority. My top priority is to make accessory hydraulics work so that I can plow the snow off my driveway. 

Perhaps you are right about the noise I'm hearing being something other then the hydraulics going over relief. The cylinder for the blade does operate perfectly with no weight on it. But when weight is applied it does not move. I did put a pressure gauge into the system on the pressure supply line from the adapter plate and before it enters my new valve. On average I get 1500psi I get the odd spike to 2000psi but that is rare. To me that means either my pump isn't making the pressure I'm loosing it somewhere along the way. That is why I pulled the lift cover and when I found that the internal pressure tube inside axle housing was loose that seams like logical explanation as to my pressure loss. I'm waiting on some o rings and the filters to reassemble the rear axle housing once that is complete if it still doesn't work that leaves only the pump or the cylinder. If it does work I'll look into the selector valve do that my 3 point lift operates again. 

I'm am looking for some advice on how to reinstall that pressure tube inside the housing. I'm unsure of where the snap ribs is supposed to sit as I cannot feel any ridges in the casting to accept it. Any ideas?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Can't help you on the snap ring. I don't recall being faced with that dilemma. As I recall, the tubes fit down into ports in the flow control valve mounted between the lift cover and the pump.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Hope you had better luck than I did. That suction filter was a real pain.


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