# shear pins



## rghmm1 (Dec 24, 2010)

I have a Kubota b 3030 and have a front mounted Kubota snowblower that I replaced a new brass gear in last year. I have blown numerous shear pins (propeller) since i bought the blower about five years ago. The parts guy at Kubota shop told me to put stronger bolts. I have used blower about six times sor far this year and always break at least one pin. The snow is soo soft and powderly that you wonder what would cause this to happen. I love the tractor and bought the blower because we live in a snow belt. Anybody have any solutions. That brass gear costs around $800.00 so and shear pins are eighty cents a piece. Please give your opinions. THANKS


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## GreenFlyer (Feb 4, 2010)

Is there a TSC near you? They have aisles with the bolts labeled hardness. Ace Hardware and Napa or Autozone should also have harder bolts.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Me? I would put what is recommended and deal with it! Pins are indeed cheap and the alternative is not.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

I agree with tractor beam- altho its a pain, its cheeper buying a box of shear pins ( harbor freight has them) then $800 gears.


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## SCPOret (Oct 24, 2009)

Shear pins/bolts are in the system to protect more expensive parts. 

Shear bolts are grade 2 and have no markings on the head. This is a soft bolt which is designed to break before you tear up more expensive gears and other parts. 

Using any other device will 1) void a warranty if you still have one and 2) cost you money in parts and labor or your time.

I've been operating and fixing tractors and equipment for about 40 years. I've learned the hard way in some instances that a shear bolt is a lot less expensive than a gearbox or even one brass gear.


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## lawrence (Sep 20, 2009)

John Deere shear pins are grade 5 (3 strikes on the top)on the 42'' blowers. A softer bolt might stretch before it sheared.
Make sure they are not overtorqued when installing, as that would lead to premature breakage.


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## nbrandt (Mar 25, 2013)

rghmm1 said:


> I have a Kubota b 3030 and have a front mounted Kubota snowblower that I replaced a new brass gear in last year. I have blown numerous shear pins (propeller) since i bought the blower about five years ago. The parts guy at Kubota shop told me to put stronger bolts. I have used blower about six times sor far this year and always break at least one pin. The snow is soo soft and powderly that you wonder what would cause this to happen. I love the tractor and bought the blower because we live in a snow belt. Anybody have any solutions. That brass gear costs around $800.00 so and shear pins are eighty cents a piece. Please give your opinions. THANKS


check that the bushings where you use the small shear bolt are no oblong from engauging pto in high idle Kubota dont sell bushings i had 6 made for 50 dollars canadian and welded new ones in this saved me 700.00 and taught me only to ingauge in low idle


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## Evanedward (Mar 17, 2011)

I have a Kubota BX2360 with a front mounted snowblower. I use the recommended shearpins from Kubota, Last year I broke none but this year broke two fan shearpins. I won't use anything but the recommended shearpins becouse they will save much more expensive breakdowns. I find that when the motor starts to work harder it's time to slow down the forward speed. The blower will eat through snow at a much faster than it can get rid of it. I'd rather spend some extra time blowing than changing shearpins when it's zero outside. Having a hydro makes useing one of these easy and very usefull. All I need remember is back in the day when I had a rear mounted snowblower with a gear drive tractor with two speeds in reverse. One to fast and the other way slow. I've had some snow this year that made me wish I had a B3030 and a larger blower.


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## stephenscity (Oct 26, 2011)

In my humble opinion there is something wrong. Shear pins are there for just that. They should not be shearing on a regular basis. Something is out of allignment or binding or posibly you are forcing it through the snow and causing it to bind.I would look for a different Mech. though if they are telling you to use anything heavier than what is recomended by the manufactor. If these pins are shearing for no reason and have been doing so I believe I'd have a talk with the place I bought it.


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## Lonn77 (Sep 9, 2012)

I had the same problem with my buler blower and each there own but I welded the fan plates together. The entire drive is protected by another shear pin at the input shaft on my unit an if my chute plugs this shear pin breaks before any damage Is caused. Before I welded the plates I would hardly fill the chute without breaking a pin. Now I break maybe one if I'm in heavy wet snow. Though you have to be your own judge, as it's your equipment, if I replaced my blower I wouldn't hesitate to weld the fan solid again. But again each there own. I'm sure there are people who will swear against this.


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## Brutus (Oct 6, 2012)

What's your technique? I have crowded the heck out a rear mount blower and not blown a pin.... *UNTIL*... I, either, came out the other side of the drift or stepped on the clutch to stop the tractor and let the blower clear out. I have a theory that when the blower is loaded, torsion builds up in the driveline. This is the shafts and gears. When the load is suddenly released, the torsion is dumped, allowing the shafts and gears to "snap" back to their normal position which shears the pin. Easing off the load seems to help preserve the pins.


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