# Ym155d won't start



## juney.shober

My dad passed along his 1970 something ym155d to me last year. It has been well used for sure, but ran fine. He hadn't been using it very frequently because he now also has some newer and nicer equipment, which is how it came into my possession.

Anyways, it started running poorly and would stall. I traced the problem to a VERY dirty fuel filter. I also found some sludge in the radiator, flushed all that and refilled it, changed the oil and filter, adjusted the valves, and have it a good cleaning. 

I know after replacing the fuel filter I need to bleed the fuel lines. I believe I have done that satisfactorily. I have fuel streaming out of the screws above the filter, I let the one above the fuel pump run out a bit, and loosened the screws on the injectors as per the walkthrough on the Hoye website. In fact I've done all that twice now because it still won't start. 

The tractor will turn over fine. I took the battery to an auto parts store and they said it's in fine shape, so I don't think that's the problem.

I tested things with the air filter off to see if that made a difference, but it didn't. I also tried removing the exhaust manifold, and same thing. 

There's fuel in the tank, seems to fuel in the lines, I'm pretty sure I did the valves correctly (again, followed the Hoye walkthrough), seems to be getting air... Why won't it start?

My thoughts are the injectors themselves are clogged. The other thing could be the pump but, fuel comes out of the injectors when I crank. Could it be low compression? Did I just screw up the valve clearances? Any other ideas?

Thanks

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## juney.shober

Here's a pic of the tractor and my 'assistants'









Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## FredM

did you bleed the injection pump?, the bleed sequence is , fuel filters, then the injection pump and then injectors.


----------



## juney.shober

Yes. Two screws above fuel filter, then the one above the pump, then the injectors. I might try again though because it sat for a while without a filter on while I searched out a few one.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## FredM

your problem will be air, some diesel engines will start straight up after doing a basic bleed and some may take a number of bleeds.
I expect you would have had the throttle fully open when you bled the injectors and were the injectors spurting after bleeding ?.


----------



## juney.shober

FredM said:


> your problem will be air, some diesel engines will start straight up after doing a basic bleed and some may take a number of bleeds.
> I expect you would have had the throttle fully open when you bled the injectors and were the injectors spurting after bleeding ?.


It wasn't so much a spurt as dropping, but that may be because of my method. I took the little bolts all the way off to be sure I had loosened them sufficiently. The fuel drips out of where the fuel hose goes into the injector. Should I try something different?

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## juney.shober

juney.shober said:


> It wasn't so much a spurt as dropping, but that may be because of my method. I took the little bolts all the way off to be sure I had loosened them sufficiently. The fuel drips out of where the fuel hose goes into the injector. Should I try something different?
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


I went ahead and pulled the steel lines all the way out of the injectors. Very little fuel is coming out. Lines clogged? Bad fuel pump? I got my girlfriend to knock on the pump while cranking and not much seemed you happen differently 

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## juney.shober

juney.shober said:


> I went ahead and pulled the steel lines all the way out of the injectors. Very little fuel is coming out. Lines clogged? Bad fuel pump? I got my girlfriend to knock on the pump while cranking and not much seemed you happen differently
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


Okay... Upon letting it crank a few more times with the hoses all the way out and the throttle all the way up, I think I'm getting nice good spurts out. Still won't fire up though.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## winston

Did you set valves at .008"?


----------



## juney.shober

winston said:


> Did you set valves at .008"?


I'm more doubtful of the timing than the Gap. I'll probably double check them tomorrow just to be sure.

My method was to turn the motor over with a wrench on the crank where it comes out the front and watch the valve train go up and down. For each valve, I waited until the other valve for that cylinder was all the way down, then checked and adjusted the lock nut and adjustment screw.

Does that sound right?

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## FredM

most unusual way to adjust valves, never heard of this before, when you take the tappet/rocker cover off, time the #1 cylinder to TDC compression stroke and both #1 cylinder valves should be loose at the rockers and if the crankshaft is a 180° throw, then #2 cylinder rockers should be on the rock, that is, the exhaust valve rocker is on the way up and the inlet valve rocker is on the way down, but both should be at midpoint on the rock or equal at TDC, if this is the case then check the #1 cylinder valve clearances and adjust if needed, and then rotate the crank until you get #2 valves to be both closed and #1 valves should be on rock with both rockers equal, this will only happen if the crank has 180° throws.

your machine was running before you changed the fuel filter, and if you are getting good spurts now then maybe you have fixed that problem, but recheck the valve clearances and then give it a go.


----------



## winston

https://www.hoyetractor.com/valve-set.htm


----------



## juney.shober

FredM said:


> most unusual way to adjust valves, never heard of this before, when you take the tappet/rocker cover off, time the #1 cylinder to TDC compression stroke and both #1 cylinder valves should be loose at the rockers and if the crankshaft is a 180° throw, then #2 cylinder rockers should be on the rock, that is, the exhaust valve rocker is on the way up and the inlet valve rocker is on the way down, but both should be at midpoint on the rock or equal at TDC, if this is the case then check the #1 cylinder valve clearances and adjust if needed, and then rotate the crank until you get #2 valves to be both closed and #1 valves should be on rock with both rockers equal, this will only happen if the crank has 180° throws.
> 
> your machine was running before you changed the fuel filter, and if you are getting good spurts now then maybe you have fixed that problem, but recheck the valve clearances and then give it a go.


My trouble with that is knowing when the cylinder is at tdc. When I've done valves on motorcycles, I was able to take the flywheel cover off and look at the timing marks. I don't think I can do that on the tractor? If there another way to confirm I'm at tdc on compression stroke?

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## winston




----------



## juney.shober

winston said:


> View attachment 51805


I have a manual. It's worded a little different but the same idea. Now that I think about it, When I first went to do the valves, I couldn't find the marks on the crank pulley. If I had an idea of what it looks like I might have better luck. Is it just a line stamped in the metal? Just to be clear, this is on the front of the motor, where there is a pulley with a belt that goes up to the fan?

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## winston

Yes.


----------



## winston

If you will just roll the engine until inlet valve closes and then maybe just a tad more to get the piston close to top you will be good to set valves on whichever cylinder you are looking at.


----------



## juney.shober

winston said:


> If you will just roll the engine until inlet valve closes and then maybe just a tad more to get the piston close to top you will be good to set valves on whichever cylinder you are looking at.


Okay thanks. One other thing I've been trying to figure out... Which valve is intake and which is exhaust? I was assuming the ones on the outside of the motor were intake and they two in the middle were exhaust but that may be totally wrong.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## winston

Two in middle are intake.


----------



## juney.shober

Still not sure where the timing marks are. I took this pic, but it occurred to me that maybe the marks are on the side of the pulley?









Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## winston

I don't have an answer for you, I am sure it is there. I don't think it necessary for you to set your valves though.


----------



## FredM

there should be a pointer attached to the engine crankcase close to the rear of the pulley and I can't see a mark on the front of the pulley, but there will be a stamped mark most likely on the back edge of the pulley, align these on the compression stroke and you will have TDC #1 cylinder, where you can adjust the valves, then rotate the crank 180° and adjust #2 cylinder valves which should be on compression stroke also.

your crank has 180° throws so when you set up #1 cylinder on TDC compression stroke, watch the valve action of #2 cylinder, you will see the exhaust rocker starting to rise and the inlet rocker starting to go down, when you have #1 at TDC #2 will be on full rock, and if you reverse this with #1 on full rock, #2 will be at TDC.

the easiest way for you to pick which valve is either inlet or exhaust is, the exhaust valve is always the first to open followed by the inlet valve.

and if you want a manual, open this page and download to your computer.
http://vieux.tracteurs.free.fr/pdf/Yanmar135_155_Manuel_Atelier

you also need to replace that fan belt, it is hard and brittle with many cracks through it.


----------



## bmaverick

And if you need the parts manual with the exploded view diagrams, you can check them out here on our site ... 

https://www.tractorforum.com/manuals/ym155-parts-catalog.127/


----------



## Busted Tractor

Which valve is which? Turn the engine over in running direction. The exhaust valve opens first followed by the overlap then the intake valve opens. To set the valves have the valves rocking on one cylinder Piston will be near TDC. Turn engine one turn, now adjust the valves on the cylinder Repeat the process for the remaining cylinders. NOTE when the valves are "rocking" the piston is at or very near TDC on the exhaust/intake stroke one additional turn the crankshaft is on the compression/power stroke so the cam lobes are as far from the lifters as can be and the proper time to adjust them. Just be sure there is no compression release if so be sure it is set to the RUN position.


----------



## Raymond Henrie

juney.shober said:


> My dad passed along his 1970 something ym155d to me last year. It has been well used for sure, but ran fine. He hadn't been using it very frequently because he now also has some newer and nicer equipment, which is how it came into my possession.
> 
> Anyways, it started running poorly and would stall. I traced the problem to a VERY dirty fuel filter. I also found some sludge in the radiator, flushed all that and refilled it, changed the oil and filter, adjusted the valves, and have it a good cleaning.
> 
> I know after replacing the fuel filter I need to bleed the fuel lines. I believe I have done that satisfactorily. I have fuel streaming out of the screws above the filter, I let the one above the fuel pump run out a bit, and loosened the screws on the injectors as per the walkthrough on the Hoye website. In fact I've done all that twice now because it still won't start.
> 
> The tractor will turn over fine. I took the battery to an auto parts store and they said it's in fine shape, so I don't think that's the problem.
> 
> I tested things with the air filter off to see if that made a difference, but it didn't. I also tried removing the exhaust manifold, and same thing.
> 
> There's fuel in the tank, seems to fuel in the lines, I'm pretty sure I did the valves correctly (again, followed the Hoye walkthrough), seems to be getting air... Why won't it start?
> 
> My thoughts are the injectors themselves are clogged. The other thing could be the pump but, fuel comes out of the injectors when I crank. Could it be low compression? Did I just screw up the valve clearances? Any other ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk





juney.shober said:


> My dad passed along his 1970 something ym155d to me last year. It has been well used for sure, but ran fine. He hadn't been using it very frequently because he now also has some newer and nicer equipment, which is how it came into my possession.
> 
> Anyways, it started running poorly and would stall. I traced the problem to a VERY dirty fuel filter. I also found some sludge in the radiator, flushed all that and refilled it, changed the oil and filter, adjusted the valves, and have it a good cleaning.
> 
> I know after replacing the fuel filter I need to bleed the fuel lines. I believe I have done that satisfactorily. I have fuel streaming out of the screws above the filter, I let the one above the fuel pump run out a bit, and loosened the screws on the injectors as per the walkthrough on the Hoye website. In fact I've done all that twice now because it still won't start.
> 
> The tractor will turn over fine. I took the battery to an auto parts store and they said it's in fine shape, so I don't think that's the problem.
> 
> I tested things with the air filter off to see if that made a difference, but it didn't. I also tried removing the exhaust manifold, and same thing.
> 
> There's fuel in the tank, seems to fuel in the lines, I'm pretty sure I did the valves correctly (again, followed the Hoye walkthrough), seems to be getting air... Why won't it start?
> 
> My thoughts are the injectors themselves are clogged. The other thing could be the pump but, fuel comes out of the injectors when I crank. Could it be low compression? Did I just screw up the valve clearances? Any other ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk



My Yanmar quit one time and had me confounded for a bit when I discovered the rubber fuel line into the pump had a tiny hole that was allowing it to suck air. I replaced the line and bled the system and all has been fine for years.


----------



## cougsfan

I think adjusting the valves is not going to solve your problem. They may or may not need adjusted, but I seriously doubt that is what is keeping it from starting. Older diesels can be particularly hard to start if you have opened the fuel system, even if you have followed the bleeding instructions. There is air in there somewhere and you just have to get it out. 
My first recommended solution would be to tow it to start it if you can. Drag it around with another piece of equipment at a very moderate speed in second gear. I have done that with my Ferguson TO35 with good success when it has lost it's prime and wont start. 
My second solution some people may holler about is to use some starting fluid. Starting fluid over-applied can break piston rings, so be careful. Just spray a a small dab down the intake ("Psst", not "Psssssst") and try to start it using full throttle. Don't crank the starter over 5 seconds or so at a whack. Stop and let the starter cool off. Keep a charger hooked up to the battery while doing this.
I Another thing that will help is to get things as warm as possible before trying to start it. Cold diesel does't fire off as easy as warm diesel does


----------



## cougsfan

Oops I accidentally somehow posted as I was typing.... I don't know where you live, but if it is cold out, put a heater next to the fuel injection system before trying any of the above. (use common sense though). Let us know when you get it started. Good luck


----------



## juney.shober

I've thought about bump starting it, but it broke down inside my fence in back yard. The only thing I have suitable to tow it is a big ole ram pickup which I don't think I could get close enough to it without testing down the chain link. If it comes to that, it comes to that though.

I lived in the Georgia mountains. It's been in the 30s and 40s lately, which isn't super cold but probably not helping. I did try starting fluid without luck. This leads me to wonder if the compression issue is deeper than the valves being out of spec.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## winston

If you have used starting fluid there is a good chance you have messed up your engine. These little diesels will not tolerated it. The two inside valve are the suctions valves, outside valves are discharge.


----------



## juney.shober

winston said:


> If you have used starting fluid there is a good chance you have messed up your engine. These little diesels will not tolerated it. The two inside valve are the suctions valves, outside valves are discharge.


Messed up in what way? Needing new pistons and rings?

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## Bob Driver

Not familiar with that Yanmar… Does that thing have an "Over Flow Check Valve" in the fuel return circuit? Once you lose prime, that check valve can give you fits with an "air hammer" at the check valve (especially if the check valve is stuck closed from debris in the system).

The old school Cummins engines that had actual fuel lines(no gallery) had an overflow check valve bolted to the back of the block and a line that ran all the way back to the tank. We used to use a squeeze-ball primer like you see on a boat, or a small electric fuel pump, and "by-pass" the check valve. We would work the "by-pass" until we had fuel coming out of the return line at the tank fitting. Hook the tank line up and fire the engine. Once we got it running, we'd hook the overflow check back into the circuit.

You said the problem started with some "ify" fuel. Are you sure an "overflow check" isn't stuck closed by debris and causing an "air hammer" in a fuel return circuit? If you need to use a "starting aid" to get the engine to "Pop", use WD-40, especially when you have glow plugs.....


----------



## cougsfan

I told you some one would holler about using starting fluid. It does cause the cylinder to fire well before top dead center on the compression upstroke, which can be bad on things, mainly just piston rings. So it isn't the best idea, especially if you use too much. But I wouldn't panic yet. It is not a guarantee that has happened. I think it is more apt to happen if the engine actually starts with starting fluid.

I knew a guy who used staring fluid to start his Ford diesel every time he started it in the morning because he didn't want to spend the money to fix his injection system. He did this for years. His diesel ran OK other than that. Another friend eventually bought it, overhauled the injection system and it continued to run fine and started without fluid. No broken rings.

On the other side, I bought my TO35 about 30 years ago. The guy I bought it from said you have to use starting fluid to start it when it is cold (He was right). I ran it for the first 15 years like that, it ran fine but did have a fairly bad case of blowby. (Smoke blowing out of the engine breather). I finally decided to overhaul it and found that more of the rings were broken than not. When I got it back together it didn't smoke anymore, did have a little more power, but not nearly as much more I would have expected. Looking back, I am amazed it ran as well as it did with broken rings.

I still occasionally use a small dab of fluid to start it on a cold day. It doesn't take much. No broken rings yet after 15 years.

I'd try towing it. Probably less work to take down that fence than some of the other things you could do. Just go slow! It doesn't need to go over 3 mph or so.


----------



## Bob Driver

cougsfan said:


> I told you some one would holler about using starting fluid. It does cause the cylinder to fire well before top dead center on the compression upstroke, which can be bad on things, mainly just piston rings. So it isn't the best idea, especially if you use too much. But I wouldn't panic yet. It is not a guarantee that has happened. I think it is more apt to happen if the engine actually starts with starting fluid.
> 
> I knew a guy who used staring fluid to start his Ford diesel every time he started it in the morning because he didn't want to spend the money to fix his injection system. He did this for years. His diesel ran OK other than that. Another friend eventually bought it, overhauled the injection system and it continued to run fine and started without fluid. No broken rings.
> 
> On the other side, I bought my TO35 about 30 years ago. The guy I bought it from said you have to use starting fluid to start it when it is cold (He was right). I ran it for the first 15 years like that, it ran fine but did have a fairly bad case of blowby. (Smoke blowing out of the engine breather). I finally decided to overhaul it and found that more of the rings were broken than not. When I got it back together it didn't smoke anymore, did have a little more power, but not nearly as much more I would have expected. Looking back, I am amazed it ran as well as it did with broken rings.
> 
> I still occasionally use a small dab of fluid to start it on a cold day. It doesn't take much. No broken rings yet after 15 years.
> 
> I'd try towing it. Probably less work to take down that fence than some of the other things you could do. Just go slow! It doesn't need to go over 3 mph or so.


WD-40…. Says "Highly Flammable" right on the can and it means it. Ether is really tough on porcelain tipped glow plugs. Knew a Polish mechanic that used to work in Siberia before the breakup of the Soviet Union. Said -40 was a normal morning startup for their open pit mining operation. He said they would tie a rag to a stick, soak it with gasoline, and pull the air filter out. One guy would lite the stick and hold it up to the air intake, while another guy cranked the engine over and sucked the flame right into the engine. Apparently they didn't have on-site OSHA/Safety inspectors like we do...


----------



## winston

Not saying this is what you have but this is what happens when using starting fluid on these engines. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...525981-ym2000-piston-i-think-i-0620091413-jpg


----------



## Bob Driver

winston said:


> Not saying this is what you have but this is what happens when using starting fluid on these engines. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...525981-ym2000-piston-i-think-i-0620091413-jpg


Are you sure?? 4-ring piston and only one of the glans broke? Do you see a possible casting flaw in the left end of that glan failure? Dark area that sorta looks like Florida?

Not saying ether is the right thing to use, but I have had a lot of people send me "failure" pictures over the years for my opinion.

Unusual to see the right failure perpendicular to the glan and the left side "ramp" like that. Notice what may be "beach marks" at the base of the ramp. Sure would like to see that piston under a 20x magnifying glass.....


----------



## cougsfan

winston said:


> Not saying this is what you have but this is what happens when using starting fluid on these engines. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...525981-ym2000-piston-i-think-i-0620091413-jpg


I don't buy that ether was the cause of that either. You guys trying to scare this poor op to death? Granted using starter fluid is not the ideal practice, but it gets done a lot and doesn't explode or even ruin every engine that gets some.


----------



## Bob Driver

"You Guys"?? I used ether to start engines 100's of times and never did any damage, but that was before the days of porcelain tipped glow plugs. I take it you've never had to change the pencil glow plugs on a Power Stroke, or 6.5L GM after someone used ether to start it and "mushroomed" the tips?? Only way to get them out after that is to pull the heads and drill them out. That's when I learned to use WD-40, or PB blaster

Besides, finding a can of ether that wasn't empty when it got really cold, in a big garage with 20 guys on a shift, was like trying to find a Stripper that gives change for a $1 bill.


----------



## winston

I have been following these yanmar forums for a long time and will stick with what I have said. I have not stated he has busted piston lands but have stated it is a good possibility if starting fluid has been used. I can't put a number with it but I have read of it numerous times in the last 10 years. I am not trying to scare anyone, just putting something out there to consider. It may or may not be, simple as that.


----------



## DaveLahti1946

juney.shober said:


> My dad passed along his 1970 something ym155d to me last year. It has been well used for sure, but ran fine. He hadn't been using it very frequently because he now also has some newer and nicer equipment, which is how it came into my possession.
> 
> Anyways, it started running poorly and would stall. I traced the problem to a VERY dirty fuel filter. I also found some sludge in the radiator, flushed all that and refilled it, changed the oil and filter, adjusted the valves, and have it a good cleaning.
> 
> I know after replacing the fuel filter I need to bleed the fuel lines. I believe I have done that satisfactorily. I have fuel streaming out of the screws above the filter, I let the one above the fuel pump run out a bit, and loosened the screws on the injectors as per the walkthrough on the Hoye website. In fact I've done all that twice now because it still won't start.
> 
> The tractor will turn over fine. I took the battery to an auto parts store and they said it's in fine shape, so I don't think that's the problem.
> 
> I tested things with the air filter off to see if that made a difference, but it didn't. I also tried removing the exhaust manifold, and same thing.
> 
> There's fuel in the tank, seems to fuel in the lines, I'm pretty sure I did the valves correctly (again, followed the Hoye walkthrough), seems to be getting air... Why won't it start?
> 
> My thoughts are the injectors themselves are clogged. The other thing could be the pump but, fuel comes out of the injectors when I crank. Could it be low compression? Did I just screw up the valve clearances? Any other ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


On my Perkens the fuel tank must be darn near full at least enough so the return line from the pump is submerged in fuel . If not it can not be air bled correctly


----------



## bmaverick

juney.shober said:


> Here's a pic of the tractor and my 'assistants'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


Jup over to the Manual section here on these forums to get the Yanmar Diesel Fuel Injection Service Manual. 
https://www.tractorforum.com/manuals/categories/cut-size-tractors.11 

Then on page-2 of that link get the *YM155 PARTS CATALOG *

*Snag the Yanmar 135 - 155 Service Manual & Yanmar 135 - 155 Parts Catalog as well. *

I would concur with Winston, starting fluid over the years is not good for either Yanmars, Cub Cadets or John Deere Compact tractors. It's been WIDELY discussed on many of the tractor forums.


----------



## bmaverick

And, if none of those manuals get you going, then the I&T YM-1 is the very last resort.
https://www.clymer.com/yanmar-i-t-shop-service-manual-ym-1

I&T Shop Manuals *Yanmar *YM135, YM135D*, YM155, YM155D, *YM195, YM195D, YM240, YM240D, YM330 and YM330D manual.
Includes wiring diagrams for all models.
It only has 64 pages. The I&T manual covers 2T73A, *2TR13A*, 2T84A, 2TR20A-X and 3T84A or 3T84A-LP. YM135 YM135D YM155 YM155D YM195 YM195D YM24 YM24D YM33 Yanmar I&T Shop Manual 

Wonder where I cut-n-pasted this from Winston.


----------



## Vic Bunn

cougsfan said:


> I think adjusting the valves is not going to solve your problem. They may or may not need adjusted, but I seriously doubt that is what is keeping it from starting. Older diesels can be particularly hard to start if you have opened the fuel system, even if you have followed the bleeding instructions. There is air in there somewhere and you just have to get it out.
> My first recommended solution would be to tow it to start it if you can. Drag it around with another piece of equipment at a very moderate speed in second gear. I have done that with my Ferguson TO35 with good success when it has lost it's prime and wont start.
> My second solution some people may holler about is to use some starting fluid. Starting fluid over-applied can break piston rings, so be careful. Just spray a a small dab down the intake ("Psst", not "Psssssst") and try to start it using full throttle. Don't crank the starter over 5 seconds or so at a whack. Stop and let the starter cool off. Keep a charger hooked up to the battery while doing this.
> I Another thing that will help is to get things as warm as possible before trying to start it. Cold diesel does't fire off as easy as warm diesel does


Just curious---in 1958 my boss bought a new Ferguson 35 & I broke it in. It ran on gas. Am I thinking wrong someplace?

Vic


----------



## pogobill

Vic,
In 1958, the tractor would have been a Ferguson TO-35 and it came with either gas or diesel. According to Tractordata.com, the TO-35 ended production with the introduction of the Massey Ferguson 35 in 1960. A little name change, but you are correct that a gas engine was available! In fact the Continental 2.2 L gas engine was used in both models, although modified for the new tractor.


----------



## bmaverick

Vic Bunn said:


> Just curious---in 1958 my boss bought a new Ferguson 35 & I broke it in. It ran on gas. Am I thinking wrong someplace?
> 
> Vic


Vic, Ford did the same thing. Gas or diesel within the same model number. Before getting my Yanmar, I had found a Ford 3000. I thought they were ALL gas/petrol. Nope, not that one. It was diesel right from the factory. Sort of wacky if you ask me. Why not name it the Ford 3500 or something. http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/5/259-ford-3000-engine.html


----------



## Qcumber guy

Greetings,
With the gear ratio on the Yanmar, it would imho do much more damage to try and tow it than a squirt of ether!!!


----------



## bmaverick

Qcumber guy said:


> Greetings,
> With the gear ratio on the Yanmar, it would imho do much more damage to try and tow it than a squirt of ether!!!


The YM155 is gear driven and not a power-shift. Thus, in mid to high gear, a tow at low speed 8mph would get it going as it's only a 2-cly. The YM155 domestic and the YM1300 gray are very much being almost identical. It has 6 forward gears. 

The trick to tow start is, using an ATV works just fine. Just get enough rope/chain, have the tractor in gear, but the foot on the clutch, let the tow vehicle get things moving on a long flat drive, pull up the clutch to turn the engine, once running, push the clutch back down to let the YM155 idle. 

I've started both tractors and even stick-shift vehicles with a tow, pushing or on a slope down a driveway. The main thing is knowing how to do it right.


----------



## juney.shober

I'm pretty familiar with bump/tow starting. I've had to start my car that way more than once and I've lost count how many times I've dinner it on motorcycles. It's been pretty wet around here though, so I'll need to wait until they ground firms up a bit.

Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


----------



## pogobill

juney.shober said:


> I'm pretty familiar with bump/tow starting. I've had to start my car that way more than once and I've lost count how many times I've *dinner* it on motorcycles. It's been pretty wet around here though, so I'll need to wait until they ground firms up a bit.
> 
> Sent from my LM-Q710.FGN using Tapatalk


You must have been a bit hungry when you replied!!


----------



## juney.shober

I haven't updated this thread in a while so I figured it's time...

Tried bump starting and got some whitish smoke out the pipe, but it didn't fire up. That was a month or two ago, do the details on exactly how it behaved are fuzzy.

Anyways, I've been working my way down the line so to speak. I bled the fuel line at the filter, where the line goes into the pump, and at the end of the lines where they go into the injectors. I read somewhere that it's supposed to be a stream, but I am getting spurts alternating between the lines (which makes more sense to me than a stream) 

I attached a video of the diesel coming out of the lines. If it isn't viewable, let me know and I'll just upload it to YouTube.

Anyways, I also ordered the injector puller from Hotel and... Pulled the injectors. No fuel whatsoever is coming out of the injectors. I thought maybe priming them was the problem.

I loosened the nuts a little and cranked the motor over a bit until I saw diesel dripping out between the threads. Tightened things up again but still no fuel spray through the injectors.

Tried soaking the injectors in diesel and cleaning the tips with a toothpick and putting it all back together but still no progress.

So a couple of questions: what is a better way to clean the injectors? Should I just buy new ones? I noticed in the manual it says to keep the front and rear injectors separate and not mix them up. Oops. I was explaining to my gf how it's supposed to work and Matt have swapped them... I also noticed on the Hour site there's no specification for if you are buying the front or rear, so does it matter?

Also, I noticed there is no compression with the injectors removed. Is that how it's supposed to be? I'm used to old carbureted motorcycles so I guess it's like the spark plug is out, except the injectors aren't in the top of the cylinder... 

Again, any tips, advice, or explanations of what I did wrong are accepted and welcomed!https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5eac6a8da21e3/VID_20200501_141525.mp4

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## winston

There is nothing wrong with the amount of fuel coming out in your video. Why you cannot get any through your injectors is a mystery to me. Those injectors pop open at a little over 2200psi. The pump should put out about 4250 psi. I have not heard of a stuck injector before but can't say it is impossible. Assuming you have throttle wide open while doing this test??


----------



## juney.shober

Yep. All the way forward. My only guess is maybe I didn't prime then correctly?


winston said:


> There is nothing wrong with the amount of fuel coming out in your video. Why you cannot get any through your injectors is a mystery to me. Those injectors pop open at a little over 2200psi. The pump should put out about 4250 psi. I have not heard of a stuck injector before but can't say it is impossible. Assuming you have throttle wide open while doing this test??


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## winston

Possible, do your priming with the compression release engaged to lesson strain on the starter. https://www.hoyetractor.com/bleed.htm


----------



## bmaverick

juney.shober said:


> I haven't updated this thread in a while so I figured it's time...
> 
> Anyways, I also ordered the injector puller from Hoye [sic] and... Pulled the injectors. No fuel whatsoever is coming out of the injectors. I thought maybe priming them was the problem.
> 
> So a couple of questions: what is a better way to clean the injectors? Should I just buy new ones?


To clean injectors, have the spray tip end sitting in a solution of seafoam. And this should be done in an ultrasonic cleaner. Run for 10 mins and inspect the injector and the seafoam if it's doing the job. The seafoam should have particles or an oily film. IF still clogged, run for another 15 mins. 

Do this cleaning OUTSIDE with seafoam like a shop or garage. 

If you need a cheap machine ... 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...er-20&linkId=a80dec5191b5b7aa7cef960d329ed4eb

https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-P...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B007Q2M17K


----------



## juney.shober

Alright. Ultrasonic cleaner purchased. Several rounds for both injectors. I took them apart into 4 pieces each: the two large metal housing pieces and the two finer machined pieces that go down towards the head. They definitely look a lot cleaner on the outside at least. I hooked them back up and bled them. It looks like I'm getting a good mist at least now (see video). However when I plugged them back in to the head, I managed to snap a stud. I guess the 65 lb ft out torque was either wrong or my torque wrench is out of spec. .:sigh:.

I tried starting anyways, but no dice. I guess it's not surprising if one cylinder had no compression. So... Replace the broken stud... And soldier on...https://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5eb47562cd864/VID_20200507_164052.mp4

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## winston

I read in the service manual same thing you did about 65 ft lbs torque. That has to be a misprint. I believe those are m8 x 70 studs. If so, the 7t stud torque should be 17-22 ft lbs, 4t stud torque should be 9 -12 ft. lbs. I would believe those to be 7t grade but have no way of knowing.


----------



## juney.shober

Yeah I was on the phone with Hoye, and they confirmed it, so I agree. It must be a misprint. 

I have a couple of long m8 1.25 bolts that are just about exactly the right length... Hmmmmm

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


----------



## willy81

I would suggest to set the valves when you know TDC on #1 cylinder as if the valves are not closed
you will never get your critter to START!

willy


----------



## bmaverick

willy81 said:


> I would suggest to set the valves when you know TDC on #1 cylinder as if the valves are not closed
> you will never get your critter to START!
> 
> willy


This thread is soooooo old. Not sure why you replied to it.


----------



## willy81

sorry didn't see the date


----------



## winston

Your not the first to do that, I too, and many others have done the same. 😁


----------

