# Ford 3000 diesel key position to activate intake heater



## MotionMachineVA (Jan 6, 2016)

Sorry for the rookie question but I've researched this and found conflicting info. New to me 1969 3000 with no dash, gauges, or indicator lights. I did my test oil pressure gauge on it, 62 lbs hot. Previous clueless owner just had a new intake heater installed so I assume it works. It was 34 degrees today and it started, although with difficulty My question is where do I position the key and do I leave it on for 30 seconds or so? The switch has 2 positions plus the spring loaded start position. I have the large Ford service manual but cannot find start procedure.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

There were different key switches available. Some you turn to the left and hold it.
Some switches are to the right and go off, on, heater, then way to the right to start.
You will need to use a VOM and do a bit of testing to figure out what yours is.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

While trying to figure it out.. remember to push the key IN..
Some u HAVE TO push the key IN to turn it to the LEFT..
I simple test lite will tell u what u need to know..{when ur getting power}


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## MotionMachineVA (Jan 6, 2016)

Thanks for the replies, I'll put a voltmeter across it to be sure. What about a dwell time, is a 30 second hold necessary when it's in the 20's for instance?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

There was a question about THAT a few weeks ago.. someone put the engine manual UP TOP in the manuals section.. as to the "proper" procedure..
Just go to the top of the page & look under "manuals"..
EVERYBODY has their own way but not to many people know the correct way..
LEARN the PROPER way & THEN u can take short cuts..
20-30 "sounds about right",, Lol


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

MotionMachineVA said:


> ...The switch has 2 positions plus the spring loaded start position. I have the large Ford service manual but cannot find start procedure.


It seems like you have a key switch for a gasoline tractor, see attached picture.
If so, you are not able to control the Thermostart device in a proper manner, with the key.
Perhapds the previous owner used a separate switch when pre-heating and starting?

There is an Owner's Handbook under "Manuals":
https://www.tractorforum.com/manuals/ford-2000-3000-4000-5000-operators-service-manual.2/
Page H8 (pdf page 48)

This is better:
http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals... and LCG Tractors 2000,3000,4000,and 5000.pdf 
Page 14 (pdf page 20)


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Look around for a push button.. I've seen MANY MANY Fords rigged like that..
U could follow the wire BACK FROM the thermostart & see where it goes..
IF u wanna start the engine, just PULL THE intake rubber hose..
& apply 12v from the battery w/ a jumper wire.. & WATCH inside the intake for the fire to start.. then turn the key to spin the motor..
& ALWAYS ALWAYS make sure its in neutral.. number 1..
#2> put the throttle 1/2 to full wide open throttle..
#3>> MAKE SURE the shut off lever is in the run position..
& just because the knob is pushed in.. doesn't mean its in the run position on the inj. pump top cover..
LOOK & SEE if the shut off lever is actually in the run position.. LONG LEG towards the radiator..
Good luck


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Once it starts, pull the wire off the thermo..
Pull the throttle back to low idle.. if it shuts off.. do it all again..
THIS TIME>> SLOWLEY pull the throttle back to low idle.. till it runs & doesn't shut off..
The low idle screw may need adjusting so u can THROW IT to low idle & not have it shut off.. 
Its just a simple turn of a screw on the pumps top cover.. 2- 5/16 wrenches will do the trick.. 1 to loosen & hold the nut & 1 to turn the screw.. & give it a few test runs, hi to low.. & when ur happy w/ the LI speed, lock the nut down..


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## MotionMachineVA (Jan 6, 2016)

Thanks for all the replies, lots to consider. I should have added that the model/serial number says this is a utility tractor, not ag or industrial. I've only owned it for 2 weeks so not very familiar with all it's quirks yet. Dug up several stumps and moved a bunch of dirt so far and only blew 2 hoses! I planned on changing them all after I did a few projects that I bought the thing for i the first place, but I didn't quite make it.
I was not aware of the free downloads on manuals, I'll do that. I will investigate the heater situation tonight when I get home and file a full report tomorrow.


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## MotionMachineVA (Jan 6, 2016)

Yes, new heater was installed, but there's no wire hooked to it. That's because there is no wire anywhere to hook to it. No wonder it starts hard when it's cold. Went to pull the key switch out so I can check the voltage there but the key will not come out so I can't remove it. I'll order the correct switch and wire it up properly. Like I said, working out the bugs from previous hacks.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I think you will find it impossible to find the correct key switch. The suppliers offers a type that was fitted to later models. They work in a different way, se attached picture.







Why would you like current flowing from battery to a loudspeaker?...

Anyhow, note that the Thermostart function is always activated during the starting sequence with this type of switch. When you do not need to pre-heat, you just go pass position 4, immediately to position 5. Thermostart is activated as long as you crank. Always.

With this arrangement you have a situation where you definitely never should use start spray, gasoline soaked rag or anything else flammable to try to help!

If I had this type of key switch, I would use a separate switch between the key switch and Thermostart to shut the function off when not needed.


The Thermostart can, by time, start leaking fuel even when it is not electrically activated. Apart from disturbing the engine firing, the situation may lead to soot buildup on piston tops. Eventually the buildup can crack a piston when it hits the cylinder head.


This is just me:
You probably have a reservoir below the filler cap on the fuel tank. Thermostart is fed from that reservoir. Put an inline petcock on the line from the reservoir to the Thermostart. That way you can open for fuel only at cold starts, and have it shut off when it is not needed. You can easily reach for it under the hood.

I try to minimize the currents going through switches. At least key switches, there are usually just small bearing balls and thin brass strips in there to handle the currents, and they are accompanied with grease and dirt. Therefore I use a relay for a load like Thermostart.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

MotionMachineVA said:


> Yes, new heater was installed, but there's no wire hooked to it. That's because there is no wire anywhere to hook to it. No wonder it starts hard when it's cold. Went to pull the key switch out so I can check the voltage there but the key will not come out so I can't remove it. I'll order the correct switch and wire it up properly. Like I said, working out the bugs from previous hacks.


I have a gas key switch on my 3000 diesel. No thermostart function on it. I ran a wire from the power in terminal on it to a heavy amp push button on the dash. Then to then TS plug.
When/if I want to use the TS I just use the push button.
I rarely use it though. I have a block heater in mine. Plug it in for an hour or so and it will start like it's july.


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## MotionMachineVA (Jan 6, 2016)

Again, great info, much appreciated. I have to re-wire the entire thing anyway. The instrument panel is gone, replaced by a custom fit piece of 1/8" aluminum. I'm undecided on replacing it with an aftermarket one or just install my own oil/temp gages and an ammeter. Maybe there are opinions on these units and associated available wiring kits that I see online? I'm also considering a block heater, assuming I can get to a freeze plug. One kit I saw (Yesterdays Tractors) screws into a pipe thread core plug. I haven't looked this tractor over enough yet to see if that plug is accessible. Has anyone used that kit or is the typical freeze plug kit better?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I would use a hose heater. No messing with the core plugs, and easy to replace.

I do not really understand the benefits of having an amperemeter on a tractor. What useful information does it give, apart from when it does not show anything? Then you know something is wrong with the charging, or the meter. Charging problems are indicated by a charging light in a good way.

I would give a voltmeter a higher priority. You will get information about the battery voltage before and after a start sequence, the charging voltage during work, the voltage the battery gets at rest and you can check how the voltage varies under different loads. With a voltmeter you can see early signs when the battery or charging is going bad, and take measures before you get stuck.


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## MotionMachineVA (Jan 6, 2016)

Turns out this tractor already has a freeze plug type heater in it, now that I've looked. So I just need to find a cord to fit. Maybe that old Fry-O-Lator in the basement might have the same plug.


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