# No traction



## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

I need information about different rear weight to add. I’ve been picking up gravel with loader on a MF 255 and have had several scares and just digging holes with rear wheels where I don’t want holes. The Massey has a big loader bucket and picking up gravel and going down hills is hair raising, going sideways on a hill almost made tip sideways, and going up a hill results in spinning tires digging more holes. How much weight does filled tire add ? Looking at wheel weights I haven’t been impressed because they don’t add much at all. Currently I have a pile of gravel at end of road that I simply cannot pick up and spread because I cannot get back up the hill on the gravel I put down. I saw on Craigslist 50 gallon drums loaded with concrete and a three point attachment. That weight seems it may be enough but they don’t list the weight.
Suggestions ?


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## Captain Mal (Jul 15, 2020)

You able to lock both rear wheels together?

My old Ford could lock those wheels together and dig out of some nasty spots. Always afraid to go up steep hills. Get turned around for any reason and you roll. I rolled a JD 650 once with a guy standing on the back mower deck. Roll bar stopped that tractor from rolling over us as we were both thrown off below the tractor. Barely stopped is what I might add.

Another thought is take less of a scoop and cut the front weight down a bit.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Loki, can you cube the 50 gallon drum and then find out how much of equal concrete the cubage would weigh, I know it would do the job you would want it to do, if you had a welder, you could knock something up out of scrap steel and you could use scrap steel for weight to cut costs.

Don't you have any 3 point implements handy?, if so, hook one onto the 3 point, many ways to get weight onto the rear of the tractor, even a carryall with concrete blocks on it would do the job and the easiest to setup.


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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

The heaviest implement I have is the bush hog, it’s new but I haven’t used it yet. Plus it wouldn't do double duty like if had bucket scrapper with suit case weights on it, I can drag it and smooth out the gravel. It has done a great job smoothing the dirt road. Not that I need to do double duty at once. 
I’ve noticed to shift on a hill it has to be in low setting, which has no engine braking, high does have engine breaking but cannot shift with strain of trans like on hill. I have not figured out how to lock both wheels, I’ve almost been stuck in mud with one tire sunk to axle, but reverse got me out. I felt pretty stupid when that happened. Get tractor stuck and what is there to pull it out. My 4 wheel drive truck ? Probably tractor to heavy plus I’m alone. I could just leave it there and get a neighbor to help. They have tractors but theirs are sub compact, they gave up spreading because mine made short work of it. I may try the bush hog, it’s very heavy.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Are your rear tires juiced? That is the cheapest most effective ballast.

Not familiar with that tractor or size of rear tires on that model. If your in a pinch and not in freezing temp you can just add water for now with a simple hose adapter from tractor supply. Put tires with valve stems up top, remove the inner stem and fill em up. Plenty of youtubes on how to do it, but may wanna jack on side up to keep tire from popping the seal when ya let air out.

If you are in freezing zone, you will need to drain em and add beets juice or another solution with water to prevent freezing....no the salt though cuz it will rust the rims.

You really need ballast so you dont flip...that's serious dangerous on hills


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

https://www.messicks.com/blog/post/Liquid-Tire-Ballast-Chart.aspx

Above is a chart that shows weight that your size tire will have added by water ballast.....your tractor will have a 16.9x24 or 26 if I looked it up correct....adding water will be around 550lbs per rear tire, so around 1100 lbs of low ballast.

That plus hanging an implement on back will serve ya well.


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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

Wow, that is serious weight, no to answer if filled already. I like that idea. I’m in WV so yes freezing weather, where does one get Beet juice ?


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

maybe you should have started carrying the gravel to the top and working your way back down, never mind, water in the tyres will help a lot, I would also connect the slasher/bush hog, this will sit at least 3 feet on the end of the lower links from the drive axles, so you can imagine the torque loading that the slasher would place on the drive line.

your hill must be steep for the tractor to wheel slip, the diff lock pedal will be behind either your right heel or your left heel, you can't miss it, please don't try and engage this if the wheels are slipping, otherwise you will do damage to the differential internals.

most importantly, be very careful on that slope, especially if you don't have a ROPS.


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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

That must be what that broken cast iron peddle is for. I wondered what that did. Time to get that fixed. Thanks
I found a guy who makes 50 gallon steel drums filled with concrete and has three point steel hook up. He will paint it MF red, it’s 1200 lbs at 600 dollars. I told him to make me one. No doubt tractors deserve respect. I’m learning every time I get on it, it’s a beast. This is WV and where I’m at yes a little hilly but not real bad, though I say that and I’m driving a 4x4 truck. 
funny the other day I’m getting a load of gravel and a tiny car came in the back way, that way is better since I took bucket scraper several times, but one spot is solid rock and very steep, I just looked at the car wondering how on earth. They must have bottomed out on that rock lol


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

Personally I'd rather fill the tires, but you've got to stand by your word once given, and you'll likely want both with all the weight you have sticking out the front.


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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

Yes, and the steel drum will be tucked up close to rear, this beast is already tough to turn around on a road. 
I like what you said about honor, I believe in that also. Word given is kept. I’ve had a few people in life who have said one thing and then backed out for no good reason. Maddening.


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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)




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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

The guy-Ray is name makes these as a hobby, turns out lives pretty close, found him on Craigslist. We spoke and he had several options. I was thinking steel drum but he was saying the steel can rust and be dented if back into obstruction. He has white plastic food grade drums also so I said I would take the plastic. I especially like how it fits close to back of tractor.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

when you finally receive this, when you mount the counter weight, make sure the anti sway chains are tight to prevent sway, you wouldn't want that weight slopping side to side on your hills.

Ray sure has a good hobby, easy way to get a bit of pocket money.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Yep.....honestly that's alot of money for can of concrete in my opinion. To each their own I know, but that's more than they would charge to fill those tires with non freezing beets juice, which is heavier than water and provides more and better ballast. 

By better I mean the tire juice ballast, besides being cheaper, is always there...throws weight farther out to widest point of tractor.

Yes its ballast and will help, but that 800 lbs doesnt equal the 1200 to 1300 lbs of juice at the tire. Additionally, it only serves one purpose of weight.....personally, if I was going for 3pt ballast, I would get a carry box that I load up with block weight if needed or use as a carryall for tools etc.

If your up north...the local dealers on east coast will turn you on to this tire juice product.....I'm in south and will be adding a water and eco friendly antifreeze to mine before winter..my use will be ballast for hauling 1000 to 1200 lb round bales. I dont need the antifreeze for cold, but it has anti corrosive properties so I dont rust out the rims....I know it would take 20 to 30 years to rust thru with straight water and I likely will be riding a rocker by then, but the kiddo will have it to use.


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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

The can will weigh 1200 lbs, and the steel is weld together inside the can for the three point hook up. It’s $2 a pound. It will take him a week to finish it. It’s all good, I wonder being this close to Wash DC is prices aren’t inflated as compared to further out. I have definitely noticed how expensive even used equipment is, never mind new. I like new but I feel I’m not worried about looks with a tool, and if it will stand up just as well as new, I’m good.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Loki said:


> The can will weigh 1200 lbs, and the steel is weld together inside the can for the three point hook up. It’s $2 a pound. It will take him a week to finish it. It’s all good, I wonder being this close to Wash DC is prices aren’t inflated as compared to further out. I have definitely noticed how expensive even used equipment is, never mind new. I like new but I feel I’m not worried about looks with a tool, and if it will stand up just as well as new, I’m good.


It will be good ballast...just head what has been suggested and make sure side links are secured tight to avoid wobble....also, which that ballast weight being dead center, keep it low as possible and it will be a straight up and down trip on the hills....obviously you want to keep bucket low too...while you will have down weight it will not be on the edges so be mindful of you angles on the slopes. LOW and SLOW

I actually would like that drum weight more if he rigged it up sideways....that would throw the weight that much wider and lower...if he would throw a piece of drill stem threw center with roller sucker rod you could use it as a roller too....a Fred Flintstone wheel

Just be careful, cuz a bucket of gravel ain't worth serious injury


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

TX MX5200 said:


> It will be good ballast...just head what has been suggested and make sure side links are secured tight to avoid wobble....also, which that ballast weight being dead center, keep it low as possible and it will be a straight up and down trip on the hills....obviously you want to keep bucket low too...while you will have down weight it will not be on the edges so be mindful of you angles on the slopes. LOW and SLOW
> 
> I actually would like that drum weight more if he rigged it up sideways....that would throw the weight that much wider and lower...if he would throw a piece of drill stem threw center with roller sucker rod you could use it as a roller too....a Fred Flintstone wheel
> 
> Just be careful, cuz a bucket of gravel ain't worth serious injury


 Although you have ordered the barrel weight, have u thought what will u do when you need an implement on? The SOLUTION is salt water in your tires! A barrel of water and a 50 lb. bag of ordinary, cheapest you can find,(NaCl) salt will give you anti freeze to 10 below zero and appx 500 pounds of ballast. Your MF 255 rear tires will likely hold a barrel and a half each. This solution WILL NOT rust your wheels, rusting (oxidizing) needs oxygen and only a tiny bit will be inside your tires which would take probably 50 years to even show rust on your PAINTED wheels. Another plus why liquid tire ballast is preferred is that there is NO WEIGHT whatsoever on your wheel bearings and your 3 point hitch! Better braking and traction too.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

deerhide said:


> Although you have ordered the barrel weight, have u thought what will u do when you need an implement on? The SOLUTION is salt water in your tires! A barrel of water and a 50 lb. bag of ordinary, cheapest you can find,(NaCl) salt will give you anti freeze to 10 below zero and appx 500 pounds of ballast. Your MF 255 rear tires will likely hold a barrel and a half each. This solution WILL NOT rust your wheels, rusting (oxidizing) needs oxygen and only a tiny bit will be inside your tires which would take probably 50 years to even show rust on your PAINTED wheels. Another plus why liquid tire ballast is preferred is that there is NO WEIGHT whatsoever on your wheel bearings and your 3 point hitch! Better braking and traction too.


Well said Deerhide.
Whacha gonna do when you want to put an implement on the 3 point or use the drawbar? Ballasting a tractor is done as much for stability as it is for traction. For a tractor that gets used for many things - mowing, plowing, discing, pulling a trailer, rototilling, as well as loader work a 3 point weight is Not the answer.
I also have never liked those barrels of concrete. You have created an artifact that will not go away. 100 years from now it will still be laying in a hedgerow or buried somewhere because the mix of concrete and steel makes it so the steel cant be recycled and the concrete can't be crushed/reused. 
I think making one of those things is very short sighted.
If you're gonna have a 3 point weight despite their limited useability, at least make it so it can be recycled down the line.
If I had a tractor that was used exclusively for loader work I would consider a 3 point weight but I would make it with an eye to posterity. For a tractor that needs ballast for multiple uses fluid in the tires or wheel weights is the the best solution.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

All good points, but to each his own. I've thought of a barrel at one point, but I don't do a lot of loader work, and my land is flat. I have a lot of trails in the woods that are quite uneven and the tipping of the tractor back and forth a little as I travel would have the barrel creating more problems than not. 
I have wheel weights and load my bucket accordingly.


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## RedDirtFarmer (Jul 14, 2020)

Loki said:


> I have not figured out how to lock both wheels, I’ve almost been stuck in mud with one tire sunk to axle, but reverse got me out. I felt pretty stupid when that happened. Get tractor stuck and what is there to pull it out. My 4 wheel drive truck ? Probably tractor to heavy plus I’m alone. I could just leave it there and get a neighbor to help. They have tractors but theirs are sub compact, they gave up spreading because mine made short work of it. I may try the bush hog, it’s very heavy.


In regards to getting stuck, if you have a bucket on the front of the tractor you can use it to work yourself out of almost any situation when you are stuck. Tip the bucket down, dig it into the ground a little and then use the hydraulics in conjunction with going in forward or reverse, whatever the situation calls for. I've never gotten stuck where I couldn't get out when I had a bucket on the front.


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

OK, I'm going to disagree with a few of the posters on here.
Do NOT liquid fill your tires, bolt on cast iron weights are not cheap but will provide more traction then liquid filling. As far as liquid filling you had better make sure that the freeze point is well below what ever your lowest ambient temperature will be, any ice or slush in that tube will shred it and what could be more fun then repairing a wet frozen tire.
Liquid filling is one of the least expensive ways to add weight it is my last option, period.
I mounted 1200#'s of iron to my Branson 8050, all of the tractors over on the farm have been switched away from liquid fill.









The cost and time and labor of repairing a liquid filled tire as compared to air filled more then covers bolt on weights in my opinion.
Not to mention the differences in ride, better with air then liquid. Also when roading the tractor the sloshing of the liquid can cause isues, also when braking the slosh of liquid can push and pull on your tractor.
The only reason for liquid is initial cost.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

LouNY said:


> OK, I'm going to disagree with a few of the posters on here.
> Do NOT liquid fill your tires, bolt on cast iron weights are not cheap but will provide more traction then liquid filling. As far as liquid filling you had better make sure that the freeze point is well below what ever your lowest ambient temperature will be, any ice or slush in that tube will shred it and what could be more fun then repairing a wet frozen tire.
> Liquid filling is one of the least expensive ways to add weight it is my last option, period.
> I mounted 1200#'s of iron to my Branson 8050, all of the tractors over on the farm have been switched away from liquid fill.
> ...


if the goop freezes, it is not going to destroy the wheels


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

It may not destroy the wheels but it will tear the tubes and if the tire is rotated as in the tractor being used it will shred the tube and you will have a sloppy slushy mess to work with while replacing the tube in the cold.


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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

I put my wood chipper on the back for temp ballast. It’s heavy. So now it works great, plenty traction to climb straight up hill carrying full bucket gravel. Now the issue is when I’m fully loaded going up, I’m heavy, and AG tires are leaving tire churned dirt behind. Lol my plan was not to shred the hill, it was just to get gravel further up the road.


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## tstuckart (Jul 7, 2020)

I don't see that anyone else has mentioned it but I know a lot of people like to maneuver with the bucket held up higher than necessary. Traveling with the loaded bucket as close to the ground as possible will significantly increase your stability over keeping it above your front axle.


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## Gary Burk (Feb 4, 2019)

Loki said:


> I need information about different rear weight to add. I’ve been picking up gravel with loader on a MF 255 and have had several scares and just digging holes with rear wheels where I don’t want holes. The Massey has a big loader bucket and picking up gravel and going down hills is hair raising, going sideways on a hill almost made tip sideways, and going up a hill results in spinning tires digging more holes. How much weight does filled tire add ? Looking at wheel weights I haven’t been impressed because they don’t add much at all. Currently I have a pile of gravel at end of road that I simply cannot pick up and spread because I cannot get back up the hill on the gravel I put down. I saw on Craigslist 50 gallon drums loaded with concrete and a three point attachment. That weight seems it may be enough but they don’t list the weight.
> Suggestions ?


 A gallon of concrete weighs about 20.5 lb so 50 gallons would weigh 1025 power plus the weight of the drum and the metal 3-point fixture.


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## Busted Tractor (May 22, 2018)

Don't know what size wheels you have or if they are pressed steel or cast centers. But Massey made cast centers for them that weigh 550 each one on each side would add 1100 lb. If you go to www.agcopartsbooks.com search for 255 tractor, then rear wheels you can get an idea of what size tires and wheels Massey offered. But suggest you visit a salvage yard to see what they are and what is available. By the way Massey used the same bolt pattern on a lot of the utility tractors so you aren't just handicapped to the 255.


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## ufdaland (Feb 25, 2018)

Loki said:


> I need information about different rear weight to add. I’ve been picking up gravel with loader on a MF 255 and have had several scares and just digging holes with rear wheels where I don’t want holes. The Massey has a big loader bucket and picking up gravel and going down hills is hair raising, going sideways on a hill almost made tip sideways, and going up a hill results in spinning tires digging more holes. How much weight does filled tire add ? Looking at wheel weights I haven’t been impressed because they don’t add much at all. Currently I have a pile of gravel at end of road that I simply cannot pick up and spread because I cannot get back up the hill on the gravel I put down. I saw on Craigslist 50 gallon drums loaded with concrete and a three point attachment. That weight seems it may be enough but they don’t list the weight.
> Suggestions ?


I have some weights that I would sell . They are about 100+lbs each .


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## Loki (Apr 28, 2020)

Ballast was picked up yesterday. A dicey affair bringing it home in truck bed. No sudden stops so slow ride. Got it home and lifted out out of truck and it just waiting to be used. Now I need my Lifting arms changed to type 2. I have several implements that are type 2 and tractor is rated for type 2.
The shoe can be changed out easily, just have to buy them. It’s a shoe with revolving eye that slides in and is stay bolted. It will be helpful to have both types.


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