# Huskee Lawn Tractor



## tubejock

Hi, and thanks in advance for any help, I need it!!!

I have a Huskee lawn tractor that has ran flawless for years and years. Just today I had to jump start it with my car. It started and ran fine. I left it running and filled it with gas, while it was running. I then put it on high throttle and and put it in gear and it began blowing smoke out of the front end and its hard to tell where its coming from. It then quit on high throttle, while blowing smoke. I started it up and drove it around the yard at low throttle and it ran fine,it just kept blowing smoke out of the muffler. Then on high throttle, it quit. I checked the oil level and its fine. The majority of the issues seem to be with the muffler area..... Anyone have any ideas??? I'm really in a jam here.


----------



## tubejock

I just went and bought a new plug..... ran great around the yard and then began blowing smoke again..... and quit... WTH???


----------



## tubejock

Most oft the smoke seems to be coming from underneath, where the muffler dumps into the front portion of the front end......


----------



## jhngardner367

Welcome to the forum! Can you post the model # of the tractor,and what engine type/model? It will help greatly.


----------



## tubejock

Sure.... Model number of tractor is '13BM660F131'. Model of the engine is '21000'


----------



## tubejock

Engine is a Briggs and Stratton.... Sorry


----------



## tubejock

I really need some help on this issue...... Can't figure it out..... a new plug, ran great, very little smoke..... drove it around the yard for a minute, turned and it smoked like no tomorrow and quit..... Busted ring? Other engine problem? Expensive fix?


----------



## Bill Kapaun

"Model of the engine is '21000' "
The first 2 digits might be 21 but not ALL the remaining digits are 0's.
Use this link to see how to properly identify the engine-

http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Briggs_And_Stratton/briggsmodelid.html

That said, if it's an OHV engine, I'd suspect a head gasket is on its way out.


----------



## jhngardner367

Huskee has 6 different engines for that model tractor. 3 are twins,and 3 are singles. One is a flat-head,and all the others are Over-head-valve engines.
I would tend to agree with Bill,if it's an OHV,it's most likely a head gasket.


----------



## tubejock

Well, I changed the plug and it fired right back up, smoke and all..... The next day I went to check the compression and I took the plug out and gas poured out...... I checked the compression 115-120lbs of compression. Come to find out there was a breather style tube that connects to the intake of the carburater, well that was plugged and I unplugged it, put everything back together and it seems to run fine, that is after putting in all new oil. It does still smoke a little and its just a little and it be burning it off the inside of the muffler.... I'll mow with it next week and check the oil and see how it acts....


----------



## dangeroustoys56

Good thing you changed the oil- otherwise the motor wouldve self destructed ( gas would thin the oil, gall the berings and throw the rod thru the block) - typically since that happened, youll want to clean and or rebuild the carb- gas shouldnt overflow the carb, the float was still open allowing gas to flow. Another good idea is to get a shutoff valve, to prevent that from happening.


----------



## tubejock

I'm thinking next year I'm buying me a new one...... We'll see..... This has been a great mower. I still am changing the oil after this weeks lawn mow.....

Thanks for everyone's support!


----------



## Bill Kapaun

IF you don't fix the leaking needle & seat in the carb, you may be buying a new one this year.


----------



## tubejock

Well, I thought I had this issue fixed.... it ran great for about 4 mows....and its back to the smoking and not running.... I took the elbow off the carb again and the little hole was plugged again, that I think allows gas to get into the carb. Well, I started it.... let it run for 1/2 hour and it ran fine..... I gave it full throttle and the smoke started and quit. I think its fouling the plug out..... jesus, anyone got any ideas? Model number of the B&S is 283H070197E1. I guess a new motor is $700.00...


----------



## Bill Kapaun

Wow! The engine grew from 21ci to 28ci!

Check the oil for the presence of gasoline to see if the carb needle & seat is leaking through and diluting the oil.

Download the IPL from the Briggs website so you can use the correct terminology when referring to a part.
I have absolutely no clue by what you mean when you took the "elbow" off the carb.

If gas isn't in the oil, then I still suspect you have a head gasket problem.


----------



## tubejock

Sorry, I was all wrong with the CC up front..... and gas is in the oil.... in fact its mostly gas now....

For the elbow, this is the plastic part that runs from the the air cleaner to the carb and there is a small (maybe the size of a dime) that runs into this 'elbow'. As for compression, I have good compression 115-120lbs.

You make mention of the carb needle and seat..... Could this be the issue? Would be an east fix for a novice mechanic?


----------



## Bill Kapaun

Of course it's THE ISSUE.
Repair is pretty simple.
The needle is part# 105 in the IPL.


----------



## tubejock

Got it..... I'll call Tractor Supply tomorrow and order it.... I hope this is the issue..... come to think about it, maybe this has been the issue all along?? A simple carb needle could cause this horrible issue?


----------



## Bill Kapaun

Most likely you just have to clean out the piece of crud that's preventing it from sealing.
No parts required.


----------



## tubejock

Bill, I can't thank you enough for the help. I think I am going to call to see about a carb rebuild kit. My father in-law is going to come over and help me with the rebuild. Do you have a link for the B&S IPL? I can't seem to find it for my engine.....

Thanks again....


----------



## Bill Kapaun

Use 283H07-0197-E1 as found on the engine!


----------



## tubejock

Think I have it...

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=briggs_and_stratton&mn=283H07-0197-E1&dn=54490004

Part #105.....Maybe some carb cleaner will work as well?


----------



## TecumsehBriggs

A dirty carb will kill an engine quicker than you can say, "Wee Willy's Wheelhorse went wickedly wacky while working windward".

Carbs are easy to rebuild. Take it apart; clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner & compressed air: replace the needle valve, seat (if equipped)and float; install new gasket; install carb onto engine; adjust mixture & speed.

You can get away cheap by just cleaning out the carb & blowing compressed air through all the passages (as long as the seat of the old needle valve is still good; some have a rubber tip that deteriorates over time), then install a fuel shutoff valve between the fuel tank & carb (before the fuel filter so you can change it without spilling too much gas). Make sure you close the fuel shutoff before you shut your engine off to drain the fuel from the system. No more gas flowing into your crankcase. Just remember to open the valve when you go to start it next time.

BTW, here are some things that are necessary for small engine/lawn equipment maintenance:
>fresh oil
>fresh gas
>new fuel filters
>new fuel line
>new spark plugs
>an air compressor with impact wrench & sockets, air hammer, angle die grinder with assorted sanding/grinding discs
>basic hand tools, including sockets/ratchet & extensions
>wrenches
>Torx bits
>Allen wrenches
>battery charger
>work bench
>a vise
>grinding wheel & a file
>big hammer
>access to information regarding your specific engine/equipment


----------



## tubejock

Well, I have fresh oil in it now. My father in-law is coming over tomorrow to take the carb apart and we'll use carb cleaner. I called Tractor Supply and a rebuild kit is $60.00 and I can order one on line is $25.00..... I can't get the rebuild kit here in time, I just want to find out what the issue is.

Here's what baffles me..... 4 or so weeks ago I had this issue, all I did was a little cleaning and it ran fine for 4 weeks..... now the same problem exists.... Maybe something is in the carb, causing it to pour raw gas into the crankcase. When I drained the oil it was all gas......and I mean alot of gas..... not a normal 40ozs.... it was alot...

So, tomorrow night will be the test, we'll take the carb off and clean it..... if that is the case in fact, I can buy a rebuild kit and have it drop shipped overnight. Sound like a plan?


----------



## tubejock

One more thing.... there is an electrical connection on the bottom of what I call the 'bowl'..... and the past few times I've had to jump start it, either with a power pack or my car..... these 2 problems have happened each time..... could this me an electrical issue? Bill..... are you out there????? Can you assist?


----------



## Bill Kapaun

That's the carb fuel solenoid.
All it does is block the Main Jet and shut off fuel flow THROUGH the carb when the key is OFF to prevent afterfire.
It does NOTHING related to your problem, which would exist, solenoid or not.

You say you changed the oil?
Does that mean the new oil is getting diluted with gas as we speak?
You might want to take a rag & C clamp or something and pinch off the fuel line.


----------



## tubejock

Nope, as of right now, nothing is being done. I changed the oil to fresh, got just about most of the gas out of the crankcase. I'm waiting for tomorrow, when my father in-law come over to tear the carb apart..... I got a fresh can of carb cleaner as well. I used brake cleaner on the rest of the block as well to clean the gunk off it....

I'm hoping its something carb related and there is just a build up..... Thanks Bill for the help....


----------



## Bill Kapaun

I guess you're missing the point.
Gasoline is running through the carb and down into the crankcase because the needle valve is leaking.
The needle valve works like a toilet valve. Only a toilet has a sewer for the water to go into in case you have a leaky valve. Your engine has a crankcase where it ends up instead of a sewer.
The gas isn't running into the crankcase when the engine is running. The engine would burn the excess, although it may run rich.
It's running into the crankcase when it is sitting with the engine OFF!


----------



## tubejock

Yeah, I guess I am missing the point.... Thanks for clarifying this. You made mention last night that some 'gunk' could be inside the carb, that what tomorrows tear down will tell us..... Then I can order a rebuild kit.


----------



## TecumsehBriggs

TecumsehBriggs said:


> A dirty carb will kill an engine quicker than you can say, "Wee Willy's Wheelhorse went wickedly wacky while working windward".
> 
> Carbs are easy to rebuild. Take it apart; clean it thoroughly with carb cleaner & compressed air: replace the needle valve, seat (if equipped)and float; install new gasket; install carb onto engine; adjust mixture & speed.
> 
> You can get away cheap by just cleaning out the carb & blowing compressed air through all the passages (as long as the seat of the old needle valve is still good; some have a rubber tip that deteriorates over time), then install a fuel shutoff valve between the fuel tank & carb (before the fuel filter so you can change it without spilling too much gas). Make sure you close the fuel shutoff before you shut your engine off to drain the fuel from the system. No more gas flowing into your crankcase. Just remember to open the valve when you go to start it next time.
> 
> BTW, here are some things that are necessary for small engine/lawn equipment maintenance:
> >fresh oil
> >fresh gas
> >new fuel filters
> >new fuel line
> >new spark plugs
> >an air compressor with impact wrench & sockets, air hammer, angle die grinder with assorted sanding/grinding discs
> >basic hand tools, including sockets/ratchet & extensions
> >wrenches
> >Torx bits
> >Allen wrenches
> >battery charger
> >work bench
> >a vise
> >grinding wheel & a file
> >big hammer
> >access to information regarding your specific engine/equipment


I guess none of this was helpful...


----------



## tubejock

Well, I got the carb off....took it apart and held it over a bucket and sprayed carb cleaner all over it and inside it. Then ran it under luke warm water and blew everything out with an air hose. Put everything back together and it runs 'like new'. When I was rinsing it off over the sink.... some **** fell out of it, so that must of been the culprit.....

Thanks for all the help everyone..... It has a fresh plug, fresh gas, a new air cleaner and recently cleaned carb. I'm mowing tomorrow and bagging the grass!!!!!

Jeff


----------



## Bill Kapaun

Keep an eye on the oil for the presence of gas for awhile, just in case.


----------



## tubejock

Hi Bill..... Yes, I planned on checking the oil in a week or so or after 2-3 mows. Also, when I'm mowing I'll keep an eye on the presence of smoke..... in the past it would smoke a little under load, like mowing up a hill.... 

Thanks again!
Jeff


----------



## Bill Kapaun

That's too long!
The smoke is because the oil has been thinned out by the gas so much, it easily get's past the piston rings.
It's closing the barn door after the horse......


----------



## tubejock

Well, last night when we got everything put back together..... it ran great.... at low throttle, high throttle, everything 'seemed' to be fixed.... NOW, tonight I mow and as soon as I engage the blades.... I hear the carb kind of going in and out... It's hard to explain but it 'sounds' like the butterfly is opening and closing.... not a lot, but enough to make it run like it's got a mild street cam in it...... with the blades off, it idles fine.... Keep in mind I did not buy a rebuilt kit as of yet and I think thats my next purchase... I checked the oil and no presence of gas was there, but I did use more gas than normal due to the 'in and out' of the carb.... Could I have a bad seal to the block that I should have replaced?


----------



## Bill Kapaun

It's possible you have a vacuum leak on the intake side.
If you have some carb cleaner left in the spray can, spray some around the intake manifold with the engine running.
IF you have a leak, it should suck some of it in and result in the engine changing speed.

Also make sure your mounting bolts are snug. Sometimes they can loosen a bit after going through a heat cycle.


----------



## tubejock

Oh, thats a good idea.... I will check the bolts and make sure things are tight.... I will also spray carb cleaner around things.....Stay tuned....


----------



## tubejock

Bill, when you say 'intake side'.... you do mean where the carb mounts to the engine? No matter what, I'll buy a fresh can of carb cleaner tomorrow and check the bolts and everything.... Sorry, I'm not much of a mechanic..... Thanks for all the help!

Jeff


----------



## Bill Kapaun

Everything between the carb & engine where a bad gasket or losse bolt could allow air to enter, bypassing the carb.


----------



## tubejock

I thought the 'surging' could come from it running to lean..... and that there's more dirt in the carb? Tomorrow morning I'm taking some carb cleaner to the intake side of the block and seeing if theres a leak.... I'll post back.... Thanks Bill...


----------



## tubejock

Well, I just went down and made sure the bolts were snug where the intake from the carb meet the block and 'carefully' sprayed carb cleaner around where the intake meets the engine..... no change in idle speed. I engaged the blades and had the same issue I had on Thursday with the 'surging'. I looked and noticed the linkage from the carb, back to the, what I call the block or mounting surface was moving back and forth.... I simply bent this 'arm', if you will out towards me a hair and everything cleared up. I ran it around the yard with the blades going and my neighbor was on his deck and said it sounded better then it did on Thursday and it didn't seem to 'surge'. So, from here on out I think I'm good. I'm still going to check the oil before and after I mow for the presence of gas.

Thanks again for all the help....

Jeff


----------

