# 8N Won't start



## fyremn1

Trailered home in the pouring rain my 6 volt 8N tractor and it would not start to get it off trailer. It was running fine when I put it on trailer. Engine turns over. I have replaced spark plugs and points, starter switch. Engine is now very sluggish while turning over and sometimes clicks, but battery reads 6 volts on tester. One day it did start for about 10 seconds and cut off. Anyone has any suggestions?


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## Ken N Tx

Bye..Sorry I am late here...

Did you get it fixed ??


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## stephenscity

Just saw this are ya up and running yet?


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## fyremn1

Ken N Tx said:


> Bye..Sorry I am late here...
> 
> Did you get it fixed ??


No I did not..... Do you have any tips. I replaced the points and condenser. It seems that the rotor button is not staying in place.


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## fyremn1

stephenscity said:


> Just saw this are ya up and running yet?


No I did not..... Do you have any tips. I replaced the points and condenser. It seems that the rotor button is not staying in place. I also bought a new key switch. Wires were rotten on the old one.


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## Argee

Is the battery in good condition and fully charged? I'm thinking maybe a floating short in battery.


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## stephenscity

Have you had the battery load tested? You said you were in the rain and at highway speeds if it got wet it could have shorted it. 
^V would be a little low or weak Should read around 6.3-6.5.First do ya have fuel flow?Pull the drain on the carb and see if ya got a good steady flow. Also not being smart but does it have atleast 2gal of gas in it? Some of these N don't like that last gal.Sounds like your on the right track but I would trace everything before I started replacing parts But I am just tight.Have you tried jumping the starter?Also is this a front or side mt Dizzy?
If ya have a way I would try pulling it to see if that would turn it over and start. Putt it in high gear and get it to about 10 mph.Good Luck keep us posted
?


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## fyremn1

Thank. I did try pulling it but was unsuccessful, but I see that did not have it in the correct gear. And I will try jumping it.


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## fyremn1

My multi-tester is reading 6 volts.


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## duke7595

Put a 12 volt batter in it this will turn it over very quickly. It sounds like your
battery is shorted out.

If you pull start it place the shiftier in 3rd gear. By the way the 12 volt battery
won't hurt your points or condenser it just will not charge.

Also I believe it died after it started because the battery is bad and the 6 volt generator don't have sufficient
output to keep it running. 

The reason I suggested the 12 volt battery is you can take it out of one of your vehicles to see if that's your problem
and won't have to buy a 6 volt until you know for sure.


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## stephenscity

duke7595 said:


> Put a 12 volt batter in it this will turn it over very quickly. It sounds like your
> battery is shorted out.
> 
> If you pull start it place the shiftier in 3rd gear. By the way the 12 volt battery
> won't hurt your points or condenser it just will not charge.
> 
> Also I believe it died after it started because the battery is bad and the 6 volt generator don't have sufficient
> output to keep it running.
> 
> The reason I suggested the 12 volt battery is you can take it out of one of your vehicles to see if that's your problem
> and won't have to buy a 6 volt until you know for sure.


Don't mean to argue but that 6v coil ain't conna like a constant 12V unless you have a resistor on it. And if your charging system is working properly it doesn't need a battery to run!!!If you want to jump ot make sure your throttle is up to turn about 1500 rpm. and jump dirrectly to the starter,bypassing the selonoid.Don't leave that 12v on the system.unless you have a resistor on it.
That's why I asked if it was front or side Dist. FrT Have sides don't.


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## off_ltd

"Engine is now very sluggish while turning over and sometimes clicks, but battery reads 6 volts on tester. One day it did start for about 10 seconds and cut off." 
I had this problem just this spring and with my battery 6 years old, was getting ready to replace it when I notice my ground terminal was cracked and I could not get it tight. I took the terminal post off the copper cable (looked to good to replace, real copper) and replaced it. I have had no problems since, still got that 6 year old battery.


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## stephenscity

6V ond tester doesn't mean battery good. It would have to be tested under load!!!!Why not eliminate this and take it out take it to your auto parts and have it tested?????They don't charge ya to do this!!!


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## fyremn1

Thanks guys I will jump start it at the starter and still have the battery load tested. Also it is a front mount distributor.


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## stephenscity

fyremn1 said:


> Thanks guys I will jump start it at the starter and still have the battery load tested. Also it is a front mount distributor.


I can't help at all on the dist know nothing about those. Know they play by different rule and that means ya do need to keep it pos grd. They dont like switching so I was told. Goog Luck and hope ya find the root of the problem soon!!!!


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## IH48463

Two things. 

1. On the coil/distributor the coil has a spring on the bottom that contactdeds a hollow top brass screw in the top of the distributor. I once had a starting problem and traced it to a corroded screw top. I polished it up and started immediately. You may have gotten water in and corroded the contact.

2. The fuel shut off valve at the filter bowl under the tank my be turned off. It will run awile before starving out.


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## dgray64

I know that it sounds off the wall, but replace the ammeter. I found several old Ford N-models over the years that had shorted out ammeter guages. You couldn't tell by looking, but once they were replaced, the tractors all started, and ran normally. Good luck.

Dave


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## RC Wells

Check your coil. All it takes is a multimeter capable of reading ohms. For a newer six volt coil you will want between 1.43 and 1.58 ohms resistance on the primary windings, if you have the old OEM square coil you will want 2.2 ohms resistance. It makes no difference which prong of the multimeter you touch to the coil terminals, just put one to the ground and one to the hot terminal.

If you have greater resistance than the above, the coil is bad. If you have zero rsistance, the coil is bad.

You can also check the secondary winding by touching one probe of the multimeter to the spark plug terminal, and the second probe to the lead that terminates on the distributor. The resistance there should be between 5000 and 7500 ohms. 

If you have converted to 12 volts, most have, the coil reading should be between 3.1 and 3.5 ohms resistance on the test between the negative and positive terminal studs.

By the way, this is with the battery disconnected.


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## wacoplowboy

I have owned several of these tractors and perhaps I can help.

1. Check that you have fuel at the carburetor. If not clean the sediment bowl and check again.

2. Starter. This starter should have 6 volts at the battery side of the solinoid, there are two wires and a cable on each side. Make sure the cables are clean and tight. The starter cable should read a resistance, check for the oms and if its infinity then work the cable and read the oms again. There should be about a two volt drop at the battery if the starter is ok. On some of these tractors there is resister between the ignition switch and the coil. If you have one look to see if it is burned or broken. If that is the case replace it. Auto zone can test your starter to see if it is drawing too many amps. remove the end plate and check the brushes in the starter. They should be between 1/2 inch and 1/4th inch if they are good, there will be four of these. If the are shorter than 1/4th inch you need new brushes in the starter.

3. Pull you coil wire from the distributor. Is there a spark, if so, then continue. If not check to voltage at the coil. If no voltage there is a short in the hot lead going to the coil. this is where the ignition resister can create you a real problem. It is white and about 1 inch long and usually mounted behind the ignition switch or on the fire wall. Find the short and continue. The short isusually the ignition switch or resister.

4. Open the distributor cap and visually check that the points are opening and closing. Check the gap when open. Should be about 15 thousandth of an inch. If this is ok then replace the cap. If you have a timing light connect it to each plug wire and see if it flashes indicating that spark is coming through each wire. If you don't have a timing light check for spark.

Amp meter. Check that it indicates a discharge when the switch is on and you engage the starter. Some of these tractors use a foot dimmer switch to the left of the gear shift. Is it getting voltage. Does voltage drop when you press it and then return to 6 volts when you release it. If so it is ok and you can go on,

When we load tractors on a trailer we bounce them around a lot. Wires get loose and I suspect that is the case with this tractor.

A starter load tester is about 50.00 from any number of suppliers and o'riley and autozone in my area test them for free.

The voltage drop for the starter should be not more then 2 to 2.5 volts. You can remove the starter and use batteery cables to see if the starter is dragging, going very slowly, or if it turns about 300 rpm or better with no load.


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## derbysammy

Do you have a front mount distributor or side mount?


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## derbysammy

You wrote "I replaced the points and condenser. It seems that the rotor button is not staying in place."

Is the rotor clip in place on the distributor shaft under the rotor cap?

These tractors do not like water. We had the same problem on a side distributor until I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the distributor housing to allow the water and moisture to escape.


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## Sledge740

The front mount distributors are a little bit of a pain. I've had mine off so many times I can do it in the dark and have so I could make it home. I have to remove it to clean out the dust it collects when working a dry field. Make sure the original voltage reducer is good. The original voltage reducer cut voltage from 6 volts down to 3 at the coil after it warmed up. I'm running 12 volts to a single reducer to get 6 volts my coil. I still use a 6 volt coil. Points as long as they are set right don't care what volts they get. I have found the condenser to be the main culprit in almost all of my distributor problems. I had the starter rebuilt about 40 years ago and have been running it on 12 volts ever since. I did replace the brushes myself 3 years ago. If my starter starts dragging down I pull it and clean out the dirt and dust.


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## duke7595

I think the rain has shorted out your starter and it is now dragging, pulling to many amps.
8n starter, if you have a volt meter see what it reads while cranking.


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## Tracdave777

I'm having the same issue with my 8n too. I have changed so many things I'm at a lost for what could be the trouble. I have spark at the plugs and fresh new gas. 
I had issues with it when it was running. When it got hot after 20 mins of use it shuts down. Spits and spuders the shuts down. Now it will not start even with starting fluid. Have cleaned out the tank. Changed plug wires cap rotor and points. Front mount cap. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions besides buy a new tractor. It's 6v was thinking about switching it to 12v.

Thank you 
Dave


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## Vanman08

If it shuts down after 20 minutes it can be a bad coil. They can quit working when they get hot.


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## Tracdave777

I changed the coil too.. my buddy has the same 8n with a side distributor and his shuts down after it gets hot too. We both are scratching our heads on it.


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## Vanman08

When it shuts down, check for a hot spark immediately, before it has a chance to cool. Just because a part is new does not mean it is good. A new distributor cap cost me over $1000 in other parts on a Chevy van a few years ago. The distributor cap was the first item I replaced and the new one was bad. Then the parts changing began.


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