# Ford 2000 - 1974 - gas



## griff (Jul 7, 2014)

Just purhased the tractor, it has an alternator instead of a generator. Did some of these tractors come with alterantors or did someone convert it?

Tks.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Probably converted, normally a 1974 2000 had a generator from factory. However, the 2000 model came in a variety of derivates or chassies, especially those made in Belgium.

How is the connection to the tachometer solved, if any?


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## griff (Jul 7, 2014)

Based on the "C" on the serial # it was made in USA. I got a sinking feeling when I read your question about the tach. Until that moment I hadn't connected the fact that because the generator has been replaced with an alternator I'm not going to know the RPM. I had just assumed the cable or the cluster was bad. 

New question: It has a 3 position ignition switch (off-on-start)? After the engine is started turning the ignition switch to "off" doesn't kill the engine. Is it supposed to? If so, I guess who added the altenator just hot wired it to the coil?

Thanks for your help.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

From factory, the tach cable is driven by the generator through a little gearbox at the end of generator, on an agriculture chassie tractor for instance. Where is that cable end today?
On some highway (and perhaps other) chassies, the tach was driven from the driveline through various arrangements.

When it comes to questions that are specific for a gas tractor I hope someone else will help. Only diesels around here.

"Off" should kill the engine, and the lights in the cluster.
With my little knowledge, it sounds strange to connect the alternator to the coil. 
Look at the diagram from fordsontractorpages.nl (second diagram): http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2963
I would check the connections on the tractor and, if needed, change it back to original. The generator and the generator regulator is obsolete in your case and the proper connections depends on what type of alternator you have.
Usually you connect the alternator battery terminal to the battery post on the starter, just as it was from the generator setup. Here is a picture I made some time ago about converting to an alternator with remote sensing. "Experts" use to connect the sensing terminal directly to the alternator´s battery terminal.

Hope some helps.
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## griff (Jul 7, 2014)

Thanks Hacke for the wiring diagrams. I bought a shop manual (reprint) but only about 25% of the wires showed up on the wiring diagrams and those that did show up didn't tell the color.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Griff,

I found two sources for an alternator w/tach drive to fit your 2000:

1. Cheap Tractor Parts has one for $190. No kit with it (no mounting brackets, wiring, etc., probably no instructions). 

2. Yesterday's Tractor Parts has one for $358. Has mounting brackets, wires, instructions.

And there are probably other sources as well.

You will probably find that your tractor's tachometer isn't working either, which means you will need a new instrument cluster.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Perhaps you have use of these two pictures. I am not sure of the origin, they are obviously from a Ford publication and I think I found them in an ebay advert from someone selling wiring harnesses.

Since it is printed in 1966 it concerns the Pre Force tractors. Changes may have been done regarding the electrical system, but the colours should have been the same in 1974. They follow a British colour code for automotive wiring. Mr. Lucas, so often critizised, saw the advantages in having colours that were indicating the type of wiring. It is pretty neat, for instance, if you find a wire with blue base colour you know it has to do with lighting.
Here is a site presenting the system: http://www.dimebank.com/LucasColours.html
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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

All 65-75 US built Thousand series Fords left the factory with a generator.
Both the generator and voltage regulator were built by Lucas and not the most robust products around.
Also, The tachs on those tractors were junk. I have seen the hour meter fail as early as 2000 hours and you rarely see one that clocked beyond 4000 hours.
I would bet that part of the reason the PO converted to an alternator was because the hours and maybe even the rpms didn't work anyway.
So you are looking at repairing two items, not just one.
An alternator is Much more reliable than those Lucas jobs.
So if you can get that system straightened out it is very good.
But you won't have a tach that way.
The good news is you can get a tach.
What most of us do if we are trying to have everything work is to also convert the tractor to the 1976 and newer style tach and drive.
Your 74 will have a soft plug (like a frost plug) under the oil filter.
To convert you would remove that soft plug and and install the new style oil pump drive gear. The new gear has a square drive in the top of it for the tach. (About $45) See first photo.
It is very easy to change.
Next you will need the tach drive itself. (About $35)
Second photo. Also very easy to install.
Next you will need to buy a new tach. (About $135)
And a new tach cable. (About $15)
Because the old style tach is left hand drive and the new style is right hand drive.
Notice that the 0 on the tach in the third photo is opposite of yours. 
You will also need to reuse your voltage stabilizer from your old tach if you want your fuel and temp gauges to work properly as the new/old gauges have different electrical values.
Or you can drill and tap the hole in the front of the head and use the new style temp sender.
Now that you recognize all the rigamarole required to have a reliable charging system AND a reliable tach you will understand why so many 65-75 tractors don't have tachs.
But replacing a generator, VReg and old style tach will cost about the same $ and you wont have near the reliability with those.
Lastly, follow the link for a VERY easy wiring diagram to wire up a 3 wire Delco 10SI alternator. Last photo.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Delco_Alternators.html

PS.
Don't get discouraged.
Aside from the tach and electrics, those 3 cylinder Fords are outstanding machines.
Absolutely bullet proof, reliable, easy to work on and easy parts sourcing - both new and used. I have a couple of them and just love the things.


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## griff (Jul 7, 2014)

*Thanks*

Thanks for info Ultradog. I have been MIA for a week with FULL time job; grandaughter (5 1/2) visited for a week.


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## griff (Jul 7, 2014)

Ultradog said:


> All 65-75 US built Thousand series Fords left the factory with a generator.
> Both the generator and voltage regulator were built by Lucas and not the most robust products around.
> Also, The tachs on those tractors were junk. I have seen the hour meter fail as early as 2000 hours and you rarely see one that clocked beyond 4000 hours.
> I would bet that part of the reason the PO converted to an alternator was because the hours and maybe even the rpms didn't work anyway.
> ...


I bought the parts to drive the tach off the oil pump. I pulled out plug and replaced the gear drive. Is the a secert to installing the drive head? I assumed I would just have to drop the base of the drive head into the hole where the plug came out. That ain't going to happen, the drive base appears to fit VERY tight, if it fits at all. The drive base doesn't look like it will withstand much more than a gentle tap with a rubber hammer. Am I missing something? Thanks.


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