# New Holland 2120 few issues



## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Hello , 
A friend of mine who is a gentleman farmer and most certainly not a mechanic asked me to look at his tractor because he thought he should sell it. He said “it has no power going up hill and the bucket won’t lift much weight ...”

Then I took a look at it and noticed two things:
1) an occasional drip of red oil from hydraulic pump on the right side of the engine which looking at the caked oily crud on everything has been happening for a good while. Does that leaking hydraulic pump power the bucket?

2) the clutch has to be let almost all the way before the tractor moves , could this indicate an incorrect adjustment or worn out clutch?































Thanks !


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

#1, yes, one pump. The HD version has two pumps Siamesed together for more capacity. One pump is usually more than adequate.

#2, these have a two stage clutch, first part of the travel from raised pedal is the transmission and drive, the second part of the travel is the PTO. Press all the way down to disengage the PTO. I would imagine it requires adjustment, based on the pig sty condition of the rest of it.

Not sure if New Holland is hawking red Universal Tractor Fluid, but I would suspect ATF has been used if the fluid is red. Not a good option if so.

I do not remember what the capacity of the Ford 7109 loader is/was. I am guessing around 1,500 on the tip and around 2,000 lb on the main lift. They have three different types of manifold diverter blocks they used, but the relief valve is found there. The relief valves get tired over time, so may require replacement once the hydraulic system is properly serviced.

The power issue on these is usually fuel system related. The fuel filter is rather small, so requires frequent service or it plugs and power is diminished. 

One thing comes to mind, farm diesel is red. It may be leaking fuel which would account for the red fluid. Run that to ground, but first let it completely cool and give it a good pressure washing so you are not working in a sewer.


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Thanks for all that. I’ll get the hot pw going and clean it up. 

I should probably get a service manual. Does anyone know if there free online copies around or do I have to buy a printed version like the below?

https://www.clymer.com/ford-i-t-shop-service-manual-fo-46

Tim


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## Guest (Sep 24, 2018)

You can probably find a downloadable copy for free or cheaper than the printed one. Hope that helps


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Got it cleaned off with the pressure washer. It looks like there are two hydraulic pumps there. I need to get in and try and find the leak. 

Can someone tell me where to find the fuel filter and is there a specific procedure to follow when replacing it, I read something about bleeding out the air after the new filter is on.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

The fuel filter is in the 4th pic.. to the left of the injection pump.. its in that little bowl.
Clean it off.. & look at the shut off lever.. MAKE SURE it on the "ON" position..
You wouldn't be the 1st person who found a low power problem because the lever was in the wrong/shut off position..
Its ALWAYS a good idea to shut the fuel off when u put the tractor away, anyway.. but more times that not, they forget to turn it back ON..


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The trail of grease and staining down the side of the engine block and hydraulic pump would lead me to carefully inspect the pressure and return lines on the fuel injectors. That much tracking would lead me to suspect loose nut on an injector, or a cracked pressure line.

As far as bleeding the air out of the system after a fuel filter change, your operators manual will walk you through the process in detail.


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Found a service manual for $20 on ebay so ordered that. The low power story may just be operator error ( driving w brake lock on, in too high gear while climbing a hill etc). 

Cleaned the engine twice and after it dried off , I can now see a wet area on the fuel pump where the injector lines are attached. I guess the first thing to try is tightening bolts and if that don’t work , replace gaskets and seals. All the area outlined in red gets wet with clear oil (assuming its diesel fuel).


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Under the plate,outlined in red,you will find some shims.
DON'T lose them,or change them!
This is how the injectors are timed!
I would suspect,someone changed the static injector timing,and didn't seal the plate,so it seeps.
Under the injector line nuts,are the orifice fittings.
Make sure to hold them with a wrench,to prevent them from turning,when you loosen/remove a line!
If they turn,it could damage the orifices .


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Thanks for that. Looking at the schematic, and the symptom that fuel is on the top plate, I’m thinking that either:
— seals 17 on the fuel line banjo are leaking 
Or
—O-rings 21 around the orifices are leaking.

I’ll start by trying to tighten that bolt on the banjo fitting and move on to ordering seal if that doesn’t help.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

IF its leaking around the BASE of the inj. pump.. just try to tighten the 4 nuts/bolts.
It would be leaking OIL not fuel.
IF its leaking around the FLANGE of the individual pumps{19-20} that means the orings {21} are flat & hard & leaking..
IF you look closely the bolts are 5 sided.. They're 5 sided for a reason.. TAMPERPROOF.
The special socket for them costs $300.00!!! The flange is slotted & is the equal delivery for each cylinder..
IF its just the gaskets {17} that's an easy fix.. The gaskets are metric..
If its leaking at 19-20 & need someone to fix it, let me know.. THATS what I do.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

thepumpguysc said:


> IF its leaking around the BASE of the inj. pump.. just try to tighten the 4 nuts/bolts.
> It would be leaking OIL not fuel.
> IF its leaking around the FLANGE of the individual pumps{19-20} that means the orings {21} are flat & hard & leaking..
> IF you look closely the bolts are 5 sided.. They're 5 sided for a reason.. TAMPERPROOF.
> ...


Where are you located?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

South Carolina.. close to Santee. It costs less than 20.00 to ship it by USPS Priority mail.


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

You’re right they are 5 sided, how about that, nothing I have will fit those so I just hope it’s not the O-rings but I’ll know shortly. Got to do more careful cleaning and close examining. Thanks !


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Did ya think I was lying?? Lol
I rebuild those pumps for a living.. & have the tool..
& no, you cant borrow it, LOL..


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

After a real close look it seems that it must be leaking fuel from two rightmost injection pumps. If I could just remove those two 5 pointed cap screws, it looks very simple to replace the O-rings and not disturb anything else. I have to believe that folks attempt to get these flange bolts off and replace the O rings and avoid a $600 repair bill.
If it’s a epa issue , then it’s worse to be leaking fuel. 
They sell the O rings , funny that they don’t sell the 5 pointed sockets.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

They sell the tool to Authorized fuel injection Dealers.. People who have been trained to work on them.. {me} & the tool is VERY expensive to buy for a 1 time use..
The orings aren't that cheap either.. OEM are 16-18.00 apiece.. I'll send u a private msg.


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Thanks for the offer but I joined the tractorforum as a way to share information about tractor and machinery maintenance. 

Nothing personal but it’s not very practical for me to send parts off in the mail for repair, I’d take it to a local shop, if I can’t diy, too risky if it got lost.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

I understand completely..
I to come here to help & save folks from spending 100's of dollars more than they need to, at the fuel shop.
IF the pump is leaking at the spot in your last pic. post # 16..
The top portion {delivery valve holders} comes apart without any special tools {17mm socket}other than a torque wrench for reassembly..
& if u REALLY want to get those 5 sided bolts out, a chisel works.. u just have to replace the bolts w/ the same side thread.. {metric}


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Thanks for that, the information you’ve mentioned is really quite helpful. 

I was thinking that the hard lines have enough flex so that I’d only have to remove the two 5 point cap screws, pull up the pump , ease off the 2 old O-rings , put on new O-rings and reassemble with similar cap screws. Unfortunately I don’t have parts machine to check on, just a schematic and the service manual that’s coming in a few days.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

TAKE OFF THE LINE..

So what I'm hearing is>
You want to fix a leaking pump THATS NOT YOURS..
U don't have the tools..
U don't have the part numbers of the parts needed.
& U have no idea how to do it..


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Ha ha looks pretty pathetic I have to agree !
But that was then, now I know more about the situation:

1. Diesel Kiki Co. originally made these injection pumps. Renamed in 1990 to Zexel with investment by Isuzu. In 2000 Zexel was rebranded as Bosch. My pump is stamped Zexel and parts ar probably being sold under these names:
New Holland
Shibaura (engine mfg)
Zexel (pump mfg)
Bosch
Isuzu

2. This seeping fuel issue is very common, it eventually happens as all O-rings rot and the injection nozzles leak. Many diesels need this fixed.

3. There are those who push past the tamperproof cap screws, get the O-rings , copper washers and fix the problem.
Example1:
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/345923-you-can-repair-leaky-fuel.html

Example2:





4. The repair as demonstrated above requires care and attention to detail and cleanliness. But is it rocket science? doesn’t look it to me. I’ll keep researching and at some point order the seals and do it. The tractor is running fine and the leak is very small.

5. As for the rubber O-rings, based on what I’ve read of others experience, I don’t have to get OEM o-rings but can measure carefully the existing and order the same from a seal vendor, maybe even upgrade to Viton heavy duty for much less $ than OEM. Example:
https://herculesus.com/product.php?productid=19300&cat=&page=1


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Give me the #'s that are stamped into the aluminum base.. should be 2 sets of 5 #'s.
Look to the left of the inlet line, at the base of the pump.. its a "code".. I'll desipher it & look it up & get u the correct oring #'s..
DO NOT scratch the paint.. get some paint/gasket remover.. spray it on & wipe it off.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Your gonna be miles ahead if you get the parts & then remove the pump from the engine.. DO ALL the orings..Trust me on this..
& use OEM orings.!! u don't wanna be doing this twice do u??
How are u going to get an accurate measurement on a flatten oring?


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Just my two cents: 

These are excellent little tractors and have a decent resale value to hobby farmers and homeowners with acreage. A rebuilt injection pump is around $2,000 and up with a good core exchange from the usual sources. A tractor with a damaged pump that was "fixed" by the average Joe and ended up with one or more delivery valve's height hosed from using generic O rings and improper torque values sell for less than the cost of a rebuilt injection pump - buyer fear factor when they run like crap or are leaking fuel.

I see postings from hobby farmers that did the home brew fixes with generic parts in a reasonably clean home workshop, then six months later they are back asking why they are having problems with power, leakage, etc. Or, they sell the mess they created.

Be real cautious with cleanliness, use only the OEM parts, and use care if attempting to chisel out the pentagon bolts, as it is easy to damage the aluminum housing where the threads fit. Use the pump repair manual torque values, do not guess.

Good luck, as you may be headed down a path where a good deed for a friend backfires if you are not experienced, do not have the necessary tools, and are not very careful.


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

It’s not two sets of 5’s but it’s a clear number next to “Zexel”.....54020 .

It’s a Zexel PFR or PFR4MD or PFR-AD ?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

There "ARE" 2 sets of #'s..so don't contradict me..
The 2 orings under the flange are> 016550-1920 {Zexel #} {2 each, 8 total}
The oring for the delivery valve holder {top nut} is> 016500-1520.. {1 each}
The delivery valve gasket # is> 140115-1400.. {1 each}
The inlet gasket # is> 026512-1540.. {2}


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Very interesting.... the five digit number stamped on the edge of the Zexel pump casting is the second half of the ten digit Zexel pump’s part number.

Most Zexel in-line or PFR pumps have part numbers starting with “10413”; adding the stamped number gives the complete pump part number. In my case it’s:
10413 + 54020
or 104135-4020 .

A quick google search using the ten digit Zexel # reveals the parts diagram and the individual part numbers of each pump assembly component: o-rings, seals, plungers etc. Using the zexel part numbers , the same Bosch part number can be found at Zexel.com ‘s cross-reference page.

As it turns out, the price of Zexel or equivalent Bosch parts is a half as expensive as ordering the same as a tractor part from the dealer.

Could not find any reference on this pump to the last part on the list. Zexel part 026512-1540 appears to be from a different pump.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Why did I waste my time??


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Okay I see them, the two washer/gaskets on the banjo fuel inlet. 

026512-1540 “Gasket D15.4&12.2T1.50” as items 94 in the diagram below:
https://fuel-inject.com/fuel/zexel.1041354020-bosch.9410617890/


That’s the low pressure side and not leaking but definitely good to replace as long as it’s apart.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

The copper gaskets are a "crush seal".. if they're not leaking means they're crushed & doing their job.. ALWAYS replace a crushed seal gasket..
Don't forget to lube the orings before installing them.. I like to use vasoline.. its soluble
& washes away, unlike grease that can clog the system.
Are u gonna fix this thing or just write about it??


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## Notaclue (Sep 3, 2018)

Finally got a chance to write up how I re-sealed my Zexel/Bosch PFR injection pump:

Used these tools:

dremmel with cutting disc
punch & hammer
Metric sockets and open end wrenches and torque wrench
Needle nose pliers









Parts

From dealer, I got the following parts (footnote 1)


2 O-rings for each pump bushing (total 8 for a 4 cylinder engine)
1 O-ring for each pump bushing cap (total 4 for a 4 cylinder engine)
1 copper washer under spring in the cap (total 4 for a 4 cylinder engine)
2 copper washers for Banjo fitting (total 2)
2 new, hex head, metric cap screws and washers for each pump bushing (total 8 for a 4 cylinder engine)


Procedure I followed


Shut off the fuel supply & removed the rubber fuel line from the banjo fitting on the injection pump.
Removed hard steel lines between injection pump and fuel injectors (used two wrenches where possible to avoid twisting injectors or injection pump fittings).
Removed solenoid on the side of the injection pump.
Removed nuts and bolts holding down the injection pump.
Lifted the injection pump out from engine block 1/2 way, used needle nose pliers to remove the clip holding the bracket on the pump control rack,






then lifted and removed the injection pump from engine block. Left shims in place .
IMPORTANT: used a dremmel tool to permanently mark (with a cut on the flange & the pump body) the position of each pump flange relative to the pump body.







Starting at one end of the pump . Used the dremmel tool with cutting disc to cut a notch in the outside edge of the 5-sided, flanged, cap screws holding down each flange. Next , fitted a chisel in the notch and hit in counter-clockwise direction, then removed the cap screw, repeated for the second cap screw and removed the pump “flange bushing” (this is the entire assembly with 2 o-rings on the outside that holds @ 6 small parts inside which pump the fuel ) .
With pump bushings out of pump body, I made sure not to turn the pump body upside down otherwise the gear or ‘control sleeve’ will fall out and will need to be lined up again*(footnote 2). One by one removed the cap or top hex fitting of each pump bushing and a) replaced the O-ring on cap above threads b) replaced the copper washer inside cap , under the spring . Replaced the hex cap on the pump bushing and finger tightened
On each pump bushing , removed the two, old O-rings, then lightly lubed up the new O-rings and slid them into the groove on the bushing body. Insert the pump bushing back into the pump body and GENTLY but firmly push and turn the pump bushing until it is fully seated, a light coat of lube on o-rings helps.






Checked that the alignment marks (step 6.) are matched. Inserted new hex head metric cap screws into pump body and torqued down, locking the flange in proper position.
Tightened hex cap on pump bushing to proper torque setting. Re-checkedd that the alignment marks (step 6) match perfectly .
Repeat steps 8-10 for each pump bushing .
Tested the pump by removing the banjo fitting and filling the pump with mineral oil (aka baby oil) which doesn’t smell so bad if it squirts on your face or clothing . Holding the filled pump in both hands gently but firmly pushed the pump base roller against a small block of wood with enough force until the nozzle squirts a drop of oil out the top.






You may have to press down multiple times to prime each nozzle. A good strong squirt proves that the pump is probably working just fine. Repeated test for each nozzle.
Replaced banjo fitting along with the two new copper washers.







Installed injection pump body halfway into engine block. Fit the hole in the bracket arm over the control rack stub and carefully replaced the retaining clip (don’t drop it ) . Lowered the pump all the way into the engine block Torqued down bolts.
Reattached the fuel line to the banjo fitting on the rear side of the injection pump, left the air bleeding screw (on top of banjo) open a few turns.
Replaced the hard, steel fuel lines between injection pump and injectors , used two wrenches where possible to avoid twisting injectors or pump fittings . Left one steel injector line connection loose at a fuel injector so that the air will bleed out.
Turned on the fuel valve , when fuel ran out of the bleed screw on banjo fitting , I closed the screw , cranked the engine until fuel came out at open fitting on the injector, closed final hard line on fuel injector, started tractor.
Threw out those #$#% 5 sided cap screws ! Tractor runs just fine, pump doesn't leak.

footnote 1 - I first attempted this repair without the OEM o-rings, I used green AC o-rings that I had on hand, they were close in size but not exactly the right size. These o-ring dimensions are measured to the 0.01" hundredths of an inch so getting the right size is pretty important. Anyway , I just did one pump bushing but when I pressed the injector pump bushing into the hole , the lower o-ring moved out of its position and tore. I wasn't aware of this o-ring tear and put everything back together, the result was a) the tractor didn't start b) several gallons of diesel fuel seeped past the damaged o-ring and filled up the crankcase, black oil & fuel leaked out the dipstick tube, got into the injection pump , made a mess. I initially thought the worst had happened but no harm done and the correct size o-rings resolved the issue .

footnote 2 - Out of curiosity I did remove one of the geared control sleeves. It is very important that it be re-inserted in correct alignment with the others. There is a very tiny mark on both the gear and the control rack and you could align those tiny marks but I found it easier to visually line up the plunger tops with the other three plungers .






This shows a mark on the control rack, hardly visible, so I lined up the tops of the plunger to be the same as the others. All the plungers rotate in exact unison as the control rack moves


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