# Hot Ford 5000 Gasser



## Steve Bice (Jan 18, 2020)

Through most of the things I have heard Ford 5000 run warm. My tractor gets up to the red zone and stays there. I usually shut it down and let it cool down before continuing. We all know that is not the ideal way to use a tractor. 
I'm looking for someone with a little experience on Ford 5000's and some options that may save me a little cash. A new radiator is priced around $300 to $500. I am aware of several other ways to cool an engine down such as, removing the thermostat, installing a high volume fan blade, an antifreeze additive, and the list goes on. The radiators on the market are said to be inferior to the original ford radiator, and I'm not even sure that is the problem. I replaced the temperature sending unit, and installed a lower temperature thermostat, so far, and it has not affected the temp. Is there a weak point in these cooling systems that I'm not seeing?


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

My experience is the radiator gets clogged with debris, especially the bottom and is very difficult to clean. Sometimes the radiator has to be removed to wash from the inside to outside due to interference from the shroud. Be careful if using a power washer. Don't use the 15 degree tip. I punched a hole in mine and had to take it to a radiator shop for repair. Recoring the old was the preferred option due to brass construction.


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## Steve Bice (Jan 18, 2020)

Thanks Ed. I see we are about the same age. This is one of many retirement projects for me. It sure has payed off in the things I have accomplished around here. The radiator was clean 6 months ago but I'll give another check. Social security does not give enough to invest $300 into the rebuilding of my radiator, but it looks like I'll just have to start saving.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

10-4 on the fixed income. Sometimes it is a struggle doing routine maintenance


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

If you start buying parts for your tractor based on hunches you will be a poor man.
Always check, analyze, verify before buying parts.
Your issue could be as simple as a defective temp sending unit. Might be a defective or incorrect voltage stabilizer on the back of your tach cluster.
Might be as Ed says, a clogged radiator.
Could be a bad thermostat.
I would rent, borrow or buy an IR thermometer gun and MEASURE the temperature before going any further.


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## Steve Bice (Jan 18, 2020)

I am on my second thermostat, and second sending unit. This voltage stabilizer sounds like a fairly affordable replacement. I will check into it. I will do a voltage check first. The IR thermometers are hard to find due to the virus, but I have been meaning to pick one up. I haven't Purchased one yet, because I thought I had one. I have been searching my vast tool collection for the last couple weeks. I need to organize better. Thanks for the input.


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## Steve Bice (Jan 18, 2020)




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## Steve Bice (Jan 18, 2020)

My tractor came with this bypass addition to the cooling system. My question is. Was this added to bleed off trapped air, or to cool the upper engine components? As it is I have the valves wide open for what I think is helping to cool the head. If it is to bleed off air bubbles, should I close off the valves after the bleeding process? Is this the cause of my overheating? Or was this added as a misguided attempt to prevent overheating?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Steve Bice said:


> View attachment 63645


It could be one of two things.
Either it was for a tank type engine heater or perhaps the tractor has (or had) a cab on it and that was for a heater.
I doubt it has anything to do with your overheating problem but would eliminate it just to cover all your bases and because you don't need it.


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## Steve Bice (Jan 18, 2020)

That makes perfect sense. I should have known. The tractor did have a cab on it. There must have been a problem somewhere because when I got it, the cab was on but the heater was already bypassed. Thanks again.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

If that's a hot water port in your intake manifold, and you plan to remove the excess hose/fitting stuff anyway, why not plug a $20 parts house temp gauge in there. They don't have much of life span, but will provide something to compare with the gauge you're reading now.


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## Steve Bice (Jan 18, 2020)

The port has always interfered with my hood closing. Removing the extra garbage in the system seems to make sense at this point. I ordered a new lower hose and am searching for an IR thermometer, that "should" take care of it. I like your suggestion, and may need to resort to that. I may have a temp gauge laying around my shop, we will see how things work out. Thank you.


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