# New Holland Boomer 37 will not start (no fuel from injector pump)



## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

Tractor was bought new in 2015, only has 300 hours of time. Replaced canister filer,
inline filter, and drained fuel tank. Filled with fresh No 1 diesel. Bled out canister and verified fuel is being pumped to the canister filter. Loosened injector fuel line and got no fuel being pumped out of injector pump. Removed fuel line from lift pump and got good fuel flow out of lift pump. This is a 2014 model and has no mechanical linkage to engine from throttle lever.








Everything is controlled by the ECU. If I let the tractor sit for a day or two, and try to start it, it will start and run for a minute and then engine shuts down , moving throttle lever has no affect on engine.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

It sounds electrical to me. Is cold where you are?


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## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

The tractor has been down for two weeks now, was trying to move snow after the cold snap that dropped 2 feet of snow and temp was -18. Was moving snow so I could feed horses, started it and let warm for 10 minutes and then start moving snow, after about 10 minutes of use the tractor started to smoke black smoke and chug, I raised the throttle a little and it smoothed out, then start chugging again and died. Haven't got it running since.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I'm sure someone else will pipe in who has some more knowledge of these tractors, but a few things come to mind:

1) air intake/filter plugged with snow/ice/debris - I would check this first
2) injection pump failure
3) fuel cut-off failure
4) electrical throttle malfunction

Is your tractor still under warranty?


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## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

1) Already replaced air filters, put tractor under a tarp and ran my torpedo heater for 5 hours and still no luck, the temp under the tarp was around 70 F
2) I though about the injector pump but I find it hard to believe that it would fail with only 300 hours
3)No where have I found any mention of a full shutoff on this tractor, although I have a fuse panel left side of console and a fuse marked as fuel shutoff valve, also the New Holland parts catalog make no mention of a fuel shutoff valve - anyone have any ideas
4) Electric throttle malfunction, these parts are expensive and I don't want to start shotgun maintenance, I guess my alternative is spend the $ 189 for the New Holland service manual.


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## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

Oh one other thing, no the warranty ran out in August last year.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I think you should investigate the fuel shut off a little more. If you have a fuse for it, it must be there. The parts catalogue might have some other strange name for it that didn’t get translated to English properly. It’s going to be the cheapest things to fix with a shut gun approach and could explain no fuel after the injection pump. Look for a part called fuel solenoid or fuel relay.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

Check this out:

https://www.scribd.com/doc/99515467/Hustler-Shibaura-S773L-N843-N843L-Service-Manual-109823-0209













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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The 37 is drive by wire, the only cost effective means to trace a failed fuel system problem problem is to have it scanned via the scan tool through the diagnostic port.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I agree, but he can test to see if power is going to the shut off solenoid to rule that in or out. It’s still a conventional diesel, so there’s no electronic fuel management like I a common rail system. 


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I should have mentioned, that is the shop manual for your engine. It’s free.


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## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

Thank you for the service manual link, I could not find anything on the New Holland site other than the New Holland service manual that cost $183. I could barely see something in the rear of the injector pump due to the engine wiring harness and front loader support. I'll remove it and test this evening after work, hopefully the weather does not turn foul.
Again thanks for all of your post.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

No problem. I hope you get it sorted out.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Marc is correct.. its a 1 or 2 wire sh-off solenoid.. & it just unscrews from the block.
A pair of channel-locs will get it out. or just run a "hot wire" to the connector & listen for the click. IF IT CLICKS w/ the hot wire.. try it w/ the key switch.. now that you know what your listening/looking for.
NO click from key switch, start looking for safety switches gone bad.. seat switch/seat belt comes to mind.
Easiest thing to do is loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS while diagnosing the pumping problem.. THAT WAY you can look to SEE if its pumping.. without the engine starting.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

You should be able to test it in situ with a multimeter. Test for voltage across the terminals and listen for the click. If you’re getting >12v but you’re still uncertain, you can pop it out and test it with a 12v battery. 

Solenoids just crap out sometimes. Sometimes they seem to last forever.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Whoa! Not the same fuel system, the tractor with the problem has the Shibaura N843T with Electronic Engine Control Module, drive by wire throttle, etc. Fooling around with the wiring loom can burn out the ECM, which is expensive.

The manual covers the 843 and the 843L, manual throttle with shut off fuel solenoid.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I think the primary difference is that the new holland variant has a servo that operates the mechanical throttle instead of a cable and similarly with other components. I agree applying electricity to test these components could do harm, but testing with a multimeter for diagnostic purposes would do no harm. Removing a solenoid to test it offline would be the only way I would test it by applying current. I may be completely off base here, but a simple visual inspection of the mechanical side would either confirm or invalidate this. No?


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The unfortunate reality of attempting to check with a multimeter begs the question, "What are you really checking?" 

There are 44 pages of fault codes in New Holland's diagnostic because the ECM looks at signals from the foot treadle, brake sensor, the alternator field and armature, the engine temperature sensor, the hall switch that detects RPM, the throttle lever, the PTO solenoid, the hydraulic pressure sensor, etc. 

Each input is compared and then the ECM issues a signal and receives feedback from the fuel injection controller before anything happens.

Knowing impedance of any one component really does nothing useful until the vast field of "codes" read at the diagnostic port are interpreted. 

Failures on these systems are usually one of the sensors, or if the operator is unaware of the limitations on jump starting, a failed ECM.

The days of checking values on one or two terminals are over on the electronically controlled systems.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

Very good point. I usually rely on code readers with my cars. This being a conventional diesel though, with an electronic control mated to it, could provide some insight in some circumstances, but as you say, if the solenoid is good and there’s just no power going to it and no popped fuses, you’re back to square one. If I had such a tractor, part of my original purchase would be a scanner that can read the proprietary codes. 


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Holy smokes fellas.. its a simple mechanical injection pump w/ a REMOVABLE shut off solenoid. Yes the throttle is electrical, but that to is a simple servo, driving/rotating a cam that moves the control rack on the MECHANICAL inj. pump.
He has a "no fuel" FROM THE INJ. PUMP problem.. CHECK the SH-OFF solenoid.. POST #8
Takes less than 15 minutes & done.. shoulda reported back by now..


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN (Mar 19, 2017)

thepumpguysc said:


> Marc is correct.. its a 1 or 2 wire sh-off solenoid.. & it just unscrews from the block.
> A pair of channel-locs will get it out. or just run a "hot wire" to the connector & listen for the click. IF IT CLICKS w/ the hot wire.. try it w/ the key switch.. now that you know what your listening/looking for.
> NO click from key switch, start looking for safety switches gone bad.. seat switch/seat belt comes to mind.
> Easiest thing to do is loosen the lines AT THE INJECTORS while diagnosing the pumping problem.. THAT WAY you can look to SEE if its pumping.. without the engine starting.


I was going to also suggest bleeding the fuel system. OR if something got stuck in the gas tank - weirder things have happened......


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good call NCW.. I went back & read the 1st post again, the poster said he checked the line coming out of the lift pump & has fuel there.. but.. nothing about checking it AT THE INJ. PUMP INLET LINE..
Those inlet banjo bolts have been known to fill w/ rust & debris & clog up.. cutting off the fuel flow entering the inj. pump.. always best to remove & inspect..
AND.. if they're rusty & not clogged up.. its a good tell-tale of your fuel QUALITY..
I can always tell, just by removing THAT BOLT what I'm in for, when I'm working on one of those pumps.


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## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

Worked on the tractor all weekend. Fuel shutoff valve is working and injector pump is pumping fuel. I discovered that the exhaust particulate elements inside the muffler are completely clogged. The elements I think act like a catalytic converter and burn off hydro-carbon for fuel emissions.
I took and muffler apart and tried to clean out but is clogged with soot and exhaust particles. If I remove the muffler I get free flowing exhaust. I looked this part up and it is listed with a $1500 price depending on what site is viewed. Now in the past if I had catalytic converter problems_ just bypassed them or hollowed out the internal platinum honey comb. Anyone have any suggestion on a possible fix.

_


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

Ahh. Dreaded DPF. The DFP is a Diesel Particulate Filter, and filters out the soot resulting from the exhaust gas recirculating (EGR). It has to regenerate periodically in order to clean it out. During this, you will observe an abundance of white smoke, usually that lasts for about 5 to 10 minutes. This will only work properly if you are maintaining a higher RPM for the full duration. I would say about 1,800rpm+.

Your tractor hasn’t been performing its regeneration cycles.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

A DFP is more difficult to bypass because it usually has a pressure differential sensor that measures the exhaust pressure before and aft of the DPF as an indicator of when it should perform a regen. I’ve heard of some tractors actually have a manual regen button/switch that requires the operator to initiate it. It might also be initiated based on hrs of operation.

If you can, I would recommend deleting both the EGR and DFP. This will make your engine more reliable long-term, and free up at least 10% HP and Torque at the crank.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

Actually, scratch that until you’re out of your warranty. This is a Tier IV emissions system. This should be covered for 10 years by law. I assume you’ve been topping up your Diesel Exhaust Fluid (DEF, adBlue, etc)?

Edit:
I just took a look, and it appears your tractor doesn’t have the diesel exhaust fluid aspect of Tier IV, likely because of engine size - TractorData.com is erroneous on this info.

There is a big debate on whether or not clogged DPFs are covered under the mandated 10-year warranty for emissions components. I would first contact your dealer to try to get them to replace it at no cost to you.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

Oh, and by the way. The DPF can be cleaned. You could contact a local commercial truck mechanic or dealer (ie Mack, Peterbuilt, Freightliner, etc), and they should e able to point you to a local company that cleans their DPFs.


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## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

Good news, I went to Hoven Equipment and talked to the mechanic about my problems. The dealer is going to cover the DPF under the exhaust emissions warranty, they ordered it today, hopefully it comes in by Friday. The online part catalog list the whole DPF list $5181.30. I'm just concerned that they are telling me that I'm not running the tractor hot enough to complete the regenerative process. Is there any advice you can give me to help prevent this from happening again?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Believe it or not that's the going rate for a "muffler" nowadays.. Perkins is 5500.00 also.. Get a service manual for that thing.. its explain the DPF system & the maintenance.. There is such a thing called "a forced regen" that should be done.. The automatic regen should have happened long ago on your machine.. IT reads the carbon deposits in the system[muffler/cat conv] & burns them out for emission standards.
Your dealer can expain it all to you.. especially if he's covering it under warranty.. they probably don't wanna do THAT to many times, if ya know what I mean..
Very glad you did the diagnosis & found your problem.. Happy tractoring.. TPG


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

That’s good news!

Generally speaking, for all Diesel engines to perform a proper regen, you need to have sustained higher rpms. I would recommend throttling it up a little higher during use, try to keep it above 1,800rpm (medium throttle) even if you don’t necessarily need that much power.

Secondly, depending on the cetane number of your fuel, you will produce more or less soot (particulate), this can be improved by using a good cetane improver. To give you an example, I ran a test with cetane improver mixed in with regular pump diesel at a rate of 250:1, and over the course of two month test (one baseline month and one test month) the truck (Volvo) saw a 66% reduction in the number of regens with the treated fuel compared to non-treated. That’s pretty significant.

Cetane improver should be selected based on the % of 2-EHN (2-Ethylhexyl Nitrate) in it. This can be found in the product’s SDS or MSDS. 2-EHN is the only ingredient in there that improves cetane number. Some manufacturers use different names to intentionally obscure the 2-EHN to prevent direct comparison. For comparison Opti-lube Boost has 70% 2-EHN, and PowerService DieselKleen+Cetane has less than 10%.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Theres an obscure company that sells it also> DTECH
Buddy of mine put it in his cummins powered truck & said, it drives like a race car.. lol
Marc> love the 1st hand comparison..66% IS amazing.. its info LIKE THAT that keeps me coming back. Well that, & being able to help folks out.. makes me sleep better at nite knowing I saved somebody a fist full of money..


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I was originally trying to show the fuel economy benefit for land transport (which is a lot harder to demonstrate) and this was a side benefit that we discovered.

If you are able to do a forced regen, get the tractor up to operating temperature, set the throttle above 2,000rpm and start the regen. I would give it a full 10 minutes or more, and not less than the time it takes for all the white smoke to stop.


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## MHarryE (Oct 28, 2011)

I see no news since Monday. I see in the original post the problem began with a lot of black smoke which indicates overfueling. Later on you say plugged DPF which also goes with overfueling. I have 3 DPF equipped with DPF and have had one problem. During winter the crankcase ventilation system froze causing pressure to build up blowing the turbo seals. Lots of black smoke, rough running, etc. The oil making it into the induction system produced the black smoke and unburned crud plugged the DPF which was replaced under the regular warranty but would have been covered under emissions warranty if my regular warranty had expired. I do not own a NH so I don't know how your tractor handles regens but mine are all controlled by the ECU. If a regen is needed it will raise the engine speed if needed. I am only bringing this up because your original description of the failure did not fit lack of fuel. Remember crankcase oil making its way into the induction system is then fuel that will quickly plug the DPF as it doesn't burn well at all.


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## Webiter (Oct 28, 2012)

Did not read all this but could the regulator valve in the diesel pump be stuck? I note somewhere he said that the engine was not responding when he activated the throttle.


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## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

It has been a hectic month. Still working o n the tractor. Pulled the DPF and it was clogged and was successful in cleaning the DPF and reassembled everything. Still having problems. Engine will not go above 1800 rpms and then started smoking. Toke the DPF of and found it was contaminated with oil, I'm assume ng the turbocharger is the source of my problem. Anyone know of a good turbocharger repair shop, because the New Holland list the part as $ 1800 .


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

Interesting. Are you absolutely sure it’s engine oil? Could it also be fuel?


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## Larry Carson (Jan 17, 2018)

No it is engine oils, I have been keeping an eye on the oil level, the level has gone down almost a quart and runs out of the front of the DPF with the front of the DPF removed. Oil is dripping out of the front of the DPF housing when the engine is running.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

That is concerning. Even moderate oil leak at the turbo should get used up during combustion. 


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Most fuel injection rebuilders have a turbo technician. In Montana I would expect Billings or Missoula to have a turbo rebuilder.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I would confirm it is the turbo first before you start throwing money at it. If oil is making it through to the DPF, then the intake will be full of oil. You likely have a positive crankcase vent ducted in right before the turbo which could be spewing oil also, especially if you have a bad piston ring. It’s not uncommon to have up to a teaspoon of oil at the turbo inlet, but there shouldn’t be copious amount of pooling oil anywhere in the intake.


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