# Ford 4000



## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Hello all, 

New on here, 1st post and not very computer savvy. I just bought a ford 4000 that hasn't ran in 10 years for 200 bucks and 300 bucks to get it home. Anyone know where the serial number is so I can figure out the year and where to get a manual once I know what year it is? Any other advice on a ford 4000 would be appreciated. I have never owned one or been around one before.

Thanks
Marc


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Here are some pictures


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Marc, check out tractor data.com. they'll have the serial number info. Also,we have some superb ford afficianodos here to help. Welcome to the forum!


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I can tell you it's a 1965-68 Three cylinder engine, All Purpose model 4000 with a Select O Speed transmission.
The photos of the cast in numbers are not helpful, at least not to me.
Get us some closer photos of the tractor from all 4 views - front, rear, left, right.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

And here's one of them now! You're in good hands.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Awesome thank you guys! I will have better pictures tomorrow night when we pull it out of the ding weeds.
I need a new rear rim on the one side and new rear tires. It has 14.9x30 tires on the rear, is that the correct size? When I put jumper cables on it to see if the tractor would turn over it just clicks. I assume the starter is frozen up? I assume the 1st things I need to do is drain the gas tank, clean the carb and new plugs and wire and make sure the points are okay? The oil looks like it was just changed and the coolant is full. The tractor looks mint.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Awesome thank you guys! I will have better pictures tomorrow night when we pull it out of the ding weeds.
> I need a new rear rim on the one side and new rear tires. It has 14.9x30 tires on the rear, is that the correct size? When I put jumper cables on it to see if the tractor would turn over it just clicks. I assume the starter is frozen up? I assume the 1st things I need to do is drain the gas tank, clean the carb and new plugs and wire and make sure the points are okay? The oil looks like it was just changed and the coolant is full. The tractor looks mint.


You will need a repair manual for it. Best bang for your buck is at the link below. Says it's for a 3000 but it covers 2000, 3000, 4000s from 65-75. It will have tune up specs for you.
Ford built two Different 4000s. A 62-64 4 cylinder model and a much superior 65-73 3 cyl model. They are completely different tractors. Many parts houses get confused and order the wrong points, etc for you.
I would just dress your points for now. I would also find a temporary fuel tank for now and just gravity feed to the carb.
A 1 quart tank off a lawn mower or some such works fine.
Photo shows my own test tank. It holds about a gallon.

"I assume the starter is frozen up? I assume the 1st ..."
For your own sake please don't ASSUME anything about your tractor. That just makes you buy unnecessary parts. Test and verify First! 
Hook a set of jumper cables up. Hook the positive cable to the lug on the starter. Then touch the ground to the chassis. That will bypass your solenoid and test the starter.
Who knows but after sitting for 10 years the engine may be stuck. That's common on any engine. Pull the spark plugs out and pour 1/3 quart of ATF down each hole to soak the rings. Let it sit for several days. Less than 1/3 quart will accomplish nothing as those are very deep dished pistons and will hold at least a cup of oil. Photo shows both diesel (clean) and gas (used/darker) pistons for a 4000.
There is a lever on the Right side of the differential housing to disconnect the driveline. Photo.
(Right/Left is Always as you are sitting in the seat)
You MUST disconnect the driveline in order to tow it and I strongly suggest you disconnect it before you go jumping the starter. Do Not Force the lever. You will break it. Lift one or both rear tires off the ground and rock them while trying to move the lever.
All for now.
This is the manual you want.
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/FO31_13242.htm


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Part 2
That loader is a model # 727.
If that was my tractor I would remove it for now. You will find it nearly impossible to work on your tractor with it on.
You can do it by hand - no lifting equipment required. Disconnect the pins and hyd hoses for the bucket. Slide it forward and out of the way.
Then disconnect the pins and hoses for the lift arms. Lift/roll them forward and off the tractor.
Now you can undo the bolts, etc and take the main frame off - one side at a time. I have removed and replaced them that way alone but having a buddy to help is nice.
Block off all your hoses, etc to prevent foreign matter from entering the system.
You are probably thinking "But that's a lot of work".
Believe me, removing it now will save you untold amounts of grief, hair pulling and cussing.
To access the points:
First remove all 4 wires from the distributor cap and pull them completely out of the tractor. Then remove the dist cap and dust cover.
Now you can get at the points - if you hold your mouth just right.
They're kind of a PIA to get at.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

That is a smart idea about the smaller gas tank, is that to ensure you are not sucking rust and dirt that may be in the original tank? I tried pulling the tractor out with a truck and a Leyland 154 and I couldnt move the tractor, I was very suprisee I couldnt. I tied what I thought was the clutch down but I later learned it was the "pinching pedal". Thank you for the advice about the disconnect lever on the right side of the tractor! When I did try jumping the tractor to make sure the motor was set up I did hook the cables up to the starter and for half a second it did turn over but after that nothing, I also didnt have the disengagement lever out, I will definetly try that today!!


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I will give you the straight dope here. Burst your bubble even.
Those Select O Speed transmissions do NOT have a good reputation. So I'm wanting you to get the tractor running well enough to test the transmission before you spend a bunch of $ on the rest of the tractor and will try to advise you towards that end.
"the smaller gas tank, is that to ensure you are not sucking rust and dirt that may be in the original tank?"
Yes. Old gas in the tank, possible rust and crud plus 4 fuel filters and a fuel pump between the tank and carb. Easiest to use a test tank for now.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I appreciate your help for sure! I have also heard the SOS transmission can be a nightmare. I ordered that manual. It was like 38 bucks, not bad!


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

We got it out! Jacked it up and that lever flipped right up! That was a million dollar piece of advice!!!!!!! Thank you so much!!!!


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I was given this book, is this the same one you sent me in the link that I just bought?


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

This is stapled on the inside


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

The FO-31 manual is correct. Just an older edition than the new ones. The date code that was stapled in is probably from another tractor. Your tractor has the old style (pre April 1968) tin on it. Wrap around lower grill and vented/louvered side hoods.
Of course the tin could easily have changed in the 50 years since it was built.
Only for sure way to date it is to get the numbers. Look on the bell housing - just aft and above the starter. Should be 3 lines of code there. You will most likely need to scrape some crud and paint off and/or use chaulk to read them. Photo. Jot them down and then hit the link below or post them here and we can help decipher them.
Yes, it looks like one rim is shot but pretty straight straight looking old tractor.
Congrats! And you bought it cheap enough to have plenty of cushion for parts/repairs. In fact you stole it.
Your elephant ear fenders look decent. Good ones are hard to come by.
I actually prefer the old style tin like yours. Have 2 tractors with that style.
FYI. Never, Ever trust the hours on a 1965-75 Ford tractor tach.
They were notoriously failure prone and rarely work after a couple/few thousand hours.










http://springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/rhcodes_serial.html


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I will look for those numbers when I get home tonight. The man I got it from is the son of the original owner. It has been parked since 2003. I am eager to see if I can turn the motor over. What is your advice on my first few steps after getting the loader off. Also i cant steer it, is that okay.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Good evening, I cleaned numbers up for over 3 hours with a little luck but mine dont look anything like yours.
Here are my numbers I think
6-F-24-B

41024F(or E)

C138246F296


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I didn't see this reply till now.
6-F-24-B= Date of final assembly
6=1966
F=June
24= 24th day of month
B=Afternoon Shift

41024E
4=4000 built before 4/68
10=Ag/All Aurpose
2=Gasser
4=Independent 540 PTO
E=Select O Speed

It doesn't say this in those numbers but your engine is 192 CI = 4.4 bore X 4.2 Stroke.
They upsized them to 201 CI = 4.4X4.4 from about 1970? onward. The diesels were all 201s.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Awesome thank you,
So as of last night, the starter was shot so it is getting rebuilt and I bought a new one. I put marvels mystery oil in the cylinders and was able to turn the motor over by hand with a screw drive, the ring gear looks great. I installed the new starter. The carberator is off and all clean but I am waiting for the rebuild kit to show up. There is no filter on the tap for the fuel tank so I ordered one of those also. Should I have power to the points once I turn the key on? There are 2 wires coming to the positive side of the coil. The one wire comes from the starting solenoid wire so it only gets power when trying to start. I can't tell where the other wire comes from but maybe the generator and that will supply power once the tractor starts? Any ideas of what else I should be doing or looking for?


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## Deerfarmer97 (Jul 1, 2020)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Hello all,
> 
> New on here, 1st post and not very computer savvy. I just bought a ford 4000 that hasn't ran in 10 years for 200 bucks and 300 bucks to get it home. Anyone know where the serial number is so I can figure out the year and where to get a manual once I know what year it is? Any other advice on a ford 4000 would be appreciated. I have never owned one or been around one before.
> 
> ...


Not a Ford Man but do drive a F150 but I did take and rebuild a JD 1020 Diesel with a frozen cylinders and starter starter etc. You may want to just pull it and see if it might start before spending a lot of money. It worked for me. Good Luck


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## MANNY PEREZ (Jun 22, 2019)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Hello all,
> 
> New on here, 1st post and not very computer savvy. I just bought a ford 4000 that hasn't ran in 10 years for 200 bucks and 300 bucks to get it home. Anyone know where the serial number is so I can figure out the year and where to get a manual once I know what year it is? Any other advice on a ford 4000 would be appreciated. I have never owned one or been around one before.
> 
> ...


Right side of engine block right before trans housing


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## MANNY PEREZ (Jun 22, 2019)

MANNY PEREZ said:


> Right side of engine block right before trans housing


It is like on a flat surface on the block


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## MANNY PEREZ (Jun 22, 2019)

MANNY PEREZ said:


> It is like on a flat surface on the block


Use a metal brush to clean it off do not use sand paper


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## MANNY PEREZ (Jun 22, 2019)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Awesome thank you guys! I will have better pictures tomorrow night when we pull it out of the ding weeds.
> I need a new rear rim on the one side and new rear tires. It has 14.9x30 tires on the rear, is that the correct size? When I put jumper cables on it to see if the tractor would turn over it just clicks. I assume the starter is frozen up? I assume the 1st things I need to do is drain the gas tank, clean the carb and new plugs and wire and make sure the points are okay? The oil looks like it was just changed and the coolant is full. The tractor looks mint.


Clean the hot wire from batt to solenoid, mine did that yesterday


Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Awesome thank you guys! I will have better pictures tomorrow night when we pull it out of the ding weeds.
> I need a new rear rim on the one side and new rear tires. It has 14.9x30 tires on the rear, is that the correct size? When I put jumper cables on it to see if the tractor would turn over it just clicks. I assume the starter is frozen up? I assume the 1st things I need to do is drain the gas tank, clean the carb and new plugs and wire and make sure the points are okay? The oil looks like it was just changed and the coolant is full. The tractor looks mint.


hit the starter lightly with a hammer, if it has been laid up that long the contact brushes are like glued to the armature end where they make contact


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Ultradog

My friends brother told me before I started it to check the tranny fluid, the oil looked brand new, the screen is clean, I am trying to get the filter out so I can get a number and replace it but the arm for the steering is in the way. How do I move that arm? Also do you know where I can get a 13x30 rim?


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## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

I think you got one heck of a buy,250$, heck a bag of bolts is worth more than that. Of course there is the 300$ moving cost... 

Anyway don't be afraid of that Select o Speed. They are not all that complicated as there isn't anything automatic about them. I went to school on them in 65 or so. The biggest issue they make it hard to control the tractor in tight spots. I was always going to find a fix for that but before I had time I moved on to something different.


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## Ford871 (Jul 27, 2017)

Ultradog said:


> I will give you the straight dope here. Burst your bubble even.
> Those Select O Speed transmissions do NOT have a good reputation. So I'm wanting you to get the tractor running well enough to test the transmission before you spend a bunch of $ on the rest of the tractor and will try to advise you towards that end.
> "the smaller gas tank, is that to ensure you are not sucking rust and dirt that may be in the original tank?"
> Yes. Old gas in the tank, possible rust and crud plus 4 fuel filters and a fuel pump between the tank and carb. Easiest to use a test tank for now.


1959 on was a relaunched select-o-speed. Much better. I’ve had one for 30 years.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I jacked the front end up and even broke a power steering line loose and I still cant spin the steering wheel out of the way


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## SoldierJohn (Jun 11, 2020)

Got to love the fact you got this old boy for $550 inc delivery wow. Parts are reasonable but like has already been said the price of a complete service/1st line overhaul etc and you'll have a decent tractor on the road. Well done mate. I'm a new owner of a Ford 3000 and loving it.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> I jacked the front end up and even broke a power steering line loose and I still cant spin the steering wheel out of the way



You might get lucky and find it was the steering that caused it to be parked and not the transmission.
You could disconnect the drag link from the steering arm on the front end. Then you could determine whether it was the steering box that's stuck or the front spindles/king pins that won't move.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Its not the hydraulic prower steering that is stopping me?


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## Deerfarmer97 (Jul 1, 2020)

Before you spend a lot of money on a starter try pulling it to start it. I'm not a Ford man but it worked on a 1020 JD that I came by that hadn't been started in 10 years.


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## EZE (Jan 23, 2020)

You will want to be sure the points are not closed before providing power to the coil, as this more than likely will fry the points. Also remember to have the transmission in neutral and the PTO disengaged. Try not to be in too much of a rush to start it. Try and gather as much info as possible before proceeding with attempting to start it. You don't want to create problems for yourself that you will regret later on. This is the tractor that my father started his asphalt paving business with in 1961, before there were paving machines. Used it for grading native soil and stone, and also used it to knock down the asphalt before finishing by hand. I agree with ultradog, in that you got a steal. Be patient take your time, and get as much information as possible (I know I am repeating myself here but I think it is worth repeating). There are other tractor forums out there, try those too. The more information you get, the better off you will be. Have fun and enjoy the experience, and remember to work safe!! I would also check the intake manifold and air filter housing for foreign debris before trying to start. Probably wouldn't hurt to check the exhaust as well. This is were a fiber optic inspection camera would come in handy. If you know any plumbers, they might have one you could borrow. Here is a link to to a Google search page - https://www.google.com/search?q=fib...ome..69i57.14967j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 
Most are not too pricey, and it may come in handy in your project.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Deerfarmer97 said:


> Before you spend a lot of money on a starter try pulling it to start it. I'm not a Ford man but it worked on a 1020 JD that I came by that hadn't been started in 10 years.


Normally I would agreee but his tractor has a Select O Speed = Ford's powershift transmission.
No towing those to start them.


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## EZE (Jan 23, 2020)

Oh by the way, the orbital valve in the steering mechanism may not have any fluid or the seals are bad and it is passing the fluid by the seals instead of going through the orbital valve manifold. Not a professional mechanic, but have experienced bleeding orbital valves before. There may be a Lucas oil product that might help thicken the oil a bit and condition the seals. I'll try and find out if there is a product that might help in this regard.. I'll get back to you later this evening. Going to work now, and I live in Phoenix, so my time zone may be different than yours. I would say good luck, but not a big believer in luck. You make your own circumstances better or worse by the decisions you make. Work smart, not hard!


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Its not the hydraulic prower steering that is stopping me?


I'm going to say no.
You can still armstrong those tractors even if they aren't running.
Where are you located?
I have a set of rims that will fit and parts for that steering box I'd let go of. Am in the Twin Cities, MN.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

EZE said:


> Oh by the way, the orbital valve in the steering mechanism may not have any fluid or the seals are bad and it is passing the fluid by the seals instead of going through the orbital valve manifold. Not a professional mechanic, but have experienced bleeding orbital valves before. There may be a Lucas oil product that might help thicken the oil a bit and condition the seals. I'll try and find out if there is a product that might help in this regard.. I'll get back to you later this evening. Going to work now, and I live in Phoenix, so my time zone may be different than yours. I would say good luck, but not a big believer in luck. You make your own circumstances better or worse by the decisions you make. Work smart, not hard!


No orbital valve in those. His tractor has manual steering box with an add on power assist cylinder on the left side.
Very simple system.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I am in western ny


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## Jessy Few (May 22, 2020)

Howdy Marc, Welcome. Figured I’d give my 2 cents even though ultradog has you covered with all the knowledge. I’d strongly take his advice with the test fuel tank. I would also look to see what the oil looks like. Tractor sitting for that long I don’t think I want the first oil it to see is oil that has been sitting for so long. Take your time and do it through. Personal opinion on the power steering is it may have leaked out an possibly rusted the gears from sitting. Just a thought have you checked the oil in the pump? Or can you see anything in the pump? Definitely only buy parts the tractor needs to run. It may save you some money later on. I have a ford 5000 diesel I had to fight a little when I first got it cause it was sitting. I was very Egear to get running an missed a few steps costed my self some extra dollars. Just some thoughts. Hope to hear that you got it running in the near future.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

The left king pin is set right up! What type of oil should I put in the tranny? The fluid level was above the level plug and that scared me that there maybe water in it but when I pulled the drain plug and new looking oil came out. The screen is clean also


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> The left king pin is set right up! What type of oil should I put in the tranny? The fluid level was above the level plug and that scared me that there maybe water in it but when I pulled the drain plug and new looking oil came out. The screen is clean also


I would remove the outer axle from the tractor to work on it.
Might take some significant heat - Oxy/acet torch with a rosebud to free it up.
In a way it being froze up is a good sign. If the spindle bushings were badly worn it wouldn't be stuck.
Use a good quality generic UTF (universal tractor fluid) that says it meets or exceeds Ford 134D.
Make sure it says that on the pail. Same stuff you'll want to use in the rear end and also the power steering system.
Buy two 5 gal pails.
If it were mine and no water in the transmission and oil looked clean and filter decent I would not change oil now. 2 pails of UTF will cost you a C Note + and I would test transmission before I spent that.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I already drained it into a crap pail. I wasnt thinking. I have a new Baldwin filter comin in tomorrow. I think tomorrow I will be able to start it unless you can think of other things I should check first?


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## EZE (Jan 23, 2020)

Ultradog said:


> No orbital valve in those. His tractor has manual steering box with an add on power assist cylinder on the left side.
> Very simple system.


Thanks for correcting me Ultradog. I wondered about that myself, and asked my dad, but he could not remember if it was hydraulic steering or not. I was just a kid back then, and didn't remember for sure myself, By the time I was old enough to operate, my dad had graduated to the Ford 540, One thing he did say was that he remembered how precise the 3 point hitch hydraulics were on the ,4000, as he used a Gannon type drag box (may have been a Gannon) to grade with the 4000, It is what made his business successful without a doubt the heart of his business was the Ford 4000, the 540, and later the 545. We have 3 of the 540's now (one is a 545) and in most instances except for straight roads and wide open areas, we can work circles around blades when grading. The machines are a little light, so we use liquid balast in the tires all the way around, and wheel weights too, makes a big difference in the available traction. Get'em going fast enough, you can knock down piles pretty good. The older machines were built to last a lifetime. The ones made in Belgium branded New Holland are not as good, but still good tractors for grading. Takes a bit to be good with them, but once you get the hang of them you can do a lot of work fast. I like the butterfly valve three point hitch hydraulics as opposed to the ram controlled type that JD, Case and others use. The larger Ford Tractors like the 210 have that type too. Not as smooth as the butterfly valve type, but a matter of preference I guess.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I got 2 rims 15x30's one 6 rear wheel weights for 400 bucks. I am sending them out to be sand blasted and primed if the tractor starts and moved today.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Is this oil okay?


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## EZE (Jan 23, 2020)

Not sure if you need anything special in your tractor viscosity wise, but that oil should be fine. Bear in mind that the cheaper oils tend to be thinner, and while that my be an advantage in some situations (better penetration, etc...) I imagine a slightly thicker oil would be more appropriate for an aged machine that's been sitting. As I said before, I am not a professional mechanic, so take my advice with a grain of salt! I did do a Google search for hydraulic seal conditioner additives, and found there to be many different varieties available. If you need a link let me know, but I just searched for hydraulic seal conditioner, and got a lot of different products to choose from. Glad you found some rims, and the wheel weights. The weights will definitely improve your traction when pushing or pulling or working your bucket in a pile. Liquid balast in the tires work well too, but it's not cheap to have it done, but not super expensive either. There are some liquid ballasts that are a mud type variety that help seal tire leaks as well like slime. But again, not cheap. Wouldn't suggest it unless your using the machine to make money. I believe there are adapters you can use to fill the tires with water yourself though, but it may cause rust issues over time, but not sure how much of a problem that is in a predominantly sealed environment with not a lot of air to accelerate the oxidation. A tractor tire guy may be helpful if your interested in looking in to it. I would see about changing your hydraulic filters as part of the tune up. Shouldn't be too much money, but definitely a good thing to do.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Is this oil okay?


Yes.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I got everything together and I hit the starter and...... NOTHING, well it turns over but no starting. I have lost power to the coil so I made a quick wire up with alligator clips and put a resistor inline and hooked it from the batter to the coil and still no spark.. I have new points and a new coil but it is down pouring right now


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

What is the reading at the coil after the resistor?
Did you hook the alligator clip straight to the + terminal of the coil?
Those tractors came from the factory with a resistor wire. It was 3 folds of resistive wire wrapped in a cover. It hooked to a bullet connector by the starter solenoid and went to the coil. If you used that oem wire plusl hooked another resistor in series you likely have too low of voltage to get fire.

It won't hurt the coil to start it on full 12 volts and run it for a while.
5-10 mins maybe.
Try eliminaing your temporary resistor and see what it does.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

There are 2 wires that go to the positive side of the coil. One comes from the starting solenoid and the 2nd I am not sure. My wire went from the battery straight to the positive lug of the coil.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

How should power go to the coil?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

The one that goes to the solenoid gives the coil full 12V only when the solenoid/starter is engaged.
The other one should be tge resister wire and it goes back to the key switch.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

IT RUNS AND THE BUCKET MOVES AND THE WHEEL IS UNFROZEN!!! I WILL SEE IF IT MOVES TOMORROW!!!!!!!


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Tomorrow I want to try and drive it but I would like to change the rear end fluid first. Is that also the hydraulic reservoir? What's the best was to change that? Any screens or filters?


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## C.C. (May 20, 2019)

Yeh !! Congrats on getting it going!!


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Tomorrow I want to try and drive it but I would like to change the rear end fluid first. Is that also the hydraulic reservoir? What's the best was to change that? Any screens or filters?


Congrats!
Hyd reservoir depends...
Hard to see in your photos.
Most tractors that size used a pump that ran off the front of the crankshaft. For those the loader frame is the reservoir.
You could also power the loader off the tractor's onboard hydraulic system. I suspect that's what you have. That way is slower but still useable.
The hyd pump on an SOS 4000 is bolted to the left, rear corner of the engine - has 2 steel lines going to it.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

PS,
No hyd filters on those.
There is a screen on the end of the suction line (bigger pipe) going to the pump. Down, deep in the bowels of the rear end. Forget about it for now. Big, big job to access it.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Thank you! Well hopefully this isnt horrible news but neutral is R2 and park is R1 1st grear is R1

Park is r1
R2 is neutral 
R1 is 1st
Neutral is 2nd
Ect 

It seems to drive great going forward but there is a second of hesitation going into reverse and it seems to work a little harder


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Are these any better


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Thank you! Well hopefully this isnt horrible news but neutral is R2 and park is R1 1st grear is R1
> 
> Park is r1
> R2 is neutral
> ...


I know you can adjust your cables so the gear selector matches the actual gear you're in.
Beyond that, at least on your transmission I can be of no further help other than to say to consult your manual.
I have driven a few of those transmissions and have worked on a couple of them.
Some guys love them. I will be entirely frank and tell you I do not like them, do not trust them and have no intentions of ever owning another one of them.
Give me an 8 speed crash box and I will be happy.
My own 4000 was a SOS when I bought it. It worked perfectly.
It was the Deluxe model with 540/1000 rpm and ground drive pto. 
But I hated operating it - enough that I replaced the transmission and rear end with an 8 sp.
While I was at it I converted the gas engine to diesel.
I hope you like yours. I hope it works well.
Here's a photo of my 4000 before I tore it apart. I am nearing the end of a full resto on it.
Was the exact same year and drive train as yours but was the Row Crop model.
Ford called it a 4200.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Are these any better


Hint.
When you post photos you will be given the option of them showing as thumbnails or full photos. Try the full photo option.
Much simpler for us to view them.
Example:


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Okay thank you, how bad was it to change the transmission to an 8 speed?


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## EZE (Jan 23, 2020)

Glad you got it running Marc. It's a great start, but it is just the start. One thing is for sure, you will always have something to do around the house for a while! I would be interested in what it takes to convert the transmission as well. It looks like Ultradog really went to town on his tractor, and that he had a pretty good shop to work in. I know I have not been much help, but from my experience these forums are a God send for projects like yours, so you can move forward with confidence that there is help to be had out there. Glad Ultradog was there to help you out! Have fun and keep us in the loop. Oh, and while I think this is one of the best forums, if not the best, there are other resources out there on the net that you can possibly utilize as well.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Thank you eze, I have some tranny issues to work out, along with some electrical wiring. Someone has definetly cobbed some stuff together. I need to get the wiring correct and figure out why the generator is charging at 16 volts, I also want to change hydraulic and rear end fluid. Another thing that is weird is the rear arms are either all the way up or all the way down. I dont get that.


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## EZE (Jan 23, 2020)

You may need a rectifier on the alternator/generator, but I am not knowledgeable about that sort of thing. As for the three point hitch, there should be 2 levers on the right side. One marked draft, and I don't think the other one is marked, but not sure. The lever closest to the seat is usually the draft lever. The draft lever is set to keep the three point hitch from dropping below where the draft is set. If you have no need of this function (most of us don't. I think it was used in ag applications where you can set the draft, and then lower the main lever and it would stop the three point hitch at the set position and you didn't have to hold the main lever, you just set the draft and forgot about it till you got to the end of the row), then just put the draft lever at its lowest position (all the way downward) and just don't use that lever at all. Just use the main one, which is the one closest to the wheel. There may be some stuck linkage in the system, but its a fairly simple system that for the most part is the same sort of linkage they used for the three point hitch controls for decades, if I am not mistaken. There is some adjustment in the linkage, but I have never known there to be a need to adjust it from the factory settings, unless the linkage got broken or bent real bad. The spindle gears under the seat where the main armature linkage is attached to is where I would look next if the linkage is in good shape. The main lift arms attached to the splined shaft can be cracked (they are cast metal) and it would not lift the arms if cracked. The arms where made to crack before the shaft to protect the shaft from being broken. Hopefully there is no damage to the internals of the lift system for the three point hitch. I am not knowledgeable about the internals, other than to say that there is a butterfly valve that operates a piston type piece of steel that turns the shaft up, and gravity helped the hitch to lower when the piston was lowered (not a very good description and probably not too accurate), but I do know that the rear end is the reservoir for the hydraulic lift system for the three point hitch, so there may not be enough oil in the rear end (there should be a small plug about halfway up on the rear end housing under the seat that is the fill level check for the rear end (both sides I think, about a 1/4" square plug). You just fill it till it comes out the hole. Be on level ground while checking, and always check cold). On later models there was a manifold on the right side of the rear end housing that adjusted the speed of how fast the hitch would go up and down, but not sure if it is on that model. The manifold is about the size of your hand with a dial knob in the middle. There may also be a filter for the rear end but I am not sure on that model. If there is one, it usually is below the step where the pedals are, usually on the left side. But again not sure. Sorry I could not be of any more help than this. Ultradog seems to be an expert on these machines, and his knowledge seems to be extensive. It would be ideal to be able to contact him directly, and maybe buy some parts from him if possible, but not sure how you would exchange contact info without it being made public. A pay phone number maybe? Or some other public phone he could call you at, or vise versa may work as a means to get in touch with each other if he is okay with that. Just a suggestion.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> Okay thank you, how bad was it to change the transmission to an 8 speed?


None of it was bad. It was all fun - like you're probably having with yours. The short story is it requires swapping out the rear half of the tractor.
The long story is well, long.
I took two tractors and made one. 
Actually, I took 3 tractors and made two but that's a longer story. Been playing with this for over a year. Though these share the same engine and chassis ar your all purpose 4000 there are a Lot of unique parts on these row crops and many are simply no longer available.


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## EZE (Jan 23, 2020)

Ultradog said:


> None of it was bad. It was all fun - like you're probably having with yours. The short story is it requires swapping out the rear half of the tractor.
> The long story is well, long.
> I took two tractors and made one.
> Actually, I took 3 tractors and made two but that's a longer story. Been playing with this for over a year. Though these share the same engine and chassis ar your all purpose 4000 there are a Lot of unique parts on these row crops and many are simply no longer available.
> ...


Hey Ultradog, I like your other tractor as well! Is that a 340, or a 540? Can't tell from the picture. But those are the ones that last a lifetime. The bean counters didn't like them too much cause they never broke down, no matter how hard you ran them, so they couldn't sell enough parts to make the bean counters happy. I guess that's why they stopped making them and had the new ones made in Belgium. Those machines were no where near as good as the ones made here. My dad bought the last new 540 available in the country according to the dealer. We were in CA at the time and had to have it delivered from TX, but it was worth it. A great machine, except we didn't care much for the split transmission. Those were probably great for PTO applications, but we never used the PTO, so we preferred the older style 4 speeds. It's amazing how similar the different models are, at least the main parts are similar. Looking at the engine block on your diesel reminds me of how similar it is to the later models. A great design, that's for sure!


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I dont see a plug or a spot for a filter for the tractor for the rear end. I would like to change the rear fluid as it is also the oil for the loader. My tractor does have the knob for the speed of the ? What ever it controls. I would also like to get it wired back correctly as right now everything is by passed.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> I dont see a plug or a spot for a filter for the tractor for the rear end. I would like to change the rear fluid as it is also the oil for the loader. My tractor does have the knob for the speed of the ? What ever it controls. I would also like to get it wired back correctly as right now everything is by passed.


No filter on those. Not untill 1976 did they get a hyd filter. There is a screen buried deep in the bowels of the rear end. Requires a split to get to.
If you're really wanting to clean it some pull the hyd pump and pour diesel fuel into the suction tube (larger one) then blow it out with a wad of rags or tape around your blow gun. Repeat a couple/few times. Flush the rear end out afterwards or it will just suck the stuff back into the screen. But then you get to buy new Orings to reconnect the manifold and go through the pia process of bleeding the pump.
Mine is a 1966 and I had it split for other things. There wasn't much crud in that screen.
That knob is on the flow control valve. It changes the speed at which your 3 point lifts (and/or the speed of any remote cylinders - loader, etc)
Ford made kind of a big deal out of that. In 15 years of messing around with these tractors I've never had occasion to need or use it. Don't remember if fast is in or out on that knob. Just set it to fast and forget about it.
Don't forget to top off the lower steering box with 90W. There's a plug on it to add oil.
Have you had a chance to run it much? Test the transmission?


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I have ran it about an hour, the hour meter works. I am okay with not tearing the rear end apart. The trany works great but it is 2 years off of what the shifter says. I have reached out to 4 different sources and all have explained the same way to fix the issue. I did forget about the lower steering box. It steers easy and amazing. How do I change and refill the rear end? I see the fill but not the level plug and the drain plug. Rims and weights are getting sand blasted and I got 2 16.9x30 brand new treadura 10 ply tires for 675$. I am looking into the electrical right now. I sure would like to have it wires right


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

The drain plug is underneath by the drawbar hanger. Should be a square head pipe plug. Some used a recessed square that you insert a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar into. Most plugs have a little magnet on top - in the oil. Inspect it for particles of metal - early warning sign for an internal failure. A few whiskers are normal but you don't want it to have a full beard.
Gently whisk it clean in lacquer thinner and photograph it for us if you want a second opinion on the whiskers.
I'm not an SOS man but look on Right side of rear center housing - below/behind the foot board.
There is a flange there, kinda oval shape, held on with several bolts. I believe the hyd lines from the pump go into it.
Should be a small square head plug on it. Remove it and add new oil till it spills out of that hole for correct level.
Let me know if level plug location is correct. I'm learning too...
Edit:
I forgot about the loader.
Fill the rear end till it spills out of the level plug. Then replace the plug and add an extra gallon for the loader.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Okay thank you, I will be looking for the plugs tomorrow. Does any of this make sense to you about wiring the coil?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I have that manual here.
What is your question about the coil?


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

There are extra wires on my tractor. Should there be key switch and then a push button to start the tractor? The push buttone has power regardless of key position and will turn the motor over


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Marc T.L. Matteson said:


> There are extra wires on my tractor. Should there be key switch and then a push button to start the tractor? The push buttone has power regardless of key position and will turn the motor over


No push button. Engine should turn over with key.
You mentioned the gear selector being off by a couple of gears.
I'm sure there would be a neutral safety switch on your tractor. 
All Fords had that from about 1940 onward.
On an SOS, gear selector would have to be in park (maybe neutral also) to turn engine over with key. I'll bet someone added the push button to bypass the NSS.
I don't know where the NSS is on an SOS but it's likely internal.
You would need to address two things: get the gear and indicator to match and locate the NSS and get it hooked up and working properly. Then you could eliminate that button and start with key as it should be.


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## Dale Brevik (Sep 16, 2019)

I bought a 62-64 Ford 4000 with an SOS. I paid $4000 + $60 to tow it. I put in a water pump, radiator, alternator upgrade and spindle bushings. Good thing I’m retired and like playing cars. 
I spoke to an old guy that rebuilds SOS. 
He told me when you clean the screen never use anything except solvent and air. No cloth or paper. Any fibers create problems. 
He also told me to run he tractor in each gear and then step on the brakes. It should buck. If it slips make a note of it. Once you have a list of gears that slip, there is a chart in the SOS manual that will show which bands need adjusting. 
Other than that, he said if you drive them nice (don’t slam between gears) then they do fine. 
Also, on my series, they recommend adding a plumbers street elbow. It adds a few mor quarts of fluid which keeps it from starving on a hill.


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

Okay, I have an update. I am currently running the tractor by a wire with an alligator clip on it to the positive battery terminal to the positive end of the coil. I am waiting for the new ignition switch. I put on new rims and tires on the rear and adjusted the shifter by loosing it up and rolling it back two gears. Now I have all my gears. I am currently in the middle of changing my rear end/hydraulic fluid and I got out about 9 gallons. Is that average? I can't find in my book how many gallons it takes


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## Marc T.L. Matteson (Jul 6, 2020)

I found it in the book that is is 26 quarts. I filled it up and raised the rear arms and they shook the whole time they were coming up and then with them up I filled it the rear end until it came out of the level plug because I have a loader on the tractor. Is there something I need to do to get the shaking to stop?


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