# No Fuel to Injectors



## desertjim

Hi Everyone, I have an '88 Ford 2110 which I have had a long time and never any serious problems, except a clutch replacement. It has a little over 1100 hours on it.

A couple days ago I guess I ran it out of diesel, so I had to loosen all the injector connections and let the air out. It ran fine for a while, and then died, the same way it did before. I added fuel and tried to bleed the injectors, but got nothing. I pulled the fuel filter and it was filthy. Actually, the filter wasn't as bad as the glass bowl. I cleaned it, blew out the filter and put it back on. Still nothing. I then pulled the hose leading OUT of the filter and fuel was running through it, but none got to the injectors. I'm thinking one of two things and hoping for #1.

1. A clog somewhere. I haven't yet blown out the hose leading from the bowl to the injector pump. Would it hurt to use air pressure to blow through the hose into the pump? If I can't do it that way, how may I check it?

2. A blown pump. It doesn't seem to me that it would "go" all of a sudden like, but then if I knew that for sure, I wouldn't be writing this request.

Any suggestions from you folks will be greatly appreciated. I hate to take it to the shop unless I know I need to.

BTW, how much trouble to replace the pump, if necessary? 

Many thanks,

Jim


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## Big_T

Is your filter a strainer/screen, or a paper element? If it is a paper element, you can't effectively "clean" it, and you risk damaging it and allowing dirt to get to your pump and injectors. Replace it.

I assume that the glass bowl you mention is at the base of your filter?? This is a Shibaura built tractor, and they differ from the traditional Ford tractors. If this is a separate sediment bowl, it may have a screen up inside it that needs cleaning? 

I've attached diagrams of your fuel tank and filter and also your injection pump. Let me know if these are not correct for your tractor. 

___________________________________________

DIESEL/AIR PURGING PROCEDURE

Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent. Normally, Ford tractors have a strainer/screen attached to the shut-off valve, and positioned up inside the tank. But this is a Shibaura built tractor, and I don't see a screen on the parts diagram of your fuel system. If you have a trickle flow from the tank, you will have to determine where the blockage is and clean it out. (If you blow it out with air, remove the tank's filler cap to prevent pressure damage to the tank). 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

Loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. (If you have a bleeder screw on you injection pump, and you KNOW which screw it is, you can bleed through it, but do not open any screw on the pump without knowing what it does). 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittngs in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.


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## desertjim

Thanks very much for your explicit instructions.

At this point, I have to start where the fuel enters into the pump, because I have good flow to that point.

If there is a clog in the rubber tube going into the pump, that would be great! 

However, if fuel "is" getting into the pump, what would be the indication then?

If I blow air (from compressor) into/through the pump, should it come out at the injecter connection on top? Or is the pump air tight? Just not sure about this.

Many thanks,

Jim


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## Big_T

If your filter is intact, there should be no dirt in the pump. I wouldn't blow air into the pump - might cause problems. Can you remove the rubber tube in question and check it out? 

If you have good flow at the pump inlet, make sure all connections are tight, and loosen/crack open the injector fuel line connections. Have someone tow you (try 3rd gear/low range). Get it going with clutch depressed at a reasonable slow speed and let the clutch out. Tow it till you get fuel at the injectors. Stop and tighten the injector connections and she should start using the starter.


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## desertjim

Thanks.

..................and of that doesn't work? Does it mean the pump is bad?

I know "all" the injector lines are not plugged (smile) and not one is delivering fuel.

I'll try the tow thing, but my starter and battery really cranks it over.

Next step is to pull the rubber tube going into the pump.

Regards,

Jim


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## Big_T

Well, if you've got fuel to the pump, and can't get fuel to the injectors, you've got a problem. MAKE SURE the kill rod is in the RUN position both at the dash and at the pump. Recently had such a problem - KILL rod was in the run position but it wasn't moving the kill lever on the pump. The pump will NOT deliver fuel in the KILL position.


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## desertjim

I do have fuel at the pump.

Now, about killing something, that's a new wrinkle on my horn! Never heard of those switches........either on the dash or on the pump.

You may have something there!!

Thanks a bunch,

Jim


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## desertjim

Big_T said:


> Well, if you've got fuel to the pump, and can't get fuel to the injectors, you've got a problem. MAKE SURE the kill rod is in the RUN position both at the dash and at the pump. Recently had such a problem - KILL rod was in the run position but it wasn't moving the kill lever on the pump. The pump will NOT deliver fuel in the KILL position.


BTW, Big-T, I don't see "killer" in the diagrams you attached.

I also didn't know that the glow plug was down there.

Gonna take it for a walk (tow) now and see if anything seeps through.

Thanks again,

Jim


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## desertjim

Ok! Bad news. The towing didn't bring any fuel up to the injectors.

Is the injector pump the next issue?

Is the R&R complicated.

It appears to be gear driven from inside the engine. Is that correct? Could it be in that mechanism?

I'm trying to garner all the knowledge I can so I can determine if I should tear into it or take it to a shop.

Thanks,

Jim


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## Big_T

OK, your tractor may not have a kill rod?? I have a little Kubota diesel riding mower that has a kill solenoid that shuts off the fuel supply. How do you turn off the engine?? With the keyswitch?? *Let's pursue this angle to be certain that the fuel isn't shut off...*

I attached a diagram illustrating a kill rod for your tractor. 

Incidentally, you can get virtually any diagram pertiaining to your tractor at the New Holland Online Parts Store.

_________________________________________

ADDITIONAL COMMENTS:

Injection pump repairs are normally done in a shop. Has to be done in a very clean environment. Not many guys tackle injection pump repair. This is a Shibaura pump - different from traditional ford pumps. Shibaura parts are VERY expensive, and may be hard to get. 

You will need a shop/service manual to pull and re-install the pump. I've pulled and reinstalled the injection pump on my 3600. My pump is mounted on the front end of the engine, and requires alignment of three pairs of timing marks on four gears (crankshaft gear, camshaft gear, injection pump gear, and camshaft drive gear. These are under the timing gear cover. Actually not a difficult job once you see the marks lined up in the shop manual, and understand what you have to do. 

I don't know how/where your pump is driven by the engine.

You need to study the shop/service manual procedure to re-install it and make sure you are comfortable with the job, and feel that you can do it. 

Or have a shop do it. 

Attached a diagram illustrating your kill rod.


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## Big_T

I hate to see you give up on the pump. Especially considering the cost of pump repair. When you run out of fuel, there is always a chance that you suck dirt (tank bottoms) into the system. There is always the possibility that there is a flow restriction. 

When you say that you have good flow to the pump, put a bucket under the connection and see that you have good sustained flow. Your filter(reserve) will supply fuel flow for a short time, and then go to a trickle. You might try going through the bleed procedure in my first reply. 

When you turn off your engine you cut the fuel supply to the injection pump. When you push the kill rod in, you move the kill lever on the pump. Just wanted to be sure that you weren't trying to start it in the "Kill" position, or possibly the rod isn't moving the kill lever far enough. There is NO fuel supplied to the injectors in the "kill" position.


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## desertjim

Yesterday a guy stopped by my garage sale. Got to talking with him and he does this sort of stuff. He told me this had just happened to another guy who called him. He said to get a can of "Red Line" and fill the bowl of the filter with it and run it through.

The guy did that and called back to report that it did. First, tho, he said that the directions said to add so much to so much fuel. John told him that's what the can said, but that John's instructions were to do as he said.

He said what you did - that the dregs could get in the pump and clog up the works; that the Red Line would dissolve them. So, I gotta try it. I was in town today on another matter and forgot to get a can of the stuff. Will do so tomorrow and give it a shot.

Like you, I hate to give up as long as there is "hope" (smile).

Forget the "murder" thing. I don't have one.

Thanks a lot,

Jim


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## desertjim

MORE INFO - Using the Redline treatment didn't solve the problem.

I removed the cover from the injector pump assembly this morning. The valves inside were working, so, it appears that the pump is working mechanically. Is there material in there that causes the pump to work? Not sure how it works.

Does this new info help with any type of diagnosis?

Many thanks,

Jim


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## desertjim

Big_T said:


> Attached a diagram illustrating your kill rod.


Thanks BigT. The diagram was very clear, but it didn't show where it might be found on my 2110. It certainly does not connect to the dash. Can't find it under the hood anywhere either.

Thanks,

Jim


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## Big_T

How do you turn off the engine?? With the keyswitch?? 

In any event, you have to shut off the fuel at the pump to shut off the engine.


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## desertjim

Thank happens on mine when I push the fuel feed lever all the way up.


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## Big_T

I attached a diagram of your injection pump and engine stop. Does your pump look like this one? Does it have levers #25 & #35??


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## Big_T

I attached diagrams of your injection pump and engine stop control. Does your pump look like the pump in the diagram?? Does it have levers #25 & #35??

Sorry for the repeat note - had a major distraction!!


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## desertjim

Thanks, Big T. I sincerely appreciate your help, but I keep telling you that there is NO kill switch on my injector pump. Unless it has fallen off . There is only ONE rod going into the pump and it is from my fuel control lever. 

Here's a picture of mine:


Thanks a bunch,

Jim


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## Big_T

I simply had to see it to believe it!! As I stated in my first note, this is a Shibaura-built tractor, which may differ from typical Ford design. Your pump is not in the Ford/New Holland library. Must be a a Shibaura pump. Apparently, the engine stop function is built into the throttle control??? 

Is this pump original with the tractor?? Even the subsequent model 2120 tractor's injection pump has a stop lever (according to diagrams in the New Holland Library). 

My GUESS remains that the engine stop is stuck in the "off" position (shuts the fuel off at the pump). You might try taking the throttle control rod off of the lever at pump, and work the lever back and forth a few times to see if you can free the stop function.

Can you give us another photo a little further away so we can see more of the area surrounding the pump??


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## kdwellssr

I have a Ford 1710. Today is engine started slowing way down even at full throttle. I loosened the injector lines and fine that number 1 is not getting any fuel. The pump is moving as I removed the cover and checked. I removed the lines going to the injector and they were all clear. Where do I go from here?


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## desertjim

My tractor did sort of the same thing. It's been down for about six months. I finally pulled the injector pump and had it rebuilt all the way. And now there is other problems with it and it ran perfectly for ten or twelve years. You gotta watch the fuel you get nowadays. Mine has drugs, cows and camels in the fuel so I'm gonna have to pull the tank, I guess. With only one injector not getting fuel, I would think it might be a clogged line, but not sure. You can loosen it from the pump and at the injector and blow it out and see what happens. I'm ready to sell mine and get a little lawn job with all the goodies, although I have no lawn :lmao:. Mine's an 86 2110. It's always been johnny on the spot until the injector pump gave out. It sat around for six months before I got around to having it repaired. Maybe one of these days I'll get it running properly again.


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## kdwellssr

I removed the line and it was clear. Can I blow air back through the top or should I remove the feed line and apply air pressure at that end? Can I apply air pressure from either end? Will the injector pump remove without full removal of the pump?


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## kdwellssr

I removed the lines and did a through cleaning. Removed the tank and emptied the fuel. Replace with fresh fuel. Left the injector lines loose while cranking to allow air bleedoff. Its running great again.


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## jsjac

In the pic above is that a fuel shut off electrical switch above the throttle
Lever. If it is check for power at the switch or the switch could be bad . You
Should have power when you are cranking the engine.


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## pennoyerp

*built in shut off stuck*

Here is a picture of the lever to the built in shutoff on a Ford 2110. The lever is really hard to move back and forth. Do you think if I remove the lever, oil it and put it back on again I will get in to much trouble. Behind it according to your diagram are two small shims and a seal.

Sorry to interject my problem into this thread.
Thanks for any help
Paul


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## RC Wells

The Japanese Ford tractors such as yours have very small fuel filters that clog easily. Replace the fuel filter and prime the system and I suspect your problem will be solved.

If you are in a state that forces a biofuel blend for diesel, like Oregon, you will need to run fuel cleaning and fuel approved algicide additives in the system as a routine practice. 

One of the issues with biodiesel is the in-tank screen is prone to clogging as the alcohol in the fuel binds to water and then forms varnish that coats the screen on the sock, and that will need to be removed and cleaned to get fuel to flow properly. Also, look for algae bloom in the fuel, which will show up as slime on the in-tank screen.

I had to remove the fuel pick-up tubes in my diesel Gator and one small diesel tractors this spring and clean both fuel pick-up screens because of the exact symptoms you describe, and I run additives and still had the issues.


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## pennoyerp

*Thanks*

Thanks for your help. Will try this.


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## TraderMark

Never mind, just realized how old this thread was.


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## Paddlefoot

desertjim said:


> Yesterday a guy stopped by my garage sale. Got to talking with him and he does this sort of stuff. He told me this had just happened to another guy who called him. He said to get a can of "Red Line" and fill the bowl of the filter with it and run it through.
> 
> The guy did that and called back to report that it did. First, tho, he said that the directions said to add so much to so much fuel. John told him that's what the can said, but that John's instructions were to do as he said.
> 
> He said what you did - that the dregs could get in the pump and clog up the works; that the Red Line would dissolve them. So, I gotta try it. I was in town today on another matter and forgot to get a can of the stuff. Will do so tomorrow and give it a shot.
> 
> Like you, I hate to give up as long as there is "hope" (smile).
> 
> Forget the "murder" thing. I don't have one.
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> 
> Jim


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