# Hi newbee here- I have a 87 212 jd rider and it has no fire at plug



## Drip (May 15, 2020)

My 212 jd has no fire at plug-new plug didnt help either-points look ok-any ideas what i should do next?


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

782


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Bob knows that one! I'd think about the condensor..maybe?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

K301 Kohler point system test








*Key Switch test*
12V power actually comes from key switch to (+) terminal on the coil, not the battey as in the picture. Test with a VOM on 12V setting... Should read battery voltage at the + terminal. Really needs to be 12.3V or better

*Points test*
Act as the switch point to ground. Coil fires when the points *OPEN.* Test with a VOM on continuity.... Fixed contact should have continuity to point frame. Spring contact (open) should *NOT*. Make sure the (cam felt) is lightly lubricated, it's more important than most people think for the points to work smoothly when you consider they're opening several dozen times a second at full throttle. Lightly clean the contact faces with a folded piece of sandpaper under spring tension. When your done, clean them with contact cleaner and run a business card back and forth also under spring tension

*Ignition Coil test*
Actually a step up transformer. Test with a VOM .... *Primary winding* (+ to - studs) -- VOM on 200 Ohm Setting. Should read 4 to 8 Ohms (+/- 5%).
*Secondary winding*(+ stud to Spark plug tower) VOM on 20K setting. Should read 7,000 to 12,000 Ohms (+/- 5%).
*Case grounding* Test with a VOM -- VOM on continuity.... No continuity between any of the three terminals to the coil case.

*Condensor test*
I was taught to do this test and is the very reason I still have an old school *analog* VOM. An analog VOM is also the most accurate way to set point timing. 
https://www.hunker.com/12226169/how-to-test-a-condenser-in-a-small-engine

*Spark Plug Wire test*
Test with a VOM --- VOM on 20K setting. Needs to fall into the same range as the secondary winding test (7,000 to 12,000 Ohms.) I usually do the secondary winding test with the spark plug wire attached and test between the + terminal and the spark plug cap end. If it falls out of the 7K to 12K range, then I unhook the spark plug lead and test at the tower to see if it's a bad coil or a bad spark plug lead causing the high resistance.


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> K301 Kohler point system test
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Hi Bob-i finally found it was a bad condenser-i mowed with it for 20 min or so and pushed clutch in to shift to reverse and when i pushed pedal down it shut engine off-now back to no spark again-Any ideas whats going on?


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> K301 Kohler point system test
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> 
> 
> ...


Would the voltage regulator be blowing condensers?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Point systems have to have 12VDC to operate coming from the key switch. Check the + terminal on the coil for voltage with the key on. No voltage.... Check for a blown fuse carrying power into the key.

Getting it running again and leave the VOM hooked up to the supply voltage for the key. Hit the brake and go to reverse and see if you get a big DC voltage spike going into the key. Shouldn't happen if the regulator is working right. Is it old enough to be a mechanical regulator?

How old is the machine? 1987 is the year the Bright Idea Fairy struck with brake safety switches....


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

I think its a 82 or 83-is no clutch safety switch that i see


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

The clutch switch,if it has one,will be under the frame,actuated by a tab on thew clutch shaft.
If it doesn't have one,check for wires being chafed,as it will short out the condenser/points.


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

jhngardner367 said:


> The clutch switch,if it has one,will be under the frame,actuated by a tab on thew clutch shaft.
> If it doesn't have one,check for wires being chafed,as it will short out the condenser/points.


Ok ill check that-thank you kindly


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

What is this part under the dash? It is a block with 2 pink wires and 2 purple wires and two come from switch and to go from that block to plug for coil


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Picture please??


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> Picture please??


Mm didnt load and pic let me try again


Bob Driver said:


> Picture please??


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

Im thinking thats a switch for when you kick mower deck in but dont know what it does actually-I put new condenser on again but still no spark


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Going off the PINK & Purple wires you mention, and looking at the wiring diagram, it is indeed your PTO switch. I just posted "John Deere 212 Master Wiring Diagram" into the Manuals Section of this Forum.

As you'll see, the PINK wire carries 12VDC from the ignition switch to that PTO switch to power the coil. That PINK wire also runs through the seat switch, so you might want to put a jumper wire in the seat and see if the coil powers up. Look the matrix for the PTO terminal functions on page 3 to see what I mean.


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## Drip (May 15, 2020)

I checked all that u mentioned and coil has juice to both termanals but still no spark out of coil wire to spark plug end without plug connected-just tested the wire itself


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

*Ignition Coil test*
Actually a step up transformer. Test with a VOM .... *Primary winding* (+ to - studs) -- VOM on 200 Ohm Setting. Should read 4 to 8 Ohms (+/- 5%).
*Secondary winding*(+ stud to Spark plug tower) VOM on 20K setting. Should read 7,000 to 12,000 Ohms (+/- 5%).
*Case grounding* Test with a VOM -- VOM on continuity.... No continuity between any of the three terminals to the coil case.

I've got to deliver a mower to a customer. I'll be off-line until after 7:00 PM CDT


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