# Best Pentrating Oil



## Tau44

I am wondering what the best pentrating oil is to get an engine unstuck. Any suggestions on how to get an engine unstuck as well.

Thanks,

LBH


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## jodyand

*kroil*

kano kroil the best stuff ever made.
Jody
kroil


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## Ed_GT5000

An old man showed me once to mix transmission fluid with kerosine 50:50 ..... cheap and works well.

Pour it in the spark plug hole and let it sit a few days. Then gently try to work it loose.


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## Ingersoll444

> _Originally posted by Ed_GT5000 _
> *An old man showed me once to mix transmission fluid with kerosine 50:50 ..... cheap and works well.
> 
> Pour it in the spark plug hole and let it sit a few days. Then gently try to work it loose. *


Guess that works got for unsticking stuck rings also. Never used it though.


For rusted bolts, I would not trade my PBlaster. Stuff's AWSOME!!!


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## jodyand

> _Originally posted by Ingersoll444 _
> *
> 
> 
> For rusted bolts, I would not trade my PBlaster. Stuff's AWSOME!!! *


Bet you never tried kroil its way better then PB blaster.
Jody


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## farmallmaniac

where do u get PB Blaster?


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## jodyand

Any auto parts store or even Wal Mart sell it.
Jody


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## jbetts13

> _Originally posted by Ed_GT5000 _
> *An old man showed me once to mix transmission fluid with kerosine 50:50 ..... cheap and works well.
> 
> Pour it in the spark plug hole and let it sit a few days. Then gently try to work it loose. *


ya l was told the same thing it worked on my tractor poured it in a let it sit for 3 days and pulled if will a tractor


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## jbetts13

WD-40 works not the best but it works for me


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## Chipmaker

Well over the yeas I have used just about everything that is made for freeing up rusty things, and IMHO, the best stuff yet is the flourescent yellow dye penetrant spray that is used in welding shops and machine shops to check for cracks with a black light. That stuff is amazing and it works. Just spray the item and allow it to set, and odds are it will be able to be moved. If it does not free totally, apply some more once it starts moving and allow to set a bit again. Some heat helps sometimes but I have found it mostly un-necesary. Cost is about $5.00 a spray can at the local welding supply stores. The dye can get into the tiniest of cracks or crevices and seems to flow right through rust.


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## Live Oak

NOTHING beats "Homers Duck Butter" Especially if you warm it up to about 167 degees! If stores don't carry it in your area; PB Blaster works great. :truth: :cowboy: :captain: :clown: :spinsmile :tractorsm   :hide:


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## bear

i have used a lot a lot of different penetrating oils and found kroil to be the best. for unseizing engines fill the water jacket of the block and use a block heater to warm it up


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## Bigdog

I have to agree with Jodyand & Bear - Kroil is about the best penetrant I have used.


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## Live Oak

That is a sharp idea with the water jacket and block heater bear! I will have to remember that trick! :thumbsup:


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## deerseeker001

where do you get kroil at i used it at workand it worked good.i thought it was industrail thanks


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## Eastexan

deerseeker001 said:


> where do you get kroil at i used it at workand it worked good.i thought it was industrail thanks


Great stuff. 
I couldn't find it locally so finally ordered it from Amazon. 

Amazon.com: kroil


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## deerseeker001

thank you very much


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## browndd1

Kano Kroil


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## bboxall

The best penetrating oil is a 50% / 50% mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.


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## deerseeker001

thanks for info


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## Aussietrainman

Don't know about unseizing an engine, but a product called B'LASTER PB; It's manufactured by B'LASTER/B.C.C.1 in Cleve;and, Ohio. You may have heard of it. It sells here in Oz for about $19 (Australian) a can compared to CRC 5.56 at $6 bucks a can. I use both, 5.56 has its uses, however the B'laster one will unrust anything rusted, no matter how far gone (well up to a point). If it can be unscrewed, this will do it. I have equipment (rail speeders and trailers) that have been out in the rain for some 20 years and have used the B'laster, count to 60, undo it. Definitely recommend it.

An alternative is to fill the cylinder with diesel and go for a 3 week holiday...
Aussietrainman


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## Aussietrainman

I would suggest that you go to "The Fairmont Help Line" website in Oz; the site owner had a Fairmont speeder motor that needed a lot of help; google the site name, there is a section called "the shed" or something similar and he has photos of his exploits in restoration. By the way that was Cleveland, Ohio... It sounds like there are a number of interesting mixes out there!
Ausietrainman


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## SCHSJR

Lots of stuff will work. Here is just another suggestion.

I have used Marvel Mystery oil to unstick a small 4 cylinder gas engine. Took spark plugs out filled each cylinder with marvel mystery oil - used a small but long necked funnel and poured in til it ran out then let it sit.

Could do that with an injector vs sparkplug.

Once it was unstuck I cranked over by hand a time or two with the sparkplug out to pump out excess then the starter to pump and blow it out more. Then it was ok to crank up. Once it is free you could repeat filling at different rotations to wet the cylinder walls too as a kinda prelubber.

Marvel Mystery oil is a solvent/penetrant and a "top cylinder lubricant" you can mix with fuel/gas. And shouldn't hurt the crankcase oil if less than 5-10% dilution for a while (they actually recommend 10% if I remember correctly for winterization).


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## HYDROGUARDIAN16

Best penetrating lubricant that I've used: Zep 45 & SiliKroil


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## Larry in OK

Kroil.

If that doesn't work for bolts and stuf then an appropriat mix of oxygen and acetylene will usually do the trick.


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## HYDROGUARDIAN16

haha lol right


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## rsmith335

I thouht that was called a hot wrench?:lmao:


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## Argee

PB Blaster

http://www.blastercorporation.com/


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## jackpeterson

*Re:*

Very interesting idea! I think that could prove a very worthwhile approach in establishing long term relationships.
I think that you would need to prioritise quite heavily towards the people who either link to you all the time or who have large, powerful sites.Oil Drilling Chemicals But these are the perfect people to build a relationship with as they have already shown that they like you by placing the link.


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## Argee

jackpeterson said:


> Very interesting idea! I think that could prove a very worthwhile approach in establishing long term relationships.
> I think that you would need to prioritise quite heavily towards the people who either link to you all the time or who have large, powerful sites.Oil Drilling Chemicals But these are the perfect people to build a relationship with as they have already shown that they like you by placing the link.


I don't think it has anything to do with liking someone or not and everything to do with recommending a good product that one has had a good experience with. I automatically like someone the first time I ever make their aquaintance because I have no reason not to. It's the long term that will tell if it stands up to the test of time.


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## flywheels

Gibbs 
Gibbs Brand Lubricant and Penetrating Oil all deep cleaner stops corrosion is a mechanics dream.

I've also had good luck with 50/50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid.

J


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## ssettje

Here is a trick for a hot surface. Pentetrating oil will just vaporize if sprayed on a hot surface, such as a hot engine. Try bees wax, it will wick right into the threads/joints.


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## oldtom

try brake fluidi new or old


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## dangeroustoys56

I like PB blaster the best, when i drag my old rusty lawntractors home that havent run in who knows how long , been into weeds up past the hoods and sometimes full of rusty water ( upper intake) - i spray PB blaster in the combustion chamber, on the valves, around the piston and let er soak for a bit, then work the motor over by hand and see if itll move.

Then slap some gas in the carb, check the oil and fire it up, the PB blaster burns nice n clean- easier to start. 

I nearly seized a lawntractor engine i had ( drained the oil to replace the drain tube, and forgot to refill it), i sprayed the PB blaster in it for 3 days and kept working it over by hand, then i sprayed more in it the 4th and decided to try n fire it up - took right off and ran pretty good actually.


Ive used MMO in gas and oil - helps keep the carbs gunk free.


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## ZZ71

I like this stuff. I have a can of this that has lasted for years, it works like nothing I have ever tried before.









Part X88A
12302866
Super Penetrant (12 oz.)

* Penetrates rusted, corroded metal-to-metal seizures
* Lubricates for easier disassembly and reassembly
* Is excellent for freeing and maintaining the efficient operation of heat riser valves
* Effectively removes most lead, lead oxide and rust deposits
* Safe, nonflammable, fast-acting foamy spray clings to parts to penetrate and work


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## sideboiler

bboxall said:


> The best penetrating oil is a 50% / 50% mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.


bboxall knows what he is talking about. A machinist's magazine did a fairly well controlled study of penetrating oils including a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. It beat the commercial penetrating oils by a substantial margin. Kroil was the next best. It just works more slowly. I had a 1 gallon can of Kroil sitting in the shed for several years. The can was undamaged but when I wanted to use some, it was empty. The oil had penetrated the can seam and leaked out.


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## john walsh

I have to agree that for severely rusted parts like exhaust, there is no substitute for oxy-acetylene. The best penetrant I have used I found in an appliance repair parts shop called rust-buster. It looks like water and comes in a small plastic squeeze bottle with a retractable wand. I had a very long steel bolt seized into an aluminum casting and I couldnt use heat because of nearby meltable parts. I had a lot of time to use a penetrant, so I used the petroleum based ones like PB blaster a Zep product. No luck after a week, so I soaked the visible threads in Rust- buster and a day later it started to move. It was squeeking like crazy, tho, so I continued to soak,try,soak,try and an hour later it was out. Dont forget to use an anti-seize product on parts you know will be a pain to remove in the future, remembering that you will use a lower torque value with lubed threads.


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## Lawrence1210

Creating a separate thread for my question


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## PaulR

PB Blaster and Kroil are both great.

But yea if something I know is really stuck, I go straight for the heat.

If you don't have oxy/acetylene at your side I've found Mapp gas in those little bottles works great.


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## Brother-Al

Ditto above, nothing unsticks rusted parts like heat, a BFH, & some bees wax. Downside is that heat isn't always the right trick for the more "delicate" areas. I have had plenty of luck with PB Blaster & their wide array of products. PB also has a much higher flash point than other products... An important factoid if you're working around any kind of ignition sources. Used Kroil once, worked good, but it's not commonly found in my area.


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## Rusty

Man, this stuff makes me feel out of touch. I always used Marvel mystery oil. Didn't see a single post on it. Any one besides me ever use this? I will defiitley be trying Kroil and PB blaster next time i need to break up some rust. Now I curious.


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## Bill Hoffman

Acetone & ATF 50-50. Unstuck an old harrow that was
stuck tight, all discs. Good stuff.

Bill


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## Bryan1

Loctite have brought out a product called 'freeze and release' only about $10 a can and it sprays a liquid at about -40c man does that stuff work great on everything from a stuck bolt to shrinking bearing cones for a tight fit.

Great stuff so if you guys see it grab a can and never look back....

Cheers Bryan


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## Brother-Al

Wow, that sounds like a great idea, and a nice alt idea where heat/expansion won't work... freeze/shrink it instead.


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## JerryForrester

Bill Hoffman said:


> Acetone & ATF 50-50. Unstuck an old harrow that was
> stuck tight, all discs. Good stuff.
> 
> Bill



I agree 100%. That's what I use.
later, Jerry


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## pauldeere

40 lbs. oxy. + 10 lbs. gas. Will disolve any rust anywhere, no need to soak, works instantly...


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## big

Kroil is the absulute best..... unseise ANYTHING!!!!!


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## MBTRAC

bboxall said:


> The best penetrating oil is a 50% / 50% mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.



:thumbsup:Agree & mostly all I use - except nowhere around any seals I may want to reuse.

Also Caution: ONLY use Acetone/mix's if you fully understand its volatility /flammablity & have appropriate safeguards/controls in place


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## jhngardner367

I had some small(#8-32) screws that were locked in a distributor,from corrosion.Replacement distributors weren't available.
So,I soaked it with PB,and,as one of their reps advised,used an electric engraver to "vibrate"it for 2 minutes. Repeated twice,and they came right out!


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## Aussietrainman

*Thuh best rust remover ... ! ... ?*

Hi, I have just heard of a method - appears to be some sort of galvanic or electrophoretic, maybe a reverse electroplating method, dunno...

I will be seeing this in operation on 2nd March at the local Train Museum. A fellow has a setup that is big enough to do a whole towbar!. Says it uses a battery charger ... it could use aluminium elctrodes in a reverse Thermit process. 

Says it lifts rust like you wouldn't believe, and it takes off paint.

It might work like aluminium TIG welding with AC power, only going with a DC polarity only. 

In AC welding of aluminium (aluminum) one polarity lifts the oxide and the reverse polarity melts the base metal. Remember that aluminium has a higher affinity for electrons and in a Thermit reaction the oxygen from the ground up metal filings goes across to the aluminium, leaving molten iron. Makes a good rail joint.

I have some very rusty items that I am going to give to him to try, namely some tools I forgot I had, in a location that I'd rather they weren't, hence the need to remove rust.
Sorry about the length, I don't get out much...


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## MBTRAC

Aussietrainman said:


> I have some very rusty items that I am going to give to him to try, namely some tools I forgot I had, in a location that I'd rather they weren't, hence the need to remove rust.
> Sorry about the length, I don't get out much...


Sounds to me like you may get up to the Thirlmere railway museum a bit by your name.........


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## Aussietrainman

*Aussietrainman - origin of name... and other tractors*

Funnily enough, the day I wanted to go to Thirlmere, was when my wife was in a band in the Camden Band Festival back in '97 and I thought "Bewdy - Thirlmere!" It was not to be, I ended doing my 'apprenticeship' on a 110 person BBQ, so didn't go to see Thirlmere, just drove by it years later (2007) after a stint on the railway.

My Aussietrainman name came about when I did a course at TAFE in IT and we had to do Personal Development. Part of this was setting up a Wiki, and I made my username Aussietrainman - I couldn't believe that I got it! So you can immagine how I felt when it was available in the Tractor Forum.

Incidently, I have a farming background - irrigated lucerne hay mainly, with other cropping thrown in, and my (first) tractor was an MF135/Multipower. My second (and preferred) tractor, especially for spraying - it was high up off the ground and no cab - was a MF178/Multipower. 

It was a magic tractor, though if I could have just split it, I could have removed the little clip that sprang off when trying to remove the linkage set up, and caused some problems with the hydraulics later on - they would not work after the transmission warmed up. The transmission would go "automatic" and the exsternal hydraulics would not function... My only regret was not keeping the '178 after the farm was sold, it could have been very useful.

Our other tractors were the Golden Fergie (Dad's name for it due to it's colour) - a four cylinder 4 speed Fergie, apparently with a Coventry Engines diesel motor. Itwas traded in on the MF135. The other tractors were an MF35X, and a Ford 500. Then there were the two Hesston 110 Windrowers (1967!)...

Oh, I do have a Simplicity Ride on Lawn Mower - I need to get the engine going, though, as I need it to do the job the 178 would have been doing - Heritage railway station and all that - much mowing!

If you wish to discuss anything, my email is

[email protected] 

My Wiki is aussietrainman.wiki.com

I don't know if the moderator will allow personal email addresses, wiki's, etc, to be shown, perhaps there is a way to have personal replies like RailPage. I could look I suppose...


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## jhngardner367

If you want personal replies,click on "my account",and then click "private messages". Type in the message,and the recipient,and send it.


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