# Another failure on my Craftsman GT6000



## DForal

Oh boy, seems I can't go more than a month or two without something happening.

This time, the right front flange bearing has failed. I noticed some squeaking that kept cadence with the vehicle speed. I raised the front end up and the right front wheel is loose on the axle. And I mean loose! The bearing must be 1/4" too large at the end.  The attached picture shows the wheel on the axle (I've already removed the clip and washers) - you can see the gap between the axle and the bearing. The second picture is of the left wheel - you can see what it should look like.

I was able to get the bearing out using a hammer and screwdriver and striking the bearing from the other side of the wheel; through the wheel hub. After a few tries, it popped out. You can see the wear on the bearing in the third picture.

I'm not sure why the bearing failed; there was grease in the bearing - it is all over the inside of the wheel (both the inside and outside of the wheel). I guess it must be lack of lubrication or inferior materials. Maybe the original bearing was the wrong size (too large) and it has been loose from the beginning? This tractor has a history of incorrect assembly. 

I'll say one thing, Sears stands behind their hardware. I called and asked for two bearings (I'm going to replace the second bearing in the wheel even though it looks ok) as well as an axle cap (lost it today while mowing). They didn't bat an eye and processed the order. I did ask for second day delivery (I need to finish mowing), but she wouldn't do that. Estimated delivery less than a week, so I can live with that.

If anyone has ideas on why this happened, I'd like to hear it. Thanks. Dave


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## Thomas

Hows the shaft..still round?

Age of bearing dirt etc. could been cause,or just bad bearing.


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## DForal

I just took my micrometer out and made some measurements. The front axle shaft is 0.75" and the shaft actually looks very good; the outer end of the shaft only has about 2-3 mils of wear, the inside end has only about 0.001" wear - the middle part where there are no bearing surfaces is exactly 0.750". The outside bearing ID is about 1.06", the inside bearing ID is about 0.83" - lots of slop and its a wonder I was able to drive the thing.

Now the kicker - the rear axle is ..... drumroll please .... you guessed it .... 1.00" diameter. Looks to me like Sears put a rear axle bearing in my right front wheel (outside) and the correct bearing on the inside. The front and rear bearings have the same OD for some reason, probably to save manufacturing costs.

So, looks like both the inside and outside bearings on my right front wheel have about 60 - 80 mils of wear. It seems like the inside bearing was the correct size from the beginning and the axle shaft has been using that bearing, but because the outside bearing was way oversized (by 1/4"), the wheel was able to "wobble" on the shaft and wear both bearings. It finally got bad enough (on the inside bearing) to get my attention.

I've always thought the front end on this machine handled "weird" and just attributed it to the "Tight Turn" technology. Now I know it was a combination of the wrong bearing in the right front wheel and the loose bolt holding my axle to the frame (see that thread here).

Looks like I will definitely need to change both the inside and outside bearing on that wheel. Hopefully after I get that done, everything will be OK - at least for another month or so


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## dangeroustoys56

You could upgrade your front wheels - get a pair of 4 lug 8" golf kart rims ( can still use the same tires) and pair of 4 bolt tapered bering hubs that can be greased.


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## DForal

Got the bearings from Sears - ordered on Sunday and got them Tuesday; pretty good.

Installing the new bearings was easy and there were no problems. Just hammered them in (kept the chamfer lined up with the zerk fitting). I installed the wheel on the shaft, added the washers and holding clip, greased them up, and then went mowing. I must say that it handles much better now that the wheel stays lined up with the shaft!


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## Thomas

Can't really tell..do the new bearing seem better built?


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## DForal

They look identical to me, but I didn't do any testing or probing. I just knocked 'em in, greased it up, and went mowing. I'll keep an eye on them periodically.


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## dangeroustoys56

They look more like a bushing then a bering - actually look just like the spindle bushings i put in my '82 dynamark.


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## DForal

DT, you are right; they are just bushings, but Sears calls them "Flange Bearings". No moving parts, just material with a hole in it and grease to lubricate. They must have enough surface area to provide decent support for the wheels. My left front wheel looks great; no sign of bearing (bushing) wear and the wheel has very little play. My only guess as to why the right front "bushings" failed is that they were oversized to begin with or the material was inferior.


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## wjjones

I have replaced mine twice in the past 6 years I guess its just from normal wear.


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## wjjones

DForal said:


> DT, you are right; they are just bushings, but Sears calls them "Flange Bearings". No moving parts, just material with a hole in it and grease to lubricate. They must have enough surface area to provide decent support for the wheels. My left front wheel looks great; no sign of bearing (bushing) wear and the wheel has very little play. My only guess as to why the right front "bushings" failed is that they were oversized to begin with or the material was inferior.



Or your turning/ mowing habbit? I noticed I tend to turn the same way while mowing so this causes more wear on one side than the other.


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## DForal

It could be due to the way I drive. Turn left mainly so that the grass discharges to the already cut part of the lawn. Turning left should put more weight on the right side; that is the side that I had to replace. And I do tend to run pretty fast, so that may be the reason they failed. If that is really the reason, I should need to replace them again next summer; we'll see what happens. Good observation


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## dangeroustoys56

Actually bushings are a cheeper alternative for berings - older tractors actually use real roller berings in the wheels .

Problem with bushings is over time theyll wear the spindle out - even greasing them .


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## wjjones

I had looked at some flange bearings to replace mine with with the actual beraings in them. Anyone tried any like that?


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## dangeroustoys56

It should work if you can find a bering to fit inside the wheel and over the spindle - a pair of hubs i bot from northerntools had these lightweight berings with a flange that fit a 3/4" spindle .


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## txsteve

What do you think..I'm going to a bearing place to see them in person..I have a spare wheel to bring with me to check it out..
Then the cheapest price gets my sale if they fit..

Bearing #
FB-94318-NA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-Wheel-Bearing-3-4-inch-ID-X-1-3-8-inch-OD-/300472008025


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## DForal

Sounds great! Let us know how it turns out. The bushings are $8.14 on the sears website; your ebay listing has them for $9.50 - I'll sure get them if they fit. Dave


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## wjjones

Yep thats the ones I looked at but didnt get because I didnt know if they would work, or not. They would be ideal if they fit, and you can get the washer, and keeper clip back on behind it.


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## dangeroustoys56

They should work fine and last a long time - not to mention the rolling resistance will decrease ( easier to push, if needed) - id drill n tap the rim for zerks , if they dont have em already.

Id pack the berings with heavy duty wheel bering grease before putting em in the rims.


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## wjjones

dangeroustoys56 said:


> They should work fine and last a long time - not to mention the rolling resistance will decrease ( easier to push, if needed) - id drill n tap the rim for zerks , if they dont have em already.
> 
> Id pack the berings with heavy duty wheel bering grease before putting em in the rims.



Mine has grease fittings/ zerks already but I noticed the factory bushings have a beveled edge to allow the grease to pass by the bushing to get into the wheel. I didnt notice any bevel on the bearings in question? Maybe DF will let us know how his turn out, and how these issues come into play?..


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## txsteve

When I see what Dave posted about the bushings,, I checked mine..Yup..mine has some play..so I pulled the wheel off and put on a new spare and its a lot tighter..

Mine is greased very good but the bushings are wearing fast..
It have to be the friction of the speed of the tractor..My old Murray that I have for 30 years never worn that fast..I only changed those one time..The only difference is spindle size..Murray is 1" vs 3/4 on the GT6000...
Speed is a factor too..The Murray high speed is turtle speed..

Going from Bushings to Roller Bearings.

Being I don't have the bearings in hand but looking at the measurements it needs some modifies..
Going with the bearings that are deeper than the bushings is tricky..I have to weld the hole close where the zerk fitting is and move it closer to the wheel face on the other side of the factory weld..

I just ordered the bearings..








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## txsteve

Well no luck getting the bearings local..I found them on line and ordered 4 at total with shipping like 33 bucks..



Part Number: 215-267

http://www.texasmowerparts.com/cata...D&category_id=74&group_id=379&section_id=1066


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## wjjones

txsteve said:


> Well no luck getting the bearings local..I found them on line and ordered 4 at total with shipping like 33 bucks..
> 
> 
> 
> Part Number: 215-267
> 
> http://www.texasmowerparts.com/cata...D&category_id=74&group_id=379&section_id=1066



Let us know how they work out Steve so we know to get them, or not..


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## txsteve

I ordered them yesterday and got them today..Ups..That was fast..Anyways like I thought,,need to move the zerk..I'll have it done by the morning...







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## txsteve

ok I'm back with the update...Roller bearings installed...Not easy but yes it can be done..Tires turn more freely and no more friction on the bushings and spindles...I have pictures of steps but I have to do them on the desk top..
For now you can see the difference between bushings vs roller bearings in this video below...let me know if the video opens..
http://qik.com/video/54065654

Or 

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXZJpMfx5KU&feature=plcp[/ame]


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## txsteve

They are not easy like just putting in the stock bushings but after seeing the results with the roller bearings...It's worth it..
If the original zerk was 1/8 lower,,that would be nice..If the new bearings flange was the same size as the bushings..That would also be nice...
Oh well...It's done..

I downloaded some pictures below..Gives you an idea what I'm talking about..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


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## Hootnanny

*Same thing happened to mine*

Same here, I've got 48 hours on mine and the outer left wheel bushing gave out. I've got four on order at 5 bucks a piece.


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## harbin

I'm pretty late to the party here, but here are what I use- direct fit on my 2011.

Bearings

Those roller bearings look like they will last much longer- look super strong.


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## DForal

Harbin, thanks for the info and link. I double checked the dimensions for the bushings (Sears part # 9040H) on my tractor (Sears 917288610) and they are 0.75" ID, 1.375" OD, 1" long and it sure looks like these bearings will drop right in.

I've ordered a pair for $16 including shipping - the Sears bushings are $8 each. Thanks again. Dave


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## steeleshark2

harbin said:


> I'm pretty late to the party here, but here are what I use- direct fit on my 2011.
> 
> Bearings
> 
> Those roller bearings look like they will last much longer- look super strong.


I got the bearings and did the install. They work great. I am just a little worried if I have to get the wheel back off for any reason. It was a very tight fit getting the wheel on and had to use a hammer and socket to be able to get it on far enough to get at least one washer and the c clip. She is on though. The front wheels really nice now. Being sealed bearing, any reason I should grease it?


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