# 1963 IH B414 inj pump rebuild pics



## Goober1979

1963 IH B414 injector pump rebuild pictures......... Ok, so she's running again. Got a Delphi DPA seal kit from a friend that works at a pump shop and now its pumping like a champ. Here are some pics of the rebuild. Somehow I neglected to get after pics of the governor spring/arm/link and the metering valve. Sorry. 

Here are some things I learned:

-CAV DPA pumps are TOUGH. I dumped some awful looking stuff out of this pump after pulling it off.

-Take detailed pictures of every step of disassembly.

-MAKE SURE you note where your governor spring hooks into the governor arm and the throttle shaft. On B414's it should be the 2 hole on the arm and the 1 hole on the shaft.

-Make sure the spring does not get bound up in the throttle shaft hole during reassembly. This will make the engine run WIDE @$$ OPEN when it starts and have no throttle response. 

-Carb dip and 2-3 cans of brake cleaner are a big help.

-Thoroughly coat everything is something like STP, motor oil, shell calibration fluid type C, etc. before reassembly. This is a tip from my pump shop friend.

-You CANNOT be to clean. These pumps use very tight tolerances.

-Do not try to "feel" or guess the torque on the studs, nuts, transfer pump rotor, ect. You will need an inch/pound torque wrench. Guessing here could destroy the pump. Here are some torque numbers:

Gov. cover studs: 70 in/lbs
Gov. cover acorn nuts: 40 in/lbs
Transfer pump rotor to rotor shaft: 60 in/lbs
Hydraulic head locating bolts 200 in/lbs

-Upon disassembly, take note of how the transfer pump liner is situated. If it is reassembled the wrong way you can destroy the pump.

-Take note of how the guts if the end plate come out. If you put them back in wrong............well, you know.


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## Hoodoo Valley

More pictures posted by Goober1979......


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## Hoodoo Valley

More pictures posted by Goober1979........


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## Hoodoo Valley

More pictures posted by Goober1979......


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## Hoodoo Valley

More pictures posted by Goober1979.....


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## Hoodoo Valley

Last set of pictures posted by Goober1979.....


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## Goober1979

First vid is a bit dark.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGatAVx1WAA]YouTube - 1963 IH B414 running[/ame]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aHMAuwOEo60&NR=1]YouTube - 1963 IH B414 first drive after injector pump rebuild[/ame]


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## cyrush

You did a good job there Goober!! especially after finding all that gunk in the pump.

Presume you have also cleaned fuel lines and tank out as well. Bet tractor goes well now.


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## Kevin2011

I am considering rebuilding my injector pump myself. I am a fairly mechanical guy. I am an HVAC tech. I was changing my engine out in high school for fun. I have a couple of questions
Thanks for all the pics and tips.

How would you rate the difficulty level on this?
I ordered a repair manual for the injector pump- did you use one?
I have a BD154 engine with a CAV injector.
Where did you get the repair/ rebuild kit?

Thanks


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## cyrush

I can sell you service manual for the BD154 engine and the manual from IH covering DPA pump overhaul. These are in PDF format and on CD rom. Send me aPM with your e mail address and i will forward details.


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## Goober1979

Kevin2011 said:


> I am considering rebuilding my injector pump myself. I am a fairly mechanical guy. I am an HVAC tech. I was changing my engine out in high school for fun. I have a couple of questions
> Thanks for all the pics and tips.
> 
> How would you rate the difficulty level on this?
> I ordered a repair manual for the injector pump- did you use one?
> I have a BD154 engine with a CAV injector.
> Where did you get the repair/ rebuild kit?
> 
> Thanks


Well, difficulty would depend on what shape your pump was in. I didn't have to replace any hard parts, just seals and gaskets so, my job was about a 4 out of 10, I'd say. Even if you have to replace hard parts, I don't think it would be very hard, I think the difficulty comes in calibrating the pump if its found necessary. Just take pictures and notes for EVERY step of the disassembly. I used a combination of 3 different "manuals". I found all of them in PDF format online for free. I will try and find the links for you. One of them was just a chart showing proper gov spring placement. That said, I would prefer to have the manual on CD that cyrush is selling instead of my "pieced together" manual. As for the re-seal kit, I made contact with a guy that works in a local pump shop. He sold me the kit and gave me the torque specs for all of the pump fasteners. I also advise buying or borrowing an inch/lbs torque wrench. "Close enough" wont do on this (or any, I guess) pump. 

Let me know how it goes if you decide to do it. And I DO recommend doing it yourself. And let me know if you need help. I'm no expert, though.


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## Kevin2011

Thanks gents I have ordered a paperback manual. I hope to get it in the next week or so. Also the diesel repair shop here said he would order the gasket kit for me. I have seen them online for $25 to $55. I hope he is in the ball park. I gave him my pump to give me a price to rebuild and he said $690 with no major repairs. Seems awful high to me. I could buy the inch/pounds torque wrench and a gauge set for a lot less than that.

Did you have to calibrate your pump or did you just leave it where it was at?


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## Goober1979

Kevin2011 said:


> Thanks gents I have ordered a paperback manual. I hope to get it in the next week or so. Also the diesel repair shop here said he would order the gasket kit for me. I have seen them online for $25 to $55. I hope he is in the ball park. I gave him my pump to give me a price to rebuild and he said $690 with no major repairs. Seems awful high to me. I could buy the inch/pounds torque wrench and a gauge set for a lot less than that.
> 
> Did you have to calibrate your pump or did you just leave it where it was at?


I paid $25 dollars for the reseal kit and a stud and acorn nut for the gov cover so if you get charged alot more than that, your getting ripped. To me, $690, although about average if you call around, is WAY too much for this job. If I understand correctly, your paying so much because they have the equipment to calibrate and there is a general view that the job is so delicate that only "qualified" pump specialists can do it. While some of that IS true (the tolerances between the pump parts are VERY small. So small, in fact, that the friction from a drop of water may as well be sandpaper. Plus, even the slightest variation in calibration can cause a large difference in performance.) it can be done shadetree style if you are careful. I did not calibrate my pump for 2 reasons: 1) I simply could not afford it. and 2) I was 99% sure that I reassembled the pump exactly like I found it. Here is why I was sure - Look at the 14th picture in this thread. That picture is looking down on the hydraulic head rotor/drive plate assembly. In that picture you can see the adjusting plate (shiniest part in the pic). The position of the adjusting plate controls how far the plungers move outward in the rotor and thus, how much fuel is injected per injection. If this plate is not in the correct position you will inject too much or too little fuel. On my pump, the plate had worn(?) a "shadow" into the rotor so that upon reassembly, I just matched the plate to its "shadow" in the rotor and it was put back where it had always been. There is a procedure for doing that same thing based on some markings in the drive plate but I had no need for that. I will say that I was taking a chance that the tolerances inside the hydraulic head and between the plungers an plunger barrels where within spec but again, I could not afford to do otherwise.


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## Kevin2011

Ok well thanks for the info. I will post more about it when I do the rebuild- that is after the manual shows up and after I get a seal kit for it.

And yes I plan on taking lots of pics


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## Kevin2011

I GOT MY TRACTOR STARTED!!!!!!

I took apart the top cover ONLY and sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner in there and everything started to loosed up, Drained the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter purged everything and now she runs!!!

Now I have work to do on the electrical and the hydraulics

:lmao:


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## michael1950

Question about my B414, I was running it to day and it started loading up. I have no Throttle response now, opened the bleeder on the injector pump and it got R.P.M.'s up and when I throttled it down. It stalled out, I replaced the upper throttle gasket a few weeks ago and the filter in the injector pump. Any one have any ideas, Thank you


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## Kevin2011

I have been using my tractor now since May and I can't believe the help it is with the horses, wood pile, lifting things in general, my dirt road, and on and on. What a blessing.

michael1950 I am still green at this but may I suggest doing a proper purge of the fuel system. Open the bleeders until full and open each injector connection to get all the air out. I think I read somewhere that this is critical

good luck


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## michael1950

Does any one know of where I could get 4 or have any injectors to fit the b 414?? Thank You Mike


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## cyrush

Any good diesel shop should be able to supply new nozzles or recondition injectors!!

Do you have an operators manual or a service manual??


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## michael1950

1 of the injectors broke on the inside, it has a seat that is chewed up. The spring in the top of the injector holds it down, I would need 1. I tried buying after market injectors, I bought from 3 different places on eBay and all are back ordered. I am checking the tractor junk yards to find at least 1. I have the manuals and the part number which is 3040870R94 fuel injector, I am sure that there are some around as that engine was used on other applications other than on the B414.


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## cyrush

that engine is used in dozens of applications !! and the CAV injector is avery common unit ??? Have you looked on the messicks parts site @

http://www.messicks.com/CAS/62748.aspx

that should help !!


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## michael1950

Thank you For advising me, I will have to call and see what I can locate. I will post what turns up,


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## michael1950

Messicks wasn't able to help at this time , so I'm back to the drawing board. I dropped the injectors off to see if they can be rebuilt or what else I can do with them.


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## bitzman

*order of fuel lines*

wonder if you have layout of fuel line from pump to injector


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## michael1950

I had the injectors rebuilt and (WOW) it was well worth it. I've owned this tractor for a couple years and it has never ran this good. The tractor starts up on a couple revolutions and purrrs along now. $300. for them to rebuild and replace the stems in them, now I'm ready to get some things done around here. I've replaced the injector pump and with rebuilt injectors, a small investment for a tractor that will handle many chores. Thanks for all your help,


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## cyrush

Yes good injectors make quite a difference!!

Do you need an operators or service manual?? I sell PDF copies of the genuine IH manuals, drop me a PM with your e mail address


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## mark1209

@ Goober1979:
"-MAKE SURE you note where your governor spring hooks into the governor arm and the throttle shaft. On B414's it should be the 2 hole on the arm and the 1 hole on the shaft.

-Make sure the spring does not get bound up in the throttle shaft hole during reassembly. This will make the engine run WIDE @$$ OPEN when it starts and have no throttle response. "

Those words alone and pretty much of your post made me save several thousand bucks, because otherwise I guess I would had blown a completely rebuild engine and an injection pump. Thanks, you sir are a gentleman and a scholar! I registered just to tell you that. 

Cheers

_______________
1966 IH B414 Diesel
1969 IH 434 Diesel with FEL
1973 MF 1085 with cab and FEL
1975 IH 574 Diesel
1977 Ford 4100


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## oneperfectrun

Hi everyone. New member here. 

Reviving an old thread here but I have a question. I've got an old B414 that I've owned for about 25 years. It's been parked for about 3 years with a bad pressure plate and release bearing. I finally got around to repairing it over this past weekend. Got it running now and it's dripping fuel from the injector pump at the throttle shaft. Can that seal be replaced on tractor and if so where is a good place to find the seal?

Thanks in advance for any info.


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## Blackbear

yes they can,look on ebay for cav pump seal kit.there like 15 usd for all the seals even though u only need a few for the top shafts and cover.
check youtube,there lots videos there on how to replace them,can be done without removing the pump.


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## oneperfectrun

Blackbear said:


> yes they can,look on ebay for cav pump seal kit.there like 15 usd for all the seals even though u only need a few for the top shafts and cover.
> check youtube,there lots videos there on how to replace them,can be done without removing the pump.


Thanks for the info Blackbear. 

Is there a model number for this pump other than just cav pump? Or does cav pretty much cover this particular pump? Just wanna make sure I order the right seal kit.


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## oneperfectrun

This kit look correct for the cav pump?


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## Blackbear

if your pump is a cav I would say yes.u should be able to tell if its the right one by looking at your top cover and compare it to the gasket in your picture.
they are all the same as far as I know.
look at youtube and watch a few videos before removing the top cover.there is a spring attatched to the throttle shaft that goes to the governor plate u must disconnect,it has to be put back on in the same holes.
you can figure out where it goes by the numbers on your pump,example sd90/600/5/2375
sd is injector type
90/600 is 90cc fuel at 600 rpm(pump)
5 is the governor spring position
2375 max no load rpm

the governor spring can be figured out buy a simple pattern

123
456
789

horzinzontal row 123 corresponds to hole in throttle shaft 1 being closest to governor plate
vertical row 147 corresponds to hole in governor plate,1 being top hole

so in above example of 5 it means middle hole in governor plate,middle hole in throttle shaft
3 would mean top hole in governor plate,3rd hole in throttle shaft(one closest to the shaft itself)


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## oneperfectrun

I really appreciate the information. I watched a YouTube video yesterday afternoon. Doesn't look to complicated as long as I keep the governor spring in the correct holes. I'll get a kit ordered soon and repair it. Thanks again.


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