# John Deere d130



## Dizzyrapper1505 (Apr 21, 2016)

So yea im a new owner!!!!! 
Glad to be with the JD family.
I had a troy built pony then exchanged it for the d130. I wanted the d140 but wouldn't fit through the gate. 
For 100$ more you get 3 cut blades bigger deck and 4 wheels on deck.
Sold me just for the 4 wheels as I have I slope and up and down yard. Hope I won't run the d130 too hard doing so. My nieghbor has a 110 or so and he does it good. But any who.

Who follows the service suggestions?
I got it delivered sunday and couldn't mow but drove it around. Seemed nice. Couldn't mow and a week later still Rainy and damp. Heard u shouldn't mow in that.

Ok, when It comes to 8 hrs I need to do my first service.
Says oil change and lube certain things. I know JD recommends using thier oil and such. But I want to know what else I can use???? Or stick w JD products??? 
Heard also if u use 1 oil stick w that for the life of tractor and don't switch. JD says use regular oil the first change then switch to synthetic if you want. 

Sorry for the long talk but I hope you can read and give me in ight for a new owner


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## Dizzyrapper1505 (Apr 21, 2016)

O and where is best place to buy the Greece and oil.
Huge thanks again


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The owners manual specifies the oil standard to use and service intervals, so you can purchase any compatible oils and filters you wish. 

The big hammer on the John Deere lawn tractors with the hydrostatic transmission is to remember to never idle the tractor and attempt to drive it. Start it, let it warm up, then open the throttle all the way and use the foot control to manage speed. This advice is applicable to all hydrostatic transmissions, big tractors to lawn equipment. The way the rotary shoes function in the driven side of the hydrostatic transmissions is such that they require full governed throttle to raise the hydrostatic oil pressure to the required level to firmly press the shoes to the housing so they seal correctly.

Good lawn tractor, and properly operated and maintained is one that will last for many years.


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## Dizzyrapper1505 (Apr 21, 2016)

Thanks. I didn't have throttle open all the way but will from now on. Just before choke.
For the oil it does say to use JD kind but I have heard people use Mobil 1 fulnsythentic etc. So was just wondering if it's smart to use other kinds or stay w the JD suggested oil.
I read in manual that after the first oil change u can switch to synthetic but should u or shouldnt?
Thanks


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

I buy my oil in bulk, and use John Deere Plus II, but any appropriately rated oil will do just fine. The specification you are looking for is as follows: API ratings: SL, SJ, SH, and that is right from the Turf-Guard bottle. Walk into Wally World, and you will find many oils that meet this specification.

As for synthetic, that is a personal choice. For the most part lawn and garden equipment never operates enough during a yard care season to justify the use of the more expensive synthetics. Typical lawn care equipment gets an oil change once a year and trying to operate more than one year on synthetic oil to justify the cost is risky because the additive packages used break down after a season of use and the oil must be changed anyway.


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## Dizzyrapper1505 (Apr 21, 2016)

Good to know. Thanks. What about lubing?
Says to do it 8 hrs 25 hrs etc.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Lubricating grease is inexpensive, so buy the best you can afford. Follow John Deere's guidelines for frequency.

I use Lubrication Engineer's or Hydrotex greases, of which the least quality is far better than what John Deere offers. AmsOil synthetic greases are also excellent.

The thing to remember about grease is that most of the commercial products are a mixture of fine clay, water, and oil all whipped into an emulsion. The quality products from AmsOil or the two firms I use, do not contain water or clay, so they do not break down and turn into an abrasive product over time. 

But, if you follow John Deere's maintenance schedule even their substandard products are adequate. Forget to grease a deck spindle bearing on schedule with that type of grease and it will wear out in short order.

Purchase of a John Deere lawn tractor is not like buying one of the disposable consumer products from Sears or the Big Box Stores, take care of it and it will last longer than you will ever want to use it. 

Another issue that has been discussed endlessly, do not buy gasoline with alcohol blend for you power equipment. Spend the extra money and use gasoline without any alcohol blends, and avoid fuel system corrosion. The pump gasoline used in cars can contain alcohol because so much of it is used that it does not turn to acid in the fuel system, but on lawn and garden equipment it is common for fuel to set for weeks to months and then go bad, eat away the carburetor, and end up with starting and running problems and expensive repairs.


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## Dizzyrapper1505 (Apr 21, 2016)

Ok sounds good.
Where can I find the gas from? Is it premium at the pump?
I get unleaded for my vehicle at road ranger which is on the website that names the best places for fuels. Forget what it's called. 
Do I need to bleed out the old Greece or just keep adding when need be?
Can u give me a list of 2 
Engine oils and filters for me to look at and a couple of the greeses. 
Ill go to store and get them. Coming up on my 8 hr maintenance. Only at .5 hrs lol
Thanks for the help.


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## Dizzyrapper1505 (Apr 21, 2016)

I bought my tractor from lowes. I called JD and said its the same that they sell in thier store. 
Bucks which is a JD authorized seller and mechanic comes out to inspect before sales.
I'd prolly go thier for my supplies
Thanks again


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## Dizzyrapper1505 (Apr 21, 2016)

I got plus 50 II and an oil filter. 23$
Seems expensive.
They carry thier own greeses at thier store and I got a guy that didn't understand about the mixture.
He said that's what thier mechanics use in the shop and stuff.


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