# Helllllp.... ford 3000 about a 75 model...



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

Well,,,, I will move my business over to a new thread, like Big T told me to do....
I have a Ford 3000 tractor,, nothing special.... 
I have a problem with the hydroloic lift system.... it would pick up my box blade , full range with the center link unhooked but will not pick it up at all with the center link hooked up..... Me and my neighbor , who is a farmer and a lot more familiar with tractors than I am,, took the top assembly/seat off and found a piece of linkage to the lever on the right side had come unhooked.... big grins... we found the problem.... wrong.... got it back together ,, same blasted thing.... 
then we decided that the pump was starving for oil... and started looking for the intake screen... cant find it.... Next, I decided to take the back of the pump off and see if it was plugged up there.... I did,,,and there was nothing that i could see,,, and in the process,, I dropped and lost one of the little springs that goes against the check balls .... brilliant , huh.... the reason, I did all that is when we were into the diff housing , I noticed that some jerk had used blue glue to seal the top assembly with and I know that stuff will get into a system and plug stuff up..... I am actually a certified Ford automobile mechanic , but I was certified in 1962 and until I bought this tractor , have never worked on a tractor before....I bought the tractor from a neighbor after he bought it and I rebuilt the engine... that was the first time I had worked on a ford diesel tractor engine.... 
I need to know how to find/remove and clean the intake screen to that lift system and what are my options on rebuilding/swapping the pump....
that is the background , I want to get the system in first class shape and naturally to save as much money as possible.. cause i am living on retirement pay.... besides that,, I care about how it is fixed more than anybody I know.....


----------



## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

Attached are 3 diagrams of the hydraulic system under the lift cover. The screen & filter you are searching for are illustrated on the diagram entitled "Flow Control Valve and Hydraulic Lines". The suction screen (item #60) is at the bottom of the reservoir, and difficult to get to. You have to remove the PTO shaft to get it out. Guys normally replace the return line filter (item #50), and clean the suction screen.

You can get a rebuild kit for your hydraulic pump. 

You need to get a service manual or a shop manual for your tractor before you get too deep into the project. Tractor Supply stores, Ebay, internet sources all have manuals available.


----------



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

*my tractor.....*

I hear you Big T,,,, 
I removed the hydro pump and went thru it, made sure every thing was clean and in good mechanical shape.... then I put new gaskets in it.... 
Filled the sump with oil and started the tractor,,, the pump primed up and was working fine, but the lift arms still would not pick up the box blade... A local had told me that the plunger that hooks to the center link was ''over tripped'' so I un hooked the center link and the lift arms still would not pick up the box.... then, with the tractor still running , on impulse,,, correction,,, on stupid impulse, I picked up a big hammer and whacked the center link yolk..... the hydro pump blew the gasket at the back of the pump out and oil sprayed all over everything.... major mess.....
I did get the offical ford/new holland shop manual for it , yesterday though,,,, and tomorrow I will tackle it again.... if it aint raining.... today I have to teach a class at church.... I have figured out that God is teaching me ''patience'' and He is using the tractor to do it....
In reading thru the shop manual,,, I notice that all the adjustments to the linkages under the lift arm cover is just ''use this number gage or that number gage and not actual measurements.... how in the world is a man gonna adjust that stuff without having the gages or the measurements....????
Many years ago , for a year , I worked in a fork lift shop as a mechanic and most of this stuff is just like those systems were.... you are looking for leakage, or blockage of the system for the source of the problem.... one way or another.... 
Also, I noticed in the manual that the draft control can be blocked out with a washer/shim .... and I assume that the lift arms would still work .... all I will ever want to do is drag a box blade with the tractor ,,, I thought about doing that....
what do you think????
right now I am inclined to take the cover off and completely go thru it,, cleaning and checking and replacing all the seals, O rings, filters.... ect. and adjusting the linkage measurements before putting it all back together.... 
Any thing that I should be looking for,,, [I know, dont whack anything else....]
As a side note, the local tractor dealership told me that '' If some one else besides us works on the control/lift system , we wont touch it.... '' only thing is I aint got the money to pay them 90 dollars a hour to fix this thing ,,, so I gotta fix it myself....


----------



## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

Doc,

I don't know what exactly happened when you whacked the top link yoke. It appears that there was no pressure relief in the system - at least momentarily. 

I would fix the pump seal and see if you are back to where you were prior to this incident.

I wonder if the draft control system was triggered with the hammer blow?? There is a small lever on the right side just under the seat. This is the draft/position control lever. The "up" lever position is for "position control" - used for lifting implements and holding them in position. The "down" lever position is for "draft control" - used primarily for plowing. The lift does not work as well in the draft position. 

Make sure your lever is in the "up" position. 

Have you checked the fluid level (and fluid quality - sometimes there is water/condensation on bottom) in the rear differential section?


----------



## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

Duplicate message, sorry....I don't know how to delete..


----------



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

*my 3000.....with the lift that dont work....*

 Well,,, T ,,,, the saga continues.... today I went to the dealer and got all the o rings for the lift system and the pump gasket that blew out.... 
I did not work on the tractor today because I was recovering from sticker shock ... :dazed:and it was raining close around... and I did not want to get the thing torn down and have to worry about getting water in it.... but,,,,,
Here is the grand plan,,,, I am going to pull the top back off the gearbox and then take it apart and replace all the o rings, and the slave piston seal.... talk about sticker shock,,,, $25 for that little plastic circle..... 
then I intend to set all the linkage adjustments, if I can figure them out... I asked the dealer here locally about buying a set of the gages illustrated in the shop manual.... they said they did not have a set and they could not get any... does anybody know the measurements that are correct???? I hate to just swag it.... 
anyway,,, I will clean the metal screen in the sump and replace the filter and o rings and clean and adjust the linkages as well as I can and then put it all back together again and see how it does.....The dealer mechanic said that the pump front seal would wear a ring around the shaft and lose pressure that way... but all that looked real good when i was into it.... did not have any blue glue in the system like I thought it would have....
Wish me luck.... good luck Doc,,,,,


----------



## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

Good Luck Doc.

While you are in there, one additional thing you need to check is the cam follower pin (item #52 on attached diagram). It gets a groove worn in it from wear over the years. P/N is 374072S. It is hardened steel 5/16" x 7/8". Costs about $6. 

Also the cam (item #52 on the attached diagram) gets a groove worn it that you can build up with weld back to its original configuration.


----------



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

well,,, they just dont make stuff like they used to.... the gasket #34 only popped in 3 places....   i will check the stuff you told me about..... 
I really appreciate the suggestions and pics.... those have helped a lot.... i will keep pecking at it untill I get the thing working....
At this point , I am thinking that I will find a relief valve somewhere that is clogged or stuck.... or some crud in a passage... but I am blowing those out with compressed air....
Doc


----------



## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

The unloader valve is often a culprit (gets stuck). You need to pull it if you can, visually check it, and install new o-rings. Items #12 - #15 on the attached diagram. It's mounted in the lift cylinder.


----------



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

Well,,, i got the pump back together and have torn down the top assembly again.... i did find another piece of linkage that was broken,,, the pin that works off the cam on the lift arms.... and,,,, I found a valve that I cannot budge in the lift piston assembly.... it is the one that has a bolt hole threaded into it.... and is behind the little metal shield held by 2 bolts..... 
I looked at the safety valve and couldn't see anything wrong with it.... but also could not test it..... 
the controll valve was clean and moved easily in the bore.... 
I intend to install new seals and the ring on the lift piston.... 
all new 0 rings... and the screen gets cleaned and the filter replaced... that is really odd that ford puts the filter on the return line instead of on the suction side....strange.... 
any advice????


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Quote: "I found a valve that I cannot budge in the lift piston assembly.... it is the one that has a bolt hole threaded into it.... and is behind the little metal shield held by 2 bolts..... "

I think you are referring to the unloader valve. 

Use a slidehammer to pull the threaded plug. Spray it with WD-40, PB Blaster, etc. Alternatively, put a bolt in it and work it out with an closed end wrench. Pull the threaded plug on the other end as well.

You want to pull the valve out, not the valve and bushings. Can you get a punch in through a back hole and tap on it??


----------



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

*The continuing saga.......continues....*

 Well, I did pull the lift system cover and have completely gone through it.... so far I have found all the control valves to be free and without any burrs or foreign junk in them.... I pulled the lift cyl piston and found the big o ring and the plastic sq. ring completely worn out... all the way , plumb....
I replaced every one of the o rings between the assemblies.... and found the pin that rides on the cam that is on the lift arms was completely worn out and gone... I went and bought a pin and it did not fit at all.... so I tapped the linkage arm and installed a hardened 3/8 bolt and cut it to length.... I meant to replace the factory set safety valve, but found out that it cost $117 so I decided to leave it in there and just see if it works right first ....then I removed the lift lever assembly that controls the height and up and down setting... cleaned it up and fabbed a new clutch disc and gasket for it and painted it all up.... I am ready to start putting the whole thing together again... gonna drain the oil and clean the metal screen on the pick up line and replace the paper filter as I do,,,,, hope it all works this time.....


----------



## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

Outstanding report Doc! 

The cam follower pin you fabricated should work fine. You can put epoxy on the threads and tighten it up to ensure it stays in place. 

Was the cam badly worn?? You can build it up with weld and grind it back to the original configuration if necessary. 

You didn't mention the unloader valve, but hopefully you checked it for freedom of movement and replaced the o-rings. 

Good Luck in getting it all back together.


----------



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

I did peen the dowel that i made to keep it from coming out.... and the original one was worn completely through and broke off... could not possibly work....the cam was just fine though....
i am going to take care of the unloader valve this A M.... and finish cleaning/ assembling everything and painting it..... I sure am glad that I have you guys to keep me straight....


----------



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

Well,,, I did get the unloader valve out and guess what,,,, all it had for a o ring was 2 little pieces about 1/2'' long.... so i checked the valve and it was clean and not binding at all, so I put a new 0 ring on it and reinstalled it and the plug.......so far I have assembled a good collection of worn out 0 rings and pins....there aint no way on God's green earth that this system was working like the guy said.....


----------



## DocModisett (Jul 24, 2012)

Well,,, Yesterday I finished the job.... after 2 neighbors came over and helped me wrestle the top cover back on the tractor..... the experience of rebuilding the system was good for me,,, i learned that you have to drop the pto shaft out and the coupler for it out, to get the intake screen out to clean it.... the return line filter and the intake filter were completely stopped up.... cleaned the one and replaced the other....then I went through the whole system and replaced every O ring and seal in there.... found several bad ones... and the piston ring and o ring on the main lift piston were completely gone.... and there was a ton of sludge in the bottom of the case along with a big ol grasshopper.... did not find any bats or chinches in there though....
Got it all back together and bingo,,, it worked just fine,,, picks the box blade up , holds it where you set it and drops it on command.... I was amazed..... 
Thanks to you guys for the good solid info.... much better than what the local tractor dealer told me.... they said , we dont change the filters,,, we just pour some diesel in there to clean em out and let em ride.... yeah,, right..... 
Any way , it all works just fine now.... thanks guys.....
Doc.


----------

