# Ford 2000 hard starting 1st time each day



## Guest (May 23, 2017)

Background: I grew up with a 9N in the 60's and did a lot of snowplowing and vegetable garden preparation in the springs. It would always start in less than severe weather, if the new distributor cap hadn't already cracked to allow moisture in. We won't mention starting in cold weather with the 6 volt system!

Now, 50 years later, I have been able to purchase a gas 1968 3 cylinder Ford 2000. (Hard to believe that what was brand new at the dealer is now actually an antique and over 50 years old) It seems that when the engine is warm (has been running) it fires and starts almost before you turn the ignition switch. However, on that first start of the day, regardless of weather, it will not fire without ether. Yes, it's the Holley carb. 

For the off chance that the starting procedure in the original owner's manual may work, I go through the routine each day.....throttle closed and crank for 10 seconds; then when this doesn't work, open the throttle somewhat and pull out the choke and try for 10 seconds; then when this also doesn't work, I wait a bit because it's now flooded, push the choke in halfway, and try again for 10 seconds. Rarely does any of this work and this is usually when I reach for the ether.

Any suggestions? My capabilities lie somewhere in the middle of holding my tongue right to actually rebuilding a carb.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello Grayson, welcome to the tractor forum.

You could do a compression test on your engine to see what condition it is in. If compression is less than 100 psi, you have your answer. 

If it cranks too slow, you lose some compression during cranking/starting process. You will have to be the judge on cranking speed. Maybe have the starter rebuilt, cables replaced, cleanup the ground connections.


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Hi Graysonr,

The reason your engine starts better after running for a while is that the rings get oil wet while running and give you a little better seal/compression. 

Does it use much oil?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

You might also consider the fuel you're using. Back then gas was GAS, not corn syrup. Even the cheap stuff was well above 90 octane, contained lead(I know... dirty word) and would vaporize far better than what we get now. This stuff sold today will hardly burn when you set a match to it, no wonder it's hard to ignite unless it's fuel injected. 
Add that to a poorly performing old carburetor and what you're experiencing is often the result. I suggest you spring for some higher octane fuel, maybe some lead additive, maybe some octane booster or whatever. See what that gains you before jumping in with a bunch of replacement parts the quality of which are always suspect anyway. If that doesn't help. then explore other options.


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## Guest (May 23, 2017)

*Thanks for response Big T*

I did not unfortunately understand the reasons for the parameters of the compression test set up. ie: I did not open throttle fully and shut off the gas to the engine. However with these errors on my part, compression tested 90, 84, and 90. No fouling on the old plugs and exhaust burns clean.


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## Guest (May 23, 2017)

*Thanks for your response Harvey W*

Engine shows no sign of oil use, either at the dip stick nor in the exhaust. Thanks.


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## Guest (May 23, 2017)

*Thanks for your response Fedup*

I'm using Shell 89 octane with no ethanol in it. But good point, this thing wanted lead! I appreciate your suggestion.


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## Guest (Jun 15, 2017)

Thanks for your interest in my post.

An update to the hard starting problem. When first purchased, this 2000 had a small battery sitting loose in the battery tray. This battery seemed to lose it's desire to turn the engine over rather quickly. I removed it, took it to an auto parts store for testing, and found it had 1 dead cell. At the time I purchased a new, properly sized battery which turned out to be immediately defective. So back to the store and another new battery. Over a period of a few weeks, this battery also weakened and with another trip to the store, it tested good, but didn't have a full charge. Store offered to fully charge it, at which point it then tested bad! So now on 3rd new battery! Engine cranks and starts. (3 times in 2 days). In the meantime I scored an original equipment battery hold down and rods to fasten it to the battery tray.

I have a long standing relationship with a reputable auto repair shop in town and the owner has a 1965 tractor. He's recommended a good tractor mechanic (the 3rd successful start was to load the 2000 onto this mechanics trailer) I have high hopes that he can make sure the charging system, ignition system/timing, and carburetor/fuel pump are all performing at peak performance, and that the valves are adjusted. He's also going to advise me on the relative need for an overhaul.

I look forward to the time when I know this 2000 well enough to rely more on my knowledge, but at this time, I simply do not know this 2000 and what is normal or abnormal. Then again, the auto mechanic takes his tractor to the tractor mechanic and the tractor mechanic takes his trucks to the auto mechanic. Is there a lesson there?

In the process of learning what I'm up against with the carb, I found that I have the original style carb for this 2000 but the gasket on the Air Horn gasket is not properly seated, leaving a gaping hole along one edge. Does anyone have a thought what this would cause?

Seems I've read somewhere that the oem generators are not able to charge a modern battery properly and that alternators with proof meter drives are a good idea. Any thoughts on this?

Before the hard starting issue came up, I had replaced 2 front tires and 1 front wheel that was corroded at the valve stem and had ordered a new rear rim in preparation to put a matching rim and tire on the rear. I do believe that tires like shoes should be worn in pairs. However, mechanical issues have to come first. I don't need a barn queen, and while I admit that my 2000 is largely a project/hobby/toy, I do have a use for it from time to time. I do not yet admit to myself that I am "restoring" it.


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## belchermw (Apr 4, 2017)

I bought a 67 with same problem. Rebuilt carb, I found the float was too high causing flooding. I set float level, float tang ( to keep float from dropping down) and flooding carb. Adjusted timing, set points put in new plugs and it got better. The point n plug gap r smaller than an automobile which required a service manual to learn. 

I choke it n it starts most of the time. When it didn't, I found governor/throttle rod was holding throttle slightly open. When I close the throttle by hand at carb, it starts. 

I adjusted throttle shaft linkage n it got better. I still need to find the linkage problem that is holding throttle slightly open, as it wont idle below 950 rpm using throttle control.

I hope this is encouraging to you.


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## Guest (Jun 16, 2017)

Thanks belchermw, this is indeed encouraging. I will try your suggestion of hand closing the throttle at the carb when I get it back from the mechanic.

I had a long talk with my neighbor (a semi-retired head mechanic at a local car dealer who is now working at an antique auto restorer on demand) who I try not to take advantage of (he's offered to rebuild the carb for a great steak plus parts), last evening. The jist of his comments is that with a marginal compression situation, that I've got to have the best possible performance from the charging system, the ignition (mine came with points and condenser replaced with a solid state device) system, and the carburetor to get a reliable start. When my recommended new mechanic picked up my 2000 on Tuesday, those were the exact instructions I gave him. Not knowing the age of the generator, but regardless of age, I may have windings shorted in the generator causing inadequate battery charging. Upon return from the recommended tractor mechanic, I will check the voltage at the battery terminals with the engine running, looking for 13.5 - 14.5 volts. Also plan to hook up an automatic battery tender.

As a side note, I've heard some conversation on here that the original generators are not able to deal with modern batteries and that alternators with a proof meter drive are now available.


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## Guest (Jul 1, 2017)

Got my Ford 2000 back this morning and man am I impressed! It starts and runs like a new machine and just as the owner's manual says it should. To keep it simple, the mechanic cleaned the carburetor thoroughly and replaced the mangled air gap gasket, re-gapped the spark plugs to what the solid state ignition requires and I notice the timing has been changed, and he replaced the original Ford generator with an alternator. Along the way, he repaired other sniggling issues, and the final bill was less than his estimate. I knew I was behind on the learning curve when I purchased this 50 year old tractor, but perhaps I just learned 2 important lessons. First, a dealer to avoid, and 2nd, a d**n good tractor mechanic. Bottom line, if you need a tractor mechanic in this part of NC, I'll give you his name and phone.


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## belchermw (Apr 4, 2017)

Mine does not have power steering and is very hard to turn the wheel. I checked steering box(it has grease in it). I thought it was supposed to have oil?
Greased all fittings etc. Thinking about aftermarket power strg kit. Any advice 


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## Guest (Oct 6, 2017)

Yes supposed to have I think 80w90 in the steering housing. I have this in mine, but got a leak on the right steering arm and ever so slowly wiping it off the transmission casing. I have heard some talk of substituting 80w140 or John Deere cornhead grease which is actually a fluid (liquid) grease. This is hard to come by, so some people are using 0 or 00 grease (also a fluid/liquid) available at NAPA stores and other places. One of the regulars on here said steering a 2000 should be easy enough unless you have a FEL. The leaking issue is very common on these Fords using the recommended 80w90 oil. Parts are probably available to rebuild the steering housing. I'd make sure something else isn't binding up the steering. Sorry I've no clue how to get that heavy grease out so you can free up the steering. Is it full to the filling/view port?


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## Guest (Oct 6, 2017)

Home Forums> CUT & Big Tractor Manufacturer Forums> Ford / New Holland>
* Power Steering Conversion kit from All States Ag Parts for Ford 2000 3 cylinder gas *
look at this thread


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## belchermw (Apr 4, 2017)

Just about to top. I will work on getting the grease out n ck for binding. Thx



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## Guest (Oct 7, 2017)

Good luck! I hope you will let me know what you find as far as anything in the steering binding, and how you get the heavy grease out. I'm always willing to learn. Thanks.


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