# Simplicity 7116H



## junkpile

Hi, First post here, I found this forum through a Google search.
I just picked up a really clean looking 7116H, probably from the early 80's or so that is missing its engine. I have a good running, low hours Briggs Stratton 16hp but it's recoil start with a gear starter.
What do I need to mate this engine to the 7116H? All I see now is an open ended tubular driveshaft with a slot and a hole in it. I can see by the direction that the drive shaft needs to turn that it has to have driven from the flywheel side.
Does anyone here know what list of parts I need to mate this motor to this tractor?
At least if I know what I'm looking for I may have a better chance of finding it.


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## chrpmaster

Welcome to the Tractor Forum Junkpile!

Not sure about the technical part of your question but one of the more knowledgable guys will stop by soon and lend a hand. It might help to post a picture of the driveshaft and the crank of the motor.


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## junkpile

I picked up a parts machine today which had the driveshaft end I needed. At least I think it will work. The parts tractor is a 7117H which had a Briggs 17HP Twin in it. The motor is gone but the rest of the tractor is complete. I also got a few spare drive shafts with it but no engine coupler. The issue is now did the twin cylinder use the same driveshaft as the big single cylinder 16hp? I know the motor side will most likely be different due to the different flywheel.


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## arts

Junkpile, I have a 7117H and I am sure the drive shafts from the 7117 are the same as the 7116. I am currently rebuilding a 7012 and the drive shafts on this are the same as the 7117.
I question the motor that was in the 7117 parts tractor as being original as most those had the Kohler 17 twin. Regardless you have an excellent tractor.
M7117H had a blown Kohler 17 twin when purchased and repowered it with an Onan 18 twin


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## junkpile

I can't say 100% for certain what was in this, I was told by the last owner that he took out a 17HP Briggs twin, but I myself didn't see the old motor. He had many tractors there, all minus their engines but in pretty decent looking shape. 

The driveshaft on the 7117 is different on the end than the one in a 7016 in that the 7117H shaft has a pilot bushing or protruding shaft beyond the 2 bolt flange. 
There is also a spring and center pin in the middle. The driveshaft is disconnected from the pump too. Did both ends bolt direct to the opposing flange or does this use a round flange or ragjoint like on the 7016?


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## junkpile

I sort of answered part of my own question above, I found a parts list for the 7117 on line, it shows a coupler between the engine and shaft, and one between the shaft and pump. What is this coupler made from? I see they want $22 each for what appears to be pretty thin metal or fiber? Could I use a standard rag joint as is use in car steering? If not I was thinking of just using a steel plate drilled to fit. I suppose anything that has some flex would work so long as it's drilled properly? 
I find it hard to swallow $50+ dollars with shipping for two coupler discs.

I am still trying to find out what the engine side coupler or adapter is supposed to look at. Just sitting the motor in the engine compartment leaves the shaft about 6" away from the flywheel. There must be some sort of adapter and bolt on stub shaft?
The parts listing don't show anything for the engine side?

They do list several different drive shafts, they list an early and late for both models, but all the 3400 and 7000 series tractors seem to share driveshafts. 

I guess I need to find a driveshaft for a 7116H to make the single cylinder Briggs work, along with all the couplers and attaching hardware.


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## arts

The round coupling disks are just 2 thin pieces of plastic. I will get the dimensions
for you and post them. They are not very thick.


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## junkpile

> _Originally posted by arts _
> *The round coupling disks are just 2 thin pieces of plastic. I will get the dimensions
> for you and post them. They are not very thick. *


Thanks!

I was looking over the parts lists and there a late and early 7117H driveshaft, one looks like it uses a thick 'compression' block between the motor and the shaft, this looks like mine. 
They also list a different drive shaft for both the 7117 and 7116 models, as well as an early and late 7117 shaft. Hydro and gear are different again. 
I'm wondering if maybe I can just make up a thicker disk or add a spacer to the flywheel adapter? If not I may be custom making a driveshaft. 
The front area of the frame is pretty different between the 7117 and 7116 models, the 7117 is wider and has the sides notched or just made lower to accommodate the twin cylinders. There are multiple bolt patterns on the engine plate but none match the 16hp Briggs nor does the crank line up.

The shaft on the 7117H is too short to reach the 16hp briggs using the stock flywheel adapter from either a 3415H or the 7016S motors, its between 4 and 5 inches short. I don't want to push the motor back any farther than the edge of the motor plate, and I don't want to modify the battery tray area. If I mount it where it looks like it sits right and where I can make use of the crank end for a snow blower, the motor is nearly 7 inches to far from the drive shaft. 

The Kohler motor must have had a shaft extension sticking out from the flywheel at least 4 inches or so. The Briggs is also a narrower block, meaning that the distance from the top of the crank adapter to the output shaft is less than what was that of the twin Kohler I guess. This just means I need to make a longer shaft to keep everything functional. I'm not even sure if the shaft from a 7116 would fit. 

Does anyone have a 7116 hydrostatic that you could measure the length of the driveshaft itself? (Shaft flange to shaft flange on each end).


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## junkpile

> _Originally posted by arts _
> *The round coupling disks are just 2 thin pieces of plastic. I will get the dimensions
> for you and post them. They are not very thick. *


I have some fiber reinforced pvc here, it was used as shielding on high speed cutting operations in manufacturing. 
Its about 1/8" thick, semi flexible but very rigid, but it don't crack. It's similar to a plastic barrel but with fiber reinforcement. 
I can make a set from this stuff. 
I found a pulley and adapter from a Briggs 16 on eBay so once that's here I can figure the bolt patterns. The hard part will be getting the bolt pattern centered and equal. 

I thought about using steering rag joints but it looks like the shaft bolt pattern is wider than the crank bolt pattern?


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