# Ford 3000 dual clutch removal



## rexkirkland (May 17, 2017)

Total novice here trying to learn. Tractor is split. Ready to remove clutch for rebuilding or replacing. IT manual, para 185 says ". . ._ depress release levers and secure to clutch cover with wire; then unbolt and remove cover assembly_". . . No amount of force I could apply to the release levers would budge them. The only way I could find to attach wire was around the back ends - short ends - of the levers, where the center links and lever links are. I don't think this is right. I decided to loosen some of the mounting bolts (six of them, right?) to see what it felt like. I immediately realized there is a great deal of spring pressure from the PTO Springs on the back side of the cover plate, so I stopped loosening the bolts and re-tightened the ones I had loosened, awaiting better directions.

Now I'm at a loss as to how to proceed. Any suggestions? The Ford Tractor Service Manual (different from the IT Shop Manual) mentions a special Compressor Tool SW13b and hold-down clips to depress and hold the release levers, in place of the wire, I guess. I don't have the special tool, of course, and can't find it on line. I was wondering if someone could provide alternative directions. Obviously, I am missing something.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy rexkirkland, welcome to the tractor forum.

My I&T manual for a Ford 3600 also says to wire the levers down. The special tool comes with clips to fasten the levers to the clutch cover. I have small C-Clamps that I think would clamp the levers down.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Are you replacing the hole clutch assembly. If yes I just removed the bolts and discarded the clutch. New clutch comes already adjusted and little blocks installed under levers for installation. Once installed remove blocks and your done. Be sure to order a clutch with line up tool and pilot bearing replacement. Allso while your there replace the release bearing. All this cost me approximately 500 to 600$ last year. Good luck


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## rexkirkland (May 17, 2017)

sixbales: I believe I can use C-clamps, too. I now see a way to wire it, too. Maybe I'll do both to be safe. Thanks for your help.

dozer966: My intention was to rebuild with new wear parts and reinstall. (I'm a skinflint on a tight budget). I think I have what I need to make the adjustments, if I understand the manuals and other posts I have read. If I see it's more than I want to deal with I'll go with a new, pre-adjusted clutch as you say. My main problem was not understanding why I couldn't depress the release levers before wiring or clamping them down. Maybe "depress" simply means to hold them in position. Thanks for the advice.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Can you put a small block under the lever hinges to hold them down?


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Yes . When my new clutch came in there were little plastic blocks under the arms and then removed after installation.


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## rexkirkland (May 17, 2017)

*Bit the Bullet*

Well, I finally "bit the bullet" and wired the release levers, adjustment screw ends to holes in the PTO pressure plate (I think - see Fig 1, below), and unbolted the cover assembly from the flywheel. Found some things I didn't expect:

Fig 1: Release Levers wired








(1) This clutch has a torsion damper in the transmission disc (Fig 2). The damper is not shown in any illustrations I have seen in the IT Manual, Service manual, or any parts illustrations, at least not for the model 3000 tractor. Why do I have it? My theory is maybe somebody in the past substituted a non-standard part for some reason. I don't see any problem as long as critical dimensions (e.g., thickness) are ok. Anybody have any thoughts on this?

Fig 2:Transmission Disk with Torsion Damper








(2) To my unpracticed eye there appears to be very little wear on any wear surfaces I can see. No rivet heads exposed, no scoring on flywheel or transmission pressure plate (see Figures 2, 3 &4). 

Fig 3: Flywheel








You can even see part of the original part number stenciled on the surface of the friction disk, Fig 4 even after years of use. I don't have the cover assembly apart yet (working piecemeal, a little at a time), but I expect to find about the same on PTO wear surfaces. I am beginning to think my basic problem all along was poor adjustment rather than wear.

Fig 4: Transmission Friction Disk








Should I replace the disk with torsion damper or just reassemble and go for a proper adjustment? Will have an update when I finally get the cover assembly apart.


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## rexkirkland (May 17, 2017)

I finally got around to disassembling the clutch assembly, using three 5" C-clamps to compress the assembly while removing pins, struts and links. Everything looked perfectly fine to me, including almost no wear on pressure plates and discs. The only irregularity I could see was one broken lever link (Fig 1, below). This is item 5 on Fig 179 of the I&T manual. Don't know why it broke, but I suspect the whole clutch was not adjusted or assembled properly, especially the external pedal linkage. For example, Fig 2 shows the position of the clutch stop when the pedal is released (up). The stop screw is almost all the way out, and may be bent. I think the cross-shaft lever may not be positioned properly on the throwout bearing cross-shaft. Is that even possible? Also the clevis on the clutch pedal rod is screwed on to the threaded rod as far as it will go. Just doesn't look right, and probably isn't. I need to look at this cross-shaft assembly and linkage more closely.

Fig 1. Broken Lever Link








Fig 2. Clutch Pedal Stop, Pedal Up








Fig 3. Clutch Pedal Stop, Pedal Fully Depressed









In the meantime, I intend to order a pair of lever links and throwout and pilot bearings, and see if I can find an alignment tool. If I'm lucky, I may get out of this whole episode pretty cheap. Does anyone think I should replace any of the other links, etc? Any advice you could offer will be deeply appreciated.


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## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

you are already in there, so I would


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

remove the flywheel and replace the rear main crank seal while you are at it


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