# Starter/solenoid ???



## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

2008 Deere 3520 with 850 hours purchased 2 years ago. Worked without issues until last weekend. Error message "70"' re starter and see dealer as repair option. 
Panel lights up on "acc" option on starter switch (ss) but when turned to start (st) starter solenoid clicks and starter does not engage. I turned the key just before this began and my finger slipped off the key just as the started engages - half second of engaging. Next time nothing.
Does this sound like a bad solenoid? Does anyone know the Deere part number? Can't find it on line. Could the starter be jammed from the prior quick/failed start? How much time trouble to change? Thanks George

C

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## drmonsterbrain (Jun 7, 2013)

Possibly bad solenoid. If u still have probs, message back.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

To work without issues then all of a sudden give you problems. It could be a bad solenoid. I'd look at all the wire connections first and look at the battery connections and cables where they mount to the frame and solenoid.


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## herdsman (Jun 7, 2012)

It wouldn't hurt to give the engine a little turn by hand or by putting in a high gear and rocking it - that starter might be jammed. Not likely, but costs nothing to try it.

Found this online, FWIW:

Value: Err 70
Description: Starter Relay ON.
Problem Source: Output from the Display is short circuit.
Machine Response: Can not crank the engine.
Action: Contact your John Deere dealer.


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

Thanks to all for the comments and suggestions. Have been away from computer working on the problem. The starting problem was fixed only to be followed bt hydraulic line failure. For those interested:

Deere does not list the starter solenoid as a 'solenoid'. It's a " switch" on the same parts page as the starter and priced at $115.00. Need to remove starter and replace ( bolt off/on) new part. Removed hydraulic vacuum hose and loosened bracket for steering line for ease of access. Disconnected battery from charger and same result, click, click, click.

Tried a jump start and fired right up. Hate to say it but learned a $115.00 and afternoon of running around and wrench turning when it appears it may have been a bad battery from the start. First tractor and apparently the battery goes bad without advanced notice.

THEN started work with the loader and first scoop "bang"' and hydraulic fluid sprayed from supply line right before the quick connect coupling. New line is on back order. They're a pain to connect to the SCV as it requires rear wheel and fender removal - actually draining the rear wheel fluid and then removal. DO KNOW IF ITS PRUDENT TO CHANGE ALL FOUR AS PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE - about $45 each since its so involved?

Has anyone had success in repairing the pressure side of a line? My thought was to split a piece of steel tubing slightly larger than the line and wrap the damaged area then silver solder in placed. Use a hose clamp or two as added security. Will likely close and solder the breech as well. Should be able to remove fitting and repair in place.

Any/all suggestions appreciated.

George


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## okfarmer (Jun 7, 2013)

sorry about the troubles works that way some times . probably too much preasur to hold with a splice ,can your replace the hyd line with a hose that might be easier to get in place? lots of work otherwise good luck


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## drmonsterbrain (Jun 7, 2013)

Ur best shot at repair will be to take a hammer and try to close the opening. Then braze the area. I've done this repair successfully for farmers when parts weren't available.


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

Any suggestion for a fitting that will hold the pressure if I attach a rubber hydraulic hose to the end of a piece of cut tubing? Does a normal SS hose clamp hold?


Thanks

G


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## drmonsterbrain (Jun 7, 2013)

Not a good idea. A risk of injection injury. Not safe, it won't hold.


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## herdsman (Jun 7, 2012)

georgeg said:


> Any suggestion for a fitting that will hold the pressure if I attach a rubber hydraulic hose to the end of a piece of cut tubing? Does a normal SS hose clamp hold?


That only works for a low pressure return line. Those high pressure hoses are tough and expensive for a reason!


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

Thanks for the reinforcement. I previously tried to use a brass plumbing adapter for a part time fix until I could get a hyd fitting . The pressure distorted the brass threads and the fitting failed. Learned my lesson from that earlier experience.

drmonster - based on your experience for PM should I bite the bullet and replace all four lines while the tire and fender is off? or is incident not indicative of problems with the other lines doing the same job? It's a 2008 Deere 3520 with about 850 hours.


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## drmonsterbrain (Jun 7, 2013)

That's not a common failure. I would do just the one.


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

Thanks. Are the hyd lines made from extruded steel or rolled over a mandrill and have a 'seam'? They look seamless but if there is a seam of sort I'll take the time and do a close inspection.

Appreciate your time, input and expertise.


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