# Ford 3000 won't stay started



## Fordtruckguy5 (Mar 5, 2017)

My 3000 will start right off but as soon as the key switch is released from the start position to the run position it shuts off. If left in the start position it continues to crank and run. I removed the sediment bowl and cleaned it and the filter, there was gas there and it starts off right away every time so I'm leaning more towards an electrical issue than gas.

I have 12 volts at the key switch terminal that goes to the ignition coil and 12 volts were it connects to the ignition coil. That wire is in rough shape so I tried bypassing it with a new wire which when tested overheated the wire and connector. It seems there may be some kind of resistor build into the wire (that is not shown in the wiring diagram) so I have put it back the way it was and have still have the original problem.

Related or coincidence? The stinger shaft for the front mounted hydraulic pump broke over the weekend so I had to remove the hood, grill, and radiator to replace it. After that job was completed the tractor started right up and test ran with no issue. It sat for 2 days and developed this problem.

I'm thinking possibly a bad ignition coil, but I'm no mechanic so any thoughts are greatly appreciated!


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

You will find the both the Service and Operator's Manuals in the manuals section, tab above. I would start there and test the wiring accordingly. It may be as simple as the ignition coil is failing, will generate enough spark in the start position when it receives a full 12 volts, but not when the key is in the run position when it will be receiving 8 volts if the resistor is present.


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## Fordtruckguy5 (Mar 5, 2017)

Thanks for the reply RC! Hard copies of both manuals came with the tractor when I bought it and have helped me out of quite a few jams. With the key in the run position I have 12 volts on the lug heading to the ignition coil. I also have 12 volts on the other end of the resistance wire (which I can see is in place) so the resistance wire is faulty and not providing the correct voltage drop.

However from what I've read the tractor should still run with the 12 volts present it will just burn up the points quicker. So if the points are burned up will it start but not run? 

I'm going to get a ballast resistor from the autoparts store and run a new wire from key to coil through the new resistor. I'll also clean up the points the best I can and try it.

I think I'm also going to order a new key switch, distributor repair kit with new points and rotor, and a new coil (just need to figure out which coil I need)

Any additional thoughts or input is appreciated before I just start throwing parts at it.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Sounds like the resistor(starts on 12 runs on 6 volts) is burnt out, might look ok. That was a common fault with old Chrysler products too.


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## Fordtruckguy5 (Mar 5, 2017)

Ok, update time. I stopped at Napa on the way home and bought a ballast resistor and a 6 volt ignition coil. I disconnected the switch to coil resistor wire and check ohms it read open. I got excited thinking problem solved. Installed new wire and resistor now reading 1.7 ohms end to end. Hooked it up and test, same issue no change. 

Disconnected old coil and checked resistance across the terminals read 1.9 ohms, should be 1.5. Got excited again. New coil reads 1.5 ohms, installed, same issue. 

It seems like something is stuck closed causing the run circuit to constantly pull current. Because if the switch is left in run it makes all wires and the new resistor very hot. I pulled the cover on the distributor to look at the points but I can not get the rotor out to remove the dust cover. It moves back and forth and up and down but will not come out. 

I have a new switch assembly on the way just to rule that out. I'm now thinking distributor issues. Thoughts?


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

I'd be looking at the ignition switch.


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## Fordtruckguy5 (Mar 5, 2017)

Hoodoo Valley said:


> I'd be looking at the ignition switch.


I hooked the run wire with resistor directly to the battery and tried it with same result, so that makes me think the switch is ok. But I have a new one arriving on Saturday just to be sure.


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## mike000198 (Aug 3, 2018)

if you have 12 past the resistor it isn't burnt what you have is no ground. check the ground wire from the coil. I will bet a beer that is your problem......

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


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## mike000198 (Aug 3, 2018)

as long as you have 12 volts to the resistor and a good wire to the coil from the resistor. 

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## Fordtruckguy5 (Mar 5, 2017)

mike000198 said:


> if you have 12 past the resistor it isn't burnt what you have is no ground. check the ground wire from the coil. I will bet a beer that is your problem......
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


Ground wire from the coil to the distributor? Going to try and get the distributor apart this morning.


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## mike000198 (Aug 3, 2018)

ultimately the circuit goes to ground through the points but the fact that it runs in start position leads me to think bad ignition switch but you said earlier that you put 12 volts directly from the battery to the coil and it still doesn't run. head scratcher for sure. electrical theory says anytime you have input voltage past a load in this case the resistor and coil the ground is open ..

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## Fordtruckguy5 (Mar 5, 2017)

I took the distributor apart today, cleaned the points and replaced the ground wire from points to case and from points to coil. Reading from the the negative side of the coil to ground with the points closed I get 0 ohms. 

Put the distributor back together and reset points and now have no spark. It won't even try to start. Going to pick up a condenser at Napa today, are they fairly universal?


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## Hightech1953 (Dec 30, 2018)

Why don't you change it over to electronic ignition and be done with it ?


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## Fordtruckguy5 (Mar 5, 2017)

I found that I had a wire grounded after cleaning and reinstalling the points. Got that fixed and replaced the switch and it finally works. 

I think there was multiple problems involved but now everything is new. Gonna order a distributor rebuild kit and keep it on standby.

Thanks everyone for the help!!!!


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