# International Farmall F2350/Need Help! Hydraulics Problems



## bigskyguy (Dec 25, 2014)

*International Farmall F2350/Need Help! Hydraulics /Electrical/Snowblower Problems*

:usa: Hello All, I am a newbie on the forums and need help fast with a problem. I am winter keeper of a high mountain resort near Yellowstone National Park. My equipment is an International Farmall F2350, Hiniker Cab and rear PTO Snowthrower/Auger. I depend on this old girl to move tons of snow and have managed to maintain her until last night, We got over 2 feet of heavy wet snow. Suddenly the hydraulics started acting up, whining and not operating the drive, bucket or steering. Definete whining from the pump! Can anyone help me figure out where and how to check and add fluid? Also if there is a filter or screen that may be clogged or what may be causing this problem? I can offer more information on year, model even photos ect. if needed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am learning something new everyday about this tractor, but a very long way to go. Thanks Guys. edro:


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

That tractor looks like my Farmall 766 in your pics. If that is the case, then the fill/check point for the hydraulic fluid is on the operator's platform just aft of the steering column, sort of near the brake pedals. Its a dipstick that pulls out of the top of the transmission housing through the floor of the cab/operators station. If you have a rubber floor mat in your cab, there should be a small flap that you can lift or remove to access it. You'll want to use the HyTrain fluid from CaseIH if possible, or a fluid that meets their specs if you can't find the OEM stuff. As for the fluid filter, its located on the right side of the transmission housing near the bottom just ahead of the rear axle. Its a dome that is held on by two bolts. You will need to put a pail under the cover, remove the cover, and then pull the filter. There's a metal screen in there as well that should be cleaned in solvent. Check for any metal shavings in the cavity where the filter goes. A few are normal, a large amount is not. If topping off the fluid and replacing the filter doesn't help, then it could be that the pump failed or that there is a seal or o-ring failed somewhere in the master control valve assembly.


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## bigskyguy (Dec 25, 2014)

*Re: Help On Hyrdraulics*

Thanks so much for taking time out of your Christmas to help me out with your reply and "steering" me in the right direction. I found the Dipstick/Filler Hole next to the brake pedal. When cold it showed add 1 gallon. I added what little fluid we had (about 3 quarts) and warmed it up for awhile. Tried operating the bucket, lift, blower, PTO to full travel, very slow but finaly managed to get them to full travel and back down. Also tried moving the steering wheel, that was a no go. Everything still barely moved and the pump whining all the while. The streering wheel was very jerky and unmovable at best. I checked the dipstick again and showed nothing on the stick. I know we won't have the factory fluid at NAPA in town, what fluid should I buy and try? Do you know the capacity of the reservoir? Also I checked the oil level under the seat, 2 cap bolts under the metal cover by the operating levers...these seemed full. The two levers on the right side of the driver's seat are mysterious. The Left one seems to do nothing. The right one howerver, seems to have something jammed underneath to hold it back, in order for the sytem to work at all. This old girl needs some serious attention. If only I can get the hydraulics operating and make it through the winter, next summer she will get all of the love she deserves, but in this bitter cold at or below zero, it is simple survival mode right now. Any more help on fluid type and capacity would be of great help. Also the function of the 2 levers on the right side of the driver's seat? The numbers on the engine block tag reads F 1066 2610159U01489* Any ideas on year and exact year or model?


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

From the numbers you gave, it appears you have a Farmall 1066. I also have one of those. It's the same setup as the 766. The reservoir is about 20-30 gallons total capacity. It's the hydraulic and transmission fluid and fills the transmission and rear end. You can ask at NAPA to see if they have a fluid that meets the International Harvester standard for their HyTran fluid. There should be a compatible aftermarket fluid that will work. If the fluid Is that low, it could be sucking air at the pump. My 1066 likes to lose prime to the pump when it sits for a long time. Try refilling the reservoir and letting it idle for 15-20 minutes. That should warm the oil up and hopefully prime the pump.


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## bigskyguy (Dec 25, 2014)

*RE:Hydraulic Trouble Farmall F1066/ Final Try*

:usa:Thanks Fellas,
Your info was a great help and a start to hopefully getting this F1066 up and running smooth. I added 5 gallons of NAPA HY -Tran compatible fluid & let her warm up and operated the lifts, bucket....just barely though, still slow and the steering wheel won't turn. The PTO seems to get revved up ok. But no movement when put in gear forward or reverse. The level on the filler hole dipstick shows plenty on the stick, but still indicates "add one gallon" after this 1st 5 gallon fill and warm up try out. I am expecting the canister type hydro oil filter #1253 with O rings tomorrow and I will change the filter, clean the screen, then try adding another full 5 gallons of Hy-Tran equivalent. I read somewhere... over filling by 3-4 gallons will cover a bad O-ring seal in the pump pick up tube, possibly avoiding a very costly pump replacement. Looks like it is do or die now, as we are expecting -20 degrees below zero soon and more snow. The filter replacement and extra fluid better do the trick or I know a guy that owns this place that is gonna be furious and I will be trapped out here. I will let you guys know what happens after all of this work, research. money and a final try ends up with. Thanks again for the help on this problem.edro:


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## bigskyguy (Dec 25, 2014)

*Country Boy Knows His Stuff!!*



Country Boy said:


> That tractor looks like my Farmall 766 in your pics. If that is the case, then the fill/check point for the hydraulic fluid is on the operator's platform just aft of the steering column, sort of near the brake pedals. Its a dipstick that pulls out of the top of the transmission housing through the floor of the cab/operators station. If you have a rubber floor mat in your cab, there should be a small flap that you can lift or remove to access it. You'll want to use the HyTrain fluid from CaseIH if possible, or a fluid that meets their specs if you can't find the OEM stuff. As for the fluid filter, its located on the right side of the transmission housing near the bottom just ahead of the rear axle. Its a dome that is held on by two bolts. You will need to put a pail under the cover, remove the cover, and then pull the filter. There's a metal screen in there as well that should be cleaned in solvent. Check for any metal shavings in the cavity where the filter goes. A few are normal, a large amount is not. If topping off the fluid and replacing the filter doesn't help, then it could be that the pump failed or that there is a seal or o-ring failed somewhere in the master control valve assembly.


 :usa: Country Boy saves us from the 'Christmas Crisis" in Montana arty:
Bad storm coming with many feet of unplowed snow and way behind on plowing due to Hydraulic problems and screaming pump on IH Farmall/Farmhand F-2350 (F1066). Guess who to the rescue??? Dairy farmer from Wisconsin and "IH Guru" Country Boy! Yes he spelled it right out for us. Took precious time out from his Christmas to help a neighbor, a damn long ways away and saved the day. Ordered the NAPA #1253 Filter Element w/Retainer Seal & O-Ring via overnight shipping. Grabbed 2 5's of NAPA HyTrain fluid. 
Sure enough the filter was right where he said it was. Put a pail under it. Removed the wing nuts & cover, out popped the filter element with retainer+seal, cartrige, relief valve/screen and o-ring. Caught a gallon of silvery-black sludge. Thankfully no white goop or foam from water. The super-fine mesh screen was coated with a thin layer of crud, rag lint, seal particles and fine metal dust. The cartridge was clogged with trappings of the same sort. Cleaned her cavity, screen and relief valve with mineral spirits and blasted her with compressed air.
Replaced the retainer seal, retainer, new cartridge, relief valve/screen, o-ring and cover. Added 10 gallons of HyTran into her filler hole, she was all lubed & warmed up. She even stopped screaming when I played with her controls! :loveit: Her pump was all primed and away we went! We are so happy...we danced all the way into the forest and snowy darkness! :bouncy: Hats off to Country Boy And Everyone On The Forum For Your Help! tiphat


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Hey Rich,....I think you got another follower ! LOL!
Rich is a good man,and a good friend,and yes,he goes out of his way to help.

Kudos,Country Boy !!


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## farmertim (Dec 1, 2010)

Hey Rich, well done mate, just reading these replies of the guys help me increase my hydro knowledge, one subject I am deficient on. So you don't just help out bigskyguy, you have also given me some pointers for what to look for in case I hit the same snag!
All the best .


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Sweet!  Glad to hear you got it going, and I'm happy to help whenever I can. Unfortunately, most of my knowledge came by learning the hard way when stuff broke down over the years. I'm happy that it can help someone out! :cheers:


Oh, I realize I forgot to answer one of your questions regarding the two levers to the right of the seat. Those are the hydraulic control levers for the rear remote outlets. From your pics, your loader is connected to one of the rear outlets, so that's probably why they locked one of the levers up. Its locked on to provide constant flow to your loader controls. When the controls are in the neutral position (ie not being operated) then the fluid flows from the rear remote to the valve, through the valve and back to the other remote to return to the reservoir.

It should have dawned on me sooner that the filter is most likely the cause. The 66 series tractors had two hydraulic pumps, one for the transmission, brakes, steering, and 3pt hitch, and the other for the rear remotes. Seeing as nothing worked, then the filter or low fluid level would be about the only thing to affect both pumps. Seems I'm getting rusty in my old age! :lmao:


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## bigskyguy (Dec 25, 2014)

*IH Farmall/Farmhand 1066 Hydraulic Problems/Sudden Death Electrical/Chain Breakage*

Hey There Rich, Sorry for the long delay in replying to your last post regarding the Hydraulic Controls for the rear remotes. Thanks for the quick lesson on those levers. It is amazing what one can learn from experienced owners like yourself, on these electronic forums. What would we do without them and folks like you? Think about it...turn the crank on the old wall phone and ask the operator for...what? :call:
With that said I just wanted to update the forum on what has transpired and the progress on getting my old gal to keep humping along in this Siberian Wilderness. Since the last "episode" we had changed the Hydro Fluid Element and added fluid. Well..as things go with these older girls, something is always up their sleeve. I have been struggling with her electrical issues all along the trail. It was clear that after replacing the sealed beam headlamps and running new wiring from the lamps to the interior of the cab, as well as getting the heater and defroster fans to run along with the dome light was putting extra load on her. When plowing with only headlamps on, she would sometimes die...there was little hope of a re-start without carrying a jumpbox in the cab. Plowing snow at night up this high is more often than not the scenario. These Rocky Mountain pacific storms roll in without warning and dump 24 inches of various textures of snow, from wet concrete to fluffy powder in a matter of hours. One must make  strong enough to float a framing hammer and get her revved up for the dirty deed, despite the hour. Unimaginable temps up here can reach minus -37* below zero, and did as I watched the thermometer crack on New Years Eve. I keep her block heater plugged in 24/7 with a can of starting fluid at the ready. I am almost getting to the point that I enjoy the smell of diesel, ether and coffee in the dark of the night. :smoking: The reality of replacing the twin 3 cell 6V batteries and the alternator was more than likely. I ordered two 3EH Batteries and a Delco Remy DRE 10SI 63Amp 6V one wire alternator from NAPA. This style of alternator is designed to "excite " at 850 RPMs. The pulley on the new unit didn't match, but after some heat from a torch, I got the old pulley off and swapped the bushings, fan and pulley. Then began the struggle of removing and replacing the twin batteries...that was like doing a C Section Delivery in below zero temps, but putting the baby back in. outta here Patched up a few wires that were rubbed through and capped off the two #12 wires that connect to the alternator spades on the side, directly from the battery as these are no longer needed and bolted on the new alternator. Finally... we can now plow at night with lights, fan and heater without total fear of a failure to re-start...however...I still get a measurable "pucker factor" when she does die sticking between gears. Then just as things seemed to be all patched up between us and moving along smoothly...Bang! It sounded like one of my home made M-80s. The #60 Heavy Duty Chain on the Red Devil blower snapped. I happened to have a few extra master links and a cheap Harbor Freight chain breaker on hand. I ground down part of a rivet on the chain and broke 2 pins on the tool before getting the frozen snake repaired, back on the gears, fastened and adjusted. It is holding up for now, but with 3 master links how long can she hold? We are getting hammered once again with several feet of drifting and blowing snow as I type. A new 10' chain, master links and breaking tool are on the way from NAPA. So the saga continues...a "uneasy truce" :duel: exists between her and I during this long and cold Yellowstone winter. Stay tuned for the next episode of "The Battle For Life".


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I hope the owner gives you a bonus,for all your hard work!
Stay warm,and stay safe,my friend !


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Sounds like a day here on the farm. Seems like something is breaking almost every day. I guess that's what happens when you have older equipment! 

One thing I would recommend for those cold temps you have there is to run a diesel fuel additive to prevent fuel gelling. There are many different brands out there, and NAPA should carry it. Diesel fuel has two different blends, summer and winter. The winter blend is thinner and less likely to gel up in cold weather, but I still like to run the additive in there. If the fuel system gels up on you, it can take a long time to get it all cleaned out and running. Keeping the tractor plugged in does help as it keeps the engine block warm. You may already use the additive, but if not, I'd pick some up and add it whenever you fill up.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Been there,and done that,Rich.
Had to work on an M60 Patton tank,that had the fuel gelled, back in '76 . 12 cylinders of pure hell !
The tank heater switches failed,and I spent 4 days & nights,working under a large canvas,with railroad smudge-pots,just to get it going enough to get back to the base !


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## bigskyguy (Dec 25, 2014)

*From Better To Good To Suddenly Bad To Worse/ HELP*

Well....sigh.... Just when things are seeming to go smoothly they can take a nasty turn for the worse. Started her up this moring and everything sounded so good. I mean she started right up and was silky smooth. Then...about 10 minutes into taking on the 20"snow bashing from the weekend..it happened. A sudden and loud screaming and loss of all hydraulics and control. But this time...the screaming was accompanied by a loud, distinct and constant grinding sound. We were DONE.  I just could not believe this was happening after all of our trouble shooting, parts and effort over the last week. You guys really helped me out and got us back on track, but now this one I am adfraid, is real and nasty. I can only guess and asume that the hydraulic pump exploded, or possibly some drive component that powers the pump sheared or broke, maybe a gear?. Cavitation over time may have done her in, after suddenly recieving the proper fluid flows and pressures. So...I would be greatly appreciative of any thoughts or ideas on what the major malfunction is this time. No hydraulics, no steering, no movement in gear. Just a loud screaming/grinding sound from deep inside near the clutch and filter area as best as I can tell. Not sure what the next move should be. I have another 5 of Hytran fluid and considered adding some, in hopes of some miracle.. even though she says full but I have serious doubts. I don't no exactly where the pump is, internal or accessable from the outside? I think I found a few images of the pump and gear. If this is repairable, it will have to be done here on the ranch, by me. If this does sound like a shot pump, it appears as though it may be user replacable. How bad is the procedure? Any special tools? Cost I asume is in the $500.00 range on parts. Needless to say when I called the owner and told him...it was not a pretty thing to hear. Feel free to chime anytime with your deepest thoughts on this latest episode. Tomorrow I will try locate the pump, remove it with a bucket underneath and see what is going on in there. :night: Post Script: The 1st image below is not relevent to the Hydraulic Systems Pump on the 1066 Series.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Hmm. On this tractor, there are two inputs to the transmission area. One is a solid shaft that splines into the clutch plate, and the other is a hollow tube that fits around the solid shaft and splines into the pressure plate. The hollow tube spins all the time when the engine is running and the solid shaft starts and stops with the clutch. The hollow tube runs your hydraulic pumps and the PTO assembly and the solid shaft runs the transmission for wheel drive.

When you said you lost all hydraulics and control, is it just the hydraulics that are affected, or will the tractor not move either. Can you drive it, or does releasing the clutch not do anything? Does the PTO still engage? The PTO clutch is a hydraulic clutch, but its run off the secondary pump IIRC and not the main pump that runs the hydraulics for the loader. If all hydraulics failed, then either both pumps failed or that input shaft may have stripped at the pressure plate. My 574 nearly stripped its hollow input shaft off, but I caught it when I rebuilt the tractor and split it to remove the engine. There was maybe 3/32" of material left on the splines that were originally 1/4" wide. If the shaft stripped, the only way to replace it is to split the tractor. That's probably something beyond what you can do by yourself because you need splitting stands and whatnot to hold the front and rear halves of the tractor up. The pump you could probably do yourself, though, or at least remove it and have someone look at it for you if needed.

Its very well possible that the pump failed due to the cavitation over time. Its pretty easy to pull the pump plate, but you might have to drain all the fluid from the rear end first. I did when I replaced the pump on my 574, but that's a different series of tractor. Remember that the rear end holds up to 30 gallons of fluid, so have a ton of pails ready to catch it all.

Before I drained the fluid and tore the pump out, I'd check to see if there's an access plate under the tractor at the bell housing. If so, remove it so you can access the clutch area and see if that outer hollow shaft is turning when the engine is turning. If not, then its stripped. If it turns fine, then you'll have to dig deeper.

The reason I mentioned that shaft is because you mentioned that there was a growling noise from the clutch area. If the splined shaft stripped off it would make a grinding noise in that area.

Hopefully this helps you. If you need clarification on anything, feel free to ask (I tend to ramble, sorry!). Hopefully you get the tractor back up and running soon!


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## bigskyguy (Dec 25, 2014)

*RE: Bad to Good To Worse*

Hey There Rich, Thanks for the fast reply and detailed information on this hydraulics system failure. Your diagnosis of possible causes for failure sound quite possible and plausible. I have been instructed to drain the hydraulic fluid by removing 2 of the 3 hex plugs on the bottom of the casing, as the center one is inaccessible. Catch it in clean buckets and cap them with lids, as we may re use it after adding the 10 new gallons at the filter change. The fluid is clear on the stick, but I will let the owner make the final decision on that. I also have been instructed to remove the bolts and pump for inspection and looking closely at the gear and nut. Any tips on pump removal, inspection, replacement and also the correct way to test the pump to be certain if it is working properly in the case there is no visible damage? I have to be honest...this is the 1st time I hope you are wrong, but with your record I have my doubts. In any case I will let you all know what we find in there. Thanks again for your time and help on trouble shooting this problem.
J.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

To be honest, I've never had to replace the pumps on my 766 or 1066. I did on the 574 because the system pressure had gotten so low that the loader would barely lift and the rear remote outlets couldn't lift my implements anymore. I spoke with the guy that does some of our tractor repairs (he's got the hoists and whatnot to work with the big tractors) and he said that the pump was probably shot after almost 40 years. We swapped in a new pump and the problem resolved itself. From what I remember from the tech school I attended, you can do a pressure and flow test at the rear remotes to determine the pump's output with a test rig set up for that. Seeing as your hydraulics don't work, that's impossible. What you can do is pull the pump and spin it over (the pump that is), making sure the shaft and gear turn together. You could pull the gear and disassemble the pump, but you may need special tools for that.

If you have the pump out, you could have someone spin the tractor over (DON'T START IT!) with the throttle lever in the shut off position and see if the gear that drives the pump is spinning. If not, then I'd suspect the input tube is stripped off in the bell housing. Make sure you have the tractor locked in park and that the throttle lever stays in the shut off position so that the engine doesn't start. One, there is no lube in the transmission so it may damage the bearings, and two, what little lube is in there may get sprayed back in your face. Unless you want expensive repairs or a new nickname (Freckles!), don't do that! :lmao:

If you feel you are in over your head, see if there are any mechanics in the area that do "house calls". We have several independent mechanics in the area that can come out to your farm and work on your equipment if necessary. They might be able to diagnose the problem for you and give you a repair estimate. I don't think they would want to work on it in -25°F weather outside, though...


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## bigskyguy (Dec 25, 2014)

*A Long Cold Day/ What I Learned/ HLS Pump Removal*

Hello There Fellas, The day began early by shoveling 14" of wet snow from underneath the old gal, as she died on me during the last winter storm warning right in the middle of the road. I laid down an old furniture pad under her and got the 5 gallon buckets ready. The 1st step was to pick one of 3 square head plugs, center plug was under a bar and no access, so I mounted up a 1/2" to 3/8" square drive on a 1/2" breaker bar, dug the crud out of the plug holes and picked the left one. Immediately twisted the adaptor right off. Time to get out the big guns! Mapp Gas torch and impact grade 1/2 to 3/8" square drive, hammer and can of the best penetrating lube, Deep Creep...grabbed a cheater pipe also. Began putting the heat to her and enjoyed watching the lube flame up and the bit of warmth from the torch. Got her red hot, struck her button again and again, more heat...more lube. No go. Next plug....same treatment and.. it budged! So I had one plug moving. Got the buckets with large funnel under her hole and let her flow. Filled one 5 at a time replugging after each 5 was full. Ended up with 13 gallons and the flow stopped. I Knew there was more to come. Cracked the bolts on the HLP Flange easily. Turns out the center bolt on the Mounting Flange was a drain plug, more nice flow from that one. Also loosened the 13 shorter flange bolts, as well as the 2 longer bolts. Got some nice flow from the longer bolt holes after removing those 1st, then replacing them as I suspected those bolts held the pump to the flange. Soon the flow stopped and I had about 18 gallons of fairly nice fluid with no metal peices to be seen, only a few small ice chunks. Next...get the HLP flange to move. A bit of heat...a few sharp taps with a rubber mallet...a few more harder whacks and it broke free, more fluid gushed into the metal pan under the pump. Finally all flow stopped and the time was at hand to remove the guts. The flange and pump came out as a unit without any struggle. The suction tube stayed in the differental compartment, I removed it and layed everything aside, bolts in solvent. I was hoping to find the pump gear laying in the bottom of the compartment in pieces...or the gear nut off. .... ... .. . Sad to say the pump and gear was in pristine condtion as well as the drive and other gears and components in the compartment... all spotless. The O-ring on the pump for the suction tube was compressed but not cracked. No flow tester so the pump may or may no be functioning to specs...but it sure felt silky smooth with resistance. Next.. turn the page back to my "go to guy" Country Boy Rich. Had my helper look into the compartment as I cranked her over with ignition off. Gears turned a little, held a wooden dowel against the pump drive gear, cranked it again...no movement. So Rich was spot on again. Case cracking time and BIG money. Easy as pie to remove and replace the Thompson HL pump. So...we called the Tractor Doctor in Idaho Falls...they are coming to get her on a lowboy and crack that case, go through her complete R$R overhaul, Quadrant, Shafts, Valves, Clutch, PTO and get this bitch back to feeling good again. Good as new...well almost. Her engine purrs like a kitten and the electrical is great. If we had a warm barn...we would crack that case and fix her ourselvs. 
I think...if I was born in a different time, say 1930...being German blooded .... before my early ancestors immagrated to USA, I may have ended up in a King Tiger Tank Division in 44-45....yea...a gunner in a 5 man crew keeping that monster on the prowl. We as Germans like things to be nice and tight, close tolerances and to operate a perfectly well oiled precision manufactured machine. 
I will let you all know how it turns out and the final bill $$$$$. Thanks again to Rich and all of the help from the folks on this forum. Oh..by the way..I am obtaining an original IH-37 Shop Service Manual that supercedes the IH-35 manual covering IH Series *766 *826 *966 *1026 and *1066. If anyone needs a lookup on something, let me know maybe I can partially return the favor. 
armytank


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Sometimes I hate it when I'm right. frown

Well, if its any consolation, I did buy my 1066 Black Stripe (the last year they built them and had a special paint job) for $11,000 with a 5 bottom moldboard plow, then proceeded to stick another $22,000 into her to rebuild the engine, replace the Torque Amplifier, rebuild the differential lock system, and new tires all the way around. There are a few minor issues that need looking into, but she's a solid workhorse that out pulls the new tractors I've rented. There's just something about the old iron and solid gears that seems to work better than the new CVT and Powershift transmissions. My old girl will pull 5- 16" moldboards 8" deep through blue clay all day long. She'll pull a wheelie with 1,200lbs of weights on the front and bark like crazy, but she just keeps on going. Since the rebuild its putting out over 150hp with a new stock pump, new injectors, new pistons and liners, and a completely rebuilt head. She went from 125hp to 155hp on the dyno when they tested her after the rebuild. I love listening to that engine purr at idle and the whine of the turbo as she spools up. I could listen to that old girl all day long.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

SEE???? THIS is why I gave up working on tanks,in the military,and went Spec-ops !!!
NOTHING on big equipment, EVER breaks when it's nice out,or you have a shop!!!:dazed::dazed:


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