# Replaced clutch still cant disengage



## chadblaire

Ok, my clutch was at the end of the pedal play so I figured clutch plate was worn or pressure plate fingers were worn. (I did use the tractor by dropping the clutch a bunch of times on the last job). So I split the 8n and replaced 2 bearings, pressure plate and clutch plate with new clutch parts from StevensLakeParts on ebay. When I looked at their pressure plate, it seemed the fingers were actually lower than my current one (which had worn fingers). Anyway, after replacing it all, the clutch pedal still cannot disengage the clutch at any setting on the adjustment at the pedal. Can it be the driveshaft has pushed backwards away from engine? Or clutch pedal shaft bend so that it can't reach the pressure plate? I presume the pressure plate cannot be adjusted (bolts on each finger). Any ideas? Pic included showing distance from throwout bearing to pressure plate.


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## BigT

Welcome to the tractor forum chadblaire,

I found the following comment on the internet that may be pertinent top your situation: 

"Newer replacement clutch disks are thicker than the original was. You need to re-adjust the clutch fingers, OR add a shim between the flywheel and the pressure plate.
You can just add a thick washer on each of the 6 bolts between the pressure plate and the flywheel."
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Your questions "Can it be the driveshaft has pushed backwards away from engine? " NO. "Or clutch pedal shaft bend so that it can't reach the pressure plate?" Not likely. "I presume the pressure plate cannot be adjusted (bolts on each finger)" They should be adjustable, but you have to get each bolt at exactly the same height.
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I think you can shorten the clutch rod and make the throwout bearing make contact with the finger bolts to disengage the clutch. Please study this and confirm in your own mind that this is a move in the right direction.

What I would do is get a thread cutting die with same threads as on the clutch rod, and cut additional threads on the rod. Then cut off a section of the rod to allow more clevis adjustment (try cutting off 1/2"). Then adjust the clevis and see if this is a move in the right direction. You need free play of about 1" to 1-1/2" in you clutch pedal.

Let us know how this goes.

PS: I just looked at my clutch rod and it has plenty of threads beyond the clevis, but the rod end eliminates further clevis adjustment. So if yours is like that, you don't have to cut additional threads, all you have to do is cut off a bit of the rod. I would start by cutting off 1/2" and see if it is a move in the right direction.


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## chadblaire

When I say I was out of threads, I meant it was all the way screwed in, not screwed out... I guess when I was popping the clutch (to dump the dirt in the scoop), I stressed the clutch linkage. After splitting the tractor, replacing the clutch, I found this...

:argh:

Thanks for your thoughts, tho.


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## dirtymike

Yep, been there. I welded gussets front and rear. that's why you are out of adjustment travel. good find. Sure wish that was my problem. I think the new clutches have a thick and a thin side from what I've been reading. Cant remember which side goes to the flywheel. Dirty


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## chadblaire

I think the center hub has a larger and smaller side. The clutch has to hit the flywheel, so the smaller hub thickness goes against flywheel. If you test the thicker side, the clutch just cant touch the flywheel...


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