# Craftsman won't start



## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

Forgive me, I’m not very knowledgeable about engines. We can follow directions but don’t have much background in diagnostics.

First, introduction to the machine in question:
It was a free mower, the guy we got it from got it for free, and I think that guy got it for free too. So it's seen a lot of repairs as it changed hands. Never in quite good enough condition to sell when moving... We had it running with the help of the previous owner for a couple years, and then it wouldn't start any more.

Exterior labels:
Craftsman 15.5HPOHV (I believe however the motor is not original)
Briggs & Stratton Turbo Cool
42” 6 speed











Plate:
Craftsman
model 917.258522
SN 041997B003574










Motor markings:
14.5 OHV
I/C Quiet
Briggs & Stratton
Model 287707
Type 0224-01
Code 57041470











Recent work:
Two non professionals claimed carburetor issues. I ordered a replacement seals kit of which the first person used half of, and the second person used all of.

First person also recommend we replace the fuel line and filter, which we did.

The second person claimed he had the motor running when I wasn't looking, by shorting the solenoid, and said the ignition switch was bad.

We replaced the switch, did some testing, decided to replace the solenoid too.

We now get a weak starter motor attempt and then clicking. So we took off the motor cover. If we manually disengage the starter gear, and try again, the starter pops up, moves the motor a few inches, then stops and you only hear the solenoid clicking. 





















The motor spins with difficulty. Air alternatively gets sucked in and blows out the air intake.

We disengaged the mower deck pulley, the wheel drive pulley seems slack. Still hard to turn.

So we removed the muffler, thinking there might be blockage on the exhaust. A little bit of air comes out the exhaust, and air still comes out the intake.

There are broken teeth on the gear between the starter and the motor on the motor side. I'm not sure if this is a result of the motor being hard to turn, or of it is supposed to be hard to turn and is disengaging the start motor because it is not turning because the teeth are broken...



















What's my next move? 

We're not dependant on this machine at all, we actually normally mow with the BCS flail mower. We often let parts of our property go too far for a finish mower to handle it. It is nice though to have this to tow a little cargo wagon around and bring things up and down the hill. We've been discussing possibly getting a bigger tractor for that sort of thing, and giving this one away, so I'd be hesitant to buy a whole new engine, but minor parts and time learning how to do this stuff is good learning experience, helping me decide if I can take on a bigger machine that might need work.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

These are the carburetor parts my friend had us get that went in to the carb...
Product: 494381 -FLOAT-CARBURETOR
Product: 497535 -KIT-CARB OVERHAUL


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

have you checked the valve clearances at all, these are .003/.005 for inlet and .005/.007 for exhaust.
if you get a balk when you use the starter and the engine wont rotate easy, the valve clearances may need adjusting or the valve lifter may be faulty, check the clearances first.
If you don't have the manual for the engine, just Google specs for the engine model number and most times this will show.

Do you use a good battery?.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/
you could try this, covers a few model engines, may come in handy for you.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

FredM said:


> have you checked the valve clearances at all, these are .003/.005 for inlet and .005/.007 for exhaust.
> if you get a balk when you use the starter and the engine wont rotate easy, the valve clearances may need adjusting or the valve lifter may be faulty, check the clearances first.
> If you don't have the manual for the engine, just Google specs for the engine model number and most times this will show.
> 
> Do you use a good battery?.


Battery has a good charge on it, I can check the date, but pretty sure the machine has not run much since the battery was replaced. One of the things we fixed in the last round stopped the slow electrical leak, so the charge held over the break. Being under the seat with the safety switch, we'd need to short out the safety switch to test the battery under load.

Trying to find my manual, but pretty sure it's just the user manual, not a repair manual...

So, forgive my ignorance, for valve clearances I need to open up the engine itself? What gaskets should I preorder so I'll have them when they inevitably will need replacing as I am already in there?


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

I think this is the machine I ordered a manual for and it came in Spanish...


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

Official parts website: "We're currently undergoing an upgrade of core backend systems, which leaves us unable to process parts orders during the next several weeks. " They refer you to a trusted partner, but the trusted partner doesn't let you search by engine model number, and doesn't seem to carry manuals...


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

found a parts diagram:
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/j...399999-series/287700-to-287799/287707-0224-01


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

So the broken teeth are part of the flywheel, which is a fairly pricey component. Can I get away with broken teeth on that wheel, or is that going to need to be replaced?

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/part/briggs-stratton/693557


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

Operator Manual and Parts Manual: https://www.briggsandstratton.com/n...ualSearch.html?searchrequested=287707-0224-01


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Broken teeth on the flywheel and/or the starter! It takes a lot to break off teeth. I figure your engine problems are just starting.........does the rest of the machine seem good enough? For a replacement engine? Price them, then decide. If you aren't handy with maintaining and repairing something like this it's either a chance to learn (to fix them yourself) or (not).
Ride on mowers and lawn and garden tractors aren't very important where I live but snowblowers and walk behind mowers are. Craftman brand are rated as POS! My advise: get something new made by MTD. They are cheap, simple and last quite awhile....


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

as a temporary fix I would file the damaged teeth, don't grind otherwise you will be in a spot of bother, and secondly I would see if the ring gear is riveted to the flywheel or by what means this is held there, if you could shift this about 90°, this would give you good teeth for the starter to engage, this depends on how the ring gear is attached.

don't short the battery, do you mean "bridge".

your engine is a OHV engine so all you would need to do is take the tappet cover off to get at the valves, this is at the top end of the engine and you would only need the cover gasket, you will need the manual to set the tappets because the tappets are not set with the engine at top dead center because of the automatic valve lifter.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

deerhide said:


> it's either a chance to learn (to fix them yourself) or (not)


Definitely a chance to learn. Sure, I could swing an entire replacement motor if I valued this machine and my time, but I already know I can undo bolts and follow instructions. Diagnostics I don't know, and if I do as some have encouraged me and get a fixer-upper real tractor, the large bolt in parts are going to get more expensive and harder to find, and diagnostic skills will be essential. Besides, for 2-3x the price of a new motor, I can probably get a whole new mower. I'd rather spend $500 in parts and save myself thousands of dollars in the future with my new knowledge than spend $500 in new motor and have a working machine that doesn't do everything I need a tractor to do.



FredM said:


> as a temporary fix I would file the damaged teeth


You mean take off any burrs, or should I be beveling some of the broken edges?


FredM said:


> would see if the ring gear is riveted to the flywheel or by what means this is held there, if you could shift this about 90°, this would give you good teeth for the starter to engage,


I'm not convinced of that, there's teeth randomly broken all the way around. I did find the part that was the ring gear alone for less than the ring gear with flywheel attached. Waiting on hubby to finalize parts list. (Joint project, two of us are smarter than either of us.)


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

may be i missed it but did you say you had a good charge on the battery and at one time the starter did crank faster then it does now?

If it did then i would suggest to start from the beginning.

Spark and fuel, an easy way to check both is to remove air filter or the spark plug and give it a shot of gas directly into the carb or the cylinder via spark plug chamber, replace spark plug(if removed) you can keep air filter off for testing then crank it. 

It my take a few tries but if spark is good, but the carb cant get fuel on its own, it will start and run for a few seconds like this. 

Make sure you are sitting in the seat, the break is set, the blades are NOT engaged, and it is in neutral. Most lawn tractors have safety switches like these.

First charge the battery.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

DLSkidmore said:


> Definitely a chance to learn. Sure, I could swing an entire replacement motor if I valued this machine and my time, but I already know I can undo bolts and follow instructions. Diagnostics I don't know, and if I do as some have encouraged me and get a fixer-upper real tractor, the large bolt in parts are going to get more expensive and harder to find, and diagnostic skills will be essential. Besides, for 2-3x the price of a new motor, I can probably get a whole new mower. I'd rather spend $500 in parts and save myself thousands of dollars in the future with my new knowledge than spend $500 in new motor and have a working machine that doesn't do everything I need a tractor to do.
> 
> 
> You mean take off any burrs, or should I be beveling some of the broken edges?
> I'm not convinced of that, there's teeth randomly broken all the way around. I did find the part that was the ring gear alone for less than the ring gear with flywheel attached. Waiting on hubby to finalize parts list. (Joint project, two of us are smarter than either of us.)


ive seen teeth worse then that start machines for years.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

DLSkidmore said:


> shorting the solenoid





FredM said:


> don't short the battery, do you mean "bridge".


Definitely said solenoid, not battery. As in connected the battery power to the starter motor wire with a screwdriver laid across those contacts on the solenoid. Not my cup of tea, but it was Jim's cup of tea... Jim isn't on the project any more.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

So the new plan is to drain the oil and tear the engine apart tomorrow, learn something, make sure we won't need more parts, then if it still looks worth fixing, order the service manual, engine gasket set, and the missing screws/spacers for the fan screen.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

oldmanfarmer said:


> at one time the starter did crank faster then it does now?


It's not a matter of speed, it's a matter of stopping dead moments after the gear engages with the engine. We don't get more than 1/4 turn on the engine.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

...and it having run any time in the last 2 years is on the word of a very short term employee who left a bit of a mess behind him when he left. (I'd still have him back to throw heavy stuff around, but not anything else.)


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I am not sure with your engine, previous posts you say there is puffs of air coming out of the inlet and when you removed the muffler, there is a small puff coming from there, can you rotate the engine by hand, like two hands on the flywheel and turning?, if you can do a full rotation by this way and when you get to top dead center, (compression) is it then hard to keep rotating the engine until you get past the compression stage?, if this is the case then check the valve clearances because the valve lifter is not doing its job because the gaps are too wide for the lifter to unseat the valve.

OK, I can't see around corners so I assumed that the damaged teeth were only in the photograph, you can still file the hangy bits if you want.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

FredM said:


> can you rotate the engine by hand, like two hands on the flywheel and turning?


That is pretty much the only way the engine is moving more than a quarter turn.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Before you tear the engine apart. Remove valve cover and check adjustment of the valves. You may not even have to change the gasket because it may be a neoprene gasket and it will seal right up. First, on opening look closely to see if a push rod has not fallen out of place. This happens sometimes if the setting is too loose. Then find the procedures for setting the valves. Each adjustment is made independently by rotating engine by hand. You should find the instructions online and follow them to the T.
These engines are known for hard starting and lockup if the valves are out of adjustment. If a pushrod has jumped out, check to see if it is bent. Easy to replace.
FIRST--Always disconnect spark plug wire before doing this job. When you turn by hand the engine could start.
This may have been your problem all along. Many who are not experienced will always tear into the carburetor first `


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

Ok, found directions, watched a couple youtube videos, but if that seal isn't neoprene, and we'll need to order some seals anyway, we'll probably just go for the full kit and break the engine down further just for the learning experience.

https://www.wincogen.com/wp-content/uploads/PD/Engines/valve_adjustment.pdf


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

STOP! ! !
Don't do this. If u want experience go to a small engine shop and ask for a junk engine to tear upart.
There are many special tools and much experience to open one up and get it back together correctly.
Check your valve adjustment First. Again check valve adjustment First. Might save u some money and a good engine. I'm not saying you can't do it but a person should learn a complete disassembly and reassembly with an experienced mechanic. Practice on a junker.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

This is a junk engine to us, it has been sitting non-functional in the garage for 2 years. We got it for free. We let newbie machanic friends pay with it, and now it is our turn. Even if we got it functional again, it meets very few of our place's needs.

Although you may be glad to hear we only went as far as gapping the valves and solenoid today, spent the rest of the garage time on more ordinary maintenance of the BCS that is the real workhorse around here.

The seal is torn, last person to put it back together used some pink paste to supplement the seal. Will order at least that seal, the shop manual, and some random missing screws before coming back to this project.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

Vendor doesn't have the seal in stock, going back to manufacturer, they say they'll have it at the end of the week, but the manufacturer's direct parts section is down due to computer upgrades, so I don't have confidence that the vendor can get parts on their regular schedule... (Maybe they prioritized B2B over customer site and vendor can get it before I can, maybe not.)

Slightly tempted by gasket-in-a-tube. If I don't have that seal in the mail by 4th of July, I'm tempted to go that route. This is the right stuff? https://www.autozone.com/sealants-g...j-b-weld-3-oz-red-hi-temp-silicone/698490_0_0 I'm concerned that it's a small mating surface to get the bead on, don't want to overdo it and have leak-out in the compartment.


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## Arkie (Aug 6, 2014)

couple hints:
Appears you might have to junk the engine, but if you want to give it the old college try and a learning process. Appears you are going in behind where some Bubba's have left lots of afterbirth which makes the process little more challenging,

You can also download a FREE SErvice manual for Briggs OHV single cylinder engines as a reference.

Remove the spark plug and the engine should turn over fairly easy by hand. If it don't you may have severe rust in the cylinder.
The teeth missing off the flywheel ring is most likely due to someone putting a steel Bendix gear on the starter. The fiber Bendix gear is used to prevent such, the fiber gear teeth break instead of the ring gear teeth.

Probably will eventually need another flywheel.
When you get a crank and you hear air coming out the carb or exhaust is an indicator of an open valve.

You can jump off a push rod from both rockers and the valves should be closed. You can do this by fingers because a OHV valves spring are weak. If you are ever taking off any parts of the intake and ex hardware keep it separated from each other. You can test that they are closed by injecting about 25 lbs of air into the spark plug hole using a rubber tipped air nozzle.
You do not have to set the piston a TDC as some suggest because with the push rods off both valves should be closed and the only air leakage you hear is air going into the crankcase and none out the ex or intake.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

Arkie said:


> couple hints:
> Appears you might have to junk the engine, but if you want to give it the old college try and a learning process. Appears you are going in behind where some Bubba's have left lots of afterbirth which makes the process little more challenging,
> 
> You can also download a FREE SErvice manual for Briggs OHV single cylinder engines as a reference.
> ...


Intake valve leaking.

Sent from my MotoG3 using Tractor Forum mobile app


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

The intake push rod has a slight curve to it. That should be easy to replace. Hubby wants to take the valves out and inspect the seals, but I think we need a special clamp to compress the springs? What is that tool called so I can search for it? What should I use to clean this up so we can inspect it better?

I don't see anything wrong with the head and valves besides being dirty. Head gasket looks good, although maybe the bolts were over-torqued. The black is carbon, which is normal output of a fire. What is the red-grey particles on top of the carbon? I'd think rust would be under the carbon?


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## Arkie (Aug 6, 2014)

The valve springs are weak on a OHV Briggs and you can push them down with your fingers to remove the keepers. (keep the in and ex stuff separated, they are slightly different) I use small one zip bags for such. I do not see any need in removing the valves for now. You can use water on the backside just to see if they are sealing when closed. But a bent push rod indicates that one of the valves may have contacted a piece of carbon in the head or has a galled valve guide and the valve not allowed to open far enough without encountering resistance..

Try taking you fingers and pushing on the valve stems and see if they open and snap closed ok.
If the intake Push rod is bent pay close attention to the intake valve for friction in the guide that would cause a push rod to bend.
But usually it's a ex valve that has galled valve guide and bent push rod.
You should have checked the compression before you removed the head but your starter was not running.

So far we see that you need starter bendix gear, flywheel (those starter rings are not available W/O a flywheel), head gasket and no telling what else.

What you probably need is an old donor motor that has a flywheel and parts such as starter, head and ?

You have lots of carbon build-up which indicates oil burner.

To get an idea of the motors internal condition BEFORE TEAR DOWN since the motor would not spin enough to do a compression test you should have done at least a leak down test. (you can review this test on-line)


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

The flywheel is still hard to turn with the head and push rods removed. I think it's dead and it's down to autopsy now.


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## Arkie (Aug 6, 2014)

If you do not have it already you can download a Briggs OHV* single cylinder SERVICE* manual or buy one for around $25.

Since you cannot get it too electric start crank (turning over tight might be what has ruined the flywheel and starter area, usually takes something unusual to break flywheel teeth especially if the bendix gear is the fiber type) you might as well just pull the sump off and take a look.
You might want to download a free Briggs SINGLE cylinder OHV SERVICE manual first so as you will have an idea of the innards, especially the anti-vibration counterbalance assembly and the governor gears that are probably going to dislodge, etc.

Appears you are wanting to see the innards, this will help you to practice re assemblying the block also.

I suspect that is a oil burner from the looks of the carbon build-up on top of the piston, but a leak down test would have confirmed such if done previously, maybe.

*Let us know what you find?*


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

I did get the service manual last time we bought parts. It has a whole chapter on disassembly.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

We're kinda in rest mode right now though, so will be a bit. Did lots of farm stuff this past week and need to recover. (Yes, we're not really cut out for farming are we?)


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test

We don't have the appropriate gauges to get a percentage, but we did try blowing air in the spark plug hole, and it seemed pretty leaky out the intake port.

Our air compressor is on the list of repairs. Has leaky seals and is unreliable at low tool pressures. Need to fix that before investing in more gauges is worthwhile.


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## DLSkidmore (Jun 21, 2018)

I lost the bet with hubby, the starter CAN turn the flywheel with the head removed... So the cylinder/piston isn't the problem.


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