# Ford 3000 transmission oil seal replacement



## Ben Willmoth (Sep 6, 2019)

Hello - I'm new to this forum and have run into an issue. I bought a 1968 Ford 3000 to restore as a project for myself during college. (I've never done this before and am learning as I go) I've been working on it and I am now trying to replace the front transmission oil seal. The tractor is split and I have removed the clutch shaft and release bearing assembly already. I have taken out the 5 bolts that hold the clutch releasing bearing support to the front support plate but I can't seem to get the support to come out to be able to replace the seals behind it. Does anyone have ideas of how to get this out? I might be missing something. The shop manual that I have just says to remove the bolts and take it out, but it doesn't seem to be that easy. At least for me. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

It's just stuck. Probably hasn't been out of there in years so the gasket behind it is somewhat petrified. Or maybe someone HAS been there and just used a sealant. Either way, just reach in with a hammer and smack it sideways a time or two and see if it breaks loose.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Gentle smacks. The bearing support is stuck in the support plate. That plate is thin and made of cast material, and will not take much violence before cracking or shattering.

Better to find a tool to grab the bearing support close to the support plate and tap the tool in order to rotate the bearing support. That way the bearing support may loosen and can be pulled out.

Another solution is to remove the support plate with the bearing support left in it. Then you can deal with things on the workbench. As you can see in the shop manual, the support plate has dowel pins and has to be pulled straight out. Loosen the bolts (not remove) and pry gently at three o'clock and nine o'clock. Finally it is loosened, you can remove the bolts and pull the whole assembly forward.

Be gentle with heat on the support plate, if you want to try that.


***
Edit:
Nine o'clock, not six o'clock...
***


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## Ben Willmoth (Sep 6, 2019)

I was able to get it out today, I ended up taking the steering column off. When I got it out it came out with the PTO drive shaft, bearing, and the seal all still stuck in the housing. I'm assuming this is normal. Now that I have this out, how do I get the PTO shaft and bearing out. There was a snap ring on the bearing which I took off and I think the bearing is pressed in there? The bearing needs to be replaced. My manual also shows another snap ring under the bearing holding the oil seal in. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do, and I have no experience doing this. Thanks for any help!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Type of transmission?
Type of PTO?


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## Ben Willmoth (Sep 6, 2019)

Hacke said:


> Type of transmission?
> Type of PTO?


It’s an 8 speed transmission, I’m not exactly sure of the type of pto, as I haven’t used it yet. Based on the diagrams in the manual I believe it’s a live pto.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Using diagrams and manuals and doing part searches is so much easier if you know what you have.

Good help to find and decode your numbers:
http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/rhcodes_serial.html

especially:
http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/sn.html


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## Ben Willmoth (Sep 6, 2019)

Hacke said:


> Using diagrams and manuals and doing part searches is so much easier if you know what you have.
> 
> Good help to find and decode your numbers:
> http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/rhcodes_serial.html
> ...


It is an 8 speed with a live pto. Here’s a picture of what I’m trying to get apart if that helps.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Remove the snap ring (which you already have done?) that holds the bearing and press/tap the hollow shaft "backwards" through the clutch release bearing support (to the left in your picture).

The bearing will follow the shaft out. If memory serves me right , the inner snap ring is sitting on the hollow shaft, holding the bearing.

Then the seal can be pulled out.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I found a picture that make things more clear:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/PTO-Input-Shaft-New-Ford-C5NN772A/330938199

You see the groove where the snap ring sits. The bearing sits between the gear and the snap ring. The seal acts upon the area to the left of the groove.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Just a tip:
Small burrs and sharp edges on the splined part of the shaft can make cuts in the seal lip, when the shaft passes the seal at reassembly. These cuts will grow with time and cause a leak.

Before you put the shaft back, cover the splined part of the shaft with one layer of electrical or packing tape. Wrap the tape a bit pass the end of the shaft, form a cone there that will make a smooth entry into the seal and put some oil on the taped surface and the surface that the seal will act upon.


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## Ben Willmoth (Sep 6, 2019)

Hacke said:


> Just a tip:
> Small burrs and sharp edges on the splined part of the shaft can make cuts in the seal lip, when the shaft passes the seal at reassembly. These cuts will grow with time and cause a leak.
> 
> Before you put the shaft back, cover the splined part of the shaft with one layer of electrical or packing tape. Wrap the tape a bit pass the end of the shaft, form a cone there that will make a smooth entry into the seal and put some oil on the taped surface and the surface that the seal will act upon.


Ok, I got all that figured out now, thank you very much for the help. _I've run into another issue however, I'm wanting to replace the bushings on the clutch release shaft going into the bell housing. I ordered the part from yesterdays tractor that the parts diagram shows but its a quarter inch to big in every direction. I've been looking for the right sized bushing but have had no luck finding it online. The inner diameter is somewhere right at an inch, and the length is 1.25. I'm not sure of the outer diameter, however all the ones I have found online have had an inner diameter of 1.2 inches and a length of 1.5. Have you happened to run into this issue before?_


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

If you provide us with the model number, production code and serial number, we all know what we are talking about.


Is this the one you have bought?:
https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/C5NN7A615A_Clutch-Shaft-Bushing_18175.htm

I have not heard of differences in sizes, but this is interesting:
It is a seller that lists this steel bushing (with rust included):
https://www.agrilineproducts.com/parts/clutch/clutch-cross-shaft-bush.html
Note the "Force models only" comment. That means that it only fits tractors assembled from 4/68 and forward. They do not have one for the earlier tractors (Pre Force models).

And there are different bushings at New Holland, this is for tractors assembled up to 30-SEP-1969, # C5NN7A615B (81805432):
https://www.messicks.com/part/81805432/ring
no picture.

And this is for tractors assembled after 01-OCT-1969, # C5NN7A615A (81805431):
https://www.messicks.com/part/81805431/bushing
a steel bushing.

New Holland mentions a bronze bushing, but that is no longer available.


The aftermarket sellers use to refer to the later one without mentioning years, like this one:
https://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itm/...5mm-1-1-2-ID-2957mm-1125-OD-3035mm-1195/66350


Get in touch with New Holland and ask them to measure the bushing # C5NN7A615B (81805432).


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