# 68 Ford 3000 Hyd questions



## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Hello, 

New here hoping to get some questions.
Acquired a 68 Ford 3000 with the small acreage I just bought, it hasn't ran in a while so got a good deal.

Fresh gas and some tinkering to the starter got it running last night! Now to figure out how the hydraulics work.. I have a remote cylinder that turns the chute on the snowblower and that is working (besides the leak on the quick connect). What confused me was that I couldn't get the 3 point to lift. 

I found a manual for the tractor in the shop which was sort of helpful, found the rear axle and trans fluid level plugs and their fill ports. I know the level is going to be low given the large puddle of fluid under the tractor. When checking the rear axle level (nothing came out) I took out the slotted screw next to the plug... after searching online and finding this pic saying DO NOT remove that screw I am worried. I've seen a few pictures and it looks to be a clamp for a hose inside the compartment, do I need to take of the Lift cover and re-attach the clamp?








Also would like suggestions for what kind of fluid to use, I will be using the tractor in the cold (Winterpeg, MB, Canada)

Thanks


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Welcome Kurtis. For the screw you took out I can't help. For the oil use universal tractor fluid in rear differential, manual transmission, power steering and front end loader if equipped. They are great old tractors if proper maintenance is done. I recommend you getting at least an IT manual or a set of ford reperduction manuals. They can be found on eBay . Downloadable versions 2 CD copies and also the hard copies. You will not regret this purchase. Engin oil most people use a good sinthetic oil like Rotella. 15-40 for diesel and 10-30 for gassers. A 5-30 in colder climates. Would you have a selector valve underneath the seat by the two gear shifters. That will control the direction of flow to the three point hitch or remote or both at the same time 
Good luck and have fun.


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Hey thanks, I did notice the bit about the selector valve after more reading. I have what looks to be a two spool remote hydraulic block with only one spool running at the moment. 







Not sure if the selector valve is still there?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Someone just asked about that slotted screw the other day.
That screw holds a small bracket inside.
Here is what you must do.
Drain down a couple of gallons of oil in the rear end.
Remove the Left step plate . (L/R is ALWAYS as you are sitting in the seat.)
Then remove the round cover.
Look inside with a flashlight and you will see the bracket.
Get a neighbor, buddy, your wife or even a kid and give them a large flat screwdriver.
Have them turn the screw while you reach in from the other side and hold the bracket in place.
Once the screw gets started they can go and you can finish up.
If you have about an 8' arm span you could do it alone. But most of us don't so we need a helper.
PS, 
That is my photo. I don't mind people using it but do wish they would give credit for stuff like that.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

I believe you only have the spool with no selector valve. So you should have pressure to the 3 point hitch at all times. Some of the more knowledgeable members will Shure chime in to confirm this . The lever in the picture is to lock the 3 point hitch for down pressure when for example pulling a furrow plow . And the knob below that is to restrict the flow on the 3 point to raise and lower slower . This can sometimes have some weird reactions so problem could be there. Can't remember if it should be screwed in or out. Probably would not hurt to change all fluids since rear diff is already low. Maybe it's to low to operate the lift. The rear engine mount hyd pump is part of that circuit . It is located on the left rear of the engine. If you fill the rear end and still don't work I'd do a pressure test. Should read about 2500 PSI.

Ultradog has a better explanation in the next post. I screwed up a bit


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

dozer966 said:


> I believe you only have the spool with no selector valve. So you should have pressure to the 3 point hitch at all times. Some of the more knowledgeable members will Shure chime in to confirm this . The lever in the picture is to lock the 3 point hitch for down pressure when for example pulling a furrow plow . And the knob below that is to restrict the flow on the 3 point to raise and lower slower . This can sometimes have some weird reactions so problem could be there. Can't remember if it should be screwed in or out. Probably would not hurt to change all fluids since rear diff is already low. Maybe it's to low to operate the lift. The rear engine mount hyd pump is part of that circuit . It is located on the right rear of the engine. If you fill the rear end and still don't work I'd do a pressure test. Should read about 2500 PSI.


Dozer, 
I don't want to cause trouble here but some of the things you state are just inaccurate.
That lever just above the flow control valve is to switch between position control and draft control. Ford never put down pressure on the 3 point - ever. For special uses a guy could install a kit that gave down pressure but I'm not sure if Ford ever offered that.
The only kit for down pressure I've seen was an aftermarket setup for like a Gannon type box blade.
Also, the flow control valve does not control the rate of drop on the 3 point. Only the rate of lift. It functions by dumping a variable portion of the oil from the pump back into the reservoir. The unloading valve under the top cover controls the rate of drop on the 3 point.
Lastly, the hydraulic pump on a 3000 is on the left side of the engine. The older - pre 1965 - tractors did have the pump on the right.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Ultradog said:


> Dozer,
> I don't want to cause trouble here but some of the things you state are just inaccurate.
> That lever just above the flow control valve is to switch between position control and draft control. Ford never put down pressure on the 3 point - ever. For special uses a guy could install a kit that gave down pressure but I'm not sure if Ford ever offered that.
> The only kit for down pressure I've seen was an aftermarket setup for like a Gannon type box blade.
> ...



And this is why I love this forum. We all work together to learn and achieve the same thing. Thanks for having my back and correcting me when I mess up.
I did say there are more knowledgeable people here and they are great.
I thought i had a good understanding of this but I don't. Il have to play with them next summer.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Like I've always said, the friendliest and most informative site on the world wide web. Kudos to you guys! 
Now we all know what that dang screw is for as well!!


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Thanks for the clarification, sorry about using the pic I had looked at so many threads forgot where I go it from.


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

If the lift arms do not go up most likely you don’t have enough hydraulic fluid or you are using the wrong control to raise it. The fluid should be 134D hydraulic fluid. You should drain out the old fluid with the arms down. The drain plug is on the bottom of the rear end. You fill it until fluid starts draining out the check plug located on the right hand side. It will be the square plug in the photobucket pic that is circled. You fill it with the arms up. You cannot check the fluid just by taking out the plug. You have to add fluid until it starts draining. I recommend flushing the transmission and rear end fluid with two exchanges of fluid to get all the water out. It takes 10 gallons to completely refill both the transmission and rear end. I use a fluid from tractor supply for older tractors that slowed down my leakage. I also tightened up the bolts connecting the transmission housing to the rear end because they were loose and fluid was leaking there. This is a common leak problem. Get a service manual and owners manual reprints from EBay and get a repair manual from tractor supply. Use Messicks for parts diagrams. 
The control for the lift arms is on the right side and is a bar running along a quarter circle. The lever in the 2nd pic is draft control. It should be in the raised position to turn draft control off. You don’t need draft control unless you are plowing. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Thanks for the info, picked up some fluid the other day and hopefully work on it soon. Here is a picture of the underside looking towards the back. Just want to clarify a few things; in the circle there is a decent leak coming from the brake shaft, would this be a seal? Tractor has been sitting for a long time so will get it moving and monitor it. #1 I am unsure what that is. #2 is the drain plug for the rear axle/ hyd fluid?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

The leak at the circle is caused by a failed seal. There is one on both sides of that shaft. If you replace one side, replace them both. If the shaft is badly worn new seals won't last. If you remove the shaft there are a couple of spacer/washers on the shaft. They are different thicknesses. Pay close attention to where they were - take a photo or take notes. They have to go back in the right place and photos in the manual don't show them very well.
Item #1 is your hydraulic relief valve. No need to ever remove or mess with it. They pretty much never go bad or cause a problem.
#2 is the drain plug for the rear end.
Depending on my plans for a tractor - keep/resell I will either drain the fluids out and pour in 5 gallons of diesel fuel and go drive it around for 10 minutes then drain and refill with 134D oil. Same with the transmission. If the tractor is a keeper I will remove the drains, pull the lift cover and transmission cover and blow both cases out with the pressure washer. If I can't refill the transmission and run it that same day I will use a whole can of WD40 (wd=water dry) with the straw and spray all the bearings and gears with. If I refill that day I don't bother with the WD. Rear end I don't bother with the WD.
If you pull the lift cover you WILL need a new gasket.
Best to have a strong helper or engine hoist to pull the lift cover.
You will most likely need to bleed the hydraulic pump after draining so don't be surprised if your hyds don't work when you are done here.


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Hey fellas,

Managed to get the screw back into its place by accessing the side hatch!
I also have a couple seals on order to hopefully fix the leak.

Was showing the pics to my Uncle who is a diesel mechanic and he seems to think that some water has gotten into the compartment somehow, mentioned to look for a breather. Is there such on this rear end?











So if there was water in there how can I go about flushing the rear end?
There is some fluid left in that compartment as you can see, is this normal?

All of the gears in there looked in good shape, there also wasn't too much stuck to the magnetic drain plug.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

You could buy a suction gun, looks like a grease gun without the handle. Oil does look milky, which does indicate water in the oil. It can get in through the shifter boot and such, and can be from condensation as well.


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Hey guys,

Managed to get as much of the nasty fluid out and filled it up, then had to take apart the starter and clean it up as it seemed to have a sticky spot.
Got the tractor warmed up and took it for a drive! The 3 pt hitch lifts now so I was able to re-check with it up and add some more fluid.

Now that I am running I will change the engine oil, trans, grease and filters while I'm at it.

Was looking at the tranny drain plug then noticed another hole closer to the front of the tractor with a part of a cotter pin hanging out of it; whats this hole for? Is it normal?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Kurtis Dyck said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> Was looking at the tranny drain plug then noticed another hole closer to the front of the tractor with a part of a cotter pin hanging out of it; whats this hole for? Is it normal?
> ...


That cotter pin is hooked to a grenade in the bell housing. When you get totally frustrated with your tractor you can pull that pin out and the whole tractor will vaporize. Wink
The cotter pin goes through a weep hole in the bell housing to drain any leakage from the seals in the rear of the engine and front of the transmission.
The weep hole prevents the bell housing from filling up with oil and messing up your clutch.
The cotter pin gets "tickled" by tall grass and jangles around in the hole to prevent it from plugging.
Ford used that same hole with cotter pin from 1939 till at least the late 1980s.
So simple yet so effective.
I need not tell you to leave it be.


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Hey guys, 

Did the tranny, engine oil changes and was able to get the tractor out to pull my drag to pack the snow down, also moved some trailers around. 

It snowed again about a week after that and I went out to try and blow some snow, had the tractor warmed up and the 3 point doesn’t lift at all. 
I primed the hydraulic system by pulling the plug on the pump till solid fluid came out and then topped up the fluid level. I have a remote cylinder on the blower that still works.. not really sure what to check next? 

Also the oil seal around the filter can is slightly leaking once in a while, any fixes to that?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Those darned side mount hyd pumps can be finicky.
You can bleed them so you have clear oil coming out of the bleeder and half an hour later they'll lose prime again. First I would recheck your prime.
I did see you mentioned before, you have a dual remote on your tractor with only one spool being used and it works.
 Make sure the handle for the spool that is not in use is in the center position otherwise the 3 point won't work. 
If you continue to lose prime you might inspect your hydraulic suction line (big one) that goes from the pump to the rear end.
If they suck any air they'll lose prime. Look at it closely for holes, dents or rust spots that could allow it to suck air.
You can clean, clean, clean the connection where the suction pipe enters the pump and the other end where it enters the rear end - (I use a rag and lacquer thinner to clean) then wipe a Small amount of silicone with your finger around that connection. You can use gobs and gobs of silicone too if you wish but when I see that I usually think the tractor owner/mechanic is a dufus. Your call there 
As to the engine oil filter it sounds like you have the old canister type filter?
If so, the big round rubber gasket can be tricky to get right.
First make sure you only have one gasket there.
Then remove the gasket and clean the gasket area - again with lacquer thinner. I always have a gallon of that stuff on hand. Then use a Tiny amount of silicone and glue the gasket in. By tiny I mean just barely enough to "wet" the surface and hold it in place till you get the canister installed. You do NOT want the silicone to mush out and get into the oil galley of the engine. Once I get that rubber gasket in place and it doesn't leak I do not replace it with subsequent oil changes.
Just some FYI stuff for you here:
1968 was a year that began a lot of running changes to those tractors. The wrap around grill and louvered hood was changed to flat grill and smooth side hoods.
Hydraulic pump and lines went from a 3 bolt maniold type to seperate lines.
They did away with screw in frost plugs and went to a modern press in type. Oil filter changed from canister type to spin on. Swing out battery tray changed so you could pull a large pin and remove it.
Power steering pump changed about that time from seperate pump with reservoir under the hood to integral pump/reservoir. Lifters and push rods in the engine changed. Governor changed from two arm to one arm type.
Clutch rod, clutch return spring and bell crank on live pto models changed.
Radius rods and attaching location on the front axle changed. Diesels got rid of the little reservoir for the Thermo Start feature. Plus a bunch of other nit picky things.
I mention all this so if you ask about any of this stuff maybe this will jog your memory so you can tell us which and what you have - and because it's 4:25 AM and I have nothing better to do.
Keep us posted on your progress/ problems. We like these old tractors.


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Thanks for the ideas, I took a look at both ends of the hydraulic line from the pump, tightened up a few bolts along the way. Re primed as per the manual, still no lift. While tractor was running there was no leaking from either end. 
I tried to move the second remote but there is no handle on it and I need that or something longer for leverage it didn’t want to move. 
If I were to take off the lines to clean and seal those surfaces I would have to drain the fluid from the rear end? 

Boggles me that the lift worked well then all of a sudden it doesn’t... 
Which parts are pressurized while running? If I were to add more fluid after priming would this introduce air?


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

Any answers to my last questions? we just got a bunch more snow, thank goodness for nice neighbours but I' really like to get this thing fixed!

I will check the seals for the Hyd lines at both ends and ensure I have a good connection, if that doesn't solve the problem then I will have to take off the lift cover and see whats going on inside. While I have the cover I can inspect the filters and replace o rings/ gaskets, anything else i should have on hand before opening the cover?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Sorry I can't help you out much, but I'm sure one of the Ford guys will come along soon. Did you check the hydraulic suction filter to see if it's plugged? 
Have you seen this? May give you some ideas where to look next. 








Main thing is to keep everything totally clean. Any dirt or grit is going to give you problems.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

You mentioned you checked for leaks on both ends of your line.
Which line? And remember; it is a leaking *suction* line that can frequently cause it to lose prime. It may not leak outwardly but it can *suck* air into the pump and cause a loss of prime.
Don't pull the top cover off and don't operate off of hunches.
Go buy a pressure guage.
Just like you can't read ohms and volts without a meter you can't read hyd pressure without a guage.
Install it on the end of one of your remote lines and crack the handle for a second or two.
Your pump should run about 2500 psi.







You can buy a liquid filled guage - most will read 5000 psi for about $20 on ebay, amazon, harbor freight etc.
I still suspect the sudden loss of lift is caused by you bumping one of the remote handles.
Or you are losing prime.


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## Kurtis Dyck (Nov 14, 2018)

The lines I had inspected were the hard hydraulic line from the pump to bottom of sump. 

So I had some success tonight!
Thanks for all of the help!

I happened to have a gauge on hand and it threaded right into my hyd QC, tested pressure at both remote lines and the needle was bouncing lots but would pin to 2550 and flutter. 
So my pump must be alright

Ultradog was mentioning the remotes not being in the right place, so I had to Mcgyver a lever for my unused spool. Manage to work the control valve in and out and left it where it’s happy in the middle. 

Had the tractor running - no lift

Ensured that I had fluid, then Bled the pump once again.
Started it up and no lift.. drove the tractor outside and left it on high idle for 10 mins. When I went back to check on it I had lift!! 

So worked it through the range a few times, then hooked up the blower and moved some snow!! 








So not 100% sure what the problem was.. will be interesting to see if it will work again tomorrow.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Kurtis Dyck said:


> The lines I had inspected were the hard hydraulic line from the pump to bottom of sump.
> 
> So I had some success tonight!
> Thanks for all of the help!
> ...


Excellent!!
They can be baulky/tricky to bleed sometimes.
A fluctuating pressure guage generally means air as one or more pistons in the pump are pushing air not fluid.
I'll bet if you put the gage back on it the reading would be much smoother now.
Congrats though.
I'm glad you stuck with it and were successful.
Those are such great tractors.


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