# gravely 5665



## hiusmell

Hi, I have a gravely 5665 and I know absolutely nothing about it. I was asked to see how much it's worth, so here it is. 
The only thing I know is, it does start but has a fuel leak.


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## Richard-tx

First of all the Gravely is probably the most rugged, durable, longest lasting machine ever made. Properly maintained, it should last at least 50 more years.

The engine is a common Kohler K301. As such it has all the same issues as any other Kohler.

oldgravelys.net has all the manuals. I recommend you read them thoroughly.

If it were mine, I do a through maintenance on it. That means

Change the oil in the transmission - 5 quarts
Change the engine oil 
replace the fuel filter
clean the carb
Grease the attachments per the manuals.
Check the bolts for the front PTO engagement
Check the 30" mower - Hitting a stump can bend the shaft and make the mower vibrate.
Check the hi-lo and fwd-rev clutches for tightness. Too loose means slippage and that means premature wear.

The 40" mower is a great finish mower. Check the idlers for noisy bearings and replace as needed. Grease the spindles.

They were a very expensive machine new. Just the tractor cost about 25% of the price of a new car. That means that today that tractor would cost $7500. The mower decks were expensive too. 

You are very fortunate to have a workhorse of that caliber. 

PM sent.


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## auctioneeral

so what are you going to keep it or sell the mower.


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## hiusmell

auctioneeral said:


> so what are you going to keep it or sell the mower.


I think sell it.


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## BlownL67

PM sent Hiusmell. 

I live locally and I'd love to check it out!


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## hiusmell

BlownL67 said:


> PM sent Hiusmell.
> 
> I live locally and I'd love to check it out!


PM and email sent.


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## hiusmell

As of right now the owner does not want to sell it, but thanks for all the interest.


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## Richard-tx

So what is he going to do with it? Fix it and use it?


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## hiusmell

I'm not sure. I just emailed him to see if he wanted me to sell it, and he said he moved it to his new farm, so no on selling it.


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## Richard-tx

It is a nice machine for a small farm. It is what it was originally designed for.


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## doctorbillmoore

I know this is an old thread, but . . .

My father, who is now deceased, purchased a 5665 from the Dallas school district when he lived there quite a number of years ago. It then went to my sister and her husband, and they used it, but left it outside. The husband recently passed away, so it came to me not running and having some misc problems. It had a fuel tank leak, so I have removed the tank, cleaned it, and resoldered it. The electrical was not good, so I have redone what was needed cleaning the points, replacing the spark plug, redoing some wiring, etc. I also had to take the carb apart put in in carb cleaner for days, install a new carb kit, etc. I also changed the engine oil, and now have it running.

I want to make sure it is well serviced, so can anyone help me a little with it. I have added a bit of oil through the port on the right side axle housing, greased the shaft that would be on top off the mower deck, and have looked for more places to lube it, but not too sure about where to add/change other fluids. I did notice behind the battery box there is a big rubber plug, but not sure what to use if anything there.

So can anyone help me to know what other fluids need to be changed or topped off? And can you advise what weight oil is needed? 

I am thinking that because I have another significant sized mower, as well as a tractor with a mower, I might not hang on to this one, but sell it once I have it all serviced up and in good operational condition.

Thanks in advance for your help.


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## Beaner2u

Doc, 

I hope you got what you called a plug back into the right axle housing. That is not a fill plug, that is a locking bolt for something called the stationary clutch housing. You should find an oil dip stick on the left side of the chassis in front of the engine. To add oil to the chassis, remove the big rubber plug behind the battery. Both the engine and the chassis take 30w oil.

If you wish to do a quick oil change of the chassis, just remove any attachment an tip the nose into a large pan. You can quickly add oil through the nose once the tractor is level again, or tipped back on its tail.

The chassis takes five quarts of oil for an oil change. The normal drain plug is the bottom bolt on the left axle housing, the bolt with the 3/4" head.

If you do not have manuals, scroll down this page and you will find everything you need.

http://gravelytractorclub.org/index.php/resources/manuals/95-walk-behind-tractors

You may wish to add a clear in line fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump.

Good luck, Roger


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## Richard-tx

The transmission oil should be changed also. 5 quarts of a good high quality 30 wgt or 20-50 engine oil would be good.

The big rubber plug covers the transmission fill hole.

Richard - who lives in the Dallas area and has two 5665s and a 5660


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## doctorbillmoore

Thanks so much for the reply-it is greatly appreciated. I did indeed get the plug back in with no problem at all. I wonder if we are talking about the same plug because this did not seem (with my limited Gravely knowledge) to be any type of a locking bolt. It is one that fits at an angle. Nonetheless, I did drive the mower and it seems to be fine.

I will do an oil change on the transmission as you have helped me with the instructions. I am thinking I may have to replace some seals or gaskets as I have found a bit of oil on the floor of my shop, but I will only see that when I get more oil in it. 

Thanks for the info on the manuals-that will be a great help.

And it did already have a metal inline filter in it, but due to it sitting outside, it had rusted out, so I did replace it as well as the VERY hard. 

Thanks again Roger-it is greatly appreciated!



Beaner2u said:


> Doc,
> 
> I hope you got what you called a plug back into the right axle housing. That is not a fill plug, that is a locking bolt for something called the stationary clutch housing. You should find an oil dip stick on the left side of the chassis in front of the engine. To add oil to the chassis, remove the big rubber plug behind the battery. Both the engine and the chassis take 30w oil.
> 
> If you wish to do a quick oil change of the chassis, just remove any attachment an tip the nose into a large pan. You can quickly add oil through the nose once the tractor is level again, or tipped back on its tail.
> 
> The chassis takes five quarts of oil for an oil change. The normal drain plug is the bottom bolt on the left axle housing, the bolt with the 3/4" head.
> 
> If you do not have manuals, scroll down this page and you will find everything you need.
> 
> http://gravelytractorclub.org/index.php/resources/manuals/95-walk-behind-tractors
> 
> You may wish to add a clear in line fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump.
> 
> Good luck, Roger


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## doctorbillmoore

Thanks very much Richard. Sounds like you are a wealth of information and know these models very well. And you are where this 5665 came from-that is really neat.

My mom and dad lived in Irving a number of years when he worked for General Motors in Dallas on Stemmons Freeway. I went to school in Waxahachie and my wife is from DeLeon out southwest of Ft Worth. We lived in Oklahoma for a while after college, and them moved to Africa for a number of years. Now we are in Missouri but after retirement hope to move to Oklahoma-but that is probably at least 12 years.

Just out of curiosity-any idea of the value of this with only a mower and a sulky (sp)?

Thanks again,

Bill






Richard-tx said:


> The transmission oil should be changed also. 5 quarts of a good high quality 30 wgt or 20-50 engine oil would be good.
> 
> The big rubber plug covers the transmission fill hole.
> 
> Richard - who lives in the Dallas area and has two 5665s and a 5660


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## doctorbillmoore

*Reply*

Please forgive me for not replying sooner. I actually replied and it seems that for some reason the reply was lost in cyberspace. I actually talked with an administrator thinking that the post had to be reviewed prior it being posted. So they have not found the reply, so I write again.

I was able to get the plug back in with no problem and it seems that all is well. And just tonight I began the transmission oil change process. I say process as it is pretty cold here and even though I have it in a heated shop, I want to let all the oil drain out, then in a day or two, I will put the plug back in and fill it with oil.

Thanks for the link on the manuals-that should really help me!

Re the filter, it already had a metal inline filter on it and because it had been sitting out, it had rusted out, so I have replaced it already. Additionally, the fuel tank had rusted out in several places, so the torch and some solder took care of that pretty quick Well, I should say that in two or three tries, it worked pretty quick. I would get one hole fixed, then find another hole. Seems they are all good now. I did have to put a new petcock on the bottom of the tank as it was froze up and I did want to be able to shut off the fuel.

Thanks again for the response and the help.
Bill 



Beaner2u said:


> Doc,
> 
> I hope you got what you called a plug back into the right axle housing. That is not a fill plug, that is a locking bolt for something called the stationary clutch housing. You should find an oil dip stick on the left side of the chassis in front of the engine. To add oil to the chassis, remove the big rubber plug behind the battery. Both the engine and the chassis take 30w oil.
> 
> If you wish to do a quick oil change of the chassis, just remove any attachment an tip the nose into a large pan. You can quickly add oil through the nose once the tractor is level again, or tipped back on its tail.
> 
> The chassis takes five quarts of oil for an oil change. The normal drain plug is the bottom bolt on the left axle housing, the bolt with the 3/4" head.
> 
> If you do not have manuals, scroll down this page and you will find everything you need.
> 
> http://gravelytractorclub.org/index.php/resources/manuals/95-walk-behind-tractors
> 
> You may wish to add a clear in line fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump.
> 
> Good luck, Roger


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## doctorbillmoore

Hi Richard-I also replied to this post-sorry it did not get posted either for some reason, so here comes again.

I believe the transmission and chassis are the same????? If so, I am in the process now as stated above. 

This 5665 served my dad well for a number of years, but after his passing, I really did not want my mom to use it as she is not quite as strong as my dad would have been. 

Interesting that you have a 5665 and live in the area where mom and dad lived and where he got this machine. They were in Irving and actually lived on Irving Blvd till he retired and moved back to Oklahoma.

I do appreciate your reply and appreciate your insight.

Nice day,

Bill






Richard-tx said:


> The transmission oil should be changed also. 5 quarts of a good high quality 30 wgt or 20-50 engine oil would be good.
> 
> The big rubber plug covers the transmission fill hole.
> 
> Richard - who lives in the Dallas area and has two 5665s and a 5660


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## doctorbillmoore

Please forgive me for not replying sooner. I actually replied and it seems that for some reason the reply was lost in cyberspace. I actually talked with an administrator thinking that the post had to be reviewed prior it being posted. So they have not found the reply, so I write again.

I was able to get the plug back in with no problem and it seems that all is well. And just tonight I began the transmission oil change process. I say process as it is pretty cold here and even though I have it in a heated shop, I want to let all the oil drain out, then in a day or two, I will put the plug back in and fill it with oil.

Thanks for the link on the manuals-that should really help me!

Re the filter, it already had a metal inline filter on it and because it had been sitting out, it had rusted out, so I have replaced it already. Additionally, the fuel tank had rusted out in several places, so the torch and some solder took care of that pretty quick Well, I should say that in two or three tries, it worked pretty quick. I would get one hole fixed, then find another hole. Seems they are all good now. I did have to put a new petcock on the bottom of the tank as it was froze up and I did want to be able to shut off the fuel.

Thanks again for the response and the help.
Bill 




Beaner2u said:


> Doc,
> 
> I hope you got what you called a plug back into the right axle housing. That is not a fill plug, that is a locking bolt for something called the stationary clutch housing. You should find an oil dip stick on the left side of the chassis in front of the engine. To add oil to the chassis, remove the big rubber plug behind the battery. Both the engine and the chassis take 30w oil.
> 
> If you wish to do a quick oil change of the chassis, just remove any attachment an tip the nose into a large pan. You can quickly add oil through the nose once the tractor is level again, or tipped back on its tail.
> 
> The chassis takes five quarts of oil for an oil change. The normal drain plug is the bottom bolt on the left axle housing, the bolt with the 3/4" head.
> 
> If you do not have manuals, scroll down this page and you will find everything you need.
> 
> http://gravelytractorclub.org/index.php/resources/manuals/95-walk-behind-tractors
> 
> You may wish to add a clear in line fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump.
> 
> Good luck, Roger


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## doctorbillmoore

Roger, I have replied to your post 3 times and it is still not posting. In short, I am taking your info and using it and now saying thanks!

Bill


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## leemen27

*Stationary Clutch Bolt*

I have a Professional 16 Gravely. I am in the process of replacing a seal in the right wheel axel. After taking off the wheel I noticed a bolt that was loose.
It is a stationary clutch bolt as I can determine. What is it's funchtion?
Should I simply tighten it or does it need to be set a certain way?

Thanks
Leemen27



Beaner2u said:


> Doc,
> 
> I hope you got what you called a plug back into the right axle housing. That is not a fill plug, that is a locking bolt for something called the stationary clutch housing. You should find an oil dip stick on the left side of the chassis in front of the engine. To add oil to the chassis, remove the big rubber plug behind the battery. Both the engine and the chassis take 30w oil.
> 
> If you wish to do a quick oil change of the chassis, just remove any attachment an tip the nose into a large pan. You can quickly add oil through the nose once the tractor is level again, or tipped back on its tail.
> 
> The chassis takes five quarts of oil for an oil change. The normal drain plug is the bottom bolt on the left axle housing, the bolt with the 3/4" head.
> 
> If you do not have manuals, scroll down this page and you will find everything you need.
> 
> http://gravelytractorclub.org/index.php/resources/manuals/95-walk-behind-tractors
> 
> You may wish to add a clear in line fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump.
> 
> Good luck, Roger


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## seabee

the best advice anyone ever gave me was to always get the SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS MANUAL. reading them should answer most of your questions. also when you order parts and have model ,type ,serial number, and, code with you or you can try to look up the parts for yourself, these manuals are well illustrated. you will save time and frustration at the parts counter. thankyou.


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