# Dumb tractor girl needs help!



## AnnaLee

I need some help! I'm new to this tractor stuff! I purchased a used Massey Ferguson 1428v tractor a few months ago. Immediately started having problems with the hydraulics. When I try to raise or lower the bucket its very jumpy/jerky and is constantly making a high pitched whining noise. Some friends suggested start basic and clean the valve body, did that, nothing changed. That's my first problem, second problem, I decided okay I'll take the loader off. Watched a ton of flipping youtube videos on how to take a loader off, guess what, yea mine won't come off that easy. Does anyone know anything about the MF 1428v?
1. How do I get the loader off, do I have to have some special hoist to lift it off?
2.When I detach the hydraulic lines I can't use the rear hydraulics to lift my mower???
3. What else can I check before replacing the hydraulic pump because of the noise and jerkiness?


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## RC Wells

There is no such thing as a dumb tractor person, just an as of yet uninformed operator. We were all where you are at some point.
That is a very good and dependable tractor.
First order of business is to make sure the oil in the transmission (Universal Tractor Fluid) is at the proper level. There is a sight glass down on the left side of the rear end next to the PTO. Make sure the oil is in the center of that glass when the loader is fully lifted. If the oil level is low, or the wrong oil has been used, you get the symptoms you describe. 
You need to obtain the Operator's Manual for the tractor. That model was offered in both a gear transmission, and a hydrostatic version. Both models require the transmission sump be drained, the filters changed, and refilling with fresh Universal Tractor Fluid at a prescribed hourly interval. The manual will cover the requirements. It also sets forth the oils and filters to use.
If the fluid and filters are not serviced, the filters plug and the hydraulics will squeal, jerk, and be slow, much more so in colder weather.
As for the loader it should be a MF 1464 if it is an original equipment MF loader. That loader is usually a quick attach unit that easily lifts itself off the tractor once the front stabilizer legs are set and the pins pulled. Again, the loader comes with its own Operator's Manual that outlines the removal instructions. Most used tractors are missing those front supports that pin to the front underside of the loader arms, just above the bucket. No big issue, MF still stocks them.
If the three point fails to operate you need to verify if you have the optional draft control for the three point. Some of these Iseki built Masseys have a flow control position on the draft control lever, so if it is set such the hydraulic fluid for the three point does not reach the internal rock shaft cylinder that lifts the arms, they just do nothing. Again, your tractor operator manual will explain those settings if it is so equipped. 
I am unaware of any with a manual diverter valve, but check your manual.
Under the front of the seat is a valve that controls the flow rate to and from the three point. Make sure it is set to a middle position until you learn how to operate it most effectively.
There is also a worst case scenario, and that is the cylinder seals in the internal three point lift cylinder are blown. If that happens, the pressure for the hydraulic system is low, can be jerky, the hydraulic pump will br subject to cavitation and scream when it only gets air, and the three point will not lift. That cylinder will blow its seals if too heavy of an implement (like a six foot brush hog) is attached, the three point flow adjustment (under the front of the seat) is too far open so the arms drop really fast, when the dropping implement stopped by lifting the three point control so the hydraulic system temporarily overloads when it jerks to a stop.


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## Just Wondering

AnnaLee ...
I've had similar problems with my tractor and backhoe.
Although not MF, they did leave me perplexed.

Hydraulics not working or whining..
For the backhoe, this was caused by two things
1. water in the hydraulic fluid
2. filter was partially blocked by a slimy, gooey mass
My solution was to drain all the hydraulic fluid I could, replace it and change out the filter.

For my IH 1086
The hydraulics where whining as well and that was two different problems.
1. Two of the four connectors were the wrong type so it spurted oil out of two of the connectors every time the fluid ran through those lines. Eventually the fluid level would be so low that it would whine.
My solution was to suck it up and pay the $$ for the correct connectors.
2. RPMs were too low. I wasn't giving it enough power to compensate for the usage of the front end loader while I still had the blades running on the cutter.
My solution was: I either needed to shut off the PTO on the rear OR give it more power when I had the cutter moving and the front end lifters working.

Removing the front end loader
This was on my IH 1086.
It didn't have any quick connect and no legs or 'stands' for it.
I spent several days soaking bolts and nuts until I finally got things loosened up so I could start the process of removal. I also had to think and re-think the order in which to remove nuts & bolts so I didn't wind up with the unit 'tweaked' at an angle because the tension was uneven when I tried to remove the loader.

My advice?
Buy manuals and read through them.
Go down to your local farm co-op and ask for help. Especially if you go in the mornings or on rainy days when the older farmers might be hanging around.
Check with your New Holland/Massey Ferguson dealer. Near me, the New Holland guys figured out my problem and suggested 'next steps' which eventually led to my success.

My husband's health precludes him from being much help, and when my dad died I inherited several problem vehicles/tractors. Only one of my brothers has any background that is helpful in this. As the only girl in the family, I have just learned to hold my hand up and ask for help-- much like you are doing here.

It isn't dumb. It's simply a lack of experience/knowledge which is corrected with time and persistence.

Good luck and feel free to contact me directly if you want.

JW


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## Just Wondering

I just re-read your post and realized I didn't answer the 'how do I remove it' on the loader.

Removing the loader was a matter of :
1. removing the hayfork off the front bucket
2. removing the nuts & bolts holding the lift arms in place
3. attaching a big strap crosswise between the left & right lift arms
4. using my backhoe to worry the lift forward & off the tractor
5. realizing that it would be easier to leave the backhoe stationary & just back the tractor out from under the lift assembly
6. go get the truck & trailer so I could back it under the lift assembly
7. lower the lift assembly on the trailer

My older version of IH 1086 does not have the stands to independently hold the lift in place while the tractor is moved; therefore, I had to use another piece of equipment to hold the lift assembly up & remove it.

If you don't have a backhoe, you'd have to use a cross beam or something equally tall to chain it to so it can be held up in place while the tractor is removed.

Of course, this is all moot if you have stands.

JW


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## pogobill

AnnaLee, welcome to the forum . Can you show us some photos of your loader set up? I think that there may be just a keeper and a pin to remove on either side. Once that's done, you can work the hydraulics to make the loader remove itself. I fill my bucket to add ballast as I don't have the legs so the loader becomes self supporting when it's removed. Once it's off, unhook the hose quick connects.


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## RC Wells

Pogobill, there is a slight problem with balasting the bucket and pulling the pins on Iseki loaders. The lift cylinders drift ever so slightly and the loader will rock back and rest on the rear connecting plates in a matter of a few days. Unless one has a set of extra long hydraulic hoses it is difficult to get the loader upright again to reconnect.
I have a set of long hoses made up, and get calls monthly from people that need to borrow them. I do what you describe on the older Fords and Masseys, but not on any of the new stuff (john Deeres included). Quality and tolerances on hydraulic cylinders are not what they used to be, the tractor manufacturers even publish drift tolarence specs now for their warranty work.


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## AnnaLee

RC Wells said:


> There is no such thing as a dumb tractor person, just an as of yet uninformed operator. We were all where you are at some point.
> That is a very good and dependable tractor.
> First order of business is to make sure the oil in the transmission (Universal Tractor Fluid) is at the proper level. There is a sight glass down on the left side of the rear end next to the PTO. Make sure the oil is in the center of that glass when the loader is fully lifted. If the oil level is low, or the wrong oil has been used, you get the symptoms you describe.
> You need to obtain the Operator's Manual for the tractor. That model was offered in both a gear transmission, and a hydrostatic version. Both models require the transmission sump be drained, the filters changed, and refilling with fresh Universal Tractor Fluid at a prescribed hourly interval. The manual will cover the requirements. It also sets forth the oils and filters to use.
> If the fluid and filters are not serviced, the filters plug and the hydraulics will squeal, jerk, and be slow, much more so in colder weather.
> As for the loader it should be a MF 1464 if it is an original equipment MF loader. That loader is usually a quick attach unit that easily lifts itself off the tractor once the front stabilizer legs are set and the pins pulled. Again, the loader comes with its own Operator's Manual that outlines the removal instructions. Most used tractors are missing those front supports that pin to the front underside of the loader arms, just above the bucket. No big issue, MF still stocks them.
> If the three point fails to operate you need to verify if you have the optional draft control for the three point. Some of these Iseki built Masseys have a flow control position on the draft control lever, so if it is set such the hydraulic fluid for the three point does not reach the internal rock shaft cylinder that lifts the arms, they just do nothing. Again, your tractor operator manual will explain those settings if it is so equipped.
> I am unaware of any with a manual diverter valve, but check your manual.
> Under the front of the seat is a valve that controls the flow rate to and from the three point. Make sure it is set to a middle position until you learn how to operate it most effectively.
> There is also a worst case scenario, and that is the cylinder seals in the internal three point lift cylinder are blown. If that happens, the pressure for the hydraulic system is low, can be jerky, the hydraulic pump will br subject to cavitation and scream when it only gets air, and the three point will not lift. That cylinder will blow its seals if too heavy of an implement (like a six foot brush hog) is attached, the three point flow adjustment (under the front of the seat) is too far open so the arms drop really fast, when the dropping implement stopped by lifting the three point control so the hydraulic system temporarily overloads when it jerks to a stop.





RC Wells said:


> There is no such thing as a dumb tractor person, just an as of yet uninformed operator. We were all where you are at some point.
> That is a very good and dependable tractor.
> First order of business is to make sure the oil in the transmission (Universal Tractor Fluid) is at the proper level. There is a sight glass down on the left side of the rear end next to the PTO. Make sure the oil is in the center of that glass when the loader is fully lifted. If the oil level is low, or the wrong oil has been used, you get the symptoms you describe.
> You need to obtain the Operator's Manual for the tractor. That model was offered in both a gear transmission, and a hydrostatic version. Both models require the transmission sump be drained, the filters changed, and refilling with fresh Universal Tractor Fluid at a prescribed hourly interval. The manual will cover the requirements. It also sets forth the oils and filters to use.
> If the fluid and filters are not serviced, the filters plug and the hydraulics will squeal, jerk, and be slow, much more so in colder weather.
> As for the loader it should be a MF 1464 if it is an original equipment MF loader. That loader is usually a quick attach unit that easily lifts itself off the tractor once the front stabilizer legs are set and the pins pulled. Again, the loader comes with its own Operator's Manual that outlines the removal instructions. Most used tractors are missing those front supports that pin to the front underside of the loader arms, just above the bucket. No big issue, MF still stocks them.
> If the three point fails to operate you need to verify if you have the optional draft control for the three point. Some of these Iseki built Masseys have a flow control position on the draft control lever, so if it is set such the hydraulic fluid for the three point does not reach the internal rock shaft cylinder that lifts the arms, they just do nothing. Again, your tractor operator manual will explain those settings if it is so equipped.
> I am unaware of any with a manual diverter valve, but check your manual.
> Under the front of the seat is a valve that controls the flow rate to and from the three point. Make sure it is set to a middle position until you learn how to operate it most effectively.
> There is also a worst case scenario, and that is the cylinder seals in the internal three point lift cylinder are blown. If that happens, the pressure for the hydraulic system is low, can be jerky, the hydraulic pump will br subject to cavitation and scream when it only gets air, and the three point will not lift. That cylinder will blow its seals if too heavy of an implement (like a six foot brush hog) is attached, the three point flow adjustment (under the front of the seat) is too far open so the arms drop really fast, when the dropping implement stopped by lifting the three point control so the hydraulic system temporarily overloads when it jerks to a stop.


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## AnnaLee

Thank you everyone for the responses. I am going to print these responses and take them with me when I go to my property, I have zero connections to the real world out there. I will take some pictures and post them if I can't get that loader removed and let you know how the hydraulic check goes! I've watched a ton of youtube videos on how to remove loaders, youtube made it look so easy!


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## Bill Russell

BTW, I'm still working on my injection pump, guys, and Oh, by the way, I'm really a dumb farm girl. You've heard of "A boy named Sue"?; well...


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