# Got some implement questions - LOTS QUESTIONS!



## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

I use a restored Ford 8N as my primary tractor for my 10 acre land spread utilizing my Craftsman GT5000 for the light/medium duty work and lawn maintenance and the tractor...well simply for the tractor duties! :clap: My needs are this. Some implements to help remove the furrows in a main open field of mine and grade it somewhat level (you cannot even tell they are there by sight until you run the tractor or LT crosswise and you will feel the bumps bigtime) and also pull the pastures and level some areas, move dirt/gravel around use a basic landscaping/prep tool. 

My questions are:
1. Was looking to pickup a box blade with scarifiers to help maintain some of the pasture land and level out some areas on the property --- generally move dirt, gravel, soils around when dropped off and also chop up the ground just a little bit to prepare for some light grass seeding/fertilization. Am I asking or expecting too much from this one implement? Can anyone shed any insight into this? 

2. Is it ok to get a 6' blade for my tractor? Was told that by getting a larger box blade than your back wheels you could get closer to buildings, poles, fences than one the exact size of the wheels. Any insight here? I was simply planning on get a 5' model and keeping it simple -- remember this is just for my property it is not for commerical use. Prices: $296 for 4' - $308 for 5' and like $329 for 6' --- all brand new and seemed to be built very well. Info on the prices?

3. Guy has a nice compact set of new 12x16 discs - I think there were like 4 sets of 4 discs on it --- seemed pretty small, but then again this is not for commercial usage. Any insight on using discs and when they are truly needed? He wanted about $350 for this set. Any info?

4. Will these implement sellers generally load the implements into your pickup or do I need to get a trailer for em? Seems kinda high to get out once you get back home :kookoo: 

5. Also been looking high and low for a good 2-bottom Dearborn plow for my 8N ---- Anyone know where I can locate one? Thanks!


Thanks so much!
Andy


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*box scraper*

Andy,
If you are buying a box scraper,forget the back blade you will not use it. Get the one that is wider then your tires. If you feel it is a must that you buy more toys for your tractor make the second one a york rake.Level with the box scraper,then york rake it,plant your grass.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Yeah, I only mean the box blade with the scarifiers, slipshod. I shouldn't have just said 6' blade up there. I meant the one tool. 
BTW, when you say yoke rake, I am assuming that is the same as a landscape rake... Like this:

UPDATED: THESE ARE YORK RAKE AND BOX SCRAPER --- I stand corrected again!  ---- Thanks so much Slipshod for having patience with a fool like me.. 


Landscape Rake:
<center><img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/landscaperake.jpg></center>

and here is a picture of the box blade with scarifiers I was talking about (for someone who might not know)

<center><img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/boxblade.jpg></center>


Thanks for the info!
Andy


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*you got it*

that is great tool!Befco is great stuff my tiller is a Befco and I love it.YORK RAKE AND BOX SCRAPER


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

BTW, I dont have a trailer ---- how I am supposed to get these implements out of the bed of the pickup? No booms, backhoes, or fork lifts handy either ---- I am just :kookoo: ?????????

Andy


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*simple*

Drive the tractor to the store,mount them up,drive home. Don't forget your safety triangle on the back.


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*not that you have the problem*

by the by box scraper makes excellent snow removal tool.Just for the record I have used my box scraper so much that I need a new one.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

*Re: simple*



> _Originally posted by slipshod _
> *Drive the tractor to the store,mount them up,drive home. Don't forget your safety triangle on the back. *


Well, considering the store is some 15 miles away and off I-12 highway --- I think I might need an alternative idea. 

Andy


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

Those ridges you say you can't see but can feel when you drive across them were probably left by a disc harrow. Most disc harrows for the 3PH are adjustable from agressive to smoothing. Adjusted properly and combined with the proper pitch, you could feasibly smooth it for planting a grass crop, but not acceptable for planting a smooth lawn. Disc harrows are designed to stir the soil and incorporate organic matter into the soil so it can rot down. Disc harrows also help breaking up sod just prior to plowing, again by breaking up the organic material (the sod) so it will break down a little quicker when buried by the plow. The one your describing sounds like a tandem with 12" discs. A set of discs should be as wide or wider than your tractor so you cover the tire tracks. Is it for the 3PH or for your GT? $350 is a good price either way.

Slipshod is right on about the York rake. A York rake or landscape rake could be likened to a garden rake only on a larger scale. Anything you can accomplish with a garden rake ie: smoothing soil, grading, etc., you can do with a York rake, only faster and a larger area. The reason landscape rakes are referred to as York rakes are the same reasons photocopies are refeered to as Xerox copies.

I had a box blade for my GT and personally didn't care for it. I still have the blade portion which someday I intend to make a belly blade for my GT, but cut the rest of it up for other implements. I have a 3PH back blade for my FNH. With a box blade or back blade you have the ability to finish grade. Coupled with the adjustable link on a 3PH you can crown your driveway for water run off. You can spin a back blade around and fine grade with it

If your objective is to get a glass smooth field for planting lawn grass then a spike tooth chain drag is probably your best bet. It is basically a chain mat with angled spikes on one side. Pulled spikes down and facing forward break up packed soil and is the most aggressive cut. Flipped over with spikes pointing up gives a smooth ready to seed bed. You can also goe over a field once you have seeded to bury it. These drags are available through Northern Equipment (formerly Northern Hydraulics).

I hope this helps.


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*simple and cheap*

A set of old bed springs dragged around works well too


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

*Re: simple and cheap*



> _Originally posted by slipshod _
> 
> *A set of old bed springs dragged around works well too *


There ya go! :smiles:


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

*Re: simple and cheap*



> _Originally posted by slipshod _
> *A set of old bed springs dragged around works well too *



My grandpa used to drag a old tractor tire around his driveway to fill in the holes it seem to work good.:hello:
Jody


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## Dick L (Sep 15, 2003)

After the ground was worked well with a disk I would then use a spring tooth or spike toothed drag going over the ground several times cross ways and corner ways to level the ground and them the bed springs is a cheap way to take away the smaller level ridges left by the drags. The bed springs will help make the surface an even finer seed bed.
I always use a spring tooth to level the ridges left by a disk before planting any crop.

Using a spring tooth drag


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*expensive tool*

I use a pulverizer on the back of my 4600 JD for finish grading. I work commercially and can justify the expense.When I am done wiyh it the area is smooth as a pool table.


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## Dick L (Sep 15, 2003)

That would be a good way for Andy as rental places have them to rent. They would bring it out and come ang get it when he was done. He would not need a trailer or hoist. Would not need to store it eather.


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## johnbron (Sep 17, 2003)

A railroad tie attached to a section of chain-link fencing works good also if the soil is loose & dry.

Or you could try dragging this arty: (Chain-Gang)


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## Dick L (Sep 15, 2003)

I did use two landscape timbers chained togather and pulled it behind a lawn mower for a small yard once. I placed them on opposit angles with longer chains on one side and shorter on the other. Worked as good as bed springs. Easyer to find also. I would have used bed springs that time but could not find any easy to come by.


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*step drag*

A step drag is easy to make and inexpensive.Cut 2x8's or2x6's or what ever two by material you have on hand 2 feet longer then the width of your machine.Cut about 8 of them,fasten them together overlapping each other like clap board siding. drill two holes in the first board about 2 feet left and right of center run rope thru the holes for a hook-up. You can add weight to this setup with blocks or rocks. make sure the leading edges of the boards are to the front.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

*Re: Re: simple*



> _Originally posted by admin _
> *Well, considering the store is some 15 miles away and off I-12 highway --- I think I might need an alternative idea.
> 
> Andy *


Well, what you have there is a perfict excuse for anouther attachment.  

Get a boom pole for the N. They are not that heavy, so you can take it off the truck yourself. They are cheep to boot!! 

Hook that badboy to the N, and use the 3PH to lift the stuff off the truck.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

How much weight can a boom pole lift on a good set of hydraulics from my 8N? How much are we talking about --- cheap? Sounds like a plan to me!!!    

Andy


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Tractor suply has them for around $75- $80. I would think it would lift anything that you could use with a 8N. Probably anything under about 900lbs I would say your safe. It it's to heavy the front may get a little light, but you are only planing to lift it off the truck.


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