# Ideas please - I've tried everything except the thing that works!!



## Mayhill (Sep 1, 2018)

Case 895XL - trying to fix 4WD - found the transmission shaft coupler at the front had lost its splines, - the shaft looks OK, so have a new coupler.

BUT

How to get the front coupler off.

Tried heat
Loads of penetrating fluid, 
Tried a pulley puller
Hammer
Levers
It's stuck !!

Photo attached - any ideas please..?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Have you tried to tap a chisel down along the gap to see if you can spread the coupler a little?


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## Mayhill (Sep 1, 2018)

pogobill said:


> Have you tried to tap a chisel down along the gap to see if you can spread the coupler a little?


Thank you, Yes, tried that and it did open up but no movement off of the spline


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

More heat.....but maybe that can damage seals and bearings inside.

It seems like the holes are threaded.
You could try to put a strip of metal in the gap, screw the bolts in from the threaded side and force the gap to widen.

Hold a big chunk of metal (sturdy hammer/sledge) as an anvil on the "hump side" of the collar and whack it good from the "gap side".

This may be to much heat for the seals and bearings:
Weld a large bead where the picture shows, one on the other side of the hump as well. Wait for the collar to cool and try pulling it off.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

You should be considering replacing that oil seal when you get the coupler off too, a coupla months down the track and it starts leaking and you will be pulling apart again.
Some anti seize would be a good idea too on the splines when you reassemble the coupler,


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Use a 2 jaw puller,and,also check to see if there's an internal snap ring holding it.


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## Mayhill (Sep 1, 2018)

Internal snap ring ? - what is that please - might answer why its not shifting.

Thanks


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

I would try cutting, with a grinder, opposite the slot. Then maybe the chisel will loosen it. The splines must go the full length so there is plenty of 'area' to be rust stuck!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

If the new coupler is number 3 in attached picture (90031C2 or 90030C2), it has no snap ring. The bolts goes into the grooves on the shafts to lock in axial direction.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I am not sure about this, but after looking at parts list I think you may be able to take the input shaft on the front axle out and use a press to get the coupler off. That way you will not need to use heat or violence that may harm anything inside and, as FredM pointed out, you can renew the seal in the process.
There are different types of drive trains, so the details may differ. Talk to the CNH parts dealer and discuss the problem and what parts you will need (seals, bearing, snap ring etc.).

Edit:
If you pull the shaft, you will probably get oil out of the hole. Drain the housing first.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Use a small chisel to shock the slot in the coupler, and use plenty of penetrating oil to loosen the rust. May take daily application of penetrating oil and tapping the slot apart over a week, but it will release when the rust dissolves. The slot only needs to be barely tapped enough enough to allow the oil to do its work. 

It would also help to roll the coupler so the slot is at the top, and then plug the open spline so the oil fills the spline chamber.

Sometimes red LocTite is used by hammer mechanics to lock the front spline to the coupler, not recommenced, but happens. If that occurs it will be necessary to do the above, then heat the coupler to 400 degrees F, to get the LocTite to release. Use a heat gun and an infrared thermometer so you do not overheat the pinion shaft, not a torch. Most often after the use of heat it will be necessary to disassemble the front differential and remove the pinion afterwards to replace the pinion seal.


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## Mayhill (Sep 1, 2018)

Hacke said:


> If the new coupler is number 3 in attached picture (90031C2 or 90030C2), it has no snap ring. The bolts goes into the grooves on the shafts to lock in axial direction.
> View attachment 41539


Yes, definitely number 3 - I have spent that much time looking at - I'd recognise it anytime!!


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## Jason_Sharp1024 (Nov 13, 2018)

What I'm thinking is that you need to get something in the hole to expand it enough to crack it loose from that shaft which could be a pointed chisel and a large hammer. This in addition to a little heat might work but other than that I'm stumped.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Try mixing Auto Trans oil and Acetone 50/50 and use that for penetrating oil. Works wonders.


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## Bruce63 (Nov 27, 2018)

Can you get a grinder cutting disc on it Cutting the length and go slow when u get deeper . Should be able to get off after you split it


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Hey Mayhill, did you get that coupling off?


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## Fitter (Aug 26, 2018)

Tap a chisel length wise to spread coupler open in the slot where the bolts go through. Also use a dremel tool with cutting dish to slot the coupling.


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## Mayhill (Sep 1, 2018)

pogobill said:


> Hey Mayhill, did you get that coupling off?


Hi

Finally I got it off, big bar, tip behind the coupler and levered against the front diff casing.... maybe should have tried the first time, or maybe all the other attempts and great advise given above loosened it!!!

Anyway thank you for your help.

All back together and 4WD worked this weekend...happy tractor happy driver.

Thank you all


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