# Kabota LT 245 DT grinds when putting in gear



## mrvideosawyer (Jun 7, 2015)

Okay here is the deal I have a Kubota L 245 DT 4 wheel drive . When I put into gear it buzzes a bit. It will do this sometimes but not always, I have found if use a really slow engine speed and double clutch before putting in gear it helps a little. (I understand that the transmission is made of straight cut gears, does that make a difference?) 

Any ideas? could it just be a worn clutch (1200 hours on engine) or does the whole trans need to be rebuilt? Anyone have an idea on how much it would be to rebuild? I can still use tractor but the grinding is getting my blood pressure up (I understand that this particular tractor should be stopped before changing gears).

Where would be the best place to get parts if it does need rebuilding?

Jim Sawyer


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Jim,

Welcome to the Tractor Forum.

Years ago, my Ford tractor started grinding when shifting. I adjusted the clutch and resolved the problem (about one year later, the clutch failed completely and was replaced). Grinding gears indicates that the clutch is not releasing fully when the pedal is depressed.


----------



## RM-MN (Sep 11, 2015)

Another possibility is a worn clutch pilot bearing or one that is lacking lubrication. The pilot bearing would be inset into the flywheel and would require the tractor to be split.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Have you checked the clutch pedal free play as per specs, to much free play will give you this problem with the clutch not releasing properly and causing the input shaft to be still revolving which will give you the grinding noise from the transmission.


----------



## mrvideosawyer (Jun 7, 2015)

*Grinding gears on my L245 DT*

So, if I have to split tractor is there anyone out there who has done this chore before? Any advice would be appreciated - Is there an easy way to check clutch for wear before I get wild and crazy - How long should this "little" task take. Anyway, thanks for advice in advance.
Jim Sawyer


----------



## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello Jim,

Have you tried to adjust the clutch? Do you have a service manual for your tractor? If the clutch is at its adjustment limits, then you'll have to split it.

I've split my Ford 3610 several years ago to change the clutch. Used two floor jacks and slid the rear end back on a concrete floor. I followed my shop/service manual...it covered every detail as far as I recall.

It takes about 3 hours to split the tractor apart, working at a reasonable pace, and reviewing (double-checking) the manual as you go. Then clean the clutch housing out, change the clutch plus any shaft seals that are leaking, etc. will probably consume several hours. There's usually a few runs to the dealership to get parts. I was not in a hurry. I got a buddy to help push it back together the following day.


----------



## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Deleted....


----------



## bosshogg (Aug 6, 2012)

Was having similar problems with my Kubota L3400 when I purchased it. Adjusted clutch free play to specified 1" and problem went away.


----------



## bosshogg (Aug 6, 2012)

mrvideosawyer said:


> Okay here is the deal I have a Kubota L 245 DT 4 wheel drive . When I put into gear it buzzes a bit. It will do this sometimes but not always, I have found if use a really slow engine speed and double clutch before putting in gear it helps a little. (I understand that the transmission is made of straight cut gears, does that make a difference?)
> 
> Any ideas? could it just be a worn clutch (1200 hours on engine) or does the whole trans need to be rebuilt? Anyone have an idea on how much it would be to rebuild? I can still use tractor but the grinding is getting my blood pressure up (I understand that this particular tractor should be stopped before changing gears).
> 
> ...


Mine did that and a slight adjustment of the clutch peddle play solved the issue. On mine you only want 1" of free travel on the clutch peddle.


----------



## mrvideosawyer (Jun 7, 2015)

*no more grinding*

Well I guess I should have posted no more grinding. I bought a clutch, pressure plate , throw out bearing and pilot bearing on EBAY, I paid a 125.00. perfect match. When I split tractor and got down to clutch it was bathed in oil, rear seal was shot, so I replaced that also. The biggest PITA was the front end loader (getting it lined up).

End result no more oil leaks and a new clutch that works perfect.

I can understand why the guy sold tractor he just did not want to deal with the expense of putting in a new clutch (how much would that be at dealer) But, I spent some time and rebuilt clutch and it's components and I have a great running tractor.

If anyone needs advice on how to split an LT 245 DT 4 wheel drive I am you manBye


----------



## [email protected] (May 17, 2010)

mrvideosawyer said:


> *no more grinding*
> 
> Well I guess I should have posted no more grinding. I bought a clutch, pressure plate , throw out bearing and pilot bearing on EBAY, I paid a 125.00. perfect match. When I split tractor and got down to clutch it was bathed in oil, rear seal was shot, so I replaced that also. The biggest PITA was the front end loader (getting it lined up).
> 
> ...


Hi my name is Rob I have a early 80's 245DT clutch is maxed out and grinding. Before the grinding was continuing to go forward when under load. I would push in clutch but tractor would continue forward I would need to hit shifter to get out of gear or turn off tractor to move shifter back to neutral. Only recently did the grinding start. So do you have a break down of the parts you replaced also glad I created a cheat on my drive shaft so I can disconnect without having to drain hydraulic fluid. Or is that not possible to avoid when I spit the tractor?


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

How much free play has the clutch pedal have, 1/2 to 1 inch is max, if there is too much free play, then you will have the symptoms you describe, when the pedal is depressed, too much free play wont allow the pressure plate and clutch to separate, hence the drag and grinding.

If the free play is within reason, then possibly the pressure plate has failed.


----------



## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

It's KUBOTA, not Kabota btw.....lol


----------



## [email protected] (May 17, 2010)

FredM said:


> How much free play has the clutch pedal have, 1/2 to 1 inch is max, if there is too much free play, then you will have the symptoms you describe, when the pedal is depressed, too much free play wont allow the pressure plate and clutch to separate, hence the drag and grinding.
> 
> If the free play is within reason, then possibly the pressure plate has failed.


Hi the last time I looked thru the inspection hole at the clutch I believe one of the fingers was missing from the pressure plate. The clutch has never been worked. Another issue that I have had since I bought it. If I am going up a hill and stop there is a good chance if i happen to rollback just a little when I try to release the clutch the tractor will not go forward but will lock shift will be stuck. I then turn off the tractor shifter will still be hard to get to neutral. I have been able to get it to release but I believe it is all related. the clutch never slips it is more like the pressure plate get loaded up and can't release. Just looking for parts to change once I go to work splitting in the spring. Can't be down going into winter.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

[email protected] said:


> Hi the last time I looked thru the inspection hole at the clutch I believe one of the fingers was missing


If you believe that a finger is missing, then that is your problem, the pressure plate wont release evenly and one side of the plate will drag on the clutch plate and cause your problem, so a split will be required at some time .


----------



## [email protected] (May 17, 2010)

FredM said:


> If you believe that a finger is missing, then that is your problem, the pressure plate wont release evenly and one side of the plate will drag on the clutch plate and cause your problem, so a split will be required at some time .


Hi just wondering what are the gotchas. I don,t have a shop manual and I am wondering what things should i watch out for. Are the alingment things to watch out for etc..?


----------



## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Go to www.kubotabooks.com and download the shop manual. It's free and it's am international website. Just leave a small donation, they will appreciate it. Keeps the site going.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

[email protected] said:


> Hi just wondering what are the gotchas. I don,t have a shop manual and I am wondering what things should i watch out for. Are the alingment things to watch out for etc..?


If your tractor doesn't have a loader on front, then you will need a couple of wooden wedges to drive either side of the front axle bolster, this is to stop the front end of the tractor from tipping over on the axle pivot pin, and for safety also, also pigsty under the engine, usually towards the rear of the sump.

Chock the front wheels front and rear to stop the front end from rolling.

Use a trolley jack pushed in from the rear of the tractor and jacked to hold towards the bell housing, a flat area under the transmission and use a piece of flat wood between the jack lift plate and the transmission housing to prevent slippage from metal to metal, if you don't have a concrete floor to work on, use planks for the jack to roll on.

If you have external hydraulics, you will have to drain the transmission before the split.

You may have to remove the starter motor, may have through bolts into the bell housing.

If you can, have 3 people to assist with the split, one to steer the trolley jack, and one each on each drive wheel to roll the rear end away from the front, try and keep the rear square with the front end as you roll back, makes for easier rejoining later, and steady does it, you may have to lever between the bell housing and engine to release the dowel pins, most times there are only 2, one either side, and these are used to align front and rear when bolting together.

If you have a mate with a lathe, ask him to machine a clutch aligning tool, with a small spigot that fits into the fly wheel spigot bush/bearing and the OD to fit the ID of the new clutch disc, this makes for easier rejoining getting the input shaft to align with the clutch disc and spigot bush/bearing don't forget to replace the spigot bush/bearing while the tractor is apart, also check the input shaft oil seal on the transmission side, will save another split later.










The above aligning tools were made from a broom handle and a piece of round steel, home made and cheap, but did the job, you will have to find a piece of round dowel that is slightly oversize to the ID of the clutch disc center and machine to fit, and machine the end to fit the flywheel spigot bush/bearing.

What ever you do, after you have the pressure plate and clutch bolted to the flywheel and you are trying to get the input shaft to enter the clutch plate splines, don't push the clutch pedal down when trying to align, if you do, the clutch disc will drop off center and it will become hard to realign, if you have trouble getting the input shaft to enter the clutch disc splines, rotate the engine a little, and when rejoining, use the bell housing face to the engine mount face for re-alignment, keeping the faces square to one and other, both horizontal and vertical.


----------

