# IH454 - water came out of clutch inspection port



## A_Joseph_PE (May 28, 2016)

I have an IH454 that has been sitting for a while. I start it and run it around the yard every so often. 

Went to put in gear this am and gears grind (never did last fall, bit did have some squeal when clutch pedal pressed).

Opened up the clutch inspection port under the tractor to see what was going on and bunch of water had come out! I'm guessing that is not supposed to happen. 

What to put in there to get rest of water off parts? PB blaster? 

Thanks. I'm nubie to this stuff.


----------



## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Leave the plug out, block the clutch in the depressed position (keeps the clutch disc from bonding to the flywheel or pressure plate as it dries), and let it set in the sun. This is common in tractors that set in the rain or in high humidity storage, and not a problem as long as they are drained and allowed to dry. The clutch disc will likely need to be slipped a bit once it has dried out. To slip the clutch disc put the tractor in high gear and barely let the clutch out so it is just dragging, while holding the brakes. Only takes a few seconds. That will scrub the rust off the flywheel and pressure plate.


----------



## A_Joseph_PE (May 28, 2016)

Ha, sun! I'm in upstate NY and it will be GREY for another few weeks. 

Would putting a heater in the polebarn do the same thing?

By leave the plug out you mean to leave the cover plate off?

Is there any type of preventative maintenance I can do while the plate is open to help it out? I have seen some folks say to throw in some PB blaster, but the doesn't look rusted (but I must admit I don't know what I'm looking at really)

Really appreciate the help! Finally got my starting and electrical issue fixed, and went to put my loader on it, and BANG, no move!!

Thanks again


----------



## A_Joseph_PE (May 28, 2016)

Some images. Not really sure if these help at all. It thought I'd post them.


----------



## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If the pole barn is dry, just letting it set should dry it out. If you warm the tractor up to operating temperature by running the engine once every day or so, that will provide plenty of heat to dry everything out. 

Back in the day we used liquid carbon tetra-chloride (Pyrene fire suppressant liquid) to dry clutch assemblies, but it has been banned by the EPA for decades now. Nothing else really dries like that did.


----------



## A_Joseph_PE (May 28, 2016)

I have read that there is not supposed to have that oil/grease in there. Is that true? 

if I use some sort of solvent to dry it, will I need to grease it again some how? 

Real beginner here...


----------



## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

There will be oil/grease residue in the housing and on the metal clutch components from years of operation. Oil weeps through from the engine main seal and from the tractor transmission main shaft. Some of the bearing linkage may also be equipped with zerk fittings, and grease from years of lubricating will be in the housing. Most owners also use a light penetrating oil on the throw-out bearing holder, bearing housing, and the internal linkage. Never on the contact area where the clutch disc rides between the pressure plate and flywheel, as that will damage the clutch disc itself.

PB Blaster penetrating oil can be used, or even better is a mix of 50% automatic transmission fluid and acetone in a long flexible spout pump oil can. Just wet the bearing assembly, collar, and throw out shaft thoroughly and let it drip dry. A protective oil film will remain. This can be done while the assembly is still wet from moisture, and again after it is dry.

Depending on the throw-out assembly used there may be zerk fittings (grease nipples) on some of the bearing linkage. If so equipped, use a high quality grease after the components have dried of all moisture.

As for grease I use Hydrotex and Lubrication Engineers products exclusively. Unlike nearly all other greases, their products contain no water or clay, so do not harden into abrasive lumps over time, and clings where applied. They also reduce the need for frequent lubrication (labor saver). John Deere Multi-Purpose Extreme-Duty Synthetic Grease (TY25744) or AmsOil synthetic grease also perform well.

I should also mention you should use a rust killer on the inspection plate. A product such as Rust Mort will convert the rust to an iron phosphate that can be primed and painted.


----------



## A_Joseph_PE (May 28, 2016)

Thanks for the help.


----------



## A_Joseph_PE (May 28, 2016)

Here is a quick video of what's going on. 

Wel I tried to upload a video and I can figure it out. Soon as I depress the clutch pedal (less than inch and as soon as there is slijtest oressure) it squeals.


----------



## A_Joseph_PE (May 28, 2016)

Ok, looks like I'm gonna split the tractor and replace the clutch? 

As a nunie I'm gonna have a few buddies help me (well do it). What else do i need, or should I buy other than the clutch assy? 

Thanks again if I'm off on the clutchswap let me know ha!


----------

