# sears ss 16



## BigC (Jan 16, 2012)

Looking for seat pan that bolts to the seat spring and a wiring diagram for the starter switch. I thing I Have everything right,but I have an extra wire with a round connector. Does this one ground the switch to the battery or maybe solinoid? The diagram shows it going to ground on coil, but the wire isn't long enough. Thank for any help. BigC.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

HI,BigC ! I think it had an extension from the armature to the connector you're talking about. Can you post a pic of the connector and engine ?


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## BigC (Jan 16, 2012)

I think I have all the wires in correctly,but lost tag for the short wire with the round connector. The starter switch has three positions. Off- run start. Hope this helps. I think the one with the round hole connector is the ground plug to kill the motor,but it is not long enough to reach the points coil area of the motor. I think the motor is grounded to the frame and the starter switch is connected to the battery ground area where the battery is grounded to the frame. Turning off switch grounds the motor and stops the engine,but not sure. Craig


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Is this a Briggs engine/ONAN/ Kholer ?


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

What does the OTHER end connect to?


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## BigC (Jan 16, 2012)

It is a onan twin 16HP from around 1975.


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## BigC (Jan 16, 2012)

The wire with the round connector in question goes to the I connection on the switch. The schematics show it going to the coil, but the wire is not long enough and the coil never had anything connected to the terminals except one terminal was connected to the points. Research i have done said this is a battery ignition system and the rectifier and solenoid need to be grounded to work. The two wires from the stator go to two connections on the rectifier. There is a third connection from the rectifier that I know goes to the R post on the starter switch. I am thinking the wire in question might be connect the rectifier case to the starter switch as the case is the only thing it would reach. This would ground the rectifier case to the starter switch to ground out the system to stop the engine when the switch is turned off. If I haven't said before the engine is a 16 HP Onan. Craig


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

BigC said:


> The wire with the round connector in question goes to the I connection on the switch. The schematics show it going to the coil, but the wire is not long enough and the coil never had anything connected to the terminals except one terminal was connected to the points. .........


Schematics don't lie if this is the correct one for your tractor.
The "I" terminal of the key switch should have voltage when in the *ON & CRANK* positions *ONLY*. This allows the points/coil to produce spark.
*NO* voltage when OFF, thus *NO* spark.



BigC said:


> ..........Research i have done said this is a battery ignition system and the rectifier and solenoid need to be grounded to work.


It's a battery points ignition, but the rectifier has NOTHING to do with spark!




BigC said:


> .....There is a third connection from the rectifier that I know goes to the R post on the starter switch.


The 2 wires TO the rectifier are the AC input from the stator. The "OTHER" wire is the DC output from the rectifier. (Does (*R*)ectifier make sense. It's used for battery charging, ign. coil, lights. How would you charge the battery if it wasn't connected to the rectifier somehow?



BigC said:


> ..... I am thinking the wire in question might be connect the rectifier case to the starter switch as the case is the only thing it would reach. This would ground the rectifier case to the starter switch to ground out the system to stop the engine when the switch is turned off. If I haven't said before the engine is a 16 HP Onan. Craig


NEWER engines have a kill wire that grounds out the coil. *You DON'T have this type*.
Newer systems use a magnet on the flywheel, passing close to the coil (more correctly called an "armature") that induces an electro-magnetic field to induce spark.

Key switch labeling-
B Battery
I Ignition
R Rectifier
A Accessory (to light switch)

Key switch positions-
OFF no connections.
ON B+I, B+R, B+A
START B+S, B+I (B may or may not be connected to R & A)


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## BigC (Jan 16, 2012)

Thanks Bill. You solved my problem. I set the motor back on the Chassis and the wire reached the coil. Did a continuity test and everything work as you said on the key switch settings. Thanks so much. BigC.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

But does it run?


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## BigC (Jan 16, 2012)

I haven't tried to start it yet because I have it partially apart to clean and paint. I'm sure it will. It did before I started the cleaning painting. The continuity was dead on what you said. Will keep you posted. The holidays slowed me down a little. BigC.


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## BigC (Jan 16, 2012)

Update. Got everything painted but the hood. Working an hour or two a day. The warmer weather helped out a lot. Getting ready to install motor and found out that the plans show a washer under the left rear motor mount. Found the washer when I removed the engine,but was wondering why it is there. Photos included.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Nice work there it looks really good, and like new.


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## BigC (Jan 16, 2012)

Got the SS 16 with the Onan BF 16 HP engine back together and everything electrical works as it should,so your advice was good. Tried to start the tractor and the fuel pump is not working. Opened the pump and it was not put together as in the Onan book. The button and spring was toward the carb side of the diaphragm instead of the way it was shown in the schematics. The diaphragm has a big bulge in it because of this. It has never been worked on as far as I know and the engine ran before I painted it. Put the diaphragm between two flat surfaces to see if it will go back to shape. There was gas in the lower section of the pump where it comes in from the tank,but it probably goyt there when i gravity feed the pump to see if that would help. Any suggestions. Tractor looks good,but the paint chips very easily. At least it is not rusty anymore. Will try to post some pictures soon. Craig


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## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

Really nice job!!! You have the much better Fiberglass dash console. I have a SS 18/6 with the less desirable plastic dash. One of these days, I hope to change it out. Just finished my SS15, minus new decals. Did a color change (trying for a military theme) will try to get a better photo this weekend. Again, Really nice job with your tractor!!!


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