# ford 4000 engine rebuild - flywheel



## simon jeans (Feb 27, 2020)

Hi Everybody, 
I am rebuilding my 4000 engine and are at the stage of fitting the flywheel and clutch. This is my first rebuild and am slowly feeling my way using the workshop manual. 
On page 39 of the manual at the installation of the flywheel it says to install *grease baffle*, and 6 bolts. 
I don't have a grease baffle from the disassembly or in the gasket set. I do have a retainer plate but it looks nothing like the one shown in the parts list.










Is the grease baffle and retainer plate one and the same.

Can anyone who has done their own rebuild send me pictures of what I should have.

Many thanks


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum simon jeans. I can't help, but be sure there are some members here that know these engines inside and out. Someone should be along soon, so keep checking.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Is this a 3- or 4-cylinder engine?
What tractor model does it come from?
What year is it?


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## simon jeans (Feb 27, 2020)

Hacke said:


> Is this a 3- or 4-cylinder engine?
> What tractor model does it come from?
> What year is it?


Thanks for replying. It is a 1972 Ford 4000 3 cylinder diesel. Chassis B907503.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

simon jeans said:


> Hi Everybody,
> I am rebuilding my 4000 engine and are at the stage of fitting the flywheel and clutch. This is my first rebuild and am slowly feeling my way using the workshop manual.
> On page 39 of the manual at the installation of the flywheel it says to install *grease baffle*, and 6 bolts.
> I don't have a grease baffle from the disassembly or in the gasket set. I do have a retainer plate but it looks nothing like the one shown in the parts list.
> ...


You should always mention you have a 3 cylinder 4000.
What manual are you using that talks about a grease baffle?
I don't know what it is.
I have torn into many of those engines and have never seen anything back there but the pilot bearing retainer which you show in your picture.
Looking at it closer, i would definately clean the grease off from around those bolts. You don't want that stuff on your clutch.
Also, from here it looks like I would have had that flywheel surfaced.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

simon jeans said:


> Thanks for replying. It is a 1972 Ford 4000 3 cylinder diesel. Chassis B907503.


PS,
There were two types of retainer used over the years. One is round and has 6 holes. The other is like yours and only uses 2 bolts. One is as good as the other and they may be used interchangably.


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## simon jeans (Feb 27, 2020)

Ultradog said:


> You should always mention you have a 3 cylinder 4000.
> What manual are you using that talks about a grease baffle?
> I don't know what it is.
> I have torn into many of those engines and have never seen anything back there but the throw out bearing retainer which you show in your picture.
> ...


I am using a PDF file copy of 1965-1975 Ford Tractor Service Manual 2000-7000 models. I have added a screen shot of the page.


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## simon jeans (Feb 27, 2020)

Ultradog said:


> PS,
> There were two types of retainer used over the years. One is round and has 6 holes. The other is like yours and only uses 2 bolts. One is as good as the other and they may be used interchangably.


Many thanks, Now I know I have the correct item. 
But I feel there should be something between the retainer and the bearing. My clutch pilot bearing is a loose fit in the crank and I think it came forward to touch the retainer. 
The old bearing had lost one of its side seals and I think it may have been torn off by contact with the retainer.
When everything is in correct position there is a 2mm gap between the bearing and retainer.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

If you have the round type it will also act as a grease baffle, stopping the pilot bearing grease from being thrown out on the clutch's friction surfaces.


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## simon jeans (Feb 27, 2020)

Hacke said:


> If you have the round type it will also act as a grease baffle, stopping the pilot bearing grease from being thrown out on the clutch's friction surfaces.


Sounds like the round retainer is the better one to have. If I can't get the round type what if I made up a suitable sized disk of felt/leather or PTFE to go between the retainer and bearing to act as a baffle. What do you think?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I think it is better to use the original, round, retainer. The thing you have seems to be just a plain plate, nothing that pushes on to the bearing? As I remember, the round type holds the bearing with some spring action when you tighten it.

I think it is strange with a bearing that can slide. They use to have a press fit.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

simon jeans said:


> Sounds like the round retainer is the better one to have. If I can't get the round type what if I made up a suitable sized disk of felt/leather or PTFE to go between the retainer and bearing to act as a baffle. What do you think?


Don't over think this.
There are only about a million of those 3 and 4 cylinder Fords running around and they just have the retainer.


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## simon jeans (Feb 27, 2020)

Hacke said:


> I think it is better to use the original, round, retainer. The thing you have seems to be just a plain plate, nothing that pushes on to the bearing? As I remember, the round type holds the bearing with some spring action when you tighten it.
> 
> I think it is strange with a bearing that can slide. They use to have a press fit.


With all the helpful posts I think I understand whats going on and are happy to use my existing retainer. 
I'm speculating that maybe the early clutch pilot bearings were not of the sealed side type and so grease could come through to the clutch. Therefore the round retainer acted as a grease baffle to prevent this. Later sealed bearings were introduced and the need for the grease baffle was not needed, so the simpler retainer was designed.

Now that's sorted I come to my next issue - after fitting the flywheel and clutch I noticed the flywheel was touching the back-plate. 
Clearly I had made a mistake in the assembly and on closer inspection noticed that the thick cork gasket between the back-plate and the engine block was preventing the back-plate from lying flat against the block. See pictures.















I have been following the manual and using the parts list illustrations as my guide for assemble as it was a long time ago that I stripped it down. I am a farmer and am working on this in between lambing. So I'm not at my best and a helping hand is much appreciated.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It is the way it should be.
When you tighten the bolts that holds the engine to the bell housing, the plate will flatten and the gasket will be compressed.


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## simon jeans (Feb 27, 2020)

Hacke said:


> It is the way it should be.
> When you tighten the bolts that holds the engine to the bell housing, the plate will flatten and the gasket will be compressed.


Thanks for that. Seems a little weird, but I'm grateful not to have to take it apart. 
Are there any other pitfalls I might come up against?
This is proving to be an excellent forum. Are you in the UK. I'm in Somerset.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It really looks misplaced. The gasket is there to stop leakage from the crankshaft main seal to get out and being thrown around in the clutch area. Instead, the leaking oil is diverted to the bottom of the bell housing and is supposed to drain out through the small hole in the belly of the bell housing. The hole will usually have a split (cotter) pin that is supposed to clean the hole from dirt as it wiggles around in the breeze.

It is a simple way to hold the gasket in place, and to get the plate fixed in it's center.


I do not see any pitfalls. I would have renewed the crankshaft main seal when the tractor is already split. Will you renew bearing and seals for the transmission/PTO shafts?

I am in Sweden. 


https://www.agrilineproducts.com/ford-fordson-gasket-crankshaft-seal-housing-7111


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## simon jeans (Feb 27, 2020)

I am replacing bearings and seals as I go. 

I have put the block back on the transmission and the timing gears and front cover. All OK.

I then fitted the sump using a new cork gasket with hylomar gasket seal and then tightened the sump bolts.
Only to see the cork gasket had squeezed out from the joint alarmingly. I took the sump off again to find the gasket had torn pass the bolts!
I reread the manual and discovered there is a bolt tightening sequence which I had not followed. While I wait for the new gasket to arrive I decided to push my first gasket back into place and tighten the bolts back up in the recommended sequencing to see the effect. I attach some photos. 
What do you think - is what I'm seeing normal.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It looks like the gasket is oversized. If it covers the sealing surfaces on the block and pan, there should not be a problem. If it is not covering the surfaces, it could be squeezed out when you tighten the bolts.

Be careful not to overtight the bolts. The lip on the pan is reinforced partially. At the non-reinforced places there is very thin material that gives easily, and you may crush the gasket (it breaks at the bolt holes).

Check that the pan lip has a flat mating surface.

Edit***
By the way, the New Holland Parts Number for the gasket is F0NN6710AA.
***


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