# New Holland TC 25



## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

I have a 2000 model NH TC 25 with manual transmission and Non Live PTO. It has 1640 hours on it. I have recently been experiencing a lull or strain between the engine and the power train. What I mean by that is, when traction is even moderately compromised,(mud or thick deep grass), or an uphill grade is encountered, the power train seems to stop working fully and forward progress is slowed or even stopped. The engine RPM doesn't change or decrease significantly, and if I give it some more throttle it will usually start regaining traction and eventually take off again. I first noticed it while bush hogging some pretty thick and tall fescue. I thought it was my mower simply having difficulty keeping up at the speed I was mowing. I dropped to a lower gear, and while it improved slightly, it still just didn't seem to perform like it always has. Then, when I dropped the mower and began some other general work with the bucket and front end loader, I experienced the same seemingly reduced performance. I don't know what symptoms a "slipping clutch" would produce, but that's the only thought I have. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I'm also new to Tractor Forum, so if there is a better way to use this forum for this purpose, please advise.
Desperado Farmer


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Welcome to the forum Desperado Farmer! It sounds like a slipping clutch / out of adjustment issue. We have some superb mechanics here that likely would be able to help you further. Hopefully it's just a matter of adjustment though. (Cheap fix)


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

While I agree your description would indicate clutch slippage, my guess is you're already past the point of a "(cheap fix)". Yes, that is the first step, and certainly worth a try, but when you mention the problem has been ongoing, and your solution thus far has been to drop a gear (instead of adjusting the clutch) I have to suspect that action has taken a good portion of life out of the clutch. I'm also guessing that you're not sure what/where the clutch adjustment is on your tractor. I'm not sure I've ever made that adjustment on your model tractor but I suspect it would involve items 29 and 30 on this diagram.
https://partstore.agriculture.newho...mentNL/parts-search.html#epc::mr48151ar397815

I'm guessing the clevis pin will be under duress now, and won't come out without a fight, but once out and the clevis is threaded off a few turns you should gain enough slack to allow some pedal free play. At that point you can test it again and see if you actually have any clutch left.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

Fedup said:


> While I agree your description would indicate clutch slippage, my guess is you're already past the point of a "(cheap fix)". Yes, that is the first step, and certainly worth a try, but when you mention the problem has been ongoing, and your solution thus far has been to drop a gear (instead of adjusting the clutch) I have to suspect that action has taken a good portion of life out of the clutch. I'm also guessing that you're not sure what/where the clutch adjustment is on your tractor. I'm not sure I've ever made that adjustment on your model tractor but I suspect it would involve items 29 and 30 on this diagram.
> https://partstore.agriculture.newho...mentNL/parts-search.html#epc::mr48151ar397815
> 
> I'm guessing the clevis pin will be under duress now, and won't come out without a fight, but once out and the clevis is threaded off a few turns you should gain enough slack to allow some pedal free play. At that point you can test it again and see if you actually have any clutch left.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

Dear Fed Up:
Thank you for your kind and very helpful reply. You are right in your guess that I had no earthly idea how to make the adjustment, so your information is enormously helpful. I don't have a lot of experience, but I'm willing to turn a wrench. I keep the tractor at our property that is somewhat remote and without suitable environment in which to work, so it will be after the holidays before I can haul it to town and my workshop. Thank you once again, and if you don't mind, I will probably seek your input going forward. I hope you have a very merry Christmas.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Adjustment SHOULD take only ten or twenty minutes, probably less. Hardly worth hauling the tractor down off the mountain for that. Once the adjustment has been made you can decide from there.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

Fedup said:


> Adjustment SHOULD take only ten or twenty minutes, probably less. Hardly worth hauling the tractor down off the mountain for that. Once the adjustment has been made you can decide from there.


Thanks, Fed Up, I'm going out there today, so I'll eyeball it.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

Fedup said:


> Adjustment SHOULD take only ten or twenty minutes, probably less. Hardly worth hauling the tractor down off the mountain for that. Once the adjustment has been made you can decide from there.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

Dear Fedup:
I'm lousy at computers too. I hope I got a picture attached to this. Here's my question: Am I pulling the cotter pin and removing the clevis pin then adjusting the nut at the back of the clevis? There are two nuts- inside and outside. I'm guessing loosen the outside nut first then turn the clevis. how in the world do I get to the inside nut?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

You're right in your assumption. The reason for the second nut is because they were too cheap to use a threaded clevis. The nut on the inside is taking the strain and doing the work. Get the pin out, loosen the back nut, then unscrew the clevis (along with the inside nut) a few turns and see if that gives some pedal free play. Then see if it helps with the clutch slipping.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

Fedup said:


> You're right in your assumption. The reason for the second nut is because they were too cheap to use a threaded clevis. The nut on the inside is taking the strain and doing the work. Get the pin out, loosen the back nut, then unscrew the clevis (along with the inside nut) a few turns and see if that gives some pedal free play. Then see if it helps with the clutch slipping.


Thanks! It will be a few more days before my next assault. I'll check back.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

So I ended up bringing the tractor into town and my heated shop. I went ahead and pulled the frame rail holding the step because it is in my way preventing me good access to the clevis and pin. I'm a little nervous about releasing that spring from the clevis pin. What is the best way to do that, and will it be difficult to re-attach?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Shouldn't be necessary to fool with the spring. Just worry about getting the clevis pin out. It's under load right now and will be tight. Once it's out and the clevis is threaded out a few turns the pin will fit freely. I generally try to get a grip on the head of the pin with vise grips, then pull on the pin while turning it. Usually works for me.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

The tension spring is fitted into the end of the clevis mate, so the spring has to be removed.
Desprado what is the other end of the rod like ?, surely the rod should rotate once you have the clamp nut loosened at the hitch.

Can you attach another photo of the clutch end of the rod.

If you have to go to that much trouble to adjust the clutch, something is wrong, and to remove and replace that spring will take super human effort.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

Fed Up:
Once I re-read your earlier instructions, got the torsion rail and step out of the way so I could see all better, I realized I was looking at the wrong clevis assembly. I was able to get a pair of vise grips on it and work it out. Not much space to work in. I'm not sure how I'm going to get that clevis to turn, or what I'm going to be able (tool) to use to do it. I shot some penetrating oil on it for tonight to think it over. I may try and get a picture tomorrow to show you what I'm up against when I say "not much space to work in". As always, any suggestions are welcome.


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

FredM said:


> The tension spring is fitted into the end of the clevis mate, so the spring has to be removed.
> Desprado what is the other end of the rod like ?, surely the rod should rotate once you have the clamp nut loosened at the hitch.
> 
> Can you attach another photo of the clutch end of the rod.
> ...


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## Desperado Farmer (Sep 2, 2018)

I got the clevis pin out, now trying to figure out how to back the clevis off a few threads. Tight quarters. Thanks for the ideas.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Guess I didn't pay enough attention to your photo. Don't think I've seen many return springs mounted that way. If it were me I wouldn't put it back that way. I'd put the pin in from the other direction, then try to hook the spring over the head of the pin and not through one of the cotter pin holes. I doubt it would ever jump off.


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