# International 3400A Progress



## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Well, I keep taking things apart and finding thing wrong, which is about par for the course with an older machine. Lots of hands have been in there. I could benefit from a better book than I have but I"m not sure which one.

I water blasted it over the past couple of days and am pleased enough to get a little paint in a few places. My wife and I went out and picked a color that was not too yellow and it looks pretty good. Mechanically, I have much to do.

I am rewiring and have installed a Delco alternator with the internal voltage regulator. I used this on another tractor I fixed up and it worked great. I need a few items to get started. I removed the lights and I plan on getting them working as well. I cut and removed every wire on the tractor dash and it started right up so... I'm happy to have a starting point.

I removed the brake levers to test/check the master cylinders. I have very little brake on the right side and have to pump it to have anything at all. On the left side there is NOTHING. After inspecting the internals of the master cylinders, I'd like to replace the seals. The bores look great. I also took the equalizing valve apart, it looks good as well. I hope I don't have to get at the discs. That is a major job but.... sobeit if I have to. The fluid looked very bad, milky. I plan to drain and flush the hydraulics when I get the work done I want.

I will need to repair the swing cylinder because it is leaking from the top section. This will be interesting. I also want to rebuild a couple of other cylinders but first things first. Of couse I need a few hoses replaced.

This is my home project and I don't plan on doing any paying work with it. I just like things to work like they are suppose to. I"m a machinist so most of this isn't a big deal.

Here are a couple of pictures or three.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Here are some pics of my clean up and purty up stuff. I know I'm going overboard but I had some purple paint from my racebike and.... may as well go purple and gold for LSU. LOL Only a small amount of purple though.


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## BelarusBulldog (Feb 19, 2011)

Looks good! Hope you keep posting pictures of your progress, as you repair and repaint your machine. Bye


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

I spent most of the day getting a few parts, and some paint, I had to reclear the LSU purple or as it says Ford Midnight Blue or whatever. I did a whole bunch of sanding, ROPS Top to bottom, floor/deck, hood, under the dash (part of my wiring prep). It's pretty cool when you come across the exact paint you need in your shop, brand new gallon of primer.  I preped and painted everything I sanded today, even the hood is primed and... I even found a new gallon of really good white industrial paint on my trash pile. I thinned it up and made a good quart which is all I need. I did a test spot to make sure it gets hard and looks good. I don't understand why the hood is white. I am a little leary about the glare coming off the hood on a bright day (I'm thinking this white is more a satin, we'll see tomorrow) . I have a nice dull silver metallic and a really good looking black metallic but black is hot.

I ordered some new flood lights and a couple of instrument panel lights. I'm getting anal with this but, while I'm wiring, I may as well have a little fun with it. Nope, no stereo. LOL

Also, I disassembled the Loader linkage which is very loose. Found the problem, Heim Joints are extremely worn. I will get the slack out of them, how will be the question. The male part is welded into the swivel joint which... Is not really a problem. I know I can buy new heim joints. Getting the slack out of everything is going to be interesting...well, not everything and not all the slack.  But making it better.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Hmmmm... I'm gonna have to keep coming here to look at the pictures. I was gonna say I'm going nowhere but, I guess I am after seeing where I been. I put some yellow on the cab area and am about 3/4 done with that. After I get it cleaned and painted, I can begin wiring and installing the panels, lights and gauges. I'm focusing on the Cab area till I get that looking a little more friendly and functional. I am having a good time with it, but I got rained out this past weekend.

If I keep this up, I'm gonna be reluctant to get it dirty. Gonna be like a Harley, don't ride if it's raining. 

I'm taking my race bikes to the track this weekend so the tractor will be on the side burner.I can't wait to just sit out there and tinker with it for hours on end, in the shade, in the later afternoon with the sun going down over the trees and a nice breeze blowin with a little music on the radio, the occasional drone of the air compressor..... ahhhhhh... Life is good. (Wow this is good stuff !!)


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Well, I've been on hold lately. Got my bikes ready for the race track and have been working on them in addition to other duties. I retired from my job, voluntarily... LOL so now I have some time to Git R Done. The radiator neck was almost in 2 pieces, I vowed to make those repairs on my my own... LOL. You know experiment with only the stuff I had in the shop. Had some issues but many leaks later it tested good. I pulled the hydraulc oil cooler and am cleaning the front end of the tractor, and replacing a couple of lines to the cooler. I am resisting the urge to replace all the hose clamps and radiator hoses, they are not really bad.

I cleaned the front end up again with the hydro blaster. Of course the exhaust is cracked, LOL, something else for me to do before I put the hood back on. Should be interesting as well. I actually have a decent handle on things but have not progressed at all with my original repair list. I'll get there. I seem to be starting at the front for some reason.

My next trick, after I get the engine stuff like I want it, will be to wire the gauges, alternator, and lights and.... install all that. Then, I'll test operation, make sure all that works then.... the hydraulic system and linkages will be on the list. I am doing more than I anticipated but I believe mechanical equipment should work as well as possible without buying new stuff. Much of what I am doing has not cost much at all, just some mechanical ingenuity and materials I already have.

This thing has got to be worth at least $11.00 more than what I paid for it.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Progress slowed.  Finding issues with stripped threads, modifying the muffler for an additional bracket. Did a little more disassembly to drill a mounting hole, ended up with a can of aircraft remover on the air filter housing, then the air duct hoses that were painted yellow as well. I'm tidying up as I go. My welding skillz are improving. Much more and I'll have to get some new wire for the MIG.

Hey, the air filter I purchased from NAPA looks like it's gonna fit so that's cool !!


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Made my BIG decision. Gonna replace the clutch and have a look at the shaft. I know the seal is leaking. I figured since I have the radiator basically off and muffler, intake air system removed, why not just go ahead and pull the engine. Problem is, the tractor is not in a place where I can get around the engine with a nice lift so.... I've been pondering on what to do and... I got off my lazy butt yesterday. 

I do have to resist the temptation to rebuild parts of the engine but since I don't have plans to remove the engine totally that might be enough to stay my curiosity and natural urge to make it better. 

I ended up using some material I have around the house, H-Beam some tubing and fashioned a monorail over the engine compartment. That way I will be able to lift the engine and move it front to back which should make lining things up more friendly. I even mused that I could leave my contraption on there but I'd have to modify it and that ain't me.

I'll probably pull the engine out of the way by the end of the week and see what it needs. I hope the trans shaft seal area is not damaged but... I am a machinist and am fairly creative.... less leaks are good. 

a few pictures of my monorail, one of the engine top, and the other... well... I painted the cab area last month, figured since I have all they brake parts, levers and electrical stuff removed, it would be a good Idea to seize the moment and GET R DONE.

My your affairs be productive !! Take Care


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Pulled the engine, got a look at the transmission. Changing out the clutch, transmission shaft seal, and probably the front bearing on the transmission. This would have been a little easier with a book  I'm ordering one. Hopefully this is as deep as I need to go. Here are a few pictures.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

The 3 lip seals on the front of the transmission were a real pain in the butt to identify, the bearing also. I thought that numbers would be good being they were identifiable and readable. I have extensive resources for these kinds of parts. I could not believe, I had to measure evey aspect of these things, mic all the bores and shafts to get the proper numbers, even the Hoffman bearing.

I am about to take a ride to pick up the parts. Looks like everything has arrived I ordered 2 of everything including the o-rings.

TRANSMISSION SHAFT SEALS AND BEARING

CR 382230 R91 ( 2.000" OD, 1.182" Shaft size, .250" Wide) Metric ( CR 11801)

398321-R91, also numbers 14938 stenciled on the seal (2.253" housing bore, 1.500" shaft size, .321" Wide) (14938 identified the proper part)

No numbers on seal, (2.253" housing bore, 1.630" Shaft diameter, .317" Wide)________ I'll add this number in later on.

CLUTCH – 11”, 10 splines on pressure plate, 10 splines on clutch disc

Bearing for transmission input shaft - Hoffman number 145KR.
Looks to me like a 209 single row deep groove standard bearing with a snap ring groove on the outside diameter. Measurements are:
OD = 3.346”
ID = 1.772”
Width = .750”

O-Ring on Face of housing cover to transmission. (ID 3.795”, OD 4.110”, Depth of counterbore for O-ring .090”) Matches up to a # 240 O-ring

O-ring on housing bore to seal transmission (Groove ID 5.344”, OD of housing female part 5.600”, Depth of Groove .122”, Width of Groove .170”) Matches up to #253 O-ring


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## 2jdeeres (Apr 14, 2010)

Keep up the great work Gene!!


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

2jdeeres said:


> Keep up the great work Gene!!


LOL Wish I could say I'm going back with everything but I pulled the shifter levers off the shaft and am replacing the bearings. 1" x 7/8" . I want to tighten up the looseness and flop around. I'm gonna cut a snap ring groove with a hack saw for my next trick.  They had a washer welded on the end of the shaft. I'm actually having fun.

Gonna work on the transmission tomorrow. Something about installing the engine and working through the access port in the bottom of the transmission. I don't see why I need to but I'll keep an open mind. 

I can't wait till I can start it from the CAB. Then, get the gauges and lights working.... then.... and then..... Perhaps I'll learn how to operate it. 

Thanks for the support.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Well, while I was cleaning the clutch housing up making ready for reassembly, amid the sprinking rain... I decided to remove the cover on the IPTO shaft under the transmission shaft. I told my wife, I'm gonna regret this.  I pulled the cover which had a gasket on it and the bearing looked OK. I did not like the amount of thrust movement so I'll use a smaller gasket but I am concerned that there is nothing holding the bearing in position as tightly as it should. I may machine a spacer or modify the cover. We'll see. No worries on that.

I felt it would have been foolish, not to look as I am doing my best to eliminate any leaks in that area, not to mention, checking the bearing. I drained the transmission fluid. No telling how long it has been since anyone has done that. Flashlight shows milky oil on allot of the surfaces. I'm debating pulling the trans cover and doing some cleaning.

Where's a good place to get the oil? I priced $39.00 for 5 gallons... I'm gonna need allot. 

Take Care,
Gene


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## profnohair (Jun 3, 2012)

Bet you never got much done today with all of this rain we are getting. Glad to see a local guy doing a project on here.

Profnohair


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

profnohair said:


> Bet you never got much done today with all of this rain we are getting. Glad to see a local guy doing a project on here.
> 
> Profnohair


You're right, I didn't do anything on the tractor even though, I could have done a few things in the shop and dodged the rain as well. I figured what they hey, it's Sunday and Chick-Fil-A is closed  Why can't I do the same.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Finally, I was able to find master cylinder rebuild kits for my brakes. Unbelievable !!! Hope they work. The numbers match....looks like were a GO ! or a Stop ! LOL

Part number 3125824R1. Whoooooeeee !! Another milestone in the Quest for stoppage.

Here is a list of tractors and numbers that part fits.

Case/IH
2400, 248, 2500, 258, 268, 278, 385, 454, 464, 474, 475, 484, 485, 574, 584, 585, 674, 684, 685, 784, 785, 884, 885, H84
OEM Number: 
Case/IH
1500537C91, 527542R91 (this is the part number for my 3400A), 527542R92 (this is the part number they were able to match), 536926R91

Matbro
P15739

Manitou
130318

I'm not saything this is gonna fix my brakes but it's allot cheaper than (2) $300 master cylinders to find out. LOL

Take Care,
Gene

Good Luck with your stuff.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Got the engine in there, clutch changed and allot of issues tidyed up. I had to grind the starter bolt holes out so I could get the bolts in there properly, then I had to grind the starter housing for additional clearance because it was too close to the flywheel for me. No wonder the bolt threads were smashed. I had the started checked, it was AOK.

I cut bolts I had to get the correct length, I figured what the hey, save a few dollars and make some headway. I'm waiting on my engine manual $130.00, I need to set the valves. I was thinking of sending the injectors out for cleaning.

I am trying to decide on how to flush the hydraulic system. I think this will be impossible until I get everything working. Then I"ll run the hell out of it, THEN drain it, change the filter and so forth. I"m sure it's been years and years with the fluid that is in there or was in there.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

The engine was not supported by "anything". No brackets or mounts from the back wheels to the front of the tractor. Unbelievable. I machined a new pin up front, pulled the old one out of the front end and made it long enough to engage the front engine mount and radiator mount frame.

Then I welded some pads onto the radiator to get the proper spacing with out washers. I'll put some 1/4" rubber underneath for a little shock padding, mount the oil cooler and move on to the next opportunity.

The starter was rubbing on the engine, I opened up the holes so it would rotate and get the solenoid away from the engine housing, then I had to trim the starter housing to give it some clearance it being too close to the flywheel teeth for me. I had the starter checked out by an guy that knows his stuff. He said it was AOK. It sure had some stress on it, being jammed agains the engine. This thing might fly one day.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Master Cylinder kits came in today, D-179 engine repair manual came in today as well. Movin forward.


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## profnohair (Jun 3, 2012)

Stay safe from TS Isaac. I'm just bunkering down in Slidell. I'm glad it is no Katrina. I was in Chalmette for that one and had 15 feet of water in my house.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Generator on line. We stayed here for Katrina. This damn thing is doing a hell of allot of damage. Unbelievable and it won't move. Stay safe yourself !!


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

OK well, Isaac is gone, yard is cleaned up. Still need to do some trimming and sprucing up that we missed during the storm. 

Changed the oil, assembled the radiator, hoses, did some work tidying up the lines and replaced a bushing in the throttle linkage. Allot of litting things, along with some painting.

I wanted to get the old fuel out of the tank. I thought I saw some rust so I pulled the tank and cut a hole in it. PUlled a gallon of rocks and a little dirt out of the tank. Top and sides looke good, a little corrosion on the bottom. I'm gonna clean it up real good and reinstall it without coating anything This is the kind of stuff I run into. Glad it is nothing real bad but for sure, I'm doing some good stuff that could have bit me in the butt. I like doin it up rite !!

I am also beginning to rewire the tractor so I am getting to the middle section. Still have plenty to do but at least parts are going back on instead of coming off. With the exception of the fuel tank. LOL

Happy trails,


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Well, my patch ain't purty but I had to get into the tank and get the rocks and dirt out. I did a pressure test, no bubbles so I guess it'll be OK. The step was destroyed so after I repaired the step on the other side I copied it but, determined to use what I had on hand.... I cut some grating and made it fit. 

I plan on mounting the tank tomorrow and figuring how I'm gonna run the fuel line to keep it from damage when the going gets rough. Apparently that happens judging by the underside of this thing.

I'm really getting a kick out of my meticulous nature with this thing. I like doing things once but I am definitely tanking it futher than normal. I've been having this thing since May and I have yet to complete on repair I knew it needed when I got it home.. I keep finding more stuff as I go. Of course I'm cleaning and painting as I go so that kinda slows things down a good bit.

Next on the list, fuel system, engine controls, wiring (I have a good bit of that done already) then the brakes and dash. Hmmm.... I'll have to rethink My time frame.

And the beat goes on.....


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Installed the seal kits in the Master Cylinders. I have the part numbers to the kits and the place I purchased them from. Took me a long long time and allot of searching for them. About 2 months off and on, calls, internet, forums..... Finally... There in there. Tomorrow, I'm gonna see If can mount the brakes, connect the clutch and gears shifts without reassembling all the plates. I have a little wiring to do before I try to start it up. This is gonna be very interesting for sure.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Whew !! By the hardest, got it back running again. Now I can work on the brakes, fix a few leaks, replace some hoses do some tidying up.... Still have a good bit of work to do but at least I can count what needs to be fixed now. I'm tired....


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## profnohair (Jun 3, 2012)

etemplet said:


> Whew !! By the hardest, got it back running again. Now I can work on the brakes, fix a few leaks, replace some hoses do some tidying up.... Still have a good bit of work to do but at least I can count what needs to be fixed now. I'm tired....


Don't you hate it when you know it was running before you "worked" on it and then it don't want to start after.

I had a mower do the same thing to me today. Shot it with starting fluid and started right up and never gave me another problem starting after that. Must not have been getting gas fast enough for me.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

profnohair said:


> Don't you hate it when you know it was running before you "worked" on it and then it don't want to start after.
> 
> I had a mower do the same thing to me today. Shot it with starting fluid and started right up and never gave me another problem starting after that. Must not have been getting gas fast enough for me.


LOL yea for sure. I didn't have engine problems, thank God. Enough everywhere else. I had to pull the engine to get at the transmission seals and clutch. Yesterday was the day I primed the system and bled the injectors. It started up with no hassle at all, easier than I expected after changing the filters, replacing fuel lines, repairing the fuel tank and it sitting for so long.

My one suggestion on tools to own.... a MITEY VAC hand vacuum pump. Unbelievable how handy that little thing is and how much frustration it can save you. I don't even put fuel in my filter when I change it on the VW Diesel. I install the filter, pull a vacuum with the little pump and draw fuel through the system. never fails to start RIGHT up each time. I use it for brakes as well. Cool tool.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Oh Yea.... Did some tweaking on the front end loader valve linkage, was able to find some new ball joints at NAPA, they actually worked. Did some grinding and fittin and bending but... got it all lookin good werking too. I started it up and dug up that lil tree that has been buggin me. No deck, no seat...I drove sitting on the fender. LOL I still have allot to do but it sure is nice having a little closure on all the stuff I did.

May your week be fruitful and productive.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Well, had an interesting time finding the lead in the valve bank for the backhoe. Found it and got real creative on the access, ultra lucky on the repair needed too. I drilled some holes in the mounting plate, completed the cut out with a die grinder. Replace an O-ring and one HELLA big leak... fixed.

I did more cleaning and checking, my wife gave me a hand mounting the hood. Dang that thing is heavy... I hate that thing. Did some painting and prep to remount the floor panels, touch up. At least the jobs are getting smaller, thank goodness. remember I didn't say easier, just smaller. I'm in the TWEAK mode. Getting stuff to fit and work like it is suppose to.

I might replace the steering wheel with one of those custom car types. The one I have is....ugly. I'm gonna machine some nice looking shift knobs and such Unless I find a site that sells some.

The saga continues.....


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Oh yea, got the right brake kicking really good. The left brake won't build pressure. I just rebuilt the master cylinders and checked all that stuff. There is an issue with the piston or o-rings....something is leaking. I'm gonna table the brakes for a while but I'll keep my eyes and ears open on any repairs that can be made without pulling half the backhoe apart.


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## TucsonJim (Aug 12, 2012)

*alternator wirelist?*

I have an old Case 530 that needs to be rewired. It too has an alternator with internal regulator. Can you tell me how it's wired? Also, how is the ammeter wired with an alternator. Would you be able to provide me with a FROM/TO wirelist for these wires? Thanks.
Jim


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Hi Jim,
I have found better sources but I saved this one so...it is the one I used for information. I am no electrician and I hope someone that is more familiar with this stuff posts up to help out. I used the "red" light between the #1 Alternator wire and the key switch (this is suppose to help the alternator excite and produce electricity more reliably). You'll need a block resistor for the wire going to your coil (if your tractor is gas) the 12 volts will fry the points if not. It is simple enough. My problem is that my light is staying ON. I'm sure I'm backfeeding something but I have so much stuff to fix it's just not on my list at the moment.

http://www.myfordtractors.com/delco.shtml

Good Luck with it,
Gene


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## Rusty (Jun 15, 2011)

Is that a motorcycle I see in the barn?


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Rusty said:


> Is that a motorcycle I see in the barn?


You have a keen eye my man. The contents of the shop is a well guarded secret and the bikes have not been getting the attention I like to give them because of the Backhoe but finally, yesterday I mounted the decking and the seat and... drove it to a different location, not far away.
Oh yea, I got the motorcycle lift yesterday so the backhoe definitely had to move away from the door. I'm not finished setting it up but am excited about not bending over so much. The lift will also expand and fit the Snapper Zero Turn.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

I guess I am going install a larger fuel valve and flush the fuel system, tighten up a couple of very slight leaks. Either I have a restriction, line/filter issues or something is wrong with the charge pump. I don't think it is the latter because when first started the engine runs fine with plenty of power. As I work it, only a few minutes, (about 5 minutes or so) the engine speed comes down and it will not accelerate.

1st. I am going to add 5 gallons of fuel to see if that helps get fuel to the charge pump.

2nd - replace the needle valve I installed as a shut off valve for the fuel. Establish copious fuel flow (check filter housings to insure they are clear, and tighten a couple fittings.

3rd - Check vacuum pressure on the charge pump. (This might be good to check first as it would identify any fuel flow restriction and be an indicator as to pump performance.)

4th - Let the engine heat up, remove the valve cover and check the valve clearance. 

That oughta keep me kinda busy for a few. 

NOTE: The book says some tractors have a "lift pump" for fuel tanks that are installed below the injector pump. This fuel line goes through 2 filters and probably 8 feet of line before it gets to the charge up which is "above the injector pump. Still, if the charge pump pulls vacuum, the fuel should show up. We'll see.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Wow, didn't realize I hadn't posted up my progress. I began checking fuel flow, removing fuel lines and disassembling the the primary filter and cleaning it. All looked good but when I got to the line from the tank to the primary I got air flow but it seemed to be restricted. Then.... a piece of something blew out and stung my hand. I knew right away that was the problem. No more fuel issues, runs great. That fix did not cost anything but time. I'm still tweaking allot of stuff on there. I made a few upgrades on the rear control levers, drilling and installing grease fittings for the linkages.

I managed to fix a really large flow leak with a little creativity and a new O-ring which I had in the shop. I have allot of parts and pieces.  I rarely have to leave to get anything.

Now then.... the swing cylinder leak. Man O Man..... can't get a break. It took all of my machinist skillz and a bit of luck to get the bushing out of there. As I work on this thing it is easy to see the thought process that lead the owner/mechanics to make the decisions they made. This is no exception. Anyway, I have to thoroughly inspect the components to determine the leak source and cause. Visually, it does not LOOK that bad but.... there are some wear areas. I might be able to match everything up and get a good seal but I am interested in a long term repair no band aids.

As I have stated, I am a machinist so I can machine a new bushing or put a bushing in a bushing and cut another o-ring groove just to have a little added protection. SWING CYLINDER REPAIR, ENGAGED. LOL I really want to rebuild the whole section, replace all the o-rings and pistion rings. This is not a straight forward repair. There are serious issues with the bushing and shaft but.... if it still works OK, I don't see any reason not to put it back together as is. Looks like some abrasive material got in there at some point, probaby through a bad lip seal and just ground the fit on the bushing and the shaft. 

Then... then.... I'll change a few hoses and continue with my tweaking process.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

GOT R DID !! Swing cylinder leak repair is Complete !! I put in another o-ring groove on the Outside diameter of the bushing, machined about .004" off the OD so It would fit better, machined a new pin/bolt so it would lock the bushhing like it was designed to do, I did some measuring and insured the O-ring was positioned the best it could be to seal the shaft. I had to maching a new lip seal fit at the top as I could not find the proper lip seal. It was very nice to start her up and operate the hoe for a few minutes and NO MORE LEAK !! Good stuff !!! I'll move onto the smaller stuff now.  I still have some tweaking to do but it is getting better and better.


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## BelarusBulldog (Feb 19, 2011)

I have been following along with your progress, and I must say, you are doing a remarkable job restoring that machine. Can't wait to see the project completed.  Keep up the great work. Bye


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## Rusty (Jun 15, 2011)

I just bought a similar motorcycle lift and cant wait to use it. What kind of machines do you have access to? Really nice CNC stuff I,ll bet, I'm looking into finding an old bridgport mill, and a cheap lathe/ screw machine once I finish putting my shop togerher I learned on the older non cumputer machines years ago and would like to be able to make custom parts for my scooters.Your'e doing an amazing job on that back hoe, it'll be one great back saving tool when finished keep up the good work.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

BelarusBulldog said:


> I have been following along with your progress, and I must say, you are doing a remarkable job restoring that machine. Can't wait to see the project completed.  Keep up the great work. Bye


Thanks. I"m afraid it's not going to look any better than a nice machine. Hopefully it is about 15 years younger and at least it works respectably. Say it walks a little taller and with a swagger.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Rusty said:


> I just bought a similar motorcycle lift and cant wait to use it. What kind of machines do you have access to? Really nice CNC stuff I,ll bet, I'm looking into finding an old bridgport mill, and a cheap lathe/ screw machine once I finish putting my shop togerher I learned on the older non cumputer machines years ago and would like to be able to make custom parts for my scooters.Your'e doing an amazing job on that back hoe, it'll be one great back saving tool when finished keep up the good work.


Thanks Rusty,
My lathe is an old American Pacemaker. If forget the date. Perhaps 1950s model. I'm an old school machinist and have never run the computer stuff. I don't like making allot of the same parts, I like fixing stuff, "resurrecting"... Saving people money and me as well. I make a new part only when I have to. I only have the lathe but I am very very creative, which is a necessity for any machinist. I have allot of tools, hand tools, I get R done for sure.

This machine is really impressive as to what it can do. I'm likin it !!

As for the Lift, I have my SV650 on that at the moment. Man is it schweet !! No more bending over.  I also have the side extensions so I can put the Zero Turn on there also. This thing is WELL MADE and strong.


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## phoebe2007 (Jun 2, 2013)

Gene,
I have a 1974 3400A backhoe which developed hydraulic problems via the loss of boom/dipstick and stabilizer bar functions and a slow, almost powerless front bucket. Had a mechanic diagnose a bad rear pump seal which he replaced along with a rebuilt pump. He also freed up a frozen check valve in the master manifold bar. There he found some metal shavings in the line feeding into the stuck check valve. No damage, other than with the seals were found to the rear pump. Initially, we thought that possibly the metal shaving came from the old pump but after inspection nothing was found. With the replaced pump, the boom/dipstick and stabilizers now work fine. However,the boom swing and power steering functions now are not working. I had another mechanic tell me that the problem may be with a priority valve which drives both boom swing and power steering. He was kind enough to freely provide this information after the first guy walked off the job out of frustration but was not willing to take on the repair. In looking over the hydraulic systems schematic I discovered that the current problem could also be with the front pump which supplies fluid to the boom and power steering. Though, it seems odd that both rear and front pumps would go bad at the same time. Any thoughts????
Jim


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Jim, did you get this fixed? If so, what was the problem ??

Sorry I did not see your post till today. I need to subscribe to these threads. I am not too hip on the hydraulics for these things. I hope I NEVER have to be. Ha ha. I have a few books on the machine which help. I could probably spend a little time with my own valves and system but I'm of the opinion and experience, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." LOL

Also Jim, from my book there are so many tests and test equipment needed to check the systems I tend to just hope mine does not give me trouble. What really scares the hell out of me is the bank of valves on the rear of the machine !! LOL I thought I'd have to remove the bank to fix a leak but I found a way around it. (McGuyver style) If it were me, I'd check to make sure you have flow to the section that is not working and follow that back to each point. The fact that you had metal in there may have plugged a port or is causing a malfunction. I have been lucky that my problems have been cheap to fix. you could have a bad oring.

I don't believe 2 pumps would go out at the same time either.

Good Luck !
Gene


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## orange (Mar 30, 2015)

thanks for the pics , my question was how did you took the spring of the retainer to replace the seal . in the pic you can see the spring is in between the piston and the tail seal? thanks again for the pics . the last pic.


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## etemplet (May 6, 2012)

Like I said, It has been a few years but if I remember correctly, the spring retainer must be pushed toward the piston to collapse the spring, then the rod inside needs to be positioned in the slot so that they rod may be removed freeing the spring for removal. Hope this helps. It has been a long time and lots of mechanical stuff in between.

I don't recall it being very difficult after you see how it is attached. The real key is making sure the filter in the line is in place and the ports are covered and uncovered by piston action


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