# Ford 1500 Hydraulic Issues



## rlt0698 (Jun 5, 2015)

I have a 1979 Ford 1500 compact tractor. I had very little or slow hydraulic motion so and I was able to find the only new pump in existence and replaced it. It cured my slow motion problem. I had a backhoe attachment on and that seemed to work fine. Then my problems escalated. . . The bucket valve was leaking so I had it rebuilt. It was pressure tested and it did not leak (on the bench). Reinstalled it and it began leaking again within and hour of use. Took it back and they found the spacer/retainer plate on the bypass valve was warped. They flattened it and sent me on my way. It didn't leak right away but it did start again. I didn't have this problem until I used my tiller for the first time (prior to rebuilding the valve). I tilled the garden for about three hours and it began to leak. I had the valve rebuilt and tilled for another hour before it started to leak again. The three point started "shimmying" when it is raised. Also, the bucket will not work (most of the time) when the three point is up. I have to lower the three point then raise or lower the bucket. Is there a part or adjustment on the tractor that I am not aware of? I am frustrated at this point, because of the leak I cannot use the tractor and I don't know why the three point is acting up. Any help would be appreciated. Anyone have access to a Shop Manual?


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy rlt0698,

Welcome back! 

You may be running out of hydraulic fluid? On a regular tractor, you fill the hydraulic reservoir with the lift in the raised position. Since you also have a loader, I would raise it at least to where you normally carry it, and with the lift up, fill the reservoir. I'm don't know how much reservoir capacity you have, but you must have sufficient volume in the reservoir to raise the lift and loader full up at the same time.

Then you have a backhoe sucking fluid out of the same reservoir?

Some of the guys here should be able to guide you regarding the fill procedure for your reservoir. An owner-operators manual should cover the correct procedure for filling the reservoir with a loader attached.

Incidentally, you can get an owner-operators manual ($25) and an I&T shop manual ($30) on ebay. I recommend that you get both.

Sounds like your loader valve may be beyond repair. Take a look at Prince loader valves. They are good quality valves and not too expensive. They have to be sized to your hydraulic pump output GPM.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Regarding your concern about air leaks in the hydraulic system, see attached parts diagram. When you changed the pump, I presume that you changed the filter (item #14)? You should check the filter to see if it is plugged. 

Another item to check for suction leaks are four O-rings in the suction line (items #23). Replace them. Also inspect the suction line for any evidence of leakage along the entire extent of the line, indicating a hole or crack in line. If oil leaks out, air will enter.

Although it is not shown on the diagram for your tractor, check that there isn't a suction screen mounted in the reservoir suction line attachment point. This screen would be attached to a flange mounted on the side of the reservoir where the suction line attaches.


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## rlt0698 (Jun 5, 2015)

*Ford 1500 Hydraulic problems*

Thanks for your input. I will check the fluid level. The reservoir is the transmission case. I have checked to see that it is full but when it is not under any load. I will try what you have suggested. As for the o-rings I had checked those prior to replacing the pump and they were good. The filter is a steel mesh and can be flushed clean. I have done that (many times). Another problem I have is the filter gets dirty every 4-5 hours of running. It gets dirty enough that everything slows down, that's how I know I need to clean it. I have changed the fluid completely 4 times now but I still get junk in the filter.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

rlt0698,

QUOTE: "Another problem I have is the filter gets dirty every 4-5 hours of running. It gets dirty enough that everything slows down, that's how I know I need to clean it. I have changed the fluid completely 4 times now but I still get junk in the filter." 

You have a major problem here. Something is disintegrating in the system. Are there any metal cuttings in the debris? Can you describe the debris you are cleaning off the screen? This problem has to be resolved.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

The most common thing causing filter/screen plugging is "wet brake" disintegration. Wet brakes are designed to operate submersed in hydraulic fluid, and they work well. BUT, after many years of service they start to disintegrate, and cause this problem. 

I have confirmed that your ford 1500 has dry brakes. Therefore, wet brake disintegration is NOT the problem. 

Are you certain that your tractor is a 1500?


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Your local Ford / New Holland dealership should be able to send out a sample of the debris from your filter/screen to a lab and give you an idea of what the source is.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Regarding your filter/screen plugging problem, I obtained the following comment from a man named *Bern*, who is an expert on these old Ford tractors:

"Brakes are indeed dry. If you have continual plugging of the filter, and it's not metallic, then it about has to be cylinder packing material from the loader or backhoe. Do any cylinders leak down?"

Have you noticed any of your cylinders on loader or backhoe drifting down over time? A simple test would be to raise the loader and let it sit for an hour or two to see if it drifts down.
_________________________________________

I received the following comment from *Sean in PA*, who is also an expert on these old Ford tractors. Sean is the author of the Noveau *******'s Cosmopolitan Workshop for identifying old Ford tractors. Visit his site if you want to identify an old Ford tractor. Here are his comments:

"I don't know anything about those little Shibaura made Fords, but looking at the parts pages for the 1500, there is some sort of clutch on one side of the differential. Maybe the clutch material is what is breaking down and clogging the filter."

That should be the differential lock clutch. Normally a "dog" type clutch (metal to metal) so it should not be your problem.


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