# Finally got to look at my inherited tractor.



## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Good morning everyone. Y'all may not remember me, I joined back in December about how I'm getting my late fathers New Holland tractor. For those reading this that didn't read my intro, the long story made short, my Dad passed in Jan of 2020, I decided to take his New Holland tractor. I posted it in Dec of last year if you're interested in reading it. Instead of updating and reviving my intro thread I decided to start a project thread. After looking at the tractor this weekend it's gonna be a little bit of project.

I was finally able to get up to his place this weekend and was able to get some pictures and really look at it. So here's what I learned. It is a New Holland TC33D. I didn't know if it was a T29 or T33. 

I could've swore he told me it wasn't 4WD, from the best I can tell it is 4WD, it has a control lever with FWD on it. From the video I've seen about the control layout they all say that is used to engage 4wd. If I'm wrong please let me know. I'm an aircraft mechanic by trade and don't have the best hearing, so maybe he said his next tractor wouldn't be 4wd. It doesn't have a mid PTO which I'm on that concerned about that.

After looking it over there are somethings it needs. First I gotta get a new battery for it to get it running. Also I'm going to drain the fuel and put fresh fuel in it. 

So being a new guy to tractors, I have some questions for you more experienced operators. If yall don't mind answering them.

1. Is draining the tank and adding new fuel good enough or should I drain the entire system? i.e. lines, injectors, filter, etc...

2. I noticed I couldn't depress the clutch or brake pedal. Could that be from it sitting 2+ years? And when I get it started and it pressurized it'll be ok? Or do I have a bigger issue in my hands. 

3. It has 1715 hours on it? Is that considered high hours? I don't know the what kind of labor or upkeep the tractor had in those hours. Also I think my dad bought the tractor used and I think it was his project also.

Some things I need to get for it. I need a new front headlight housing assembly for it. You'll see in my next post with the pictures.I need FEL control lever cover, boot and control knob. All new stickers for the control and a really good cleaning.

I apologize for being so long winded. I'll try to figure how to post pictures.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Pictures...


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Good Morning Rhino,

Looks to me like the tractor has been sitting out in the woods for 2-1/2 years and probably much more than that. Clutch pedal and brake pedals rusted to the point you cannot move them? You have a major job ahead.


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## ovrszd (11 mo ago)

Yes, it's FWA (4wd).

I would drain the tank and refill with fresh fuel. I would also change the fuel filter. I would not attempt to flush the injection system unless you are very, very familiar with such a process.

As BigT mentioned, the pedals are probably frozen due to rust problems. Get them freed up before you attempt to start the engine.

1,700 hrs is not excessive. It should handle 4,000 hrs before anything major fails. But then, that's all a guess since we don't know the level of care it's received as mentioned by BigT.

Don't purchase any comfort items such as the things you mentioned until the tractor is operational. First, and only priority right now should be to get it running. Then as you use it you can start making a list of things that need done.

We don't even know if it will run yet. So the fuel issues and a battery would be all I would buy until I hear it run.

Keep us posted on your progress. Thanks for the pics. Pics tell us a lot!!!!


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

Looks like some work involved but I would have kept it too. I'd probably start with getting the controls free'd up. A couple cans of PBblaster to start with. I'd open up the air cleaners and make sure there's no nests in there. If it were me I run the fuel in it unless you think its full of water. I know this might not be the way some do it but diesel injection systems can be a real pain to get bled out I think I'd roll the dice and try to start it as it is if it will run on what's in it I'd run most of it out. Then service the fuel filters and do a full filter and fluids change.


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## TractorErnie (Nov 9, 2020)

1.Check the oil level & see if there is water in it, check the radiator coolant for oil, and the air filter for mice.
2.Spray the clutch linkage and brake connecting rods with oil first and then grease the fittings, then sit on the tractor and try pushing them until they are loose.
3.Check the battery cables and make sure the negative has a good ground and the pos + is tight to the starter and replace the battery.
4. Drain the fuel tank, then loosen the banjo fitting on the injection pump and make sure all the extra fuel runs out.
5.Then pour in the new fuel and change the fuel filter, again open up the banjo fitting so that new fuel flows out into a pan, not on the ground... 😀
6 Then try to start it with the banjo fitting open to clear the lines good, then close the banjo fitting and try to start it, while you pray!
7. Check the hydraulic fluid before you move it.
This is what I would do if it were my tractor.

Oh! did you get a key for it?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Hey TractorErnie. You have new info as requested.


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## TractorErnie (Nov 9, 2020)

If it starts, keep your hand on the key for a quick shutoff if any hydraulic lines are spraying oil on you.
Been there, and got sprayed a few times....


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

@BigT thank you for the reply. My dad kept it outside where it sits now. Not that it matters much now but before he passed, he kept where it sits mowed down and not grown up like it is now. My brother that has been mowing the yard has done a less than stellar job on the yard. He's kind of hit high parts and left the rest of the yard go. But I agree with you I think I have some work a head of me.

@ovrszd Thank you for the reply. Good point on the fuel filter I will change that as well. You're welcome for the pics. Thank you for addressing the hours. I was actually shocked it had that many hours on it. He bought it used because it said so on the back of the keyring. I agree with you, as interested as I am in implements, I want to make sure it's running and safe before I can start using it. I look forward to keeping y'all posted with updates. 

@TractorRookie thank you for your reply and the suggestions of the air filter for nests. I will definitely do that. Also for the suggestion of the PBblaster on the pedals, I will do that next time I'm up there. I didn't get a get chance to check for water in the fuel because we were cleaning his belongings out of his house this past weekend, but that is the first thing I plan on checking on my next trip.

@TractorErnie Those awesome tips. Thank you for the reply. I will definitely try to find that bajo fitting and see what I can do with the fuel. He did put a new Hydro filter on it oct of 2017. I laughed out loud about not putting the gas on the ground. I did get the key for it I thought we had lost it but my middle brother had put it in the door holder in his truck. Also thank you for the advice on keeping my hand on the key when I start. Getting sprayed by Hydro fluid under pressure doesn't sound fun.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Once I get this tractor greased up and running. Should I do anything with shafts of the rams before actuating them seeing as how they were left extended like that?


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

My advise is going to be a bit different then some you have received.
I would give her a bath in PB blaster all the hydraulic cylinders all the controls everything that is supposed to move.
Then I would get the main transmission ( the high/lo range box) into neutral and tow her where ever I was going to work on it.
You mentioned you couldn't move the clutch or brake pedal, is it geared or hydrostatic drive. I didn't notice a clutch pedal in the pics.
I would drain the oil looking for water when the drain plug is first removed.
Then I check out the cooling system and be sure it was still full or at least almost full.
Then check the air filters and intake for debri and dirt.
If that all checks good I'd put fresh oil in it and an oil filter.
Check the transmission level and crack the lowest drain plug loose and carefully loosen it till a bit of fluid leaks out
again looking for water if finding water dump it and refill.
Pull the fuel filter out and cut it open and inspect it.
Depending on how the fuel system is it could be gravity feed or it may have a primer pump or even an electric feed pump.
Depending on that drain the bottom out of the tank again looking for water if none it's a guessing game as to draining all the fuel or adding some fresh,
then getting the new filter primed,.
By that time hopefully the pedals have loosened up and will move.
When trying to start it the first time be sure that your fuel shutoff solenoid is functioning.
And you manual shifted transmission(s) are in neutral.
1700 hours is low hours.


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## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

The only thing that I would add to what has already been said is two things........

1. Sorry for the way that you got this tractor but usually a "free" tractor is well worth the money.....

2. Once you get the fuel system good to go I would add a bottle of injector cleaner/fuel system to the mix.....Something like SeaFoam or Lucas brand......I personally lean toward SeaFoam...










Sea Foam Motor Treatment | Oil & Fuel Additive | For Gas & Diesel


Sea Foam Motor Treatment is a fuel and oil additive that works to clean and lubricate all types of gas and diesel engines. Safe and easy to use!



seafoamworks.com


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

@LouNY thank you for your reply. I believe it is a geared tractor. There is a lever to left of the steering wheel and playing with it, appears to have 3 positions on it. Up, neutral, and down. I would assume that would be forward and reverse. I'm going to get in the manual today and verify. I'm making a shopping list filters and lubes to buy for next time I go up there to start getting it right. I don't know the care and feeding it had with it's first owner or with my dad, but I want to maintain it the best I can while I have it.

@unsquidly thank you for your reply. I agree the price I had to pay sucks, and I'd gladly give the tractor back if it meant I got my dad back, but the tractor is free and I am a total rookie with it. I want to keep it in the best working order condition as possible. I'll add seafoam to the shopping list. 

Thank you again to all who've replied and shared your advice and knowledge with me. I don't feel as lost/blind going into this as I did last week.


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## joninva (Aug 15, 2021)

Check the rods on your loader's hydraulic cylinders. If there is any rust, spray with PB and sand them with emery cloth. 
Hopefully the rodents haven't chewed on any wires, I'd check what I could see of the wires.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

joninva said:


> Check the rods on your loader's hydraulic cylinders. If there is any rust, spray with PB and sand them with emery cloth.
> Hopefully the rodents haven't chewed on any wires, I'd check what I could see of the wires.


Thank you for your reply. The rod end didn't appear to have any rust on them, but when I go back up there I'm gonna look the whole tractor over real good. I thought about the wiring also so I'm gonna look that over as well.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

If you are going to tow it out of the woods, I'd block and secure the boom were it is, then loosen the bucket cylinder fittings and using a chain fall or a come-a-long to roll the bucket up off the ground and secure that as well.
Something to think about.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

pogobill said:


> If you are going to tow it out of the woods, I'd block and secure the boom were it is, then loosen the bucket cylinder fittings and using a chain fall or a come-a-long to roll the bucket up off the ground and secure that as well.
> Something to think about.


Thank you for your reply. That's so funny I was just sitting here looking at the pictures of it and thinking about if I decide to tow it from where it sits how I would go about doing. There is a couple of come-a-long in his shop that I could use if I go that route


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Rhino78 said:


> Thank you for your reply. That's so funny I was just sitting here looking at the pictures of it and thinking about if I decide to tow it from where it sits how I would go about doing. There is a couple of come-a-long in his shop that I could use if I go that route


Just be careful if you do go that route. If you get it running before hand, and the rams aren't all rusted, you could roll the bucket up and drop the boom a little.


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## Jayne (Apr 25, 2014)

Hi *Rhino78*

I do not know this paticular tractor but one of the things I would check before starting is to make sure that the fuel can be turned off, ie the cut off solenoid is actually working, When you have connected the battery make sure the can hear a 'click' in the injector pump. The solenoid controls the injector pump's control rack; turn the key on and the solenoid moves the control rack so that fuel can get into the pump, turn the key off and the control rack moves and cuts off the fuel. It is unlikely that the valve is faulty as it is inside the injector pump but if it is stuck in one position there may be no way to start or turn off the engine. In my Kioti tractor it is called the Engine Stop valve solenoid and is on the back of the injector pump. The other advice you have received sounds good. Good luck with your project.


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## brian BSL (Jan 23, 2021)

joninva said:


> Check the rods on your loader's hydraulic cylinders. If there is any rust, spray with PB and sand them with emery cloth.
> Hopefully the rodents haven't chewed on any wires, I'd check what I could see of the wires.


No, no , no please do not sand the rams, bad!


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## JB Freeman (9 mo ago)

There’s a lot of good help in here for advise on getting your tractor up and running. Sorry to hear how you obtain it but know every time you’ll be using you’ll being thinking of him.


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## Fotoguzzi (Jan 12, 2020)

How far away is “up there”? I want to follow your progress so keep posting info and photos.
I lost my dad in 2020 too and really miss him, he left notes on everything about how to use/operate stuff..my mom is still living at home at 98.
what’s your general location? Maybe a member is nearby and would help you move it..


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## MHarryE (Oct 28, 2011)

Nice tractor for sitting idle in the woods for that long. We have 2 New Hollands that look a lot worse without sitting outside that much, but NH sources from many locations and ours are larger, definitely sourced from different plants. I'm surprised the clutch and brake are rusted solid. Need to get them free first. Fresh fuel sounds like the way to go but draining everything first off can make starting rough, especially if you are not familiar with diesels and working out in the woods. If you drain it down, find info on how to bleed a system (if you can't find your dad's manual, find one somewhere). I would give it a try first but that's me working with 2 relatives and over 30 tractors ranging from over 60 to 3 months. The rock on the rear - it appears to be chained to the upper link but can't see lower. Is it a ballast block? Loader and that rock might dictate you need to get it running before moving it so dragging it to a spot easier to work in might not be an option. From what I see of the cylinder rods exposed, they should not be a problem. Rods are hard chrome plated. My path would be fresh battery, free the pedals, and see if it runs, then go through full maintenance including fluids and filters.


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## Alan Dalton (Apr 9, 2020)

Rhino78 said:


> Pictures...
> 
> View attachment 79268
> 
> ...


Haven't seen this mentioned yet. Gear drive boomers tend to have clutches freeze after sitting for a while. You can depress the clutch pedal but the clutch doesnt disengage. You will know this exists if you cant easily put the tractor in gear. If yours is frozen, first get it running and get the loader working. Then put it in low range, lower the bucket until the front wheels are off the ground, depress the clutch pedal, and force the left hand shift lever into Forward (up). Usually breaks free in a few feet.


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

Alan Dalton said:


> Haven't seen this mentioned yet. Gear drive boomers tend to have clutches freeze after sitting for a while. You can depress the clutch pedal but the clutch doesnt disengage. You will know this exists if you cant easily put the tractor in gear. If yours is frozen, first get it running and get the loader working. Then put it in low range, lower the bucket until the front wheels are off the ground, depress the clutch pedal, and force the left hand shift lever into Forward (up). Usually breaks free in a few feet.


I would not use that method, I much prefer to start it in gear and in one of the higher gears were the brakes have a chance of overpowering the engine to stall it out if need be.
Forcing that shuttle shift into gear with everything turning is a bit rough on things.


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## Alan Dalton (Apr 9, 2020)

LouNY said:


> I would not use that method, I much prefer to start it in gear and in one of the higher gears were the brakes have a chance of overpowering the engine to stall it out if need be.
> Forcing that shuttle shift into gear with everything turning is a bit rough on things.


Curious how one starts a gear drive boomer in gear


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

You could be surprised by what the starter could do.
Myself I'd tow it to start it.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

@Jayne Thank you for the reply! Thank you for the advice. I will make sure that the solenoids are in good working order I'm also going to read up on the solenoids in the manual when I get a chance. I can't express in words and over the internet how thankful I am for all the advice that has been given freely to me. I only hope that one day I can pay it forward to someone that may find their self in a similar situation.

@brian BSL Thank you for the reply, I was just gonna clean them real good and lube them, I was just gonna treat them like we do the landing gear on the airplanes.

@JB Freeman Thank you for your reply. I'd gladly give it back if it meant I got my dad back, but I also know that it would bring him a level of happiness knowing that one of his boys is using it and getting work out of it.

@Fotoguzzi Thank you for your reply. I'm sorry for your loss also, I miss my dad everyday. I live in Northwest Florida, and he lived in Southeast Alabama only about an hour or so from me. My brother-in-law has a truck and trailer that will haul it. I will get with him after I get it running and we'll get it back down here to FL. My dad was a retired Master Sergeant from the Army so he was really organized. I found the operators manual in a plastic box he had. He had notes written in it about the oil filters and hydro filters from where he changed them. I will definitely keep posting updates and more pictures. 

@MHarryE Thank you for your reply. I was looking at the picture just this morning and noticed it was connected to what appears to be a ballast of some sort. I'm figuring it was probably home made with half of a 55gal drum and some concrete because that's how my dad rolled. He once made boat anchors out of coffee cans, U bolts and concrete. So I could see him doing something like that. I found the operators manual and have been flipping through it like a mad man, I want to get back up to his place in a couple of weeks and try to get it started.

@Alan Dalton Thank you for your reply. That could be what has happened from the lack of use I guess. The clutch pedal is in the depressed position, and I think the brake pedals are just frozen. I can move all of the other control levers freely. I for sure I can move the range lever freely because I did a few times. Thank you for that suggestion. I'm hoping some PBblaster and working the pedal can get the clutch and brake pedals in working order. 

@LouNY Thank you again for chiming in again. If for some reason I can't get the pedals freed up I'm going to try your method first and if all else fails try Alan's method and hope everything sorts itself out in the process. Is pull starting a tractor the same process as push starting a pick-up, where you get it rolling and dump the clutch?


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

So after reading more in the operator's manual. That it is a geared tractor a 9x3 is what is referred to and it is a non-synchronized transmission.


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## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

Before doing anything like opening the fuel system, check to make sure there is crankcase oil, cooling water, and diesel in the fuel tank. make sure you have access to the engine air input so it can be blocked off in case of runaway, Install a good battery, and give it a start. (It is truly a diesel I assume). It has a high probability it will start. 

From this point you will determine what to do next.


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## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

brian BSL said:


> No, no , no please do not sand the rams, bad!


I think that the word sand here threw ya off......You are not going to "sand" jack with an emery cloth.....What you will do is rub them down with an emery cloth and remove some if not all of the surface rust and probably not damage the cylinder ram at all......


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## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

And I almost forgot the most important of this whole evolution.......Make sure you have a very good supply of ice cold beer on hand before starting any part of this project and a buddy with you so you have someone to look at and say "Dude, hold my beer" when you get to a point that you are about to do something crazy or less then safe.......LOL.....That is what friends are for.......


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

John Liebermann said:


> Before doing anything like opening the fuel system, check to make sure there is crankcase oil, cooling water, and diesel in the fuel tank. make sure you have access to the engine air input so it can be blocked off in case of runaway, Install a good battery, and give it a start. (It is truly a diesel I assume). It has a high probability it will start.
> 
> From this point you will determine what to do next.


Thank you for your reply. It is a diesel, I was also gonna check the oil, water, Hydro, and hopefully find the bazillion grease fittings new holland put on this tractor.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

unsquidly said:


> And I almost forgot the most important of this whole evolution.......Make sure you have a very good supply of ice cold beer on hand before starting any part of this project and a buddy with you so you have someone to look at and say "Dude, hold my beer" when you get to a point that you are about to do something crazy or less then safe.......LOL.....That is what friends are for.......


Thank you unsquidly. That is a must have and when the gauntlet of hold my beer has been thrown down. Something really amazing or something galactically stupid is about to go down. A story will be born that will last a life time.


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## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

Was going to write this earlier but did not want to have too long a post. 

If you know how, unscrew the crankcase drain plug to test for water in the crankcase. If there is some let it drain but don't drop the oil yet. You don't want to do a lot of $$ until you know it runs. Don't worry about grease zerks yet.

Lets gitter started!!!


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## drclean (9 mo ago)

i have one of those tractors, the lever on left of steering wheel is the shuttle shift, it has to be in the middle position to start. i think i would jump it to start as battery is under the hood in front. besure that the little lever under clutch and brake petal is up, if this is down the petals will not go down. there is also a rubber knob in middle just behind dash, that is a check stick for hydraulic fluid, the way the air filter is build a long 5-6 in round black tube it is impossible for a mouse to get in, but a mud diver bee can. make it run first before sinking a lot of money in it. I started a 1720 that had been sitting for 4 years by jumping it and it worked fine. just give it time to warm up


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## JB Freeman (9 mo ago)

*And that what I like about this group, so many helpful people. *


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

@John Liebermann Thank you for your reply. My next response after this is going to be an update but it's a positive for sure. Long story short I gave it a very good look over this weekend.

@drclean thank you for response. What little lever under the brake and clutch pedal. Those are still my problem areas.

@JB Freeman I agree! I couldn't wait to get back on this morning and post my update.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Good morning everyone. I couldn't wait to post this! I went up to my dad's place this weekend to work on my tractor. I have to start off by saying I love my tractor! I gave it a good looking over and it's pretty sounds machine. 

I bought a new battery from wal-mart on the way up there but before I ever installed it I looked everything that was suggested by yall last week. It's definitely in need of a fluid(s) & filter change once I get it home but I feel confident enough that it's in good enough shape. In short It's a Keeper.

The oil was dark but it was full, the radiator was full and oil free, but it look like it was just straight water so I'm going to make sure I fill it up properly with anti-freeze when I get it home. The hydraulics fluids were clean and looked brand new. 

I wasn't able to get the fuel filter bowl off to check for water, but looking externally it didn't appear to have any water. That bowl is on there so stinking tight, and FEL on it was right in the way. I also siphoned fuel of of the tank to check for water. It was at this point I felt confident enough to put the battery in and see what happened.

The funny part of this story....I put the battery in and got on the tractor, made sure everything was and neutral and she fired right up. Purring like a kitten. Then it died....I was like oh boy, I hope this isn't bad. Turns out when I was trying to get the fuel filter bowl off, I forgot to turn the fuel back on so I just ran it out of fuel, but I thought I had really broken it because I couldn't get it to start. Luckily I had the operators manual with me and was able to bleed the system and got it running again.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Part 2.... Sorry didn't want to post a wall of text. So now onto the brakes and clutch. 

The brakes first. As suggested earlier I gave everything a bath in PB Blaster before I even started looking everything over. So I unlocked the interconnect that locks the brake pedals together and the right brake pedal sprung up to the proper position. So my problem is the left brake pedal. I'm wondering if it's the parking brake is stuck on. Do y'all know/think that with the parking brake set it could lock one of the pedals down?

Now onto the clutch, so I thought that pedal was frozen but it's not. It's in the depressed position, there is no pressure to bring it back up. I can cycle the clutch all day by hand. I just can't depress it with my foot and let it off and it return like it should. 

I unhooked the blast that on the 3 point and once it was up to operating temp I took the FEL pulled the tractor forward and pushed it backwards with the backwards and was able to get it to roll. With it running the only gear I was able to get it to go into was 1st and in the lowest range and she was rolling under her own power! Once it was going I was able to get it in range 2 so I could go a little bit faster.

As happy as I was by getting her going and under own power, I didn't like the fact that I had to bypass the clutch to do it but I did it long enough to relocate it under the lean to of his barn. 

My biggest concern right now is that clutch, I don't know a lot about them and I don't know how to word my problems in the search engines. One video I watched the guy said he forced it into gear and just drove it around and until clutch broke free, but he was able to depress his clutch pedal.

I don't know if it's a matter of the clutch needing adjusting or what is going on with it. I'm going back this coming up weekend to put a new door in dad's house and I'm going to spend the rest of the day freeing up the left brake pedal and looking into the clutch. I can't wait to get back up there to it. 

Thank you all again for all the advice yall have given me. It truly has helped me and taught me sooo much going into this. The pictures will be my next post


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)




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## JB Freeman (9 mo ago)

Congratulations on getting your tractor up and running. Glad you got it to an area you can work on it.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Also glad you got it running!


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## joninva (Aug 15, 2021)

brian BSL said:


> No, no , no please do not sand the rams, bad!


You won't hurt the rams sanding them by hand with fine grit emory cloth if they need it. If there is rust on them it can damage the seals. Learned this from my dad who was the service manager at the local IH tractor dealership for 25+ years. You wrap the Emory cloth around the ram when sanding.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

@JB Freeman Thank you! I too am glad to have it running, that was my biggest fear that something bigger was going to be a hang up on that front. The brakes and clutch have me puzzled for now but I'll get it sorted out.

@pogobill Thank you! 

@joninva Thank you for your reply. The rams look pretty good all in all. When I get back to my phone I'll post a picture of them. I wiped them down and they seemed to cycle just fine when I was operating them. I have to clean up the surfaces on the 3 pt when time allows. Right now I want to get this brake and clutch worked out so I figure out how to get it to it's new forever home.


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

Rhino78 said:


> Now onto the clutch, so I thought that pedal was frozen but it's not. It's in the depressed position, there is no pressure to bring it back up. I can cycle the clutch all day by hand. I just can't depress it with my foot and let it off and it return like it should.


So if I'm reading this correctly the clutch pedal is in the depressed position and not returning to the engaged position?
And also one brake pedal is not returning properly.
In one post there was mention of a lever that would lock the clutch pedal in a depressed position, if it has that that could be your issue.
When you "cycle" the clutch I'm guessing you are lifting and lowering the pedal.
Have you monitored the linkage that attaches to the pedal to actually push against the clutch throw out bearing?
Has it come unhooked or is there a latch holding it depressed.
Your manual may discuss a clutch hold down.
Also yes it is possible for the brake lock to only hold one brake down.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

LouNY said:


> So if I'm reading this correctly the clutch pedal is in the depressed position and not returning to the engaged position?
> And also one brake pedal is not returning properly.
> In one post there was mention of a lever that would lock the clutch pedal in a depressed position, if it has that that could be your issue.
> When you "cycle" the clutch I'm guessing you are lifting and lowering the pedal.
> ...


Thank you Lou for chiming in. Yes you are reading that correctly. I think the parking brake may very well be the issue with the clutch also. To answer your question yes I was "cycling" the clutch by lifting and lowering it by hand.

But looking at the clutch pedal adjustment section in the operators manual and looking at the picture. The rod left brake pedal control rod is hooked to the same rod that the clutch pedal sits on. I'm thinking if I can get that brake pedal free I may get the clutch back. Or atleast that's what I'm hoping


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## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

?? If the clutch is depressed...the tractor should not move! Unless the clutch plates were stuck prior to locking the pedal in the depressed position..it would seem there is a linkage issue. Tho I'm not familiar with that particular tractor. Power to the transmission drive is disrupted at the clutch. B.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

BinVa said:


> ?? If the clutch is depressed...the tractor should not move! Unless the clutch plates were stuck prior to locking the pedal in the depressed position..it would seem there is a linkage issue. Tho I'm not familiar with that particular tractor. Power to the transmission drive is disrupted at the clutch. B.


That's what originally was thinking also that there may be a linkage issue, but only common denominator I can see is right now is the parking brake being set. The only range gear it would go into easily is 1. I tried 2nd and 3rd and it wouldn't go into either one those ranges. And I never took it out of 1st gear on the shuttle shift.


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## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

Looks like it;s running taxed fuel. It would be a bit less expensive to run offroad fuel. Depends on how much you are going to run it.


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## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

Congrats on the project so far................Something that I have to point out is a huge "atta-boy" to you for not only having a manual for this tractor but knowing when to stop and take the time to read it......Great job so far on this.....Also, thanks for the "play-byplay" on this.......Makes it fun to read and see your excitement on the project......


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

@John Liebermann I agree. I'm going to look for a place locally that sells off road fuel near and plan on running that when I get here with me.

@unsquidly Thank you! I hope y'all are enjoying the play by play, and hopefully now or some day someone will be in this boat and have something to refer to. The manual has been a true life saver, I keep on my desk at work and in my truck when I'm working. I'd really like to get a service manual for it one day. When I first joined and posted my intro some of the suggestions I got was pointing me to the operators manual and I took it to heart and did just that.


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## Bob1251 (May 27, 2021)

Alan Dalton and said:


> Curious how one starts a gear drive boomer in gear


I have a old international that the clutch freezes up on it quite often , I tried a lot of things but what worked best for me was to loosen up the linkage and climb under it with a long screwdriver and try to tap the clutch plate around , of course I would put the tractor in neutral and make sure no one could start it while I was under it . I tried towing it but just tore up the ground , I tried running itto a stump , tires keep turning digging a big hole . I tried using the brakes ,it kept going . By the way I never tried to force into gear while running , that would be bad . What I would do was to have it in neutral warm it up good , raise the bucket and the 3 point hitch , shut it off and put it in 1 st gear and let the started move it to it started . I hope something I said helps . Good luck


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Bob1251 said:


> I have a old international that the clutch freezes up on it quite often , I tried a lot of things but what worked best for me was to loosen up the linkage and climb under it with a long screwdriver and try to tap the clutch plate around , of course I would put the tractor in neutral and make sure no one could start it while I was under it . I tried towing it but just tore up the ground , I tried running itto a stump , tires keep turning digging a big hole . I tried using the brakes ,it kept going . By the way I never tried to force into gear while running , that would be bad . What I would do was to have it in neutral warm it up good , raise the bucket and the 3 point hitch , shut it off and put it in 1 st gear and let the started move it to it started . I hope something I said helps . Good luck


Thank you for your reply Bob! I was thinking on my way into to work this morning on my next steps to get my clutch back. Your tips will certainly come in handy. I'm hoping to get back up there this weekend, but it's calling for rain from Saturday to Tuesday, so I may have slip a week. Edit: I also tried to using the brakes and it just kept digging and going, dug two very small holes in the yard.


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

When tow starting a tractor it needs to be in a higher gear so the engine turns over instead of skidding the tires,
it is also easier to stall the tractor out with the brakes in a higher gear.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

LouNY said:


> When tow starting a tractor it needs to be in a higher gear so the engine turns over instead of skidding the tires,
> it is also easier to stall the tractor out with the brakes in a higher gear.


Thank you Lou, That makes a lot of sense


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Good morning y'all. Hope everyone had a good memorial day weekend. I got up to look at the tractor this weekend. So the parking brake wasn't the issue like I was hoping. It wasn't even set. I've been focusing on the left brake pedal more than anything because in my mind being able to stop it is more important than getting it going. 

So I got backed it out from under the shed and got messing around with brake pedal. Stomping on it trying to get it to move. I did indeed get it to move. I managed lock the left brake to the point where the tractor wouldn't move at all.. Once I figured this out I grabbed a 2x4, then me and my brother was able to get the left brake pedal to move! So atleast now ii have the brakes totally freed up. 

When I was on the ground inspecting the parking brake. I noticed a zerk fitting on the left brake pedal and it had crusty old grease around it. I don't know if dad ever greased it because of the odd angle it sits at or what, but I think I'm gonna get me a lock n load grease coupler and pump it full of grease. I soaked it down with WD40 before I left so hopefully after sitting for a week it'll help remove any rust and water from the pedal connection. Right now I can push the pedal down but I have to pull it back up so hopefully a good coat of grease will fix that.

So my plan moving forward is I'm gonna get the brake pedal working like it should and then I'm going to move onto the clutch. I think with the clutch I'm gonna look over the linkage real good make sure everything is connected and in good working order, fix any obvious problems that may be there. After all that is done, I think I'm gonna follow the videos I've seen on the YouTube and hook it to my truck and give it a good ole heave ho and let it sort itself out. I'll have my son drive my truck and I'll sit on the tractor. 

Thank y'all for all your words and advice, I can't begin to tell y'all how much I appreciate it and how helpful it's been.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Good morning all. Sorry it's been awhile since I updated my journey with my new holland TC33D. We've been busy getting all of my dad's belongings off of the property as we're selling his house and should probably close sometime soon. I haven't had a lot off time to mess around with the tractor but past weekend I was able to mess with it and get a better picture of what's going on.

I can't remember what I posted last so my apologies if I restate something I already said. The left brake pedal is still hard to depress and does not return, I think it is due to a lack of grease. I was able to purchase a lock-n-lube grease coupler but the zerk fitting is a 45 degree fitting so I wasn't able to connect the grease gun to the zerk. I'm going to buy kit of assorted zerk fittings before we go back this upcoming weekend, find one the works and also replaced other's that are giving me problems.

Onto the clutch, I'm still of the opinion that the clutch is probably rusted to the flywheel. My clutch pedal not returning is a separate issue. I confirmed this past weekend that is indeed a separate issue. I was able to lossen the floor pan and move it up enough to see that the returns springs aren't there. When I stop at tractor supply and get the zerk fittings I'm going to see if they have a spring that could work as a return spring, if it comes down to it I may run over to the new holland dealer about an hour away and see if they have the spring. I found it on messicks but shipping was almost as much as the springs and I just have a hard time paying that.

In cleaning out his sheds I found the fluids he had bought to maintain the tractor. He a 5 gallon bucket of hydraulic oil, some Rotella T oil and there was one other just I can't remember what it was now. Well that's my update for now. I'm going to be driving the tractor down to my brothers house this weekend and then figure out how to get it back to it's forever home. I can't wait to get it here where I can really start fixing it. Thank you all for your help and advice as I've navigated this new territory. Y'alls help has been a life saver and more valuable than I could ever express. Have a blessed day.


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## JB Freeman (9 mo ago)

Rhino78
Hang in there, it won’t be long before your tractor is full functional and up and running perfectly.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

JB Freeman said:


> Rhino78
> Hang in there, it won’t be long before your tractor is full functional and up and running perfectly.


Thank you I agree, I'm feeling more confident everyday that it be a fine machine once I get the kinks worked out of it.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

Good morning all. Well all my dad's belongings including the tractor are off the property. We were up at his place this weekend finishing everything up. I had so much fun using my tractor! I was using the FEL to dump trash into the dumpster. I picked up some springs Thursday afternoon that may work as clutch return springs. I didn't get a chance to see if the would because we were so busy? Nor did I get a chance to replace that zerk in the left brake pedal. What I did get to do though got me all giddy and stuff.

Saturday morning I was loading up the bucket with trash, and I was driving over to the dumpster and I decided to push in on the clutch pedal just to see what would happen and low and behold it worked! 
I don't know if it was stuck and freed up, or if it was free the whole time and I just wasn't pushing it hard enough. I don't know but I'm stoked about it. Bad news is right after I learned this the power steering cylinder went out. So now I have to find the correct rebuild kit for it. 

Other good news is while cleaning out his barn I found the headlight assembly, and the grill mesh for the front if the hood. The "glass" was missing from the headlight but he had some plexiglass in the barn. I assume he was planning on shaping the plexiglass into the headlight assembly. So I figure out how to do that and the best glue to use to hold it. The grill has a missing ear on it, I'm not really stressing it that much I just have to find the correct hardware to put it all back together.

Now that all this is done I'm gonna take a couple weeks off and get the stuff together and go back to my brothers place rebuild that cylinder and bring it home. Will update when it is all done


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## JB Freeman (9 mo ago)

Rhino78
Great news, glad to here you finished up getting the property cleaned up and your tractor was a big help in that process. To bad the power steering went out, hopefully that rebuilt isn’t to difficult now that your becoming a tractor mechanic. Keep us posted on your progress and a few pictures when you have her all cleaned up


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

JB Freeman said:


> Rhino78
> Great news, glad to here you finished up getting the property cleaned up and your tractor was a big help in that process. To bad the power steering went out, hopefully that rebuilt isn’t to difficult now that your becoming a tractor mechanic. Keep us posted on your progress and a few pictures when you have her all cleaned up


Thank you JB! I certainly will keep you posted. I started learning the value of it this weekend. It was more than happy to carry the stuff that I didn't want to carry. Everything I've read and watched it don't appear to hard to rebuild. I just to make sure i get the correct kit. I guess there was two kits, one for tractors with super steer and one for those without. I believe mine has super steer. It's funny how hands on experience is the best teacher.


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## JB Freeman (9 mo ago)

I’d order both kits just to be safe and return the one you didn’t need. I’m sure the old man would be proud to know his son is taking care of the tractor. Take care and enjoy your new(to you) tractor.


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## Rhino78 (Dec 16, 2021)

JB Freeman said:


> I’d order both kits just to be safe and return the one you didn’t need. I’m sure the old man would be proud to know his son is taking care of the tractor. Take care and enjoy your new(to you) tractor.


Good idea! I sure like to think he would be proud.


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