# Throttle Issues on 1970 Ford 4000 3.3L 3 cyl Diesel



## Ed Williams

I know I have been a pain asking questions, but I have run into a new problem I cannot get a handle on. Every other time I move the throttle the throttle rod connector comes off the stud on the backing plate, or the stud stays in the throttle rod connector and comes out of the backing plate. Have to remove 2 bolts on the cover to put back together. Very frustrating. I replaced the throttle rod connector thinking the old one was just worn out, but the new one is doing the same thing. The old NAA has a spring loaded throttle rod connector that clamps on the stud with spring tension and the stud screws into the backing plate. It has never come loose in the 49 yrs I have had the tractor. Seems like a much better design. Any solutions? I thought about switching the throttle rod connector, but that does not help with the stud coming out of the backing plate.


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## thepumpguysc

The only thing I'm familiar w/ is the crazy clip that holds the rod that goes into the throttle..
Are u talking about, further back up the linkage.?


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## Ed Williams

Yes, the rod connector next to the power steering mast. The old NAA has a similar system, but it is all metal with a spring loaded head that keeps tension on the stud ball. Also, the stud actually threads onto the backing plate, where the new one just sits in a hole in the backING plate. The throttle rod connector is now a cheap plastic unit that just sits over the stud ball, no way to lock it into place.


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## Ultradog

A photo is worth a thousand words.


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## Ed Williams

The next time it comes off and I have to unbolt the lower cover to repair I will take some pics.


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## Ed Williams

Update. Fixed the damned nucience problem caused by using cheap plastic parts where they should not be used. Throttle linkage came apart again while mowing field. Got it home be knealing on fight footboard and operating throttle by hand using first gear. If I had not been on flat ground I wouldn't have tried this. Still caught hell from other half coming up drive. Drilled out the cheap plastic rod connector and hole for pivot pin that was lost in field, then installed 1/4x1-1/2 bolt w / flatwashers and 2 nuts under pivot to give some pivot slack like the plastic socket and the same rig at the pin mount to allow some pivot slack at that point, hen greased well. Solid throttle movement now where it was sloppy before and both pivot points working great. Problem solved for good, hopefully. I did minor in afro engineering in college while diving "affordable" cars. Dad always used the alternate word "JUNK".


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## Ultradog

I still don't understand what you are talking about.


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## Hacke

Look at the attached diagram.

The throttle rod (14) is attached to the arm (6) via the ball and cup link (12). I believe this post is about this link.

Originally there is a link that looks like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/C5NN9740A-...TO-CARB-For-FORD-2000-3000-4000-/192087436745
with a locking clip like this:
https://www.messicks.com/part/81806377/clip

I searched for the link and found this aftermarket plastic gadget:
http://www.crosscreektractor.com/default.aspx?page=item detail&itemcode=81811646
I believe Ed Williams' tractor is equipped with one of these.

I had problems with the original link and replaced it with a generic hardware store link, like this:
https://www.wiberger.se/bilder/foton/vinkel/vinkellank.jpg
The original ball stud was riveted to the arm, so I ground it off from the underside of the arm.


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## Ed Williams

Hscke. You nailed it. Which hardware store did you find that type link? I tried ACE and Tractor Supply, but they couldn't come up with anything close. The stud with the ball was not attached to yhe pivot arm. It just sat in the hole. The plastic connector would not stay on the ball, even tried to hold it in place with 2 wire ties. The NAA is completely metal with a spring loaded socket for the ball, and the stud extends thru the plate and is attached by a nut. It has never come loose in 45 years. The Ford dealer here only had the plastic one and it was $17.00. The bolt I used is working for now, but I really want to be completely rid of the plastic connector. Can you.send info on the metal connector?


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## Hacke

Just to make sure:
Do you have a foot pedal arrangement on your tractor?
No chain involved?



The picture I linked to is from a Swedish store. I tried to search for parts in USA, but did not know the proper words for the link/joint/swivel thing. I tried the obvious, ball joint, but that gives car steering and suspension parts. Now, I ended up with throttle linkage parts as a better term. However, there has to be hardware stores that sells this type of links/joints.

The New Holland part number is 81811646 (old number: C5NN9740A) and it looks like Messick's and Helm's Tractor Parts has got the metal type:
https://www.messicks.com/part/81811646/connector
https://www.ebay.com/itm/C5NN9740A-...TO-CARB-For-FORD-2000-3000-4000-/192087436745

Try an auto part store, or an auto repair shop, and investigate their throttle linkage supply. If the rod is original, it has a 1/4-28 UNF Right Hand thread. That is what the joint's internal thread should be. Bring the rod to make sure.

If you end up with a rod/joint arrangement that is too short, put a ball joint in the throttle lever on the pump, as well. Measure to see if it could work with the hook at the end of the rod cut away, and the new end threaded. If that looks to be too short, cut a 1/4" rod to length and thread the ends. You can use an all thread rod, but I would cover the non-used threads. The rod can easily work as a file on hoses and electrical wiring. Use heat shrink tubing or a plastic hose/pipe to cover the threads.

This one looks perfect, unfortunately it comes in a pack of 5 (which is about the same price as one original):
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-26523-115-007.aspx
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=Dorman+115-007&t=ffsb&ia=web

Some search results:
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=1/4"+Ball+Joint&t=ffsb&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=BALL+JOINT+throttle+linkage&t=ffsb&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15740/10002/-1


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## Ed Williams

Boy, thanks for all the great info. Found exactly what I needed on ebay. It only comes in 2 pack. It is a Mr Gasket 1811g, carb + throttle linkage end kit. About same price as 1 plastic end from Ford. 2 day delivery and free shipping. ALL METAL with spring loaded sockets.


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## Hacke

Excellent.
Please, post some pictures of the adaption.


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## Ed Williams

To start, this is the part I purchased. They come as a pair to connect the throttle rod to the throttle lever and a carb. I will only be using one to connect the throttle rod to the throttle levery located on the right side of the power steering unit and just above the transmission. Location is under the lower cowling which must be removed for access to the throttle lever unit. Parts to arrive Mon Oct21. Will post pics when install is complete. I can't be the only one having a continuous nucience problem with this cheap plastic part. I have replaced it 3 times already and the assembly still comes spart. The metAl replacement with spring loaded socket should cure the problem for good.


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## Hacke

Looking foward to pictures.

I think you should use a nyloc nut for the ball stud.


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## thepumpguysc

Dam.. I think u coulda got that at Lowes.?? in their "speciality" drawers..
I know mine has them..
Glad u found what u were looking for.. not knowing the terminology has screwed me up a time or 2..{or 5} lol


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## Ed Williams

Never checked Lowes. The place to go in Richmond for any strange "stuff" is ACE. If they don't have it, they can get it. I think the biggest problem was not knowing the proper name and not being able to describe it so they could understand what I was looking for. After Hacke's post, I had a better name for what I was searching for. I had tried ebay previously, and it only came up as the plastic part. Different name, whole list.of parts came up and found what I was looking for. Live and learn. At least now I can make the proper repair. Already Have A LOCK Nut Laid OUT .


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## thepumpguysc

After u get the parts installed.. PROPER adjustment will be required.. & it usually takes 2 people.. Its not rocket science but 2 people make the job go faster..
1 guy holding the pedal down while the other makes the adjustment on the rod, so the throttle JUST TOUCHES the hi speed stop screw..
IF u have a "break-back lever".. the lever w/ the spring in it.. try to get it to break over just a hair..
Most of those levers are frozen-up w/ gunk & don't work anyway.. but see if it'll break over the spring.. IF NOT, just adjust it till it touches the stop screw..
& CHECK the low speed movement.. MAKE SURE it hitting the low speed screw..

I've seen those linkages to be so far outta whack & w/ so much wear/slop in them, that they will either hit the hi stop OR the low stop.. but not both.. 
in which case the customer opts for it to hit the low speed screw & says, we never run it up that hi anyway..
Post your progress & yell if u run into trouble..
Are u sure u got the right thread for your rod.??


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## Ed Williams

Thanks for the info on adjustment. Thread on new metal unit is listed as the.same on the plastic part I replaced previously.

I cleaned all the linkage up when I refurbished originally. Throttle lever works nice and smooth and tension feels right when changing throttle position. 

One question now. What is the correct low speed idle rpm for the 3.3L diesel?


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## Hacke

Idle speed: 600-700 rpm. The tachometer is not that reliable, if possible, check with a revolution counter (at different speeds) to see how accurate your tachometer is.

Under "Manuals" section you have some manuals for your tractor:
https://www.tractorforum.com/manuals/
The best Owner's Manual can be found here:
www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Operators%20Manual%20All%20Purpose%20and%20LCG%20Tractors%202000,3000,4000,and%205000.pdf


You never answered about the foot pedal and thepumpguysc's instruction got me confused:
Do you have a foot pedal arrangement, or is it only a lever on the dashboard?


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## Ed Williams

I only have the lever on the dash with the attachment arm and spring tensioner down where thre PS bolts onto tranny housing. Not used to any of the fancy stuff. I assumed foot pedals were only on the hydros. I have not seen any on the older tractors. Ignorence is bliss.


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## Ed Williams

OK guys, here we go. The first pics are the plastic connector. This is the third one I installed. The first 2 were white plastic, the third is black plastic. All 3 cracked at the thread block during install. $12.00 each. A real waste of money for a piece of crap. The first 2 kept coming off the stud which just sat in a hole on the mounting plate. The last one I reinforced the thread block with a worm drive clamp. Helped some as the connector di stay on the stud. Instead, it pulled the stud out of the mounting plate. Last time I lost the stud somewhere in the 15 acre field I was mpwing.

Second set is the temp repair I made by drilling out the stud mounting plate and the plastic connector and used a 1/4" bolt to replace the lost stud.

Set #3 is the new all metal part which uses s spring loaded socket to hold the stud ball in place.

All the linkage was cleaned and lubed so it operates smoothly the entire range of throttle positions. Maybe a fluke, but I was able to adjust the linkage so the throttle has the full range, from idle to wide open full throttle. The throttle rod operates smoothly over the entire range and stays in the position desired. I am going to quit picking at it now before I mess it up.


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## Hacke

I am not sure if I got it right, are you still using the plastic joint?


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## Ed Williams

The plastic joint is in the trash. New joint is all metal with spring loaded ball socket, just like the ones on the 53 NAA, which have never come loose in the 45 years I have had the tractor. The plastic joint came loose 17 times in the 4 months of ownership. Good riddance to the plastic piece of crap.

Forgot pics of temp repair until I got the all metal joint delivered. Then new metal joint.


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## Hacke

Looks great!
I do not understand the extra nut on top of the arm to lock the ball stud, but if it works, it works.

Edit:
Arm, not bracket.
Words...


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## Ed Williams

The stud was a little low, so I added a nut as a spacer, plus it acts like a double nut to lock the stud into place. It stiffened the whole assembly so I left it that way. The throttle rod was in a little bind and the extra nut raised the assembly up where the rod moved easily. 

BTW, I set the rpm at 700. Sounded pretty low at that setting. I have one of Snap-On's better timing lights that will allow you to set the rpm of the strobe. Made a chalk mark on the crank and set the idle by the timing light strobe. I think it is pretty accurate. Proof meter rpm was 25-50 rpm lower than the reading from the timing light, plus the proof meter rpm is a little hard to read. Not too bad a match cosidering. I am happy with the results, and that is all that really matters. The plastic connector caused a lot of unnecessary headaches. I have 4 additional switches mounted on the cowling for the lights and thermo start which have to be disconnected to move the cowling far enough to reach the throttle assembly. You can imagine my frustration every time the plastic connector came off the stud. It was wearing me out.


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## Hacke

I understand. That part of the tractor will not give you any problems from now on.


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