# solenoid won't start when Grounded to metal frame



## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Hello, first time posting so pardon if I'm not posting correctly and so forth.. 


*Issue:* Solenoid showing 13V across both posts and energizer when NOT grounded to frame (ungrounded) But once I ground it to the frame I continue to get the 13V to HOT post and nothing at energizer. Then when I go to start I get milli-amps

at the energize and* nothing* passes to the starter side of the solenoid. At first I was getting Buzzing, now nothing to the starter side, no voltage there at all. 


Ground clean to metal on battery, all terminals cleaned, battery full, solenoid properly working, starter properly working.( I have 2 of each, all working) Key switch tested, PTO relay tested but not the pto switch although clicks on/off.

So I figure it's bad ground somewhere or a bad wire. So before I dug into each wire which I don't want to do.. figured I'd ask here, and the help is super appreciated, day 3 of troubleshooting, nothing yet.


Again, Solenoid won't click on when grounded to metal frame (3 post).


Help?


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## Denver (Mar 30, 2020)

You have a bad ground! Solenoid does not need a ground, but when you ground the solenoid the starter is stealing the ground from solenoid. Test the grounds. Welcome to the site.


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## Denver (Mar 30, 2020)

Can find many vids at YouTube how to test grounds.


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## Denver (Mar 30, 2020)

Run a ground from battery negative to solenoid body, see how it does.


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Thanks Denver, I saw a few vids as you suggested. Tomorrow I will try a ground from the batt. negative to the solenoid and also recheck my battery to ground on the frame. 

I will report back with my results. Hope that's the issue, might be my ground to body is no longer good.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

the solenoid does need a ground for the pull in windings and hold windings, internally there are two circuits inside the solenoid, a heavy pull in winding and a lighter hold winding and if the heavy winding has gone open circuit, then it wont engage the starter.

You should be able to bridge with a screw driver across the battery connection pole on the solenoid to the spade or threaded bolt where the switch starter cable attaches and if the winding is ok, the starter should engage,-- if the starter is off of the tractor, then connect a + positive jumper cable to the battery post on the solenoid and a - negative jumper cable to the starter mounting flange and bridge across as before, but hold the starter tight because you will get a torque reaction when it kicks in because the starter body will want to spin.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

*"Solenoid showing 13V across both posts and energizer when NOT grounded to frame"*.... They are spring-loaded *OPEN*. When energized, the magnet engages the copper contact plate across the two battery studs (that's the "click"). Note the internal wiring of the starter relay in the generic wiring diagram below with the key in the OFF position...










*3-Post *grounds through the mounting bracket...

*4-post *grounds through either one of the smaller studs. It doesn't matter which one because the OEM's tie one into ground to rig the "stupid switches" on lawn mowers. (Usually electric PTO and/or brake switch). On cars with a remote relay, it's usually the neutral safety switch....

The easiest/sneakiest way to bypass *all* of the safety switches on a lawn mower (with a 4-post relay) that won't turn over is to figure out which wire comes from the S terminal on the switch and ground the other one(usually a Black wire). That will tell you instantly if a "No Crank" is in the starter circuit, or the PITA "stupid switch" circuits....


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

"You should be able to bridge with a screw driver across the battery connection pole on the solenoid"

that's what really surprised me - that I am NOT able to jump it with a screw driver.. nothing happens - the battery side of the solenoid maintains the 13V and does not jump over to the starter side of the solenoid. 

lead me to think a safety switch is malfunctioning - the seat safety switch is disabled which leaves the brake switch and the electric PTO blade switch which I believe is built-in to the PTO switch or relay.. 

So today as Denver recommended I will re-check battery ground and try a cable from neg. battery to solenoid metal base for ground.

No voltage coming to the starter yet so I need to get that far.. when I disconnect the starter cable - at the starter then I get a solenoid click - left connected - I won't get a click. 
And if I disconnect the solenoid from the mower's metal frame, then I get a click - so bad ground?

I'm usually pretty good with troubleshooting but this one has me stumped, have tested all components almost then that would just leave wiring.. fustrating.


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

​


Bob Driver said:


> The easiest/sneakiest way to bypass *all* of the safety switches on a lawn mower (with a 4-post relay) that won't turn over is to figure out which wire comes from the S terminal on the switch and ground the other one(usually a Black wire). That will tell you instantly if a "No Crank" is in the starter circuit, or the PITA "stupid switch" circuits....


Not sure how you mean - will search some vids how to jump start bypassing the solenoid to try.. thanks


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Is that 3-days of troubleshooting (and climbing) a $10 part because of "social distancing", or are you one of those guys that have moths fly out when you finally pry the wallet open?

I've got a recycling crate full of them.... Do you need me to send you one that works like it's supposed to? It's "free", but shipping is going to run about $50, so you might want to try Auto Zone first.


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

LOL - that's a good one.. thanks my social skills do need a workout and I don't get moths anymore just an occasional squeak when I open the wallet. 

solenoid and starter are good - bench tested with a 12V, Taryl - where are ya when I need ya - Where's my dinn'er !


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Taryl time is probably $65-$75 an hour... He would have slapped a new relay on in about 10 minutes and used the money/time he saved to buy a big lobster dinner


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> Taryl time is probably $65-$75 an hour... He would have slapped a new relay on in about 10 minutes and used the money/time he saved to buy a big lobster dinner


yeah it's more like - thare's *my* dinn'er instead of thare's yur dinn'er .. 

he's still the best thou .. along with donyboy and doublewide six.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Donyboy is a kid that takes himself way to seriously.

Doublewide Six hovers somewhere between an advanced rookie and a B class mechanic on a good day. 

Taryl is what you usually end up with from a guy that's been turning wrenches and sniffing exhaust fumes on a daily basis for 40+ years.... What was he going to do for a living besides being a mechanic? 

Replacing Brad Pitt, or George Clooney wasn't exactly a viable option for a self-proclaimed ******* from Indiana (sorta like me) .


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Driver, I agree with you 100% !!!
Dony with his boyish looks is super mellow as yellow (grass).. 
But you do learn from him if ya speed it up some.. 

Doublewide - agree ! - carries a wrench to wipe his nose, B mechanic and studier of "how dat work anyway" and makes videos not to waste your time. 

And good'Ole Taryl, I think he uses his teeth for a wrench when there ain't one around .. 
I think Arnold Swartzenager can play Doublewide, talking to himself and all.. lol

All in all, why am I sitting here trying to cut my grass when it hasn't even grown yet : ( ?

gonna try to make a video of my tractor issue..


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

I figure Donyboy is the front man in the videos for whoever owns the shop because that guy is even uglier than Taryl

With Doublewide6.... I never trusted any of my mechanics that called any component a "thingamabob". I think he's the Kim Kardashian of You Tube lawn mower videos.... He shows up all the time, but damned if I can figure out why.


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Donyboy does own his shop - he is very high in demand in his area and gets pretty detailed.
Doublewide wouldn't be doublewide without that home in the woods, no lights in my garage, where did I put my chainsaw in case someone comes by vibe.. and I'd have to watch his vids before and Kim vids, well maybe one.. lol

So here's the video showing my issue.. I get a voltage drop where the solenoid at the battery post shows 2.8 volts .. I guess I got me a parasite somewhere .. 

I need more brain power to figure this one .. maybe some of you smart folk can help
appreciated, thanks --->>


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Oh crap.... Does yours actually have that stupid "Service Monitor Module" on it? If it does, every wire at the key switch except the lights(L terminal - blue wire) and the stator input (A2 terminal - white wire) passes through that damn electronic module....

I just uploaded a PDF of the wiring diagram to the Manuals Section of this forum ("Cub Cadet LT1018 Wiring Diagram"). Take a look and you'll see what I mean. Note the 8-pin connector that goes to the "Monitor" in the right of the diagram. If your machine has that module it's a game changer as far as troubleshooting and not in your favor. 

There may be a work around, but I make no guarantees. Let me know if yours has that 8-pin connector ("Service Monitor" was an option at one time)

Have you tried a set of jumper cables from the battery and bumping the starter stud with the hot lead to make sure the starter is not shorted??


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## Denver (Mar 30, 2020)

GreenerDays said:


> Donyboy does own his shop - he is very high in demand in his area and gets pretty detailed.
> Doublewide wouldn't be doublewide without that home in the woods, no lights in my garage, where did I put my chainsaw in case someone comes by vibe.. and I'd have to watch his vids before and Kim vids, well maybe one.. lol
> 
> So here's the video showing my issue.. I get a voltage drop where the solenoid at the battery post shows 2.8 volts .. I guess I got me a parasite somewhere ..
> ...


I have a troybilt worked fine starting. I turned it up on it’s side to change the drive belt. I let it down easy. I got on it to start it, had nothing! I said what the hell! I troubleshoot everything on it. I bought a new ignition switch, new safety switches etc. they did test good, but bought anyway. I ohm wires, all checked good! Still baffled! I gave up! I ran a heavy wire to starter, turn key to on, touch wire to positive on battery to start it. I tried a toggle switch, but they all burned up. I can not shut it off with the key, I just shut fuel off till it dies. What is weird I have to turn key on to jump from battery to starter, but can not shut it off with the key. The mower is only 5 years old. Weird crap happens! Turned on it’s side not all the way over to change drive belt, no wires in that area, install the belt, let down easy, then all hell broke lose! But on your mower it acts like something is stealing a ground deal! I had a chevy truck turn headlights on no other lights worked. I found the ground strap at back of the bed broke. Headlight was stealing a weak ground from other lights deal.


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> Oh crap.... Does yours actually have that stupid "Service Monitor Module" on it? If it does, every wire at the key switch except the lights(L terminal - blue wire) and the stator input (A2 terminal - white wire) passes through that damn electronic module....
> 
> I just uploaded a PDF of the wiring diagram to the Manuals Section of this forum ("Cub Cadet LT1018 Wiring Diagram"). Take a look and you'll see what I mean. Note the 8-pin connector that goes to the "Monitor" in the right of the diagram. If your machine has that module it's a game changer as far as troubleshooting and not in your favor.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob, I was just looking at that same wire diagram yesterday that I found also, it is helpful although I'm not super hands on with them. I guess that dash is a service module and yes it has 8 pins, 2 rows of 4 pins. 

Funny too because ever since I've had it (used 3 years) when riding that display would go blank and I'd have to jingle the wires a bit while riding to get the display to show again. I had to position the wires just right for it to make the right contact to stay on. Finally got the wires to rest together where the display would mostly stay on but it would blink and shiver just about on every ride. So maybe one finally gave out and is causing the no start situation.
I would hate having to check every wire. 

I was thinking of jump starting tomorrow with a cable from pos. straight to the starter to see what happens. 
Although I know the start works fine (bench tested again today) and the solenoid also.

If I can't find it I was thinking of rewiring everything since I can bypass the safety but then I'm not sure how to tie in the PTO, power and ground yes but sounds like some pigtail work too that I'm not sure about.

I figured its wire contact somewhere but now you have me thinking with the service module.. 
and I cleaned those contacts last year and applied some electric grease, Improved the flickering some.. 
Maybe one is loose somewhere there.
thanks again !


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Denver said:


> I have a troybilt worked fine starting. I turned it up on it’s side to change the drive belt. I let it down easy. I got on it to start it, had nothing! I said what the hell! I troubleshoot everything on it. I bought a new ignition switch, new safety switches etc. they did test good, but bought anyway. I ohm wires, all checked good! Still baffled! I gave up! I ran a heavy wire to starter, turn key to on, touch wire to positive on battery to start it. I tried a toggle switch, but they all burned up. I can not shut it off with the key, I just shut fuel off till it dies. What is weird I have to turn key on to jump from battery to starter, but can not shut it off with the key. The mower is only 5 years old. Weird crap happens! Turned on it’s side not all the way over to change drive belt, no wires in that area, install the belt, let down easy, then all hell broke lose! But on your mower it acts like something is stealing a ground deal! I had a chevy truck turn headlights on no other lights worked. I found the ground strap at back of the bed broke. Headlight was stealing a weak ground from other lights deal.


Denver, does not sound like good times you had with the situation you had.
Sound like something got shook out of place too and didn't go back. funny I do the same thing and buy extra parts that already work just to rule it out.
That switch needed a resistor for it wouldn't burn out. And many vids show how to add a kill switch to ground to kill the motor. not that I've done it.. 
I really appreciate the input.. 
I'm starting to think like Driver said that it might have something wrong with that service monitor thing. with the flickering I guess it's been warning me.. 
thanks


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Take a look at the wiring diagram again.... Scroll down to the bottom and look at the key switch matrix.

START = B+S+*A1*.... The signal to the relay definitely goes through that module. Normally it's just B+S. The good news is the relay is clicking and you've got power down the main starter lead.

Hopefully when you "jump" straight to the starter stud, it's a bad starter, but you've already said you bench tested the starter.

You're gonna be floored by the price of that stupid module that basically replaces an hour meter. They're $250 on a John Deere and they are probably "OEM Only" (no after market - Dealer only part)

P.S. The "flickering" on that module is because it's losing either 12v power , or the ground contact


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Thanks Bob, really appreciate all the help. about 65 today so gonna spend sometime on it now.. don't think I'll have much luck. On my model they call it a Hour Meter, 35-70 on ebay. But I'm gonna call Cub Cadet tomorrow, there service dept is pretty helpful if you get an older experienced person. To tell me if that Meter would interfere with a start process.

I'm pretty good with mechanical issues, have fixed and sold many blower, trimmers, snow blowers, pressure washers, mowers both gas and electric. But electrical issues really suck. 

Just like car mechanics, most are not that good with electrical except for a few. From a pepboys to a local shop. I know this from personal experience. 

And dam I saw a similar model as mine with a busted motor for 60.00 on craigslist. I said naw, I don't need another mower. Ain't that just how it happens.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

After staring at wiring diagrams for 50+ years, people say I'm pretty good at it. Don't give up yet. Remember that "flicker" you talked about yesterday? It's momentarily losing either 12V power, or ground as the mower bounces along

*12V power* into the module is the #8 pin (red wire) coming from the A1 terminal on the switch. *Ground* is the #5 pin (green wire) coming from the G terminal on the switch. With the problem you're having, I'd look closely at the ground like Denver said.

Staring at wiring diagrams for years starts to have a perverse effect on you... One of the things on my bucket list is to do about a 1/2 dozen jello-shots with a guy that has drawn wiring diagrams for a living as long as I've been staring at them and then see where the conversation goes


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

If you do have jello shots with that gentleman, I imagine it will be a grounded conversation with many hot moments although filled with many safety pauses in place but I imagine an occasional spark here and there.. and don't be surprised if he can read between the lines !! Ha ! 

I'm off to ground myself.


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## Hightech1953 (Dec 30, 2018)

You must always remember the electrical engineers that design this crap are not the ones to work on them. Trust me I know after 35 years as Marine Electrician and 5 as a Generator Tech.


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

I imagine it must be a fine line between design and efficiency.
40 years or electrical experience - you are a god ! Glad you're here !

It's like that ole saying:
" for the convenience of your pleasure - comes the inconvenience of making it work."
ok I lied, I just made that up..

I worked at my friends auto shop for a while where at least once a week you'd say "why do they package so much sh*t under the hood". I mean move 5 parts to get to the part you need to work on. Can't see the floor when you lift the hood like you use to in the old days.

On tractors - Why can't they make some little slide panels you can peek at if they want me to check a rear safety switch or have to break plastic frame to get to a solenoid or print a little label saying if it breaks check this wire.. 

but then who would be crazy enough to do that : /


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

*Solved !!! *
I'd like to thank the Academy Awards and all the Contributors here to that made this fix possible...

So the Problem was that in the process of checking to make sure I had good ground, I checked all wires for Continuity - that was not enough - I should have been testing the Resistance in all the wires I checked. - So boys and girls when checking wires check for continuity yes, but then check how many Ohms of resistance the wire gives off.

It was the Positive Cable from the battery to the starter. It was unstable because of the corrosion and the resistance on this wire was jumping all over the place .. should be about 0.02 lets say..
it measured 18.7 ohms of resistance - that's why I got 2.8 volts when I turned the key.

I guess in my dumb foundness of wondering what's wrong continuity was enough but it was not - so always check for resistance - my fault.

this photo shows that wire - which I added years ago to make that cable longer. Connection was good but that cheap super thin strand wire fell apart when oxidized. So always use thicker gage wire strands. lesson learned.

Changed the wire with good wire and it started right up. thanks again to all involved. see photo.

Positive cable: as you can see - corrosion set in - I gave it a slight tug and it pulled right apart - super thin cooper strand - don't use.

Remember - check for resistance. 




  








20200406_000900




__
GreenerDays


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Apr 6, 2020


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

GreenerDays said:


> ...
> Connection was good but that cheap super thin strand wire fell apart when oxidized. So always use thicker gage wire strands. lesson learned.
> ...
> Positive cable: as you can see - corrosion set in - I gave it a slight tug and it pulled right apart - super thin cooper strand - don't use.
> ...


No, the other way around.
The finer strands, the higher flexability and resistance against breakage caused by metal fatigue. That is why welding cables are fine stranded, for instance.

Is this splice made with solder?
Did you use flux?
Is the ferrule made of aluminium?
Was the splice supported in anyway?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Hacke said:


> No, the other way around.
> The finer strands, the higher flexability and resistance against breakage caused by metal fatigue. That is why welding cables are fine stranded, for instance.
> 
> Is this splice made with solder?
> ...


Hacke - It's a lawnmower, not a Mars probe, and his wife was probably in his ear asking "Are you going to get the damn lawn mowed today?" He probably fixed that problem with whatever he had laying around under a bench, or stored for 20 years in a Mason jar. It's amazing the fixes you come up with when your main go is to just lower the "background noise"

GreenerDays - Good job Dude... Persistence usually leads to triumph and a job like that does present the opportunity to keep your cussing skills finely honed


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Bob Driver said:


> Hacke - It's a lawnmower, not a Mars probe, and his wife was probably in his ear asking "Are you going to get the damn lawn mowed today?" He probably fixed that problem with whatever he had laying around under a bench, or stored for 20 years in a Mason jar. It's amazing the fixes you come up with when your main go is to just lower the "background noise"...


That is possible, but it is the wrong conclusion to blame the size of the strands. If you do not learn from your mistakes, chances are you will be doing them again.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Hacke said:


> That is possible, but it is the wrong conclusion to blame the size of the strands. If you do not learn from your mistakes, chances are you will be doing them again.


He's been chasing the demon haunting that mower for a week... I'm pretty sure he's already hit the "save as" button in his head on that one


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

Hacke said:


> No, the other way around.
> The finer strands, the higher flexability and resistance against breakage caused by metal fatigue. That is why welding cables are fine stranded, for instance.
> 
> Is this splice made with solder?
> ...


the thinner the strands the higher the resistance to breakage ?
ok, I will take the word of someone who knows better than me. But I will stay clear of the stuff personally. 
The splice was with 2 cooper wires with one of those Aluminum crimp connectors.
Maybe aluminum and copper create a chemical reaction that leads to corrosion.
input appreciated Hacke. thanks

Bob you're like that assistant to the Captain in that Perfect Storm movie, you hang in there till the end "we're going down on this ship together" and then the sun comes out.. appreciated !

yeah I grabbed the cable off a dead battery charger so maybe that finer strand is better to conduct but just sitting there the bare ends grow corrosion untouched. like a gray and green old mans beard that hasn't shaved for a while. yick

I'm off to play nurse to my cubby for a while, she's been through hell.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Never leave battery cable exposed at the connection end, or a splice. It's not if it will corrode, it's how long it's going to take. Doesn't matter if it's copper, or aluminum.

Battery cable heat shrink.... 4/0 stranded copper is $.90 per foot off the "ferris wheel" at HD. Compare that to OEM pre-made battery cables.


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

yep I have plenty of it handy, the crimper came with a shield - I just pulled it back to show the wire more. And that flickering had to be from the poor connection, hasn't flickered anymore.. and startups are stronger. Kinda glad it happened now so I know everything is solid. All clean and ready for the season. HD.. you mean be around people? .. 20 ft. distance now.. so sad whats happening.

Speaking of all cleaned up and ready to go, maybe a nice post is a post on "what do you do to get your machine ready for the season". 
I imagine it's been posted before but still nice to hear some of the things, how much ya grease and what you "spit and shine" on your machine..


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

GreenerDays said:


> the thinner the strands the higher the resistance to breakage ?
> ok, I will take the word of someone who knows better than me. But I will stay clear of the stuff personally.


Yes, finer strands means a more flexible cable. More flexibility means less stress on the conducting material. This stress causes the metal to break in the long term, due to bending and vibrations. The metal fatigues, it gets exhausted.



GreenerDays said:


> The splice was with 2 cooper wires with one of those Aluminum crimp connectors.
> Maybe aluminum and copper create a chemical reaction that leads to corrosion.
> input appreciated Hacke. thanks


Yes, it is an electrochemical process that breaks down the less "nobel" metal.
https://help.leonardo-energy.org/hc...n-of-aluminium-and-copper-in-cable-conductors

For instance, on ships made of steel they put pieces of a metal that is less "nobel" than steel (iron), so called sacrificial anodes, which are corroded away to protect the steel from corrosion. Same idea for galvanized steel.


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

I love to learn about electrical, difficult to grasp most times. I can't say how many times I've watched a U tube video when its electrical to try to grasp it. Every bit helps me learn, thank you Hacke ! In a second career I would have loved to be an electrician.. I can do the basics around the house is about it.


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## Gary Yancey (Nov 24, 2019)

GreenerDays said:


> Hello, first time posting so pardon if I'm not posting correctly and so forth..
> 
> 
> *Issue:* Solenoid showing 13V across both posts and energizer when NOT grounded to frame (ungrounded) But once I ground it to the frame I continue to get the 13V to HOT post and nothing at energizer. Then when I go to start I get milli-amps
> ...


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## smartyoyo420 (Nov 2, 2021)

GreenerDays said:


> LOL - that's a good one.. thanks my social skills do need a workout and I don't get moths anymore just an occasional squeak when I open the wallet.
> 
> solenoid and starter are good - bench tested with a 12V, Taryl - where are ya when I need ya - Where's my dinn'er !



Had same problem with my john deere rv .. Smart ass uncle came over and ran a negative cable from battery to engine block and one to frame .. damn thing fire right up .. where was he 10 days sooner when I started swapping everything ..lol .. and off course I had old cables.. be cause I had swapped those out to . .. quick easy fix ...


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

smartyoyo420 said:


> Had same problem with my john deere rv .. Smart ass uncle came over and ran a negative cable from battery to engine block and one to frame .. damn thing fire right up .. where was he 10 days sooner when I started swapping everything ..lol .. and off course I had old cables.. be cause I had swapped those out to . .. quick easy fix ...


Good to hear that was a hassle free fix on his part. I imagine he comes in handy.
As for me, mowers been running fine except my engine is hard to turn over most times. Had the compression release go on the cam, replaced it myself last winter. And it made no difference, I have to start it with my hand covering the air intake where the air filter is to stop air from coming into the engine so it won't compress that air so the engine can turn easier without having air to compress. 

Gonna recheck the ohms of all the wires involved again to make sure I'm not losing power somewhere because when I crank the engine volts drop to about 9 volts while turning to turn the engine.
Some say that much of a drop is normal. I'm not sure. .. But the engine is very hard to turn by hand getting over the compression stroke.
I'm so frustrated with it I won't mention it here.. On second though :

Anybody knows why an engine might be so hard to turn by hand if you replaced the cam shaft with a working compression release ?
I'm stumped : (


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## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

I didn't read all posts, but is battery good?

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


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## GreenerDays (Apr 3, 2020)

fuddy1952 said:


> I didn't read all posts, but is battery good?
> 
> Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


If you're referring to the compression issue, yes new battery from over the summer to rule that out .. ty


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