# Pull behind tillers



## jl1 (Apr 22, 2013)

Would either one of these be ok to use with a JD D140 mower? Or am I asking to destroy the weak trans by doing so? http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200622251_200622251 http://www.drpower.com/power-equipment/roto-tillers/ Thanks.


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## Ironeye (Apr 18, 2013)

Nether one of then are too taxing but personally I would take the DR nortern tool tiller might make your mower spin out but I geuss its you choice there both great


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## jl1 (Apr 22, 2013)

Ironeye said:


> Nether one of then are too taxing but personally I would take the DR nortern tool tiller might make your mower spin out but I geuss its you choice there both great


Why would the Northern be more likely to make it spin out? Only problem I have with the DR is I am looking at the 24 tine model $$$$. The Field tuff is a 24 tine also.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

With the tines in the ground you will not be towing it, you will be holding it back from running forward.


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## TominDallas (Aug 4, 2015)

I've been using one for the first time this season. I'm towing it with an old 65 Sears tractor. Breaking ground the first time is rough. I gave the internals of my transaxle a good inspection before attempting it. I'd strongly suggest doing it slowly and setting the tiller depth very shallow at first then gradually work down in steps. Depth is adjustable.
Tilling already cultivated soil isn't nearly as tough for the tiller. It's what it was made to do.
I've heard these can destroy a hydro transmission if it wasn't made to handle the jolting forces these things exert on the tow vehicle. The cheaper ones. Judging by the way it jerks my little tractor around I'd say that's probably correct. One thing I did to help was to add a 2:1 jackshaft in the belting between the engine and transaxle. Made it really creep for breaking ground but I can speed it up for tilling already broken ground. As long as the tractor can handle it, these things beat the heck outta walking behind one, and cover considerably more area per pass.


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## fatjay (Dec 6, 2013)

Most hydro's can't handle it, and most manual's are to fast. You may want to consider the 68-88 new holland/ariens S14-GT20 tractors, that have hydro trans and 48" roto tillers available. I have one and I've tilled acres at a time without much issue. One time I hit a rock and it broke the coupling for the driveshaft to the motor. Never had an issue with the trans.


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## TominDallas (Aug 4, 2015)

It's really better if you can use a tractor devoted to tilling. I know that's not going to be much of an option for some guys. The problem is that they're made mainly just to mow, and that's too fast. That was my problem. Low gear, throttle down and it was still too fast. I gave up and made a jackshaft. That meant I had to buy new belts and a few dollars for pulleys. Variable engine pulley adjusted to about 2". The original pulley was a 3". 2" on the engine turning a 6" turning a 2" driving a 6" at the transaxle. Now it creeps slowly enough to do the job but doesn't thrash the machinery.
If you're just tilling previously cultivated soil you might get away without resorting to this. For breaking up fresh earth though, you really need to slow it down.


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## jl1 (Apr 22, 2013)

Thanks for the replies. I ended up buying the one from Northern tool. Just don't have enough justification(or money) for a real tractor setup. So far so good. I did service the trans using synthetic oil beforehand. I will say this tiller is pretty good, especially in previously broken ground. Have to take new ground slow. My only complaint is that it doesn't till quite as deep as my front tine tiller but I can get over that.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

I'd recommend turning/breaking the soil with a moldboard plow prior to using the tiller. Break, let it rest a couple of days then till away.












this hydrostatic tractor with tiller and mower costed far less than any of the tow behind tillers and is strong enough to do any of the ground engaging work you might think up.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

jl1 said:


> Why would the Northern be more likely to make it spin out? Only problem I have with the DR is I am looking at the 24 tine model $$$$. The Field tuff is a 24 tine also.


I also wonder how he came to that conclusion seeing that both tillers are forward rotating.


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