# Arien 22hp v-twin: fried after jump start?



## bwpotter (Apr 12, 2015)

Hi everyone:

I tried starting my mower for the first time this season when it only turned over once or twice before I gave up. I then tried jump starting from my truck and noticed a change in rpm's when I connected the jumper cables indicating there was a substantial draw in current. The jumper cables started getting warm within a minute or two so I disconnected them.

Now the mower won't do anything and I'm wondering whether I may have done some damage to the electrical system. It's completely dead. The lights won't come on even though there's about 13.1 VDC on the battery. I may have left the ignition key on during the jump start! Can't seem to locate a fuse.

Any thoughts, suggestions, or recommendations on where I can go from here? Thanks for any help.

Regards... Brian


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## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

Sounds like the battery is ok, BUT I've seen batteries that checked full voltage and couldn't deliver any current under load. I would take it to an auto parts store and have them load test it.

Maybe the starter gear is stuck in the flywheel gear? Or maybe the engine has seized up?

I have a Kubota mower that has a master fusible link. If I blow that link, it's going to be completely dead. You may have such a link??


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

There is a main fuse,either behind the dash or else where in the harness. It should be either yellow(20a),or blue(30a). 
Clean all the terminals on the cables,and make sure they are tight.
Before you try to start it,again,take out the sprarkplugs,and then see if it rolls over. A couple of spins should do. Then install the spark plugs and see if it still rolls over well.
If it doesn't roll over on either try,you may have a bad starter. 
If it rolls well with the plugs out,but not when they are in,it could be the battery,solenoid,or the starter.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

You didn't by chance hook the jumper cables up backwards? Had that happen once on a JD mower. They fried the diode for the charging system, requiring replacement of the alternator and a few plugs on the wiring harness. Can also fry the battery if left on long enough.

I'd get the battery load tested to be sure its good. Most mower batteries only last 3-5 years at the most in my experience. If the battery checks out, then reinstall it in the mower, making sure all the battery connections are clean and tight. Also check the ground cable where it attaches to the mower. I've seen them come loose and cause issues. There is a fuse in the system, usually near the battery. If you follow the smaller wire that attaches to the starter solenoid where the big cable from the battery connects, the fuse should be located along its path. It goes from that terminal to the key switch, and the fuse is virtually always between them. The fuse holder may just be hanging from the wiring harness, or it may be clipped onto the metal frame of the unit near the battery. If the battery is good, the fuse is good, and you still have no crank, then I'd check the starter solenoid. The contacts inside get burnt over time and finally don't make contact. You can see if you are getting power to the smaller terminals on the solenoid when turning the key. If there are two smaller ones, then one is power and one is ground. Check both to see if you get power to either when turning the switch with the clutch pushed in. If there is one terminal, then the solenoid grounds through the chassis and that terminal should get power when you turn the switch with the clutch pushed in. If you get power and nothing happens, then the solenoid is shot and needs to be changed. They aren't all that expensive.

You can test the starter by jumping from the positive terminal of the battery to the terminal on the starter with a jumper cable. Use the same color clamp on both ends or it won't do anything (been there, done that, duh!). If the starter cranks, then the motor is good. If it doesn't crank, then the motor is bad or you have a bad ground. That's assuming your battery load tests good.


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