# I’m diggin in



## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

just aquired a J.C. Penney tractor. I’m in the process of getting it to run. Looks like it’s a simplicity 7013s. Here’s my carb. Note duct tape over breather tube and scratch marks from a vice. Can’t find a part number anywhere on it.if you look you can see a gap between bowl and choke plate. I can’t move it any more than that.theres a retaining screw at bottom of bowl. I’m sure it’s holding it in place. I’m not familiar with this carb at all. Any help disassembling would be great. I’ve yet to google or YouTube instructions. I’d rather see it here from members I can talk to. Thanks in advance.i did finally find model number on engine.... 326437. My eyes ain’t what they used to be. Btw it’s a Briggs 13 hp, hence the 494 badge on hood. How cool is that?


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

Forgot pics sorry


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Made your phote's large for ya.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Old school Briggs updraft two-piece Flo-jet…. Those carbs are really tricky to take apart and reassemble. Notice the large jet assembly sticking out the side of the main float bowl? There's a long, skinny, brass main nozzle that threads into the bowl housing that jet needle sits in. If you try to pry the top off the carb bowl without removing that main nozzle first, you'll break it, and it's probably corroded in there really tight. Here's a link on how to disassemble that carb. Do *NOT* try to disassemble that carb without studying this file, or you'll be sorry....
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/briggs_large_two-piece_flo-jet.asp

Those old Flo-jets were notorious for leaking fuel past that main nozzle and into the crankcase. Be sure to check your crankcase oil for fuel dilution/sludge. It'll be orange goo on the end of the dipstick, or in the oil. Sniff the oil and if it smells like stale fuel, the main nozzle has been leaking...

The O/H kit for those carbs is really cheap, but once that main nozzle starts to leak, it's almost impossible to get it to seal in the old carb body unless you know exactly what your doing. My suggestion would be to buy an aftermarket one. I bought one early this year for $35, but I can't find the link at the moment....


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Here's a link to that carb aftermarket for $42
https://www.bonanza.com/listings/Lu...-ads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=product_feed

The one I bought earlier this year was off Amazon for $32


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

good info.thanks bob....


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

thnks hoodoo....


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

By now you've probably been online and see why I said AFTERMARKET, if you decide to go with a new carb (I would). The people out there online that have a genuine OE Briggs updraft Flo-jet seem to think they have a $20 double-eagle gold piece. You'll see them asking $250 to $500. If you search for part # 391070, you'll find aftermarket for $30 to $50.

So there has to be a big difference with genuine Briggs quality?? Not really, you can't build more quality into a crappy design. The fuel leak problem comes from where the brass emulsion tube seats into the aluminum carb body. It's a metal-on-metal seal for fuel. Here's the fix you'll usually see.... See the o-ring on the emulsion tube??









That usually works, with a *VITRON* O-ring. The way I managed to find a Vitron O-ring the perfect size (without running all over town), was I had a Vitron O-ring "Kit" and did a little test sizing ($35 - same price as the aftermarket carb).

No matter which way you decide to go... The only guaranteed way not to have fuel dripping out of the carburetor, 3-days after you parked the machine, is an in-line shutoff valve.









When it's time to shutdown, close the valve, and run the float bowl dry. The carb is gravity feed.... When it's time to start, open the valve and wait 30 seconds for the float bowl to fill. I know it's a PITA, but it's way better than rebuilding that vintage Briggs because the cylinder filled up with fuel over the winter, "Hydraulic Locked", and you bent the rod


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

Here she or he is....y’all know how that is.


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

Sorry again.... I had a video for you but my phone says file is too large. Let me figure it out. May have to just send photos.


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

Here are some pics.....tried video but couldn't send it


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

Couple more


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

Bob how did carb work for you? I think I'm gonna try and rebuild mine.how do they sell for so cheap.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Wow, surprisingly in fantastic shape. That's a keeper for sure!


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Briggs doesn't actually build their carbs anymore, they farm it out to the Chinese. Even some Walbro carbs are made in China now.

I stick Chinese aftermarket carbs on all the time. 90-95% of the time, they work just as well as genuine OEM for *way* less money. A perfect example is people asking $250 for that updraft carb you have on your machine.

The genuine Briggs rebuild kit for that carb is about $18 on E-bay. The difference I've found is that if you claim a problem with an aftermarket carb, the E-bay Vendor will usually send you a replacement, or give you a refund to avoid a negative feedback. If it's a carb kit, the story is always you're an idiot and installed it wrong.

The reason I'm suggesting an aftermarket carb as opposed to rebuilding is that you're going to come across plenty of other things on that restoration that's going to take up your time. For $35, you can hear/see that engine run in under 20 minutes. If it sounds like a jackhammer, or smokes like a mosquito fogger, you can adjust your restoration plan. If you rebuild the carb and fuel pours out, you know *YOU* screwed up. If it won't start easily, it's probably a problem you haven't touched yet. Weak ignition, leaky valves, bad ring seal... The aftermarket carb quickly takes the fuel system out of the trouble-shooting equation 90-95% of the time and you can move on with the project.

I usually slap the aftermarket carb on and dial it in.... Then I call the wife down to the shop and say "Listen Honey, it actually runs, it's not the $300 rusty POS you thought when I pulled in the driveway with it" For only $35, it filters a whole lot of background noise out when you go to ordering the rest of the parts 

BTW -- That machine is in beautiful shape. It's exactly what I'm looking for when I spend hours online looking for a rare vintage machine. I'm happy for you, so I might as well get over being a little jealous. My dream is to find a Roof-Palomino for $500... NOT going to happen, but I can dream


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

Hey bob...I ordered a carb from link you sent me.the one on the tractor obviously had been into before as the emulsion tube screw has been walleered out.no way to remove it.I may try to drill it out with a left hand bit.but anyway a new one is on the way.Will the new carb have the o ring installed on tube as you mentioned it should I do it?I do have a o ring assortment kit.I think mine are nitrile.not sure.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

hornet said:


> Hey bob...I ordered a carb from link you sent me.the one on the tractor obviously had been into before as the emulsion tube screw has been walleered out.no way to remove it.I may try to drill it out with a left hand bit.but anyway a new one is on the way.Will the new carb have the o ring installed on tube as you mentioned it should I do it?I do have a o ring assortment kit.I think mine are nitrile.not sure.


Yep... There always stuck. I drop them in a pot of boiling water for 5 minutes to "swell" the aluminum body and use a Briggs "Jet Screwdriver" to get them out. Even that only works about 70% of the time on that emulsion tube

The new carb is probably *NOT* going to come with the O-ring. That's an old school fix guys figured out. Viton seals are the best for fuel systems, but they're expensive as O-rings go. The OEM's use nitrile to keep the production cost down, so you'll be fine.

Play with the sizing on that O-ring. You want something that is as small as possible and seals, but doesn't show any signs of distortion. At final assembly, lube it with just a dab of petroleum jelly to lower the risk of distorting the O-ring.

*Don't trust it*, use the inline fuel shutoff we talked about yesterday. It's way to expensive of an engine to O/H to put at any risk over a $3 fuel shutoff and a little extra time to start/shutdown. You'll be sick watching that beautiful machine go up in flames over a leaky carburetor, but you won't be the first guy it's happened to running that updraft Flo-jet...


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Bob Driver said:


> BTW -- That machine is in beautiful shape. It's exactly what I'm looking for when I spend hours online looking for a rare vintage machine. I'm happy for you, so I might as well get over being a little jealous. My dream is to find a Roof-Palomino for $500... NOT going to happen, but I can dream


I believe CF Struck Corp still makes a version of this machine called the Mini-Bleep. Folks made the Struck into all kinds of mini looking Jeeps and even a few mowers and snow plows.
https://struckcorp.com/mini-beep-amphibious-off-road-truck-extremely-popular/









Most folks can't afford the Palomino anyways. But a Mini-Beep you can and then add your own mower setup or any of the other Struck Corp attachments.
















And the manual to make one from the kit! 
https://www.manualslib.com/products/Struck-Mini-Beep-Mba80-B-3550917.html


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## hornet (Dec 18, 2019)

you the man bobby....


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Dang it bmaverick…. Now I got to go flip some z-turns for cash and build a "Mini-Beep" for the Grandkids (That's the story and I'm sticking to it). I got a 25HP horizontal-shaft Kawasaki that would be awesome for the first one.

In the Summer time, there's a "festival parade" around here almost every weekend. Slap some shop signs on it, drive it in a few parades, and I'd almost bet these ******** around here would burn the phone up wanting me to build one for them....

Seriously.... Thanks for that post!!!! I'm getting really burnt out working on z-turns and ATV's all the time. This could be a whole different direction to take the shop. I'm thinking only building 4-6 a year would probably replace the net $$$ generated by a 1/2 dozen Knuckleheads a week pulling in the driveway during mowing season and all of them wanting their machine fixed yesterday


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Bob Driver said:


> Dang it bmaverick…. Now I got to go flip some z-turns for cash and build a "Mini-Beep" for the Grandkids (That's the story and I'm sticking to it). I got a 25HP horizontal-shaft Kawasaki that would be awesome for the first one.
> 
> In the Summer time, there's a "festival parade" around here almost every weekend. Slap some shop signs on it, drive it in a few parades, and I'd almost bet these ******** around here would burn the phone up wanting me to build one for them....
> 
> Seriously.... Thanks for that post!!!! I'm getting really burnt out working on z-turns and ATV's all the time. This could be a whole different direction to take the shop. I'm thinking only building 4-6 a year would probably replace the net $$$ generated by a 1/2 dozen Knuckleheads a week pulling in the driveway during mowing season and all of them wanting their machine fixed yesterday


Before we totally take this thread off course and crash it, did you see the YT vid on these. Just think of the ******** down you way wanting to brush mow, haul hay and fish on the lake or stream with a mini-Beep aka mini Jeep !!! 







AND AFTER THIS, we return the thread back on course. LOL


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