# Kioti CX2510, 3 months old, suddenly won't start



## W E Kioti Super Genius?

I have a new CX2510. Last night I turned it off at the end of daylight. This morning I went to start it up and it won't turn over. The dealer I bought it from has been below substandard in many areas, including the assembly of the machine. I don't even want to talk to them about this. There is another dealer a couple of hours away that I can go to, and they were pleasant on the phone when they were called about the problem, but their troubleshooting over the phone only could get so far. It is the weekend and I and I am really trying to get this figured out.

Here is the list of things that I have done to troubleshoot:

1) The dash lights up when turning the key on. I hear the relays click on.
2) I tested the seat switch and tested the clutch switch. They both work. I can sit on the seat and then stand up. I can hear both safety relays click. I have not tested the PTO nor the HST switch yet. 
3) Of course I made sure the HST is in neutral, seat down, clutch pushed, PTO disengaged when trying to start.
4) I have traced some of the wiring looking for breaks but haven't found any so far. 
5) All fuses are good

I am at a loss what I should be doing to test or continue looking at.

Help


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

Further testing: jumpered the solenoid to the battery and it runs like normal. Tested the PTO safety switch and that is working. Doesn't that mean either the HST safety switch (which I can't get to yet) or one of the wires going to the switches?


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## FredM

Check the start hot wire that runs from the switch to the solenoid start spade, remove the hot wire from spade and have someone hold the switch in the start position and if you have a multimeter, set to volts and check if there is voltage at the hot wire, could be the switch, spray some contact cleaner or RP7 dewatering fluid into the innards if possible and work the switch full on and off, with the hot wire off of the solenoid spade.


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

FredM. Thank you for that. I believe you are right and since it runs after starting that demonstrates that is not any of the safety switches and wires are bad (yay!). However, to get to the ignition I would have to take the entire dash off. Since this is under warranty I will let them do that when they can get it in. I have put a temporary jumper wire in with a switch to start it. 

Thanks again!


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## FredM

Most times the safety switches will prevent the starting , but you mentioned you had checked them all, and again, jumpering like you have will bypass the safety switches as you know, even if you have a faulty safety switch the engine will still start by jumper, you are bypassing the safety circuit.


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## unsquidly

Have you had any luck with figuring this out yet?


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

Ironic that you would ask today... I dropped the tractor off at a different dealer this afternoon. (Great experience talking with them). The tech believes it is a module under the seat. Apparently in the '21 CX series the modules have a grounding problem that burns them out in a very short period of time. He says he will try to pull the seat tomorrow and let me know. I will let you know what he says.


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## unsquidly

W E Kioti Super Genius? said:


> Ironic that you would ask today... I dropped the tractor off at a different dealer this afternoon. (Great experience talking with them). The tech believes it is a module under the seat. Apparently in the '21 CX series the modules have a grounding problem that burns them out in a very short period of time. He says he will try to pull the seat tomorrow and let me know. I will let you know what he says.



Cool.....Thanks...


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

The tech called today and said it is the module under the seat. They ordered some but they are on backorder so might be a couple of weeks.


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## SidecarFlip

Is it possible to 'bypass' or jumper it?


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

I don't know if the module, by itself, can be jumpered or bypassed. I ended up bypassing the entire safety system to make mine work until they could get the tractor in for repairs. I know Kioti and the dealer do not recommend it as it potentially puts you or your tractor in danger.


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## SidecarFlip

Danger to what or to whom? Neither of my older Kubota's have any of that stuff (other than a PTO switch warning buzzer, not that they won't run with the PTO engaged and no one in the operators seat) because they will and I do when running a grain leg.

Far as I'm concerned, all those 'safety devices' are there to protect the manufacturer from liability and really do nothing positive for the operator so long as the operator deploys some common sense. If it was mine, I'd jumper it or defeat it and move on, especially if you have to foot the bill for a new one. I have none of those 'safety devices' on my 2 large frame Kubota's and candidly don't want any. I'm a responsible adult and can decide what it safe and what isn't. I can see the need for a ROPS (roll over protection device) and a seat belt, but the rest of it is superfluous to me.

All about protecting yourself from yourself and to a lesser extent, protecting the manufacturer from any liability claims caused by improper operation.


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

Oh, mine is under warranty and so everything is being covered. While the warranty remains in effect I will keep everything in place so that they are responsible for repairs. I agree with you that common sense options to turn the safety on or off should be available. But on the other side of the argument: have you seen some of the people out there?


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## SidecarFlip

I farm with mine, they aren't 'hobby tractors and thusly I don't want all the cost increasing junk anyway. I've seen my share of idiots in my 71 years. Idiots are everywhere, especially gullible ones.

I could not even comprehend of dealing with either of mine being sequestered at a dealer for weeks, waiting for some part like that. I need mine to be ready to go when I need them.

Once the warranty is kaput, if I were you, I'd be 'defeating' that stuff as necessary.

Sadly, we live in a society where the need to protect yourself from yourself has become the mantra of all mechanized equipment.


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## unsquidly

W E Kioti Super Genius? said:


> Oh, mine is under warranty and so everything is being covered. While the warranty remains in effect I will keep everything in place so that they are responsible for repairs. I agree with you that common sense options to turn the safety on or off should be available. But on the other side of the argument: have you seen some of the people out there?



The same reason that the put a warning on the packaging for fan belts that tell you not to try to install it with the engine running.....LOL


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## SidecarFlip

unsquidly said:


> The same reason that the put a warning on the packaging for fan belts that tell you not to try to install it with the engine running.....LOL


Never seen that warning on a fan belt package. In fact, I've rarely seen a fan belt in ANY packaging.


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## DukeA

I have a new cx2510 as well and I’m having the same problem. I called my local dealership and they said have someone on the tractor and go through all the normal starting sequence, now take the igniton wire off of the starter solenoid and jump it to the hot wire of the solenoid, he said it bypasses all the safety switches and should fire up. I’ve done that and it cranks over but doesn’t run. I called back and they said it sounds like the seat safety switch. I took that apart at the quick connect and jumped it out with a wire to act as the switch is closed. Still no improvement. It kind of sounds like a similar issue but not exactly the same since jumped the seat switch out. I actually had this problem last weekend. I Let it sit for a day and it fired right up! I started and stoped it 10 times this week. I Start and stopped it 5 times this morning and then after disconnecting my backhoe attachment I’m having this issue again. 
Any suggestions? Thanks


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## FredM

If your tractor is still in warranty, then this is a dealership problem, and I cannot follow what the dealer told you to do with removing this wire and touching that part, the moment you remove the ignition wire from the solenoid, there will be no power through the system, like the stop solenoid will not operate, so the engine cannot start.

Try this, remove the hot wire (the lighter wire) from the solenoid start post, this could have a spade or eyelet on the end, turn ignition on, tractor in neutral and using a remote starter switch or screw driver, bridge from battery voltage connection to starter hot wire connection on the solenoid, and the tractor should start, if it doesn't, check for voltage at the stop solenoid terminal.


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## unsquidly

DukeA said:


> I have a new cx2510 as well and I’m having the same problem. I called my local dealership and they said have someone on the tractor and go through all the normal starting sequence, now take the igniton wire off of the starter solenoid and jump it to the hot wire of the solenoid, he said it bypasses all the safety switches and should fire up. I’ve done that and it cranks over but doesn’t run. I called back and they said it sounds like the seat safety switch. I took that apart at the quick connect and jumped it out with a wire to act as the switch is closed. Still no improvement. It kind of sounds like a similar issue but not exactly the same since jumped the seat switch out. I actually had this problem last weekend. I Let it sit for a day and it fired right up! I started and stoped it 10 times this week. I Start and stopped it 5 times this morning and then after disconnecting my backhoe attachment I’m having this issue again.
> Any suggestions? Thanks



Have you tried jumpering around the neutral safety switch? That is the first place I would start.... The reason I would start with this is with it being mounted on the transmission if it is bad it will open up when it gets hot then close once it is cool. The tractor will run fine if this happens once it is running but it will not restart until the switch closes again which it when it cools off.....I had the exact same problem with the 2017 Kioti CS2210 I had. Dealer changed the neutral safety switch and problem solved.....


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

DukeA said:


> I have a new cx2510 as well and I’m having the same problem. I called my local dealership and they said have someone on the tractor and go through all the normal starting sequence, now take the igniton wire off of the starter solenoid and jump it to the hot wire of the solenoid, he said it bypasses all the safety switches and should fire up. I’ve done that and it cranks over but doesn’t run. I called back and they said it sounds like the seat safety switch. I took that apart at the quick connect and jumped it out with a wire to act as the switch is closed. Still no improvement. It kind of sounds like a similar issue but not exactly the same since jumped the seat switch out. I actually had this problem last weekend. I Let it sit for a day and it fired right up! I started and stoped it 10 times this week. I Start and stopped it 5 times this morning and then after disconnecting my backhoe attachment I’m having this issue again.
> Any suggestions? Thanks


The jumper on the starter did not bypass the safety switches when I did mine. (My jumper wire, with a switch, goes from battery connection on the starter over to the solenoid.) In fact the the following was required while using the start jumper:

The tractor had to be in neutral or the engine would turn over but never fire
The clutch had to be pushed in (even though I have an HST) or it wouldn't turn over
I had to be in the seat. Yes, even though the seat module is defective and won't allow it to start, I had to be in the seat to keep it running. I know that seems strange but that is what it takes to keep it going.
The dealer got the seat module in and I am making arrangements to get the tractor up to them to get it installed.


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## unsquidly

W E Kioti Super Genius? said:


> The jumper on the starter did not bypass the safety switches when I did mine. (My jumper wire, with a switch, goes from battery connection on the starter over to the solenoid.) In fact the the following was required while using the start jumper:
> 
> The tractor had to be in neutral or the engine would turn over but never fire
> The clutch had to be pushed in (even though I have an HST) or it wouldn't turn over
> I had to be in the seat. Yes, even though the seat module is defective and won't allow it to start, I had to be in the seat to keep it running. I know that seems strange but that is what it takes to keep it going.
> The dealer got the seat module in and I am making arrangements to get the tractor up to them to get it installed.



The is the brake pedal......HST has no clutch pedal.....This is the case on most if not all newer smaller tractors......If you set the parking brake you don't have to push the pedal....Also, you can take your hand and push down on the middle of the seat and apply enough pressure to trip the seat switch.....


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## FredM

My Kubota has a clutch pedal where it should be and it is also a HST.


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## unsquidly

FredM said:


> My Kubota has a clutch pedal where it should be and it is also a HST.



Hmmmm.....Ok.....Unless his is different then every other Kioti HST I have ever had or seen, it don't.....Just twin pedals for HST drive and a brake pedal.....

So you have the single HST pedal for the HST drive and then a clutch and a brake pedal on your Kubota?


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## FredM

Yep!!
the clutch is on the left, two brake pedals on the right and the forward/reverse HST pedal closer to the transmission on the right hand side.

I'll attach a couple of photos if you want!!.


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

It's too dark outside to take a picture so here it is from the manual.


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## unsquidly

W E Kioti Super Genius? said:


> It's too dark outside to take a picture so here it is from the manual.
> 
> View attachment 75570



I don't need to see the manual......I know exactly what your tractor looks like.......I had one just like it for 3 years.....

Edit: My apology. I just reread this thread and saw the picture from your manual.......I did not realize that the CX models had a clutch pedal.........I stand corrected....


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## unsquidly

FredM said:


> Yep!!
> the clutch is on the left, two brake pedals on the right and the forward/reverse HST pedal closer to the transmission on the right hand side.
> 
> I'll attach a couple of photos if you want!!.



I believe ya, Fred.......I just have not ever seen a HST model small tractor with a clutch pedal.....That is a new one on me and not really sure why a HST drive would need one.....


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## FredM

unsquidly said:


> I believe ya, Fred.......I just have not ever seen a HST model small tractor with a clutch pedal.....That is a new one on me and not really sure why a HST drive would need one.....


Most likely because the tractor has a high/low gear shift, a 540 PTO and a separate 1000 PTO unsquidly, I have to place the high/low into neutral to start, and also have to declutch to engage either of the PTO's, otherwise I would be grinding the gear teeth smooth, almost forgot, and there is the 4WD engagement as well,


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## unsquidly

FredM said:


> Most likely because the tractor has a high/low gear shift, a 540 PTO and a separate 1000 PTO unsquidly, I have to place the high/low into neutral to start, and also have to declutch to engage either of the PTO's, otherwise I would be grinding the gear teeth smooth, almost forgot, and there is the 4WD engagement as well,


All HST tractors that I have ever owned have at least a high/low range for the HST drive...The current Kioti that I have has a 3 range HST drive and no clutch pedal. My current one has a switch to engage and disengage the rear PTO but it only has the 540 speed PTO then the lever to engage the front axel for 4 wheel drive.....


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## dhoops

W E Kioti Super Genius? said:


> The jumper on the starter did not bypass the safety switches when I did mine. (My jumper wire, with a switch, goes from battery connection on the starter over to the solenoid.) In fact the the following was required while using the start jumper:
> 
> The tractor had to be in neutral or the engine would turn over but never fire
> The clutch had to be pushed in (even though I have an HST) or it wouldn't turn over
> I had to be in the seat. Yes, even though the seat module is defective and won't allow it to start, I had to be in the seat to keep it running. I know that seems strange but that is what it takes to keep it going.
> The dealer got the seat module in and I am making arrangements to get the tractor up to them to get it installed.
> 
> 
> 
> Did the module fix your issue? I have had to Pto light on on mine for 2 months they put 2 new dash board clusters in it and that hasn't fixed it. They are now ordering safety control unit which is under the seat. It controls all the safety switches.


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## unsquidly

Do you have the same model?


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## dhoops

unsquidly said:


> Do you have the same model?


Yes i do . Bought it in april has had a new sub wiring harness on it less than a month old now been dealing with this issue.


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## Tumblindown

dhoops said:


> Yes i do . Bought it in april has had a new sub wiring harness on it less than a month old now been dealing with this issue.


I have a CX2510 HST. Now I'm worried and my Tractor is 1,400 miles away. Bought it in July and it only has 30 hours on it. Won't be back up to where it is until June-July.

Hope that, if the problem shows up, it's within the warranty period. Which is what...?? I forgot. One year on other-than-drivetyrain?? Dunno.


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## unsquidly

Tumblindown said:


> I have a CX2510 HST. Now I'm worried and my Tractor is 1,400 miles away. Bought it in July and it only has 30 hours on it. Won't be back up to where it is until June-July.
> 
> Hope that, if the problem shows up, it's within the warranty period. Which is what...?? I forgot. One year on other-than-drivetyrain?? Dunno.


Should be 2 years "bumper to bumper" and 7 power train.....Local dealer says that he has not seen this to be a common problem over all on Kioti tractors.....


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## Tumblindown

unsquidly said:


> Should be 2 years "bumper to bumper" and 7 power train.....Local dealer says that he has not seen this to be a common problem over all on Kioti tractors.....


I wonder if it's not a matter of 'who assembles them'? They come in packed in crates, don't they? Aren't they mostly 'RTA' (ready to assemble)or 'KD'( Knockdown) for shipping purposes and the Dealer has to put them together?

At least that's what I assume. And you know what 'assume' means...


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## unsquidly

Tumblindown said:


> I wonder if it's not a matter of 'who assembles them'? They come in packed in crates, don't they? Aren't they mostly 'RTA' (ready to assemble)or 'KD'( Knockdown) for shipping purposes and the Dealer has to put them together?
> 
> At least that's what I assume. And you know what 'assume' means...



They do come in crates, the new one I bought this spring was still in the crate when I went to look at it......Mainly wheels and tires, seat and any deal installed attachments is all that need to be assembled by the dealer.....Not sure how much is required on the cab models.....Mine is an open station.....


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## SidecarFlip

My M9 Cabin tractor shipped complete in a 40 foot container with 2 more. Kubota removes the left side and right side wheels on each one to get them into a container, so they clear the top of the container. Dealer has a picture of them in a container. Smaller ones ship in angle iron frames that the dealer returns to Kubota. Wheels and tires are packed with the unit in the frame. Way back when I used to haul John Deere's out of Horicon, Wisconsin, JD shipped theirs the same way, in angle iron frames. You always dropped your trailer in the holding lot and JD employees would load it and secure them to the trailer. All you did was haul them to the respective dealer. Used to deliver a lot of them in the PA and NJ area.


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## W E Kioti Super Genius?

The module fixed my tractor's issue instantly. The dealer I now use has 3 locations and they stated that they have had to replace quite a few of these modules. They keep multiple on hand because of it.

I'm not certain on how long the defective ones were made and installed in the tractors as compared to when the updated ones entered the assembly line.

I have to look again but I think mine came with a two year, 2000 hour warranty. I will verify that later and let you know.


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## SidecarFlip

The main reason why I don't want any tractor that has electronic controls. Not that it's all bad but with supply chain economics screwed up, if your dealer (or any dealer for that matter) don't have one, getting one can turn into a nightmare and all that time, you are dead in the water.

Case in point, I have a cracked fuse block on one of my M9's and there aren't any, anywhere in the system so it's ordered but when it physically shows up is conjecture. I was able to 'jury rig' it but it needs replacement when it finally shows up, which could be next week or next month or a year from now. No one knows.

Why dealers don't have any tractors as well. My dealer is getting incomplete tractors delivered. Tractors without loaders or tractors missing parts that are on order but when they show up is a crap shoot. Like I said in another post, Kioti dealers have to have a signed purchase contract and a deposit before Kioti will build and ship a unit. That came from a Kioti dealer's parts manager that I happen to know personally. They have zero floor planned units in stock btw., and they sell a lo of them. Not a dealer mandate, a corporate mandate. If it's true or not, I have no idea, just something I was told during the course of a conversation.

Keep in mind that most new tractors are made offshore and have to come in containers and those containers have to be offloaded and the traffic jam at container ports causes huge delays.

I didn't cause the mess but I still have to deal with it, like it or not.

One thing I'm finding interesting is the lack of QC in the stuff that is getting delivered. I've 'fixed' a number of screw up's for my dealer in poorly fitted parts. Never did that before. Bad welds, bad alignment of assemblies and overall lack of attention to assemblies. Things that should not happen are popping up. Glad I can fix them but not something I really want to see (or repair).

The more electronics involved, the better chance for failure and I think we all know that none of those components are made domestically so, if a dealer don't have the 'module' and there aren't any to be had, you as the end use gets screwed. No one's fault other than supply chain economics and we as end users have no control over that. No point in whining about it to a dealer as they have no control over supply chain economics either. Everyone is in the same boat.


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## unsquidly

W E Kioti Super Genius? said:


> The module fixed my tractor's issue instantly. The dealer I now use has 3 locations and they stated that they have had to replace quite a few of these modules. They keep multiple on hand because of it.
> 
> I'm not certain on how long the defective ones were made and installed in the tractors as compared to when the updated ones entered the assembly line.
> 
> I have to look again but I think mine came with a two year, 2000 hour warranty. I will verify that later and let you know.



What year is yours?


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## Quinn the Eskimo

I’m late to the dance, but my new CX2510 came with a factory shunt for the seat switch. Apparently that switch can be a problem…


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## SidecarFlip

Better late than never. For years, I've used a straightened out paper clip as a 'shunt' for troublesome presence switches. In fact, I have one securely inserted in my seat switch on my zero turn mower.


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## unsquidly

Quinn the Eskimo said:


> I’m late to the dance, but my new CX2510 came with a factory shunt for the seat switch. Apparently that switch can be a problem…



My new CK3510 came with this also......My local dealer says that the seat switch is not usually a problem but the neutral safety switch on the CS models is.....The CS2410 that I had went through 2 in the first 6 months then no more problems after that....LOL


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## Crown Hill

W E Kioti Super Genius? said:


> I don't know if the module, by itself, can be jumpered or bypassed. I ended up bypassing the entire safety system to make mine work until they could get the tractor in for repairs. I know Kioti and the dealer do not recommend it as it potentially puts you or your tractor in danger.


I cut the wires and twisted them together and used a heat shrink to protect/seal the connection. I believe in safety but needing to be on the machine to have it run is going too far. How do you run a PTO generator like that? Does your car or truck have this safety feature? And I always warm my tractor up for a few minutes before using it and I'm certainly not sitting on the seat for 5 minutes waiting for that to happen.


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## classicdmax

new to the forum and joining the fight here
im having the same issues on a 2020. it started with intermittent no start and i assumed it was a safety switch on the fritz. then turned into a no start situation, i was able to bypass by jumping starter as instructed by dealer. now i cant get it to start at all. i hear no relays firing when turning ignition on, i can jump at starter but all it does is turn over....does not fire. been waiting on my dealer a bit as their tech has been out for a while. machine has been dead for couple weeks now and im falling behind in my chores. ive read through this chat a couple times, can i bypass relay under seat somehow to test for fault?
thanks
j


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## pogobill

Not sure what fight you are joining. You should probably go through your safety switches, one at a time, to determine if one of them is an issue. 
After all the jump starting, I'd check the battery connections, from the battery through to the starter and to the ground. See if that clears up the no-start.


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## LouNY

If a diesel in new or good shape cranks but doesn't start it's not getting fuel.
Energize or manually operate your fuel shut down and it will start if cranking over.


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## classicdmax

My thoughts as well but fear it’s deeper than just safety switches and injection pump. It’s also been a while since glow plugs were firing….related or not I do not know. I haven’t had a ton of free time to dive into it but think I’m going to have to start since my dealer is slow to pick it up. I’m inclined to have them do work since it’s still a warranty issue


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## LouNY

classicdmax said:


> My thoughts as well but fear it’s deeper than just safety switches and injection pump. It’s also been a while since glow plugs were firing….related or not I do not know. I haven’t had a ton of free time to dive into it but think I’m going to have to start since my dealer is slow to pick it up. I’m inclined to have them do work since it’s still a warranty issue


Yes under warranty get after them to get it running correctly.
Your glow plug operation will depend upon your tractor,
per your manual are they automatically applied or manually from your key operation.


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## classicdmax

LouNY said:


> Yes under warranty get after them to get it running correctly.
> Your glow plug operation will depend upon your tractor,
> per your manual are they automatically applied or manually from your key operation.


Turn key backwards and hold for manual glow plug action, turn key to run position glow plugs cycle automatically. Tractor is a cx2510. I don’t use machine much in winter other than to move my trailers around, glow plugs started to fail early winter with just a split second auto cycle, I couldn’t activate manually either. Then they stopped all together and stopped hearing relay clicking as well. All fuses look good. Played phone tag today with dealer…well see
Thanks for input


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## unsquidly

classicdmax said:


> Turn key backwards and hold for manual glow plug action, turn key to run position glow plugs cycle automatically. Tractor is a cx2510. I don’t use machine much in winter other than to move my trailers around, glow plugs started to fail early winter with just a split second auto cycle, I couldn’t activate manually either. Then they stopped all together and stopped hearing relay clicking as well. All fuses look good. Played phone tag today with dealer…well see
> Thanks for input



Don't let your local dealer jack you around too much.....If it gets bad, let me know and I will call my local dealer which is owned by a buddy of mine and get you a number to someone at Kioti that will step in and help you out.....I know of a couple of people that have done this and it worked....


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## SidecarFlip

Where you been? I missed your wit?


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## unsquidly

SidecarFlip said:


> Where you been? I missed your wit?



Thanks.......Long story short, I only allow myself to spend time on this and a few other forums the nights that I am out overnight.....I had to have a sinus and ear surgery and was off work for 3 weeks......I guess I forgot to pass this information along here.....Several folks have sent me pms wondering what was up......Nice to be missed......Thanks....I am back now.....


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## smarlb3

I have the same tractor and the same problem CX2510 2022. How did you start the tractor by bypassing the solenoid. I dont want to short something out. If I connect a hot line to the starter side I get a high speed spin sound but not a catch to the starter. It is a real pain to have a brand new tractor that wont start.


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## FredM

smarlb3 said:


> I have the same tractor and the same problem CX2510 2022. How did you start the tractor by bypassing the solenoid. I dont want to short something out. If I connect a hot line to the starter side I get a high speed spin sound but not a catch to the starter. It is a real pain to have a brand new tractor that wont start.


 new tractor and no warranty??.

Buy yourself a remote start switch, connect one lead to battery pole on solenoid and the other lead to the hot wire spade on the solenoid, turn ignition on (make sure tractor is in neutral) and press the remote starter button, if the solenoid is ok, then the tractor should start and you have a problem with the start circuit,(ignition switch, safety sensors) if the solenoid doesn't engage then you have a solenoid problem.

What you did was bridge high amperage to the starter motor only, you need the solenoid to engage the bendix drive to turn the engine over for starting.


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## smarlb3

Thanks. The tractor is under warranty but i am trying to avoid having to go to the dealer before 50 hours so I can get a service plus repair any other issue. 

I had left the tractor outside 2 days ago and it rained. The next day it wouldnt start. I checked the ohms on the seat switch and it read 5 ohms. My understanding is that is should read 22. Today I checked it and it started. I ran it for a 2 hours and then shut it off and it started right up. I put it back in the barn. I hope there is no further issue until I can get it to the dealer. 

Bridging the leads works on older cars, but I will get a remote start incase I have the same issue when I am trying to load it on the trailer.

Thanks for your help.


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## StudeHudson

Ok, I have the same "no start" issue. This is an CK3510SE HST 2022 model. 
Less than 40 hours. Was using tractor to push a small brush pile to burn. Turned off to do some manual labor
and got back on, turned key- dash lights came on, normal "werring" sounds but no engine turn or start. 
Looked for torn wires and such. I did find two wires broken underneath the trans close to the HST filter. Strange as they looked clipped off at same location and not torn. Anyway, prepped the ends and wired back using squeeze connectors. 
Still nothing. 
Jumped from battery to starter solenoid and had wife to set in seat and turn key to "on" position. Cranked and started right up so I drove it to my shop about 100 yards away. Set overnight with trickle charger hooked up. Fully charged. Same no crank/start the next morning.
Checked seat switch, had 22 ohms with seat being set on, so it's ok according to others posts.
Went back to wires under trans. Temporary wired together to by pass the sensor or solenoid on trans and check with voltage meter, showed 4 volts with key on. Not sure what this means except some voltage going thru. 
Next??


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## StudeHudson

doing more research, looks like the item underneath and beside the transmission is this
modulator valve (pto clutch)
Operating pressure inspection


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## FredM

StudeHudson, before bridging two wires like you have, you need to check the circuit of the wiring, what looks to be a solenoid attached to the servo would have one wire being hot when the switch is turned on and the other would be an earth return to make the solenoid circuit, twitching together would give you a direct short and if your tractor is ECU controlled, be careful then.

You will need to trace out the start circuit, is there a safety sensor on the gear shift linkage, even the clutch pedal and also the PTO wiring, also need to read the start spade on the ignition switch with the key turned to start, the switch could be going faulty.


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## LouNY

With it starting good bypassing everything it sounds like a safety interlock. It could be a bad switch or wiring but my first thought would be a safety interlock.


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## StudeHudson

FredM said:


> StudeHudson, before bridging two wires like you have, you need to check the circuit of the wiring, what looks to be a solenoid attached to the servo would have one wire being hot when the switch is turned on and the other would be an earth return to make the solenoid circuit, twitching together would give you a direct short and if your tractor is ECU controlled, be careful then.
> You will need to trace out the start circuit, is there a safety sensor on the gear shift linkage, even the clutch pedal and also the PTO wiring, also need to read the start spade on the ignition switch with the key turned to start, the switch could be going faulty.


I am trying to find a complete wiring diagram for this tractor, have not found one at this time.
#3 is the solenoid. Anyway, I wired the unit back up as original. Jumped the starter solenoid with key on, and tractor started right up and runs. For now I have a temporary start switch wired up so that I can run the tractor and load it on trailer if necessary. 
I will start chasing/checking the safety interlocks if I find a diagram.


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## StudeHudson

Problem solved!!
I feel dumb but glad I found the issue. I purchased an on-line workshop manual and started going thru it. Came to the page discussing the PTO control knob mounted on the right fender. You have to push down and turn it to the "on position" for pto to become active. Push down and turn back and it pops up to the off position.
The bucket control arm/handle is mounted on the same side and when you pull the handle back and to the right, it actually touches the yellow pto control knob. I have never run the pto and I think while using the bucket/grapple control, the pto control got pushed into the "active" position when the bucket handle hit it. This is what the manual says-
The PTO switch is installed on the fender of the right
side from the seat. When the PTO main switch is OFF,
the PTO system is deactivated.
Also, when the ECU receives an ON signal from the PTO main switch, it
sends no signal to the start motor relay so cranking of
the start motor is not performed. (Safety measure)
A light bulb went off in my head when I read that so I went and checked, sure enough the switch was in active mode.
Turned to the "off" position and the tractor cranked up and started right away----


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## LouNY

StudeHudson said:


> Problem solved!!
> I feel dumb but glad I found the issue. I purchased an on-line workshop manual and started going thru it. Came to the page discussing the PTO control knob mounted on the right fender. You have to push down and turn it to the "on position" for pto to become active. Push down and turn back and it pops up to the off position.
> The bucket control arm/handle is mounted on the same side and when you pull the handle back and to the right, it actually touches the yellow pto control knob. I have never run the pto and I think while using the bucket/grapple control, the pto control got pushed into the "active" position when the bucket handle hit it. This is what the manual says-
> The PTO switch is installed on the fender of the right
> side from the seat. When the PTO main switch is OFF,
> the PTO system is deactivated.
> Also, when the ECU receives a ON signal from the PTO main switch, it
> sends no signal to the start motor relay so cranking of
> the start motor is not performed. (Safety measure)
> A light bulb went off in my head when I read that so I went and checked, sure enough the switch was in active mode.
> Turned to the "off" position and the tractor cranked up and started right away----
> View attachment 83442


Don't feel bad about that at all.
A while after I got my Branson 8050 I had used the pto frequently while mowing with different mounted mowers.
Put it on a hay tedder one afternoon and tedded hay with went out the next morning and we couldn't get the pto to turn on.
Between the 3 of us standing there trying to get it working we had over 140 years of tractor experience, 
It turns out on that tractor the lift arms have to be moved up a bit every time the tractor is started for the pto to work.
We had no clue and just happen to hit the external 3 point lift switch and all of a sudden the pto is working.
Read the manual that night cover to cover and no mention of that in it.


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## unsquidly

StudeHudson said:


> Problem solved!!
> I feel dumb but glad I found the issue. I purchased an on-line workshop manual and started going thru it. Came to the page discussing the PTO control knob mounted on the right fender. You have to push down and turn it to the "on position" for pto to become active. Push down and turn back and it pops up to the off position.
> The bucket control arm/handle is mounted on the same side and when you pull the handle back and to the right, it actually touches the yellow pto control knob. I have never run the pto and I think while using the bucket/grapple control, the pto control got pushed into the "active" position when the bucket handle hit it. This is what the manual says-
> The PTO switch is installed on the fender of the right
> side from the seat. When the PTO main switch is OFF,
> the PTO system is deactivated.
> Also, when the ECU receives an ON signal from the PTO main switch, it
> sends no signal to the start motor relay so cranking of
> the start motor is not performed. (Safety measure)
> A light bulb went off in my head when I read that so I went and checked, sure enough the switch was in active mode.
> Turned to the "off" position and the tractor cranked up and started right away----
> View attachment 83442



That is strange......They must have changed the joystick from 2021 to 2022......I have a 2021 CK3510 and mine does not come back far enough to even come close to touching the PTO knob.......


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## LouNY

unsquidly said:


> That is strange......They must have changed the joystick from 2021 to 2022......I have a 2021 CK3510 and mine does not come back far enough to even come close to touching the PTO knob.......


I wonder is that a cable operated joystick, if so the cables could be mis adjusted.


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## unsquidly

LouNY said:


> I wonder is that a cable operated joystick, if so the cables could be mis adjusted.


I don't think it is cable operated but it looks to me like it is installed wrong or something to have it in the wrong place...Like I said, mine in any position does not even come close to touching the PTO switch......


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## StudeHudson

It looks like the fender mount for the switch is factory as I can see a welded on bracket holder. 
The front loader control lever goes straight into a hydraulic manifold which has the hydraulic hoses attached. 
No cables or levers. 
I think at this point, I will see if I can put enough bend into the lever arm to have it clear the fender mounted switch.


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