# Ford 2110 - Injector Pump



## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

Has any of you guys ever removed an injector pump from this tractor ? 

The pump has been out of order for some time and I had a guy come over today to pull it so I could get it rebuilt.

However, it looks to us like a major undertaking because of the front lower stud. It will not allow the nut to come off because it hit the part of the engine where the oil filter connects. 

Must one remove the "whole shebang" - meaning the drive assembly at the front of the engine?

I really need some help with this. I sure need that thing operating:tractorsm.

Many thanks,

Jim


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

You need to get a shop manual to re-install and time the pump. There are timing marks on the timing gears that have to be lined up. An I&T manual costs about $35 and will be adequate for this purpose. You can get a manual at tractor supply stores, or on ebay.

Attached are two diagrams illustrating injector pump setup for a 4 cylinder 2110 (1983-1986), and a breakdown of the pump itself.

You will have to remove the front timing gear cover to access the drive gear inside the cover. Remove the hood?, nose piece, radiator, fan, etc., to get to the timing gear cover.

Remove the center nut on the pump drive gear and it may have a woodruff key to align with the shaft. Be sure to put scribe marks on outside of the pump where it goes into the timing cover, and inside on the drive gear where it mounts to the hub, and aligns with timing gears, so you can get it back to where it was originally. There are timing marks on the outer edge of all the gears for timing. 

When you get it all back together, make sure that ALL of the timing gear marks on the gears align up. I think there are 4 sets of timing marks to align.


----------



## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

" You will have to remove the front timing gear cover to access the drive gear inside cover. Remove the hood, nose piece, radiator, fan, etc., to get to the timing gear cover".

Thanks. I believe the above piece of info answered the question about getting the sucker off. I may just load it up and take it to a shop, lol. 

Thanks also for the files. They'll be a big help if I decide to tackle it. I guess it will cost a fortune if I take it to a shop.


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

A new pump lists for $1,994. Japanese tractor parts are very expensive. Get your old pump rebuilt. 

On the diagram for your pump, what does levers #25 and #35 do? Is one a shut-off lever? I wonder if your shut-off mechanism is stuck closed??


----------



## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

sixbales said:


> A new pump lists for $1,994. Japanese tractor parts are very expensive. Get your old pump rebuilt.
> 
> On the diagram for your pump, what does levers #25 and #35 do? Is one a shut-off lever? I wonder if your shut-off mechanism is stuck closed??


Man, do I wish :headclap:!?!?! That's exactly how it seems!!

Apparently there were more than one model of the pump used on these machines.
There is only the throttle valve on mine.

Guess I'd better prepare myself for a really huge shop bill on this thing !

Thanks a lot.


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Your pump may be manufactured by Shibura?? I see from previous posts that you shut it off with the hand throttle. So, maybe the fuel shut-off is incorporated into the throttle?? It might be worthwhile to disconnect the throttle cable at the pump and work the lever repeatedly on the pump to see if you can get the shut-off function to free up. Just a thought.


----------



## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

sixbales said:


> Your pump may be manufactured by Shibura?? I see from previous posts that you shut it off with the hand throttle. So, maybe the fuel shut-off is incorporated into the throttle?? It might be worthwhile to disconnect the throttle cable at the pump and work the lever repeatedly on the pump to see if you can get the shut-off function to free up. Just a thought.


I did notice that there is a "screw/bolt" that goes into the pump next to where the throttle rod goes in. I guess that would be where #35 is shown on the diagram.

So it seems that what you are saying, then, is that throttle or not, the inside parts may be stuck in the closed position?

Thanks,

Jim


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Yes, but this is pure speculation on my part. 

Don't mess with any "screw/bolts" as they probably have adjustment settings, or maybe even support something internally. 

What I'm guessing is that the throttle lever on the pump at one extremity shuts off the fuel internally in the pump, and the shut-off function is stuck closed. My thought was by disconnecting the throttle rod, and maybe by working the throttle lever on the pump repeatedly, you may be able to get the fuel shutoff function working again. The odds are not good..


----------

