# '58 IH Utility 350 project



## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Bought this tractor as a non runner, thought it was a 300u, truns out it is a 350u. motor was stuck, got that freed up, on my way to getting it started soo (hopefully), thought I'd share some vidoes of work I've done to date. Here is the link to the playlist:
http://www.youtube.com/view_all_playlists

And here is the latest video, Part 6:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-oGPWmmFrg[/ame]


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Part 7:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhofGBZwPpo[/ame]


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*Still working on the 350U*

I expect to be attempting a start soon!

Here is Part 14:

[ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rhzVPM2YJk[/ame]


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Here are Parts 15 and 16:

Part 15:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ue4j554bAI&feature=relmfu[/ame]

Part 16:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KZ9hD9DBccY&feature=relmfu[/ame]

I'll be uploading video of the first start attempt real soon!


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*Almost there! The engine sputters......*

Part 17:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kx8HCZWV8Q[/ame]


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Looking good! I notice that your battery is in the back behind the seat. Is that the stock location? The reason I ask is because my '56 350 has the battery ahead of the shifter sort of under the dash/fuel tank area. Its just behind the steering column. That's where it has been since day one, and I have never seen one back there. In fact, on the kerosene versions of that tractor, there was a small gasoline tank back there that would be used for starting and warming up the engine before it was switched to burn kerosene. Its possible that the battery was moved on the later versions of the tractor. I have a factory-option tool box in that area.

As for the sediment bowl assembly, the tube that broke off yours is the pickup tube. It was designed to pick up fuel a bit above the bottom of the tank so any trash, sediment, or water would collect in the bottom of the tank and not be introduced into the fuel stream. Personally, I'd replace the fuel bowl assembly with a new one for that reason. I know you have another filter in line (there should be a fine screen at the inlet to the carb) but every bit helps.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> Looking good! I notice that your battery is in the back behind the seat. Is that the stock location? The reason I ask is because my '56 350 has the battery ahead of the shifter sort of under the dash/fuel tank area. Its just behind the steering column. That's where it has been since day one, and I have never seen one back there. In fact, on the kerosene versions of that tractor, there was a small gasoline tank back there that would be used for starting and warming up the engine before it was switched to burn kerosene. Its possible that the battery was moved on the later versions of the tractor. I have a factory-option tool box in that area.
> 
> As for the sediment bowl assembly, the tube that broke off yours is the pickup tube. It was designed to pick up fuel a bit above the bottom of the tank so any trash, sediment, or water would collect in the bottom of the tank and not be introduced into the fuel stream. Personally, I'd replace the fuel bowl assembly with a new one for that reason. I know you have another filter in line (there should be a fine screen at the inlet to the carb) but every bit helps.


Hi! I do not know if it is the stock location, or if somebody just decided to move it there. It seems to be a perfect spot for it, and since my current battery is an oversized truck one, I'll be keeping it there for now. It is also out of the way of the steering gear that I will have to be messing with soon enough. I agree with the replacement of the sediment bowl, but I'm not bothering with that untill I know I can get the steering issues worked out. 

I hope to be getting the tractor loaded on a trailer, and moved home soon, then I can try to get the steering working.

Regards,
Steve W.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Part 18:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLTJa...feature=relmfu[/ame]

Part 19:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=051iex9zmyA[/ame]


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

I didn't get time to finish watching the last video, but you are correct that the mounting boss on the right side of the seat area is for another hydraulic control valve (or two). Do you have an owner's manual for your tractor? If not, I can look things up for you in mine. I also have an I&T manual for my 350. Let me know if you ever need some info on it. If I get some time, I'll post pics of my 350 to show you the differences.

You got me going now. My 350 hadn't been used since late summer because it started to sputter, and then my dad stole a sparkplug wire off of it for our 547 because a cow ate it when he was cleaning barn (she actually chewed and swallowed the wire!). I drained the fuel tank and carb last night and found some water in the bottom of both. I plan to refill them and then dump a can of Seafoam in there to clean things out. The battery is also toast because it got discharged after I left the key on the last time I worked on it. I'll have to see if I can get it charged back up again. Hopefully, I can get it in the shop this winter and fix it up so I can repaint it this coming spring. She's getting pretty weathered and I'd like to make it look good again for my dad.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> I didn't get time to finish watching the last video, but you are correct that the mounting boss on the right side of the seat area is for another hydraulic control valve (or two). Do you have an owner's manual for your tractor? If not, I can look things up for you in mine. I also have an I&T manual for my 350. Let me know if you ever need some info on it. If I get some time, I'll post pics of my 350 to show you the differences.
> 
> You got me going now. My 350 hadn't been used since late summer because it started to sputter, and then my dad stole a sparkplug wire off of it for our 547 because a cow ate it when he was cleaning barn (she actually chewed and swallowed the wire!). I drained the fuel tank and carb last night and found some water in the bottom of both. I plan to refill them and then dump a can of Seafoam in there to clean things out. The battery is also toast because it got discharged after I left the key on the last time I worked on it. I'll have to see if I can get it charged back up again. Hopefully, I can get it in the shop this winter and fix it up so I can repaint it this coming spring. She's getting pretty weathered and I'd like to make it look good again for my dad.


I have the IT manual, better than nothing, but not as detailed as the shop manual. But I'm not shelling out the money for a shop manual. Gotta love Seafoam! Great stuff. If I think of any info I need from the operator's manual, I'll let you know. I ight get lucky and find a PDF of it online.

Regards,
Steve W.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

I could probably scan it in for you, but I'll have to set aside some time to do it. IIRC, its about 40-50 pages long.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> I could probably scan it in for you, but I'll have to set aside some time to do it. IIRC, its about 40-50 pages long.


Wow, That would be great! Thanks!

Steve.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*Hydraulics work!*

Part 20:
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_DxoaHHQIs[/ame]


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*Steering gear woes.....*

I've got parts 20 thru 26 uploaded now, not going to list every link, but here is Part 26:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O66ZXJcbVoo[/ame]


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

The bearing and race you need are still available from CaseIH. Race part # 366145R1, Bearing part # 365954R91 

My 350 is manual steering, and if you are doing any loader work, you will appreciate the power steering system. The steering box was a weak point on these tractors, as we rebuilt ours a few times over the years, and it always gets sloppy after a few years of use. I am going to rebuild it again this winter and see if I can figure out why it is that way. I was thinking of converting mine to power steering, but I'd have to buy all the parts necessary to do so. Have you tried checking out any junkyards for parts? I use www.tractorpartsasap.com because they have a yard close to me.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> The bearing and race you need are still available from CaseIH. Race part # 366145R1, Bearing part # 365954R91
> 
> My 350 is manual steering, and if you are doing any loader work, you will appreciate the power steering system. The steering box was a weak point on these tractors, as we rebuilt ours a few times over the years, and it always gets sloppy after a few years of use. I am going to rebuild it again this winter and see if I can figure out why it is that way. I was thinking of converting mine to power steering, but I'd have to buy all the parts necessary to do so. Have you tried checking out any junkyards for parts? I use www.tractorpartsasap.com because they have a yard close to me.


Hi Country Boy! Not sure where you heard these parts were still available, but if you plug these numbers into the CASE/IH website, you get "no product found". I even called a dealer this morning after reading your post, just to make sure, and he said NLA from Case/IH. He is going to make some calls for me, but sounds like a longshot.

As for salvage yards, none of them want to sell any parts internal to the steering gear. They all want to sell the complete gearbox, and they all want pretty big dollars for what might amount to a box that is well worn. The bushings used in these boxes, as well as the seals and gasket appear to still be available, but the bearing I need, that was onyl apparently used on the power steering version of the 300U and 350U is NLA. Thanks for thinking of me though.

Did you ever consider the kit that converts the manual models to power steering?

I think the whole setup runs about $1300. You leave the old gear in place to keep the tires tracking together, but the new steering wheel turns a steering valve (Orbitrol), that operates a pair of hydraulic cylinders. I can't do this on mine because the steering gear is completely broken, so the wheels will have nothing to keep them tracking properly. I'd have to rig some type of tie rod set up, but the utes have such low clearance up front, making it near impossible. Here is a link:

http://jacksonpowersteering.com/


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

I checked the bearing numbers on Messicks website (http://www.messicks.com/) and they didn't mention them being out of stock. Perhaps I spoke too soon. I don't think power steering was all that common on the tractors of that era, so there probably weren't many of them built that way, which makes stocking parts for them unattractive for the company. The front hubs and spindles are obsolete too, so I had to get some junk yard ones when mine wore out completely.

I just looked at the link you showed, and it looks pretty cool, though my dad want's to restore the tractor to original condition. I just picked up a carb kit for it today and plan to rebuild the carb tomorrow after soaking it at work for a few hours.

Try looking around on CaseIH's website and see if the steering box was used on any of the later tractors like the 330, 340, and the like. You can try looking on Tractordata.com for the different model numbers and then cross check them on the CaseIH website. Many of them from the late '50s and early '60s had steering systems that looked near identical.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

On another note, are there any bearing numbers on the bearing or race? Sometimes the company that built the bearing can supply it. Either that, or check with a local bearing supply store and see if they have anything that could match or be close enough to use with shims or by machining something. I've done that sometimes at work when bearings are obsolete on lawn and garden equipment.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> I checked the bearing numbers on Messicks website (http://www.messicks.com/) and they didn't mention them being out of stock. Perhaps I spoke too soon. I don't think power steering was all that common on the tractors of that era, so there probably weren't many of them built that way, which makes stocking parts for them unattractive for the company. The front hubs and spindles are obsolete too, so I had to get some junk yard ones when mine wore out completely.
> 
> I just looked at the link you showed, and it looks pretty cool, though my dad want's to restore the tractor to original condition. I just picked up a carb kit for it today and plan to rebuild the carb tomorrow after soaking it at work for a few hours.
> 
> Try looking around on CaseIH's website and see if the steering box was used on any of the later tractors like the 330, 340, and the like. You can try looking on Tractordata.com for the different model numbers and then cross check them on the CaseIH website. Many of them from the late '50s and early '60s had steering systems that looked near identical.


They redesigned (improved) the steering gear on later models, and eliminated the bearing. they just made the shaft longer, and allowed it to be supported by a bushing in the case at both ends. The bearing supply house struck out. might have to call Messicks and see what they say. $160 for one bearing? Guess they know how tough it is to get.

Thanks,
Steve.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> On another note, are there any bearing numbers on the bearing or race? Sometimes the company that built the bearing can supply it. Either that, or check with a local bearing supply store and see if they have anything that could match or be close enough to use with shims or by machining something. I've done that sometimes at work when bearings are obsolete on lawn and garden equipment.


Ol bearing is a MCGill bearing, I think the number was BR-102. Mcgill was bought out by Emerson power, Emerson power engineering told me they no longer make it, and have no cross, or anything like it. Two bearing houses struck out with that number, and googling it gets you nowhere, or leads you to a newer bearing that is not even close. This bearing is way unique. The inner race is the shaft itself. The bearing has to be assembled onto the shaft, so it can clear the sector gear. Never seen anything like it before.

Steve.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*So now what?*

I've come to a crossroads with my 350U project. Bought this as a non runner, rebuilt the head, and got the motor running sweet only to find the power steering gear is broken. Tore the box down and found 2 issues. A small toothed bar called the rack is broken. Apparently a common issue because these are being sold aftermarket on a couple sites. the bigger problem is the special roller bearing that was used in this short lived configuration. this bearing does not exist in the manual steering gear box, and it cannot, I repeat cannot be crossed to any major bearing manufacturers. It is specially made to be install in sections so it can use the shaft as the inner race for the rollers, and the outer race just clears sector gears on both sides of the shaft. Might sound weird, but if you've ever seen one, you'd know what I mean. The only source for this part, are companies/ salvage yards that have a steering box, but they do not want to sell the bearing, only the complete box, and a refurbished box was offered to me for $1000, plus a core charge (they want my box). I wanted the tractor for loader work, and the loader, and truck tires up front is rough on these steering setups, so I am not confident in sinking that much more into it. I currently have it up for sale AS IS, but the current state of dis-assemblly makes it look un attractive to many who are not comfortable with working on machines. My current options are; 1) sell it AS IS, but with the rebuilt head, I won't take less than $2000, and I'm in Massachusetts, so most locals are scared away by the photos. 2) Part it out, with a good motor, hydraulic system, PTO, and tranny, and scrap metal value of what remains, I could do nicely, but that takes time, and I hate to see the old girl chopped up. 3) Have a machine shop make a new bearing ($$$??), then look into installing a bolt on power steering upgrade to take the force off the steering gear (jackson power steering system), again, more $$$ than I want to spend. 4) Install a completely differant steering system, somthing more conventional, with a sigle steering cylinder, and a tie rod. Problem is the way the front axle sits up into the front bolster to keep the front end low, creates problems with any tie rod setup I can think of. So I made this post, and look forward to any comments, and words of wisdom some mat have for me on the subject.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

How about grab a manual box off of a junker and run with that for a while until you decide what to do? Ours had a loader on it for over 20 years, until it finally folded in half from rust and wear and tear. Even a worn manual box will be cheaper and easier to maintain/rebuild than the power steering ones. At least you'd be able to get it back together if you wanted to sell it down the road. Either that, or advertise it in some of the tractor collector magazines/websites (Red Power Magazine, Tractor Digest, Antique Power, etc). Folks on there might be looking for one for parts/restoration. Any way of installing a modern power steering system on there? Like the one used on the 574 and related tractors? It had a tie rod to each steering arm that met under the axle and a cylinder that moved the plate both tie rods attached to. Pretty compact setup. Either that or a small cylinder from one steering arm to a bracket you'd bolt to the engine. Then you'd just have to put a single tie rod between them somehow to keep them in synch. You could get a steering sector out of a more modern tractor to power the cylinder and you'd be all set. It would take a bit of engineering, but it could be done. If you can't make it past the oil pan directly, you could have a pivot on the axle that the rod could hook to on either side that would let you "bend" the tie rod around the front. Haven't looked at my 350 lately, but I can take a peek at it tomorrow as I will be working in the shop.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> How about grab a manual box off of a junker and run with that for a while until you decide what to do? Ours had a loader on it for over 20 years, until it finally folded in half from rust and wear and tear. Even a worn manual box will be cheaper and easier to maintain/rebuild than the power steering ones. At least you'd be able to get it back together if you wanted to sell it down the road. Either that, or advertise it in some of the tractor collector magazines/websites (Red Power Magazine, Tractor Digest, Antique Power, etc). Folks on there might be looking for one for parts/restoration. Any way of installing a modern power steering system on there? Like the one used on the 574 and related tractors? It had a tie rod to each steering arm that met under the axle and a cylinder that moved the plate both tie rods attached to. Pretty compact setup. Either that or a small cylinder from one steering arm to a bracket you'd bolt to the engine. Then you'd just have to put a single tie rod between them somehow to keep them in synch. You could get a steering sector out of a more modern tractor to power the cylinder and you'd be all set. It would take a bit of engineering, but it could be done. If you can't make it past the oil pan directly, you could have a pivot on the axle that the rod could hook to on either side that would let you "bend" the tie rod around the front. Haven't looked at my 350 lately, but I can take a peek at it tomorrow as I will be working in the shop.


Oddly enough, Bates corp only wanted $100 more for a power steering box, over the manual. (Manual $950 + core charge). I have an orbitrol steering valve from my old backhoe and was thinking about scrapping the box and putting that on there to run one steering cylinder, but the problem is tying the wheels together to track properly. I have been looking at it, and everywhere I think of putting a tie rod, something is in the way! That front axle support tucked into that front bolster. If I try to go out in front with a bend in the tie rod, then the loader frame is in the way. I need to take some measurements to see if the whole front axle off my backhoe would work, it would be stronger by far, and has 10 ply tires on it that I only have a couple years on them. I also plan on showing the bearing to a small machine shop, and seeing what they think. Thanks again Country Boy.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Okay, next question. Could a machine shop build a bronze bushing to replace the bearing? Even a two piece bronze bushing (inner and outer layer) would be better than a broken or completely worn out bearing.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> Okay, next question. Could a machine shop build a bronze bushing to replace the bearing? Even a two piece bronze bushing (inner and outer layer) would be better than a broken or completely worn out bearing.


I thought of that too. Actually, i was thinking of having a spacer made to take up the majority of the diameter, and have bronze bushing, of common size hopefully for contact with the shaft. then load the box with grease instead of oil. I heard that lots of these boxes have been loaded with grease over the years due to farmers tired of leaks. . Of course the bushing would have to be split, but I think I've seen those available. I would not want to rely solely on this, but if I only used it to keep the wheels tracking together, then maybe I could add dual cylinders, and a steering valve. Jackson power steering sells aftermarket power steering for manual 350u's, and they have you leave the manual box in place to keep the wheeels tied together. I emailed the comapny asking what to do in my situation over a month ago, but it has fallen on deaf ears frown


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

I'd think a bushing would be fine in that situation, seeing as the shaft turns very slowly and only a limited distance. If they can make it up, then I'd have them do a few for you so you can have extras for the future. If you pack the box with grease, I'd add a grease fitting to the box somewhere so you can keep it topped off and it will be far easier to fill. Grease tends to separate from the gears over time, so you will have to repack it to keep it on the gears. A grease fitting will allow you to just hook up a grease gun and give it a few pumps to top it off. Wouldn't have to be done very often, probably only every couple years. Could drill and tap the fill plug to accept a grease fitting so you don't drill into the case. A bushing is surprisingly strong, so don't think that it won't hold up in there. You could have it made from iron or steel rather than brass if you are worried about it wearing too quickly.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> You could have it made from iron or steel rather than brass if you are worried about it wearing too quickly.


I agree with you about it not being like a fully rotatong shaft at high speed. Problem with iron is it may cause the shaft to wear, and that shaft is another "holy grail" part on the 350U.

Regards,
Steve W.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

I don't know exactly how the bearing is set up on that box, but could you press a sleeve onto the shaft and then have another maybe brass sleeve pressed into the gearbox for it to ride on? Then the shaft wouldn't wear and the other piece would be pretty easy to replace down the road. Just make sure if you do come up with a system that you patent it and maybe have them made to sell online to folks in your situation. You could possibly save a lot of people headaches down the road.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> I don't know exactly how the bearing is set up on that box, but could you press a sleeve onto the shaft and then have another maybe brass sleeve pressed into the gearbox for it to ride on? Then the shaft wouldn't wear and the other piece would be pretty easy to replace down the road. Just make sure if you do come up with a system that you patent it and maybe have them made to sell online to folks in your situation. You could possibly save a lot of people headaches down the road.


Uploaded a new video that shows what I'm dealing with:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FaB89EW70gE&feature=youtu.be


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

After watching the video, I get what you mean about the bearing. One thought I had was to remove the snap ring in the center of the bearing race, and build a split bushing that would have a ring built into the center that would fit into that groove to hold it in place. Ideally, you'd pin that bushing in place so it can't move at all. Then, have a second busing much like the bearing race that would press into the case. By having the bushing on the shaft pinned in place, you won't have to worry about it wearing the shaft out, and it leaves the shaft intact so you can go back to a bearing if they ever become available in the aftermarket. The only wear point would be between the outer ring and the bushing on the shaft. If you make the bushing that presses into the case a bit softer than the one on the shaft, in the future you would probably only be replacing the one in the case if it wears out, rather than having to do the whole thing again. A machinist should be able to make the inner bushing by reaming out a thick walled tube or solid shaft but leaving a small amount of the inside a smaller diameter to fit into that groove. Once the busing is made, it can be sawn in half to put around the shaft. They can drill and pin the bushing to the shaft using tapered pins that lock in place or by using pins that are a few thousandths oversized for a press fit so they don't loosen. Another option would be to make it out of poly. I've been seeing more and more bushings built from poly rather than metal. I'm not sure what the advantages are, though.

I wouldn't give up hope just yet. If you do come up with something, spread the word so others in your situation can also benefit.


On a side note, if you do go the bushing route, I'd stick with oil for the gearbox rather than grease. Grease won't be able to get in between the bushings very well and you will have more wear.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

Country Boy said:


> After watching the video, I get what you mean about the bearing. Another option would be to make it out of poly. I've been seeing more and more bushings built from poly rather than metal. I'm not sure what the advantages are, though.
> 
> I wouldn't give up hope just yet. If you do come up with something, spread the word so others in your situation can also benefit.
> 
> On a side note, if you do go the bushing route, I'd stick with oil for the gearbox rather than grease. Grease won't be able to get in between the bushings very well and you will have more wear.


More good thoughts! Thank you. Poly might be cheaper than brass. I'll be showing this to a couple machine shops in the near future, and I will update the video series as things evolve.

Regards,
Steve W.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Good luck!


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*I hatch a plot to repair the steering*

At long last, I return to work on the IH 350U's steering problem:

Part 28:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrIe9otVmqY&feature=youtu.be


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*More videos*

Moving along with repairs on the steering box.

Parts 29 thru 31 are now online:

Part 29:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hq692oF3G6Q[/ame]

Part 30:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCzReS_JF-Y[/ame]

Part 31:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOXqaU0h4CI[/ame]


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Don't have time to watch right now, but I look forward to seeing those vids! Been wondering how you've been coming along with the 350.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*A ray of hope*



Country Boy said:


> Don't have time to watch right now, but I look forward to seeing those vids! Been wondering how you've been coming along with the 350.


Yeah, I have been busy too, but I am glad I think I am going to get this steering fixed after all.

Steve.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*More videos of the 350U Project*

Hope some people are still visiting this thread. Here is a link to another video. Rather than paste in the link to every video, I'll just include the latest to date, Part 39:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPB95zWcgYQ[/ame]


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Any more progress on this? I caught up with the project on YouTube last night, but I was wondering if you got anywhere since December.


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## stevewatr (Oct 8, 2011)

*Ih350*



Country Boy said:


> Any more progress on this? I caught up with the project on YouTube last night, but I was wondering if you got anywhere since December.


Funny you should mention it. Just today I was thinking I need to get back on this job. Been spending most of my repair time on the Oliver, time to show the IH350 some love. Video coming soon.

Steve W.


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