# Is this worth buying?



## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Looking to buy a mower that can mow my area better than my ford 3000. I found an old craftsman garden tractor with 3pt hitch. Guy says it needs fuel pump and battery. He wants $250 for it. He says it runs When pour gas into carb.

What do yall think?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

VERY GOOD PRICE !!
Vacuum fuel pump can be used on it($25),,battery= depends on cold crank amps(300+ )
These were some of the best ever built. They will pull a one-bottom board plow(Brinly,etc.),and they are rugged.
I've been looking for one,for years,that I could afford.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Where can I get vacuum pump from


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

My fear is parts not being available


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I got him down to $225. I'm debating still. I guess a battery will be $30? Fuel pump maybe $20-$30?


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## Fredneck (May 25, 2012)

if that's all that's wrong with it, it sounds like a great deal.

a battery is routine maintenance on a mower, those little ones die regularly. i'd have him demonstrate that it does run when u pour fuel into the carb. assuming it does, i'd jump on it.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

The only problem is that may not be all that is wrong with it. When tractors aren't running there is no way to check it out. If it had a full tank it should run without a fuel pump with the way the tank and engine are situated. Tell him if he gets it running and everything works as it should you will give him $300.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok, it's a lady who is selling it. Guess her husband died or left her and she wants it out the way. She said her son can dump fuel in the carb and it runs. Said they got a rebuild kit for the pump but it didn't work. She said they really haven't messed with it much and just wants it out of the way.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

How hard is it to get parts for these? Also how do you install a vacuum fuel pump on these?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well she dropped it down to $150. Said they can turn it over but won't start now


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well I gave her $160 for it. Will take more pics when I get home


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## poncho62 (Jun 23, 2010)

You did good....Thats a Tecumseh engine, parts are available for them.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Yeah they used to have a plant here but they closed


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Looks like transmission is leaking some.

Looks like wires are not hooked up

Fuel tank is dirty

The belts look loose and dry rotted


What do yall think?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

So what do yall think?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I think you got a GREAT deal !
A vacuum pump has 3 openings. One goes to the breather,or crankcase,to supply vacuum pulses. One comes from the tank and one goes to the carb.
The new ones look like these: https://www.google.com/search?q=vac....15604j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8
As for blades,etc, it's not too difficult to find some to fit,as with the belts. These tractors were made before the metrics,or model-specific belts came about.
The leak,at the axle is probably caused by the twine wrapped around the axle. Carefully remove it,and it may stop. If not,seals can be matched at many NAPA stores,if you have the # from the original .


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Any manuals available on here? 

I don't know what is what. What takes fluid. What kind of fluid. Etc.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I just noticed that that is the heavy-service engine,with roller bearings on the crankshaft ! Great engines. It is also pointless ignition,which means armatures are still available for it !


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Armatures? I'm new to all if this. 

What hp are these engines?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

That should be about 16 hp. It should have #'sstamped in the blower housing,and start with HMM,or HHH,etc.,followed by 120,or 160.
Armatures= magneto/coil. No points.
In the trans,you can drain it,and either run 80W90 gear oil,or the Synthetic equivalent. 
Engine oil,you can use SAE30,in the summer(or 10w40),and in the winter use SAE 10W 30,for easier starting. Change the engine oil every 25,to 50 hours,depending on how hard you use it.
Gear case for the deck,use hi-load ,water proof grease.
You can usually find a manual for these online,in book,or PDF form.
Clean around the shifter,and see if it's actually leaking,or if it's maybe over full,and being pushed out.
With a bit of TLC,that will be a great tractor ,and there are a lot of attachments that will work with it.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Any front end loaders? Lol

Where is the fuel pump on these things?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

It could handle aFEL,if you built/found one to fit.
The fuel pump is the oblong thing that the fuel line is running to.It is threaded into the carb inlet. I see this has a fuel shutoff valve,so that makes it easier to do the cleaning.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Cool thanks for the info. Do you have a wiring diagram?

I dont think the solenoid is on it and the push button start isn't wired up.

Where do I fill the transmission or drain it? Grease fitting too?


Where would you hook up the vac fuel pump? Should I also install an inline filter?

Thanks. Sorry for the questions. Want to get it running and cutting grass by the weekend


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I'm seeing these tractors didn't come with a solenoid. They came with a switch with a heavy duty solenoid built in them? If true, what kind are they?

I plan to go to the auto parts store today


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

How in the hell do both drive and mower belts come off?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I got the belts off. Got new ones.

Still trying to figure out about an ignition switch. Do these need solenoids? I've read that they don't since the original switch had it.

Was planning to go to tractor supply and look


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

It's also a 1971 10 xl


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## JiminRI (May 22, 2015)

These are great old tractors - one of the earlier Suburban series models made by Roper. Parts are readily available on eBay.
I have a later model (SS-16) with a twin cylinder 16 hp Onan engine that I still use for clearing snow. 
If I read the model number correctly (917.25590) it is a 10 HP single cylinder Tecumseh engine. You can download a manual (free) at http://www.stripmine.org/sears/manuals/91725590.pdf for both the tractor and the three point hitch.
If it has the three blade mower you'll find it does a much better job than newer two blade decks. If you have a garden you'll want to look for a 10 inch bottom plow that attaches to the three point hitch. 
The other good news is that the three point hitch alone generally sells for more than $100 - so if you decide not to restore the tractor you should be able to at least double or triple your investment by parting it out. 
Stripmine might have the manual for your mower deck, too.
Good luck,
JiminRI


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

What about the ignition switch? What can I use?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Awesome. Thanks for the manual!


I got a key switch but trying to determine how to exactly wire it. I see the diagram in it but it looks like only 3 terminals are needed (hot, ground, and one to the engine)

There is no magneto on here?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok I got this switch. It has terminals B, G, L, S, and M.

I got one wire running from engine that has a prong end not hooked up, and then one wire from the rectifier that is not hooked up.

Where do these go on the switch?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Anyone?

I dont see a safety switch.

This has got me on a hold from doing anything else with it


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

B= battery feed 
M=magneto(wire from coil)
S= starter solenoid small terminal.
L= lights
G(brass-colored terminal) = ground.
You'll have to find out if the wire from the engine is for lights/charging by starting the engine,and seeing if it has voltage from it.Use a voltage meter that has ac and dc testing ability.
If it has ac voltage,it's for lights(L),and if it's DC,put an inline fuse in it,and connect it to the"B" terminal.
If there's no voltage,try touching it,quickly, to ground,and see if it kills the engine. If it kills the engine,it should connect to the "M" terminal.
What color is the rectifier wire?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Is the rectifier the "magneto"?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Or magneto in the engine?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

This is where it goes


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok I'm assuming the one wire from engine goes to the M terminal, the wire from the ignition module wire mounted on side under tractor goes straight to the B terminal, them I make a ground wire go from switch to metal on dashm.

I got two wires from lights...one goes to rear light..then there is a loose wire on the light switch


This sound right?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Two wires from engine goes straight to the rectifier/ignition box. Then the last one from the engine is not hooked up to nothing.

The last wire from the rectifier/ignition box is hooked up to nothing.

The one wire from engine is black..the one from rectifier is brown


I also have no front light bulbs either


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok I think the rectifier wire goes to the ground?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

So thr ssi regulator (rectifier) goes to the B port?

I got starter cable to s terminal, magneto wire to M. 

All is left is the battery and ground wire as well as the ssi regulator wire I was talking bout


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

From the diagram,the black wire in the first pic goes to the "L" terminal.
Magneto ignition systems don't have power to them,to make spark. They create their spark when the magnet passes the magneto.
You should not connect either the black,or brown wire,until you get the engine running,and can check to see if they are "hot".
On top of the magneto,you have the spark plug wire,and another wire goes across the top of the engine. Find out where it goes,It is probably the engine "kill" wire.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Number 37 is the ssi regulator. It has two wires running to the spark box. Then it has that one wire I'm trying to figure where it goes, it looks like it goes to the Battery terminal but you also notice the ground wire from the switch going to light switch on diagram. But I have no light bulbs right now

38 is the spark box I'm assuming since that's where I see the ssi regulator two wires going to. You see one wire goes back to the switch. That's where i got it at the M terminal


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I'm going to run the + battery cable to b terminal, but wondering if that's where the ssi regulator goes.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

If you notice in the picture about the magneto..most of the wires go behind the flywheel. I can't see where they go but that one wire is coming from it is very long making me think it goes to the M terminal


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I have no ohm meter either


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Looks like the middle wire goes to the R..but my switch doesnt have an R


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Found this,online .Thought it was interesting it is Tecumseh's listing/model # of your engine.
http://www.barrettsmallengine.com/tecumsehpartslist/HH100-115164C.pdf
Unfortunately,they quit making this engine in 1973,due to problems with the electrics.
I don't know of any parts still available.
However,a Kohler single,or a Briggs single can be swapped into it.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Yeah, that helps out for parts.


I'm still stuck on the brown wire from the rectifier.. I want to crank this thing up so baddd


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Model of engine


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Tape off the brown wire and crank it up. The rectifier only comes in to charge the battery,and run lighting..


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok well I'd like go keep it charged but I'll try it without it for now until we determine what that wire is for.

Thanks


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well I turned the key switch and it didn't even turn over. WTF?

I got starter to the S terminal, B to the battery, m to the magneto, and I got the ground from the switch to a bolt.

What am I doing wrong???


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

This will at least , give you an idea of how it runs.
The battery won't run down,while it's running,since the only charge it uses is when it's starting.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well It was my ground for my battery.

Anyways. It turned over. Made a weird noise but guess it was the starter and the flywheel turning. It turned couple times and now the starter won't even turn now. 

WTF?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Pull the spark plug,and see if it's wet.
With the plug out,see if it rolls over.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well I can turn the engine by hand and starter turns freely too. It's the starter. It engages and turns then stops. Turn the key again and it acts like it wants to engage and turn but stops. Turn the key again and nothing happens. 

I wait and check the wires later. Starter acts like it wants to turn again but then it stops and doesn't work no more. I don't know what it could be.

These things suppose to have a solenoid? Don't see one on the diagram but yall say it came wit a heavy duty key switch. Thought the one I got from auto zone with the M terminal would be strong enough?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Some had solenoids(later ones) Some had a push button starter.
Try using a jumper cable from the battery + post,to the starter terminal. Just hold it on,don't clamp it,and see if it keeps turning(no more than 30 -40 seconds) .


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I got it to turn a little bit but it stopped. Guess I'm not grounding good.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I got an meter now and it's reading 12.70 volts at the starter but the starter isn't turning over.

Any ideas?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

The starter is hanging up. I bump it or if it's engaged on the flywheel and I move the flywheel some..the starter turns for a bit then hangs up again. How can this be fixed


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Looks dirty in the starter.

What do yall think?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Very dirty. Gonna try to clean it


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Use some 1200 grit wet/dry sand paper on the contact area of the armature,and wipe it down with a clean cloth.
Also, put a dab of grease in the bearing cup,on the end plate.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well it started to turn good but now it's acting up again.

I think one of the magnets or whatever is shot


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Got it cleaned the best I could.


Looks like I may need to carry it to the starter shop tomorrow. Maybe they can replace those two little pieces


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

That's about the only option. 
I checked and can't find a listing for a replacement,but I'll keep looking.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Wonder if I could put a pull rope on it?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Yes,it can be pulled over to start it.
There may already be a notch in the pulley,for that.
If not,take off the nut that holds on the flywheel,and install one.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

jhngardner367 said:


> Yes,it can be pulled over to start it.
> There may already be a notch in the pulley,for that.
> If not,take off the nut that holds on the flywheel,and install one.


You can see it has like 3 Phillip head bolts. What's that for?


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## JiminRI (May 22, 2015)

Sears wiring diagrams are attached - about 90 different models are included. Diagram K corresponds to the Custom 10 XL (917.25590). It and the diagram in the Owner's manual I referenced earlier in this thread are exactly the same orientation and between them include wire colors, wire gauges and a diagram (part of K) showing the safety switch that was asked about earlier. I hope this helps.
Good luck,
JiminRI


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Looks like the rectifier middle wire goes to the battery wire. Right?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Those philipsscrews held a mesh screen on. you want the pulley attached by the nut that holds the flywheel on.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

You know what pulley will work?

Thanks


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I use one from a Recoil starter on the Briggs pushmowers. 
just enlarge the center hole,and remove the flywheel nut,and put the pulley on,and tighten the nut to 70 ft/lbs.
Then as you're looking at the flywheel, you need to cut,or grind a 3/8" deep slot in the lip of the pulley,from left to right. That lets the knot catch,while you wind the rope -Clockwise. This should make it roll in that direction,when you pull the rope. Only wind it 3 or 4 times.

Edited: it's supposed to wind the same direction the engine turns !


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Do you have pictures of your set up?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

No. I've since gotten an electric starter.
Take the shroud off a push mower(Briggs engine) and you'll be able to see how it's held on All you need is a notch ,1/4 to 3/8" deep, some where on the lip of the cup.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Sounds good


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

just remember the engine turns CLOCKWISE (looking at the flywheel),so wind the rope in the same direction!


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well the starter shop can't find no parts for the starter. Guess I'm SOL.

Know where I can get a starter?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

What is the length and inner diameter of the casing ?
Also,can you show the drive end,and gear ?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

You can see gear to the flywheel here. It's still at the starter shop. Won't be able to get it til friday.

It's a tecumseh starter though


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Found this:
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aw2byFQKHo[/ame]


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Just found out that that starter was used on the JD 112 with that engine ! If you can't find one for the sears,let's try the JD !
I'll do some poking around.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

http://m.ebay.com/itm/like/28109705...17182-37290-0&rvr_id=863798881487&_mwBanner=1


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I can't get flywheel off. Don't have a tool to remove it.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Why do you want it off ??


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well to get the shaft size. Compare with a pulley.

I was wondering if I could notch the flywheel and insert a pull rope I bought?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

DO NOT MODIFY THE FLYWHEEL ! It's balanced when cast. 
Remove the nut,and lock washer,and measure the shaft diameter.
Then,find a pulley,or starter cup,and if needed,enlarge the center hole,to fit over the shaft,and put the lock-washer and nut on,and tighten to 80 ftlbs.
Find out how many teeth the old starter has,and if the starter from DB electric will fit. If it says HH100,or JD 112 W/ Tecumseh,it should fit.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

I was thinking it could be balanced but didn't know.

Well the pulley would be too far in the flywheel where I couldn't wrap it?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well the got my starter fixed.. thank the lord. Costed Me like $54.99 though


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well start works good but it seems like it don't want to fire off unless we pour gas through air hole then it'll fire off. 

What could be the issue?

The vacuum pump don't seem to be sucking any gas either


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

The price for the starter isn't bad !
As for having to put fluid in the intake,check the pump to make sure the hoses are connected correctly. Are you using the pump that came on it,or a new one?
One hose should go to the breather or crank case ,for vacuum,one from the tank,to the pump,and one to the carb from the pump.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well I put the regular pump back on it. It works fine. I took it apart to put aviation form a gasket on the gasket to help it seal better. 

The carb was leaking at the fuel bowl. The drain was also leaking to..had a bad gasket.

I replaced the gaskets.
found out the float has some holes in them. I'm soldering them now.

What's the best way to adjust these carbs?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Depends on the carb . Walbro/Nikki,etc,and carb model.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok. , I got carb free from leaking now. The little push up drain wants to leaks every now and then but I got it stopped for now.

I need to adjust carb but need to know the adjustments. So any info would greatly be appreciated.


Also the one wire from the rectifier that I was questioning about. I'm getting 12v from it so do I hook it up to the hot post on battery?


Oh, and I had to solder the float cause it had holes in it. I tested it and see no leaks. How does this look?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

The wire can go to the battery.
The valve that is leaking is a water drain.
You may have trouble with the float. Soldering adds weight,so it may be too heavy to unseat properly,when it needs to let fuel in.
Post a pic of the carb(both sides),and try to measure the distance (center to center) of the mounting bolts.
Also,fid the name (Walbr,etc),and the numbers on the carb.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well the right side was heavier when I sat it down in the water.

I'll do it in the morning. 

Also can I put an inline filter in?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Yes,an inline filter can be used. make sure it is for lawn tractors,as car types are restrictive.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Carb has LME on it and that looks like that walbro carb


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

It's a LME 29 carb


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well I see why it's flooding constantly.

The float had a spring.it's not there. Plus the float is weighing down on the solder side


Guess I'll buy a new float which looks to cost $35-$45 

Buy a rebuild kit.

Should I buy a jet kit?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

dependson if the ones you have are damaged,or just dirty.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Guess I'll get this kit
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/kit-repair-p-834355.html


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

And float from here.
http://www.mmmowers.com/oemparts?ar..._LME-1/LME-1_PARTS_LIST/15LMELME1/15LMELME1~1


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Also is this orange too bright from the original color?

And will this mower have a time cutting this thick grass?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

It is a bit brighter,than stock.
The original was more yellowish colored,but it's yours so go for it!
That tractor,should not have any trouble doing that cutting. Keep the throttle open,and use 1st gear,in heavy stuff,and you'll be amazed at how it cuts !


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok, how about the gears.

Hi-lo

1-2-3

When do you use each one in what situations?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

High range is usually for transporting to an area,or pulling a trailer around
Low range is the work range.
1/low,is usually for plowing gardens,tilling,etc.
2/low is for high grass mowing,pushing with a blade
3/low,up to 1,or 2 high,can be used for mowing shorter grass,pulling grass catchers/sweepers.
Just play with the ranges,and gears,to find what suits the need.
Never,ever try to pull a tiller,or plow in high ,since it could flip backwards,or damage the tractor.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

What's the max these things can pull?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I really don't know. My cousin used his to pull a 5'x8' trailer,loaded with 3 truck engines,with out a problem.
I do know that it can pull a 10" or 12" plow,without a problem .


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Just drained the rear axle. Had a lot of water in it. I poured some gas in to try to get rest of water out. 

How do I take the rear hub off to check seal? I see two set of he screws on it. Do I unscrew them and pull hub off?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Well the lme 29..I'm unable to get a float for. Is there one similar to it on another model?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I think the hub has a set-screw on the tube,behind the flange. it may look like a bolt r an allen -head set screw. Some had both.
That's a Walbro carb,right ?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Try this link,but makesure it's the right part #,before ordering it !
http://www.ebay.com/itm/27105-TECUM...004?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e962bd1ac

Update : That's the wrong float,so don't order it! it only fits the small walbro carbs !


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

This float looks like the one I have but this is a different model lme carb
http://www.mmmowers.com/oemparts?ar..._LME-1/LME-1_PARTS_LIST/15LMELME1/15LMELME1~1


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

My carb is a Walbro LME 29


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

yeah, the LME-1 is a small carb,used on pushmowersThe "29" = 29mm throat.
Single-digit carbs were mostly 20mm,or less.
My walbro cross reference book doesn't go back far enough to list the one you have so I can't compare it to,say the Kohler carbs.

Measure the center-to-center distance of the carb mounting holes(bolt holes),on the engine. I have an idea.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok I go out there and measure. Hold.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Looks to be about 1 1/2" or less from middle to outside


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Wait I didn't see measure to mounting holes. Let me go back and measure


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok it's 1" from center to middle of mount holes


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

So, it's 2" between the centers of the bolt holes ?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Yeah

Left side and right measure 1" from center.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Ok . Give me some time,to check something.
By the way,when you're looking at the choke-side(inlet) of the carb which way does the throttle lever move,to open ?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Think it goes back to the right side when you're sitting on the tractor. 


You can see the throttle here


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Also where can I get headlights for it? And a headlight switch?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

You can find them at most tractor supply stores,or even AutoZone,or Oreillys.
I' think we can swap the Walbro carb,for a more modern one,like I did with my Bolens( Kohler engine). It works great,and parts are easy to find.
I'll get back with you,tomorrow,when I've checked it out !


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Thanks...I think I heard about newer can too from the 6hp kohler


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

What'd you fund out gardner?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I'm still checking. The one I used on my Kohler,had to have an adapter made,due to spacing.It has 2&1/8" centers.

I'm still waiting for a friend to bring over a Walbro from a K301 Kohler,to compare. You can still get parts for them.


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok cool thanks


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

As soon as I find out, I'll post it for you. 
I HATE when something tries to beat me ! LOL!


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Yeah I need to figure out something cause the grass is growing.

Also I took the rear hub off..

What's the best way to replace this seal?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

What about this?
Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=121701903432&alt=web


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Come up with anything JH


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Ok I typed my model number in and got directed to sears website 

They still make the carb but different number
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/cra...el-143619012/0247/1503500/00041714/00001.html


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Here's the carb they substituted
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/cra...4A/0071/143/model-143619012/0247/1503500.html


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Also found float
http://www.tecumsehpartstore.com/pa...4-CA/Carburetor/CA-631304/1077CA1077631304-CA


Look like this is it?


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## GFC Firefighter (Jul 15, 2010)

Do these needles look bad?


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