# 1949 Farmall Cub Running Rough



## farmall1

Hello,
I have a 1949 farmall cub that is running pretty badly. I start it up fine but I have to keep the choke at half way out so it continues to run. If I push the choke in the off position it cuts off. I even let it run like that for a hour and it did that. I am wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to what it could possibly be. I am planning on changing the plugs and wires and points and everything this week. Does anyone know what exactly what the problem could be? I appreciate any suggestions anyone has for me to look at.


----------



## Live Oak

Great to see you posting again farmall1! Welcome back! I am thinking that your problem may be fuel related. I would not change the plugs, points, and wires just yet as it sounds as if you are getting a good spark. I would suggest resolving the engine running problem first and then replace the other things as needed. 

The fact that the engine runs with the choke partically engaged leads me to think the carburetor may have a lot of sediment built up in the fuel bowl which could be blocking or partially blocking the main jet in the carb. Have you tried removing and giving the carb. a good cleaning and inspection? I like to soak old carbs like that in a can of carb cleaning solvent to get all of the gum and residue build up off followed up with some carefull application of compressed air to ensure everything is cleared out and passages are free of blockage. Tractor Supply Center sells rebuilt carbs for these machines but I would try massaging your current carb. first and see this fixes the problem. I did this on my Cub 154 Lo Boy when the float valve was sticking open and flooding the engine out. If you are real gentle and careful, you can reuse the carb gaskets. The carb. itself if pretty simple and straight forward to disassemble and reassemble. 

Let us know how things turn out.


----------



## farmall1

I will go home this evening and try that and see how that goes. I hope the gasket doesnt tear or i guess I will have to make my own gasket cause im in richmond,va and have no idea where I can get another at around here. I do appreciate your response and comment it has been a while since i posted. I am probably going to be posting alot more since im rebuilding the tractor next year. I will post a pic once i figure out how to do it.


----------



## Live Oak

Not sure if you have seen this site but they carry a wide range of parts. Here are some carb. and related parts and kits that may be of some help. 

Farmall & IHC - Model A Parts


----------



## farmall1

Thanks that site is great I will be using that alot. I also see you are a " Hunter" as well good man...


----------



## farmall1

i cleaned the carbs throughly and it still runs rough but what i did was I tied the choke down in half position so that the tractor would run and let me cut my 3 acre yard..lol... I dont know whether to order a new carb thats reconditioned or get a kit and rebuild it. Other than the carb situation tractor is excellent.


----------



## Live Oak

Just for good measure, have you tried running a double strength batch of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool in the gas and spray the carb out good while it is running. It may not make any difference if there is really badly gummed up passage in the carb but I have used it many years in my boats and gas equipment and had good results. It has helped me get engines that were not running quite right to do a little better. Might be worth a try. 

More than likely you will need to totally disassemble the carb and soak the parts in a good commercial grade carb part cleaning solvent for several days and then blow everything out with compressed air. Still no guarantee that will fix the problem and you may have to buy a used or rebuilt carb. Sorry things did not work out.


----------



## Fordfarm

Chief gave you some great advice! I don't know much about the Cubs (other than I want one), but I do know that some of the IH carbs had a metal "venturi cone" in them that gave some of the symptoms you are telling of, if it was installed upside down. There is not much difference between the two sides, but the engine knows which side is up!


----------



## Archdean

The carb kits are cheap, easy to do and only three things make a servicable engine run rough!! Notice I said servicable!!

Fuel/Air/Ignition!!

Start with one and go from there!! Your's actually sounds like a fuel problem most notably a fuel float is the culprit, hence a half choke at mid point reducing the air is a possibility!! Cleaners are usually temporary fixes at best!! IN MY EXPERIENCE>!!

This one didn't run too hot till I rebuilt the carb now ole Granny purrs like a contented kitten!!

I can send you several sourses for your rebuild kit if you need them!!


<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v517/Archdean/FarmallBduelseatcompleted004Small.jpg">


----------



## Carm

I'd have to go with fuel as well. Good soak and rebuild on the carb should do it. Do you have a Zenith or IH carb. Whatever kit you need, go with the OEM. THe aftermarket ones have a sketchy history from what I have heard/seen.


----------



## farmall1

yea my carb is from IH I guess I will go to the dealer and get a new kit or if anyone can tell me of a nice place to purchase the kit offline I would greatly appreciate that as welll.... I haven't ever needed to have the tractor worked on every this is still original minus plugs points etc. I am 26 so this old technology is new technology to me. I have another tractor that I use for my business. My mother gave this to me for a x-mas present a year ago so im still learning about it so if I ask a stupid question please excuse me. Thanks all for your help and advice.


----------



## Live Oak

> _Originally posted by farmall1 _
> *im still learning about it so if I ask a stupid question please excuse me. Thanks all for your help and advice. *


All of us learn from questions that our members ask. The only stupid question is the one you DON'T ask. The only problem about buying parts from the IH dealer is they are REAL expensive in most cases. Many times you can buy the same, similar, or retro-fitted part at substantially less cost. I got a bad case of sticker shock everytime I made a parts run to the IH dealer when I had my Cub 154 Lo Boy. :dazed:


----------



## Archdean

> _Originally posted by farmall1 _
> *yea my carb is from IH I guess I will go to the dealer and get a new kit or if anyone can tell me of a nice place to purchase the kit offline I would greatly appreciate that as welll.... I haven't ever needed to have the tractor worked on every this is still original minus plugs points etc. I am 26 so this old technology is new technology to me. I have another tractor that I use for my business. My mother gave this to me for a x-mas present a year ago so im still learning about it so if I ask a stupid question please excuse me. Thanks all for your help and advice. *


I need to know what/who made it and the number for IH (take a mirror and look at the part # in the rear IE the part that faces the block)!!!!

Could be Marvel-Shebler or Zenith/ or one of 3 other no name manufactures!! They used them all!!

A rebuild kit is about $25 depending on the model!!


----------



## Carm

If it has the IH logo on it, buy the kit for the IH Cub carb. 3/4" Local dealer should have it or can get it. or www.cngco.com


----------



## farmall1

Thanks for the info guys i will get all the model numbers and everything so I can let you guys know and post it later today or tomorrow morning


----------



## farmall1

I am sorry took so long for me to get the info.. but all i could find on there was the serial # which was 144571 and the idle speed which is 800 ? so can anyone tell me which carb rebuild kit i need from that or is it guessing game time ?


----------



## farmall1

I couldn't find any other numbers on there.. I looked pretty hard but I think I am gonna do guess work now.


----------



## Tau44

What do you all put in the fuel to help clean out the fuel system?


----------



## farmall1

I normally use the gumout cleaner or either the b12 stuff I think thats what its called and often sometimes I will run some racing gas through her to clean her out just a lil bit mixed in the regular gas..


----------



## Unstyled 34 JD

> _Originally posted by farmall1 _
> *I am sorry took so long for me to get the info.. but all i could find on there was the serial # which was 144571 and the idle speed which is 800 ? so can anyone tell me which carb rebuild kit i need from that or is it guessing game time ? *


Hi Farmall 1,

We own 2 Farmall Cubs... 1948 and 1959.. Nice Tractors..

I wanted to let you know, that if you found the serial number you posted for your tractor, was found on the only plate, located on the sterring column shaft, down by the radiator, Then, Your Tractor is a 1952 .

Farmall Cub Serial Numbers for the 1952 year... start with number 144455 and end with 162283. Your serial number falls in that range.. making it the 116th tractor made in 1952.


Also, We had difficulities with one of ours, same issues you are facing, and it was the carb.... we took it apart.... cleaned it well as several have decribed above... and it runs great..

Thought you would want to know.. the correct year and I hope this helps. "DJ"


----------



## farmall1

Thanks... I was thinking about doing that again but it didnt work to well the first time so I figured I would order a carb rebuilt kit and handle it that way. Do you know which cab rebuild kit works with yours?


----------



## Unstyled 34 JD

Hi Farmall 1,

You are very welcome.  

If your tractor has the orginal carb, on it, then all you would need to do is go to the nearest International dealer, and I am sure they would be able to get you a rebuild kit.

( We went to a local dealer, and they ordered just what we needed for ours)

I know there is a place in Va,(that rebuilds carbs) I am unable to remember the name of the place, or what city they are located at.

If you have a problem with finding the rebuild kit, let me know here, and I will try to look in some of our books here, for something close to your area.

Hope this helps. "DJ"


----------



## farmall1

I have found the rebuild kit and installed it and now ... I have another problem the top of the carb isn't tight against the manifold because the carb threads are stripped in one side so now im trying to figure out how i can tighten the carb so that the gasket is sealed I guess im just gonna have to take it off and re-tap it ... or something else...


----------



## Seawolf

*Running pretty bad*



farmall1 said:


> Hello,
> I have a 1949 farmall cub that is running pretty badly. I start it up fine but I have to keep the choke at half way out so it continues to run. If I push the choke in the off position it cuts off. I even let it run like that for a hour and it did that. I am wondering if anyone has a suggestion as to what it could possibly be. I am planning on changing the plugs and wires and points and everything this week. Does anyone know what exactly what the problem could be? I appreciate any suggestions anyone has for me to look at.


I would shut off gas at the tank,remove and clean glass bowl,and before replacement,let the gas run to see if you have a good flow.you could have an obstruction in the tank(use a flash light and look in)?i had a blocker tank outlet on mine.reassemble and if you still need to choke take line of the carb and see if you have a good flow,good luck


----------



## pogobill

Could be a gummed up carb? Have you tried that spray carb cleaner? You spray it in the intake until she almost stalls etc. etc. directions are on the can. Might help.


----------



## tcreeley

farmall1 said:


> I have found the rebuild kit and installed it and now ... I have another problem the top of the carb isn't tight against the manifold because the carb threads are stripped in one side so now im trying to figure out how i can tighten the carb so that the gasket is sealed I guess im just gonna have to take it off and re-tap it ... or something else...


Is there room to just drill it out and replace it with a screw and nut. When I had my old 1948- that is what those two screws holding it looked like anyway.

Sometimes you find the carb has warped and when you go to reassemble - you don't have 2 perfect surfaces. I would use gray gasket maker- dried hard. Don't let it drip into the carb.

I also would adjust the rod going from the carb forward to the governor. I'd turn in or out the turn buckle and replace the cotter pin back where I took it out- easy to lose.

My 1948 had a magneto- everything under the distributor cap.

Is your fuel flow from your glass bowl good? Sediment builds up there. You can get the brass screens to put in at the top of the glass bowl. It was a wonderful tractor- all 8 hp. I plowed and disk harrowed the garden, used a sickle bar mower, plowed snow and pushed gravel with the front blade, and hauled gravel.
Fun to drive. A magnetic block heater (under oil pan) helps it start when the temp is below 30! It will do just fine at 0 temps. Sometimes I'd drip some gas down the sparkplug holes. If it didn't catch, I'd do it again after drying all of the plugs.


----------

