# How do i change freeze plugs on ford 3000



## Notadieselmechanic (Mar 1, 2021)

I'm new to this. I just traded up to a 3000 diesel and before I could get it off the trailer antifreeze started pouring out from around the starter. After a little research it looks like if I'm lucky it's the freeze plugs between the engine and transmission. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Changing freeze plugs is not too bad a job, but you need to be patient and take your time to prevent damage to the new plugs. There are 4 plugs total. 2 on the left side of the block and 2 at the rear of the motor located down in a hole that makes it look impossible. Change the ones on the left side of the block first. Also, order a couple of extras for any oops. The old ones pop out easy with a flat blade screwdriver or punch. I like to tap from one side and the plug will rotate. Grab on the old plug with needle nose vice grips and give a twist. Th plug will curl to allow removal witout dropping into the block.

There is a block drain behind the oil filter. I like to wash thru the freeze plug holes and thru the drain to clean block internally. I use a lubricant/ sealer installing the new plugs. Currently using Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac. Coat plug 1/2 inside and out with sealer. line up hole and plug as best you can and tap in with a 1/2 drive deep well that matches OD of plug. You can feel the plug spring as it inserts. The 2 rears are more complicated but not real bad. Use same procedure as side to remove old plugs. The difference is in the install. The line up is harder, but must be close to insert the plug. You also must use smaller socket to seat the plug. This is pretty much trial and error and a second set of hands is a big help. Using the sealer is a PIA due to mess, but have never had one leak.


----------



## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

There are two freeze plugs (core plugs) in the rear of the engine, one in the rear of the head and the other behind the flywheel that requires a split between engine and transmission. You can get to the one in rear of head by removing the hood, etc.

See items #4 and #13 on attached diagram. 
New Holland 3000 - SERIES - 3 CYL TRACTOR(01/65 - 12/74) Parts Diagrams


----------



## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

My bad big T. It has been a few years since I. changed the ones on my FIL 1968 3000. I did not remember splitting the tractor as it was already split to change a tranny bearing. I changed all 4 on the NAA last year and the rears were side by side iin the head. 
Senility is a terrible thing to waste. I seem to get worse every year. Thanks for setting me straight. I don't want to be the source of bad info, no matter how good the intentions.


----------



## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

No problem Ed. I've had similar situations. Hopefully, his problem is with the plug in the rear of the head. He can replace that one. Then, he can replace the one behind the flywheel the next time he works on the clutch.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

https://www.timik.co.uk/Ford-short-rear-left.jpg




https://www.timik.co.uk/Ford-short-front-right.jpg


The pictures show the plugs on a 4-cylinder. It looks the same on a 3-cylinder, but there are only two of them on the side of the block.

The plug dimensions changed during the years of production. Early engines had threaded plugs, but if you have the pressed in type on the side, you will most likely find the same at the back.
I attached pages from the Parts List (plugs #15), concerning the block, complete Parts List at:








Ford 3000 Parts List


Parts list in one pdf, 810 pages with bookmarks.




www.tractorforum.com





While you are in there, renew rear main bearing. Depending on transmission type and PTO type; Clutch release bearing and the seals in the shaft arrangement for transmission and PTO. Check the clutch and flywheel. If there is a lot of play in the "clutch shaft" that goes through the bell housing, renew the bushings.

There is a hole at the bottom of the bell housing. The hole is there to protect the clutch from oil and coolant if anything goes wrong inside. Yours is probably clogged, since the coolant comes out at the starter instead. Normally, there is a cotter pin hanging in the hole. It is there to clean the hole when it wiggles around. That does not work as expected. Better enlarge the hole with a drill to double the size, then you can poke around in there with a suitable tool and get the mess out. In the future, poke the hole from time to time to make sure it is open. You can also flush the inside clean from the timing inspection hole (where your coolant leaks from, I think?). Make sure that the little tag over the inspection hole is screwed on when you are finished.

Shop Manual:








Ford 2000-3000-4000 (3-cyl ,1/65 -12/74) Shop Manual...


Covers: All Purpose Agriculture (2100, 3100 and 4100) LCG (2110 and 4110) Rowcrop (4200) 4000 SU (4140) The old version of this pdf (ShopManual_Ford_2_3_4000.pdf) did not have all pages from the manual. This second version is updated and complete.




www.tractorforum.com





Supplement with missing pages for the Shop Manual:








Ford 2000-3000-4000 (3-cyl ,1/65 -12/74) Shop Manual, suppl.


This supplement contains the pages that were missing or were incomplete in "ShopManual_Ford_2_3_4000.pdf". If you have that manual already printed on paper, you just need to download this supplement, print it and make the manual complete. This supplement is not needed if you are using the...




www.tractorforum.com





Operator's Manual:
www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Operators%20Manual%20All%20Purpose%20and%20LCG%20Tractors%202000,3000,4000,and%205000.pdf


*** Edit:
...and I forgot to attach the file, now it is there.
***


----------



## Notadieselmechanic (Mar 1, 2021)

Thank you to everyone who posted advice. So I did split the tractor and sure enough the freeze plug in the engine block was leaking. I called the ford / new Holland dealer and they said it should come out easy. Well..... not so easy after all. Turns out my tractor fell into the 14months that ford installed screw in freeze plugs, what a PIA. After alot of chisel work I was able to remove the old plug . The parts guy at the counter was surprised to find out they used the screw type. He was able to find some new ones in Canada for $20+ shipping and $56 for the plug (each). With a little more research I was able to learn that you can replace them with a 1-1/2" brass screw in plug from a plumbing store for $10. I am replacing bearings and seals while I'm in there. The clutch plate looks good but the pressure plate needs a little work. I hope to get the tractor back together this weekend. A friend is rebuilding the hydraulic pump for me turns out I'm pulling engine into the hydraulics. 
My next project is to tackle the slow to start issue. I did install a new battery before unloading it and that helped to spin it faster but it still took awhile to start. 
So again any advice is greatly appreciated.


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Just thinking that using a 1-1/2" brass screw in pipe plug may be like using a 3/4" bolt to replace a blown electrical fuse, No?


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

pogobill said:


> Just thinking that using a 1-1/2" brass screw in pipe plug may be like using a 3/4" bolt to replace a blown electrical fuse, No?


The plugs are there to close the holes that are necessary when you remove the core (internal mould) from confined spaces, after casting the block. They are called freeze plugs, probably because there has been blocks where plugs popped out after the coolant froze. If the plugs pop out, there are most likely more severe damage to the block at other places. Core plugs is a more correct term.

The original threaded plugs are made of steel/iron and are just as solid as brass plugs, but brass is not a good choice for a plug in a cast iron block, because of galvanic corrosion.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Notadieselmechanic said:


> Thank you to everyone who posted advice. So I did split the tractor and sure enough the freeze plug in the engine block was leaking. I called the ford / new Holland dealer and they said it should come out easy. Well..... not so easy after all. Turns out my tractor fell into the 14months that ford installed screw in freeze plugs, what a PIA. After alot of chisel work I was able to remove the old plug . The parts guy at the counter was surprised to find out they used the screw type. He was able to find some new ones in Canada for $20+ shipping and $56 for the plug (each). With a little more research I was able to learn that you can replace them with a 1-1/2" brass screw in plug from a plumbing store for $10. I am replacing bearings and seals while I'm in there. The clutch plate looks good but the pressure plate needs a little work. I hope to get the tractor back together this weekend. A friend is rebuilding the hydraulic pump for me turns out I'm pulling engine into the hydraulics.
> My next project is to tackle the slow to start issue. I did install a new battery before unloading it and that helped to spin it faster but it still took awhile to start.
> So again any advice is greatly appreciated.


Choose a steel/iron screw plug.
*** Edit
Found plugs:








McMaster-Carr


McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.




www.mcmaster.com




***

Another solution is to grind away the threads, enough to make room for a press fit or dish type plug. Since it leaked, the threads may be destroyed by rust, and a new screw in plug will not seal because of that?


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Makes sense!


----------



## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

pogobill said:


> Just thinking that using a 1-1/2" brass screw in pipe plug may be like using a 3/4" bolt to replace a blown electrical fuse, No?


My understanding is that freeze plugs are paper thin even when new to provide freeze protection, cracked block or cylinder head, with adequate expansion per the area of the freeze plug to prevent major damage. Sometimes this doesn't work well and you end up with unwanted damage, but rest guaranteed it will be considerably less than using a solid plug. They do rust out quickly if the coolant system is improperly maintained with antifreeze and corrosion inhibitors. These motors have been here for 70 plus years and many are still daily drivers. i believe the designers knew what they were doing and turned out an excellent product. Why try to redo something that already works well.


----------



## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

If you find a plug rusted through, you must pay more attention to your coolant in future...


----------

