# Think I screwed up please help!!!!



## jjohnf (Dec 5, 2014)

I was going to check my hydraulic fluid level on my 3000 ford gas tractor that I recently acquired. The high level plug was rounded off so there was a bolt directly underneath, so in my thought process that had to be the low level check. NOPE!!! Don't know what it is, but I know what it aint. Can someone please tell me what that is and how do I get it back in. When I put the bolt back in it will not catch on anything. I'm afraid what ever it went to dropped inside. Can I remove, what appears to be and inspection panel on the other side if the housing to get to it? My books on the tractor are useless.
Also, what caused me to check the hydraulic fluid is the 3 point goes up and wont go down. I understand it gravity down, but I put my weight on it with lever in lower position and nothing. with tractor running with the lever in the lower position the 3 point goes up. Anyway I've got a mess to deal with.

Thanks in advance


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Hello jjohnf,

This is a fairly easy fix. Drain off some of the fluid in the rear differential section to give yourself some working room. If its milky in color, good time to change it. The drain plug for the rear end is down under the drawbar on my tractor. I have to slide the drawbar back to get to the drain plug. 

Yes, you pull the access cover on the opposite side. The screw you removed holds either one or two brackets in place internally. Get your wife to turn the screw while you hold the brackets in place. It's as easy as that!

You may want to get a new gasket for the access cover.


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Regarding the lift arms sticking in the up position, do you have the position control lever in the "up" position? The "down" or horizontal position is the draft control position, which can cause some strange lift behavior. Draft control is used primarily for plowing, to keep the plows in the ground at a set level. 

There is an 4"x6" accessory cover plate on top of the lift cover (right between your legs as you are seated on the tractor). There is a plug on that plate that will allow you to bleed pressure if the lift arms are stuck in the "up" position. Be aware - it's going to make a mess when you pull the plug. 

It may be a stuck unloader valve. The unloader valve is a hydraulically operated valve that directs the fluid either to the lift cylinder or to the sump. Dirty hydraulic fluid is the most likely cause for a stuck unloader valve. 

You will have to pull the lift cover to get to the unloader valve. The lift cover is heavy, you'll need a strong helper or an engine hoist. You might as well check everything if you pull the lift cover. Before you start, you need to get an I&T shop manual and study up on what you need to do.


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## jjohnf (Dec 5, 2014)

Thanks guys for all the help. You were correct, the hydraulic fluid was like jello. I have it disassembled and am going to give it a thorough cleaning. Was considering using diesel fuel for a cleaning agent. Any thoughts?


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## jjohnf (Dec 5, 2014)

That bolt held the small hydraulic line in place that goes down to the filter/strainer. That brown crap is what came out of reservoir.


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Excellent pictures. keep them coming!

You need to change the transmission fluid also. I'm sure it's bad, based upon your rear end fluid! Use Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF) equivalent to Ford spec 134D in both sections. You can get this fluid at tractor supply stores, auto parts stores, and wal-mart. Check the label on the bucket to see that it meets 134D specifications. I like the "Travelers" brand at TSC. Five gallon bucket $40.

Incidentally, that bolt you accidentally pulled was originally a slotted head screw. Someone else has BTDT!

You are definitely a "git-er-done" type of guy! Diesel should be fine for cleaning it out. There's a suction screen on bottom that needs to be cleaned. Have to pull the shaft out to get to it. And the discharge filter up top. Make sure that you service the unloader valve and the safety valve. Also replace the cam follower pin if it has any wear, which it probably has. The I&T manual will guide you through the final adjustment procedure.

Good Luck, and keep us posted.


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## jjohnf (Dec 5, 2014)

Thanks Harvey, wonder if it would be safe to circulate that diesel fuel for a couple of minutes to flush lines?


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## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

Diesel is often used to flush out the reservoir. Some guys add a couple of quarts of ATF in 5 gallons of diesel.


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## jjohnf (Dec 5, 2014)

Thanks EDF


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## jjohnf (Dec 5, 2014)

What's the best way to tell if my generator/alternator is charging. I had to completely redo the wiring due to rodents chewing the wires to oblivion. Now my charge lite on instrument cluster is on when tractor is running. I've ran the tractor for long periods of time in my shop (currently restoring) with no issues, but I don't want to be away from ship when I figure out its not charging and dies. Thank


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Measure the voltage across the battery with the engine "off". Should be just over 12V. Measure again with the engine running. Should measure 13-14V. 

You can "flash the field" of the generator to polarize it. Run a wire from battery "hot" post to the generator field terminal. Touch the wire momentarily to the field terminal on the side of the generator. If the generator has lost polarization for some reason, this will get it charging again.

You can check the generator by running it as a motor. Pull the belt off of it. Run a wire from battery hot post to both the generator armature and field posts. The generator should spin/run as a motor. If the generator runs as a motor, it is good. 

Check your wiring to the generator light. I attached a wiring diagram I found on the internet (posted on the YT forum by *JMOR*)


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## jjohnf (Dec 5, 2014)

Thanks sixbales, I will try those.


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## jjohnf (Dec 5, 2014)

Where can I find a good schematic of instrument cluster and associated wiring for a 3000 gas 67' model? Mice chewed all the wiring beyond recognition, I've tried to reconnect the best I can but I would like a good diagram to ensure all is correct. I am going to buy a new instrument cluster and while I'm in there want to get it right.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

See attached wiring diagram for a Basildon-built 3000. Should be the same as a US-built tractor. If you purchase an I&T shop manual for your tractor ($30), there is a wiring diagram in the back of the manual.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Here are wiring diagrams: http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2963
Note that there is one for the tractors assembled in USA (the tractor´s serial number starts with a "C") and the tractors assembled in Europe (starts with "A" or "B").

Attached files give some more info.

The instrument cluster can be tricky, here is a thread about it (scroll down to post #11): http://www.tractorforum.com/f203/72-ford-4000-a-22050/


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