# Starting, Electrical problems



## mwooldri

Just realized I post this originally in the big tractor area. Should have been here.

I am having problems starting. When I turn to accessory, the red light turns on then goes dim. I turn to heat glow plugs and no light. I turn to start and hear noise from relays, also feel some electrical shock on the key.

Thought it was a loose ground but check those. Also new battery.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Mark


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## Archdean

YES!! Replace your key switch it is shorting to ground internally!!


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## mwooldri

*What I thought....*

Archdean,

I agree but the switch seems to be soldered in. I was hoping it would be simplier. I tried swithing the relays and they all did thi same thing. Why are ignition switches so easy to break. They are so simple in design.

Mark


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## chrpmaster

Welcome to the Tractor Forum!! artydanc 

I'm not sure about how easy they are to break but normally they are easy and cheap enough to replace that Deans advice would be right on. 

Your saying the wires on the back of your ignition are soldered on?!?:dazed: 

Most of them I've seen are the spade/flat kind that just slide on and off unless they are rusted and then its nice to have a set of replacement ends and just clip them off. Some people call them bayonet connectors but I think that had more to do with the outcome if the connector slipped and you jambed your thumb onto one#[email protected]$: 

If some previous owner soldered them on you may have to replace the connectors on the wires when you replace the ignition switch. check with your dealer for more info on your model.

Keep us updated on your progress.


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## mwooldri

*Factory....*

I bought the tractor new around 2000. It is a TC33D. Just checked it again and its assembly with a connector. Switch has 4 wires. I check resistence from lug 1 to other 3 in off, acc, heat and start. I also check if any also could be grounding to switch cylinder and none did.

Seems like it may be something else or I didn't test the switch correctly.

Any ideas?


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## John-in-Ga

Hi mwooldri, welcome to Tractorforum

Electrical problems can be hard to diagnose when you are up close and personal; with them at a distance they can really be a challenge. 

I know you’ll want to kill me for asking this, but do you have all the safety switches set to the “start position” - PTO disengaged, clutch depressed, transmission out of gear - that sort of thing?

You write: “I turn to start and hear noise from relays, also feel some electrical shock on the key.” Could you explain “feel some electrical shock on the key”? Did you feel this before you started having a problem starting this tractor. If you getting a electrical sensation from only 12 volts, you must be really sensitive to electricity! 

You say you have a new battery. Have you started this tractor since the new battery was installed. If not then was the battery cables reversed during installation? The red battery cable should go the battery’s positive post. 

It is possible that the starter bendix is locked into the flywheel ring gear. Should this be the case, try rocking the flywheel backwards and forwards. You should hear a faint click when the ring gear releases the bendix. 

You write: “I check resistence from lug 1 to other 3 in off, acc, heat and start. I also check if any also could be grounding to switch cylinder and none did.” Did you also check for a short between all the combinations of lugs? Once you have determined there are no shorts there, that should rule out the switch being shorted internally. 

Try this: Determine which lug is being fed battery voltage. Leave it connected. Disconnect the accessory and heater glow plug wires and try to start? If the starter turns, then the short is in one of disconnected circuits. Connect them one at a time to determine which and we’ll go from there.


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## mwooldri

*Success!!!!*

Thanks all who contributed. I tried all the basic stuff, saftey switches, moving the flywell, checking the switch, etc. Thought more about in on my 1hr 20min drive home. Had an event at school for my daughter and then I got to come home and try a few things. Started out trying to eliminate circuits but that proved difficult since I didn't know where/how to disconect.

Then by chance, I had the key on ACC and no lights. Used a wrence to make sure the positive terminal was on and when I touched the terminal I heard some clicking. Pulled the wire and looked. The positive connector was not real gray, seem to have a film of stuff on it. Got my wire brushes and cleaned it good 'till it was all gray and new looking again.

Success!!!!! tractor works again. Just goes to show that you need to go back to the real basics. Make sure acid build up is not grounding out your system

Thanks again

Mark


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## glenn27

Mark--that is good news that you figured it out....I know I've had to walk away, and think about things--then come back, and the answer is so obvious, or my son (a Cat mechanic) said look at this----DUH?!?:argh: :argh: 

It's all about learning something new, when I do, I feel like I have not wasted the entire day...:zzzs:


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## thatsnobull

when i turn key to start tractor it only makes a clicking sound, will now turn over but the battery sounds strong


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## sixbales

Clean all connections in the starting circuit to bare metal. Especially grounds. Have the battery checked at an auto parts store. After doing the above, if it still "clicks", pull the starter and clean the bendix assembly. I generally lube the bendix.


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## donericksen

have a tc35da-put tractor away for day -next day would not start-get a clicking sound but nothing to starter-replaced starter and keyed switch-checked fuses-checked positive and negative at battery what else can I check


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## sixbales

Howdy donerickson,

Welcome aboard the Ford/New Holland tractor forum.

I would start by checking safety switches, by putting a jumper wire across them one at a time and checking results. These newfangled tractors have a number of safety switches. I'm certain that you are aware of all of them on your TC35DA. Transmission neutral safety switch. PTO safety switch. Seat safety switch. Handbrake safety switch. What else??

Post back results. The above posts cover just about everything else. I assume your battery is good? I have batteries that check good till you put a load on them.


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## harry16

Have you cleaned the battery connections? Pull the cable connectors off the battery and scrape them to bare metal. Also the battery terminals and ground connections. Might also be a defective cable. Or defective battery. 

All of the above will give you these symptoms.


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## gofast4

I can see that I'm not the only one who has had starting problems - misery loves company! 

I have a TZ24DA that I have occasionally had to move the Hi/Lo handle to get the tractor to turn over. Used the tractor on Saturday, yesterday tried to start it and had nothing. No sound from the starter. Tried moving the Hi/Lo lever but wasn't able to get anything from it. Battery is new and has plenty of power, and there is power to the starter. I assume there is a neutral safety switch for the transmission, but where can that be found? I pulled off the left rear tire to get a better look at things but don't see any direct connection from the lever to a switch? 

Any ideas?

Thanks!


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## sixbales

Howdy gofast4,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

The most common safety switch failure is the seat safety switch (see item #29 on attached diagram). 

I think the neutral safety switch you are looking for is item #27 on attached diagram (HST/PTO safety switch). 

I'm sure that you have a brake safety switch.

Another possibility is item #39 on the parts diagram (safety relay P/N SBA385230300). 

Good luck.


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## gofast4

Hi sixbales, thanks for the response. The seat switch had been disabled before I purchased the tractor, so that shouldn't be the problem. The HST/PTO switch sure could be what I'm looking for. I could hear and feel the relay energizing when I turned on the key and could also hear it when I moved the TO lever, but nothing from the hi/lo lever.

Thanks!


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## gofast4

Took my tractor to the dealer. Had to ratchet strap it to move it onto my trailer as it wouldn't start. Rolled it off the trailer for the shop, never tried to start it. Mechanic climbs on, turns the key and it starts right off. He checked all the applicable wiring and with the exception of a switch that was wired wrong that wouldn't affect starting, everything was ok. Guess that if this happens again I should just load it on my trailer and take it for a ride, just like a baby that won't go to sleep. Just bouncing in the car or on a trailer makes it feel better and makes everything ok.....


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## Mary

I have a Tz24DA tractor. When I was on an incline the tractor would quit running. I finally put in new lines, fuel filters, cleaned out the fuel tank and actually had a mechanic take a look at it who said that was all I could do. It ran fine for 3 days then stopped and I could get the click of the starter but only for a few seconds. Checked the battery it's okay. It will click just fine but if I turn the key it loses it sounds like its having a slow gagging death. Any ideas?


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## Guest

Mary, I don't know about the Tz24DA in particular, and certainly don't mean to give misinformation......have you read this thread from the beginning? Also, I had this kind of problem with my lawn tractor and decided in the end that the engine would overheat and even with a fully charged battery (usually 12.6v or higher), the starter couldn't turn it over. So, what happens if you leave it sit for a couple hours and then try to start it? Also as starter windings overheat, they sometimes fuse together and then starter no longer has its full power.


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## Mary

Thank you for answering so quickly! I actually think it was overheating at the end. The battery is fully charged. For the past 2 weeks it would start right up and run for 15 or 20 minutes then it would shake for 30 seconds or so and quit. If I waited for a few minutes I could usually get it started and limp up to where I stored it. As the days went by it got harder and harder and now when I turn the key to do the electric start it sounds good but once I fully engage the key it starts the clicking sounds like a death knell. Yes I've read this page as well as the first 54 pages of the community. I think it's electrical but who knows. I'm willing to put a new starter in if its needed but would need to know where it's located. I will order the part online and have it shipped to me.


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## Guest

I do recommend you wait just a bit on purchasing a starter......give some of the more knowledgeable guys a chance to answer. They've pointed me in the right direction several times. You mention you think the engine might be overheating? Why do you think that and what have you checked as a possible cause? Sounds you've had this tractor for some time, so you know at least some of it's history. Here is a link to a NH dealer where you can look up parts diagrams for your tractor, so will show aprox where they are http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/HINESEQUIP/index.html unfortunately, it leads to the one closest to me, but you can select a different dealer.


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## Bill Kapaun

Mary said:


> ........Checked the battery it's okay.........


HOW did you check the battery? If you didn't have it load tested, you haven't tested the battery.
If you are getting kind of a "machine gun" sound, it's indicative of a bad/discharged battery or bad connection on the battery cables.
What happens-
Solenoid engages-
Starter motor draws more current than the battery can deliver- (or can pass through the battery/starter cables/connections)
Voltage drops too low and the solenoid "drops out"-
Since there is no longer a load from the starter motor, battery voltage jumps back up and the solenoid reengages-
REPEAT (rapidly)


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## Guest

How's it coming? BTW almost all auto parts stores have a device to load test your battery, all you need to do is drive into their parking lot and they will bring the tester out to your car.


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## Glenn B

Archdean said:


> YES!! Replace your key switch it is shorting to ground internally!!


I have a similar problem but when I turn the glow light on the main fuse blows


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