# New Holland Boomer T2220 won't turn over



## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

My 2009 New Holland won't even crank over. I've checked the seat safety, and the main fuses. the battery is good. It's like the starter won't even engage. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I can start to look to fix this? I'm looking to start on the simple to work toward the difficult. I need to get it running so that I can plow my driveway. UGH!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!


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## Guest

Hi and welcome from another member. I don't know beans about a 2009 NH, but I would suggest using jumper cables, observing all normal safety precautions when starting, even though you said battery was good. If jumper cables battery to battery doesn't work, on the tractor end put the (assuming negative ground) negative to a good ground and the hot cable to the main power contact of the starter. Works best with 2 people so one can be in drivers seat to turn on the key and once again observing all safety precautions. Good luck


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

Thank you - will try. If that doesn't work, what would be my next step? And where would I find the main contact point on the starter? lol


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## Hoodoo Valley

PTO is disengaged right? If it has a safety switch for it, won't start if PTO is engaged. Do you get anything at all? Can you hear the fuel pump churning? Lights?


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## Guest

You're in good hands with tractor beam!


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## Hoodoo Valley

Graysonr said:


> You're in good hands with tractor beam!


Agh.....ha.........ha........ha!

I used to listen to "Car Talk" on the radio. It was funny, they'd get a call about some weird thing that just defied logic and after some squirming in their seats, would reply with something like..... "Doesn't anyone screen these calls" or "Well, that's the end of the show as we're out of time!"

I just hope it's something simple for Newcountry.


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

tractor beam said:


> PTO is disengaged right? If it has a safety switch for it, won't start if PTO is engaged. Do you get anything at all? Can you hear the fuel pump churning? Lights?


PTO is disengaged. Don't hear the fuel pump, dash lights worked ok....not even a "click" when turning the key..


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## Guest

Yes, I hope so too. Nothing more aggravating than a tractor that won't tractor when needed most.


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## RC Wells

Start by removing the battery cable connectors and cleaning the terminals and inside of the clamps. Remove the negative connection first, and reconnect it last for safety. If clean terminals and connections do not solve the problem, New Holland has a reputation for failed key switches. Check that to be sure power is reaching the plastic terminal clip on the starter solenoid when the key is switched to the start position - takes someone to actuate the key and another person with a voltmeter lead on the solenoid terminal and another to a clean ground. If it is dead, you likely have a switch problem.

If the battery is good, and you are absolutely certain the 50 amp main fuse is good, try jumpering the starter solenoid to start it. 

Make sure tractor is in neutral, brakes locked, then use a heavy gauge wire to jump from the battery cable connector on the starter to the solenoid actuation terminal. This is not a permanent connection, just hold it enough to crank the engine over. The solenoid actuation terminal is the plastic clip type terminal above and behind the battery power lug. 

If the engine does not crank, the starter solenoid or starter needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Here is a pict with the terminals at the bottom:


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

Graysonr said:


> Yes, I hope so too. Nothing more aggravating than a tractor that won't tractor when needed most.


egggsactly!!! Wish me luck - going to go try....


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## Guest

Best of luck....if you are unsure of the "how to" on any step of the instructions offered, be sure to ask the guys.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Graysonr said:


> Yes, I hope so too. Nothing more aggravating than a tractor that won't tractor when needed most.


Yes! Expensive yard ornaments are no good for the working class!


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## bbirder

Just to add a small note to Tractor Beam's suggestion of cleaning the battery terminals. Especially on a tractor of that age make sure you remove, clean and retighten the ground connection on the engine also, not just the battery. Good luck.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Not me B! Someone else, but also, in addition to the ground at chassis, should also check positive at the starter too.


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## bbirder

my bad. Sorry RC.


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## Guest

Wonder how the boomer is....hope they had good luck.


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## gregjo1948

NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN said:


> My 2009 New Holland won't even crank over. I've checked the seat safety, and the main fuses. the battery is good. It's like the starter won't even engage. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where I can start to look to fix this? I'm looking to start on the simple to work toward the difficult. I need to get it running so that I can plow my driveway. UGH!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!


There's probably a safety switch at the seat, the clutch, and possibly the trans. has to be in neutral. 
I'd jump around/bypass all the safety switches one at a time or test them to see if they're
functioning correctly.


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## rsoby

You don't say if this is a regular or hydrostat tractor. On my tractor, hydrostat, , I have 3 ranges and the lever has to be between 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 as there are sensors, and it must work (My 1/2 sensor is hit or miss so I always use the 2/3 position). You can develop "dead spots" on the solenoid - every time you start the engine, you get a point burn on the copper disc in the solenoid. I had to remove mine, sand it down with course paper, then it worked for another 8 years before I had to do it again.


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

It IS a hydrostat. I've reconnected the safety switch under the seat, checked the connection and cables but have yet to jump the battery to the starter. (I'm waiting for a second set of eyes to help with that). I'm hoping to get it going this weekend. I WILL try the level in the 2and 3 position - I've always started it between the 1 and 2 position. It just seems very odd that all of a sudden it refuses to start....but I'll update after I've tried jumping the battery to the starter and checking the solenoid. Thanks! should have another update by Saturday!


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

tractor beam said:


> Yes! Expensive yard ornaments are no good for the working class!


I've got 4 of them that gobble grass....don't need one that gobbles GAS too!!! lol.


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## PSJ

Have you checked to see if the starter is jammed? I've had that happen before. PJ


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## deerhide

'Not a click', it's definitely electrical.


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## dhoten

Have you done ANY maintenance prior to this issue?


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## rhino

I have a question, when you turn the key to the on position do you have dash lights? If no look to see if there is a fuse link on the main wire to the starter. Kunitz has on that is looped wire. I don’t know if your tractor has one. But if I was there I would look for it by the starter. 


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

UPDATE: Changed the starter. 


dhoten said:


> Have you done ANY maintenance prior to this issue?


All recommended maintenance has been done at the manufacturer's recommended timelines.


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

Ok. So I changed out the starter. So far I have this: Battery - 100%, starter - new reman, safety seat switch - check, fuses - checked. When I turn key - I get dash lights, the annoying safety beep. On the warmer days, I THINK I hear a slight "click" when I tried the key. On the colder (single digit) days, I don't even hear a click. I believe that I'm down to the following: either a bad (or frozen) ignition switch or the 50 amp starter fuse....I also took a picture of this connector - it doesn't look "right" to me, so I thought I'd ask for advice if this is the way it is supposed to look.


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## marc_hanna

Do you have a multimeter? Whenever I’m investigating a fault, that’s what I use. In the second pic the lead attached to the connector is red, and therefore is probably a single conductor positive lead. 

If you can locate the starter solenoid, with key on, jump the two poles with a screwdriver and see if it cranks. Double check that 50amp fuse though first. You can test it with the multimeter, it’s not always easy to tell if they’re blown just by visible inspection. 


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

marc_hanna said:


> Do you have a multimeter? Whenever I’m investigating a fault, that’s what I use. In the second pic the lead attached to the connector is red, and therefore is probably a single conductor positive lead.
> 
> If you can locate the starter solenoid, with key on, jump the two poles with a screwdriver and see if it cranks. Double check that 50amp fuse though first. You can test it with the multimeter, it’s not always easy to tell if they’re blown just by visible inspection.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum


I will try that next. Thank you!


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## sixbales

It appears that one pin is broken off in the male connector in the first picture. Are there two wires to each side of the connector?


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## marc_hanna

sixbales said:


> It appears that one pin is broken off in the male connector in the first picture. Are there two wires to each side of the connector?


That was my suspicion at first, but in the second pic it looks like there is just one red lead coming off it. It’s not uncommon for not all pins in a connector to be used, though it is a little strange in a two pin connector.


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## sixbales

Howdy NewCountryWoman, welcome to the tractor forum.

See attached safety system electrical diagram. This diagram is for a New Holland 2030 tractor and was posted by a guy named "Solo" on the TBN forum. This should be very close to your NH 2220's safety system. From this diagram we can see that you have the following safety switches:
1) Transmission neutral start safety switch.
2) Mid PTO safety switch.
3) Operator seat safety switch.
4) Main PTO safety start switch.
5) Parking brake safety switch.

I have read on the internet that all of these safety switches report to a Safety Control Module, which is quite expensive. I cannot find this on NH parts diagrams, but I have encountered this type of "black box" computer on a small Kubota that I have. Check with your New Holland dealership to learn if this safety control module exists on your tractor.


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## sixbales

See attached electrical equipment location diagram, and fuse location diagram. Note on the fuse diagram, there is a single 40 amp fuse separate from the fusebox.


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

does anyone have a picture of what the 40 amp fuse looks like? I see what the outer view of the 40 amp fuse looks like, but I guess I'm not 1000% sure what it would look like if it was bad. So....switching to another area....if the dash lights come on, then it WOULDN'T be the ignition switch? What about a relay? Anyone have a picture of what a relay looks like? I've learned alot since I moved to the country...but still learning the tractor parts...


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## marc_hanna

Fuses can look like any of the following:

























If it’s burnt, you can usually see that the wavy piece of metal in the middle is broken. But not always. I double check them with my multimeter by setting it on ohms and setting it to the beep setting.

Your starter relay, or solenoid will be mounted to you starter and will look like this:








And on the started like this:








Other relays for wipers, and turn signals and what not typically look like this:










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## marc_hanna

Here’s some pictures of burnt fuses:

























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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

marc_hanna said:


> Here’s some pictures of burnt fuses:
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> Sent from my iPad using Tractor Forum


Thanks! I knew what the "normal" fuses look like....wasn't too sure if the other fuse going to the starter was a different configuration. Since we got another 2 inches of snow...I've GOTTA get this thing running!


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

I'm just curious....If the dash lights turn on with the "first" turn of the key (ie getting the glow light on to warm up), but doesn't turn over, doesn't even CLICK, then I'm looking for a fuse? Any other suggestions? I do know that I owe an answer on the terminal question I asked earlier. I'll go try those and send an update soon.....Thank you!


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## marc_hanna

No click tells me the solenoid is not operating. Now that can be for a number of reasons. 1) a burnt fuse 2) a safety switch 3) a bad solenoid - these are the most likely in my opinion. If your visual inspection turns up nothing, then I think you should try to rule out the solenoid first. 


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## marc_hanna

After you have ruled out any loose wires and tested the fuses, wiggled the seat in case the safety switch is sticking, double-checked that the PTO switch is off, etc, then we can check the solenoid. I would also double check again that the solenoid is not clicking when you turn the key - maybe get someone to stand with their ear close to it - it is a distinct audible mechanical click sound.

The solenoid can be ruled out quickly and easily, but some people are not comfortable with the following approach. Go through the typical procedure for starting up you tractor up until you’ve completed the glow plug cycle. Instead of then turning the key to crank it over, jump the terminals on the solenoid with a heavy duty screwdriver. Make sure you are not touching any metal with your hands, or you’re in for quite the jolt. If the tractor cranks, starts up, and continues to run, you have a bad solenoid - bad fuses, cooked or loose wires, and faulty safety switches will prevent at least one of those things from happening. In addition, if it does turn out to be a bad solenoid, you can continue to start and use the tractor in this fashion until you are able to get it repaired. Just be warned, you are at risk of electric shock and burns! You have the full cranking amps of the battery passing through the screwdriver. You will also observe sparks on initial contact and there will be burn marks on the screwdriver. The key is to make the connection as quick as possible, to minimize arching.

If that does not enable the tractor to run then we will have to investigate further.


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

This sounds incredibly stupid, but when the starter was removed (I didn't remove it), and was put back on, there are a custer of black wires leading to a metal connector. I do not know where this gets connected. On the starter or on the tractor frame itself???


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## marc_hanna

Can you take a picture?


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

I'll take one once the sun rises and post it. For now, I'm wondering about a "simple" wiring schematic - one that shows the starter and the "firewall" of the tractor - the black wiring is coming out from behind the dash and connects to.......

I'm pretty sure its the ignition wiring going to the starter (?) I just don't know where it gets attached....


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## marc_hanna

I’m not 100% sure of your timeline of events. Has the tractor been started after the the starter was replaced? Or was replacing the starter one of the things you tried in order to fix the problem? 

Also, you say it is a remanufactured starter - did you get the original rebuilt or did you trade it in for one that was already rebuilt? 


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## NEWCOUNTRYWOMAN

I bought a reman starter when the tractor didn’t start after I had the battery checked out. I bought another starter already built. I believe that this ignition harness needs to be attached to the solenoid, but not sure where.


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## marc_hanna

That could very well be the case. 

Still, I think you need to make sure the solenoid is operating. I would think if that connector operates the solenoid there would be a matching one connected to the starter assembly.


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## DMC

gregjo1948 said:


> There's probably a safety switch at the seat, the clutch, and possibly the trans. has to be in neutral.
> I'd jump around/bypass all the safety switches one at a time or test them to see if they're
> functioning correctly.


I have the TZ25DA. I am stumped. I was home over thanksgiving and I couldn’t get it to start. ( crank) I came home for Easter and it started right up. I used it for 2 days starting and stopping a dozen times with no issue. Got on it yesterday, will not start. I have a new battery, bypassed all the safety switches, still no starting. I have power to the starter, but not the cylanoid when I turn the key. I can crank it by shorting across the starter but it won’t start. I have pulled the ignition switch and blown it out, put it all back together, still same thing. Will not crank. HELP ME. It’s blocking my boat in the shop, and it’s Crappie time.


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