# 8n running issues



## jim43 (Jul 25, 2021)

Hello, I have had my 1952 for 15 plus years and had never had any running problems until now. It will run a few minutes then it will act like its running out of fuel then quit. I will wait a couple of minutes then it will start right up and do the same thing again. Here is what I have done so far. I thought it was a carb issue so I cleaned the carb a reset the float level. It didn't make a difference. I have replaced the coil, fuel tank ( it was rusted out on the top) sediment bowl, battery, alternator, dist ributor, cap, rotor, plug wires, points , condensor, I have also by passed the ignition switch to see if that made a difference. No difference. I bypassed the ammeter, no difference. I am at a loss on what to do next. What am I missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Jim43


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Sticky governor rod? Plugged screen at the fuel inlet at the carb? Loosen the gas cap and see if you get any improvement.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

If you have a ballast resistor in your ignition setup, check that, better still, run a hot wire from the battery straight to the coil and start the tractor and see what happens, the resistor is the only part you haven't replaced.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

You can check fuel deliverability of your system by pulling the plug from the bottom of the carburetor and catch the fuel in a pint jar. It should fill the pint jar in 2-3 minutes.


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## jim43 (Jul 25, 2021)

FredM said:


> If you have a ballast resistor in your ignition setup, check that, better still, run a hot wire from the battery straight to the coil and start the tractor and see what happens, the resistor is the only part you haven't replaced.


Thanks for getting back with me so soon. I did try another ballast resistor and nothing changed. Are you suggesting running a wire from the + side of the battery to the + side of the coil. Do I run the risk of hurting the points or coil? Thanks,Jim


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## jim43 (Jul 25, 2021)

sixbales said:


> You can check fuel deliverability of your system by pulling the plug from the bottom of the carburetor and catch the fuel in a pint jar. It should fill the pint jar in 2-3 minutes.


I did that and it checked out ok. Thanks, Jim


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## jim43 (Jul 25, 2021)

pogobill said:


> Sticky governor rod? Plugged screen at the fuel inlet at the carb? Loosen the gas cap and see if you get any improvement.


Hello, I did all the above and nothing has changed. I am wondering about the key switch. I did bypass and nothing changed. I am stumped on this one. Thanks,Jim


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

jim43 said:


> Hello, I did all the above and nothing has changed. I am wondering about the key switch. I did bypass and nothing changed. I am stumped on this one. Thanks,Jim


If your tractor is original, it is 6V positive ground system. When you say 'bypass" do you mean you ran a hotwire from the battery hot (negative terminal on battery) directly to the coil input (negative terminal on coil).


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

sixbales said:


> If your tractor is original, it is 6V positive ground system. When you say 'bypass" do you mean you ran a hotwire from the battery hot (negative terminal on battery) directly to the coil input (negative terminal on coil).


Thanks sixbales, I have a memory slip with the early models being 6 volt positive ground, shouldn't I know because I grew up with this pommy system, anyway, thanks for the correction.


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## jim43 (Jul 25, 2021)

sixbales said:


> If your tractor is original, it is 6V positive ground system. When you say 'bypass" do you mean you ran a hotwire from the battery hot (negative terminal on battery) directly to the coil input (negative terminal on coil).


The tractor was converted to a 12 volt system before I bought it.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Does your dissy have a mechanical advance and retard plate that carries the points and condensor?, if so, does it have a short wire tail from point connection to insulated block in the side of the dissy, or it may go from the point connection through the insulator and connect to the coil post, change that, the internal copper core sometimes will fracture and make an open circuit, not saying this is your problem, it's just not too much left to try.


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## whip (May 21, 2021)

jim43 said:


> Hello, I have had my 1952 for 15 plus years and had never had any running problems until now. It will run a few minutes then it will act like its running out of fuel then quit. I will wait a couple of minutes then it will start right up and do the same thing again. Here is what I have done so far. I thought it was a carb issue so I cleaned the carb a reset the float level. It didn't make a difference. I have replaced the coil, fuel tank ( it was rusted out on the top) sediment bowl, battery, alternator, dist ributor, cap, rotor, plug wires, points , condensor, I have also by passed the ignition switch to see if that made a difference. No difference. I bypassed the ammeter, no difference. I am at a loss on what to do next. What am I missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sincerely, Jim43


did you clean between the float seat and fuel inlet I once had the same problem only to find a piece of dirt or something above the seat.


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## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

My troubleshooting methods may be odd but I would try (temporarily of course) a one gallon gas container with rubber fuel line feeding carb. Strapped on of course, but this would at least eliminate tank since it's now supplied with clean fuel.
If it still acts up:
It's a 4 cylinder, right? I would unplug one plug wire and put one of those inexpensive spark testers in series. It will run, and see how bright it is running tractor in evening. When it starts acting up see if tester light is either dim or out. Now you know ignition problems.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

New fuel tank not vented correctly resulting in enough of a vacuum to stop fuel flow? (Fuddy's idea would show that).
Carb inlet screen packed or restricted by old tank's rust? 
If you have an aftermarket in-line fuel filter - ditch it - should never be used in gravity feed system. 
If sediment bowl equipped check filter screen check it. 
All fuel line connections tight with no cracks in fuel lines or double flair connections? 
When you cleaned the carb did you blow air back all the way to the sediment bowl to double check no plug-ups? 
We've all "been there" and know that the answer is simple - just time consuming.

- Joe -


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