# 8N locked in neutral



## Berg4451 (Mar 22, 2021)

Hello,
A while back did a complete clutch replacement on my 8N...TO bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc. Got it back together and it worked like new. I was thinking of getting a one bottom plow to burn the carbon out of the engine. Went back one day and the tractor wouldn't go into gear...you can feel the clutch pushing on the TO bearing and things going to a halt in the tranny. It won't go into any gear, engine running or stopped. No grinding or other noises. This tractor has that starter switch with the safety feature that you can't start the tractor without the clutch being depressed. That isn't working...you can start the tractor standing on the ground along side the tractor. What would keep the tractor from shifting into gear? Any suggestions much appreciated...


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello Berg4451, welcome to the tractor forum.

Remove the transmission cover, taking care not to lose detent spring and ball held down by the cover. Have a look around to see if you can spot anything out of place. Do some light prying with a crowbar to get it shifting into reverse and second, first and third. Lube the sliding surfaces well, get them moving freely, and put it all back together. 

Each time you take the tractor out, give it a high speed run to throw oil / lubricate the shift mechanism.


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## Berg4451 (Mar 22, 2021)

BigT said:


> Hello Berg4451, welcome to the tractor forum.
> 
> Remove the transmission cover, taking care not to lose detent spring and ball held down by the cover. Have a look around to see if you can spot anything out of place. Do some light prying with a crowbar to get it shifting into reverse and second, first and third. Lube the sliding surfaces well, get them moving freely, and put it all back together.
> 
> Each time you take the tractor out, give it a high speed run to throw oil / lubricate the shift mechanism.


Thanks for your reply...it's been a while (like a year) since I've taken the cover off and looked inside. The detent spring and ball you mention I'm trying to remember. I'll look again and try what you suggest. It seems you would be able to pry the slide mechanism and make progress. Will let you know what I find. Thanks again.


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## Berg4451 (Mar 22, 2021)

Hello, Did what you suggested and carefully checked out the cover and gearbox. The starter switch with the safety interlock was not retracting all the way (it's the original and was really sticky) so I changed it out with a new one I bought a few years back...THAT FIXED IT!!! Shifts like a new tractor! How much oil should be in that gear box? Is their a plug to check the level? Also, the new switch came with a fiber washer that I installed below the switch...the old one didn't have that. Now, as soon as I connect the wire to the switch, the starter cranks...and continues running when the tractor is running. I have to disconnect the battery. Is it possible the switch needs to br grounded to the tractor?


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Berg4451 said:


> How much oil should be in that gear box? Is their a plug to check the level? Also, the new switch came with a fiber washer that I installed below the switch...the old one didn't have that. Now, as soon as I connect the wire to the switch, the starter cranks...and continues running when the tractor is running. I have to disconnect the battery. Is it possible the switch needs to br grounded to the tractor?


While I hesitate to comment on those nearly new 8N models (I have a '40 9N) I can say that a constantly running starter is ever-so-wrong. 

It sounds as though the starter switch may be sticking 'in/on' instead of popping back out (and therefore off) when released. Sometimes "Sally" (my tractor, silly, my 9N tractor) has a sticky starter switch that I have to pull out to the normal, engine running, position when she fires up. Probably just a little squirt of WD-40 shot up inside the starter switch should fix Sally's little mis-behavin' even though a thorough cleaning and a tiny bit of lubrication might help even more-so. - Joe -


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Your starter switch makes a ground contact when you push it down to complete the start circuit. Sounds like your switch is shorted to ground..... completes the start circuit full time. Check it out with an ohmmeter.


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## Berg4451 (Mar 22, 2021)

Thank you for the reply. I tried what was suggested to see if I could get it to work. No way...I can believe a new switch could be bad, but as soon as I touch the wire to it, the starter cranks and keeps on cranking no matter what. I re-installed the old one, after cleaning it up and lubing. That works...just a little finicky...I'll try the ohmmeter.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

AHhh Big T, did I misunderstand something here?

"Your starter switch makes a ground contact when you push it down to complete the start circuit. "

The start switch button controls the power to the electro magnetic circuit inside the solenoid - not the ground. Power to that "electro-switch' closes the internal contacts to let the battery's full power continue on to the starter. The starter uses that full power to turn and start the engine. Releasing the starter button stops the power going to the electro magnetic circuit (the switch) inside the solenoid, resulting in the contacts opening up and the power flow to the starter stopping.

Two circuits in play - the "start button" controlling the closing or opening of the main power contacts and the 'controlled' main starter circuit power now going to the starter and stopping when the button is released.

The tractor's ground side is just the return path for the electricity returning back to the battery after completing both, independent, activities (or circuits). From an electrical standpoint grounds are never 'switched' or 'controlled' and so the starter switch power would rather goe to the solenoid to operate the closing / opening of the contacts for starter power. After the work is done the power returns through the ground and back to the battery through the grounding system.

- Joe -


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## Berg4451 (Mar 22, 2021)

Thanks for your help and ideas...tried the new switch with an ohm meter...it appears to be a dead short...touching the terminal on the switch with the outside of the switch has the same effect as touching the ohm meter leads to each other. Like I said in an earlier post, I lubed up the old switch and reinstalled...it works...I bought this new switch so long ago I guess I just have to pitch it...this 8N has a Sherman high/low transmission...we purchased it back in the 70's because we needed a tractor that goes really slow for pulling an asparagus cart...I mean REALLY slow. Thanks Joe and Big T.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Berg4451 said:


> I bought this new switch so long ago I guess I just have to pitch it.


Berg, when something like this happens to me I "get even" and carefully pull the part open and look to see where it was defective. Usually it's pretty obvious and then, when I'm finished, it gets the Ole' Heave Ho. 

Pretty gratifying to find just, exactly, where / how "things" went awry.

Glad you identified the problem and can get back to doing great and wonderful things now. :~) - Joe -


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