# Gravely 8162



## historicfrankli

Guys,

I have an opportunity to buy a Gravely 8162B for $50.
4 flat tires, engine does have compression, seems to go into all gears, minor rust, lots of orange paint still there, seat is rough and the front grill off eventhough been welded on at one point. Electric start but has a large manual pull-cord type pulley with a notch for the rope knot.

How do I get the deck off to drag the monster on my 4 foot wide trailer? What does the long handle on the right do? Only one petal that seems to be a brake. 

My wife is going to kill me...........again.

Historicfranklin


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## MFreund

I have no ideas for help, but Congratulations on the purchase. Sooner or later she will learn to save her breath.


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## chrpmaster

Welcome to the Tractor Forum Historicfrankli!

As far as the 8162 it sounds like you have found a great restoration project on your hands. To answer your question the mower deck is attached at several points underneath the tractor. There are two points on the frame just behind the front wheels. you need to remove the cotter pins and there are brackets that open up releasing the front hanger. Then there is one point where the lift handle connects underneath the tractors frame. There is a rod that is hooked to the lift bracket and can be removed if you lower the lift handle all the way. Then the pto shaft can be removed by sliding outside ring back then sliding the pto shaft off. Then you can slide the deck sideways out from under the tractor. Actually the owners manual says to backup over the top of the deck but since its not running this is hard to do. 

There are lots of manuals online at www.oldgravelys.net. You can download and print off any you want for free. 

I have a slightly older version of your tractor and love it. Feel free to ask any questions you may have as you go through this project. It sounds like you got a great deal.

Oh ya the handle on the right side is the forward/reverse handle. When the tractor is in gear you can change from forward to reverse by moving the handle. No need to clutch or mess with the gear shift. 

Yes the pedal is the brake. If its adjusted properly it will kick the forward/reverse handle to neutral when you step on it. I don't use it much except in an emergency but its nice to have it when you need it. 

Never saw a manual start rope pull on these. I can't imagine having to pull start one of these beasts. Post a pic of this when you get a chance and let us know how you are coming with it.

Andy


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## Error401

I have two 8125's with Briggs 16hp engines and both have the flywheel with the rope starter. I found the OEM packet with the manuals and the rope starter. I guess in a pinch it'll get it started, but it isn't my proffered method.


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## historicfrankli

*8162B new home*

Here it is folks. This is what $50 buys in Columbia TN.

Mercy, the deck must weigh 170 lbs. 

historicfranklintn


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## chrpmaster

That looks great! Especially for the price. 

If its one of the 50" decks it actually weighs over 200 pounds. 

Good luck with your new project. Stop back and we will do our best to help you out.

Andy


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## historicfrankli

*8162B*

Thanks for the encouragement. First off, I gots no spark. I'm not sure how to check effectively with a meter but I'm getting 2v or so from the coil when I spin past the magnets. Nothing happening at the points. I'm ordering a NOS condenser/points from Ebay and will work my way backward from there maybe replace the coil too. Wiring seems OK but will run it end to end. This unit has sat in a shed maybe 10 years. With a good battery, it does turn over with a turn of the key so I assume that starter control works with the key in the on position to check spark at the engine. There's some wires taped underneith so I suspect some "Tennessee re-engineering" has occured.

Look at the photo. There is a hole/port in the top of the carb elbow. Is there a plug that goes here on this for me or has this corroded through? My 0248-01 type shows carb #392235. Some other similiar carb types have a vacuum fitting and hose there. I have no where for a hose to go to.
Briggs 16hp
Model 326437 type 0248-01 code 79031-41

shows vacuum elbow on intake elbow
http://www.buysmallengineparts.com/parts-breakdown/326400.pdf

does not show vacuum elbow but intake elbow seems same design but no hole showing.
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=toro_commercial&mn=30775,+Groundsmaster+52,+1982+(SN+200001-299999)&dn=3311_846-_8460050-00046

Just going through the list--compression-spark and then fuel delivery.


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## chrpmaster

At first I would have said there should be no additional lines run to that piece but looking at the diagrams makes me wonder. The picture is interesting too. It looks like someone drilled this hole in the intake for some reason. Maybe that intake was taken from a different engine that required the port. If it were me I would just plug it for now and see if you can get it to fire. It sounds like you're going about it in the correct way. Fuel plus spark should get it going. 

Keep us informed on your progress.

Andy


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## historicfrankli

*It's alive! it's alive!*

I got my ebay purchased points and condenser installed and it started up (by rope) with primed gas in the plug hole and it ran with the old crappy gas that's in the tank. I taped that carb hole up and it only runs partially choked and will pop and sputter if choke is all the way off. I'm sure the carb will get a cleaning soon. Mercy, this thing smokes up the back yard pretty good. Any way to tell if I have a stuck ring or is ring replacement recommended on a unit this "experianced". 

Out of questions.

Oh, it easily pops a nice wheelie!!!!!!!!!


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## chrpmaster

Thats great news! Its always satisfying resurrecting one of these great old tractors. 

As far as the rings needing replaced I would check compression with a compression guage. Also if it hasn't run for quite a while I would try to run it for a while (with clean gas) to see if the engine settles down before I would tear the engine down. 

Good luck
Andy


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