# 4000 Ford PTO Shaft



## ICEMAN1 (Jun 2, 2011)

PTO shaft partially slipped out of tractor while operating a bushhog.
Any info or tips before I learn how to repair this the hard way would be much appreciated.


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

What is the problem? Is the male spline buggered up? Dress all the spline surfaces with a file and try to slip it back in. Assuming it won't fit, You've buggered the female spline. Pull the male and clean it up with solvent. shine up dark spots with emery cloth. Take a felt tip marker and color the first inch or two of the shaft on all surfaces. Once the marker is dry, slide the shaft back in as far as it will go and then pull it out and check where the marker is rubbed off. You should be able to figure out where any burrs are and file them off with files that will reach up inside the spline socket.
In the future, make sure your PTO shaft is pinned.


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## ICEMAN1 (Jun 2, 2011)

I'm sorry I was not clear it is the output shaft from the tractor that has come loose.
It has no apparent damage and made no unusual noises when it slipped out.


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

Have you pulled it out the rest of the way? There has to be some way to hold it in place. I would suspect a retaining ring or a pin has failed.


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

A friend says snap ring. I guess there's a cover held on by 4 bolts. Pull that and you should see what's going on.


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## ICEMAN1 (Jun 2, 2011)

Thank you sir, there is a cover I will remove it tommorrow and let you know how it goes.


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

ICEMAN1 said:


> Thank you sir, there is a cover I will remove it tommorrow and let you know how it goes.


Damn! I hope you check here before you tear into it. He says to park the tractor with the front wheels a foot or so lower than the rears so the oil won't run out all over you.


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## ICEMAN1 (Jun 2, 2011)

You did catch me I have started on it yet.
Thanks again.


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

I wonder how Iceman made out...


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## Ratcetoy1 (Aug 19, 2012)

I don't know, But there if it has an independent PTO there is a thrust washer in there that you have to put grease on to hold it up while you are putting the shaft back in. The lever should be in the engaged position, and the thrust washer held up with grease. slide it in, and put the retaining LARGE RETAINING ring in the housing. Then slide put grease on the seal, put the gasket on the retainer and slide them over the shaft and bolt them in place. I covered the inside snap ring with high temp silicone and let it setup to help hold it. The problem of these coming out is usually caused by a binding implement drive shaft that does not slip easily. Mine came out from using a post hole digger and letting it jump out of the hole and bind up. It bound up the slip joint, dished, and broke the inside bearing retainer snap ring.


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## Tippmann98 (Oct 12, 2011)

I have this same problem on a 1965 4000. Is this referring to that model or the earlier 4000s?

I had been brush hogging and the hair pin came out of the hitchpin and then the hitchpin jumped out and for 10 feet or so I was pulling the brush hog just by the pto shaft. I noticed the problem because the shaft slid out of the tractor and ripped the seal exposing a leak. Someone told me I had to split the whole tractor to replace that ring but this thread is saying it can be done from the outside? I would love more info if that is correct. thank you


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

You do not have to split the tractor to repair the PTO shaft. 

The PTO shaft between the tractor and mower has inner and outer sections, and should slip apart if the mower unhitches as you describe. It should not be capable of pulling the mower. So, add that to your "fix it" list. 

Your service manual will detail how to go about pulling the PTO shaft. It's not a big job. I'll give you a brief summarybelow of what you have to do:

Put the the PTO shift lever in the "engaged" position and drain the rear end before removing the PTO shaft. The risk with not engaging the PTO is that the shift collar can fall out of the shift fork. If this is the case, remove the left step plate (foot rest), then remove the shift cover and lever assembly, and place the collar on the PTO countershaft in the transmission before installing the PTO shaft. 

Remove 4 bolts at the rear end and the PTO shaft should slide out. There's a big snap ring that sits up against the rear shaft bearing. The bearing is pressed on the shaft. So, if the shaft slipped out of the rear end, the snap ring has failed and the bearing has either slipped or failed. Replace the seal. 

Shine a light up in the PTO opening to see what you have to do. The PTO shaft has to pass through a seal between the rear end and transmission, and then engage the splines in the shift collar. 

Wait till you get your manual and read up on this procedure.


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## Tippmann98 (Oct 12, 2011)

Every other brush hog I've used has that telescoping PTO shaft that slips apart but this particular mower does not. 

Thanks for the step by step. Other threads I have read mentioned using a broomstick and a lot of grease to get a thrust washer to stay in place but you didn't mention any of that. It sure seems easier going thru that left side step plate cover rather than using the broomstick. I ordered the manual a couple days ago but it probably won't be in for another few days. It's always nice to get input from people that have actually done this before.


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Well, if you have an independent PTO there is a risk of a thrust washer dropping down and blocking to re-installation of the PTO shaft. In which case you do have to use grease to hold the washer in place. Do you have an independent PTO or a clutch driven PTO?? 

I would replace that PTO shaft. Puts too much axial stress on the Tractor's PTO system. I've never seen a PTO shaft that didn't telescope. Must be home-made.


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## Ratcetoy1 (Aug 19, 2012)

As Harry16 posted the trust washer is on an independent PTO, this is not a hard job if you follow the steps and MAKE sure you get the right parts. The snap rings originally used are different from the front side of the bearing, and the rear side, The replacement kit has the same one for both sides, this is fine as the new version sits tighter against the bearing than the old did, thus it gives LESS possibility of back and forth movement of the bearing on the shaft. some kits ALSO contain a "speedy sleeve" for the seal surface of the shaft.


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## Tippmann98 (Oct 12, 2011)

Yes it's an independent PTO. I've learned a lot by reading all the information I can on this forum. . . hopefully my manual will arrive tomorrow and I will get started on it. Thanks for the help Harry and Ratcetoy. I will be posting pictures if I run into any other snags. By the way are there any good websites to order parts from? I will be going to the dealer for these snap rings but for any other parts I'd rather save some money and skip over the dealership.


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## Ratcetoy1 (Aug 19, 2012)

I actually bought the kit from a dealer for about 50 dollars. bearing, snap rings, speedy sleeve, spacer, seal, all parts except a gasket for the cover. Some tractors depending on the application don't use the spacer, or (like mine) didn't need the speedy sleeve, but the kit was cheaper than finding each part. Just be sure to stick that spacer washer with grease, the shaft will slip in pretty easy, but if the washer falls down it will like about two to three inches seating. DO NOT take a chance and try to beat it in with a hammer, once you damage that washer, you will have to split the tractor to fixit, or find a way to get the washer out, and leave it out. that would cause a hot spot, and excessive end play (and quick) wear out of the assembly.


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