# Ariens 931034 w/ M20s won't start



## allenbowman4 (Apr 26, 2014)

Hi all, new to the forum and looking for some help. I have an Ariens 931034 lawn tractor with a Kohler M20s engine. Going to start it this spring, it cranks and will not fire. It's getting fuel, but no spark. I've changed the plugs and tried to crank with a plug removed (to see if there was spark), but nothing is visible. I suspected the ignition control module (which is a delight to get to by the way), but not sure if it's bad or not. I have continuity from the keyswitch to the plug just prior to the control module. I've tested the secondary of the module (per the kohler engine manaul) and it seems to be in the correct range (26kohms). Are there any other tests I can do on the system prior to buying a new module, which will be costly? Thanks.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

You can disconnect the kill wire that goes to the ignition module under the fan shroud on the engine. If you have spark then, its a problem with the tractor wiring. If you still don't have spark, then the module is probably shot. I'd start there before you mess around with the interlock module on the tractor. They do fail, and there is a kit to replace it with relays. You could completely bypass it and rewire the tractor so that the safeties work, but you will lose the delay from when you get off the seat to when the tractor shuts off. That is there so if you are bouncing around on rough ground, you don't keep trying to kill the engine.


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## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

Another thing to check is the condition of your wiring. Is it possible a rodent has chewed on some wires? I've seen that many times before. 

Thank goodness someone has come up with a delay switch. I had to pigtail the safety switch on the seat of my GT5000. The bouncing around on the seat was constantly cutting the engine!


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## allenbowman4 (Apr 26, 2014)

Thanks for the suggestions. I can't get to the kill wire at the ignition module due to the shroud (which can't be removed without pulling the engine). I disconnected the plug that is betweeen the relay and the kill wire, still no fire. I'm not sure if that would tell me anything since the 12V to the rectifier would also not be connected. The only thing I could do is cut the wire I guess and try again. Is there anything else in the wiring that would prevent ignition (safety switches)? I've checked for broken or grounded wires, but haven't found anything. I can try to replace the ignition module, but I have a suspicsion it's in the wiring. Any more thoughts? Thanks.


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## rdbrumfield (Apr 23, 2009)

I have an ariens that is 3yrs old with the 20hp engine. It wouldn't start and I checked for spark, pulled the plug and it had great spark. Put my finger over the hole and no compression. the exhaust valve seat in the head came loose and the valve cannot seat. Guess what, I cannot buy a head. An engine costs as much as I paid for the mower new. Will take the head to a machine shop and see what they can do. Garbage, I am really disappointed with Kohler.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

What are the numbers on the engine? You should be able to get a head for them. I can look it up for you if you can get me the model, spec, and date code. Should be on a label on the shroud on the engine. I work at a Kohler dealer and can get you price and availability on that part. Don't be too hard on Kohler about the heads. Briggs has far more issues with their heads. I've replaced over 10 of them in the last two years at work. Kohler has been pretty reliable for us, though every brand has problems. Nobody is perfect.


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## allenbowman4 (Apr 26, 2014)

I changed the ignition control module and put everything back together and it fired up! I ran it around the yard for 10 minutes with no problems. I put it back in the garage and went to start it again a few days later and the solenoid was clicking, no crank. I replaced the solenoid and the starter motor turned very slow (like it was bound up). I worked the starter a few times by turning the gear, and it cranked but did not start. Tried to crank again and same thing with the starter barely moving. I ordered a new starter and replaced it (removing the engine again) and the solenoid just makes a grinding sound. I'm guessing it's an electrical issue or short not allowing current to the starter. Any thoughts? The battery has 12V (verified w/ voltmeter). What should I look for?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

It sounds like a bad battery to me. Batteries can show 12v dc,and not have the amperage to turn the starter. 
Have the battery load tested.
Also,check all the ground points,and the battery cables.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

What John said. Also, it could be a bad starter solenoid. The contacts inside of them do get burnt over time and can be making a poor connection when activated. Ran into that a time or two. You can try jumping from the positive terminal of the battery to the big terminal on the starter (or the terminal on the solenoid that hooks to the battery if you can't get at it with the frame in the way). If it still turns slow, then the battery is probably bad or you have a bad ground.


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## rdbrumfield (Apr 23, 2009)

Country Boy said:


> What are the numbers on the engine? You should be able to get a head for them. I can look it up for you if you can get me the model, spec, and date code. Should be on a label on the shroud on the engine. I work at a Kohler dealer and can get you price and availability on that part. Don't be too hard on Kohler about the heads. Briggs has far more issues with their heads. I've replaced over 10 of them in the last two years at work. Kohler has been pretty reliable for us, though every brand has problems. Nobody is perfect.


ok, here we go,

model sv600s-0222, build date, 12/03/2008, serial, 383381936s help would be wonderful, my lawn is waiting.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Kohler p/n for the head,is 20-318-14-s ( $149.95ea.,+shipping/taxes) ,but they don't show a replacement valve seat.
However,if the seat is not cracked,you can put it back in the head,and,using a round ,flat-tipped punch (3/16" ),stake it every 1/8" around the seat. 
This is a common thing with Briggs engines,and I have done it,also on Tecumseh,and Kohler engines,with great success.

Oh,and for the record,...if a seat falls out,it either has a bent/burned valve,or something is making it run too hot.


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## rdbrumfield (Apr 23, 2009)

jhngardner367 said:


> Kohler p/n for the head,is 20-318-14-s ( $149.95ea.,+shipping/taxes) ,but they don't show a replacement valve seat.
> However,if the seat is not cracked,you can put it back in the head,and,using a round ,flat-tipped punch (3/16" ),stake it every 1/8" around the seat.
> This is a common thing with Briggs engines,and I have done it,also on Tecumseh,and Kohler engines,with great success.
> 
> Oh,and for the record,...if a seat falls out,it either has a bent/burned valve,or something is making it run too hot.


I would think the seat would come with the head assy. thanks. Will try your advice.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

The seat does come with it. I gave you the staking info to try and repair the old head,first.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

John beat me to it. If you don't mind spending the money, I'd probably just replace the head. The number superseded several times, and they may have redesigned the head due to issues. I know Briggs did after all the troubles they had with the valve guides loosening up and destroying the head. I've reset a few valve seats before, and it does work. The idea is that the punch causes the metal around the seat to expand, crushing the seat back in place. By making the dimples in the metal around the seat, the metal expands outward, thereby grabbing the seat tighter. It works, but you have to be sure the seat is exactly back in place, and you really should regrind the seat and lap the valve to be sure they are sealing properly. Again, $150 for a head may be a better bet in the long run. I don't redo the valve seats anymore because I had one that came loose again after a while and I ended up having to eat the labor on redoing it, so I just replace the heads now and eliminate the liability for the shop.


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## allenbowman4 (Apr 26, 2014)

New battery did the trick, thanks!


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