# Do I need more weight(s)?



## Kenny (Jun 11, 2004)

Just bought a new 5205 FWD and I will be bushhogging and clearing trails in the woods on my 88 acre farm. I have some limited experience (about 4 months) with Tractors however nothing this big. I previously owned a Ford 2000 and it did just fine as far as handling goes on my gently rolling hills. However this is a bigger machine and I was wandering about weights and what I might need to navigate these hills more safely. I am already having my dealer widen the wheels to 6 ft. Should I also get the tires loaded with CaCl? What other weights should I consider? Thanks guys


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

Calcium chloride tends to rot out the rims after a while (think years) and most lawn tractor guys opt for windshield washer fluid for it's less corrosive properties. Of couse with the little tires, we only talking abot 6-8 gallons per wheel so the cost is small. Ithink the 6 foot width was a great idea and I'd let it go at that untill you see how it works out. "Suitcase" weights are a good way to go as you can add or remove them easily from the front or back as needed if you decide to add weights later. No special tools needed and a lot lighter and easier to handle than the big iron wheel weights.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Kenny _
> *Just bought a new 5205 FWD and I will be bushhogging and clearing trails in the woods on my 88 acre farm. I have some limited experience (about 4 months) with Tractors however nothing this big. I previously owned a Ford 2000 and it did just fine as far as handling goes on my gently rolling hills. However this is a bigger machine and I was wandering about weights and what I might need to navigate these hills more safely. I am already having my dealer widen the wheels to 6 ft. Should I also get the tires loaded with CaCl? What other weights should I consider? Thanks guys *


Welcome to Tractor Forum Kenny! :friends: :cheers: Nice machine you have there! :thumbsup: Depending upon the weight and size of the rotary cutter you are using and any FEL if installed; you may or may not need weights. 

Obviously you will need to have sufficient down force on the front axles & wheels to allow for good traction especially when turning and most importantly going up slope to prelude the front end rising up on you. (this is a BIG safety concern) Pay close attention to this. 

Normally if you have a FEL installed, this is enough weight on the front to address this need with all but the most heavy of implements. If you don't have a FEL installed, you most likely will require the front suit case weight kit and enough weights to compensate for the added weight of the rotary cutter. 


<img src="http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/LVP3/LVP3252________UN08FEB02.gif">


The kit comes as part #'s

LVB25135 Kit $132

RFR51680 20 pack of weights $1440 (ouch!)

R51680 If you prefer to buy the weights individually $79.20


Items 4 thru 8 I am not certain come with the kit so I think best to ask your dealer to confirm this. 

With respect to filling the rear tires vs. wheel weights; this is a matter of personal preference and costs. 

The wheel weights are the most expensive route but have the advantage of not having to deal with the HUGE mess of cleaning up spilled tire fluid after a flat. Let me know if you want cost info. they are pretty expensive. 


<img src="http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/LVP5/LVP577_________UN21APR95.gif">


There are 3 types of tire filling materials you can use. 

NaCl, which is highly corrosive, the second heaviest tire filling material, second most expensive, and toxic to plant life. You don't want to spill a tires worth on the ground; it will be years before anything grows there again. 

Rim Guard (aka windshield wiper fluid). It is the least heaviest, least toxic, and least expensive. It may not meet your rear tire ballast requirements in heavier applications. (I have this fluid in my rear tires for FEL ballast weight)

Lastly, tire foam, which is the heaviest tire filling material, most expensive of the 3, and least toxic. This method also has the great advantage making the tire flat and puncture proof; but some don't like the alledged stiffer ride. 

I would suggest the rim guard fluid unless you are operating in an area which causes you frequent flat tires. If you still need more rear ballast weight; you can always add wheel weights. Hope this answered your questions.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

<h1>Welcome Kenny!</h1>

Quite a step up from a Ford 2000 (I am a Ford restorer and owner) What a nice tractor!  Post pics when you can! 
You used the 2000 to bushhog 88 acres? Do you have a large cutter or batwing? Welcome aboard!

Thanks!
-Andy


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

Excuse my poor manners Kenny, welcome to the forum! My mom did raise me better than that, but I'm sad to say a lot has worn off over the years. I look forward to some pics of your new tractor.


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## Kenny (Jun 11, 2004)

Thanks for all the great information. I will wait to see how she handles before I load her down with any weights. A FEL was not in the budget, however I did get the Dual SCV Mid stick so it can be purchased next year. It was either FWD or the FEL and I decided I can always add the FEL later whereas I cannot add the 4WD later. I'm only bushhogging about 20 acres on the farm, bottom land and trails. The rest will be hayed and some will eventually be seeded for wildlife attraction. The farm is half pasture and half woods. It is definitely a step up from the Ford 2000, I can't wait to get some seat time. The Tractor will come in some time next week and you can guess what I will be doing next weekend. Probably won't be able to post pictures to share because I'm not that smart yet.


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## Kenny (Jun 11, 2004)

*Decided to get FEL*

The tractor that the dealer found also has a FEL on it. At first I decided against the FEL, but over the weekend I changed my mind. He gave me a heck of a deal on the FEL so now my 5205 FWD will have a loader.


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*Re: Decided to get FEL*



> _Originally posted by Kenny _
> *The tractor that the dealer found also has a FEL on it. At first I decided against the FEL, but over the weekend I changed my mind. He gave me a heck of a deal on the FEL so now my 5205 FWD will have a loader. *


 You will be glad you made that move. I concider a tractor without a front end loader only half a machine.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I agree with Slip. I think you will be VERY glad you decided to go with the FEL.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Good choice there by going with the FEL --- Not only very useful for use, it does offer some really nice ballast weight to the tractor. Post some pics when you get a chance! 

Congrats!
Andy


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## Kenny (Jun 11, 2004)

*FEL added, now more Weight?*

Since I decided to add the FEL, now do I need to be concerned about weight (especially in rear)? Right now, I do not plan to get tires loaded with CaCl.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

With the loader in the front, rear weight is VERY beneficial. I still think suitcase weights are the way to go as they are easy on-easy off, and you can move them to the front to counterbalance a rear tiller or brush mower.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

*Re: FEL added, now more Weight?*



> _Originally posted by Kenny _
> *Since I decided to add the FEL, now do I need to be concerned about weight (especially in rear)? Right now, I do not plan to get tires loaded with CaCl. *


YES, You ABSOLUTELY DO need to either get the rear tires filled and/or add rear wheel weights. With the FEL installed, even empty there will be a considerable weight shift to the front axle and you will find this out going down hill with the FEL installed. The rear tires will just skid down the hill. Ask me how I know. My 4410 will do this if the grass is wet and I have the rear tires filled. This is a very serious safety concern so don't ignore the need for rear ballast with a FEL installed.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Ok, I am asking, How do you know, Chief? 



:furious:


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I took the "Super Man" ride to the bottom of a steep hill on the Kubota L245 that had the L1200 FEL on it last year. I have the "rust stains" in my draws to prove it.   The rear tires just started to slip and by the time I realized that it was the tires slipping and not the tractor's drive train; (I had the brakes applied) I had skidded to the bottom of the hill at a much faster speed than I would have liked. I have since learned to drop the FEL bucket if this happens. The FEL manual that comes with the FEL Kenny decideds to have installed on his tractor will specify the amount of rear ballast weight recommended. You don't need to add the entire amount specified but if you load the FEL to its limits you will.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

*Re: FEL added, now more Weight?*



> _Originally posted by Kenny _
> *Since I decided to add the FEL, now do I need to be concerned about weight (especially in rear)? Right now, I do not plan to get tires loaded with CaCl. *


Kenny, here is what Deere says is required for rear ballast on your tractor.

Rear Ballast Requirements-521 Loader, 5105 and 5205 Tractors


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Here is what Deere recommends for hitch ballast. 

Adding Ballast To Hitch-All Tractors Except 5000N Series


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

If you cannot or do not want to utilize hitch mounted ballast; you can substitute rear wheel weights. Just bare in mind that they are VERY expensive. This is something you WANT to negotiate into your tractor purchase price. This will allow you to finance this additional equipment AND it will give a bit more bargaining leverage since you are buying more product and services from the dealer. If he lets you take the tractor off his lot without some type of rear ballast and the FEL installed (unless you have personally requested and made this arrangbement); I will be VERY surprised. It would also indicate to me that this dealer either does not fully understand what he should be doing or does not care.


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## Kenny (Jun 11, 2004)

Just left the dealer, he said not to worry about it as long as I have my bushhog attached. Otherwise he recommended weights. He did not recommend the tires getting loaded w/ CaCl because of the corrosion factor.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *I took the "Super Man" ride to the bottom of a steep hill on the Kubota L245 that had the L1200 FEL on it last year. I have the "rust stains" in my draws to prove it.   *


That had to be one wild ride


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Kenny _
> *Just left the dealer, he said not to worry about it as long as I have my bushhog attached. Otherwise he recommended weights. He did not recommend the tires getting loaded w/ CaCl because of the corrosion factor. *


Kenny, I disagree with your dealer. With the rotary cutter on the 3 pt. hitch. For the most part, you should be OK, but on hills or rough terrain you may encounter traction problems along the lines that I described. I neglected to mention that I had an L590 rear finish mower installed on that L245 Kubota when I took the "magic carpet ride". The John Deere 521 FEL manual calls for 2,000 lbs. of ballast on the 3pt. hitch with no wheel weights or filled tires. I personally don't think you would need the full 2,000 lbs. except in the most demanding of situations but I would think at least 1,200 to 1,500 lbs. I realize the John Deere manual is going to be on the over kill side due to liability and worst case issues but just be sure of situation and how your machine will react. What size rotary cutter do you plan to use? If something along the lines of a 709 or similar model, then you may have enough ballast weight . Just be aware as to what the owners manual says. I have 55 gallons of Rim Guard fluid in each rear tire of my 4410 and I am still very under ballasted and have also slid down steep hills with this machine in wet conditons but I now keep the FEL bucket as close to the ground as possible and if I start to slip, I just drop the bucket. Eventually I will either get a set of wheels weights or make a 3 pt. ballast weight to get my rear ballast weight up to where it needs to be. I suspect that the 521 FEL weighs a good bit more than the rotary cutter. Anyhow, good luck and happy bush hogging with your new tractor! Don't mean to be taken as being a preachy pain in the ass.   Just wanted to be sure the dealer does not put you in an unsafe situation. Eventually I may look at moving up to a similar tractor. I have been looking at the 5420 and 5520 but for now they are on the wish list.


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## Kenny (Jun 11, 2004)

Thanks for all the advice Chief. I will definately take everything you said under consideration when operating my FEL, especially on the slopes. I'll let you know how things go. There sure are some good people here.


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## 720Deere (Sep 15, 2003)

Calcium Chloride is very old school and very detrimental to the health of your rims and anything else it comes in contact with. Regular automotive anti-freeze mixed with the right amount of water is the least expensive route for ballast. Iron weights are expensive, but I prefer them as they allow the ballast weight to easily be adjusted. You also don't have the bill for all that pumping and anti-freeze when you get a flat. Good luck with whatever you decide!


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## Dakota Farm (Aug 20, 2004)

I used to sell John Deere tractors for a living and I can tell you if you do use weights you won't need much for a Bushhog. That implement is lightweight for the most part and traction shouldn't be a problem. Any weight you would add would be to the front just to hold it down.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Welcome to Tractor Forum Dakota Farm! :friends: :cheers: Great to have you aboard and a former Deere dealer at that. I am sure your experience and knowledge in this area will be a great asset to the forum.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Kenny, we haven't heard from you in some time. What did you finally work out with weights?


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## Kenny (Jun 11, 2004)

Hey Chief...I have not posted lately, but I have been lurking in the shadows. I regularly check this site because you guys have tons of good info. As far as the weights go, I have not installed them nor have I loaded the tires with anything. I have found that the FEL along with the bush hog is sufficient enough weight to navigate the hills on my farm. I have had a full bucket of crushed rock and negotiated some fairly steep grades. I am always extra careful when carrying a load of anything. If I need to use the FEL, the bush hog stays attached. By the way, the tractor is running great, it is one helluva machine. Can't wait for the weather to get warmer...


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Great to hear back from you Kenny and that you are still happy with you tractor. I second your thoughts on the warmer weather!


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Maybe its time to look into a Curtis Cab for that tractor?


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Did you dealer tube the tires before they loaded them with CaCl Tom?


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## Kenny (Jun 11, 2004)

I have not loaded my tires due to the fact that our family just purchased this farm and there are alot of trails I have been and will be clearing for ATV fun. I have already had 4 punctured tires and now have a slow leak in one. So CaCl is not an option. Once the trails get cleared I will probably consider washer fluid, but with my track record for tire repairs, I think I'll wait. Curtis Cab?? I'll have to look into that.


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