# 9N No Electrical Spark- Hot coil



## johndrew (Feb 3, 2012)

I have a Ford 9N. It ran two days ago. I tried to start yesterday and it would not. I "jiggled" the wires at the distributor and it started. Today it does nothing.
1. The coil gets hot.
2. No Spark
3. It has been converted to 12 volt system with the distributor moved to the side.

Question how do I check the coil or what caused the coil to get hot?
Any suggestions on what to do next?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Check the points,and make sure they aren't grounded,in the distributor."jiggling" the wires,and getting spark,could mean the points are grounding,at times.You can check the coil with a volt/ohm meter.The power from the ign. switch should go to the coil +,and the coil - should go to the points/condensor. A simple test,is to turn the engine until the points are closed,then,pull the center wire from the distributor,and put it near a ground.Turn on the switch,and use a screwdriver to open the points.You should see a fat,blue spark.If you do,start checking the points/ditributor. If not,replace the coil.


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## Ken N Tx (Sep 20, 2003)

johndrew said:


> I have a Ford 9N. It ran two days ago. I tried to start yesterday and it would not. I "jiggled" the wires at the distributor and it started. Today it does nothing.
> 1. The coil gets hot.
> 2. No Spark
> 3. It has been converted to 12 volt system with the distributor moved to the side.
> ...


Check your inline resistor..


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Oh,yeah! I should have remembered that,too.Going from 6v,to 12 v,they install a ballast resistor in the line.MY BAD!


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## ChuckH (Apr 23, 2012)

johndrew said:


> I have a Ford 9N. It ran two days ago. I tried to start yesterday and it would not. I "jiggled" the wires at the distributor and it started. Today it does nothing.
> 1. The coil gets hot.
> 2. No Spark
> 3. It has been converted to 12 volt system with the distributor moved to the side.
> ...


I have a similar problem with my 2N, Ran great last fall now wont start - zero spark

I have replaced the points
Replaced the condenser - twice
Replaced the coil - new 12v
Replaced the resistor - new 12v
replaced the rotor and distributor cap
replaced the spark plugs
replaced all the wiring between the switch and coil
verified the coil is rotating
Using a meter verified continuity to ground when points closed an open circuit when the points were open
verified voltage at the coil 6-7v 
using a new spark plug verified no spark coming out of distributor
verified no shorts in distributor and points gap is good - several times
The distributor shaft seems tight - no side play and the rotor turns when the starter is engaged.

I can't think of anything else to check. This is a front mount distributor with a square can coil, therefore no HT lead to cap

I have been running this tractor with a 12v battery for several years by using a resistor to knock down the voltage to 6v prior to the original resistor. Tractor has been switched to negative ground (didn't spark positive either).

The ignition circuit is battery - switch - resistor - coil

I'm missing something so I hope someone an help.

Thanks


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