# light switch 4400 diesel



## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

I'm repairing the wiring on the 4400 which apparently over heated badly at some point in the past. There aren't any lights on the tractor anymore and i'd like to put them back on, head/ tail/work lights etc. This is a 5 position 6 terminal rotary switch with the first position being the off position, i'm guessing. I got power to the Inst. panel lights and to the Blue/red wire for the headlights on position 3 if I remember right. Could someone explain how this switch is supposed to works. Thanks for any help you can give.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Hello gemini1,

There are two type light switches for your tractor: 1) Rotary type and 2) pull type. The first position with both switches is for your instrument panel lights, and perhaps running lights. The second position is for headlights and work lights. I am not familiar with the other switch positions you refer to. British and European models probably have other requirements for road use.

The lights draw too much current to go thru the keyswitch (will burn the switch contacts). On the keyswitch, where the battery connects to it, there is a second terminal for the light switch. It will be a good idea to put a fuse in the light switch circuit in case of a short circuit. 

It's not "rocket science" but its been many years since I've touched the light switch. Once you get it rigged up, its pretty much trouble free.

Good luck.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

See a post on this forum entitled "Wiring Diagram for Ford 4000 diesel" written by Halky on 5/15/2015. It has illustrations that may be useful.

See also post on this forum entitled "Think I Screwed up please help" written by jjohnf on 2/15/2015. Illustrations will be useful.

There is a man named *Hacke* from Sweden that can help you with this wiring problem. He probably has the same lighting switch that you are referring to.


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## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

Thank you sixbales. I'll check out the information you gave me. I appreciate the help very much.


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## jimlund12 (Jul 30, 2015)

*RE Light switch*

One thing else I would recommend is when your going through the lights, put some dielectric grease on all the light terminals, plugs and sockets. This greatly reduces the amount of resistance at the terminals and sockets. Probably why the first switch smoked itself. Corrosion.


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## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

I think you're right sixbales, with the dielectric grease idea. I think it will help prevent some courosion. Thanks again.


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## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

Hello jimlund12, Sorry about that jim. And I will be using some dielectric on those terminals. Thank you


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Hi there everyone,

I have the four position switch, not familiar with the five position switch.

The Operator´s Handbook for the 1000-series (does not really cover 4400) gives:
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Straight up.......OFF
First right..........Side and tail lights
Second right....Side, tail and low beam headlights
Third right.........Side, tail and high beam headlights
*Fourth right......High beam headlights only

* This position is not obtainable on tractors sold in some countries.
---------------------

Wiring as in the "AB" diagrams in post "Think I Screwed up please help":
http://www.tractorforum.com/f203/think-i-screwed-up-please-help-29201/

There may be other lighting functions on a 4400 than on an agriculture tractor:
http://www.ntractorclub.com/forums/manuals/messages/5434.html

As far as I know, the industrials (4500) had a separate switch for work lights, placed on a fusebox.


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## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

Thank you Hacke for your reply. I also found this information just today in an operators manual for the 3400,3500,4400 and 4500 tractors. I guess I confused the issue when I referred to the switch as a 5 position switch. I counted the straight up off as the first position. Thanks again for the information.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

No confusion, you were right, OFF is first position.
The Operators Handbook is confusing, if anything. By "First right" they mean "The first position to the right of position OFF".


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## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

Yes, the manuals can be a little vague sometimes. sixbales mentioned putting a fuse in the light switch circuit in a previous post. Any idea what amp. fuse should be used. I have no idea what amperage the switch would draw with all the lights and accessories on.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

First you need to find out the size of current (Amperage). The easy way is to check the power in Watt (W) for bulbs and other equipment in a circuit. Add the values and you have the total amount of power. Divide that sum by 12 (12 Volt is the voltage) and you get the total amperage (in Ampere, A). Multiply the total amperage by 1.35, and choose a standard fuse value next step over the value you have got.

One fuse for the entire circuit of lights and accessories are good to protect the entire circuit and switches. You may also consider to put fuses for the different loads. If you only have the one "main" fuse and happen to smash a work light wich causes a short circuit to ground in the armature, the main fuse blows and nothing else in the main circuit works. If you instead had put one fuse for work lights, one for side lights, one for tail lights and so on, you would still have everything functioning besides the work lights.

With only one main fuse it is harder to find out what is wrong when it blows.

Myself I want relays to operate most equipment, so you do not get heavy currents through the switches.

Too many tractors have been destroyed by fire caused by neglecting the importance of fuses.

A battery cut off switch is a good way to minimize the risk of something ugly going on when you leave the tractor alone. Mice, for instance, can make a mess of the wiring causing short circuits to ground and a fire hazard.


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## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

Thanks again for your reply. I will look at placing a few more fuses in the system. How does a battery cut off switch work. where in the system is it placed. So far I have traced, spliced, soldered and applied heat shrink to about a dozen wires. I now have dash light, gen. charging light, oil pressure light. The Thermostart heater plug now operates off of the key switch, and the tractor safety switch now works. Have to add some wire for the headlights and tail lights which were cut off at some point. Install headlights, tail lights, and work light. Once the tractor is up and running I think a new wiring harness will be in order, after the radiator and power assisted steering repairs. And so it goes. I must say that the help I received form the folks on this forum has been great. The work would be much harder without the elect. and steering diagrams and all the input form the people who replied. Thanks to all, your help is much appreciated


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

There are different types of switches but they do the same thing, cutting off the battery from the rest of the wiring.
Manually or electrically operated do the same work. I have no experience of the latter, so the rest is about manually operated switches. 

One type is mounted directly on the battery pole, which is not that convenient on a Ford from the 1000-series. There is not much room in there and you need to open the hood to close or open the switch.
Better with a switch mounted on the side of tractor, and as close to the battery as possible. Experts claim that the switch is best placed on the ground lead. They are, of course, right and the placing is perfect on a Ford 1000-series tractor. You put it on the ground (-) lead going from battery to a ground connection (for instance one of the bolts holding the starter). Place it where it is convenient to operate.

Some switches have a detachable key. That is a nice feature if kids get their hands on the tractor, and it makes the tractor a bit more difficult to steal.
Here is a link to a presentation of some types, the plastic type is a bit undersized (The work can be done by operator with shorter finger nails):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH648xEAAf8

This is a nice type, I have not found any Canadian site that have it:
http://amelec.com.au/products/cormar/battery-master-switch-single-pole-250a/

Some description:
www.mgexp.com/article/mgb/battery-disconnect-switches.pdf

Some other vendors:
https://www.flamingriver.com/batterydisconnect
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-battery-cutoff-switch-66789.html


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## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

*light switch 4400 dieseI*

Thanks Hacke, I'll check some switches out. The lady in the video has very nice nails, but I don't think they would work well doing tractor maintenance. Thanks


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## Wonbill (Feb 15, 2009)

You might find battery isolator switches in Canadian Tire fishing boat/trolling motor accessories.
Wonbill


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## Gemini1 (Jul 28, 2011)

Thank you Wonbill, I'll check it out


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