# lawn tractor work table...



## hackware (Sep 14, 2011)

after all my crazy years, my bones are letting me know they ain;t forgot...

spent a couple of dayz trying to repair the mower deck on a troybilt Super Bronco Lawn Tractor (Mod: 13AJ609G766) after finding a pipe hidden in the pasture...

anywayz, my plan is to build a table beefy enuff to work on the tractor with it off the ground, where i can reach things without passing out from pinched nerves...

i figger i can draw up plans strong enuff to safely do the job, but would use anybody's prior work soas to not re-invent the wheel...

planning on mainly using 4x4's, 2x6's, and 3/4" plywood with 2x10's for ramps...

william...


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## tim1972 (Jun 19, 2012)

I have seen pro setup for atv and lawn tractor for about $2500. I have never used them but I know people that have and love them.


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## hackware (Sep 14, 2011)

tim1972 said:


> I have seen pro setup for atv and lawn tractor for about $2500. I have never used them but I know people that have and love them.


sure...

$2500, could do a lot with that...

like buy a used REAL tractor...

but my idea is more along the range of $50-$100...

ramps instead of a jack, just like i've been using off my ford pickup tailgate...

tho it's a bummer when i need the truck to go get a part, when the tractor is hanging off the rear...

instead, a strong table with the tractor and deck flat, and at a level to make it more of a comfort than a pain...

william...


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## remote (Jul 8, 2012)

That seems like a really good idea - hope it works out well for you. 
Reading your post reminded me of the time I saw a couple of old fellas working on a lawn tractor in a front yard just down the street from me. They had somehow tilted the tractor - a John Deere- back on its rear wheels so that the front end was up in the air (I assumed it didn't get into that position by accident). I don't know how they got the heavy front end up so high, but they had it supported so it wouldn't fall down. The tractor seemed to be at almost a 60 degree angle. Made for easy access to the underside ;-) 
I wished I could have stopped and had a better look and a chat about what they were doing. :-(


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## hackware (Sep 14, 2011)

i've done that stand up trick my own self...

just gotta watch out for gas and oil following gravity's directions...

and any more, i move slow...

william...


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## remote (Jul 8, 2012)

Is there a trick to standing up a lawn tractor? Is it fairly easy? I've got a JD 212 and a Sears LTX1000. It would sure be easier to clean under the decks if I could stand the tractors up; easier than taking the deck out from under the tractor.
PS sorry for getting off topic ;-(


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

I've stood them up by accident, but it would require a lot more practice and a few broken bones to do it on purpose.

The work table sounds like a good idea, though I'd want to stiffen or at least brace your 2 x 10 ramps. You would need probably 16 footers in order to make the transition between the ramp and the level surface. Side boards to keep you lined up would be safer as well. Don't forget to anchor the ramps on both ends. I don't want to read your obituary any time soon.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Ditto with ErnieS, you could stiffen your ramps by screwing a 2 x 6 on edge to the underside of your ramps. That would give you a wider surface to brace your ramps along the floor to the far end( front) of your work table. I'd get a few of those "hurricane Ties" that builders use to stengthen the connection of a roof truss to a building.. they are like 1-1/2" by say 18" galvanized straps with predrilled holes for fastening. Most home building stores have them. Use these to tie your corners and such together... just a little extra security. Perhaps leave the center part open so you have access to the deck from underneath. Brace an cross brace! If you come across a piece of expanded metal, you could put a 6" wide strip up both ramps so you never slip off. Just put it on the right way.


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## 46mech (Jun 26, 2008)

William, I like your thinkin. I'm gonna do the same some day, but it's not real high on my "to do" yet. I know I'm going to want to be able to remove the center portion of the top so as to have full access to the under side of the mower deck or whatever.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

A while back i picked up a couple free wooden bins ( that held rocks ) from a local landscape place - i put an old door on them and used my truck ramps to get the tractors up on top - it worked great for a while was a nice workbench at waist level , till termites infested the bins .

A way to lift the tractor somewhat easier - ratchet straps ( heavy duty ones) or come along from a sturdy overhead beam - harbor freight has 12volt electric winches - depends how heavy the tractor is.

I still work on mine either under the car port or in the shed .


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## hackware (Sep 14, 2011)

ErnieS said:


> I've stood them up by accident, but it would require a lot more practice and a few broken bones to do it on purpose.
> 
> The work table sounds like a good idea, though I'd want to stiffen or at least brace your 2 x 10 ramps. You would need probably 16 footers in order to make the transition between the ramp and the level surface. Side boards to keep you lined up would be safer as well. Don't forget to anchor the ramps on both ends. I don't want to read your obituary any time soon.



good idea...

most likely would of thought of it, but now will make sure...

using the planks off pickup tailgate worked ok by themselves,
but my table will be higher, and will be placing full weight of tractor along
plank length (was leaving rear wheels near ground)...

btw: ended up using flattened fence posts, using old "sleigh-box" frame design,
with 2" wide sheet metal strips to hold things together...

as metal framing brace pieces cost over $8 a piece, would of paid over $100 just for the
braces, so cut from old roofing metal left over from stable project...

will post some pix when finished...

william...


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## RetiredLE (Aug 8, 2012)

It appears a riding mower is in our eventual future and I was wondering how to keep the mower deck clean. Found this on a google search. Not sure if it would be hard on the wheel bearings or not.... I think something along these lines could be built using scrap steel - although my version would be just a bit beefier.... As was already mentioned, fuel and/or oil leakage might be an issue.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Id be more worried about the oil and gas spilling out with that leaning setup - both would need to be drained first.

Most new mowers have a hose bib attachment to wash the deck after use - if its a heavy duty deck i wouldnt worry , but cheeper models might tend to rust out easier.

Owning several different model tractors , i find my dynamarks are the easiest to remove ( one pin, unhook the belt and remove it) - my GTII is also pretty easy - pull 4 spring pins, take the belt off, start the tractor and back the tractor up and over the deck .

At least once a year the blades will need to be sharpened - just plain easier to pull the deck actually....


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## rubberfish (Aug 8, 2012)

I guess I'm the only one that just drives it up on the picnic table. 

You guys can keep working on the floor if ya want. :lmao:


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Thats one heck well built picnic table Rubberfish.


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## rubberfish (Aug 8, 2012)

Thomas said:


> Thats one heck well built picnic table Rubberfish.


That, or you guys have flimsy tables.
A little deere or snapper weighs in around what, 500lbs or so?
Two planks and up ya go. Even comes with somewhere to sit
while ya putter around on the thing.


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## pacerman (Jul 25, 2012)

I use an old hospital bed with a ply deck fitted to it. All the hydraulic gear is still underneath, so I drive our mower up onto it and then use the foot pump mounted at one end and pump the bed up. It's had motor bikes on it as well! At the moment it has the cab off a 1929 Chev sitting on it so I hope the mower doesn't pack a sad about it!!!!


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## thirdroc17 (Sep 24, 2012)

Over the years I've built I several. Compressed and bulging disks do that to ya.

3/4" plywood and 2x4's should be plenty strong enough. I hope so, that's what I currently have.

While I'm probably too late chiming in, a couple of them I built I used 2 by planks on the top. If you only have one tractor, build it to the width of the tractor, screw only the two outside planks down, leaving the center ones removable. Sometimes that comes in real handy accessing the bottom center areas of the tractor.

I went to plywood for cost reasons, and the fact I'm running more and more stuff up on it rather than bending over. The center has to stay put now.

I just use my trailer ramps to get stuff on it. Cost measures again.

On one of them I built, which was purpose built to a particular mower, I put stake pockets on the ends at the tires. Drop a length of 2x4 in them, and the mower couldn't roll off no matter how hard it tried.


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## randym99 (Jan 26, 2010)

Eh Hackware. What does your tractor weigh? I have seen some neat winch or jack powered motorbike/snowmobile lifts that use a base frame,a top and are connected by 4 arms.Check you-tube or goggle "snowmobile lift" and see what comes up.Ya might see something you could adapt for your needs.Hope this helps.


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