# switched to Mobil 1



## guest (Sep 16, 2003)

For my 50 hour checkup, i switched to mobil 1 synthetic oil...


has anyone whose switched noticed any differences? 


My Kohler (great motor im not complaining) sometimes smokes at startup.. White smoke... not always but more than once in a while.. also its really cold blooded.. it needs to warm for at least a few minutes during cold weather or it will stall out.. again not complaining against my kohler.. i think they make a grewatr motor..

*I was wondering if anyone using synthetic over dino oil has noticed any difference.. * 


PS. im not trying to start a dino vs synthetic debate... I figure at changing my oil 2 times per year.. the extra few bucks wont hurt and it will make me feel good about doing something nice for my ride..


sj


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by simple_john _
> *For my 50 hour checkup, i switched to mobil 1 synthetic oil...
> 
> 
> ...


I plan on following this thread real close. I've read all the pros and cons on dino vs. synthetics and still haven't made up my mind.

My Kohler smokes on startup too, I'm convinced it's the way the engine is set in the tractor that causes it. The cylinders are pretty much laying horizontal. Don't know whether synthetic will help with that, but stranger things have happened.

Keep us appraised of what you notice is different after the switch.


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

As soon as mine gets to 50hrs im going to switch to mobil 1 but i have only 40hrs. So next year i will switch cant hurt it gets hot down here in the summer.edro: 
Jody


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## guest (Sep 16, 2003)

ive had 2 kohler twins; a 16 HP on my toro and the 20 on my prestige... the toro i ran regular oil... but both smoked from time to time... nothing wrong with the kohler motors in my opinion 
never had a real problem with either of them.. 


sj


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

This is my second experience with Kohlers. Had a 23 HP one in my GT3000 and it smoked on startup too.

My 2 Cases had Onan engines. 16 and 18 HP twins, beat the hell out of them, but always kept the maintenance up. They never failed me.

Jody,
What engine do you have in your Cub?


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*Mobile One*

I use mobile one in my 1988 Chevy 1500 4x4. I did a frame up restoration on it in 2000,including a new factory crate motor.Mobile One has been in it since then,with 48,000 miles.The truck has been trouble free and the engine is just now reaching it's full breakin.I bought this truck new November 9,1987,it is now old enough to get a Jr. Operaters permit,in New York State.Total on the truck are over 275,000 miles.I don't like to get rid of things once I own them.


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Argee _
> *
> 
> Jody,
> What engine do you have in your Cub? *


I have the Kawasaki FH430V 15HP V- Twin which is a great running motor:thumbsup:


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

I did switch to a synthetic blend on my machine last oil change and it seems to be running a little quieter (no kohler knock anymore). Either that or my hearing is getting worse.

I also did notice that the oil seems to stay clean longer.


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## Fish (Nov 15, 2003)

I have been fighting the synthetic war lately just to
be troublesome, but still contend that synthetic oil use
is irrelevant to engine life on lawn mowers.
Fish


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Fish _
> 
> *I have been fighting the synthetic war lately just to
> be troublesome, but still contend that synthetic oil use
> ...


How so?


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## Greg (Sep 16, 2003)

SJ,

I started using Mobile 1 (5W-30) in my CV15 Kohler engine powered L1000 after about 150 hours. The valve lifter rods were starting to "click" loudly. After I changed to Mobile 1, the clicking basically went away. I still have a puff of white smoke at startup, but not as much as before. 

I use Mobile 1 in all my other B&S powered equipment as well. My Kohler deserves the best care possible and to me it's worth the extra cost.

Greg


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

I believe in earnest that some engines benefit greatly from running synthetic vs. straight dino. Others may benefit to a lesser degree. I feel as though if your oil changes are on-time using quality oils and filters, the wear will be minimal on the engine for the long run. I may swap over to Mobil 1 for the Kohler on my GT5000 and it is not nearly as expensive as swapping over a large engine running 6-7 quarts ---- 



Andy


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## Fish (Nov 15, 2003)

*syn.*

Ok, if you desire.
What benefit would one obtain by switching to a
synthetic oil in a regular pushmower? Do not use
silly accounts that "it runs smoother". as an answer.
If one started with a simple Wal-Mart pushmower, 
and changed the oil regularly, using regular oil,
or synthetic, the mower would last the same amount
of time.
So whatever you all preach about synthetic oil,
convince me. Are you suggesting a longer change interval?
If so why? What does synthetic do with dirt?
Let us start here....
Fish


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

*Re: syn.*



> _Originally posted by Fish _
> * So whatever you all preach about synthetic oil,
> convince me. Are you suggesting a longer change interval?
> If so why? What does synthetic do with dirt?
> ...


I THINK I am on the same page as you Fish. I DO belive that synthetic oils are better. And in some cases will extend the life of a motor. 

I THINK you are saying that the life of a L&G motor, under normal use, with normal maintance, last longer then what it is attached to. Is that about it? It seems like most L&G motors seem to die from abuse, LONG before they die a old age death.

BTW I do use synthetic in a few of my cars. I also use it in my snowblowers, but that is just for the cold temps that synthetic's flow at.


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## Adamr88 (Sep 16, 2003)

I have a 17hp kawasaki (sp?) and currently I have 40hrs on it. When you you guys suggest switching to another type of oil and what kind?

Adam


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Adamr88 _
> *I have a 17hp kawasaki (sp?) and currently I have 40hrs on it. When you you guys suggest switching to another type of oil and what kind?
> 
> Adam *


I have a 15hp Kawasaki also with 40hrs im going to switch at 50hrs.
Jody


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

I have the 20 hp V twin Kawasaki. So far I changed oil at 7 hours just for the heck of it, and now plan on changing it again at the 25 hour mark, which is tomorrow more than likely. I had planed on using synthetic Mobil 1 when it hit the suggested oil change of 50 hours as according to my manual it said it can take up to 50 hours for the engine to be fully broke in. I started to think that I have used dino type for as long as I can remember, and had at one time started off my 180 JD with 17 hp single Kaw engine with synthetic Opti 4 oil but at the regular suggested oilchange intervals it was getting pretty expensive with the amounmt of hours I would rack up so quick, so I went back to dino. I can change my oil 2 1/2 times with dino for what it would cost me synthetic........so the way I look at it is I get fresher oil more often for a lesser price, as the synthetic does not actually extend drain intervals.

I am just about 95% sure dino is what is going to be put in it for ever unless somewhere someone can show me why I need or what synthetic can do to make my engine happier. Been using only Valvoline since I used my first drop of oil in anything, except for a short time with Opti 4 by Optimol.


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## memmurphy (Sep 18, 2003)

I don't argue that syn oil will reduce wear, but the parts that it is extending the life of are not (in my opinion) common failure parts. Bad gas, ignition/electrical, carburators, metal fatigue of the frame, deck, pulleys, wheelbearings, linkage and hard objects jumping into the blades will get you first. The only main bearing failures I've seen were caused by a bent crank chewing them up from hitting something. I've never seen a connecting rod failure other than by over reving or running with little or no oil or mowing a hill too steep to walk on. As far as rings and valves, the worst wear from cylinder scoring or burning is in the combustion chamber from either bad gas, poor air filtering, or incorrect air/fuel mixture. If your lucky and avoid all of the common failure causes, years from now when it looses compression and starts continuosly fogging for mosquitoes, you could pay for a new or rebuilt engine from the savings by using the low tech stuff. Or you could use the savings now to repair the common problems. Most people, those of us in this forum being the biggest exception, don't keep anything that long anymore.
To each his own, just my 2 cents.

Mark


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## Old_Nodaker (Nov 1, 2003)

So putting aside the wear question, would synthetics be beneficial for:

a) easier starting in the winter?

b) better tolerance of a temporary no oil condition, such as being on too steep a side hill with a splash lubed engine?


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Old_Nodaker _
> *So putting aside the wear question, would synthetics be beneficial for:
> 
> a) easier starting in the winter?
> ...


Good questions Old Nodaker, I'd like to enhance your "easier starting in winter" by adding, *Do you get quicker lubrication with synthetic oil when starting a cold engine?*


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## Fish (Nov 15, 2003)

*really*

I do not live up in the great white north, but how many 
engine lockups/failures can be attributed to oil
viscosity? I an guessing none.
Viscosity issues usually arise when 10w40 breaks down.
The value of using syntheitic oil is silly unless you are
claiming a longer oil change interval, as dirt is the culprit.
Fish


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## Old_Nodaker (Nov 1, 2003)

No, I've never had a lockup/failure, but I've had engines that wouldn't turn over fast enough to start, and I've had them knock and clatter momentarily when they do start. So are you saying that 10 weight is 10 weight, whether it be dino or synthetic? Pardon me for my ignorance, I've heard claims for synthetics that 1) They flow better, 2) They withstand higher temperatures. I guess what I'm asking, is there any validity to these claims?


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## memmurphy (Sep 18, 2003)

Good question, what use are the weight numbers if what's in the bottle reacts differently depending on what brand or type you buy? There were several posts in an automotive forum about using syn. oil in engines with over 100,000 miles. Some thought they noticed an increase in seal and gasket leaks as well as increased oil consumption. So one might assume that it does remain more fluid at lower temperatures. Or you could assume it gets thinner at high temperature. Another theory was it cleaned the sludge out of the engine which was formally keeping it from leaking. With a mechanical oil pump, there still will be a moment in time while the rpm comes up that there will be little oil pressure even with the engine warm.
Sounds like a good experiment for you Northerners to undertake to see if it does help in cold temps. It only gets cold enough here for 3 or 4 days a year to have those troubles.
Mark


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## SuperFreak (Sep 18, 2003)

many people will never pay $5 a quart for oil. If clatter and things like that are an issue the proper thing to do is switch viscosity.Just like a socket one size does not fit all, you need the right size tool to make it turn a bolt.


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

Synthetics are essentially man made compunds vs natural compounds. Anytime you get something from a natural compound, regardless of refining etc, you will have wider variations vs man made compounds.

Years ago, my industry made a switch from natural abrasives (garnet, emery, crocus) to man made abrasives (aluminum oxide, silicon carbide, zirconium and ceramic A/O). The difference is similar to the dino synthetic argument. Virtually no one (except woodworkers) uses those abrasives anymore as the newer man made compounds last up to 7 times as long in similar applications.

I am sure that material like Slick 50 (teflon based) do not work at all regardless of what anyone says. I worked at Honeywell Automotive (Fram/Autolite/Bendix/Prestone) for several years and the FTC came down hard on those guys that make Slick 50 for misleading claims. The stuff is still out there, but the claims are no longer so outragous. They scaled them back cause the FTC stated that they couldn't substantiate a benefit. Teflon works on materials that are over 500 degrees F or higher. Last time I checked, almost very few vehicle reach that temp unless they are a carbecue.


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