# Done her up AGAIN!



## twentynine (May 1, 2006)

Well if you guys read about my 3-point hitch repair a couple weeks ago, you know I have been having ups and downs with my tractor.

Today I broke the 3-point hitch again.

Not the same thing, the next weakest link I guess.

I bent the bottom right hand side lift arm. That's right bent that joker. Are you guys beginning to think I might need a BIGGER tractor? I am!

The large pecan tree I cut down back in March has been piled up waiting the right conditions to burn. Today the conditions were right. Light wind, rain last week. So I set her a blaze. I let it burn a while and then began pushing the pile together with my tractor and grader box. As you guys know them things are allot stronger going frontwards than they are going backwards. Once again I otice the box hanging kinda catawhompus but not falling off. About the same time I notice a link pin on the ground. So I says to myself "self" I bet that is way it is hanging crooked. 

Well the pin was out but that wasn't the problem. The right hand lift arm had bent and popped the pin off.

Couple weeks ago I changed the hitch pins on my box where they would be turned in rather than out. I think this allowed to much strain on my lift arms.

Fixing to order replacements from Hoye. I'll let you guys know how it goes.


----------



## twentynine (May 1, 2006)

Okay!

As stated earlier, I ordered a set of replacement lift arms from Hoye. Like most folks I failed to read the description fully. My lift arms on the tractor are 27.5" and the lift arms I ordered are 23.5". the people at Hoye were very helpfull fixing my screw-up.

I did not realise that my tractor did not have the OEM lift arms, they ahd been swapped to the longer 27.5" arms.

In the mean time I removed the bent lift arm, heated it with a O2-C2H2 rosebud and massaged it back into shape with a 6# maul. Currently I am using it on the tractor dragging my bush hog. I figure as long as I don't put the box back on and try pushing with it, I'll be fine.


----------



## chrpmaster (May 5, 2004)

Sorry to hear about your 3pt problems. 

One question I had was since your tractor originally came with the shorter arms wouldn't they be less likely to bend? Normally if you can keep the attachment closer to the tractor you are at less risk of damaging the arms. Maybe you could change over to the longer (weaker) arms, which you already have, when you need the length and switch to the new shorter arms for the tough stuff like the grader box. I don't know how hard yours are to change but mine are easy so changing wouldn't be a problem.

Just wondered

Andy


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

29, 

Sorry to hear about your problems and glad you’ve got it under control.

I have now broken 3 lower lift arms (28”) in 4 years…and always going backwards with my box blade attached. I also have a welded 2” ball on the rear of my box blade that only increases the shear and leverage vulnerability to the longer arms.

I have since switched to the 24” and my tractor and implements are much happier about that. Still ever careful in reverse with my rear blade…but even in 4WD and plowing/leveling hard with a full box - it’s been a much better ’Feel Factor’ with the correct lift arms.

Andy, 

I agree. Even if it’s only approximately 4” difference that’s (apparently) enough to max out and pass the design specifications versus weight.


----------



## twentynine (May 1, 2006)

Yes!

I understand SOME of the stress factors.

One big question!!!!!!!

How do you hook up normal size implements with the shorter arms? The 23.5" arms will hook my implements up inside the circumference of the tires. Backing up to my grader box, the end of the pins are wider than the distance between the tires. So the arms cannot spread far enough to hook up.

Second big question!!!!!!

Should I keep the shorter lift arms any how? Maybe after you guys give me a clue as to what to do with the dang things. I'll be the first to admit I am not the sharpest tool in the shed. But heck I can't figure this out.

Third big question!!!!!

If I keep the shorter lift arms won't I have to get a shorter top link? And shorter side arms?

Mark 

Yep! I have a 2" ball welded on my box too.


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

Keeping the shorter lift arms is just a matter of personal preference. Should you decide to keep them then your implements will adjust to fit.

There should be (is) two Cat #1 pins sticking out the sides of your box blade. Just undo the big nuts and reverse the pins inward. The shorter arms will spread sufficiently outward and catch them easily. If you have a shredder (bush hog) you can do the exact same thing. You might have to shorten the PTO drive line to the shredder, but only if it doesn’t slide in far enough or if you are using an ORC (over-run coupler).

You may have to shorten the sway links (or chains) to close the new distance and keep the tire lugs from hitting the replaced, shorter lift arms…not difficult at all.

Not necessary to replace the vertical links from the rock shaft arms to your lower lift arms.

You might have to replace the longer top link. I didn’t, but I did remove 3” from the center of the large style top links and re-welded them on two different sets for two tractors with the stronger, shorter lower lift arms. 

It could be my imagination but this simple one hour conversion left me feeling that the little difference in overall length made a vast improvement in clearance around trees, making tight turns or pulling trailers…and the whole thing just seemed a much better improvement IMHO….

Mark


----------



## twentynine (May 1, 2006)

Thanks for the reply Mark.

Shucks I don't know what to do.

I have been running the 27" arms for ten years, and I have always noticed the tractor being very load sensitive. You know front wheels bouncing or coming completely off the ground. Maybe for the $50 the shorter arms cost me instead of returning for credit I could give them a try. 

But I tell you one thing. I am going to think about it today, cause I am going fishing.

Thanks once again.


----------



## chrpmaster (May 5, 2004)

I agree with Mark about the shorter arms helping with tighter turns etc. It might surprise you how much difference 4" shorter arms would make with the front end coming off the ground too.

If it were me I would probably keep the shorter ones. Since you already have a set of longer ones that you have "fixed" if you really need the length you can use them. For most things the shorter will work better and probably be safer since you will have better steering control and shorter length of the tractor plus attachment.

Let us know what you end up deciding

Andy


----------



## twentynine (May 1, 2006)

Here is what I done.

I have installed the short 23.5" lift arms. Alomng with the new sway chains. The top link I had was way to long to hook up, so I ended up cutting 5" out of the center and welding it back together.

I don't know how this is going to work, but I am going to try to post pictures of the process. 

<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=000_1746-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/000_1746-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

This picture shows the opld lift arms and the new long 27" arms. The shorter 23.5" arms are already on the tractor.

<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=000_1749.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/000_1749.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>]

Picture 2 show the 23.5" arms on the tractor. Note that I had to swap the holes for the sway chains and side links. With the longer arms the sway chains mount in the second hole and the side links the first. With the shorter arms I had to swap positions.

<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=000_1753.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/000_1753.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Third picture shows the length of the top link and it has already been measured and marked for cutting.

<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=000_1754.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/000_1754.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Cut and prepared for welding.

[<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=000_1757.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/000_1757.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Welded and ready for assembly and installation.

<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=000_1758.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/000_1758.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Installed


Some things I noticed with the shorter arms. One the lift picks the implement up much higher. I think this has to do with the position the side link are mounted on the lift arms. Secondly the lift will not raise the box if the box is under load. Such as pushing back a tree stump and you attempt to role it while pushing. Maybe an adjustment thing so I will have to do some figuring.


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

Nice clean install.

I especially like the way you shortened your top link and jig'ed it up for welding. I used a piece of all thread, two big washers and nuts LOL...

Hmmmm...Wonder if it's a geometry thing about lifting the box under load? 

I do remember a problem with the distance on the top link to my bush hog. I turned around the big "A" frame where the top link mounts (and lower lift arms) which brought the whole implement much closer to the rear wheels of my tractor - that worked excellent.


----------



## twentynine (May 1, 2006)

Thanks Mark

The picture I am posting shows just how much I cut from the center of the link. I made the cuts with a Metabo cutting wheel, squared everything up and tacked the halves together with a 3/32 - 6011 rod. Once I was sure it was aligned correctly, I welded it out with a 3/32 - 6013 rod. The mild steel rods should give plenty of strength as I got a full thickness weld. Sure wish I could weld prettier. However I am self taught, so I settle for gorilla welding most of the time. I have a small mig welding outfit that uses flux core wire, welds real pretty, but not as strong as using a rod. 

[<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=000_1755.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/000_1755.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

The lift deal may be hydraulic related. I noticed that my lift is starting to leak down, unless I keep the tractor running at a fast idle. The PTO seal leaks a little while I bush hog so I checked the fluid level, right on the money. Fluid is only maybe 2 months old. So I guess the next step is to try the screen in the suction.

By the way this is one of the things my nephew and I caught while fishing last Thursday, you being from SE Texas probably have seen your share of them.

<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=unhappygator.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/unhappygator.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/?action=view&current=chokehold-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj54/1929-twentynine/chokehold-1.jpg" border="0" alt="got'em"></a>


----------



## chrpmaster (May 5, 2004)

Nice home grown fix. I like the upper link too. It sounds like your leak down problem has something to do with the seals allowing fluid to pass by them. I am not sure where they are on your tractor but Mark probably will.

Andy


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

> _Originally posted by chrpmaster _
> *.... It sounds like your leak down problem has something to do with the seals allowing fluid to pass by them........
> 
> Andy *


I think you're right Andy...

29,

Here's a diagram that show's the area and probably where the problem is. It's not complicated at all and easily dissasembled once you've popped off the rock shaft assembly from your tractor. Only a few things that can go wrong...and it's often dirt, or "O" rings failure.


----------



## twentynine (May 1, 2006)

Thanks Mark and Andy

I guess when I get the time I will tear into the hydraulics on my tractor. Hopefully I can source the O-Rings locally. It will be a few days, but I'll get it done.


----------

