# murray drive belt....



## kevsmif80 (Apr 19, 2010)

The plastic pulley on my dads murray riding lawnmower on the drive belt had word down and cracked causing the drive belt to fall off. I replaced the plastic pulley but the very next time my father mowed the pulley melted and broke. I wasnt sure if i put it on wrong or if the actual drive belt was so worn that it was causing this to happen. I decided to change the belt and pulley. While attempting to take the belt off the rear trans pulley i took out some bolts i may not needed to. This caused the large spring which goes to the clutch brake to move. In order for me to get those screws back into place i had to loosen the bolt on this spring that is connected with the clutch/brake. once i had everything back in place and the screw back tightened on the clutch/brake spring i have a whole new problem.

For some reason now the clutch/brake is no longer a brake it acts as a gas pedal. When the lawnmower is started and put into gear it does not move unless i press the clutch/brake as if its a gas pedal and hold it down. Does anyone have any idea what i have done wrong? I would like any advice that could help and please ask any questions because I know I butchered the parts names I just am not a mechanic and just know very little. Thanks


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

*Murray detail*

You need to list the model of Murray you are working on, and the year of construction if you can find it. On my Murray rider the rear of construction is on a sticker on the back. Different Murrays work differently. If you own a 98 model 42" rider I could give you some advice.


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## Taelwind (May 7, 2010)

Picture attached of correctly installed brake actuator. It is for information purposes, yours may look different, but the goal is the similiar to the look of this one.

More than likely you installed the actuator inside-side out. There is a chance that you installed it backwards. Once you properly orientate the brake actuator as indicated below, the rest of the puzzle should fall into place. 

The bracket is bent on purpose, the portion of the bend that sticks out is the portion that needs to be mounted facing the tire. The angular inside bent part needs to be installed toward the brake pins. The angular inside bent part - notch - valley - whatever you want to call it, is situated so that when the pedal is NOT depressed the valley is in alignment with the two brake pins.

however, when you step on the brake, the arm moves forward and the pins make contact with the sides the valley and squeeze the brake pad against the disc brake.

A return spring returns the actuator to a neutral position.

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Once you get in reinstalled correctly, you have to do a little trial and error to properly adjust the actuator so that you get the proper amount of braking. Too tightly installed, and the mower won't move. Too loose, and you can't stop. Use anti-seize on any bolt that you remove before reinstall.

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If you need more help, just ask.


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## kevsmif80 (Apr 19, 2010)

way late fixed this a long time ago but the issue was i put the belt on wrong and it caused the clutch to act as a gas peddle. I looked at the diagram as i put it on correct and it worked fine. 

who would have thought putting the belt on would have caused that


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Stranger things have happened - I have a 97 MTD with too short a back drive belt and caused it to scarey fast - bad for mowing, but good for racing .... i should mention you couldve replaced the plastic idler pulley with a steel one with berings in it- just make sure its the correct belt side ( either the v notch for the v side or flat side for the back of the belts).


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