# Why did I wait?



## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Well I have had my 8N for about two years now, and I knew I should have sooner, but finly got around to changing the trans fluid. YUCK!!!! Can the hydro lift work with water??? Pulled the small plug first, and wile a little water, and a TON of milky fluid, it did not look to bad. Then moved up to the front plug. LOTS of water, and pretty gucky. Last I pulled the mid plug. YUCK!!!!!!! It was REAL bad!!! Almost all water, and a lot of muck! Let all drain good, then flushed it out a bit. It was NASTY. Refilled with just under 5gals of 90 GL1 . Now two problems. One isa the lift is a little jerky, and slow. Is that normal, or is it just have to clean out a bit? Also with almost 5 gals in, it does not show on the stick. I am assuming I have a wrong stick. It DOES take right around 5gals right? Other the just work it, and let the new oil work its way in, anything else I should do? Just hope for the best? I do plan on another fluid change in the spring when I replace the shift boot, and fill cap gasket. As for now, I am planning on just laying a 5gal bucket over the shifter.


Also Changed the oil. This is the third change sence I have had it, but have put almost NO hours on it. REALY black and sludgy. I am assuming that the PO did not change it much. BTW it is smoking a little less now that I have a Tstat in it. Seems to be getting warmer, and running better. Guess I am on the right track.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Paul
Where did the water come from? Condensation?


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## bigl22 (Sep 16, 2003)

yes , water will work -- any non compressible fluid will work in a hydraulic syetm-- but water will rust it badly internally and solvents wil destroy all of the seals by making them soften to the point where they will desintigrate -- hydraulic fluid is what is recommended -- was this 8n under water? flood? hurricane?


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## psrumors (Apr 25, 2004)

8N's are notorious for having water in the trans. There are several areas it enters from, the gear shift area, the trans fill cap and the dipstick area.

You may just have some air in there Ingersoll, work it a little bit and see what happens.

As for the quantity I don't remember but if you take the lowest bolt out of the inspection cover (it goes all the way into the trans) that is where it is best to have it. Fill it to that hole. That is high enough to keep everything lubed but low enough as to not run over to your axle seals.

HTH


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Nope not under water, just years of neglect  


Now PS what one is the inspection cover?


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Is 90 wt. GL1 what goes in the trans. & hydraulic system on an 8N? I am no expert on the 8N but I though in nearly all open center hydraulic/transmission systems, transmission/hydraulic fluid was used? It is typically an SAE 30 wt. oil with a special additive package for hydraulic systems. 90 wt. is going to be mighty thick in cold weather.


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## psrumors (Apr 25, 2004)

You should have a round plate just above the left footboard and in front of the rear axle. When you re-install that bolt you will want to put some RVT or equivalint sealent on the threads so it doesn't leak.

Edit: I think it might even support the floorboard. IRC


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## psrumors (Apr 25, 2004)

Chief, yes GL1 is what is recommended. It is not 90wt gear lube rather a lighter oil. I always thought 90wt would be 90wt.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by psrumors _
> *You should have a round plate just above the left footboard and in front of the rear axle. When you re-install that bolt you will want to put some RVT or equivalint sealent on the threads so it doesn't leak.
> 
> Edit: I think it might even support the floorboard. IRC *



Cool thanks PS. I may pick up a new stick anyway when I get the boot,fillcap. Seal her up tight come spring


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## Ken N Tx (Sep 20, 2003)

Ingersoll444,when you filled the trans, most of the fluid stayed in the trans and did not transfer over to the hydro yet..work it for awhile, drive it around and let the oil spread between the trans,hydro area..Some owners only put in 4 3/4 gal so as to not pressure the wheel seals and get the brakes all gumbed up..

GL1 is a MINERAL oil, not a gear lube or hydro fluid..A little different for Fords than other machines with hydro..


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Thanks Ken, It was real cold also, so I kinda figured it may take some time to get worked in. Plus I am SURE there is all kinds of gunk, serfice rust, and muck in there, that will take a wile to work all the fresh lube in to, and clean out. Now its time to get aome attachment on the back of the old girl, and make sure it will lift it. Spent two years of off and on work, but almost ready to start realy using it.


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## Ken N Tx (Sep 20, 2003)

> _Originally posted by psrumors _
> *Chief, yes GL1 is what is recommended. It is not 90wt gear lube rather a lighter oil. I always thought 90wt would be 90wt. *


Its a 90wt MINERAL Oil..Not as thick as Hydro or gear lube..


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## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

Unfortunately with all the consumer hype about syn-th oils and etc, All new/rebuilt aviation recip engines are recommended to run the break in period with Mineral oil!! (Air cooled =Higher heat and greater bearing load stresses)!!! OK OK I know there is an alternative!!

Hello, what does that suggest to you guys??

PS. If you want to tell me how full of crap I am, forget it, I have disassembled and reassembled enough to stick with my above statement!!


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## Michael (Sep 16, 2003)

Hey Paul, You might want to run it for a little while and then you might want to change the fresh oil again after a few hours and put some more fresh stuff in it. My line of thinking is it might possible need a couple changes after a few hours of use before all the crap breaks loose and do you really want that stuff to float around until you do drain it again. I think that you might be better off using and using it somewhat hard and then do a drain again to rid of all the surface rust and scale out the inner workings.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Michael,

Ya been thinking of that, only thing is at this time I have no attachments for the tractor. Other then just running it,or pulling a small cart, I have no way to work it hard. Hopping to get a brushhog soon, and if so, then I will put it to use. Oh and I will replace the shift boot, fill cap, and dip stick at the same time.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Well seems some good has come of this. I used it last week for about 1/2 hour. I had to move my old plow blade to the front of the land, in case I finly sell the darn thing. Well last year when I tryed to life it with the 3PH it would not lift. Well this year it worked AWSOME!!! ALSO, I parked it with the lift up, and as of last night it is STILL in the full up possision.   It has ALWAYS dropped within a few hours eaven with no weight on it.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Well another week gone by and it is STILL in the up possision.  

Granted I have no weight on it, but still a lot better then it was. Used to drop after just a few hours with nothing on it. Looks like the brush hog will be coming soon, so that will be the REAL test.


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