# Hi I am John Posey



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I have a Ford NAA Tractor. Sad to say, it has been nothing but problems, from the start. I bought it in 2013. Almost from the start, it developed Hydraulic Problems. 3 pt. hitch quit.
Not knowing anything about tractors, I took it to a Tractor Repair Shop. $3000.00 in repairs later, I got it back, the 3 pt. worked for 3 operations. They replaces the pump with a piston pump, new plumbing and said it was good. I might say, part of the $3000.00 was a new clutch.
Having lost faith in the first Tractor Repair Shop, I took it to a Tractor Dealer, who had a good repartition. I had them do a couple things besides the 3 pt. hitch problem. Never the less, it price tag was about $2000.00. I got the tractor home and the 3 pt. worked for about 3 hours, using a back blade to clear snow from the driveway, then quit before we were finished.
The Mechanic, from the Tractor Dealer, came to my place and worked on the tractor for no-charge. He suspected the new pump may have failed, so he removed it and took it to their shop, to test. Pump tested Good. When he returned to re-install the pump, he noticed the Drive Gear at the rear of the engine, would spin freely, as if it was not connected to anything.
The gear has 4 hex-head bolts showing on it's face. They appear to screw into the rear of the engine camshaft.
One person told me the Key was probably sheared. I can't find any reference to a Key in the area of the cam and gear. Another person suggested the end of the camshaft is broken off.
The engine runs great. It's the only part that hasn't given me problems.
I'm hoping some one on this site can give me a clue, before I split the tractor.
Thanks, in advance for any help given. John Posey


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome John. I've seemed to have lost you somewhere between the 3 point failing and the cam shaft sheared off at the engine? I get a feeling the the tractor operates perfectly, but the 3 point hitch has failed. If that's the case, you may only need to go in to the transmission / rear end and see what may be wrong in the hydraulic section. 
On the other hand, the engine mounted hydraulic pump is run off a gear at the end f the camshaft as you were told. If the is the problem, I would suspect that your proof meter would quit working also.
Do you have a manual to help you with the repairs, or to show you what these guys may be talking about?


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Correct: The 3 pt. hitch has failed.
A tractor mechanic tested the pump, in shop.
When reinstalling the pump, he noticed the cam mounted gear would spin freely with his finger, as if not attached to anything.
I will be splitting the tractor, in the next few days.
If the rear end of the cam is sheared, that would explain the free wheeling gear.
If the cam is sheared, I'm not sure I am willing to pull the engine to replace it.
I have thought of removing the bucket lift and install it on a IH 2400A I have.
HAHAHA If I can get it to run again.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

John,
In looking at a parts breakdown of that engine the camshaft shows a half moon key and 4 bolts holding the gear in place.

https://www.steinertractor.com/FDS3305-Camshaft-with-hardware

be sure to read the specs concerning ID and installation.

https://www.steinertractor.com/FDS3310-Camshaft-Hydraulic-Pump-Drive-Gear


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

bbirder said:


> John,
> In looking at a parts breakdown of that engine the camshaft shows a half moon key and 4 bolts holding the gear in place.
> 
> https://www.steinertractor.com/FDS3305-Camshaft-with-hardware
> ...


Thank You for your reply. Looking at the camshaft shown, gave me another impression of just what I will find, after getting the tractor split. I don't believe I had seen such a complete picture of the camshaft. The ones I had seen, didn't show a key, although, a key has been mentioned to me by local farmers and Repair Shop.
Now, I am wondering, if the gear bolts to the end of the camshaft, what purpose does the key serve. The only thing I come up with is if the bolts go into a bearing/sleeve that only holds the gear in place and the actual driving function is accomplished by the Key. 
This tractor has been an aggravating and learning experience. I guess many questions will be answered when I get to the bottom of this "Money Pit".
Again, Thank You for your kind help. 
The work is slow going. I have COPD and Bad Knees so I have days I find it hard to function.
I had hoped to split this tractor last week, but that didn't happen. Maybe by the end of this week, I hope.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

I would think the woodruff key is to keep gear from turning on shaft and bolts prevent it from backing off of shaft. Did you read where they suggest soaking the gear in hot oil before assembly to the shaft. The gear is a press fit also. Best of luck getting your machine running.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I looked-up Ford NAA Camshaft Gear, on Steiner's site. They show both front and rear cam gears.
The write-up for the front camshaft gear mentions socking in hot oil, the write-up for the rear camshaft gear does not mention soaking in hot oil. The front gear does have a deep bushing and looks like it would require pressing on. If the rear gear also requires soaking in hot oil, I don't know what I would use to press it on, beyond it being pulled on via tightening the bolts.

Yes, when I originally read that, I was unsure about how it would work, for the rear gear.
Guess I'll soon find out. Thank You for your help. It is helping me to get a better understanding of how it is supposed to be, verses how it is now.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I looked-up Ford NAA Camshaft Gear, on Steiner's site. They show both front and rear cam gears.
The write-up for the front camshaft gear mentions soaking in hot oil, the write-up for the rear camshaft gear does not mention soaking in hot oil. The front gear does have a deep bushing and looks like it would require pressing on. If the rear gear also requires soaking in hot oil, I don't know what I would use to press it on, beyond it being pulled on via tightening the bolts.

Yes, when I originally read that, I was unsure about how it would work, for the rear gear.
Guess I'll soon find out. Thank You for your help. It is helping me to get a better understanding of how it is supposed to be, verses how it is now.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

You are correct. I read that too fast.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

First, let me, once more, say "Thank You" for your help.
We started with some, minor disassembly, Draining fluid, removal of the Feed/Return Manifold.
About that time, my neighbor, who is helping me, was asking questions about what I meant, when I said the gear moved freely. I removed the hydraulic pump and showed him the gear and problem.
While I had the pump off, I cleaned the gasket surface and found the "Hydraulic Gear Housing" has a sizable Crack on opposing sides. The cracks go completely through the cast iron. A couple more inches and they would meet.
I have ordered a "New" housing, due here Friday. I'll take it to the Tractor Dealer to have the shaft and support bearings installed and the whole thing resembled. They have a Hydraulics Shop and if any of the parts need pressed in-place, they are equipped to do it, as well as determine if any parts have worn.
I'm glad we found the Crack, all though it is another delay and expense.
I was out working on the Tractor today, didn't get much done. With my bad knees making it hard and painful to move around the beast, added to whoever installed the screws and bolts holding the Engine cover in place, over tightening them and stripping a couple, it took me almost 3 hours to remove 12 bolts and screws total. Different sizes used on same piece, etc.. Well, The guy who worked on my tractor last, isn't there anymore.
I hope you don't mind me giving you a running up-date and in such detail.

John


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I have been entering messages in the Introductions Column. Finally found this spot to message in.
My messages have been concerning problems with a Ford NAA Tractor 3 pt. hitch not operating, an the many times it has been worked on , by several "Tractor Mechanics" and the problem returning within a day or two.

Yesterday, Two men, My Neighbor and myself, knowing next too nothing about working on tractors.
We split the tractor, with many hold-ups, along the way. Very much a learning experience.
Once the tractor was split, we removed the clutch and flywheel, lined -up the notch on the crankshaft and removed the cam mounted hydraulic drive gear cover.
As soon as the cover was off, we went to remove the 4 bolts holding the drive gear and found all 4 bolts sheered, plus one of the gear teeth and a piece of another, laying loose. The gear had somehow sheered a tooth+.
I have been lead to believe there is a Woodruff Key installed in this area to prevent the attachment point of cam and gear. I saw no sign of a Key.

Now, my question is, does this tractor use a Key or was that only on older models.
If there is a Key, I want to install anew one while the Tractor is split.
Another thing we found was the Hydraulic gear housing had 2 cracks, one on each opposing sides. The cracks were all the way through the casting, a couple more inches and they would have joined.

This tractor has been trouble since day 1 and a sizable Money Pit.

Any help/advise will be appreciated.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Update: Ford NAA Tractor is still split and sitting in the garage.
I decided, since it was apart and things are easy to reach, I'm putting in New Gauges and Meters, the missing Tach cable and a new wring harness. Took time, to locate the parts I wanted, more time for Shipment. I was going to replace the Oil Pressure Sending Unit. Took a long time looking for one. After looking and then, with more research, I learned there IS NO oil pressure sending unit. I'm told the tube to the gauge-from engine, goes directly from engine to oil gauge. I had a hard time believing this, but was convinced that the Operation does not send oil into the gauge. It uses pressure from the block to enter the tube and pressurize the air in the tube. The air pressure is what operates the gauge. I haven't been able to buy this 100%, yet. I'm at a "wait and see" stage. Still waiting on the hydraulic pump to be returned, plus the gaskets I need to replace, the ones ruined on disassembly or missing at disassembly .
The Hydraulic pump, hot weather , inside garage gets very, very HOT, add to that My Bad Knees and COPD and it is very slow going. 8/6/2019, I go in for more knee examination and possibly a Cortisone Shots in both knees. I sure hope they work! The shot he gave me the last time, didn't help. If Cortisone doesn't work, I think my last option is Knee Replacements.
Wish me luck! I hope this week, the pump come back and my knees feel well enough to work on it. In reality, my Neighbor (37 yr. old and good shape) does all the work. I have only been able to do minimum things and find and hand him tools. Don't know what I would do without him. He is a tremendously good neighbor.
I'll continue this saga as it progresses.
Thanks for all your Likes, Comment and Assistance.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Have you tried a knee brace, or something along that line? It's hard when the legs go. Mine are starting to rebel these days as well.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

The answer to that would be a : Yes, sort of. Meaning: I have tried a bunch of OTC knee support/braces, so, thinking of that, and the results, in Reality, No.
I spoke with the Doctor, last Friday, he is suggesting Cortisone shots, this time and if that doesn't work, I think he will go with the Professional Knee Braces, not the Mickey Mouse things I tried.
After the Cortisone, if that doesn't relieve the pain, I believe my last option is Surgery .
I have been avoiding surgery, like the plague. But, if you are at your end of options, you do the Unthinkable.
I would suggest having your knees examined by a Doctor, Now, before it gets out-of-hand.
I had Torn the Cartilage in both knees, at separate times. I had the Arthroscopic Surgery, each time. Some swear by it. Didn't work very well for me. I continued to have pain most of the time. Now it has gotten severe.

On a lighter note, I decided to finally Replace the Steering wheel on the old Ford. The one on it now is half coated, half bare steel. It has a loader on it, really Too Big, for this size tractor and without Power Steering, it becomes nearly impossible to steer with the bucket full of gravel.
Also, it's weight, full or empty, shifts all the weight forward, lightens the weight on the rear wheels to the point there is little traction. Loader was on it when I bought it.
If we can get this thing back together, it will have a New Hydraulic Drive gear, all New Gauges, New Tach, and a New Wiring Harness.

Thank You for writing and suggesting the knee braces. I appreciate your interest.
When you lose the ability to walk and stand, for any length of time, it makes life very hard.
I'm fortunate to have the neighbor I have. Don't know what I would/could do without him.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Haven't accomplished any more on the old Ford. Temps have been in the high 90's and low 100's. plus the New gear and my Hydraulic Pump hasn't arrive , yet. Main thing is the Hydraulic Drive Gear, s I can start reassembling this monster-$$-Pit.
I admit to a little vanity, concerning the repair of the Old Ford. After so many different people, calling themselves Tractor Mechanics, have worked on this problem, without success, it would feel great to finally have it working correctly, from my, neighbors and this site's efforts!!

My one big question left, is finding a list of torque values for the various parts removed. Don't really like the old-time system of tighten to one grunt or on some item 2 1/2 grunts. Many bolts have met the demise that way.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Newest snag in this project. My NAA has the old cam gear, with 1/4" bolts and bolt holes. It seems they are now made of Unobtainum. The newer gear, with 5/16" holes and bolts, cost anywhere from $50-$70. The only one available with 1/4" holes and bolts is $245. Go Figure???
Another surprise to make life interesting.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Unobtainum. I think you need to talk to the folks that print the "Periodic Table"!!
Too funny...
Sorry for your woes!


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

That is what we used to call anything that was Excessively High $$$ or Hard to Find or Obtain. It was meant to be  Funny. I would like to have used ROFL Emoticon, but there isn't one listed.
I'm starting to expect things to go wrong, with this tractor. Almost, like it is cursed.

I talked with the Shop Supervisor, today. He has every thing under control. He was trying to save me some $$$, and find a cheaper one and eliminate ordering from different sources and save me $$$ on multiple shippers.
Since I'm getting a little antsy to put this thing together, or to sleep, I told him to get the High $$ one and be done with it.
Long ago, I learned that, Persistence will always over-come Resistance. As long as I continue to chip away at these problems, I will eventually run-out of problems, or $$$, which ever comes first. HAHAHAHA


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I thank everyone who has read and Replied and/or Liked my Posts. I do Appreciate the likes and Replies. This site and the members have helped me to learn and understand this beast better than ever before. With your help and encouragement, I can't lose,,,,,,,,I hope.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Here I am, over 2 weeks later and No Real Progress to report.
The Hydraulic Pump is still at the Tractor Dealers, Hydraulic Shop. They report, difficulty finding the parts they need to do a proper swap, of the gear housing. One Parts Dealer, after another, say they have the parts on-hand, but never send promised parts. The Mechanic has had to, Start from square-one, over and over. One part that is proving to be very elusive is the Drive Gear with 1/4" bolt holes. mis-communication between he and I, lead to one delay. I hope he understands, I want the New Gear, before I can put the old beast back together. I may have confused the issue, once again, by mentioning I had found a Used Gear for $25, verses the New Gear at $245. I did tell him I want the New Gear.
I didn't tell him, yet, that I later bought the Used Gear. I was hoping it was in good shape, but when it arrived, I found considerable wear on some of the gear-teeth. There is a ridge on one side of some teeth, where the gear has been worn. Ridge is about 1/16" high. The surface of the Gear, over-all, indicate it underwent a considerable amount of cleaning of probably oil crud build-up.
In Short, I'm not wanting to use this gear. I feel I would only be installing Future Trouble.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Hi all;
I finally have all the parts, bits and pieces and things. Now it's time to start re-assembly.
I bought a new wiring harness and it arrived without a wiring-diagram or wire Id's. It might take awhile to sort out, which wire was intended for what.
The Tractor Dealer Shop got the needed parts for the gear housing swap And a "Used Drive Gear", I wanted a New One. Lucky for me, the Shop Supervisor, was looking out for my money and not letting me waste it. New gear $264, the Used Gear $38. The Used Gear he got looks New.
I still haven't found a list of torque values for the Fly Wheel, Hyd. Gear or Clutch Pressure Plate.
I have been feeling bad since my latest trip to Colville, WA. Usually, I have sinus and/or stomach problems, every time I go there, but it's the nearest place to get Groceries and Medical Attention, and most anything else you need.
I'm hoping to be in the garage, tomorrow to start sorting out the wiring harness.
If my neighbor comes over, he will probably install the Flywheel and Clutch, and hyd. drive gear.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Hello All;

The Ford NAA is back together.
The tractor started after the re-wiring and the engine sounded good. I did think I heard one clang, as the engine fired-up. I looked at the New Gauges and found the Amp Meter appears Not to work, The Tach doesn't work, the Temp. gauge works, the Oil pressure gauge works. I suspect the noise I heard on start-up was the Tab in the deep-slotted screw at the head of the hydraulic pump. The tab turns the connection where the tach cable fits. Took the cable off the pump and turned the engine, no movement of the connector, so I am sure the tab broke. I'll take the fitting off and hopefully, be able to find and remove the broken tab, before it can get into anything and cause more problems. The Amp meter, I recheck my connections and wire routes, to be sure it is, in-fact, correctly connected.
Further attempts to start the engine failed. I figured the engine ran long enough to use the fuel in the carb and then quit and the floats were stuck n the up position. We had put on a New Settling Bowl Unit (had a Devil of a time with the bowl leaking, even when over tightened) and had fuel floe through it, but very little through a in-line filter. removed the filter, tried again. Still would not start, never fired at all.
More checking and found the carburetor wasn't letting gas in.
Removed the carb and got a rebuild kit. Now I had very good fuel flow. Trouble was, it never stopped. I figured the floats were stuck in the position. Since I know, next to, nothing about the inside and workings of carburetors and this one had been rebuilt a couple times, that I know of, I decided to replace the carb with a New one. Be here tomorrow.
I had checked the Points, rotor cap and they looked Bad. My Helper has a Bad Habit of leaving the ignition key ON, whenever the engine stopped or he had tried to start it. I suspect the damage I saw was, the points were crystalized from the switch being left on. 

My next thought, to improve the performance of staring and continuous running, is to switch to Electronic Ignition. My question is: What are ALL the PARTS I need? I see several Kits, on the Internet, but they don't tell you much, beyond their Price. 
It seems like I am trying to create a "Silk Purse from a Pigs Ear", with all the work and money that has gone into this beast. I can't, Honestly, say I see much progress or promise, yet.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Hello John,
See if you can find a video specific to your tractor and the installation of the electronic ignition. That may help you understand the process and parts required. Some folks here have done the switch and are glad they did. Mabye they can offer some advise.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Hi pogobill, been a few months since we last spoke. How have you been?
Thank You for the advice. Good idea.
I have been fighting this NAA for years. First couple times, I had it taken to Repair Shops ( the "Repair" in that, is very questionable)all they accomplished is to charge High $$$$ and really do nothing,. or in some ways made things worse.
Last, about 5 months, maybe longer, I have been in a battle with this Beast, with the help of my neighbor, who knows nothing about Tractors, either.
It's been fun, and very aggravating, at times.
Am I winning the Battle? Sometimes I think so, other times I doubt it.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Research the specific electronic ignition that you would require and see if Messicks or Steiner has them, to name a couple. They should be fairly straight forward to install. Pertonix seems to be one that I have considered in the past.
This may work for you
https://pertronix.com/agriculturalignitorconversions?year=1953&make=Ford&model=Series 500 thru 900#auto
Works with the side mount distributor, but not to be used with solid core spark plug wires. You can contact them and be sure, and ask any questions that theie website doesn't answer for you.
I've been well, by the way, thanks for asking! And yourself?


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

As you advised, I found a video on youtube, from Edz Garage, and he showed how to do it, step by step. Seemed very easy.

The Brand of Electronic Ignition Kit I have thought of using is the Pertronic Brand. They are relative inexpensive and seem simple to install. I am considering using New Plugs, Coil, Distributor Cap, and Rotor.

My New Carburetor arrived, today. I installed it and after a couple minor tweaks to the Idle and Power needles, it seems to be running well. It tried to start on the first try but would spit back through the Carb. Thinking about when I worked on it, yesterday, I had knocked 2 plug wire off. Not knowing where they from, I put them where I thought. Seems I was wrong. Swapped them today, it started up. The joys of inexperience and hast.

I'll look at the site and Dealers you suggested. Thank You!!


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

John C. Posey said:


> The joys of inexperience and hast.


John, so sorry to ear of your woes with the Ford NAA. My dad had an alright 8N. It was fussy for starting it. Other than that it worked. When I had gotten older, I wanted one like my dad had. I looked for over a year, but only found worn and beaten down machines. The restored ones were too perfect and high dollar. Thus, it only became a dream of getting one. A close friend before his passing gave me his JD-850. Like your experience, that machine was money pit and blew up. WHY? The tractor diesel mechanic was clueless for john deere machines. he bent the throttle governor rod in the bottom of the engine and had the #2 & #3 fuel lines swapped. It' lasted less than 3 days. After a blown head, and cracked block and over $1,200 invested, I found a replacement engine OR .. a completely restored version for just a mere $300 more. That's how I got the Yanmar version of the JD-850. 

I just stumbled on your thread here. Read it all. Got me thinking too. Really ancient tractors after several decades can be a money pit. Then again, the guy here with the NEW tractor in another thread is having a tough time too.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Hi bmaverick;

Yes, this NAA has been a money pit and a source of many hours of aggravation and frustration.
I'm hoping, after splitting it , with the help of my neighbor, and getting it back together, than the 3 pt. problem is solved.
The engine not running after the split is a long, recurring matter. The carburetor has been finicky since I git it. The carburetor has been rebuilt 2 or 3 times by "Professional" mechanics. Never helped. This time I rebuilt it myself. There were a couple things, I didn't 100% understand or eel good about. But I followed the instructions. When I turned the gas on I had good fuel flow, too good. It never stopped.
At that point, I ordered a New Carburetor. Arrived yesterday. I installed the carb, tried to start it , got a couple "Puffs" but no firing. Then I remembered two plug wires had com off the day before and I wasn't sure which terminals they came from. So I swapped the two wires and the engine started right up. Ran a little sloppy, but a little tweaking of the idle and power needles smoothed it. Need to do a little more to get it "just right". 
Time will tell if the problems are solved or just delayed.
Thanks for writing.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

John, when you first got the NAA, how much was it or was it gifted to you? Like you said, a money pit to the extent you could almost buy a really nice lightly used Mahindra right now. For just about $6,000, a fully rebuilt & restored Yanmar like mine with a 1yr warranty. Mine is a 1981, but acts just like a 2014 when I got it. It's also a semi-automatic with the Power-shift (shuttle-shift) system with 'live' PTO. 

Hope that your woes are nearly over with this. I do agree, the professionals these days just follow the instruction booklets no different than we do. Professionals from yesteryears long ago were literally professionals (pre-90s). 

I've been handicapped since late summer. Thus I've depended on folks and my boys for nearly EVERYTHING. It took 6 hours today to detail the vehicle, bleed the brakes, top off the fluids to being winterizing it. Got a few more items to do, but with one arm right now, it seems to eat up the hours on the clock. My hat off to you doing the carb. I couldn't do that right now. I can't even tie shoes nor zipper a jacket ! It's frustrating actually. Pop over to the trailer sub forum. My boys are doing the work so far on restoring the trailer. I can pass tools and barely use the camera.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

'Morning bmaverick;

I am very sadden to hear of your handicap! I don't like or want anyone to suffer limitations.
I hope you limitations are something that will heal and you recover!

As to your questions of cost of NAA:
Purchase price $2600. It has a Aftermarket Front Loader by Shawnee.
Everything worked, when/as purchased.
3 pt. quit shortly after Purchase
Took to Repair Shop for 3 pt., cautionary replacement of Clutch.
They claimed my Hyd. Pump was bad, replaced with a Piston Pump
Repairs $2980 and new hyd. manifold and replaced the Starter Button, etc.
3pt. worked for about 5 or 6 cycles, up and down.
Took to a Tractor Dealer to have 3 pt. fixed and tune-up, plus a few minor things.
Repairs ?? $2550 minor things. Repairs lasted about 3 to 4 hours.

Had no 3 pt. for a couple years. My neighbor likes to work on mechanical things, especially pick-ups and tractors. He pestered me to break-down the NAA and for us to fix the problem. 
After the last Repair, I had found the problem was the Hyd. Pump Drive Gear was spinning freely, Not turning the Pump. Only access to the gear is to split the tractor and remove the clutch and flywheel, to get to the metal shield over the gear.
What we found was, all 4 of the mounting bolts had sheared off, Plus there was tooth broken off of the drive gear. Being the type that uses 1/4" bolts, it was hard to find a replacement gear.
Of course, all this hunting for parts, two people who don't know what they are doing took a long time. ( Large part of the time is my fault. I have COPD and very bad knees, didn't feel up-to working on it)
It is mostly back together. We have had it running and the 3 pt., thus far, has went up and down.
Still need to Install the Hood, and a couple of the bolts of the front loader are refusing to lign-up and we now have one of them stuck, with no idea how we will get it out.
I am thinking, maybe if I jack the weight off that side, it might come out, with some work.
My neighbor wants to take the whole wheel off. Because of the weight of the filled tire, I'm reluctant to do that, but it might be the answer.
During our efforts, I have spent maybe another $500 to $600, probably Maybe more??
I got pretty frustrated and discourage with this thing, so I quit keeping records. It was Depressing.
If it works now, I will be very suspicious of it for a long time, I have lost my trust in it. As you know, once you lose trust in something or someone, it takes a long, long time to regain that.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I have been trying to find the cause of when a New drive Bushing and Drive Unit is put on my NAA, upon starting, it shears the tab off the end of the Drive piece. Happened twice. Once when a ?Mechanic? installed the New Piston Hydraulic Pump and again when I had the Pump to a Tractor Dealer's Shop for installation of a New gear housing. 
I like things to work and this is giving me a problem.

Thanks for any help!


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Been a long time but with the Help and Advise of Several Members and a Local Old Farmer/Mechanic, the NAA is back together and running, with 12 volt conversion added for extra measure.
I plan to install an Electronic Ignition,but that may have to wait until Spring.

The 6 volt charging system was constantly giving problems and the last time I took the Generator in for Testing and/or repair I was told it needed to be rebuilt (Again). I figured I could install the 12 volt conversion kit for less $$$$ and that would be a good time to do it.

THANK YOU to all the Members who gave me Advise and Guidence !!!


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