# Yellow LED Strobe Light!



## Mrsig (Jun 6, 2021)

Yellow LED Strobe Light! 
Installed 10amp fuse in line to my accessory breaker ran the wires to a water proof switch and up to the light.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

I use LED warning strobes on my tractors when on the road going field to field. Got mine from www.superbrightleds.com Much, much lower amp draw than conventional incandescent strobes. No fancy wiring or relays required.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

All that crazy wiring. Looks toooooo complicated to tackle just to make a yellow light 'blink'. 

Why not used a simple turn signal flasher, switch, a few wires and the yellow light assembly.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Kind of wonder what his alternator capacity is. He has to be close and what a rats nest of wires... Don't have that many lights on my field tractors and I travel after dark lots of times. My alternator on my M is 80 amp. I bet his is a lot less.

My beacon draws less than 1/4 amp.


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## Mrsig (Jun 6, 2021)

My LS has the upgraded 50 Amp alternator.
I have added a 100amp breaker to the battery below.
I have my LED light bars, Horn & Yellow LED strobe going to relays than fuses than the breaker. So when the tractor is not in use I click the breaker off so no drain on the battery. The LED light bars switches light up red when off and green when on.

When it was at the dealer for the 50 hour service they said they liked what I did by not having every thing just go to the battery like they see most of the time.

LED light bars & horn switches.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Mrsig said:


> My LS has the upgraded 50 Amp alternator.
> I have added a 100amp breaker to the battery below.
> I have my LED light bars, Horn & Yellow LED strobe going to relays than fuses than the breaker. So when the tractor is not in use I click the breaker off so no drain on the battery. The LED light bars switches light up red when off and green when on.
> 
> ...


Nice. It works for you.  

My machine is PRE-computer era, thus no need for all that extra relay and a higher Amp alternator. My machine already has the better alternator. The only upgrade I would like is to go from the glass fuses to the mini-fuses. BUT, the replacement fuse block (made of plastic) is $70+shipping! Grant it, I can pick 6 or 8 sockets, thus a 2 socket upgrade would be nicer. But the price is a killer. 

The turn signal flasher box is basically a relay in itself, howbeit an old school type. 

IS there room or a way to either zip tie all the wire bundles and hardware off of the battery?


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

I added a Led bar for front and small Led pod for rear on my Kubota also..the loader mostly blocks headlights. I seldom use but handy moving hay bales at night and usually dark before I get home in winter.

I ran direct fused 12 gauge to battery for each light and wanted to be able to use these momentarily with key off. I don’t drive on road, but if I did I would just use flashers that are visible front and rear.

I ran the wires inside rubber tubing (water line) that’s way more durable and less expensive than the crinkly wire wrap. This was run parallel to existing wire harness to battery. But no wires are loose anywhere and battery access is same as oem. You may want to tidy up the wiring at battery in case you need a jump.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

bmaverick said:


> Nice. It works for you.
> 
> My machine is PRE-computer era, thus no need for all that extra relay and a higher Amp alternator. My machine already has the better alternator. The only upgrade I would like is to go from the glass fuses to the mini-fuses. BUT, the replacement fuse block (made of plastic) is $70+shipping! Grant it, I can pick 6 or 8 sockets, thus a 2 socket upgrade would be nicer. But the price is a killer.
> 
> ...


These are pretty slick for $20..... Just rewired a 48 Willys pickup with one and they make a rewire job fairly simple. Even comes with 2 dozen fuses and the little red lights, down the center, come on when a fuse is burnt out









12-way Fuse Block

Might have gone a little overboard by the time I was done


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> These are pretty slick for $20..... Just rewired a 48 Willys pickup with one and they make a rewire job fairly simple. Even comes with 2 dozen fuses and the little red lights, down the center, come on when a fuse is burnt out
> View attachment 73248
> 
> 
> ...


Clean looking install…nice


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

This is pic of my lights and switches….didn’t take one of battery, but it’s 2 wires with fuses. I ran 12 gauge which is way over capacity for those lights and switches are 30 amp rated, which is 3x capacity needed. No need for relays as all are home run wired. 

I have no strobe, but did wire in front and rear cams with wireless monitor….not super useful, but was a fun project.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

I'm impressed. I hope all of you guys know what wire does what and goes where. I'd have to label everything because info like that leaks out of my head in about 3 days.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

TX MX5200 said:


> Clean looking install…nice


It's mounted to the left side "kick panel", between the door post and the firewall like some modern cars. Made a cover out of the same ABS plastic and it attaches with ATV "Body Buttons". Only thing visible is the little contraption at the upper right corner of the photo with the red 10ga running to it. That's actually the main 200A circuit breaker coming from the battery and works as a "cutoff" switch also. As a 6VDC system, Willys/Overland didn't even bother to put fuses in anything. The relays are for anything you want to turn on with the key..... Instruments, heater motor, wiper motor, turn signals. Everything else runs off direct battery voltage. Didn't trust the 73 year old cloth wrapped wiring some knucklehead kept, then went and proceeded to convert it over to a 12VDC system (fire waiting to happen). Ripping the 73 year old brake lines and single cylinder master cylinder out this week and replacing them with new stuff I feel I can trust. Hope to have it ready for the local parade if Uncle Joe and that Little troll Fauci says it's OK to celebrate the 4th of July like we have for the last 245 years.

1948 Willys/Overland


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> It's mounted to the left side "kick panel", between the door post and the firewall like some modern cars. Made a cover out of the same ABS plastic and it attaches with ATV "Body Buttons". Only thing visible is the little contraption at the upper right corner of the photo with the red 10ga running to it. That's actually the main 200A circuit breaker coming from the battery and works as a "cutoff" switch also. As a 6VDC system, Willys/Overland didn't even bother to put fuses in anything. The relays are for anything you want to turn on with the key..... Instruments, heater motor, wiper motor, turn signals. Everything else runs off direct battery voltage. Didn't trust the 73 year old cloth wrapped wiring some knucklehead kept, then went and proceeded to convert it over to a 12VDC system (fire waiting to happen). Ripping the 73 year old brake lines and single cylinder master cylinder out this week and replacing them with new stuff I feel I can trust. Hope to have it ready for the local parade if Uncle Joe and that Little troll Fauci says it's OK to celebrate the 4th of July like we have for the last 245 years.
> 
> 1948 Willys/Overland
> View attachment 73258


Nice looking…is it clear coated? If not, I would and keep that same color look. If I may add, if it were mine, which it ain’t, I would slap a slight 2” lift on front and get her sitting level and strong.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

TX MX5200 said:


> Nice looking…is it clear coated? If not, I would and keep that same color look. If I may add, if it were mine, which it ain’t, I would slap a slight 2” lift on front and get her sitting level and strong.


I'm arguing with my Son (actually his truck) about the paint job. He's saying the same thing about the clear coat. My take is it's a fad, made popular by that knucklehead Richard Rawlins and his douche bag flunkies at Fast and Loud, and won't be around 10 years from now.

Same feelings about a lift kit. It actually sits level, the photo is deceptive. I'm old school and say keep it as original as possible, but still roadworthy and reliable. Always shake my head when I see somebody take a classic vintage vehicle and think it's cool to put something like the rims below on it, or drop a fuel injected crate small block in it (that's right up there with putting laser sights on a 1873 Martini-Henry British Army rifle in my opinion). I poke at him with..... "What's up kid, you want to people to think you're a super mechanic, but you don't even know how to use my dwell meter and timing light?".


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

bontai Joe said:


> I'm impressed. I hope all of you guys know what wire does what and goes where. I'd have to label everything because info like that leaks out of my head in about 3 days.


Haha…..I only have two wires run to battery and everything is grounded to frame. The wire with 5amp fuse is rear light and one with 10amp is front. Green switch is front and red is rear…I too have to keep it simple which is why I use oversized wiring and switches to avoid relays etc.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Relays have their purpose and they are about as simple as you can get once you figure out how to use them. Don't need really heavy gauge wiring if you know how to use relays. Really cool thing about relays is that you can "switch" either the positive, or ground side.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> Relays have their purpose and they are about as simple as you can get once you figure out how to use them. Don't need really heavy gauge wiring if you know how to use relays. Really cool thing about relays is that you can "switch" either the positive, or ground side.


I agree and I have installed them on UTVs where the power load calls for them…however, if the amp draw is low, wire distance is short and all parts of circuit (wire, device and switch) has capacities well over the load, then a relay is only one more item to fail and 4 more connections to short.

The another issue with the relays are water intrusion and heat exposure. I never install them anywhere near a radiator or where blowing water will be likely, either during cleanup or common use. On my UTV installs, I used a project box to enclose them and mount up high in the front compartment along the inner dash panel.

But then again, I don’t run thin gauge wiring for switches either….that’s why I didn’t use the oem accessory wire under the Kubota fenders as it looked to be 16ga. If I was limited to using a factory installed dash switch then yes, I absolutely would use a relay….keep in mind, my led rear is a 6” pod and the front led is a 20” bar and pull on latter is around 10amp and my load capacity is 30amp.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TX MX5200 said:


> I agree and I have installed them on UTVs where the power load calls for them…however, if the amp draw is low, wire distance is short and all parts of circuit (wire, device and switch) has capacities well over the load, then a relay is only one more item to fail and 4 more connections to short.
> 
> The another issue with the relays are water intrusion and heat exposure. I never install them anywhere near a radiator or where blowing water will be likely, either during cleanup or common use. On my UTV installs, I used a project box to enclose them and mount up high in the front compartment along the inner dash panel.
> 
> But then again, I don’t run thin gauge wiring for switches either….that’s why I didn’t use the oem accessory wire under the Kubota fenders as it looked to be 16ga. If I was limited to using a factory installed dash switch then yes, I absolutely would use a relay….keep in mind, my led rear is a 6” pod and the front led is a 20” bar and pull on latter is around 10amp and my load capacity is 30amp.


Relays in the 30A and higher get PRIECY really fast. My former workplace tossed out 40 of the 50A relays because they were of the wrong p/n. I have them in a project bin for later use. They are rated for 10-gauge or larger wires.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

bmaverick said:


> Relays in the 30A and higher get PRIECY really fast. My former workplace tossed out 40 of the 50A relays because they were of the wrong p/n. I have them in a project bin for later use. They are rated for 10-gauge or larger wires.


Don't see a whole lot of 30A+ fuses in automotive fuse panels today, so what's the need for a 30A+ relay? I use relays primarily to turn on a component with the key switch, as opposed to running direct battery power. I'd rather burn a relay, than burn the entire machine. Other than a spring-loaded starter relay, what are you planning on running that draws even close to 50A?


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Bob Driver said:


> Don't see a whole lot of 30A+ fuses in automotive fuse panels today, so what's the need for a 30A+ relay? I use relays primarily to turn on a component with the key switch, as opposed to running direct battery power. I'd rather burn a relay, than burn the entire machine. Other than a spring-loaded starter relay, what are you planning on running that draws even close to 50A?


Dual blowers that draw 22Amps each.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> Don't see a whole lot of 30A+ fuses in automotive fuse panels today, so what's the need for a 30A+ relay? I use relays primarily to turn on a component with the key switch, as opposed to running direct battery power. I'd rather burn a relay, than burn the entire machine. Other than a spring-loaded starter relay, what are you planning on running that draws even close to 50A?


Electric floor heater for UTV is another high amp device…My 4500lb UTV winch pulls 250 amps at full load. As stated, if I need a relay I use one. If I don’t, then I don’t as they offer another problem source in the system.

I yanked all dealer installed 16 and 14 ga wiring from my UTV and re wired it all with 12 ga home runs with fuse banks within 6” of battery. Some are wired up for constant hot and others for key on only thru a single relay controlled bus bar that’s weather proofed.

If I need a quick light use or accessory use, I don’t have to turn on ignition which causes fuel pump, ready beep to sound and ignition system to become hot. I also have accessory plugs at front and rear hitches for sprayers, spreaders or feeders etc. on occasion I run two sprayers…I’m not limited due to small ga wiring for anything I need to run and all circuits are protected with fuses well below circuit capacity.

Here’s issue with relay use when not needed….rear accssry switch, front accssry switch, front LED switch, rear LED switch and Go Light Auto rotating light….using relays on these when not needed adds FIVE relays and TWENTY wire connections to the system to fail. If something doesn’t work on mine, I know it’s a fuse if my switch light doesn’t light…otherwise it’s my device.

Only reason to use a relay is if your load exceeds your switch or switch wiring. I have relays for winch and electric heater as those are large ga wiring items and amp pull exceeds or is too close to my switch capacities for comfort. The heater is 20amp draw… May be overkill but my rule is best to overkill on capacity and keep system simple, clean and uncluttered. 

Not judging your decision, just explaining for others who aren’t familiar with issue so they have all the info in case they decide to add accessories and seek info. I will say I’ve wired up six UTVs the same way for myself and buds and only issue after 4 years has been one bud had a wire plug pull loose off back of a dash switch….nobody has ever even had a fuse let go and these machines get worked in incredibly rough terrains.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

To the original poster…I appreciate the work and thought you put into protecting the electrical and I’m offering this as friendly advice, which is what this forum is here for. I’ve reworked projects based on opinions on this forum myself and I never proclaim to an expert at anything other than my livelihood, which isn’t tractors or their use…I enjoy learning and offer the below as friendly suggestions to consider cleaning things up.

the wiring is not organized and obstructs battery access…there’s black wiring going to hot side of battery, so wrap it in red electrical tape…tractors rattle and roll and those relays are zipped to a round bar and are going to rattle and roll along with the vibration…all those connections are in front of hot radiator and high heat exposed…that a wet area as if it rains the fan is sucking in water plus it’s going to get wet when washing it down…loose wiring is a problem, you already have what looks to be wiring damaged from hood latch as it’s hanging down over the latch.

Again, just food for thought but I would pick a rainy day and have some fun cleaning it all up and organizing…much more fun than tv


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)




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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

_I’ve wired up six UTVs the same way for myself and buds _

If you consider that a major accomplishment and you're proud of yourself, I'm happy for you too!!! Problem is most people don't exactly consider that even close to the criteria for an Electrical Engineering Degree. What are you after on a simple side-by-side electrical system, the redundancy and reliability of the space shuttle, or nuclear attack sub? Mine just takes me from Point A to Point B and if something breaks along the way, that's why I carry a tool box.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Bob Driver said:


> _I’ve wired up six UTVs the same way for myself and buds _
> 
> If you consider that a major accomplishment and you're proud of yourself, I'm happy for you too!!! Problem is most people don't exactly consider that even close to the criteria for an Electrical Engineering Degree. What are you after on a simple side-by-side electrical system, the redundancy and reliability of the space shuttle, or nuclear attack sub? Mine just takes me from Point A to Point B and if something breaks along the way, that's why I carry a tool box.


Whatever you say Cowboy…I never claimed to be an expert or electrical engineer and obviously you have no EE degree either. Don’t get mad because you asked what would use over 30amps and you got the answers. 

Maybe there’s nothing you’ve run across in 50 years of mower and weed eater repair, but your assumption that only you know about relays is wrong podna….and I bet that tool box get used getting you from point A to B and it’s most likely because of your jacked up relays!….what a hump!!

Again, I’m no professional like you…never have claimed to be, unlike you. I have worked on 4 wheelers, UTVs, Cars, Trucks, Tractors, Motorcycles, Windmills, Water wells, Aerobic systems, Mowers, Trailers, Chainsaws, HVAC systems, household plumbing and a birdhouse though…also, wired my barn, game room and shop plus changed out a toilet lid. Does this qualify me to make a post and disagree with your 50 years of zero turn mower repair when they haven’t been around 50 years?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

We're all in this together boys! Let's stick to the fundamentals of this forum, being friendly and informative. A lot of us folks that are tasked by just doing a tractor service, etc. are glad to have the resources of the members here, to offer advise and helpful information. Let us not discourage participation.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

pogobill said:


> We're all in this together boys! Let's stick to the fundamentals of this forum, being friendly and informative. A lot of us folks that are tasked by just doing a tractor service, etc. are glad to have the resources of the members here, to offer advise and helpful information. Let us not discourage participation.


My bad Bill.... I'll do better, I promise


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Little FYI, SuperbrightLed has the LED beacon / strobes on sale for 49 bucks. Very little current draw as they are LED.


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