# new holland tc45da questions and pricing



## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

I am very new to tractors I use to use my dads ford 8n around his house a few years ago. that is the only large tractor experience i have. i am buying a 2006 new holland tc45da with about 900 hrs in the next week or so, it comes with a woodmaster bb72 brush hog and a disc, what would be a good price for this? what would be a great price?

i am planning on selling the brush hog as i have no use for it. what is it worth?

any pointers things to watch out for, things to not do etc. it has a hydro transmission and i have a bolens garden tractor that has hydro so i am familair with how that works, but i have not had a diesel engine vehicle before so any and all information would be helpful. thanks.


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## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

Hi Sniper,

Welcome to the Ford New Holland tractor forum. 

Is the tractor you are looking at a 4WD unit? Most of them are. Does it have a cab?

I recommend that you go to the tractorhouse.com website and do a search for a New Holland TC45DA. They have about 6-8 listed. A couple have cabs. Most have 4WD. Some have relatively high hours for a few years of service. Model years vary. Prices are all over the place. REMEMBER, these are dealer prices. So they are a bit high. 

I see a 2006 model TC45DA with low hours for $15K in Missouri. My GUESS is that this is a reasonable (Dealer) price in Missouri. Tractor prices vary around the Country. 

If the Woodmaster 6' mower is actually a used WOODS mower in good condition, you should be able to get about $1000 for it. Depending upon condition. Woods makes good equipment. If it's a used aftermarket mower, it won't be worth that much. I spotted a new Woods/Heritage mower on the internet for $1950. 

Check with your local dealership regarding prices. They will be your best source for valuations. Watch ebay to see what they are going for as well.

If you do buy the tractor, first thing to get is an Operator's Manual to learn all of the maintenance requirements for the tractor.


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

ok thanks, it is a woodmaster hopefully i can get around 1000$ that was more then i was hoping for. i will be getting next week. any advice on using the tractor? anything that is different about diesel engines?


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

I got the tractor last night will try to get some pics up shortly


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

i was plowing my driveway the other day and as i was pushing a good bucket full of snow (light fluffy dry snow) my tractor started to bog down like it was really being stressed almost ran out of power, i was also trying to drive up a small incline, maybe 3-4 ft up over 20ft slope and it was acting like it didnt have the power? ( i backed up got a little speed and it drove up it) is this normal? it was in high range on hydro? and it was cold maybe 15 degrees, i had let it warm up for a few minutes and these issues were after it had been running for at least 10 minutes, also i noticed if i pushed down on forward pedal kinda quick it would bog down motor, and accelerate slower then i thought it should, the bucket and loader were working great this whole time. i am pretty new to tractors like this i have only had it for a week, my only other experience was a ford 8n and that never seemed to lose power, it just lost traction.


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## fatjay (Dec 6, 2013)

I'm no expert but I would say that is not normal at all. Like the 8n, it should lose traction before it loses power.


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## Ed_F (Jun 18, 2013)

Howdy Sniper,

Nice looking tractor. It has a 45HP engine, which shouldn't bog down pushing snow. I suspect it has something binding internally. May be due to the cold weather and stiff lubricants. Remember, you warm up the engine but the tranny and differential are cold. If you can, take it for a drive and operate all functions before putting it to work. 

Sometimes four wheel drive will bind when you make a sharp turn if traction is good enough that the wheels can't slip. A 4WD needs some wheel slippage or it binds up. If you are making hard turns, this may be the problem. To check this out, take it out of four wheel drive and see how it does. 

Check with your New Holland dealer to get their opinion. Check also with the previous owner. He may be able to tell what's happening from your description. 

If it bogs down again, stop and back it up and try it again. When it bogs down, you are putting a LOT of power into something. Not Good.


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

OK thanks I will try driving it first next time. How far should I drive it? For a minute or two or longer? I just wanted to find out if it was normal or something I was doing wrong. 

Can anyone tell me more about the engine block heater? Like when should you use it? How long does it need plugged in at what temps? Is there a chart like this anywhere? Can you leave it plugged in over night or for long periods of time? Thanks for your help


I drove it again last night, let the engine block heater be plugged in for over an hour drove a few laps around my yard and it was running way better, I tried to push my pile where i dump my snow and it just broke the tires loose so i think my issue was driving it while it was cold without letting it warm up enough.


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

I have some family that are about 2-3 miles from me, is it a bad idea to drive that far on the road? will it wear out tires etc? I am assuming you would make sure to only drive in 2wd on pavement?


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

When I sell the brush hog should I include the PTO shaft? Or is that something I should keep with my tractor?


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## Ed_F (Jun 18, 2013)

The PTO shaft should go with the mower, as it is an expensive item ($200-$300). Part of the mower cost. A mower without a PTO shaft isn't very useful.

Tractors are slow on the highway. My biggest concern would be to get rear-ended. If the highway you refer to is heavily trafficked, I would haul the tractor with a trailer. It's not a big deal to load up your tractor and haul it, once you've done it a few times.

Plug in the block heater 1-2 hours prior to starting it (maybe 3 hrs if extremely cold). There is no point to run the block heater all night. Wastes electrical power and shortens the life of the heating coil.


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

Its a moderately travelled country road. Lots of tractors drive on it (farm fields on both sides) i dont have a trailer that could hold the tractor so that's not an option. Is there any issue with driving it on the road about 2-4 miles. Will it wear the tires or tranny?

OK so the PTO shaft is part of the brush hog? If you bought one new from dealer would it include it? I just dont want to get rid of it if I would need it in the future..


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

Can anyone answer my question above please thanks


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## Harvey_W (Nov 23, 2013)

Road travel will NOT harm your tires of tranny. Just make sure your flashers are working and use them. Keep an eye out for traffic stacking up behind you. If so, and you have a convenient place to pull over, pull over and let them pass (don't get stuck in a ditch).

Yes, dealers supply a PTO shaft with the mower. Wouldn't be very useful without one.

You might consider keeping your mower. They come in mighty handy. I use mine frequently. 

OK, now I remember - I did buy a PTO generator without a shaft. From Northern Tool. I use the shaft from my tiller on the generator. Needs a very short shaft.


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

OK thanks. I only have an acre and a half of property no place to use brush hog and I don't have room to store it inside. I don't want it sitting out side rusting away.

Thanks for the info on road travel that was what I needed to know


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I have the same tractor, except mine is red and it's called a Case.









I had problems with mine bogging down and blowing black smoke. The issue is too much pedal and load, and not enough throttle, so it will power out. Also learn to feed the pedals, and not floor them as this will overload the engine. I found this out when I let my nephew drive the tractor and he stomped on the pedals!
Should keep your tractor out of 4 wheel drive unless you really need it. Driving on the road is fine but again, 2 Wheel drive, flashers on, and get yourself one of those slow moving vehicle signs for the back.
Also as mentioned earlier, plug your tractor in -2 hours before you need it, that's good enough. When I run mine, I always raise and dump the bucket, the lower and curl up the bucket just so all the cylinders go through their full range of movement... I do it slowly just to push the hydraulic fluid through the pump and it helps warm things up a little.
By the way, those lovely handles mounted on the fenders, I only use them to hold on to when I am travelling on the tractor. If you use them too much to get on and off of your tractor, especially in the cold, you'll crack the fender where the roll bar is bolted to it. Try to grab the loader boom or steering wheel if you need help to climb up


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

While i don't have this tractor, I'm curious what range the tranny was in. Just trying to start simple, but for that heavy of work I'd think you should be in low.


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

So far I have only used high range. The low is very very slow. And if it is warmed up properly it works fine. I think I was trying to use it when it was to cold.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Yeah, cold oil doesn't flow very well. Our Bobcat gets pretty cranky when the weather gets cold, as its all hydraulic. The engine just drives a giant hydraulic pump that powers everything. One thing when working with a tractor is that when you are actually doing work (like pushing snow, disking, digging in the ground, etc) you should be running the engine at full speed. Its not like a car where you vary engine speed to control your wheel speed. The engine runs full throttle and you vary the speed with the pedals or gears. If you are just driving around with it, then you don't necessarily need to run the engine wide open, but if you are working it, then I would.


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## sniper695 (Dec 6, 2013)

Country Boy said:


> Yeah, cold oil doesn't flow very well. Our Bobcat gets pretty cranky when the weather gets cold, as its all hydraulic. The engine just drives a giant hydraulic pump that powers everything. One thing when working with a tractor is that when you are actually doing work (like pushing snow, disking, digging in the ground, etc) you should be running the engine at full speed. Its not like a car where you vary engine speed to control your wheel speed. The engine runs full throttle and you vary the speed with the pedals or gears. If you are just driving around with it, then you don't necessarily need to run the engine wide open, but if you are working it, then I would.



I run it almost full throttle, I forget what the rpms are but its where the pto is at full speed (540 rpm) I figure this is where the tractor is designed to run at, it is around 80% throttle.


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