# 8N won't stay running...



## Rocky Acres (Nov 10, 2021)

My 1952 8N will start with the choke pulled out and held, but as soon as I let the choke go, it dies.
I replaced the inline fuel filter. Any other suggestions? It seems to have plenty of gas to the carb. Not sure how to set the air/fuel mixture screw.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum. Here is a good read that may help you out.





Ford 8N Tractor Carb Adjustments







www.myfordtractors.com




In the mean time, the 8N has a gravity fed fuel system and it's not really recommended to have an inline fuel filter. There are already filters in the tank petcock, a screen in the fuel bowl and a screen in the carb fuel line inlet.
If the tractor seems to run well with the choke pulled out, it may be a symptom of a gummed up carb. Try getting some Seafoam motor treatment into the carb through the fuel system (In the tank) and then shut the tractor down, shut off the fuel and let the residual gas in the carb soak over night.


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## Rocky Acres (Nov 10, 2021)

pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum. Here is a good read that may help you out.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks so much for the input. I'll try your suggestions.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

You can check your fuel delivery by pulling the plug on the bottom of the carburetor bowl and catching the fuel in a pint jar. It should fill the pint jar in 2-3 minutes.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Yes "T" that will tell Rocky if there is fuel flow from the tank to the drain hole in the float bowl. What it doesn't verify is all the other factors that come into play from the float bowl to the cylinders.

Thoughts on your circumstances Rocky:
1: A good 1/4" spark on all 4 cylinders (probably OK since it starts on the choke.)
2: Good, unrestricted air flow (probably OK since it starts on the choke.)
3. Compression (probably OK since it starts on the choke.)
4: Fuel through both "sides" of the carb's needle valves (the choke side should be OK *but *the "regular" side with the float and its jet is probably the problem. Dirt, sticking needle valve, gummy 'stuff', rust or corrosion & worn components come to mind - *UNLESS* you already changed out the old carb for one of those bright, new,shiny, Chinesium ones. If that is the sad case, go find your old one and re-do it. If you *Do *have one of those new, shiny Aluminum ones turn it into a shop lamp --- they ARE shiny and that's pretty much all they're good for.

So, pull the carb, meticulously clean everything, replace gaskets and any deficient components, pre-set the carb needle valves as with any "new" carb, fire it up and adjust the carb as normal to optimize the RPMs *** just the way that the Ford Maintenance Manual describes.

Now - *If* *you feel lucky* simply pull the carb and drop it into 2 or 3 baggies and pour some Sea Foam or Berryman's B-12 carb cleaner in with the carb (partially disassembled to get the good juice inside to all the nooks and crannies), seal the bags and go eat lunch. 2 coffees, no pie.
Carefully blow out with compressed air after lunch and see what you have. I've seen that work in the past. If that works --- make a sacred promise to only use non-ethanol gas before putting your baby to bed for months and months. That's what I do!

- Joe -


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