# need new spark plug series23 RER 12.5HP intex



## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

need new spark plug series23 RER 12.5HP intex

the mower seriel # 2012912220 it's a 2009 rear engine 12.5 horse power riding mower I would like a new spark plug
model # 7800105


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hi Brain,

Take out your old spark plug and get the numbers off of it. The number will be on the ceramic part. Replace with the same plug number or equivalent.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Big t I have no confidence the current spark plug is the correct type.it's not even a briggs straton plug. remember I purchased a used snapper.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)




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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I thought the intex/briggs& straton engines preform best w/ there own briggs & stratton spark sparks.
walmart has a bunch of them in there lawn mower dept.
I like NGK use in car and tow vehicle 
my 2004 175hp johnson outboard motor only likes champion, it will run on NGK but not optimally. 
FredM I'd prefer a briggs spark plug for my model snapper. thanks


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

I do believe that a B&S plug is a rebadged Champ. Briggs isn't in the spark plug business, never have been. Least I don't think they have ever been but stranger things have happened.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

TheBrain said:


> I thought the intex/briggs& straton engines preform best w/ there own briggs & stratton spark sparks.
> walmart has a bunch of them in there lawn mower dept.
> I like NGK use in car and tow vehicle
> my 2004 175hp johnson outboard motor only likes champion, it will run on NGK but not optimally.
> FredM I'd prefer a briggs spark plug for my model snapper. thanks


That is your choice, but as SC Flip said, Briggs is only the brand name and is not a genuine built Briggs spark plug, so you are paying extra for the name, but still your choice.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Kind of like branded motor oil, example Kubota SUDT or JD Hytrans. They have their oils made by independent oil suppliers and they put their respective labels on the jugs.

I was just at TSC and no Rotella T6 anywhere.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

It's a $2.50 spark plug...... Briggs # 491055B -- Champion RC12YC -- NGK BKR5ES
All the same SAE spec plug, all the same performance.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Fred M was correct champion RC12YC is what jacks small engines also suggests
is this cold version or regular?
woopies there seems to be a couple rc12yc I think I'd like the cold.









thanks Guys for advice.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I'm still confused evidently there are three RC12YC ?


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Probably more than 3 depending on how many manufacturers make the spark plugs. Only thing to be concerned about is the model number, in this case RC12YC. That designates the heat range, the length of plug (from the end of the electrode to the threaded base as well as if the center top has a removable cap or a fixed cap or no cap at all.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

OK sounds good I thought I wanted a cold version. Thanks


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

*"I'm still confused" *

Tell me about it.... I suspect you're misunderstanding the meaning of the terms "hot" and "cold" as they relate to spark plugs(most people do). Spark plugs with a *high degree** of heat dispersal/transfer* are called *high heat range* (cold type) and those with a *low degree of heat dispersal/transfer *are called *low heat range* (hot type). It has nothing to do with the "heat" generated as they spark, it's how much/how fast the heat is transferred away from the "gas pocket" of the sparkplug to the head. The engineering concept/nomenclature has exactly the opposite meaning of what a lot of people think. Pay close attention to what they describe about the insulator protrusion in the "gas pocket" of a spark plug in the link below and you'll be able to recognize a "hotter" and "colder" plug with the same thread size/length by looking at the volume area of the gas pocket ......

Spark Plug Heat Range 101


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

*RC12YC ----

R* -- *Resistor
C *-- _Shell design_..... *14mm x 1.25mm, .750", gasket/joint, 5/8" hex*
*12* -- _Heat range_ *1-20
Y* -- _Nose projection_...... *.060"-.090"
C* -- _Ground electrode material_..... *Copper*

Champion Spark Plug Coding


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Bob Driver said:


> *"I'm still confused" *
> 
> Tell me about it.... I suspect you're misunderstanding the meaning of the terms "hot" and "cold" as they relate to spark plugs(most people do). Spark plugs with a *high degree** of heat dispersal/transfer* are called *high heat range* (cold type) and those with a *low degree of heat dispersal/transfer *are called *low heat range* (hot type). It has nothing to do with the "heat" generated as they spark, it's how much/how fast the heat is transferred away from the "gas pocket" of the sparkplug to the head. The engineering concept/nomenclature has exactly the opposite meaning of what a lot of people think. Pay close attention to what they describe about the insulator protrusion in the "gas pocket" of a spark plug in the link below and you'll be able to recognize a "hotter" and "colder" plug with the same thread size/length by looking at the tip......
> 
> Spark Plug Heat Range 101


Well, thanks for clearing that up. I never knew that! I wonder what that heat range would do to say minimize the fouling of the plugs on older engines?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

I actually had the class "Spark Plug 101" in motorcycle mechanic school. That was when there were a lot of two-strokes around, and plug fouling was a huge issue. To pass the class, you were tested on know how to "read" a spark plug by it's tip condition, know the major OEM's Spark plug coding, and arrange a line of six plugs from "hotter" to "colder" as you picked them randomly out of a coffee can full of plugs just by looking at the gas pocket. The easiest way to understand it correctly is..... The *larger* the volume in the gas pocket area, the *higher/hotter* the cylinder temperature runs.

Every plug in that coffee can also had an "Index" mark on it. "Spark plug indexing" is kind of a controversial issue now, but old school "bike tuners" firmly believed in it. I was taught to index the open end of the spark plug electrode to "face into the wind" (sweep scavenging) coming from the inlet port on a two stroke to supposedly achieve a better/more complete fuel charge burn without the interference of the actual spark being "behind" the ground electrode. On a 4-stroke, I still index the open end of a spark plug toward the intake valve even today just from habit. You sometimes have to play with the thickness of the seal washer to get the tip indexed right and not over torque the plug. I still have a Skoal can full of "indexing washers" in my tool box, they are color coded by thickness. Each different color/thickness allows for a certain number of degrees of "rotation" to index the open end of the plug into the incoming fuel charge. They still make them, so apparently there are still enough of us old guys around that believe in it for them to sell them........ I'll bet FredM knows what I'm talking about from his bike racing days

Spark Plug Indexing

Indexing Washer Color Coding


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Bob Driver said:


> They still make them, so apparently there are still enough of us old guys around that believe in it for them to sell them........ I'll bet FredM knows what I'm talking about from his bike racing days


Gonna have to let you down Bob, back when we hadn't heard of indexing, our biggest aim was to get as much Shell A racing fuel into the motor as we were running 12:1 domed pistons, my 500CC swing arm BSA ran a inch and 3/16" Amal Monoblock carby with the main jet removed and we used Lodge brand Racing plugs that were compatible with the racing A fuel.

I do understand what you are talking about, recently I saw an article about the advantage of modding the earth electrode on a standard plug and make it a side electrode, supposedly does improve running, thought I might have a go on my Briggs Vee twin, instead of 22HP, I may get 24HP. 😂


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

FredM said:


> Gonna have to let you down Bob, back when we hadn't heard of indexing, our biggest aim was to get as much Shell A racing fuel into the motor as we were running 12:1 domed pistons, my 500CC swing arm BSA ran a inch and 3/16" Amal Monoblock carby with the main jet removed and we used Lodge brand Racing plugs that were compatible with the racing A fuel.
> 
> I do understand what you are talking about, recently I saw an article about the advantage of modding the earth electrode on a standard plug and make it a side electrode, supposedly does improve running, thought I might have a go on my Briggs Vee twin, instead of 22HP, I may get 24HP. 😂


That's probably because you were running those domed pistons and had to run actual racing plugs for clearance. With most true racing plugs, the spark takes place almost entirely inside the gas pocket of the plug. There is little, to no, ground electrode protrusion into the combustion chamber. They are about the *only* plugs you can use with 12:1 domed pistons. The problem becomes the concentrated "hot spot" on the piston face, which leads to "holed out" pistons, right between the valve pockets... No real need to know about indexing a plug


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

GEEZ!! Lodge was making side electrode plugs back in the 1920's, I thought I had saved the article address to Fav's, can't find it though.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

FredM said:


> GEEZ!! Lodge was making side electrode plugs back in the 1920's, I thought I had saved the article address to Fav's, can't find it though.


The only time I've even seen Lodge spark plugs they were in a really wicked 1974 850 Norton Dunstall Commando I owned. That thing had the straight line speed to run with any Z-1 Kawasaki, but unlike the Z-1, it would go around a corner like it was on rails. I did a lot of matching racing with that Dunstall. It was a money maker in either a drag race, or on a twisty road. I always wished I hadn't sold it, but I probably would either be dead or in a wheelchair now if I had kept it. That bike was truly "scary fast_"........._


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

thanks Guys learned alot about spark plugs. I'm speculating the sometimes-roughing condition is actually caused by a worn weak plug.yet to remove and inspect, I thought I had completed my last mow/leaf bag job, mite mow/leaf bag once more. if I post a video where you Guys can hear how she cutting out could it be somewhat diagnosed?

I suspect both plug & 3 month old gasoline which was treated w/ stabil gas conditioner, I usually don't keep gas around that long this gas was planned for my Yamaha inverter generated for when the devil turns power off.

I was also planning a video because it seams that when blade is engaged there's serious under the deck vibrations this can be easily heard.thanks


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

TheBrain said:


> thanks Guys learned alot about spark plugs. I'm speculating the sometimes-roughing condition is actually caused by a worn weak plug.yet to remove and inspect, I thought I had completed my last mow/leaf bag job, mite mow/leaf bag once more. if I post a video where you Guys can hear how she cutting out could it be somewhat diagnosed?
> 
> I suspect both plug & 3 month old gasoline which was treated w/ stabil gas conditioner, I usually don't keep gas around that long this gas was planned for my Yamaha inverter generated for when the devil turns power off.
> 
> I was also planning a video because it seams that when blade is engaged there's serious under the deck vibrations this can be easily heard.thanks


If you're running the stock bagger attachment on your RER Snapper, you should have the curved frame arms on the back that support it. Remove the bagger attachment down to those curved arms. The cool part about the RER Snapper is the machine is designed for you to pick the front end up and stand the entire mower on it's tail to work on the deck and drive system with those arms as the ground supports. Notice the gas tank just rides in a slot at the back of the seat.... That's so you can "quick disconnect" it when you stand the machine up for service and not leak fuel out the gas cap. Pinch the fuel line off, or install a plastic shut off valve, and pull the fuel tank. Make sure the oil cap is on tight and stand the machine up like in the picture below to see what the problem is under the deck. Those RER Snappers run the longest blades of almost any mower, if they get bent, or out of balance, they vibrate like crazy. Make sure that metal discharge channel shown in the picture below isn't bent or deformed by an impact with something. BTW.... The blade on this machine is mounted upside down, the "lift wing" goes *UP* to create the deck vacuum and stand the grass up for the blade to cut....


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

actually my snapper isn't a high vac. it's a regular that I bought a used bagger sys. side tube, long tube & bagger, I've been fine tuning it sometimes the upward tube that I've bolted to the deck gets clogged quick an the cuttings shoot out the bottom. then I have a empty bag.
I didn't know about the blade being upside down. I actually have a new blade plan to use next season.

I'll check your suggestions I was thinking there where some bearing under the deck that I have neglected to grease.

here's a few images.notice the shoot tube I bolted to deck,(I only use the bagger when leaves cover yard)

also notice the upper part of deck obstructs the flow. new ningra type blade I'm hoping it'll help w/ lift.then the new regular blade which even w/ deck at it's highest position it still hits my paver Homemade backyard driveway it also hits the driveway if I don't approach just right so you most like correct the blade is




























bent.even at it's highest it still cut bald spot in flat yard.









edit 1st image is old blade when I bought the snapper I replaced w/ same 2nd season attached new.
thanks Bob for advice
btw is that your garage? lots of toys to play w/.very good.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

here's the spark plug from my orginal engine 
Spark plug briggs and Stratton #4910557
Briggs & Stratton Replacement Spark Plug 5092, RC14YC, RC12YC - Walmart.com

she was running terriable at end of last season skipping & backfiring hopefully a new plug will get her running smooth.
old plug covered in black dry blackness not wet black oil but like chimmey suit.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Running rich, check to see if the choke is fully opening when choke is released, also you do run the engine at full throttle when working the mower, especially with the bagger on?.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

OK I'll check the choke w/ the air intake tube off if the choke is fully on will the carbs butterfly be fully open?
the throttle cable has always been a bit stiff, not smooth it's like I have to force it into position.

yes I normalley mow w/ or w/out bag at wide open. edit this plug has in the old engine for at least 3 seasons.
thanks FredM.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

TheBrain said:


> OK I'll check the choke w/ the air intake tube off if the choke is fully on will the carbs butterfly be fully open?
> the throttle cable has always been a bit stiff, not smooth it's like I have to force it into position.
> 
> yes I normalley mow w/ or w/out bag at wide open. edit this plug has in the old engine for at least 3 seasons.
> thanks FredM.


If you have a single throttle/choke cable combination, then the throttle butterfly will be fully open when placed in choke mode.

I guess your throttle cable is enclosed with a plastic sheath, if that is the case, disconnect one end and remove the cable from mower and then raise up higher that the other end and try and get some light oil to run down the length to lube the inner cable, you could try a good dewatering fluid like WD40, RP7 also, prior to the sheathed cable, it was just a matter of spraying the outside housing with WD40 or RP7 to lube the inner.

Your old plug also looks a little wet, so a hotter plug may be required.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

OK thanks for tips on throttle cable, like when I have to choke for a cold or sometime warm start I have to force it always forward so something sticking the carb only has one butterfly correct?
I plan to lube the front wheels rear axel bearing, I think there are zerk fittings under the deck also remember the underdeck is vibrating something horrible maybe greasing the mower blade spindal will reduce vibrations.( if ishe continues to vib. I'll swap in the new gator blade.)

top off rear axel diff. fluid.how do I check for proper level?

and change oil. the replacement engines oil drain I believe the plastic part is leaking will reuse old engine piece.
I purchased a container of briggs oil I think it's a tan more than a 32oz. quart it's 48oz exactly how much doe's the 12.5hp require?
I've been putting off lubeing the zerk fittings BC I'm transitioning to green grease Green Grease Synthetic Waterproof High Temperature Grease - Walmart.com some call it white grease is it OK to mix my new white grease w/ the old fashioned conventional wheel bearing grease? I'd prefer to only have one grease gun.
thanks again FredM


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

https://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heiltJvLlSZk



See if you can open the above address, page 18 shows how to check the transmission, has a lot of information that will help you with your mower, have a good read of it.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I've allready had the owners manuel when it comes to trans. fluid this doc says to stand mower up on stand then look into pep hole if you don't see fluid add some kindof weird. 

if I remember correctly I think I saw on a video just stick your finger inside pep hole then bend finger down, if it gets wet no oil needed if dry add a tad.also I added rearend 90weight I use in cars rearend. 

what do you think about mixing my new synthentic white grease w/ the little bit of conventional grease thats there allready? I've read greases aren't susposed to be mxed. thanks


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I guess what you put into the transmission case is your choice, the manual says Snapper grease, you could use the equivalent of another brand, -- you don't have any housing leaks from using the 90 weight gear oil?.

Greases are not supposed to be mixed unless compatible, have you googled "mixing white grease with conventional grease"?, you will get your answer from that, where bearings are concerned, ball or taper, try and use the same type grease from the beginning, otherwise you should remove the bearings and clean out the old grease and repack with what you want to use if compatible with these type bearings.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I didn't know what trans fluid besides snappers version, at the time if I remember correctly I read 90weight was acceptable, I'll take a close look for leaks.what do you think about sticking the finger inside trans case. the manule look inside is just to weird.
better not take a chance w/ the lube and buy a second grease gun.
I'll report back w/ the carbs butterfly on /off the choke thanks FredM.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

The level in the transmission housing is the bottom inspection hole when you have the Snapper standing on its backside, there should be another fill hole above to pour in the lube, by rights the lube should be lapping the level hole, but as long this is slightly below, then you should be good to go.

The gear oil you are using will be ok, just that the transmission case is not sealed and may leak over a period of time, you give it an eyeball from time to time and all will be ok I am sure, that is the only reason Snapper want you to use their product which I believe is 00 grade and you can get this grade in other brand names and cheaper I believe.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

OK good tips on the trans fluid. what is the weight of 00 grade? I cruised by walmart this morning google had them having the spark plugs someone beat me to them, there's another WM google has them having them to mite pick them up Monday. 
can I remove the zerk fitting to inspect the color of the lube? I'm pretty sure it's conventional like who use's synthentic on a mower, so I'm thinking differnt colors of conventional can be mixed?
I've used brown/blue (I think blue is marine for trailer hubs) con.grease my Buddy only use's expensive red cheveron he put's it on everything including car cylinder head gaskets before torqueing them down.
thanks


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I would hazard a guess that you have been using 90 in the trans for quite some time, why change now?, keep using it.

And surely the grease cartridge you have in your grease gun will have a brand name and the grease consistency on it, the brand name is nothing, but the consistency is.

If you are unsure about something, try googling for info.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

this is the spark plug that came out of my snapper 12.5hp intex engine rer rear engine rider.
spark plug briggs and stratton #4910557, all I see online is 491055 no 7 as last digit, what is the 7 for?

walmart is sold out of the 491055 both at store and online. they took my order then cancelled an hour later.

is it possible to clean this old plug for at least a few mows. I'm over due a few weeks now.

I do see this rc12yc spark plug on ebay?GENUINE OEM CHAMPION SPARK PLUG PART # RC12YC (2 PACK) 37551002665 | eBay thanks


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

You know old mate, we have discussed this plug issue from the beginning of this thread, you seem to be stuck on using a Briggs numbered spark plug, we have tried to explain Briggs don't make spark plugs and a comparable numbered spark plug is ok like the Champion RC12YC, the same with the correct numbered NGK, they have the same thread pitch, same thread length and same heat range, but are not branded Briggs, why are you not running genuine Johnson spark plugs in your 175HP outboard??, now that would be a must in my opinion, but same deal, if Johnson supply branded plugs, then these will be made by an outside company.

There is nothing stopping you from cleaning your old spark plug, if you have a bench grinder, I can show you a photo of a home made plug cleaning tool made from an old hacksaw blade, works a treat and the thickness of the blade is very close to standard plug gaps, give me a little time to get a photo and attach here.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I forgot to show the cleaning blade length, as long as this is slightly longer that the depth of the spark plug recess, will be fine.

Dip in water when shaping to prevent the metal overheating and loosing its temper.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I'm not apposed to the champion rc12yc I was just concerned about why doe's my briggs spark plug have a 7 as last digit.if I remember correctly I purchased this spark plug at a lawn mower place however it wasn't a dealer for snapper, I mite cruise by and ask for another plug 
they always ask for model # of mower to sell correct part wonder if they come up w/ same plug if yes I'll be asking for a explanation.

the ebay seller didn't even know what that 7 stood for and he's a snapper dealer. I have a grinder how is the tool used are you scraping down inside plugs side walls.

btw if johnson made plugs or had a co. make them and johnson put there name on it one plug would sell for $10. + each.
remember boat stuff cost like 4 times regular stuff. I'll order the ebays and report back, thanks

edit I actuelly wanted the briggs because they where the cheapest at $2.81


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

TheBrain said:


> I have a grinder how is the tool used are you scraping down inside plugs side walls.


Yep!!, after cleaning inside with the tool, wash the inside with a small amount of fuel or cleaning agent, blow dry if you have a compressor.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

heck I have a little hook tool I could scrape w/ maybe spray w/ brake clean? I don't have a compressor.

better order from ebay while he still has them. anyway it's been raining consistently for a couple of weeks kindof like Pasific northwest if it stops for a week the lawn will still be wet. it's so wet it could be 3 weeks before I can mow.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

update I think I ordered the wronge spark plug rc14yc, I saw that the 4910557(which is unavailable) replaces both the rc12yc and the rc14yc
so I thought the rc12yc was the same as the rc14yc, I hoping the 14 won't ruin the newly replaced engine.

darn I just reread Freds post # 4 his chart says rc12yc. not rc14yc.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

If it threads into the hole and the threaded part is the same length as the spark plug that everyone has told you to use, it won't smack a hole in your piston and you should be good to go.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

sometimes I wish I wasn't so cheap, I opted for the $3. walmart sp.
I should've ordered the 2 plugs at ebay, which is what I'll do.all this to save 75. cent per plug.
wierd that one plug replaces 2 the rc12yc an rc14yc.thanks guys for advice will report back when I get the proper plug.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

The RC14YC is slightly hotter that the RC12YC spark plug Brain.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

TheBrain said:


> update I think I ordered the wronge spark plug rc14yc, I saw that the 4910557(which is unavailable) replaces both the rc12yc and the rc14yc
> so I thought the rc12yc was the same as the rc14yc, I hoping the 14 won't ruin the newly replaced engine.


darn I just reread Freds post # 4 his chart says rc12yc. not rc14yc.

Brain!!, how about a photo showing the Briggs plug #4910557, I cannot find that number at all and all that comes up is the Briggs #491055, which I have in my Briggs Vee twin 22HP vertical shaft engine.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

where are you searching I've googled and binged. I went ahead an ordered the rc12yc from ebay lucky I did bc he was down to only 4. I got a 2 pack for just over $8.
not sure about walmarts curbside service they'll hold till sunday I assume then they refund me.

here's a couple images of the 4910557 it's kindof fuzzy use a magifieing glass if you zoom it gets more fuzzy the 7 is there.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I just figured it out it's not a 7 it's a T which stands for S dam these lunatics just have to make it confussing. look at the plug it's a T then look at the part # it's a S.
here we go again wonder what the S means.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Briggs And Stratton 491055T - Plug-Spark Rc12Yc (Briggs Oem Part) Free Shipping


Fast and Free Shipping. Genuine Briggs and Stratton part number - PLUG-SPARK RC12YC. We carry replacement parts at great price.




www.briggsstrattonstore.com


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I'm not even gonna ask what the S stands for. I sure hope ebay ships the correct plug and she runs good w/ the champion done w/ briggs to much crappola.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

The plug that I show refers to the 491055*T* that you are concerned about......


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Results of new rc12yc spark was awesome ran good nice and smooth no back fire what so ever.
The throttle cable seamed to be wrapped around the deck level lever so it was in a bind, I rerouted and throttle control seams fine. she now when hot restarts at full throttle not necessary to choke anymore.

Still haven’t lubed but did get a new grease gun, couldn’t find my old grease & box where I keep the grease & cartridges.
See I have the mini GG and I repack the small cartridges. I’ve decided to switch back to regular marine grease.

I will still use the couple of tubes of white synthic on the boat trailers hubs, hand packed w/ regular dust caps.
also grease my streeing ram, car door hinges ect.

Another observation w/ the snapper is that I’m now going on my 3rd season w/ replacement used engine & battery so I’m assuming the charging sys. On old engine wasn’t fully charging.
In the previous seasons w/ old engine I bought a new battery every year , and a old timer told me that was normal
Starting to think he’s been lying to me not just about the battery but about a lot of other car engine stuff.

Glad I got the spark plug bc it’s been raining a lot, mine and surrounding niebors are over due a tad.
These new improved politicians running the city are anxious to write $150. nuisance tickets if you have weeds or over grown a couple weeks. These are the same A$$holes that are changing street names an removing historic statutes go figure. thanks Guys for advice.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Man, this has got to be some sort of record..... 53 post over a $3 spark plug


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Not only spark plugs Bob, also lubrication and a home made spark plug cleaner.

And the Briggs brand spark plug comes with different letters at the end of the number your quoted number 491055B, then we have 491055S, 491055T and to top it off, my Briggs plugs are 491055, so take your pick.

I thought I would make this #54 post (OOPS!! #55) for the heck of it.😁


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

OK, some thoughts........ 1.) It's still a $3 spark plug. 2.) Champion makes the plugs for Briggs 3.) S at the end of a Briggs plug # means suppressor (Resistor Plug)

I've just gone with the Champion RC12YC's for the last 20 years and never had a problem, or a worry about it........ They're $1.30 wholesale if you buy 24 at a time

R = Resistor
C = 14mm x 5/8 Hex x 3/4" reach
12 = Heat range (It's exactly in the middle, they run from 1 to 25)
Y = Standard projected nose core
C = Copper plus design

I've posted this before, because most people don't correctly understand what the term "heat Range" means with a spark plug. It's not how hot the actually spark runs, it's how quickly the "gas pocket" of the plug transfers the heat away from the combustion chamber through the head. 

Understanding Spark Plug Heat Range

I can't believe 56 post over a $3 spark plug......


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Wow, $5.49 up this way! LOL................................... #57


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

pogobill said:


> Wow, $5.49 up this way! LOL................................... #57


That's how we get even for the price of that lumber you guys ship this way..... I can clean a spark plug, there's not a lot of options when you're framing a wall


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Just had to add this to the plug story, this price is from Bunnings hardware store, Townsville, AU, a large complex that sells everything, from flower plants to timber and cement, so you blokes are getting a good deal on your spark plug prices, if I shop around, I can find the price as low as $9au


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

FredM said:


> Just had to add this to the plug story, this price is from Bunnings hardware store, Townsville, AU, a large complex that sells everything, from flower plants to timber and cement, so you blokes are getting a good deal on your spark plug prices, if I shop around, I can find the price as low as $9au
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 79164


Always wanted to visit OZ...... So now you've helped me figure out a way. I've collected a 5 gallon bucket that is 3/4 full of used mower and motorcycle spark plugs. At those prices, I could dump that in a suitcase and bring them with me. Sell them at a swap meet for $8 each and pay for the whole trip


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Bob Driver said:


> Always wanted to visit OZ...... So now you've helped me figure out a way. I've collected a 5 gallon bucket that is 3/4 full of used mower and motorcycle spark plugs. At those prices, I could dump that in a suitcase and bring them with me. Sell them at a swap meet for $8 each and pay for the whole trip


You do that Bob!!, but it would be far more profitable and easier to just come over and when you convert your US dollar, we will pay you around $1.30AU for each US dollar, and you wouldn't have the hassle of having to lug that 5 gallon bucket.


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