# Having issues starting Kubota Tractor B2920



## anthony lucero

Hello everyone! Need some assistance if anyone can chime I've been having issues with my '09 Kubota B2920. long story short after plenty of troubleshooting its definitely not a safety switch. 
What I noticed on an unsuccessful start up.
Key gets entered into the ignition
I move the key up one setting (accessory) not sure exactly what its called on a tractor. I hear a loud CLICK and the dash lights up. 
I move the key up another setting to let the glow plug warm up
I try to start the engine and nothing happens. No engine attempt nothing. (again, its not the clutch, safety switches, pto)

ON A SUCCESSFUL START UP.
When the key is in the accessory setting, the dash lights up (it lights up in an unsuccessful start up as well) however the ONLY DIFFERENCE is I see the *battery light on
*
This is been consistent during this entire ordeal, we are talking months at this point. It will start up just fine then not work. Then work again two days later but not work again a week later.

I know whether my tractor will start up or not by one thing - if that battery light comes on on the dash during the first key turn. 

So what I did was pull out the ignition switch, my friend showed me a cool trick with a paper clip to get the to the first turn without an actual key, the battery light came on in the dash so we thought it was ignition switch. I purchased a new ignition switch and it worked 5 start ups after installation then out of no where I tried to start up my tractor (battery light did not come on the dash) so I knew it sure enough my tractor didn't start. I tried again 2 hours later on off on off on off and on one of those attempts the battery light flickered then faded away. 

That's all I've got can anyone please offer some insight. Again its not any of the safety switches and its not the ignition switch. That battery light (new battery btw) is the determining factor. Thank you everyone, love my Kubota B2920 and would like to get her back up and running _consistently_.


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## sixbales

Howdy Anthony,
Intermittents are difficult to find. I have an old/small Kubota diesel tractor, that I've had a number of electrical problems with over the years with varying degrees of corrosion inside electrical connectors. I recommend that you get a spray can of electrical contact cleaner. Open your electrical connectors carefully, spray both male & female parts, put them back together and "work" them a little.


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## FredM

This schematic is listed for the 2920, if this is correct for your tractor, then this may help, the glow plug circuit is not shown, and also the charging circuit,(battery light) which is separate from the start circuit, do as sixbales has written, and clean earthing points and voltage supply points, the fact that the battery light works and doesn't work suggests a dirty connection somewhere, maybe the field connection on the alternator.


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## anthony lucero

sixbales said:


> Howdy Anthony,
> Intermittents are difficult to find. I have an old/small Kubota diesel tractor, that I've had a number of electrical problems with over the years with varying degrees of corrosion inside electrical connectors. I recommend that you get a spray can of electrical contact cleaner. Open your electrical connectors carefully, spray both male & female parts, put them back together and "work" them a little.


Thank you! I just purchased some I'll definitely spray them down. When I switched out the ignition the inside of the dash was very dirty it'll be good to give them all a good cleaning thank you for the tip!


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## anthony lucero

FredM said:


> View attachment 65955
> 
> This schematic is listed for the 2920, if this is correct for your tractor, then this may help, the glow plug circuit is not shown, and also the charging circuit,(battery light) which is separate from the start circuit, do as sixbales has written, and clean earthing points and voltage supply points, the fact that the battery light works and doesn't work suggests a dirty connection somewhere, maybe the field connection on the alternator.


thank you so much I am teaching myself how to read these plans I also have some work colleagues who are technicians/tractor enthusiasts. This weekend I am going to dive into it and hopefully identify/fix the issue. Thanks a ton!


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## Ben DoinIt

After re-reading your post, you sure you dont have a ground problem on your battery cable to frame connection?


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## FredM

anthony lucero said:


> thank you so much I am teaching myself how to read these plans I also have some work colleagues who are technicians/tractor enthusiasts. This weekend I am going to dive into it and hopefully identify/fix the issue. Thanks a ton!


Anthony you may want to check #7 in the schematic, called "operator's presence controller", this has lots of wiring going in and out including 5 sensors and one of those would be enough to shut your start down.


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## anthony lucero

Ben DoinIt said:


> After re-reading your post, you sure you dont have a ground problem on your battery cable to frame connection?


thank you Ben for the post. How would I be able to identify a bad ground connection on my battery? The neg cable that go to the frame of the tractor?


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## anthony lucero

FredM said:


> Anthony you may want to check #7 in the schematic, called "operator's presence controller", this has lots of wiring going in and out including 5 sensors and one of those would be enough to shut your start down.


Hey there Fred yesterday I sprayed all my connections down with some contact spray I picked up from Auto Zone. Prior to that I took the positive connection off the battery as suggested. I let everything sit overnight after spraying it down to properly dry off. I will connect everything back up once I get home fingers crossed it did the trick!


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## anthony lucero

Ben DoinIt said:


> After re-reading your post, you sure you dont have a ground problem on your battery cable to frame connection?


btw the battery is new < 2 yrs it is properly charged and is giving proper amperage. I cleaned all the contacts as well yesterday I am hoping this does the trick. One time it did this a friend who was with me said its possible I have a bad ground I will check that next if this cleaning does not work.


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


> thank you Ben for the post. How would I be able to identify a bad ground connection on my battery? The neg cable that go to the frame of the tractor?


I would pull ALL the cables, both ends, use a file to scrape ALL surfaces. *Dont use a wire brush*, it wont remove anything down to bare metal as good as a file or a grinder of some sort. 

And yes, grounding cable to the frame. Make sure you grind the area of the frame where your cable attaches to it. You need GOOD metal to metal contact.

Pertaining to your other post about the battery (< 2yrs old), i`ve seen many brand new batteries right off the shelf be bad. But as long as yours has "tested" GOOD, should be no worries there.


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


> Hey there Fred yesterday I sprayed all my connections down with some contact spray I picked up from Auto Zone. Prior to that I took the positive connection off the battery as suggested. I let everything sit overnight after spraying it down to properly dry off. I will connect everything back up once I get home fingers crossed it did the trick!


Plug them in and out several times. Sometimes this will help get a better connection. Look and feel for loose connectors too. Heat can really mess with connections. Resistance causes heat. Heat can cause a blade type connector to open up and loose a good contact.


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## Ben DoinIt

Spraying anything electrical usually dosent fix the problem. Spraying connections removes the outer most dirt and grime, but spraying cleaner does nothing to fix an already bad connection.


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## anthony lucero

Ben DoinIt said:


> Spraying anything electrical usually dosent fix the problem. Spraying connections removes the outer most dirt and grime, but spraying cleaner does nothing to fix an already bad connection.


copy that thank you Ben. How do I identify a bad ground connection with the battery?


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


> copy that thank you Ben. How do I identify a bad ground connection with the battery?


You usually dont, until you have problems. 
Then you start with the easy things first, by process of elimination.


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## anthony lucero

Ben DoinIt said:


> You usually dont, until you have problems.
> Then you start with the easy things first, by process of elimination.


Hey there Ben so it started up Saturday just fine I did some yard work for about an hour. Sunday when I put my key in the first accessory setting the battery light came up and was dimming out. It started up and I did yard work for about 2 hours and shut it down. A few hours later it would not start up - I had to knock out some other things but I will check the ground connection when I get home today. I will make sure to clean the frame good where that negative cable is going for a good metal to metal connection. I also found this online let me know your thoughts if this is accurate for troubleshooting a ground connection. Silly question - is there only one ground connection in a vehicle/ tractor? 

*Testing the Ground*
_The simplest way to check for a bad ground is to run a continuity test between the battery and the chassis. Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the probe ends of a digital multimeter -- set to read volts DC -- to the negative and positive battery terminals. Record the reading; you should get something in the neighborhood of 12.6 volts. Next, remove the DMM lead from the positive battery terminal and touch it to the terminal on the disconnected negative battery cable. Your DMM should read within about 0.5 volts of your battery with the key in the "Off" position. If you get a voltage reading of anything below 11.5 volts, start looking for a bad ground._


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


> Hey there Ben so it started up Saturday just fine I did some yard work for about an hour. Sunday when I put my key in the first accessory setting the battery light came up and was dimming out. It started up and I did yard work for about 2 hours and shut it down. A few hours later it would not start up - I had to knock out some other things but I will check the ground connection when I get home today. I will make sure to clean the frame good where that negative cable is going for a good metal to metal connection. I also found this online let me know your thoughts if this is accurate for troubleshooting a ground connection. Silly question - is there only one ground connection in a vehicle/ tractor?
> 
> *Testing the Ground*
> _The simplest way to check for a bad ground is to run a continuity test between the battery and the chassis. Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the probe ends of a digital multimeter -- set to read volts DC -- to the negative and positive battery terminals. Record the reading; you should get something in the neighborhood of 12.6 volts. Next, remove the DMM lead from the positive battery terminal and touch it to the terminal on the disconnected negative battery cable. Your DMM should read within about 0.5 volts of your battery with the key in the "Off" position. If you get a voltage reading of anything below 11.5 volts, start looking for a bad ground._


Hello Anthony,
Seems you have something going on after the tractor has been used. Something is resisting somewhere, heating up, and causing an open circuit. Though again, start with KNOWING you have good CLEAN battery connections, then go from there.

"Testing The Ground"
You can follow what they`ve said and see what you come up with. My method has always been, clean ALL connections with a knife and grinder, and if that works, i dont usually investigate any further. It most issues i`ve usually been involved with, was just bad grounding connections. Loose fuses, bad connectors and such.

Chasing electrical problems are ALWAYS a mystery. Start with the simple things first.


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


> Hey there Ben so it started up Saturday just fine I did some yard work for about an hour. Sunday when I put my key in the first accessory setting the battery light came up and was dimming out. It started up and I did yard work for about 2 hours and shut it down. A few hours later it would not start up - I had to knock out some other things but I will check the ground connection when I get home today. I will make sure to clean the frame good where that negative cable is going for a good metal to metal connection. I also found this online let me know your thoughts if this is accurate for troubleshooting a ground connection. Silly question - is there only one ground connection in a vehicle/ tractor?
> 
> *Testing the Ground*
> _The simplest way to check for a bad ground is to run a continuity test between the battery and the chassis. Disconnect the negative battery cable and connect the probe ends of a digital multimeter -- set to read volts DC -- to the negative and positive battery terminals. Record the reading; you should get something in the neighborhood of 12.6 volts. Next, remove the DMM lead from the positive battery terminal and touch it to the terminal on the disconnected negative battery cable. Your DMM should read within about 0.5 volts of your battery with the key in the "Off" position. If you get a voltage reading of anything below 11.5 volts, start looking for a bad ground._


I ran across this diagram on another forum. Not sure this will be able to show you the circuits better for you or not. Might give you a place to start looking if its more than a battery connection issue.











You may want to pull the ignition switch out, and check the bulk ignition connector inside and look for a blade connection in there that may be real loose, or maybe signs of it getting hot, those connectors can open up when resistance happens (heat makes connectors expand), then you loose a good connection.

Sometimes you can stick a tiny probe in there to tighten up a connector. Dont shove the probe into where the blade connector slides in, probe around the outside edges of the metal part of the connector to force it to be tighter when you push the bulk ignition connector back onto the key switch.

Try this to:
With the key turned on, and when the battery light is dim, or not coming on, move some wiring around on the key switch and see if anything different happens.

Is the solenoid wire and battery cable on the starter good and tight and clean?
Go to your alternator too, make sure EVERY connection is clean and tight!
Your tractor may have a starter relay installed on it, check for that.

I have a john deere that had an update for starting issues. They installed a relay for the starter.


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## Ben DoinIt




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## Ben DoinIt

Anthony,
this could possibly end up being an alternator issue too. (bad rectifier/regulator)
Could also be that you have a bad controller too... who knows without being there.

Anyway, the alternator rectifier sends voltage to a controller. So if the controller doesnt get the proper voltage it needs, then the safety switches cant get voltage to the operators control box. This controller is what sees all the signals from each "safety switch" then allows voltage from the controller to the starter solenoid.

I would still look for a starter relay in this tractor too. The relay is what sends power to the solenoid on the starter. I also think they may have a wire that comes off the relay and goes up to your battery light in the dash too. Maybe all you need is a relay to fix this tractor. Relay`s are cheap, buy one at the dealer and try it.

There is a test procedure to check this, but i cant get that for you. Maybe one of the techs who are a member here and work at a dealership can post it in here for you.

This is all i got, and its pretty hard to figure this out without being right there with you.
Hope this helps you in some way


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## anthony lucero

anthony lucero said:


> Hello everyone! Need some assistance if anyone can chime I've been having issues with my '09 Kubota B2920. long story short after plenty of troubleshooting its definitely not a safety switch.
> What I noticed on an unsuccessful start up.
> Key gets entered into the ignition
> I move the key up one setting (accessory) not sure exactly what its called on a tractor. I hear a loud CLICK and the dash lights up.
> I move the key up another setting to let the glow plug warm up
> I try to start the engine and nothing happens. No engine attempt nothing. (again, its not the clutch, safety switches, pto)
> 
> ON A SUCCESSFUL START UP.
> When the key is in the accessory setting, the dash lights up (it lights up in an unsuccessful start up as well) however the ONLY DIFFERENCE is I see the *battery light on
> *
> This is been consistent during this entire ordeal, we are talking months at this point. It will start up just fine then not work. Then work again two days later but not work again a week later.
> 
> I know whether my tractor will start up or not by one thing - if that battery light comes on on the dash during the first key turn.
> 
> So what I did was pull out the ignition switch, my friend showed me a cool trick with a paper clip to get the to the first turn without an actual key, the battery light came on in the dash so we thought it was ignition switch. I purchased a new ignition switch and it worked 5 start ups after installation then out of no where I tried to start up my tractor (battery light did not come on the dash) so I knew it sure enough my tractor didn't start. I tried again 2 hours later on off on off on off and on one of those attempts the battery light flickered then faded away.
> 
> That's all I've got can anyone please offer some insight. Again its not any of the safety switches and its not the ignition switch. That battery light (new battery btw) is the determining factor. Thank you everyone, love my Kubota B2920 and would like to get her back up and running _consistently_.



Hello everyone want to say Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!! I have been dealing with this issue for months and its been extremely frustrating even after going to the Kubota dealership I was told its probably a safety switch "_make sure to check the PTO!...or ist a bad starter."_
Thank you for all the replies and for helping me troubleshoot. I am not very mechanic savvy but I have been learning a ton. I think we are getting close to the problem thanks a ton everyone this is an awesome community.


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## anthony lucero

Ben DoinIt said:


> Anthony,
> this could possibly end up being an alternator issue too. (bad rectifier/regulator)
> Could also be that you have a bad controller too... who knows without being there.
> 
> Anyway, the alternator rectifier sends voltage to a controller. So if the controller doesnt get the proper voltage it needs, then the safety switches cant get voltage to the operators control box. This controller is what sees all the signals from each "safety switch" then allows voltage from the controller to the starter solenoid.
> 
> I would still look for a starter relay in this tractor too. The relay is what sends power to the solenoid on the starter. I also think they may have a wire that comes off the relay and goes up to your battery light in the dash too. Maybe all you need is a relay to fix this tractor. Relay`s are cheap, buy one at the dealer and try it.
> 
> There is a test procedure to check this, but i cant get that for you. Maybe one of the techs who are a member here and work at a dealership can post it in here for you.
> 
> This is all i got, and its pretty hard to figure this out without being right there with you.
> Hope this helps you in some way


Hey good morning Ben happy holidays, thanks a ton for your help - I did a poor mans job of cleaning the ground connection last week. It started up but the battery signal faded a little on me I let it run for about 15 (I wanted to test the heat theory) and it started up again after so I don't think I let it run enough. 

I didn't have much time to mess around with it we had a minor storm here, but yesterday I used my grinder to clean where my ground connection is and got a new bolt washer lock from HD. The battery light did not come on the first attempt but the second attempt (in the first accessory) it came on. _So I ruled out a bad ground connection._ 

I did some work around the house moved some wood for about an hour and after I parked and cut off it would *not *start back up. So you were correct about the heat theory. I followed the next step you advised I put the key in the first accessory (no battery on the dash) I opened up the console and started moving some wires around and *I think I found the culprit!
*
After I pulled these wires I about to upload the battery light would come on. I toggled it back and forth and watched the battery light on the dash come on and off on and off. I about going to upload some pictures can you tell me what these wires are and what the next step it. This seems to be the problem. They all come together in that wrap and go to the starter. LMK what you think and thanks a ton!


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


> Hey good morning Ben happy holidays, thanks a ton for your help - I did a poor mans job of cleaning the ground connection last week. It started up but the battery signal faded a little on me I let it run for about 15 (I wanted to test the heat theory) and it started up again after so I don't think I let it run enough.
> 
> I didn't have much time to mess around with it we had a minor storm here, but yesterday I used my grinder to clean where my ground connection is and got a new bolt washer lock from HD. The battery light did not come on the first attempt but the second attempt (in the first accessory) it came on. _So I ruled out a bad ground connection._
> 
> I did some work around the house moved some wood for about an hour and after I parked and cut off it would *not *start back up. So you were correct about the heat theory. I followed the next step you advised I put the key in the first accessory (no battery on the dash) I opened up the console and started moving some wires around and *I think I found the culprit!
> *
> After I pulled these wires I about to upload the battery light would come on. I toggled it back and forth and watched the battery light on the dash come on and off on and off. I about going to upload some pictures can you tell me what these wires are and what the next step it. This seems to be the problem. They all come together in that wrap and go to the starter. LMK what you think and thanks a ton!


Its usually a bad connector/connection that ends up being a problem. Once a connector starts to heat up from resistance, the connector starts opening up and loosing a good tight connection. I always clean, charge my battery, clean posts, and cables first. You have to make sure you have good voltage before going further. Then if that dosent fix it, i start wiggling wires and connectors. That will usually tattle tail on itself if there is a bad connector/connection.

Then if you dont find anything there, then you start looking into the fuses making sure the fuse sockets arent loose or worn and not holding the fuse tight. Look into the relays & sensors next. Hopefully all you have is just a bad connector. Thats an easy fix. I hope thats all it is for your sake. This would be a good time to go thru ALL the connectors everywhere on your tractor. Make sure they are tight, and not loose or corroded.

If you find connectors or connections that are very dark in color, and/or seeing green powdery looking junk, thats corrosion. It WILL become a problem if it isnt already.


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## anthony lucero

Ben DoinIt said:


> Anthony,
> this could possibly end up being an alternator issue too. (bad rectifier/regulator)
> Could also be that you have a bad controller too... who knows without being there.
> 
> Anyway, the alternator rectifier sends voltage to a controller. So if the controller doesnt get the proper voltage it needs, then the safety switches cant get voltage to the operators control box. This controller is what sees all the signals from each "safety switch" then allows voltage from the controller to the starter solenoid.
> 
> I would still look for a starter relay in this tractor too. The relay is what sends power to the solenoid on the starter. I also think they may have a wire that comes off the relay and goes up to your battery light in the dash too. Maybe all you need is a relay to fix this tractor. Relay`s are cheap, buy one at the dealer and try it.
> 
> There is a test procedure to check this, but i cant get that for you. Maybe one of the techs who are a member here and work at a dealership can post it in here for you.
> 
> This is all i got, and its pretty hard to figure this out without being right there with you.
> Hope this helps you in some way


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


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WHOOPS, i see the problem! Need more chickens!!!!


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


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I guarantee you are going to find ALOT of problems in all that dirty wiring. Water will always find its way into connectors and start corroding.


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## kumike

Here's my 2 cents - most of this has been suggested - I have a B2100 that gave me fits.

Check here - https://kubota.mikeski.net/article/kubota-b2100-starting-problems/ and have a look at the picture of the aftermarket relay that somebody added to my tractor that was rusted all to hell and causing problems.

One way I check the ground is hook up a jumper cable (single wire only) from the ground terminal on the battery to somewhere on the tractor that will give you a good ground. The "guts" of the ground cable can be bad and/or disintegrated even if you clean up the connections to be brand new. This will help rule that out. 

The other thing you can do is hook the jumper cable from the battery to the hot terminal on your starter (e.g. bypass everything between the battery and the starter) because one of those cables could have the same problem (be broken somewhere in the middle).


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## anthony lucero

kumike said:


> Here's my 2 cents - most of this has been suggested - I have a B2100 that gave me fits.
> 
> Check here - https://kubota.mikeski.net/article/kubota-b2100-starting-problems/ and have a look at the picture of the aftermarket relay that somebody added to my tractor that was rusted all to hell and causing problems.
> 
> One way I check the ground is hook up a jumper cable (single wire only) from the ground terminal on the battery to somewhere on the tractor that will give you a good ground. The "guts" of the ground cable can be bad and/or disintegrated even if you clean up the connections to be brand new. This will help rule that out.
> 
> The other thing you can do is hook the jumper cable from the battery to the hot terminal on your starter (e.g. bypass everything between the battery and the starter) because one of those cables could have the same problem (be broken somewhere in the middle).


The picture with the highlighted 4 piece wiring Red/White/White/Black - are you able to tell me what that is? I believe that's the problem wire its the piece I was toggling that was flickering the battery light on/off

it says CA1a-12V-A-5
ACA12115 M05
81222


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## thepumpguysc

Have u tried bumping the throttle up to about 1/2 or higher.
THAT normally takes care of it, 
IF the glow plugs have been checked and are ALL working..


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## kumike

Hi Anthony - there are 3 components here:

* Top-right - sliver housing with blue wire above teh red and another terminal with the white wire - This is the starter soleniod, with the red wire being direct from the battery and the blue wire being the starter switch wire
* The pink thing in the middle-left by the wire tie (a fuse)
* The small black thing at the bottom-left (a relay)

Which do you mean?


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## FredM

Is this the relay you mentioned with red/white/white/black wiring?, then have a look at this web site and see if this relay matches yours.

https://www.digikey.com.au/product-...ectric-works/CA1A-12V-A-5/255-5272-ND/4692187

what you are holding in your hand is a relay and if it has a brand name, then use google to search for one or try the dealers.


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## anthony lucero

FredM said:


> View attachment 66719
> 
> Is this the relay you mentioned with red/white/white/black wiring?, then have a look at this web site and see if this relay matches yours.
> 
> https://www.digikey.com.au/product-...ectric-works/CA1A-12V-A-5/255-5272-ND/4692187
> 
> what you are holding in your hand is a relay and if it has a brand name, then use google to search for one or try the dealers.


thank you Fred looks like a match, I am going to mess with it some more this weekend I'm convinced if I swap that out with the wiring it'll fix the issue but I'm not that mechanically savvy one of my work colleagues is coming by to take a look. Will keep you posted thanks again!


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## anthony lucero

kumike said:


> Hi Anthony - there are 3 components here:
> 
> * Top-right - sliver housing with blue wire above teh red and another terminal with the white wire - This is the starter soleniod, with the red wire being direct from the battery and the blue wire being the starter switch wire
> * The pink thing in the middle-left by the wire tie (a fuse)
> * The small black thing at the bottom-left (a relay)
> 
> Which do you mean?
> 
> 
> View attachment 66707


it's difficult to tell from this photo - its the 4 wire piece if my one picture the one I'm holding Red white black white.


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## anthony lucero

Ben DoinIt said:


> WHOOPS, i see the problem! Need more chickens!!!!



best eggs in virginia


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## FredM

That relay is most likely the cause of your problem, I have had the same starting problem with my B2400 and by chance I noticed a relay bolted to the block near the alternator with the same 4 wire plug as yours, I removed it and pushed it back into the spades and the tractor started with key, check the contacts of the connector and the spades in the relay, if that don't fix your problem, then a new relay may be needed.


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## anthony lucero

Good morning everyone! Great news we were able to identify the issue that was causing my intermittent starting issues. On my original post I now realize how I missed out on an important detail. I am the third owner of my '09 B2920 - its in great shape and had only 200 hours on it.. The owner I purchased it from says it was garage kept most of the time.

When I swapped out the ignition switch (when I thought this was the main issue) when I took the top dash off I was able to fill two grocery bags of what looks like was a mouse nest. Also had that nasty smell.. So I got all the nest out cleaned up vacuumed in there and sprayed down what I could. 

Fast forward to this past weekend I showed my work colleague Mr. Kondas where and what I thought the issue was. He did some more digging and was able to identify another part that was causing the issue - I believe he said its a voltage regulator (he's n ot in atm). It was bolted to another piece that we took out. When we squeezed this vr the battery light would come on. You let go the battery light would disappear. He thinks when it heats up running the rubber around is expanding which is why it would never start up again on the second attempt. Mr. Kondas seems to think the mice chewed up a couple things and loosened up some wires. 

So we took two zip ties and a small shim to place on the back to keep a nice tight fit. That battery has been showing up ever since I put it to the test over the weekend did a solid hours worth of work moving wood shut it down and great news it started right back up. I tried again and a third time it worked! So it seems like the problem solved! I have pictures of the part I want to see how much it is at the local Kubota dealership or if you guys can direct me where I can purchase one if ever needed to replace - but like I said everything is now working! Thank you so much everyone for assisting with this. Like I said in another post I was ready to throw in the towel was feeling really defeated then thought maybe if I post on this site I'll get a comment or two. This is an awesome community thanks again everyone!!!! cheers and happy new year.


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## Cvans

First stop would be the Kubota dealer to at least find out availability and price.
Congratulations on figuring out the problem.


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## FredM

That part is called a "heat sink", it is a voltage regulator but works by converting excess voltage to heat which then dissipates through the fins, if the sealant in the back is softening, then it may be on the way out.

Great you have found a fix.


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


> Good morning everyone! Great news we were able to identify the issue that was causing my intermittent starting issues. On my original post I now realize how I missed out on an important detail. I am the third owner of my '09 B2920 - its in great shape and had only 200 hours on it.. The owner I purchased it from says it was garage kept most of the time.
> 
> When I swapped out the ignition switch (when I thought this was the main issue) when I took the top dash off I was able to fill two grocery bags of what looks like was a mouse nest. Also had that nasty smell.. So I got all the nest out cleaned up vacuumed in there and sprayed down what I could.
> 
> Fast forward to this past weekend I showed my work colleague Mr. Kondas where and what I thought the issue was. He did some more digging and was able to identify another part that was causing the issue - I believe he said its a voltage regulator (he's n ot in atm). It was bolted to another piece that we took out. When we squeezed this vr the battery light would come on. You let go the battery light would disappear. He thinks when it heats up running the rubber around is expanding which is why it would never start up again on the second attempt. Mr. Kondas seems to think the mice chewed up a couple things and loosened up some wires.
> 
> So we took two zip ties and a small shim to place on the back to keep a nice tight fit. That battery has been showing up ever since I put it to the test over the weekend did a solid hours worth of work moving wood shut it down and great news it started right back up. I tried again and a third time it worked! So it seems like the problem solved! I have pictures of the part I want to see how much it is at the local Kubota dealership or if you guys can direct me where I can purchase one if ever needed to replace - but like I said everything is now working! Thank you so much everyone for assisting with this. Like I said in another post I was ready to throw in the towel was feeling really defeated then thought maybe if I post on this site I'll get a comment or two. This is an awesome community thanks again everyone!!!! cheers and happy new year.
> 
> View attachment 67301
> View attachment 67303
> View attachment 67305


Electrical is never fun, especially if you dont know where to begin. Glad you found the problem.
I do believe i mentioned to look for a connector/connection issue.


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## anthony lucero

Ben DoinIt said:


> Electrical is never fun, especially if you dont know where to begin. Glad you found the problem.
> I do believe i mentioned to look for a connector/connection issue.


you definitely did! thanks again - Ben I was looking into some light modifications can you point me in the right direction in this forum? Do you have any recommendations on products? The wiring seems simple enough I want to add a LED bar or two spot lights. lmk what you think -thank you boss!


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## Ben DoinIt

anthony lucero said:


> you definitely did! thanks again - Ben I was looking into some light modifications can you point me in the right direction in this forum? Do you have any recommendations on products? The wiring seems simple enough I want to add a LED bar or two spot lights. lmk what you think -thank you boss!



I`m kinda still new here, so maybe try typing in the search part of the forum and see what pops up. And some other good folks here may be able to help you more than i can when researching lighting.

As for my lights, i mounted a large LED light bar to the under side of my ROPS, and added a rear LED work light. I used large round magnets to mount all my AUX LED lights`s because i didnt want to drill the ROPS, and i wanted to be able to keep it movable. I didnt want a bunch of brackets bolted to it either. Magnets were my best option for my use. In the summertime, all the lights come off and get stored for the summer. Best MOD i could have ever done to our tractor was adding the lights for plowing snow in the winter. We dont use the tractor in the dark during summertime. Whatever lighting i need, the factory headlights are plenty enough.

I mounted the power switch to it in the left side of my dash. I didn`t wire it to the key switch because i wanted to be able to just flip the light switch and use the lights without turning on the ignition. My LED`s are wired directly to the battery. Its all fused and i put a relay inline. The light bar i bought at walmart. The small work light i bought at harbor freight. I also bought the large magnets at habor freight too.

I think i`ve got somewhere in the neighborhood of $150 in everything. The lightbar came with a full wiring harness to hook it up. I did have to buy the switch though because i didnt like the switch that came with the lightbar. I bought the light switch at tractor supply.

I have a 12in magnetic mounted strobe light that i use for snow plowing on the top of the ROPS.

Bought this strobe light on Amazon $40 bucks










Got this at walmart (dont remember what i paid, but it was cheap, and works well!)









Got this light at harbor freight (3in, and plenty of rearward lighting)










I bought the 3 inch magnets at harbor freight


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## TX MX5200

Post some pics of them installed when able. I too do not operate at night often, but nice to know I can with lights I added. 

I had some extra HD brackets that came with the top I got so I used them for my LEDs. I also wired direct to battery and fused each. I mounted the switches on steel plate next to pro controller.


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## great4me

Wow only 228 hours. I thought it looked a little rough in there for only 228 hrs, I've got the B2920 too 2009 too. I love it and have never left it outside. I have 1100 hrs on it and never a problem. Hope your good to go for years to come //


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## rabt Farm

Hi all, new to this forum. I own a couple Deere 955's for haying and a Kubota GR 2110 for mowing. Now my neighbor has a Kubota B2920 and reported that she could not start it. I replaced the blown 5 amp fuse with the only available 10amp, retightened the positive battery terminal and it started fine. Question: would the loose battery connection cause the 5 amp fuse to blow? What should I be looking for after that? Wires rubbed raw on the motor? Should it not be run with the 10 amp fuse in place of the 5 amp? TIA in advance! George


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## SidecarFlip

I'd replace the 10 with the required 5 myself.


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## unsquidly

rabt Farm said:


> Hi all, new to this forum. I own a couple Deere 955's for haying and a Kubota GR 2110 for mowing. Now my neighbor has a Kubota B2920 and reported that she could not start it. I replaced the blown 5 amp fuse with the only available 10amp, retightened the positive battery terminal and it started fine. Question: would the loose battery connection cause the 5 amp fuse to blow? What should I be looking for after that? Wires rubbed raw on the motor? Should it not be run with the 10 amp fuse in place of the 5 amp? TIA in advance! George



If she has the manual for that tractor, look up and see what fuse size is supposed to be in there and replace it whit that size.....My guess is that the fuse blew due to a short to ground somewhere in the starter circuit.......

Welcome to the forum by the way...


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## SidecarFlip

If she don't, she can download it in PDF format at www.kubotabooks.com


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