# Cub Cadet Wont Start



## smcn1984 (Aug 16, 2021)

Original and descriptive title, right!? Here's the specifics:

2018 Cub Cadet XT1. Ran perfect after last use, put away in my shed, and wont start the next time around. Started with most logical problem children; replaced the starter solenoid and charged battery (battery was fine but wanted to make sure). Still wont start. Direct jump the starter using jumper cables and it fires right up. Brake works, brake censor and seat censor appear to work (allowing me to put parking brake on while running and get off seat), PTO engages and disengages just fine. I took it for a spin, shut it off and attempted to restart and all I can hear is a few clicks coming from behind the push-button ignition switch. Before I replace the $175 module, anyone got any recommendations on something I could be missing? Thanks in advance!


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy smcn1984, welcome.

Most likely a safety switch problem. Try jumpering each safety switch connector, one at a time and check results. Some guys use a paper clip for a jumper wire. If you have clip leads, they work well also.


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## smcn1984 (Aug 16, 2021)

BigT said:


> Howdy smcn1984, welcome.
> 
> Most likely a safety switch problem. Try jumpering each safety switch connector, one at a time and check results. Some guys use a paper clip for a jumper wire. If you have clip leads, they work well also.


Thanks BigT. Would a safety switch still allow full functionality after I’ve jumped it? My assumption was if the brake or seat safety switch was going out, it would give be problems while I was operating it too.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I'm thinking that if you jumper the switches, one at a time, you'll figure out which switch may be giving you trouble. Then for safety reason, replace the switch. 
Also it would be a great idea to clean, sand, file or whatever, the battery cable contacts at the battery and the starter aa well as the ground. They may seem tight and prefect, but they will make you crazy if they are not good!


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## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

This seems the main point: "Direct jump the starter using jumper cables and it fires right up."
If you jumped across starter solenoid (big terminals one to battery, other to starter motor) and it fires right up, I would use a voltmeter or test light.
If you get power to small solenoid wire with key in crank position...replace the solenoid.
If no power, you'd need a wiring diagram, maybe it's ignition switch or whatever is there to solenoid. 

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

smcn1984 said:


> Thanks BigT. Would a safety switch still allow full functionality after I’ve jumped it? My assumption was if the brake or seat safety switch was going out, it would give be problems while I was operating it too.


There are to different sides of the Safety Circuits. (1) Kills a *running engine* if certain conditions occur by grounding the magneto... Seat is unoccupied, brakes are released, PTO is engaged, reverse over-ride(if equipped). (2) *Keeps** from cranking* if certain conditions aren't meet.... Brake Applied (Brake Switch), PTO off (PTO switch), transmission in neutral (Reverse switch on a hydo-drive). The only time a seat switch is part of the "Crank Circuit" is if it is a 4-terminal seat switch (Most aren't).

Your starter relay should have 4-post. Two big battery cable terminals --- Two smaller spade terminals. One of those smaller terminal wires is the 12.5VDC crank signal coming from the key switch in the spring-loaded start position. The other is the ground terminal for the starter relay(It doesn't ground through the legs like a 3-post). That ground path runs through the "Crank Safety Switches ( brake, PTO, neutral/reverse). In other words, all three of those switches have to be CLOSED in order for the starter relay to acquire a ground to engage the starter. If you take that ground side wire off and run a jumper wire from that starter relay ground terminal to the battery ground terminal, all safety circuits are by-passed, and it should crank. That means key is good, relay is good, starter is good... Problem is one of the safety switches is OPEN

You can either leave that jumper in place (NO CRANK SAFETY), or you can plug that wire back in an start tracing back through the safety switches using a DVOM on continuity to ground to see where your loosing the connection to ground for the starter relay.

The term "starter relay" indicates a remote mounted purely magnetic relay(either 3-terminal or 4-terminal). A "starter solenoid" is an electro/mechanical device that is actually built into the starter (it's crank safety circuit is wired completely different). That is the distinction between the terms they teach at Kohler Service School. 

Uses remote magnetic "Starter Relay"









"Starter Solenoid" equipped, no magnetic relay necessary


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