# Putting Fluid into Tires?



## PointBlank

I have been reading people suggest putting wiper fluid,etc into their tires for better traction.How is this done,and is it worth doing? I mainly use my 42" for mowing but occasionly haul stuff in the cart.Sometimes if the grass has dew or going up inclines my tires just spin.

Don't the fluid just slosh around? Would something be better? The wheel weights i read about would they be better?

Last (i promise),if wheel weights would be better would i get fronts or rears and does tractor supply carry them?

Sorry for all the questions,thx fer any help!


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## jhngardner367

There are fluids for the tires,which is put in through the valve stem.However,it is expensive,and usually fluids, such as wiper fluid,will damage the tire.Wheel weights are the best option,and ,yes,TSC sells them.Another thing is to see if you can go to a more agressive tread style.The wheel weights,by the way are for the rear tires.


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## LostValley

The fluids can also be explosive when removing tire from rim. I've tried various commercial mixes and not had any luck at sealing. On the other hand railroad tie spikes make a heck of large hole in tires. If you are mainly contemplating fluid for weight try water first. Rears only and fill them about 3/4 so flex will still occur or they'll blow up when too much weight is grabbed. To repeat, REAR only, never fronts. Many years of trying different things and best bet is go with manufacturers engineered offerings. They generally know stress/break points and don't send you beyond them.


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## wjjones

I tried the Carlisle super lugs, and they have great traction for yard work of any kind. I run them with just air, and no weights..


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## dangeroustoys56

Water would only work in the summer- theyd freeze solid in the winter - id use a antifreeze mix if its used in winter - you might save alot of trouble by installing tubes and just filling the tubes, rims wont rot or leak.

You fill them by jacking up the rear of the tractor ( wheels off ground but on stands so wont fall off) - turing the valve stem up to the top and fill the wheels- air pressure would have to make up the difference.

My dads '45 farmall uses a liquid sodium mix - nasty stuff! You dont really notice any sloshing of the liquid in the wheels.


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## Mickey

wjjones said:


> I tried the Carlisle super lugs, and they have great traction for yard work of any kind. I run them with just air, and no weights..


In agreement here if the mower in question has the typ lawn tires on it. Get something with a little more open, aggressive, tread.

My old Bolens has reg farm lug rear tires. Over the yrs it has pulled a lot of stuff, some fairly pretty heavy for the machine and have never had to give any thought about filling the rear tires or use weights.

If you do try filling, do use an inner tube, then you'll not have any worry about corrosion regardless of what you use..


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## Gibby

I've used windshield washer fluid for about 10 years with no signs of corrosion or winter freezing(it's rated to I believe -20`) Fluid filled tires give superior traction to wheel weights pound for pound, there's physics behind it that I don't understand and can't explain, but I can tell you about the results. Aside from improved traction, filled tires give a better ride. In a 23x10.50-12 tire, you can get around 8 gallons of fluid. Water weighs 8.34lbs per gallon and washer fluid is very close to that. Roughly 64lbs per tire. I personally run fluid and weights on my snow removal machines, but all my tractors have filled tires. Many manufacturers make front wheel weights, but they are a rare find. There's a set of John Deere front wheel weights on ebay(ending soon if not already) for $200. I've never found a need for front weights myself. To fill tires, TSC sells an adapter that connects to your valve stem, just attach to a piece of garden hose, stick a funnel in the other end and pour your fluid in.

If you are talking about a lawn tractor, I don't know if I would add much weight either wheel weights or filled tires. The trans axles on lawn tractors are much lighter duty compared to a garden tractor and the weight can shorten the life of a lawn tractor. In this application, you may be better off just finding a tire with a more aggressive tread design, or maybe tire chains.


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## farmertim

If filling the tyre with fluid, Here is some instruction thanks to Gemplers.

1. Removing Fluid
Rotate tire so valve stem is at bottom. Loosen core housing and retighten. Remove rim nut from valve stem. Thread end of core ejection tool on rim nut threads and tighten push rod assembly in until it fits tight over the core housing. Turn counterclockwise to remove core housing.
After core housing is removed, turn pump control lever to evacuate. This will pull fluid from tire and pump it into a barrel or container. After fluid is removed from tube, tire can be removed for repair.
Diaphragm Liquid Ballast Pump
Includes 10-ft. supply hose and 15-ft. fill/evacuation hose
Switching control valve for easy reversal of liquid transfer
Pressure guage
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2. Filling Tire with Fluid
Turn tire and rim so valve is on top. Remove rim nut from valve stem. Thread end of core ejection tool on rim nut threads and tighten. Push the rod assembly in until it fits tight over core housing. Turn counterclockwise to remove core housing. This will bleed air back through to container.
When air is out of the tire, turn pump control lever to fill. As tire is being filled, pressure will build inside. When the tire is approximately 1/2 full, turn control lever to evacuate and this will force air pressure from tire to storage container. When pressure has been released, turn control lever to fill and fill tire to valve level (75%). DO NOT fill tire completely.
After fluid in tire is valve level, stop pump and turn core tool clockwise pushing forward to thread core housing in tube stem. Turn control level on pump to evacuate to release any pressure. Pull back on plunger rod (core ejection tool); this will release core housing. Remove core ejection tool. Check air pressure with air/liquid gauge (Item No. 8D) and set to manufacturer's specifications. Install rim nut and valve cap.
Air/Liquid Tire Gauge
Calibrated in 1-lb. increments
5 - 45 p.s.i.
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3. Calcium Chloride (CACL2)
Calcium chloride is a salt mixture to add to water when filling tires with liquid. This mixture will keep the water from freezing in cold climates. Check the liquid ballast chart for your tire size.
EXAMPLE - 11.2x38 on 10"-wide rim
Water only will freeze at 32°F and add a weight of 300 lbs.
109 lbs. of 77% calcium chloride salt flake (Type 1) and 31 gallons of water will freeze at -12°F and add a weight of 368 lbs.
145 lbs. of 77% calcium chloride salt flake (Type 1) and 29 gallons of water will freeze at -50°F and add a weight of 387 lbs.
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4. Mixing Calcium Chloride
Mix calcium chloride and water in a tub or barrel (plastic works best). Fill container about half full of water and add calcium chloride flakes. Stir immediately or flakes will clump and harden. After all flakes are dissolved in water, add rest of water per mixture and stir.
50 lb. bag Calcium Chloride
77% test CaCl2 salt flakes
Can also be used to melt snow
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Fluid filled tyres are safer to work with than just air filled tyres because compressed air has much more stored energy than water, there is less potential for injury if the tyre explodes because there is less cubic feet of air in the tyre.
Cheers


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## LostValley

Never thought of that living in temperate clime.


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## hackware

*fluid in tires...*

the reason fluid in tires creates more traction than wheel weights on a pound for pound basis, is that the fluid is centered within the wheel/tire itself, so the weight is directly over the "traction footprint"...

the fluid itself, can be anything which will avoid damage to tires, tubes, valves, and/or wheels...

main things to avoid are alcohol/methanol additives in some products...

be aware glycol spills can kill your animals...!

william...


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## rocket

hackware said:


> is that the fluid is centered within the wheel/tire itself, so the weight is directly over the "traction footprint"...


Not from what I've read elsewhere. Fluid sloshes around, and at speed may actually go right around. Wheel weights are consistently over the centre of the axle.

And I guess you only need to add weights/fluid to the front wheels if you've got good grippy rear tyres.

I know my tractor has water in all wheels from the day I got it. I've never run it without water, so I don't know how it would go without the extra weight. And my tractor doesn't ever go fast, so speed isn't really an issue for me.

If you only ever use implements that use the top link and are ground based, then you won't generally get air under the front wheels. But if you use implements that have air under them, eg carry alls, or towing trailers, then yes, there is a chance of getting air under the front wheels, so extra weight up front can be advantageous.

Cheers.


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## hackware

rocket said:


> Not from what I've read elsewhere. Fluid sloshes around, and at speed may actually go right around. Wheel weights are consistently over the centre of the axle.


fluid will slosh around only if lotz of air is left in the tire (not recommended...)...
(leaving too much air in tire can cause "foaming" and hydraulic creasing of tire sidewalls (not good))...

also, fluid is directly over the traction footprint, which is impossible for wheel weights, which as a minimum are around the axle (versus next to tread), and most wheel weights are NOT centered over the traction footprint (instead they are offset from tread center-line to the "outside" of the hub...)...

william...


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## rocket

hackware said:


> which is impossible for wheel weights, which as a minimum are around the axle (versus next to tread), and most wheel weights are NOT centered over the traction footprint (instead they are offset from tread center-line to the "outside" of the hub...)...
> 
> william...


If you are sideways on a hill, which you shouldn't be doing anyway, or even facing up/down a hill, then yes, the centre of gravity of wheel weights are not directly over the contact patch. But the weight of the wheel weights ARE going through the contact patch, as there is no other way for the weight to get to the ground otherwise. And with wheel weights, the centre of gravity isn't sloshing around.

Cheers


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## chkntrktr

With wheel weights around half of the weight is always above the axle, with fluid most of the weight is below the axle. The important thing is any weight helps. I recently added wheel weights and Tru-Powers to my GT 6000 and what a difference it made. I hope to add Rim-Guard to the tires soon. It is supposed to be a little heavier than other products, and it is made out of beet juice so it is not harmful to animals or caustic to the rims. The only trouble is finding a dealer. We have one about 30 miles away. On their website it lists dealers.


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