# old barn needs sill/foundation repair



## rainwatc (Feb 4, 2015)

We bought a house 6 months ago that has this old barn that we want to repair and use. Part of the foundation is leaning and sills are rotten. It looks like some type of mortar was put on top of the concrete block before the wood sill was placed. So couple of questions what type of material could that have been and what was the purpose? Advise on repair approach of the leaning foundation would be appreciated.. some pics attached


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## ben70b (Aug 29, 2012)

That's a cool old barn. I see you have a beam at the top of the wall just under the ceiling joists. I would shore up the ceiling joists and remove everything below that beam. Then maybe install laminated treated 6x6s every 6' under that beam. You can dig post holes down below frost level, pour a couple bags of concrete in each hole, then when it dries cut each post to go from the top of that concrete to the bottom of that beam. Lastly backfilling the holes with the dirt. Usually you can find 12" round by 8" thick concrete pads at a lumber yard. Instead of mixing concrete you can tamp the dirt in the bottom of the hole and pitch one of those pads down each hole and set the post on it. I like this method the best. Another option would be to dig a ditch directly under the beam down below frost, pour an 8" thick footing, then build a block wall on it or form and pour an 8" thick wall. Either way the wall should be above dirt grade then post or 2x6 stud framing from top of masonry to the beam or ceiling joist. If you are going to use the loft for hay or something don't be afraid to over build it a bit. If you intend to use the barn for livestock I would encourage you to use the concrete wall method and bring the wall maybe 3 or 4 feet out of the ground. This will help with manure containment and solve future rot problems. Also livestock tends to push on walls. I hope this makes sense. Sometimes stuff makes sense in my head but I have trouble explaining.
























i love working on old barns, here is a few pics of one I worked on for a guy last summer. There was a concrete wall foundation stick out of the ground about a foot, every thing above it to the beam was blown out and rotted. I jacked it up to level, removed all the wood. Drilled down into the top of the concrete wall and apoxied verticle rebar every 2 foot then tied a double rebar mat for the new wall, then I set forms for a 10" thick by 4 foot high wall, poured it and rebuilt from it on up to the beam. Everyone thinks it turned out well. Seems to me someone else that hangs around this forum has been working on an old barn but I can't remember who. 


Would you rather pay a buck for a burger or eat a free sh!t sandwich?


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## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

ben has pretty much covered everything. Another piece of advice would be, Whichever method you use for the concrete pour, If you want to install a sill board, Use "PT" lumber. As ben mentioned, Your concrete wall or footer "MUST" be above grade level!!! Sometimes it's a lot more work depending on the soil type however, Take the time to do it right the first time...

Also, As ben mentioned "below frost", You must dig the holes or footers below the frost line. If not, Frost jacking will eventually destroy all of your efforts. Another thing if digging a footer rather than a "Post hole", Be sure the walls of the footer are "True" straight down. I have seen footers dug at an angle and there again, Frost jacking will get you. You want a straight, walled footer, No wedge shape!

Take your time and your efforts will be well rewarded! Love hearing folks wanting to save the old barns!!!!!!!!!!!


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## rainwatc (Feb 4, 2015)

*barn looking more restoration than repair approach..*

thanks for the info on the work, I was not aware of the "frost jacking effect".. We want to do more restoration so the walls, foundation looks the same throughout. The right side of the barn is in good shape (foundation wise), so we want to keep with the concrete block method. We're in GA so I don't think we have a very deep frost line.. We don't have livestock but will be using the barn (left side) I want a workwork shop since it is much bigger than the right. The right side will be used mostly for storage, one room on the right has flooring and looked to be an old tack room, that's also where the stairs are to the loft.. But here's a couple more pics.. Any additional comments appreciated.


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

Do it once, do it right but do it soon! that barn has character! I love it!


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## ben70b (Aug 29, 2012)

Block it is then! How deep do they bury water lines there? That elevation would be good for top of concrete footing. Those look like 8" block so your footing would want to be 16" wide and 8" thick with two courses of #4 rebar. Then start laying your 8" wide block wall on top of the footing. I would build your block wall high enuf to get your self a foot out of the ground then start with your wood from there. General rule of thumb is any wood in contact with masonry should be green pressure treated but if you are gonna do a strict restoration you may wanna find a saw mill and head for the woods! 


Would you rather pay a buck for a burger or eat a free sh!t sandwich?


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## all_wet (Mar 4, 2015)

ben - nice pictures on your project. how did you jack up the wall? any tips on that (i have an 100 yr old hip roofed barn with the west-end sags - sill is rotten and foundation crumbling - looking to copy rain and initiate a project as soon as the snow clears...)


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## ben70b (Aug 29, 2012)

Bottle jacks and 4x4s


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

I was in the welding shop today for a short time. The floor has raised and cracked in 'new' places. The cold has been brutal again this year.
This is not the new floor we just poured. This is the floor that was put in about 35 years ago! 'Frost jack' done got me! I hope it goes back down when the ground thaws.
Our cold has not been as deep as last year, but it stuck around longer...


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

After looking at it, it seems that it was just some left overs from another job that got used up there. 
I'm not above ripping that part out and pouring fresh this summer.
The parts that I had poured way back in '07' are fine. It's the stuff between the outside world and the shop that blew up.


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