# Please help translate British made Ford tractor codes



## Donald A.

Help!

I have found some more numbers on my used Ford 420. It just adds to the mystery. Can someone help me figure out what I have?

Here are the previous numbers I found on the flat portion behind the starter on the right side.

B886256
OE26
D1014C

The new information I have is numbers embossed on the flat engine rail under the oil dipstick. It reads like this....

*K418092* AA
6507 3J6

What does all of that mean??

Thank you and God bless


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## Guest

B886256
OE26
D1014C
The following info is extracted from http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/codes_short2.html
B Factory code "B" is Basildon, England
886256 actual serial number assigned as it rolled off the assembly line (these were assigned sequentially
to tractors as they rolled off the assembly line regardless of model) (this is a higher number than
would have been appropriate in 1970, more like 1980 unless the English built had a different
serial number sequence)
0 I think this is a zero vice a letter "O" If so, Built in 1970
E Built in May
26 Built on the 26th
* (should be a letter here. Either A, B, or C here to indicate shift built I understand this was sometimes omitted)
D Model 4000 (this series was built 1965 to 1974)
10 Style Agriculture all purpose (an industrial should be a 50)
14 "1" is fuel type diesel: "4" is Independent 540 rpm PTO
C is 8 speed transmission (this is 4 forward with a secondary hi/lo range shifter)
You might try contacting "[email protected]"
One of the members on the forum mentioned that the rearend section appers to be definately an industrial heavy
assembly (at least as far as the wheel/axle assembly goes). TractorData does not list a 420 as a ford model, but
If you do a search for "ford tractor 420" on www, you will find tractorData has the 420 as being built between
1975 and 1978 only. This of course does not jive with the data found on the top of the implement attachment 
point behind the starter. So perhaps the English ID's use different codes OR someone could have changed out the
clutch housing at some point in the life of the tractor. You also mentioned at some point that one axle is yellow and
one is blue. Another changeout?
Now don't take offense, but I wonder if this tractor was put together by a dismantling yard or equivalent as a means
of making more profit from the tractors that came in broken down. I knew a man in the 60's that when business was
slow, would take VWs that had front end damage on 1 and rear end damage on another and cut them both in half,
weld the floor pan and body together, paint er up and sell it.
I don't know if any of this info is of use for you, but realizing the pickle you are in, I'm trying to help.


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## Guest

I found some information on www that the loader may be a 735.


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## Guest

The "K" prefix on your engine serial I believe is meaning Industrial. I am not able to find any additional information on that data plate, although I'm pretty sure the data sets all mean something.


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## Donald A.

Update....

I found more numbers/letters.

On the opposite side of the bell housing, on the tractors left side there is an identical flat surface as the one on the right side behind the starter. There are two lines......

OD24B
A670 8

My head is spinning from all of these numbers.

Help!


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## Guest

Donald: It's a pretty sure thing that this section of the tractor is not original. Having said that, I have no clue to what those additional numbers mean. Have you tried talking to Tractorhouse, All States Ag Equipment, Yesterdays Tractors, Steiners, Arthurs tractors? Any of those may have reference material that may help with those additional numbers, the engine serial numbers, the loader id. It would sure be nice to know what info the engine numbers can give as the 420 shows different ci engine than the 4000.
Question: is your transmission as described (4 fwd with a hi/lo stick)in the id info I and others have supplied you?


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## Donald A.

Graysonr said:


> Donald: It's a pretty sure thing that this section of the tractor is not original. Having said that, I have no clue to what those additional numbers mean. Have you tried talking to Tractorhouse, All States Ag Equipment, Yesterdays Tractors, Steiners, Arthurs tractors? Any of those may have reference material that may help with those additional numbers, the engine serial numbers, the loader id. It would sure be nice to know what info the engine numbers can give as the 420 shows different ci engine than the 4000.
> Question: is your transmission as described (4 fwd with a hi/lo stick)in the id info I and others have supplied you?


It does have 8 gears forward, 2 gears back.
Here is a diagram.

1. 2. 4. 1st multiplier
| | | |
| | | |
|--------Neutral--------| Neutral
| | |
| | |
3. Reverse. 2nd multiplier

.


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## Guest

This link is to tractor data.com http://www.tractordata.com/backhoe-loader/000/1/2/129-ford-420-transmission.html
It shows the 420 transmission as being 6 forward and 4 reverse. Seems that tells you the transmission as well as bell housing are from a 4000.


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## Guest

You said you had a leak at the right rear wheel and that 1 axle housing was yellow and one is blue. Question 1: are both wheels apparently the same? Question 2: Which axle housing has the leak, the yellow or the blue?


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## Guest

Question: What's the status of your rear pto: working or not? Question what's the status of your 3 point hitch hydraulics: working or not?


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## Donald A.

Graysonr said:


> This link is to tractor data.com http://www.tractordata.com/backhoe-loader/000/1/2/129-ford-420-transmission.html
> It shows the 420 transmission as being 6 forward and 4 reverse. Seems that tells you the transmission as well as bell housing are from a 4000.


I checked out the link you gave. It shows 3 different gear configurations for the Ford 420. 8 forward and 2 reverse is shown as an available configuration for the 420 which I have. So it can be a 420.


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## Guest

Yep, but someone changed out some stuff there.....what do you think the odds are that the 420 originally had the power shifting with torque converter and it wore out?


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## Donald A.

Graysonr said:


> You said you had a leak at the right rear wheel and that 1 axle housing was yellow and one is blue. Question 1: are both wheels apparently the same? Question 2: Which axle housing has the leak, the yellow or the blue?


Both tires appear to be the same. 
The right rear axle is yellow, but was painted blue and most of that blue is off. The left axle and differential appears to be painted red primer with blue covering most of it. It is the right rear axle that is leaking at the very end.


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## Guest

Ok, I was trying to correlate changed out parts to what's not leaking.....Do the pto and 3 point lift work?


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## Donald A.

Graysonr said:


> Question: What's the status of your rear pto: working or not? Question what's the status of your 3 point hitch hydraulics: working or not?


The PTO works, but never stops.

The hydraulic 3 point lift does not work and is in the up position. This was known by me before I bought it. The man I bought it from said the piston in the hydraulic lift may be broken. That it may be a somewhat easy fix.


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## Donald A.

Graysonr said:


> Ok, I was trying to correlate changed out parts to what's not leaking.....Do the pto and 3 point lift work?


Read my other reply


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## Donald A.

Graysonr said:


> Yep, but someone changed out some stuff there.....what do you think the odds are that the 420 originally had the power shifting with torque converter and it wore out?


I wouldn't even know how to test for that.


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## Guest

Well Donald A. I wish you good luck at every turn. I walked into my share of grief when I bought my 1968 2000. The last owner had owned it for about 8 yrs and had bought it on consignment at a dealer. The dealer had painted it up, and I know for a fact that almost no routine maintenance had been done in the 8 yrs this guy owned it because everything was still painted shut. Worse, the previous owner(s) had a bad case of doing things half way. I've spent a year and a grunch of money to remove the signs of early abuse and lack of routine maintenance checks, but consider myself lucky. Here's why:
I saw an ad on Craig's list for a Dexta diesel here in town. That's what I really wanted. But at the same time, I knew they were fairly rare, so I needed to find one that was still serviceable and could still tractor while I fixed it up. When I went to look at it, it was a mess. Anything that could be was jury-rigged, everything that could rust, was. Tires totally at the end of their life. Owner could not start it that day even though he brought a spare battery, and it was a warm day.
Smartest thing I ever did was to walk away from it. But 40 or 50 years is a long time. I grew up with a 9N and I thought it was old at 25 years! Big difference though, Ford was still Ford and parts were not a problem.


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## Donald A.

Graysonr said:


> I found some information on www that the loader may be a 735.


I believe you maybe correct. The 735 looks like the FEL I have on my tractor.


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## Donald A.

I just found out some info of Ford engines built in Basildon, UK. This is a copy of of a post on yesterday's tractors forums..

*Sean in PA*
Tractor Guru


Joined: 27 Feb 2008
Posts: 5991
Location: Southeast PA

Report to Moderator
Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 2:24 pm Post subject: Re: 3000 Diesel Engine serial number and production code  
John (Destroked), 

Someone sent me a scanned set of the first 4 pages of a European Service manual that covered the identification information for "old" (pre-4/1/6







and "New" (4/1/68 & up) thousand series tractors, which included the engine serial number info. 

Here are the "old" and "new" letter prefixes for the various series engine serial numbers: 

2000 series: 
old - L new - B 

3000 series: 
old - N new - C 

4000 series: 
old - P new - D 

5000 series: 
old - R new - E 

There was starting tractor serial number info for the "new" models at the European assembly plants also. That is where I learned that the Basildon UK plant ran two parallel sets of serial numbers in different ranges, one range was for "export" and the other was for "domestic". 

Approximate starting serial numbers for the "new" models on 4/1/68: 

Antwerp: 
2000 - A168001 
3000 - A168007 
4000 - A168003 
5000 - A168005 

Basildon Domestic: 
2000 - B851199 
3000 - B851094 
4000 - B851097 
5000 - B851100 

Basildon Export: 
2000 - B088752 
3000 - B088762 
4000 - B088828 
5000 - B088773 

I have also seen that since the '65-'74 thousand series they kept up with the first letter of the engine serial number matching the firs letter of the model number at least through the '80's and into the early '90's. So an engine serial number that starts with a D would be from a 4000, 4600, 4610 or 4630 series tractor depending on when it was made. An E would be 5000, 5600, 5610, 5630, etc. It was only the "old" (pre-4/1/6







tractors that had the letters in the engine serial numbers that didn't match the model series of the tractor.


Let me know what you think.


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## Donald A.

Donald A. said:


> I just found out some info of Ford engines built in Basildon, UK. This is a copy of of a post on yesterday's tractors forums..
> 
> *Sean in PA*
> Tractor Guru
> 
> 
> Joined: 27 Feb 2008
> Posts: 5991
> Location: Southeast PA
> 
> Report to Moderator
> Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2017 2:24 pm Post subject: Re: 3000 Diesel Engine serial number and production code
> John (Destroked),
> 
> Someone sent me a scanned set of the first 4 pages of a European Service manual that covered the identification information for "old" (pre-4/1/6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and "New" (4/1/68 & up) thousand series tractors, which included the engine serial number info.
> 
> Here are the "old" and "new" letter prefixes for the various series engine serial numbers:
> 
> 2000 series:
> old - L new - B
> 
> 3000 series:
> old - N new - C
> 
> 4000 series:
> old - P new - D
> 
> 5000 series:
> old - R new - E
> 
> There was starting tractor serial number info for the "new" models at the European assembly plants also. That is where I learned that the Basildon UK plant ran two parallel sets of serial numbers in different ranges, one range was for "export" and the other was for "domestic".
> 
> Approximate starting serial numbers for the "new" models on 4/1/68:
> 
> Antwerp:
> 2000 - A168001
> 3000 - A168007
> 4000 - A168003
> 5000 - A168005
> 
> Basildon Domestic:
> 2000 - B851199
> 3000 - B851094
> 4000 - B851097
> 5000 - B851100
> 
> Basildon Export:
> 2000 - B088752
> 3000 - B088762
> 4000 - B088828
> 5000 - B088773
> 
> I have also seen that since the '65-'74 thousand series they kept up with the first letter of the engine serial number matching the firs letter of the model number at least through the '80's and into the early '90's. So an engine serial number that starts with a D would be from a 4000, 4600, 4610 or 4630 series tractor depending on when it was made. An E would be 5000, 5600, 5610, 5630, etc. It was only the "old" (pre-4/1/6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tractors that had the letters in the engine serial numbers that didn't match the model series of the tractor.
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think.



So according to this, my Ford 420 tractor was assembled in Basildon, UK with a 4000 series motor. And it was meant to stay in England, but now I own it in Texas. So is this a gray market tractor??? If it is, the person that sold it to me lied on purpose or did not know.


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## RC Wells

Ford imported many tractors from their English manufacturing facilities. Legitimate import.

The 735 loader is a good loader with plenty of capacity for that tractor too.

Grey market tractors are the low hour Japanese and Korean compacts brought to the US from the rice paddies. For the most part they are excellent tractors, but lack safety equipment and the emission compliant engines required in the US. Commercial farm liability insurance will not cover them, so only good for non-commercial use.


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## Donald A.

RC Wells said:


> Ford imported many tractors from their English manufacturing facilities. Legitimate import.
> 
> The 735 loader is a good loader with plenty of capacity for that tractor too.
> 
> Grey market tractors are the low hour Japanese and Korean compacts brought to the US from the rice paddies. For the most part they are excellent tractors, but lack safety equipment and the emission compliant engines required in the US. Commercial farm liability insurance will not cover them, so only good for non-commercial use.


Thank you.

That is good to know about my loader and my tractor not being a gray market tractor. 

I am just having trouble knowing exactky what kind of tractor I have. So many numbers/letters. Some jive, some don't correlate, and some are completely ambiguous. I need to buy parts for it, but it is difficult because the ambiguity of my "Franken-tractor".

Uuuuugh!


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## BigT

Attached is a photo of a Ford 420 for sale with tractorhouse.com Does your tractor look the same? They also have a video of this tractor (which I couldn't download). Check it out


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## Donald A.

BigT said:


> Attached is a photo of a Ford 420 for sale with tractorhouse.com Does your tractor look the same? They also have a video of this tractor (which I couldn't download). Check it out
> 
> View attachment 37301


It looks a lot like it. My loader has been modified.







My rear wheels are bigger. Wished I had those front tires. Lol


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## Guest

I think all this tells you is that the transmission case and bell housing and contents are most likely taken out of a 1970 Ford 4000 (serial number seems too high for this) or even a 1980 Ford 4600 made in Basildon. It would be wonderful to track down the meaning of your engine data because the 4000 and 4600 had a 201 cid engine while the 420 had a 183 cid engine. The K prefix I have read, means Industrial, but that's a narrow thread if and when you need attention to the engine.
Here's what I think: (1) Right now, you have wear on the front axle, spindles, bearings, seals etc. This should be fixed before something falls off, immobilizing the tractor. The NH web site has a parts breakdown for this, and I think the aftermarket parts guys should be able to help with parts if some or all are no longer available at NH. Using the NH website, you can at least know what to ask for. (1a) I think you can order the metal hydraulic line to the pump from one of the after market guys and ask about gaskets or seals needed.
(2, 3, and 4) Work best done in a shop by someone with equipment and experience: The right rear axle needs work (I hope your tires aren't loaded). (3) as is the lift arm stuck in up position[most probable cause is something rusted in position inside or parts that have become disconnected] and also the (4) pto that won't shut off[most probable cause is jury rigging when transmission was changed out].
If you're not going to have the hydraulic/pto/axle seal work done right away, I would find the fill level indicator (should be a square headed plug) the drain plugs underneath and change the fluids in both the transmission and rearend/hydraulics. The drain plug for the hydraulics has a magnet on it, and may be holding pieces that came out disabling the lift arms. Be careful not to move any other bolts or screws on the rear end/hydraulic case as you may disconnect something that shouldn't be.
Nothing sadder or more useless than a broken tractor as a lawn ornament.
What do you think?


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## RC Wells

I would not worry about parts. The 8 speed transmission for the 3900, 4100, 4600, 420, 515, and 532 are all parts interchangeable. PTO on the PTO models is the same too.

Clutch parts are readily available.

The fuel injection pump is easy to rebuild, and interchanges across a ton of models and years.

The engine is still available from New Holland as a remanufactured unit, and you can just as easily use the larger engine as the smaller displacement version. Most New Holland parts guys will talk you into the larger displacement version anyway, the cost is the same. It really is not worth the effort to rebuild one yourself anymore, as the cost of local machine work will eat any savings, and they do require machine work after decades of use when it is time for engine renewal.

The front axle and steering components are available and cross into the much newer models, so the parts person can locate anything you need.

Same for the differential.

I would just fix the broken components and use it knowing you can get anything needed from New Holland, or one of the less expensive aftermarket suppliers.

As for the PTO running all the time, these are mechanical with a lever and fork that slides a coupling to engage. Usually the fix is to pull the round access plate with the lever and replace the fork. Again, that part is found across a number of models.


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## Donald A.

Graysonr said:


> I think all this tells you is that the transmission case and bell housing and contents are most likely taken out of a 1970 Ford 4000 (serial number seems too high for this) or even a 1980 Ford 4600 made in Basildon. It would be wonderful to track down the meaning of your engine data because the 4000 and 4600 had a 201 cid engine while the 420 had a 183 cid engine. The K prefix I have read, means Industrial, but that's a narrow thread if and when you need attention to the engine.
> Here's what I think: (1) Right now, you have wear on the front axle, spindles, bearings, seals etc. This should be fixed before something falls off, immobilizing the tractor. The NH web site has a parts breakdown for this, and I think the aftermarket parts guys should be able to help with parts if some or all are no longer available at NH. Using the NH website, you can at least know what to ask for. (1a) I think you can order the metal hydraulic line to the pump from one of the after market guys and ask about gaskets or seals needed.
> (2, 3, and 4) Work best done in a shop by someone with equipment and experience: The right rear axle needs work (I hope your tires aren't loaded). (3) as is the lift arm stuck in up position[most probable cause is something rusted in position inside or parts that have become disconnected] and also the (4) pto that won't shut off[most probable cause is jury rigging when transmission was changed out].
> If you're not going to have the hydraulic/pto/axle seal work done right away, I would find the fill level indicator (should be a square headed plug) the drain plugs underneath and change the fluids in both the transmission and rearend/hydraulics. The drain plug for the hydraulics has a magnet on it, and may be holding pieces that came out disabling the lift arms. Be careful not to move any other bolts or screws on the rear end/hydraulic case as you may disconnect something that shouldn't be.
> Nothing sadder or more useless than a broken tractor as a lawn ornament.
> What do you think?


Going to Aaxiom hydraulics to get the front, main, high pressure hydraulic metal hose replaced. I am sure it will need the same fittings and the steal tube will need bending the same way. So I will take it off and taje it with me. I will check on parts on the front wheels. Also the outer covering of the front tires are tearing away. The front tires may do a "Firestone" on me. Thanks.


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## Guest

Yup, I had the same problem with front tires. My best price on them with mounting came from my auto repair place. I had to replace 1 front wheel due to rusting away at the valve stem. I had to replace 1 rear tire as well for the same reason, and rim was narrower, so replaced that at the same time. The other rear tire and rim were 3 years old and I was able to get same brand tire to match it. Again I had the rear tire mounted on the new rim at my auto repair place (they do big truck tires also, so were not daunted by the tractor tire). Seems that the old tires are eaten up with uv from the sun and when used again, deteriorate rapidly. New ones will now most likely last a lifetime. Probably the same deal with hydraulic hoses. Actually, sold the old rear tire and rim on Craig's list to a guy whose tractor was broke down in his field with a flat. Asked $50 for it with pickup at my location as I didn't want to cheat anyone.
Personally, I get a glow of satisfaction in conserving in usable working condition a 50 year old machine instead of buying a much newer machine that is made in India and covered with plastic fantastic garbage!


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## Donald A.

Just dropped out the filter assembly on my 735 FEL. GOOD GOD! Slimey, slimey slimey. Looked like it never was cganged out. So I ordered the filter kit (filter + gaket). Should get it next week. I will change out all flexible hoses in the mean time.


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## Guest

Good going!


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## Donald A.

Changed out the FEL filter, fluid, and flexible hoses. All of the attached metal hoses had 5/8" female compression nuts. I was able to purchase some flexible hoses at Tractor Supply. Because of the 5/8" connections I had to go to our local hose and gasket store to custom make some of the flexible hoses. All in all it cost about $300. Now I have no leaks in the FEL and it works very well. I will try to send pics.


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## Guest

Nice! Neat and tidy. 1 more system you can rely on. Well done!


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## Michael Burdett

Graysonr said:


> Donald: It's a pretty sure thing that this section of the tractor is not original. Having said that, I have no clue to what those additional numbers mean. Have you tried talking to Tractorhouse, All States Ag Equipment, Yesterdays Tractors, Steiners, Arthurs tractors? Any of those may have reference material that may help with those additional numbers, the engine serial numbers, the loader id. It would sure be nice to know what info the engine numbers can give as the 420 shows different ci engine than the 4000.
> Question: is your transmission as described (4 fwd with a hi/lo stick)in the id info I and others have supplied you?


O have this same problem with mine


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