# Block Heater identification



## release30 (Mar 5, 2019)

Howdy all, I purchased a tractor a year ago and this forum has been such a good source of information for someone who had zero experience with tractors and even less experience with diesel engines. It's got the Ford 3600 stickers on it but I suspect its a 3000 based on the serials numbers I've found on it. It is the 3 cylinder diesel. Anyway, my question is actually in regards to the block heater...or what I suspect is the block heater. I've looked and looked online (using the numbers found on the connector, see pics) but can't find a block heater plug that matches with 3-pin layout that this one has. Has anyone ever seen a pin layout like this? Or just help identify the type of block heater it is so I can find the plug that matches so I can actually use it? Thanks so much! See attached pics.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

There may be similar products from other manufacturers, but I am pretty sure that it is a block heater from DEFA. The markings (with circles) are obsolete and the voltage 220V is a bit old. The circles mean that the product is approved for the Norwegian, Swedish and FInnish markets. Sweden changed from 220V to 230V voltage between live and neutral in the late 80's. The type seems to be 009, and that could mean that it is a DEFA heater from the 000-series from way back.

There should be a "DEFA" marking somewhere on the plastics.


A picture that shows a DEFA inlet (another type of heater, but the one I found with a good view of the layout:
https://www.defa.com/content/upload...r-motorvarmer-bilvarme-warmup-3-1000x1000.jpg

The 000-series of today:
https://www.defa.com/product/engine-heater-safestart-000-series/


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Release30; I think you will find there is a few pin layouts.......if you find one that will fit you can use whatever voltage you have; from 110 to 240. Of course the lower the voltage the lower the heating capacity. There are 'stick-on', magnetic, block heaters available but usually only 200 watt 120v but get 2 or 3 if you need more heat........


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## release30 (Mar 5, 2019)

Hacke said:


> There may be similar products from other manufacturers, but I am pretty sure that it is a block heater from DEFA. The markings (with circles) are obsolete and the voltage 220V is a bit old. The circles mean that the product is approved for the Norwegian, Swedish and FInnish markets. Sweden changed from 220V to 230V voltage between live and neutral in the late 80's. The type seems to be 009, and that could mean that it is a DEFA heater from the 000-series from way back.
> 
> There should be a "DEFA" marking somewhere on the plastics.
> 
> ...


Thanks so much! I did a little research on these. I wasn't able to find any with american style plugs. So I assume I couldn't use one without an adapter of some kind. I'm guessing I'll probably just have to go with deerhide's suggestion and get one of the magnetic ones. Thanks so much again for the responses!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

If you want to do it right, you need two cables. One (black) that is supposed to be mounted permanently, that goes on the heater:
https://www.mekonomen.no/Document/Image?fileName=27\27-DA460785\00.jpg&size=product

The other end of the black cable has a socket that you place somwhere where it is convenient to attach the green cable. The green cable goes from the socket on the tractor to your power outlet.

If you get your hands on a set of cables, you only need to change the plug that goes into your power outlet.

Since your tractor has no black cable attached, and the pins and sealing o-ring are covered in paint, I think the heater is long gone dead. The cables are pricey, and you do not want to spend that money, just to find out that it is.

I do not know anything about the magnetically attached heaters. I would go for a hose heater. They are easy to install and very effective, especially those with an internal electric pump that circulates the coolant.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

release30 said:


> Thanks so much! I did a little research on these. I wasn't able to find any with american style plugs. So I assume I couldn't use one without an adapter of some kind. I'm guessing I'll probably just have to go with deerhide's suggestion and get one of the magnetic ones. Thanks so much again for the responses!


Release30;
Check to see if your heater actually will work. You will need an electrical test meter, they have 2 test probes and they test several things and are adjustable($20 you should have one anyway). You need 'continuity' with 2 of males on your heater.....the measure is in ohms and in this case the needle should read high. If that is ok I think you can fashion a power cord with 2 inline wire connectors off of an old microwave, a tv or a piece of an extension cord.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

deerhide said:


> Release30; I think you will find there is a few pin layouts.......if you find one that will fit you can use whatever voltage you have; from 110 to 240. Of course the lower the voltage the lower the heating capacity. There are 'stick-on', magnetic, block heaters available but usually only 200 watt 120v but get 2 or 3 if you need more heat........


750W at 220V means about 65Ω resistance.
If you use 110V you get about 190W heating effect.
That means four times the time the heater needs to be on, in theory. Practically it will need longer time than that, because you will have other problems with such low effect. The self-circulating process will be weak, which will lead to a slow distribution of heat through the engine. If the block and surrounding temperature is low enough, you may never reach the desired temperature.



deerhide said:


> Release30;
> Check to see if your heater actually will work. You will need an electrical test meter, they have 2 test probes and they test several things and are adjustable($20 you should have one anyway). You need 'continuity' with 2 of males on your heater.....the measure is in ohms and in this case the needle should read high.
> ...


There are three pins. We do not know if it is a DEFA heater, so we do not know for certain which pin goes where. Most likely they are one Live (L), one Neutral (N) and one Ground (G). Continuity between L and N could mean that you have a short circuit. Same thing with continuity between L and G. Same thing with continuity between N and G. Continuity will tell you nothing.

There _should_ be around 65Ω between N and L, and none of them should have continuity to the heater body. G should not have continuity to either of the two other pins, but continuity to the heater body.
But you can be fooled if the heater element is broken.



deerhide said:


> Release30;
> ...
> If that is ok I think you can fashion a power cord with 2 inline wire connectors off of an old microwave, a tv or a piece of an extension cord.


No, definitely No.
Never connect a heater without a ground connection. You need a ground lead from your power outlet attached to the heater ground connection, and the engine/tractor body. A fault in the heater or wiring can lead to a deadly shock when you touch the tractor, if the installation has no ground. The ground connection also means less risk of fault that can lead to a fire.

With a proper ground, the fuse blows and you are safe.

If you do not have the proper wiring: Forget it. Hang your hat on it.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Here is a pic of the original block heater in my 1970 Ford 4000. You have to zoom in close behind the starter. It has a 3 prong 120 volt plug shaped like a butterfly. Don't know if this helps any. It is a screw in unit with separate cord, one plugs into heater, other to 120v outlet.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Ed Williams said:


> Here is a pic of the original block heater in my 1970 Ford 4000. You have to zoom in close behind the starter. It has a 3 prong 120 volt plug shaped like a butterfly. Don't know if this helps any. It is a screw in unit with separate cord, one plugs into heater, other to 120v outlet.


 Nice job done on your tractor. Your heater is the same as Release 30's, different voltage is all. Baseboard heaters, toasters and incandesant light bulbs all work on the same principle.........


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Release 30; Another option. When my 135 won't start due to cold weather I light the propane turkey fryer burner under the base for 10 or 20 minutes.........


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

I found a better option by experimenting. If you have 120v power for a block heater, I remove the rubber boot attaching the air cleaner to the intake manifold, max 2 min job. Then insert the nozzle of my B&D heat gun into the manifold. It is self supporting, no holding required. Turn on medium heat. At 3 minutes, the manifold is pleasantly warm. At 5 minutes, you cannot hold hand on manifold comfortably, so above 140 deg F. Start diesel. Mine has a little low compression, but started in less than 2 seconds with outside temp at 17 deg F. No block heater, no glow plug, no starting fluid, no ether, just clean hot air. No contaminants injected into motor as with open flame.


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## release30 (Mar 5, 2019)

Thanks so much everyone for the help and insights! I like the idea of the heat gun, might have to give that a try.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

A heater system (block, hose or oil sump type) is one thing, a starting aid is another.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

release30 said:


> Thanks so much everyone for the help and insights! I like the idea of the heat gun, might have to give that a try.





release30 said:


> Thanks so much everyone for the help and insights! I like the idea of the heat gun, might have to give that a try.


We had another balmy morning of 16 deg F. Tried a variant of the heat gun. I held it on the outside of the manifold and worked it back and forth on top, bottom and sides of manifold. This was not very effective. Too much surface area to dissapeat heat when applied to outside. Could not maintain a warm to touch heat on the length of the manifold. So back to the original plan. RemovING the boot is a pain, literally, in the fingers in cold weather, but c a N warm them up pretty quick on the warm manifold. Made 1 small change. I added a cheap 5/16" nut driver and a hooked hose tool, MAC-not cheap, to the tractor tool box so hose removal is a quick 25-30 seconds. Install about 1 minute. Starting time was about the same. I repaired the defunct thermal start a couple of months ago, so I tried it also. With the thermal start alone, the first muffled bang from the thermal start was at 30-35 seconds, then 25 seconds of cranking before start. ThermalstaRT with the manifold heat gun was next. With hose off, bang from the thermal start was LOUD, scared the hell out me, plus smoke blowing out of manifold before cranking. Start time was the second as.with heat gun alone. I don't think I will use the thermAl start with the hose off. My nerves won't take it. Heat gun is nice and quiet and works just as good. May have to use block heater, thermal start, and heat gun in below zero weather, but confident tractor will start now in KY's normal winter temps.


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