# S.O.S - Hydraulic Bleeding - 2110



## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

Hi Everyone,

I have always bled the hydraulic system (when needed) up near the front (see pic).
Yesterday when I need to bleed the system, it blew a seal (o-ring) and spewed the fluid all over the place, including me. Luckily only my shoes and bottom of my pants.

I replaced the o-ring and it didn't leak. I did the "bleeding" thing and it blew another ring. Now, I have replaced the ring again and it doesn't leak.

So, what I need to know: Is there a more suitable place to bleed it. I learned this way from one of my "know it all workers" . Well, it did work, a few timeso.

Thankeeeee.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Hello Jim,

Welcome back to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

See attached Hydraulic Pump & Piping parts diagram for your 2110. Which connection are you loosening to "bleed" the system? 

If your pump is losing prime, normally you are sucking air into the system on the suction side. Often times, this is due to a plugged filter or suction screen. How old is your filter? Does your tractor have a suction screen?


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

sixbales said:


> Hello Jim,
> 
> Welcome back to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot.

The only time I have ever needed to bleed the system was when I had to add hydraulic fluid, I have a small drip in a small line of the left side of the engine that I have been meaning to repair, but, just haven't gotten a "round tuit".

The unit does have a filter. I don't remember when it was replaced. Probably too long ago. I don't know about a "suction screen". Didn't see it in the list.

I have two lines running rather parrallel from the back to the front. One connects to the filter assembly. The other connects to something 8 inches below that one. The lower one is the one where I always bleed the system. Usually just loosen it enough to see some fluid and bubbles come out and tighten it when I see a steady stream of fluid. For whatever reason, this time (two times) nothing seems to happen until I loosen it too much and the pressure blows the inner o-ring. The fluid really gushes out. Maybe half a gallon of fluid. Tightening it at this point doesn't stop the leak (but cutting the engine does). It sounds like maybe there isn't any AIR in that line .

Right now, none of the hydraulics work.

Whaddya think?

Thanks.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Normally, Ford tractors have a plug in the pump body to bleed air and get it primed. But this is a Shibaura-built (Japan) tractor... In looking at the parts diagram, I see a suction plug (#54) and two pressure plugs (#35). If you crack open the pressure plugs, it might serve to bleed off air in the system. You can probably put fluid into the pump suction via plug #54 with the engine off. 

Jim, it's time to fix the small leak and replace the hydraulic filter. Doncha think???


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

sixbales said:


> Normally, Ford tractors have a plug in the pump body to bleed air and get it primed. But this is a Shibaura-built (Japan) tractor... In looking at the parts diagram, I see a suction plug (#54) and two pressure plugs (#35). If you crack open the pressure plugs, it might serve to bleed off air in the system. You can probably put fluid into the pump suction via plug #54 with the engine off.
> 
> Jim, it's time to fix the small leak and replace the hydraulic filter. Doncha think???


Thanks for your reply. 

My tractor does not have the #54 suction plug. It has the same sort of bolts as does the rest of the similar connections. I did loosen bold #52 a bit to see if that would bleed (like I did the connection on the line below it, as I always had done before, to no avail).

As to the two #35s, they seem to be on the INSIDE side of the assembly where I couldn't see them (I haven't looked yet, so I'm relying on memory).

What about #34? I loosened it a LOT and noting seeped or spewed out at all. I was just guessing, as it appeared to be some sort of bleed valve.

Why would I want to put fluid into the system at #54?

Yes, it is high time I fixed that drip and changed the filter .

Many thanks.


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

I do not have the #35 bleeders you mentioned, sixbales.

I was hoping someone else had a 2110 similar to mine, but maybe not, I hate to have to take it to the shop and loose an arm and a leg.

The filter, if dirty, would stop the flow of fluid to the whole shebang?

And what is the "suction screen" I have heard mentioned?

At this point, I really don't know what to try next.

Thanks a lot.


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

ONE MORE QUESTION -

The bolts that connect the big hydraulic lines (16, 18, 52 on the diagram) have a hole drilled in them horizontally. Doesn't this mean that that hole would have to line up with the line to allow fluid to flow through? How does one "know" if it is lined up properly?
If it were a "main" line, and it were blocked, then none of the hydraulics would work. Am I correct? Well, none of them are working. Whaddaya think?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Change the filter. And fix the leak. Two of the least expensive things you can do. 

The parts drawing does not show a suction screen. So you probably do not have one. 

I think the odds are that replacing the filter will get her going again.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

The bolts have a hole bored lengthwise, intersecting the cross bore. Fluid flows through the bolt. No alignment required on cross bore.


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

sixbales said:


> The bolts have a hole bored lengthwise, intersecting the cross bore. Fluid flows through the bolt


Yep. But why the cross bore?

One more thing, I did find one of the bleed plugs you mentioned, #54. It was back where the hydraulic line bolts to the DIFFERENTIAL. I was looking for it up by the filter. Any idea why it might have been moved? Anyway, will check on it after I get the filter on.

I have the filter off and am heading to civilization to pick one up. We live out in the cacti, 20 miles from anything <smile>.

It doesn't appear that any fluid is reaching the filter. What might that indicate?

Heading for town...............


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

Has everyone reached the end of their knowledge on this issue? 

I discovered it WAS NOT THE FILTER!

I was able to bleed it, where I always do, just a little dab at a time, and got it working.....somewhat. Then, it would stop, and I had to bleed it again. The last time, I loosened the bolt a little too much and it blew an o-ring and fluid started spewing out all over the place.

I don't know much, but I do know this much:

1. It wasn't the filter
2. The power steering was working all along
3. When the front loader wasn't working, the rear 3-Pt system didn't either
4. The pump is working

Someone mentioned it could suck air from somewhere. Where? How?

I'm at the end of my rope. I hope you folks aren't totally dumbfounded like me. I'm dead in the water. 

C'mon guys, dig a little deeper .


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Jim,

The reason the power steering was working all along is that it has a separate pump. See #16 on the attached diagram.

Go back to the Hydraulic Pump & Piping parts diagram for your 2110 on my original response. 

Possible leaking suction O-rings: #10 on the original parts diagram. #13 (2ea) on the original parts diagram. #19 (2ea) on the original parts diagram.

You have to bleed off enough fluid to fill the suction line (#12 on original parts diagram), and the filter (#11 on the original parts diagram). Bleeding off a "little dab" probably is not good enough.


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

sixbales said:


> Jim,
> 
> The reason the power steering was working all along is that it has a separate pump. See #16 on the attached diagram.
> 
> ...


When I said a "little dab", it was a little dab "at a time". Because if I loosened it enough to really bleed it, it blows the o-ring. 

When you say "bleed off enough fluid to fill the suction line (#12)" don't you mean I have to bleed off enough air so that that line will be filled with fluid and not air?

Also when you say "Possible leaking suction O-rings:" Do you mean they leak and allow "air" into the system? And does that mean those rings would NOT leak fluid?
I'm trying to get a handle, but am still confused about "suction" lines. The #12 line runs from the filter all the way back under the seat, into what I called the differential in a previous message. That was where the plug #54 was located, rather than on the opposite end by the filter. I did open that plug and it did drain some fluid out and onto the ground, but there was no "force" to it. Should there have been?

Back to the four o-rings (#13 & #19), if I am reading the diagram correctly, those are on the same line at opposite ends. Correct? They are NOT leaking, but are you saying they might be "sucking"?

I'm just trying to make sure I understand so I don't have to too many "do overs" :dazed:, if you know what I mean.

Does it sound like I might have a clue now ? Thanks a bunch. I'm waiting for confirmation before I dig back into things.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Although the parts diagram doesn't show it, there should be an allen-headed plug on the front of the hydraulic pump which is used for bleeding the system and as a test port. 

If your hydraulic pump has this plug, loosen it and catch fluid in a clean bucket till all air is expelled.


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

sixbales said:


> Although the parts diagram doesn't show it, there should be an allen-headed plug on the front of the hydraulic pump which is used for bleeding the system and as a test port.
> 
> If your hydraulic pump has this plug, loosen it and catch fluid in a clean bucket till all air is expelled.


Mine has one on TOP of unit that operates the front loader. It will take a LARGE wrench, tho, and I don't think any of my sets has one that large. Of course that one will will bleed upwards and all the fluid will drip down. There is another one up front that I thought was on the water pump. Will check again for the one on the hydro pump. Thanks again for your help.


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## allen_1_2002 (Apr 27, 2014)

I'm following this thread closely because I am having similar issues with my 1985 Ford 2110. I replaced a couple hydraulic hoses and now my FEL gets air locked when I try to use it. Instead of just being able to move the joystick up/down/left/right, it only works to full capacity when you wiggle it into the corners. Oddly enough, if you crack open the lines on the FEL while it's running, the loader works perfectly while it's spewing fluid everywhere. As soon as you tighten the line back, it's back to the same old same. I have even tried tightening them back up while it's still spewing to make sure I was back sucking air after I quit activating the hydraulics. 3 pt hitch is working flawlessly. Unfortunately, the $100 manual that I purchased does not cover the FEL, only the tractor itself. I would greatly appreciate any input.


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

allen_1_2002 said:


> I'm following this thread closely because I am having similar issues with my 1985 Ford 2110. I replaced a couple hydraulic hoses and now my FEL gets air locked when I try to use it. Instead of just being able to move the joystick up/down/left/right, it only works to full capacity when you wiggle it into the corners. Oddly enough, if you crack open the lines on the FEL while it's running, the loader works perfectly while it's spewing fluid everywhere. As soon as you tighten the line back, it's back to the same old same. I have even tried tightening them back up while it's still spewing to make sure I was back sucking air after I quit activating the hydraulics. 3 pt hitch is working flawlessly. Unfortunately, the $100 manual that I purchased does not cover the FEL, only the tractor itself. I would greatly appreciate any input.


Mine did the same thing. It turned out that it wasn't fully bled and when it was fully bled there wasn't enough fluid to operate the bucket. Check that out! Good luck.


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## allen_1_2002 (Apr 27, 2014)

Where did you end up bleeding your system? Second question: when I remove the suction plug (#54), nothing comes out. Should that be full of fluid to where it flows out when removed?


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

allen_1_2002 said:


> Where did you end up bleeding your system? Second question: when I remove the suction plug (#54), nothing comes out. Should that be full of fluid to where it flows out when removed?


Did you see my original drawing?

Mine has two larger lines running up toward the radiator.

I loosened the lower one till it started bubbling a little, then let it run until it was totally draining fluid. 

Then re-filled with fluid and that did it. (Actually, I did that about three times, thinking I had completely drained it, so make sure it is bled).


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## allen_1_2002 (Apr 27, 2014)

Thanks. I haven't tried bleeding from that line yet. It makes sense since that is a pressure line. I guess what throws me off is that my 3 pt hitch is working great. I've mainly focused on the FEL lines exclusively. I'm willing to try anything at this point though since the tractor is pretty useless when my FEL barely functions.


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## desertjim (May 14, 2011)

allen_1_2002 said:


> Thanks. I haven't tried bleeding from that line yet. It makes sense since that is a pressure line. I guess what throws me off is that my 3 pt hitch is working great. I've mainly focused on the FEL lines exclusively. I'm willing to try anything at this point though since the tractor is pretty useless when my FEL barely functions.


Nothing was working on mine. So, it could be something else. Good luck.


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## allen_1_2002 (Apr 27, 2014)

Bleeding the lines did not work. I'm not sure exactly what the problem is, but it seems to be in the FEL controls. I'm fairly convinced with air in the lines, my FEL would not be working near as well.


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## allen_1_2002 (Apr 27, 2014)

Had two hoses crossed. Don't I feel like a dupe now....


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## Edda (May 29, 2020)

Replaced the hydraulic filter on my 1910 now the three point hitch will not lift, tried to bleed using 54 with no luck, any suggestions"


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