# Bolens H16, need rectifyer



## okenadie (Feb 20, 2013)

Went out to make sure the tractor would run. We have a big storm coming in tonight. So I find the battery is loose. And then I find that the bolts holding the battery in place is missing three of the four bolts. So I figure to make sure everything is OK. I decide to fix it. Well when I pulled the plate off it's got some wires hooked to the bottom. And they are not attached to the Rectifyer-Regulator any more. Seems the battery that was in it when I bought it. Was leaking acid down on it. And the wires got ate off. 
So now I'm asking, where can I get one of these. Here's the numbers I found in my manual for it. There are none.


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## film495 (Nov 1, 2013)

Can you just reconnect the wires to the rectifier and replace battery? I ordered a replacement rectifier/regulator yesterday off Amazon cause I was getting 16+ volts on my battery, which apparently is a bad thing.


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## okenadie (Feb 20, 2013)

All the wires were broken off. And the connectors on it were eaten away so bad there's nothing left to connect to. I found one. It is only rated at 10 amps. And it's $165.00


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Oakenadie,if it's the 3 wire one ,just use one from a Kohler engine. Can you post a pic of it ?


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## GTcollector (Dec 27, 2010)

okenadie said:


> Went out to make sure the tractor would run. We have a big storm coming in tonight. So I find the battery is loose. And then I find that the bolts holding the battery in place is missing three of the four bolts. So I figure to make sure everything is OK. I decide to fix it. Well when I pulled the plate off it's got some wires hooked to the bottom. And they are not attached to the Rectifyer-Regulator any more. Seems the battery that was in it when I bought it. Was leaking acid down on it. And the wires got ate off.
> So now I'm asking, where can I get one of these. Here's the numbers I found in my manual for it. There are none.


This really proves how important regular and preventative maintenance really is. I have a check list and clipboard on each tractor and do a pre drive and post drive inspection every time I use the machine. It has saved me from further damage many times, good luck.


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## Shade Tree Wrench (Mar 3, 2014)

*Try soldering*

I'll get long and wordy here. My background is I taught shop and have worked in the electronics industry, where I soldered many a joint on PC boards. The instructions are in depth (like a lesson plan), to explain the process to folks with various levels of experience and ability. Hope this helps. 

If there's any, even 1/16" of metal wire showing at the rectifier, a new wire should be able to be soldered on. After all, think of those little connections on a PC board.

One thing that I've learned along the way is: None of these tractors...or any of the "stuff" that we have was brought down to us by a god...they were all designed and assembled by a mortal human being. There is no reason that any of us can't do a repair, ourselves, if the thing is, actually, repairable and we're willing do the work to learn as much as we can.

If you are good at soldering, you should be able to do it yourself. If not, do you have any friends who are into working on electronics: Ham Radio, CB, etc? If not check with a CB/Ham/even a computer repair, shop. Ask them what their confidence level is and let them know that there won't be repercussions if they can't. If success is doubtful, not because of lack of confidence or skill but, realistically, not doable...try it anyways, what do you have to lose.

If you do it yourself, be sure to clean off all of the acid residue first, both on the rectifier and the tractor. Be sure to use, only, rosin core solder and if you can find some liquid rosin flux get it. Clean the wires as shiny bright as you can...careful, not to remove any more insulation than necessary. Don't use a soldering gun, use a soldering pencil with a small tip. Practice with some pieces of wire the same size to get the feel for the flow. You want to have the tip on the wires for as short a period of time as possible. (If you're, really, lucky and have 1/2" or more, sticking out of the rectifier, attach a heat sink (small alligator clip) onto the wire between the joint and the rectifier.)

Be sure that you're using the same gauge wire that was, originally, used and if the colors don't match, draw a diagram and put it in your tractor file. Not to state the "obvious"...be sure that the pieces of new wire that you use are the right length! As I have said to myself, in the past..."You can't fix stupid!"

Now that you're ready, make sure that you have a clean, comfortable, well lit place to work. With the rectifier out, you can take it inside. If you do, it's best to wait until your "significant other" is out (Personal experience) and use something to protect that Duncan Phyfe dining room table! I like a clean piece of plywood, over a cloth or newspapers.

First, "tin" the tip of the iron and then both wires, about 1/4", if possible (they aren't touching here, each wire is separate). Tin the tip of the iron and wipe it on a wet paper towel. Put a drop of liquid flux on each wire, then touch the tip to the wire and let the solder flow and melt on a thin coat of solder onto each. You want a nice thin silver coating, not a glob. This will help you reduce the amount of time you have to hold the tip on the wires. 

Slide a piece of shrink tube onto the new wire and locate it at least 3" away from the joint that you'll be soldering, so it doesn't start to shrink from the heat from the soldering iron. (shrink tubing, usually, shrinks to, around 1/2 the original size. But, it needs to be big enough to slide over the solder joint. Sometimes, it won't end up being tight around the wire but it will be around the joint. That's what you want) Position the wire on the rectifier and the new wire and twist them together, twisting parallel to the length, not perpendicular if possible. A couple of twists will do. If you can't twist them, place them side by side so that they're in alignment and touching snugly. 

Take the iron and pretend/practice to solder the joint to make sure that they don't pop apart. Once it's a go, put another drop of liquid flux where the two wires meet. Say a quick prayer and...do the deed...touch the tip of the iron to the joint (I try to place the tip under the joint and feed from the top) and feed the solder in where the the tip and wires are touching. You want the solder on the wires to melt together and for the new solder to flow or wick into where they're touching. This should go pretty quickly, since everything has been tinned. 

Again, you don't want a glob or goober of solder. It should, just fill in, like the joint is plated. If there's too much, wipe the tip of the iron on the wet paper towel and melt the glob. It will flow back onto the clean tip. 

Next. If the insulation on the wire, where it enters the rectifier, is around 1/8" or more and in good condition (discolored is okay, crispy/crumbling or missing isn't), wait until the joint is cool and slide the shrink tubing down tight against the rectifier and apply heat to it. A heat gun is best or a hair dryer might work. Hold the gun away from the tube and move it in, slowly, until the tube starts to get smaller. Then, stop and keep it there, waving it around some, until it's shrunk tight around the joint. If you don't have a heat gun, a lighter will work. (I don't like matches because they leave soot behind). Start with the flame about 2" away and move it in slowly, until the tube starts to shrink then keep it there but moving it around a little so you don't burn the tubing.

If the insulation was bad, I like to use, either liquid tape or 5 minute epoxy to seal up around where the wire goes in. Place a small dab at the entry point and work it in with a tooth pick. Gently, jiggle the wire around some to help force it in as deep as possible then center the wire in the hole and let dry, completely. Now slide the shrink tube down and over the glue joint too and do the above step.

Once you have replaced all of the wires, reconnect them where they belong.

Put the tools away, wash your hands, take it for a spin and treat yourself to an appropriate beverage. You've earned it.

Jim


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