# Mahindra 4510 Overheating



## BDNPQ

I have a 2011 Mahindra 4510 cab tractor with a front end loader. When I am using it to mow it overheats. If I turn the AC off it will cool down Some however when I turn the AC back on it overheat again. I can also cool it down to normal by opening the hood and hosing the radiator down with cool water. Has anyone else experienced this problem and if so do you have any recommendations for solving my overheating problem?


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## marc_hanna

What have you done to diagnose the problem?
How long have you had the tractor and did the problem just start occurring?

If it is a new problem, it is likely that you are low on coolant or your thermostat has gone to a better place.


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## BDNPQ

It is not a new problem. This is going into my third summer of owning it. It only over heats when the ambient temp is over 75. 
I have only checked the coolant level. Do you recommend a certain order in which I should check certain things or replace certain things in order to rule them out?


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## marc_hanna

Well, typically the first thing I would think of is the thermostat, because it's cheap and easy to fix.

I would guess that if the thermostat is stuck, that little bit of extra power required to drive the compressor is creating enough heat to cause overheating. The fact that your engine cools off when hosing down the rad says to me that the coolant pump is working fine. I however would not recommend hosing off the engine in any way when it's overheated - you could cause cracking. Instead, shut it off and let it cool down on it own.

You have the same engine as I have in my tractor, except the larger displacement variant, and I don't have A/C. I have a repair manual that I can share with you.


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## marc_hanna

On another site there is another person with a Kioti tractor (different engine but about the same displacement) that has the same combination failure:

A/C + PTO = overheating. Under all other circumstances there is no issue. He's running a bailer whereas you are running a mower, but in both cases, likely maxing out the Hp on the PTO.

Assuming you don't need the remote hydraulics for your mower, do you have the lever in the off/neutral position?


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## BDNPQ

Marc, thanks for the reply. I believe the remote hydraulics levers are spring loaded so that they are always in the off/neutral position unless being manually moved but I will check that out to make sure. I may be mistaken on that.


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## cshortt

*Check these.....*

Marc,
1. Check you fan and fan blades. Make sure they are in good shape. Make sure the fan does not spin with the engine off. It should be a solid connection to the pulley.
1. Check your belts. Make sure they are in good shape and tight. If the belt is loose, the fan can slip under loads and not cool properly. Be sure to check this with the engine running at full rpm. This places the maximum load on the belt that drives the fan blade.
There will probably be what looks like 3 radiators in front of the engine. The first one is the condenser for you A/C system. The second will be the cooler for the hydraulic fluid, the third will be the actual radiator. There is a screen in front of the condenser, or it may be between the condenser and the hydraulic cooler. The screen is to catch debris (grass, hay, cottonwood fuz etc...) before it can get stuck in the radiators. Be sure and pull that out and clean it well.
With that screen pulled out and the engine cold, like after sitting overnight. Take a garden hose with a strong sprayer on it and spray the hose right through the front of the the "stack" of radiators. This will clean dirt, dust and fine particles that made it through the screen out of the air passages. Then spray it backwards through the "stack" from the fan side. Spray it till you get no more dirt coming out of it. Use care not flatten the fins.
DO NOT use a pressure washer! They will bend flat the fins of the radiators!

Once you have all of this done, put it all back together, start it up, run it at full rpm with the side covers off and check for good air flow coming from the fan. It should be moving A LOT of air!

One other thing. If this A/C system was added on after you got the tractor, or if it was added on by the dealer, the engine cooling system may not have the capacity to cool the engine with the A/C system installed. 
Vehicles with A/C systems have cooling systems designed large enough to accommodate the extra heat load of the A/C systems. 
If the tractor cooling system was not designed to accommodate this extra heat load, it may not ever keep the engine cool with the A/C system running and you may need to do some upgrades to the cooling system. 
I hope this helps. If you will post what you find after doing these things, I can help you further.
Carl.


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## marc_hanna

Quick question: what rpm are you running the tractor at?


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## cshortt

If he is mowing, assuming the PTO is at 540, then the engine should be up around 2K RPM.


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## marc_hanna

That would be the correct way of doing it, but it's possible he is running at a lower rpm to reduce the engine noise. Even if it still mows fine, the rad fan and coolant pump would be running too slow, and if he is maxing out the hp, the engine would be producing more heat especially with the A/C on. Therefore, running the engine at a higher rpm can reduce operating temperature while producing the same power output because the cooling capability is increased. 

As we all know, a Diesel engine produces more power by injecting more fuel, and this does not directly correlate with engine RPM (unlike a gas engine). More fuel = more combustion = more heat. 

Just a shot in the dark.


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## cshortt

Oh, I'm not doubting you. I was just assuming he was running the correct RPM..


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## marc_hanna

No worries, that was my very point though, how can we be sure that the OP is operating at the correct RPM.

I've read a few posts in other threads/forums where it was evident that a good number of people are not aware of the correct operation of their tractor.


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## ellispatterson

I"am having the same problem with 4510c mahindra overheating no one came up with a good salution.well i'am going to add a fan in front of my rad. one thing i do know its needs more coolant to move around that would solve a lot of the problem. A bigger radiator that will hold more coolant but the room is the problem.


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## ellispatterson

you would think the factory would come up with a fix they designed that tractor.


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## BDNPQ

I have actually added an electric fan in front of my radiator. It made little if any difference at all. 
I agree that it probably needs a larger radiator. When my tractor almost reaches the Hot mark if i turn the AC off for 10 - 15 min just to cool it down to enough to continue using it. 
I would sure like to find a real solution to the Overheating issue. 



ellispatterson said:


> I"am having the same problem with 4510c mahindra overheating no one came up with a good salution.well i'am going to add a fan in front of my rad. one thing i do know its needs more coolant to move around that would solve a lot of the problem. A bigger radiator that will hold more coolant but the room is the problem.


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## willys55

have either of you ever noticed a slimy engine oil condition when you check your oil level, have either one of you ever had to add coolant? Is there any strange colorful streaks in the coolant?


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## Cookieman

We had a race car that would always overheat with us on a dirt track. It took about 20 races to figure out why..The fin for the water on the radiator was going up and down.Not across as you see it now on most things.This was because the water was going through the radiator so fast it could not cool down any.I would think if your radiator is across to left to right, then the thermostat is open all the time and not slowing down the water so it can cool off some.If all the things above does not work to fix this, I would add a radiator someplace on it to help with cooling your water.it not good to keep it so warm for long times.Maybe just add a big three gals tank of water to help cycle with it..I first thought was the mower was using all that tractor had to keep it going and it was max out.Like a six cyc. and needs a 8 cyc..I found out, my is a series 4 tractor that used things for about 35 to 47 hp to run.If you running something that need a 100 hp to run that would be a big heating problem.Good luck on any that help you get it fixs.


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## willys55

my dear friend that passed away last year, Dick Roy, of Roy Company in Branchville, was a Mahindra dealer, I remember when they first started coming into the state, Dick dried his dam best to get me to buy one, but I held onto my 3930, she was a good machine....anyway I stopped in there a few years later to get a part the the manure spreader and they had three that were split and getting new engines installed. I asked why and he told me that although these machines look alot like the international tractor and engine , the casting on the blocks was sub standard and the material between the wet sleeves was cracking causing severe overheating issues with compression gas leaking into the coolant.......was also told by one of the techs there that many dealers across the state were keeping it quiet the best they could and playing dumb because they didnt want to increase warranty claims and loose sales.
Well this concludes my gossip for the day.


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## Todd Avant

This is what I did, I got a pressure treated 2x4 and drilled 4 spaces out of it with a 1 1/4" hole saw. Then I drilled out the 1/4" pilot hole to 3/8". I removed the ac cooling radiator and spaced it off of the radiator with this spacers. This will give you an 1 1/2" more air flow going to your cooling radiator. Helped me tremendously. You will still have to clean it periodically, but this made a world of difference for me. Also, I did not realize this, but after talking to a Mahindra mechanic, he told me to run this tractor at 2500 rpm when bush hogging. This has made a big difference also. I run it at least 2000 rpm now even if I am not bush hogging. This made a big difference for me also. The ac unit uses more hp than you realize. I was at my wits end with this problem but now she runs like a different tractor. I hope that this helps.


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## sixbales

In reading on the internet, I noticed that others have had problems with a 4510 overheating, which indicates a marginal design of the cooling system. I would take the radiator to a radiator repair shop and have them add another core section to it. Of course, you will have to make modifications to re-mount it.


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## BDNPQ

It appears I have finally solved my overheating problem. I took the screen in front of the AC Condenser off completely and cleaned it, took the bolts out of the AC Condenser and got it raised up enough to do a complete and thorough washing out of it, and then was able to access the radiator so that I could wash it out thoroughly. Apparently what had sifted through as dirt over the years and collected in the radiator fins had been turned into mud once it got damp from trying to wash it out and simply clogged the radiator restricting air flow. Since I performed this thorough cleaning and reassembled everything, the temperature hasn't raised even to the 1/2 way mark. Thanks for all of the comments and help in trying to determine what was going on. 

Billy D


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## willys55

AWESOME BILLY !!!!!


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## Ed4510

I have a 2009 Mahindra 4510 and had very similar issues - I do work it hard mainly bush hogging hilly fields with a HD 6’ hog that really needs 45hp at pto instead of the 36 the 4510 puts out. On another forum I started a thread on this overheating issue, and I did pick up one really good tip there to go to the HomeDepot and get one of those universal plastic mesh HVAC filters and use in front of radiator to help keep it clean. The radiator and AC condenser are real dirt magnets - at least with what I do brush mowing. I did several things to solve my over heat issues, besides cleaning the radiator out more ofter with compressed air (as one post warned do not use pressure washer as it wii bend radiator fins) is to do what was suggested a few posts back by spacing the AC condenser more from the radiator. The heat removal ability is propotional to the Tin of air entering the radiator to the Tout of air exiting it - the cooler the air in the better it performs. The condenser increases the Tin which is its Tout so creating a gap helps all the way around. The 4 bolts holding the condenser onto the front of the radiator are metric, I was able to find metric studs the same size that were long enough to accomadate a 1/2” pipe nipple cut down to about 1.5-1.74” long (painted black they look pretty good as well) between the condenser tabs and radiator with washers at both ends. A metric nut over washer secured the condenser to studs and radiator. This was a big improvement. Then the next thing I did was to mount a thin fan in front of the condenser (Bosh 0130703200) using a 3/4 inch plywood cut to shape to fit in front with large hole cutout for fan. I got my fan off old mercedes in junk yard for few bucks - size wize it is great but does draw like 20.8 amp so don’t know if this may be best option, but so far seems to work well - I use manual swith through a relay to turn on and off as needed. Hope this helps!


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## William hughes

Saturate radiator front and back with simple Green let soak for 15 to 20minutes wash thoroughly with water hose front and back it should clean it out where you can see through the fens


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