# Simplicity Starting problems



## Fentex (Jun 11, 2011)

Hey Folks, I have a 1967 Simplicity Landlord that was running good last season. This year however, I'm not getting any spark to the plug. I've checked everything I can see and can't seem to find the problem.
I bought this tractor last year from an older gentleman who has since died. He told me if I ever had any problems just call. Well, that is most definitely a long distance call.
I have found operators manuals, parts manuals on the tractor as well as the 12hp B&S engine it has on it.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks, Gary


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Welcome to the forum,Gary! First,make sure the battery is fully charged.Then, look for the points.They should be under a domed cover,that's held on with two screws.Remove the cover,and you'll see the points.You'll know which cover,as the condenser is usually outside of it ,and held on by one of the screws.Next,roll the engine over(it's easier with the sparkplug removed),and see if the points are opening,and closing.If they are,and youdon't see sparks,replace the condenser.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

If you are replacing the condenser, you will also want to replace the points. What happens is the points either get corroded if they were open when it was stored, or they get burned because the condenser failed. The condenser acts like a sponge in the system, soaking up the current when the points open so they don't arc. When the condenser fails, the points arc each time they open, slowly burning up the surface of the points. Once they get burned badly enough, they can no longer conduct electricity, and you have no spark. They are part of the ground system for the coil. When they open, the current that was being induced in the coil and was flowing through the points to ground can no longer flow. That causes the magnetic field that was surrounding the wires in the windings (because of the current) to collapse through the secondary windings, inducing current in them which travels to the spark plug and arcs across it to ground. If the points don't have good continuity, then the initial current isn't generated, and the coil doesn't function.

It doesn't pay to just replace one component or the other. If you are replacing the points, replace the condenser and vice versa.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*points set*

Gary,for now,just CHECK the points.If they aren't burned,or pitted,just clean them,and reset the gap.Those points sets cost around $45.00,and are not easy to get.I'm pretty sure your engine is a 230000,or240000,model#,cast iron block,and if the previous owner replaced a piston,he may have installed an undersized pusher pin.you wouldn't be able to tell,without pulling the engine down,and measuring it,and the points actually take a different set#,than stock.That would throw the clearance settings off,for the points. The points should be gapped to .012-.014.I've worked on these engines for nearly30 years,and those cast-iron block types can be a pain to work on.As for the condenser,just use a .25mf condenser for a car,as long as it has the wire with the eyelet.


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## Fentex (Jun 11, 2011)

*Thanks*

Thanks for the quick reply. I will be checking those points and condenser shortly.
I'll let you know how I make out.


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## Fentex (Jun 11, 2011)

*Got it runnin*

Hey again, I found the points and condenser at a local Briggs dealer, The box with the points looked like it had been sitting on the shelf for a long time. Changed those out and got it running good.

Now on to other problems. Mainly mowing deck problems. Threw a belt off,one on the deck that spins the blades and the other one that goes to the pto. Will get there soon.

Thanks for the responses and help.

Gary


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