# Ford 7000 seperated gearbox from diff, PTO no longer works



## ford_guy (Feb 3, 2018)

Hi guys, I'm looking for some advice as I'm very unsure of where to proceed. I just finished putting the ford back together after replacing the gearbox. I dropped in a gearbox that was exactly the same. I ran into some issues aligning the shafts into the diff and had to raise the hydraulic lift cover. The drive shaft aligned easily enough but the PTO shaft was a bit of a pain. I put it in with the clutch on it then from the top put the band around it and aligned it into position. Everything seemed to fit. Now after putting the engine back in and every other thing the PTO does not work at all. It did before pulling the tractor apart. 

I'm pretty sure that after I had aligned it and put the band around it, I was able to turn it (at the rear of the tractor by hand) when not engaged. Now after starting the tractor and driving it, it does not engage when the lever is pulled. Also a lot of heat is felt on the diff housing which implies that the clutch is slipping. Also now I can't turn the PTO by hand. 

My plan of attack is to drain the hydraulic oil and raise the hydraulic lift cover again and see if I can see anything. If anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated! I will follow up with pictures after I lift the hydraulic lift cover again.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Go to the Ford New Holland transmission parts diagram and pay attention to part #70 and focus on the actuating arm and linkage once you know the hydraulic cylinder is properly pushing it according to the repair manual.

Usual post rebuild issue is the hydraulic PTO control valve is leaking or the linkage to that valve is not properly adjusted.


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## ford_guy (Feb 3, 2018)

Just having a look at that diagram, part 16 the 3 rings, the breaks in the clips meant to be in alignment?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Your best bet at this point is remove the lift cover again, then pull the pto clutch out completely. I suspect you may have an issue with a disc or two and the splined hub they ride/drive on. At any rate a thorough inspection of the clutch is in order by now. Since the cover has been off once, it will go much faster the second time. Funny how that works. 
And no, the seal ring gaps are not meant to be aligned.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

You might want to check your PTO operating pressure. Should be in range of about 120-160 psi. Check your manual for correct pressure range. Your PTO brake is set when the clutch pack is not engaged (no pressure applied to clutch pack). If the PTO brake is working, you should not be able to turn the PTO shaft.


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## ford_guy (Feb 3, 2018)

Fedup said:


> Your best bet at this point is remove the lift cover again, then pull the pto clutch out completely. I suspect you may have an issue with a disc or two and the splined hub they ride/drive on. At any rate a thorough inspection of the clutch is in order by now. Since the cover has been off once, it will go much faster the second time. Funny how that works.
> And no, the seal ring gaps are not meant to be aligned.


It won't be possible to remove the clutch without having to separate the diff and gearbox again won't it?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Unless your tractor has load monitor, you won't need to split it. Remove the lift cover and the top pto shaft, The complete clutch assembly will then come out the top.


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## ford_guy (Feb 3, 2018)

It has load monitor, so it will need to be split then.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Lucky you. I may have missed it in your earlier posts, but what manual(s) are you using for reference while attempting all this? While not always critical, correct procedural information is usually helpful depending on your experience/skill level at this sort of thing.
I've split any number of that series tractor and have leaned first hand how easily the PTO drive hub can slip out of place and drop out of a disc (or two) while attempting to pull the two halves together. Proper alignment of the halves is key, and "sorta close" is seldom good enough. This alignment can be hard to accomplish when attempted with a combination of floor jacks, bottle jacks, blocks and cribbing which can make up/down, and side to side adjustments difficult (or impossible). It's hard to offer helpful suggestions not knowing what your support equipment consists of , or your technique for joining the two halves.


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## ford_guy (Feb 3, 2018)

The manual I've been using is "1965-1975 FORD TRACTOR SERVICE MANUAL", this one here: http://www.dadzoolife.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/ford_tractor_2000-7000_1975-1975.pdf 

Unfortunately it's very light weight on details and I have just been working my way through things. The way I joined the 2 halves was with building an overhead frame and hanging the gearbox with 2 adjustable chains on a slider off the frame so that we could easily slide back and forth. I aligned the gearbox by putting threaded rod through the bolt holes. 

From the way it sounds and along with thinking about it, it must of been something in the clutch that either got crushed or misaligned when I rejoined the 2 pieces. So my plan now is to separate and look into the clutch as think that is where my problem will be. I'll report back when I get some time to actually do it. Thanks for the advice so far.


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## Krispax (Jul 26, 2018)

Did you find the problem already? My pto drum gets very hot and heating up the oil in the diff housing. I replaced the pto package but no improvement. Pto and brake are working but after 30 minutes I have to stop the tractor because of the diff housing is getting very hot.


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## ford_guy (Feb 3, 2018)

So I pulled it apart again and found that the clutch was pretty messed up, it hadn't been aligned properly and basically is stuffed. So I have ordered a new one. I had the heat problem when I gave it a test run so that could be yours as well.


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