# ford 5000 diesel stalled and does not restart



## iain (Dec 2, 2014)

Ford 5000 diesel Selectomatic with Simms Injector pump

My tractor stalled whilst in motion, but not under heavy load and would not restart.
I suspected a fuel issue as a "mate" may have refuelled with old fuel.
I replaced the fuel filters. Emptied out the fuel tank and replaced with clean fuel. Replaced fuel pump. There was a small amount of water in the bottom of the fuel pump and the filter.
Attempted to bleed - from fuel filters, then injector pump, then injector lines.
Tractor still would not start. I then used ether and it started, I left idling for a while to remove air. But as soon as I attempted to move, the tractor stalled and would not start again.
(does the Simms injector pump have a filter?)
I would appreciate any suggestions on how to fix
thanks


Note that this my first post in this forum!


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Welcome to the forum !
I don't know if the pump has a filter,but,if the system was not fully bled(sometimes it takes 2-3 times),it could still have air in it.
Also,check the fuel pick-up tube,and since it should have an oil-bath air filter,check it also.
A couple of other things to check is the pump timing,and pressure.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

John above pretty much covered it, and welcome to the forum!.


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## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

G'Day Mate,

Greetings from across the sea.

I agree with John, these diesels can be ornery to start once air is introduced into the fuel system. 

I cannot see a filter at the inlet to the Simms pump (CAV pumps have an inlet filter}. It does have a priming lever. See attached diagram. 

There is a filter/screen attached to the fuel tank shut-off valve that sits up inside the tank. If it is plugged, you are not going to get fuel. 

I once had an obstruction in the fuel line to the filter from the fuel tank. Check that you have a rush flow of fuel from the tank to the fuel filters. If the flow is feeble or intermittent, clean the fuel screen in the tank. 

Attached are diagrams of your tractor's fuel system. Hope these help.

Are you getting diesel return flow from the injectors to the fuel tank when you crank? 

Note that a Simms requires a periodic oil change. Change oil in the pump every time you change the engine oil.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

There is a bleeder screw on the Simms pump. Loosen the bleed screw on side of head and get air out. See item #6 on the Simms Injection Pump diagram above.


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## iain (Dec 2, 2014)

Thank you all for your advice.
I looked at the oil bath air cleaner. Its oil was white. Looks like it had water in it. Don't know how it got there. Maybe through the pre cleaner? Hopefully not done any damage to the engine? Anyway, I plan to clean the filter, replace the oil and then try to bleed again.


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## iain (Dec 2, 2014)

I've found the solution to the problem. The excess fuel button on the injector pump was stuck, reducing the fuel flow. Hopefully all good now!


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

iain said:


> Ford 5000 diesel Selectomatic with Simms Injector pump.


Glad you got it sorted out.
One thing I will say though is there is no such thing as a Ford selectomatic.
Now repeat after me:
It's a Select O Speed.
It's a Select O Speed.
It's a Select O Speed.


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## Gene Horton (May 16, 2018)

I need to know if this fixed the problem? My tractor Ford 5000 256 4 cylinder is doing the exact same thing. I can bleed the lines and it will run and then shut down. One line has no fuel coming out when I crack it to bleed. Strangely though it runs good even with no fuel coming to that injector until it shuts down. The other three lines squirt good. Local mechanic said it was the main fuel pump. From $600 to $3000 depending on what is wrong. Help!!


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Take the line loose ,at the pump end,and see if it flows.
If it does, you may have a clogged line,...if not, it COULD be a bad pump.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

You HAVE TO BE CAREFUL.. IF the pump end [delivery valve holder] comes loose, your screwed..
More than likely the plunger spring has broken..
Remove the side cover.. 2-1/2" screws.. & LOOK to see if the spring is broken.


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## Gene Horton (May 16, 2018)

thepumpguysc said:


> You HAVE TO BE CAREFUL.. IF the pump end [delivery valve holder] comes loose, your screwed..
> More than likely the plunger spring has broken..
> Remove the side cover.. 2-1/2" screws.. & LOOK to see if the spring is broken.


I did take the side cover off, on the right side I could see the one spring is still in tact. However I cannot see the other springs to see if one is broke.


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## Gene Horton (May 16, 2018)

I did take the side cover off, on the right side I could see the one spring is still in tact. However I cannot see the other springs to see if one is broke.


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## Gene Horton (May 16, 2018)

I also have a problem with my three point hitch. It will not raise up. The Hydraulic pump is still sending pressure to my lines, so I think the pump is ok. However the three point hitch will not raise. I man handled the arms and dropped them several time to create a jar to see if that would loosen something up to no avail. If I take the top off of the housing is there a secondary pump for the three point hitch? Thanks guys


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Inorder to get the adaptors out, you turn them to the side & slide them out of the grooves.. 1 groove on top & 1 on the bottom..
They may also have a screw keeper on top.. a 5/16.. just unscrew the screw & turn the adaptors..
Did it look like a baby took a dump inside the pump?? Mushy brown lookin stuff?


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## Gene Horton (May 16, 2018)

No it was clean


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## LarryinSC (Aug 13, 2020)

Gene Horton said:


> I also have a problem with my three point hitch. It will not raise up. The Hydraulic pump is still sending pressure to my lines, so I think the pump is ok. However the three point hitch will not raise. I man handled the arms and dropped them several time to create a jar to see if that would loosen something up to no avail. If I take the top off of the housing is there a secondary pump for the three point hitch? Thanks guys


I know this is a year late, but just to say that the unloader valve can get stuck and the lift won't respond. If that is the issue, you have to pull the lift cover. The unload valve is right next to the control valve in the valve body, and is operated by hydraulic pressure only. I just freed the one in my 5000 project tractor. The valve should move freely with a magnetic pickup on the end of the spool. If it doesn't , you have to remove the plate on the opposite end and tap the valve out and clean/inspect/repair. If it is stuck all the way in, it just dumps the oil and no lift action will take place. see pic.


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