# 41 9N Won't Start



## 41-9N (Feb 2, 2006)

My 9n (12v) will not start. The button switch will not work. I've jumped the starter with the battery, but I cannot get the motor to turnover. Is this a coil problem?


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

41-9N,

First Welcome...

I am not an "N" guy and have little experience, and there are many here that do. But starters are starters...and I don't think a coil is the problem for initial startup.

You're saying that a direcct jump to the starter solenoid gives you nothing, no spin at the starter at all?

Mark


----------



## 41-9N (Feb 2, 2006)

Thank you for the welcome. 

No. I am getting the starter to spin by jumping from battery to starter. The engine just wont turnover. (No fire) 

I feel that if the key or the push-button switch were the culprit, then the motor would turnover and stay cranked with this "bypass".


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

OK, got'cha. 

I Think the first thing I would look at are the points....first with a test light (or VOM) and see if they are (A) hot and (B) opening and closing all the way. If they are good, I would pull a plug, insert it back into plug wire and ground it against the block and see if you're getting a decent spark...

............then I would stall untill some one smarter than me with "N's" jumps on board to help us both out  .

Seriously, if there is a problem with points not being hot, it might be something as simple as no positive from ignition to the points.
(one simple jumper wire may fix it temporarily)

Mark


----------



## DrBailey (Nov 14, 2004)

welcome 41-9N
run a jumper wire from the hot side of your battery to the stud connector on top of your coil.
install a spark plug in any one of your plug wires. hold the sparkplug against the head or block. crank the engine over , see if theres fire at the plug.
If not , then my guess is the points, 99% of the time .
If you are running a 12 volt system , then you should be running a 12 Volt coil.
If you install new points , remove the coil and cap. two short bolts hold the distributor on . remove them and do your points on a work bench. thus you can change them easier and get a good settin on the points . Gap 18 thousands
Dont worry about the timeing , the distributor only go`s back on one way. Don`t force anything . Good luck


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

DrB..

I was close right?? Too bad he didn't ask me about a Yanmar  Glad you were around to help him out.

Mark


----------



## DrBailey (Nov 14, 2004)

> _Originally posted by mark777 _
> *DrB..
> 
> I was close right?? Too bad he didn't ask me about a Yanmar  Glad you were around to help him out.
> ...


 I bet you could start anything , On some questions , I wish THAT tractor was setting right there in front of me. Then we can have fun !!
No way that I could discribe a Yanmar either.
Have a good weekend Mark , hope your team wins , LoL


----------



## Fordfarm (Dec 27, 2005)

This may sound odd, but did you happen to replace the Amp guage? I replaced mine and the new one wires up different and it isolated the switch curcuit. I by-passed the guage and she fired right up! Just check your wires and don't get frustrated, it WILL run!


----------



## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Any update on this checkout work, 41-9N? Believe me as an owner and rebuilder of several Ns over the last 10 years, I can tell you that sometimes they can be a pain. In my experience and opinion, if you have the time, replace the entire electrical system. Use good wire, connectors, and do it right. As a buddy of mine at another site used to say, "Make sure they are bright and tight!" (clean and well-fastened) 

I have seen more little mysterious things occur in the electronics than anywhere else....also check the coil, and verify you have the proper voltage hitting it, and if 6V you have the proper ballast resistor inline to prevent burnup. Let us know what you find! 

Thanks
Andy


----------



## 41-9N (Feb 2, 2006)

I'm going to start by trying to find an original starter button switch. Then I will replace the coil. Then the wireharness. If I do things in this order, then I feel I will solve my problem. I miss my tractor


----------



## OleGrandWizard (Jan 9, 2006)

Keep the faith, 9N. These Ford N-series tractors were built to last and while they can be very tempermental at times, they are an asy tractor to work on and rebuild. Keep us posted of your progress and findings. Good luck.

Bye


----------



## 41-9N (Feb 2, 2006)

I changed the starter switch and the resistor. The tractor cranked using the original starter button (at base of gear shift) and ran for about 30 sec. It would not crank the conventional way since. I then jumped the starter with the battery and used the tractor all day Sat. I did try running a jumper cable from the "in" side of the starter switch to the starter and nothing happened.

Any suggestions?


----------



## John-in-Ga (Sep 22, 2003)

Hi 49-9n

First let me say Welcome to the Tractorforum. I’m sure we can get your tractor starting as it should. Even if we have to enlist the help of another site. 

A couple of your post have been a little confusing but if you can get it to crank and run by jumping from the battery to the starter that pretty much rules out the starter, battery, point, condenser, coil, sparkplugs, and cylinder compression. You also say you have replaced the starter switch.

You say “I did try running a jumper cable from the "in" side of the starter switch to the starter and nothing happened.” Then you say “I then jumped the starter with the battery and used the tractor all day…..” 
If you used a heavy jumper cable and made good connections, I don’t know why jumping from the “in” side of the starter switch to the starter didn’t start your tractor. The way I understand the 9n starter switch and what you are doing it would be the same as jumping from the battery to the starter, perhaps a little harder to make good connections with your jumper cable? 

Try the link below and see if that sounds like your problem. If so there is a remedy given for it.

Funny acting starter button


----------



## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

Either I'm toast or I had a moon shot land on the back side of Pluto with my last post!! I'll retry the magic keyboard again!!

Welcome 41, My very best year BTW and all since then have been on a slippery slope south!!

John has in my HO solved the problematic starting difficulity that you are experiencing!! Leave it to a Red-Neck!!


----------



## 41-9N (Feb 2, 2006)

Well it's been three years since this tractor issue started and I finally decided to have the entire engine rebuilt due to other larger problems. Tractor runs fine with the exception of most recently having to keep the choke pulled all the way out for it to run. Any suggestions why? This just started today after using the tractor for about 45min.


----------



## PHSCTE (Aug 12, 2013)

I am new to the post ing bit, but If you have to have the choke pulled for it to run, I have noticed one of two things either, you have clogged fuel line, there are three filters, or your carburetor is seriously misadjusted. Start with the fuel filters, there is the fuel bowl, and the elbow right where it enters the carburetor, make sure to turn off the gas first! its a mess if you forget.


----------



## Ironeye (Apr 18, 2013)

Try kicking it


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

If kicking it doesn't work, you need to clean the carb, empty the rust out of the sediment bowl (if there is some) make sure you have fresh fuel, and if you have fuel filters in the line, I'd take them out and just use the sediment bowl as they were designed to do.


----------



## Ironeye (Apr 18, 2013)

Over time the fuel filter can get rust in it preventing it from running strait so clean out the fuel filter


----------



## Ken N Tx (Sep 20, 2003)

Ironeye said:


> Over time the fuel filter can get rust in it preventing it from running strait so clean out the fuel filter


This Thread was from 2006!! Hopefully he has it running by now!!! edro:


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Too Funny!


----------



## Ironeye (Apr 18, 2013)

Ken N Tx said:


> This Thread was from 2006!! Hopefully he has it running by now!!! edro:


Yeah I think that means that I should check the date next time


----------

