# Need Info on Shibaura SD1803 Hydraulics



## bphogue4 (Oct 2, 2013)

My lift quit 'lifting'. I have not been able to find info on troubleshooting the hydraulics on my Shibaura SD1803, and I hope someone here can steer me right. 

First, it looks like there's only 1 filler hole for both transmission and hydraulics, 1 drain plug, and 1 dipstick. If this is the case, what is the proper fluid to use, gear oil or hydraulic fluid?

Next, can somebody point me to troubleshooting steps that would be relevant to this tractor? I understand that Shibaura made parts for Ford/New Holland, so maybe there's something I could use that relates to a Ford tractor model? Which model?

The controls on this rig have always been a mystery to me, although I've been able to figure out a way to get the lift up and down (when it was lifting). I know I don't understand all the capabilities, though. The controls are electrical, with a 3-position toggle lever, a rheostat (for lack of a better term), a 3-position toggle switch, and a knob that just keeps turning. Can someone explain the function of these?

I've done a bit of engine work, but nothing in the hydraulics area. I need this tractor for a fence-building project real soon. Hope somebody out there can point me in a good direction. Thanks in advance.

Ben
San Leanna TX


----------



## tomf (Oct 17, 2012)

The 2nd picture is the hydraulic filter. Looks exactly like a Ford hydraulic filter. Take the cap off a clean the filter inside. Use an air compressor being careful not to damage the filter. A clogged filter could be the problem as I had such an issue with my Ford. Obviously make sure you have enough hydraulic fluid. Should be more than one drain imho. I would use hydraulic fluid which probably is used for hydraulics, transmission, rear end, and 4 wheel drive if you have it. Again imho


----------



## bphogue4 (Oct 2, 2013)

*Thanks, tomf*

If that is a filter next to the pump, I assume I can open that drain hole and the filler hole on top, drain it, maybe run some clean fluid through it, and blow it out? Is that what I'd do? Do I fill it again to 'prime the pump'?

What model is your Ford? Maybe I can find some specific info on the Ford hydraulics and use that with my Shibaura. I'm really reluctant to tear into this without knowing what I might screw up in the process. I already managed to get too much fluid in the reservoir, and probably not the correct fluid, either. Luckily, I didn't drive it after I put more fluid in, so I can drain it and start over. 

I thought there might be a filter inside the reservoir, where the low pressure line leaves it. But if it's next to the pump, there probably isn't another one. Do you have a recommended fluid for your Ford? Does your Ford use the same reservoir for transmission and hydraulics?

Thanks again. Really need to get this thing back to work. I just retired, and I have a lot of projects to get moving on.

B.


----------



## tomf (Oct 17, 2012)

First I want to be clear I am anything but an expert. I have only learned by trial and error and a knowledgeable father in law who on occasion lends me a hand. 

I have a Ford 1310 which has a Shibaura engine.

The black tube like device is the hydraulic filter. As you look at the device one of the bolts on the left will allow you to remove the filter chamber. You will need to pull the metal line from the rubber line below. Should be a clamp keeping the two lines tight. The cap on the right will have a bolt to take off to remove the cap. The filter will be inside. Carefully clean the filter preferably using an air hose. Carefully as these filters are hard to replace at least I have not found one. The filter will be clogged with gunk and metal shavings. The metal shavings are probably jamming the filter, if it is plugged, more than the gunk. I did not have to prime. Your tractor I am not sure.

This is the first step I would take. It should be done anyway.

I would also try and change the hydraulic fluid. I still believe you should have more than one drain plug. I think. My tractor uses the hydraulic fluid for the hydraulics, the transmission, the rear end, and the four wheel drive. Four plugs. Yours may be different I have no idea. I bought my hydraulic fluid, standard hydraulic fluid at an Auto Zone. Seems to work fine.

You need to find a manual. Will not come close to answering all your questions but will answer a lot such as drain plugs, etc. Try ebay.

Good luck. Let us know how you are doing.


----------



## bphogue4 (Oct 2, 2013)

Thanks, tomf. This is exactly the kind of info I was hoping to get. I will start with what you suggest, including new hydraulic fluid. I suspect there is nothing more serious going on than clogged lines. 

Do you recognize the lift controls? Most of my experience is with old tractors (9N, Ferguson, old Allis Chalmers) and I've never seen electric controls like these. I can make it work, but I'm probably not getting all the functionality it has to offer.

B.


----------



## bphogue4 (Oct 2, 2013)

UPDATE. I cleaned out the filter and changed the hydro/transmission fluid, and the lift now works. It still bleeds down pretty quickly, but I can deal with that for now. 

Still don't understand all the control settings, but I can make the lift go up and down.

Thanks for your help!

B.


----------



## tomf (Oct 17, 2012)

Great news. Enjoy.


----------



## Wildan38225 (Sep 25, 2015)

There is also a filter screen on the side of the transmission torwards the back. I think it has 3 bolts on it. It needs to be cleaned also. You can run 15w40 rotella motor oil instead of hydro fluid. Regular hydro fluid will work also. The 1803 I have had two electric sylanoids that control the lift. I wish I could take it off and swap it with a old fashioned manual type. Anyone have suggestions on how to do that?


----------



## Tim Ogle (Dec 12, 2018)

bphogue4 said:


> UPDATE. I cleaned out the filter and changed the hydro/transmission fluid, and the lift now works. It still bleeds down pretty quickly, but I can deal with that for now.
> 
> Still don't understand all the control settings, but I can make the lift go up and down.
> 
> ...


 So if I understand this right you fill the hydraulic fluid behind the seat. you check it between your feet with the dipstick that’s in the transmission case ??


----------



## tim Barricklow (Jan 14, 2019)

My shibaura runs with automatic trans fluid as the gear, hydraulic oil and has for 20 years. I am getting a hum/whine out of my trans when driving but not when idling. As for the quick 3pt lift dropping too fast, under my seat on the "right cheek" side is a flat lever that is near the filter that controls the hydraulic bypass valve to slow or speed up the drop rate. Thanks for the filter info. I think that may be my whine culprit.


----------



## Tommy boy (Sep 8, 2020)

Wildan38225 said:


> There is also a filter screen on the side of the transmission torwards the back. I think it has 3 bolts on it. It needs to be cleaned also. You can run 15w40 rotella motor oil instead of hydro fluid. Regular hydro fluid will work also. The 1803 I have had two electric sylanoids that control the lift. I wish I could take it off and swap it with a old fashioned manual type. Anyone have suggestions on how to do that?


 You can do that I have a 2643 that a guy I bought it from took an aluminum block drilled holes and recessed o rings in it to a manual valve


----------



## Tommy boy (Sep 8, 2020)

bphogue4 said:


> UPDATE. I cleaned out the filter and changed the hydro/transmission fluid, and the lift now works. It still bleeds down pretty quickly, but I can deal with that for now.
> 
> Still don't understand all the control settings, but I can make the lift go up and down.
> 
> ...


 The bleeding down will be the o ring on the hydrolic lift cylinder took mine apart it was shot hard to find o ring tho. Had a machine shop cut my piston down to use a more standard o ring I can supply the o ring part number tho if u need it. It's $55


----------

