# oil leak of hundred serial ford



## wjkrostek (Aug 31, 2013)

I cant find my shop manual and I cant seem to post the picture. Just hasn't been my year. Forum shows it was up loaded but then what? Anyway oil is coming right under the crank pully but you cant see that deep. How hard and how much has to be taken apart to fix this leak? Are there other things to could leak and come out at the bottom of the crank? Does anyone know where on the web I can find a break down of the front end oil seal area so I can see what I need to do. I just can't find my book. I probably lent it to some one and never got it back. I hear there is an additive called AT204 to stop leaks. Anyone try that? thanks


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Not an expert but werry of these stop leak additives. If it will seal a leak what else will it seal. Oil ports, filters, pick up screen, ect. I would use it if I want just a few more months out of it and then scrap it. These are just my thoughts. Sorry I can't help you with your crankshaft seal. I'm sure someone will chime in and help. Good luck


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If you are referring to an early Ford 9N, 2N or 8N, the main seals are a rope type and will not swell by using one of the additives that temporarily cause the rubber type to rejuvenate and then disintegrate in short order. 

Here is a diagram: http://www.robertstractor.com/Ford-2N-8N-9N-Assemblies_ep_45-1.html

If this the model series tractor to which you refer they are very difficult to replace the main seals without the new seals locking the crankshaft. It is recommended the crank be pulled and the top half of the new seal be seated so it is nearly flat in the groove before seating the crank. These seals tend to clamp on to the crank and make it nearly impossible to spin unless the crank is rolled over as they are tightened into place.


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## wjkrostek (Aug 31, 2013)

Thanks for your response I should of made it clear. It's a 941 as near as I can tell. seems to be made up of some parts of at least one other tractor. the tranny says its a 621 as the tranny fits all of the hundred series. she has been around the block a few times. Nice diagram. I checked and there isn't one for the hundred series on that site any way . Is it a two piece seal? drop the crank from the bottom or are you saying take the whole engine out? I'll have to find someone that changes their oil every 3000 miles and just keep topping her off. She has a good strong engine just the drip from the front makes a mess on the trailer. I did some reading on the AT205 and it is clear and like water. does not harden or clog. .Just softens the seals so the spring can close it off better. I read that some pros but it on new seals when they replace them so there are no leaks. I have never believed in this additive stuff but at 15 bucks it might be worth a try. I was hoping many of you had tried it and say it works.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The basic lower block and seal design is the same. You may be able to obtain aftermarket neoprene seals for the 941. 

The OEM seals on the 941 (and all of the 600 type engines 100 series gas engines) are fiber/rope and they will not swell with the seal additive. If by some chance the engine has been rebuilt with neoprene seals, with a leak that clearly leaves a clean trace where the oil has been leaking those miracle sealants will not work. 

I recommend you pick up the repair manual and also chat with a local mechanic that is familiar with the engine. Trying to pull the oiled rope seals through without pulling the crankshaft and flattening the upper half of the seal with the tool for that purpose, or a large diameter socket on its side, almost always results in a locked crankshaft. 

New rope seals typically require 240 ft lb to turn the crank until they seat and break in. 

If you know someone that collects or restores Model A Ford cars, they will be a source of invaluable advice for a successful seal replacement. 

If you can find the neoprene seals they can be rolled into place with the proper tool to avoid scoring the crankshaft, but require a modification to the pan gasket to remove the ears on the front saddle, then sealing with one of the better RTV sealants.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

wjkrostek said:


> I cant find my shop manual and I cant seem to post the picture. Just hasn't been my year. Forum shows it was up loaded but then what? Anyway oil is coming right under the crank pully but you cant see that deep. How hard and how much has to be taken apart to fix this leak? Are there other things to could leak and come out at the bottom of the crank? Does anyone know where on the web I can find a break down of the front end oil seal area so I can see what I need to do. I just can't find my book. I probably lent it to some one and never got it back. I hear there is an additive called AT204 to stop leaks. Anyone try that? thanks



If your ford is a 2000-7000 shoot me an msg with your email and i will send you a service manual link for my one drive.

OMF


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## wjkrostek (Aug 31, 2013)

thanks for trying. its a 941 which has the larger 4 banger. I think it is 174 cu inch. Thanks again.


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