# 111 engine removal



## drig (Sep 10, 2010)

Hello everyone,
I have started to tinker with a 111 that needs a new engine. I have tried to remove the engine by taking out the 4 large screws on the base. Also removed the muffler. However, there is still something that prevents the engine from coming out. There is currently about 1/4" play (up-down) and the oil release is not stuck in the frame. Any advice about what I need to do would be greatly appreciated.


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## the professor (Sep 16, 2010)

I have a different mower, but, if your is like mine, you need to look under the mower and see if the PTO Clutch is attached to the engine sheave (shaft running down from the engine). This is the part that connects the engine to your mower deck. You have to remove everything from the engine sheave before the engine will come out.


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## MUTiger72 (Sep 7, 2010)

*Agree: Remove the PTO and Drive sheaves*

I owned a 108 many years ago and have a pair of STX38s now. I just removed the engine from one of the STX38s and the professor is correct: in addition to the four bolts, it is necessary to remove the drive and PTO sheaves to pull the engine. Check JD Parts to see what is attached to the drive shaft.
Jim
Webster Groves, MO


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## drig (Sep 10, 2010)

That makes sense. Thank you professor and Jim.


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## MUTiger72 (Sep 7, 2010)

drig,
P S I found it easier to set the tractor on it's rear end to loosen the four (actually only two engine bolts since two had apparently fallen out -- a typical problem with the aluminum engine/steel bolts in the STX38) and the drive shaft bolt that hold the sheaves on. I actually had to use my air impact rachet wrench to get the drive shaft bolt to "break". I then took the sheaves off while the tractor was on it's rear end. Once the bolts are all loose, put the tractor back on all fours to remove the engine after removing the muffler bolts.
Also, don't forget to use a thread locker on the engine bolts when installing the engine.
Good luck,
Jim
Webster Groves, MO


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## the professor (Sep 16, 2010)

Boy, that would have been good advice when I did mine, especially when reinstalling the pto clutch. My arms and neck were killing me by the time I got everything back on the shaft.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

the professor said:


> Boy, that would have been good advice when I did mine, especially when reinstalling the pto clutch. My arms and neck were killing me by the time I got everything back on the shaft.


Didn't you play on Gilligans Island?


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## MUTiger72 (Sep 7, 2010)

*CAUTION: Drain Oil and Fuel Before Tipping Tractor Up!*

As I noted above, setting your tractor up on it's rear end makes it much easier to loosen the engine mounting bolts and the mower and drive sheaves. It's common sense, but I thought I would mention that, to avoid a mess, drain the fuel tank and oil before setting your tractor on end. I've found the easiest way to drain the fuel tank is close the fuel shut-off and pull the fuel line off near the carburetor, loosen any hold down straps and put the fuel line in your fuel container, reopen the fuel shut-off and -- Viola! -- the fuel will drain into your gas can. You can see the fuel line in the photo below where the engine used to be.
Jim 
Webster Groves, MO


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## Ted Bush (Jun 26, 2010)

I just completed a minor restore and engine swap on a JD 111. See John Deere 111 update. A friend did the engine swap for me, using a B&S 12.5 HP. After that I sanded and painted the tractor and mower deck. It turned out pretty nice. I am going to post another JD 111 update this evening with pictures. I am sure by now you realized that the clutch/pully needs to be removed from the bottom of the crank shaft.


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## rboesch (Feb 6, 2010)

*John Deere 111 PTO removeal*

Hello, Starting to swap out the engine on my 111 and got the carb off and oil drained started to pull the PTO and sheaves but can't get them loose. I got the retaing bolt broke free that was a treat but now I am stuck. If I get that off its 4 bolts and Im hauling the mail bit till then I am stuck. I got it up on its back end(learned that from a post here) and pretty much stumped...any help is appreciated.

Ron


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Its possible some corrosion built up on the end of the crank- causing the PTO not to come off - ive had that happen with a couple crank pulleys - a serious pain to pull them off. Youll most likely need a steering wheel puller or some sort of puller that wont destroy the PTO ( ive wrecked pullies before trying to get them off)- id liberally spray the crank end with PB blaster or WD40 - you might have to push the assembly back on a bit, if a ridge built up. Dont force it off, or youll be looking at a new PTO clutch as well ( whole lots of money).

Just be glad it wasnt like my 88 kleen kut - that thing had a metal 'slug' holding the crank pulley on- i had to cut the pulley off just to pull the motor. I have a picture of it somewhere.


From personal experience about motor bolts - ive had a few motors where the motor bolt wont tighten down - a fix Ive come across is to get a longer bolt ( when possible and doesnt interfere with any parts of the block casting/parts) and either double nut it or use a nylock nut to keep it held down - i also use never seize on the bolts ( steel and aluminum dont mix well together). Ive never had one come loose after that.


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## rboesch (Feb 6, 2010)

Thanks, I think that is what happened here. I will try the puller. I have sprayed it up pretty good already but will do that again. I'll keep you posted.

Thanks Ron


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## rboesch (Feb 6, 2010)

Thanks it worked. Got the clutch and sheaves off. Now I need to line up mark and drill for the new engine. I am swapping out with a cv15s Kohler Command pro. Lined up well with setting it in. Now need to make it stabile and rehook up the underside and it will be ready.

The hood even fit without any modification. Should do well for me this summer.

Thanks Ron


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## rboesch (Feb 6, 2010)

*Complete with engine swap*

Got the engine swapped out and all the electrical hooked up had to add an electric low flow fuel pump and wire it up. Quite a fun situation with since the enfine wasn't aperfect match. Ran it last night a drove it around. Only problem is the steering is really stiff. Does anyone have some ideas how to fix this? I lubed up the shaft and gears below, but to no avail. Any help is always appreciated.
Ron


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Check the spindles- sometimes water gets in there and can rust em up- id jack it up and work my way thru the steering- clean and regrease it.

My 84 dynamark had horrible steering- the one spindle was nearly rusted solid in the front axle- some sandcloth and never seize fixed it right up.


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## rboesch (Feb 6, 2010)

Yep that did the trick on the steering. Light sanding regreased and she spins like nobodies business. No just got to get the exhaust system modified and she will be ready for full time cutting.

Thanks!


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

No problem - glad i could help.


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## daddydojo (Jun 2, 2011)

*111 engine swap*

I'm considering buying a 111 that, except for the blown engine, appears to be in good shape. The seller wants $425 and that includes a fairly new Briggs 12.5 engine. Thing is, he already pulled the blown engine and can't tell me how to reassemble the power train. All the pulleys, engine parts, etc. are in a bucket but without a shop manual I'm not sure I can get it back together with the new engine. A shop manual from Deere is $70 in the door, which means the real price would be more like $500. Any thoughts comments?


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## rboesch (Feb 6, 2010)

*Possibilities*

Hello,

I put a 15 horse kohler on mine works great. Too bad he pulled out the power train....if you sheck around there are manuals and sketches on line. I am leaving for a trip and gone for the week. I will send you what i have and can find but it will be a week. The $25 sounds a little high. I picked up another 111 for $100 with a newer 12hp engine to replace the blown one.

Ill post back soon...good luck


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## daddydojo (Jun 2, 2011)

Thanks for the info, rboesch. I wound up buying it. I misspoke when I said a new Briggs 12.5 and should've said Briggs 15. I know I probably paid a bit much but it's in excellent shape. Looks more like a 2 year old machine and from what I can tell has not been repainted. Also came with the full bagging assembly so I think it will work out. But again, I haven't been able to find squat as far as diagrams online except for the official John Deere CD which, imho, they price astronomically high. Hope you have a good trip out west. Look forward to hearing from you on your return with any insights.


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## daddydojo (Jun 2, 2011)

*Get Back*



rboesch said:


> Hello,
> 
> I put a 15 horse kohler on mine works great. Too bad he pulled out the power train....if you sheck around there are manuals and sketches on line. I am leaving for a trip and gone for the week. I will send you what i have and can find but it will be a week. The $25 sounds a little high. I picked up another 111 for $100 with a newer 12hp engine to replace the blown one.
> 
> Ill post back soon...good luck


Wondering if you made it back yet. Still looking for manuals.


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## rboesch (Feb 6, 2010)

Double check that you removed the PTO and sheaves. With that all out it should come right out. Repowered mine this spring with a kohler command 15hp engine and works great. Just a couple of holes to drill and have to get a muffler on it. As long as I use ear protection and no one is a round it works with the straight pipe for now. If you need some information on the under carriage and wiring here is a good link to look at. Not only does it have the 111 but some other models that use similar JD set ups.

Technical Pages & More


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## rboesch (Feb 6, 2010)

YEp made it back fine and if you link through on my other post you will find some manula pages that are commonally needed. As for the full manual haven't found that either but looking as well. Good luck and keep us posted.


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## daddydojo (Jun 2, 2011)

This is excellent! Thank you very much!!


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