# JD 2010 Transmission/Differential



## Kevin B

I lost all drive on my 2010. I was pushing snow when I couldn't back up or go forward. No loud bangs or booms. No matter what gear I put it in, it wouldn't move. The clutch is working and at the top end of adjustment. I've been preparing to split the case, taking off the loader when I noticed I can push the tractor (with another tractor) even if the shifter is in park. Is the differential/pinion messed up? could the tranny be stuck between gears and not engaging anywhere? Any suggestions?


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## Stephen Newell

> _Originally posted by Kevin B _
> *I lost all drive on my 2010. I was pushing snow when I couldn't back up or go forward. No loud bangs or booms. No matter what gear I put it in, it wouldn't move. The clutch is working and at the top end of adjustment. I've been preparing to split the case, taking off the loader when I noticed I can push the tractor (with another tractor) even if the shifter is in park. Is the differential/pinion messed up? could the tranny be stuck between gears and not engaging anywhere? Any suggestions? *


Try draining the fluid from the transmission into a clean container. It is likely that if anything bad is going on, there will be metal bits in the oil. If the oil is clean I would suspect the clutch.


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## Kevin B

*Re: Re: JD 2010 Transmission/Differential*



> _Originally posted by Stephen Newell _
> *Try draining the fluid from the transmission into a clean container. It is likely that if anything bad is going on, there will be metal bits in the oil. If the oil is clean I would suspect the clutch. *


Thanks, I'll give it a try I was going to drain it before splittig it anyway. I figure since I've got it down this far, I might as well put in a new clutch plate and springs. I hope you are right about the clutch, it will be a lot cheaper and easier to find than a differental and pinion.


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## Live Oak

Kevin, I believe your 2010 has a clutch pack type forward and reverse in the transmission. It is a likely possibility that the clutch pack piston has blown or cut an o-ring seal which would not allow the clutch pack to engage and buil enough pressure to hold a load. 

This transmission was called the HLR (Hi-Lo-Reverse) transmission and it was not an uncommon problem. They are not fun to take apart but one you get the bolts holding the clutch pack drum and shaft out (takes a special wrench you can make out of a regular combination box/open wrench using a torch to bend it) the clutch packs are easily rebuilt with a rebuild kit. Just make sure you count and verify the number of clutches and friction plates you put back into the clutch pack drum.

If you look on the Deere parts website in the parts catalog under 2010 under transmission drive shaft, there is a good exploded parts diagram of this.


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## Kevin B

TF Admin

I'm in the process of splitting. I'm taking a look at the transmission before I split the clutch housing. I'll remove the transmission top cover. Someone suggested the forks may be stuck between gears. Others have suggested the clutch. By your description, it sounds like you were looking at a hydraulic clutch. Mine is mechanical. Here is the link to the parts page at JD JD Parts Page 
Any help with this is greatly greatly appreciated. I've only split one other tractor and that was about 10 years ago on an International 444.


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## Live Oak

Best advice I can give you is to spend the buck for a John Deere shop manual for this tractor. They put a lot of helpful info. in those manuals. Splitting the tractor is never a fun job. :dazed:


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## Kevin B

I've got the factory manual, owners manual, and dealer parts book. Not a Problem. But as you said, splitting is never fun, and I was trying to avoid it if I could get some good info first. It's torn down to the splitting stage. I've noticed some previous owner must have tried (and failed) to split it in the past. The top 2 case nuts (under the battery tray) have been beaten to death with a chisel. Hopefully I can heat up the nuts enough with a torch to free them. They don't even look six sided anymore. The joys of second hand machines.


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## Kevin B

Got the transmission cover off this morning. Laying on the bottom of the transmission was a roller for the forward fork of the range selector. Don't know how it came off, range selector is probably a little out of adjustment, the stars were all aligned just right and things happen. I got the roller back on and moved the speed selector and range selector through the motions. Everything seems to be right. I'm still splitting the case to rebuild the clutch and fix a hydraulic pump leak. thanks for the inputs. I'll keep it posted on my progress.


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## Kevin B

*Not the clutch, not the shifting forks. HELP*

Well, that was a lot of work for nothing. I go t the 2010 all back together after getting the rollers back on the shifting forks and changing the clutch and pressure plate. The tractor acts as though the clutch is not disengaging. But removed the access plates and crawled underneath. The clutch is working. I bypassed the neutral safety switch and started the tractor in gear. Something in the differential area seems to be slipping because even when started in gear the tractor won't move forward or reverse. It tries to move, but every couple of seconds something slightly grinds and the tractor rolls slightly (fractions of and inch) and rolls back the same amount. I can actually start he tractor in gear and with the clutch engaged. I was going to pull the brake covers off this morning and see what is going on with the final drives. ANY help would be appreciated. Thinking of salvaging it out.


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## Live Oak

Sounds as if the clutch disk and pressure plate are just barely engaging but not hooking up tight. Have gone back to check the clutch adjustment and reassembly of the clutch components?


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## Kevin B

I adjusted the clutch from no free-play in the pedal to 4 inches ( book says 1" of free play) It made no difference. pulled the transmission cover off and turned the motor over. Everything is spinning and shifting as it should in the transmission. Looks like I'm headed for the differential. If that's shot, the tractor is scrapped. It's not worth the time and $$$ to rebuild the transmission and differential.


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## Kevin B

Update: I got the seat and differential cover off and started the tractor up in gear. The differential was turning, but the final drives weren't.


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## Live Oak

If the differential ring and pinion are turning then it is likely something in one of the final drives. 

http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/R213/R21309_________UN01JAN94.gif

It could still be in the differential if one of the spider bevel gears or other bevel gears broke. 

http://jdpc.deere.com/pimages/R212/R21249_________UN01JAN94.gif


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## Kevin B

Broken left axle. OUCH!


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## Woodpile

Live Oak said:


> Kevin, I believe your 2010 has a clutch pack type forward and reverse in the transmission. It is a likely possibility that the clutch pack piston has blown or cut an o-ring seal which would not allow the clutch pack to engage and buil enough pressure to hold a load.
> 
> This transmission was called the HLR (Hi-Lo-Reverse) transmission and it was not an uncommon problem. They are not fun to take apart but one you get the bolts holding the clutch pack drum and shaft out (takes a special wrench you can make out of a regular combination box/open wrench using a torch to bend it) the clutch packs are easily rebuilt with a rebuild kit. Just make sure you count and verify the number of clutches and friction plates you put back into the clutch pack drum.
> 
> If you look on the Deere parts website in the parts catalog under 2010 under transmission drive shaft, there is a good exploded parts diagram of this.


I currently have a 2010 with the H-L-R transmission. I have no low range just high and reverse. I plan on taking pressure readings but not thinking that's the issue. Any repair in the unit requires splitting I know. Already had top plate off and found 2 separate barrel nuts loose and was hoping that was the problem but no. Anyone here had one apart? I am a transmission specialist in the automotive Industry so I am very familiar with some aspects of what I am dealing with. Looking for pitfalls before I start


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