# Ford 2000 - No Spark



## WNZL (Jun 9, 2013)

I own a Ford 2000 (4 cyl, 12v) that was working fine but now will not start due to the lack of a spark. I've replaced the condenser, points (gapped at .025 per book), spark plugs, spark plug wires, and coil. All to no avail. 

I read that older tractors can build up resistance, so I bypassed the ignition system and straight wired to the coil. Still no spark. The points seem to be clean and opening/closing. In fact, less than 200hrs ago, the complete distributor was replaced, so there is no slop in the gears. 

Which brings me to another problem - my son, in his exuberance to help, removed the distributor (shaft included) so now I have to adjust it back. Would that cause the lack of spark? We were having difficulty with the spark before it was removed.

I'm not a mechanic nor the son of a mechanic but am eager to learn. Any expertise you can give would be appreciated.


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

Restored a 1932 Studebaker. Everything done per factory specs but could not get it to start due to lack of spark. Even installed an electronic ignition.


Called in a a electric wiring expert -with a minimum 2 hours billing - and within 10 mins he found the problem. Plug wires hooked up in wrong firing order. Started at incorrect TDC, from there I trust you know, there was no way it would start. Sparking at wrong cylinder.

So check your install of plug wires and reinstall of distributor shaft to make sure TDC is starting on right plug wire.

G


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## WNZL (Jun 9, 2013)

Thanks, Georgeg. I failed to mention we've checked the firing order with the wires but I'll go back and compare it again. It never hurts to make sure.


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

Just the wrong reference on the distributor.

If you haven't invested in a good continunity tester now is the time. Check all of the wires especially those from the coil to the distributor and make sure they're feeding power. Special attention to plus and positive wire fron coil to distributor. If those all test good start with the ground wire. You may have a bad ground lead, not connected to a solid metal that goes to the frame. There are a lot of bolts on a tractor that hold brackets, hydraulic lines, etc that have bright shinny nuts and bolts but they're not connected to the frame.


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## WNZL (Jun 9, 2013)

I do have a meter and if I'm in town this weekend will test the wires. We've been debating on whether or not to just replace all the wiring - they are getting old and frayed. If a grounding issue, we should find it. 

Question: Should I first adjust the timing before doing anything else? I believe all I'd need to do is find TDC on the #1 cylinder and point the rotor towards #1 to get it in the ballpark. Does that sound correct?


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## Mowerman (Oct 13, 2003)

Just be careful with those new carbon leads as if you bend one they break the carbon centre easy & you'll have problems . I like the old wire centre type myself .


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

A volt/amp meter is NOT the same as a continuity tester. You can accomplish a similar task but it will take you twice as long with a meter and may give you bad info when looking for a bad wire or poor ground. A continuity tester has a battery and light built into a clear handle. The handle has a wire at one end and an ice pick type probe at the other. The wire end has an alligator clip. Attach the clip to one end of a wire and touch the metal probe to the other end of the wire. If there are no breaks in the wire the light in the handle goes on. You can use the meter and with power on check both ends of the wire for the same reading, just a lot more work. Tester is usually under $10.

Don't start replacing all the wiring until you fix this problem first. You're just compounding your trouble to the point you'll probably never solve it yourself. Once you're up and running and still want to rewire do it in sections and test your work by running the tractor.

If you don't start the firing order at TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC) you'll never get it running! If you don't know the setting for TDC and firing order go on-line for tractor specs or ask on the forum . It's not the same for all tractors or even the same make of tractor. Get specifics for your year and model. You may be better off hand setting (manually turning the engine with a large wrench) to TDC and then resetting the distributor and shaft - in fact remove the d and shaft before you set to TDC. Once set then replace distributor shaft and head per specs and install plug wires per firing order. Make sure you start with the right wire at the right spot on distributor (that was my problem).

Good luck

G

PS. My restored Studebaker in the Studebaker Museum, South Bend, IN. (On loan)


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

Mowerman said:


> Just be careful with those new carbon leads as if you bend one they break the carbon centre easy & you'll have problems . I like the old wire centre type myself .


Per Internet firing order is 1-2-4-3. Nothing on TDC setting. Check with part supplier


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## WNZL (Jun 9, 2013)

Thanks Mowerman and Georgeg. 1,2,4,3 is the order we have the wires. My next step will be to set the timing. A continuity tester is on my shopping list, too.

By the way, Georgeg, did you do all the restoration work on your Studebaker? It looks superbly done! In my area of the country (SC), a '32 Studebaker would be a very rare car to see. We might see a 50's at a car show but the older cars are "few and far between." I even went to the Studebaker Museum online, including their Flickr pages, looking for more photos of it.


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## georgeg (Apr 7, 2013)

The car is actually a "Rockne" which was a subsidiary of Studebaker. Only produced for 2 years '32 and '33. Named after the Notre Dame football coach. Went into production in 1930. Rockne died in plane crash in '31 before first car came off line. Go to the Rockne Registry at the Antique Studebaker Club web page. They track all of the 192 or so Rockne's known to have survived.

Frame off restore. I disassembled the car in my garage. Took the engine, trans to mechanic and metal to body guy. Sent all chrome out for resurface. Frame sandblasted and power coated. Put on hydraulic brakes vs mechanical. Partial reassembled in garage and taken for interior work. Back to garage to finish.

Car was only on loan to museum for 6 months during a tribute to Coach Rockne.

Has been used by University of Notre Dame for some special events. 3 1/2 years of work.

George. Thanks for asking


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