# Just got a Craftsman GT6000!



## Brad55102 (Aug 1, 2013)

*Just got a Craftsman GT6000! Pics Added*

I've been searching for weeks and just found a great deal. 
1 year old 
15.3 hours
Looks new for $1500
it has the Kohler 26hp engine.
what Oil does everyone use?
Also what oil filter? (Aftermarket?)


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## Ed_GT5000 (Sep 30, 2003)

pics please! I run mobile 1 in my gt5000 I won't run any thing else and kohler filters (the big ones) 10+ years plus years on my 25hp kohler and no ticks still strong as new


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## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

I've got one as well. 










I run the cheapest oil I can find that meets the manufacturer's specifications. Consult the manual, then look for the rating on the oil container.










I run oil filters that are made in the USA and sold by a local retailer. They meet the engine manufacturer's specifications and are 3.73 per filter.


















Here's a shot for scale










While the filter may look as though it's closer to the camera, I assure you that they're sitting side by side. 

I'm sorry for the blurry images. I'm not a photographer by trade, and some days the ʞamera is über temperamental. 

At 50 hours, I began to notice that the rod ends on the drag links began failing. By 65 hours, the wheels were toed out rather badly and the steering became very heavy.

I put Heim joints on the ends. I bought American made Heim joints. It cost me 36 dollars for all four. 

Factory drag links and rod ends:



They're made in China:



American made Heim joint:



Factory drag link with rod end cut off and tapped for Heim joint:



Factory drag links with new Heim joints:



The steering sector wasn't even lubricated:



The shiny hole in the above photo is on the steering sector:



I changed to F-2 tri rib tires so the tractor would turn instead of slide and it lightens up the steering significantly, which also keeps parts from wearing out prematurely. It also brought the front and rear wheels into alignment and eliminated the wider wheel track of the front end.








Since the 2011 GT6000 only cuts grass and isn't used in below freezing weather, I just filled the tires with water. The water ballasted tires and F-2 tires up front really woke this tractor up. It doesn't slip and slide anymore. 

I hope this helped. Cheers and thanks for reading,
bolillo

I'm sorry for the attached photos below. As I've noted, I'm neither a professional photographer nor am I a writer. Everything below this line can be ignored because it's redundant. However, I'm sure since I told you to ignore it, you're now going to look at it...


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

My links, and rods are doing the same thing I will try your style repair it looks alot stronger than factory. I replaced the axle bushings, and wheel bushings last year but I still have that toe out problem with both front tires.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

Where did you buy those F-2 tri rib tires?


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## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

Argee said:


> Where did you buy those F-2 tri rib tires?


Greater Cleveland Tire or GCT. *Note, this is for a pair of tires not just one. There's also a shipping calculator.

http://www.greaterclevelandtire.com/servlet/the-1182/4.00-dsh-8-4P-Deestone-F-dsh-2/Detail

If you go with the F-2 tires, you'll need wheels/rims that are 3.00 - 4.00 wide. The standard 8" wheel on the front of garden tractors is too wide. I had a Craftsman dump cart that had 3.75 x 8 rims, so I just swapped them out on one tractor. Since I couldn't find a set off of an old Sears Custom/Suburban/etc., I had to buy a set of them. Miller Tire was one of the few sites I could find that offered them. The rims were a bit pricey at 30.00 per wheel, but they did come with a set of wheel bearings rather than bushings. 

Despite their cost, I purchased them here:

http://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/4-00-8/8x3-75-steel-wheel-3-hub-3-4-bearing/

Both wheels came with a set of bearings that look like this:

http://www.millertire.com/products/lawn-garden-tires/4-00-8/8x3-75-steel-wheel-3-hub-3-4-bearing/

*Note, the bearings are just for reference. You do not have to buy them. As I've stated, they already come with the wheels.

I hope this helped. Cheers and thanks for reading,
bolillo


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## tcreeley (Jan 2, 2012)

Nice find- I have a GT500 with the Kohler engine- strong. I had a set of tri rib tires like those on my old Farmall cub (when I had it still). Good design!


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

bolillo_loco said:


> Greater Cleveland Tire or GCT. *Note, this is for a pair of tires not just one. There's also a shipping calculator.
> 
> http://www.greaterclevelandtire.com/servlet/the-1182/4.00-dsh-8-4P-Deestone-F-dsh-2/Detail
> 
> ...



Thanks for the info!! :thumbsup:


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## Brad55102 (Aug 1, 2013)

I just changed my oil with
Purolator PL10241 Oil Filter
2 gt - Valvoline 10w-30 (per owners manual 10w-30 above 32 degrees)


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## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

With the factory set up, I always found oil changes on the 2011 GT6000 to be a pain. Our older 1987 and 1989 GT18s already have the pluming and petcock valves to facilitate mess free oil changes, but the 2011 GT6000 doesn't, so I made some modifications. 

Find an appropriate jug to make a "catchall." I used an old 1 gallon chainsaw bar oil jug. There's a small bolt on the engine that the catchall hooks to. 






I didn't want to spend a lot of money on this project, so I reused the factory petcock. 





Now oil changes aren't so draining... 

I hope this helped and thanks for reading,
bolillo


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## Brad55102 (Aug 1, 2013)

I have the factory yellow drain valve and I noticed that it is very loose. After draining the oil I removed the valve and added plumbers tape and reinstalled. But there is no way of getting a wrench in it. How do you fully tighten this valve?


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## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

Brad55102 said:


> I have the factory yellow drain valve and I noticed that it is very loose. After draining the oil I removed the valve and added plumbers tape and reinstalled. But there is no way of getting a wrench in it. How do you fully tighten this valve?


The lose yellow petcock's one of two reasons why I improvised an improved drainage system. I took the starter off, and it was easier to get to, but it loosened up on me again. It would leak oil, and I'm not the main user of the tractor. One day, my father, who cuts the front of the property while I'm cutting the back, came and told me that the GT6000 wouldn't climb the hill. As it turns out, the petcock had loosened so badly that it leaked oil, and it dripped on the drive belt. It cleaned up ok, but it's a pain. 

If you take off the starter, I vaguely remember it being easier to get to, but on mine, it just kept loosening back up, and Teflon tape didn't help me at all. 

Since I employed the modification I posted images with, it's not leaked once, and that was some 20 meter hours ago.

Cheers, 
bolillo


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## rfpatterson (Apr 22, 2015)

I know this post is old, however I can't see the pics of the new lingage. Can you repost the pics? Everything after the oil filter pics has a broken link.

Thanks


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