# need help starting 8n



## circuitbob (Jun 19, 2012)

hello, have a ford 8n ... symptoms are as follows:

-tractor ran fine ... parked in shed for several years

- tried to start - turned over slowly no start

- new battery, drained gas, new gas and conditioner, checked spark OK ... no start

- cleaned and checked carb , seemed ok, no start, gas draining out of carb inlet

- new carb, double verified spark, still no start and gas draining from inlet

-removed exhaust pipe, just for fun in case of blockage, no change

- any suggestions would be greatly appreciated? maybe im just not seeing something

( i know, i know, i should have put conditioner in the gas, but thats water under the bridge now)


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

If everything seems to be fine, is the gas getting to the cylinders? If so, maybe it's flooding?!? When you get frustrated, and give up after turning it over for so long, check the plugs t see if they are wet. If not, you have fuel problems.Maybe the carb is gumbed up?
If everything is all right, maybe the timing is out, but that should not have changed just because it sat for a while, but... the points might be stuck together or that sort of thing. It happens. Is it a front or side distributor? You never really mentioned what year it is.


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## stickerpicker (Sep 16, 2003)

I have no idea what gas draining from inlet means but it doesn't sound good.

If it isn't supposed to drain from inlet fix that first and maybe we can go from there. 

A charged fire extinguisher within handy reach seems reasonable at the moment.


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## circuitbob (Jun 19, 2012)

i believe it to be a '52' ; the dist is in the front, right side, just over the governor assembly. it seems odd that the gas is comming out of the throat on both the old and brand new carb; i thought it may have been an obstruction in the muffler, thats why i removed it; the carbs have what seems to be a stock drain hole with a sintered brass filter on the bottom for draining excess gas, so i think ... maybe there is supposed to be a liitle gas there ???, but not this much.; if i choke it there seems to be a gas mist spraying OUT of the bypass valve on the butterfly ??? that may be my imagination though ?? ill check the plugs for gas tomorrow morning. thanks for the replies so far and please ... keep em comming, because im at my wits end.


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## circuitbob (Jun 19, 2012)

checked the plugs after some cranking, they are dry. took closer look at carb inlet during cranking. if the choke is closed for a few seconds during cranking and then opened .... gas will pour out of the inlet (about a tablespoon)


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

With the fuel leaking and the plugs dry, it sure sounds like a carb issue.
Have you set the main and idle jets? If not, 1 1/2 to 2 turns on the main jet, 1 turn on the idle jet is a good place to start.
Actually check out this guys carb tutorial, it may help your situation, short of buying a rebuild kit seeing as you have a new carb.

http://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/pdfs/8N-Overhaul-Carburetor-2009.pdf

Good luck and keep us posted.


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## rob96b (Oct 31, 2011)

I would check compression to see if a valve could be stuck..


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## rob96b (Oct 31, 2011)

Try putting a teaspoon of gas in each cylinder,replace spark plugs quickly and try to start..


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## rsoby (Nov 3, 2011)

*check the jets*

Since the introduction of ethanol into the gas supplys, an ongoing issue has been that when a vehicle sits (for even several months) the ethanol pulls water out of the air - so:
First thing is check that the 'gas' in the fuel bowl is actually gas and not water
once that is done - if it does not start - there is a jet going from the fuel bowl to the throat of the carb - find the end in the throat and use a compressor to blow back into the carb bowl - 
Seems the water and ethanol 'eat' the old zinc fuel bowls and small particals enter the jet and clog it up
Can't tell you the number of lawn tractors I have gotten from the local recycle yard and all I have to do is clean the carb jets and they work fine

If the compressor does not blow through - use a set of welding tip cleaners (strong steel pins that also have a 'file' as part of the cleaner part. Find one that can get through and work up to the size of the jet - do not increase the jet size as that will result in a rich mixture


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## wacoplowboy (May 18, 2012)

The carb draining gas is common from choking the engine too long and too much. First things first. pull the distributor wire from the coil and check for spark. If you have spark then the electrical system is working properly. Next check spark at a plug wire. If you hsave spark by pass working on the points and distributor, they're fine. Still no start, check the current draw to the starter, this should be a 6 volt system and starter draw should not be more then 2 volts. If you have doubts, take it off and go to auto zone and have it tested. A dragging starter causes the engine to turn too slow. If the started is ok, then I would give it a 1 second shot of starter fluid. Still doesn't start then static time the engine and check the compression. Some of these old tractors have a ballast resister in line with the ignition switch and the coil. If its burned out, (burned in half, broken, corroded, it won't start.


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## rob96b (Oct 31, 2011)

DID YOU GET HER FIRED UP?? What was wrong??


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## circuitbob (Jun 19, 2012)

ok ... heres the latest update in this adventure

(also, before i forget, thank you all for your posts)

removed some plugs and put tablespoon of gas in .... no start

then ... the starter make a lous shriek and stopped engaging 

in an angry state we decided to resort to pull starting but Ha, ha engine seemed to be siezed ?????

removed all plugs, fogged, still siezed

tried to turn engine with fan, then bfs in timing port --- rough going for about 5 degrees then ... ok

pulled again and blew all the boogers out

installed plugs, and she started right up and ran like a champ!

now, after a visit to teh local tractor dealer it seems that there was supposed to be a SECOND giant washer on the end of the engagement spring ! in hindsight, that thing didnt really look right when in put it back in.. where or where is that silly washer? i can assume it is pasted somewhere in goop on the side of the bell housing waiting for an opportune time to dislodge and fly into in the ring gear and ruin my day. 

what does one do now ??? is pulling the engine the only option?

also, what are the bent cotter pins for coming out of the bottom of the bell housing and transmission belly???


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## st3gamefarm (Jun 24, 2012)

Bent cotter pin is there to keep that hole clear of debris. It should vibrate around (be loose) and in doing so will not allow oil and dirt to plug the hole. 

I take it that yer starting problem was due to some sort of crap holding the valves open?

I've found acorns packed into the cylinders by varmits, through an open valve.


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## circuitbob (Jun 19, 2012)

any advice on getting the washer from the starter assemble out 'without' pulling the engine? can the oil pan be removed with the engine and front of tractor remaining in place?


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## wacoplowboy (May 18, 2012)

as I remember the oil pan is bolted to the front axle and the clutch housing. One thing you may do is use an inspection camera to see where it is and fish it through the starter opening. Pulling the tractor apart is not as bad a job as you may think. I have pulled them apart several timed and it seems to be easier than I had thought.


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