# 3000 Ford Diesel



## jdyson (Dec 14, 2017)

Last week I cranked up, moved some hay rolls, and tractor was running great when I put it back in the barn. After a period of 2 or 3 days of 20 degree weather, I needed to move more hay, but when it cranked up it was running on only 1 of the 3 cylinders. Thought maybe the fuel filter was stopped up, so I replaced it and also serviced the air filter. It has flow thru the filter to the pump. After bleeding the system it still cranks, but runs on 1 or 2 cylinders. I have been thru the bleeding process several times with no improvement. I opened the lines at the CAV pump and am getting fuel only on the # 1 cylinder. I opened the pump drain plug while running and get only a drip from it. Is there something I'm missing, or is it time for a pump overhall?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Pump "drain plug"??
Are you bleeding the air at the double screw, by the name plate?
You are referring to a CAV- DPA pump, correct?
Triangle mounting flange w. the throttle & s/off levers on the top cover?


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## jdyson (Dec 14, 2017)

Yes, the double screw on the pump by the nameplate. I think I've got most of the most air out of it this morning while it was running by cracking the nuts on the injectors. It will crank and run now, but won't accelerate or speed up. It is missing on # 2 cylinder. I think of three things... injector gone bad or valve burned or air in # 2 line.. I can't figure why it was running perfectly when I shut it down and runs bad the next time I crank it. Only thing was the cold weather between crankings.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Please explain the pump drain.. I'm hoping you didn't mess anything up by removing a screw while it was running..
I rebuild pumps for a living, so I'd be the one to ask. I pretty much have seen it all & I've done most of um.. Lol
How much fuel is in the tank?? The older Fords don't like anything under 1/2 tank while TRYING to bleed the system, seeing its gravity fed..
& w/ the 20*weather you've had, I'd suspect ice in the system.. compounding the air in the system..


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## jdyson (Dec 14, 2017)

Pump drain (probably poor choice of words) according to the pump diagram is the air bleeder screw. Small pointed screw that screws into what looks like a nut on the side of the pump.next to the nameplate. Fuel tank is nearly full within 2" of the filler neck. We had about two days of 20° weather last week. Other than that we've had 40-50° days with mid 30° nights. We don't get a lot of long periods of low temperature here in Mississippi. So I don't think icing is the problem. It seems to have pretty good fuel flow from the tank. I undid the fuel line from the tank and blew it back to the tank with air. I checked to fuel return from the injectors by loosing the hold down bolts and got flow from all three. I bled the injectors, had a little air on #2 and #3. If I try to bleed #1 with the engine running, it dies. I don't know how many hours are on the tractor. I bought it used and, of course, the hour meter was broken and showed about 1,000 hours. I have had it about 8 years with no problems and run it on average less than 50 hours bushhogging and moving hay. The diagram I have shows another bleeder screw higher up and on the engine side near on of the lines to an injector, but it's no where to be found. It's not there.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Some units have the upper bleed screw & some don't.. not a big deal..
I don't like the engine dying when #1 inj. is loose..
Only thing I can tell ya is swap the injector to another hole.. if the problem follows the injector, that's your problem.
IF you loosened or took the bleed screw out while it was running, you should have gotten SOAKED w/ fuel..?? heavy stream outta that screw.. IF you didn't get soaked, theres a problem..


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## jdyson (Dec 14, 2017)

I'll try swapping the injectors next week and let you know what happens. For now, my wife is tired of me smelling like diesel so I better take a few days off. Thanks for all your help.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Cracking the injector lines should only be done one cylinder at a time with the engine running. I'm guessing that's what you're doing? And cracking #2 and #3 lines respectively produces little or no change in how the engine runs while cracking #1 causes it to die(or nearly die)? Am I reading this correctly? 
You feel that little or no fuel is coming from the pump at the #2 and #3 ports? If that's the case, I would remove all three injectors, then attach each one to it's respective line with the nozzle end pointing up or wherever it can be fit just not in the bore. Then crank the engine for a few strokes and see what happens. In theory, if all is well you will eventually see an equal fuel spray pattern from each tip (coinciding with compression on that cylinder) while cranking. 
To escape the wrath of "Safety Sam", I must caution that pressurized fuel escaping the nozzles at popping pressure can indeed be dangerous to eyes, hands, fingers, or ANY body parts within striking distance. Stand well back when first attempting this as the spray can travel a great distance in just a split second. 
That being said, and you do NOT get equal results from all three injectors, then you can conclude there is a pump/injector problem.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

and atomised fuel is very explosive, beware flame or sparks


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

I JUST REREAD YOUR POST CONCERNING THE ENGINE DYING..
IF the engine died when you cracked #3.. the problem lies w/ 1&2.. basically the engine is running off of #3 cylinder & when you took THAT FUEL AWAY, it died.
I'd be happy to check those injectors for ya.. I think you can find them online for about 65.00 each??


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