# Ford 3000 Injector pump leaking. "HELP"



## Okie72 (Mar 31, 2016)

I have a ford 3000 about a 73 model that has a non-simms pump, I think i've heard people call them CAV's or something. Anyway I cleaned it up and it looks like the leak is coming from around the fuel shut-off and throttle shafts. My questions is has anyone on here ever changed out the o-rings on these before and how hard of a job is it?

Thanks for your help on this!!


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## RM-MN (Sep 11, 2015)

It's not a hard job at all but inside the cover is a spring that connects the throttle lever to the governor and that has several different holes it could be installed. Pay close attention to where both ends are when you open the cover as this spring sets the high RPM limit. If you get the spring into the wrong set of holes, the engine won't be able to reach its rated RPM or it will exceed it. 

Make sure to use a very high quality sealer where the cover attaches to the pump body or it will leak there.

I bought a kit from a diesel shop and it contained the o-rings needed as well as a host of other parts that I didn't need but the kit was worth the money to get the right o-rings. Mine hasn't leaked in 3 years.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I would not use any sealers on an injection pump. Use the proper gasket! Don't take any chances with sealant. It's likely to dissolve in the fuel, or spill over and get into the working parts, possibly creating more problems than it solves. If the mating surfaces are clean, the cover and gasket are properly placed, the gasket will seal with no problem.


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## mandoman (Apr 26, 2016)

*You can do it. Take your time.*

This is a fairly easy repair. I fix this problem all the time in the shop here. There are some good videos on u tube that explain this repair in detail, if you are inclined to 
watch someone else fix this type of pump before you tackle it. 

The biggest trick to the job it making certain to keep the governor spring in the correct holes. There are numbers on the tag of the pump that will tell you which holes the spring goes in. With out the chart in front of me I don't remember them off hand. 

You can purchase seal and o-ring and gasket rebuild kits for these pumps for around 35$ on the internet. They will usually be generic kit for all the pumps for 3 cyl. - 6cyl engines just use the parts you need. 

In my experience when the throttle shaft and kill shaft seals start leaking the front seal isn't far behind and you will end up with fuel in your oil. 

There is something about this fuel today that makes all these seals get hard much faster than the did years ago. 

I have been doing this for nearly 40 years now and in the past 10 I have replaced more injection pump seals on every kind of pump you can imagine than in the previous 30 combined. 

Good luck you can do it take your time. One more thing I forgot to mention be sure to clean things up good on the outside before disassembly and be sure to keep things very clean upon reassembly.


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## RM-MN (Sep 11, 2015)

Fedup said:


> I would not use any sealers on an injection pump. Use the proper gasket! Don't take any chances with sealant. It's likely to dissolve in the fuel, or spill over and get into the working parts, possibly creating more problems than it solves. If the mating surfaces are clean, the cover and gasket are properly placed, the gasket will seal with no problem.


The injector pump repair location where I purchased the kit had a specific sealer that they said was imperative to use. Maybe they don't know what they are talking about but they've been in business many years.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I too have been in this business for many years. I've handled any number of pumps repaired at many pumps shops across the country and have yet to get one back with sealant of any sort on the gaskets, I've never used any type of sealant on a pump cover gasket on this or any other injection pump, and believe me, I've handled more than one. Thus far I have had no problems with leaks I couldn't account for. If you wish to recommend to someone that he should use it, fine. It's still a free country(so far). I personally would not go there.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Okie72,

Welcome to the tractor forum.

One little additional detail.....There's a little "teat" on the bottom of the fuel shut-off control, which comes out with the cover. When re-installing the cover, the "teat" goes into a groove on the shut off valve beneath it. You will see what I mean. I've seen guys miss this little detail. 

Good Luck.


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## Okie72 (Mar 31, 2016)

Thanks everyone for your information, it really helps!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

A great video covering the operation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTyqaMYbYyg


Another great video covering a complete overhaul:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h26p78YZIr4

Beginning of the part that covers the cover :
https://youtu.be/h26p78YZIr4?t=1027


If you push the throttle shaft through the cover, like in the first video, you do not have to deal with the springs and links arrangements. Just keep it assembled, change the o-rings and push the throttle shaft back in place.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Hacke said:


> A great video covering the operation:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTyqaMYbYyg
> 
> 
> ...


I take it you have done this a time or two with great success? The pump depicted in the video is on a bench, with plenty of room and good lighting on all sides. Attempting this with the pump still on the tractor changes things a bit.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Fedup said:


> I take it you have done this a time or two with great success? The pump depicted in the video is on a bench, with plenty of room and good lighting on all sides. Attempting this with the pump still on the tractor changes things a bit.


I have only done it on a bench. Personally, I would not try to open the pump when it is mounted on the tractor. Far to big risk of getting something unwanted into the pump. To feel secure during the overhaul is worth the work of getting the pump off the tractor, and putting it back. As said before, you might be better off renewing the front sealing as well when you are at it.

If it would be done with the pump on the tractor, I cannot see how you get more problems by pushing the throttle shaft through the cover and keeping the links and springs in place, as I suggested.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I see we have a minor difference of opinion here, and I guess that's fine. I've done this procedure probably a few dozen times with the pump on the tractor with reasonable success thus far. I doubt I've ever done it on the bench. In most cases, if I feel the need to remove the pump for repairs, I'm going to have the work done professionally, with all the internals inspected, and the pump run on a test stand when repairs are complete. Since I have neither the skills nor the equipment to do this, I try to limit my efforts to what I feel comfortable attempting while the pump is still mounted.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

I too have done it 1000's of times ON the tractor.. Just depends on what the customer wants.. The biggest problem I SEE when a home owner does it, is dirt.
Not cleaning the area of dirt prior to removing the cover.. AND trying to reuse the cover gasket and fiber washers under the acorn nuts on top.
ALL the parts required only come to 11.00 and some change including tax..
1 top cover gasket, 4 orings and 2 fiber washers for the top nuts. BUT a kit will only cost you about 22.00.. 
AND is very do-able to the homeowner.. just get everything out of the way.. linkages/brackets ect.. Good luck


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