# 5 pin ignition switches...



## kastein (Apr 13, 2013)

Hi,
I purchased a 1976 Economy Jim Dandy late last year from a friend. Got it for quite a good price, I've already been offered 6 times what I paid and didn't take it, it's not for sale...

When I got it, it wouldn't start or run properly, had a dead battery, flat tires, etc. General neglect. Since then, I've tightened up the steering, cleaned it up a bit, replaced a broken bolt holding the steering box to the frame, filled the tires (they're dry rotted, but will do for now...), rewired the lights, reversed a lot of "mickey mouse" repairs previous owners had done, cleaned the carb, etc. I have it running and driving, though it will only run with the choke on, I'm pretty sure I need to rebuild and readjust the carb again but at least it runs.

I replaced the ignition switch with the wrong kind - I needed an INDAK type with pins ARIBS, all Tractor Supply had for a 5 pin was the GLBSM kind for a magneto engine rather than a battery ignition engine. So since it plugged in, I figured it was the right one, 'cause I'm a smart guy :dazed:

Problem is, it obviously doesn't work at all. I have to put a test lead from the ignition coil positive to the battery to make it run, and jump the starter solenoid manually to make it start. GLBSM switches connect G-M in OFF, L-B in ON, and S-B in START. I need an ARIBS (Power King 03-2028, per the manual that came with the tractor.) I'm kinda short on cash at the moment and don't feel like spending money on another switch when I have a perfectly good one... being an electrical engineer, I feel like getting myself into more trouble here by making the GLBSM one work instead of buying the right switch.

Don't worry, I'm not going to hack up the harness, I want to restore this thing eventually. It's already been hacked up by 2-3 people and I've undone some of that and put it back how it's supposed to be, mostly. That being said, anyone have a list of which pins connect to what on an ARIBS 5 pin switch in which positions?

I suspect it's no connections in OFF, A/R/I/B in ON, and I/B/S (or possibly A/R/I/B/S) in START. Am I way off base here?

If this is in the wrong subforum, my apologies.


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## kastein (Apr 13, 2013)

Stared at it for a while and figured it out!

Connections I made:
B on switch to B on harness
G/M on switch unused
A on harness unused (tractor doesn't have this pin wired to anything)
L on switch to both R and I on harness
S on switch to S on harness, and also via a rectifier diode to R/I on harness + L on switch. Cathode of diode to R/I/L, anode to S/S. This feeds the ignition coil while spinning the starter, it also feeds the L terminal of the switch (doesn't matter) and the rectifier/regulator output (again, doesn't matter.)

Works great, I will order a new switch when I feel like spending money on it.

Now I just have to fix the PTO clutch (needs some wiring redone and the switch replaced, I had to bypass the safety terminals in it to get the starter circuit working) put on a new headlight switch (it's toast) and fix a variety of other issues and it'll be a runner!

Oh, and the carb turns out to be mostly properly adjusted after all, the engine just wasn't warming up as quickly as I expected. 

edit: now with video! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9AYAXyJjVc


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## farmertim (Dec 1, 2010)

Welcome to the forum kastein, glad you got some issues sorted have fun with the rest too.
I had similar issues with my Kubota acquisition
Cheers


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## kastein (Apr 13, 2013)

Thanks!

Clearing up more wiring harness messes from the POs today... hopefully have it looking better.


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