# Troy Bilt Fiber Reverse Disc



## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

I have an older Troy Bilt Horse #225707. Last month, I needed to replace the fiber reversing disc because it was beat up pretty bad; I believe that I have only put 4 reverse disc on the unit in 35 years. Before I replaced it, I checked the owners manual about assuring that the top & bottom pulleys "floated" to assure that the disc would be evenly centered. Now after less than one month, the new disc is developing very bad wear (evenly on both sides) & is chipping. I have made sure that the reverse disc is not hitting on the upper pulley when in forward &, as I said above, the disc is centered in the lower pulley when engaged. Can somebody there tell me what is the problem & how to fix it? I don't want to spend another $65 for a new disc & get the same wear problem.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Can you post a pic or two,so I can see how it's wearing? It may help in diagnosing the problem.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

Sorry, no digital camera. It is wearing badly but evenly after only & chipping after one month of use. As I stated, the disc seems centered in lower pulley when it is engaged & the lower pulley "floats". Don't know how much "float" Troy Bilt expects 'cause the owners manual does not specify.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Let me check with Troy-Bilt,and I'll get whatever info I can,for you.Probably some time tomorrow evening. I haven't had a problem like this on any I've had in my shop,so it'll help me ,as well!


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

Good luck with Troy Bilt!! I've been trrying to get somebody there to answer for over a week. I will await your findings.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answers?*

Any luck getting info fromTtroy Bilt??


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I don't know if this is right,but they say it has too much tension on it.I'm more inclined to believe that the disc is defective.I've got one other source,but he hasn't gotten back to me yet.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

Another gentleman suggested I check the main shaft end play. I did & found that I needed to add a .010 shim to the rear bearing; there was about .030 of end play where Troy Bilt wants .005 - .015. I also checked to be sure that the disc was not hitting the lower pulley when in neutral. Since that adjustmant has not been touched since tiller was produced in 1977, I adjusted that up a little. The disc I bought was an OEM Troy Bilt from Jack's Small Engine in MD; I have had zero issues with parts from them so I've got to believe the disc was not defective. I will await more info from you.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*tiller*

Tom (the other source),just got back to me.He says that the disc is rubber-rimmed,or should be,and there's an update kit #GW1919,that includes the 3&7/8 "adjustment block.Price is $48.67. He states that if the adj.block is worn,it increases the wear on the disc. Does this sound like it's correct,to you?I usually get units that are totally abused,so I replace the disc/block at the same time.Hope it helps.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

My tiller uses the fiber disc, not the rubber-rimmed unit. It was made in 1977, way before the rubber ones came out. I believe that I stated that fact in my original request fo help but could be wrong.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Yes, the end play can cause it,or part of it. Jack's is a reputable company,so stick with them.They may have a tech available as well.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

Is this other gent (Tom) suggesting that I could upgrade to the rubber rimmed unit? I was told that there was no kit to do this with original fiber disc units. Have you checked this out with your Troy Bilt source? I don't know how you were able to get an answer from Troy Bilt; it has now been 8 days & I still don't have an answer from them. Since being taken over by MTD, they have become useless!!!


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

All the ones listed,show the rubber-rimmed disc,and I went back as far as it listed.Sorry.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I operate a small engine repair facility,and I deal with a lot of MTD/Troy-Bilt units,so I contact Tom once in a while. I didn't ask if it will interchange,but I can contact him tomorrow,and find out. It may help,if it does interchange.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

I would really appreciate if you could talk with Tom about the upgarde. The last I knew, the only way to do this upgrade was to also change the lower pulley. On a tiller that is fast approaching 35 years old, I'm not about to do that unless the transmission has to come out for some serious other issues. I will await the results of your conversation with Tom.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Will do !As soon as I know,YOU'LL know!


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

I just heard from two other sources that the upgrade to the rubber rimmed unit requires pulley & belt changes & is not not worth the time or effort or older Troys. Have you heard from anyone else on ideas as to what might be causing my excessive disc wear?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Yes, that's exactly what Tom says,also.He did suggest,though that there may be a rough spot on one,or both pulleys. He said you might check,and if possible clean it with some emery cloth,to smooth the surfaces.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

Already checked pulley for rough spots/pitting; none to be found. Any other thoughts? I cannot believe that I'm the only Troy Bilt Horse owner that has experienced this trouble. As I indicated yesterday, the rear bearing needed a .010 shim to take out the excessive shaft play. Please advise on other suggestions.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*reply*

There are only two other things that I can think of,that might cause it. The first is worn engine/transmission bearings. The second, is worn engine mount rods(the ones the engine slides up/down on)or rod holes.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

How would I check for the worn bearings? Are those the ones I just shimmed from the back? How much movement tolerance is to be expected around the rods? There is some movement in these areas.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

The rods should be a slip fit,and very little movement side to side.keep them clean/greased. As for the bearings,grab the pulley and try to move it sideways/up/down. ANY movement,other than in/out is bad. In/out move ment should not exceed .010.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

If there is excessive plays around the rods, how do I repair that?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

If the wear is on the rods(you'll see the wear)replace them.If the wear is on the slider block,you'll have to have them reamed,and some bushings fitted,or replace the slider block(NOT CHEAP!).


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

What is the Troy Bilt tolerance between the rods & the sliders? How would I check for excessive movement between them?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

As I said,thy are a slip fit.If theres any sloppiness,refit them,with new pins,and/or bushings. If you can actually seeany tilting,or sideplay,when the slider block moves during forward/reverse engagement,then they are worn.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

I'm going out now to see how much slop there is in the system. How do you normally repair tillers that have this condition? Where can I get the rods?


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

No slop in the rods when shifting from forward to reverse. You mentioned earlier that the rods should be greased. Guess I have mis-read the owners manual all these years 'cause I've always been using oil on them. Do you feel that grease works better? Could all my premature disc wear been solely from the exceesive main shaft slop?


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

Answers???


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*sorry*

Sorry Dave didn't mean to leave ya hanging.The rods are available through troy-bilt.As for bushings,you would have to get the rods,and go to an auto parts store that sells bronze bushings,and check them for fit.Then,have the holes in the block reamed for a press-fit to the outside diameter of the bushings.It's not difficult,if you have a drill-press,and get the right size reamer.I've done 3 of them,over the years,and I also drill a hole, to fit grease fittings,in them. It's always possible that these problems can be caused by looseness,in the parts.One of the reasons they changed to the rubber-rimmed disc,is that it's more "forgiving",and it also grabs the pulley surface better,so you get better drive.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Excessive slop in any of the parts,can cause problems.I've seen them so loose in the shaft bearings,that it jammed the gears,and broke the casings!Lube types are up to you.If you feel that the manuals' method is good,and it hasn't worn,keep doing it that way!I put the grease fittings in, at the customer's request,because he didn't want to have to keep oiling them.Whether it was better,or not...?


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

Thanks again for all your help & info!! I'm going to clean the rods up real good & then grease them per the owners manual; I don't know how I went from grease to oil 'cause I'm usually pretty fussy about following manufacturer's service recommendations.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

Looking back on all your correspondence, ther is one question you did not give a real solid answer to. Could the excessive main shaft play been the whole cause of the premature disc wear? Can you give me any more things to check that might contribute to my problem?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*reply*

Just got on site a few minutes ago. Yes,the excessive mainshaft play could contribute to the wear you've described.It causes the disc to hit more to the sides,than center,and in exteme cases,can shatter the disc,completely.It can also cause accellerated wear on the gears,especially if the gearlube is low,for any length of time. As far as I know,the things I've told you are about all that would account for the problem,except for a defective disc.


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## DaveCraw (Jul 26, 2011)

*Answer*

Again, I'm much appreciative of all the help & info!!


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## Qman62 (May 20, 2016)

I have the same issue as the gentleman has with the fiber reverse disk. My Troy Bilt was made in 1972. I just bought this unit from an estate auction. A lot of rusted parts and broken bolts. I ordered new belts and a new reverse disk. The one I received is the rubber coated disk. I don't think that this will work on my unit without exchanging the pulleys. If anyone knows how to get this new disk to work on a older unit please let me know.


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## cybersleauth (Jun 11, 2016)

My tiller is from the 70's and I just replaced the reverse disk. If i tighten the bolt holding the engine pulleys from shifting the pulleys keep drawing in toward the engine. When this happens the reverse disk no longer lines up with its corresponding pulley.
The belt pulleys will sort of line up when the engine is running but there is a space behind the pulley maybe 3/8-1/2 inch that the pulley can shift back and forth on. I replaced the engine with a new one and all the other bolts line up. Somewhere I may have seen an original engine shaft with grooves in it for snap rings or something friction less to perform a shim function.


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