# What has broken on your Tractor?



## Dugout

I was sitting around the other day with a couple of buddies, we got to talking tractors and there was a lot of the same issues mentioned.

So I thought I would do an informal study here and find out what all has broken on your tractors.

Also in addition to listing what has broke, if you had a warranty please include if they covered it.


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## Thomas

Kubota still purring w/no problem.
Cub Cadet 2042 LT still earning its keep.

Knock on wood.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Good one Dugout. Only thing so far in the 300 hours on my John Deere 990 is a cracked hood. Yup, my fault. My 316 rider has never had an issue yet aside from a fuel pump and coil since 1985


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## Evanedward

Bought a new Craftsman years ago. The store ad stated READY TO MOW. Well this thing was anything but ready to mow. Had several things fall apart including the steering wheel almost came off,never tightened up. Finally went through the thing from one end to the other. I don't think Craftsman is a bad tractor just sold by a place that should not be in the business.


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## dangeroustoys56

I really havent had any breakages - im constantly mantaining my fleet and already went thru them when i rebuilt them ( all bot used and abused) - mostly just some belt changes are needed ( slip too much) on a couple soon .


Evanedward: That was due to the flunkys that work there - they come in crates 80% assembled and the store workers finish assembling them ( seat/steering wheel, ect)- they arent professionally assembled- or couldve been quitting time at the factory.

I think if i bot a brand new tractor today id be going over it with a fine tooth comb - im lucky my 1st brand new tractor ( a 92 MTD) was bot at a local JD dealer- never had any problems till a deck mandrel wore out years later - that was way past the warranty.


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## HickoryNut

Craftsman LT2000 Year 2004 Blades lotsa blades. No mandrels or transaxles, Lotsa blades. Other than that I'm GooD!


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## Dugout

Anyone else? What did you due to your crack your hood Tractor beam?


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## Thomas

Bumper and front loader has help to save my hoods..whew.


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## rsmith335

I have a 1951 Ford 8N that's a piece of poop, replaced the rear rims and tires, points, plug wires, changed the oil, spark plugs and put gas in it. You would think they would have made a better tractor.


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## farmertim

a log flipped up and holed my sump on my big tractor. it's fixed up with epoxy putty now. It was a hole bigger than your fist.


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## Thomas

Framer Tim.
Care to share info about your tractor?


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## farmertim

Now, the Tractor, it is a Chamberlain Champion 306 (cu Inch)
It is a 1967 model I bought this as it had the Loader attached.
Australian Made and its a tough unit. John Deere bought them out in 1982 and now they carry most of the spares but charge like a wounded bull for them.
I have attache the brochure which tells the whole story.

I am in the process of fitting an original Chamberlain 3 point linkage to it for towing any implements (especially my box blade that I am making.


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## farmertim

Here is the brochure from 1967 for the tractor


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## farmertim

Here is a special Chamberlain tractor that was powered by 2 GM671 putting out 450 HP it is just a little bit too big to get through my gates I think


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## Hoodoo Valley

That's a hell of a tractor and one heck of a tree! Thanks for the info and I can tell you that I'm certainly looking forward to more pictures of it and your place! Thanks for sharing Tim! That tractor is the same age as me by the way!


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## farmertim

Oh, your a youngster then! I got 12 years on you, Cheers


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## Hoodoo Valley

Hear it all the time from my wife, who is 65 and coming up.....


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## Hoodoo Valley

farmertim said:


> Here is a special Chamberlain tractor that was powered by 2 GM671 putting out 450 HP it is just a little bit too big to get through my gates I think


Wonder how much it weighs?


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## Thomas

Glad I am not fill beast tanks at $4:09 gallon...thanks for sharing FT.


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## farmertim

Thomas said:


> Glad I am not fill beast tanks at $4:09 gallon...thanks for sharing FT.


We are paying about $5.40 a gallon in Australia, that's a US gallon as opposed to an "imperial" gallon 3.55 liters instead of 4.55 litres.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Ouch! Bet that puts the damper on excess recreational driving eh?


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## farmertim

I guess you learn to live with it, like if your a smoker you will always find the cash for them. I gave up a year ago now and won't ever do that again!!:dazed:


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## Hoodoo Valley

13 years for me. They are insanely priced nowadasy! Are many cars over there huge gas guzzlers or are the folks down under more into smaller fuel effecient models or is the diesel reign supreme?


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## farmertim

No, the average car is a 4 litre v6 or straight six. Google Ford XR6 or XR8 or you could google Holden SS Commodore. We also have the Honda Accord 2.4 or3 lt
Or the many other varieties of rice burners,
There is a good mix of cars that people drive here, things like the Ford F 350 are quite infrequent, horribly expensive and hellish on fuel. I drive a Ford Ranger dual cab pick up (ute) it is a diesel by choice but there would be 5 percent of all cars here. The dual cab ute is a pretty standard car for it's ability to carry people an stuff in the back.


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## dangeroustoys56

The UTE's are wild- i always said if i ever won the lottery- id fly over there n buy a couple. Since US car makers think the car/pickup style interferes with the truck market- they wont make em anymore. I think the one tonners are really neat as well.


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## Rattosh51

Mainly switches on my Yamaha YT6800, Craftsman and JD318 tractors over the years...PTO switches, safety switches, etc...


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## biggerten

2006 Jinma 354LE, replaced clutch interlock switch (must depress clutch to start), a couple headlamps ans the radiator cap. No warranty. Maybe another item or two, can't remember. No biggies, though. Oh yeah, a roll pin on the 4WD engage lever.


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## jhn9840

Front bumpers are a common one. Replaced 2 solenoid switches and a governor gear so far on my 03 Craftsman DYT4000 @ 450 hrs.

jhn9840
John


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## NBKnight

I've had a few problems with my M4500 Kubota.Steering parts,a rad,and a fuel pump over the last 12 years.I've had my B250 International for 9 years.Haven't had to do a thing to it yet.Regular maint is a must.


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## Vectoruzi

Just had to put a starter on my 1986 Case 448 garden tractor. You think they would build a starter that would last! LOL.


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## indypower

The only thing on my 2009 Poulan lawn tractor is that 1 of the hair pins that hold the pin on on the deck popped out. Don't know where it fell out, never found it ( may have gotten sucked up and into the bagger). I had an extra here and put in all the way to the big "C" at the end. No way that is falling out again.


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## epoclaen

John Deere 2640 - replaced broken gear shift lever twice. The thing literally fell off in my hands. Seals on bucket pistons finally gave way this year. Otherwise I can't complain.
Kubota B1700 mower - if I had a nickle for every time the quick-release coder pin jumped off the mower head wheels and made me lose the occasional bushing, I'd be rich. Replaced the dynamo/alternator last year. Otherwise it runs okay.


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## mk4241

Belts, transmission (HST) 2000 TG1860


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## magfarm

1951 Ferguson TO-30. The main issue is the hydraulic pump is out...the 3-point is either full up or full down...no in between.


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## allen in texas

Kubota Grand L3240. no troubles.
Traded up to a L5740, no troubles up to this point but only 50 hours so far. Don't expect any trouble though.

John Deere X300 Lawn tractor.

Would not mow level. Long story short, after many returns to the dealer and having them tell me that it's my problem, I finally went to war with a John Deere district rep.
I won, got a new deck, now it's a fine machine but the rep had me take it to another dealer.
I'm sure John Deere is a good machine but I will replace it with a Kubota soon due to this incident.
If I havbe to drive to another town to get service from another JD dealer, I will go to the Kubota dealer instead.


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## ralphtt

Very few problems during 80 hours with the JD 2320. One nuisance problem has been the signal lights on the outside of he ROPS supports. Have broken the right light bracket once and the left light three times. At almost $35 each that finally got my attention and I remounted the lights on the inside of the ROPS. Interferes with proper display of the 'slow moving vehicle' orange triangle but I never get on the road anyway.

Also . . . last Saturday I cut a dead wild cherry tree. In piling the pieces on the brushpile a limb reached through the front hood guard and broke the bezel that holds the left headlight. (Headlight was swinging by the wire and could see the battery through the hole where the headlight mounted). Headlight still worked though. Need to add an expanded metal screen to the hood guard so a limb cannot poke through the guard. :whine:

Was able to repair this by using Devcon 5 minute epoxy gel to glue the headlight to the bezel. Still holding so far . . . and time will tell.


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## freeisforme

For the most part all the problems I've had have been fuel related on any of my machines running on gasoline. Today's fuel just don't last when left to sit, often its an issue as soon as a week after filling the tank. Between water in the gas whether from rain or humidity getting in through the cap vents or condensation, I waste more fuel than I burn lately. It seems that if I don't run it dry every time I use it, I find myself draining the tank and cleaning the carb the following time I need to use it. Since a machine can sit for weeks at a time, it's become a pretty annoying issue. It used to be that you could burn off any old gas from the boat in the mower but now it seems they barely want to run on even new gas.


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## banzai runner

Mid eighty's White GT2055 garden tractor
20hp Briggs Vanguard
Eaton Hydrostatic transmission

Part that breaks the most by far are the tie-rod end ball joints.

Bought a 2000 model New Holland TC33D with 840 hrs last fall to replace the White, nothing broken yet...


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## The Toolman

I have a wheel horse an have never replaced anything other than normal belts, blades, seat, filters, spark plug, fluids, tires.

Thats about all I can help ya with


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## Deacon99

*Broken Parts...*

Well... Lost a hydro transaxle in a 2001 Crafstman LTX 2000. Also steering bushing issues in AYP and Craftsman GT6000 garden tractors. Also had to replace a couple of mandrel bearings in the mower decks and of course all belts and fuel/air/transmission filters. Both B&S and Kohler motors have been very reliable. Only replaced one head gasket in a Kolher 18.5 hp twin. Didn't look like that motor was at all serviced for the 10 years prior to me obtaining that tractor though so I'd chalk that one up to poor maintenance...


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## ProfessorJWN

Generally, the Nut Behind the wheel.


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## jb62901

450hrs and a little over 2 years and no broken parts and no problems. Knock Knock on wood. John


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## trs11758

*I buy mine with issues/banged up/not working already...*

I like to get a great deal. Just by doing the maintenance to them they go back to working normally. Mainly carbs are gummed up(clean it out) or it is no spark condition..Just mainly change the condenser or coil (rarely)and i am good to go..Some i keep, most others i sell..Do anything long enough you become an Expert!

I got my scotts tractor cheap ($120)due to the fact the prior owner changed almost everything electrical, but he forgot to change the gear on the starter, It chewed up the plastic teeth on the flywheel. (he gave up) I ordered an aluminum replacement one( starter ring for the flywheel) and changed the starter gear..good as new!

Same thing goes for any and all vehicles...I enjoy a challenge!


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## Ed Hill

Kubota B1750 replaced the seal in the hydro pump. Kubota L4330, the slow moving vehicle bracket fell off the Woods backhoe the other day. I expect the screws and bracket are out in the yard somewhere. I am lucky to be old enough to be losing short term memory, so I don't have to dwell on my self-inflicted damage as much as I did when younger.


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## wireedm

Yanmar F13D - Still working strong no problems.

Homemade loader works great too!


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## RLT

Simplicity powermax 9020. Notorious for electric issues that start at the plugs, go on through the coil, and are finally resolved by replacing the points and condenser, then learning how to set the timing properly. I did all but break a front spindle when a tree stump fortuitously jumped in my way before we went hurtling into a creek. Took about 2 hours of grinding and welding, but we are back in business.


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## widmn

Ran a small log through the radiator while bush hogging and many shear pins.


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## Hacksaw

Wiring Harness broke at the key switch,the key switch itself and the choke cable broke and 2nd gear was worn out when I got it...never bothered me that much I just use it for moving snow which is 1st gear territory anyway and for travel I just put it in 4 and roll along at 7mph 1979 Bolens G14XL


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## six_speed

I have a Craftsman GT5000 with a Kohler CV-730S. I just replaced the head gaskets because it was blowing smoke and had a belt break once because I was mowing very tall grass too fast. Other than that, she's been good to me.


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## Carolinablue

2360 Long, replaced O ring in rear lift cylinder twice.


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## jfabins

I operate a 1973 Charles machine Ditch Witch. it is a hard working machine with little to repair. The last thing I broke was a simple chain for a hydraulic pump. The main problem with the new machines out there no matter what country they come from, but the metal is getting to thin on the frames and the body. Too much flex which is causing cracks. Whith the manufacturuers trying to keep the cost down the machines are becoming delicate. My J-20 witch will out dig the new RT-40's every day and only $30,000 cheaper.


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## Tailgate1480

*Broken Parts*

My Mitsubishi Satoh Bull has had a recurring PTO seal drip. The gearshift boot has popped off too. Otherwise, this thing seems to be built like a tank. I've yanked out large shrubs (pulling backwards) and dragged large tree limbs and big rocks around. Not bad for 25 HP. No structural breaks or fractures. Good luck with collecting your data.


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## SCHSJR

'72 Ford 2000 - The key switch broke was the last fix. Last year sometime.

Before that the exhaust came loose rusted the clamp in half. Bailing wire fix. 
Before that the radiator leaked- out and to a shop cleaned and sealed "tube" off and repainted ~ $60
Hydraulic pressure line popped the fitting at the pump - new compression fitting. 

A few woodruff keys in the steering knuckles/knees and regular maintenance stuff: rear tires, rear rims, brakes, belt, filters, oil, and fluids etc.

Been pretty lucky up to now. This electrical problem is going to probably be my most expensive fix to date besides stuff that wears out like rear tires ouch.

It could use lots more TLC but its not in the budget for the foreseeable future since its just a rough cut bushhogging tractor. 

Currently something out in the charging system. I think the generator and voltage regulator too. The wiring is old and buggered (too many shade tree fixes) and I haven't wanted to mess with it so I hook up the battery charger to crank and don't shut it off until done with job or park next the charger.


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## allen in texas

I just realized that this was the garden tractor forum so y'all can disregard my statements about the grand L's in my post.
I responded because of an email I got. Sent me direct to this thread.


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## cj06

biggest problem i have is trying to keep air in the tires on the old JD 401 !


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## MITractorman

*Case IH Farmall 45*

With only 150 hrs on this guy - nothing broken!!


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## Deerlope

In all honesty I would have to say tires. I am in the woods a lot.


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## dixstir

*wow*



farmertim said:


> Here is a special Chamberlain tractor that was powered by 2 GM671 putting out 450 HP it is just a little bit too big to get through my gates I think


I used be work on a lot of the detroits from 53-71-92 series there was a moline a guy built in minnesota it had (2) 16 v92s it realy had a different sound first the tubros what an awsome sound.


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## MGM

*2003 Craftsman GT5000*

Warranty: First week of ownership, start of the 2003 season.

1. Hood, had 2 small dents from the inside there before it was painted at factory had to look down the hood to see them had them replace the hood, they sent me a new hood UPS. 

2. Rear wheel, the center lug plate was welded into the wheel out of plum making that wheel wobble, one phone call and the service truck was here a couple of days later with a new wheel and tire, got to keep the week old new tire that was on the bad wheel as well. 


Out of warranty: Starting its 9th season: 

1. PTO activation switch, took longer to order it online than it did to replace it.

That's it; the machine has been a good one. Still mowing as good as it did new, starts right up, pulls good and still on the original belts, still original brake pucks, original plugs, oil change and filter change every year, stored outside under a tractor cover, I keep it blown off and wiped down 50/50 Water/Windex.

Everybody have a great season
Bob


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## Bamataco

The only problems I have had with my Craftsman is tires leaking.


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## Tony001

My new JD x304 had problem with electronic control unit and battery before my first real mowing job. Since it is under warranty. JD dealer changed it for me for free. sometime, it is hard to turn the engine on.

Please refer to my post for detail: http://www.tractorforum.com/f291/if-not-sitting-seat-can-you-start-your-mower-16641/


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## MUTiger72

*STX38 Issues*

Dugout,
I have two STX38s and the earlier model, a '89, had a bad carburetor and a broken hood. The carb. was worn around the casting where the throttle shaft is fitted to the carb. body. (Probably normal wear from years of use, but it required a new carb.) The hoods tend to crack where the mounting bolts are secured and anywhere else they may be struck.
My '93 STX38 hood is unbroken.
The engine mounting bolts tend to vibrate and fall out if not secured with Loc-Tite or similar product.
Starter problems eventually occur due to low voltage from corrosion in the safety circuit: seat, transaxle and mower safty switches. (This problem can be solved by adding a relay as written up on this website.)
Plastic parts tend to crack over time including the shift gate, mower deck adjustment plate and early model fuel tank outlet nipples.
That's about all.
Jim
Webster Groves, MO


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## JMZ

FEL hydraulic hoses.


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## Plowthesidewalk

I have an old Sears tractor. It has had a new drive belt installed, the carb rebuilt, oil changes, spark plug, and a couple of idler pulleys to name a few. Heck, it is about 40 years old.


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## Down-Under

US gallon, 3.55L is NZ$5.85 in New Zealand. Gasp!
Common broken parts on Chinese tractors... pretty much everything! 
In no particular order: axles, brakes, instruments, hydraulics, gearboxes, engines, diffs, electrics, fuel systems, cooling, steering system, cheap paint that fails and of course, the inevitable RUST!
Not good enough, in my opinion.


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## mattbird7

2010 Bobcat ct 235. In first 10 hours, the tabs that connect the sway bars to the lower links broke off (the owner of the company didn't put the pins back in before using the box blade on his driveway) Not covered by warranty (clearly user error). have 75 hours now and still doing great. cost $200 in labor to get everything straightened and welded back up.

I'll let you know how she's doing after a full summer of use. (summer camp: mowing, driveway maintenance, mulch moving)


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## Upper5Percent

*This should get you started*

Of the top of my head...
JD 2640 number 1...blown head gasket...frozen differential lock...failed wiring harness...failed fuel indicator...hydraulic leak at 3PH
JD 855...cracked plastic escutcheons...rusted battery mount...
Farmall 460...broken Torque Amplifier...bad electrical light switch<--these came in place when tractor was acquired during an auction...


All of the above have since been repaired...

More tractors...but I have to go out to the barn now for chores...


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## WJBMF35

MF 1635 bought new November 2009. 190 Hours, and not one repair.

Just regular maintenance.


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## greaseslick

This Bolens goes through belts like crazy. The drive belts snapped, flailed around, and _mulched _all the wiring. 

So I had to replace them AGAIN after 20 years. (That's the age estimate when purchased from the PO)

Other than that, um, nothing.


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## Lawrence1210

Hmm... other than everyday wear and tear? Irritating things that are simple to fix happen all the time. So I'll move on to the stuff that makes it not go.

My little Ford 1210 is prone to blown heads. That is usually a person overusing it or trying to tinker with it to increase power.

There is a known transmission issue that requires the tractor be pulled in two to fix... but I haven't had that yet.

My biggest irritation is the adjustmetn clevis-arms that hold/adjust the 3-point arms are all rusted and no longer adjustable. Even bent to some extent. I can get knew ones, but I can't get the cool original blue ones without spending big bucks. So I know someone with a great big press who helped me get them working.

The hinged assembly where the front axle attaches to the tractor is prone to seal wearing out and leaking oil. Could be a big deal with the 4x4 versions.

Plastic lights (road lamps) assembly on one of the fenders cracked and broke, and is not duct tapes back together.

Basically, as long as the oil is changed on time, filter changed, correct fuel, and lubbed appropriately it is a solid little tractor.

Also, need to watch the RMPs, keep em up so not lugging, and also watch to not over-work it by doing things that should be done with a bigger tractor.


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## RickBattle

*Broken dreams*

Pully's, spindel bearings, and of course belts. I have a 2000 craftsman 26hp a monster on my nine acres of mowing on rough terrain.


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## saldana17

1999 Broadmoor 16 LTH had an Ignition switch go bad in 2010 and the rear deck rollers 2008.


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## madjack

worst probs i ever had was belts,sterring linkage,or tires. the tires they put on them today are so thin you could throw a broom straw thru them.


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## dabbdc

I am running 4 old tractors. The Case 108 and 222 give zero trouble and just get routine maintenance. The 226 just went through a starter solenoid. The Cub Cadet is a restoration/pulling project.


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## Mouse

The only problems I've had w my 10yr old (now sold) Scott's (made by JD) was the PTO spring. Battery. When getting the free tractors and fixing 'em up, it's always the carb. Cool thread!
Mouse


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## ret732

I'm one of the lucky ones I guess! I do my regular maintenance and thats about it. Everything is behaving pretty well!


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## dixstir

2210 jd rear pto the housing behind the cover it holds a pocket support and the piece the was broken out was gone somebody took it out This was done before I got the tractor.but the 2305 works real fine.


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## Yeggster

I've only had my old Case for a year and and it ... so far nothing has broken on it


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## grassdigger104

Blades, batteries, belts, tires, a couple of ignition units a spindle, tower and bearings. one deck overhaul to fix worn linkage and pivot plates for the blade drive on the 1994 CRAFTSMAN 12.5 Hp 42" cut. 

I make sure to get a riding mower IN THE BOX and make them take off $50 for me to assembly the mower, or I will go some other place. I get to know the mower by putting it together, usually just have to put the steering wheel on and oil up the mower and fasten in the battery.


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## dixstir

2210 jd the rear end housing busted jd said about 2000.00 for parts plus labor. and it was this way when I got it.dealer took it back and it sit on there lot about a year wating for another sucker .


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## moe7404

i have a 1975 case 446. the things i had the most trouble are, front wheels/tires,carburetor/fuel pump, battery corroding the control cables, deck bearings/shafts. to fix the front wheels/tires i had them foam filled. the battery messing up the control cables was fixed by mounting a reg car bat between the rear tires. iam in the middle of fixin the fuel trouble by putting a electric fuel pump on it.


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## pritcqp

My John Deere 3520 has done many hours, not one problem yet!!


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## myflatline

2 1974 two wheel tractors, constant use. Only problems till now, fuel pumps and carburators (Kohler engines).
1 engine finally gave up the ghost and is getting replaced after 37 years. Not bad


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## tbarbee

My International 504 Utility has been tough as a pine knot. Replaced the steering hand pump, it was the original unit and was 45 years old. Needs brakes and a generator now.


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## mickeythered

My troybilt 42" RZT had the gas shut off solenoid go bad at the end of the first season. Local service wanted me to bring it in. I told them just order the part and surprisingly they did. Took all of 1 minute to put on myself. Then the big one happened. The electric PTO decided to seize up. I haven't changed it yet ($250.00). I just can't actually turn off the blades anymore. it is slowly becoming unsiezed and at that point I can easily remove and replace. Of course when it does that I will be without a mower. Not too sure if this is a bad part, or if my friend who mowed for me last year caused it by mowing at full 7 MPH through super tough grass-nasty Iowa brome (2 acres of it).


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## GFC Firefighter

Exhaust pipe, I guess because I'm using mine in the woods most of the time and vines, tree limbs,etc get it and bend it until it breaks.

I say if you use your tractor for the wood mostly. Make you a cage that protect your exhaust and also you from limbs.


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## nev

I have 2 farmall As pneumatic lift broken. one is an AV 1946, the other A 1947, one pony1951 needs engine rebuild.
garden tractors db super600 good running condition, 1974 wheelhorse good runner needs paint rebuilt the cutting deck 2 years ago. My son has a suburban that needs a coil, a 69 ss12 pulling tractor needs engine rebuilt, it smokes like a mosquito truck and a cadet 111 with an 18 hp twin briggs good puller needs a choke cable. Thats all folks!!!


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## samilitant

04 Jinma 2425 4wd 25hp chinese tractor. Only problems are 1; oil spills out the back when on steep inclines--fixed with a remote reservoir to handle the fluid. 2; front differential broke after removing about 20 stumps from trees up to 8" diamter, which in turn bent the axleshafts. Otherwise had it 2 years and around 200 hours without problems.


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## Dave Rose

Probably belts, but if my wife is mowing then head lights ,grills and tail lights. She is on 60 day house arrest since last week when she ran into a tree


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## arcticzl

this year? hmmm belts and a pto clutch.cant keep out of the wet grass this spring


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## DanielWilson

On my 1955 Ford 960, the charging system has gone out & now the hydraulics are out.

You'd think it was getting old or something.


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## woodsman2011

*Gravely owner chiming in.*

I bought a 68 Gravely commercial 12 with riding sulky and 30" bush hog. I had to rebuild the carb and replaced ignition sys. with points sys. Runs better than new. The only breakage so far: I was bush hogging 2 weeks ago and hit a large piece of I beam HARD. Bent the rotor shaft. I took it to work, pulled it apart, cross refed my bearings, races, seal, and even fitted a speedi sleeve over the sealing surface of the shaft. And after all that and having the shaft checked for cracks and straightened, It runs like new. I was gonna have to replace the seal anyhow, it was leaking.

Happy trails

Kelly


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## james66

l120/ L130/ L145 or L? 


have four different customer's same problems the wire's going to the pto same black wire burns off and break then the pto will not work, These tractor are all about 3 to 7 years old. but 3 of them have briggs and one kohler and the one's with the briggs keep doing it. the one with the kohler new plug fix's no more problems call John Deere wiring harness $110.00 just for part of the front harness well it just one wire


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## farmertim

My main issues have been Hydraulic hoses due to their age on a second hand machine.
I renewed the hydraulic oil on the first hose bursting as it was really dirty, so I gave it a good flush out with a gallon of new oil, and then I burst 5-6 hoses in quick succession. That all seems to have settled down now.
It is only really the anclliary stuff not the original tractor which has caused me problems, the loader was fitted by an engineeriing company subsequent to original condition.

I will need to replace the main clutch soon as it has been abused before I got it, that is another grand I don't need to spend right now!!

If I was making money from the property it wouldn't bother me so much but I am only doing the groundwork (sorry about the pun) at the moment, once I start making some money i can claim a tax deduction on the maintemnance items.

As I havent had the three point linkage completed yet (another WIP) I haven't been able to use the PTO but the clutch on that seems to be not disengaging too. it might just need some adjustment but I will find out soon.


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## Robinssm

Engine or transmission mounts if torque not checked.


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## irwin

1968 IH 2424 : hydraulic line failed, frt spindle bearings shot 
1989 John Deere 770 : alternator bearings 460 hours.. great machine, no longer mine.
1998 Cub Cadet 1541 : ignition switch 600 hours
2004 kubota L35 TLB : front axle seals 400 hours .. my work horse.. this machine and my skid steer do all the hard work.
Craftsman L2000 : starter shaft broke ??? hours

and assorted flat tires


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## mwnayl

Only had two problems with my 3520 JD; Two winters ago I failed to drain the fuel filter bowl and it froze up. As far as broken parts, none on the tractor, but the lower hinge rod on the 300X front loader bucket rusted and sheared off. Again, my fault - missed the grease zerk one too many times. Happy to say the new rod has zerks in the ends that are easy to see and get to. The front tires on mine refuse to stay inflated, especially in cold weather. Tried to upload a photo, but it won't let me unless it's got an URL?? Help?


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## Ed Hill

RE: tires leaking. I forgot the Kubota B1750 front tires kept going flat, so I tried "Slime" in both. It worked. One would go flat over night and the other took three days. Both holding air OK now. I would say anyone with tire problems like that should try some.


----------



## zoomerii

I've only owned my 2008 JD 2305 for a month or two, but found the signal light lens covers (amber) cracked, and the parking break handle and support broken.

On my 2008 JD LA175 that I purchased new, nothing broken, but did need to use SeaFoam <sp?> to clear ruff idling this year (working fine now).


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## shadawick

My tractor is a Ford 1910 4x4. Bought used with 6oo hours on it, I know have 1200+ and I "baby," it.
Other then the normal wear and tear I've only had two problems.
First thing was the Water pump broke and went out, easy replacement, cost not bad, out of pocket!
The other big item is a cracked bellhousing where the Woods FEL bolts on. Used Bellhousing $500.00 labor to be replaced still not finished so unknown total dollars.


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## Jason4567

Starter solenoids, keyswitches, headlight bulbs...etc. Anything electrical is showing it's age in my machines (but then again my newest tractor is 26 years old, and most of them are over 40.

Jason


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## Bri

Well, since this topic is in the “lawn garden tractor” section, I'll include some info on riding-mower-style tractors, too. Please let me preface this by saying that I’ve owned 4 old Ford tractors (1944 2N, 1947 8n, 1955 850, 1962 2000) and that it wasn’t an easy thing for me to switch over to Deere’s. I always thought that Ford’s American-made tractors were well designed and well built; add to that huge production volumes and readily-available and reasonably-priced parts and you have a good tractor. But, I have arthritis and I need tractors that are relatively new, dependable, and low-maintenance. So, I decided to buy some new ones and I decided to buy green. I don’t think I made a wrong decision, so far at least. Time will tell. But, for now, here’s what I have and what problems I’ve had with them. Thanks for reading!

2007 John Deere Select X534 riding mower with 54″ deck, 26HP V-twin gas engine, 4-wheel-steering (power steering). So far, it’s been nothing but normal maintenance: oil, oil filters, lube jobs, air filter, spark plugs, mower blades (it really didn’t need them as the original ones were still in decent shape). So far, no problems or issues. Has about 250 hours on it (per hour meter). Yes, it was very expensive but well worth it as “you get what you pay for” and I found that out the hard way with “bargain” riders that were nothing but trouble (e.g., Sears!!!). I have arthritis in my hands (as well as artificial joints and some titanium pins, too) so the power steering is a must for me (very few riders have it in this size range). This is a great riding mower, period! 











2006 John Deere Model 3720 4-wheel-drive compact tractor with 45HP (gross) 3-cylinder turbodiesel with intercooler (36HP at PTO), hydrostatic transmission, equipped with a Deere 72″ 7-iron belly mower, optional rollbar-mounted canopy. I often use a 5-foot Land-Pride rotary cutter on back. So far, it’s been nothing but normal maintenance: oil, oil filters, lube jobs, air filter, spark plugs, mower blades (it really didn’t need them as the original ones were still in decent shape). So far, no problems or issues. Has about 300 hours on hour meter. This is a great tractor. It has plenty of power and absolutely sips fuel (more like just sort of looks at it once in a while). Once again, you get what you pay for. I can’t believe how beefy the cast-steel parts are on this tractor, like the front axel, etc. Problem areas are as follows (all are minor). #1) because this uses so much cooling air for the radiator, intercooler & hydrostatic cooler it has a tendency to pull in that tiny grass-seed “poof” onto the white-nylon net in front of the radiator and that has to be cleaned every 3-4 hours or the temperature gauge goes up (and to clean that net I have to raise the hood, but the hood is heavy to raise AND put the prop rod into place for me at least –- it needs a lighter hood, or hood springs). #2) I now do NOT use the belly mower as it’s SO wide and has a side-discharge such that all the grass cannot make it to the right-side discharge opening; soooo... much of the cut grass gets pushed out the left-front corner of the mower deck and right up into my face (I have very dry eyes from my medications and my Eye Dr. told me to stop using that mower or wear goggles) so I now use a 6-foot Wood’s rear discharge finishing mower and so there’s no more grass clippings thrown up into my face plus the grass cuttings are much better spread around (that belly-mower was almost $3000 so why I bought it is beyond me!). #3) because the belly-mower deck rises up very little when you lift it the tractor gets hung up in mud easily (and therefore gets STUCK easily regardless of 4WD) so taking the deck off prevents the tractor from getting stuck easily, too. #4) the wheelbase is short so the tractor bobs a lot on bumpy ground as you mow, even with the air-ride seat it still does a number on my back; so I’m now rolling the lawn more to try to fix that bumpy hard ground we have (we have a very red-clay-rich soil here in Western NY); it could use a longer wheelbase. 

1944 Ford model 2N tractor (a.k.a. “Granny”). Well, anyone with a Ford N tractor knows all the issues they have. Granny is the only Ford tractor I have left (I once had 4) as she’s the easiest to steer and work for me (the steering is quite tight, surprisingly, as well as light because of the skinny front tires). But, Granny is only running on 3 good cylinders (one cylinder sleeve is loose and small parts of the sleeve are in the oil whenever it’s changed). Obviously, it needs a new short block or engine rebuild when I get the money together for that. Right now she’s semi-retired. Plus, she really doesn’t have enough power to properly run the 6-foot Woods finishing mower or 5-foot Land-Pride rotary cutter. What I’d love to have is a nice 8N with a Ford 6-cylinder flathead conversion (a V8 is too much power and too thirsty for the smaller gas tank required by such a conversion). But, those old I6’s are hard to find and I don’t have the strength for such a conversion project, so it’s merely a dream. But, the usual problem areas for a 2N are typical with Granny, such as: rusted out rear wheels; rusted out gas tank; carburetor needing a rebuild kit; thirsty for gas; etc. Please remember that just because these old 4-cylinder flatheads have a low HP rating doesn’t mean they’re low on torque, mind you. They do have a LOT of torque as a side-valve engine has a long-stroke design which gives more leverage on the crankshaft and thus more torque. What I’m surprised at is that nobody has developed a supercharger kit for these old flathead Ford tractors. Just as diesel engines and turbochargers go hand-in-hand, flathead engines and superchargers do also (a.k.a. blower). C’mon, guys, when’s somebody going to make a kit for old Ford N’s to add a blower???!!! Sure, we now have electronic ignition and dual exhaust kits. But, when are we gonna get a blower kit, hmm? I’m here waiting! Oh and if we’re talking about conversions here, too, what about a conversion kit to put a Ford Model A I4 flathead into an 8N? We’ve all seen the I6 and V8 flathead conversions, but I really think that Ford N tractors only need just a LITTLE MORE power, not a lot, so why not just use a slightly-larger Model A motor in a Ford 8N? Why hasn’t anyone seemingly done that? OK, so here’s my wish list: #1) Ford Model A engine into a Ford 8N conversion kit; and #2) supercharger conversion kit for a ford 8N. I’m waiting. 










2001 Sears Craftsman riding mower with 22HP V-twin gas engine, 48″ mower deck (NO LONGER OWN this riding mower). What a cheap piece of junk. Everything went to hell on this mower, especially on the mower deck: we replaced pulleys, bearing units, belts, etc., etc. We took very good care of this (my late stepfather was a retired school-bus mechanic so he did all the work) and still we had trouble. The front axle cracked, the engine block cracked where it was mounted, etc. You get what you pay for -- and this is proof. Sure, Sears riders look nice when they’re new and the price is great, but just wait until they’re a couple of years old. Maybe it would be good just to sell them after keeping them for only 2 years. Either way, you’re gonna pay for that low price by either getting rid of it at a big loss, or by replacing parts by the bushelfull. Take your choice!!! Like I said: “YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR AND SEARS RIDERS ARE JUNK.” 

Again, thanks for reading!

Bri
Check out my website: Buffalo Pitts
[After you click on the link above, click on the tiny "click here to proceed to link destination" link, otherwise you'll go nowhere.]


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## rj'sbarn

I've got over 400hrs on my Bota L3400 and have just done regular routine maintenance on it. The paint on the hood is starting to fade, but other than that, no gripes. The tractor I had before that was always the 3pt hydraulic control valve. I had the rear transmission cover off every 15 hours cleaning gunk out of it that the filter missed. The tractor I had 10 years ago was a Ford 9N that kept blowing coils and gumming up the carb with tank trash I couldn.t ever seem to be able to flush out.


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## FS5500

Hi Guys 
5 year old Craftsman FS550 with a 24 horse B&S V-Twin, 48 inch still mowing along with mostly general maintenance with the exception of a mandrel this season.
It's a real workhorse!
Chris


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## chandman

Honda 4514 38 inch mower bought used at 3 or 4 years and still mowing strong. Typical coil failure two years ago, repaired at a Honda Motor Cycle shop reasonably. New timing belt and water pump inspection at that time. I mow about 3/4 acres here in Winston-Salem, NC weekly from late march till mid November each year. THe mower must be a late 80's unit. I faithfully clean radiator an screen and blow off unit to keep it clean. Rarely use a hose. Oil is changed with 10w-30 at least once a year with good quality oil filter. Only replaced belts twice and have had one blade spindle go bad. It's been a good machine. Don't know what will replace this mower as Honda no longer makes them.


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## winston

Well I guess I will look like the village idiot here. I have a "supposedly refurbished" Yanmar YM2002D (1982 or so) that came through Vietnam before finding me. I have had it over 3 years now and have replaced both knuckle seals, crankshaft, 1 rod, rings, rod and crank bearings, etc, etc. I believe I am getting close to having a dependable little tractor. I sure like it when it is doing right.


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## Spikes

The towers that the blade spindles ride in on my Craftsman. Other than that the intake valve stud came loose the first year.

My Mother in Law has a brand new Troy Bilt that the wheels keep literally falling off.


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## Greenman

I have a craftsman and the only thing that has ever broke was the mandrel and the mandrel housing. The mandrel broke when I landed on a rock and the housing busted because I wouldn't stop Hehehe. The housing is made of aluminum also. My yard is more like a side of a mountain...literally...so it takes a beating.


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## kdegen

*Broken Parts*

Kubota B7200 regulator went -Thats it so far


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## kinoschmid

JD 165 hydro. key switch 2 times .transmission cooling fan . belt for blower every 2 years. used winter and summer for almost 25 years good machine.


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## TINBENDER7

My biggest experence with tractors is I bought a Sears Suburban back in 71 and flipped and it rolled down a hill chasing me hitting my foot with every step. I was not hurt Thank God. The tractor landed on it's hood. I called Sears as I had the maintaince contract on it and the girl after much laughter in the back ground,because she had yelled out my question, and the answer was call and tell them what I need and not tell the what happened, I said how do I explain why I need a hood, headlight ,steering wheel. etc she said do you need the oil changed just give the a list. I did and when I got home from work the tractor was setting in the carport all repaired.


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## GLanguell

Had a Bolens QT-17 in a previous marriage. The Kohler had a bad jug, lost the electric clutch and several spindles over the years. Blades and more blades... I sure miss that rig, 60" mower, Cab, 36" blower.

Currently own a 2000 Simplicity Legacy. Damn thing is rock solid. Only problem is, it back fires EVERYTIME I shut down. I did manage to break the tilt wheel mech. My own DA fault. Hauling a NHL hockey net around the property to the pond for the kids. Caught a corner on the ground while in a turn and SNAP! The tilt wheel mech was toast. Simplicity is very proud of their replacement assembly! Oh yeah, replaced the blades this season.


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## hilltopper34w

Blades, batteries & clutches. All my equipment is bought used.


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## BelarusBulldog

Bought my Honda HT4213 new. It has been very dependable so far. Replaced mower drive belt once, battery once, and one starter solenoid. I have two air filters which I clean and rotate after every cut. Everything else is original. ( OK, oil and filter have been changed regularly. )  As with any machine, maintenance is the key factor. Bye


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## mkfarnam

Murray lawn tractors, such as in FarmerTims avatar, are known for the gas tanks leaking at the center seam.


Craftsman lawn tractors are known to have weak spindle housings and 
have been known to break at light impact


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## Fisher

On my 9n. Ive had to replace the Gas Tank, Governor, Alternator, Carb and i busted one of my 3 point lifting arms once. My 600 both rear tires and rims they were water filled when i bought it and it froze one winter. My 2000 ive replaced both rear tires but they were bad when i bought them. my Farmall B i inherited and had to replace one of the front tires rim and axle.


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## hspaaij

JD 3140, didn't have enough time to do real damage yet, but when I bought it the plastic hood was cracked and the gas cap cover is missing. And oh yes, one signaling light is out. The front attachment (not the loader) handle is bent so I bet they 'bumped' into something. So, no real issues yet.


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## Alleykat

*Broken Parts*

I have replaced the clutch engagement lever assembly, brake pads for mower, throttle linkage and a couple of rear tires. Shear pins and the snowblower drive belt also were replaced this year. My first Craftsman, died a horrible "DEATH" after putting the connecting rod broke. It had major issues with belts, mower drive, ground drive and clutch belts. Brakes also needed new pads, pins and the brake lever replaced about three months before dying.


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## Maxify

*Gray Market Yanmar (Zen-noh)*

I have a Gray Market Japanese Zen-Noh (Yanmar 2210D) that I think the world owes a great debt for it's service both in Japan and here in the states. The legal stories could go on and on as to their their why's, how's and reasons for being here but they are here and are proven work horses.

My 27 hp works tirelessly here in the Florida heat with only front steering knuckles gasket replacement and a rear locking differential has been fixed and broken again.

As a 4X4 tractor the locking diff. is unnecessary for my needs. At least I haven't found a place I could get her out of with the front bucket pushing out of Florida muck and clay.

This little beast maintains an 80 acre equine preserve here in north Florida without so much as a whimper.

Not to mention the erosion repair after hurricane rains wash sand downhill.

Oh, yeah!? I do remember once a while back where a FEL hydraulic hose blew at the crimping and doused it's owner with it's contents. The Mrs. was quite amused....:dazed::lmao:


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## Mowerman

Tim ,have you heard of Bribbaree Tractor & Truck wreckers NSW . I'm sure they'd also have parts to suit your Tractor if you ever get stuck . Hope this helps you regards Larry .


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## Ernie

I own a 2006 GS6500 Craftsman garden tractor with a 54 inch deck with almost 600 hours on it an so far it has been a very dependable unit... I hit a stump and blew apart the center quill and bent a blade, so it wasnt a problem with the unit just me in a hurry.

As far as the most common problem I see every day with lawn and garden tractors is lack of maintenance. I see shredded belt and streering component problems as lack of wisdon of owning something mechanical by those with no knowledge of proper maintenance or ability to perform it. My Gs has the original belts and electric clutch which will go because of the hours on it..... not because they are a common problem. jmo


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## TennDirtdigger

My JD 990 has a cracked plastic issues.....Who on earth, knowing that a 4 wheel tractor w/ bucket and backhoe attachment, not to mention all the other attachments would make a tractor with a great power train and frame....make the body out of some flimsy half-a$$ plastic. Beats me! I guess if I kept it in the shed it would be pretty to look at
I got a JD 318 I bought new 21 years ago....been road hard and put away wet many times. Mower deck has been wore out for 10 years now. I patch and go. A new deck is $1500.00. Been a goodun!! Have to pay out the nose for parts and attachments are next to impossible to find unless your willing to give up your 1st born....

George


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## farmertim

mkfarnam said:


> Murray lawn tractors, such as in FarmerTims avatar, are known for the gas tanks leaking at the center seam.
> 
> 
> Craftsman lawn tractors are known to have weak spindle housings and
> have been known to break at light impact


Thanks for the heads up, now i know it won't just be evaporation or the local tramp drinking it away!!!!


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## jhon

I have a JD LA120 I purchased new in 2007 with under 100 hours on it. So far, the only thing I have replaced are the blades, the oil, filters and spark plugs. I had a few minor issues with it when I got it that was repaired (Adjustments) under the warranty. 

So I guess, nothing has broke


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## pclose

1972 Cub Cadet 129 Hydro w/ Mower. I've had it 10 years. Fixed Front wheel bearing, mower belt, deck spindle & the driveshaft fan. This is the most solidly built, reliable piece of equipment I have ever owned. It is due for an engine refresh (since I got it), some linkages are worn, and there is a slight hydro leak from a pipe. Every fall I commit to the winter fix, end up doing something else...and every Spring it fires right up. I have to add 1/2 qt of oil every time I mow my two acres.


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## urednecku

Only thing that's broke in the ~460 hours of my Kubota M7040 so far was the end of the forward/reverse shifter. 

Now the MF 165 is another story....several years ago the diff. lock pedal froze up, I've had a head gasket blow out between #2 & 3 cylinders (I probably over heated it), and now if I don't shut the fuel off it'll leak thru the injectors into the oil pan. 


Oh yea, and maybe a flat tire or 2.


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## dallasce

*Tractor Issues*

I bought a used Bolens G214 about 10 years ago and have had no problems with it at all...well once mice got into the wiring, but I don't think that counts.

I've had my Cub Cadet 149 for about two years. It has had carburetor problems and an engine seal go. Since the clutch had to be pulled before the seal could be repaired, and since the set screws in the clutch had to be drilled out and then repaired, it was very expensive. I'm still having carburetor problems...starts, then dies when under any load...and I just had it rebuilt. Before these problems, it would die after mowing about 30 minutes. It would start up right away, but then die again. Since I can't keep it running right now, I don't know if that problem has been fixed. I'm going to take is somewhere else to be worked on.

My Case 446 had carburetor problems that have been resolved. My clutch went out and had it replaced. But now I have to keep a strap on it so it will remain engaged. Otherwise it will ease itself out. I've only had it for a few months, but really enjoy it.

I also have a 16 hp Murray. It is a real trouper. The only problem I've had with it in about 10 years of use is that the engine kept coming loose from the frame. Finally, I had someone re-drill the mounting holes in the engine and have had no problems since. 

Once I changed my 1948 Ford 8n to a 12 volt system, I've had no problems with it. At one point I had someone build up the manifold so it didn't leak any more, but I've had it for about 5 years and runs really well.


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## mgstumm

I've got a 2009 Cub Cadet LTX1040. Used for 2 seasons (live in MN and only use it during the summer). It has about 26 hours on it. The only thing I've had to fix/replace was the battery (about a week ago).


----------



## Dugout

Wow guys, thanks for all the responses!


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## gokarterkid25

in 4x4 trucks diesiels the drive train under the truck tends to break alot


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## Hoodoo Valley

gokarterkid25 said:


> in 4x4 trucks diesiels the drive train under the truck tends to break alot


Has this happened to you before?


----------



## the professor

JD L120- several mower deck belts, pto clutch, torn seat on crease, transmission belt

JD 210- steering wheel breaks at union between spokes and wheel, bad design


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## ocmoses

I have had the most trouble with the deck spindle mandrels on my AYP (Craftsman and Husqvarna) mowers. These things are a P.O.S. AYP could surely do a better job of engineering! The fact that they are some type of "pot aluminum" and attach the way that they do is asking for trouble. I have a cut in half plastic 55 gallon drum 2/3 full of broken mandrel housings to go to the recyclers. I have a severe Fire Ant problem in my area and the dirt mound that they build will break the mandrel housings if it is dry. *MESSAGE TO AYP----DO A BETTER JOB! *


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## ironman6356

I'm new to the forum , so I'll just say Hi, I'm a horseshoer, half assed mechanic , gotta a Case 1953 tractor, a project, a Montgomery Ward lawn Tractor from my father inlaw don't know how old it is , like it though ,small one I just fixed gas in oil , need to rebuild carb, cleaned crankcase breather, carb , new plug , sharpned blades, cleaned up, works fine . I would say deck problems, here the grass is thick , good bit of rain, starting problems, [ no winter matan. ] my Case Ithink is posesed by evil spirts it hates me , I'll get back to you on it, first have to change it to 12 volt. ironma6356


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## ocmoses

*Kubota L4850*

I had *cracks* to develop in the shuttle shift housing on this tractor. I notified Kubota and the southeastern district representative did come to my farm. The line of BS that he gave me would fill a tandem dump truck to overflowing! He said, and I quote," the reason the part failed was because I had attached an aftermarket, three point hitch backhoe (Bush Hog Brand) to the machine. If I had used a Kubota brand, it would not have happened because the Kubota brand has a sub-frame with it."
I have a front-end loader on this tractor which already has a sub-frame to the rear axles. I don't know where this fool thinks another "subframe" would attach. Incidentally, the shuttle shift housing costs almost $2000.00 plus tax, plus freight. Kubota left me "high and dry" so now I tell everyone that I know that is even thinking of buying a tractor my story and suggest buying a mule instead. At least you know what kind of manure you are going to get.


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## steve2240

*Fuel pump*

JD 2240.... and only because I dropped it on a rebuild.


----------



## 434cornhusker

Not too many problems, my old 434 is a great machine, a little leaky from here and there but not bad. 
I'm having troubles with the carb on my SS16 and can't get it running, and have heard the old Onan engines can be that way.


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## mkfarnam

farmertim said:


> Thanks for the heads up, now i know it won't just be evaporation or the local tramp drinking it away!!!!


To seal a gas tank leak, make sure the surface is clean and dry and put a thick coat of clear "Nail polish" over the leak and let it dry. 
This is better than "JB Weld", because JB Weld isn't gas resistant and only works temporariliy.
In my business, I used clear Nail polish to seal off welch plugs on and inside 2 Cycle carburetors.:thumbsup:


----------



## mkfarnam

dallasce said:


> I bought a used Bolens G214 about 10 years ago and have had no problems with it at all...well once mice got into the wiring, but I don't think that counts.
> 
> I've had my Cub Cadet 149 for about two years. It has had carburetor problems and an engine seal go. Since the clutch had to be pulled before the seal could be repaired, and since the set screws in the clutch had to be drilled out and then repaired, it was very expensive. I'm still having carburetor problems...starts, then dies when under any load...and I just had it rebuilt. Before these problems, it would die after mowing about 30 minutes. It would start up right away, but then die again. Since I can't keep it running right now, I don't know if that problem has been fixed. I'm going to take is somewhere else to be worked on.
> 
> My Case 446 had carburetor problems that have been resolved. My clutch went out and had it replaced. But now I have to keep a strap on it so it will remain engaged. Otherwise it will ease itself out. I've only had it for a few months, but really enjoy it.
> 
> I also have a 16 hp Murray. It is a real trouper. The only problem I've had with it in about 10 years of use is that the engine kept coming loose from the frame. Finally, I had someone re-drill the mounting holes in the engine and have had no problems since.
> 
> Once I changed my 1948 Ford 8n to a 12 volt system, I've had no problems with it. At one point I had someone build up the manifold so it didn't leak any more, but I've had it for about 5 years and runs really well.


Sounds like you have a compression leak on your Cub Cadet.


----------



## mkfarnam

ironman6356 said:


> I'm new to the forum , so I'll just say Hi, I'm a horseshoer, half assed mechanic , gotta a Case 1953 tractor, a project, a Montgomery Ward lawn Tractor from my father inlaw don't know how old it is , like it though ,small one I just fixed gas in oil , need to rebuild carb, cleaned crankcase breather, carb , new plug , sharpned blades, cleaned up, works fine . I would say deck problems, here the grass is thick , good bit of rain, starting problems, [ no winter matan. ] my Case Ithink is posesed by evil spirts it hates me , I'll get back to you on it, first have to change it to 12 volt. ironma6356


All older Montgomery Wards products/equipment, with the model # starting with TMO, are owned by MTD.


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## redrooster

1948 8n, the biggest problem i've had is breaking the dist cap. think i've broke 4 of them. i have the new king pin and will install next week after i pick up my new rebuilt motor.


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## DBRINKMANN

*Craftsman 1000(?)*

Something recently broke on the mower deck and I'm not sure what it is. But the only way I can disengage the blades is to turn the engine off.
Anyone have any ideas?


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## mkfarnam

DBRINKMANN said:


> Something recently broke on the mower deck and I'm not sure what it is. But the only way I can disengage the blades is to turn the engine off.
> Anyone have any ideas?


What type of mower is it? Do the blades engage when lowering the deck? Do you have an electric PTO or or are the blades engaged by a lever?
This information is needed to figure out the problem.


----------



## 98Murray

My Craftsman,Yard-Man, and 98' Murray Ultra are working fine but all the other tractors are sitting around waiting for repair. Oh I forgot, on my 98' Murray Ultra the bearing in the center deck spindel went out and the shaft has a crack in it so now I got to get a new spindle. Well I don't need to get a spindle, I could just get a bearing and a shaft but I just find it easier to get another spindle.


----------



## bron

*MTD lawn tractor*

Only problem I have had is the starter motor failing. But I did not realize it was going bad for quite some time. Just thought the tractor was getting old. With a new starter, it fires right up.


----------



## Country Boy

I currently have a Ariens commercial grade zero turn mower, nothing broken on it yet. As for the shop I work at in town, I'd say the most common thing to break/go wrong on a tractor or zero turn is the fuel system. I'll bet over half the units that come into the shop need carb work due to bad gas or varnish built up in the system. Second on the list would probably be mower pans. They get bent to hell, the blades hit things and bend, mandrels break from the blades hitting stuff, support pins fall out and the deck tips to one side, etc. I've gotten pretty crafty at fixing old MTD decks when they fall apart. I have one customer that uses his to mow the woods by his house, and he keeps folding the leading edge on the discharge side back into the blades. I reinforced the front edge with 1/4" plate steel, and he still managed to bend it. The last time he hit it, the blade folded back about 30 degrees, and the mandrel snapped in half. Can't convince him to cut on a higher setting no matter how hard I try.


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## jcaravalho

have broken the hydraulic pump for the fel due to dead heading and broken my york rake due to backing into a tree as i was sliding backwards down a trail other wise have had pretty good luck with my kubota l245dt although i can see a rebuiild coming up on the power steering piston where fluid is seeping past


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## LostValley

*Broken Parts*

Hard to know where to start. Primary use tractors are a JD 300b, Case 580C extendahoe and an older Massey Ferguson. Case has ruptured some hydraulic hoses, Massey brakes are NG and not fixable (i realize anything should be but this one...even authorized shop couldn't fix) and JD I broke one of the vertical bars attached to 3 point. JD and Case both have new injector pumps and starters (wear vs break). Anything will break if used long enough or abused.

Worse break was a 15' offset disc with multiple gangs of blades that idjit drove over an old well head in field. He stopped the D6, evaluated scenario and tried to back off the concrete. Tore one of disc gangs off, bent 5/8" steel frame and tore out attachment part from rest of frame. D6 got some power....yep. Hope this helps.


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## Lawrence1210

So, along with my previous post about my older diesel tractor.

I also have an AYP clone, with 42" deck. Same basic riding mower sold at Sears, K-Mart, and under a number of brand names.

Has a 18hp Briggs/Straton. Solid engine as long as I keep the oil in it and clean fuel.

Biggest machine problem has been the transmission. Was rebuilt at some point prior to me acquiring it and was assembled wrong. My dad got curious one day and tinkered with it, and got it put back together right. I had to find a little spring for the control arm for the Clutch/Break rod, kinda irritating having the breaks/clutch slide in and out on its' own.

Biggest mowing problem has been the mowing deck. Have pretty much had to rebuild the entire deck one little piece at a time. Welding broken mounting brackets, reattaching wheel/caster mounts.

I have to remember it is a Mower not a Tractor. It won't take much abuse.

Biggest overall headache is keeping the deck adjusted so it mows level. if any adjutment is bent just a bit or loose, or the tires aren't the right exact pressure, it won't mow level.

However, when its all adjusted it does actually mow pretty well. And I guess that is the most important part.


----------



## breid1966

I have a two y/o Craftsman LT (20 hp/42" deck). The warranty ran out in April and guess what?! I was cutting grass for the 3rd time this season two weeks ago and it just quit! No warnings - just quit! Sounded like no gas getting in so I cleaned the carb, rebuilt it, etc. New fuel lines, filter and even gas. Finally got it to turn over and it sounded like shotguns going off. Replaced the plug (2nd time in a year) and still nothing. Now the starter won't turn the engine over! Checked the solenoid and it was fine. Replaced the starter and still nothing! Craftsman seems to have taken a serious dive in the toilet over the last couple years! Bought and returned 3, yes, THREE Craftsman weed eaters last year and finally ended up with a Husky. Anyone have any thoughts or ideas on my riding mower (other than buy a new one!)?


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## mkfarnam

Lawrence1210 said:


> So, along with my previous post about my older diesel tractor.
> 
> I also have an AYP clone, with 42" deck. Same basic riding mower sold at Sears, K-Mart, and under a number of brand names.
> 
> Has a 18hp Briggs/Straton. Solid engine as long as I keep the oil in it and clean fuel.
> 
> Biggest machine problem has been the transmission. Was rebuilt at some point prior to me acquiring it and was assembled wrong. My dad got curious one day and tinkered with it, and got it put back together right. I had to find a little spring for the control arm for the Clutch/Break rod, kinda irritating having the breaks/clutch slide in and out on its' own.
> 
> Biggest mowing problem has been the mowing deck. Have pretty much had to rebuild the entire deck one little piece at a time. Welding broken mounting brackets, reattaching wheel/caster mounts.
> 
> I have to remember it is a Mower not a Tractor. It won't take much abuse.
> 
> Biggest overall headache is keeping the deck adjusted so it mows level. if any adjutment is bent just a bit or loose, or the tires aren't the right exact pressure, it won't mow level.
> 
> However, when its all adjusted it does actually mow pretty well. And I guess that is the most important part.


AYP (American Yard Product) is an affiliation of Sears/Craftsman.


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## johns427

18 year old Sears GT6000 6-speed w/ B&S 18 used for mowing, snowblowing, plowing since new. Bendix gear on starter failed when only 1 year old. Ground and mower belts and general wear items; plugs, filters, etc. Adjusted electric PTO to specs last season. Replaced lower steering shaft bushing. Replaced seat. Removed and cleaned carb once in 18 years. Replaced one torn front tire. That's it! I would never let anyone other than myself use it or work on it. I purchased an older GT 6000 this year to share the work load. It's in better cosmetic condition and has an electric lift.


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## Dugout

Guys, I'm not going to be able to return all messages, I just wanted to thank everyone for their participation!


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## Eddie 70

I bought my Simplicity Broadmoor used with about 100 hrs on it. So far, knock on wood nothing has broken. The throttle position will not stay put. I change the oil and filter every fall. Pull the deck and pressure wash under it. Clean the grease fittings and grease the deck bearings. Hopefully it will last as long as some that you guys have.


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## mkfarnam

johns427 said:


> 18 year old Sears GT6000 6-speed w/ B&S 18 used for mowing, snowblowing, plowing since new. Bendix gear on starter failed when only 1 year old. Ground and mower belts and general wear items; plugs, filters, etc. Adjusted electric PTO to specs last season. Replaced lower steering shaft bushing. Replaced seat. Removed and cleaned carb once in 18 years. Replaced one torn front tire. That's it! I would never let anyone other than myself use it or work on it. I purchased an older GT 6000 this year to share the work load. It's in better cosmetic condition and has an electric lift.


That sounds like a Roper(Sears) model with a Horizonal shaft engine and the drive belt pulley assembly (for the attachments) up front.

On the GT 6000. Do you know what the GT stands for?


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## yankeeboy

my JD lx173 always goes through a fuel pump every other year or more, but my buddies case david brown always runs out of fuel and always needs me to go over to bleed it out nice tractor it is tho other than that its just routine stuff change oil and grease cause its cheaper than parts )


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## Texas TRex

Believe it or not, after a season of pulling, the only thing we 'tweaked' on this 1972 Sears was the front spindles. I didnt think we would pull as well as we did, hoped, but didnt expect to......I can only hope 2011 goes as well. 










We have another Craftsman, that we mow with. The only thing nearing failure, are some of the non-greaseable fixtures on the suspension...which we may replace and 'redesign' so that we can lube them.

I think, because so many people no longer perform maintenance on products, that the designs are now for the 'maintenance free' type of product....which, decreases the life expectancy. With that, the failure of components with high cycle volume, like suspension components, will likely be high on the failure list.


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## Texas TRex

Dugout said:


> Guys, I'm not going to be able to return all messages, I just wanted to thank everyone for their participation!



pretty interesting thread, by the way....I hope I will not be able to contribute much, but if I do, we'll call it Research and Development


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## TINBENDER7

I have a post from before but remembered that I have bought an older Sears Suburban Gt 18 to replace the newer Craftsman 2007 42" 24 hp lawn tractor. I believe the the old one will out preform and outlast the new one. I have a 48" mower deck in nice shape, a 3 point hitch and am looking for plow and disc. This is like only a bigger engine then the one I bought and turned over in 1971.


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## johns427

MK, it's a 1993 vertical shaft B&S. I believe the GT stands for garden tractor. I have a 1991 GT6000 with a horizontal shaft Kohler 18 hp withe the belts for mower in front and ground drive belt off the rear of the engine. I use that one for mowing and plowing, and the '93 for snow blowing. It's funny, I bought a new Husqvarna hydro this spring for mowing and returned it when I realized what a piece of tin it was.

John


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## Lawrence1210

Texas TRex said:


> Believe it or not, after a season of pulling, the only thing we 'tweaked' on this 1972 Sears was the front spindles. I didnt think we would pull as well as we did, hoped, but didnt expect to......I can only hope 2011 goes as well.


Thanks for the picture, that is awesome.

arty:


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## Lawrence1210

mkfarnam said:


> AYP (American Yard Product) is an affiliation of Sears/Craftsman.


Ah, I assmed that was common knowledge, but then I shouldn't ass-ume things like that.

I've seen AYP build mowers like mine sold under a number of brand names. Easy to spot given they all have the exact same 42" mower deck. I guess onced they find a design that works, they stick with it. So thumbs up to AYP and their affiliations.

>>>

So... swinging way off topic...

When I bought my Ford 1210 with the 60" deck I was expecting to be able to mow more grass faster, than with the 42" mower.

Not so. I can mow more grass, but not faster. The little 19hp diesel has to power both the mower deck and the tractor itself, so keepign the RPMs up means traveling slow.

The 18hp v-twin gasser actually mows well at a faster travel speed. So what I thought was a clunky old mower just to get by on, has turned into something quite useful. Plus it is simple for me to work on. Whereas the bigger diesl tractor is somewhat beyond my capabilities other than basic maintenance.

Biggest difference is the torque on the 4x4 diesel and is well beyond what the 2x4 gasser can produce. Given I have a gravel driveway to maintain and a couple significant hills to mow, the little Ford's Cat-1 capable Cat-0 advisable 3-point offers a much wider range pf capabilities, such as a drag blade for gravel and snow.

The drag blade on the Ford has already paid for itself in one season. The overall cost of the Ford mower/mower deck will take a couple season to recover.

The cost of the AYP paid for itself in about 2 months.


----------



## mkfarnam

johns427 said:


> MK, it's a 1993 vertical shaft B&S. I believe the GT stands for garden tractor. I have a 1991 GT6000 with a horizontal shaft Kohler 18 hp withe the belts for mower in front and ground drive belt off the rear of the engine. I use that one for mowing and plowing, and the '93 for snow blowing. It's funny, I bought a new Husqvarna hydro this spring for mowing and returned it when I realized what a piece of tin it was.
> 
> John


What I had pictured was the OLD Sears/Roper GT 101 models from the 60's or 70's with a 10hp cast iron Tecumseh horizonal engine. The only plastic on these were the seat covers and the choke and throttle knobs.

There was one thing that made the old GT models unique.
In all my years of repairing Lawn/Garden and Construction equipment, this is the only small tractor that had a cigarette lighter on the dash. Now this was in S, California. 
I'm still curious about this. Has anyone had or seen a Lawn, Garden, or utility tractor (not a Farm tractor) with a cigarette lighter on it?.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Now that would be cool! Does it have an ash tray too?:lmao:


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## doughoover

Biggest problem I had was when the roof fell in on top of it (heavy snow load).
Other than that, some minor electrical problems, The hydraulic pump shaft keeps wearing, and the darn exhaust manifold keeps breaking when I hit an overhead limb while mowing. International 284, 1976, Warranty expired a while ago.
I think I need to re-core the radiator and replace the water pump this summer. Things started getting hotter than usual at the end of last season.


----------



## BlindRef

I have been lucky so far with my tractor. I bought it new in 07, so really no problems to mention
other than a battery going bad in the warranty period. I bought a John Deere 2305.


----------



## dangeroustoys56

I had a gas tank leak on me a while back - wasnt on one of my 7 murrays - it was off a MTD i got off my wifes step brother- i filled the tank half full with gas- next day it was empty. I noticed some RTV on the side of the tank - it literally fell right out and underneath was a gaping hole from a grinder blade - RTV is NOT a good fixer for plastic gas tanks......shoulda known better then using it the way he hob jobbs stuff together.


I had an old dynamark years ago with a ciggy lighter - my 69 wheelhorse has one as well .


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## smiffy

FE35, 4 cylinder petrol:

1) Dropped valve through piston. Ouch. Goes better than ever before, though, since local agricultural engineers rebuilt the engine 

2) Dynamo seized - turned out it had disintegrated internally. Totally. Bits of rotor winding, commutator, stator winding, all fell out when I took the end off. Did an alternator conversion, now the battery charges properly for the first time ever.


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## stewartroyce

I operated a Euclid TC12 many years ago. It had been trucked to the location in the 2 separate halves. (Those familiar with this model will understand) The mechanics had put it back together the previous day. When I started to move it, I thought it would separate into two halves, fortunately, I noticed that each half was not running together as a tractor. The foreman told me that it was ready to go, but the mechanics were not finished assembling it. The result was that no damage was done, and the mechanics put it back together in a few hours. That big green lizard was fun to operate and had a lot of power, It was a very loud machine, I always used ear protection and sometimes the fumes from those (2) 6/71 2 cycle diesels was quite bad, depending on the location and the wind.


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## stewartroyce

rsmith335 said:


> I have a 1951 Ford 8N that's a piece of poop, replaced the rear rims and tires, points, plug wires, changed the oil, spark plugs and put gas in it. You would think they would have made a better tractor.


The Ford 8N is one of the most dependable tractors ever built. That is one reason why there are so many still around, many still used every day , and other beautifully restored models for shows.


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## Bri

stewartroyce said:


> The Ford 8N is one of the most dependable tractors ever built. That is one reason why there are so many still around, many still used every day , and other beautifully restored models for shows.


Henry Ford knew how to do things right. I have an old video from Ford about the factory operations and such from back then during the N-tractor days, and it shows how the gears were all properly heat treated with electrical resistance heaters, and so forth and so on. Just like the Model T and Model A cars, the Ford tractor was built to be sturdy and easy to repair by just about anyone. 

I've also read many of the various books on Ford tractors, too. The same thing is said in those, such as designing the 9N, 2N, 8N so that it could be shipped sideways in a railcar to cut costs and thus sell to the framers cheaper (after all, farms are not exactly high-profit businesses). I'm a mechanical engineer, and I've owned 4 old Ford tractors. Like an idiot, I've stared at them for countless hours looking them over and studying their design details. I think they were ahead of their time, for sure, although Ford refused to sell larger sizes for too long. 

Add to that the huge productions volumes and you have new and used parts readily available at low prices nowadays. If you're just starting out with a used tractor, an old Ford 9N, 2N, 8N, NAA, 100 Series, or American-made 1000 Series is just about your best bet! I remember someone once saying that here in our little town that at one time "there was a Ford tractor at every other house." I think that was likely true. 

Thanks for listening (and sorry this is a bit off-topic!)! And, check out my website: Buffalo Pitts

Bri


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## johns427

mkfarnam said:


> What I had pictured was the OLD Sears/Roper GT 101 models from the 60's or 70's with a 10hp cast iron Tecumseh horizonal engine. The only plastic on these were the seat covers and the choke and throttle knobs.
> 
> There was one thing that made the old GT models unique.
> In all my years of repairing Lawn/Garden and Construction equipment, this is the only small tractor that had a cigarette lighter on the dash. Now this was in S, California.
> I'm still curious about this. Has anyone had or seen a Lawn, Garden, or utility tractor (not a Farm tractor) with a cigarette lighter on it?.


The new Husky that i bought has a lighter socket, but I believe it's to power an ipod. I did have an old sears garden tractor w/12 horse Tecumseh years ago but it's at the ex wife's house.

John


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## CRussell

*Broken Parts*

I bought my three current tractors used, and broken.
1969 Wheel Horse Raider 12
This tractor had sat for 6 yrs before I got it so the carb had to be rebuilt and a new battery. Other than that belts, blades and rotted rear tires, that is until 2 yrs ago the original motor of 40 yrs started to knock lightly. So it is setting waiting for funds to rebuild the motor.

1979 Cub cadet 1250
I got this tractor as a basket case. The motor mounts went bad and the PO ran it until the drive shaft blew. I rebuilt the drive shaft (used and new parts) and replaced the motor mounts. The mower deck was rotten so I had to find a differnent one. I used the belts that came with the deck until the one that runs the spindles broke and I just replaced it. The front blade had a narrow frame sub frame so I modified that to work. This winter I broke the sub frame when I hit a crack in the road at full speed. The tire were replaced with more agressive one but I still have the rears and use them in the summer. I also had to replace the head after it backfired and blew the spark plug out and ripped the treads out. It runs great, other than a little smoke, and is one tough SOB that is hard to stop.

1995 Simplicity Soveigrn 18
I got this tractor because it would not stay running. The PO was told it was the ignition module, but it was the circuit breaker. I replaced the switch because the PO broke it and used a screwdriver to start it. It still needs the relay inline before the starter. Other than that was a seal on the hydro pump. It runs great and mows twice a week.


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## farmertim

Ed Hill said:


> Kubota B1750 replaced the seal in the hydro pump. Kubota L4330, the slow moving vehicle bracket fell off the Woods backhoe the other day. I expect the screws and bracket are out in the yard somewhere. I am lucky to be old enough to be losing short term memory, so I don't have to dwell on my self-inflicted damage as much as I did when younger.


Ed that's funny, losing short term mem.... Ooohh look at the butterfly!!


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## Plowthesidewalk

*Cigarette Lighter*



johns427 said:


> The new Husky that i bought has a lighter socket, but I believe it's to power an ipod. I did have an old sears garden tractor w/12 horse Tecumseh years ago but it's at the ex wife's house.
> 
> John


I think one of the newer Craftsman garden tractors has an auxillary power outlet on it that you can put a cigarette lighter in. Of course you have to buy the lighter somewhere else but it should work.


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## fordgmc

I going to give you my 2 cents worth . Most real garden tractors were made I 'll 2005 and back . The reason I say this is that when Ingersoll could no longer compete with the mass produced cheap MTD brands . As far as I am concerned the older tractors where worth repairing and had simple mechanical design . With proper preventative maintence the older tractors would last 30 plus years , try that with a box store tractor not going to happen. Look at all the great older stuff still around Cadet , John Derre ,Case and many more. 
All I can say we as Americans sold our selfs out for cheap store box peices of crap. When the mower needs deck bearings you through the mower away because the deck is rotted out .


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## dangeroustoys56

Fordgmc: Ill agree with that- my tractor collection ranges from 1969 to 2003 and various makes/models - i can tell between my older tractors and newer ones the thickness of metal is definitely thinner , the motors are all flathead/opposed flathead twin briggs - all run awsome with no internal work done - and took very little getting them running again.

Most the real repairs were on the decks, due to PO neglect , with my 80's craftsman decks being the pain ( non serviceable mandrels) - other then that most took under $20 to put back into mowing duty. 

It was good for me because most were dirt cheep/free - but for $20 VS a new $3000 and up machine doesnt make a whole lot of sense to me, specially in todays economy.

Welcome to the throw away society.......


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## markiemark

I have a john deere 165 hydro, cub cadet 1282 hydro, and 2 old gravely 2 wheel tractors. Other than a belt here and there, I haven't had any problems so far. That is a big tractor!


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## mkfarnam

The oldest ZTR's that come in for repair are,Dixon and Hustler.
My boneyard consists of appox, 175 lawn tractors. Since my last check, 92% of the tractors in the boneyard are 2003 and newer models.


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## JOHNNY WACKO

In 20 years it mite be easyer to list the parts i haven't broke on my equipment.


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## iha414

I have a International mc cormick A414 tractor and have had few problems with it considering its age. the alternator has given up, all other problems are user made eg hole in radiator after running into a tree, and clutch stuck after being jammed in gear and in a bog for 6 months. wear issues are a front tyre leak, battery replacements.

the 95 murray rideon mower has had a couple of issues that are not maintenance. the filter inside the fuel tank broke apart. i have had to replace both sets of bearings on both the spindles on the cutting deck twice over the time i have used it (6 years). usual wear issues with blades, belts and batteries. the hydrostatic drive may be starting to show signs of problems, but could just be air. it was replaced by the previous owner.


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## Dugout

Thanks again everyone! I'm going to start getting all the data together soon.


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## dangeroustoys56

Id have to put my new repair under 'maintenence' - im swapping transaxles in my 97 MTD mastercut - after some issues with its brakes and 'excessive speed' - due to a too short rear drive belt from PO - the trans im putting in has been upgraded with greasable zerk fittings ( in order to service it better) and 'adjusted wheels' ( to remove them easier) , that came out of a modded MTD im tinkering with.

When the deck came off, i noticed a worn mandrel bering - so thatll need replacing as well.


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## parapower

since ii have a degree in automotive i have to say tires, older tractors had the ignition points and plugs fouling out. tires and inner tubes get a lot of abuse. waterpumps, and radiators as they get plugged up with debree in-turn causing the tractor to overheat. lights are a problem as most get knocked off and broken. battteries are always needing replaced especially the ones that require water from time to time. this item get the most abuse. if u talk about lawn tractors/mowers the belts and blades get abused. i hope this helps

don


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## 1adamb

I have a 1997 mtd garden tractor 800 series, since I've owned it, had to replace 2 idler pullies, and the deck needs some welding.


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## wjjones

Still havent figured out whats going on with mine lately but as soon as i do i will post it here..


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## mkfarnam

wjjones said:


> Still havent figured out whats going on with mine lately but as soon as i do i will post it here..


What problems are you having?


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## wrenchcarol2000

I am trying to figure out how to ask a question in here, How do you do it?


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## cj06

wrenchcarol2000 said:


> I am trying to figure out how to ask a question in here,* How do you do it*?



well you just did ! * How do you do it ?*

now that you asked your first question what do you want to know or need to know ?


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## mkfarnam

wrenchcarol2000 said:


> I am trying to figure out how to ask a question in here, How do you do it?


just ask it. What the problem your having?


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## wrenchcarol2000

I was mowing, stopped and shut off the blade. It is electric engager. When I went to engage it, it wouldnt. It is belt driven, but it is hydrostatic also. Could it be the switch?


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## mkfarnam

wrenchcarol2000 said:


> I was mowing, stopped and shut off the blade. It is electric engager. When I went to engage it, it wouldnt. It is belt driven, but it is hydrostatic also. Could it be the switch?


That would be the first thing to check. Do you here any noise when you pull the switch?


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## johns427

If the switch is good and you have 12 volts to the clutch, it may be that the clutch is worn and needs to be adjusted. The clutch will not even make a sound when the gap gets too wide. Your owner's manual should have the procedure. The gap on a typical Wagner clutch is .012" and is adjusted with feeler gauge in each of the three slots around the perimeter. Tighten each of the three spring-loaded adjusting nuts just snug to the feeler gauge. These clutches seem to last a long time. Mine is 17 years old and only been adjusted for the first time this past winter. Works like new again. Hope you can fix it.

John S.


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## wolf21

have a kubota b8200dt...no problems

ford 2110 compact, gets water in the hydraulics......which is actually how i found the forums....googled the problem and there was a thread on here with someone who had the same problems, and the instructions provided by the crew here were spot-on and easy to follow, got it all fixed on my own


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## Lawrence1210

*916A Mower Deck cables*

I just had to repair the cables holding up my mower deck. That was an interesting project... but not to difficult.

Cost $15 in hardware and cable to replace both cables.

The wire rope cables are either 3/32" or 1/8". I used 1/8" inch. The old cables appear to be 3/32".

I'd recommend using plastic covered wire rope.

The complete cable length is 97.5 inches from outside to outside of the finish length. This includes outside to outside of the thimbles.

I started with an 88" cable. I cut 8.25 inch of the plastic off each end.

I used the original thimbles to wrapped the cable around at the ends. The 8.25 inches of non-covered cable gave me the right length to wrap the cable back on itself around the thimble, touching where the plastic starts. (The extra 1/4 inch accounts for the length lost while wrapping around the thimble.)

When completed this gives 4" of bare cable wrapped and clamped at each end.

This is important because the front mounts have a small spring loaded pulley and if the cable wrap is longer than 4" it hits the little pulley.

Problem 1:

Figuring out the right length of cable. See notes above. 88" is absolute minimum length to start with. It might be wiser to start with a bit longer cable in case you want to adjust the length later. Easier to cut off a bit, very hard to add anything...

Shoot for a final overall length of cable from end of thimble to end of thimble should be minimum 97.5 inches. (Plus a half inch probably isn't worth worrying about, as long as both cables are the same length.) (Minus a half inch might be too short when raising the deck to the full up position.)

If replacing both cables at the same time, just make them both the same length... obviously...

Problem 2:

When buying the little clamps, you must squeeze them close together to get three on the cable, while not hitting the little pulley. This isn't the way they are supposed to work, though.

So check into crimp-on or press-on clamps for the cable at the front mount. The back has plenty of space for the bolt-clamps.

Problem 3:

Two small pulleys on the mower deck have to be removed to assemble the new completed cable. These pulleys can be hard to reach without jacking up the tractor.

My solution is to assemble only one side of the cable, feed the cable through the pulleys, and then assemble the other end.

What I will do different next time.

I would have the front of the cables pressed/crimped to avoid interference with the little spring-loaded pulley. (Found out that Home Depot has the tools right there, after I bought all my stuff someplace else that didn't have the crimping hardware/tool.)

I will then fish the cable through the pulleys front to back, then assemble/clamp the cables at the back with the little bolt-clamps.

Doing this may change what length of cable is necessary, and how much plastic to remove at either end. That is something us to figure out for ourself depending on our final choice of reassembly.

I will continue using the little bolt-clamps on the back in case I want to adjust the lengths later on.

Final consideration for crimping versus clamping.

Crimping might be the better option considering cable stretch.

When using the little clamps (2 or 3 of them, usually 3 of them) we have to check them on a regular basis for tightness and/or movement due to cable stretching/shrinking issues.


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## jhngardner367

*Warranty???*

Fellas,I was wishing I had my camera with me,yesterday!! I had a guy bring in a 3-month-old Huskee lawn tractor-----IN 2 PIECES! He bought it at one of the local box stores,fully assembled.He mowed his yard several times,but ,Tuesday,
as he finished mowing,the frame broke in half,just beneath the dash panel!He wanted me to weld the frame together!Instead,I put in a warranty request,and the factory rep came out,took one look at it,and asked for help loading it up!Then,he wrote an authorization for my customer,that MORE than covered the cost of the tractor!!I'd say that's pretty good customer service!


----------



## Bri

Regarding the above story on the tractor that broke in half... the obvious rhetorical question that everyone has: what good is great customer service on a lawn tractor that breaks in half? 

Well, maybe that tractor's frame issue was just a fluke, but I keep hearing horror stories about many so-called quality tractors (e.g., Cub-Cadet and others) I have to wonder what's going on with the engineers who design there things? Do they really have no soul? And do they really have to listen to the know-it-all-but-don't marketing droids who think "cheaper is better because better bonuses is better?" BTW, can you tell I'm an engineer? Thank Gawd I'm on early-retirement due to disability. 

Sorry to go kinda-sorta off-topic here!

Bri


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## jhngardner367

*yup!*

Well,that's sorta what the factory rep said....but the words were saltier!I didn't have my camera,and the look on his face was indescribable!He had a Box van,so we just loaded it in,and he left.He did say though,that it looks like the frame was weakened by a bad press set,and caused a shearing of the metal,instead of just a forming.


----------



## jhngardner367

By the way,guys,I was an auto mechanic,for over 20 years,and I actually had an automotive designer tell me that they try to design cars,trucks,or other products,so that the OWNER can't repair them,but a shop can. That's why I drive a 1985 Chevy 1/2 ton .NO COMPUTERS,SENSORS OR DOO-DADS,just a workin' truck!


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## anotherleash2

OK... 74 Bolens G14..

Ujoints for the Deck
Mounts for the deck
Deck rusted out
Spindle (Mandrel?) bearings
front axle pivot shaft
steering joints (x4)
Tires
Carb
Muffler
Exhaust pipes
Seat
Ignition Module (MY Fault)
Clutch bearing

BTW, I didn't buy it new, and this one was really beat up when I got it in 2006.


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## St.George

G'Day Farmertim.
BEAUT gear you got. But a skid plate bolted to the bottom frame is surely a must with the tough timber you got there.


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## jmags

I own a Kubota L3400, was a harvest rental when I bought used from the dealer. It's about 3 years old now with about 300 hrs on it. Until recently, haven't had any problems with it and love it. I took it in to the dealer two weeks ago because I have had problems with the PTO running and not shutting off unless I turned the engine off. I checked the basic stuff I could before I called the dealer and made an appointment to have it checked out. Fortunately I had an extended warranty from the dealer when I bought it, since it was used. They said if the problem was due to the PTO drive train then it would be covered.

Problem was, when I took it in they said they could not guarantee it was a drive train problem, so I would have to agree to pay $300 to take it apart, in case it was not covered under warranty. That was kind of a crappy feeling since I felt my hands were tied because I needed it fixed, and I needed it done by the dealer due to the warranty. I agreed, fingers crossed.

Turned out it was the PTO rod that goes into the tranny, just after the cable. Said it had rusted and broke, and was just sitting there in two pieces. They said somehow water, or condensation got in between the gasket seals and caused it to rust, and then break. Service sales rep, initially said it wasn't covered, but would do his best to work it out with the warranty. At the time, he said I was looking at a $600 bill by the time it was all finished if not covered.

Somehow, the warranty covered it...whew! All I had to pay was the shipping/freight for the parts (around $40). My extended warranty expires at the end of November, 2011. So that’s my tractor problem. Only issue I have had with the Kubota so far, and from some research the only main issue's with Kubota's somehow seem to have to deal with the PTO in some manner, other than that, it’s been a great tractor and invaluable. I got a good deal on it and still love it.


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## jim1157

I have a 2006 Kioti DK45S with the Kioti front end loader. I'm sure it is a POS, in fairness, 99% of the tractor is a jewel, the Shuttle Shift is a POS, but the problem is compounded by my local dealer.

At 125 hrs, shift to Forward and any load (slight grade, lower box blade, etc) it would pop out of gear. Dealer/Kioti Warranty replaced Shuttle Shift Assy.

Now, fast forward to 2011 and 250.5 hours on the tractor.
Shuttle Shift is stuck in Reverse, dealer has split the tractor, rebuilt/replaced the shuttle shift assembly ($2650US), has told me that cables in the lift control are worn ($200US), clutch is 75% worn ($650 while split).

On the first shuttle shift replacement, loader was reinstalled and 4 of the mount bolts were left loose, 3 hyd lines loose and leaking, given a lot of hassle about them picking up the tractor and fixing their poor work. 

While moving limb debris (Long Grapple/Monster!) I ran over a limb, it flipped up and broke the hydraulic filter mount, filter and return tube, wrong part ordered twice.

Pushing a 5ft box blade in reverse, hit an unseen pine tree stump (under the dirt), bent the left 3 point lift arm, ordered, wrong arm twice, replaced.

Kioti refuses to warranty any part of the current shuttle shift repair, "Hard Service/Abuse". My questions to that are:

1) It is a tractor, what is "Hard Service"? My 1948 Ferguson 35 doesn't wimper. My 1987 Yanmar 35 doesn't whimper (and this one does see a lot of abuse, it goes in the woods, the Kioti is, physically, to big to fit in the pines)

2) Dealer says, "tractor has not been serviced" because the air filter was dirty/dusty and the engine oil needed to be changed. I smiled, (I am an aircraft mech by trade), Owners Manuel says the service interval is every 50hrs, the tractor has 250.5hrs on it, I've bought every filter from him, keep in mind we are talking about a tractor with 250.5 hours on it in 6 years. Hard Service?

3) Tractor is stored under an awning, not rained on but "in the weather" Abuse? Hard Service? (Ferguson and Yanmar sit in the rain)

4) How many other DK45S owners have experienced issues/problems with the Forward/Reverse Shuttle Shift?

Dealer refers to me as a "Bad Customer"


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## cj06

jim1157 said:


> I have a 2006 Kioti DK45S with the Kioti front end loader. I'm sure it is a POS, in fairness, 99% of the tractor is a jewel, the Shuttle Shift is a POS, but the problem is compounded by my local dealer.
> 
> At 125 hrs, shift to Forward and any load (slight grade, lower box blade, etc) it would pop out of gear. Dealer/Kioti Warranty replaced Shuttle Shift Assy.
> 
> Now, fast forward to 2011 and 250.5 hours on the tractor.
> Shuttle Shift is stuck in Reverse, dealer has split the tractor, rebuilt/replaced the shuttle shift assembly ($2650US), has told me that cables in the lift control are worn ($200US), clutch is 75% worn ($650 while split).
> 
> On the first shuttle shift replacement, loader was reinstalled and 4 of the mount bolts were left loose, 3 hyd lines loose and leaking, given a lot of hassle about them picking up the tractor and fixing their poor work.
> 
> While moving limb debris (Long Grapple/Monster!) I ran over a limb, it flipped up and broke the hydraulic filter mount, filter and return tube, wrong part ordered twice.
> 
> Pushing a 5ft box blade in reverse, hit an unseen pine tree stump (under the dirt), bent the left 3 point lift arm, ordered, wrong arm twice, replaced.
> 
> Kioti refuses to warranty any part of the current shuttle shift repair, "Hard Service/Abuse". My questions to that are:
> 
> 1) It is a tractor, what is "Hard Service"? My 1948 Ferguson 35 doesn't wimper. My 1987 Yanmar 35 doesn't whimper (and this one does see a lot of abuse, it goes in the woods, the Kioti is, physically, to big to fit in the pines)
> 
> 2) Dealer says, "tractor has not been serviced" because the air filter was dirty/dusty and the engine oil needed to be changed. I smiled, (I am an aircraft mech by trade), Owners Manuel says the service interval is every 50hrs, the tractor has 250.5hrs on it, I've bought every filter from him, keep in mind we are talking about a tractor with 250.5 hours on it in 6 years. Hard Service?
> 
> 3) Tractor is stored under an awning, not rained on but "in the weather" Abuse? Hard Service? (Ferguson and Yanmar sit in the rain)
> 
> 4) How many other DK45S owners have experienced issues/problems with the Forward/Reverse Shuttle Shift?
> 
> Dealer refers to me as a "Bad Customer"



go above the dealer , factory rep or what ever he is called , and go to another dealer and see what they say ! hope you kept all your paper work and receipts showing what all you bought from them for service ! document every call with names of who you spoke to and might record conversations ! start Emailing there customer service with the complaints and be specific with the problems , and then start sending Emails to all other sources for the Kioti brand and tell them about the lack of service , warranty support ! BECOME A REAL PAIN IN THE BUTT to them ! ( *squeaky wheel gets the grease *) , also get a lawyer involved as to have him start sending letters out ! DONT BE AFRAID TO PISS THEM OFF AS IT IS CLEAR THEY DONT CARE ABOUT YOU AND HAVE BAD CUSTOMER SERVICE ANY WAY ! you are fighting for your self so stand tall and take that dealership down !:usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa::usa:


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## dangeroustoys56

Jhngardener367: " I had a guy bring in a 3-month-old Huskee lawn tractor-----IN 2 PIECES! He bought it at one of the local box stores,fully assembled."


Thats one reason id never buy one at one of those places - if i ever did for some reason, id have that thing in pieces before even mowing with it - going over it with a fine tooth comb. Those things sit outside in rain and shine - not to mention everyone poking, prodding and sitting on em constantly.


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## ZOZ

*2011 X540 25 hours for far*

Nothing so far.

Now if you want history on my previous tractor pull up a chair...

My previous tractor was a 2000 Scotts 2548.
Broke deck pinions (about 1 every other season) from bumping trees and other items with the deck - normal wear and tear.

Bent blades from hitting rocks and stumps under deeper grass - normal wear and tear.

Bent spindles from hitting rocks and stumps under deeper grass - normal wear and tear.

Blew the hydrostatic transmission in about the 6th season hauing stone in an overloaded trailer to my backyard.


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## farmertim

St.George said:


> G'Day Farmertim.
> BEAUT gear you got. But a skid plate bolted to the bottom frame is surely a must with the tough timber you got there.


St.George, you're right unfortunately I am wise after the fact, you know 20-20 hindsight.

It won't happen again. I have a piece of 3/8th plate in the way now!!!


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## jhngardner367

I just found out that the dual-ratio transaxle forFrankenwheels isn't going into high range. I suspect the selector fork has come off,or loosened on the shaft,so tomorrow,I've got to pull it down and check it out.BUMMER!!


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## St.George

Seeing my contractor Antonio Carraro Ergit TRX 8400 snap the cast iron transmission casing like many others had done.
I decided to learn to make the unbreakable or easy to repair with local materials.
Look at this fantastic group to join: articulated or skid steer. There is so much to be excited about you will never leave your shop again...
LifeTrac - Open Source Ecology
I will always have dual steer to be above the back implement.


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## dangeroustoys56

Jhngardener367: I hear those transmissions are a nightmare - ive seen a parts diagram of one, basically nothing but gears all over in it.

Im glad i have a working spare trans for my 86 GTII from my parts GT6000....


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## jhngardner367

Nah,I've had them apart,before,and it's not too difficult....there's ONLY 98 pieces!LOL. Seriously,it can give some problems,if you aren't familiar with them,but the trick is to drain it well,then put it on its left side,and once the case bolts are out, GENTLY lift the right half clear,so you don't drop the bearings.After that it's pretty easy.


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## JEM1947

*Craftsman riding mowers, 2*

I have two Craftsman riding mowers. One is about 5 years old (917.27664) and the other more than 15 years old (917.256451). Both were bought used, we've had the older one 5 years and the newer one lass yhan a year.
The older one trough a rod a few months ago and I just today reoplaced the engine with a good used one.
The newer one had a flooding issue that this forum helped solve.
The only other things beside normal maintenance would be their muffler...both seem unusually loud.
Neither are heavy duty types but both have served us well with minimal problems.

Jim


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## mkfarnam

JEM1947 said:


> I have two Craftsman riding mowers. One is about 5 years old (917.27664) and the other more than 15 years old (917.256451). Both were bought used, we've had the older one 5 years and the newer one lass yhan a year.
> 
> 
> 
> The older one trough a rod a few months ago
> 
> 
> 
> and I just today reoplaced the engine with a good used one.
> The newer one had a flooding issue that this forum helped solve.
> The only other things beside normal maintenance would be their muffler...both seem unusually loud.
> Neither are heavy duty types but both have served us well with minimal problems.
> 
> Jim
Click to expand...

Did the rod go through the side of the block or did it just snap inside?
A rod thrown through the block is usual caused by "over speeding" of the engine. or (governor problems)
If it snaps in side it's usually caused by dirty oil.


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## Dugout

I'm still getting responses, thanks everyone!


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## parapower

just want to let u guys know i have a woods zero-turn and ordered a new spindle from (psep.biz) gravely parts. the spindle failed after just mowing 10 acres. emailed and called to get a warranty replacement. they informed me I would have to purchase another spindle ship the defective on back at my expense. if they find it is defective then would send me another. however; we all know that will not happen. SO BUYER BEWARE IF U DECIDE TO PURCHASE ANTHING FROM THESE CROOKS.


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## cj06

not really something broken , the rear tire on my old 401 JD been given me problems with getting it aired back up , went flat and broke the bead lose from the rim , had to get one of our air compressors running ( sullair 185 ) to get enough volume to inflate the tire , but still shooting air out of the rim ? any way could not find anything to pack the bead with , NAPA was out of it's tire bead stuff and did not know when they were getting any ! so i searched the internet for any near by and called a few places , did not feel like waiting a week so one guy suggested using LARD same stuff that you fry chicken in , sure enough wife had bought a tub of it awhile back , took it out and packed the bead and within 10 minutes had the tire back on and aired up ! i haven't been that happy in years ! so if any one has trouble seating any tires just grab the LARD !


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## 1adamb

I've had problems like this before too. I used a racheting strap around the tire to sorta force the bead tight against the rim (presses on the center and forces the sides of tire out against rim). Inflate a little to set bead, remove strap and all is good. Hope that makes sense...




cj06 said:


> not really something broken , the rear tire on my old 401 JD been given me problems with getting it aired back up , went flat and broke the bead lose from the rim , had to get one of our air compressors running ( sullair 185 ) to get enough volume to inflate the tire , but still shooting air out of the rim ? any way could not find anything to pack the bead with , NAPA was out of it's tire bead stuff and did not know when they were getting any ! so i searched the internet for any near by and called a few places , did not feel like waiting a week so one guy suggested using LARD same stuff that you fry chicken in , sure enough wife had bought a tub of it awhile back , took it out and packed the bead and within 10 minutes had the tire back on and aired up ! i haven't been that happy in years ! so if any one has trouble seating any tires just grab the LARD !


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## farmertim

1 adamb, my dad used to0 do that in the 60's when he was fixing his own tires. only he used a rope and a steel bar to make a Spanish windlass,, by winding the rope it chokes the tire same as the ratchet strap.
Cheers


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## ProfessorJWN

*Ether? (DISCLAIMER: DO NOT TRY THIS!!!! VERY VERY VERY DANGEROUS!!!!!)*

Ever try using starting fluid?

DISCLAIMER: DO NOT TRY THIS!!!! VERY VERY VERY DANGEROUS!!!!!

DISCLAIMER: DO NOT TRY THIS!!!! VERY VERY VERY DANGEROUS!!!!!

When I was growing up, my Dad tractor pulled (modified tractors), in any case, the "standard" 30.5.32 Firestone tires were generally pretty straight forward to mount, but the later (exotic" materials including the "Puller" series from Firestone and Goodrich had more natural rubber and other compounds making the tires much more rigid.

One set we got had been in a stored for a couple of years (in a stack, and had "taken a set" Kind of concaved (cupped in). We tried and tried several different ways (including tire goop" and come alongs, rope, etc. to get the beads to stay out and nothing worked.

finally, as a last resoort the way we finally got them "aired up" was to use Starting fluid. After experimenting with one case (I think) 3/4 of a can proved to be the right amount....problem still was that the bead sucked back in every time when the air inside the tire cooled.

Long story short, two air hoses with clip on chucks attached to a twin cylinder air compressor with a 100 gal tank at 175psi to both valve stems on the inside board and outboard of the tire were attached but not hooked to the air. When the fluid was ignited, two people attached thre quick couplers and the air was flowing, This was finally able to keep up with the "sucking back in" after the fluid was ignited.

DISCLAIMER: DO NOT TRY THIS!!!! VERY VERY VERY DANGEROUS!!!!!

DISCLAIMER: DO NOT TRY THIS!!!! VERY VERY VERY DANGEROUS!!!!!

DISCLAIMER: DO NOT TRY THIS!!!! VERY VERY VERY DANGEROUS!!!!!

Jim


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## cj06

I have used starting fluid , propane , acetylene all with good results with one exception , had a 580 case backhoe that the rear tire was flat and off the bead , got it gack in the yard and we had some big wheel from the company we were subbing from so my boss at that time ( 1994 ) thought it would be a good idea to show him how to blow up a tire ?? so the 2 of them stood by as i sprayed the starting fluid in the tire well with all 3 of us talking i sprayed about 1/2 a can of starting fluid in the tire and when i lit it up a BIG ole BOOM , blew the bead right off the wheel and broke the bead , shattered 4 windows in the office the guys at the NAPA store across the street thought a gas main blew and came running out ! the 3 of us stood there looking at each other like , who's the dumb ass that thought of that ?????


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## mkfarnam

cj06 said:


> I have used starting fluid , propane , acetylene all with good results with one exception , had a 580 case backhoe that the rear tire was flat and off the bead , got it gack in the yard and we had some big wheel from the company we were subbing from so my boss at that time ( 1994 ) thought it would be a good idea to show him how to blow up a tire ?? so the 2 of them stood by as i sprayed the starting fluid in the tire well with all 3 of us talking i sprayed about 1/2 a can of starting fluid in the tire and when i lit it up a BIG ole BOOM , blew the bead right off the wheel and broke the bead , shattered 4 windows in the office the guys at the NAPA store across the street thought a gas main blew and came running out ! the 3 of us stood there looking at each other like , who's the dumb ass that thought of that ?????


You had to have a long fuse in the valve stem in order to avoid being blown to the nearest funeral home.:dazed:


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## cj06

mkfarnam said:


> You had to have a long fuse in the valve stem in order to avoid being blown to the nearest funeral home.:dazed:


all 3 of us were standing right next to the tire , all the gravel was blown away for about 20' ! GOD WAS LOOKING OUT FOR US THAT DAY !


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## NJFF41

I have a 1979 Kubota L245DT and runs great. Have not done much just maintenance, filters oil ect...
I did break a rear hyd cylinder 2 years ago and have spent the last year building a bigger backhoe for it.
longer boom, longer dipper stick and longer stabilizers. I currently have had all the sheet metal removed, baked, blasted, and powder coated as well as the new parts, front loader assy, buckets and all mounting hardware and brackets.
while machine was bare I had the body shop next door throw a fresh coat of paint on the machine.
I will post pictures if anyone wants to see it, maybe start a new post as this could be a long post, lots of picture of fabrication and coatings.


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## tsakirakos

the ford 7810 had a problem with the hydraulics pump.








the new holland 8970A had and still has a problem with the electrics...


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## maxberlin

I have a 2005 Kubota L3400. Just bought it recently with 350 hours on it. My only problem so far has been the transmission oil sight glass on the left side of the xmsn tunnel near where my left foot rests while operating the tractor. Kubota calls it an "oil gauge". It had developed a slow leak, so I tightened it a bit. Turns out "a bit" is a bit too much. Cracked the plastic threaded shank and had to replace it at a cost of $18 at a Kubota dealer.


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## possom813

Tachometer, temp gauge, oil pressure gauge all broke over the years, alternator(12v conversion) is only charging about 3 amps right now.


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## joeb

*The old man*

bought a used Yanmar 180 a couple of years ago and have had no problems with the exception of things the previous owner has jury rigged but nothing major. have been really pleased with dependability and economy. great little tractor.


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## bmax59

In dec. 2010 I bought a new 603 cab model TYM after I looked at ALL the other manufactures because of the price and features and warranty. But at 12 hours a new wiring harness due to a no start problem ( 2 weeks to fix ). At 40 hours the loader valve was replaced , had no feathering ability and very little loader power ( 3 weeks and still has problems ). 58 hours engine fan rubbing on the right side of radiator shroud (told it was ok by dealer ). 80 hours engine dies due to loss of electrical power in cab (2 days to fix). 89 hours I still have a " floppy" loader bucket and the bad water pump has removed most of the fan shroud on the right side now! but dealer has always offered a loaner tracror when mine was being worked on, and offered to pick it up, but getting parts and service has been lacking in my opinion!


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## tricketts

Dugout said:


> I was sitting around the other day with a couple of buddies, we got to talking tractors and there was a lot of the same issues mentioned.
> 
> So I thought I would do an informal study here and find out what all has broken on your tractors.
> 
> Also in addition to listing what has broke, if you had a warranty please include if they covered it.



I have a two year old Husqvarna lawn tractor. It had been really great, until recently started to backfire, when shut off. Also, twice now I have had to take the carb apart, as it allows fuel to flow although the engine is shut off.

Also have a '78 IH844. It has been a great tractor, given the year! Have had to change some fuel lines and such, but expected for an older tractor. I'd buy another one of these in a heartbeat!!!


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## Paul40

We have the 8 acres that used to be the farm yard of a large farm. Ex-owner's son ran a sort of a wrecking yard on the side, and unwanted parts were dropped anywhereand everywhere. I find a lot of them with the Chraftsman DYS5500, and I went through a lot of aluminum mandrels. I had not taken the Sears extended warranty, so at $55 apiece and 7 during the first year, it was starting to affect my cash flow. Finally had a couple steel ones made for $75 apiece. Good investment! No mandrel problems since. I had some fears about bending the deck the next time I struck something, but the blades appear to take the brunt. I do rebend and replace a lot of them but have had to replace them a few times. The incidents are getting less frequent, but will likely continue for some time as I get into more areas that had never been mowed before. Maybe a herd of sheep? LOL
Other than that, and a few flats due to the above, I haven't had any problems. Tractor has just over 700 hours in almost 3 years.


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## 6thGeneration

Hmmm..... I won't hit it all, but here's a try. Newest, the TW30 bought in December. Tie rod broke while spreading fertilizer this spring. Big front tire jerked sideways and nailed tie rod end against steering cylinder and broke that. Only problem with that so far. 9700..... split it once, waaaayyyyy back at 7872 hours for clutch and dual power. Three overhauls on engine, last one checked innards of dual power, 4 spd, and rear end. Replaced most brake components. Guess that counts as splitting it twice. But, that was at 24300 hours. Yes, there is five digits there. 8600 has been pretty problem free other than linking a new starter every other year. 8000 has never been opened up, other than going in from the bottom to replace a pto driveline bearing.


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## carlboyer

JD L118 Lawn tractor - TuffTorq T40 transmission burned up after 300 hours use. I expect the steering pinion will need to be adjusted soon as it is wearing pretty heavily.


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## mkfarnam

carlboyer said:


> JD L118 Lawn tractor - TuffTorq T40 transmission burned up after 300 hours use. I expect the steering pinion will need to be adjusted soon as it is wearing pretty heavily.


What's the main type of project that it's been used for?


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## OzCop

2005 Ferris 3000ZT

Never a problem in 151 hours of use until recently. Know what it needs, not sure how to fix. Not getting fuel from tank, and read something about replacing the pick-up hose inside the tank...How to get inside the tank to replace is the issue...full plastic, no exterior exit that I can see...


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## junglejim

A friend had the same problem . I went in the gas cap hole with a wire with a hook on and hooked the hose. Where the hose goes in the tank the rubber just prys out hope this helps


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## ErnieS

310 hours on the FarmTrac 390HST and it stopped going backwards. I was told to check the forward/reverse rocker cam for twisting, but found no signs of cracked welds or other damage. Reset the height of the cam and all is well.


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## Thomas

"Reset the height of the cam and all is well. "

Sooooo would this be common adjust do to use?


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## ErnieS

Thomas said:


> "Reset the height of the cam and all is well. "
> 
> Sooooo would this be common adjust do to use?


No not common. My nephew parked the tractor the day before and when I went to back it out to tote a load of scrap lumber up in back, the reverse pedal went to the mat with little effort and zero movement of the tractor.. Whit no pressure on either pedal, the forward pedal was a good 6 inches higher than the reverse one and if I pulled up on the forward pedal, the tractor would back up.
I raised the cam about 1/4" and the pedals are now equal height and all is well.

The adjustment was set where the upper nut is in this photo. I had to drop that nut 1/4"


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## 71IH434

Nothing has really went wrong on my international 434. Good old strong tractor, would suggest people to buy one


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## TruckNSeaBee

My MTD Ranch King :usa: is 18 years old 42 inch cut 14 horse B&S single cylynder and i paid 800 dollars for it new and since ive had it the last three years i had a bad starter solenoid and starter and pulley on the mower deck and put a bundgy cord on the fuel tank (i stripped Screws)and made a new ball joint on the steering assembly with piece of black pipe and chunk of garden hose.
oh and new belts oil changes ect ect ! This machine is beat to a pulp every year cutting lots of grass and running the AGRO leave sweeper ! 
My neighbor has gone through and owned 3 tractors in the time ive owned my MTD
18 years??????they had a dixon zero turn thing a older sears and now a box store john deere ~ I cannot complain at all about my MTD RANCH KING i got every dollar i paid for it out of it and i still run it ! But you do have to go over it and check for loose bolts and keep up good cleaning and maintnence of course!


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## bonkers902

*toro 312-8*

haven't broken anything yet but not for the lack of trying the only thing i replaced was a mower deck drive belt as it was weather checked. i use my tractor very hard as I pulled my 78 ford pickup out of the back yard with it in creeper gear so that i could change the motor in the truck that little 12 hp kohler just humming along


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## elderberry99

My L3200 is still too new for me to really break anything. Had a cylinder go bad on my backhoe attachment last summer when I first took delivery of the tractor but the dealer came and took it back and replaced the cylinder and found it was a manuf. defect in the tube. No problems since!


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## Tulip

*Hydraulice Filter Body / Hydrostatic Pedal*

New Holland TC33D

This isn't just normal wear and tear, so I don't know if this is what you have in mind. I was pushing several logs with the FEL. One slipped past the loader and up into the chassis to push on the hydraulic oil filter, which quickly broke right off the tractor. Nothing to do but replace the body ($135). 

In the 'wear and tear' category, the bracket on the hydrostatic pedal came unwelded from its shaft. It became loose first, so I didn't notice what was failing for awhile. It just seemed that no matter how hard I pressed the pedal, the tractor might or might not start moving. I thought I had hydraulic fluid problems. One little spot weld fixed it though.

By the way, have you compiled a list or made any other sense of all the problems reported?


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## eccchief

*Tractors that broke*

I've got a Balmar, ford diesel, 4wd skidsteer, with a loader and a Ford hoe, Still starts right up, but the hydraulic pump (off the front end of the crank) has gone out. Have to find one to adapt, parts no longer available. Slow, but strong. It's a monster, call it my Balrog.

Then my little Iseki 1300, diesel, 4wd. I was tilling in a fire break last summer and the housing of the hydraulic pump broke. Some kind of over-pressure situation. Got a used pump for $300, disassembled and cleaned the relief valve assembly, and everything is working again. Normal maintenance, like hard starting when cold...replaced the glow plugs and the battery and presto!...back in business. Good little tractor with a front loader that only goes 4 feet high. Going to have to sell it though, California is going to force anything not CARB (Calif Air resources Board) compliant out of service in a few short years.


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## Wolfcub

Fuel pump runs fine when running but must have an air leak that lets gas drain back into tank ... always have to pour some gas in the carb to get 'er goin.
Carb was plumb full of water when I tried to start 'er this spring ... now it's just back to pouring gas in the carb ... until I fix the fuel pump and put new fuel lines on 'er.

Dave


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## ftorleans1

Wow, That Special Chamberlain is just plain HUGE!!! What is something like this used for? I've seen plenty of big tractors as in height, never something this long...


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## john walsh

I have five riders in my fleet. All were purchased well-used. Most often replaced parts (2x) have been the flat belt idlers, seizing from lack of lube on the sealed ball bearings. My mowing conditions are extreme, with lots of rocks to hit. I have rounded off the "star" on the blade end of my Craftsman's mandrels twice when impacting rocks. I have blacksmithed the drag link socket/ball on my Simplicity Regent 12 Hydro, when it popped out while mowing. So far the two cubs have only needed appearance and maintenance work. I added front deck wheels to my 46" Craftsman to keep deck from getting hung up on edge of concrete, while transitioning from grass to driveway. Otherwise, belts have had to be replaced on a couple of the mowers and I replaced the plastic bushings on the front end of the Craftsman due to wear.
Almost forgot, on the Craftsman, I had the deck sway bracket ("L" bracket) break twice, finally put a weld fillet on the last time and it hasnt broken again. Also had the frame crack on the left rail in front of the seat in a holed section of the frame. I added a strap to bridge the crack when welding and so far, so good. As I said, I am pretty hard on the mowers since my land is pretty bumpy and rocky Anyone with a more normal yard might never see these problems.


----------



## pogobill

Well, yesterday I snagged a tree root that was hidden in the grass.... just caught the front of the deck and stopped me dead in my tracks. Then things just got worse! The blade was thinking it was a rototiller, and the wheels spun ruts into the lawn. Didn't seem like anything I did helped except turning the key off. Seems that the deck drove back and popped the gearshift lever off of the transmission. Tried to re-connect it but no luck, just kept popping off, so I gave it up.
Back at the shed, I hoisted the tractor up with my farm Case and had a better look underneath. Seems the rear axle is fastened to the tractor just fine, but at the front of the transmission, the support bracket bolts had fallen out, causing the transmission/axle to rotate downwards and in turn kept popping the shift rod off of the gear lever on the top of the transmission. Jacked everthing back into place and replaced the bolts and the shift rod and she works like a charm! I guess I have found something else to check before I fire up the lawn tractor.


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## Pipertec

That "Special" Chamberlain was one of the first articulated tractors, I do believe. I think that is where John Deere got the inspiration for the big articulated tractors we have been seeing in the US for some years now. That is one big "Croc" of a tractor!! What kind of work was it built for????


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## Pipertec

pogobill said:


> Well, yesterday I snagged a tree root that was hidden in the grass.... just caught the front of the deck and stopped me dead in my tracks. Then things just got worse! The blade was thinking it was a rototiller, and the wheels spun ruts into the lawn. Didn't seem like anything I did helped except turning the key off. Seems that the deck drove back and popped the gearshift lever off of the transmission. Tried to re-connect it but no luck, just kept popping off, so I gave it up.
> Back at the shed, I hoisted the tractor up with my farm Case and had a better look underneath. Seems the rear axle is fastened to the tractor just fine, but at the front of the transmission, the support bracket bolts had fallen out, causing the transmission/axle to rotate downwards and in turn kept popping the shift rod off of the gear lever on the top of the transmission. Jacked everthing back into place and replaced the bolts and the shift rod and she works like a charm! I guess I have found something else to check before I fire up the lawn tractor.


Bill, it is those types of yard " landmines" that really get your attention. I was using my 6 foot rototiller helping a neighbor last week by breaking up some new ground for him that was previously his yard. I was cutting it about 8 inches deep and running along in 2nd gear cause it was cutting it so good. All of a sudden, I heard what sounded like I had dug up a nest of armadillos up. Seems the neighbor forgot that he had planted a 1/2 inch galvanized water line to a mobile home that used to sit behind his house........(((BUMMER)))........about an hour later, and after emptying a set of Oxy/Acetylene tanks up, I had it all cut out of my tines. Good thing that pipe had been buried long enough to be degraded to a point that it just wrapped around the tines and didn't start breaking stuff before my clutch kicked in......Seems like something like that always happens when I try to help someone out....LOL!!!!!!


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## Hilltop60

1975 IH 2500b. Starter quit. Took starter off and took it apart. To my surprise found that is was full of water. Imagine that with a tractor that sits outside. I can only presume that the starter was suppose to be sealed. The brush holders were rusted in one position. Not good! After freeing up and cleaning all the parts, I decided to allow for future water to escape by cutting a small opening at the brush end of starter before lubricating and putting the starter back together. This opening was cut in the end of the stator case at lowest position when positioned on tractor correctly. Starter works great now. 
PS..tried to upload an image of tractor, said server was not communicating.


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## wham

Front Pedestal that holds the front axle on my 100 IH Farmall. Doing some bush hogging for my In-laws when they bought a piece of land and house and some goober had dug some holes for perk test with a backhoe and didn't bother to fill them. Yep, you read it right dug holes for perk test with a back hoe. Anyway the sage and grass had grown up around them and they weren't visible at all and I ran into it so hard it broke the pedestal and shoved the steering wheel right up into my chest. Luckily only a few bruises. But I will never forget seeing that steering wheel coming straight at me so quick I didn't have time to move . 
Tim H.


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## Cluelessrich

I had a blown head gasket. When I replaced it it looked VERY worn. Also valve adjustment screw broke - must have been tightened way too much by previous owner. Had to get it from a junked tractor - very expensive small part due to minimum shop fee!


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## weathersteve1

*New HOlland 1630*

So far the speed control sensor and some cheap plastic parts like the plastic knob for the seat spring adjustment!


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## LostValley

Didn't see it happen when angle ram on 3 pt let loose. Lever would stick in 'on' position. Took a load of oak rounds up to splitter and came back to JD drenched in hydraulic fluid. A hole had appeared in at top edge of ram in welding. Grabbed same off Massey and was pleased they are same size. Not sure if age, lever or something smacking it was why this happened.


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## bmax59

I bought a International 464 with loader a couple years ago for light usage around my property. It only showed 1800 hrs. but I didn;t think this was accurate but the tractor was in very good condition and at the time ran great to with no over heating or any other problems . After operating it till last fall it started to get a little light knock in the engine and over a couple months got worse this winter a disasemble of the motor found bad pistons caused by the lack of a thermostat . Somthing I forgot to check! When you remove a thermostat in any engine , the water cannot cool the internals of a motor properly but the radiator does its job and the gauge shows normal most of the time. you have to have some restriction to slow the coolant down so it can absorb that heat . So I beleive it had been run for some time before I bought it and now fresh motor and wow it has more power !


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## Brother-Al

My Bolens ST120's brake routinely fails to lock into place,so I have to give it some loving help so that it can slide into the groove... Ignition switch recently failed...6 prong unit, but runs a different polarity than the replacement ones... go figure.


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## donmopar

on my L245DT I have replaced the hydraulic pump, lines and front end loader valves a few years back because they where leaking and then the pump died. Recently the steering box died. It still has some weeping of the seals around the axles


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## Paul40

The power wire going to the rear lift for the rotor tiller on my Craftsman DYS 5500(which I installed) somehow came loose and got caught in a plastic idler pulley for the hydrostatic drive and smoked it. Phoned an 800 number listed under Sears in Regina. The following exchange took place:
Sears guy: May I help you?
Me: Is this Sears in Regina? I'd like to know if you have a part in stock.
Sears guy: What's the model number?
I gave it to him
Sears: What part do you need?
I gave him the part number from the manual
Sears: That part would have to be ordered. It'll take at least 5 business days after June 5 (????)
Me: Oh damn. Oh well, I'm going to need it, so let's order it.
He wants my name and phone number, and I provided it.
Sears: What's your address
Me: I'll pick it up at the store
Sears: I'll still need your address for our records
Me: I don't have an address, just a land locatation. I'm out in the country.
Sears: Do you have a postal address, like a box number?
I gave him my postal address, including box number
Sears: Do you wish to charge this to your Sears account, or how do you wish to pay?
Me: I'll pay cash or debit when I pick it up at the store.
Sears: We can't do that. I'll have to have a credit card number
Me: I don't have my wallet with me because I'm in my workshop. Why can't I just pay for it when I pick it up at the store?
Sears: We can't do it without a credit card. Would you like to apply for a Sears card?
Me: I don't want a Sears card. Why can't I just pay when I pick it up.
Sears: The only way we can take cash ist if you pick it up at the store.
Me: (after silently counting to ten) Isn't that what I've been telling you, that that's what I want to do?
Sears: Which store would you like to pick it up at?
Me: Regina
Sears: Just a moment. Oh, they have two of them in stock.
Me: Ok. Thanks
Sears: Would you like to cancel the order?
Click. 
Pass me a Prozac

Paul


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## Ed G.

Dynamark 18/42. Fresh carb and fuel pump overhaul. Symptoms were sudden loss of traction and steering, followed by major gas and oil leaks. Engine was running fine at the time and after looking things over I decided I should maybe shut it off.

Cause of all the problems was that I tipped it over on it's side today while backing a trailer uphill. 

Just a total dumb move on my part and backing off the gas when I saw the trailer go sideways might've averted the flop over. I did an easy dismount, stepped away and let it go on over. Only big problem was the wheels faced uphill so I had to drag the front around till the wheels were lower than the body and then it was a simple matter to set it upright. Got the battery out first thing before I made a real disaster out of it. If this rig ever had a kill or tip switch, it was cut out long ago. I paid $20 for it some years ago and it does a fine job tooling around our mountain.

Other than some oily dirt to clean up and a very red face when I told my wife, I got it running again after refilling the lost fluids and cleaning the plugs. Smoked for awhile though!

I'd say don't try this at home, except that's where I was! It's what I get for using a garden tractor on old patented mining claim property in the hills. I've tipped the trailer alone before, but this is the first time I flipped the whole shebang.

-Ed


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## dangeroustoys56

Paul40: Even with old stuff - i have to deal with it . I was at the 'mall' Sears to pick up a pair of mandrels , blades and pulleys for a ancient 80's craftsman - i handed him the mandrels and pulleys and asked if they had a set of blades for those spindles ( brot my old blade for length) - guy looked at me like i had 5 heads and asked " Y have a model number?" - im like " No- tractor is older then you and theres no data tag on it - just find me a pair of blades this long that fit those mandrels" - acted like i asked to pull all his teeth out with rusty pliers.

Those people need to get away from those computers and actually look or work on tractors/know thier parts.


Ed G: Done that a few times - cept mine were impromptu wheelies/flip overs - other then losing some gas and letting it sit a minute for the oil to settle, mine usually start right back up.


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## JG24AJ

The only thing I have so far is not with my 09 2816 4x4 Mahindra, it's the pin that the 3 point hitch goes to on the brush hogg, wallered out wobbles a lot, can't seem to sheim it up or anything so going to use man power to remove it, then off to tractor supply 4 another. And I can't seem to adjust the darn hitch just right to keep deck from dragging the ground, digs ditches more than cuts grass, ha ha.

P.S.
Don't try to clean a dried up pond that has had no rain all summer long the center stays very soft, no matter how many hog & deer tracks there are. Check it out. Ron White says "You can't fix stupid."


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## farmertim

JG24AJ said:


> The only thing I have so far is not with my 09 2816 4x4 Mahindra, it's the pin that the 3 point hitch goes to on the brush hogg, wallered out wobbles a lot, can't seem to sheim it up or anything so going to use man power to remove it, then off to tractor supply 4 another. And I can't seem to adjust the darn hitch just right to keep deck from dragging the ground, digs ditches more than cuts grass, ha ha.
> 
> P.S.
> Don't try to clean a dried up pond that has had no rain all summer long the center stays very soft, no matter how many hog & deer tracks there are. Check it out. Ron White says "You can't fix stupid."


In Aussie vernacular, that would generate an OH SHi7!!!!!


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## pogobill

EWWWW... Good luck with that pond cleaning!!
Be careful, one Oh Shi7 and you lose all your "at a boys" and you have to start all over again!


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## Mowerman

Evanedward said:


> Bought a new Craftsman years ago. The store ad stated READY TO MOW. Well this thing was anything but ready to mow. Had several things fall apart including the steering wheel almost came off,never tightened up. Finally went through the thing from one end to the other. I don't think Craftsman is a bad tractor just sold by a place that should not be in the business.


Are they made by MTD as I've heard that Name Craftsman before somewhere . Out here in Australia most MTD models fall apart . They seem to be made on the cheap side .


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## mkfarnam

Mowerman said:


> Are they made by MTD as I've heard that Name Craftsman before somewhere . Out here in Australia most MTD models fall apart . They seem to be made on the cheap side .


Craftsman is a Sears product.


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## Lawrence1210

Sears doesn't make anything they just sell stuff other people make under the Craftsman name.

Many newer Craftsman are made by MTD. My older Sears/Craftsman/K-mart mower (same tractor/mower just different color engine covers) was made by AYP.


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## grodon

Just broke the headlight lens. Also had to fix the floorboard where the deck hangs; 4" square pulled out. Wife rubs deck along every freaking tree etc. in the yard.


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## Chipawah

I have a 424D a 67 model its been a good dependable tractor. The other day I went to engage the PTO shift lever and it just flopped to the floor. I thought I was really screwed but managed to pull the whole unit out and fish the dog out of the bottom of the case. All that had happed was the sheer pin that holds the dog on had broken. So I put in a new pin, lined everything up and I'm back in business.


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## GFC Firefighter

-Bumpers,
-Brake linkages (especially when your tractor is used in the woods), 
-Oil pan (again, especially when your tractor is in the woods or used for clearing when you don't have the money to buy protection for it)
-Headlights (the ones that hang on the side of the tractor and not built into the front of the tractor)


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## CDragonworks

The clutches that drive the PTO on my 154 Lowboy... there is slop in the shaft we did not know was there and it has caused loads of failure on this part...so we are changing it to a different type system to turn the PTO on and off... other than that no problems from the old girl... this is an old age and abuse thing from before we adopted her! On the MF25 we found a sheered off end on the pto shaft where the connector gear is..it was sheered off in the gear... someone did something bad before I got her!!!! But we found parts and we are working on getting all the stuff we need to bring her back to full use!!!!


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## dangeroustoys56

MTD is a 'love it or hate it' machine - new stuff i cant vouch for - but hearing storys of them say theyre pretty cheeply made ( problems, repairs, ect).

I like and hate them at the same time - i own something like 8 of them, some run, some are parts mowers. I have so many because they were super cheep or free ( well used non running) and i fixed a few to mow. Sometimes they can run beautiful or run like crap with lots of problems.

I did buy one new one back in 92 - its still going, runs good and mows - last year i did a full service ( all new belts, cleaned/painted the deck) - its been a good tractor.

A couple parts machines are going to be 'special projects' - so they wont go to waste either.

I prefer older AYP products- theyre built a whole lot better, altho parts can be hard to find...


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## Celk144

My clutch broke on my Gibson sd tractor and im still trying to find the part.


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## Carolinablue

Injector pump shot on my 2360 Long


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## papasmithnc

*Broken on My Mahindra*

At about 300 Hours the Starter went out on my 4500 and had it rebuilt. I let a buyer who was financing my land finance that tracter and the starter went out on him about a hundred hours later and he bought a new starter. I got the tractor back with about 460 hours and the clutch is worn out or broken. It will either run the PTO or drive the tractor depending on the adjustment. In addition, it seems the starter is going out again. I mean seriously. Paint on the tractor did not last and is worn down to the primer on the hood. If I sell this thing, no more Mahindras.


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## DaveA

JD 2720 no problems 450 hours over 5 years.


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