# Ford NAA Tach Drive



## John C. Posey

Does anyone know , in what order and direction the Tach drive fits into the bushing? I have had 2 twist the drive tap off on start-up. The drive becomes instantly locked, inside the bushing. The Mechanic at the local dealer looked at the new one I took to him and saw several ways it could be assembled. Obviously, mine was assembled wrong twice. Different shops.
I have looked on the internet and they all show the parts, but none show them assembled.


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## Ed Williams

Check in at "Yesterday's Tractor" or "Fix That Ford" Web sites. A zillion of old Ford owners live on that site and can help. It's been 25 years since I changed mine and I cannot remember. I do know the drive gear has to be loose in the housing or it will bind and lock up.


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## John C. Posey

Thank You for your reply.
Everyone I have talked with, have told me about the same thing, It's been years since they had worked on the tach drive of an old ford. I sometimes get so aggravated with this tractor, I think it has been cursed. I know I have said some unkind things to and of it.
I have it in a Dealers Shop, now, but they were the one's that installed the one that broke. 
This may be one of those things, "if you want it done right, do it yourself".
Thanks again, I'll try Yesterday's Tractors and Fix-that-ford.


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## John C. Posey

HI everyone;
I am still plugging away on my cursed NAA. Had it fixed several times and as soon as it was running well, something else would break.
The local tractor Dealer hired a new mechanic. He happened to walk by when the old mechanic was reassembling my hydraulic pump. Right away, he said, it isn't going to work, like that He pointed out a spacer that needed to be in place, before assembly With his help, I no longer had the problem of snapping the RPM Cable.
Found the Amp Gauge wasn't working, because the Generator wasn't putting out anything. Local Generator/starter shop fix it fairly quick. HAHAHAAH Then, while installing the Generator, I dropped it on the concrete floor. Broke the pully and the shop found I had also bent the shaft.
He rebuilt it and works fine.
Then I took it out for a light job and the radiator started squirting water from new pin-hoes on the top tank. Took it off to repair, dropped it once. After repairs, I put it back on. Filled it with water. Before I could make it to the start switch, I couldn't see water in the radiator.  Figured it ran into the engine block. Refilled, saw water pouring from bottom of tractor. I had thought I closed the pit-cock, but it was open. Closed that refilled, started the tractor, no water squiring from top tank, still water pouring out at bottom, at many spots. Gave up on it. Ordered a New Radiator. When it arrived, I found the original shroud would not fit. Tried to modify as per their instructions. Made a Mess of it. Ordered a new shroud, but I had a fall and the COPD acted up, back to back, so I haven't done anymore with it. Probably try to work on it this week.
I never did like FORDS.


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## pogobill

Sorry to here about your tractor issues, and more importantly your personal woes. Take care of yourself John, the tractor will be there when you feel better. 
While resting up, go on line and buy yourself a pair of steel toed boots... look for free delivery. If you have any more heavy parts to change on your Ford, they may come in handy! LOL


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## John C. Posey

Thanks for the response. 
There is an old saying, I think from Philosophy: "Persistence always, Overcomes Resistance" .
The NAA has now become a challenge I intend to win with Persistence, if me or money don't run-out. In, typical 20/20 Hind-sight, I should not have bought it, and since I did, I should have done a complete Restoration. Then again, for the the price of a Restoration , I could have had a New Tractor. 
Just try to learn by my Mistakes.

The advice about the Steel Toed Boots is good. I have some, but don't wear them any longer.


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## John C. Posey

Found the issue with the Tach drive. A chance look by a new employee at the Dealer, solved the problem. He was walking by when the other Mechanic was putting the hydraulic pump drive together. the new Mech casually stated it wouldn't work like that, and pointed out another washer had to be installed. Problem cured.

Skipping ahead and leaving out some of my mistakes, and my helpers, the NAA ran, the tach worked, oil and temp gauges worked, but the amp gauge did move. Checked wiring and hook-up. Finally called a Generator shop. They wanted the Generator and the Voltage Regulator.
The regular was very old and was bad. The generator needs brushes and the commutator turned a little. Went to install generator and guess what, I dropped it. It landed on the concrete floor on the pulley. Pulley went in pieces in all directions. Another call to the shop and carried the Generator and regulator in. Seems when the Generator hit the floor, at an angle, it bent the shaft. So a new shaft and rotor and new pulley, I put blocking under the generator, just in case I dropped it again. With generator and regulator in place, I started the Engine, still no amp movement. Turned the engine off and flashed the regulator. Re started the engine, amp gauge worked.
Now happy, the gauges work, the 3 pt. works. 
I made a short run to check it was fixed. I left the hood off, for the time being. Few days later I used it for about 10-15 minutes and several small streams of water started shooting out the top cap. Back to the garage. I removed the radiator, tried to fix it, reinstalled it, it leaked more than ever. Removed the radiator, ordered s new radiator and shroud.

Got the new radiator and shroud, The mounting holes were vastly different it size. Called the Company I bought from, they said to drill the small holes in the radiator frame, to size, but to be careful not to go any farther than either 1/8" or 1/16" through the frame, or I would hit a core.
I bought a set of drill guides/stops, whatever they are called. I drilled a couple holes, then need to do something else. Mean-time the guy I had building a fence for me came in. He immediately told me I was using the wrong screws. He left and came back with some WOOD SCREWS. I told he NOT to use them, he would puncture the cores and ruin a $300.00 radiator. As soon as I turned away, he says , " Naw, I fixed a lot of radiator on Mack Trucks with these". Next thing I hear is the drill driving the screws in. I told him again he just ruined the radiator. He took it outside and run some water in it. The water came out as fast as it went in. Then he told me he has a friend that can fix it as good as new.
He took the radiator to his friend. About 3 weeks later, I call him and asked," Where's my Radiator?" HE tells me it is at the shop, but he doesn't have the money to pay for it.
I told him to tell me where the Shop was and I would go get it. When I got there, I discovered he had taken it to a Residential and Commercial Contractor. They know Nothing about vehicle radiators. They had mounted the shroud on in the wrong place (Too Low ) and had also but it on with WOOD SCREWS. I had to trash the shroud.
I put the radiator on the tractor, fully expecting it to leak within the first 100 yards. Surprised, it didn't leak.

I mounted my disc to the tractor (Disc weight 525 lbs.) and mad a run down the grass beside my drive and then a short run along the field on the opposite side of the road. It seemed okay. I did notice I needed to shorten the upper arm of the 3 pt., I parked it.

When I went to move it to change from the Disc to the back blade, the 3 pt. would not lift the disc. I got it off and the tractor back in the shop. Check if the 3 pt. would raise and lower, with no weight. It raises with a jerking motion, as if something is be moved across a corrugated piece of metal. I tried to blead any air that may be in the system, still does it. Checked fluid level, it is good, right on the Full Line.
This tractor has given me so much trouble, I am now going to put off, out of the way and let it rust, or if I find a Junk Yard that will take it, it should be worth Scrap Money.
I'm dome with Fords and Ford NAA's especially. 
Sorry this is so long, but it is a lot to say.


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## John C. Posey

I have a International-Harvester 2400A, I have had problems with also. I'm going to tinker with it a little but not much. If it responds, I'll look deeper. No response, then it goes the same route as the Ford NAA.


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## pogobill

John! What kind of fluid are you using in your Ford? The wrong fluid may very well give you the jerky movement when it raises up. Don't scrap the tractor project til you check.
Any UTF, Universal Tractor Fluid, that meets or exceeds M2C134D specification surely work for you. Read the container.


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## John C. Posey

This will Prove I am a Idiot. I don't know what is currently in the NAA. It has been worked on so much and I accumulated so many different Brands and Numbers, I just don't know. Often I am told , "oh. they don't make that anymore. Here this is the same thing, or this replaces what you asked for and is better."


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## John C. Posey

I was reading a reply to this thread and the man replaced several parts in the system and the part that cured his Problem was a Pressure relief valve, associated with the up-down control lever.


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## Ed Williams

The safety valve popping of is a common problem with the NAA. Dad's had been doing the hiccups for some time, but it didn't bother him too much and he let it go. During a motor change on the tool truck using a boom pole to remove the motor, I was inside guiding the motor. The boom pole greatly magnified the motion of the hiccup. At a critical point of getting the motor out of the hole, the lift did a hiccup and mashed my hand rather badly against the top of the firewall. I wound up with 3 broken fingers and 4 broken bones in the hand. Good thing it was the left and not the right. The safety was changed soon after. The cost was minimal compared to the medical bills. It was a good lesson for me, don't let problems go. Tractors will not heal themselves


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## John C. Posey

WOW! Talk about learning the hard way! Seriously, I am very sorry to hear about your injury, it was serious and extensive. I hope the hand healed and is 100% useable.

I would like to ask, exactly where the safety vale is, what does it look like, how do I get to it?
Anything you could tell me is of help.
I know virtually nothing about tractors. I have to look up diagrams and instructions and it seems every body has their own names and descriptions for any given part.

May tractor 3 pt. is vibrating at a rather rapid rate. More like a Chattering or fast bumping.

I don't know what the lift capacity of the NAA 3 pt. is, but the heaviest item I have had on it was the Disc at about 550#. Lifted about 3 or 4 times as I test run the NAA. Seemed okay. Only problem was I needed to adjust the top connection to level the Disc. I parked it for about 2-3 weeks and next time I tried to lift the Disc it only started to lift and stop.
I disconnected the disc and ran the 3 pt. empty and it would rise in a quick jerking motion. It would only go down by gravity, or being pushed.

I have had problems with this tractor since I bought it in 2011.


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## pogobill

I think you are talking about the adjustment knob on the hydraulic pump, perhaps.
Here's a manual brought to you by the NTraactorClub. Start reading at page 65 for hydraulics. Then have a look through the rest of it to help yu understand your tractor better.

http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Ford Tractor Owner's Manual, Model NAA.pdf


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## Ed Williams

My 1953 NAA does not have a hydraulic adjustment knob for the hydraulic pump. The 3 pt hiccup is a direct result of the safety valve having a weak spring or was set incorrectly when installed. The chatter I think is a different problem not related to the safety. It can be caused by an incorrect connection of the lift tube to the external hydraulic lines at the hydraulic reservoir behind the tranny. Also, if memory serves correct, there are 2 different designs for the lift cylinder. The original is a single internal ring seal on the piston. A newer design uses a 2 ring design that stops bypass much better. A chatter can be caused by leakage on the piston ring seal, or there is an internal control valve in the hydraulic system that can be cycling and cause a pulse flow to the lift cylinder.

You need a good shop manual that has the hydraulic flow schematic and illustrations of the control circuit, plus repair guidelines for the system. Steiner has several instructional videos on Youtube for repair of hydraulics on the older tractors.

The NAA is a very good, dependable tractor for most applications, but it has a couple of weak points in my opinion. It only weighs 2800 pounds with 75% ballast in the rears, and the 3 pt lift capacity is only 800 pounds. These put some restrictions on the implements it can handle. For example, it does not handle a std 12" auger very well. It carriers and runs the auger well, but will not lift the auger out of the hole when loaded with dirt. I spent many hours with a floor jack prying the auger out of the holes while running fence. On heaver implements nearing the lift rating, the tractor is light and will pivot on the rear wheels. I have a 2 row 3 pt disc that I added a top platform holding 12 block so the disc would turn the ground better. Not such a good Idea. The lift would pick up the disc, but the front wheels would stay 2 feet off the ground. You had to steer with the brake pedals and the unit would bounce with bothe the tires and disc touching the ground at alternate times. It did work great for strengthening the butt muscles. Note the 150 pound weight I added to the nose of the tractor. It really helped.

The hand accident happened when I was 17. Being young, the hand healed quickly with no restrictions in motion. The only result was the left was always weaker than the right an is more prone to Uncle Arthur.


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## Ed Williams

One big improvement I made was adding a 4000 last year. I weighs 8200 pounds with 75% ballasted tires and has a 3 pt lift capacity of 3200 pounds. It will handle any implement I have with ease.


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## John C. Posey

I don't know how to Thank You enough. This information will be of great help. I have already seen things in it, I didn't know.
Haven't quite deciphered where one compartment ends and another starts. Transmission, hydraulic, differential. So far, I see the hyd. system is the only one calling for Hyd. Fluid. Transmission and differential call for an Extreme Pressure Lubricant.
I'll read through this manual and make notes for myself to follow.

THANK YOU Pogobill!!


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## John C. Posey

I don't have a Pressure Adjustment Knob on my Hydraulic Pump as illustrated in the manual. They show the Original Vane Pump, mind has been changed to a piston pump. It was something that was changed by a ?Mechanic? saying my vane pump was bad. I didn't believe it then and still don't. But that has been 8 years ago.
The Pressure Relief Valve I referred to was one I saw in a diagram and looked to sit either under or to the side of the operating piston.


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## John C. Posey

Hi Ed;

Thank You for your information and ideas of what my NAA problem may be.
This NAA has been trouble from the day it arrived. It has literally been, fix one thing and within a couple days, something else goes wrong. That cycle has repeated itself over and over.

I joke about it being CURSED. Maybe I need a Priest to give it an EXERCISM. 

It has had me at my wits-end, many times. A couple times I thought of getting some Dynamite 
and sending it in many directions. With my luck, it would reassemble it self and be in my yard the next morning.
I have been so aggravated with this tractor that, at times, I have been ready to give it away.

I imagine, We have all been there, at one time or other, with something.


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## Ed Williams

If you decide to give it away, I will send you my mailing address.


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## John C. Posey

Afraid I couldn't afford the Postage. 
I'm toying with the thought of opening the hydraulic case. Not sure I want to get deep into this tractor, again.
This NAA has had 3 pt. problems, ever since I got it in 2011.
Didn't have it for 2 weeks and the 3 pt. stopped. Had a shop fix it. $3000 later I have the NAA and the 3 pt. went up and down 2 or 3 times and quit.
Had a Tractor Dealer fix it, $2800 later I get it back. Worked for about 3 hours clearing snow.
My neighbor and I split the tractor, because I had been shown the hyd. pump gear was spinning free. Put on another gear, plus more parts, got it back together, worked empty.
Attached the Disc and it lifted it. I ran thee disc for about 100-200 feet, raised it and parked it. All seemed well. I went to remove the disc and the 3 pt. would only partially lift it. Got the Disc off, 3 pt. raised slow and only lowered via gravity.
Put it in the shop, test ran, stood on the 3 pt. arms, raised the arms, they came up in a Jerking motion. Short jerks like it was going over an Old Wash Board.
While it ran, I notice the rpms and the oil pressure, both were going up and down, without changing the engine speed.
I'm afraid the Pump Drive Gear may be coming off again. It doesn't just come off, it shears the 4 , 1/4" bolts at the end of the camshaft. Ford later changed to using 5/16" bolts to hold the gear on, but to change the cam so I could use 5/16" bolts, the engine has to come out. 
There has been a string of problems, from the front to the back. Fix one thing and something entirely different goes bad.
Having this Tractor is asking for trouble. Believe me, You don't want it.


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## Ed Williams

It was worth a try. It sounds like there has been so much work on it that the root cause is now hard to identify. I have never heard of any other owners having to use larger cam bolts. FYI. The change from the vane pump to the piston pump was fairly common. It was a direct replacement that did not affect other functions. It just gave better performance, especially if the lift was used a lot.


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## John C. Posey

With the Piston Pump being longer, it mashes the Oil Pressure Sending Tube. It worked, for a short time, but I'm thinking that having driven it, even the short amount I have, may have, the vibration may have allowed the pump to pinch the tube more. It sits against the tube No room.
The Tach jumping makes me think the Pump Drive Gear may be about to shear the bolts. It may be just loose, at the moment. Only way to get to it to tighten, is to split the Tractor. I can remove the Pump and access a small portion of the gear and try to move it, to see if it moves forward and back.
I read the 1/4" bolts had caused problems, shearing off. True? I only read it, don't know anyone that actually experienced it. Mine was sheared off, but I strongly suspect the people I had working on it, the first time, may not have tightened the bolts. Just a suspicion.
The Root Problem may be in the Hyd. Compartment, as has been suggested. This is my first Tractor so I don't know much about their workings and how things work. I'm a little Leary of opening the hyd. compartment.
With this Tractor, I get to the point of frustration where I want to Just Get it out of my sight, but then, I hate to Quit and admit it beat me. I'm stubborn. Very stubborn!


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## Ed Williams

Sounds like you are being ripped at this point. The NAA in good shape is only worth $2500. You might be better served to cut your losses an look at a 68-75 3000 or 4000 model. I just bought a 70 model 4000 3.3 l diesel, 55 HP 3200# lift in very good mechanical shape with 2117 hrs for $3300. It was workable as is, but I spent another $1200 to get it like I wanted. There are a lot of 3000 and 4000 models on the market right now at reasonable prices. The owner was asking $4900 but after a lot of haggeling, cash bills in hand made the deal. That is the best advice I have. Sometimes, you run into albatrosses, and it is best to throw in the towel, cut your loses and move on to a more dependable tractors. The 4000 had no working lights at all and only 1 light housing busted all up. I do a lot of work after dark, so now it has 12 work lights, LED & std, to meet my needs. I probably wasted a lot of money on overkill, but the purchase price allowed me room to make it what I wanted.


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## John C. Posey

Yes, I felt the same way. I was late in realizing it, so that is why I am working on things now, as I can. I have very bad knees and can't do much and if I need to kneel or lay, I have to have something to pull myself up with. Therefore I don't get much done and afterwards, I often need a couple days to get the pain down.
That is a Nice looking tractor in the picture.
I don't mean any Insult or Criticism of anyone's likes and dislikes. So if I offend you, I Apologize.
I have had Bad luck with Fords. New and Used Car, truck and tractor all gave me problems. 
I have only had Good luck buying used with one car. All the other used were someone else's problem, I bought.
My first 2 Tractors are used, this NAA and a IH 2400A. Both have been nightmares. The IH was difficult to keep running and then the 3 pt. stopped working, all of a sudden. Pulled the hyd. filter and the fluid looked like Mud and the filter had bits of rubber stuck in it all over it. Where did the rubber bits come from? I don't know. A local old farmer said it was probably from a seal or gasket and caused by someone using the wrong fluid and it ate the seal/gasket. After changing the filter, the 3 pt. worked very slowly. About that time, the engine became too much to keep running. I'm sure it needs a New carburetor, the one on it has been rebuilt several times with no improvement. I also suspect the Governor may be clogged with crud from years of use.
I adjusted and checked the carb. and I will put it back on, the sediment bowl looked corroded, so I'll replace that, dump some gas in it. If it starts and runs, okay, if not, it is another Junk Yard candidate.
Bottom line is, I'm tired. Tired of working on these things and not getting to use them, before they break again.
I have been looking at a New John Deere. I realize there are Lemons in New also, but it's a better shot for me.
I'm 73 with Coronary Artery Disease, COPD, Arthritis in both knees and both thumbs, so I need something I can go out and it starts and does what I need.
I had looked at a Kubota but got displeased by the Dealer. He kept trying to get me to buy a Full Size Tractor Frame with a 25 hp. engine. Hell my Lawn mower has 26 HP.


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## Ed Williams

I am certainly not offended. Everybody has their personal favorites. My personal favorite is VALUE. The most I can get for my hard earned dollar. I really like JD, but all the used ones have like 8,000 hours on them and are demanding a premium price. I can buy a Ford, Massey, or Case with 75% less hours for less money. I only mentioned Ford because there seems to be a lot of good used tractors in the 40-50 HP on the market right now. I have the same problem with Kabota. They are way overpriced for what you get. A better value can be had with Mahyndra, LS, Coyte, Zetor, RK or TAFE. My only concern is parts with the foreign stuff. You are at the mercy of the dealer. US companies have more after market parts outlets at lower prices. I kind of like the Deutz air cooled diesels, but if they ever go down you have a very expensive lawn ornament. I had a 69 Mustang in a former life that I dearly loved and tried every way in the world to keep it going, 2 replacement motors, 3 trannys, 1 rear end, and countless body parts. I got a real slap in the face when I realized I had invested $7,000 in a car I originally paid $1600 for. Got really pissed and went to a local dealer and bought a brand spanking new Trans Am with every option available. Total cost, $6200. I felt like a real idiot. I junked the Mustang with 350,000 on it for $50. Sometimes life's lessons are a brutal awakening. 

Dealers are a little high, but they don't sell bad equipment and will take it back if you find something bad wrong. They have to protect their reputation to stay in business. Not so for the individual. I would take a good mechanic with me for a private sale and pay him the $100 inspection fee. Its well worth. Some private owners will be offended, most will not. It is your right to have equipment evaluated by a third party. The honest sellers understand and sometimes encourage an independent inspection as there is no return policy.


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## John C. Posey

I agree with you. Getting parts for some of the foreign stuff is impossible.
I have found many of the Tractor are made in other countries. I thought of a Massey and found they were made in, I believe, it was India and aren't available in the US. Last I read John Deere's are made overseas, again I believe, India, except 100 hp. and above. I believe the lower HP. tractors are assembled in the US from foreign parts. New Holland, I don't know.
My Ford NAA is kind of like your Mustang, but I haven't replaced major parts. A large portion of what I have spent on the NAA was in Labor. In any case, I have about $9000 in the NAA and about $6000 in the IH. $15,000 would have been most of the cost of a nice tractor.
Oh well, spilled milk. I can regret and moan all I want, but it is still money gone.

That has been my problem, I went out and looked at tractors and don't know enough to know what I'm looking at.
A Good Mechanic?? Where do you find them? I talk with a Member on here, I believe he is Good. He has given me some really good advise and tutored me through working on the NAA.
He has been a lot of help. He lives too far away to look at tractors with me.
There is an Old Farmer locally who is a great mechanic, but he's Old and has enough money he doesn't need money and when he goes to the Auction I never know it until afterwards.

If I used Logic and Common Sense, I would sell this place and move closer to a town, where the largest Tractor I would need, would be a Lawn Tractor.

Tomorrow and Sunday are supposed to be in the 50's, it would be a good time to go into town and get a sediment bowl and some fresh gas and Sunday install the carb and sediment bowl then dump some gas in, see if it will start.
Depending whether it run right, I'll take the NAA out of the garage and put the IH in. The one thing it needs is to have each hyd. line (all metal tubing) blown out, to remove any bits of rubber that may be in them. There is a basket full of control valves along the way. I may need to take some apart and clean them, if not too complicated. There are several I have seen the exploded view and they look very complicated. One cost over $6oo and is only made in England. By the time it would get here, it probably would be a few $100 dollars more.

I was looking at some Used Tractors on a Dealers site and You are 100% correct about some tractors being over-priced. 3-4-5 year old tractors with price tags as much as New.


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## John C. Posey

Thought I would say, "HI". Its been a while since I was here.
Worked on the NAA at times. Whatever I fix and get working, something else immediately breaks/goes wrong.
Recently, an Old Farmer here told me I had the wrong oil in the Trans, Differential and Hyd.. I changed to what he suggested and like magic, the 3 pt. worked like it was New.
About a 1/2 Hour later, it started to backfire. A little later it ran out of gas. I towed it t the garage, put some gas in, parked it in the Garage. That was Tuesday.
Today I went to change the Hyd. fluid in the bucket lift.
Decided to start the NAA. It was hard to start. It usually started with about 4-5 turns.
When it did start it was running rough, that was new. Usually ran fairly smooth. It backfired often and wouldn't stay running.
Thinking water in gas, I emptied the Sediment Bowl and drained the carb, plus let gas run through the carb.
Tried again, same thing.
Removed the Dist. Cap. Rotor looked good, points were a mess. Looked like corrosion on them. I cleaned them and cleaned the contacts in the Dist. Cap, pulled the plugs and they were sooted.
Cleaned everything and reinstalled. Started the NAA, same thing.
I will admit the gas is old. I'll try some New gas, maybe tomorrow.
I'm at my wits end with this thing.


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## pogobill

Hello John, It certainly has been a while. glad to see you back. Sounds like the fun continues. Your timing might be a little out since you filed the points. I'd go with fresh gas before I meddle with anything else. Do you use any sort of fuel stabilizer in your gas? Seems you got fuel 6 months ago according to your previous post.


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## John C. Posey

Hi pogobill;

Yes this NAA could be a Life Time Project. It has already been a money-pit and the source of much frustration, so much so, I actually Gav the tractor to a local man. In fact, the IH and NAA were both given to him.
He picked up the IH but has been back to get the NAA. In the mean-time I got the idea to try his recommendation of changing the lube in the trans., diff. and Hyd.. After doing so, they worked like New.
I need to clear some brush back from the driveway, to allow for a Big truck to spread gravel. I started the NAA and a few minutes into use it started to backfire. I figured it was likely a little water in the gas and thinking it would clear itself, continued, then it ran out of gas. Pulled it back to the garage, added gas and parked it in the garage.
Two days later when I started it, it was hard to start and ran rough.
I'm down to the final couple ideas. Fresh Gas, timing (though I don't know how or why it would have changed), having sat for a while the carb may need to come off and cleaned. It was a new carb last year but some water may have been in it from sitting and fouled the passages or stuck the float.
I think this thing must be haunted or cursed. Too many things go wrong and especially as soon as one thing is fixed, something else goes wrong. It has become a pattern.

I'm looking for another tractor though I am Very leery of another used one and not too confident a New one would be better, Plus New tractors cost more than I'm comfortable with.


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## pogobill

Too bad you didn't try to recoup some of your investment. $15,000.00 is a lot of money to throw away. I have 7 tractors, one doesn't run, the others are between adequate and great. all but one are 1950 or older. I have 2 8N's that ran great when I bought them, and the purchase of a few manuals have kept me happy and the tractors running. I also have a 2004 Case that has never let me down, three point and a front end loader. It does everything I want it to do, Bought it used after many months of research and looking around. Had it for over ten years now!

The next time you buy a tractor, I suggest you make sure it works extremely well, and source a few manuals before you buy. Also check on parts availability to make sure you can keep it running properly.

I feel bad that we couldn't keep you in a state of happy tractoring. Make sure you ask the lads here on the site about any potential purchases in the future. I find that a lot of folks buy a broke down, discontinued tractor brand and then ask the question about parts and reliability. Make sure you ask first, before you buy!.


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## John C. Posey

It would have been nice to some of that money back, I was at such a state of Frustration and discuss with them, I just wanted them gone.

Addressed the NAA again today. I had already given the accumulated information on the NAA and IH to the guy I gave the tractors to. Yesterday when I removed thee plugs and cleaned them, I took the gap from memory and I guessed to tight. What I accomplished was to cure the tractor from backfiring because of built-up soot and caused it to backfire due to too small of a gap.
Today I pulled the plugs and set them at .025 - .027.
Started up okay and with a little adjusting of the carb, it ran okay. Let it sit and run at about 600 rpm and no problem.

Now if it only had Power Steering and a smaller bucket lift and bucket. The one on it is far too large for a NAA.

What you said is all Good Advice!

At the time I bought the IH and the NAA they worked. It was soon after they started being trouble.


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## Ed Williams

John C. Posey said:


> It would have been nice to some of that money back, I was at such a state of Frustration and discuss with them, I just wanted them gone.
> 
> Addressed the NAA again today. I had already given the accumulated information on the NAA and IH to the guy I gave the tractors to. Yesterday when I removed thee plugs and cleaned them, I took the gap from memory and I guessed to tight. What I accomplished was to cure the tractor from backfiring because of built-up soot and caused it to backfire due to too small of a gap.
> Today I pulled the plugs and set them at .025 - .027.
> Started up okay and with a little adjusting of the carb, it ran okay. Let it sit and run at about 600 rpm and no problem.
> 
> Now if it only had Power Steering and a smaller bucket lift and bucket. The one on it is far too large for a NAA.
> 
> What you said is all Good Advice!
> 
> At the time I bought the IH and the NAA they worked. It was soon after they started being trouble.


A backfire is usually a timing problem. A exhaust valve is slightly open when it backfires thru exhaust, intake if it backfires thru carb. If it has set for an extended period, the mechanical advance located under the points mounting plate may be frozen causing the motor to be out of time without the distributor moving. The 134 motor has been extremely good running, but a little hard on gas. There are literally thousands of these old tractors in daily use. My 53 NAA starts with noproblem hot or cold and runs well. Not bad for a 68 year old tractor. I have owned it for 47 years and it is very dependable. The only recurring problem has been the left rear hub which has been replaced twice. The other side no problem . I suspect a bad bearing,, but not bad enough to tear down. 20 years on a $50 hub is okay with me.

You might also take the valve cover off and check for a stuck valve or weak valve spring which can also cause the problem. My biggest complaint is a rather weak lift and the gearing is too high for some of the modern implements causing constant governor action and surging of the motor. Probably due for an overhaul with about 6000 hours on it now.


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## John C. Posey

Hi Ed;

I have given the naa to a local man, though he hasn't come to get it yet.
I wish he would come and get it, it is too much of a temptation to work on, sitting in my garage.
Since giving it away, I have changed the Hyd., Trans, and Diff. fluids. The thing is operating well.
The problem is the engine, now, is the engine is not running right.
I used it for about 45 minutes, yesterday. Let's just say, "I did not fall in Love with it". 

Sounds like you have a good one. I have a Lemon.

I would think, with all the people out of work with this Virus thing, there would be tons of used tractors for Sale.
The most I see is the Monster Size tractors and Heavy Equipment, very few Small Tractors. Many Glorified Lawn Mowers.

I want to get a New Massey-Ferguson or John Deere compact, but they can't be found. Dealers are empty and used ones are 
minimum HP 25 to 30 hp.
Doesn't sound like much but I want a 39.?HP or a little better. 

Even started looking for Used Tractors, though I have been bitten twice by used, and the same think, No Tractors, Huge tractors and junk.

I'll just keep looking. There was one JD I would have bought, off Craig's List, but it was in CONNECICUT and I'm in WA.. Kind of hard to see it at that distance.


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## John C. Posey

I once saw an advertisement from a guy on Craig's List, years ago now.

He was selling a snow plow. It was a frame that ran under the tractor, hooked to the 3 pt. hitch. The other end of the frame stuck out from under the tractor. And the snow blade
Attached to it there. There may have been a Pivot-Point on the underside of the tractor.

I thought it was an inventive implement. I didn't need anything like that then. Now, I'm thinking it would be a great implement to install on my NAA this winter.

Problem is , not matter how many different ways I describe it on the Internet, I get information for everything except what I want.

Are any of the Members Familiar with this. If so Please supply what information you can.

Thanks Everyone!!!


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