# 1980 Ford 3600 fuel injection problems



## Singleton (Feb 7, 2015)

My fathers tractor went from having no throttle response to no fuel to the injectors. I started with cleaning the the fuel shutoff on the bottom of the tank then replaced the fuel filter, I can bleed the system successfully to the pump but can't seem to get it to the injectors.just wondering should I just pull the pump and have it rebuilt.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Singleton,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland tractor forum.

The first thing I'm going to post for you is a bleeding procedure. Please review this procedure to see if there's anything more that you can do.

This is a procedure originally posted by Jerry/MT on the YT Forum. I’ve added a few things, but it’s the best detailed bleeding procedure that I’ve seen.

My tractor can be a PITA to get started if I run it out of fuel, or if the filter gets plugged. As a result, I never let it run out of fuel.
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Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen. 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

Your pump may have a small bleeder screw (5/16" wrench fits it). It is mounted on the side of the pump facing out. If so, open(loosen) that and crank engine until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. Otherwise loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittngs in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Singleton,

Attached are parts diagrams for your tractor's fuel system.

Screens/filters to check:

See item #9 on the fuel system diagram - screen attached to the shutoff valve at the fuel tank. You said you serviced the shut off valve, which I assume included cleaning this screen. 

See item #8 on the injection pump diagram. Inlet filter to the pump. I've never had a problem with this filter, but if you decide to check it, make certain that the entire area in vicinity is carefully cleaned. One spec of dirt can cause you major problems. Also, take it apart very carefully and make sure you know how it goes back together. 

Other items to check:

Check the function of your kill rod/cable. When you pull it out the kill lever on the injection pump should go up against the stop. When you push it in, it should move well away from the kill position. I've seen at least one case where the kill lever was not moving away from the kill position when the rod/cable was pushed in.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

If you decide to pull the injection pump and have it rebuilt, have the injectors serviced/rebuilt at the same time. 

Clean well around the pump and injectors before starting, and cover all fuel openings as you dismantle them.

To pull the injection pump, you first have to remove the small timing gear cover to access the pump drive gear. See item#38 on the attached parts diagram. There are three bolts (with alignment dowel) mounting the drive gear to the pump. The gear will be self contained within the timing gear cover. You can put marks on the gears to ensure it goes back together right. Do not crank the engine with this drive gear loose inside the cover. 

To get to this cover, you have to get the fan shroud off at a minimum. You may want to remove the radiator. 

Hope this all makes sense to you. Ask questions if confused. 

Good Luck.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I would start with examining the levers and cable/rod. If these are not working properly, you may get the troubles you have described.

Here is a video that explains the parts and how to take the cover off: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTyqaMYbYyg
The throttle lever is mentioned at 1:30
The shut off (kill) lever is mentioned at 4:27.
"...the shaft is elongated.." means that the part of the shaft that holds the lever has an elongated cross section. The lever has an elongated hole to fit the shaft.

Disconnect the cable from the kill lever and check that lever is able to turn all the way.
Make sure that the lever is positoned correctly on the shaft and that the nut is tightened properly. If not, the lever may turn perfectly, but the shaft is not turning.
Connect the cable and make sure the lever is turned all the way by the cable.
Feel and listen to make sure that the shaft is moving something inside the pump, without excessive force. Just by hand.
Do the same for the throttle lever (rod instead of cable) with return spring removed. Then check that the return spring arrangement is working properly.


If you are not able to turn the lever/shaft assemblies all the way, something is wrong inside the pump.
Here is an example of a pump that has a good deal of rust inside, it is a miracle that he got it functioning...:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhFGrLtOBO8

He disconnects the throttle shaft from the linkage to get the cover off (at 3:10). That gives him trouble at reassembly. Better to do as the man in the other video, push the throttle shaft through the cover and you have the linkage arrangement intact. There are multiple holes for adjusting the spring inside, and you will be better off leaving the spring in place. Just push the shaft back into the cover on reassembly.



Check out:
"CAV Workshop Manual Fuel Injection Pump" at http://www.solidebolide.nl/downloads.html
and
"CAV DPA Pump Rebuild Manual" at http://www.fujiyachts.net/...Up Keep...System Manuals...Engines
Direct link:
www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/CAV DPA Pump Rebuild Manual.pdf


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## Singleton (Feb 7, 2015)

*The fix*

So here is the fix, after driving 3 hours to get to the tractor . I ended up pulling the end off the injection pump removing 4 bolts with a 5/16s wrench but before doing that I gave the pump a good wash down with brake clean. Inside that end cap are some very small parts , several springs and a very fine screen that was plugged solid. On a clean surface I removed all the parts in a specific order making sure they went back in the same way. Washed every thing down and reassembled. I followed the bleed procedure in the above post and the tractor fired right away . My father says it's running better than ever with an increased rpm from 2200 to 2600. Thanks for all your info and help.
Just another note the screen and springs are under the fitting that holds the fuel line on the back of the pump, it takes a 15/16s wrench to get it off and it helps to loosen it before you remove the end plate.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Great!, always nice with a quick and easy solution. My impression was that you managed to bleed the pump but not the injectors. That would indicate a disturbance after the inlet filter.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Singleton,

Thanks for the reply!! That is the first time I've ever found this inlet screen plugged. 

Please tell your father that 2200 rpm is fast enough! 

Please note that Hacke is from Norrkoping, Sweden. So you had guidance from across the Atlantic Ocean. His posts are always outstanding. He will take you down deep inside that pump if necessary, and fix it. He's simply the best!!


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