# Ford 4000 SelectOspeed Gas 1963 4 Cyl. Help



## jdallycase (Aug 17, 2008)

Hello 
I have a SelectOspeed Ford 4000 1963 Model 4 cylinder gas with 10 speed and two reverse. The problem I'm having is that I had it parked in the shop for seven years without starting it or moving it all. Today I installed a new battery, cleaned the carb and she runs like a dream except I cannot get it to go into gear. I have forced it to a point that the nut slipped in the housing. So I took the shifter apart, cleaned it up, greased it and put it back together tightening the nut real good. Now I still cannot get the shifter to move at all into any gear. The cable looks as good as new thankfully. I have tried it running and non running and it will not move at all. I have tried rocking the tractor thinking maybe that would move some gears around to assist me into shifting but I have not had any luck. I have read so many forums, but still cannot find an answer, any help would be great. I also want to comment that I've owned it for 15 years and have never ever had a problem until now due to my own negligence. Seven years ago it ran perfect, I drove it into the shop and began restoration then ran into some medical problems that held me up for several years. Any advice would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks for all the great advice on your forum. 
Robb


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## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy Robb,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland tractor forum. 

As you are well aware, there are very few of the old SOS mechanics remaining. For example, your transmission is 50+years old. Most of the old mechanics are gone. So you are going to have to become an SOS "expert" yourself, if you want to continue on with this project.

First thing you need to do is get an OEM Service Manual. An I&T FO-20 shop manual will also be helpful. Study them thoroughly.

Dumb question: Is your disconnect lever in the "freewheeling" position? 

After sitting for 7 years, most likely something is rusted in place. Stuck valves, 
shift linkage, inching pedal innards, etc. 

The only real SOS expertise that I know of is on the YT forum. There's a guy named Larry that is very knowledgeable, plus a number of guys with some SOS experience. I'm certain they will all tell you to get a manual and know what you are doing before you embark on this project.


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## jdallycase (Aug 17, 2008)

*Hi Edf*

Hi Edf,
Thanks for the reply. I do have a manual and have read it front and back but nothing to help me from sitting so many years. And yes everything seems to be in order as it should and all seems to be working except for the stuck shifter. It's not stuck up at the top, so it must be below the plate and into the tranny somewhere. I will check Larry out like you said. Thanks 
Robb


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## jdallycase (Aug 17, 2008)

Hi Edf
Just wanted to let you know that I was able to take the cover plate off of the trans, but did not remove completely, I removed the shifter cable first, Loosened the Pto from the hood and left it attatched to the trans. I then swung the cover towards the Pto cable and tied it up as high as I could to the steering wheel. I was then able to remove the shifter assembly from the top of the trans. I found several sticky valves. I was able to loosen them with WD 40 working them back and forth without removing any pistons from the assembly thank god then because I would of had to adjust those too. I put it back together after removing the gasket and making a gasket out of permatex, leaving the permatex sit for two hours then snugged the bolts barely, and the next morning I torqued the bolts installed the shifter per my measurements and it shifts like a new tractor again. Thanks for all your advice. Also I have another problem now that I will post later. My hydraulics are froze up from the condensation from sitting. I removed the seat and the bolts holding the lift cover down but cannot get the lift cover to lift except for a half inch. I read the manuals but cannot see that anything else is attatched. Do you know how to get the lift cover off? Thanks for any help.
Robb


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## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello again Robb,

Congratulations on getting your SOS transmission working again. 

I found the following post on the internet written by *TX641D*: A 641D should be very similar to your '63 4000. 

*"1) Put draft control lever in vertical position, step on lift arms to remove any hydraulic fluid. 
2) Remove Top link pin and lift arm pins. They can be stubborn if they haven't been removed before. The holes in the lift brackets or pins may not line up like they did when new, thus requiring some elbow grease to knock the pins out. 
3) Remove Fenders (so not to scratch them) 
4) Remove Seat 
5) Loosen 11 perimeter bolts around lift cover including the 4 on the accessory cover and the small hex bolt in the center of the accessory cover. Remove the accessory cover and get the last hex bolt (12th in total) securing the lift cover to the chassis. The other 3 interior hex bolts remain in place securing the control unit to the lift cover, so that you don't drop the control unit into the sump. Number the bolts and holes with sharpie so you know where they go upon reinstall. 
6) Using a 6' pry bar, pop lift cover from rear by applying pressure under the left lift arm using the differential housing for leverage. 
7) Takes two guys to lift the cover straight up and away from tractor. Set on table, control unit facing up."*


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## jdallycase (Aug 17, 2008)

Thanks for the reply,
Mine has 14 bolts and I am not sure about the hex nut in the center but will check that out. Good advice on the draft control,I'll try that. Thanks again.
Robb


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## GardjcinPA (Oct 20, 2014)

*spark problems*

I also have a Ford 4000 series SOS. Still trying to figure out the year it was made by posting some numbers I found on the side of the tractor, but yours sounds very similar. My questions to you are:
1. Where did you find a service , maintenance manual for it. I need something idiot proof since I am not real familiar with this tractor yet.
2. I recently put a new coil on it and a new battery, cleaned the points and still have no spark at the coil or spark plugs. 
Have you any suggestions as to what I should check next?
Thanks, GardjcinPA


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## jdallycase (Aug 17, 2008)

Hello GardjcinPa,
I bought my service manuals from Ebay and I also bought a manual on cd from Ebay for use with the computer so I can print out the page with pictures. First off when the switch is on make sure you have 12 volt going into the coil. If there is 12 volt there then you either have a problem with the points, condenser, or maybe the coil. I have also seen problems with the rotor and cap cause no spark but rare. You can check online for the gap, I think it might be close to 22 thousands, but not too sure. That is where I usually start until I get spark then a readjust to spec according to the manual. Also make sure the wire going into the side of the distributor is nice and clean and not grounding out and make sure the positive and negative terminals on the coil are clean. You can buy the parts you need on Ebay for the tractor. Let us know how you make out and good luck to you.
Robb


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## jdallycase (Aug 17, 2008)

Hello Edf,
I finally got the control arms down. I took the excavator and dropped the shovel down on it slowly and brought them right down. Now I can finally take the cover off to explore and repair. Thanks for all the good advice.
Robb


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## GardjcinPA (Oct 20, 2014)

Thanks Robb,
I had a car mechanic friend explain to me what the condenser was and then looked it up online. He called it "the pick-up". Anyhow, I found a few used ones in the previous owners parts box. I'll try that next. Now if I could find out the year of this thing I could get the correct manual. I know it is a '62,'63,or '64. I don't know if the manuals are the same for those 3 years? I was told on here to look above and behind the starter for a set of 3 numbers, post them on here and somebody could decipher them as to the year of production. I don't have a set of 3 numbers anywhere near that location, once again thanks for your information.
JG


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy GardjcinPA,

Good advice from Robb. Couple of things that I can think of:

1) Try a hotwire straight from the battery hot side to the input side of the coil. This will isolate the keyswitch and maybe a resistor or resistor wire in circuit to the coil as possible problems.

2) Point setting is .025"


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