# Craftsman 917.273280 DYT 4000 crankshaft issue



## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

*Craftsman 917.274640 DYT 4000 crankshaft seized*

HI all

I was wondering if someone can help me out here.

I have this dyt 4000. was running fine last week until after a few starts it began to vibrate alot and then it just stopped to a halt.
Its possibe that i did hit a few tree stumps and rocks.


The fly wheel no longer spins by hand

I had disconnected battery, removed spark plug and removed starter.
Removed flywheel and magneto key

i raised up the front end with a jack, spun the mower blades by hand.
they do spin and does not hit the sides
I the pulley does not spin.
The belts rotate around the pulley.

My guess, its something to do with the crankshaft.

Now, i know this wont be easy, but is there a youtube on this exact model to remove the crankshaft?

I need to get the belts off those pulleys as well

If anyone can guide, please do.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

That has an electric PTO clutch on it. The engine won't turn , if the PTO is not energized.
You'll have to turn the engine by the flywheel,to see if it will turn.
Also, there are 2 different engines,for that model.
One is made by Briggs&Stratton,and the other is made by Hydro-Gear.
Engine #'s help,a lot.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Only one engine Model-
Briggs 407777-0121-E4.
Hydro Gear is the transaxle.

http://ccdist.com/_serviceManuals/briggs/273521.pdf


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

This is searspartsdirect's site,Bill.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...t=&q=917.273280&searchTerm=917273280&shdPart=

It lists the Hydro-Gear engine # 336-0510 ,also.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

They can call it whatever they want, but it's still a transaxle/hydro.
Look at page 48 of the OM.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Fine,,,,transaxle.


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

*Part number*

I've attached part number photo.
The fly wheel does not spin.
I taken off the flywheel and huge but.
Removed the engine completely from tractor.
Removed the rockerrs and sparkplug.
Still piston does not move freely.
I'm about the take apart the engine and look at the camshaft

The engine is very hard to open without using a metal hammer.
I. Have been using a rubber hammer.I am not able to open without using a large amount of hammering.I'm afraid it will crack the engine block.
I can separate it about a quarter inch all around but hard to get off.
Help? Please


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Which is an entirely different tractor than a 917.273280.

http://ccdist.com/_serviceManuals/briggs/276781.pdf


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

*Part number*

917.274640. Is my model tractor.


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

This is where I am stuck.
I can't seem to separate this.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

The crankshaft may be frozen or stuck in the bearing? If so, screw a bolt with washer in the end of the shaft (to prevent damage to the shaft/threads). Then hit the bolt head with a steel hammer. Pull. Whack. Pull. Whack.........You get the picture!

You may damage the connecting rod pulling laterally on it...it's not designed to withstand lateral forces. Check it when done.


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

Ok.looks like rod connector broke.I finally got it apart.
Camshaft took a lot of effort to remove.stuck in the assembly.

Everything else looks good.just the rod connector and possible camshaft to be replaced.

From removing all this, it seems as if the camshaft was scratching or dried up in the assembly and as it spun around, without oil, it burred into the metal.
Take a look below.

Hopefully i can rent a tool to smooth out the assembly and maybe a buffer for the cam shaft?

I know i need to order another connector rod and gaskets.
hopefully, i can buy good gaskets somewhere for a good price.

I see ebay and amazon sells the parts.


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

I got the camshaft and the housing detached.
Inside has scratches and the camshaft may need cleaning.nothing looks bent.
What are your thoughts?
Can I somehow clean and reuse this all?


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

*resurfacing inside the assembly where camshaft goes*

Anyone know if i can rent something from like autozone or pepboys that i can put on my drill and lightly sand out the scratches?

I also need to remove the metal that is pressed onto the camshaft end where it seized on me?


Please let me know any thoughts.

I appreciate all your replys.

Thank you

Zelio


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

No thoughts from anyone?
On how to clean it up from the scratches?


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## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

Zelio,

It appears the engine was run out of oil. Is the cylinder wall damaged? If so, the engine is FUBAR. Or you will have to spend more than the engine is worth to properly fix it. 

The camshaft bearing is fused to the camshaft. What you have is a "spun bearing". Normally, to do the job right, these scratches are machined/bored out and an oversize OD bushing/bearing is installed. You can try heat to get the bearing off the camshaft, but the camshaft bearing surface is ruined.

You should be able to get a replacement Briggs engine for $400-$500.


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

Thank you for the reply.
What would happen if I buff the scratches out lightly and clean up the camshaft and reassemble?
Would it still not work properly?


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

Hey all
So i rebuilt this engine
buffed up crankshaft, replaced bearing seals on the block.
Got new seals, put it all together,
replaced fuel filter and new spark plug
The fly wheels spins nice by hand, not like before.
Filled it up with oil,connected all wireing back.

Now im facing an issue, when i try to start, it spins but wont take, i know gas is going through, i can see it spitting into the carb.
but, when i disconnect spark plug wire, same issue happens, so , how do i go from this?

I put it on a youtube clip to watch, [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BR3RSUCPjsI&feature=em-upload_owner"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BR3RSUCPjsI&feature=em-upload_owner[/ame]
please let me know your thoughts.

Thank you.


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Hello Zelio,

Have you checked the spark. You should have a blue-white spark. An orange spark is not good enough. If you haven't checked it, pull a spark plug and rest the metal body on a clean metal ground. Check spark in a shaded or dark area so you can see it.

If you have good spark, spray some starting fluid into the air cleaner while cranking. Be careful, because if the timing is off, or valves are not set correctly it could spit fire back through the carb or out the exhaust.

Next step would be to check compression.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

After pulling the crank and cam out, I'd put my money on timing being off.:usa:


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

When i put back together, i had aligned the dot on the link counterweight with the dot on the "gear timing"
I had removed valves too, to clean out debris.
I had put in a new gasket for rocker cover as well.
I gauged the rocker valves as well, unless i did that part wrong


I can double check it tho, if someone can give me the gauge for the top and bottom valves?

The spark plug tested with blue spark, on a new spark plug.
I can see gas spitting into the carb. sometimes smoke too.
i can hear compression back fireing into the carb as well.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Redo your valve clearances. Make sure you are at the top of the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke when setting valves clearances.
You can find specs on Google and watch how to do procedure in Youtube. Also, check your governor adjustment while at it.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

There is also spark timing.
Did you make sure the flywheel key is properly installed and not broken?


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## RM-MN (Sep 11, 2015)

The point gap on those engines is quite critical. I've seen those symptoms when the points were gapped to wide. Use a feeler gauge and don't gap them any wider than specified.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

RM-MN said:


> The point gap on those engines is quite critical. I've seen those symptoms when the points were gapped to wide. Use a feeler gauge and don't gap them any wider than specified.


What points?


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## RM-MN (Sep 11, 2015)

Bill Kapaun said:


> What points?


If that engine has electronic ignition, ignore my post. I was expecting it was older and had ignition points.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

RM-MN said:


> If that engine has electronic ignition, ignore my post. I was expecting it was older and had ignition points.


The pictures in posts 10 & 18 show it to be an OHV engine.

Looking the engine up at Sears shows it's a Briggs 31P777-0348-E1


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

OK.
I checked spark plug.its got a blue spark.
I replaced the magneto anyways.wire looked freyed.
With the spark plug coil disconnected.it spins the same way.like the YouTube clip.
No changes.
Is it possible the carb is clogged?
I reopened the engine block.checked alignment.the dot on the crankshaft gear aligned with the camshaft gear.
Replaced gasket .remounted everything.
Same thing is happening.but at least I know the finding is good inside.

I checked the seat sensor.looks fine.but how can I test it further?
If I try to run it without anyone in seat it also starts the same exact way as in the video.
So its possible that you can still try to start it.without anyone in the seat but won't turn over?

Zelio


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

If it was running good when you blew the engine, the carb should not be your problem. Stay out of it. Have you checked whether your valves were adjusted correctly on the compression stroke?


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

I checked the fly wheel key.its good.
I double checked the the valve adjustments using a feeler gauge.
I had it top center and then a quarter turn.
I was suggested to do .005 for both?

I won't touch the carb.
I'm wondering.if it is compression?
I am not sure how to do a compression test.

Z


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

"I double checked the the valve adjustments using a feeler gauge.
I had it top center and then a quarter turn.
I was suggested to do .005 for both?

That's the problem!
It's a 1/4", not a 1/4 turn!


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Ok, one more time. He's right on it being not a quarter turn, but !!!
The piston reaches TDC twice on a four cycle engine. The valves need to be adjusted at the top of the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke.


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

Okay.I adjusted it twice.
Poured a bit of gas before I put spark plug back in.still no go.

Here is my video
Maybe I'm missing something?
https://youtu.be/2rhbzwZYZgQ


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Didn't quite understand what you did under the seat. Either jump or tie those two wires together (Do not let them touch ground anywhere.) and give it a try.


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

Ahhh ,good point.
I will jump the wires together instead.

What I had done ,under the seat,was that I unbolted the wire bracket with springs.
I had removed the metal spacers on the under side which then allowed the nuts to tighten the bottom plate to the under seat plate very tightly. Without springs.

I will see if I can rewire that thing without grounding.
Just not sure how the wires connect from that.
I will reply back on what I find.

Thanks everyone.
Z


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

IF you are talking about the seat safety switch wires, tying them together will insure no spark.


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

I'm confused.
Should the wires be touching ground or not? 
If I tie those wires together.it never grounds.z
How is that supposed to work or what should I do to by pass on his safety feature?

Thanks
Z.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Study the schematic in the owners manual.
ANYTHING that grounds the M terminal of the key switch kills spark.

If you don't have an OM, click the link.
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0521918.pdf


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

Thank you for the manual.
As of now.when on the seat.I can start it up and see the blue spark coming out of the spark plug.
I had rested spark plug on engine.
Sparks blue every time when cranking.
Just doesn't make sense why it just won't turn over.
Maybe I'll need to hire someone for a second pair of eyes?

Was hoping it be as simple as a wire issue.
If the solenoid was bad,would I still get a spark?

Z


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

If the solenoid was bad, it wouldn't crank!

BTW- You do know that 12V is NOT required for ignition???


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## zeltech (Nov 16, 2014)

Thank you everybody. I think what I will do for now is put the tractor away for now.
I will continue working on this in spring time.
You all have been very helpful and I appreciate it. Thank you again. 

Hope you all have a happy holidays and happy new year.

Zelio


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

FWIW, I have a DYT4000 as well. Two summers ago, the engine blew. Found out this was a common thing for the Briggs 18.5Hp engines. Anyhow, this DYT4000 is made for Sears by Husqvarna. Found out that the Husqvarna model uses the Kohler M18. Both riders use the same frame and all the other hardware too. I found a downer rider to do the engine swap from CraigsList. Amazing what a V-twin cylinder engine can do vs. that Briggs single cylinder. Just the torque is very impressive. In the thick tall grass, the Briggs would bog down and stall, the Kohler just keeps going ! 

So, for less than 6 hours doing the swap (includes lunch), sharpening the blades, and changing the fluid out in the Peerless-2000 transaxle, the cost was a mere $500 overall. The Kohler has one other benefit, it has a manual choke. Thus, I can easily start it in very cold weather for snow removal use. BUT, down south, where's the snow? 

The one thing I do not like about the DYT4000 or the DYT or LT series riding mowers is the deck height adjustment arm-lever. It's a very poor design that will break often. Either by use or by vibration over time. 

I too had a choice to rebuild the Briggs 18.5Hp engine or do the swap. The swap to a known better engine for about the same cost and less headache was the answer.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

At the time, Husqvarna, Sears Weedeater, Poulan and a couple others were made by AYP, so saying the Sears was made by Husqvaqrna isn't quite correct.

IF you study the similar level tractors across all those names, you'll see they are all basically the same thing with enough "tweaks" to keep them from being identical.

IF the Husq version was using a Kohler Magnum 18, the others were probably using a Briggs opposed 42 model.

Typically, swapping issues boil down to mufflers & charging systems.
Otherwise, they're just engines.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Bill Kapaun said:


> At the time, Husqvarna, Sears Weedeater, Poulan and a couple others were made by AYP, so saying the Sears was made by Husqvaqrna isn't quite correct.
> 
> IF you study the similar level tractors across all those names, you'll see they are all basically the same thing with enough "tweaks" to keep them from being identical.
> 
> ...


If you go back in time to when these machine were made, AYP did not own Husqvarna. It was Electrolux Home Products Division.  

Likewise, the John Deere and Club Cadet's are not in the same realm as there are a few that run on diesel too. Yanmar lawn tractors provided those.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

They require a valve check, and adjustment every 100 hrs or so. The L heads, and the intek v twin engines are common for valve push rod slack. I have a ys4500, and a dys 4500, and both where built for sears by husqvarna. The kohlers these days are not what they use to be either kawai, and honda imo are the best options lately.


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