# White LT-13 cruisematic



## OHfishing

Hello , I tried to start a thread and it disappeared , I hope I didnt double post...

Anyhow Im Joe from NE Ohio , and I own a 
WHITE LT-13
model number 13aa672f190

13 hp overhead valve if it matters.

my operators manual reads = model 672

So.... towards the end of summer , I noticed my battery was going , the tractor didnt want to turn for me , so I started using jumper cables. It worked for me a few times until once the jumper cable wires got HOT , I felt it and stopped trying to start it. 

I bought the new battery (180cca) and installed it , turned the key and nothing ... not a sound.

The next morning my new battery was dead as if something was drawing power from it through the night.

I charged my new battery and left it disconnected. 

I then pulled my starter , and hooked the jumper cables directly to it on the floor , it spun just fine and sounded good , so I put it back on the tractor. I hooked the jumper cables red to the starters stud post and ground to the tractors frame , it spun for me but seemed weak like half power.

If my starter was bad , would it spin at all? or would it spin weak like the videos?

Please see attached videos

Video #1 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TmBtILtgwf4]YouTube - 045[/ame]

Video #2 [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYfs90U092A]YouTube - 047[/ame]

Then I took the jumper cables and hooked red to starters stud post then ground to the stater both where it meets the engine , and it tried to turn over , sounded right .

To me as if it was a ground problem.

So in good faith I replaced the solenoid , it didnt help , I also ordered a new ignition and should have it by tommorow.

I fear that I burned something up ...

Yes I checked the fuse (20 amp) and its fine. 

I should mention a few things....

The tractor ran fine all summer , and I cut the lawn one day , drove it into the barn and parked it like always... before I tried to jump it everything was perfect.

I should also mention that for some reason now the wheels wont go into neutral when I press the clutch ot shift into neutral. They are stuck... Is this a safety feature? or is something else broke?

What else can I replace that would narrow down my problem? I dont mind spending a few bucks to keep her running... 

I changed the oil , fuel filter , air filter and spark plug today also in good faith that I will get this fixed... 

Can someone please help me troubleshoot this?

Can I have a short caused by burning something up? Is there something I should check next?

What am I missing? please help!



ouch


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## Mickey

I'll take a stab at your problem. I'm having some problems understanding your comments.

* What's the difference in the 2 video's? 
* What does "sounded right" mean? Is this a question, a statement or ???
* Why did you replace the battery? Was it just due to the poor operation of the starter?

I'm not a fan of throwing money into a problem, i.e. parts swapping without knowing the cause.

Starter sounded weak in both video's. If that's the case I don't see where the replacing the Solenoid and ign comes in to the picture. It's possible the brushes are either bad or are stuck so they are not making good contact with the armature. I'm not sure what is powered from the 20A fuse, for sure it is not the starter.

Don't have any suggestions to offer regarding the discharge over night or clutch/trans issues.

Sounds to me like some decent trouble shooting is needed for much of the electrical system. Need to determine why the battery drain over night and why "nothing" when starter switch engaged after putting in a new battery.

So far I'm not sure why any of the items you replaced were replaced as you've not said anything as to why they were suspect. There may be multiple issues needing to be addressed but from what was said it's hard to tell.

Keep trying as trouble shooting skills take time to develop.


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## dangeroustoys56

Electrical issues are the worst ones to fix. Id check the battery cables over, maybe even replacing them with new ones ( battery cables do corrode) - check all the grounds/make sure metal is bare where they bolt- even where the new starter solenoid is ( thats a ground as well) - the ign switch could also be getting old ( ive had that happen) - so replacing it is a good idea.

I collect lawntractors, i was buying 180CCA batteries for some of them ( cheeper) - but after only a few months they started dying. Now im buying 400CCA plus batteries , mainly because they dont drain as fast ( more powerful) and add extra power to cranking motors over- specially with the few big twin cylenders i own need that extra power to kick em over- it wont hurt the electrical system using a higher amp battery.

About the drain- it could very well be the ign switch or the diode is bad in the charging system - the ign switch uses direct 12 volt power from the battery- why that line is fused - it powers the ign switch in order to start the tractor- now if the ign switch is bad, it can leak power thru and drain the battery. 

The diode is a one way electrical switch comming from the stator under the flywheel- sometimes they go bad, and allow power both in and out, draining the battery as well- actually you can buy one from radio shack pretty cheep ( look for a 12volt type) in the electronic builders section.


As for the shift issue, MTD transaxles arent the highest quality - they are full of bennonite grease and can absorb water/condensation easily causing corrosion inside. First thing id check is the shift pin ( where the forward /neutral /reverse lever goes in)- this can get rust and debris on it- id use some pb blaster and a wire brush to clean it off. another thing is your brakes could be seized on - being aluminum, they corrode very easily - spray the bolts ( near the case ) with pb blaster a few times, steel and aluminum dont mix- try not to break a bolt off inside the trans case- be careful breaking them loose. After so long, the steel pins in the caliper will seize up- put the caliper on a hard flat surface and use a hammer to pound the pins out, clean em up and lightly coat all the steel pieces with never seize. Probably the hardest part might be getting the wheels off, being a press fit on the axles- coating the axle with never seize will help them come again the next time.


If that still doesnt do it, then it might be time to crack the trans axle open, only thing to be wary of is the detent ball on the shift pin- theres no springs inside or any other surprises.


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## OHfishing

I took back my 180 cca battery , and replaced it with a 400 cca battery.... turned the key....still nothing...

Then I picked up and installed the new ignition and it now works!!

However I now know I have a bad starter..... 

It turns super fast... but the part with the teeth does not raise to engage the flywheel ... it just makes a whole lot of noise spinning ...

So Im happy the new ignition allows me to crank it over.... now I just need a new starter


Im hoping that once I finally get it running....the neutral problem just goes away when I start it and put it in gear...

I will hopefully have a new starter this weekend....

Thanks guys for helping ....wish me luck


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## Hoodoo Valley

I might be wrong and likely am, but it sounds as though the solonoid is bad and that the starter is fine. The solonoid is what moves the (bendix) gear into contact with the flywheel......Someone weigh in on this...........


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## OHfishing

The solenoid is brand spanking new....


the starter was working but appeared to be weak or have drag..... I hope im right as my wife is dropping it off today to be looked at and possibly replaced


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## dangeroustoys56

You can just replace the whole engagement gear end - its cheeper then a whole new starter- i know Napa sells the whole assembly. 

You just need a vice , hammer and small punch set- theres a roll pin that holds the whole end assembly on , id douse it in PB blaster and gently tap it out, replace the end, and reassemble it - i use a lil dab of never seize on the roll pin and shaft end to make it come out easier the next time. Ive replaced a ton of them.


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## OHfishing

Thanks guys!!!

Running now !

Im bookmarking this place!!! 


thanks again


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## stevestandfell

Try adjusting your valves, there are videos on how to do it, it's very easy. Mine had the same problem as yours, I adjusted the valves and it stars up and runs like new.


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## spankey1473

My LT-14 does the same exact thing as described by the thread starter. Brand new battery and next day seems dead. I can jump it and once it's running after shut down, fires right back up.

It feels like there's peanut butter in the crank case, it will crank very slow almost like it's seized. Sometimes it clicks and then it will slowly move and then crank. When I jump it, it spins fast and fires right up. Put a brand new battery in it this season and same thing. Nothing at first then jump it.

It's almost as if it's piston lock if that makes sense and the regular battery can't turn it over. Might have to look into the valve adjustment scenario.


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## D-vannoy

I have a L-13 cruisematic. I was riding my mower out of backyard and heard loud pop now when I push in clutch/brake it won't stop and I can't change speeds, can you help


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## spankey1473

D-vannoy said:


> I have a L-13 cruisematic. I was riding my mower out of backyard and heard loud pop now when I push in clutch/brake it won't stop and I can't change speeds, can you help



Sounds like your drive belt broke. Does it still drive? If it does could be something else?


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## spankey1473

Well I just adjusted my valves on my LT-14 and they were way off. After proper adjustment the tractor fires up with a tap of the key! Before was nothing at key turn and would barely crank over. Even seems to run better also!
Thanks for the advice on the valve adjustment! I was going to buy a new mower next year but now think I'll get more out of this since doing this!
Awesome


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