# 3 point controls on my Grey market YanDeere.



## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

I have a question about these levers . I believe one is the raise/lower lever for the 3 point and one is draft. Can any give me the skinny on how they work. Also should the raise and lower lever return to the lowering position on its own or should it stay where its set too ? Thanks gurus


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> I have a question about these levers . I believe one is the raise/lower lever for the 3 point and one is draft. Can any give me the skinny on how they work. Also should the raise and lower lever return to the lowering position on its own or should it stay where its set too ? Thanks gurus


Good questions. 

I would only assume the 3PT raise/lower stays in place unless otherwise manually moved. If it's slipping to lower, then the friction disc/bushing needs to be replaced or tightened. 

Draft control lever typically moves to a depth and positional control. Not sure if your machine is a UFO draft control type or the old school method Yanmar had with the John Deeres. 

Winston and others may know more about draft control. My machine didn't come with that option. It does have the necessary mounting and ports for it though. 

What's with the lever against the seat? Is that a seat adjustment or something else?


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

bmaverick said:


> Good questions.
> 
> I would only assume the 3PT raise/lower stays in place unless otherwise manually moved. If it's slipping to lower, then the friction disc/bushing needs to be replaced or tightened.
> 
> ...


Thanks fore the reply. The lever next to the seat is a seat adjustment lever. 
As for the lift lever is the friction disc or bushing just under the fender ? Id love to be able to set height and leave it while using the loader or just driving across the property.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

what model is your tractor?


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

winston said:


> what model is your tractor?


From what I can tell its the Solis version of the Yanmar F395.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

with no information out there I would use common sense and follow the lever down to the pivot point expecting to find friction discs of some sort that could be adjusted to hold the lever at your desired setting. Maverick has already alluded to that. I doubt very seriously you will ever have a need for the draft control. There are numerous videos on youtube for draft control, probably none just like yours but much to be learned by watching some of them.

This might well cover your engine.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

winston said:


> with no information out there I would use common sense and follow the lever down to the pivot point expecting to find friction discs of some sort that could be adjusted to hold the lever at your desired setting. Maverick has already alluded to that. I doubt very seriously you will ever have a need for the draft control. There are numerous videos on youtube for draft control, probably none just like yours but much to be learned by watching some of them.
> 
> This might well cover your engine.


Thank you !!! You guys have been very informative and helpful. I really do appreciate it. This stuff is so new to me. I found where to set the tension for the lever but now I have a different issue.(of course) I cant say for sure but I think the valve has an internal leak because then I put the lever in one spot after a few seconds the implement will drop very slightly and then it goes back up to where its set. Its almost as if it knows it went down slightly and corrects the slight drop on its own. One day I'll get all this sorted out. I'm hoping its more of a bad o-ring or seal issue then anything major. I am supposed to be off work between Xmas and NYE. Hopefully I get a chance to remove it and see if it can be repaired.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Thank you !!! You guys have been very informative and helpful. I really do appreciate it. This stuff is so new to me. I found where to set the tension for the lever but now I have a different issue.(of course) I cant say for sure but I think the valve has an internal leak because then I put the lever in one spot after a few seconds the implement will drop very slightly and then it goes back up to where its set. Its almost as if it knows it went down slightly and corrects the slight drop on its own. One day I'll get all this sorted out. I'm hoping its more of a bad o-ring or seal issue then anything major. I am supposed to be off work between Xmas and NYE. Hopefully I get a chance to remove it and see if it can be repaired.


Oh, the way you describe the goes down and then comes back up on it's own is a UFO function. Yes, it's a draft control being applied. 

Sure both Winston and I gave you the manuals, but those are for Service Repairs and not the OPS Manual that would tell you so much more on how to work the UFO or even turn the feature off for the Yanmar to work like a normal 3PT machine. 

I'll poke around in the higher F-Series and see if something for an OPS manual is closer to the F395. I know that Tractor-Ernie has a F235 and we've translated the UFO to English out of that OPS manual.  

Does your machine have this setup? This is an F235.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Thank you !!! You guys have been very informative and helpful. I really do appreciate it. This stuff is so new to me. I found where to set the tension for the lever but now I have a different issue.(of course) I cant say for sure but I think the valve has an internal leak because then I put the lever in one spot after a few seconds the implement will drop very slightly and then it goes back up to where its set. Its almost as if it knows it went down slightly and corrects the slight drop on its own. One day I'll get all this sorted out. I'm hoping its more of a bad o-ring or seal issue then anything major. I am supposed to be off work between Xmas and NYE. Hopefully I get a chance to remove it and see if it can be repaired.


Oh, did I get you this in the last thread? The F395 is Kukje+Yanmar made in Korea.  

And on Page-29, translated via Yandex, I see this info.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

bmaverick said:


> Oh, the way you describe the goes down and then comes back up on it's own is a UFO function. Yes, it's a draft control being applied.
> 
> Sure both Winston and I gave you the manuals, but those are for Service Repairs and not the OPS Manual that would tell you so much more on how to work the UFO or even turn the feature off for the Yanmar to work like a normal 3PT machine.
> 
> ...


No thats a completely different machine then mine. Mine must be much older as I do not have any of those buttons or knobs.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Thank you !!! You guys have been very informative and helpful. I really do appreciate it. This stuff is so new to me. I found where to set the tension for the lever but now I have a different issue.(of course) I cant say for sure but I think the valve has an internal leak because then I put the lever in one spot after a few seconds the implement will drop very slightly and then it goes back up to where its set. Its almost as if it knows it went down slightly and corrects the slight drop on its own. One day I'll get all this sorted out. I'm hoping its more of a bad o-ring or seal issue then anything major. I am supposed to be off work between Xmas and NYE. Hopefully I get a chance to remove it and see if it can be repaired.


Ah, you need to read page 37. This would tell you how it all works together or independently.










*Oh, want to read that in English ???*






Translate text from photos from English and other languages – Yandex.Translate


Use Yandex Translate to translate text from photos into Czech, English, French, German, Italian, Polish, Portuguese, Russian, Spanish, Turkish, Ukrainian and other languages (only available when you are online).




translate.yandex.com





Depending on how I zoom in or zoom out, Yandex gives translation clues.

Top left image close up - - -










zoomed back - - -










zoomed to the low right of image - - -










So, it's a little time involved, but not much. I use the snip tool and just paste into the Yandex. Then snip and past here. 

Lets see how the next image on the left middle works as image (1) - - -
make sure you give a little extra white space around the Japanese characters, else it translates really funny too. haha

Hey, is your machine missing the decal on the smaller lever in this image ????









hahah, yes, You can do it. Also that smaller lever looks to have a wingnut to lock the Draft Control in place. hmmmm

image (2) - - -










image (3)










Oil pressure is really hydraulic oil pressure, not engine oil pressure.
Yandex also switch to Chinese to English above due to being zoomed out too far. Thus the funky translation.

I'll need to zoom in to translate again.
Way better, kept to Japanese to English this time. 









This is a very common control for 90% of tractor brands. The Balp is really BALL KNOB.

And the words below it - - -


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

I'll take a bunch of cockpit pictures of my goofball tractor and post them all here and maybe you gurus can ID some of my features and controls. I really like this oddball tractor I just need to get some things sorted out.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

image (4) - - -

So funny reading it.










Yes, lets zoom in to the top. I have to also take the pre-translated image to MS-Paint and cut-out the tractor image lines away from the Japanese to properly translate. Those artifacts mess up the translation.










lots of cleanup on that lever word.










Still below, it's funky translated.










ok, when this gets funky, I then use the 2nd translator. it's a bit trickier to use. 
Translate an image 
Goole output
*When using the external connection 11, set the replacement lever to the "outside" position and pipe the valve of the work machine to the external collection BT1.*
Bing Output
*When using the external connection 11, put the replacement lever in the "external" position and pipe the valve of the construction machine to the external yield BT1.*

So, that's all of page 37 translated.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> I'll take a bunch of cockpit pictures of my goofball tractor and post them all here and maybe you gurus can ID some of my features and controls. I really like this oddball tractor I just need to get some things sorted out.


Oh, even though my machine is a UTDA total restore, I had to find images of the original YM2610 on the web, hunt for those Japanese decals and translate them. I know the PTO was multi-speed and what the speeds were at 2600rpms with the engine, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out what they were in less engine rpms until I read a Japanese blog on the YM3810 and how to interpret the RPM-Hour Meter gauge. It was so simple! 

So yeah, it's a learning curve. The John Deere sibling didn't have the multi-speed PTO, so I had to figure that out. The PowerShift and 'live' PTO was easy.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

bmaverick said:


> Ah, you need to read page 37. This would tell you how it all works together or independently.
> 
> View attachment 76172
> 
> ...





bmaverick said:


> Oh, even though my machine is a UTDA total restore, I had to find images of the original YM2610 on the web, hunt for those Japanese decals and translate them. I know the PTO was multi-speed and what the speeds were at 2600rpms with the engine, but I couldn't for the life of me figure out what they were in less engine rpms until I read a Japanese blog on the YM3810 and how to interpret the RPM-Hour Meter gauge. It was so simple!
> 
> So yeah, it's a learning curve. The John Deere sibling didn't have the multi-speed PTO, so I had to figure that out. The PowerShift and 'live' PTO was easy.



Man you really are an asset to this forum. I wont have internet when I get home today so Monday when I get back to work I will post a bunch of pictures and maybe between your manuals and my pictures and the translator app we can get this stuff figured out. I knew it would take me a while to figure all this out but not this long.lol. I hate to give up on this tractor as I really like it and runs runs really well especially now that the FEL is working perfectly as well as everything else besides the 3 point controls which very well could just be me not knowing what I am doing. Plus well....I already bought it


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Your 3 point is leaking down at some location and when it drops a hair the control valve picks it back up to the set point. Most times the leak is at the lift piston o-ring but it could be in the control valve also. Try closing your lock valve (slow drop) and see if the lift stays at the set point. If so, your lift piston will not be the culpret. But do not try operating the 3 point with the lock valve closed.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Man you really are an asset to this forum. I wont have internet when I get home today so Monday when I get back to work I will post a bunch of pictures and maybe between your manuals and my pictures and the translator app we can get this stuff figured out. I knew it would take me a while to figure all this out but not this long.lol. I hate to give up on this tractor as I really like it and runs runs really well especially now that the FEL is working perfectly as well as everything else besides the 3 point controls which very well could just be me not knowing what I am doing. Plus well....I already bought it




You bought a foreign tractor, so there are some learnings to be had. I'm on the Polish/Russian/Ukraine tractor forum called Fermer.ru we have barrels of laughs when doing the translation because I can't figure out what is says going from Japanese to the other 3 languages to proof it. I got a few guys who are helping over there now. AND, they use the phone app version and can translate the decals on the machine in a heart beat now!


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

winston said:


> Your 3 point is leaking down at some location and when it drops a hair the control valve picks it back up to the set point. Most times the leak is at the lift piston o-ring but it could be in the control valve also. Try closing your lock valve (slow drop) and see if the lift stays at the set point. If so, your lift piston will not be the culpret. But do not try operating the 3 point with the lock valve closed.


Thank you !!! I'll give that a try when I get home from work and report back on Monday.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

Sheeesh I found some info weather its the lift cylinder seal or the valve and I am wondering what one is best case scenario. Seems like both are quit a bit of work. I guess once I close the valve under the seat we will know .lol


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Sheeesh, I found some info whether [sic] its the lift cylinder seal or the valve and I am wondering what one is best case scenario. Seems like both are quit a bit of work. I guess once I close the valve under the seat we will know .lol


Winston is a great help in matters like this. I love to fact find, he likes to run it thru the processes. 

Keep us posted. We are sharing your experiences.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

Ok Gurus I did not get a chance to put the box blade up and experiment with the knob under the seat. My son unhooked it so him and my father in law could begin replacing the bushings on the blade. Which I am not complaining about they are just trying to help since I'm working 6 days a week right now. I did manage to get some pictures of the controls on my tractor. I was also wrong the lever next to the seat is not a seat adjustment. It operates the remotes on the back.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Ok Gurus I did not get a chance to put the box blade up and experiment with the knob under the seat. My son unhooked it so him and my father in law could begin replacing the bushings on the blade. Which I am not complaining about they are just trying to help since I'm working 6 days a week right now. I did manage to get some pictures of the controls on my tractor. I was also wrong the lever next to the seat is not a seat adjustment. It operates the remotes on the back.


Hmmm. Some of the image don't make sense due to being so close and not knowing placement on the F395. 

Hoye did list the F395 as a machine to avoid. Very weird because the engine isn't that rare. 
Yanmar tractor models to avoid. (hoyetractor.com)

Originally, your machine looked like this. 


















I noticed on the web that the F395 without cab matches your setup and controls. The F395 with closed cab has all UFO electronic controls for the same model. This is something I recently discovered in searching these F-FX 3-digit numbered machines.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Ok Gurus I did not get a chance to put the box blade up and experiment with the knob under the seat. My son unhooked it so him and my father in law could begin replacing the bushings on the blade. Which I am not complaining about they are just trying to help since I'm working 6 days a week right now. I did manage to get some pictures of the controls on my tractor. I was also wrong the lever next to the seat is not a seat adjustment. It operates the remotes on the back.


In the YD2 image, I noticed your machine has the multi-speed PTO H-selector. Do keep it in PTO selection-1 for the time being. We can discuss how this operates later going forwards.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

bmaverick said:


> In the YD2 image, I noticed your machine has the multi-speed PTO H-selector. Do keep it in PTO selection-1 for the time being. We can discuss how this operates later going forwards.


Will do thank you for keeping me out of trouble!! I guess we can cross that bridge when I get a brush hog. 

I need to find out whats bleeding down on the dang ole three point hydraulics . I guess once it put the box blade back on and close the knob it will tell me what the issue is between either the piston seal or the valve. 

The only difference I see on that one pictured compared to mine is I don't have the lever on the left side of the steering wheel. I have the one on the right that sets throttle but not the left . 

MAN THANK YOU SO MUCH !!! This sight has been a huge blessing you both have been awesome.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Alisha322 said:


> Great 👍I'm new here


Hmmmmm!


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

Hoping to be able to get back on this this soon . Our heater crapped out which is still not repaired yet and then the holidays and the wuhan flu blew through my house like a hurricane and turned everything upside down. Hey at least we got the antibodies now .lol.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Hoping to be able to get back on this this soon . Our heater crapped out which is still not repaired yet and then the holidays and the wuhan flu blew through my house like a hurricane and turned everything upside down. Hey at least we got the antibodies now .lol.


Oh, don't let people fool you about the antibodies. Your immune system has life long memory defense now in the T-cells. The same T-cells that protect you for life after recovering from the chicken pox, mumps, measles, etc.

From the NIH. That most politicians will never quote from, nor Dr. F, nor the CDC.

National Institutes of Health is the primary agency of the United States government responsible for biomedical and public health research. It was founded in the late 1880s and is now part of the United States Department of Health and Human Services.

NIH says there is long term, long lasting immunity once recovered. Even better than a vax.  So you and others are real winners!









Immune T Cells May Offer Lasting Protection Against COVID-19


Much of the study on the immune response to SARS-CoV-2, the novel coronavirus that causes COVID-19, has focused on the production of antibodies. But, in fact, immune cells known as memory T cells a…




directorsblog.nih.gov





The people with hidden immunity against Covid-19

_T cells are a kind of immune cell, whose main purpose is to identify and kill invading pathogens or infected cells. It does this using proteins on its surface, which can bind to proteins on the surface of these impostors. Each T cell is highly specific – there are trillions of possible versions of these surface proteins, which can each recognize a different target. Because T cells can hang around in the blood for years after an infection, they also contribute to the immune system’s “long-term memory” and allow it to mount a faster and more effective response when it’s exposed to an old foe. _

Recall the Tide laundry commercials that said, in order to get protein stains out, you need to use protein. It's on that same level.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

bmaverick said:


> Oh, don't let people fool you about the antibodies. Your immune system has life long memory defense now in the T-cells. The same T-cells that protect you for life after recovering from the chicken pox, mumps, measles, etc.
> 
> From the NIH. That most politicians will never quote from, nor Dr. F, nor the CDC.
> 
> ...



Oh yeah I'm with you all the way !!!


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

Ok so still haven't got to diagnose the dang ole issue of the 3 point dropping a bit and coming back up. The bushings were all wrong for the box blade and its sitting in limbo right now . I think I'm just going to try to find the time to hang it on the 3 point and do the close the valve test and see what happens. I cant use it until the bushings get straightened out but I cant at least put the weight of it on the 2 point for diagnosis . 
On another note I have been using the tractor a lot. The FEL is sooo darn handy we are getting a little farm stand together and I have been swamped with that and my regular job as well as getting estimates for solar. Trying to get my wifes Tahoe to pass the emissions test and trying to learn about the heat pump that heats our home. Turns out heat pumps are pretty cool once you get a bit of understanding on how they work.


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## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

TractorRookie said:


> Ok so still haven't got to diagnose the dang ole issue of the 3 point dropping a bit and coming back up. The bushings were all wrong for the box blade and its sitting in limbo right now . I think I'm just going to try to find the time to hang it on the 3 point and do the close the valve test and see what happens. I cant use it until the bushings get straightened out but I cant at least put the weight of it on the 2 point for diagnosis .
> On another note I have been using the tractor a lot. The FEL is sooo darn handy we are getting a little farm stand together and I have been swamped with that and my regular job as well as getting estimates for solar. Trying to get my wifes Tahoe to pass the emissions test and trying to learn about the heat pump that heats our home. Turns out heat pumps are pretty cool once you get a bit of understanding on how they work.



Heat pumps are great for cooling but not so much so for heating.....They were designed for warmer climate use....

I can't remember if you said what part of the country you are in or not.....

As for solar, are you trying to run the entire place with solar or just as an add on to the "grid power"?


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

unsquidly said:


> Heat pumps are great for cooling but not so much so for heating.....They were designed for warmer climate use....
> 
> I can't remember if you said what part of the country you are in or not.....
> 
> As for solar, are you trying to run the entire place with solar or just as an add on to the "grid power"?


I am in Northern California. The climate is pretty mild. I live in a rural area and there’s just no way I could afford to run a propane heater since we have no natural gas service. I am going to add a wood stove in my house and in the shop. I have a bunch of trees to burn that should provide a few years worth of fires before I have to buy any wood .The solar will be a rather large add on the grid system. I have two houses and a shop to provide power for. I will be converting the Tankless hot water heater over to electric once the solar comes in. Seems my family really enjoys long hot showers and it’s killing my propane use.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

winston said:


> Your 3 point is leaking down at some location and when it drops a hair the control valve picks it back up to the set point. Most times the leak is at the lift piston o-ring but it could be in the control valve also. Try closing your lock valve (slow drop) and see if the lift stays at the set point. If so, your lift piston will not be the culpret. But do not try operating the 3 point with the lock valve closed.


Ok so I lifted it up and closed the knob all the way and it still lowered down. Does that mean I need to rebuild the valve ?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

No, it means you need to reseal the lift piston. The f395 is a newer model and no manuals available so bear in mind I could be wrong in my thinking. All of the older ym series and all the F series that I am aware of have a simple o-ring on the lift piston and a teflon backup ring. I can only guess the F395 has a similar piston seal. I am attaching a picture from a ym336 ;manual showing the lift housing and components. #33 is the lift piston. Your F395 will have something similar.

I will also add yanmar pretty much uses the P & G series o-rings, Japanese metric. Notice the o-ring on the drawing picture is a p70.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

winston said:


> No, it means you need to reseal the lift piston. The f395 is a newer model and no manuals available so bear in mind I could be wrong in my thinking. All of the older ym series and all the F series that I am aware of have a simple o-ring on the lift piston and a teflon backup ring. I can only guess the F395 has a similar piston seal. I am attaching a picture from a ym336 ;manual showing the lift housing and components. #33 is the lift piston. Your F395 will have something similar.



NOOOOOO !!!! 😢
I guess its time to get intimate with this dang thing.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

Question guys ?? If I take it apart I'm sure I can find some O-rings that will fit. I understand that some have a Teflon deal in there too which might be hard to find. Do any of you think I could change the O-rings and reuse the the Teflon thing?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

TractorRookie said:


> Question guys ?? If I take it apart I'm sure I can find some O-rings that will fit. I understand that some have a Teflon deal in there too which might be hard to find. Do any of you think I could change the O-rings and reuse the the Teflon thing?


I did on my old 2002D. I would be careful to get the correct o-ring. Probably a Japanese metric.


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

winston said:


> I did on my old 2002D. I would be careful to get the correct o-ring. Probably a Japanese metric.



Thank you !!


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

TractorRookie said:


> Thank you !!


And not any o-ring works, make sure it's fluid type compatible. If not, the wrong material will disintegrate quickly leaving a gooey mess behind. See the helpful list below.  





__





Fluid Compatibility - O Rings West






oringswest.com


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## TractorRookie (Dec 6, 2021)

bmaverick said:


> And not any o-ring works, make sure it's fluid type compatible. If not, the wrong material will disintegrate quickly leaving a gooey mess behind. See the helpful list below.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Always keeping me out of trouble ..Thank you


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