# 1950 Ford 8N.



## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

I am stumped. The ford won't start. Then it does and runs fine for a minute then stops, won't start. Then it does and runs fine for a minute or so. It has spark, electrical checks out. I swooped the new carb in and out. I'm thinking it's gas. I don't know. Any thoughts?


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

You got enough fuel in tank?

Open valve alll the way for reserve fuel.

China carbs seem to have float level issues.

Still have factory metal line from tank to carb .....Its gravity flow so line needs to be downhill all the way.


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## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

Thanks.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Is the factory Glass filter/bowl still on the bottom of tank?

Is fuel dripping out of carb when it dies?

sounds like not enough or too much fuel.

There is a drain plug on bottom of carb......loosen and drain..possible moisture that will play havoc.


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## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

Just some history. I bought this tractor after a tree fell on it. After a bunch of new parts, it started with no problems and ran like a top, except it didn't like going up steep inclines, read it might be a float problem with the cheap carb I bought, since they where cheap I bought another and put it on. ran great, started every time, still didn't like inclines. Read that if you bend the bloats up slightly it might stop the problem. So I adjusted the floats on the first carb, installed it and that's when the problem started, it stalled and I couldn't get it to start. Swopped the carb with the one that wasn't altered, still wouldn't start. Drained the gas took hood off, electrical system checked out, hooked a external tank and it started then stopped. And that's where I am now. When you mentioned moisture, I've been using the gas that was in the tank. I didn't see any water in the bowl but my eye sights not that good. I'm going to get different gas and give it another shoot. Thanks for your input.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Loosen that drain plug ....its easier than pulling carb.
I assume the china carbs have this plug but I've never seen one.

Have you checked the screen in the fuel line?
Its part of the fitting If I remember right.....the one that feeds fuel to carb.

If it starts ...runs ..dies.

Still 6v or been converted?

Look at distributer cap for moisture...its gonna be 100 here soon not sure where your at.
just a random thought.
Coils can act up as they heat up.......hence the 6v/12v ???


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

How old is that gas?


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## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

I believe you answered your own question "So I adjusted the floats on the first carb, installed it and that's when the problem started", so I would drop back and punt.
Then I'm thinking "tree fell on it", a line got bent, as Duke said, gravity flow which would apply whether tractor is going up or down hill.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

So, Mediocrates, it looks as though you have some top notch info here from the other members.

The biggie is condensation or junk in the fuel. THAT originates in the tank and then gravity flows it out and to the sediment bowl (I have a 9N, but it should be the same). ((Could the bowl be filled with almost all water?)) Shut off the fuel, drop the glass bowl, pour all that gas into a clean, white coffee cup and look for sediment (usually these tractors are filled from gas cans and junk just magically appears in ALL gas cans). Let the fuel sit for 5 or 10 seconds and look for any separated water in that gas as well.

Out of the sediment bowl the fuel goes to the brass carb fuel intake fitting. As the line goes into the carb (and inside the brass "L" fitting) there should be a second screen in that brass fitting - carefully check for junk that somehow made it to that screen and then, just for grins, open the tank fuel valve and see if there is proper fuel flow coming out of the fuel line. (great call there on that possible tree induced kink in the fuel line!)

Then the fuel flow is regulated by the float to go through the float "orfice" and fill the carb fuel bowl to a set depth (the last junk catcher spot). Of course at that point the carb does it's magic, mixes the fuel with air and *VROOM!* 
(Yeah, you knew all that, but that new Ford tractor owner, young William, is reading this way over there at his house, and he doesn't have your years of keen knowledge and experience behind him. 👨‍🔧 I think you'll agree that a learning experience is always a good thing.)

Any of the 3 settling points could have junk or water in them so ya' gotta check em (((most importantly the sediment bowl))). Going up an incline might allow just a little trapped water to be sucked up to kill your mighty Ford's forward progress.

Now - 'bout the new carbs - If, against all odds, your shiny, Aluminum, *Scrap Metal* 'Chinesium' carbs do now work then you're (unexpectedly) in high cotton. If there is no change then it's time to thoroughly !!!!! clean (and rebuild if needed) *that old carb*, remount it, tune it in and *VROOM!*

The shiny Chineseium carbs for these Ford beauties are almost always NOT well reverse engineered (Yeah, Cloned) to the 'regular' standards that we all knew back in the olden days. Maybe the engineer that did the work was having a bad week. If you can get *that old carb* spotless inside and back in service then those 2 (count 'em, TWO!) shiny carbs will make impressive, matching, twin lamps for your desk there in the barn.

Best of luck, Mediocrates. We're all pullin' for your success. Let us know how you did.

Joe


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## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

Joe.S.AK said:


> So, Mediocrates, it looks as though you have some top notch info here from the other members.
> 
> The biggie is condensation or junk in the fuel. THAT happens in the tank and then gravity flows it to the sediment bowl (I have a 9N, but it should be the same). ((Could the bowl be filled with almost all water?)) Shut off the fuel, drop the glass bowl, pour all that gas into a clean, white coffee cup and look for sediment (usually these tractors are filled from gas cans and junk just magically appears in gas cans). Let the fuel sit for 5 or 10 seconds and look for any separated water in that gas as well.
> 
> ...


thank you all for your input. I will get back to it after I do my chores (honey do list). I'll keep yous posted. Again thanks.


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## Runser (6 mo ago)

Joe.S.AK said:


> So, Mediocrates, it looks as though you have some top notch info here from the other members.
> 
> The biggie is condensation or junk in the fuel. THAT happens in the tank and then gravity flows it to the sediment bowl (I have a 9N, but it should be the same). ((Could the bowl be filled with almost all water?)) Shut off the fuel, drop the glass bowl, pour all that gas into a clean, white coffee cup and look for sediment (usually these tractors are filled from gas cans and junk just magically appears in gas cans). Let the fuel sit for 5 or 10 seconds and look for any separated water in that gas as well.
> 
> ...


Joe’s right. My shiny new carb turned out to actually impede the flow of gas. So cleaned the old one and away we went! Ditto his point about junk somewhere in gas line.


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## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

Runser said:


> Joe’s right. My shiny new carb turned out to actually impede the flow of gas. So cleaned the old one and away we went! Ditto his point about junk somewhere in gas line.


Well I ordered a rebuilt original carburetor. When it comes in and I get my chores done I’ll be installing it. Thanks


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## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

Well! I installed the rebuilt carb, new sparkplugs, new gas and fuel line, it started, I let it run for a minute, turned it off and it would not restart. what a conundrum.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Hey *Mediocrates *- 

*It might be just as simple as a bad connection in the ignition switch.* Check that out because without that working it'll be mighty quiet in the barn for you.

Oh --- are Yous Guyz in the Philly area? 1st 19 years of my life I spent in the country just north of the city - and then I 'scaped to Anchorage. It took me a long time to say "water" instead of "wudder". 😂

Joe


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

I've had rotors go bad...I know ..it sounds dumb.

Next time it starts...drive it.

Fuel line still metal or is it rubber...could be collapsed if rubber.


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## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

Joe.S.AK said:


> Hey *Mediocrates *-
> 
> *It might be just as simple as a bad connection in the ignition switch.* Check that out because without that working it'll be mighty quiet in the barn for you.
> 
> ...


I live in the metropolis of Tylersport which is about halfway between Philadelphia and Allentown. Yes I say wider.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Well Giddi-Yup there Medi and lets hear how youse doin on fixing that beauty of Ford Engineering. I know the area well - Abington Twp near Fox Chase.


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## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

Joe.S.AK said:


> Well Giddi-Yup there Medi and lets hear how youse doin on fixing that beauty of Ford Engineering. I know the area well - Abington Twp near Fox Chase.


Thank God, it's a Sunday miracle. I started the tractor it ran, I shut it off, restarted it. This repeated several times. And there was much rejoicing.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

What'd you do - wiggle a wire or two? Full moon come into play? Maybe turn the key on?  

Well done, whatever you did.

Joe


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## Mediocrates (5 mo ago)

Well, the planets must have gone out of alignment. It no work again. I even threatened it with a bigger hammer. I'm taking it to the doctors. Maybe it has Covid.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

😟 🥴 💊

Well, the probabilities favor fuel or spark - but with good fuel flow from the fuel line *before* the carb and all that electrical checking and wiggling it's got to be something weird like a poor wire contact. The randomness is the real head scratcher. Possibly something loose (say in the distributor) or a loose connection somehow grounding or creating an open in a hot wire somewhere. Coil is a common thought - but -------------

I have to assume that the wire and it's connections from the coil to the distributor have been checked a lot. Arcing at a loose or broken connection somewhere could be the culprit - but those are really hard to diagnose without bridging wires (one by one) to check for internal breaks. The interaction with that tree in the past could have broken a wire somewhere - but so hard to find quirky things like that.

You never actually mentioned exactly what year your beauty is? Since you posted here we all assume a 9N, a 2N or an 8N. Is she a front or side distrib? Also, is she a 6 or 12 volt converted? When she does start is there good throttle response? Does she run strong until you shut her off? All else being equal I would temporarily bypass that ignition switch and evaluate the results there. After all she ran before you shut her off and then wouldn't re-start. The turning off and then on of that key switch seems to be the last point everything worked. 

Let us know how the Docs do on her - it could be something really easy - or - .......................

Joe


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## JB7 (4 mo ago)

Mediocrates said:


> Well I ordered a rebuilt original carburetor. When it comes in and I get my chores done I’ll be installing it. Thanks


Hi, JB7 here,

Where did you buy your rebuilt carb from. I need to get one or at least a rebuilt kit that isn't Chinese. If you would provide name and contact info of your rebuilt carb supplier, I and our 8N Ford would be grateful. Thanks.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Some things from China aren't bad, bad, bad - the 'trick' is to research and then choose wisely instead of just blindly grabbing something.

Dan and Rachel Grinel have earned a lot of respect over time and I, personally, use them for supplies and parts. I'm sure there are others - the burden is for yous to find your preferred vendors.

So, give them a look-see and then begin a comparison on your own starting there.









J&D Productions, Inc.


J&D Productions, Inc.



farmtractorrepair.com





Joe


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## JB7 (4 mo ago)

Joe.S.AK said:


> Some things from China aren't bad, bad, bad - the 'trick' is to research and then choose wisely instead of just blindly grabbing something.
> 
> Dan and Rachel Grinel have earned a lot of respect over time and I, personally, use them for supplies and parts. I'm sure there are others - the burden is for yous to find your preferred vendors.
> 
> ...


Thanks Joe. Will check them out.


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