# Need Tractor Repair Central Texas



## StupidDog

I have an F18d. It is a grey tractor. It sounds like it has a rod knocking. Can someone point me in the direction of a tractor repair shop or person in central texas. I can't seem to find anybody that does tractor repair around Austin.

Thanks
Chuck


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## Live Oak

Hang in there Chuck. I am sure Mark777 will see this post and have some good advice.


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## mark777

Chuck,

I’ve read this and your other post concerning the problems with the less than scrupulous “Remanufactured Yanmar’ dealers and what’s happening with your tractor. Rather than go on and on about Canton, TX being the hub of these poor substitutes for a genuine and good used Yanmar I’ll just say many (now hundreds) like yourself, with no mechanical experience, have had to take a crash course in diesel tractor repair…just to recover their initial investment and have their tractor in good working order.

It is the sale of these reconditioned units that have given the honest dealers a black eye. Many dealers will not touch or attempt a repair to your tractor for fear of undiagnosed problems that are usually not related to the original mechanical pre-failure.

Your on the cusp of a catastrophic mechanical failure, so using your tractor under any load will only further the internal damage from loose and warn engine components. However the repairs are fairly basic, not over complicated and probably solved by inspecting, measuring and replacing rod and main bearings. The design of these engines are so simple that anyone that’s repaired internal problems in a small lawn mower engine is qualified to repair a Yanmar diesel. No Kidding!

If you’re too uncomfortable taking on the challenge maybe a friend or relative with some mechanical skills would be willing to help tear into the engine. If not, the next best step (and most expensive) is to have an independent diesel repair shop work on the tractor. You can still remain the ’middle man’ and supply parts through one of the following dealers, plus these dealers should provide you with all the torque values for the rod caps, main bearing caps and cylinder head torque and sequence or offer a reasonably priced manual for the repairs.

256-773-9951 Fredricks Equipment Inc. - (http://fredricksequipment.com) 
205-646-3033 http://www.peq.com/ Parker equipment, Thorsby, AL
Len Sheaffer - Sheaffer town and country tractor www.sheaftractor.net
Aaron Murry - http://www.HoyeTractor.com

Let me know if there is anything I can help you with and keep us informed.

Mark


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## StupidDog

Mark,

Thanks for your reply.

I do have some mechanical experience in that I have rebuilt a couple of small block chevy's. This is my first experience with a diesel engine.

I quess the first thing I will do is hunt for a shop manual. And maybe get an more experienced machanic out to listen to it to tell me that indeed it is a rod knocking. Since diesel engines are so loud anyway I was wondering what do they sound like if say one of the cynlinders stops firing. It starts up and sounds fine for a minute then starts clanking and sounds like it is running on 2 cylinders.

Thanks for the dealer links
Chuck


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## mark777

Chuck, is it possible you have an injector going south on ya’? They will get loud and sound like a bag of marbles dancing on top of a piston! 

A simple but very effective trouble shooting method is to start and run tractor for a few minutes, idle low at 850-900 RPM, loosen an injector line fitting at the #1 cylinder injector (#1 cylinder is always at the rear or firewall side) and let the tractor stall. Re-tighten then Restart and proceed to the #2 cylinder fuel fitting and repeat the process. If all of the injectors stall the engine then you don’t have an injector problem…but if one injector with a loose fitting does NOT change the way your engine is operating, drop in RPM or stall the engine - That IS the problem injector. Easy Fix as you can replace, rebuild or often find a used one that will interchange with the 3TNB80-U engine.

If you can overhaul a SBC….then you may be over qualified to work on Yanmar engines  . Once you’ve removed all of the ancillary items attached to the engine your working with something about the size of a shoebox sitting on top of a small water melon. The ONLY thing I suggest you don’t do is open up and work on the fuel injection pump as there are more parts in there than a Swiss watch. It’s the only part that I automatically sub out to my pump ’guy’....Don't ask .

Here are some basic specifications for you F18D: 

F18D - 18 PTO & 21 Engine HP - 4WD - 3 CYL - 2180 #’s - Manufactured from‘84-? - Engine model number - 3TNB80-U

Mark

btw: I hope you can blow up the attached image and read my notes.


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## StupidDog

Thanks Mark!

I'll give that a try and let you know.

Chuck


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## Live Oak

Probably not the ideal repair but is it possible to access the crankshaft and rod bearings fron underneath the tractor with the engine still installed in the tractor frame Mark? 

I was thinking if the bearings and bearing surfaces are not in to bad a shape, it might be possible to clean up the rough areas with crocus cloth or some similar polishing cloth and replace the bearings. Pretty mush an "in frame rebuild" if you will.


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## mark777

Shouldn't be a problem Randy.

Just need to pull-drop the drive shaft and oil pan for access to the rod and main bearing caps. Removing the crank is a different story though...have to pull the engine. And LOL, you know what they say; if you've gone that far, might as well pull the head, check the guides, dress the valves and seats, check the bore and re-ring the bugger - good to go another 4-5K hours .

Hey Chuck, if you send me an email ([email protected]) I can probably dig up some parts book diagrams to help you out or at minimum have a look see what all is involved.

Mark


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## smoknsal

*F18D*

hey chuck, sent you a email a few days ago, got no reponse. just to let you know that i may might be able to help you. check your email for my contact info. i live in burnet for the winter, otherwise in NY in the summer. Seeya, Sal.


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## StupidDog

It seems to have healed itself. After setting up for a week I cannot get the thing to reproduce the noise it was making. I had changed out the fuel filter assembly and gas lines a few days before. It seem to run ok until I let my son use it, he let idle for a long time. Maybe I had air in one of the lines. I don't know, I think my kid just has this big black cloud that follows him around. The tractor always works fine when I'm using it by myself. But eveytime my kid gets around the thing, something breaks.

Thanks for yalls input though
SD


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## FL_Jerry

Good way to get out of work.... If they break your stuff then you don't let them near it and then there is no work, lol.

Anyway, when you change the oil, look for copper colored "dust" or bits in it. If you see any, you probably want to drop the pan and take a look.


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