# Craftsman snow thrower attachment



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Added snow thrower attachment to lawn tractor. Out of box, 5 hours needed for complete set up. The clearance when lifted was small, tearing up lawn when driving to shed. I recently added 16 inch tires from 15 inch tires adding enough clearance. Needed to adjust snow throwers bolts to allow unit to fully drop to ground.


----------



## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

Hey Robbie, Looks like you are ready!!! Nice set-up.............


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Actually, Robbie, there should be 3/8-1/2" clearance between the driveway surface,and the scraper bar. Set the skids down,to get this clearance.
The reason is,that it keeps it from snagging on cracks,etc. 
They were designed NOT to scrape. The small amount left,usually melts quickly,even without salt/melter .
If it were a gravel drive,the clearance would be set higher,to avoid chucking stones.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Thanks. All I need is snow... I will need to readjust skids.


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

By the way,..Welcome to the forum! Sorry I didn't say that,first!!


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Thank you, I enjoy reading others opinions and tips. Maybe someone like myself can get information from my posts.


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

One other thing you may want to do,is fill the rear tires with windshield washer fluid. It will add weight to the rear,for traction.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

I have 35 lb weights on each wheel and 65 lb on back. Total 135 lbs. plus a 5 gallon gas tank and then a 200 lb person on seat. Do you think I need more weight?


----------



## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

If you are working on flat to basically flat ground, You have more than enough weight with the chains. Keep in mind, You won't be pushing snow with your set-up. You will be displacing it by means of throwing it... As mentioned above, You shouldn't try scrapping to bare pavement so with chains and the weight you have described and flat to mainly flat ground, You should be fine. 

If you were trying to push with a plow, That would be an entirely different beast...


----------



## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Robbie- I've installed many of those same blowers on Ariens tractors that we sell at work. I've finally gotten it down to about an hour to get one out of the box and on the unit. Don't have to read the instructions anymore after how many I've done! They do an excellent job of blowing snow, and all the customers we have with them are extremely happy with how they perform. They aren't anywhere near the quality of the older Ariens tractor blowers from when they still built their own tractors, but then again, they are half the price. Many of the new Sears tractors are the same as the new Ariens ones because they are both built by American Yard Products (subsidiary of Husqvarna). The blower was built by Agri-Fab for Husqvarna/Sears/Ariens/etc.


About the only thing I don't like about them is the skid shoes on the sides. They have the slots for the bolts at different heights, so its very hard to get the shoe to sit flat on the ground while still cleaning the cement off reasonably. I mounted one we sold last year for the guy again, and with the shoes flat on the floor, the scraper bar sits about 3/4" or more off the ground. You have to tilt the shoes to get the head to drop to 3/8" or so of the ground. The guy would prefer it to scrape flush like his walk behind unit did. People in my town are pretty adamant that their driveways be completely clear after blowing. Even Ariens sets their scraper bars about 1/8-3/16" off the ground from the factory.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

I've always had my push blowers at ground level. The skid shoes on this unit are awkwardly large. But not smooth in any way. 
I am going to try to create a ski like bottom on the skid. I purchased some plexiglass type product on EBay. I don't even know if it will work, but will attach to skid plate that doesn't touch ground. Don't even know it it will crack in cold. Will attach photo when done for opinions.
As for snow thrower,Sears sells it to fit 2 different mowers, 917. Or 247 units. I was lucky because I did not need to change any pulleys or such. Out of box fit in my electric clutch 22HP Briggs VTwin. If it ever snows, I will let you how it performs. 
Question, do you find people tend to put in snow cabs, or choose not to? I really don't like Sears cab on market, looks cheap. 

Thanks


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Most of us would KILL for a cab ! LOL! 
It comes in handy,when the wind whips the snow back at you!


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Here is an attempt to make skid shoes not tear up grass or driveway. I cut strips of thick plastic and secured to bottom of pad. Secured one with rivits and the other with screws. With heat gun, molded to shape of pad. My only hope is they don't shatter with cold.


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Although it's a good job.that's ABS,so it will either wear too quickly,or break with the cold.
I would suggest going to Lowes,or Home depot.and checking on some 1/4" nylon straps.
nylon wears a bit better than ABS.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Thanks. That was my thought. A work in progress. My original plan was to create a ski like bottom but could not think of appropriate material. That is what makes this forum a good place to get ideas.


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Half the fun of working on these, is trying new things.
After checking on the nylon sheets,I find that it's VERY expensive( 1/2"x 12" x 12"=$50 !).
However,Poly ethylene is strong,has good abrasion resistance,and is a LOT less expensive( 1/2" x12" x 12" = $17 )
Here's a link : http://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...003=7867724&src=pla&cid=PLA-Google-PLA+-+Test

OR,you could try to find an old industrial container,etc.
A lot of improvements were because people try something new .
Keep at it,my friend.
By the way,have you had any snow,to try it out,yet ?


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

No snow yet, in Massachusetts. Cold right now. As much as I want to play, I am happy without snow.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Well first snow storm, 1/2 way through driveway, belt frays and snapped in half........ REALLY!!!! I am just beside myself.


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Check the pulley alignment,and make sure none of the pulleys feel like they're binding.
That's the usual cause of fraying belts.
Stay with it ,Robbie ! You'll get it set up "sweet",and become really good at mounting/dismounting it.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

And yes 1 to 2 feet snow expected Monday to Wednesday.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Purchased new belt, yes got 2 of them...,, 70.00 each. Sears will sell you the tractor at a discount, because they know they have you when it comes to items like this. I snow blowed from 930 am to 5pm without a slip belt. ? Defective belt the unit came with. Next year I get a cab.


----------



## OldGoatDJ (Mar 25, 2013)

*Craftsman cab*

I have the cloth/Plastic craftsman cab, (about $250). The plastic 'windows' wrinkle and it gets very hard to see. The Backside is wide open to the elements so it is cold driving with the wind. It is easy to install/remove but I am thinking of building a 'hard-sided' cab.

I have since attached a fabric and plastic backside and it is much warmer but some folks might be nervous about carbon monoxide in a closed cab.

Has anyone got plans for a cab that fits 2004-ish Craftsman lawn tractor?


----------



## rdr202 (Apr 5, 2010)

OldGoatDJ said:


> I have the cloth/Plastic craftsman cab, (about $250). The plastic 'windows' wrinkle and it gets very hard to see. The Backside is wide open to the elements so it is cold driving with the wind. It is easy to install/remove but I am thinking of building a 'hard-sided' cab.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I wouldn't worry about any build up in the cab there is still plenty of fresh air getting in. I closed in the back of mine last year it's much warmer less wind. 


Sent from my iPad using Tractor Forum


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

LOL! Sorry robbie0911,but you look like a mummy,in that pic!
Glad you got it working well.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Yes, no cab in that weather basically stinks. The neighbors loved me. 3 feet of snow, and they never left their house. I was rewarded. I came home from work at 9pm In Monday's storm, to find my driveway and walkway completely cleaned by my neighbor. A good deed doesn't go unnoticed.


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

Who needs a snow cab? NOS 100% melton wool Belgian Army greatcoat from 1949, and a pair of Swedish Army 100% melton wool over trousers from 1941, and I'm set! I put them outside for a half hour before I snow blow, so that way they remain cold and the snow just falls off when I jump up in the air and stomp when I land. 

snow cabs, _SNOW CABS!_ We don'ts needs no stinking snow cabs!

cheers,
bolillo


----------



## film495 (Nov 1, 2013)

I set the skid shoes on my blower at about 1/8" and I have a few humps and bumps and find it does not snag on them, once it snows the shoes depending on their size ride up on the snow just a little and add a little additional clearance. I have some aftermarket oversized shoes. I did hit a patch of lawn early in the season however and suck a good section of what was grass through my blower though - ha, live and learn. at least I can get out of my driveway and that's all I care about really.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Anyone know what the life expectancy is of a 5/8 x 114 belt is for this snow thrower? 3 storms, 2 belts now on 3rd belt. Getting costly to run this thing?


----------



## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

Are you running Kevlar belts or standard utility belts? As for the costs of the belts, I wouldn't purchase them from sears! You already know the size, Go on ebay or a place like ebay and you can save a ton of money for the belts. Just make sure they are Kevlar belts...

Don't get me wrong, I love Sears however, They charge out the gazoo for replacement parts which are standard items. Oil filters are one example. The same filter which costs $17.00 plus tax plus shipping with sears can be had for $ 10.00-13.00 to your door!!!!!!!

I just checked ebay and found multiple kevlar 5/8" x 114" belts ranging from $26.00-45.00 shipping included!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

robbie0911 said:


> Anyone know what the life expectancy is of a 5/8 x 114 belt is for this snow thrower? 3 storms, 2 belts now on 3rd belt. Getting costly to run this thing?


I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. I hate to play Captain Obvious here, but have you checked for odd pulley alignment, and do all the pulleys spin freely without signs of a failing pulley bearing? Are you loading up the blower excessively or is the belt rubbing some place? In my experience, belt shredders generally suffer from one or more of the aforementioned. It seems odd that it's going through belts so quickly. 

Despite being attached to a different tractor, your blower setup looks identical to mine. I didn't care for the way the blower drive belt flopped all about during operation, and I suspected it would be a belt shredder, but thus far, it's not given me a problem. I've probably only used it 8 or 9 times now or roughly 2 hours minimum - 3 hours maximum of blower operation. 

As I've stated, I was concerned that the belt might be an issue with the way it vibrated, and wondered if I'd have to add some idler pulleys. If I encounter the same trouble as you, that's what I'd try providing my Captain Obvious diagnosis eliminates the usual suspects. 

Good luck,
bolillo


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Thanks Obvious, but all seems to be lined up, yes Sears belts are 70.00 a piece. I purchased 2 because of the snow in Massachusetts and then ordered 2 online from different sites. The 20.00 belt is definitely a 20.00 belt. The 2nd was 26.00 and looks identical to the Sears belt. Both aftermarket says they are Kevlar, but the Sears belt mentions nothing of Material. Is the Sears belt Kevlar? Unsure. The 2nd belt snapped after about 10 hours of running over 2 days. 
The unit is still under warranty, calling Sears to send someone out to look at it.


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

robbie0911 said:


> Thanks Obvious, but all seems to be lined up, yes Sears belts are 70.00 a piece. I purchased 2 because of the snow in Massachusetts and then ordered 2 online from different sites. The 20.00 belt is definitely a 20.00 belt. The 2nd was 26.00 and looks identical to the Sears belt. Both aftermarket says they are Kevlar, but the Sears belt mentions nothing of Material. Is the Sears belt Kevlar? Unsure. The 2nd belt snapped after about 10 hours of running over 2 days.
> The unit is still under warranty, calling Sears to send someone out to look at it.


I feel your $pain$, and again, I'm sorry to hear about it. I hope they dispatch a knowledgeable mechanic to you, and he solves your woes. 

I _hate_ to keep parroting the same old lines, but when I get a *"Made in the USA"* belt, I can tell the difference between the 50+ American belt and the 19.99 +S&H import, so that may be why you're seeing such a contrast between the 70 and 20 dollar belt. The kevlar belts seem to come in various shades. In my limited experience, I associate the blue kevlar belts with TSC and their cheap imports from either India or Mexico. During the 1990 through just recently, I remember getting a lot of green belts. Who knows why they're different colors. I can only say that the _purported_ kevlar brand TSC sells are blue. 

If nothing seems amiss, I'd add a pair of belt tensioners between the mule and blower drives to steady the belt out as soon as the warranty runs out. Have you ever had somebody else operate the blower at full throttle, step back, and take in the floppy flop flop of the belt? It shakes more than one of those 1960s out of tune Pontiac 4 cylinders that were half of a 389. 

The blowers we're using are an odd lot. After reading innumerable reviews, I gathered that it's as much to do with luck as mechanical prowess with regards to whether your machine will be a belt shredder or praiseworthy. Of course, if it's under warranty, your hands are tied until it expires. 

Keep us posted,
bolillo


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

I blew my first belt with the same set up. In my case, I know I was pushing the blower too hard. I felt the machine shake more than usual, so I slowed down, and the vibration stopped, but I could still hear the strain. I began wondering if I was smelling a burned belt, but dismissed it as the new paint smell. About 20 minutes in, the belt blew. I'd bought this blower to put on one of the gear drive tractors, and I think I'll do that this summer. The go pedal hydrostatic types are too easy to abuse for people like me. 

It was even an American made belt. Live and learn... I'll try and remember to revisit this thread next season or if we get more snow this year. 

My blower is 486.24837 and the belt is listed as a 47846, which is a 5/8 x 114 V belt.

















cheers,
bolillo


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

What most people don't know(or aren't told by the dealer) is that the snowblowers,today,are NOT designed for anything more than light,fluffy snow.
If they have fairly thin,augers,it wont hold up against heavy,or packed snow .
The better ones will be 2-stage,and have serrated auger blades that are nearly 3/16 " thick(or thicker),with a solid spiral,or heavy supporting plates to attach it to the drive hubs.
Some even have "drift breakers",which is a driven shaft ,with small rakers,near the top of the housing.
Unfortunately,the manufacturers make them lighter,and cheaper,so you have to work it less.


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

jhngardner367 said:


> Unfortunately,the manufacturers make them lighter,and cheaper,so you have to work it less.


Sorry to cherry pick your post, but I couldn't disagree with you more. While we both agree that they're indeed making things cheaper today, I'm of the contention that they do for several reasons other than it's lighter so you don't have to work as much.

Before I bought this blower, I was disappointed to see that I couldn't order spare gears that drive the auger. They only list a complete unit. I think I've sorted out the parts myself, and I'll revisit a thread I started with the blowers model number, so somebody else could stumble upon it whilst searching. 

I _feel_ that they're doing it for more nefarious reasons:

1. cheaper to produce, less materials, less logistics, less weight to ship.
2. breaks faster so you're back to buy another one. Heirloom tools work against lining their coffers
3. marketing, the faux green movement, "Our company used 30% less materials in this product because we care about the environment."

I'm sure you could easily add to this.

Hope I made you laugh, or cry...
bolillo


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

What I meant,is that they are cheaper made,so you CAN'T do the heavier work ,as you could with the older ones.
Yes,you are correct. They figure if it wears out you'll buy another. That,unfortunately is the new mentality for just about all products , these days!
I miss the days when you could buy with confidence,knowing it is a strong unit.
Now,companies seem to be relying on the old name,to convince people they're still good,and not worrying when it breaks down too soon.


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

*jhngardner367*, I now see what you mean, and I couldn't agree more. 

Not only do I miss the days when I could _buy with confidence,_ I also miss _having my job._ Foreign imports killed my job, town, and the rest of the nation, but it seems as though few people grasp that idea. "Things are so much better, cheaper, and we can buy something new more often," seems to be the "mentality" you touched on.

I love hearing people who state, we've as many manufacturing today as we did in the 1950s because they've seen some report stating such. I don't know how to deal with this type. They drive around the same nation, see the same abandoned factories, derelict lots full of rubbish where a factory used to stand, see the ubiquitous imported goods everybody owns/walks by on the store shelves, and pass by the same manufacturing plants repurposed into low income housing, and somehow insist we have the same amount of manufacturing jobs? My God, isn't propaganda effective?

Just for the sake of argument, let's say we actually do have the same number of manufacturing jobs as the 1950s. I see two very troubling problems trying to bring that figure into today's America. 

1. We've doubled the size of the population since that era.
2. With the further debasing of the dollar, women have had to enter the workforce to make ends meet, and prior to that, women's work was non-taxable labor, so by putting them in the workforce, their efforts now became taxable income. This really took effect in the 1970s, after the 1950s figure that seems popular among the pundits.

Hence, even if one is _to believe_ we've as many manufacturing jobs, we'd still need 4x as many due to the aforementioned points. 

If that depressed the reader, _it should!_

I don't mean to sidetrack the topic, and I apologize to the readership. 

Thanks for having me,
bolillo


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I couldn't agree with you , more,my friend !
Before moving to Arkansas, I watched GM close all 5 of its Oldsmobile factories in Lansing,Michigan,and elsewhere. Nothing but empty lots,now.
The factory buildings were torn down,and GM still owns the land,but because of an agreement with the State,and the City of Lansing,they don't pay any taxes on them.They do,however get to claim the loss on taxes each year.....city,state,and federal !
The same thing happened in previous years in Flint,and Detroit.
Many of the businesses that did business with them, also folded,and displaced workers went elsewhere,to find work.
Tags used to read" Made with pride,in the USA"....now they read" assembled in the USA. Parts may be made in Mexico,or other countries".


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

I found out the hard way that a 5/8 x 114 belt is something most don't stock. I found some belts on the most popular site for selling/buying items. The advert claimed made in the USA kevlar belt 30 bucks a belt free shipping, so I ordered two. They came today, and I just happen to have a driveway full of snow. After I was done, I cleared a path to the wood pile and down to the neighbor's, then I cleared the neighbor's driveway and parking area. 

I was blowing a crust of ice, snow, and a slushy/ice mix that was roughly 6+ inches deep. I was out for more than an hour of continuous blowing, and I really flogged it for half an hour plus without issue. 

Stens _TRUBLUE_ made in the USA
















I also picked up a mule drive belt 'cause I don't have a spare. I used it as well without issue. I found one at Tractor Supply Company (TSC). They're called Huskee and are made in India. I think I've picked up some that were hecho en mexico as well. I've never had a problem with the blue kevlar belts at TSC. I just say away from them because they're imported, but I often find I have to use them due to convenience. The size I picked up was 1/2 x 56. I didn't have the belt number, and Searspartdirect listed several different belts, so I had to take the old belt in for side by side comparison. I think it was 12 - 13 ish & change with the King's Pennsylvania Estate 6% sales _privilege._ 
















Hope it helped somebody,
bolillo


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Thanks for info. I had the Sears person come by yesterday. Absolutely USELESS!!! He just acted like I was an idiot and kept saying to "slow down". I told him his visit was useless, and my dinner plans with family was completely ruined because he was 45 minutes late. He installed my own belt, stated I had tension too tight. I installed based on video and instructions. I asked if he was going to replace belts, he said no. I then started cursing and he replaced one. Should I make a stink for a second?


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Photo 1,2,5are Sears belts. 3,4 are Kevlar EBay belt. What do you think?


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

From what I can see,it's not just rubbing on something,it is also snagging on something!
Check the pulleys for alignment,and roughness/sharp edges.
Also,turn the auger,by hand,forward,and backward,to see if there's any large movement in the gearbox shafts(free-play).


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

I've the same set up, and I can tell you, I'm not happy with the pulley alignment on mine whatsoever. Then top this with a belt that's 114 inches long, and it's a recipe for disaster, especially with my heavy right foot! 

I'm not tearing into it until the season's over. The mounting brackets on the frame that the hitch pins go through needs to be lowered about an inch on my set up and the front needs to tilt down a little. Perhaps even two flat idlers added. That's what my backyard mechanic's eye tells me anyway. 

As I've stated in my first paragraph, I fully understand why this particular blower set up has seemingly 50% complaining about it being a belt eater, while the other half doesn't seem to have any trouble at all. 

This blower came with all the hardware to fit a plethora of tractor models. It looks like it will bolt right up to my old 917. tractors from the 1980s. I'm sure this universal fitment doesn't help with the belt alignment, but hey, I'm no expert, just a terminal cynic. 

Please keep us informed robbie0911,
bolillo


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I agree,blillo,100% !
Too many are made to" fit" a lot of different units,but they don't think about that extra inch of angle,or length of flopping belt.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Ironically the unit came out of box with no need to change any pulleys. My lawn tractor is 2002 917. Hydronic transmission, automatic. Any units with a clutch needs pulley changes. 
I would be able to asses for sharpness, but proper angles??? Aside from visual, not a clue. Probably will not get snow to be able to use again this year. Now just heavy wet snow, not good for tractor attachment.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

I will buy 3 Kevlar belts next winter instead of one Sears belt.


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Any chance that unit actually has the pulleys for the clutch models???


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

*robbie0911*: 

The belt below has roughly 1 1/2 hours of use if you'd like to compare the condition of your belts after a new installation. It's been used twice so far, and it's snowing again as I type.

Belt Angle:

I'm not sure how much this affects belt life, but here are the angles I'm talking about. Just like taking photographs of deep snow, the camera doesn't really capture the the severity. 

My mule drive tilts toward the back of the tractor, while the belts angle down on the opposite plane to meet the blower.















There's quite a lenght of belt that's free to flippity flop as much as it likes. The belt angle is even worse when the blower is lowered. In the aforementioned belt angles, the blower is in travel lock, as you can note by my 5 year old photo shop skills with the two arrows of different size.









Fitment to older 917.xxxxx models:

When I spoke that the blower looks like it would fit my older 917.XXXXX models, I meant the horizontal Craftsman II models that were GT16, GT18, GT20, & GT6000s manufactured from the mid 1980s through the early 1990s.









This is the mule drive in the white circle above. For those that are unaware, it converts the horizontal shaft drive into vertical.









If you're still in doubt, the Briggs & Stratton, Kohler Magnum, and Onan L-head opposed horizontal drive twins don't avail themselves to vertical pulleys, so a mule drive must be used. *Note the PTO & belt on the front of the engine.









Just by my eyeball, it looks like the 486.24837 42" Craftsman blower will work this old tractor, and if it doesn't, I've a Lincoln AC/DC welder, assortment of grinders, and a rather impressive hammer collection... 

After mounting the blower in question to the 2011 GT6000, I've an entire box full of fitment parts that didn't apply to my model tractor. I would like to put it on a gear drive unit (like the older grey tractor above) as to remove all temptation of just mashing the go pedal. I understand that it can still be abused on a gear drive unit, but from my own personal experience, I'm less inclined to overfeed the blower on a gear drive tractor than a hydrostatic model. 


cheers,
bolillo


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Those Craftsman II's were a good unit !
I had one,some years ago,that had the blade,and the snow blower. Th mule drive for the snowblower mounted to 2 studs up front,and was actually pretty easy to put on/take off.
I traded the tractor off for a pick up truck. Wish I'd have kept it,sometimes.


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

robbie0911:

I had 4" today with 1" of slush under it. I pressed it hard, and I didn't blow out a belt. Once I was done with my driveway, I blew a 300' path to the neighbor's, and did her parking area and driveway. Then I did the neighbor's across the street, so I was on it for more than 2 hours, and again I flogged it. The neighbor across the street had deeper snow, more ice and slush than my side, 'cause nobody had done her in a while. Oh my, that last sentence was quite ambiguous... 

I don't plan on abusing it like this 'cause I'm sure the auger gear won't handle a steady diet of such abuse. I was just trying to get a feel for what it will take. In my opinion, if you've got heavy ice, now, or 2' of the stuff, you've just got to crawl and let the blower work at its own pace. These aren't 10,000 dollar units... I'm not directing any of this towards you robbie0911, I was speaking about my blown out belt. The original Sears belt blew out when I pressed the unit as hard as I did today, so I'm speaking from _my_ experience. Thus far, the Trublue kevlar belt has withstood a lot more abuse than the OEM Sears unit. I believe the trublue belts were 30.95 a piece with free shipping over at ebay. I didn't check every store, but the half a dozen I was in didn't stock belts over 100 - 102 inches. I wasted half a day looking. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310290783491?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


late 80s - early 90s Craftsman II tractors:

At 200 bucks a pop, there's no excuse to only have one...









'Round here, people usually toss/unload them for 150 - 200 bucks 'cause the steering or starter gear is shot. Since we're in a throw away society, it makes perfect sense to dump a tractor 'cause it needs a 5 dollar part.

We've had the one with Olympic weights bolted to the wheels since new (1989). The other two were picked up and the previous owners cited, "Doesn't have power steering, it's gear drive and I want hydrostatic, etc..." 

The monobeam 1991 tractor on left in lower photo was 400. It seemed pretty tight, but the woman's husband died, and she wanted power steering and hydrostatic. Other than some sheet metal damage from whackin' pine trees on her property, it was a flawless tractor with an Onan, 642 hours, 50" deck, and electric deck lift. I'm not too crazy about the power deck lift 'cause it's too slow, and I can't pop a carabiner on it to hang tools, water bottles, and misc. items. I also miss the deck lift handle 'cause there's noting to grab while mounting. It's my cut mower. The old man uses the black 2011 GT6000. Naturally, I had to put tires on it. 

























Picked up a 1987 for 200 with an 18hp Briggs & Stratton. It looks like it was garage kept and lightly used. It came with brand new spare blades as well. Previous owner said, his father bought it new, but died, so he inherited it, but didn't like that it wasn't hydrostatic. 









I've got to fab up a sleeve hitch with a linear actuator some time, so I can use my Brinly 10" moldboard plow or plough as the rest of the English speaking world says. 

I wouldn't mind putting a 48" Haban sickle mower on the 1987. One reason why I'd like to mound the blower we _usually_ discuss in this thread on my idle tractor is 'cause it would be my dedicated snow blower, and I won't have to mount/dismount it.

Moreover, I've a 48" dozer blade as well. Neighbor gave it to me 2 years ago, and I've still not mounted it. I'd like to put it on the 2011 GT6000 'cause it's significantly faster and hydrostatic (ideal for a blade), but I've got to get the steering sorted first. I'm guessing that I'd have to put 100 or so pounds on the front axle to keep it from sliding when the blade's angled. I'd probably just bolt a #35 cast iron plate on each wheel, or pour myself some lead weights, and maybe ballast the front tires as well. I know it's only 1.5 - 2 gallons, but that's 15 - 20 pounds extra per front tire, and it makes the difficult task of mounting weight on the front with a blade easier 'cause I'm doing it piece meal rather than trying to find a spot to hang weights up front without interfering with the blade/blower. I'm not using chains on the driveway. They don't work well unless it's ice coated, and then there's the marking issue. 

I can't seem to save up for a used John Deer 430 with attachments. Those things got a bit more expensive in the past five years. Well, I should probably restate that, with the debasing of the dollar, it takes 40% more of them to buy a used 430 than it did five years ago. 

Well, I'm being rude, hijackin' the thread, and banging on incessantly.

Cheers,
bolillo


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

A John Deer would be sweet, especially one with their solid snow cab. I'm sure a JD doesn't eat belts like the Agri Fab unit for Craftsman. Also simply no useful snow cab available for 917.... 
As far as your old craftsman units ....work horses!!! 
I have figured out that this attachment is not for heavy stuff unless you plan on using many belts. If I knew this before my purchase, I would of maybe thought differently....... Or not. Ideally I would of liked to go to Canada. Sears has a 40inch unit with built in winch lift. Can't get in states. But for now, I'm stuck with what I have and will plan on 3 belts blown each season.


----------



## bolillo_loco (Oct 9, 2010)

To be fair to the Craftsman line, they used to sell darn nice yard equipment at a fair price. The beauty of the Suburban line for example would be the innumerable attachments. To this day, craigslist is full of inexpensive Craftsman tractors and attachments, so that's why I have what I do. Deeres are real nice, the older ones anyway, but they also command a premium price. 

The entire line of JD 318, 332, 420 and 430s are tough. While I've never owned one, I am mechanically inclined, and my eyeball just tells me those things are beasts. They were built to last at the tail end of having pride when you said, "It's made in America." True the diesel in a 430/332 is an import, but at least the rest of the tractor and the others that are gas were made here, and John Deere saw fit to use a decent diesel that is largely trouble free. 

I've seen some new John Deeres, and they're as bad as any others, think Lowes and Home Depot. They're imported, flimsy plastic, thin sheet metal, lightweight frames, and entirely belt drive throughout. I see "John Deere" snow blowers on craigslist all the time. They look like they're made by MTD and they're belt driven. The front PTO on a 430 is belt driven if I'm not mistaken. A small belt runs the shaft drive unit. It's tough to get away from belts on these small tractors. It's just so inexpensive for the manufacturer to make it belt drive versus gear or shaft, so that's what we've got to put up with. 

I can't help but wonder if your issue isn't a belt alignment issue and or excessive vibration. Is the belt close to the muffler? Belts are very tough. For ten years, I ran 1,000 and 1,200 ton Boyd presses. They had 90 horse electric motors that drove the press with a gang belt. Once and a while, something would mess up, and the press would overfill causing me to pull 10 - 12 tons per square inch. The belts would smoke and the deafening squeal that sounded like a cacophony of elephants trumpeting would cause men working nearby to jump in fear. Sometimes it would shear the 9" x 1" x 1" woodruff keys rather than break a belt. Then too, there's belt driven motorcycles. If the belts set up properly, it should last as long as you're within its duty cycle. 

I follow your frustration. I've been in similar circumstances all too often, and sometimes it takes days to troubleshoot the problem when it was right at the end of my nose the entire time. :dazed:

I've seen dozens of reviews on the blower in question. It seems like half are glowing best thing since sliced bread, and the other half bemoan it as a belt eater, which leads me to suspect a belt alignment issue. 

If you're hell bent on a snow cab, why not fab one up? I've seen people use PVC tube, thin angle iron, and or 2x4s and plywood to make a snow cab, and you can use glass for the windscreen and put a wiper on it. If you've not done so, go over to youtube and search "homemade snow cab." There's a plethora of ideas over there.


----------



## robbie0911 (Dec 16, 2014)

Thanks. I'm sure the alignment is an issue, but snow is ended and warranty expires in September. I can do a lot, but have no experience in alignment type stuff. 
I did rebuild my engine last year, due to leaking oil, including reseating valves. Never took on a project like this, but was impressed with the results. Did not touch carb, because it worked fine. 
Thanks for you input, great to have places to get and give thoughts / experience on stuff. I will be attempting to attach my linear actuator this week. Will forward pics and maybe video.


----------

