# Oil leak, Tappets, Starter, Brakes.



## Calvin (Jun 11, 2009)

Hi,
I am about to start working on my newly aquired MF 135 diesel
1966 model and would like any advice you could give.

How do I service the air filter?

I have an oil leak (hopefully only from the rocker cover) so will have to remove the hood and fuel tank, which I assume is straightforward.
What is the best way to turn the crankshaft when setting the tappet clearances and do I have to disconnect anything to relieve compression in the cylinders?

The starter motor does not always engage but I can hear it spin
anyone with any suggetions?

How easy is it to service the brakes?

Thanks in anticipation of your answers.

Cal


----------



## dirtdemon (Feb 8, 2009)

i can say that sounds like the selanoind on the starter take starter off and bench test it if the drive doesn't come all the way out it is the selanoid That is all i can answer


----------



## Jetblack1525 (Nov 9, 2008)

WD40 spray on the starter shaft might work. thats what i do when the starter is slow to engange.


----------



## Calvin (Jun 11, 2009)

*Oil leak etc.*

Thanks for your replies guys, I will try as you advised.

Cal.


----------



## moray (Jun 29, 2009)

Air filter - remove bowl from bottom, by unscrewing the clamp about 2 inches up from base. Once the bowl is off, there is also a wire mesh filter that sits above the bowl (sometimes they stick up in the filter housing, other times they'll come out with the bowl)
Clean the mesh and bowl, refill the bowl with engine oil to the marked level, sit the mesh filter on top, and then reassemble it back onto the filter housing.

The hood is easy enough to get off. 6 bolts at the instrument cowling end, and it'll tip up so far, but I normally take the two bolts out the front, and lift it ir right off (if you remove the centre grille at the front, there should be some bullet connectors for disconnected the headlights)
The fuel tank is a bit more problematic. The rear is simply held on with two bolts, next to the battery. The front is held on with two spring loaded coach bolts onto the thermostat housing.
To remove them, slacken the nuts, then the tank slides out (can't remember if it's forward or backwards). First time, it's probably best to unscrew the nuts right then lift the tank off to see how they fit in.
To refit, you need to put the bolts in the thermostat housing with the nuts on just a couple of threads. Then ideally you get somebody else to hold the bolts up while you slide the tank in.
It's always easier if you empty the tank before trying to refit it 

It's always a good idea to give the tank a flush out when you've got it off, as you don't know how much dirt is floating around inside it.

As for turning the engine to adjust the tappets, socket and ratchet on the crank pulley. There are also marks on the flywheel which allow for tappets to be done with only having to move the crank to two positions (I'd need to find my workshop manual for the exact details)

Starter motor could either be the solenoid/drive sticking so it's not fully engaging (could also be caused by damaged teeth), or the drive clutch slipping.

Brakes, are just drum brakes.
Rear wheel off, wind the adjuster back, remove the countersunk screws, and the drum should knock off (remember they'll very likely still be asbestos linings, so avoid breathing any dust).


----------



## urednecku (Aug 29, 2007)

Calvin, sorry I just came across this thread---I would suggest you contact Big Dean Austin. He's retired from MF, and has (or at least used to have) a CD with lots of advice & how-to's for most of the MF tractors. I think the CD was only about $25 a couple years ago when I bought one from him for my MF165, & I think it's well worth it. He did have a web-site, but for some reason it was shut down, & last I heard he's moving it. An archive of Dean's site is here:

http://web.archive.org/web/*/http://hometown.aol.com/bigdean62/index.html 

Good luck!!
EDIT: Go here for a little info on his CD, that is if it's still available. His e-mail addy is here, also. http://web.archive.org/web/20050916131740/hometown.aol.com/daustin62/CDPage.html


----------



## Calvin (Jun 11, 2009)

*Oil leak etc.*

Thanks for your previous replies guys.(what happened to July. Oh I know two weeks holiday and repairing the router and satellite receiver which was toasted by litening whilst we were away. I thought that I should have pulled the plugs out when we were about 5 miles away!
I have just finished sorting some of the tractor problems out (new starter,fuel pipes, rocker gasket, fuel gauge and sender,thermostat. wiring harness etc ) and need a new ammeter and control box.
I have degreased the engine and have discovered yet another leak,this time from the timing case cover. Tightening the setscrews seemed to make it worse so I guess it will need a new gasket.
I suppose this means removing the dynamo waterpump, radiator etc.
Apart from the timing cover gasket is there anything else I should replace at the same time?
Do I need a puller for the crankshaft pulley?
Any advice would be appreciated.


----------

