# 2011 GT6000 loses power uphill



## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

Hoping for a little help here, I'm admittedly panicky.

I'm at 55 hours on my GT6000 and recently picked up a 50" yard sweeper to clean up pinecones and debris. I noticed it started losing power while going uphill, and before I knew it the pedal was all the way down and I wasn't going anywhere. I backed up and drove downhill to empty the sweeper thinking it might be more full than I thought. I started again and avoided the steeper parts of the yard, but when I came to a very short (4' tall) steep slope, I simply couldn't climb up it. I backed up again and parked it in the garage to let it cool down before digging into it.

I had a spare drive belt (new) so I swapped that just in case (didn't feel loose), and being close enough to the 75 hour mark decided to change the oil in the transaxle along with a new filter from hydrogear. Per Hydrogear's manual I used 20w50 (Amsoil to be specific) and purged both with the tires off the ground on jack stands, as well as on flat ground. I followed their procedure a few times just to be sure it was purged.

To give a little history- at 15 hours on the machine, I had no power going up a very mild slope, so I called Sears and was threatened with "if the belt is worn or it's not a warranty claim it's gonna cost you $135 plus the belt"- that time it was a worn drive belt that I picked up at the local Sears parts (which in my opinion was pathetic to wear out that quick). So needless to say, I want to make sure I'm not missing something simple before I call for warranty service and end up paying. I bought in August of 2011 so I should be still under the 3 year warranty.

I do run fluid filled Carlisle All trails due to my yard being sloped, but even after putting factory tires and rims back on the problem is the same. I checked both pulleys for any signs of oil but they are clean.

Any suggestions or should I pull the trigger and call?

Any chance I actually wore out the transaxle with the filled tires?

Thanks in advance!


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

If there is any chance it is burned out I would make them replace it because it is still covered under their warranty. I have had to get a little bent out of shape a few times with sears just to make them cover stuff they knew they where liable for. I would say the only possible thing I can think of is still more air in the hydro, or maybe oil on the belt?


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Did you recheck the fluid level after purging?


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

I checked the fluid level after purging on jack stands, then after driving back and forth, and again yesterday between calls to their tech support and driving it around. Then they asked if i overfilled it,  I thought the fill plug with that hose on it prevented it being over filled?

After telling me to buy another belt their next guess is the idler spring isn't holding tight enough, so they are shipping one. They gave me an appointment time for Friday afternoon.


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## Ed_GT5000 (Sep 30, 2003)

I can't help you with the hydro, But Sears has had good service for me. I bought a gt3000 on clearance that did not run right. I was given the option (after asking) to have the GT3000 repaired o trade up to a GT5000 at same price. This is how I got the GT5000. years ago.
I have found that the Sears Hardware stores are not good at returns or service compared to regular Sears Stores. I hear that this is because they are Franchises that are tight on the bottom line.


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## txsteve (Dec 4, 2011)

The fluid level and filling is the hex plug on the side of the transaxle..
The hose on the unit is a vent only..
When filling and up to the side plug hole.then purge and check again the level..also the tractor has to be level or on jacks front n rear sitting level..


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## txsteve (Dec 4, 2011)

www.hydro-gear.com/service-manuals/g730 bln-52864_p5.pdf

Even Hydro Gear calls the vent a top fill..I find it easier using side hole for filling..in the link above, it shows the hex plug on the filter side..


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

Thanks Txsteve, I'll check it again and confirm it's level but I'm pretty sure it was. The problem has slowly gotten worse over the last month. Each time after cutting the grass I notice I'm going slower back up the driveway. It also struggled to pull the lawn sweeper more and more until the last time around when I couldn't get back up the front yard.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

I have streched 2 belts pulling implements aerator/ sweeper, etc with my ys4500. I dont know if this is whats wrong with yours but I would give it a look.


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

Just a quick thought on the vent line- if you somehow overfill it, would you damage it or would it come out the vent?


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## txsteve (Dec 4, 2011)

If you filled it and topped it up to the vent . You should get some dripping out the vent line as the oil expands getting hotter. Thats a maybe..
Now if you over filled it. There are two oil seals on the top of the unit that normally be under oil level . Main pulley shaft and bypass valve shaft. 
The seals being that oil level over them, maybe dripping and spraying oil on the belt.???
You can get oil on the pulleys and belt and still not feel by hands and the belt will slips.

Clean the pulleys with brake cleaner. If plastic pulley ,spray rag and wipe pulley dry.

Cleaning belt from oil by spraying brake cleaner on belt and wiping with rag..

Or
Put something into the vent tube so no water or cleaner enters into the transaxle.
Spray the under of the tractor and around the transaxle with engine cleaner and rinse with a water.

When you opened the side plug level check..How much oil came out??

Also don't let the Tech knows if it was over filled. May sure its clean under there and belt is clean..
They will sent you a new transaxle. .

A good question is..If no oil film on belt n pulleys, and If over filled. What takes it to fail because is just over filled.??
And when dropped to normal level. Does it works better now or did it damaged something inside. .


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

Thanks txsteve, I don't think it was overfilled, I was just curious. When I filled it, I used the top port (which was a PITA) and stopped when it flowed out the side port. After I was done, I did wrap the tube in a rag and cleaned the entire area with brake clean just out of habit. That's also when I replace the belt and I made sure to wipe both pulleys down to be sure there was no oil.

When I opened the side plug, a little oil came out, but not tons.


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

wjjones said:


> I have streched 2 belts pulling implements aerator/ sweeper, etc with my ys4500. I dont know if this is whats wrong with yours but I would give it a look.


That's when I noticed this the most, the yard sweeper has really made it pronounced when I'm trying to drive uphill. I think if I still lived at my last place that was 5 of the flattest acres you've ever seen, I'd be fine but all the slopes and hills where I live now may be too much for the belt drive. We'll see what happens when they come to check it out, but I think my next one is gonna be shaft driven.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

harbin said:


> That's when I noticed this the most, the yard sweeper has really made it pronounced when I'm trying to drive uphill. I think if I still lived at my last place that was 5 of the flattest acres you've ever seen, I'd be fine but all the slopes and hills where I live now may be too much for the belt drive. We'll see what happens when they come to check it out, but I think my next one is gonna be shaft driven.





Look on your local CL, and see if you can find a little LT1000, with a geared tranny to pull stuff with. I got my belt changed by the tech from sears the first time, and I changed the 2nd one in the same summer they where both streched. It got slower, and slower until it finally would not move its the mower in my avatar.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

I know you've checked everything you can think of....but I was just reading another thread with a similar problem. It turned out that his problem was the trans disconnect lever was pulled out a little thus causing him to lose pressure to the hydro. Worth a look anyway.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Argee said:


> I know you've checked everything you can think of....but I was just reading another thread with a similar problem. It turned out that his problem was the trans disconnect lever was pulled out a little thus causing him to lose pressure to the hydro. Worth a look anyway.




Yep i saw that thread to, and it is possible sometimes it is the most simple thing.


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## txsteve (Dec 4, 2011)

Harbin..so what ever happened?


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## the professor (Sep 16, 2010)

I had this problem with hydrostatic transmissions as well....all speed, no power. That is why I bought an old school 95 GT with the older style transmission. They just pull better under load...especially on the hills.


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

Hey TxSteve- time gets away from me, sorry for the delayed update on this. The Sears tech came out, checked the machine and wanted to charge me for a new belt. I explained I've been through many belts and it's not the problem, so I gave him a new one I had here and sure enough, didn't fix the problem. We talked about the tensioner and a few other things. Then he got into the fluid I used to change it, purging, on and on and on... After confirming all of that was good and getting to chat with him a bit, he said the most common cause he sees for this is working them too hard. I mentioned that I bought this because it's the heaviest duty one they make, but he said most people don't use any ground engaging attachments which is what wears them out. He mentioned the ballast in the tires so I asked whats the difference- Sears offers wheel weights as well as a bracket to add even more weight to the back. He said this is really what wears out the rear ends so fast- between the slope of my front lawn and the attachments, it's the long uphill pulls that it won't handle. I'm running an Amsoil full synthetic to help with cooling thinking maybe it's overheating. The rear end has been ordered and they are going to replace it, but he thinks the usage is just too much and burned up the transaxle. The are scheduled to come back this Friday.

He said when worked on flat ground repairs are very rare but on slopes they burn up. Not sure how experienced this guy was, but I have to say this wasn't very encouraging. He said just mulching it'll probably last longer, but the lawn roller is a no-no and the sweeper would be fine but when it gets full is when I'll have problems. None of this is official of course, just him telling me stuff I can't prove. All in all I'm pretty disappointed. I run a Berco 48" snowblower for the driveway which is sloped as well, he said no way- although being cold in winter will help considerably it's just not gonna last.

My warranty has 1 year left, so the plan I have is to baby this thing after the rear end gets replaced and sell it to buy a used shaft driven Deere or maybe a Simplicity. I've got a few searches saved for various used models. It's really a shame, after a few tweaks (namely your reverse upgrade) I really started liking this machine.


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

Argee said:


> I know you've checked everything you can think of....but I was just reading another thread with a similar problem. It turned out that his problem was the trans disconnect lever was pulled out a little thus causing him to lose pressure to the hydro. Worth a look anyway.


Again, I apologize for the delayed reply- I get swamped and the GT gets put on the back burner. We did confirm this, and I actually used a zip tie to hold it back just in case it was moving somehow. Didn't make any difference. I would love it if the repair something as simple as this, and a quick slap on the forehead.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

harbin said:


> ... After confirming all of that was good and getting to chat with him a bit, he said the most common cause he sees for this is working them too hard. I mentioned that I bought this because it's the heaviest duty one they make, but he said most people don't use any ground engaging attachments which is what wears them out. He mentioned the ballast in the tires so I asked whats the difference- Sears offers wheel weights as well as a bracket to add even more weight to the back. He said this is really what wears out the rear ends so fast- between the slope of my front lawn and the attachments, it's the long uphill pulls that it won't handle. I'm running an Amsoil full synthetic to help with cooling thinking maybe it's overheating. The rear end has been ordered and they are going to replace it, but he thinks the usage is just too much and burned up the transaxle. The are scheduled to come back this Friday.
> 
> He said when worked on flat ground repairs are very rare but on slopes they burn up. Not sure how experienced this guy was, but I have to say this wasn't very encouraging. He said just mulching it'll probably last longer, but the lawn roller is a no-no and the sweeper would be fine but when it gets full is when I'll have problems. None of this is official of course, just him telling me stuff I can't prove. All in all I'm pretty disappointed. I run a Berco 48" snowblower for the driveway which is sloped as well, he said no way- although being cold in winter will help considerably it's just not gonna last.
> 
> My warranty has 1 year left, so the plan I have is to baby this thing after the rear end gets replaced and sell it to buy a used shaft driven Deere or maybe a Simplicity. I've got a few searches saved for various used models. It's really a shame, after a few tweaks (namely your reverse upgrade) I really started liking this machine.


Thanks for reporting back harbin. It's always good to hear the outcome of something like this,be it good or bad. I'm a little surprised and taken aback from the techs response regarding the longevity serviceability of the G7 hydro. I'm sure HydroGear as well as Sears would be interested on what he is relaying to customers after they laid out considerable amounts of cash to purchase equipment based on the specs and reviews available to them from credible sources. I have a GT with the G7 that I primarily use for mowing. Part of the area that I mow is hilly and I have had no problems pulling up and down the hills. The specs and testimonials about it were terrific. Prior to that I mowed with a Murray lawn tractor that also employed the HydroGear unit...but several models under that G7 and it gave me years of troublefree service. I wonder if this tech has an axe to grind with HydroGear. Please keep us informed of the final outcome.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

harbin said:


> Hey TxSteve- time gets away from me, sorry for the delayed update on this. The Sears tech came out, checked the machine and wanted to charge me for a new belt. I explained I've been through many belts and it's not the problem, so I gave him a new one I had here and sure enough, didn't fix the problem. We talked about the tensioner and a few other things. Then he got into the fluid I used to change it, purging, on and on and on... After confirming all of that was good and getting to chat with him a bit, he said the most common cause he sees for this is working them too hard. I mentioned that I bought this because it's the heaviest duty one they make, but he said most people don't use any ground engaging attachments which is what wears them out. He mentioned the ballast in the tires so I asked whats the difference- Sears offers wheel weights as well as a bracket to add even more weight to the back. He said this is really what wears out the rear ends so fast- between the slope of my front lawn and the attachments, it's the long uphill pulls that it won't handle. I'm running an Amsoil full synthetic to help with cooling thinking maybe it's overheating. The rear end has been ordered and they are going to replace it, but he thinks the usage is just too much and burned up the transaxle. The are scheduled to come back this Friday.
> 
> He said when worked on flat ground repairs are very rare but on slopes they burn up. Not sure how experienced this guy was, but I have to say this wasn't very encouraging. He said just mulching it'll probably last longer, but the lawn roller is a no-no and the sweeper would be fine but when it gets full is when I'll have problems. None of this is official of course, just him telling me stuff I can't prove. All in all I'm pretty disappointed. I run a Berco 48" snowblower for the driveway which is sloped as well, he said no way- although being cold in winter will help considerably it's just not gonna last.
> 
> My warranty has 1 year left, so the plan I have is to baby this thing after the rear end gets replaced and sell it to buy a used shaft driven Deere or maybe a Simplicity. I've got a few searches saved for various used models. It's really a shame, after a few tweaks (namely your reverse upgrade) I really started liking this machine.



It could be the synthetic oil mine calls for regular oil only the synthetic could be to thin for the pump?


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## harbin (Dec 9, 2012)

wjjones said:


> It could be the synthetic oil mine calls for regular oil only the synthetic could be to thin for the pump?


You got me thinking with this post, since I'm getting such different answers from Sears I called Hydrogear directly. The guy I talked to said absolutely use synthetics, they run much cooler, and generally (at least for the G730), a 20W50 is used.

I started picking his brain about what the tech had said, he didn't sound the least bit interested to talk to me about it but said basically it's their strongest rear end and if it's stalling it's most likely belt slippage and to swap it, or the idler is worn out.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Yep I had a sears tech come out a few years back, and he said to keep the idler pivot point lubed up good, or it would stick causing the belt to run slack enough to keep it from pulling right. My belt was streched he said it was rare but it did happen, and the idler pivot didnt have any oil, grease, etc at all in it. You have to get it between the belly of the mower, and the pivot arm there is a big washer in there that serves as a bushing.


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