# LT1022 won't start



## ranger481vs

I've been having issues with my tractor starting lately. Now, it won't start at all. I get the click, click, click, and a very, very slight turn of the engine, but that's it. The battery is new, and tested good. I checked the solenoid, and that is good. Cleaned all contacts, so now I'm thinking about various safety switches, or maybe the key switch. How do I go about testing the key switch? There's a bunch of wires, but I don't have a diagram. I also thought I would pull out the brake safety switch and test that, but I can't figure how to get to the two bolts underneath to remove the switch. It's almost like the area is too narrow to get a socket to fit over the bolt head. Ugh.

Anyhow, not sure what the problem is so I'm scratching my head as to what to do next. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!


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## Mickey

You've said you've checked the solenoid and its good but how did you check it? Have you put a volt meter to the starter and see what the voltage is at the starter when trying to start?

Had to replace the solenoid on my Cub a couple yrs back. The main contacts were shot. OEM part is somewhat spendy but there are aftermarket ones for about $30.

No problems since I replaced the solenoid.


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## ranger481vs

Thanks for replying. I pulled the little red clip wire off of the solenoid, and tested it for power using my voltmeter, and there was no power coming from that wire. I replaced the solenoid last yr because it was dead, but I actually had another new solenoid lying around, so I installed that one just for the heckuva it. Still did not fix the problem.

I'm pretty handy and can fix things when I know what the problem is, but I'm not very familiar with troubleshooting engines, so I appreciate the help on here. I did not test voltage on the starter, so I will try and do that tonight, and let you know.


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## ranger481vs

I did a test I found online from ehow to check the starter using jumper cables from the battery to the positive wire of the starter. The test said the motor should turn over and start if the starter is okay. When I tested, the motor tried to turn, but barely moved at all. So, does this mean that starter is the likely problem then? How difficult is it to replace? Thanks. Matt


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## stickerpicker

I looked at the spec sheet for that engine and either overlooked the valve system type or it failed to mention it. 

Either way, if it is an OHV engine, try adjusting the valves for zero out of pocket expense*.* There have been thousands of dollars spent on solenoids, starters, key switches and batteries, not to mention safety switches when the problem was too much compression for a little pizzy starter because of valves being too loose*.*


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## ranger481vs

stickerpicker said:


> Either way, if it is an OHV engine, try adjusting the valves for zero out of pocket expense*.* *.*


How do I go about doing this? It is an ohv.


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## stickerpicker

ranger481vs said:


> How do I go about doing this? It is an ohv.


Remove the spark plugs and with the valve covers removed you'll see push rods and rocker levers like pictured. In the pic the green boxes indicate where the feeler gauge will be inserted between valve stem end and rocker lever . Tools - You'll need a torques socket, box wrench, drink straw and feeler gauges.

With the straw in the spark plug hole and touching a piston, rotate the engine, in direction of normal rotation, by hand , until the piston comes to TDC ( top dead center ) on the compression stroke. Both valves will be closed .

Now keep light inward pressure on the straw and continue rotating engine in direction of normal operation until the piston has begin going down on the power stroke about a 1/4 inch or so. Down about a half inch from TDC won't hurt a thing , just so its at least a 1/4" past TDC . Check original lash now . At this point the valves on that cylinder can be set to specifications for your engine . 

After setting valves on both cylinders, rotate the engine just as was originally done and re-check the lash . ( valve lash ) the clearance between the rocker lever and the valve stem end . 

There are videos on valve setting you can watch but take some of that info with a grain of salt. Some are nearly right and some are rather stupid . Example - if you want to chance screwing up a piston, cylinder wall or spark plug threads use a screw driver stuck into the cylinder rather than a drink straw .


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## ranger481vs

Interesting. That looks very doable. 

One question though. I am not getting voltage to the small red ignition wire that goes to the solenoid. I did a continuity voltage test on my key switch and that checked out okay, so I'm not sure what's going on there. That's why I was considering the possibility of a bad safety switch somewhere. Any thoughts on this?


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## ferguson2case

Can you post a picture of the solenoid? How are you testing the voltage to the RED wire?


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## ranger481vs

I can't snap a pic of the solenoid when it's installed. It's a 3 pole, and I tested the wire with my volt meter by sticking the red prong into the red wire clip and then the black prong grounded against a screw on the frame. It registered only .19-ish volts.


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## stickerpicker

Being certain the solenoid is well grounded, ( run jumper wire from the negative batt post to solenoid case if need be to be certain ) disconnect the low amp red wire from the solenoid and run a jumper wire from the positive batt post to the terminal on the solenoid the red wire was disconnected from . If the connections, battery, starter and solenoid are good it should crank .

This will separate and determine which group of electrical components need attention .


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## ranger481vs

Thanks everyone for chiming in on my starting issue. 

Stickerpicker, I adjusted the valves, as per your directions, and that did the trick. It was so simple to adjust, I was very pesimistic that something so easy would solve the problem. It started right up, and starts better than it ever has in the last 3 yrs that I've owned the tractor. I'll plan on checking the adjustment yearly now. Again, thanks much stickerpicker. That was an awesome piece of advice.


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## stickerpicker

ranger481vs said:


> Interesting.
> 
> One question though. I am not getting voltage to the small red ignition wire that goes to the solenoid.


We're glad you can use your tractor again without going through the ritual , so many do , of replacing parts like - starter - solenoid - ign switch to the tune of serious bucks in some instances .

The question of not getting voltage to the small red wire at the solenoid and another time you got 0.19 V is still an unresolved question . Low voltage to the red wire is a real possibility why you heard the click, click, click you describe in the original post . That click sound, if rapid, is often the internal solenoid contact points attempting to " make " but not enough volts to hold them in contact . So, I wouldn't be surprised if that circuit rears its ugly head again some day but hopefully not.


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## ranger481vs

Yes, I may investigate that a little more with the red wire. Strangest thing though today. The motor was starting and running better than before, and then it started running funny, like running too rich. Found that one spark plug was wet. Then, tested the magneto armature with a spark plug ignition tester and it wasn't producing a spark. So, looks like I will be replacing that next before I can mow my lawn again. Weird that it went out right after I fixed the starting issue.


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## Argee

One other thing you may want to consider is the possibility of a poor ground to the engine.


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## ranger481vs

The red ignition wire to the solenoid is testing fine with full voltage now. I realized I wasn't actually turning the key far enough to try and crank the engine.

I have a new problem I'm dealing with, and I could use more help. Not sure if my valve adjustment has anything to do this, but see notes below:

Problem: My engine is running funny, seems to be too rich, a little black smoke and does not have full power. One spark plug is wet, 
So far, I replaced the magneto armature, and plug was still wet. Then, I replaced the (diode?) harness wiring that connects to the two magneto armatures. This did not fix the problem either. How can I confirm if I installed the wiring correctly? There's a black wire and a gray wire. I'm hoping I didn't reverse the wires, but not sure.

Both plugs are brand new. Any thoughts on what to look at next?


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