# New to forums with an old cub with issues



## Webbys61Cub (Mar 7, 2011)

Hello all. My name is Scott. I have one of the old original series Cub Cadet from 1961 I think? It has been in my family since new. I really love my old machines. Usually I can fix any problems it might have, but last night while plowing the driveway it wouldn't let me disengage gears. I push in the clutch but it won't stop or let me shift. I adjusted the rod connected to the pedal with no difference. Since I stopped plowing last night, we got another 8"-10" of snow. I'm hoping it is something simple. Any advice would be much appreciated.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Welcome to the Forum! I dont know what to tell you but i am sure a member will chime in that will be able to help you. I was wondering if it has ever done this before in the cold weather?


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## Webbys61Cub (Mar 7, 2011)

Thank you for the welcome. I have been on forums for other stuff and knew the right place to go was to a forum dealing with the old cubs.

As a matter of fact, it has shifted harder during past winters. It never stopped shifting though. I was wondering if something could get frozen. I added some gear oil since I didn't see any drips under it. It has a small leak somewhere in the back. It worked fine for a few minutes after adding the oil, but hung up again. Took it out 2 hours later and it was fine. It had warmed up alot too, so I was thinking it might just be cold. If I have to plow alot soon, I'll try to warm it up with my salamander heater first.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

How cold has it been? The trans oil might be too thick for it to work properly. Is it parked inside? Could be some water is getting in there and possibly freezing. Id run a lighter gear oil for now and see how that works. 

In the spring, id drain it out and put new oil in.

I own a 86GTII with a 6 speed/hi/low trans - i changed the original trans oil - i used 50% lucas oil and 50% gear oil - because of the heat down here and theres a whole lotta gears in that trans. Ive been told in northern climates the trans actually uses 10w40 motor oil.


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## Webbys61Cub (Mar 7, 2011)

*Oil weights*

I wasn't sure about oil weights. I addes 90 weight gear oil. I see alot has leaked out since I added it but I haven't lifted it up to see if it is a leak or possible overflow? There's alot laying on the garage floor. It did get down around zero. I store it in the garage but there isn't heat unless I fire up the salamander heater. I planned on changing out the oil when warmer weather hits. Thanks.
Scott


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

The oil could be leaking out faster then its put in also- might want to change that seal too in the spring.


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## Webbys61Cub (Mar 7, 2011)

*leaking*

True. It always leaked a few drops here and there.


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## Webbys61Cub (Mar 7, 2011)

I am hoping to get a closer look at this soon. Where would I get the best book for the repair? Or is it best to get it through this site somehow? I have removed basic stuff before, but I've never pulled the axle apart. I don't know what I am looking for, so I don't want to pull anything apart until I have pictures to go by. Thanks


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## wham (Apr 8, 2011)

It may be "between gears" which happens to old IH transmissions sometimes . I am trying to remember if the Original is the same as the newer 64 and later gear drives and if it is there are four bolts holding the top plate down that the shifter is attached to . I think you can lift it straight up if it is and should be able to see if something has come loose but it is probably just the shifter forks have slipped on it and gotten out of place . Just something to try and it really isn't that difficult . 

Tim H.


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## Slvrstreek (Feb 27, 2011)

Hi
If your Cub is a 1961, it is an "Original" and has a manual shift very heavy duty transission. The clutch is mechanical and has a floating disk sandwiched between two friction plates. The clutch release simply takes the clutch engagement spring presssure off the disk. Since there is no actual force being applied to separate the friction plates from the clutch disk, if the tractor has not been used for a while it is common for the clutch disk to freese (rust) or stick to the friction plates. Note that it is all metal to metal, so rust - or lack of smooth polished finish on any of the disks will prevent the clutch from disengaging (slipping). The old way to cure this was to put it up against a wall or tree, put it in hi gear, and start the engine with the clutch pedal held down, and let the engine break it loose. You won't get it free by simply pushing in the clutch. Therefore you won't get the tractor to stop - or get the tractor in or out of gear - with the motor running. In Michigan winters, it was common to simple insert a big sharp object "carefully" against the edge of the clutch disk to friction disk joint and separate the disks - preferrably with someone holding the clutch pedal down - but not necessarily so, since once the disks are separated they won't instantly freese back up again. By carefully, I mean - don't put a burr on the edge of any of these disks, or it won't properly disengage until it is dissassembled and smoothed off. The clearance with the clutch disengaged is not that much. Don't lubricate the clutch disks, that will attract dirt and moisture, and aggravate the sticking problem. Hint, once you get it disengaged, let it slip a little to clean it out, so it won't simple "set up" the minute you leave it alone for a while.
Hope this helps.
slvrstreek


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

Webbys61Cub said:


> I am hoping to get a closer look at this soon. Where would I get the best book for the repair? Or is it best to get it through this site somehow? I have removed basic stuff before, but I've never pulled the axle apart. I don't know what I am looking for, so I don't want to pull anything apart until I have pictures to go by. Thanks


 All mine are Hydrostatic. Did they do that in 61? I have a 63 that has Hydrostatic.
It works like the day it was made! My 67 worked fine till I killed the engine.
(It lost an oil seal, and I ran it out of oil)
My 72 has some problems, but I will be installing the hydrostatic out of the 67 as soon as it quits working.


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## Slvrstreek (Feb 27, 2011)

Yes, the 1961 originals had a manual transmission, with the "double friction surface" clutch. If you can find a manual, you will see that the pulley which is driven by the belt on the back of the engine serves as the "Clutch Disk" and floats between two disks on the drive shaft. The clutch spring on the drive shaft is compressed when the clutch release yoke pushes against the clutch release collar (which houses the release bearing), this lets the drive shaft mounted disks serarate slightly from the floating pulley, removing the drive force from the drive shaft. 
On the originals, there was no cover over the drive belt, so it was possible to reach down through the belt clearance opening in the frame and separate the disks from the top. There is only supposed to be about .020 - .030 clearance between the clutch release yoke and the clutch release collar, but that is enough movement to get the disks "unstuck". Of course, the kinder and gentler way to fix it, if it is simply "iced up", is to apply gentle heat to thaw it out - although that takes a while with the big iron pulley and disks involved.
I can understand how you felt when this happened. The first time mine got snow packed in it while plowing snow and froze up was quite exciting - I was sure I was going to screw up the transmission, break off the shift lever, or run over something - since pushing in the clutch didn't stop the tractor and I couldn't even get it yanked out of gear until I killed the engine. 
Anyway the condition is neither serious nor unusual (if you use them in sloppy freezing weather, or let them set out too long without exercise). 
Slvrstreek


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## Webbys61Cub (Mar 7, 2011)

*Thanks for the information*

Unfortunately I haven't done much with the Cub except drive it into the side shed until I get to it. It shifted fine. Go figure. I did however, print out 4 manuals on the older cubs and taking in the information. So the oil leakage problem doesn't sound like it has anything to do with the clutch problem. I want to work in it, but our contractor has left us with issues concerning our addition and I can't leave things unattended. I appreciate all the input, as this tractor is like family. I know sounds weird, but I'm sure you guys understand


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