# MF 35 Industrial- new to me



## Ikillplushies (Feb 3, 2018)

Here it is, bought from guy who said he got it from a golf course. IMHO has a dirty fuel tank, have only run (on jumper bottle) long enough to raise the FEL. FWIW Loader is MF 100. U can't see in these pic but R frt tire is bald, L frt almost.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy plushie, good luck with your (new to you) tractor. Post back if you have any problems with it.


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## Ikillplushies (Feb 3, 2018)

Ok, took a closer look at front tires and definitely looking for at least one
750-10 industrial rib tire. Are there different places to get them or is it only a Temco product? A F3 is higher rated than a F2? Found one Temco on Ebay for $200 shipped, 6 ply.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Miller Tire offers a Firestone 750-10 3-rib/6-ply tractor tire for $195 with free shipping on ebay. Tucker Tire, Dyersburg, Tennessee (my normal tire haunt) doesn't have this size tire. Miller Tire is a top-notch tire dealer.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The F rating refers to the tread design and intended use.

F1 tires used to be a single center rib design for steering control on loose soil. But, it is now used to designate multi-rib front tires with a slightly rounded tread profile, raised in the center) that are suitable for on-road usage. 2WD applications.

F2 has a multiple rib steer tire tread and is used in general farming conditions. Has a flatter tread profile to place all the ribs on the ground contact patch. Wears well on unplowed or firmer surfaces that tear up the center rib design, and has more steering control than the F1 tire. They are normally found on 2WD tractors.

F3 front-tire industrial multiple rib steer tires that generally have a more conventional tread pattern with or without squiggles between the bars. They work well with R4 rear tires (backhoe tires). They are normally found on 2WD tractors used for industrial and loader applications on pavement and other hard or packed surfaces, and have higher load carrying capacity.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

That might be a Davis loader??


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## Ikillplushies (Feb 3, 2018)

pic of tire and some misc.
Thx sixbales and Wells

I also have water in the trans/ hyd any tips for getting All of it out?
Anyone tried using one of these filters for separating water and oil?
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Funnel-AF3CB-Fuel-Filter/dp/B000SOIRCG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
(24 ques and no one asked this)


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Remove the water in the transmission by draining. Flush the transmission with kerosene by filling and operating just enough to fully circulate the stuff, then drain and let it set for a couple of days in a dry barn with the drain and fill plugs out.

I usually heat the gearcases with an electric heater during that time, but optional.

Those funnels are a scam, they will filter out sawdust, gravel and frogs, but not much else.


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## Ikillplushies (Feb 3, 2018)

RC Wells; first two paragraphs I have couple ques:
Kerosene isn't much of a lubricant and I'd be running it through my pump and rest of hydraulic system too. People ever flush with used and filtered motor oil? Seems like it would be closer in vis. to the 80w that's suppose to be in it. (cheaper too)
Heating the gearcases seems like good idea except I was going to use tractor to build the shop for it and we're still at least freezing at night here. There would still be hideout in hoses, valves, cylinders, etc. to consider.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Ikill; you might want to use diesel fuel to flush with it. Like RS says drain it. And flush with a couple gallons. Does this tractor have 3 point hitch? There are 2 plugs to take out on the tractor part to drain the 3point, trans and diff. The loader frame is a reservoir for the loader. you will need to drain some of that off to check for water contamination (milky coloured) there could be 2 drain plugs on the loader. If there is separated water it will come out first. It is hard to get ALL over the contaminated oil out of these systems. Drain all that drains; it takes about 8 gallons in tractor to fill it and 5 or more for the loader(??) Don't put any alcohol though.There most likely will be a filter somewhere on the loader, change that(they are expensive because they are micro). There may be a hidden one in the tractor part if it has 3 point(they are washable).


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Kerosene has adequate lube for flushing the transmission and related components, it also contains no harmful chemical additives like motor oil or diesel. Yes, you will be draining all your hydraulic hoses, sumps and filters before and after using kerosene. 

Your loader has its own sump in the frame, and is not connected to the tractor sump, so that system is independent, and if contaminated with water is a much more laborious process to drain, flush, and drain again. In that case you will only use Universal Tractor Fluid.

Do not attempt to do any work with the tractor, just run it enough to flush everything.

As an option 5 or 10 weight non-detergent motor oil can be used as a flushing agent, but it is expensive and hard to find. Bulk low cost universal fluid is also excellent, but certainly much expensive more than clear kerosene.

There is always the option we used 20 years ago, drain the old oil, refill with tractor fluid, and then drain again. Doing this three times during a period the tractor is actually being used will usually remove most of the moisture. With the price of UTF this approach gets a bit steep as it requires a complete fill between and after each draining.


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## Ikillplushies (Feb 3, 2018)

deerhide said:


> Ikill; you might want to use diesel fuel to flush with it. Like RS says drain it. And flush with a couple gallons. Does this tractor have 3 point hitch? There are 2 plugs to take out on the tractor part to drain the 3point, trans and diff. The loader frame is a reservoir for the loader. you will need to drain some of that off to check for water contamination (milky coloured) there could be 2 drain plugs on the loader. If there is separated water it will come out first. It is hard to get ALL over the contaminated oil out of these systems. Drain all that drains; it takes about 8 gallons in tractor to fill it and 5 or more for the loader(??) Don't put any alcohol though.There most likely will be a filter somewhere on the loader, change that(they are expensive because they are micro).


Haven't checked fluid in loader yet, filter in really open place though.



deerhide said:


> There may be a hidden one in the tractor part if it has 3 point(they are washable).


a Hidden filter- Please tell me NOT under a plate that covers the 3 pt cylinder?


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

If it has 3 pt. it 'may' have an inside filter, not all of the MF's did. You access it behind the pto control stick cover. Of course you will need to drain the trans and diff. housings first. It's just an 'unscrew, wash in fuel or whatever and screw back on' deal. I do use diesel to flush because kerosene costs about $10 a gallon here. For what it is worth I have plenty of 30 weight motor oil so I use that instead of hydraulic oil or gear oil......


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## Ikillplushies (Feb 3, 2018)

Just found that L lift cylinder on loader is leaking.(MF 100) It's not that I'm doing this right away, but is is this something one person could remove and carry short distance?


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