# yrying to convert a Ford NAA to 12 v with electronic ignition



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I ordered the Kit for the 12 volt coversion first. That was a couple months ago. I recieved the kit and though it would be a quick and easy cobversion. I was/am very wrong!!

The wiring diagram with the kit makes no sense. Tried it 3 times in case I was missing something. No luck.
I have been to many Internet Locations to find a workable diagram. I have tried about 6 or 7 different diagrams with no luck. One had the engine turn over, but never started and as soon as I let off rhe key , everything stopped. With one diagram ,as soon as I turned the key the wire from the solenoid to the Amp meter burst into flames,
I am very tired of this and want a wiring diagram that works.

I had figured to do the 12 volt conversion first and then order the Electronic convrsion after.

I have asked for advice at most of the local mechanical repair shops,,, my friends if they know someone to do it. So far the best I have gotten was one guy said he converted his 12 volt. When asked if he would do another and made a face and said NO WAY. And he works in an Automotive and equipment shop. One guy sounded like he could easily do the job, but he lives up on the Canadian Border, too far away.

I have a friend who is amazed I'm having so much trouble with finding some one to wire it as a points and condenser set-up.
ny
I'm looking for a GOOD Workable diagam, or if someon lives with-in reach of Hunters, WA. mayb they could help me or I could hire them.

Please let me know if you could share a good workable diagram or advice, or physical help.

Thanks everyone !!


----------



## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Good Morning John,
I suspect that part of your problem is switching from 6V positive ground to 12V negative ground. You likely have a ground problem. I would completely disconnect any lights and/or electrical accessories you have on the tractor and get back to basics. Attached below are a series of wiring diagrams for the NAA. 






Ford Tractor 12 Volt Conversion Wiring Diagrams Late 8N and 53 Jubilee







www.myfordtractors.com


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

HarveyW said:


> Good Morning John,
> I suspect that part of your problem is switching from 6V positive ground to 12V negative ground. You likely have a ground problem. I would completely disconnect any lights and/or electrical accessories you have on the tractor and get back to basics. Attached below are a series of wiring diagrams for the NAA.
> 
> 
> ...


Thank You for your responce and advice.
I only had Basic wiring to start. No lights or other add-ons.
I started with all Bare Terminals. I did make a Bone-Head move. I changed the Polarity ( I thought ) , but all I actually did was swap locations of wires. That was about the time I Incenerated the wire from Solenoid to Ampmeter.

I'm pretty sure I have the Polarity Correct, now.
One problem I believe I discovered, a couple days ago, is I believe I have the wrong Ingition switch. I got one yesterday I hope works.

Thank You for your reply. BTW, I have tried a couple of the diagrams on that URL, but that may have before I found my DUMB polarity mistake. I'll try again.

John


----------



## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

You may have damaged the alternator with incorrect polarity. I would take it to an auto parts shop and have it checked.


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

HarveyW said:


> You may have damaged the alternator with incorrect polarity. I would take it to an auto parts shop and have it checked.



Good Idea. I thought the engine would start regardless of the Alternator, just not charge.
Today, with a new and different Switch, I got it to turn, but wouldn't stop turning without reemoving a battery cable. It tried to fire once, in the form of a loud POP. Figured the plug wires are out of order. They don't tell you much when you buy them.

If my farmer friend doesn't show-up soon, I'll find a shop to convert it. 2 problems with that. All shops are 40 t0 70 miles away and I have to hire someone to haul it, to and fro. Don't know of any shops with a good repretation with electrical systems.


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

I'll try to help but have a lot of questions. I assume originally it was 6 volt, positive ground with an ignition switch and starter push button?
What all came in the kit? I assume a 12 volt ignition coil and alternator? Is it a Delco one wire alternator?
If I were doing it, the battery would be the last thing I would connect. (After everything is done, then 100% sure it's now negative ground).
Looking at the original wiring it looks like the starter button goes to ground when pressed which I bet that's what fried the ammeter. 
Any lights convert from 6 to 12 volts.
Ammeter and ignition coil polarity has to be reversed. 
(If coil says use with external ballast you need a ballast resistor. Internal ballast coil doesn't need resistor.)
Coil --negative goes to distributor. 
Coil + positive goes to ignition switch.
Battery--negative to good clean ground (large wire 2 or 0 gauge).
Battery +positive to large starter solenoid terminal (large 2 or 0 gauge). Other large solenoid terminal goes to starter motor.
Small solenoid terminal goes to starter push button.
You'll need a new ammeter. 
Ammeter is connected between alternator and battery with fairly heavy (6 to 10 gauge) wiring. Ammeter + to alternator, -- to battery. 
Ammeter + also goes to ignition and light switch. Engine running, it shows battery is being charged. Not running, turning on lights shows discharge.
Finally connect battery, + positive first then negative. Turn on lights, ammeter should show discharge. If you have a meter or test light, check power at coil +. Should be off key off, on key on. Be 100% sure tractor is in neutral. 
Key off...press starter button for a second to be sure it cranks. Now key on, it should fire up when cranked.




Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

fuddy1952 said:


> I'll try to help but have a lot of questions. I assume originally it was 6 volt, positive ground with an ignition switch and starter push button?
> What all came in the kit? I assume a 12 volt ignition coil and alternator? Is it a Delco one wire alternator?
> If I were doing it, the battery would be the last thing I would connect. (After everything is done, then 100% sure it's now negative ground).
> Looking at the original wiring it looks like the starter button goes to ground when pressed which I bet that's what fried the ammeter.
> ...


Your assumptiom is 100% correct.
I the Kit was an Alternator, one wire, no coil, a wiring harness that they said most wasn't needed and to throw away.
I removed my old harness and wired per their diagram (Junk) then installed the battery.
No lights installed.
No accessaries installed.
I was instructed that if the ampmeter read backwards, to just reverse the leads on the meter.
Coil, I bought a 12 volt coil at a Auto Parts Store.Coil hook-up is as you state and as a friend advised. Internal Resistor.
Battery Neg. Connected to clean surface of Block.Batery POS. cable connected to one solenoid large terminal, second large terminal is connected to starter.
Small Solenoid Terminals. There are 2 "S' and "I". I was advised not to use "I". Which would go to the Starter Push Botton?
I installed a 60 Amp 12 volt meter.

Ammeter conected A;ternator with # 10 or #6 wire Ammeter POS. to Alternator, Alternator NEG. to Battery.
Ammeter POS aleo goes to i_gnition and Light Switch. Engine Running, it shows Battery being Charged. Nor Running, turning on Lights shows Discharge.
Finally, connect Battery POS first then NEG. Turn on Lights ammeter should shoe Discharge. If you have a Meter ortest light, check Power At Coil POS. Should beOff Ket Off, on Key On. Be 100% tractor is in neutral.

Key Off...Press starter button for a second to be sure it cranks. Now Key ON, it should fire up when cranked._


_I believe I have done all of the things I put in Black Ink._

_The things in Blue ink, I need to do or need to double check if I did.

I thank you very much for explaining this in a way an old man might understand.


Thank You, John_


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

"Small Solenoid Terminals. There are 2 "S' and "I". I was advised not to use "I". Which would go to the Starter Push Botton?"

Everything seems ok except solenoid. 
I'm not familiar with it, but if your starter push button goes to ground, grounds when pushing on it, solenoid would have to have power going to one small terminal, a short wire battery side to it, then other to push button. Push starter grounds that side making solenoid work.
If you have a meter check continuity (ohms low scale) the two S small terminals. That's the coil inside, so 12v positive one side, negative the other makes it work.
Momentary push button ground one side with other side positive it will work.



Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

We got the NAA to Start. The engine continually searchs. We found the rotor button didn't have a clip. I got a New clip and rotor. Put them in the distributor today. It starts very well, but it is still searching some. I tried to get it to settle down, but it continues to search. The New rotor and clip still allows about a 1/16" -1/8" movrmrnt of the rotor.
Do I have a worn Dist. shaft bushing/bearing?
I didn't try moving the Dist. Setting to see if that would help.
If my dist. is bad, the planned Electronic Ign. isn't going to help.
Any advice or ideas?


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

I would mark the rotor position then distributor base and block then pull distributor. Marking everything it's easy reinstalling it.
Once out check gear wear and if anything is loose or out of whack.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

fuddy1952 said:


> I would mark the rotor position then distributor base and block then pull distributor. Marking everything it's easy reinstalling it.
> Once out check gear wear and if anything is loose or out of whack.
> 
> Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


Thanks !! I am one of those that hate to give-up. The bad part, for me, is I already have a ton of money spent on this thing. Each time I know or think I know what is wrong and fix or replace the part, something else goes bad. It has been a never ending torture. 
I have had this NAA for about 10 years and bet it hasn't run 20-30 hours in the whole time. I have been on the verge of junking it, many times. My guess is I have in the 100's of hours working on this thing, then there have been the expense of Tractor Repair Shops and thousands of dollars in parts and labor.

You make it sound easy to pull the dist. and replace it. I might just do that. Knowing how I do things, I'll try a couple things , before pulling the Dist., but deep down, I know that will be done.

Thanks !!


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

I didn't mean replace it but pull it. That way you can troubleshoot it finding out why: The New rotor and clip still allows about a 1/16" -1/8" movrmrnt of the rotor.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Wise suggestion for those still with points, Fuddy. I like your thinking!

- Joe -


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Hi Guys;

Today I looked it over very closely. Srarted it strarted well, still surging. Checked the hold-down bolts and clips. They had some slack. Mick must not have gotten them as tight as I did today. Might be my Imagination or Wishful Thinking but I thought it ran a Little better, but still surging some. Adjusted the carb. and that didn''t seem to make any difference until I closed the adjustment too far. Then it shut-down. I took the dist. cap off and tried to move the dist. shaft. I don't remember any movement in trying to turn the shaft and very little movement from side to side, I'm talking of 1/64- 1/32".

I remember, when we put the tractor in the garage to work on, it did not surge. At that time it was a 6 volt system. Found the generator was bad. Was going to have it fixed, then decided it was a good time to do the 12 volt conversion. That took a lot longer than imagined. Finally an old farmer and mechanic, One person, and he got it to run. He found I had alo of slop on the rotor and that there was no clip. Bought a New Rotor and clip, seemed to help, but didn't correct the problem.

I had athought while reading on another column. It was in the garage with the carb. mouth uncovered and the muffler uncovered. I might have any assortment of bugs, bees or maybe even a mouse in the carb. How ever silly, tomorrow will see the carb removed and opened. Along those lines, I once took and old tail pipe and muffler off the junk pile my brother had. I beat and banged and got the pipe and muffler secured tight enough for whst I needed. I started the engine and suddenly there was loud apop aand a cloud behind the old truck. I jumped out to look and saw something moveing. It was a mouse. Must have built a nest in the muffler or pipe. The cloud I saw was the remains of it's nest.
So, I wouldn't be too surprised to find something in the carb. It's a long shot, but It doesn't take long. We have some sort of bee looking insect that will fill any hole, no matter how small, with mud and lay it's eggs.

My problem with it being the dist. is it was fine when we put it in the gargage, several months ago. The only difference is the Farmer friend removed the front bucket that was extremely large for a NAA. Empty it msde the rear, filled tires, light on the ground.

I have a New Tractor coming tmorrow or Tuesday. I wanted a JD or Massey-Ferguson, but no-one ever had any near here. Woundup buying a KIoti. I've heard good and bad about all the brands so I was at the point , maybe of desperasation, the Ford was being a pain, as usual so for good or bad I'll have another chance of having a tractor running.

I appreciate you guys advice and Help.
Thank You .


----------



## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

John C. Posey said:


> Hi Guys;
> 
> Today I looked it over very closely. Srarted it strarted well, still surging. Checked the hold-down bolts and clips. They had some slack. Mick must not have gotten them as tight as I did today. Might be my Imagination or Wishful Thinking but I thought it ran a Little better, but still surging some. Adjusted the carb. and that didn''t seem to make any difference until I closed the adjustment too far. Then it shut-down. I took the dist. cap off and tried to move the dist. shaft. I don't remember any movement in trying to turn the shaft and very little movement from side to side, I'm talking of 1/64- 1/32".
> 
> ...



On my second Kioti just upgraded my CS2210 to a CS3510 this year....Have had no major issues with them at all...What did you get?


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

unsquidly said:


> On my second Kioti just upgraded my CS2210 to a CS3510 this year....Have had no major issues with them at all...What did you get?


So far, theonly issue I have had is, "I wish I hadgotten a Larger HP." Same issue many people have. Still trying to get used to it. Going from a NAA to the Kioti is kind of like steppingout of a Model A into a Space Ship. I don't have the most Fansy or Overly equiped, but I am over whelmed with all the lights settings, buttons, levers, etc..
Still tyring to learn what it can do and and which lever, botton is for what. If it holds-up as many have said, I'll be very happy.

You must have had good service , since you bought another one.

Thanks for the reply. Write anytine.


----------



## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

John C. Posey said:


> So far, theonly issue I have had is, "I wish I hadgotten a Larger HP." Same issue many people have. Still trying to get used to it. Going from a NAA to the Kioti is kind of like steppingout of a Model A into a Space Ship. I don't have the most Fansy or Overly equiped, but I am over whelmed with all the lights settings, buttons, levers, etc..
> Still tyring to learn what it can do and and which lever, botton is for what. If it holds-up as many have said, I'll be very happy.
> 
> You must have had good service , since you bought another one.
> ...



Which model did you get? I have had very good service out of both of mine Just a couple of minor issues that were fixed fast by my local dealer.......


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

unsquidly said:


> Which model did you get? I have had very good service out of both of mine Just a couple of minor issues that were fixed fast by my local dealer.......


I got a CK3510HB, it has the HST Drive. I was and still am a little leertof the HST Transmission. I have Arthritis in both knees and in discussion with the Owner of the Dealership, he made a good Case for the HST version . I can still pushdown a clutch pedal, but I don'tknow for how much longer. My other reasoning is I don't do anything very very heavy. Mostly grade the driveway, plow a little snow and if it pulls a disc well, I have a few acresI will disc,to keep fromgetting over grown.


----------



## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

John C. Posey said:


> I got a CK3510HB, it has the HST Drive. I was and still am a little leertof the HST Transmission. I have Arthritis in both knees and in discussion with the Owner of the Dealership, he made a good Case for the HST version . I can still pushdown a clutch pedal, but I don'tknow for how much longer. My other reasoning is I don't do anything very very heavy. Mostly grade the driveway, plow a little snow and if it pulls a disc well, I have a few acresI will disc,to keep fromgetting over grown.



I have the CK3510 SSE HST I use mine for cleaning our horse stalls with the bucket, working up the riding arenas, raking hay, hauling hay with the smaller trailer and other stuff that I don't want to use a bigger tractor for. So far, I have not found anything I wanted to do with it that it would not do. They pull very well for only 35 horse and HST drive....Did you get a FEL with it?

Also, I have a 7 foot offset disc that it pulls just fine......


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

unsquidly said:


> I have the CK3510 SSE HST I use mine for cleaning our horse stalls with the bucket, working up the riding arenas, raking hay, hauling hay with the smaller trailer and other stuff that I don't want to use a bigger tractor for. So far, I have not found anything I wanted to do with it that it would not do. They pull very well for only 35 horse and HST drive....Did you get a FEL with it?
> 
> Also, I have a 7 foot offset disc that it pulls just fine......


Yes, it did come with the FEL. The bucket seems small after being used to the HUGE bucket on the NAA. Who ever installed the FEL on the NAA obviously had no idea of weight trasfer, load balance or the power needed to use such a huge bucket. It was nearly useless . Would have been nice on a D-4 .

Mydisc sounds like yours except it is 5'5" (66").

It is just one I bought at North 40, Farm & Ranch Store. They used to be Big R. I don't know if they are where you are. It's the lighter of the type they sold. I have seen weights of 475# to 600# for it
.I think 475 is most likely.

I'm not an experienced Farmer/Rancher and New to a RUNNING Tractor. Completenovice at Tractors. I have learned a lot from another Member,he has been of great help. But that knowlege is mostly related to the NAA.
I only have a small number of acres andeven less cleared. Old as I am,I have been searching for a crop to plant that wouldn't require back breaking work and still give me a few dollars.

So far I have considered Garlic, Onions, a couple Species of Flowers. Articles on the Internet lead me talk of low work and High profits and then another article will talk of the constant working the ground, irragation, multiple diseases and multiple sprayings.

You have any ideas? I have Arthritis, COPD and the past couple weeks, my lower back has hurt bad. Started as I got up one morning. Came from no where. I had figured I might have slept in some crimped way while asleep. But now I'm wondering.

Hope you are in good health!!


----------



## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

I have the KL4030 FEL with the 66 inch bucket on mine which is just about perfect size for what I use it for since the stall doors on the one horse barn are a 6 foot opening with both doors open.....That gives me 6 inches to spare.....LOL The other barns have 8 foot wide shed rows with 8 foot door openings so that works also. 

The disc that I use with my Kioti is an old drawbar pull disc so having the rear remotes on the Kioti is great. I have noticed that most smaller tractors under about 50 horse don't come with rear remotes standard. Mine has two.

Something else that will come in handy for crops or breaking up new ground is a middle buster plow....I have had one for a couple of years and I love it.....I just got mine at Rural King and it will convert to either a middle buster or a sub soiler...









King Kutter XB Middle Buster/Sub Soiler, Red - MB-S-XB-0


King Kutter's XB Middle Buster/Sub-Soiler combines strength and durability to offer a tool with many uses. Its tubular steel shank and heavy duty frame construction make a solid platform for the furrower to do its job. The middle buster point is great for




www.ruralking.com





It is also good for cutting any type of trench or small ditch and the CK3510 pulls is very well....

As far as crops, are you talking veggies, melons, flowers that that type that you pick and take to a farmers market and sell? 

I know all about that arthritis. I have RA but so far I am able to keep it under control with natural type stuff and no RX...I am 51 but I have a lot of miles on me......I spent 21 years in the Navy as a Seabee and now I drive a semi truck regionally for a health food dist company. We do all of our own unloading to the stores so that helps keep me moving. That and we have horses, cattle and sheep on the farm and we raise our own hay. Also, my step-daughter who is 19 still lives with us and I got her into rodeo about 10 years ago. I don't compete all that much anymore but I still go and help her with her horses and stuff. I was born and raised on a farm and have for the most part, except for a few years early on in my Navy days had some land and animals to take care of. Not that I am an expert but I do have many years of doing this.....I am in Southern Indiana and very familiar with what crops do and don't do well in the different types of midwest soils and I have no problem trying to help you out with finding something for this spring to grow. Also, I can help you figure out all the ins and outs of your Kioti if you need help....


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

unsquidly said:


> I have the KL4030 FEL with the 66 inch bucket on mine which is just about perfect size for what I use it for since the stall doors on the one horse barn are a 6 foot opening with both doors open.....That gives me 6 inches to spare.....LOL The other barns have 8 foot wide shed rows with 8 foot door openings so that works also.
> 
> The disc that I use with my Kioti is an old drawbar pull disc so having the rear remotes on the Kioti is great. I have noticed that most smaller tractors under about 50 horse don't come with rear remotes standard. Mine has two.
> 
> ...



Great Post !

My loader is the KL4030, also.

This is the Disc I will be pulling.

















That Middle Buster looks like it would bejust the thing to use with planting Garlic or onions. Especially garlic. I'm just starting reading about growing garlic. I remember them saying cover the seeds with8" of loose soil 
One problem is I am reading conflicting information on the amount of water they need and the work to plant and harvest.

Wirg my Health problems, I need something to plant that can be done with mostly machinery and harvested the same way.

Garlic is supposed to have a high profit per acre. That's why I'm interested in it. I can't eat it,the COPD would go crazy.

What ever I settle on to plant will be sold at a Farmers Market or Local Grocery Stores.

You have a busy life. Farming, Ranching, Driving and Unloading a Semi. That's hard work. Wish I had that energy !
COPD robs you of energy and the ability to breath. I can get very tired quick. On my Good days, I can keep going for 3-6 hours, if the knees cooperate.

When it warms some, I'm going out to the garage to work on my Ford NAA. One of the things I told the shop to fix is the Hydraulic Punp Leak where it attaches to the engine, they didn't do it.
So now I need to fix it. The known best way is to remove the Hydraulic Manifold first, then remove the pump. The problem with that, this time is I have the gasket for the pump to engine but the "O" Ring Seals for the ends of the manifold are hard to impossible to find here. So, I'm going to try to remove the pump without removing the manifold. May have to reuse the -Rings that are in it.
If things go really Bad, I'll be forced into buying a New Manifold at $360 to $400.

I spent 4 yr. in the Navy '65 - '69, as an Avition Machanist Mate (Jet Engine Mechanic). After that there were many different jobs of many types. Retired as a High Voltage Electrician about 12 yr. ago. 
Why am I just now thinking of a small farm, at 74? Simply $$$$. Things cost far more now than when I retired and the retirement $$$ hasn't kept up.

Thank You and I do and will Appreciate Your Help !!


----------



## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

That small farm might be one of the few things that makes you get out of bed and keep going.....Every man needs a reason to have to get out of bed and get the day going.....Someone in your shoes really needs something some days I am sure.....I lost a very good family friend 01Jan of this year to COVID but he had COPD and other issues for years the COVID was just the last straw for him so I don't know how you feel but I do know what you are going through...

It sounds to me like you have the same " I am not going to give up" attitude that he had and that is very good. 

Thank you for your service and don't ever give up my brother.......

Whatever I can do to help you let me know......I hate to see any decent person with major health problems but it is even worse to me when they are a fellow military brother or sister.....


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

unsquidly said:


> That small farm might be one of the few things that makes you get out of bed and keep going.....Every man needs a reason to have to get out of bed and get the day going.....Someone in your shoes really needs something some days I am sure.....I lost a very good family friend 01Jan of this year to COVID but he had COPD and other issues for years the COVID was just the last straw for him so I don't know how you feel but I do know what you are going through...
> 
> It sounds to me like you have the same " I am not going to give up" attitude that he had and that is very good.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the kind words and justers . As you, I was proud to serve. Something missing in today's young people. They have had everything handed to them and let run wild , parenting. No respect, no understanding what it took to form this nation, and to keep it free. One of the best sayings I have heard that goes over the heads of young people.. "Freedom Isnt Free!!!!"

Thanks for serving our country. Don't give up until GOD calls you.


----------



## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

John C. Posey said:


> Thanks for the kind words and justers . As you, I was proud to serve. Something missing in today's young people. They have had everything handed to them and let run wild , parenting. No respect, no understanding what it took to form this nation, and to keep it free. One of the best sayings I have heard that goes over the heads of young people.. "Freedom Isnt Free!!!!"
> 
> Thanks for serving our country. Don't give up until GOD calls you.



Thanks.................No give up here.............EQCM retired here.......21 years in the Mobile Construction Battalions mainly supporting infantry and light armored Jarheads and SPEC Opps........Not sure if you ever had the opportunity to work with or be around very many Seabees but we don't give up.........We just drink a little more and carry on.......LOL


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

unsquidly said:


> Thanks.................No give up here.............EQCM retired here.......21 years in the Mobile Construction Battalions mainly supporting infantry and light armored Jarheads and SPEC Opps........Not sure if you ever had the opportunity to work with or be around very many Seabees but we don't give up.........We just drink a little more and carry on.......LOL


No, I don't remember knowing any Seabees. I was mainly on Aircraft Carriers. Those big floating cities with an air port.
I was in Vietnam's Waters, but not on land. I have heard some good thing s of the Seabee's. One I liked is a sign left by seabee's during WW2 was on a very important beach landing by Marines.
I don't remember the exact wording ,but it was someting like , "Welcome Marines by the seabees."


----------



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

John C. Posey said:


> No, I don't remember knowing any Seabees. I was mainly on Aircraft Carriers. Those big floating cities with an air port.
> I was in Vietnam's Waters, but not on land. I have heard some good thing s of the Seabee's. One I liked is a sign left by seabee's during WW2 was on a very important beach landing by Marines.
> I don't remember the exact wording ,but it was someting like , "Welcome Marines by the seabees."


Got the Koiti stuck, today. There is an area on my place that is pure fine sand. When I had me driveway re-greaveled the truck driver almost got stuck there. Had to walk back to the garage and get my old Ford NAA to pull it out.


----------



## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

John C. Posey said:


> Got the Koiti stuck, today. There is an area on my place that is pure fine sand. When I had me driveway re-greaveled the truck driver almost got stuck there. Had to walk back to the garage and get my old Ford NAA to pull it out.



LOL......Nice......It is now broke in......LOL I have had mine stuck a few times already......


----------

