# Need electric lift information!!!



## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

Hey guys, I'm fixing to order the electric lift assist for the sleeve hitch from Johnny Products. Before I place my order though, I have a question or two I'd like to get your input on from those who have the electric lift installed on their tractors.

1. Do you find that you have a greater range of lift travel with the electric lift vs. the manual lift? In other words, I'm looking to see if the lift will actually raise the implement higher than what the manual lift does.

2. Where did you mount your switch for the optimal performance? I have the hydro on my tractor, and I tried my rear grader blade out today and found that you really do need 3 arms to steer, regulate speed, and regulate the rear implement with the manual lift arm!  

3. Did you make any modifications to your existing lift mechanism when you installed your electric lift to get more versatility or lift out of the new lift?

I look forward to your thoughts on these questions!

Thanks in advance!


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Tom

I have the electric lift assist that operates through the main tractor lift. I don't see any noticable difference in range before or after installing it

Funny thing is whenever I see a thread asking which to buy, hydro or six speed, I always respond six speed. Contrary to what most say you really have more control and more pulling power with the gear tranny. The hand control hydro really isn't all that user friendly for ground engaging attachments. Now if the hydro had a foot pedal control, it might be OK.


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Tom
> 
> Funny thing is whenever I see a thread asking which to buy, hydro or six speed, I always respond six speed. Contrary to what most say you really have more control and more pulling power with the gear tranny. The hand control hydro really isn't all that user friendly for ground engaging attachments. Now if the hydro had a foot pedal control, it might be OK. *


Well, I think the hydro thing will be manageable, I'll just have to figure me out a little system.  

I did consider the gear vs. hydro when looking to purchase this tractor. However, in the end, I determined that I was still going to be mowing way more grass than using attachments, so I chose the hydro.

I think if I can creatively mount the switch to the electric lift, I can minimize a lot of inconveniences.


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## aegt5000 (Feb 22, 2004)

sixchows and Tom…

Having both foot and hand hydro’s I’d like to put my 2 cents in.

When you’re doing something that requires a lot of direction
changes and implement up / down’s, like plowing, the foot control 
is way to go. But when mowing I’d take the hand control. 
Especially the fender mounted hand control, like the one on the
GT5000. 

It seems like you hand just naturally wants to be right there. 
When you need to slow a tad as you round a turn or reach a slope, 
just a tweak of your hand does the trick. On long straight runs it feels 
good to flex your legs or scratch the ankle itch without missing a beat.

They both have advantages over each other, which is why I again will
invoke the “One-to-One” rule. One tractor for each implement is the
only way to go. It’s the ultimate application for “the right tool for the job”


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## CatDaddy (May 30, 2004)

Perhaps you could mount a switch *on* the hydro lever?


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by CatDaddy _
> *Perhaps you could mount a switch on the hydro lever? *


I'm seriously considering that one. I think I saw a pic somewhere else on here where someone did just that.


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## snowmower (May 19, 2004)

> 1. Do you find that you have a greater range of lift travel with the electric lift vs. the manual lift?


Yes, much higher. Now, with that said, that is with a homemade bracket. Don't know if how John makes them would affect that, but goes up nice and high.



> 2. Where did you mount your switch for the optimal performance?


I have mine mounted in the dash just left of the steering wheel. However, it may not "optimal". I still wish I had an extra arm (like the girls keep saying I do).



> Did you make any modifications to your existing lift mechanism when you installed your electric lift to get more versatility or lift out of the new lift?


The brackets I made have 4 or 5 holes so I can raise or lower the actuator, thereby increasing or decreasing how high or low I can raise the implement.

Scroll back through the craftman posts, I think I posted more pics than most would care to look at. If the links are working, let me know. Also, look for ones by WillieNunez, he was the inspiration for my set up and he made some neat stuff.

Good luck.
SnowMower


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## Topdj (Jun 9, 2004)

http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3939&highlight=sleeve


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

Well, my electric lift shipped today. UPS says its scheduled for delivery on Monday! :argh:

Why in the hell do we have to have weekends? #[email protected]$:


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Boy Tom, you are going whole hog with this tractor   


I have to say. This tractor hobby IS fun, but it sure is addecting!!!!!


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Ingersoll444 _
> *Boy Tom, you are going whole hog with this tractor
> 
> 
> I have to say. This tractor hobby IS fun, but it sure is addecting!!!!! *


Nah, I just want to lay it out right the first time. Plus, its much easier to do all of this stuff to it before you put it into service. Got fortunate and had a good tax year this year refund-wise so I said "get 'er done"!


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## ironhat (Sep 20, 2003)

Hey 'six', Chiz here. I haven't been too active on the forum for a while because of my gunsmithing hobby (sorry guys - not intending to be a leech). Now that spring is sniffin at my backside I've gotta get some tractor work done. I read your post on having an actuator attached to your main lift mechanism. Two questions; 1) Did you use an actuator from JB or did you scavange one from a satellite dish? 2) Was there plenty of room to mount the activator mount? I'm thinking that this is going to require 4 bolt holes 2per brkt) and I'm wondering how to get the drill in bertween the frame rails (don't have a 90* drilling head). 

Later,
Chiz
PS My unit is an '84 GT-18 that I use for plowing snow, the garden, mowing and hauling dirt/ wood/ etc


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Hi Chiz

I used the kit from sears that attaches to the main lift. I'm sure you could mount your own. Topdj made a similar setup on his Husky. Here's a pic of the sears unit on mine.............


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## ironhat (Sep 20, 2003)

So, you're satisfied with the performance vs price, six? I like the idea of connecting to the main lift mechanism so that all of the bases are covered and the unit is out of the way. I had read posts here and 'elsewhere' that the unit was overpriced and performed marginally. I take all of that with a grain of salt but the price is pretty steep if I recall correctly. If I wire up with a scavenged actuator is there anything I need to watch out for in the wiring? I'm assuming an in-line fuse is in order - how many amps?
TIA,
Chiz

Edited to add a sentence and to clarify a point.


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

*Electric lift installed*

Well, since the board was on hiatus, I have since received and installed the electric sleeve hitch lift kit from Johnny Products.

I have to say that it was a very straightforward installation, took all of 20 minutes. 

As far as my concerns about downpressure, lets just say I have no further concerns. I mounted my moldboard plow up just to test the lift out, and when I lowered it all the way down, it picked the rear end of my GT5000 up off of the ground... and that's with 220 pounds of wheel weights on the back end as well!

I mounted my switch on the dash just below the electric clutch switch, to the right of the ignition key. For me, that seemed to be the best place to locate it. I have tried it out using my rear grader blade to move some gravel around in the driveway, and all that was required for me was to set my hydro moving forward slowly, lower my blade and then adjust my ground speed accordingly.

Granted, it will take just a bit of getting used to because of the hydro, but I think those things will be easily adjusted to and it will work out well.

I do have a friend of mine who specializes in fabrication coming over tomorrow afternoon. We're going to look at fabricating a bracket similar to Willie's for the top hitch of the rear lift, in the event I need a bit more lift or lowering ability. I want that flexibility. Then we're going to look at fabricating a front bracket onto my brush guard that will allow me to attach a weight onto the brush guard for the times when I am plowing and want a bit of extra weight on the front end.

It seems that Sears front weight bracket cannot co-exist with the brush guard, and that's just not acceptable for me! So, its a good thing I have friends that know this kind of stuff.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

Tom,
Your just a bundle of energy exercisewa 

Before we know it our going to yank that Briggs and have it blueprinted and dyno'd for top performance:lmao:


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Tom

Just remember those sleeve hitch attchments NEED to float. If they can't something on your tractor will have to give!


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by Argee _
> *Tom,
> Your just a bundle of energy exercisewa
> 
> Before we know it our going to yank that Briggs and have it blueprinted and dyno'd for top performance:lmao: *



Now that's a thought!


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Chiz
You should already have the connecter in the tractor's wiring harness on the left side behind the dash.

The reason the kit is so expensive is because it includes about 3-4 different tractor bracket setups depending on transmissions and pulley location. I think I had more parts left over than I actually used.

I can't understand what was meant by performing marginally. It has the same amount of travel and runs in and out very quickly. If anything it's a little too quick to respond. Sometimes just a slight tap of the switch is all that is needed to set the mower deck. It's certainly strong enough to lift the 8 HP tiller and anything else on the sleeve hitch.


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Tom
> 
> Just remember those sleeve hitch attchments NEED to float. If they can't something on your tractor will have to give! *


Six, somehow I think we're missing each others point.  

I think that you think I'm wanting to plow all the way to China. I'm not. When I refer to downpressure, I mean I want that flexibility to put something down and keep it down when I want it to.

That said, there are plenty of guys out there running these very same actuators to plow, disc, grade and whatever else you can throw on the back of one of these things, and I haven't heard of one case yet where something broke.

The key with the actuator is very similar to hydraulics in the fact that you find your depth (in the case of plowing) and set your actuator at that level. It would most certainly be foolish to think one should just run it out full length to plow.

In short, being a farmboy, I'm not particularly worried about it as I was always taught you keep one hand on the wheel and one hand on the lift to adjust as needed.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Tom
I understand what you're saying about setting the plow to the desired depth and plowing. What I'm trying to figure out is if you try to manually lift your plow can you? Is there any "float" worked into the linkage? There really should be. On my electric actuator lift, I can lift the plow or the mower deck by hand because the free play is built into the brackets. Is this setup from johnnyproducts the same or does it do away with the free play built into the original setup?


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Tom
> I understand what you're saying about setting the plow to the desired depth and plowing. What I'm trying to figure out is if you try to manually lift your plow can you? Is there any "float" worked into the linkage? There really should be. On my electric actuator lift, I can lift the plow or the mower deck by hand because the free play is built into the brackets. Is this setup from johnnyproducts the same or does it do away with the free play built into the original setup? *


Sounds like you're using the older style setup. My lift is not incorporated into the deck linkage. It is strictly confined to the rear sleeve hitch. 

I haven't played with it enough yet to test some aspects of it, as I work 3rd shift and just haven't gotten outside to mess with it yet. I do know that where the hitch pins connect to the frame of the sleeve hitch, there is some free play there. 

I will certainly check on that though in the next day or so and report back to you!


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by ironhat _
> *So, you're satisfied with the performance vs price, six? I like the idea of connecting to the main lift mechanism so that all of the bases are covered and the unit is out of the way. I had read posts here and 'elsewhere' that the unit was overpriced and performed marginally. I take all of that with a grain of salt but the price is pretty steep if I recall correctly. If I wire up with a scavenged actuator is there anything I need to watch out for in the wiring? I'm assuming an in-line fuse is in order - how many amps?
> TIA,
> Chiz
> ...


My lift came with a 30 amp inline fuse.


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## Topdj (Jun 9, 2004)

if you want down force weld a washer on the hanging rods for the deck then put springs on the hangers depending on the 
strength of the spring you can have some downforce without risking damage, just take the springs off for the summer mowing season, lucky for me the deck lift motor is pretty strong.
If you do this with the manual lift your arms will get tired from fighting the springs.
makes a BIG difference on packed down snow removal.


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