# ford 1210 problem



## jhoss6956

I have a ford 1210 4wd diesel hydrostat and it has always worked great until today when i went to move it, it moved about 5 inches and stopped! Everything else works, and fluid and filters are all new. so i rolled it out of my way then went to try it again, as soon as it started i let the clutch out didnt touch the drive pedal and it took off on its own without touching anything! i drove it around and it gradually gained speed but when i push the pedal too reverse it just stops! WHAT THE HELL COULD IT BE??? A linkage maybe?? I know its probly gonna have too be pulled in half and i am ordering a repair manual for it but can someone maybe give me a clue??


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## MFreund

I am not familiar with this tractor, but I hope this helps. I would check the pedals for something stopping the pedal from returning to neutral. I would check the linkage for binding, pivots for binding, broken or missing springs on the pedals. If all else fails, disconnect the linkage and start the tractor and see if it moves on its own. If it did then the problem would be it transmission.

Hope this helps!!


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## jhoss6956

I took off the inspection plate checked the links and the main drive link is excessivly moving toward the pump area, that might be my problem! Thanks!!


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## eholland

did you find the problem? My 1210 just did the same thing i was running it got to where it wouldnt move then it stopped.the hydrostat pedal just flops.
Thanks Eddie


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## jhoss6956

yes i fixed it! what it was, there is a rod that controls the drive, it runs from the pedal assembly to the drive pump (sump), it's identical to a tierod/ draglink used on smaller mowers (the link is on the right side of the tractor, right being when u r sitting on it). the problem was, the rod somehow got loose and unfastened from the balljoints on the pump end of the rod. i took off the inspection cover, grabbed the rod and was able to wiggle it very, very easily which told me something was wrong with it, so if urs does that, i could almost guarntee its my same issue! 

pros- no parts were needed except for more hydro fluid!

CONS--- ): you HAVE TO split the tractor to fix it! 

depending on what info u have on this tractor, i have pics of mine when i split it, and ill try to post it in this response but i have many shots of it, but i may not have one of the rod its self, and i could send u copies of my repair manual page, if u need it, so just send me a email address if u want too! I be glad to help you in anyway!


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## jhoss6956

AND ALSO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! www.messicks.com has parts diagrams listed for free online and thet even list prices!!!! just go to it, click on new holland/ ford link then type in 1210, bunch of crap comes up, just click on, what i believe is the first link, which says ford 1210 compact tractor parts diagram, those diagrams might help alittle!!!


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## eholland

thanks for the reply. I got lucky this time. Mine was a roll pin out that pulls and pushes the rod. I took the inspection plate off and got under the tractor. I grabbed the hydrastat pedal and moved it back and forth. The rod was not moving. Looked real close and saw day light thru a hole when in the rod attached to the pedal and the assembly over that rod lined up. Now I just got to figure out what size roll pin and how to get the thing in. I once had the tie rod come off in the front of the trans assembly .. requirred no parts but the dealer charged $800 to break the tractor down and fix it! I actual talked by phone to a guy on another forum that had the front tie rod come off and he drilled a 1" diameter hole thru the side of the housing and ran needle nose piers thru the hole and reatached the rod without breaking the tractor down. Dealer said that would work but not a good idea if you have a loader on the tractor which i do. They needed a inspection plate on the front of tha tractor also.
Thanks so much for the reply!
Eddie


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## John 1210

Gentlemen, I have a 1210, 4wd, Hydro, which a week ago suffered the same experience. Was pulling my Finish Mower and the Tractor simply discontinued forward progress, wont go either direction, pedal feels quite differant.
Any advise or info you could provide would be much appreciated.
Thanks


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## outdoorsman1201

I have the same problem with mine. Took the cover off and the rod flops around freely. Looks like I will be splitting a Tractor. 

I will post pictures of the process.


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## John 1210

Good Luck with that, it's really not too bad as far as expense, but it is somewhat labor intensive. That linkage has a predetermined length, (10.875 inches I think). At the factory, they assembled one end fully threaded as far as it could go, and then threaded the other end only a couple threads to obtain the desired center to center distance. Unfortunately the tie rod ends are die cast, so the couple threads engagement for the 8mm was not adequate and strips out over time. I simply put an 8mm helicoil in the damaged tie rod end and then centered the rod between the two ends so there would be adequate thread engagement and all was happy.
The only cost I incurred was the cost of the helicoil, and of course I went ahead and put all new fluid in. I will try to confirm that length unless you already have that information.


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## outdoorsman1201

Thanks for the information John 1210. I was not aware of the predetermined length. I just need to free up some time to dig into it.

Karl


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## John 1210

Karl,
I checked the information on the Control Rod, the center to center distance is 10.9 inches, or 278 mm.


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## outdoorsman1201

Thanks for the info John.

I started the process last night. I think 1 more night and it will be split.

Karl


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## outdoorsman1201

Its Split. Here are some pics of the process.


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## outdoorsman1201

http://www.tractorforum.com/members...-hydro-linkage/574-img00113-20101205-1603.jpg


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## outdoorsman1201

Here it is split.


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## outdoorsman1201

And here is the linkage that came apart. Not a good design with only two threads holding.


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## finaddict

Those photos helped alot, my linkage came apart while clearing some underbrush for a deer food plot in the woods. Had to drag it out with the 4 wheeler, in super low with the differential locked. Tractor is in the garage now. Hood, breather and tank are off. Need to drain the fluid and start tearing into it. This could be a 12 pack job!


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## finaddict

Before shot


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## John 1210

*Linkage*

No, it's more like a case job. Had the erxact same issue. When they put those linkages together they were to be 10.875" center to center. So they threaded the first end on all the way, then threaded the second end on to get 10.875", resulting in only two or three threads engagement. I simply helicoiled mine with an 8mm insert, threaded both rod eyes on equally at 10.875" and reassembled. Fortunately the repair of the broken part cost nothing, but the disassembly and reassembly takes hours.


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## outdoorsman1201

Happy the pictures helped. It wasn't actually to bad, 1 evening to tear apart, and 1 afternoon and evening to put back together. Works great now.

Good Luck!


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## finaddict

Needing some advice. Everything that connects the two pieces is apart but I can only get the case split about 1/4 inch. Serious resistance and it's time to put down the crow bar and hammer. I can see absolutely nothing preventing the split and really don't feel to good about getting a bigger hammer. My disassembly looks identical to the two photos from JHoss and outdoorsman.


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## John 1210

If I remember right, you still need to deal with the fork for the throwout bearing, although I don't remember what was involved with this. I was in the exact dilema when a more imformed associate of mine stopped in and brought this to my attention. Once you make provision to clear the fork it should slide apart easily. Hope this helps.


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## finaddict

Sounds about right John, neither photo of the split has loader brackets. I've got loader brackets in the way of the bearing shaft for removal. One photo shows the bearing one does not. But both have the clutch in place but the bearing shaft is actually below the clutch with a snap ring on the right side of the case. There is alot in this thread for others to feast upon should they encounter the same problem and I will post my findings on the throw out bearing fork. I just looked at it today, may take a tool to it tommorrow.


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## finaddict

Sold it for scrap today Time for a new one


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## finaddict

What was preventing the spolit was the suction tube for the HSt which is part number 10 on the HST piping diagram. The diagram is incorrect as to where that pipe connects to the HST but anyway, I thought it was part of the case and not connected to an internal part (the HST). Nothing to do with the throw out bearing or clutch. Pipe needs to be unscrewed and pulled out the bottom. That pipe not available anymore ( I trashed it with the bigger crowbar will find what sticks method) and a machine shop wanted $125 to make it but then came the jacked up tap or die which was odd-ball so you had to buy factory. Well, Mid-South Salvage in Decatur, AL had a couple pipes and it was at my door in a day. Thier number if anyone needs parts is 256-353-5661, good guys.


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## finaddict

the pipe and location with corrected routing on parts diagram


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## finaddict

same linkage problem pictured again, I hope this thread just about clarifies all the problems with a split on the 1210. That dumb-ass that put the linkage together at the factory must have been either a disgruntled employee just giggling his ass off or a newbee with no mechanical common sense whom we should be allowed to stone 30 years later.


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## jhoss6956

Sorry I haven't logged in to help. I gotta use a current Email for this site so I get notified. Anyway, Mine had the same issue with the rod. What I've heard was, in the assembly line, they screwed on side on all the way, then screwed the other on until it matched the set measurement of 10 15/16 inches. Well, it only goes on a few threads and after vibration and movement it loosens and falls off. It's stupid and happens to every 1210. I took JB weld and put it in the threads and around it once I put the rod together. Now it'll NEVER come loose. This is too much work for a stupid rod. Also, when you put the rod together, remember that they're offset. I had the threads pointing in the same position and the JB weld was drying. I had too hurry and fix it before it dried. 

And to everyone else that reads this. I'm not sure if I even have pictures or diagrams anymore. I'll have to search!


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## moparman

*transmission messed up*

My tractor was running good I put 4 foot bush hog on back things were going great then it started wining a little and slowing down. Then it basically quit puiling. When I pushed pedal all the way forward it would do nothing then it would grab a little and move then grab a little and move then sometimes it goes good for a minute or two then it stops pulling the whine is still there. I cleaned the little screen inside the hydro pump and that seems to help just a little now I am going to get a filter the spin on one and rplace it because from the looks of little screen filter it has to be due to be changed then I am putting all new fluid and see what that does. Has anyone else had this happen it seems to work better when it has juist been started also. The pedals seem the same as they were before this happened. I am at a lose if the new filter and fluid does not work. It has 600 hrs on it and runs like new excpect for this issue. Thanks for any help.


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## keneen

Hi all,
Dont want to jump in, but Im new to forums. 
Im in need of a loaded dif. case for a 4x4 1210. The front drive shaft broke off in the case. Lots of damage case and all.

Can any one help?

Ken Wisconsin


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## sixbales

Howdy Ken, welcome to the forum.

Go to tractorhouse dot com on the internet. Scroll down their home page to the "dismantled machines" section. Click on "dismantled machines", then click on "Ford" and then click on "1210". They have twenty eight (28) 1210's listed in salvage. Choose a salvage yard close to you to keep shipping costs down. 

Good luck.


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## eholland

This is the 3rd time my tractor stopped pulling. Here was the problem. A backed out roll pin. It is really hard to find. See pictures







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Take the inspection plate off the bottom. Move the hydrastat pedal back and forth. If the rod it turning but the linkage is not moving this could be the problem.


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## bknla

My 1210 starts up & run fine for about 30 minutes, then start stalling and losing power as if not getting fuel, to the point of a idle then just stop.i changed the filter & bled the injectors.after sitting awhile,it starts & runs ok for awhile, then just starts bogging down again after about 30 min of running again.fuel cup still shows full.gettin frustrated..any advice?


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## sixbales

Hello bknla,

Welcome aboard the tractor forum.

You have an obstruction somewhere in your fuel system. Starting at the top, it might be a plugged air vent in your fuel cap causing you to build vacuum in the tank? Check it out.

The old Fords had several fuel screens in the system. I don't see any fuel screens in your system, but there might be. Check it out.

Next step, close the fuel tank shut off valve. Remove the fuel line at the fuel filter inlet connection. Open the shut off valve and flow test the line into a clean container. You should have free/rush flow of fuel....let it flow for a few minutes to insure that it doesn't subside to a trickle flow.

If all is well, open the fuel line at the inlet to the injection pump and flow check it again.

I once had a blockage in my fuel line (looked like wadded up cobweb). Same symptoms that you describe.


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## bknla

Thanks Sixbale..about to remove the tank now..will update you on the results..


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## bknla

I removed the tank,replaced all fuel lines,removed, chckd & cleaned bowl, put it bac 2gethr..ran well for 1/2 hr, thn strtd doin the same thing..BUT as soon as i crack open the pump bleeder valve jus a bit..the thing opens up & run like hell for over 2 hours as long as the valve is barely finger tighten & drippin fuel..tighten the bleeder valve in 30 min strts doin the same cottonpickin thing..???


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