# john deere 2520 tractor Cab Build



## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I'm new here and looking for advice on building a winter cab. I have an idea of the shape and materials needed. Has anyone completed a project that could share some photos


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

There are a couple of members here that have built their own cabs. Maybe they stop by and offer some insight. Welcome to the forum.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I posted this the john deere forum as well. I thought I'd post a few pictures of my project.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

That is a great foundation for the start of a cab.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Brewers16915 said:


> I posted this the john deere forum as well. I thought I'd post a few pictures of my project.


I'm thinking you may need to educate some of us on how to build a cab! You are certainly off to a good start!


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

pogobill said:


> I'm thinking you may need to educate some of us on how to build a cab! You are certainly off to a good start!


After research, reading forums and looking pictures I began a journey down a path I thought would be easy. I purchased a cab much larger then what I needed and thought I could cut it down, save the glass, roll bar, door hinges, handles and so on. Little did know its not that easy to cut and piece together a cab made by robotic welding. Turned out to be safety glass which I broke. For $200 I purchased a ROPS, door handles, hinges and rubber seal for the window. I'll fabricated the rest.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

This was the donor cab, I can use the roof panel as well.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

The donor cab was off a gravely front mounted mower. I turned out to be too tall, long and wide. So I cut it up. I gave it a GI haircut and took 14" off the top, 6" on the sides and 8" front to back.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I wanted to maintain the intregrity of the tractor. I didn't weld anything or drill any new holes. I also wanted the ability to remove it for the summer. Once I had the rough frame tacked together, I welded mounting plates and used the exsisting roll bar bolts.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Brewer, just so's you know, when you upload photos, if you look at the top of your photo rack at the time of your upload, you'll see where it gives you the option to make each photo full size.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

To secure the front of the cab, I made a lateral extension and mounted it to where the draft arms are mounted to the frame. I welded a plate/nut to the front leg and drilled the lateral extension, one bolt and it can be removed as well. I placed a piece of rubber conveyor belt in between to help with the vibrations and rattling.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

The doors are proving a challenge. I'm using 1 1/2" 14 Gauge square tubing. I have to curve/bend the radius of the fender. My thoughts are, its roughly a 90 degree or 1/4 of the wheel diameter. If I make a 28 cuts with my sawzall, not all the way through the square tubing, I should be able to bend it. Each section will bend 3 degrees. I hope to tack it back together.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

Fun now begins. The radius worked out well so I can begin the door frames. I going for 1 inch smaller than the cab opening.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

14 gauge sheet metal. I'm using 3 inch radius corners


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

you are doing a great job, should look great when you get this finished.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

Critical part to this build is what I would call the "A Pillar". Its a piece of structural steel that will correct the angle of the reat support. It will wrap around the post to secure the rear window and the door hinge. The top will slide up under the horizonal ROPS bar, the botton will secure with one bolt. The ROPS leans forward about 10 degrees. I need this to be vertical (90 degrees) for the door to swing correctly. The doors from the donor cab have a filler piece with a fuel cut out area that is about 12 inches wide. I can slice it up, fill in the fuel filler and weld it back together. Then I'm back to vertical post.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I can hear the laughter now about my welding skills. Let me assure you I make no claims to being a welder. I can make 2 pieces of metal into 1 and thats it. I work as a Cat Scan tech at a local hospital. This is my first major project. I purchased the Miller 211 mig and it has been a learning adventure.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I once heard a saying " Putty and Paint will fix where it Aint" The pillar looks better when primed.







I tried to take a picture of the top connecting point. Just goes on the inside of the ROPS. One bolt on the bottom


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Brewers16915 said:


> I can hear the laughter now about my welding skills. Let me assure you I make no claims to being a welder. I can make 2 pieces of metal into 1 and thats it. I work as a Cat Scan tech at a local hospital. This is my first major project. I purchased the Miller 211 mig and it has been a learning adventure.


you can cheat a bit with a stick welder, but with a mig, the areas to be welded need to be ground clean and shiny, get yourself some "flap discs", magic for cleaning metal and don't throw as much sparks as a grinding disc.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I didn't get very far today, I'm struggling with not drilling or welding on the tractor and making it removeable. I worked on the Cowl around the hood. My thoughts are to make a tight tolerance but I need to be able to raise the hood. The solution in my mind is to make it with 3 pieces and with the seams on the side. It will be a simple overlapping joint.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

Tough night last, lost a member of the "family", After 15 years of hard work and dedication, my 4" grinder layed down to rest. I wont lie, it was sad, that little guy gave 110 % right up to the end. Best $15 dollars I ever spent. So I had no choice but to paint. Break up the monotony of cut, weld, grind . Changed the roof color.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I was able to get some time on the project tonight. I welded plates on the front and rear window openings. This should allow me to remove the window panels with a few bolts.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Miller 211 is a very nice machine, especially with the auto set. I've laid down an unbelievable amount of bead with a 211.




Brewers16915 said:


> I can hear the laughter now about my welding skills. Let me assure you I make no claims to being a welder. I can make 2 pieces of metal into 1 and thats it. I work as a Cat Scan tech at a local hospital. This is my first major project. I purchased the Miller 211 mig and it has been a learning adventure.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

Ran into a new hurdle today. The brake pedal when fully pressed hits the door frame. I haven't permanently altered the tractor to this point, but have to cut the brake pedal off and moved it.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

Put body filler on the doors tonight. Getting closer to paint everyday.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I took a break from fabrication and put the mower back on. I was pleasantly surprised, even with the RPM's and mower, it was solid and didn't rattle. I'm struggling with the door handles, once I work them out in my head, its time to paint and install glass.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Very nicely done. That'll serve you well!


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Brewers16915 said:


> View attachment 46811
> I took a break from fabrication and put the mower back on. I was pleasantly surprised, even with the RPM's and mower, it was solid and didn't rattle. I'm struggling with the door handles, once I work them out in my head, its time to paint and install glass.


Not sure of your location, north too cold in the winter, a heater would be plus or too hot in the summer, AC would be the plus. 

I'm up north. Been looking at CABs for the winter and snow removal. Gets to the minus teens here. A company called Bergstrom makes both OE and aftermarket heaters and AC for Ag tractors. Their biggest customer is John Deere, thus their systems are OE for you and with my Yanmar too. 

Here's one of many that resell the OE units. https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/?ic=16700


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

bmaverick said:


> Not sure of your location, north too cold in the winter, a heater would be plus or too hot in the summer, AC would be the plus.
> 
> I'm up north. Been looking at CABs for the winter and snow removal. Gets to the minus teens here. A company called Bergstrom makes both OE and aftermarket heaters and AC for Ag tractors. Their biggest customer is John Deere, thus their systems are OE for you and with my Yanmar too.
> 
> Here's one of many that resell the OE units. https://www.apairinc.com/shopping/?ic=16700


I'll check that out.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Looks great! Maybe a prop rod on the doors to fasten them open a tad for ventilation on those hot days... kind of like some loaders and dozers have.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I gather parts for the heater, I want it mounted on the top roll bar pointed at the windshield. Thanks to John Deere, EBAY and the local hardware store
View attachment 46987


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## Matt66 (Jul 5, 2019)

Knowing what it was like your doing a great job. I just didn't have the time to do it. But glad to see it working out well.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

The doors, front and back window are back from glass installer, I must say, their heavy. There's alot of trim work to do, then door handles.


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## Matt66 (Jul 5, 2019)

That is coming along nicely. Looks as good as a factory cab.


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## Dmfoste1 (Apr 22, 2019)

Just a thought, you could use a hurricane hinge where the lower portion across the hood meet and lift it first, to clear the hood. I say hurricane hinge because it'll deflect water out. Same type of hinge is used on camper shells. I used one on rear door of a teardrop trailer I built a few years ago. They work great. Keep up the good work!!!


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Mighty fine looking job there Brewers. Getting after it for sure.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

A work of art in the making.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

Dmfoste1 said:


> Just a thought, you could use a hurricane hinge where the lower portion across the hood meet and lift it first, to clear the hood. I say hurricane hinge because it'll deflect water out. Same type of hinge is used on camper shells. I used one on rear door of a teardrop trailer I built a few years ago. They work great. Keep up the good work!!!


Not sure what that is, do you have a picture? I bought automotive bulb seal, usually found around car doors and the trunk.


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## Dmfoste1 (Apr 22, 2019)

Here's a pic from the internet. This is the end view. Usually it has to overhang the ends a bit to wick water away. The come in varying lenths, cut to fit.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

That looks heavy duty, I like the flexible seal of bulb seal, forgiving on the paint.


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## Brewers16915 (May 31, 2019)

I finished the door handles and latching mechanism this week. And attached a prop/retainer to the of the doors. Dont know what the correct name is but it stops the door from swinging open wildly.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

restrainer will do


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

That cab is looking might fine Brewers16915!


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