# Snapper won’t start no 12VDC at starter



## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Snapper won’t start no 12VDC at starter


I have tested the ignition switch w/ key on I have continuity to all wires from ground except the blue trigger wire.


When I turn the key to start I have continuity so I assume the switch is normal.this is a switched 12VDC.


When key is start position I get 12.7VDC at the back of ign.switch same as input of soliniod which is a direct connection from battery referrred to a constant power..
no voltage out of soliniod to starter.

so I extend a grey wire spliced to blue behind switch however when I connect to trigger spade 3rd terminal of soliniond voltage is reduced down from 12VDC to 2-5VDC fluctuates increasleing not past 5VDC.


I’m suspicious of the new soliniod functioning correctly.


Here’s a few image maybe I missed something.

additional my snapper came w/ a 3 terminal soliniod I replaced w/ a 4 terminal wear I scraped off paint to expose bare grounding framework.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I believe the solenoid grounds from the 4th terminal, not through the body of the unit, as was mentioned earlier.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Here is a picture showing a basic wiring:
https://isavetractors.com/product_images/uploaded_images/starter-solenoid.jpg
Let us call the four posts:

Battery
Starter
Switch
Ground

What is connected to the different posts on your solenoid?


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Hacke said:


> Here is a picture showing a basic wiring:
> https://isavetractors.com/product_images/uploaded_images/starter-solenoid.jpg
> Let us call the four posts:
> 
> ...


yes youre image is exactly how I have it wired.

pogo bill I have tryed the trigger on either side of small terminals all the videos say they can be switched,

since I'm bypassing possiable bad sensors there must be something wrong w/ the new soliniod after very close observation I see the upper small triggers terminal isn't secure in the case it has a slite wobble another chinese part causing problems and wasting time.

couple weeks ago I adjusted the valves and got her up and running parked her for a few weeks now this no start.

I'm thinking my no start issue is a malfunctioning safety switch
will reinstall the old USA soliniod use new grey wire to bypass.

pogo I have the small ground terminal wired to soliniond mount.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Disconnect the wires on the small posts and try the solenoid with two known good wires directly from the battery posts. Then you know if the fault is in the solenoid, or the battery.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

actually I have attempted jumping the the 2 big terminals even w/ the key start position no jump of votlage from solinoid in to soliniod out I thought something wasn't quite right.

edit when this soliniod clicks it's nurmerous not just one click.

after a couple hours I found the old soliniod will report back.thanks


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

*One last time--you have two separate systems for starting, there is the very simple engine start circuit --- from battery to switch and then to solenoid and then to starter, simple no sensors in the way of cranking the engine, if the circuit is continuous when the ignition key is switched to start position, the starter will crank the engine, simple and not much to check mate.

It has been written on how to do the very easy testing checks and it is not hard at all to do these, --- like hook a jumper to the +positive pole on the battery and with the other end touch the start tag on the solenoid, --- this will tell you if the solenoid is working, --- bridge across the two heavy poles on the solenoid and this will or should crank the starter, and this will show if the starter is ok and the solenoid is not, again simple.

Secondly --- the sensor system is separate from the start system, --- all this does is earths out the coil as a safety should the blades be engaged and the operator is not sitting on the seat, so forget the sensors while you are trying to fathom out the start system.

The chattering you are getting from the solenoid is from either a stuffed battery or a not so good earth in your system.---- have you replaced the battery yet ????.

And in the first and second photos, you have a very squashed red positive wire that goes to the fuse holder, may pay to check that also, there may be fractured wires inside the cable.

The best of luck in getting your Snapper started.*


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

TheBrain said:


> actually I have attempted jumping the the 2 big terminals even w/ the key start position no jump of votlage from solinoid in to soliniod out I thought something wasn't quite right....


That result says nothing about the solenoid's status, but it says that eiher the wiring from battery to solenoid, or the wiring from solenoid to starter and back to battery, is bad. Or the battery is dead.



> ...edit when this soliniod clicks it's nurmerous not just one click....


That result indicates that not enough energy is fed to the solenoid coil. Bad wiring or dead battery.

Are you still testing with the solenoid coil connected through the key switch?
You have too many variables.
Remember that even if you measure the correct voltage at no load, it can drop dramatically when you put a load on. Bad wiring gives high resistance in series with your solenoid coil, and the voltage across the coil dives.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Oh, dear...there is an old thread about this:
https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/07-snapper-rer-dead-in-the-water.45199/


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Hey Brain,
Why is it you can sometimes type and compose your answers very fluently and with large adjectives, but still insert solenoid spelled incorrectly. And you don't follow advice. 
Are you trying to sucker us old boys or take us for fools. Something stinks about your posts. I'm finished with this thread.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Do you have a manual for your tractor? Here's an owners manual.
https://c.searspartsdirect.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0807733.pdf

You really need to go back and review all of the information that has been given to date. I'm sure if you do, and follow the advise given by the members, you will be successful in getting your tractor in running order. There are not a whole lot of parts between the key and the engine, and pretty much everything has already been covered, and your questions have been answered. In the mean time, you seem to refuse to either follow *all* of the steps in the advise that is given, or refuse to answer simple questions like "Did you get a new battery"! You said your old battery failed the load test at the shop, so unless you have replaced the unit, you are still going to have trouble. When you turn the key and hear the repeated clicking sound, it could be a good indication the that battery does not have enough power to start the tractor.... as mentioned above.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

pogo yes I've had the owners manuel since the beginning.

I've put the old solenoid back on and redid the tempuary grey wire.

so now w/ the new battery ( I thought I mentioned as I also mentioned that I took 2 batterys to the auto store I was mistaken the bad battery was the tow vehicles not the snappers it just got a quickie charge never tested)
) there is 12.7VDC at trigger zero to starter. attempted jumping the 2 large terminals result nothing.must this jumping be done w/ key in start position, if yes this will require x amount of weight on the seat to close the circuit correct, like I can turn the key, hold the wire but this can't be done w/ me seated, need the seat weighted down.

I wasn't forcefull when attaching the trigger wire to the new solenoid these part must have been defective when purchased.will get replacement and report back.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

cruised by lowes picked up a troy bilt solinod none of the terminals are labled wtf. I've tryed every concevable combonation

taking this crape back to lowes. could'nt even get this turd to click

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Troy-Bilt-...VBe21Ch3OSwJPEAQYASABEgIigfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

can't email troy bilt customer service is a bot (robot) put on hold for ten minutes dam I ready to punch someone.
I searched made a pissed off review now I have these a$$hole email [email protected]
privacy means they hate you and don't want to contact you unless it serves there agenda.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Lowes has a question forum like amazone so I'll wait for lowes customers to respond.
dam I was stupid to buy a unlabled soliniod.

since tb f-ed me over there getting a review.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I will bypass the safetey w/ the grey wire again.



FredM said:


> *.
> 
> .
> 
> ...


this is bogus advice there's a safetey switch interferring w/ ignition. are you old boys suckering me.
I definity got better things to do than wastse time on old farts.
goto 8minute mark of video





at 15:42 he explains the 2 small terminals can either be the trigger or the ground, but never mentions which is soliniond in & out. is it possiable when I guessed since troy bilt provides no instructions I ruined the new soliniod?

can I bypass the SS w/ a single wire from ign.switchs blue wire it's the soliniods 12VDC trigger.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

called the lawn mower shop asked about the brake switchs location also explained how I had to stand on the brake to get ignition.

now I know these cables require adjusting will watch this.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

notes to myself
the tube at end of cable requires relaxed spring in park should be 3/4"


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Find me the sensor in the start circuit !!!. remember you have the start circuit and the run circuit, 2 different circuits.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Update: when mearsuring relaxed brake spring observed only ¼” from spring to end of black tube. I adjusted to the spec.s ¾” result she’s alive, starts, blade engages however when letting off clught she dies.


So now I know the ignition, seat switch wiring and starter works. Probably didn’t even need the solniod.


I thought I was adjusting the brake evidentially it’s both clught and brake.


So I readjusted reducing the tension, still no joy.

Currently Reduced to adjusting clught back where it was and hope it’s just the switch.


I believe the brake safety switch is referred to as the delta interlock switch this

https://www.jthomasparts.com/430-70...VmYzICh2VowsNEAQYBiABEgIKbPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


looked around the footlever no switch. There is a electrical switch in the aft. Of mower I circled it.

Will remove clean and test.


Also my intent is not to offend so hope none is taken.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

difficulty w/ adjusting brake/clutch I put it back exactly like previously.

she starts but when letting clutch out she dies


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

update:when in neutral I press brake pedal half way and the yoke is parrel to ground.
secondly I removed one of the cables ferrot still dies.

I release about 1/8" of tension at the adjuster she still dies not even a little improvement when letting off clutch/brake. in both 1st gear and reverse.

look at the amount of slack in the transmission cable 1st image is neutral second in 5th seams like alot of slack I never noticed since ownership 6 yr ago.
red snapper season which is a big deal down here opened last friday I can't go until the lawn is cut.


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## Lawdawg86 (7 d ago)

I’m having the same issue. I took mine off because it was only clicking with the key on. I could jump the posts on the solenoid and get it to start, but that’s only if I crossed the terminals. I’ve bought two solenoids for this lawnmower within the past 5 years. This Snapper has been a nightmare ever since I got it new. I took the solenoid off, cleaned it, all the posts were cleaned with a wire brush and hooked back up exactly like I had it. Except now when I turn the key on, there’s not even a click. It won’t do a thing. If I had my power probe I could see what’s going on but with my multi meter I could see it’s getting 12v to the bottom post of the solenoid but not the top. If these things are that susceptible to going out, I may need two or three😆, seriously though I’m going to go tomorrow and try to figure out what changed, because all I did was clean the posts and the frame, as well as connectors. 


j


TheBrain said:


> Snapper won’t start no 12VDC at starter
> 
> 
> I have tested the ignition switch w/ key on I have continuity to all wires from ground except the blue trigger wire.
> ...


f was


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Don’t they ground thru the body.??
Wire wheel the panel it’s bolted to.!!


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## Rolex (11 mo ago)

Also use a test light and check for power on the yellow wire when the switch is in the start position. 

A multi meter is not so good for this test.


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## Lawdawg86 (7 d ago)

Rolex said:


> Also use a test light and check for power on the yellow wire when the switch is in the start position.
> 
> A multi meter is not so good for this test.


I used my Snap On test light that showed digital readout and it showed around 5v. I used the multimeter to verify what my test light was reading. I didn’t even hear a click after I reassembled it. Before it would just click, but I could jump it between the lugs with a screwdriver to make the connection.


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## Lawdawg86 (7 d ago)

thepumpguysc said:


> Don’t they ground thru the body.??
> Wire wheel the panel it’s bolted to.!!


I mentioned that in my post. I cleaned the entire solenoid, and wire wheeled the mating surface on the solenoid and body. So I’m going to go back in a while and verify I have a constant 12v with key on, at the terminal. I’m willing to bet the contacts are burned up in the solenoid. This lawnmower has had 1 replaced about 6 months after owning it, and then this one is doing about the same. I’ll go back later on and try it all over again, and then if I can find a replacement I’m buying one. Our lawnmower shop is closed for the season, so I’ll have to check one more place or go to Oreilly’s


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## Lawdawg86 (7 d ago)

Fixed the issue, the solenoid was bad. I took it off and bench tested, then had another one laying around I found and tossed it on there and fired right up.


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## Rolex (11 mo ago)

If you have a low voltage situation you will burn up solenoids real fast.

As the volts drop the AMPS go up and with a low voltage you get poor contact, burning the surfaces. 

I don't know your tractor but why would it only get 5v not 12v ?

If it should have 12v you could have a poor connection, bad wire or ignition switch 

Until you get full volts and a good ground you will continue to burn up solenoids


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Lawdawg86 said:


> Fixed the issue, the solenoid was bad. I took it off and bench tested, then had another one laying around I found and tossed it on there and fired right up.


Most times these little solenoids can be repaired, likewise the heavy solenoids on starter motors can be also, drill out the 4 rivets holing the base, remove to expose the pull in coil, probably find that the light pullin wire to the connector has burnt off the tag, unwrap one round, clean the enamel from wire and tin (solder) the end and solder back onto the tag, 4 pop rivets to hold base and good to go, done many like this and the same for the heavy solenoids, mainly cleaning the contacts though.


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## Rolex (11 mo ago)

The average off the shelf solenoid will require 12v not 5v to operate. 

It you can only get 5v a relay could be fitted to boost a full 12v to the solenoid activation. 

Your solenoid and starter motor will love you for the upgrade.


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