# Flail mower?



## Chris

I ran across a old Ford Flail mower in rusty cosmetic condition but in good mechanical condition (actually first time I have actually seen one up close!) while visiting at a friend's place last night. It appears to be a Ford 72" mower (still has Ford metal plate decal with part and serial number etc) that was used to maintain athletic fields and golf course areas. The mower still works and the roller unit was replaced last year and the current owner doesn't use it enough to justify keeping it. Even with the rust, there is only a couple places where I might like to weld a new plate for support etc. 

I was thinking in lieu of having a nice finish mower, that this unit might provide me a nice cut on some of my open pasture areas. Perhaps even a better cut than my bushhog. I really want to get some insight on flail mowers in general as I am not familiar with them. I do understand that in the drum construction they spin off of the differential with the 540 PTO speed and the chains spin around and "flail" the ground/grass and make a pretty decent cut, supposedly much cleaner, quieter and less dangerous to use near people and houses, public places etc. Anyone have any insight into operating, cut quality or anything else? Parts availability? Who made these units for Ford?

I was going to see about cleaning it up, restoring and painting this unit (preferably to match my 8N --- red) -- I know it was originally the Ford xxxx series blue, but you all know how I love Ford Red! 

Thought it might be a good addition to the barn stuff. 

Thanks,
Andy


:tractorsm


----------



## Ingersoll444

My Dad had one on an old Farmall C. worked good. Don;t realy have anything to compair the cut to though, he used it to keep the brush down in a junk yard he owned. It WAS noisy though. Thoses flails make a racket.


----------



## slipshod

*Andy*

A flail would sure be a nice addition, and I think it will do a nice job on your converted pasture area. As to the noise Paul mentioned it is not an issue if you use it for grass and weeds, they are not meant for cutting brush. On the end of each chain is a replacable knife and if they are sharp it does a super mow job.
The flail will not pick up and throw rocks like a brush hog but like any mower you do not want anybody in harms way when you run it. I have my eye out for a Mott flail to fit a cub.


----------



## jodyand

Thats what the city uses to mow with here does a good job.


----------



## Chris

You think it is worth the $200 asking price for a working good condition flail in need of some TLC on the exterior (it is rusted all over and will need a complete resto for looks) There is one spot near the hitch where water must have stood for periods of time and that has a couple holes through the metal. Was thinking I could get it blasted (if there is enough metal left - haha) and then repaint the unit and keep it stored.

Any concerns with the extreme exterior rust and/or ideas for best restoration on it? I think replacement blades/parts are available and if not already --- this unit should be an antique soon! In its exterior condition it looks like one right now! 

I think it would be a fun unit to have around the place and would love to give it a go on some of the low-cut pasture grass areas. At 6' wide it should get it cut pretty quickly and nicely. As far as the racket, well its gotta be less than my wife can muster. 
:furious: :furious: :furious:


----------



## Argee

I think it's well worth $200....if you get it, rather than having it sandblasted try some of that Ospho on the rust...it neutralizes and stops it...leaves the surface black and paint ready with no removal of material.


----------



## Chris

Ospho? Do you have any link, supplier or pricing info on this?

Thanks!
Andy


----------



## Argee

> _Originally posted by admin _
> *Ospho? Do you have any link, supplier or pricing info on this?
> 
> Thanks!
> Andy *


Go to your local ACE Hardware...


----------



## Chris

I found it! 

Ospho
Stops rust, prepares rusted surfaces for painting. Ospho is a primer-not a paint. You do not have to remove tight rust. Merely remove loose paint and rust scale, dirt, oil, grease and other accumulation with a wire brush. Apply a coat of Ospho-let it dry overnight, the apply the paint. Whe applied to rusted surfaces, Ospho causes iron oxide (rust) to chemically change to iron phosphate-an inert, hard substance that turns tne metal black. One gallon covers 600 square feet. 

I can order a quart of this for about $12.00 (I think 150sq foot coverage will be ok) --- Thanks for the insight on this, Argee. I was concerned about losing too much metal with the blasting.
I will still weld a support plate over the corroded areas and then coat it and then paint it. I need to find a good paint that will yield decent results. I was thinking about going red to match all of my other Howse implements and my 8N but the "true" color scheme of course is Ford xxxx series (NH) series blue. Any comments on this? My opinions is that it is not a collector item but merely something for me to use. Seems like a good fun project. 



Andy


----------



## Argee

If your not concerned about keeping it "pure" then go for it!!!

A lot of farmers use to buy new equipment and paint it to match their own color scheme.


----------



## Live Oak

> _Originally posted by admin _
> *Ospho? Do you have any link, supplier or pricing info on this?
> 
> Thanks!
> Andy *



Ospho Metal Treatment


----------



## Live Oak

What condition are the cutter knives in?


----------



## Chris

Good condition. Blades, belts, roller were replaced recently. It looks pi$$-poor as an implement (I am not one of those that thinks that rust makes something look nice and aged) The side Ford script decal is still in great shape as well as the original Ford metal data plate. I think a good loose rust brushing, prep, treatment and painting will really make this unit shine. Should I paint/treat the underside of the implement likewise? I would guess Yes --- as rust will continue to eat from the inside out.
The chains links (??) that hold the blades are all rusty colored likewise. It simply appears that it was left out and not cared for by someone or some department. In any case, it should be a cool project and learning experience. 

Are parts (replacement blades, chains, rollers, etc) readily available still for this early Ford Flail mowers? (I don't know the part number yet)

Thx,
Andy


----------



## Live Oak

If in good mechanical condition and the rust is just cosmetic; that is a heck of a bargain. A new flail mower can cost upwards of $4,000 or more.


----------



## bontai Joe

Flail mowers for garden tractors cost more than $200. I think that if it is in currently useable condition, it is a bargain. From your description, it sounds like mostly it just needs cosmetics.


----------



## Chris

Well this unit is a little larger than anything that a simple garden tractor can handle. It requires 3pt & at least a decent PTO HP and ability to pull it and its 750-1000#s. I think it is a really good deal and I will keep ya'll posted. I think once it is done it is really going to make a nice extra implement and due to the relatively compact drum size of it --- it shouldn't take up too much room (at least in width) 

Andy


----------



## Chris

Good recommendations! I am going to look at getting it home, pressure-washed (Thanks Chief for this idea), cleaned, dried and treated with the Ospho, then painted with Ford Red Enamel rattle can. I usually use a HVLP gun but that is for bigger projects and it is over at my neighbors place. I think with that and cleaning of metal plate and logo, it should really make a nice piece.

Thanks for the insight. 
Andy


----------



## jodyand

Well we want pictures of before during and after


----------



## Chris

Well, since I have yet to get a utility trailer of my own... I guess I will have rent one and then hightail it over there (about 20 miles) then drive it back home, return the rental trailer and then get back to taking pictures!


----------



## jodyand

CHOP CHOP what are you waiting on:lmao:


----------



## luckycharms

Admin:

A flail mower (in my experience) is often referred to as a type of finish mower. It consists of a horizontal shaft with numerous cutter heads flexibly mounted. As the shaft turns (driven off the PTO via a differential and belts) these cutters "flail" the grass/weeds/etc. They produce a much smoother cut than a bush hog and are usually only recommended for grass/weeds.

The flail is a little more maintenance-free than most other cutters..and will take more abuse than a true finish mower..the flail of mine has the full length roller on the rear, and it does smooth the bumps out( and mole hills)...it is pretty heavy..Blades are about $2.oo each and there are 39 of them on mine...have only had to change them once two years ago, and they are still sharp..

Mine won't cut brush...I have to use a Bush Hog for that...
I wouldn't want to use a finish mower in a pasture...I think it is too hard on the mower..mine is a side-discharge 72" 3-point..
A finish mower is a good outfit for doing a nice job, but it sounds like you got a good deal on this unit. I paid $750 for my setup and it was in basically decent mechanically condition but nothing fancy. I have seen newer 72" models go for $3000 and above.

-LC


----------



## Argee

Great information luckycharms....hey we haven't heard from you in quite a while...good to know that your alive and well...don't make yourself a stranger here at TF, we need all the help we can get:lmao:


----------



## luckycharms

Why thanks for the kind words. I have been quite busy, but received the email from Andy (he is a good guy) a few weeks ago about my inactivity for the last few months. I got back on today and saw where there has been over 30,000 posts since my last connection. Needless to say, I will just review the last couple of days when I get a chance. Great site here --- see you soon.

-LC


----------



## Chris

Welcome Back, Lucky. Hope to see you around more often.

Andy
Bye


----------



## Ingersoll444

$200!!!!!!!

For that money you would be a fool NOT to get it. I would not mind having one. Used to work on my dads and other then changing a few knives once in a wile, we did nothing to it. His was a Mott. Also seems that they use a little less power then the same size brushcutter. His was a lot wider then the IH C he had it on,[don;t know the size] but it never seemed to lug whatever he was cutting.


----------



## Chris

That was my initial thought on it. I had really never seen an older flail unit up close in person, EVER! Heck I didn't really know much about it. Friend told me "That's a Ford Flail mower" --- I thought, "Oh great some other rusted-out piece of junk that nobody wants" --- Climbed over it, looked under it and was thinking it would certainly look extremely pretty restored, primed and painted. Especially to a nice shiny non-original Ford 8N red enamel!  I still think original blue with decals would be better for resale, all of my other implements are Howse Red.... so red it
shall become! I hope to be able to pick it up soon. The guy is holding it for me! 

Andy


----------



## Chris

Paul, one more thing --- What is the technique for changing the blades? What kind of attachment mechanism do the flail blades have to the chain pieces etc? They must use a good technique as most people never mention losing any of them or having them fly off or anything. 

Thanks for the insight. I plan on getting a manual as soon as I discover the proper part number. 

Andy


----------



## Ingersoll444

> _Originally posted by admin _
> *Paul, one more thing --- What is the technique for changing the blades? What kind of attachment mechanism do the flail blades have to the chain pieces etc? They must use a good technique as most people never mention losing any of them or having them fly off or anything.
> 
> Thanks for the insight. I plan on getting a manual as soon as I discover the proper part number.
> 
> Andy *



WOW your bringing me back about 25 years there Andy. I realy dont remember . I do know there was some kinda hanger that held two "L" shaped knives. When hung they looked like an upside down T. Never remember losing one, or having THAT much trubble replacing them, but realy cant remember how they were on. Only reaskn we would have to change them is that the leg of the L would wear off. 

Sorry I cant help more.


----------



## Argee

> _Originally posted by Ingersoll444 _
> *WOW your bringing me back about 25 years there Andy. *


I see, even at your age your suffering from CRS:lmao:


----------



## MowHoward2210

Failure to properly maintain the flail blades could result in instant "*"Flailure"*


----------



## Chris

:furious: :furious: :furious: 

Good one there, Moe!


----------



## Ingersoll444

> _Originally posted by Argee _
> *I see, even at your age your suffering from CRS:lmao: *



LOL normaly pretty good at the long tearm stuff also. It's the short trem stuff I lose quick........I'm sorry what was I saying????


----------



## Toolman

We had a Mott 72" flail mower that discharged out the top rear. It did a good job mowing, but it was real bad about scalping.


----------



## luckycharms

Any update, Andy? Did you get the mower unit back and start any work on it? Should be a really interesting project. Best of luck to you. 

-LC


----------



## Chris

Thanks for the info, LC. I tried to pick it up this weekend but I couldn't find the time. I have to go rent a trailer since I don't have one to use and I was simply too busy this weekend. Maybe I could get him to deliver it for a fee?  Might been easier and quicker than doing it on my own. It is only about 20 miles. 

Maybe sometime this week. Will keep you updated.
Andy


----------



## Chris

Going to try to get it picked up this weekend. Hopefully it will work out! I will take lots of pics and keep you posted!!!


----------



## Live Oak

So what is the latest with the flail mower Andy? Did you figure out a plan to pick it up this weekend?


----------



## Chris

Nope...Planned to get it today but I had a late meeting at church about a mission trip then I went to see my family visiting a family friend at their neighborhood (subdivision) pool. Got too late after the meeting, so maybe sometime this week. Arrrgh! 

Andy


----------



## Chris

Going to try to go down today. Just realized that my neighbor borrowed my boom pole a while back and I need to get it back for this transport. Fun Fun Fun.  ---------


----------



## Chris

I am off to pick up the flail mower...Wish me luck. I might need it as long as my 8N doesn't slip over under the load. Egads!

:duh:


----------



## jodyand

So Andy have you made it back with your mower:question: Wheres the pictures:tellyou:


----------



## Chris

*UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!*

Got it home! Boy I got some goodies! Guy gave me 6 boxes full of parts, extra blades, collars, hooks, bearings, belts etc! I have over 100 new blades in box! (Those alone for over $2/ea!) --- Got
the whole unit plus extras for $200 plus the guy followed me home, helped me unload and let me use his trailer! Simply couldn't have gone smoother! 

The unit is rough shape and nothing to look at now but mostly all cosmetic! I have a few areas to mend and weld up. I spent about 15 mins with a wire brush on one part and it already looked pretty smooth. Picked up quart of Ospho, Rust-o-Leum Industrial 15oz. Red rattle cans and one black can for hitch frame and drive shaft. I think it will be one very nice and rewarding project! 

I took about 20 pics, here is a couple for you for now.

<img width=640 height=500 src=http://www.tractorforum.com/htdocs/flail/01090001.JPG>
<hr>
<img width=640 height=480 src=http://www.tractorforum.com/htdocs/flail/01090008.JPG>
<hr>

-Andy
:tractorsm


----------



## Chris

One more...

<img width=640 height=480 src=http://www.tractorforum.com/htdocs/flail/01090003.JPG>


----------



## jodyand

Some cleaning and paint, grease all the bearings check your blades and you'll be ready to go.


----------



## Chris

Yep, PO just replaced the bearings, rollers, belts and blades about a year ago. So all looks and works good! I will definately drain the gear box and refill. Does anyone know the recommend spec? I was going to use 80/90w gear oil. Any suggestions or anything else to consider?

Thanks,
Andy


----------



## Live Oak

That does not look to be in bad shape at all! A good clean up and paint and that is going to be a very nice implement! You got a heck of a bargain. :thumbsup: How much did you end up paying for if you don't mind my asking?


----------



## jodyand

Chief you didn't read his post did you:winky:


----------



## Live Oak

> _Originally posted by jodyand _
> *Chief you didn't read his post did you:winky: *


Never mind. CRS! :duh: I am nursing a real bad headache today. Chalk another up for me!


----------



## Chris

$200 for everything ----- including all of the extra goodies... plus basically free transport, unloading help, etc! 

I am excited! 

:lmao:


----------



## yota man

Looks like you got one heck of a deal. You lucked out ill give you $250. for it.


----------



## Ingersoll444

SEWEEEEEEEETTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!


Looks like a nice peice you got there, A REAL bargon also.


----------



## Chris

I got back home after out softball game tonight (we won 11-10 in the bottom of the last inning!) We are in 1st place and my 4 of my players (including my daughter at 1st base) are going to All-Stars
and I get to coach the team in the tourney! 

I got it wire brush sanded, air blower, and then pressure washed, dried and then painted with Ospho. By tomorrow it should have changed colors as the iron oxide turns to good iron phosphate - an inert, hard substance that turns the metal black.
I might put on a 2nd coat of Ospho and then wait and then paint
with Rust-O-Leum Industrial enamel red. 

Should be fun!


----------



## luckycharms

Looks like you got a simply fabulous deal. I hope that it turns out as nicely as you imagine. Are you going to weld up any potentially rotten areas or redo any joints? Check it over and make sure you treat the undercarriage of the unit --- rust does occur from both sides. As long as you keep it clean and stored (out of the elements and keep away the standing water in the ridges) it should last a long time. Are planning to restore it originally back to the blue color?

Keep us posted with pics and information. 
-LC
:lucky: :lucky: :lucky:


----------



## Chris

Lucky, I have a few pieces where I am planning to weld some new flat iron for support etc. There are a few joints that could use a little touch up. Going to probably go back and replace all of the hardware on the entire unit. Every bolt, nut, washer, etc. Heck if I am restoring it, I might as well spend the extra few bucks and get all of the parts updated. Still need to drain the gear box and take a looksee inside to verify wear. Same thing with the roller unit and bearing. I know they were recently replaced but I just want to make certain everything is in good running shape. 

:elephant:


----------



## Chris

> _Originally posted by Argee _
> *I think it's well worth $200....if you get it, rather than having it sandblasted try some of that Ospho on the rust...it neutralizes and stops it...leaves the surface black and paint ready with no removal of material. *


Wanted to thank you again, Argee for your recommendation of the Ospho stuff. I didn't have any experience with this and it really did help me tremendously on this project. Appreciate your insight and recommendation.

Andy
:cheers:


----------



## waynl

What a sweet deal! I would have had to haggle for 3 days to get the same mower for $450, and then pay extra for the parts the PO has no need for.

I would pop open the box, also. Amazing how some will run with water, rust, etc. in 'em. That should also confirn the need for gear oil, you can't mistake that smell for ANYTHING else. Good luck with your project.

waynl


----------



## Chris

Waynl,

Any caveats with popping the whole gear box open? Hopefully nothing big will fall out! HAHAHA 

Andy


----------



## slipshod

*Wrong if you don't*



> _Originally posted by admin _
> *Waynl,
> 
> Any caveats with popping the whole gear box open? Hopefully nothing big will fall out! HAHAHA
> 
> Andy *


 I think you have to pull the cover off the back and take a look before you paint the unit. If something big falls out it needed to come apart anyways.


----------



## slipshod

*caveats?*

"Caveats" Why would there be fish eggs in there?


----------



## waynl

Hey, I said there could be water in there!

If you are concerned about something popping out, I'd take the unit off the 3 pt, roll it over onto it's "nose" then take that back cover off. Keep track of any gaskets and/or shims that might be there, they probably adjust the bearings on the main shaft. can't see the front of gear box from the pics, but it looks like it might be 1-piece, sorta like the punkin on a car rear axle.

The "trusting" way would be to simply drain the box and observe the oil. If it looks good and you have normal backlash on the gears and no play on the shafts, install new oil and leave it be.

waynl


----------



## Chris

Well, got home for lunch and decided to apply another coat of Ospho to help it along. It was turning white in some areas and actually the rust was being pulled off and the original blue paint was being revealed in lots of areas. Of course, I turn my back and go inside to get my phone and it starts to rain! Lasts barely longer than it does to grab a 9x9 tarp out of the workshop. 
Then after a few minutes, it stops raining!   

Oh by the way, waynl, I am going to drop the mower and open the gearbox. I hope that I can get a new gasket if I need one after I break the existing seal. CAN O WORMS! 


:furious:


----------



## Chris

The Ospho is slowly working, but it looks like some progress is being made. Nothing drastic, but you can definately see the progression to white, then lots of old blue paint showing through now. Hopefully it will continue to work on the rust some more.

<center><img width=640 height=450 src=http://www.tractorforum.com/htdocs/flail/01100004.JPG></center>

Andy


----------



## waynl

I know what you mean. Hey, if it was easy, everybody would be doing it. 
I have found that these type of projects are usually more rewarding than the end results (sometimes). 

I thought from earlier posts that this Ospho stuff was like a rust converter available in this area known as POR 15. POR 15 looks like a thin tar that you paint on the rusty spots. Supposed to stop rust in it's tracks by neutralizing it and making a paintable, primed surface. So far I have seen good results with it. But forget about reusing the paint brush after POR 15, unless you need a wide chisel.
  
Looks like a fine unit.

waynl


----------



## luckycharms

Looks like you have a way to go with that rust there, Andy.
I figured more would have been eaten up with that rust fluid you used from the bottle. Perhaps the high humidity and bad weather has limited its effectiveness. I hope that you find a good stretch of time to get the work completed on it. I agree and feel that it will be quite challenging to get the paint to hold well without running in the intense humidity. You might need to hold off a few months! 

Thanks for sharing.
-LC


----------



## Ingersoll444

Looks like it's coming along Andy. That converter works kinda slow. I have used that POR15 before and it works great, Also have had good luck with Corrless from Eastwood. Something to look in to when painting time comes around.


----------



## Chris

Yep POR15 is widely used for auto restorations...especially engine firewalls, bays, trunks, floorboards, etc. Really good stuff!
Well, it has been unusually sunny and dry here in Hammond, unlike Baton Rouge just about 30 mins over to the West. We seem to luck out of some of the storms as they pass from the Gulf in a NE direction. They always seem to just miss us. The storms coming down from NW always get us though! 

Well, I think it is still working on the rust. Maybe some more pics are in order!


----------



## Chris

The rust hasn't really gotten any better converted to iron phosphate, and still looks just slightly better than the last pic.
Should I continue to apply Ospho stuff or just go ahead with a good rust primer, then paint? :question:


BTW, I checked the drain plug on the gearbox and it was stuck hard. (obviously hasn't been changed in some time) Got in there
the dipped sample was a very old and dilluted brown/black/creamy color. Not exactly what I was hoping to find.
The seals do look good though from the shaft sides but I guess I need to pull the whole pumpkin cover off. I wonder if I will need new shims/gaskets after I break the obviously old seal with this box. Any ideas here? (Also no noticible play/movement in the shafts at all. Seems very solid) :question:

Also, I didn't locate -ANY- vent holes anywhere on the box. The back, sides, front etc. It looks completely sealed and the level of the fluid looked low to me. I literally had to extend at least an inch or more below the drain plug to find any fluid. I figured the fluid should be just below/even to the bottom of the plug area.
Is this a correct assumption? :question:

Well, I did locate the original parts and operators manual for this implement and I have a faxed copy of the parts manual now but the Operators Manual will be coming in next week. I guess I will have recheck everything now, as I am kinda concerned with the maintenance on this beast. Well, at least I have a good humor and plenty of spare parts! 

Thx,
Andy


----------



## Live Oak

Andy, I would try using one of those oil suckers like you use on a boat engine to suck the oil through the dip stick tube to suck as much oil out of the gearbox as you can. Top it up with new oil and keep doing this procedure after each use until the oil that is drawn out comes out looking clean. Easy way to flush out the crud that has accumulated over the years and you don't have to tear it apart.


----------



## Chris

Yep got it sucked out and pics to post. It was a creamy brown 
almost light BBQ sauce consistency. I washed it out with motor flush and cleaned everything, multiple times then used cheap gear oil to flush through until clear, removed that and added a
fully synthetic 75-140w gear oil. I found it onsale for about $5.50/quart. Filled up to base of fill plug and replaced. Nice and happy juicy gear oil now. 

Cleaned the unit down again and applied a good Primer Gray rattle can to most of the unit. Got good coverage and it should dry quickly. Just had to tape off the metal data plate and few of the zerks etc. I am going to go back and paint the bolts by hand.
 (details, details - much later on in this game) 

Hopefully if the rain holds off and I can manage I will try to make some more progress soon on this unit. I have to coach All-Stars in the softball championship this weekend, so I will AWOL for a while. 

Just wanted to share.


----------



## jodyand

So Andy have you tried it out yet since you change the oil in the gearbox does it run smooth:question:


----------



## Chris

Well, the red I choose to use seems to be a little too red IMHO but maybe after it dries and sets, I will be happier with it. The finish is not appearing to be going to be really smooth. I did lightly sand down the unit and then apply the automotive primer coats, then the paint. Wonder how many coats of paint I should apply to the unit? Should I bother with any kind of clear coat or protective top coat? The "drum" areas of the mower are the hardest to coat and the places where the paint looks the worse to me. 

I still have some finish painting to do of course and few other misc things. I am banking that it will never be a top-notch finish product at this point, simply too much roughness to the metal. 
Maybe more coats? 

Well, lets see what the day brings. :truth:


----------



## Chris

Oh yeah, on this unit the blades hang from metal collars which are suspended by free-hanging chains that connect to bars that extend down the length of the cuttershaft. Appears to be 3 offset rows of blades off the main cuttershaft. It appears also that the blades cannot be removed one at a time (argh!) but that the entire "bar" that holds that particular row of blades on must be pulled through all of the cutters for removal per row. I hope this makes sense. 

Paul, do you remember if this was the way the blades were positioned and/or am I missing something else with regard to blade changing on this unit.

Thanks
Andy


----------



## Chris

> _Originally posted by jodyand _
> *So Andy have you tried it out yet since you change the oil in the gearbox does it run smooth:question: *


Nope haven't run it yet, but the gear oil should perform and last much better now that it has been cleaned out and changed to a superior grade of protection.


----------



## Ingersoll444

If I remember right, ours had each pair hung together. Like two unside down "L's" turned into an upside down "T". 

The cutters looked a lot different also. More of a true "L" shape.


----------



## Chris

*A little progress*

Well, here is a pic of a little bit of progress. Disregard all of the finish painting, trim and overspray etc. All of that will be cleaned up ASAP. The red is really red but maybe it will dry a little better.
Nothing great, just wanted to share some little bit of progress.

<center><img width=640 height=400 src=http://www.tractorforum.com/htdocs/flail/flailprogress.jpg></center>

Andy


----------



## Ingersoll444

Looking REAL nice Andy. I bet with time that red will calm right down. If nothing else and little dust, and dirt will do it for you 

BOY I would love to fall into a deal like that. Would come in real handy around the homested.


----------



## jodyand

Looks a whole lot better.:thumbsup:


----------



## Chris

Well, maybe soon I can get back to this beast of burden (HAHA)
and get her finished. Got in touch with an old buddy from YTMAG who owns my exact model and in lieu of having my operators manual yet, he has helped me with plenty of my issues with this flail mower thus far. I need to work on that paint and get it toned down. I don't know why this paint came out and dried so bright.
Any more ideas to tone if down short of dirt and grime?   

I was looking for more of a Howse red than a RED RED. Well, perhaps the lighter primer made it brighter, in any case, let me know what ya thinky. 

Thanks again guys! 
:lmao:


----------



## Chris

Well, adjusted the belts, removed and cleaned all of the pulleys, etc in the "drive compartment" (large raised flat side on right side of mower unit) --- greased up the zerks, and got to the undercarriage. Looks like I am going to need to strip out all of the blades, the rods, etc and coat with some POR-15 on the undercarriage of the unit and then sand and paint the blade carrier unit and rods seperately (dont want any of the thick POR-15 to limit my ability to slide the rods in/out etc) --- Plus I am going to sharpen all of the blades just for kicks. They all have a lot of edge left on em! (probably going black for the wall and gray for the carrier and rod unit) Rods are semi-stuck in there with rust so maybe some PB to help with this? Looks like the unit is in very good overall shape --- just need some more time to finish this one up.


----------



## Chris

BTW, I managed to get the service manual, operators manual and parts list for this mower. Now I need to find all of the Ford script decals (think I find my source last night) and then work on the above work in last post....then I can give it a SWIRL around the lot.


----------



## P71

I was Not Impressed with the Flail mower. it has NO LIFT.... like a finnish mower, where the tractor wheels bend the grass down it wont cut it.... it's smoother than a bush hog.. but not what i would cut a yard with........... looks like the crappy job the state gets 17.50 an hour for cutting the shoulders, and Median


----------



## jodyand

Andy don't know if this manual is for yours or not but it looks like its selling cheap.

manual


----------



## Chris

Well, back to my mighty flail mower....the unit worked like a charm this past summer once I got the initial cuts done with my bushhog....I replaced all of the belts, fittings, blades, etc.....
It is a HEAVY-DUTY machine for certain!!!


----------



## Fordfarm

Yeah - those old flails are mighty machines! Wish I could luck into one like you did! :wontshare I really like the cut they leave. Got any up-to-date photos? I always paint all my stuff Ford Red, regardless of what it's SUPPOSED to be (IF I paint it!)!


----------



## Chris

I will post a few tomorrow when I make it back to Hammond!
It came out great...with new decals and everything.

Bye


----------

