# 445 keeps blowing fuse when trying to start



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Newbie here on forum. have read many good posts in past that have helped in different situations. 
Have 2002 445 gas lawn tractor. During mowing season developed problem with slow turning over when trying to start. Battery full charge. Would eventually start and run fine. Now when trying to start it blows fuse in line that runs from solenoid to switch. This would normally be a fuse link but someone replaced with 7.5 amp fuse setup. When I turn key to start, solenoid will start to engage then blow fuse. With new fuse, green and red lights are both lite on control module board. By unhooking wire that activates solenoid, I can jump posts and tractor will start with no lag. Have checked ground and all seem good. Only thing I have been able to find when troubleshooting is rectifier is supposed to show battery voltage on yellow wire but only shows 10.5. Don't know why rectifier would have effect on starting though Can this be problem in key/control module?


----------



## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello Willys man, welcome to the tractor forum.

You have a short somewhere in your cranking circuit. The solenoid coil is in the 7.5 amp fuse circuit. Disconnect the solenoid actuation wire from the solenoid, and then turn the key to the crank position. If the fuse doesn't blow, then I would replace the solenoid.


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

It could be a overload of the fuse, how did they decide 7.5a was the right one ?

When the voltage drops the load goes up, this and old age could contribute to the load problem 

Ensure the fuse is a good tight and clean fit, over time the connections can get hot and go soft making for a poor connection, that poor connection gets even hotter increasing the voltage drop thus increasing the load.

This goes for all your connections starting at the battery and moving down to the starter. 

I would disconnect the out side of the solenoid and trun the key to start and see if the fuse survives.

If it pops you have a short to ground if it survives it is more likely the load

If the fuse survives the no load test try smaller and smaller fuses, if they survive it is a load problem not a short to ground.

You could put a amp meter in where the fuse is or at the solenoid to find out if it is a overload and the load is greater than 7.5a


----------



## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Rolex said:


> It could be a overload of the fuse, how did they decide 7.5a was the right one ?
> 
> When the voltage drops the load goes up, this and old age could contribute to the load problem
> 
> ...


"Disconnect the out side of the solenoid". Just what does that mean? The cable from the solenoid to the starter?


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Thanks Rolex. The fuse has been there for years. I have replaced holder with mini spade last year so that is good. I have unhooked solenoid wire and turned key to start and it does not blow fuse. I can leave wire unhooked and jump solenoid 
terminals and solenoid and starter seem to work fine. I found trouble shooting site that recommended this test and it stated when I turn key to start with wire unhooked I should hear the start relays click. I hear nothing. The fuse doesn"t blow. When I turn key from off to run I can hear and feel the 3 relays click.I do have brake pushed. I know they have problem with key switch but I don't see how that fits in to cause short.I have gone over all connections cleaned and applied dieelectric grease, stood on my head and reset negative wire to frame. At a loss.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

If the solenoid had a short, then it wouldn't work at all, even jump starting would create a short at the terminal, the solenoid is ok, they either work or don't.

Most riders I have checked use a 20 amp fuse in the main feed line, probably be a good idea to check your manual if you have one to see what size is correct.


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

Fedup said:


> "Disconnect the out side of the solenoid". Just what does that mean? The cable from the solenoid to the starter?


Yes

I did not choose my words well, there is a power in side, this is from the battery and the out side is to the starter,


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

Bridging the solenoid will only prove the battery has enough power, the battery cables and the starter are good. bridging the solenoid bypasses every wire and safety cut out, they are the likely point for your issue.

try disconnecting the main cable from the solenoid to the starter then try to start it and see if the fuse pops.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Willys man said:


> Thanks Rolex. The fuse has been there for years. I have replaced holder with mini spade last year so that is good. I have unhooked solenoid wire and turned key to start and it does not blow fuse. I can leave wire unhooked and jump solenoid
> terminals and solenoid and starter seem to work fine. I found trouble shooting site that recommended this test and it stated when I turn key to start with wire unhooked I should hear the start relays click. I hear nothing. The fuse doesn"t blow. When I turn key from off to run I can hear and feel the 3 relays click.I do have brake pushed. I know they have problem with key switch but I don't see how that fits in to cause short.I have gone over all connections cleaned and applied dieelectric grease, stood on my head and reset negative wire to frame. At a loss.
> Just setting here looking at schematics again. The wire with the 7.5 amp fuse goes directly to key and wires from key go to control module pc board. There is a separate feed wire with it's own 10 amp fuse that runs from positive lug on solenoid to start relay and when relay activates feeds power directly to solenoid start solenoid. That circuit shouldn't have effect on main start circuit since this appears to be separated in start relay.





FredM said:


> If the solenoid had a short, then it wouldn't work at all, even jump starting would create a short at the terminal, the solenoid is ok, they either work or don't.
> 
> Most riders I have checked use a 20 amp fuse in the main feed line, probably be a good idea to check your manual if you have one to see what size is correct.





FredM said:


> If the solenoid had a short, then it wouldn't work at all, even jump starting would create a short at the terminal, the solenoid is ok, they either work or don't.
> 
> Most riders I have checked use a 20 amp fuse in the main feed line, probably be a good idea to check your manual if you have one to see what size is correct.


The problem here is this fuse was originally a fuse link. So far I can't find any reference to size. I have to believe it should be heavier since the switch feeds to circuits that use a 25 amp fuse. Since this always worked in past I never questioned size. Always worried about taking out charging rectifier or pc board. Have to do some more wire tracing then might try 15 amp fuse.


Rolex said:


> Bridging the solenoid will only prove the battery has enough power, the battery cables and the starter are good. bridging the solenoid bypasses every wire and safety cut out, they are the likely point for your issue.
> 
> try disconnecting the main cable from the solenoid to the starter then try to start it and see if the fuse pops.


Hi Rolex, in my last reply to you I explained that I did that procedure. Fuse did not blow but, as you state, since I can jump starter, it seems good.


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

A fuse must be the weakest part of the system, weaker than any wire or switch but it must be bigger than any load put on it.
now as a voltage drops the load gets bigger, as things age loads get bigger too, when new your unit would have had a starting voltage of 12.8v, that is a full battery, when the start switch was activated that 12.8v may have dropped to around 12.5v now that things are older, worn, dirty and crusty that 12.5v will be more like 11.5v, this lower voltage puts a bigger load on that 7.5a fuse, this can explain why a fuse that did work before no longer carries the load.

If you can use a meter you can measure that load to give you a better idea as to the size fuse required.

I think your fuse could be under sized for the load but we need to prove that is the reason it pops and it is not a short to ground.

I'm mostly into motorcycles, they have very light wires and switches so have very low amp fuses to protect them, the smallest fuse in my bike is 10a, even the horn runs a 15a fuse and my starter solenoid runs a 30a.

If you hook your tractor battery to a car that is running using jumper cables this would help keep the voltage above 12.8v, then go through your normal start procedure, if the 7.5a survives a number of starts it would tell me your problem is a overload and you could slowly increase the fuse size till it will survive without the jumper cables being used.

if you get up to a 15a or 20a and it still pops it would be worth having another look.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Rolex, thanks for the input. I will try this but I have measured voltage beyond the switch at 12.48 or 12.5 with switch in run position. If I hook meter on wire that activates solenoid I should be able to read voltage being delivered to solenoid when I turn to start, right?


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Willys man said:


> Newbie here on forum. have read many good posts in past that have helped in different situations.
> Have 2002 445 gas lawn tractor. During mowing season developed problem with slow turning over when trying to start. Battery full charge. Would eventually start and run fine. Now when trying to start it blows fuse in line that runs from solenoid to switch. This would normally be a fuse link but someone replaced with 7.5 amp fuse setup. When I turn key to start, solenoid will start to engage then blow fuse. With new fuse, green and red lights are both lite on control module board. By unhooking wire that activates solenoid, I can jump posts and tractor will start with no lag. Have checked ground and all seem good. Only thing I have been able to find when troubleshooting is rectifier is supposed to show battery voltage on yellow wire but only shows 10.5. Don't know why rectifier would have effect on starting though Can this be problem in key/control module?



You have a 7.5amp fuse supplying power to a 15 amp inline fuse in the start and run circuits, doesn't that seem a little odd?, and there is a same value fuse for the light circuit, can you remember what colour the fusible link wire was before being replaced, if you can remember then we can get a rough idea of size of the original fusible link and work out a comparable fuse to use in the start circuit.

In what circuit is the 25 amp fuse?, the injection circuit has its own fuse, but not sure of the value.

Carry out your test as per written to Rolex in post11 regarding the solenoid hot wire and see what voltage reading this shows.

You say you get a reading of 10.5 volts on the rectifier circuit, is this voltage reading being taken when you are cranking the engine?.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

FredM, no this is a static reading with switch in run position.


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

Willys man said:


> Rolex, thanks for the input. I will try this but I have measured voltage beyond the switch at 12.48 or 12.5 with switch in run position. If I hook meter on wire that activates solenoid I should be able to read voltage being delivered to solenoid when I turn to start, right?


In a perfect world the volts at the solenoid should be the same as the volts at the battery, what was the battery reading.


You need to read the volts while the motor is cranking that will give a better picture, that is when the volts will be at their lowest point.

Take a reading at the battery while bridging the solenoid and again at the solenoid while cranking, using the key if possible

When the fuse fails what stops working, that can tell us what other loads may be in play.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Battery reading at that time was 12.56, will do test tomorow.


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

Of course it depends on how accurate your meter is and the batteries capacity but 12.56 is just over 80% state of charge.

That will contribute to overloading the fuse.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Willys man said:


> Battery reading at that time was 12.56, will do test tomorow.





Willys man said:


> FredM, no this is a static reading with switch in run position.


FredM, I misstated the fuses are 15 amps on the pc board ignition control module. The main feed from switch goes directly to board and these 2- 15 amp fuses, a power circuit and a light circuit fuse. The injection fuse is 19 amps.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Willys man said:


> FredM, I misstated the fuses are 15 amps on the pc board ignition control module. The main feed from switch goes directly to board and these 2- 15 amp fuses, a power circuit and a light circuit fuse. The injection fuse is 19 amps.


Amos. Fingers are to clumsy. Injector fuse 10 amp.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Well, after much checking, meter measuring, and head scratching I might have made some progress. I think what I,m chasing is a marginal battery and intermittent bad starter. After going thru trouble shooting guide and all outputs were correct (battery volage 12.48 - 12.56, and finding the start circuit was on separate fuse, per your advice, I upped fuse to 10 amps. Starter rolled once and started clicking and blew fuse. Took solenoid off starter, grounded it and tried again. Did not blow fuse and voltage on solenoid wire 10.5 amps. manual says 10 amps minimum needed. This made me rethink starter. Put solenoid on tried to start, reading on solenoid wire went down to less than 6 volts. Checked voltage at main battery lug when trying to start went down to 9.3 volts. Using Rolex's advice hooked battery charger set on 12V low charge, gave me constant 13.8 volts at battery. Tried to start, measuring volt on main lug, went to 12.4 starter rolled about twice and started clicking. With charger still hooked, unhooked solenoid wire and tried to cross starter. Started once, twice, on third try, just clicked. could repeat this several times. Voltage at main solenoid lug dropping to 12.2 volts. This leads me to a bad winding in starter since I had starter off and looked at brushes and they were good. With the battery being a little marginal this extra draw blew the 7.5 fuse which was too lite to begin with. How it worked for years is a puzzle. Will install new starter I guess unless you guys have other ideas. I do appreciate all the advice. Sometimes I get tunnel vision and you guys gave me other directions to try. Thanks


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Willys man, now that you are saying the solenoid is clicking, then you have a solenoid problem, most times when the solenoid clicks as you say, then the 2 heavy bridging contacts inside the solenoid have arced up and are now burnt and pitted which effects the hold in wiring of the solenoid, I am not going to try and explain the workings of the solenoid, simply put, the solenoid wont hold in the start position to enable the start current to feed the armature, if the armature has a short or an open circuit you would know as soon as you tried to start the engine.

When you had the starter apart, did you check the bushings for excessive wear at the Bendix drive end (mostly the Bendix end) and the commutator end?, if either bush is worn enough, then you will get what is called poling, this is when the armature brushes(rubs) against the field wiring soft iron core, the effect of this is a slow/fast surging of the starter trying to spin as it should.

I cannot say if you need a new starter, I would have checked the windings of the armature with the multimeter set to ohms, start by holding one probe on a commutator segment (this probe doesn't move for the test) and hold the other probe on the segment beside and take a reading, then shift probe to next segment until you have checked all segments, you should have a scale reading for all segments if the windings are ok, if you don't get a reading from a segment, then you have an open circuit in the armature and it is kaput, you could take the armature to an auto electrician and have a growler test done, that is more expense though, hope this helps.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

FredM said:


> Willys man, now that you are saying the solenoid is clicking, then you have a solenoid problem, most times when the solenoid clicks as you say, then the 2 heavy bridging contacts inside the solenoid have arced up and are now burnt and pitted which effects the hold in wiring of the solenoid, I am not going to try and explain the workings of the solenoid, simply put, the solenoid wont hold in the start position to enable the start current to feed the armature, if the armature has a short or an open circuit you would know as soon as you tried to start the engine.
> 
> When you had the starter apart, did you check the bushings for excessive wear at the Bendix drive end (mostly the Bendix end) and the commutator end?, if either bush is worn enough, then you will get what is called poling, this is when the armature brushes(rubs) against the field wiring soft iron core, the effect of this is a slow/fast surging of the starter trying to spin as it should.
> 
> I cannot say if you need a new starter, I would have checked the windings of the armature with the multimeter set to ohms, start by holding one probe on a commutator segment (this probe doesn't move for the test) and hold the other probe on the segment beside and take a reading, then shift probe to next segment until you have checked all segments, you should have a scale reading for all segments if the windings are ok, if you don't get a reading from a segment, then you have an open circuit in the armature and it is kaput, you could take the armature to an auto electrician and have a growler test done, that is more expense though, hope this helps.


FredM When I say clicking, it does one big click as it draws in and holds til I release key. I did check all starter bearings and they were good and tight. No evidence of poling. Will check windings before ordering new. I plan on cleaning commutator and cleaning groove between contact segments. If it was 50 years ago Would take it to my local garage and have them turn the commutator. See what happens. Thanks


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

Those contacts will burn quicker and worse with a low voltage.

Your charger will not carry the current required to start the motor and your battery is stuffed, if it is holding less than 12.7v it is on its death bed,

I would change the battery before doing anything else or jump it off a good battery from a another vehicle with the motor running and good size cables as a test

A good battery should stop the clicking and make up for any poor connections, this will reduce all loads.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Willys man said:


> FredM When I say clicking, it does one big click as it draws in and holds til I release key. I did check all starter bearings and they were good and tight. No evidence of poling. Will check windings before ordering new. I plan on cleaning commutator and cleaning groove between contact segments. If it was 50 years ago Would take it to my local garage and have them turn the commutator. See what happens. Thanks


Righto bloke, you are onto it, -- as suggested, that leaves the battery, might pay to have it load checked.


----------



## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

If you're going to drive somewhere as FredM suggested..... Why not just drive to Harbor Freight and buy one of these??..... (There will be a "Next Time.)

Battery Load Tester $15


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Bob Driver said:


> If you're going to drive somewhere as FredM suggested..... Why not just drive to Harbor Freight and buy one of these??..... (There will be a "Next Time.)
> 
> Battery Load Tester $15
> 
> View attachment 83041


 And for that price, it would be no load to carry.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Good suggestion. Didnt know HF had something that cheap. Anymore seems their prices have skyrocketed, but so has everything.


----------



## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Willys man said:


> Good suggestion. Didnt know HF had something that cheap. Anymore seems their prices have skyrocketed, but so has everything.


Yep.... It's at 25% off right now, down side is it only works well on small engine and motorcycle batteries. For a proper load test, you load 1/2 of the amp capacity of the battery..... This ones 100 amps, so a 300 amp is kind of pushing. 700 amp car battery needs at least a 350 amp load test. If you want to accurately test automotive size batteries, you need a full blown carbon pile tester. Mechanics call these small load testers "Hotdog Warmers"

500 amp Carbon Pile Tester $80

I notice your avatar is Willys Man, does that mean you have a Willys? I just finished restoring a 1948 pickup about 3 months ago. Probably about a month away from completing a 1966 Ford Bronco


----------



## Rolex (11 mo ago)

I use one of the linked testers for all my batteries, that includes deep cycle solar batteries.

This is how I do it.

I use a digital volt meter so I can note the exact reading.

You should test the battery when fully charged to get the best result.

So I'm starting with a battery of 12.8v or above.

I hook up the digital & the test unit and hold the switch on the tester in the on position until I drag the battery down to 12.5v

I then let the battery sit.

I read my digital meter, a good battery will start to climb back towards 12.8v, a very good battery will get back to 12.8v

A good battery will get very close to 12.8v

A OK battery will recover some of the lost volts.

A poor battery will not recover any lost volts or it will continue to fall.

A bigger or deep cycle battery will take longer to drain down & will take longer to recover.

I like to have digital volt meters fitted so every time I turn on the ignition I get a reading, over time that reading will start getting lower, I'm virtually watching my battery fail, when I see the degradation start to speed up I start shopping for a replacement. 

I fit mini solar panels to all my farm cars and equipment, that not only saves my batteries it improves them.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Bob Driver said:


> Yep.... It's at 25% off right now, down side is it only works well on small engine and motorcycle batteries. For a proper load test, you load 1/2 of the amp capacity of the battery..... This ones 100 amps, so a 300 amp is kind of pushing. 700 amp car battery needs at least a 350 amp load test. If you want to accurately test automotive size batteries, you need a full blown carbon pile tester. Mechanics call these small load testers "Hotdog Warmers"
> 
> 500 amp Carbon Pile Tester $80
> 
> I notice your avatar is Willys Man, does that mean you have a Willys? I just finished restoring a 1948 pickup about 3 months ago. Probably about a month away from completing a 1966 Ford Bronco


Hey Bob, yep, have 1940 Willys Delux sedan street rod.


----------



## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

It seems we are approaching this prob as though the starter power is acquired thru this fuse. Can this be correct? Every start circuit I've worked on the starter power came directly from the battery. a circuit like the one in which this fuse would be found would be only for solenoid activation.

But... Ive never worked on a gas lawn tractor for the past 30 years either


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Yes John you are correct, the main power to solenoid comes directly from battery lug on solenoid to starter windings.


----------



## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

John Liebermann said:


> It seems we are approaching this prob as though the starter power is acquired thru this fuse. Can this be correct? Every start circuit I've worked on the starter power came directly from the battery. a circuit like the one in which this fuse would be found would be only for solenoid activation.
> 
> But... Ive never worked on a gas lawn tractor for the past 30 years either


Solenoid/starter is hooked to the battery circuit through heavy battery cable. The fused circuit is usually a 12-14ga input wire to bring 12VDC into the "B" terminal on the back of the keyed ignition switch. 12VDC output to activate the solenoid (usually 12-14ga) is through the "S" terminal on the back of the key switch when the key is turned to the start position....... The fuse is to protect the key switch and sometimes the stator from the 200+ amps in the battery if there is not a diode somewhere in the charging circuit.

A "3-terminal solenoid" grounds through the mounting legs..... A "4-terminal" solenoid grounds through the second small terminal. Most of the time all the "Safety Switches" (Seat Switch, Parking Brake, and PTO) are wired into that solenoid ground circuit. If all three of those "safety switches" are not CLOSED, the solenoid doesn't have a ground path and the engine won't crank. Running a jumper wire directly to ground off that small solenoid ground terminal, by-passes *all* of the safety circuits. The mower will start without anybody in the seat, without the brake pedal pushed, and with the PTO switch engaged.


----------



## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

Hi Willy,
Then why would starter draw blow the fuse? Unless as Rolex says the voltage drops so much the Solenoid trigger is capable (P=VI) the Solenoid switch circuit can draw over 5A, unlikely.
Try to close the solenoid by going directly to the terminal that closes the solonoid.
My opinion fuseblow caused by something other than starter.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

John, what I believe, after going thru the good suggestions by Rolex and Fred, is my battery is marginal so that it would start to roll motor over then would drop voltage so solenoid would stay engaged and cause amp draw to go up. With the 7.5 amp fuse in circuit, which we determined was way to lite, it blew fuse. After I upped fuse to 15 amps it wouldn't blow fuse. Did jump solenoid which started tractor sometimes but at times would only engage solenoid but not turn starter.


----------



## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Willys man said:


> Hey Bob, yep, have 1940 Willys Delux sedan street rod.


Not to derail your thread, but post a picture of that Deluxe. There's a lot of guys on here that like old cars/trucks also......


----------



## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

Willys man said:


> Did jump solenoid which started tractor sometimes but at times would only engage solenoid but not turn starter.


Willy, did the starter motor try to run or just sit there? 

This has been a good educational thread and I am waiting for what happens. Please keep us all informed. 
Also as Bob said post a pic of that street rod. We won't report you!!


----------



## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

Been in and out of this thread and missed Bobs excellent description of the starter circuit. The fuse is to protect the key switch and sometimes the stator from the 200+ amps in the battery if there is not a diode somewhere in the charging circuit.

That's very interesting, I had not given that a thought. (You mean charging stator). On my two tractors IHC and Ford I wired the battery directly to the alternator and wondered about fusing between the two but my source of info said don't worry about it. Now when I get back to those machines (I'm in CO now and the tractors are in WA) Im going to wire the alternators up with a fusable link instead of #10.


----------



## Always something (6 mo ago)

Pretty sure where the fuse isThere was a fusible link that blew. Cheaper to replace it with a in-line fuse .Sounds like your needing your starter worked on .If either or solenoid or brushes stick could blow the fuse .
.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

John Liebermann said:


> Been in and out of this thread and missed Bobs excellent description of the starter circuit. The fuse is to protect the key switch and sometimes the stator from the 200+ amps in the battery if there is not a diode somewhere in the charging circuit.
> 
> That's very interesting, I had not given that a thought. (You mean charging stator). On my two tractors IHC and Ford I wired the battery directly to the alternator and wondered about fusing between the two but my source of info said don't worry about it. Now when I get back to those machines (I'm in CO now and the tractors are in WA) Im going to wire the alternators up with a fusable link instead of #10.


John I wouldn't worry about doing that, first up the fusible link will have to be greater that the alternator output, if less, then it will blow with the different loads imposed on the alternator, most alternators are self regulating, these have a bridge rectifier built in and at worst if a diode leaks, then the battery will drain, if your alternators don't have built in regulators, then there will be a remote voltage regulator inline on the tractor, if these are mechanical, then there will be a bobbin with a voltage breaker circuit and this cuts voltage to the alternator when the engine is not running.

You have to do what you have to do I guess.


----------



## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

Hi Fred, on both tractors on which I converted to alternators, I used the Delco that has the features you mentioned and threw away the regulators. It sure Cleaned up the wiring. At the same time I converted the 860 to 12V and installed Pertronics ignition on it and the IHC.


----------



## Willys man (3 mo ago)

Latest update, new battery and solenoid (not John Deere) installed. Placed 10amp fuse in power line (where 7.5 was) hit the key. First try, solenoid drew in starter did not turn, fuse blew. Replaced 10 a with 15 a fuse, hit switch, started like new. shut down tried again, this time solenoid drew in, starter did not turn, fuse didn't blow but did not dare leave it engaged. Tried to start again, started as new. Problem seems to be in starter. As I now hypothesized, original problem was combination of marginal battery and intermittent starter. Next step is to pull starter and clean commutator and check windings. More to follow.


----------



## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

OK, here is the deal😉, the solenoid circuit that is supposed to engage the starter is somehow shorted to the starter power circuit. 

This means the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced, then also the 5A fuse.


----------

