# Ford 4000 power steering arm



## Arkcowman (Oct 9, 2020)

I have a 1971 Ford 4000 diesel. I need to replace the power steering arm. I am having trouble sourcing the same piece to purchase. I have a picture of the end nearest the clutch pedal. Sorry photo won’t post. Still any help appreciated.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

There were different setups for the 4000 tractors. Here is a link to a bunch of diagrams:
https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/64887/20597/
Do you recognize your equipment in any of these diagrams?


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## Arkcowman (Oct 9, 2020)

Hacke said:


> There were different setups for the 4000 tractors. Here is a link to a bunch of diagrams:
> https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/64887/20597/
> Do you recognize your equipment in any of these diagrams?


Yes I finally found the piece that I am having trouble with. there is a large PSteering ram that has two (i call them ball joints) on the end closest to the clutch pedal. Both of these ball joints are completely worn out and need replacing. not sure if i can purchase new ball joints or if I need to replace this entire worn out power steering arm. i am trying to attach pictures. Your experienced advice is greatly welcomed.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Here is the cylinder:
https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/64887/20597/259191/

#10 and #39 are the ball studs that protrude from the cylinder. Together with the ball cups, they make two ball joints.
Are these parts worn, or are the attached arm and link worn?
What damages can you see?
What problem do you have from this?

These studs are not that firmly seated as the studs on, for instance, a ball joint on a drag link end. They are fixed in position with springs, and are supposed to be able to move and control the valve. The spring tension is adjustable.


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## Arkcowman (Oct 9, 2020)

Hacke said:


> Here is the cylinder:
> https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/64887/20597/259191/
> 
> #10 and #39 are the ball studs that protrude from the cylinder. Together with the ball cups, they make two ball joints.
> ...


There is so much flopping in both ball joints that I can turn the steering wheel to 9 o’clock left or 3 o’clock right and the front tires needed move. 
While operating in a straight line I have to move the steering wheel a ton to maintain a straight line. If the two ball joints weren’t so sloppy it would tighten the steering. Also I cannot tighten the ball joints because when turning the nut the entire stud turns freely. I don’t see anyway to hold the stud from twisting.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I take it that you are sure that there is a play in the connection between bolt stud and drag link eye?
I take it that you are sure that there is a play in the connection between bolt stud and steering arm?

If so, you should first take them apart. In order to tighten a tapered connection properly, the mating surfaces need to be clean and dry. If the stud spins as you loosen the nut, clamp the parts together. An impact gun helps as well.

When both the stud and hole are cleaned and dry, you put them together and tighten the nut. As soon as the surfaces meet, the friction will prevent the stud from turning. You can help a bit first by pressing the parts together with a clamp. Do not use an impact gun at assembly.

I find it hard to believe that a play in those connections can give that amount of play at the steering wheel. Are the other ball joints OK?
If the hydraulic action in the cylinder is not working, you will have a play as the spring loaded ball joints moves end to end. Is the pump OK?
Do you hear a hissing sound when you hold the steering wheel to a stop?
The pressure line is secured at the cylinder with a standard hose clamp. That arrangement should not be able to hold more than a third of the maximal pressure that a healthy pump delivers.


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