# 1980 Ford 1700 tractor



## Tim47mac (Jan 6, 2021)

1980 Ford 1700 which set idle for 3 years. Flushed all diesel out of system, change oil.
Transmission was very low on fluid. Added the appropriate M2C-134A fluid, 4 gallons.
Started tractor, 3 point hitch would come up strong but shuttered. Also it would not stay down for implements to plow or mow.
Pulled out hydraulic filter, cleaned with diesel & drained all the fluid. Disposed of contaminated fluid.
Bought 7 gallons of fluid & refilled. Lift would not function.
Read this forum, did not get the exact right answer but got a ideal. Removed the banjo bolt on the suction line @ the pump, used funnel to fill the pump and the line. It worked.
This was just to let you know what has been done.
Right after the lift started working, the engine was idling @ 800rpm when a hard knock & engine stopped immediately.
Got on tractor, engine cranked immediately. Started to engage transmission, put main in reverse & aux in 3rd. Let off clutch engine bogged down.
Engaged clutch, engine recovered rpm's.
Took main shifter, tried to go to 2nd & wouldn't engage then went to 3rd & tractor went about 20 feet & locked the rear wheels almost stopping engine. Quickly disengage clutch engine revved back up.
Now any gear combination w/release of clutch starts to bind engine.
Shut off engine, both shifters will go into any & all gear combinations.
Got off tractor, it will roll freely.
Apparently something in the input shaft of the trans has locked up.
Don't know if I'm off with thinking it's not the clutch because w/pedal depressed the engine is ok.
Have not opened at the shifter plate, trying to locate a service manual to even know what to do.
I've built automotive engines, but never transmissions.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy Tim47mac, welcome to the forum.

Put the shift levers in neutral and pull the transmission cover. Look for a fork slightly out of alignment. Push it into alignment with a big screwdriver. Lubricate the rails.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Tim47mac said:


> 1980 Ford 1700 which set idle for 3 years. Flushed all diesel out of system, change oil.
> Transmission was very low on fluid. Added the appropriate M2C-134A fluid, 4 gallons.
> Started tractor, 3 point hitch would come up strong but shuttered. Also it would not stay down for implements to plow or mow.
> Pulled out hydraulic filter, cleaned with diesel & drained all the fluid. Disposed of contaminated fluid.
> ...


Your machine is Shibaura built as a Ford 1700. My neighbor has a 1500. Very similar. The 1700 is the better tractor overall.

Wish it was easy to locate PDF manuals on the web for free, but I've looked high and low and so has my neighbor. He ended up just buying a few on eBay for almost $120. 

There is a repair manual for the first 15 pages found here, but not sure IF the link on the last page is legit.
https://www.slideshare.net/jkmsedopl/ford-1700-tractor-service-repair-manual

The last page link goes to this site. The contact email goes to a Yahoo account.
https://www.aservicemanualpdf.com/d...-1900-1910-2110-tractor-service-repair-manual 

The REAL repair manual will cover ONLY these tractors ...
1300 - 1500 - 1700 - 1900
This is from the eBay ad my neighbor purchased.









Here's another listing as it's NEW for $80. 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-1300-...al-Repair-Shop-Book-NEW-w-Binder/302317134540


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## Tim47mac (Jan 6, 2021)

BigT said:


> Howdy Tim47mac, welcome to the forum.
> 
> Put the shift levers in neutral and pull the transmission cover. Look for a fork slightly out of alignment. Push it into alignment with a big screwdriver. Lubricate the rails.


I took off transmission cover, 1 lever was slightly out of alignment. 
I grabbed the out of aligned block, it moved very freely. All blocks move extremely easy.
When I removed the cover, heard something metal fall down inside into the oil. Have a magnet on telescopic shaft.
Fished out the 2 metal springs circled in red & 2 pieces of metal the same color as the inside (red) of the transmission.
Everything inside of the front & rear transmissions move freely.
It appears that the input shaft is bonded before the gears, as the engine still locks down on release of the clutch.
Looked at the parts breakdown in the parts book, but only springs I see are below the 4 bolts that hold down the shifters.
Any ideals?


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## Tim47mac (Jan 6, 2021)

bmaverick said:


> Your machine is Shibaura built as a Ford 1700. My neighbor has a 1500. Very similar. The 1700 is the better tractor overall.
> 
> Wish it was easy to locate PDF manuals on the web for free, but I've looked high and low and so has my neighbor. He ended up just buying a few on eBay for almost $120.
> 
> ...


Thank you, I need that


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## Tim47mac (Jan 6, 2021)

Thank you for the web link for the manual
Looks like I'm going have to split this tractor 
I'll definitely buy it first to get this done right


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Tim,
The springs you found may be for spring-loaded detent balls around the periphery of the transmission housing?? There are holes for the springs to fit in. If you look in the holes, there are detent balls on bottom. The transmission cover holds the springs down.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Tim47mac said:


> Thank you for the web link for the manual
> Looks like I'm going have to split this tractor
> I'll definitely buy it first to get this done right


Before doing the split, look at this video. It does have MANY helpful tips on splitting a compact tractor. 

Much will be very similar and things to be very aware of. 





 
Then watch Sparkles Farm split a 1700. 






The first video will help with the compacts of Ford, Isekie, Himomoto, Mitsubishi, John Deere, etc. Aaron does a good job explaining and demonstrating the tips.


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## Tim47mac (Jan 6, 2021)

Thanks for the info & references.
I will look at them.
I am going to order a full blown O.E. Ford repair manual before going forward.
In regards to removing the shifter cover, you are right. The springs are for the spring-loaded detent balls.
So it looks like I lost 2 of them.
Just downloaded a partial service manual (sparse details) does detail that I should have removed the 4 bolts at the base of the shifters, then remove the springs (#24). Then remove the shifter cover so as to avoid the position I'm in.
Have attached the instructions that I should have read first.















So the lesson here is that on the Ford 1700 & 1900, remove the springs first.
So my initial problem still exists, now drain the case hoping to find the other 2 springs.
Not blaming anybody for anything, advice is offered with only help being in mind.
Thanks very much for all help.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Tim47mac said:


> Thanks for the info & references.
> I will look at them.
> I am going to order a full blown O.E. Ford repair manual before going forward.
> In regards to removing the shifter cover, you are right. The springs are for the spring-loaded detent balls.
> ...


Tim, 

Thanks for the feedback. We are here to bounce ideas and questions around. Keep in touch on your saga with the Ford 1700 here. Your input does help others days/weeks/years in the future as they too would have similar or exact issues. 

Then join us in our DAILY chat here at the 
https://www.tractorforum.com/threads/so-what-did-you-accomplish-today.307/page-758#post-353027


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