# 3400 issues help!



## Sporket (Jul 28, 2012)

Ford 3400 "issues" worth it?
Hey guys, last year or so I bought a Ford 3400 off an older gentleman. The tractor looks some worse for the wear but not the worst I've seen. It looks like it's been left outside for the last few years. Upon getting her home and giving her a good workout I noticed power steering fluid leaking around the steering wheel. So I sent it in to be repaired and strangely enough while in the shop the injector pump just happen to give out.....humm. No problem just a $1200 fix. So I get her back home and a few weeks later still leaking power steering fluid and my hydraulics on the 3 pt hitch just seemed to roll over and die on me. I tried checking the oil level, but I must be an idiot and can't find where to check it let alone add any if needed. My "new" mechanic said it's probably the pump is gone out. I understand the filter can get clogged and I don't have the needed tools nor knowledge to split the tractor and take a look. Oh yeah and while bush hogging the PTO leaver will sometimes just pop out of gear. Now I paid $2500 and just thought I was getting a deal. The old diesel just fires right up and runs really strong. I'm just wondering if I got took really bad or is this old gal worth the needed repairs? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Fluid level checks: See attached photo. 

On the right side of the transmission there is a small SQUARE-HEADED pipe plug for checking the tranny fluid level. White pencil in photo points to this plug. Filler cap is on the top of the transmission near the gearshift levers. Drain plug is underneath the transmission.

Further back on the right side of the rear differential section, there is another small SQUARE-HEADED pipe plug for checking the rear differential center housing fluid level. Yellow pencil in photo points to this plug. Filler cap for the rear end is on top of the center housing, behind the seat. Drain plug is underneath the rear end. It may be under the draw bar, requiring you to remove a pin and slide it back to get to the drain plug.

NOTE: Your hydraulic pump is mounted on the left rear of the engine. It's driven by the camshaft. It draws fluid from the rear differential center housing. So if your hydraulics aren't working, the first thing to check is the fluid level in rear end. 

If your tractor has a loader, it normally has a front engine-mounted hydraulic pump. 

Your fluids may be in really bad condition (full of water/condensation, and miscellaneous crud). It might be a good time to drain fluid out of the transmission and rear end and refill with new Ford 134D oil or equivalent Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF). You can get equivalent UTF at Tractor Supply Stores, Auto Parts Stores, Wal Mart, etc. The drain plugs are under each respective section. Mine have a square recessed head. 

Your transmission takes 3.6 gallons of fluid. Your rear end takes 6.15 gallons of fluid. So you need two 5 gallon buckets of 134D plus another for spare/reserve fluid. Cost is about $45 per 5 gallon bucket. 

Leaks out of the steering column are fairly common. One major contributing factor is using the steering wheel to pull yourself up on the tractor. This stresses the seal at the base of the steering column. Make it a point to find another way to pull yourself up onto the tractor. I replaced my seal at the base of the steering column 20+ years ago and haven't had a leak since. BUT, I no longer pull myself on the tractor with the steering wheel. Also the lower column seal wears a groove in the steering shaft over the years, and eventually requires a sleeve installed on the steering shaft for the seal to seal against. There are kits available to fix this problem. I'd take it back to whoever "fixed" it and and tell them to do the job right, hopefully at no cost.

Regarding the PTO lever jumping out of gear, check the PTO shaft for end play (movement in and out). If you have significant end play, you may have a bearing problem, but most likely a big snap ring has broken or come off. It's a fairly easy job to fix this. Tie the PTO lever in the engaged position, drain the rear end fluid, remove 4 bolts, and slide 'er out. Inspect the shaft for a possible twisted spline on the internal end of the shaft (replace the shaft if this is the case). When re-installing the PTO shaft, shine a light up in there to see a seal that the shaft has to go through. Be gentle when re-inserting the shaft through this seal.


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## Sporket (Jul 28, 2012)

I drained the fluids from the tranny and rear end. Both were full of water and crud as you suspected. I'll fill it back up tomorrow after church.Fingers crossed. Makes me wonder what the filter may look like. The picture was spot on! Thank you very much your your insight and time spent helping me. If you lived nearby I'd certainly repay you. 

Thanks again Harry,
Travis


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## Sporket (Jul 28, 2012)

Harry after flushing the tractor out with the cocktail we discussed and running it, say 20 min or so the hydraulics began to slowly come back to life. I was amazed. So I ran it maybe 15 more min then changed the the fluids out replacing it with UTF to the levels you suggested and everything is back to normal. Couldn't have done it without your help man. 

Thanks


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Glad to hear that your hydraulic lift is working once again!! 

Attached is a diagram illustrating your steering column. The seal that is leaking is item #35 on the diagram. I would take it back to the shop that "fixed" it. There is an aftermarket sleeve kit for this repair if the seal has worn a groove in the steering shaft. You install a sleeve on the shaft to provide a new sealing surface for the seal to seal against.

Also attached is a diagram of your PTO shaft. This may not be the exact setup for your tractor, but it serves to illustrate the PTO shaft and associated parts. Check your PTO shaft for "end-play" (movement in/out). If you have end-play, the snap rings (items #15 & #16) may be missing or the bearing (item #14) may be bad. Also, the spline on the other end of the shaft may be twisted slightly. Change the rear seal (item #18) if you go into this repair. Overall, this is a fairly easy job.


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