# Ford 3400 Hydraulic filters.



## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Tractor Hydraulics 3 point lift was working some but seemed slow and kinda jerky and didn't seem to work all the time. Fluid was full and clean. I took the top cover off to get to the filters but it seems that would still be tough if not impossible to get them out with both shafts in the way. It appears to me you would need to split the tractor to get the main drive shaft out of the way but i'm sure I can take the PTO shaft out the rear most likely. Also I noticed when shifting the pto to disengage, it's hitting the inlet line from the filter and kinda pulling it out of the hole of the case a little. Not sure what to do to correct that problem.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy lcrepairs,

You must remove the PTO shaft and PTO shift fork to get the suction filter out.

Here is a thread that I participated in many years ago with nice pictures showing the filters:

Do an internet search: 71 Ford 3000 - Hydraulic Problems.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

People keep bringing me diesel pickups to work on, so it's limiting my time greatly on the old 3400, I did take the pto shaft out the other day and noticed the fork won't come out without removing the pto shift lever/lh foot step, etc. So that's what I'm gonna do next, Not sure if all these gaskets/filters, etc are easily available, we'll see when I get time to sort it all out. There are 2 New Holland dealers about an hour away. Thanks for your help as usual. I haven't found anything yet that I think is causing any problems, I think maybe a pump kit would do it some good. Plan on checking the pressures when I get it back together. I did take the cylinder piston out and the oring looks good, but I plan on replacing it anyway.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

SixBales I did find that post and they are nice pictures and something I noticed was the spring is missing that goes from that flow control linkage to the return filter tube on mine. That explains why that knob is so easy to turn and that linkage just kinda flops around. I'm not sure what kind of problems that would cause with the hydraulics. I did get both filters out, (WOW, that is difficult to get that suction filter & tube out,even with the PTO and fork,collar out.) The suction filter looked very dirty and had fallen apart. Looked like to me someone had tried to glue it on & it didn't hold. New Holland told me that was no longer available, so....I gotta figure out where to buy these parts. I'm thinking the pump may not be so great after not being filtered all this time. Is it possible to rebuild the pump fairly cheap or would a seal kit even do it any good. Maybe if the pistons and stuff have wear it would be shot. I plan to replace both filters & all seals and gaskets I have apart now, put It back together, check pump pressure and function, and if something isn't right, go for the pump repair at that point.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

lcrepairs,

I know this much about the flow control system......if you have it in the slow response position, the lift is VERY SLOW.

Call Messick's Parts Hotline 1-877-260-3528 for the suction screen and spring. You will need to know the year (and date if 1968) of manufacture for your tractor, as the suction screen was changed in 1968. See attached Messick's parts diagram. It will tell you the availability of the parts you need and the cost. 

The spring may be on bottom of your reservoir?? Messicks has one in stock.

If you don't know the year of your tractor, get the numbers stamped into the metal on a flat spot just above and behind the starter. Somebody here can interpret them for you.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

*thanks*

I did order all the parts I could from Messick's, they did not have the inlet filter. I ordered it from SSB Tractor parts, (Big Mistake) I got all the parts from Messick's in 3 days, I still have not received the part from SSB and even had to call them back to confirm the order, they couldn't find the order even though they had already charged me for it. They claim they will get it shipped out but I still don't have any order confirmation. thanks for your help, I could not find the spring anywhere in the case, but I got a new one. I think maybe the missing spring had a lot to do with how the lift was working. What are your thoughts on putting a kit in the pump if pressure isn't right when I get it back together. Kit's seem pretty inexpensive.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

You can test the pump by installing a 3000 psi pressure gauge in the test port (square-headed pipe plug on pump). The pressure should be 2000+ psi.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Ok, back on the tractor project after being down 2 weeks waiting on a part. I did finally get that old inlet filter out, but it took awhile. This new one, so far I have not been able to get back in. It is built slightly different but pretty much the same. If anyone knows any tricks to snaking that thing in there I would greatly appreciate it. I'm tired of fighting something that I thought would be fairly simple. Dadgum, there goes the last of my hair.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

I got it all back together and full of oil, been trying to make sure the air is bled for a few days, the lift is loaded with a heavy grader blade. When you first start it, it takes forever to work, up and down slightly, then finally it will work and hold all the way up. But it is extremely slow. I'm trying to get a guage to check the pressure, Not sure what thread that test port is at the hydraulic cover. It seems weird. Measures about .550-18 TPI. I guess I could check it at the pump plug but it's facing down a little and I figure it would be more messy.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

I did take that plug out at the top of that plate, It took forever to get fluid up there, even moving the control handle to the up position, I wonder what would make it lose prime like that? Could a worn pump make it lose prime? I'm gonna go buy a gauge to check it at the pump now. But I hope there isn't something internal leaking fluid off somehow. The lift holds fine, even with the engine off.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Hooked up gauge at pump, most I saw was about 600 psi @ 2000 rpms and working the lift up seemed to make it show more pressure. I hope it isn't just a relief stuck open somewhere. Not sure how to check that. I guess I'll remove the pump and look into putting a kit in it and go from there.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

You won't develop much more pressure until you load the system. All that's happening at this point is oil flowing through tubes and valves, then returning to sump. Raising the lift only adds whatever effort is required to raise the lift arms. In order to test the pump or relief pressures you will need to use a remote valve(provided the tractor is so equipped) or load the lift arms to provide the needed resistance.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Ok, I had a pretty heavy blade on the arms while testing. The problem I'm having is it loses prime every time after sitting all night or so. I did remove and dissasemble the pump and didn't find much obvious except on one of the inlet side balls was stuck with a piece of trash in it. Not sure if that would cause this. I'm gonna put a minor kit in it. I'm thinking maybe the relief valve may have trouble ???


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Well, if you're going to remove the pump anyway, you might try this - once it's removed, remove the trans filler plug on the shift cover. Raise the lift arm control lever to mid way or so, then take a rubber tipped air nozzle and blow air into the pressure port that mated with the pump. See what happens. With bare lift arms, 50 psi or so will raise the arms with no problem. With weight on, air will make some attempt, but of course will not lift anything off the ground. It may however, help identify a major internal leak by bypassing large amounts of air out the filler opening. If all that seems sound, then you're back to the pump. When you dismantle it, pay particular attention to the shaft seal and corresponding wear surface on the wobble shaft. This is a common source of air ingestion with these pumps that's often overlooked. If you decide to order a kit, there are a large number of suppliers. There is a wide range of prices, and the quality often matches the price. I've tried the cheap ones and wished I hadn't. Most kits come with new valve seats, and many don't make the effort to install them. In my opinion, the seats are just as important as any other part in that pump, and should not be ignored.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Haven't figured out exactly how to pull that wobble shaft out yet, I'll go mess with it a little more.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

There should be a snap ring retaining a plug on the back end of the drive housing. Once removed, the nut securing the shaft into the drive housing will be exposed.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Sorry to keep bothering you with these silly questions, I removed the snap ring and cleaned and lubed around that plug. I don't see how in the heck to get that plug out without knocking a hole in it or something. Not sure if that comes with the kit or not.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Probably not. CNH lists it as C5NN636A. About $3


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Still waiting on the tools to replace seats from Steiner Tractor Parts. Golly, ordered last Friday afternoon, here it is Wednesday and still not shipped. They claim Bad weather has slowed them down. So much for ever getting this back together I guess, I have two kits here, ready to assemble but I want to replace the seats. I don't have any experience at rebuilding these pumps but "HEY" If your gonna rebuild it, then rebuild it.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Hey, these later pumps seem to be a pain to get the plate over the ball cages. I've tried several times so far and every time one of the balls don't seat right. I made sure the cages were stuck down where they go, but the plate seems to hang or not sit down on at least one cage I'm assuming, I looks like it's down flat all the way around but one of the balls don't seem to move as freely as the others. took it apart and rechecked. Does it really have to have the cages? The older ones don't use cages but not sure if the manifold housing is built differently to accomodate for that or not.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

I got that part together by using the old cages, the ones in the kit didn't fit right. Now on to replacing the roller bearing i screwed up behind the seal. By the way, I'm not very happy with Steiner Tractor.


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