# Cub Cadet LT 1050 with Kawasaki FR651V AS08 22 HP engine leaks oil at cam shaft opening on crankcase cover



## TNVol (9 mo ago)

*Update: *I tried many ways to find the proper part no. for the plug needed for this issue and finally got Brian at Kawasakienginesusa.com on the phone. The current online parts diagrams do not have this plug. He went to older diagrams and found it, *part# 92066 7028*. 

I am new to this forum but look forward to sharing info.

I mowed for about 3 hours this week and thankfully I made it back to the shop before losing all my engine oil. Checked before mowing as always and it was full. Next day the oil was all over the floor and sump was empty.
My questioin is at the bottom of the thread.
I pressure washed the engine and put 48 oz of oil in to find that the oil was leaking from the open end of the cam shaft which is on the bottom of the engine forward of the crankshaft. Here is are photos showing the issue. Mine is the photo with no "plug" in the hole. The other is a stock photo I found on line that shows a plug in the hole.








In looking at diagrams of the engine components online I have not been able to locate the plug, an o-ring or a seal for the shaft/hole. My question is, if I were to find the plug and plug the hole, it that all I need to do? Otherwise I guess I would have to pop the crankcase cover off and look to see if there is a seal.
Thanks!


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello TNVol, welcome to the forum.

I would expect a snap ring (or similar device) on top of the plug to hold it in place / prevent it from coming out.


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## TNVol (9 mo ago)

HarveyW said:


> Hello TNVol, welcome to the forum.
> 
> I would expect a snap ring (or similar device) on top of the plug to hold it in place / prevent it from coming out.


I think you are right. That or ribs around the part that fits in. I suspect, if it was plastic or rubber after 12 years it might have become brittle and disintegrated. Thanks


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

TNVol said:


> I think you are right. That or ribs around the part that fits in. I suspect, if it was plastic or rubber after 12 years it might have become brittle and disintegrated. Thanks


Nope..... No Snap ring or ribs. Kawasaki says use their Super Duper "Three Bond Sealer" (Part # 92104-0007) to install/seal it. "That won't work" you say..... Look in the crankcase parts diagram again. Do you see a pan gasket? Nope, just a picture of a tube with ref# 92104 ("Three Bond Sealer"*). *

"That won't work" you say again..... Kawasaki thinks highly enough of it that a 5oz tube is $45. It is pretty amazing stuff. I can see where if they would have had enough of that stuff on hand 4/15/1912, they probably could have sealed up that hole and saved the Titanic.


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## TNVol (9 mo ago)

Bob Driver said:


> Nope..... No Snap ring or ribs. Kawasaki says use their Super Duper "Three Bond Sealer" (Part # 92104-0007) to install/seal it. "That won't work" you say..... Look in the crankcase parts diagram again. Do you see a pan gasket? Nope, just a picture of a tube with ref# 92104 ("Three Bond Sealer"*). *
> 
> "That won't work" you say again..... Kawasaki thinks highly enough of it that a 5oz tube is $45. It is pretty amazing stuff. I can see where if they would have had enough of that stuff on hand 4/15/1912, they probably could have sealed up that hole and saved the Titanic.


That is really good info. I wondered how it would stay in if nothing but a dry plug. I still don’t know why the old one came out other than deterioration. Very poor engineering since mowing a few more minutes would have caused a dry sump and a ruined engine. Thanks again.


Bob Driver said:


> Nope..... No Snap ring or ribs. Kawasaki says use their Super Duper "Three Bond Sealer" (Part # 92104-0007) to install/seal it. "That won't work" you say..... Look in the crankcase parts diagram again. Do you see a pan gasket? Nope, just a picture of a tube with ref# 92104 ("Three Bond Sealer"*). *
> 
> "That won't work" you say again..... Kawasaki thinks highly enough of it that a 5oz tube is $45. It is pretty amazing stuff. I can see where if they would have had enough of that stuff on hand 4/15/1912, they probably could have sealed up that hole and saved the Titanic.


It hurt to order but the lady said the expensive tube of goo would be here the same time as the plug. Now to get it back together and mow two weeks of fast growing grass. Ugh! Thanks again for the heads up.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

TNVol said:


> That is really good info. I wondered how it would stay in if nothing but a dry plug. I still don’t know why the old one came out other than deterioration. Very poor engineering since mowing a few more minutes would have caused a dry sump and a ruined engine. Thanks again.
> 
> It hurt to order but the lady said the expensive tube of goo would be here the same time as the plug. Now to get it back together and mow two weeks of fast growing grass. Ugh! Thanks again for the heads up.


That failure is kind of odd and you were lucky to catch it. Not sure if you have a low oil pressure light on that CC1050..... They are easy to install on a FR651. All you need is a dash light and an oil pressure switch. Wire the light 12VDC "hot" with the key on and use a 5 Lbs single wire oil pressure switch as the ground connection. Any time the engine has above 5lbs of oil pressure, with the key on, the pressure switch is open and the light is off. OP drops below 5lbs, with the key on, the pressure switch closes and the light comes on. Pressure switch installs where the 1/8" NPT allen-head plug is installed right above the oil filter


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## TNVol (9 mo ago)

Bob Driver said:


> That failure is kind of odd and you were lucky to catch it. Not sure if you have a low oil pressure light on that CC1050..... They are easy to install on a FR651. All you need is a dash light and an oil pressure switch. Wire the light 12VDC "hot" with the key on and use a 5 Lbs single wire oil pressure switch as the ground connection. Any time the engine has above 5lbs of oil pressure, with the key on, the pressure switch is open and the light is off. OP drops below 5lbs, with the key on, the pressure switch is closes and the light comes on. Pressure switch installs where the 1/8" NPT allen-head plug is installed right above the oil filter
> 
> View attachment 78738
> 
> ...


You the man! Thanks!


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

TNVol said:


> You the man! Thanks!


Parts will run less than $20 with some shopping and it'll sure take away your future paranoia about that cam plug failing again. On your LT1050..... "12VDC Hot with the key on" should be a PURPLE wire coming off of the A2 terminal at the key switch. That purple wire runs down to your RMC module, but you can splice into it for 12VDC to the light, the light will draw very little amperage. Oil Pressure switch installed looks like this.... Don't use thread tape, or the switch may not ground properly through the threads.


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