# Ford 3400 distributor removal and need manual.



## Sting (Sep 12, 2020)

Hello everyone.
Ive searched here for the repair manual which i need and only found one for a 3000. Also searched for this problem.
I have an oil leak from the distributor base and want to change the o ring. I removed the clamp bolt and can only lift it maybe 1/4 of an inch. I'm suspecting there is something that still needs to be done to lift it out.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.


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## the key of knowledge (Jul 12, 2020)

www.peacefulcreek.com/pages/product-result?rq=tr_ford~uy_tractor~md_3400
This link should connect you with all the manuals you need. John


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## the key of knowledge (Jul 12, 2020)

https://www.peacefulcreek.com/


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Sting said:


> Hello everyone.
> Ive searched here for the repair manual which i need and only found one for a 3000. Also searched for this problem.
> I have an oil leak from the distributor base and want to change the o ring. I removed the clamp bolt and can only lift it maybe 1/4 of an inch. I'm suspecting there is something that still needs to be done to lift it out.
> Any help is appreciated. Thanks.


I've pulled a few of those distributers and never had a problem. How hard are you pulling on it? Did you twist back and forth while you pull?
A 3400 is a 3000 with a heavier front axle. If you buy the 3000 manual it will cover about 95% of your tractor.
The best bang for your buck is the I&T FO-31 manual. About $30 most places.


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## the key of knowledge (Jul 12, 2020)

https://www.ebay.com/usr/hfinney
This is another good source for manuals. I have purchased from both of the above and never been disappointed. John


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## Sting (Sep 12, 2020)

Ultradog said:


> I've pulled a few of those distributers and never had a problem. How hard are you pulling on it? Did you twist back and forth while you pull?
> A 3400 is a 3000 with a heavier front axle. If you buy the 3000 manual it will cover about 95% of your tractor.
> The best bang for your buck is the I&T FO-31 manual. About $30 most places.


I've removed dozens on trucks. It doesn't turn the full length of the slot of the hold down bracket, maybe halfway and lifts up and down 1/4 in. I pulled pretty hard. I just didn't want to use a rubber mallet or prybar in case something else is holding it place. With what you're saying, I guess it's safe to persuade it freely since nothing else holds it down.
Is it just replacing the basic oring that will cure my oil leak?
Thanks for your help.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Never had one leak there so can't say why yours is.








There is nothing to keep it from pulling out.
Just give it a reef.


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## Sting (Sep 12, 2020)

It started leaking only right after when I loosened and tightened the hold down bracket to check the timing.
What else could there be?


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## Sting (Sep 12, 2020)

Ultradog said:


> I've pulled a few of those distributers and never had a problem. How hard are you pulling on it? Did you twist back and forth while you pull?
> A 3400 is a 3000 with a heavier front axle. If you buy the 3000 manual it will cover about 95% of your tractor.
> The best bang for your buck is the I&T FO-31 manual. About $30 most places.


 The hold bracket is not fixed. Perhaps it had slipped downward causing the oring to not be down far enough to seal?
Should I loosen the bracket and bring it up?
Secondly, Shouldn't I get the full travel in the adjustment slot for timing? It only moves quarter way. I can't get the marks to show on the flywheel.


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## Sting (Sep 12, 2020)

Been at it for 2 hours with a mallet and block of wood. All it does is wiggle back and forth. Seems to be seized at the lower end. Perhaps cracked.
It will not rotate. 
Something is stopping this from rotating and lifting out after removing the hold down bolt. 
I really don't want to break it off. 
Any help?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Sting said:


> Been at it for 2 hours with a mallet and block of wood. All it does is wiggle back and forth. Seems to be seized at the lower end. Perhaps cracked.
> It will not rotate.
> Something is stopping this from rotating and lifting out after removing the hold down bolt.
> I really don't want to break it off.
> Any help?


Odd.
I think it's a matter of it coming out or having to dig deeper into it.
The distributor is driven off the governor shaft - which is driven off a gear in the timing cover.
There is a flat plate that covers the back end of the governor body that also holds the coil.
You can remove that cover for a look-see inside.
Don't know what you'll find but it's just two bolts to remove it.
Otherwise you're looking at digging deeper and pulling the governor body.
It's been a while since I worked on a gasser but I know to do that youll need to remove the governor cover. Then you can slide the gov bell out to loosen the gov drive from the timing gear. What I don't remember is if you can slide the gov bell out with the radiator in place. I'll bet you can tho.
On a diesel you can remove the injector pump without pulling the radiator which makes it pretty easy.
Timing cover does Not have to be removed. And the timing gear is held captive by the timing cover so it can't skip a tooth and lose time. Not that that would matter on a gasser but does on a diesel.
Photos show the cover on the back end swung out so you can see inside and the governor bell slid out and in my hand.
Keep us updated as you go.
We're All learning here. You're just doing the wrenching.
Edit: I have this complete governor and distributer here that I would sell reasonably if you need it.


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## Sting (Sep 12, 2020)

Thanks for your reply. I decided to tighten the distributor back down. Somehow from tapping the distributor from underneath with a wooden block the points won't open with the adjustment maxed out. So the breaker plate has moved but it's snug.
I can see this distributor will not come out without the housing breaking.


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## John Liebermann (Sep 17, 2018)

*Where are we on this issue?* 

Last year I had a problem on a Ford V8 where the housing that supports the dist shaft broke and caught the assembly in the engine. The pan was off for other reasons so it gave us a change to work the dist out. 

Since the points cant be set and the dist cant be rotated if it were me I would have that engine apart far enough to figure out what is in error. Lots of hard steel parts in rotation that could cause significant damage.


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## Sting (Sep 12, 2020)

John Liebermann said:


> *Where are we on this issue?*
> 
> Last year I had a problem on a Ford V8 where the housing that supports the dist shaft broke and caught the assembly in the engine. The pan was off for other reasons so it gave us a change to work the dist out.
> 
> Since the points cant be set and the dist cant be rotated if it were me I would have that engine apart far enough to figure out what is in error. Lots of hard steel parts in rotation that could cause significant damage.


The tractor is 6 hrs away at my camp.
I have a repair manual on order. When I can get time off I will continue. The distributor is not seized. It does rotate a little either way and binds. Seems something is not allowing it to lift up.


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## the key of knowledge (Jul 12, 2020)

I would suggest you consider ordering the parts manual and the operators manual along with the shop service manual that you have ordered. The reason for the parts manual is two fold; first it will help to assure you are ordering the correct part. Ford tractors were often upgraded during a run of the same tractor. When you come upon one of these parts you will usually find in the parts manual the way to identify if you need the early or the late production part. 
Second it will help when the service manual says you need to remove this or that but does not give needed detail on how to remove the subassembly. Most times you can study the parts manual and figure out how to take it apart. 
The reason for the operators manual can be understood by this lesson I learned a few months ago. My wife has been operating our Ford 4610 for many years. When engaging the PTO to run the Bush Hog she just pushed the lever backward and the mower started. The 4610 has an automatic hydraulic clutch so the PTO can be engaged without depressing the clutch. I purchased a 3610 Ford and put the bush hog behind the 3610, telling my wife it was now our permanent mowing tractor and the 4610 would be used for other implements we have. She mowed with the 3610 for quite a few months and and told me the PTO would not stay engaged and she had to hold it in gear. When she demonstrated the problem to me I heard a grinding of gears. Asking how long it had been doing that she said since she first began using it. After the operators manual arrived I discovered that these tractors had two different types of systems. The only place that type of thing is clearly explained is in the operators manual. I have years of experience rebuilding automatic transmissions and lots of other similar systems but I am new to tractors. The operators manual is the least expensive of the three manuals and well worth the small cost. I am having lots of fun learning about tractors and applying my skills to them. 
Best to your efforts on the dist. issue. Taking enough of the engine apart to see what the problem is sounds like good advice. The only additional thing I would offer is for you to study the books when they come before you start tearing everything apart. If I remember correctly someone offered to sell you a dist. for a reasonable price. If me I would buy the dist. before tearing the engine down. Buying the dist. will likely be less expensive than even a partial teardown and reassemble. It may turn out that you will need a dist. anyway. If you know what a pinch bar is that will help you to get it out. Most pinch bars come to a point on one end and the other end is flattened out and curved up. This tool will permit you to put the bar under the dist. and press down on the pointed end causing upward force on the dist. I have pulled many a stuck dist. on V8 engines over the years. Some have even needed to be persuaded with a 2# ball pinene hammer. All of them eventually came out and none of them ever broke. Usually the problem was never changing the oil and dried oil made the diameter slightly larger than the hold the dist. resided in. Sometimes while applying upward force it was necessary to tap the dist. and cause it to rotate at the same time. This helps to clean off the built up crud. Every dist. I have ever seen was driven by a gear or a shaft in a slot. The gear will rotate slightly as it comes up. The shaft and slot will not rotate. If you want to preserve the timing mark the location of the vacuum advance on the manifold or block and mark the location the rotor is pointing at. When you put it back in remember if it has a gear drive you will need to of set the location slightly so as it goes in it will end up in the original position.
If you lived close by I would help you. I'm in SW Florida not too far from Fort Myers, FL. Here is my email: [email protected]


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