# Good tips for rattle can paint jobs?



## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Can someone post some good insight and/or tips for good results with painting with a rattle can enamel? Any specific coverage motions or overall tips that make it easier and have better results? The surface will be sanded, rust primed, and ready to paint. Just looking for some tips that might avoid the obvious observer. 

Thanks
Andy


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## johnbron (Sep 17, 2003)

:smoking: 

Andy, The best tip & results I get from a rattle-can are to use the spray gun type of handles that attach to the top of the can. About 1-buck each at Wal-Mart and they last forever. For a good finish dont worry about wasting paint and make long even overlapping strokes. I am painting my whole Cub with rattle cans and people who have seen it do not believe its painted with rattle cans.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

Degreasing your parts, using primer that is compatable with the top coat, dust free environment, cleanliness, buy all your rattle cans at the same store on the same day out of the same box if possible and buy at least 2 more than you think you need, make that 3 more... maybe 4.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I use good steady side to side motions slightly overlapping each spray pattern. Depending upon what each brand recommends, I try to hold the can between 6 to 12 inches from what I am spraying. High humidity really negatively effects the paint bonding and drying to the surface well. So try to paint during dryer times of day at a preferred temp around 75 - 80 degrees. I applies each coat of paint fairly thin and allow enough time for the paint to FULLY dry. The time required with vary with temp and humidity. When the paint has dried good, I go back over with the next coat. I try to apply 5 or 6 coats but this can vary depending upon the paint. Some require more, some less.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Wow, 5 or 6 coats...lots and lots of cans!  

I have heard nothing but GREAT THINGS from EVERYONE on the Walmart brand spray can "spray gun" nozzles!  Thanks for the support there. Well, I am going to tear into the gearbox a little bit and start replacing some misc parts etc before I make it look nice and pretty. Will keep you posted.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by admin _
> *Wow, 5 or 6 coats...lots and lots of cans!
> 
> I have heard nothing but GREAT THINGS from EVERYONE on the Walmart brand spray can "spray gun" nozzles!  Thanks for the support there. Well, I am going to tear into the gearbox a little bit and start replacing some misc parts etc before I make it look nice and pretty. Will keep you posted. *


I put the coats on very thin to aid drying so it is not as much paint as you think. You can spray on 2 or 3 heavier coats but I'm not sure how they will set up in this humidity.


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## Rodster (Sep 26, 2003)

Andy
Read the can. On some Rustoleum paints you have a small window to do all your coats. I think most have a recoat time of
only one hour and then you have to wait 48 hours to recoat. It is very small print under directions. I found out the hard way years ago. I painted a mini bike frame. The next day I put on a second coat and it lifted the first coat and turned it into a wrinkle job. Had to take it all down to metal again. Just because it is dry does not mean it is cured.
Rodster


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

The spray gun nozzle will save your finger.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Why noy just use a spray gun and compressor? The turbine setup from TP Tools works great. Very low overspray and heated air fed to the spray gun eliminates any moisture problems.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Turbine setups are nice, but they go from $599 - $799 for these setups from tptools and others.... Not quite what I had in mind for this little project, but would be nice to have.


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## johnbron (Sep 17, 2003)

:smoking: 

Also everybody has there favorite brand of rattle-can paint.

For my cub the best I have found is (XO-RUST) brand labled Tractor Red. It applies very nicely and flows out to a very high gloss.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Hmmm... didn't see any XO RUST ---


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## johnbron (Sep 17, 2003)

:smoking: 

I buy it at our local True-Value hardware store. $3.49 per can.


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

Good tip;s already given, and lots of luck this time of year in your area finding a day that is not all that humid.............. Other than not as good in bonding to the material being painted, your darker colors will blush pretty bad and most if they donot come out with a whitish tint will be flat instead of gloss. Right now I am running into this problem when I am trying to paint some decorative iron work I made for some folks..........harder than heck to get a nice high gloss black finish with all this humidity.

My favorite brand of paint in a rattle can is Krylon as number one choice, and Plastic Kote as #2 choice and Valspar as #3. If I can't get those brands I don't buy it period. Have no use at all for any rustoleum product. Krylon dries fast retains a good color and gloss and can be recoated anytime.


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## Fusion1970 (Feb 23, 2004)

Pay attention to the label, and read it well. It would also be a good idea to get a couple more cans than planned, and experiment a little...it helps to "know" the paint. Some you can give a couple quick tack coats, then basically blow it on without runs. Others seem to run regardless of how careful you are. 

There is a particular hobby type paint (one part polyurethane) that I have used for quite a while. It can be applied to basically anything, and I have really gotten used to it. I have even went as far as spraying the can into a paper funnel and into a glass jar to be airbrushed. Heres a pic of a boat I just did for a buddy of mine. The dark blue was applied with a spray can.

Good luck,
Greg


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Wow, nice paint job. So are you saying you funnelled the rattle can paint into a paper funnel and then into a spray jar and airbrushed it? Wouldn't it be easier to buy airbrush paint already ready to be poured? (just curious not be judgemental) Really nice work. How long have you been painting bodies (assuming lexan type) RC bodies?

Well now I got so many different directions to go in. I guess a little practice and trial and error may be in order.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chipmaker _
> *My favorite brand of paint in a rattle can is Krylon as number one choice, and Plastic Kote as #2 choice and Valspar as #3. If I can't get those brands I don't buy it period. Have no use at all for any rustoleum product. Krylon dries fast retains a good color and gloss and can be recoated anytime. *


Are you saying you have no time for Rustoleum because it is a bad paint or more expensive or what?

Bye


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

Generally doesn't last very long. I find Valspar the best for rattle cans.


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## Fusion1970 (Feb 23, 2004)

Admin...Yes, I have sprayed the paint from the can to a glass jar quite a few times (as was done here with the yellow, orange and red). The only reason I have done this is because the paint is only available in spray cans, and after using probably 50 cans of it, I know the paint very well. The thought of screwing up a paint job with a paint I am unfamiliar with makes it hard to deviate from something I feel comfortable with. 

After spraying into the glass jar, it has to sit for awhile for the bubbles to dissipate. I can then thin it with laquer thinner and start spraying. I could also just go ahead and spray it with the can, but the airbrush atomizes it alot better for a faded paint job (one color to the next).

This boat is fiberglass, and was white gelcoat when I started. I paint clear lexan bodies for RC cars as well, but that is ploycarbonate paint to resist chipping when the body flexes. Luckily, that paint comes ready to pour!

Anyway, just follow directions; sand primer with appropriate grit paper, re-coat within the suggested time frame, let cure as suggested, etc. Also, spray the areas not easily seen first, then the parts that will really show. This will help avoid getting overspray on the parts that stand out while trying to spray the hidden areas. In other words, if you are going to paint the grill and front axle, paint the axle first, then finish up with a good coat on the grill. It's better to get overspray on the axle from spraying the grill, rather than the other way around.

Another suggestion is if you are going to spray it in your shed or garage, it might help to mist the floor with a water hose before painting to avoid dust being kicked up. 

Only other thing I can think of is the obvious- wear a respirator! 

As for a decent paint that is pretty durable, I have had good luck with Dupli-Color. You can find it at Wally World.

Good luck,
Greg


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Greg couldn't you just turn the can upside down and spray the aerosol out then punch a hole it the can and pour the paint out into the jar:question: And then save the rest of paint in a jar.


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## Fusion1970 (Feb 23, 2004)

Well, I probably could, but then I'd have to break out the airbrush every time I wanted to paint something. For small items, it's nice having it in a spray can. I have also thought about using one of those "straw" things for like a WD40 can, using it in place of the valve, and just shooting it directly into the glass jar, but I have not tried it yet.

Greg


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by admin _
> *Are you saying you have no time for Rustoleum because it is a bad paint or more expensive or what?
> 
> Bye *


IMNSHO. Rustoleum is not all its cracked up to be. It takes forever to dry, recoat windows is problematic, and even with a 24 hour dry period its still bale to have finger prints made in it. The stuff seems to take for ever to dry. I had at one time painted the fuel tank on a 5 hp IC B & S engine with rustoleum, it set for 3 or more weeks and the first time it ws filled the paint discolored and eventually started to dissolve from the small amount of gas that bubbles up and out of those old vented caps with the hole in the middle, and it gets on the tank.

I painted my 20 inch bandsaw I made with industrial grade Rustoluem in machinery Grey and it never did dry. I used rustoleum thinner, rustoleum primer, and sprayed it all iwith a spray gun..it runs like water even if you do not thin it........No, I have never had any what I would call luck or happiness with that stuff and do not buy it for any reason anymore no matter what the price is. The brands I mentioned in rattle cans IMHO are far superior to Rustoleum in ease of use and dry / recoat times..

Best bet is a quart of plain automotive enamel, a gal of thinner (can even use lacquar thinner for enamel automotive paint) and a small touch up gun or regular spray gun if you want a fast dry finish without runs and one that will last a lot longer. Couple of mist coats and a wet coat or two and come back in 30 to 45 minutes and its able to be handled.

Oh, I did remove all the rustoleum on that bandsaw, and redone it with automotive paint (Valspar) about $9.00 a quart for regualr enamel paint, and about $19 for a quart of non sanding primer and within 2 hours of spraying the machine was in use. I would still be waiting for Rustoleum to dry in this humidity, and its even worse when its cool out.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

That is good to know, Chippy. Now when you say enamel, you are refering to regular quarts of paint? Did you use a HVLP gun to apply it or something else? What primer would you recommend in this case after using the Ospho? I know that Ospho refers to itself as a primer, but was thinking a good primer then the paint would help even out the discoloration of the Ospho rust eating and smooth the finish a little better than paint alone. 

Thanks for the insight. In lieu of enamel paint (what I use on tractors) for restorations, I might go pick up Valspar instead.

Thanks for the wonderful insight, 
Andy


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

While there is not usually a compatability problem, I try to use what primer is also made by the company that makes the top coat I use. As previously stated automotive paint is super, and you can also get fleet grade whichis pretty druable as well. In referring to regular enamel, most companies have a basic enamel grade, and acrylic enamel, a polyurethane, and an acrylic lacquar in regards to types of paints. They get higher in $$ as you go up with the exception of the lacquar, but lacquar is not really suited to general painting as its very thin, usually needs to be handrubbed andbuffed to shine out, and surface has to be dead nuts flawless. In my referenc eto regular enamels I only use automotive, not enamels as sold in Lowes etc. The differences there is in the thiners you can or cant use if you spray it. Automotive paint is not suited to brush or roller, it has to be sprayed on. Enamels other than automotive types have limited selection on thinners, and you have to take whats available. Automotive on the other hand have fast slow or medium reducers which come in handy if its really ot out, or cool or cold out. It makes the difference in how long it takes the paint to harden up or remain sticky for days or weeks., or painting a large areas and getting tiger stripes as the paint id drying to fast. The right thinner allows paint to melt or flow into previous passes so you do not get that striped or hazy appearance commonly received with rattle cans or regular non-automotive type paints.

I really do not need polyurethanes nor acrylic enamels for most of what I paint. Regular enamel paint is what was used on most vehicles made up until about 1980......and now the regular enamel has been replaced for the mosty part with acrylic type.

You can add a catylyst to any of the enamels to make the surface harder, but that shortens potlife of the paint to 8 hours or less, and its gonna get hard in the gun......where I can let uncatylyzed paint in a gun for a day or two and its still useable. I use a Devilbiss MBC510 Siphon feed spray gun, which I bought new in 1963, and all I have ever had to do was replace op rings and packings and on occasion a fluid tip and needle as they will wear with use. I also have another MBC510 gun I had to buy when my son loaned my spray gun to a friend who use it and never cleaned it, after spraying imron paint, and I never thought I would ever get the gun clean, so I have two good pro grade spray guns..I aim to get a HVLP someday so I can reduce vapors and overspray and also save paint in the process.

I have a couple of small air brushes as well, but what I really use a lot of is my touch up or panel gun. I bought an el cheapo touch up gun from Chuck Homier Traveling Tool Circus about 15 years ago, and its been used hard and never missed a beat. Its liteweight, was cheap (still is cheap to buy less than $20.00 at Homier tools or Harbor Freight) holds about pint of paint and easy to use.

One thing about primers in general. They come in two flavors basically.sandable and non sanding. You can sand them all but non sanding may gum up your sandpaper, but if you can lay it on the metal or whatever your painting and its smooth enough to suit you, it can be sprayed directly with a finish top coat, without needing to sand it. Its non porus in nature. Sandable on the other hand really needs to be sanded and its intended to be sanded to obtain a glass smooth finish on repair jobs etc. While applying paint directly ontop of sandable type will work its bot as good as if you give it a wet sanding before hand. Sandable is poorus by nature and this porosity gives a better tooth to the finish coat after sanding, but it shuld not be left without a top coat in weather for a very long period of time as it can start to allow bleed through of rust etc, but you see a lot of cars with primered parts all the time..........which may or may not be sandable primer..........

I would go with a non sanding primer, unless of course you need a flawless finish that you intend to wetsand, and in that case I would use a sandable type. Try and get the primer to match in the catagory of the top coat color...You would rather use a dark grey or black primer under a dark top coat and a light grey or white primer under lighter colors. It also comes in a red or ruddy brown as well, but in automotive paints don;t confuse it with iron oxide rich primers that is commonly found in extreme heavy duty coatings of years gone by.

For aluminum you need a zinc chromate or poly or epoxy type primer. Most any automotive primer will work fine over Ospho.

It really does not matter what brand automotive paint you use as odds are its made by one of justs a few major manufacturers of this type paint. Duponmt is some high dollar paint, but they also have a line called NASOM, which is about 1/2 the price, and its really the same brand of paint, just a different set of numbers, more generic labeling. Valspar line of paint is hard to beat for the price and ease of use, and probably easier to find than NASOM. Ditzler also makes a paint (PPG) and so does MArtin Senior (Sherwin Williams) and there is a host of foreign companies as well.

Any automotive paint manufacturer probably has a color chip to match any tractor, and any dealer can mix up a batch from any paint codes. Paints sold by Tractor dealers and places like TSC etc is good stuff, but it still can't match a good automotive paint in terms of ease of application and dry times..........


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## Fusion1970 (Feb 23, 2004)

Damn good post! Very informative. Seems funny though to hear "Valspar". I immediately think "marine". 

Wonder what Awl-Grip would be like on a tractor? You could even brush it on! 

Greg


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