# 1964 Ford 2000 tractor throttle/rpm issue



## perryjosh64 (Aug 30, 2015)

Folks I recently fixed a gas tank issue then came need to make a new wiring harness. Now the issue is maintaining a constant rpm level. Whenever I'm mowing I attempt to set throttle/rpms but constantly have to manually adjust throttle as throttle with often increase/decrease. I expect it to bump down/up a little depending on thickness of grass but it will throttle up to extremes then I have to bring it down?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy perryjosh,

I was quite interested in your gas tank leak (typical Asian aftermarket equipment). How did you fix it? 

Regarding your throttle issue, it could be as simple as tightening the friction discs on the underside of the throttle shaft. OR it may be your governor acting up. Check the governor for a missing or broken spring.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Check also that your governor control rod moves freely. Lubricate connection points and work it back & forth.


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## perryjosh64 (Aug 30, 2015)

BigT said:


> Check also that your governor control rod moves freely. Lubricate connection points and work it back & forth.


Big T- not to be funny but where are the lubication points on governor as I can find no reference material stating such and with what (grease? Wd40?)?


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## perryjosh64 (Aug 30, 2015)

sixbales said:


> Howdy perryjosh,
> 
> I was quite interested in your gas tank leak (typical Asian aftermarket equipment). How did you fix it?
> 
> Regarding your throttle issue, it could be as simple as tightening the friction discs on the underside of the throttle shaft. OR it may be your governor acting up. Check the governor for a missing or broken spring.


Sixbales- as far as the leaky gas tank, bought new tank and new center mount shut off valve. Hooked everything up, leaked between tank/shut off valve. Replaced the o ring, leaked, tried sealant it leaked, made gasket it leaked, finally took shut off valve off and put plug back in and found that tank was leaking from around the seam between the center round piece and tank. Finally gave up and got gas tank repair kit from advanced auto and sealed the entire center piece and used a screw-in sediment bowl shut off valve and mounted it to right rear mounting point. Ran fuel line from it to carb and runs great now and no leak.


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## perryjosh64 (Aug 30, 2015)

BigT said:


> Check also that your governor control rod moves freely. Lubricate connection points and work it back & forth.


Big T- not to be funny but where are the lubication points on governor as I can find no reference material stating such and with what (grease? Wd40?)?


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hey perryjosh,

I was referring to oiling the connection points of the governor control rod (actually, I had an older style rod in mind).

If you are still having problems with the governor, check the governor compensating spring #20 and also spring #37. See attached diagram. The governor needs a resistance (load) to work against, the most common problem is spring #20 broken or missing.

Incidentally, everyone asks.....spring #20 mounts between bellcrank (item #21) and a tab under battery tray.


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## perryjosh64 (Aug 30, 2015)

Folks I've not been able to sit down with service manual yet and go through troubleshooting the governor and control linkage yet but this might be part of issue. I was checking out the linkage and noticed the governor control rod appears hardwired to governor arm with a length of electric wire? Could this be why when I hit rough spot engine rpms go up and don't come down unless done manually with throttle handle?


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## perryjosh64 (Aug 30, 2015)

This is photo of my governor control rod


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

WOW!!! What workmanship.....a ******* / country bumpkin repair. That's part of your problem. Is spring #20 intact?


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## perryjosh64 (Aug 30, 2015)

Short of, had the old spring (worn the hell out) and picked a spring from local hardware store that looked like old one and plugged it on. Concern is if it is not to spec and not doing job correctly?


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