# Converting from 6v to 12v



## VFord8N

My mechanic suggested that I convert my Ford 8N from 6 to 12 volts as it may improve its starting. The original should work as it was, in fact, designed that way (6volt). A proper conversion will cost me hundreds but will there be the benefits? What has been your experience with this type of conversion? All comments appreciated.


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## pogobill

I have two 8N's, one's 6 volts and the other is 12 volts. The original one is great, starts fine and is just the way I like it. Original and fun to use now and again. It works as it should, and I keep it as a restored unit. 
The other is converted to 12 volts, and although it's not like it was originally manufactured, I do use it much more and I use it all year round. It is more useful around here as with the 12 volts, I can boost it or boost something else with it without worries. I find that 6 volt battery chargers are getting more scarce these days, and I find that 6 volt batteries are getting more expensive as well. As I believe Ultradog mentioned in a different post, it's just way more convenient and practical to have your gear all 12 volt. 
Conversion is easy and it does require a bit of a cash outlay, but I think you would find that your tractor would be more user friendly.


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## Ultradog

VFord8N said:


> My mechanic suggested that I convert my Ford 8N from 6 to 12 volts as it may improve its starting. The original should work as it was, in fact, designed that way (6volt). A proper conversion will cost me hundreds but will there be the benefits? What has been your experience with this type of conversion? All comments appreciated.



The 6V vs 12V debate sometimes can get heated and will probably go on forever.
To me, a stolid 12V man, there really is no argument but here are some facts about the two types.
A 6 volt system is entirely adequate to start your engine and charge your battery.
Those tractors have run fine on 6 volts for 80 years now.
However,
A 12V system with an alternator is superior to a 6V system in every possible way.
They can produce way more amps than a generator. An alternator lasts about forever, requires zero maintenance and is way more reliable than a generator. An electronically regulated alternator is far more reliable than a generator which uses an antiquated system of electromagnets, points and springs in an old voltage regulator. It is hard to find a good V- reg anymore and most parts places have a no return policy on them. A generator requires oiling on occasion which many never get.
A 12 V system has been the industry standard for over 50 years and can jump or be jumped by almost any engine driven machine built since the early/mid 1960s. Cars, trucks, MCs, tractors, lawn tractors, boats, RVs, snowmobiles, 4 wheelers, etc, etc all run 12V.
12V batteries and cables are "off the shelf" items and usually carry a Much better warranty than a 6V battery does. 12V will run a miriad of things like sprayers, LED lights, even your cell phone charger and 8 track tape deck if you still have one.
12V battery cables are cheaper and easier to find, unlike big as your thumb 6V cables.
Theoretically an alternator is more efficient at charging than a generator and will produce more amps with less horsepower.
12 volts spins your engine over much faster and will start it better in all conditions - especially in extreme cold weather or if you have a worn engine.
A 12V system is safer in that most people can jump 12V negative ground to 12V negative ground but they do not know how to jump 6V positive ground without getting themselves run over or having a battery blow up in their face.
A 12V alternator uses less wires and is much simpler to wire and troubleshoot.
Changing to 12V is very simple and if you can make the bracket at home costs less than $100 plus the battery and any light bulbs that need to be changed.
A new alternator is cheaper than a generator overhaul.
I could go on and on with the advantages of a 12V with alternator conversion.
But... And this is important, I would not change over on a whim.
If your 6V is working good now and you don't need to run extra gizmos I would not change it. Remember the mantra; "If it works don't fix it." 
Some folks don't like the looks of an alternator hanging on the side of their restored tractor. That is an entirely legitimate reason in my book.
I have tried to present "just the facts ma'am" and am willing to be proven wrong by someone with more electrical knowledge than I.


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## VFord8N

Thanks for those thoughts from pogobill and Ultradog; words to reflect on


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## Ed Williams

I converted my 53 NAA to 12 volt for less than $50 and it works great. I used a 1976 Chevy 3 wire alternator, $30 bucks, instead of the 1 wire, $70, you just have to add a small light for resistance or hook up to the acc terminal of a regular ignition switch. I did have to add 3 of the external resistors in a series block located where the voltage regulator was originally mounted to get the correct resistance across the 6 volt coil. Resistors were cheaper than a 12 volt coil. Also, I used the pully from the original generator and mounted to the new alternator, exact fit, to be able to use the heavier Ford belt. Had to build a new mounting bracket for the alternator but use the original belt tension rod. Total changeover time was about 4 hours, but not complicated. Cost of 12 volt replacement parts is less than half of 6.volt parts. Another plus is 30-40 amps from alternator vs 10 from the original generator. So, added much needed work lights front and rear since have the power to operate them now. Would never go back to 6 volt. Tractor starts first time, every time vs slow crank with 6 volt and hard starting. Conversion wiring diagrams readily available on multiple tractor Web sites.


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## mac293

Regarding 3 of the external resistors: Please tell me what size resistors you added (ohms & Watts). Did you have to change out anything else besides the Generator? This should solve my problem with using a weak 12 volt battery in my 6 volt system.


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## mac293

Regarding 3 of the external resistors: Please tell me what size resistors you added (ohms & Watts). Did you have to change out anything else besides the Generator? This should solve my problem with using a weak 12 volt battery in my 6 volt system.


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## Ed Williams

mac293 said:


> Regarding 3 of the external resistors: Please tell me what size resistors you added (ohms & Watts). Did you have to change out anything else besides the Generator? This should solve my problem with using a weak 12 volt battery in my 6 volt system.


Sorry for the delay, but have been tied up recently. I bought the standard resistor for conversion from Yesterday's Tractor that were supposed to be 1 ohm resistance, but were .85 ohms on my meter. The resistance across my coil was very weak, so it took 3 of the resistors in series to get the recommended 3.5-4 ohms resistance across the coil. I wound up with 3.8 ohms resistance. Too low a resistance results in the coil getting hot, and too high a resistance results in poor spark. I don't know where this resistance range came from, but it is published on several sites.


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## Hacke

Tips & Tricks:
http://www.ntractorclub.com/howtos/howtos.htm


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## Ed Williams

mac293 said:


> Regarding 3 of the external resistors: Please tell me what size resistors you added (ohms & Watts). Did you have to change out anything else besides the Generator? This should solve my problem with using a weak 12 volt battery in my 6 volt system.


The alternator was the major change, but you also have to change all lights from 6volt to 12 volt. I bought 12 volt LED lights in a 4 pack for $9 on ebay. Also remove the 6 volt voltage regulator. It is not needed as the alternator has an internal regulator. I used this space to mount an insulated wood block for the resistor series, a 12 volt terminal block for all misc 12 volt connections including alternator control wire, a 12 volt ignition terminal for power to ignition system from switch, all switched 12 volt power, and the 194 bulb/socket alternator excitor wire. Very simple installation and versitle function.


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