# 1990 John Deere 2555 - hyd/trans/brake Question



## mwhynot (Apr 8, 2018)

I just bought a JD 2555 because everyone said it was a good tractor and didn't have a computer. Tractor runs great so I am playing with it learning the controls. The loader can lift the front axle clear but cannot lift a bucket of dirt. I did notice the brake oil light flicker a couple times so I parked to find out the problem. Since I don't have any manuals to reference I am wondering if the hydraulic, transmission and brakes are all one enclosed system. If so would a low oil brake light affect hydraulic pressure. Everything is dry underneath so no leaks. There is an oil stick by the PTO and its low. If this is indeed my problem then does anyone know the required oil. Most likely some JD special oil 

I did manually look at the first 30 threads then did a search on all 61 with no 2555 results

Thx
Mark


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Mark, welcome aboard the tractor forum.

First thing.......you need an Operator's Manual to cover all maintenance items on your tractor. Internet sources and ebay have a good selection of Operator's Manuals for a JD 2555. Not expensive.

The correct hydraulic fluid for a JD2555 is John Deere "Hy-Gard", P/N AR69444. You may be able to cross-reference to a Universal Tractor Fluid (UTF). Check the labels on the UTF bucket. The UTF must meet or exceed JD fluid specs. If your hydraulic fluid is milky in appearance, it's time to change it. Change filter. Clean suction screen. I found the following diagram on the internet illustrating the suction screen (item #15).


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## mwhynot (Apr 8, 2018)

sixbales said:


> Howdy Mark, welcome aboard the tractor forum.
> 
> First thing.......you need an Operator's Manual to cover all maintenance items on your tractor. Internet sources and ebay have a good selection of Operator's Manuals for a JD 2555. Not expensive.
> 
> ...


Thx sixbales. Guess I will be heading to the local JD Dealer. I am assuming with the suction screen so low on the reservoir that I best be rdy to catch some oil. Yup...operator manual is a must and will be shopping for one this week. Guess I will be using my 1985 IH 384 for awhile yet.

Every time I take a look at the JD I see something I should know more about. Like the 2 little lever switches under the cab by the right wheel. Looks like the Hyd pump with a rabbit and turtle on one and can't tell what the other is. Will take a pic later when I am at the mill. Also need to get the tires loaded since it really has no weight. Think I will be enjoying the cab and heater when plowing snow lol


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

The suction screen may never have been cleaned. Your tractor is 28 years old. The screen may be plugged with sludge. 

The control with the rabbit and turtle is probably your flow control valve, which is used to control the rate at descent of your lift with a heavy implement on the back. On my Ford tractor this also controls the rate of lift....very sloooow lift in the turtle position. I keep mine in the rabbit position, but my finish mower is very heavy, I have to be careful lowering it or I can damage the valve stems (breaks the Schrader valves loose) on the tires upon impact.


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## mwhynot (Apr 8, 2018)

I found some operator manuals on ebay which covers a range of models including my 2555 but there is no year manufactured range. Is this a concern or did JD not change anything until they put out a newer model.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

According to tractordata.com the 2555 was made from 1984-1992. They state that JD made two versions of this tractor, as detailed below:

*"The John Deere 2555 was available in two versions. The basic model has the collar shift transmission, naturally-aspirated engine, 540 RPM PTO, 2WD, and ROPS. With the TSS transmission the engine was turbocharged, PTO upgraded to 540/1000, and it was possible to add a cab and four-wheel drive."*

The previous model was the 2550 (1983-86), and the next model was the 6200 (1993-98).

You apparently have the second version of the 2555 (cab & 4WD). Sounds like the two versions were produced at the same time. Check with the seller of the manual to determine if the features of your tractor are covered in the manual.


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## pvanderlugt (Feb 19, 2021)

Hi, I'm new, and I guess kind of want to add to this question. I have a 1990 era 2555 FWD, Turbo engine, no cab. I want to change my hydraulic, and am draining the tractor and removing the filter. I'm only getting about half the fluid I expected, based on the capacity. The hydraulics were operating fine when I stopped to change. So I can't believe the tractor was low, by over half, and still functioning. What am I missing. I've drained the rear plug by the base of the arms. The plug next to the cartridge filter, and the clutch. I haven't pulled the screen yet. Am I missing another plug that accesses a large amount of oil in this tractor? Thanks


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

Although I think Tractordata has an enormous wealth of information it does contain a few mistakes. I find no location on JD's parts site with an explanation describing their use of option codes to confirm the 2 versions of 2555 built for sales in N America. I'm aware that this model was built in both Saltillo & Mannheim factories which might contribute to different versions. 
On subject of oil capacity when changing hyd oil onee never gets out the advertised dry capacity amount because some oil is trapped in hyd components such as the pumps & lines


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## pvanderlugt (Feb 19, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> Although I think Tractordata has an enormous wealth of information it does contain a few mistakes. I find no location on JD's parts site with an explanation describing their use of option codes to confirm the 2 versions of 2555 built for sales in N America. I'm aware that this model was built in both Saltillo & Mannheim factories which might contribute to different versions.
> On subject of oil capacity when changing hyd oil onee never gets out the advertised dry capacity amount because some oil is trapped in hyd components such as the pumps & lines





Tx Jim said:


> Although I think Tractordata has an enormous wealth of information it does contain a few mistakes. I find no location on JD's parts site with an explanation describing their use of option codes to confirm the 2 versions of 2555 built for sales in N America. I'm aware that this model was built in both Saltillo & Mannheim factories which might contribute to different versions.
> On subject of oil capacity when changing hyd oil onee never gets out the advertised dry capacity amount because some oil is trapped in hyd components such as the pumps & lines


I appreciate what your saying, and I find it logical and agrees with my experience in other instances. But the "capacity" that I find in JD literature, for a 2555 with the TSS option, which I have, is nearly 15 gallons. I don't think I've got 7 gallons in my buckets. The tractor is new to me, so I'm trying to bring its fluid up to a "known" change date. This problem wouldn't be so bad, but I'm trying to change it over to "Synthetic" hydraulic oil, and this would make it like a 50/50 conversion. That to me is less than ideal. I read a post on another site, where a guy was advised to crank the tractor for thirty seconds, and this resulted in more fluid being drained. But something about that feels wrong. Or is it good advice?


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

JD has also had some incorrect info published. IMHO I think there won't be much difference in hyd oil capacity between each trans/pto option. I'm speaking from being employed by a JD dealer from '65-'87 having served as a dealer service manager my last 13 yrs of employment. I don't remember any JD utilty tractor with a 3 or 4 cyl engine holding over 10 gallons of hyd oil. Even the 6 cylinder models with larger trans cases only held 15 gallons
Bottom line is fill trans case to full mark on dipstick with engine idling & you'll be good to go if dipstick is OEM.


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## pvanderlugt (Feb 19, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> JD has also had some incorrect info published. IMHO I think there won't be much difference in hyd oil capacity between each trans/pto option. I'm speaking from being employed by a JD dealer from '65-'87 having served as a dealer service manager my last 13 yrs of employment. I don't remember any JD utilty tractor with a 3 or 4 cyl engine holding over 10 gallons of hyd oil. Even the 6 cylinder models with larger trans cases only held 15 gallons
> Bottom line is fill trans case to full mark on dipstick with engine idling & you'll be good to go if dipstick is OEM.


You wouldn't consider a good idea, to start the tractor for 15 seconds, with plug OUT, to try and remove more oil? I ask, only because someone advised it on another forum. I know that I would not normally run a machine dry, AT ALL, but I'm not a trained mechanic.

Since I'm swapping to synthetic, and I'm not sure of how well they it will mix with whatever the previous owner used. Would you consider it ok, to refill the tractor with the synthetic, knowing it's only a partial switch, and then run the tractor for a few hundred hours, then drain again, and refill with synthetic, eventually making the swap that way?

I really do appreciate your replies.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

I don't have any knowledge about use of synthetic oil. I only utilize JD Hy-Gard in my tractor. I personally would not knowingly operate the hyd's on my tractor for 15 seconds with drain plug absent. I would install syn oil & if need be change it again. Would you knowingly rotate your automobile engine crankshaft for 15 seconds with drain plug absent? I sure wouldn't do that to my truck! YMMV


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## pvanderlugt (Feb 19, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> I don't have any knowledge about use of synthetic oil. I only utilize JD Hy-Gard in my tractor. I personally would not knowingly operate the hyd's on my tractor for 15 seconds with drain plug absent. I would install syn oil & if need be change it again. Would you knowingly rotate your automobile engine crankshaft for 15 seconds with drain plug absent? I sure wouldn't do that to my truck! YMMV


I'm glad you backed up my thinking on that. Running it, even just turning it over dry, just didn't seem like a wise thing to do. I very much appreciate your help.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

I just downloaded & viewed the 2555 operators manual & with TSS/MFWD it shows 13.3 gallons. Dealer where I was employed sold very few MFWD tractors so my personal knowledge of them is very limited.


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## pvanderlugt (Feb 19, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> I just downloaded & viewed the 2555 operators manual & with TSS/MFWD it shows 13.3 gallons. Dealer where I was employed sold very few MFWD tractors so my personal knowledge of them is very limited.


That's the quantity I keep getting. But I probably have 7 gallons at most drained. I'm having a bit of trouble getting the screen plug out, but I don't think that is going to produce a whole lot more. I probably should go with Hy Guard, but i'm invested pretty heavily in the synthetic, I like synthetic. I'm in between a bit of a rock and a hard place. But either will work. Just takes money, right?

Thanks again,


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

Strike screen retaining plug on RH side of trans case squarely with a BIG hammer then attempt removing it. I would advise to check screen before installing the oil. I think synthetic oil should be fine if it meets or exceeds J20C spec's!!


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## pvanderlugt (Feb 19, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> Strike screen retaining plug on RH side of trans case squarely with a BIG hammer then attempt removing it. I would advise to check screen before installing the oil. I think synthetic oil should be fine if it meets or exceeds J20C spec's!!


Hey Jim,

I hope you still get notifications for this talk. You helped me in the past, so I'm going to press my luck. I did finally, with a good pop with the hammer, get my screen plug removed from my JD 2555. Now the screen is being stubborn. Do you have any suggestions? I have the plug removed from the opposite side as well. But I haven't had any luck pushing the filter out either.

Do you have any ideas? Thanks,, Pete


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

Just utilize some long nosed pliers & remove the screen. Your screen isn't the 1st screen to be difficult to remove. Just remove it in pieces & install a new screen.


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## pvanderlugt (Feb 19, 2021)

I'm not sure why the long nose pliers didn't occur to me, why did I buy them if I don't think about them at times like this. ?? 
Thank you again. I'm hoping to get it out, intact. 
Thank you again for the advice.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

You're welcome


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