# 2600 starting issue



## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

I have a ford 2600 diesel that can be a bit hard to start when cold but with a shot of starting fluid will crank, but after being run a while say 2-3 hours if I turn off can be very difficult to get restarted, it is a bit slow turning over, seems it should start easier not harder, when running she's strong, problem seems to be getting worse, could this just be a battery issue?


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy bacon6,

Welcome back to the tractor forum. 

Slow cranking speed will definitely cause hard starting. Clean your battery and starter connections to bare metal, including ground connections. Clean your starter ground to engine contact/mount. 

The correct battery for a Ford 2600 diesel is a 4DLT (Big capacity battery). I buy mine at local Tractor Supply Store.

You may also have to replace the starter. I bought a rebuilt starter recently for my tractor at my local dealership. Price wasn't too bad for a New Holland dealership. Works well. I replaced my old starter because it was chewing up the ring gear teeth on the flywheel. 

Low compression can also be the culprit. When you use starting fluid does the engine knock briefly when starting??


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

I do get a knocking yes


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Another question for you.....Does your diesel burn oil? Do you add oil frequently?This will give us indication of engine condition. 

First thing we need to do is get the cranking system in top condition.


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

No doesn't seem to burn oil


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

Don't know if Calling it a knock is accurate more like a piston slap is what it sounds like (I may be way off on that) but it only does it once or twice and only if I've sprayed starting fluid to try and restart and she's been run a while, also when running/working she's a horse sounds and feels strong, it's not at home now had a flat bushhoging yesterday be next weekend before I go get it


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

By the way thanks for your help!


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy bacon6,

Does your tractor put white smoke (unburned fuel) out the exhaust when cranking? If not, we need to pay attention to the fuel side as well as the cranking system.
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Attached is a bleeding procedure for your tractor. Thought this might help you to some degree. You may have a blockage/restriction (dirt) somewhere in your fuel system. 

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter? Might be a good time to change it. 
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Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen. 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

If your pump is a CAV, it should have may have a bleeder screw (5/16" wrench fits it). If so, open that until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. Otherwise loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittings in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. The engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting tightened. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

It does put out the white smoke when trying to start


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

Ok just went and checked the alternator had voltage output of 13.4, does anyone know what the proper output should be?? Also pulled battery and am charging and will have checked tomorrow also both battery cables look bad so am going to replace them, thinking maybe alternator may not be putting out enough to maintain charge, any ideas??


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Hey bacon6,

An alternator should put out about 14 volts. So your alternator output is low. 

FYI, your alternator works in conjunction with an electronic regulator, which might be the cause of the low output voltage? 

Maybe an auto parts shop can test your alternator?? I don't know. It's an old fashioned system with a regulator. 

Get the same size or larger battery cables. I believe the old ones are copper.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

13.4 is about all you can expect. It may seem a bit low by some standards. but 13.3 to 13.6 is typical of the older Lucas equipped Fords, whether generator or alternator. I don't think the alternator is part of your starting problem unless it's also draining the battery while the engine is off. This is a possibility, particularly if you have the battery temp circuit with a sensor under the battery tray. That circuit is well known for developing a draw through the regulator. You can check for a draw with an analogue voltmeter connected between one battery post and it's cable end.


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

I'll check I've had battery charging for 20 hrs still not showing fully charged


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

Had battery tested BAD, only about 4-5 months old anyway putting in a new one and replacing battery cables


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

Ok going to replace both battery cables what gauge cables should I get 1 or 2


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

YT sells 2 gauge cables for a 2600. Your choice. But remember....bigger is better!

PS: You should get warranty on your old battery? Was that a 4DLT? I've never had one fail so soon. My current 4DLT is 4-5 years old, but lately needs charging if I let the tractor sit idle for a week or so. I always disconnect the battery (fire concern) when I park the tractor, so it's an internal battery thing.


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

Yeah was warranty on battery, got cables on order, hopefully this will take care of my starting issues will give an update later Thanks yes on 4dlt battery


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

"UPDATE" Ok finally got to work on tractor today, installed new battery and 2 new cables, when installing cable to solenoid found a small wire ( brown about 10 gauge) that clips to solenoid loose, thought the post on solenoid was broken but after cleaning the dirt off found it was fine got the wire on good, now she turns over like never before and fires right off !!!!!! THANKS FOR ALL Your help guys


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

More issues today, after installing new battery 2 days ago and it starting just fine I ran her for an hour or so, parked it went out this AM and it turned over just fine thought it was going to start so let off ignition switch, didn't quite start, tried again and after a couple seconds of fast turning over slowed way down again not starting like battery was weak never got it to start now this is a new battery I understand that on a diesel that wonce started it doesn't draw from the battery or alternator my question is if the alternator is bad could it be draining the battery instead of charging it?? Or should I be looking else where, before installing new battery and finding loose wire to solenoid when trying to start we saw some smoke coming from starter/solenoid area but couldn't be sure exactly where, when battery is charged it turns over good so not thinking starter is bad but wondering about solenoid Have the battery charging now will try again tomorrow when fully charged if it starts I was going to remove alternator and have it checked Any ideas?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

If the alternator is charging while running, there's no point in having it checked. From your latest description I think you need a starter. Smoke is a sure sign of heat, and heat is generated by poor contacts and/or overload.


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## Fredneck (May 25, 2012)

Fedup said:


> 13.4 is about all you can expect. It may seem a bit low by some standards. but 13.3 to 13.6 is typical of the older Lucas equipped Fords, whether generator or alternator.


there's a reason Lucas is the black sheep of the English royal family.


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## film495 (Nov 1, 2013)

something is drawing the battery down. one option would be to fix it, possibly you could add a marine type battery switch someplace, to disconnect the battery leads when sitting. I've really only seen those on boats, but I guess the same principle would apply.


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## Fredneck (May 25, 2012)

film495 said:


> something is drawing the battery down. one option would be to fix it, possibly you could add a marine type battery switch someplace, to disconnect the battery leads when sitting. I've really only seen those on boats, but I guess the same principle would apply.


the same principle definitely applies. i've got a battery disconnect on 2 vehicles here because it was far simpler than finding the cause of the current loss. it works like a charm. my plow truck no longer needs to be charged every time i want to start it, i simply have to open the hood and turn the switch on


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

Yes actually pulling starter now


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

Just installed new starter, turned over and started just fine!! Combo of bad cell in battery and fried starter. Thanks to all


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## Fredneck (May 25, 2012)

good deal, bacon. everyone likes a happy ending


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## bacon6 (Apr 5, 2015)

New starter battery and cables Starts great


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