# D110 flywheel or starder problem not sure



## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

Hi guys this is Robert I have a D110 lawn tractor that I am working on thare is something going on with the flywheel or the starder I'm not sure how to explain it but when I go to start the thing the flywheel spins sometimes and other times it dose not it looks like the gear on the starder may not be linening up with the flywheel gears just right. I tried putting a different starder gear on the knew starder I got and it still dose the same thing. 

I got a used flywheel on ebay and it lookes like some of the gears on the flywheel are not straight it's hard to explain. Are all of the gears the same on these starders or are they different. I'm pretty sure I have the right starder for the right flywheel for this it's the anyone know how I can post a video on this website


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

What engine is it?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Have you had a look at the flywheel? If there is a broken or worn tooth where the meets the starter when the engine shuts down you will always have a problem.
If the battery is low, the starter may not have enough juice to kick the starter drive out to engage the flywheel.
Just a couple of thoughts.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

I'm thinking it needs a valve adjustment sloppy valves on many air cooled twins (I presume it's an air cooled twin) will cause the compression release to malfunction and that is what it sounds to me like. Why I asked what engine and should have asked How many hours and have you ever adjusted the valves.


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## Rolex (11 mo ago)

Try this, mark the front pully then spin the crank a little by hand to move the flywheel then try to start it.

Do this quite a few times, 10 or 20

If it starts every time your flywheel is the problem not the starter.

Mostly a motor will stop at the same point each time this will wear the flywheel at the same point.

If it will not start when on a new point each time that would point to the starter.

Is this the original starter ? have you counted the teeth on the starter ? do they match the number of teeth listed for that motor ?

Is the starter pinion throwing to it's full length ?


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Again, I don't believe it's the starter or the flywheel at all. I'll be able to tell if I get an answer on the engine, brand, if the valves have ever been adjusted and if any service has ever been done on it. Until then, it's all a crapshoot.


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

I am not sure how to figure out the right pinion gear tooth count Thought that all starters were fairly simple identical to each other Engine is not off time I've had it started before before but it's the starter gets stuck on the flywheel and it doesn't the engine over


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Could be a sticky bendix then but without the make and model of the engine, hard to give you an answer.


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## Rolex (11 mo ago)

robertzirbel839 said:


> I am not sure how to figure out the right pinion gear tooth count Thought that all starters were fairly simple identical to each other


Do a search for a new starter for your model they will list the number of teeth, search multiple sites to ensure they all give the same advice, then count yours.


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

Why would the teeth count on the starter matter. So here is the flyweel part number and the gear number 

Flywheel 591758 and the gear is 593935 with 13 teeth


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

robertzirbel839 said:


> Why would the teeth count on the starter matter. So here is the flyweel part number and the gear number
> 
> Flywheel 591758 and the gear is 593935 with 13 teeth


I think Rolex is trying to confirm that your starter bendix is the right diameter, based on teeth count.

I absolutely agree with his proposal concerning moving the engine from it's stopped position and trying to restart. This has the starter engaging on "fresh" flywheel teeth that have no wear.

If it starts properly when that's done, it's the flywheel teeth that are the problem.

Rolex is giving you some very good advice.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

You didn't mention the make/model # of the engine, but most JD110's came with a Briggs 31 Series,19hp, single-cylinder, Intek engine. It sounds to me like you're finding yourself in the 31 Series Briggs Intek "Starter Jungle".

If that is the case with the engine Make/Model.... They came with *THREE* different starter gear/ring gear configurations depending on the actual Briggs Model#. The ring gear is the key and could be either steel, plastic, or aluminum. They all three have different angles on the teeth. They all three take different starters. They all three take different starter gears. Welcome to the 31 Series Intek "Starter Jungle". You have to run the starter gear/ring gear combo listed below, they are *NOT INTERCHANGEABLE*. Starter gears are easy to change, but they can be a PITA without the rights tools. Most guys that work on a lot Briggs starters will eventually break down and buy the OEM Briggs tools shown below to remove the starter drive/Bendix C-clip, they are up to $65 each now retail, but they make it a 5-minute job when you're charging a customer by the hour and do 20-30 over the course of a mowing season. Here's the paths through the jungle depending on your Model # and ring gear material....

*310700-310799 Engine Model --- Plastic Ring Gear*
Starter # 497595-- Starter Gear # 693058 (16 teeth)

*311700-311799 Engine Model --- Aluminum Ring Gear *
Starter # 693054-- Starter Gear # 693059 (16 teeth, but different tooth angle)

*312700-312799 Engine Model --- Steel Ring Gear*
Starter # 693551-- Starter Gear # 693699 (14 Teeth)

Briggs Starter Guide

*19522 C-clip Removal Tool*









*19435 C-Clip Install Tool*


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

so here is my model of the engine 31p677-0152-g5 19.5 hp the part for the starder is 593934 the gear is 593935 
so what i am hearing is it may a cluster f to get this fegiured out i have to get a knew flywheel from ebay and ill try the knew starder i got i did not know that these starder had so many things about them did not know about the count of theeth on the gear and why that matters so much


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

That 593935 starter gear is a STEEL 14 tooth gear for a STEEL flywheel. Very rarely have I ever seen a STEEL ring gear that had to be replaced. Plastic and aluminum ring gears it's pretty common, but not steel. You can buy just the Steel ring gear and not the entire flywheel.


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## Rolex (11 mo ago)

I am not familiar with your unit my information has come from many years back, my second trade when I left school was as a auto electrician, when swapping starter motors the first thing to do was count the teeth.

If the valves are not set just right on these small motors the decompressor will not work so the motor will lock up and stop cranking when the compression is too high, this also places a huge load on the starter and ring gear, if everything lines up perfectly most times this will not be a problem but if things are a little worn or out of place the high compression adds to the problem.

I have a TEA20 and the ring gear is worn in one spot, the starter that was in there when I got it worked but it had one too many teeth I could only assume that was the cause of the worn spot on the gear because over time things just got worse.


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

So an update on the d110 my flywheel key sifted on the flywheel and now it won't come off I almost gotten to run today any idea on how to get it off


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Get a flywhilel pullor from Harbor Fright and pull ilz lid off. Zimple. It didn't sift, it sheared off and you need to getz a new one and replaze it. Probably a strait key.

I might add that usually a sifted key is the result of the engene coming to an abrupt stop from hitting something. Inertia keeps the flywhiel spinening and shearz the key.


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

It happened when I went to starded it and one of the flywheel puller bults got snaped inside the flywheel hole now I'm in a problem


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Take the flywheel nuz off and put it back on loose, where it protects the threadz and smack the top of the nuz with a hammer. That will pop the flywheel looze from da crankshaft and you can lift it off. The crankshaft haz a taper and the flywheel sitz on that. The key locates the flywheel and setz the timing. After youz replaze the key and sez the flywheel back on and tighten the nuz, it should stard up if the valvz are set to the proper clearancz. If the valvz are too looze, the comprezion releaze won't operate right and the engine won't turn over right. You has to release the comprezion for da stardzer to rotate the engine to startz it.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

robertzirbel839 said:


> It happened when I went to starded it and one of the flywheel puller bults got snaped inside the flywheel hole now I'm in a problem


Removing Flywheel without Puller


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

OK cool thanks I will try that tomorrow it has happened to me like the 2nd or 3rd time now and every time I try to use that flywheel puller the screws that come with the flywheel puller they snap inside the flywheelhole so I have to extract them it's just super super annoying


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

That's because you may not understand  how to help the puller. Using the same "sudden impact" principal... You use the puller to draw tension on the flywheel rather than a pry bar underneath, then smack whatever part of the puller is putting pressure on the crankshaft. If your key is distorted, especially a 1/2 moon key, it can be a real PITA.

The picture below is a OEM Briggs 19203 flywheel puller. Note the hole in the center... That's where you put a big brass, or steel, drift on the end of the crankshaft and smack it with a 3lbs hammer after drawing tension to apply the "shock impact" (sometimes I use the vibration of an air impact hammer). If you try to just use those puny grade 5 bolts&nuts to "pull/muscle" the flywheel off, you'll snap them of almost every time. I've never come across a flywheel yet that I couldn't get off using one of these simple pullers and some patience. Whatever you do, DON'T beat on the flywheel itself with a hammer, you'll knock the magnets loose if it has a charging system.


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

I used this tool but I guess I don't really undestand how it work or how to use it. I'm almost done gething the flywheel off but since the keyway got stuck in the wrong spot it's harder to get that flywheel off. I have another pulled for car stuff but I don't used it becouse the holes are different. I hope I can get it off soon with no more problems. What I don't get is why did it shift when I whent to start it 🤔 it almost started and it just would not start its that keyway


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

The flywheel key way is what sets the timing....... It's out of time if the key way isn't straight


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

So an update on the d 1 1 10 tractor I finally got it started today it's gonna need some adjustments to the governor and the throttle I do not like the governor and the throttle link is set up on these tractors does anyone know a good way to set them correctly so I don't overreave the engine and that everything works


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## robertzirbel839 (11 mo ago)

So I just got the D110 lawn tractor to start I had to replace the pto cable on this thing and not the pto dose not work when i pull the lever for the blades I belive I installed in reverse somehow. When I go to engage the blades the pto lever dose not hit the pto switch what did i do wrong. I intaled the cable on the blades I did remove the string that controls the tension on the pto lever and maybe I installed in wrong . If any one knows how to fix this let me know. The switch works just fine.


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