# Yanmar YM240 1976 w/ front end loader - good deal?



## Furndog

Hello All,

I am new to the forum and will soon be new to owning my first tractor. 

I am considering purchasing a 1976 Yanmar YM240 tractor with a front end loader, back blade, finish mower (has sat for 4 years), pallet forks, and a single disk digger implement. The tractor has a few flaws, all of which I can take care of pretty easily - one headlight is missing, the other has a burnt out bulb, the ignition has moisture in it, so it is hanging loose and must be started by jumping two of the wires (it started right up on the first try), the hi / lo shifter is broken down by the base (you must use a pipe wrench to shift), and the bar that goes between the top of the three point hitch and the implement you connect is pretty much rusted in place, so you cannot adjust it, though the seller says it is adjusted nicely for all the 3pt implements included with the tractor. 

The metal on the tractor has areas of surface rust, but it is not bad at all and no where I can see where it is deeper than the surface. 

It has around 750 hours.

The price we have agreed on for everything, including manuals, extra blade and belt for the mower, and a bar to connect to the tractor so you can add a hitch, for $3400 cash.

Does this sound like a decent deal? The gentleman selling has a business in town, seems like a nice person and says it does not leak any fluids at all. The pavement beneath where it sits is completely dry as well. 

Have a good day, I look forward to posting and reading lots of posts on this awesome website!

Matt


----------



## winston

I would believe that to be a good price if the engine and drive train are in good condition. No smoke, not much blowby, no bubbles in overflow bottle, hydraulics all work good, no unusual noises in drive train, brakes working good. That 240 seems to be a work horse.


----------



## Hoodoo Valley

Welcome furndog! Is it 4 wd? I must adnit that a 34 year old tractor with all little problems would have only 750 hours? Don't sound right, but if it runs good and has 4 wd, I'd go for it.


----------



## Furndog

Thanks for the replies 'winston' and 'tractor beam'. The tractor is only 2wd. The seller told me when he bought it from the original owner about 7 years ago to landscape his newly built house, it had about 600 hours and he put on about 150 hours doing odd jobs around the house in the 7 years. Perhaps it has rolled over, but all in all it seems like a sound tractor and I will be purchasing tomorrow evening. 

I obtained the serial number and engine numbers so I can print them up on a receipt. The s/n is YM240-xxxxx (5 numbers) and the other number is 2TR20A-334xx. Can anyone tell me if the 2TR20A mans that it is only a 20hp? The owner tells me it is 24hp.. I want to be sure he is not misleading me. Please advise if possible.

One more question - the top link bar that goes from the top of the 3pt hitch to the attachment is pretty well rusted and it will not budge. It looks like I can buy a new one from Tractor Supply for $20, but it says it is for 25-40 hp. The URL is Adjustable Top Link, Category 1 - 0267759 | Tractor Supply Company Is this the one I need? 

Thanks everyone!


----------



## winston

The 2tr20a is is the engine model #. I believe you have 20 pto horsepower and 24 engine horsepower. Yours is the American sold version, the grey market version is a ym2000. I suspect these are by far the most populous Yanmars around. Workhorses! Measure your existing top link body and buy one the closest match.


----------



## Furndog

Thank you winston. I purchased the tractor and brought it home.. now to begin learning about my new toy. 

None of the electrical devices are functioning - horn, the lights on the dashboard, the one headlight (the other was missing). I am first going to start by looking at the fuses, I have learned they are just wire fuses, but in doing a quick search, I am not able to find the fuse box. Any thoughts on where it is? I read somewhere online that it is near the gas tank, but I have not had luck finding it yet. 

If I find the fuses are OK, can you guide me where to look next? Thanks for your help. I am uploading a photo of my new toy.

I appreciate everyone's help!


----------



## Furndog

I found the fuses under the dash and they look to be fine. Does anyone have thoughts on what I should troubleshoot next to resolve my 'no accessory power' issue?

Thanks!


----------



## winston

You stated you had a manual so that should have a wiring diagram. You need an inexpensive volt/ohm meter to check it out. Search results for: 'volt meter' May end up getting in the dash area, not familiar with the 240 so I don't know how easy that is. Make sure you check power across all your fuses. I actually had one that was in place and a good fuse and somehow had lost contact in the fuse box.


----------



## Furndog

Thanks Winston. I am going to replace all four of them and replace the nuts that hold them down as they are a bit rusty. Perhaps one or more of them are not getting proper contact. I appreciate your help!


----------



## Furndog

Hi guys, duh, I figured out why I had electrical issues. The ignition was bad, I have the original part on order, but for a temporary fix I bought an ignition switch at Tractor Supply. Once I hooked the proper wires to IG, ST, and BAT - all of the electrical is fine. I bought two 35w 12v tractor lights from Tractor Supply and installed them and they are working fine. I also ordered a fuse block from JC Whitney, I am going to install it so I can use standard 5A, 10A, 15A fuses instead of those wire fuses - those are not fun to work with. 

I need to replace the battery in my tractor. Can anyone tell me the best type or specs to look for (such as Cold Cranking Amp rating)? Or do I need to get one that is specific to my YM240 tractor?

Thanks for all the help guys!


----------



## winston

I've read all kinds of opinions on batteries on these forums. I believe the majority believe a regular battery like you might buy at Walmart is the best option. Have read of some putting expensive marine, etc, and with all the shaking around they didn't last but a couple of years. Others have had inexpensive batteries in there for several years with no problems. I would think one with high cranking amps would be a good thing. Really haven't answered your question but a little food for thought. I've had my tractor for 3 years and it came with a Vietnamese battery, don't know whether that is good or bad but I will go with a regular type battery when it goes out unless I read something between now and then that would convince me otherwise.


----------



## Furndog

Thanks Winston. I think all my battery issues were coming from the fact that the owner replaced the original ignition switch with a tractor supply universal model that did not have the exact configuration. I ordered, received, and installed my original ignition switch (great price from bestfarmparts.com), charged the battery and for the past week or so, it has worked just fine. And, by the way, it is a Walmart type regular car battery and was new in May 09. Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experiences. I am going to post a new topic about my hydraulic lift. I appreciate all the help, I am really getting to know the ins and outs of my tractor and loving every morsel of knowledge I am picking up!


----------

