# Hay Baler



## Flying Wedge Acres (11 mo ago)

I have a 2017 Case IH Farmall 75C. It has a 540 PTO. I am looking at baling my own hay. I like using the larger round bales. What is the largest round baler my tractor can operate? Thanks in advance


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

Welcome to Haytalk
When AC was out on my JD 4255 I pulled my JD 467 rd baler with my Kubota M7040(64 pto hp) on flat Texas soil making 4X5.5 rd bales with not problems @ 6 mph baling three 9 ft swathes of 2+ bales to the acre. YMMV


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## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

Welcome...
Alot depends on terrain.... At 65(ish)Hp you should be ok with a 4x4 and many 4x5 balers. You need to consider the weight of the baler and push/pull impact on the tractor driveline if not operating on flat ground. I don't know as I'd look at a 5x.. I can run my 5x6 w/85hp, but tractor runs hot some days, but the baler is much happier with 125hp. and normal operating temperature. I deal with rolling hills which can make a tractor grunt when finishing a roll. B.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Pto rpm is irrelevant out power is. What kind of beans does it have?


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## Flying Wedge Acres (11 mo ago)

SidecarFlip said:


> Pto rpm is irrelevant out power is. What kind of beans does it have?


65 hp


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

65 will run most 4x5 balers on flat ground at maximum fill. Not a sileage (high moisture bailer) or one with bale slice. I would suggest a New Holland Roll Belt with infeed discs in the bale chamber as they reduce required input power and you will need at least one remote but 2 is better. If your ground isn't flat, it won't be enough for a maximum diameter bale.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

I'll take a JD rd baler due to it having no duckbill or sledge rollers/gears to contend with.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Not me but then we all have our preferences. Lots of used one out there in both colors. He might prefer a twine over net baler anyway. Twine only is cheaper. Me, I like it both ways.


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## Flying Wedge Acres (11 mo ago)

Thank you very much. This gives me a place to start!


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## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

There's very little difference in bale quality anymore between brands. It depends on how much technology(monitor/sensor functions) you want and the number of scv's vs electric functions your tractor can support. B.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Most if not all new balers will be electronic control instead of electric / mechanical control. I don't believe you can buy a new one that isn't. Used. certainly but new??? One thing about electronic control is when sold the new buyer will know exactly how many total bales a machine has run because it's recorded in the ECM memory, so no fudging on that at all. One issue I have with electronic control is replacement parts are expensive if they fail and if one component (like a microswitch) for instance fails, the bailer won't bale at all. They have gotten complex (like everything else today) and complexities cause failures.

SCV's (if that means hydraulic couplers) aren't an issue with me as both my tractors have 3 pairs plus flow control. Don't believe I've every had all of them coupled up before but I usually use 2 pairs. On my new baler one set for the hydraulic pickup and one set for the tailgate. On my mower, one set to lift and lower the header and one set for tongue swing. My Khun rake is 3 point mount no hydraulics needed and so is my tedder. My bat wing shredder takes one set for wing fold and the rigid chopper takes none. My grain leg takes one set with the flow control to throttle the hydraulic motor. My old JD backup mower takes just one port as the header drops by gravity and the tongue is manual swing. I always buy my tractors with 3 sets and flow control as it increases the sale price when selling used. Same with the pto's and transmissions. I always get the most I can in transmission gears and always a 2 speed (54-1000) pto even though all my tools use 540 there may come a time when I buy a 1000 rpm implement.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

All NH round balers use an electric 12 volt linear actuator to control the duckbill insertion and the cutter knife far as I know. Not familiar with JD or Vermeer or any others for that matter. My new Kubota don't have a duckbill so no linear actuator for that.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

JD rd balers manufactured in the last 26 yrs utilize electric actuator arms for twine or net application but don't have a duckbill. I could bale with my JD rd baler with a couple switches not operating if I choose to depending on location of switch on my baler but I carry a spare switch($36.00) & would probably just replace if faulty.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

You know, I don't. One thing I like about the new bailer is the twine arms overlap each other unlike the NH with parallel rigid arms. Not that I use twine all that much, but I do use it once in a while and like I said before, if I'm round bailing combined wheat straw and the humidity is low, I''ll use twine in a quick space pattern to cut product loss. The new bailer will start in twine for a quick wrap and finish in net so long as I pre-program it into the computer touch pad. The NH was not capable of that.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

Due to the fact that upon activation netwrap covers entire bale circumference in one bale revolution I see ZERO advantage of applying any twine to a bale of crumbly wheat. Please explain how a "quick wrap of twine" will save any crop loss because I see no advantage to applying any twine to a crumbly bale. For my needs my baler could be net only because I've never made 1 twine wrapped bale in 28,794 bales.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

SCF
When baling wheat straw you could reverse you twine/net application procedure & apply 1 complete wrap of bale with net to hold crumbly crop then switch to twine wrapping for added wrapping strength.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

All I'm implying is what the new baler is capable of. My old traded in one didn't have that capability. The one thing the new one is capable of and I'll use it the variable density while bailing. My old one didn't have that so I had to run constant density which made spearing them at times difficult. With the new one I'll pre set the core to be low density and as the bale grows, the density will increase. Low density core makes handling much easier for me. Kind of curious about the crossing over each other twine arms as well. My old one had 2 parallel fixed arms and while they were never an issue (when I twined which was rarely). I'm curious about how the overlapping arms twine a bale and the consistency of the wrap. This baler has a huge twine storage compartment, capable of 8 mega balls. Same deal with net. One in the wrap position another in the to be used position and an additional 2 in the storage compartment, not that I'd ever use the compartment anyway. I'll probably use that to store a tarp to cover the machine if I have to leave it sit somewhere to keep it dry. Nothing worse than cleaning wet chaff that has dried on a bailer because it sat in the rain somewhere. Been there and did that before. I never wash any hay tools, just blow them off. Exception is the disc bine. It gets pressure washed on the underside because of the 'cud' it makes and deposits it on the shield undersides and that promotes corrosion. Cutter bars get washed as well and then sprayed down with cheap motor oil cut with diesel fuel when I store it in the winter. My SOP is run first cut with the previous season's knives and then change then out with new knives prior to second cut. I get my knife sets from Shoup. Good quality American made knife sets at a very reasonable cost. I usually keep at least one complete set on hand along with new securement bolts and bushings. I keep a couple turtles, lifters and skid shoes as well.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Never had an issue with net strength, ever. I use Bridon net, always have. I use NH twine in mega balls. Thought about trying the JD Tamanet but never did. I have used Kubota Net in the past but Bridon wraps better for me. Kubota net is pretty. it's orange and white and has their logo in various spots on the roll as well. I don't like changing out net rolls anyway. Suckers are heavy and cumbersome, especially when loading the NH baler because of the front high up loading. The new baler with 2 rolls in sucession, should eliminate any in the field loading anyway as I typically use a roll and a half every year.


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## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

Personally I've found the variable core to be a 'set it..and forget it' option. It's nice to soften the core when starting wet hay, but not something I do very often. It's nice to have all different adjustments on the monitor of the newer balers, but I can't remember the last time I changed a setting. I do notice a considerable difference between the cores of my JD vs NH with fixed chamber. B.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Never bailed 'wet hay' and I don't run acid application either. I'll check the windrow for RM with my Delmhorst prior to and then use it to monitor the shoes in the bale chamber for constant RM but I can usually tell how dry it is by the bailing dust produced. If it's not at 15 or less, it don't get bailed anyway.


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## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

I agree with you on ideal moisture/conditions. But unfortunately that perfect world gets rained on occasionally!! Or the option of picking up a damp window is better than waiting out a several day rain event, or unnecessary roading of equipment. Since my hayfields are several miles apart and equipment becomes scattered between fields...sometimes you have to make the best of a less than ideal situation. But I understand what you're saying. And it costs just as much money to make a sh*tty bale as a quality one, but it sometimes saves a trip around the field with a tedder. B.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

SidecarFlip said:


> All I'm implying is what the new baler is capable of. My old traded in one didn't have that capability.


And all I'm stating is netwrap will save more crop when wrapping the bale especially when crop is crumbly that twine ever could.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

BinVa said:


> I agree with you on ideal moisture/conditions. But unfortunately that perfect world gets rained on occasionally!! Or the option of picking up a damp window is better than waiting out a several day rain event, or unnecessary roading of equipment. Since my hayfields are several miles apart and equipment becomes scattered between fields...sometimes you have to make the best of a less than ideal situation. But I understand what you're saying. And it costs just as much money to make a sh*tty bale as a quality one, but it sometimes saves a trip around the field with a tedder. B.


My remote fields are a 30 minute tractor drive from here so I can relate to that as well but, I never bale wet. I'll park the equipment there and call the wife and have her pick me up. Done that plenty of times in the past. I rarely if ever ted a field. I own one but it stays in the barn for the most part. I use a Kuhn Masterdrive rotary rake and it fluffs up a windrow and lets the air get under the forage and if it's wet or damp, I just rake it again. The rotary is the best rake I ever bought and I've tried all of them, from side delivery ropers to wheel rakes and far as I'm concerned, the best is a rotary. Not for me in tedding anything and blowing the leaves off. Rotaries like a Kuhn are not a cheap date (around 10 grand) but they work for me. Interestingly, the other hay farmers around me have all switched to rotary as well. Musta been watching me over the years. When I got the new Kuhn I put my older Geihl Rotary up for sale and sold it in a day to another local grower. It was an oldie but goodie. I only use mounted rotaries, never pull behind. Simpler (no hydraulic lifts involved) and I can bring every wondrow straight out with no curved tail I have to chase with the baler.

If it was that bad, I'd rake it into the ditch and call it good (done that before btw). Rake it in the ditch and roast it in the fall.

Why I have master disconnects on the tractors and why I carry full insurance on everything. I don't worry about mischief related damage. Cannot start them anyway. Never had an issue yet.

I cannot sell a shi**y bale anyway. My customer won't buy them so I'd be relegated to burning them anyway. They really stink btw.

This year I'll do some pictures of everything so people on here can see how I do things. After all these years, I have it fine tuned, most times. Mother Nature still has the upper hand but I a willing participant in her game.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

One thing I NEVER do is cut low. I keep my disc bine set at about 1.5" of cut stubble left. That way the cut forage is always up from the ground, especially after I rake it and usually I only rake it one time. The forage sitting on top the cut stubble also permits air underneath. Other advantage of cutting high is, I don't dull the knifes with small rocks and I don't get twiges through the machine either when cutting on treelines.

Had people tell me I should cut it low and that I'm foolish for not doing it. I just agree and keep on doing it the way I've always done it. Cut high and keep the crimp rolls tight and lay down the widest swath I physically can without driving over the cut crop on the subsequent pass. I even have the wide swath vanes for the mower but I rarely use them unless the forage is extremely heavy, then they go on the deflector. The side wings are always in the farthest open position I can run them at too. Like I said, I'll do some pictures this year and post them so you all can see what I do and I basically do everything myself.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> And all I'm stating is netwrap will save more crop when wrapping the bale especially when crop is crumbly that twine ever could.


Appreciate your comments. I rarely bale wheat straw unless it's a contract bale for someone local. I have no need for straw myself as all the stock has been sold off.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

You're the person that originally started commenting about the possibility of baling wheat with your new baler & your new baler had capability to switch from net to twine so you could save crop loss.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Fair statement as well but I only round bale wheat straw on contract. I have none myself. I do not row crop and never have. Just like I run small squares of wheat straw for the local road commission all on contract. Well, not anymore. Sold the NH 575 last fall. Got top buck for it as well. Sold it on Tractor House in 2 days.

I may or may not contract bale wheat straw this year. Depends on a lot of different things, none of which I have control of.


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