# 1966 Ford Cav injection Pump



## mjp9348 (Jun 9, 2014)

*Hi Everyone , 

I figured I will get right down to the facts on this . Model 4000 3cyl industrial backhoe tractor , diesel , I cannot read the tag on the injection pump But I can read model #3030 

I have had a long 3 weekends on this fuel system on this tractor , first the tank was mucked along with the lines , the filter housings , the lines going into the pump . 

Cleaned it all and reassembled it all , I have a very strong flow to the pump , I received some advice about the filter in the pump ( I didn't know) because the fuel system would not prime , I pulled the filter and it too was mucked up , I pulled the spring and fitting inside the housing (where the filter sits) and cleaned that all up , it was coated and frozen.

So I go to prime this pump today after all that , and the best bleed I can get is a very faint stream trickling down the side of the pump . This pump has barely any pressure it seems , I know nothing is going up into the injector line , but it will just drip out of the connections for the injectors . 

Any ideas on what to do ? Should I try to rebuild the pump at home ? 
Should I purchase a new ebay pump for 600 or have it pro rebuilt along with the injectors , I am just frustrated to this point because I just cant get it to prime .. 
thank you much . Mike *


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I'm no pump man but have you tried freeing up the metering valve?
Forgive me if I go over something you've done before...
Remove the throttle linkage and kill cable from the pump.
Remove two nuts on the top pump cover.
Very carefully lift the cover up about 1/2 - 3/4"
There is a spring holding it that you do not want to stretch too much.
Notice that the little fuel shutoff crank on top of the cover moves a little slide bar fore and aft under the cover.
Look to the back end of the pump and notice the slide bar moves another little crank.
That is your metering valve and it sometimes will stick in the closed position.
Take a screw driver or popsicle stick and work that rear crank back and forth a few times.
Now replace the little slide bar properly, replace the cover and two nuts and try bleeding the injectors again.
A couple of afterthoughts.
Yes you can do this while the pump is on the tractor.
It is very important that your pump and surrounding areas are Clean before you open it.
I have had to do this on two of those pumps and they both fired up after that.
Lastly It often helps to have someone hook onto the tractor with a pickup and bleed it that way.
Open the injector lines and drag the tractor around for a while till you get fuel to the injectors. Then retighten them and it will likely fire.
Below is a pdf file on that pump.

http://www.solidebolide.nl/downloads/CAV Workshop Manual fuel-injection-pump.pdf


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## mjp9348 (Jun 9, 2014)

well Ultradog I tried everything you suggested , and yes that metering valve was hard to move , but I cannot get it to prime , I have decided to take the pump off BUT I cant get it off , Is there a gear at the end ? I marked the timing on the pump and the tractor . is there anything else ?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

There is a small cover on the front of the main timing cover behind the radiator.
About 5 bolts hold it on.
It's a bit tight in there but remove that small cover and you will see there are 3 bolts holding the gear onto the injector pump shaft. Remove those bolts and the pump will come off. This is assuming you have the 3 bolts removed that hold the pump body onto the engine. That back one is hard to get to.
FYI, The pump drive gear is held captive by the timing cover and can not skip a tooth or come out. The gear is indexed to the pump shaft by means of a dowel pin so it only goes on one way.
The only retiming you have to worry about is resetting the line on the body of the pump to the zero (or just below) on the engine. See photo.
I just changed the pump on my own tractor a few weeks ago.
EZ


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