# starting issue



## Garylou (May 19, 2020)

Hey there...have had ford 9ns 2ns and 8ns never had this issue. Sometimes when I go to start the 8n I have to temporarily put a jumper from coil to positive battery side to start. If the key is on after this it will turn off afterward and then restart all day without the initial jump. I had to recently replace the resistor as I would have to jump across it from time to time to start. After replacement she fired up every time all summer. Now having this issue. I am confused.


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## sheenist (Apr 3, 2020)

Garylou: If you know that the electrics to the ignition system is good, such as voltages to the coil when starting, you may have a compression problem. When the motor has cooled off overnite, the oil around the piston rings drains down, there letting compression drop. To test for this, remove the spark plugs while the engine is cold. Squirt a shot or two of motor oil in each cylinder. Hit the starter and let it turn over a couple of times, letting the oil get to the rings. Then replace the plugs and try to start it without your jumper wire to the coil. You may find that it starts more easily. Remember, try this only when you are sure the voltage to the coil is up to snuff when cold. Good luck.
Sheenist


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## Garylou (May 19, 2020)

Thanks Shennist, perhaps I am not describing it correctly. There is no problem in starting the tractor at all if you occasionally have to jump to coil. The thing fires up almost before you can let go of the starter button. If I always temporarily jump it it starts every time. I don't have a compression problem. The issue seems to be that for some reason there seems to be a temporary lack of juice to coil. ( Maybe). Battery is good and fully charged. It's not the end of the world or anything and I can start the machine very easily anytime ...after sitting all night or for days and weeks. I was just wondering if anyone else had this ever happen. It's just kinda wierd.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Garylou, your tractor was originally a 6V positive ground system. If this is your case, you may have the battery installed backwards. Spark is reduced when backwards.


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## Garylou (May 19, 2020)

Thanks sixbales...but battery is installed correctly. One would actually have to work at connecting it backwards as the size of the posts would give one a problem and you'd have to either move the cables or expand the posts or something. And yes it is all original 6 volt negative ground.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

The original system was 6V positive ground. Yours has been switched around somewhere in its history. 

One thing to check is the polarity of the coil in the circuit. With a negative ground, the coil input terminal would be the (+) terminal of the coil. And the wire from the coil to the distributor would be connected to the (-) terminal of the coil.


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## Garylou (May 19, 2020)

sixbales. there is one connection on top of an original 6 volt front mount coil. The negative side of the system feeds it. I obviously didn't make it clear this was a very recent problem. This tractor has ran consistently the same for the last 10 years given regular maintenance. I would have to disagree with you on the statement that the "original system was 6V positive ground". Just say'in


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## Garylou (May 19, 2020)

Oops I read that wrong...thought you meant negative. I apologize for the ignorance....senility creeping in on me I guess...but there is still only one wire feeding coil. Recent problem.


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Do some research. All Ford gas engine tractors were positive ground until the mid 1960's when they switched to 12V negative ground systems.


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## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

Getting back to your problem: correct me if I'm wrong here...
1) it's 6 volts, negative ground
2) "I have to temporarily put a jumper from coil to positive battery side to start."
3) "I had to recently replace the resistor as I would have to jump across it from time to time to start."
Sooo...
1) be 100% sure coil is 6v, external ballast type
2) be sure ballast resistor is for 6v system (my GUESS is 1.5 ohms...someone here would know or research).
3) be 100% sure coil + goes through resistor to switch, -- terminal to distributor (points).

When cranking, the battery under load means starter is probably getting 4 volts. The ballast resistor is normally bypassed so coil gets full power when cranking. Once started resistor drops 2 to 3 volts to the coil.

Points condenser (capacitor) is critical...new doesn't mean good. If your meter has a capacitor checker (disconnect to test) it should be roughly 0.22 to 0.47ufd. Points contacts must be clean.

Coil itself could be bad or going bad.

6 volts resistance is critical. Grounds (points plate, distributor body, engine to frame, battery connections, switch terminals & internal switch contacts, etc.): everything must be really clean & tight. Electrical contact spray & dielectric grease helps.

A good voltmeter tells a lot. Meter -- black lead on good ground, check coil +...points open, key on, 6.3 volts or so. Points closed about 4 volts. Then cranking still should be about 4 volts.



Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


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## Garylou (May 19, 2020)

The problem is obviously in the resistor setup. The original resistor was shot and needed to be bypassed to start. It was replaced with one from Napa...not exact replacement but correct voltage and all...worked for a whlie just fine...now I have found I must jump across it to start, the immediately disconnect jumper and all is well...Tractor is positive ground...not negative....thanks for the tips


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Check your PM inbox.


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