# Position Control Lever



## JerryE (11 mo ago)

Just purchased a M7060. The 3 pt arms do not lower close enough to the ground. On the control panel, the stop for the position control is above the stop for the draft control. This is blocking the position control from moving to the bottom of the panel. Is this the way it is supposed to be set up? I know about moving the control arms to the closest hole in the arms.

I was told that the control lever can slip around the stop by pushing to the outside. My control lever is flush against the outside of the slot and I can not move the lever around the stop.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Not familiar with your unit but on my M's with draft and position control, in order for the lift arms to reach the lowest position, I have to have the draft control lever down as far as it can go.


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## JerryE (11 mo ago)

The draft stop is all the way down. But the 3 pt stop will not go past the draft stop. I can bypass the 3 pt. stop but then there is no stop to set the height of the box blade. I run one pass with the box blade, raise the implement, turn around for the next pass, then need to fool around finding the same setting. I guess it is not a big deal, we are not building watches. But would really be more convenient.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Please take a picture of the control quadrant and post it. Kubota usually supplies a set of adjustable stop knobs that can be set anywhere on the quadrant but can be over ridden by moving the lever past the detent. Do you have them on yours? Both mine do and are available at a Kubota dealer as replacement parts. They index and ride in the slot on the quadrant and are used to obtain repeat positions without guessing.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

Yeah, pics please.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

Here's a couple pics of my M9540 levers. Top/outside lever is lift, lower/inside lever is draft. The stops can be seen. The first pic shows the lift lever below the stop. Second pic is lift lever above the stop. In regards to the draft lever, if I needed it lower I would pull the lever toward me and bypass the stop.


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## JerryE (11 mo ago)

Yep, exactly the same control as I have. The 3 pt stop can only be lowered until it comes in contact with the draft stop. I can bypass the 3 pt, but then there is not a way to set the height.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

JerryE said:


> Yep, exactly the same control as I have. The 3 pt stop can only be lowered until it comes in contact with the draft stop. I can bypass the 3 pt, but then there is not a way to set the height.


I still don't understand.

My lift lever has no contact with the draft stop.

My draft lever has no contact with the lift stop.

So in my case, I can lower the lift lever to the end of the slot regardless of where the draft lever or draft lever stop is located.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Both my M9's are exactly like Richard's (minus the worn off paint and leaves in the cup holder) and just like Richard, I can lower either lever to the bottom of the slot independent of the other one so I don't understand either.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

I'm starting to wonder if the draft sensing block (on the outside back of the pto casting below the the top link mount) is not clearanced correctly or if the linkage has come loose????

You have to set the clearance between the top link forging and the stop block to a certain clearance. I'd have to look it up but it is the workshop manual. I know because I had to reset mine when I added the 2 speed flip shaft pto drive as it takes a different back cover casting than the single speed although the clearance setting is the same. There is also an adjustable linkage with a screw sleeve and jam nuts involved.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Just checked the WSM... Clearance between the top link mount and the stopper block can be between 7 and 8 mm with no load on the top link and the sensing rod is between 175 and 215 mm so there but the turnbuckle jam nuts must be tight. Easy to check the clearance with a feeler gage and a metric tape measure for the rod length (overall length, bend to bend. Hope that helps.


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## JerryE (11 mo ago)

I think I have it. talking about only the 3 pt adjustment stop. It will only slide down until it comes in contact with the draft stop. I can bypass the stop by moving the control lever to the right. Can you lift up on the control lever until it comes in contact to the lower side of the stop? This should get me the lower height I need to use my b blade and be able to return to the same position. I'll give it a go in the morning.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

JerryE said:


> I think I have it. talking about only the 3 pt adjustment stop. It will only slide down until it comes in contact with the draft stop. I can bypass the stop by moving the control lever to the right. Can you lift up on the control lever until it comes in contact to the lower side of the stop? This should get me the lower height I need to use my b blade and be able to return to the same position. I'll give it a go in the morning.


Yep. You've figured it out. If you look at my pics, my lift lever stop is pre set in the middle of the range. To go around it I simply toggle the lever outward. If I need to bypass the draft stop I toggle that lever to the left.

So, if you have your lift stop at the bottom of the slot you will need to toggle the lever outward to get to the bottom of the slot.

Yes, you can move the lever until it hits the stop, then toggle around it if needed. You can even stop lever movement in the middle of the stop. With mine set as it is I toggle around it to get full range.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Kubota uses what they refer to as 'Mixed Position Control' so the draft settings work with the position control all the time. All draft does is pull a ground engaging implement like a moldboard plow of sub soiler up a bit to mitigate wheel spin and when the imposed load drops on the upper link torsion shaft, it allows the implement to return to the pre set depth that you set on the position control lever. Really has no use other than with ground engaging implements Mine usually stays in the full down position. The clearance between the stop block and the upper link forging is critical to proper operation when it' being used.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

SidecarFlip said:


> Kubota uses what they refer to as 'Mixed Position Control' so the draft settings work with the position control all the time. All draft does is pull a ground engaging implement like a moldboard plow of sub soiler up a bit to mitigate wheel spin and when the imposed load drops on the upper link torsion shaft, it allows the implement to return to the pre set depth that you set on the position control lever. Really has no use other than with ground engaging implements Mine usually stays in the full down position. The clearance between the stop block and the upper link forging is critical to proper operation when it' being used.


I've had a 3pt plow on my Kubota twice. That's the only time I've used Draft Control.

I've heard guys say they use it when leveling with a BB but I've never tried that.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

That would only work if the rippers were extended. If just grading, the upper link forging would not react to the BB. Not enough force on it. The test of the torsion component is to hang a 150 pound weight on the top link to cause the torsion shaft to deflect. You can control the sensitivity of the top link deflection and resultant pull out by adjusting the linkage rod but Kubota don't state if it needs to be shortened or lengthened with the turnbuckle so I'd say it's a trial and error deal. Nothing in the WSM about adjustment at all, just the specified length which I presume is the median setting.

Never fooled with mine. It's set to factory length and locked. Like I said, I have set the stop block to upper link spacing because I changed out the pto cover when I went to the 2 speed pto. The 2 speed case is a couple inches longer than the stock case cover and the kit comes with a new drawbar as well. Really easy install as well. The 2 speed gearbox is pre assembled and ready to put in. All you do is remove the 12 securing bolts, pop the old one off (of course you have to drain the transmission first, align the input shaft and coupling and slide the new case on. They even include a tube of 3 bond gasket maker in the kit. The cover is heavy with the gearsets assembled so it's a 2 person job. You slide in on the locating dowels and button it up. It's a 2 shaft 2 speed with a 540 6 spine shaft and another 1000 21 spline shaft. Changeout is just like the old JD's, elevate the back of the tractor (I use heavy duty truck ramps) so the fluid don't run out, remove the internal snap ring, pull one shaft and install the other and replace the snap ring. I was gonna get the externally shifted 2 speed but I need the 21 spline and the 6 spline both. All the torque specs are included. Really a simple changeover, other than the cost not bad. The kit is 1100 bucks at your friendly Kubota dealer...lol I needed to reset the block clearance when I did mine and the kit also comes with a new top link forging.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

SidecarFlip said:


> That would only work if the rippers were extended. If just grading, the upper link forging would not react to the BB. Not enough force on it. The test of the torsion component is to hang a 150 pound weight on the top link to cause the torsion shaft to deflect. You can control the sensitivity of the top link deflection and resultant pull out by adjusting the linkage rod but Kubota don't state if it needs to be shortened or lengthened with the turnbuckle so I'd say it's a trial and error deal.  Nothing in the WSM about adjustment at all, just the specified length which I presume is the median setting.
> 
> Never fooled with mine. It's set to factory length and locked. Like I said, I have set the stop block to upper link spacing because I changed out the pto cover when I went to the 2 speed pto. The 2 speed case is a couple inches longer than the stock case cover and the kit comes with a new drawbar as well. Really easy install as well. The 2 speed gearbox is pre assembled and ready to put in. All you do is remove the 12 securing bolts, pop the old one off (of course you have to drain the transmission first, align the input shaft and coupling and slide the new case on. They even include a tube of 3 bond gasket maker in the kit. The cover is heavy with the gearsets assembled so it's a 2 person job. You slide in on the locating dowels and button it up. It's a 2 shaft 2 speed with a 540 6 spine shaft and another 1000 21 spline shaft. Changeout is just like the old JD's, elevate the back of the tractor (I use heavy duty truck ramps) so the fluid don't run out, remove the internal snap ring, pull one shaft and install the other and replace the snap ring. I was gonna get the externally shifted 2 speed but I need the 21 spline and the 6 spline both. All the torque specs are included. Really a simple changeover, other than the cost not bad. The kit is 1100 bucks at your friendly Kubota dealer...lol I needed to reset the block clearance when I did mine and the kit also comes with a new top link forging.





SidecarFlip said:


> That would only work if the rippers were extended. If just grading, the upper link forging would not react to the BB. Not enough force on it. The test of the torsion component is to hang a 150 pound weight on the top link to cause the torsion shaft to deflect. You can control the sensitivity of the top link deflection and resultant pull out by adjusting the linkage rod but Kubota don't state if it needs to be shortened or lengthened with the turnbuckle so I'd say it's a trial and error deal. Nothing in the WSM about adjustment at all, just the specified length which I presume is the median setting.
> 
> Never fooled with mine. It's set to factory length and locked. Like I said, I have set the stop block to upper link spacing because I changed out the pto cover when I went to the 2 speed pto. The 2 speed case is a couple inches longer than the stock case cover and the kit comes with a new drawbar as well. Really easy install as well. The 2 speed gearbox is pre assembled and ready to put in. All you do is remove the 12 securing bolts, pop the old one off (of course you have to drain the transmission first, align the input shaft and coupling and slide the new case on. They even include a tube of 3 bond gasket maker in the kit. The cover is heavy with the gearsets assembled so it's a 2 person job. You slide in on the locating dowels and button it up. It's a 2 shaft 2 speed with a 540 6 spine shaft and another 1000 21 spline shaft. Changeout is just like the old JD's, elevate the back of the tractor (I use heavy duty truck ramps) so the fluid don't run out, remove the internal snap ring, pull one shaft and install the other and replace the snap ring. I was gonna get the externally shifted 2 speed but I need the 21 spline and the 6 spline both. All the torque specs are included. Really a simple changeover, other than the cost not bad. The kit is 1100 bucks at your friendly Kubota dealer...lol I needed to reset the block clearance when I did mine and the kit also comes with a new top link forging.


I added a 2spd kit to my 9540. I cheated on the fluid drain. Parked on a steep downhill. Didn't lose any. A few years after adding the 2spd I sold the only attachment that needed 540. So I never change the shaft anymore.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

ovrszd said:


> I added a 2spd kit to my 9540. I cheated on the fluid drain. Parked on a steep downhill. Didn't lose any. A few years after adding the 2spd I sold the only attachment that needed 540. So I never change the shaft anymore.


Must have been a STEEP downhill. The rear pto case cover extends all the way to the bottom of the main gearcase. Least on my M9's it does. Actually, I did it for an ulterior motive. I don't need rated rpm and power to run the rake or the discbine so I plug in the 21 spline shaft with a 21 to 6 adapter and run at 1700 rpm instead of rated rom. Easier on fuel and still plenty of torque rise. My grain leg is 21 spline as well. You realize they come in 2 designs, flip shaft and internal gear change with a shift lever on the back case itself?


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

SidecarFlip said:


> Must have been a STEEP downhill. The rear pto case cover extends all the way to the bottom of the main gearcase. Least on my M9's it does. Actually, I did it for an ulterior motive. I don't need rated rpm and power to run the rake or the discbine so I plug in the 21 spline shaft with a 21 to 6 adapter and run at 1700 rpm instead of rated rom. Easier on fuel and still plenty of torque rise. My grain leg is 21 spline as well. You realize they come in 2 designs, flip shaft and internal gear change with a shift lever on the back case itself?


Mine is flip shaft.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

ovrszd said:


> Mine is flip shaft.


I didn't realize when I refitted mine that there were 2 options. I thought that the only option was the flip shaft but I found out (after the fact) that you could order from whole parts, either one. Don't really matter to me anyway, changing out is a quick operation so no big deal. Besides the second stub make a great paper weight when not in use. I keep mine on the shelf in the shop with my heavy duty over running clutch I use on the choppers. Being aware that all earlier M series tractors have that single brake plate, I always want to mitigate failure because upgrading entails a split and I don't ever want to go there. Don't know what the current rate is for a split and don't want to find out. With the hydraulic shuttle, there is nothing in the bell housing to fail except maybe breaking a spring on the damper plate from abusing the forward and reverse shuttle feature. I don't do that either. When I shuttle either of mine, it's always at reduced rpm and never a high travel speed so I'm not stressing the damper plate springs at all. Longevity is always paramount in the back of my mind. Just like tires. If I break traction for any reason, I'll stop and engage FWA and/or engage the rear or front diff locks as required. I see on the newer units, the come with limited slip front's or with auto engage. Mine are 100% manual via a pair of foot pedals on the back side of the operators station, fine with me. I had one Kubota a while back with limited slip bi speed turn and I didn't like it at all. Tire wear was an issue and considering what new shoes cost today, I don't need that expense.


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