# 1954 farmall super A



## farmer_wv (Sep 16, 2014)

Hi All,
I have my grandfathers 54 super A thay I'm trying to get back in top shape.
I have it running but can't get it to smooth out. Cleaned the carb twice and still having the same trouble. I can run the adjustment screw in or out and get no change.
I have changed coil points condenser and plugs n wires.
Checked the timing also.
Does anyone have any ideas? Was thinking about getting a new carb but wanted to ask the experts first.
Is one brand of carb better than another for these tractors?
Thanks much


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Have you soaked the carburetor, or just used spray cleaner? Soaking the carb for a few days can really make a difference, unless its rust you are dealing with, then you may have to replace it. I get the carb soaking solution we use at work through the local auto parts store. It comes in a metal pail with a basket you put your parts in and then lower into the solution. We use Hydro Seal II by Gunk, but there are other similar products out there. I've had carbs at work that were caked with varnish 1/8" thick that cleaned up to shiny metal after a few days in the solution.

That said, how rough does the tractor run? My Farmall H and 350 Utility both burble and pop a little bit when running, mainly at idle. My dad said they have done that since new. I always chalked it up to inefficient carbs not mixing the fuel like a modern designed unit. If the engine speed is changing or surging, then you probably have a carb issue, or perhaps a problem with the governor. The flyweights could be worn where they pivot, or the linkage that connects the carb to the governor could be worn.


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## farmer_wv (Sep 16, 2014)

I used a spray cleaner (zercon).
I can remember this tractor running like a sewing machine.
I think sitting to long has created the issues.
The carb had no buildup that I could see.
Why would the adjustment screw not effect anything when I turn it?


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Was there any rust in the bowl when you cleaned it? My 350 Utility had rust blocking some of the passages in the carb, forcing me to use stiff wire to clean them out. If there is rust or varnish in the carb jets or passages, the needle won't do anything because the flow is being restricted by the blockage instead of the needle.


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## farmer_wv (Sep 16, 2014)

It really looked clean as a pin. Took it apart and shot cleaner through the passages.
I had taken it to work and had a auto mechanic watch what I was doing. He said it looked good.
Pretty much has me stumped


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Have you checked the spark advance on the distributor? The one on my Farmall H needs to be rebuilt because it kicks back against the starter and I have the distributor turned full retarded on the spark and it still is running advanced. You can loosen and turn the distributor as the engine is running to see if it affects how it runs. Just mark your current position well so you can set it back there if there is no change. The flyweights on my 574 were rusted and stuck, and it never idled worth a darn. I rebuilt the dizzy on that one and cleaned and lubed the weights and now it purrs like a kitten.


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## Rodsih300 (Apr 4, 2014)

I have a 300 Utility and had the same problem. Usually the solutions mentioned already work very well, if it i a carb problem. However, i think you have a vaccuum leak, probably on the intake gasket or on the governor linkage flange. You can tell by a little (very small tube) of propane around all the gaskets. If you have a leak the idle will smooth out when the propane stops the air.


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## farmer_wv (Sep 16, 2014)

Thanks for the replies. I did check the distributor. It runs the best where it was positioned to start with.
I will check around the flange and gasket for leakage. I had not thought to do that.
Thanks much


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