# Help!!! Brakes on B250 international



## jwooles (Dec 8, 2014)

Hi. I'm looking for assistance of how I remove the brake seals from a B250 international McCormick please?

Thanks in advance.


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## Strawberry (Dec 18, 2014)

Hi, just got one , looking for brake information to, left hand brake stuck in off position, right hand goes right down and nothing happens. So far i have clean the shaft, remove grease nipples and spray wd40 , remove foot plates to get better access.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

Resurrecting an old thread here, I just bought a B-250 and it needs some TLC. Both of my brake pedals are all the way down and do not return to the up position, but provide no breaking power. Where should I start? Does anyone have a diagram of the system? I am confident that I will be able to get it working again, but a schematic/diagram and some advice from knowledgeable people will certainly help get me started!


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

These use a mechanical disc brake system on each side. When they wear out it is a matter of replacing the parts, not really any effective means of adjustment. The good news is they last for decades once renewed.

I recommend replacing both actuators when the discs are replaced, as the pivots and release components wear out and will trash the new discs. The parts are available from http://old20tractorparts.com 

Buy the parts manual so you can see the configuration or a repair manual. The repair manual for these is also called a Serviceman's Manual, and can be found with a net search for either title.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

RC, thanks for the input! I will definitely be spending some time getting to know this tractor better. I'm glad to hear that old20tractorparts.com is your recommendation because I was alsready looking at parts there. I think I'm gonna pick up the service manual and get to work. Cheers!


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

So just to follow up, I took my brakes apart today and found mouse dens in both of them and the brake pressure links (connect the pressure plate to the adjuster screw) were seized up. I cleaned out all of the junk and dirt and sprayed penetrating oil then light machine oil on the links and put everything back together and they work great now. Now that I have good brakes again I think it's time to find a new clutch fork so I can drive...


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

So following up, I was a little too quick to claim victory, it turns out the brakes work but barely. on a hill I practically have to stand on the pedal to slow down. It looked like there was plenty of material on the pads but is it possible that the rotors are glazed or too smooth after years of neglect? What's the best way to recondition the rotors? I really don't want to spend a couple hundred bucks on new parts.

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

I suspect the actuators themselves are frozen. Each one consists of two plates held together with springs. Between the plates are balls that roll up ramps to energize the actuators.

The actuators are not normally serviceable, but if they set for years the balls may be frozen. Carefully remove the springs of the actuators on a large flat surface and be sure the balls are rolling freely. Check to be sure the balls are not flat, and there are no grooves worn so deep the balls fail to roll up the ramps.

If the actuators are not energizing, you can stand on the brakes forever and not much will happen.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

Thanks RC but unfortunately it's not the actuators, I took those apart when I took the brake stack apart to clean them. I cleaned and oiled the rollers and they more freely, the pedals move freely but right to the bottom and then no more pressure, I guess I'm answering my own question in that it must be the wear material on the pads is too thin. Do you know if brakes from a b414 will fit a b250? There is one on Craigslist in the local area and I'm thinking about buying it for the steering box and wheels/tires and it would be a sweet bonus if the brakes would work too. 

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If you have OEM part numbers 395161R1 or B513885 IH they will interchange.

This list of models using the same discs may help: 
Case-Ih Tractors:
275, 2300 (Qty:2), 2424 (Qty:2), 2444 (Qty:2), 3414 (Qty:2), 3444 (Qty:2), B414, 276, 354 (Qty: 2), 364 (Qty: 2), 374, 384 (Qty: 2), 424 (Qty: 2), 434, 444 (Qty: 2), 275 s/N 46663-Up, B414 Diesel 31375-Up, B414 Gas 4361-Up, 276, 354


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## pYLON1357 (Dec 2, 2016)

Just a comment here, I had to laugh when reading this, because I have the same thing with my B414. Wont stop worth a damn. I have learned to just not use the bloody brakes. LOL. Put the tractor in neutral and stand on the brakes, I will slow down. The hand brake though does work when I am parked so I figure I may be hoping for too much from the brake system. 

I had taken it apart shortly after getting this tractor last October, and found everything to be free and working correctly. (at least it appears so).


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The actuators are self energizing, and will stand the tractor nearly on its nose if they are properly working and the lining discs are thick enough and not greasy.

The tractor does have to be moving for the foot brakes to actuate and apply enough pressure to the discs to stop the tractor.


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## pYLON1357 (Dec 2, 2016)

RC Wells said:


> The actuators are self energizing, and will stand the tractor nearly on its nose if they are properly working and the lining discs are thick enough and not greasy.
> 
> The tractor does have to be moving for the foot brakes to actuate and apply enough pressure to the discs to stop the tractor.


Ah great, so I do definatly have a problem them. LOL I was hoping they were like the brakes on the old Chevy Chevette, sort of there but not needed.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

Yep, it has to be the linings for me because I have nearly no brakes even when the actuators are at full travel. Hopefully ill be able to pick up a parts tractor I found on Craigslist and it will have better brakes than mine. New discs are kind of expensive for a b250 from what I've found. 

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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

After a few years of use the drums and frame backing plates get worn, one remedy is to use larger balls in the ramps and or machine the drum down to reduce the clearance.
Some times the adjusters will have the actuator links pulled out most of the way with the brakes released, when the clearances are correct the links will not be pulled very much, the best mechanical advantage is the first quarter of movement on those links.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

Hmmmm that's an interesting idea, I happen to have easy access to ball bearings from a turbine engine that just might work. Thank you good sir, I'll give that a try. 

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