# Ford 420 help



## Desertrat011 (Oct 16, 2013)

I have looked all over and can not find these numbers anywhere.Was told it was a 1978 Industrial tractor.
I double check the numbers many times,they are very clear: 
KD211F 
8H01B(could be an 8 but looks to be a B)
KC579639*(yes it is an Asterix)

I just got it home and water is pouring out between motor and trans behind starter(freeze plug?). Need to find manuals and repair it. Any help would be appreciated.Thanks


----------



## Ed_F (Jun 18, 2013)

Model No. KD211F translates as follows:
KD2 - Model 420 Industrial (1976-78)
1 - Diesel Engine
1 - No PTO
F - 4x4 Torque Converter transmission, auto reversing

Manufacture Code 8H01B translates as follows:
8 - 1978
H01 - August 1st.
B - Day shift

Serial Number KC579639 translates as follows:
K - ???? Haven't got a clue, but it has meaning, maybe a specific Mfg. Plant in the USA
C - Made in USA
Serial No. 578639 is consistent with August 1978 manufacture date.

There is a drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing just behind the engine that has a cotter pin sticking out of it to keep the drain hole from getting plugged by mud. Water from a freeze plug leak should be coming out of this drain hole. Wiggle the cotter pin around to ensure that it is open. Maybe run a wire up alongside the cotter pin to open the drain.

It may be an accumulation of water from sitting outside in the rain with a plugged drain hole. Fill the radiator and determine that you indeed have a leak out the rear of the engine. Requires a split of the tractor between the engine and transmission to replace the freeze plug. 

There may be another way to fix, let me check.


----------



## Desertrat011 (Oct 16, 2013)

Thanks for the info couldn't have found it . I did check by filling the radiator,just came out almost as fast. I will check the cotter pin tomorrow.


----------



## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

Does your tractor have loader/backhoe attachments? 

If it has a loader, you are going to have to remove it to do a split. If you have a strong overhead beam (or a tree limb), drive the tractor under it and use a come-along to lift the back of the loader off (with bucket on ground) for ease of storage and re-installation. Then you have to remove the loader frame, which is heavy. You are going to need some help. 

To split the tractor, you should have a smooth hard surface to work on, because you have to roll one half of the tractor away from the other. And back together and align it all up to reassemble. You definitely need a shop/service manual for guidance. An I&T shop manual will probably suffice. Typically about $35, if you can find one. A tractor supply store may be able to get one for you. Ebay may have something on sale.


----------



## Desertrat011 (Oct 16, 2013)

Thanks for all the help and advice. I just bought a Ford 3000 Industrial 1969 from my neighbor
LOL it needs more work but couldn't pass the the deal of 200 bucks.


----------



## johnnybee (Mar 18, 2014)

i have a 1978 ford 420 tractor just had fuel injection pump rebuilt and put back on but it wont run maybe my timing is off on pump or ? any advice out there thanks [email protected]


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Johnnybee,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

When you removed the pump, did you use the access cover (item #38 in attached "cylinder block, head, and related parts" diagram) to detach the drive gear from the pump? The drive gear should be contained within the timing gear cover so that it does not jump a tooth, but if you got rough with it, I think it may be possible to jump a tooth.  Did you get rough with it trying to pull the pump? 

Have you bled the system? Are you getting fuel to the injectors? Are you getting white smoke out of the exhaust?

I assume that you have a CAV pump. Have you set the external timing marks to "0" degrees?


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Diesel Bleeding/Purging Procedure

This is a procedure originally posted by *Jerry/MT *. I’ve added a few things, but it’s the best detailed bleeding procedure that I’ve seen.

My tractor can be a PITA to get started if I run it out of fuel, or if the filter gets plugged. 

How long has it been since your fuel filter was changed?? Might be a good time to change it.
____________________________________________________________________________

Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen. 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

Your pump may have a bleeder screw. If so, open that until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. Otherwise loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittngs in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.


----------



## ljimcross (Feb 28, 2015)

*Ford industrial 420 repair*

Hi, My name is Jim. I'm from western lower peninsula Michigan. I'm looking at buying a Ford 420 Industrial tractor for $4000. The seller tells me that it is in great shape except that the 3 point hitch goes up VERY slow. He thought it might need a new pump. He says it is located under the seat can be replaced. I'm not much of a mechanic. I was hoping that someone could tell me if that is the likely issue with the slow 3 pt. hitch, and roughly how much it might cost to have a tractor mechanic fix it. Thanks for any help you can give me.
Jim


----------

