# Ford 1700 Hydraulic problems



## wonl2 (Sep 14, 2014)

Hello Forum Members, I bought a Ford 1700 tractor with 550 hours on the meter. It has been sitting for around 10 years per sellers family. The engine started up fairly easy and runs great. The problem I have is that the hydraulics work maybe for the first 5 minutes then stops. The front end loader and 3 point stops working. I still can drive it though. I drained the hydraulic fluid and cleaned the screen. The oil was a "milky white" and the screen needed to be cleaned. New oil was placed into the reservoir and the hydraulic system seemed to work great. My excitement came crashing down about tem minutes later when the same problem came back. I bought a 5000 psi gauge and installed it in the port that's next to the knob that controls the 3pt speed. There was no pressure and only a very small amount of fluid trickled out of the hole when the plug was removed (even with the engine running). I thought that the screen was dirty from all the years of sitting so I drained the fluid and cleaned the screen again. The screen was a little dirty and the fluid was still slightly milky. New oil was added to proper capacity. Now the hydraulics don't even work at all when the tractor is started. Sorry for the long story but I wanted all details described. Thanks for helping!


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## Dad2FourWI (Mar 25, 2015)

I can't remember, but does the 1700 have a hyd filter or just the screen?

My manual is out in the barn right now, but as per Ford specs, the hyd fluid has to be "special" as it is for the transmission, power steering, and hydraulics...

It is like Ford 134 Trans/Hyd oil (or was that 134C)???

When you refilled, did you add the amount from the capacity specs or did you fill until "full"? You might need to keep topping it off until all the air is out of the system...

Just some ideas.... 

Keep us posted as to your progress!

-Dad2FourWI


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello wonl2,

Greetings from the Ford/New Holland tractor forum.

First thing - Get an operator's manual for your tractor. The reason I mention this is that I learned today that your injection pump requires routine oil changes with motor oil. I didn't know that - an operator's manual ($30) should make you aware of that and other maintenance details. You can get this manual on the internet - ebay usually has a good selection.

You should also get a service/shop manual for your tractor. An I&T shop manual (+/-$30) should be sufficient, but you can also get a complete service manual on CD on ebay for $10. 

Any tractor that has sat idle for 10 years is likely to have issues with internal rust and seal degradation.. In your case, I expect that your suction O-rings have degraded and are allowing air entry into the hydraulic system. See attached diagram. I would replace all the suction O-rings (4 ea. #12 & 1 ea. #8). 

P/N #12 = SBA052400300
P/N #8 = SBA052100210

Your pump does not have a test port like the older model Fords, so you will have to open a high pressure connection for priming. To prime your hydraulic pump after changing the above O-rings, remove banjo bolt #22 (be prepared for a mess) and crank the engine, with the kill rod out so it won't start , till the pump emits fluid. If no success, apply minor air pressure (10-15psi max) to the reservoir at the filler port, and repeat cranking. Not too much air pressure - you can blow seals internally.

Good Luck, and let us know how it goes.


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## richlandrick (Sep 19, 2016)

The OP described the problem I am experiencing very well. 10 minutes worth of so-so hydralic lift followed by less and less lift power until it doesn't work. After everything cooled the same symptoms repeat.

After doing my homework reading past posts and answers, and obtaining a service manual, I cleaned the hydraulic fluid strainer and changed the hydraulic fluid.

Questions: 

The hydraulic pump and piping pdf above will not open for me. Where do the o-rings go? I noticed no O-rings at the banjo fittings. Is that normal?

Thanks in advance for being here and helping.

Regarding priming: Might it be accomplished by pointing the front of the tractor downhill sufficient to have the pump below the transmission fluid level?


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

richlandrick, welcome to the tractor forum.

See attached parts diagram.


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## richlandrick (Sep 19, 2016)

Thanks,

What is the best way to prime a 1700's hydraulic system. I tried low pressure air, but was not successful.


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## richlandrick (Sep 19, 2016)

Nevermind,

I pointed the tractor down hill (a steep hill) then opened the suction and and High pressure sides of the pump. Fluid flowed out so I'm guessing it's primed. However, although new, there were bubbles in the fluid. Now I'm of to change the suction filter gasket and will report back.


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## richlandrick (Sep 19, 2016)

Happy ending.

The previous owner had tried to substitute RTV silicone rubber for a fiter to transmission case gasket. Removing the RTV and installing a real gasket fixed my air in-leakage problem and now my hydraulics work. 

Pointing the tractor down a steep hill and loosening the suction tube at the pump primed the system.

All is well now.


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