# Ford 3000 + Plow



## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

I’m a complete novice here. Just bought my first tractor, a 1965 Ford 3000. I’d never driven or operated a tractor prior to purchase. I bought a plow, and see that the pins to attach it to the tractor are too big, which I can fix. I’m missing some kind of linkage to attach the top part of the plow to the tractor. I’m curious if it’s supposed to have a double acting hydraulic cylinder. I have quick release connects that would work a double acting cylinder back there. I don’t know how to make the rear attachment go up and down otherwise. I’ve fiddled with all the levers and buttons haha. I’ll attach some pictures. The red straight line is where I think a hydraulic cylinder would go. The circles are the arms I can’t make go up and down. I promise this wasn’t intended to be phallic in nature.


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## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

I can’t figure out what the blue lever below the two rusty ones in picture 2 is either.


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## Hightech1953 (Dec 30, 2018)

Vantara187 said:


> I can’t figure out what the blue lever below the two rusty ones in picture 2 is either.


That is the draft control.


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## Hightech1953 (Dec 30, 2018)

Vantara187 said:


> I’m a complete novice here. Just bought my first tractor, a 1965 Ford 3000. I’d never driven or operated a tractor prior to purchase. I bought a plow, and see that the pins to attach it to the tractor are too big, which I can fix. I’m missing some kind of linkage to attach the top part of the plow to the tractor. I’m curious if it’s supposed to have a double acting hydraulic cylinder. I have quick release connects that would work a double acting cylinder back there. I don’t know how to make the rear attachment go up and down otherwise. I’ve fiddled with all the levers and buttons haha. I’ll attach some pictures. The red straight line is where I think a hydraulic cylinder would go. The circles are the arms I can’t make go up and down. I promise this wasn’t intended to be phallic in nature.


You are missing the adjustable top link.


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## Hightech1953 (Dec 30, 2018)

That is a model 2000


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## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

Hightech1953 said:


> That is a model 2000


You know, I checked the model number and serial numbers. It comes up as a 2000, but looks like a 3000 and has a 3000 serial. Thanks for the input guys, it’s much appreciated.


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## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

I’ve got this Frankenstein ‘s monster type of loader, which is a different issue. It looks like a 3000 otherwise though (based solely on pictures I’ve found online). I found some videos showing the hemisphere shaped lever on the right side of the seat operating the 3 pt hitch sides. I fiddled with that quite a bit and never got anything to move.


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## Hightech1953 (Dec 30, 2018)

Vantara187 said:


> You know, I checked the model number and serial numbers. It comes up as a 2000, but looks like a 3000 and has a 3000 serial. Thanks for the input guys, it’s much appreciated.


The reason I say it is a 2000 is the draft control spring is exposed . On a 3000 it ihas a cover over it and can't be seen. It is the large spring located behind the seat. If the lift arms are not moving when you move the lever on the right side of the seat it sounds like the valve selector is in the wrong position.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hightech1953 said:


> The reason I say it is a 2000 is the draft control spring is exposed . On a 3000 it ihas a cover over it and can't be seen. It is the large spring located behind the seat. If the lift arms are not moving when you move the lever on the right side of the seat it sounds like the valve selector is in the wrong position.


Hitech,
You are correct; it is a 2000.
In addition to exposed draft spring it has no flow control valve.
More telling though is the model #
His reads 21022A
2 = 2000
10= Ag/all purpose
2=Gasser
2=540 rpm transmission pto
A=4 speed
If the 3 point lift is not working it is likely because the valve under the seat is being used as a power beyond valve. Try moving the handles to the center detent and see if that works.
You may not be able to get the 3 point working with out doing some simple replumbing.
You need to get a couple of manuals for your tractor.
First, find an original or reprint of the owners manual on ebay or amazon or yesterdaystractors.com. It is chock full of useful info on your tractor.
Do Not buy one from jensales.
They are crappy photocopy jobs.
Second, buy an I&T FO-31 manual for all aspects of diagnosis and repair on your tractor.


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## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

Thank you guys for your sage wisdom. I just ordered an operators manual and repair manual from eBay. The two brass colored levers under the seat feel like they operate the hydraulic hoses that go back to the 3pt hitch area. When I got the tractor, those levers were bungee corded back as far as they could go. I’ll try pushing them forward and operating the 3pt lift arms with the hemisphere lever


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## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

Hightech1953 said:


> That is a model 2000


You know, I checked the model number and serial numbers. It comes up as a 2000, but looks like a 3000 and has a 3000 serial.


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## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

Pushing those brass levers into what seemed like a relaxed state turned off the loader valves, and turned on the 3 point control. You know that feeling when you do something smart on accident? I was all grins. Headed out to see if I can get a local top linkage to hook up the plow. Also, the previous owner said he ran non ethanol gas, just wondering your opinions on that.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Vantara187 said:


> You know, I checked the model number and serial numbers. It comes up as a 2000, but looks like a 3000 and has a 3000 serial.


The model is not designated by the serial # but by the model #.
21022A as I explained above designates it as a 2000.
Also, as above, no flow control valve and exposed draft spring indicate it is a 2000 and looking at your rear end photo again you have round rear axle housings which tell us it us an early 2000.
All 3000s and late 2000s had square axle housings.
And... You have a non adjustable lift link on the left side of your 3 point. A 3000 always had an adjustable link there and 2000s never did.
Kinda esoteric stuff I suppose but all are reliable clues as to what you have.
Visually a 2000 and 3000 look identical. They are the same length, height, wheel base and almost the same weight.
A 2000 used 12.4x28 rear tires and 3000 used 13.6x28s.
99% of the other parts on them are the same.
Your gas engine is the exact same bore and stroke as a 3000 gasser and is 158 cubic inches.
3000 has a small bump in horsepower 37 vs 33 on yours which was accomplished by governing the engine about 150 rpms higher and with different jetting in the carb.
Photos below show the flow control valve on the right side, adjustable left side lift link and square axle housing and covered draft spring on a 3000.


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## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

Not sure why I got a double post 12 hours later. I believed you when you said it was a 2000.

I plowed about an acre last night, using a 2 bottom plow. I couldn’t quite get the angle right for the back plow, which caused the earth to not completely flip. And because of that, every time I came to an unflipped spot, the tractor became unhappy and I’d have to raise the plow a bit to get through. I think if I remove the rear plow, it’ll work less hard, and completely flip the dirt so I can stay in the furrow nicely. At least until I familiarize myself with the tractor and implements better.


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## Hightech1953 (Dec 30, 2018)

Vantara187 said:


> Not sure why I got a double post 12 hours later. I believed you when you said it was a 2000.
> 
> I plowed about an acre last night, using a 2 bottom plow. I couldn’t quite get the angle right for the back plow, which caused the earth to not completely flip. And because of that, every time I came to an unflipped spot, the tractor became unhappy and I’d have to raise the plow a bit to get through. I think if I remove the rear plow, it’ll work less hard, and completely flip the dirt so I can stay in the furrow nicely. At least until I familiarize myself with the tractor and implements better.


Set the draft control to the on position


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## jmdrmct (May 14, 2019)

One of my Fords has the same hydraulic setup with two of the remote hoses coming from the control valve to operating the bucket. If I want to use the hydraulics on a rear implement I’m assuming I need to have a second control valve with separate hydraulic levers from the ones on the bucket. Is this the case?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

jmdrmct said:


> One of my Fords has the same hydraulic setup with two of the remote hoses coming from the control valve to operating the bucket. If I want to use the hydraulics on a rear implement I’m assuming I need to have a second control valve with separate hydraulic levers from the ones on the bucket. Is this the case?


Need a little more info.
Does the loader have its own set of handles?
If loader has its own valves there is probably a detent that holds the remote handle (under the seat) back so your loader works.
You should be able to raise the loader then push the remote handle to the center position.
Loader will stay up and 3 point work.
Try that and let us know.


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## Vantara187 (Jun 21, 2019)

Ultradog said:


> Need a little more info.
> Does the loader have its own set of handles?
> If loader has its own valves there is probably a detent that holds the remote handle (under the seat) back so your loader works.
> You should be able to raise the loader then push the remote handle to the center position.
> ...


That is exactly how mine works Ultradog


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## belchermw (Apr 4, 2017)

Hightech1953 said:


> Set the draft control to the on position


I’m a newbie n have similar ford. I watched this YouTube video n it got me started on how to set depth of plow. I’m sure someone on this site can give some good advice too.
Title is:
Setting up an 8n 9n tractor with a 2 bottom plow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum


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## cdunn (Jun 4, 2015)

You need to lengthen the top link you put on to make the rear plow engage the ground.


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