# Jubilee starter relay question.



## walleyefever35 (Jun 21, 2015)

Ok i have a ford jubilee.i push button and get a click click click.so figured its the relay.bench tested starter...it spins....mind u its a 3 terminal relay.so i got a new 3 terminal relay.i compared the two.the old relay has the "i" small terminal.the new relay has the "s" small terminal.put new relay on...does nothing.put old relay back on clicks when i push button.i cant find a relay same as old one with the "i" terminal.can i get a 4 terminal relay and use it...if so where should i wire the "s" terminal to?thanks for any help.the pic is old terminal.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello walleyefever35,

A clicking relay most likely indicates a high resistance connection somewhere in your starter circuitry, or a weak battery. Clean your battery terminal connections and ground connections to bare metal. Put some grease on them to preserve the connections. 

Your pushbutton starter switch completes a ground circuit for the relay when you push it. It may be corroded or worn to the point that it makes an inadequate ground circuit. To check this, pull the wire off the pushbutton and touch it to a clean metal ground (using the old relay). If it cranks, replace the pushbutton starter switch. If it doesn't crank, ground the relay terminal where the starter pushbutton attaches. If it still doesn't crank, then replace the relay. 

Hope this makes sense to you. Post back results and we'll go from there.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

There's something wrong with this picture. The relay in the photo doesn't look like it belongs on your tractor at all. TYPICALLY the relay used on the older Fords is a four terminal, isolated type solenoid. The two smaller terminals connect to the coil. One gets power, the other is connected to ground. Neither terminal is marked. In your case the power is supplied by the key switch when turned to the on position. The other terminal is connected to the starter switch, which supplies the ground when pushed down with the trans in neutral. 
There are other types of relays out there. Those with the small terminals marked S and I usually are self grounding, and are energized when power is supplied to the S terminal. The I terminal then becomes live to supply battery voltage directly to the ignition circuit while cranking. 
The unit in the photo makes no sense to me for this application, but with no knowledge of the current circuits involved, who knows? Many tractors have had things altered in many ways over the years. If it clicks, but fails to crank the starter, it's obviously got problems. Either the battery post is not getting battery voltage, or the internal contacts are not connecting the battery cable to the starter cable.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

See attached picture regarding 4 terminal relay connections. You would have to run a power wire from the key switch "on" position to "i" terminal on the relay and use the starter pushbutton to provide the ground for cranking. 

I surmise that the relay in your picture gets battery power internally from the battery connection.


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## walleyefever35 (Jun 21, 2015)

BigT said:


> Hello walleyefever35,
> 
> A clicking relay most likely indicates a high resistance connection somewhere in your starter circuitry, or a weak battery. Clean your battery terminal connections and ground connections to bare metal. Put some grease on them to preserve the connections.
> 
> ...


Ill try all.as for relay.thats the one it came with when i baught it .just cranking one day then it did the ckicking ever since.


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## walleyefever35 (Jun 21, 2015)

BigT said:


> See attached picture regarding 4 terminal relay connections. You would have to run a power wire from the key switch "on" position to "i" terminal on the relay and use the starter pushbutton to provide the ground for cranking.
> 
> I surmise that the relay in your picture gets battery power internally from the battery connection.


So if i got a 4 terminal relay i could hook up like pic and it work?battery fully charged.its a positive ground system if i didnt mention this.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

That diagram will work with an isolated type relay, which is what I suggest you purchase and install. Not with one with the S and I marked terminals. I don't believe the diagram posted above is correct in that regard. Try it and see.


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## walleyefever35 (Jun 21, 2015)

Fedup said:


> That diagram will work with an isolated type relay, which is what I suggest you purchase and install. Not with one with the S and I marked terminals. I don't believe the diagram posted above is correct in that regard. Try it and see.


Where can i find one of these isolated type relays?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

You can find one at any parts house. Positive or negative ground is not an issue. Just ask for a 4 terminal unit, NOT self grounding, in whatever voltage your tractor may be.


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## walleyefever35 (Jun 21, 2015)

Fedup said:


> You can find one at any parts house. Positive or negative ground is not an issue. Just ask for a 4 terminal unit, NOT self grounding, in whatever voltage your tractor may be.


Ok...got relay.now wich key wire should i hook up too solenoid.both r hot when key is on...turn key off and only one is hot.the one that aint hot when key is off goes to coil.


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## walleyefever35 (Jun 21, 2015)

Blue circle is key swicth.one wire from key goes to coil the other wire hooks into where green circle is.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I would use the wire that's "hot" with the key ON. That way there's less chance of things going haywire while no one is around. That means the key switch must be on before the starting circuit will operate.


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## Joe338696a (Apr 4, 2010)

*solenoid*

Charge your battery, make sure all connections are clean and tight and ground that solenoid, The electro magnet in the solenoid needs a complete circuit to operate as well as required voltage if your new part is not defective, and these conditions are met then your solenoid will work. hope this helps


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## Jaz (Nov 2, 2011)

Please specify if you have a 6 or 12V system.

The 2nd photo seems to be a voltage regulator, not a solenoid relay.

Some suppliers sell you a Ford 311006 12V relay ''equivalent'' and when you get the part you realize that it has a grounded-to-the-bracket s or i terminal, and is therefore not the required ''isolated coil / bracket model for pre 1965 Ford tractors

I have always wondered. If we put nylon washers to isolate the grounded bracket from the tractor frame, would the above ''wrong'', grounded coil, relay work with a transmission mounted switch ? I really think it will.


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