# case 255 will not start



## pipeliner542 (May 3, 2015)

So I got a case 255 it has the mitsubishi k3e motor I was told it has been sitting two years outside. I cleaned tank replaced hoses from tank to fuel filter,fuel filter,hose to inj. Pump. Fuel flows easily as soon as petcock is opened. I have fuel to pump. I have the lines all removed from injectors at the head. New battery installed with charger hooked up. No fuel coming through lines from inj
Pump to injectors. after.lots.of cranking at 10-15 second Intervals. still no Fuel. 
.I disconnected glow plugs (none working anyway) remove air cleaner started Cranking gave it a.shot of ether In intake hose. Nothing. Didn't even try to pop or start. A few puffs of black smoke but never tried to.start. I don't have.a.compression tester but.covering intake hose it.will suck your hand to it pretty hard. (Ill Get a tester to get numbers.) Is there a way to bleed pump? tank had some fuel in it but not much when I got it. So I don't know if it was ran out of fuel. Has an electric fuel cutoff that does nothing with.key on or off it has a.rubber cap on it still intact. That I can push in easily. If i jump it with 12 volts it works. Does it need to be in or out to start and run? I don't want to put a lot of money in this machine. If it is a bad pump what is the cost of a rebuild on this unit?. Just scratching head I keep thinking bad pump or its got air in it.


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## pipeliner542 (May 3, 2015)

Maybe this should be posted in the repair Section?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy pipeliner542,

Welcome to the tractor forum.

If that diesel won't even pop on ether, you have low compression. 

Some of these Japanese diesels are hard starters and require glow plugs every time. Hot or cold. I would get the glow plugs working. 

I have a Kubota with a fuel cutoff solenoid. On my Kubota, the cutoff solenoid has to be "out" to start & run. "In" to kill. When you energized it with 12V, it should stroke "in"....Is this correct?? Mine has a "black box" computer that controls the solenoid to "kill" the engine. When I turn the key off, the computer energizes the solenoid for 8-10 seconds....long enough to kill the engine.

I would try tow starting it. Leave the injection line connections cracked open till you get fuel to the injectors. Then tighten them up and it should start.

Some of these injection pumps require an oil change when you change the engine oil. Neither of my injection pumps require an oil change. You need to check this point with a CaseIH dealership.

It would be good to get an owner's manual for your tractor. Also an I&T shop manual.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Attached is a bleeding procedure for a Ford tractor. Thought this might help you to some degree.
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Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen. 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

Your pump may have a bleeder screw. If so, open that until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. Otherwise loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittngs in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.


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## pipeliner542 (May 3, 2015)

It does go in when 12v applied. I'll try the tow start thing see if it helps. I was reading about the glow plugs even when warm to I just hate to start to put a lot of money in it. Once I get started it will be one expensive machine.. I even tried using a mity vac hooked to injector lines to pull fuel through and no luck. Been looking for a factory service manual.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

The injection pump fuel cut off valve may stuck closed internally. Figure $500-$600 to rebuild the injection pump.


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## pipeliner542 (May 3, 2015)

Compression from fan back 550 525 550 

Tried a gas fume rag around intake and it sounded like it might start. Rpms came up a little


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## pipeliner542 (May 3, 2015)

Can I just remove the solenoid to try to free it up I see there is a big locknut and it spins out. Does it need to be in to run?


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Based upon my Kubota, the solenoid has to be "out" to run. The "IN" position is the kill position. But that's a Kubota, not a Case. 

I would remove the solenoid and work the shaft to try to free it up (if it is indeed stuck internally).

Your compression is very good. Don't use ether any more. It will knock like hell if it starts on ether. It may be that you need the glow plugs to start it???

Remember, some Japanese diesels are hard to start...need glow plugs.


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## pipeliner542 (May 3, 2015)

Gonna get glow plugs and see what happens. I have to figure out why i dont have 12v at glow plug wire when on heat. time to get away from it till parts arrive none in Stock locally


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