# Gravely 5665 Commercial Questions



## mtumilspec

I just purchased a Gravely 5665 Professional SN 00519373 and the hour meter shows 1443.9 hours. I have downloaded a lot of manuals but still have many questions that I can not find answers to in the various manuals.

The tractor starts right up and the engine runs fine with no smoke up to full speed. It and goes into all gears and the PTO engages. I am fairly certain that the tractor was a flooded in NYC during huricane Sandy. I was told that It only ran with a plow on the front and never turned powered attachements. When I pulled the quick hitch there was no wear on the dogs and the slip clutch looks new so this might be correct. When I checked the engine oil dipstick the oil looked good and the dipstick was clean. I drained and filled with new SAE 30 as the Kohler K301S manual states. When I pulled the transmission dipstick the oil was cloudy. In addition the dipstick was pitted but did not have any rust. I could not find any drain port for the transmission and the manuals do not say anything either. Is there a case bolt that can be removed and acts as a drain plug? What would the best section to remove to flush the transmission out? There is sludge in the bottom. I would like to get as much emulsified oil and sludge out as I can. According to the manual the transmission is to have 10W-30 engine oil is this correct? I sucked 5 quarts out with my evacuator and put new 10W-30 in. The fill cap is crap and does not fit that tight. Does anyone have a better cap to use? I know that it has to vent for when the trans gets hot. The battery that was installed was a small lawn and garden 200 CC U1 battery. This is not the correct battery but I can not find what the proper size is in any documentation. Does anyone know the proper battery size? The battery cables are not originals and have just holes. The negative is connected to a bolt that runs through the left side handle and battery box. Is this the correct location or did the battery ground run all the way back to the engine block?

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks.


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## Richard-tx

Manuals are available at gravelymanuals.com

The battery spec is in the operator's manual. It is on the last page at http://gravelymanuals.com/pdf/5000_Series_Op_Man_0881.pdf



There is a transmission drain plug and it is the bottom axle housing bolt on the left side.

The fill cap is what it is. There is no pressure so it works just fine. I know it seems hokey but it doesn't get lost or leak.

There are a few people out there that don't know that the transmission oil should be changed every 12-18 months. 24 months at the outside. Gravely does not mention it either.

If the trans oil contamination is severe enough, I would pull the left side axle housing. That is the easier of the two to pull.

I use Castrol 20w50 in my tractors and have for many years. I have yet to have a lubrication or wear issue. Use what you feel comfortable with.

The correct battery ground location is indeed where it is currently located on your tractor. There is no point in running the ground to the block. The IR losses of the cable would be greated than the IR losses of the frame and transmission.

I hope that answers all the questions you posed.


Richard - who has two 5665 tractors, a Pro8 and a Pro16 as well as an assortment of 4 wheel Gravely tractors.


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## mtumilspec

Thanks Richard. I did not have that manual.

For the fill port I am using a expandable plumbing plug with a small hole drilled to run 1/16" plastic pressure gauge tubing up to the level of the fuel tank.

I could not find a group 17 battery. So I am using a U1L with 300 CCA. I stayed with the smaller case size and got a plastic battery box for it. This way if there are any leaks the acid will not eat the metal of the mower.

I will run the 10W30 for a little longer and see if I can loosen up the sludge and then will drain and refill again. You suggest using automotive oil and no gear oil correct?

I have just noticed that when I jack the tractor up I have some play with the axles. According to the parts manual call-out #23 is PN 32050 which is a ball bearing. Do these go bad with heavy plowing? Or is some play OK.

Again, thanks for the help.


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## Richard-tx

Do not ue gear oil in the transmission. It will screw up the clutches. Use what Gravely recommends.

Fill port for what? Flushing out the trans? Seems a bit overkill to me. I use a flex funnel to fill or add oil to the trans.

A little endplay is normal on the axles.

The U1l batteries usually don't last more than a year. The full size automotive batteries last at least 5 years.


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## mtumilspec

Well I was moving the tractor around to get the transmission warm to try to loosen up some of the sludge and the left axle seal started leakeing really bad. I checked the oil level and it was right at the top mark. So I decided to pull the left side. I drained the transmission from the bottom bolt in the left axle housing. I then pulled the entire housing. The spacer PN22501 is siezed on the shaft. It should pull right off like spacer PN 22512, correct? How do you disassemble the axle shaft? I see the the parts manual a snap ring PN22497 but it is between the oil seal and the ball bearing. Do you need to press the axle out with a hydraulic press? If so do you press the shaft in the direction of the oil seal or in the direction of the ball bearing? I have a lot of play in the saft the end moves 0.45" so my guess is that the bearing was shot and caused the oil seal to go bad.


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## mtumilspec

Please see the attached photos.
Photo #1 shows the spacer siezed on the axle shaft.
Photo #2 and #3 show how much play is in the axle shaft.
Photo #4 shows the battery box and new transmission fill plug with vent line.
Photo #5 shows a close-up of the transmission plug. I do not like the original and am worried that dirt can get in when I am mowing/tilling and water can get in when I am sweeping snow.


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## Richard-tx

The spacer is suppose to just slide on. Once it is off the axle should just slide out. I would apply some heat to the spacer. Red hot should do it.

Very little on the Gravely requires a press. As a matter of fact I don't own a press and have never wished I had one. I have rebuilt a few of the 5000 series and a few older model L tractors. I almost every case where someone has used a press on a Gravely part, they broke something.

The bearing is a 1"x2"x9/16" bearing and should just slide out of the housing and slide off the axle. The plate that you took off is what keeps the bearing from moving in the housing. The wheel hub, spacer(s) and axle nut keep the axle from spinning in the bearing. I have replaced bearings without removing the axle housing from the tractor. 

The IPL shows a single seal. Depending on the axle housing, there may be room for two seals.

The movement you have is pretty normal even with a new bearing. It may be excessive but you should replace the bearing anyway.

The fill plug is a bit overkill. Gravely used the same fill plug on all their tractors after the model L including the Pro series. In all the nearly 40 years of using Gravely two wheel tractors, I have never had an issue with dirt, snow, or anything else for the matter getting into the transmission. You might want to add a pull ring to your fill plug so that adding trans oil is a tool-less operation.

http://gravelymanuals.com/pdf/5000_Series_IPL_19800600.pdf

BTW the fuel bowl is not stock but it isn't a bad idea.

How much crud is in the sump of the transmission?


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## Richard-tx

Do you have split tire rims or tubeless rims?


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## Richard-tx

The bearing is a 1641 double sealed. Double sealed is usually indicated with a -2RS suffix .

It should cost about $5 or so depending on where you buy it. Gravely likely wants about $15-$20 or so for it. Accurate Bearing is where I get bearings. The last ones I bought from them cost me about $4.00 each.

http://www.accuratebearing.com/

Call and ask for Tony. Tell him that Rich in Texas says "Hi!" They can mail that bearing to you for a couple of bucks or less. Just ask Tony to ship it first class mail.


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## mtumilspec

Richard,

There was a lot of sludge in the very bottom of the transmission and inside the left axle housing. The safety wires on the differential are rusted and the transmission dip stick is pitted. I hope that I do not have a ticking time bomb. The one bearing that I can see looks good and the bearing race in the left axle housing is perfect very smooth no wear. 

I have split rims. The right side outer spacer is also siezed on the shaft. There is a lot of wear in the wheel hub splines and the wheel assembly. I am sure wheel hubs in good condition are very expensive. I have not been able to find any on ebay or craigslist.

I am on the road so I can not work on it right now. I think that I am going to need the bearings, seals, spacers, and hubs to make this right. What are realistic prices for these items?


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## Richard-tx

Sludge is almsot normal but it depends on how much. Since the tapered roller bearings are good then there are no worries.

The hub splines never fit tight when new. I recommend changing to the 4 bolt hubs. That also means changing to tubeless rims I also recommend pressing in trailer studs in the 4 bolt hubs. I changed all of my 2 wheel tractors to tubeless.

The hubs will be the most expensive item. I bought all my hubs from Ebay.

Now if the wrong time of year to be looking for used parts on Ebay.

Richards L&G has used parts. (gravelyparts.com) Give them a call and talk to Jamie.

Jamie will likely give you the spacers for free with the purchase of a set of hubs. The ball bearings in the axle should run about $10 each. Seals a few bucks.


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## mtumilspec

There was about 1/2 inch in the bottom of the main housing and 1/4 inch of sludge in the bottom of the left axle housing. I pulled out as much as I could by hand and then put it back together. I poured in 3 quarts of clean diesel fuel and am letting it sit for a week or so to break up the remaining sludge.

I still do not understand what the snap ring in the parts manual does. From what I can tell the snap ring is mounted between the bearing and the seal. Does this snap ring prevent the bearing from going inside the housing? I have heated the spacer and sprayed multiple times with PB blaster but it will not move. I might have to cut it off. I have a feeling the bearing will be siezed in the housing as well.


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## Richard-tx

If all you have is the propane torch, then that likely won't do what you need. You likely need to heat that spacer up red hot all the way around. Cutting it off using a Dremel with a cut-off disc or similar tool is certainly an option.

The snap ring is on there so that the axle does not slide out.

In my shop, PB Blaster is a waste of time and money. I quit using all brands of penetrating oil and tossed it all a few years ago. It was replaced with acetylene torch.

Mineral spirits is about as good as it gets.


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