# cub cadet 5252E



## rober

i'm looking for a garden tractor with 3 pt & a pto to work my garden. there are 3 cub cadets for sale near me. a 5252E, a 7235, & a 7260. the little bit I found on the 5252E does not look good. the 7235 & 7260 sound better but are pricey. any input?


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## RC Wells

The 5252E is a bit light in the loafers for a garden tractor, has a problematic engine and transmission. That engine is right in the thick of Kohler's switch to Chinese manufacturing, and frequently fails. I have seen low hour units on their third engine. The hydrostats fail because owners do not run them at full throttle all the time. They also really like their gasoline.

The 7235 has a hydrostatic transmission that will make you quite friendly with your mechanic if you overwork it or fail to always run it at at least 85% of the engine's rpm. The 7260 with the partially synchronized manual is far superior unit for durability. Do not overlook the 7230, manual transmission version of the 7235, and very reliable.


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## rober

RC Wells said:


> The 5252E is a bit light in the loafers for a garden tractor, has a problematic engine and transmission. That engine is right in the thick of Kohler's switch to Chinese manufacturing, and frequently fails. I have seen low hour units on their third engine. The hydrostats fail because owners do not run them at full throttle all the time. They also really like their gasoline.
> 
> The 7235 has a hydrostatic transmission that will make you quite friendly with your mechanic if you overwork it or fail to always run it at at least 85% of the engine's rpm. The 7260 with the partially synchronized manual is far superior unit for durability. Do not overlook the 7230, manual transmission version of the 7235, and very reliable.


thanks for the input. as I continue my research I've concluded that the 5000 series tractors are to given a wide berth. i'll check out the 7260. there's also a couple of john deeres for sale. I've also heard not so great things about the red IH subcompacts. there's an IH lowboy for sale but it looks to be too big for my needs. i'd really like to find an Ingersoll 4020.


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## RC Wells

The Ingersoll is equipped with the Case (Colt developed) Hy-Drive, which has no ability to hold the tractor back on engine compression when going down hills - or simply said, it runs away. The transmission is a hydraulic motor driving a mechanical two speed rear axle assembly, and is tougher than nails. The controls are like all hydraulic valves, they will eventually need service and are beyond expensive.

There is a downside, the folks that are skilled in repairing or servicing the hydraulic controls, the pump, or the hydraulic motor on the transmission will be industrial hydraulic shops - the hourly rate will be over $200. Then the rear axle components are pretty much unavailable if something there ever does wear out or break, and you will be doing the mechanical work yourself unless you can find a 70 year old still working on the units.

Gas John Deere garden tractors in the 2000 and newer years are best left in a recycle yard unless you are very mechanically inclined. The older models are like gold for a reason. The diesels are decent.

Given what is out there in the heavy duty three point equipped garden tractor marketplace, I would seriously consider a new small Kubota because of dealer support and durability, and price.


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## Joelk

RC Wells said:


> The 5252E is a bit light in the loafers for a garden tractor, has a problematic engine and transmission. That engine is right in the thick of Kohler's switch to Chinese manufacturing, and frequently fails. I have seen low hour units on their third engine. The hydrostats fail because owners do not run them at full throttle all the time. They also really like their gasoline.


This is the first that I have heard of issues with the CH730 Kohler engines. Many have told me that they are "nearly bulletproof", but they may be people who are only familiar with older versions of that engine. I thought the Kohler Command Twins, in general, were considered to be very good.

Is there a way to tell if I have a CH730 that may be problematic. Is it after serial # XXXXXXX. I have one in my GT3200 at 300 Hrs and in my 5252E at 440 hours. Both seem to be doing great so far. What usually fails in the ones that have issues?

Why is it detrimental to the hydrostats to be run at less than full throttle. What damage does it cause? Should ALL Cub Cadet hydrostats only be run at full throttle?

I always run at full throttle when mowing, but I don't when using loader etc. I may reconsider that if it is detrimental.

Thanks for the info! Joel


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## rober

RC Wells said:


> The Ingersoll is equipped with the Case (Colt developed) Hy-Drive, which has no ability to hold the tractor back on engine compression when going down hills - or simply said, it runs away. The transmission is a hydraulic motor driving a mechanical two speed rear axle assembly, and is tougher than nails. The controls are like all hydraulic valves, they will eventually need service and are beyond expensive.
> 
> There is a downside, the folks that are skilled in repairing or servicing the hydraulic controls, the pump, or the hydraulic motor on the transmission will be industrial hydraulic shops - the hourly rate will be over $200. Then the rear axle components are pretty much unavailable if something there ever does wear out or break, and you will be doing the mechanical work yourself unless you can find a 70 year old still working on the units.
> 
> Gas John Deere garden tractors in the 2000 and newer years are best left in a recycle yard unless you are very mechanically inclined. The older models are like gold for a reason. The diesels are decent.
> 
> Given what is out there in the heavy duty three point equipped garden tractor marketplace, I would seriously consider a new small Kubota because of dealer support and durability, and price.


I've had a couple cases. there's a local guy who is really reasonable who makes hoses to match & a pretty reasonable hydraulic shop. I needed seals for a lift valve. the Ingersoll kit was $90.00. the local shop matched what I had for $12.00. don't get me wrong. since Eastman dropped these tractors I nknow it's just a matter of time before parts become rally scarce which is why i'm looking at ford, deere, a cadet tractors. i'm going to look at the 7260.


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## RC Wells

Joelk said:


> This is the first that I have heard of issues with the CH730 Kohler engines. Many have told me that they are "nearly bulletproof", but they may be people who are only familiar with older versions of that engine. I thought the Kohler Command Twins, in general, were considered to be very good.
> 
> Is there a way to tell if I have a CH730 that may be problematic. Is it after serial # XXXXXXX. I have one in my GT3200 at 300 Hrs and in my 5252E at 440 hours. Both seem to be doing great so far. What usually fails in the ones that have issues?
> 
> Why is it detrimental to the hydrostats to be run at less than full throttle. What damage does it cause? Should ALL Cub Cadet hydrostats only be run at full throttle?
> 
> I always run at full throttle when mowing, but I don't when using loader etc. I may reconsider that if it is detrimental.
> 
> Thanks for the info! Joel


The problem is piston failure, they develop a slight tick at idle when the piston first cracks. 
That turns into excessive oil consumption just before the piston crown fails and the piston scores the bore. Sometimes it first shows as randomly blowing blue smoke for a second, and that may occur time and again before engine failure. Lack of quality control, as inspection of the pistons clearly show thin skirt issues near the wrist pin.

Kohler is very good at sending some slick out to weasel out of the warranty too. No more Kohler engines for me.

All hydrostatic transmissions rely on hydraulic motors, and those motors are designed to operate in a very narrow rpm range so they have enough hydraulic pressure to both drive and lubricate the components. The older units with Hy-Drive are a slightly different animal, as they use a dedicated hydraulic pump and a single hydraulic motor to drive the manual two speed rear axle. However you still want the engine in the operating range on those to prevent drive motor damage.

All the newer Cub Cadets, except for those few built by Yanmar, use a conventional hydrostatic and the operators manual calls for full throttle operation of the gas units. The hydrostat Yanmar units are operated at the 540 PTO rpm setting, the gear versions can be operated at any rpm, same as any manufacture's tractor.


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## rober

I know about weasels. I had some paint that did not bond with the primer & peeled. this was new wood, primer, & paint. Sherwin Williams sent out a 'tech'. I felt like I was on a crime show. the guy kept trying to lead me into making statements that put me in the wrong. I'm an experienced carpenter & know how apply paint. they did give me a settlement.
I've gone thru my owners manual multiple times & cannot find any reference as to running my XT 1 at full throttle. I do not doubt what y'all are saying just that it would be nice if it was in the manual or that it would be mentioned when you buy a tractor.


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## RC Wells

Drop by the real deal lawn equipment dealer, not a big box store or Sears, for any hydrostatic tractor and have a discussion about operating hydrostats.


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## rober

RC Wells said:


> Drop by the real deal lawn equipment dealer, not a big box store or Sears, for any hydrostatic tractor and have a discussion about operating hydrostats.


I plan to do just that. And this was bought at a dealer not a big box store.


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