# How to Buy V-belts Cheaper by Not Using the OEM Part #



## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

The easiest way to come up with a replacement V-belt for your lawnmower is to go to the parts diagram and just simply look up the part #. It’s the easiest, but not necessarily the cheapest way to come up with a replacement belt. What you usually get from the diagram is their OEM part #. The OEM’s don’t actually make the belts they use. They buy them from the big boys that make belts by the million like Goodyear, Dayco, or Gates and have them put in a $.50 packaging sleeve with their logo and OEM part # on it. Replacement V-belts are a huge profit center for any OEM lawnmower shop. Just ask anybody that has bought a replacement belt using the John Deere OEM # (it’s the #1 replacement part on their mowers). If you use THEIR part #, you get to pay THEIR price for the privilege. If you want to save money on that next replacement V-belt, you need to understand the codes the V-belt OEM’s use to get the best price on a belt. NAPA, Autozone, and O’Reily’s all sell a quality belt you could use on your mower for much cheaper than the OEM #, you just need to give the kid behind the counter a part# he can reference. He may even be smart enough to use a belt gauge, but probably not…

What a belt gauge does is measure the width, length, and hugely important (to the part#) *SECTION IDENTIFIER* of the belt. It then converts those dimensions to the universal codes the OEM’s use to identify belts. There are two different systems used to *start* a universal belt # and they denote the section identifier of the belt They are as follows … Number followed by the letter "L" (3L, 4L, 5L), or simply a letter (A,B).

*Number + "L" Belts*
Example : 5L1470K
5L = 5/8” wide with 13/32" Depth -- The belt length is 147” at the *OUTSIDE CIRCUMFERENCE* of the belt , K = Kevlar
3L = 3/8” wide with 7/32" Depth
4L = 1/2” wide with 5/16" Depth
5L = 5/8” wide with 13/32" Depth
For "L" belts, you always add a 0 to length of the *OUTSIDE* circumference of the belt -- 89” = 890, 110” = 1100, 147” = 1470

*Belts Starting with A, or B*
Example : B144K
B = 5/8” wide with 13/32" Depth -- The belt length is 144” at the *INSIDE CIRCUMFERENCE* of the belt , K = Kevlar
A/4L Section- 1/2" Width X 5/16" Depth--(add 2” to the *inside* circumference to convert to “L” #)
B/5L Section- 5/8" Width X 13/32" Depth--(add 3” to the *inside* circumference to convert to “L” #)
4L890K = 1/2” x 89”, Kevlar (89" at the *OUTSIDE* circumference)
A87K = 1/2” x 89”, Kevlar (89" at the *OUTSIDE* circumference/87" at the *INSIDE*)

5L1470K = 5/8” x 147”, Kevlar (147" at the *OUTSIDE* circumference)
B144K = 5/8” x 147”, Kevlar (147" at the *OUTSIDE* circumference/144" at the *INSIDE*)

*PRICING EXAMPLE -- John Deere M112414 5/8” X 147” deck belt 
Using John Deere OEM # M112414 - $92*
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352527942356
*Using 5L1470K - $30*
https://www.vbeltsupply.com/5lk1470-5l1470k-kevlar-corded-belt.html
*Using B144K - $27
https://www.vbeltsupply.com/b144k-wrapped-kevlar-belt.html
*
Same exact size belt in all three examples....
"What about John Deere quality?".... John Deere *didn't *make the belt, they didn't even make the $.50 packaging sleeve !!!!


----------



## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

That's where I get mine too! 
*https://www.vbeltsupply.com 

They run special on July 4th and over the Christmas to New Years holidays. 
 *


----------



## ralphvladeck (Mar 22, 2021)

Bob Driver said:


> The easiest way to come up with a replacement V-belt for your lawnmower is to go to the parts diagram and just simply look up the part #. It’s the easiest, but not necessarily the cheapest way to come up with a replacement belt. What you usually get from the diagram is their OEM part #. The OEM’s don’t actually make the belts they use. They buy them from the big boys that make belts by the million like Goodyear, Dayco, or Gates and have them put in a $.50 packaging sleeve with their logo and OEM part # on it. Replacement V-belts are a huge profit center for any OEM lawnmower shop. Just ask anybody that has bought a replacement belt using the John Deere OEM # (it’s the #1 replacement part on their mowers). If you use THEIR part #, you get to pay THEIR price for the privilege. If you want to save money on that next replacement V-belt, you need to understand the codes the V-belt OEM’s use to get the best price on a belt. NAPA, Autozone, and O’Reily’s all sell a quality belt you could use on your mower for much cheaper than the OEM #, you just need to give the kid behind the counter a part# he can reference. He may even be smart enough to use a belt gauge, but probably not…
> 
> What a belt gauge does is measure the width, length, and hugely important (to the part#) *SECTION IDENTIFIER* of the belt. It then converts those dimensions to the universal codes the OEM’s use to identify belts. There are two different systems used to *start* a universal belt # and they denote the section identifier of the belt They are as follows … Number followed by the letter "L" (3L, 4L, 5L), or simply a letter (A,B).
> 
> ...


That is absolutely true Bob!!...I figure out after looking for the places where the belts from Ace Hardware belts were made and discover that they get those belts from a belt manufacturer: 10-20% is the belt price and 90-80% is the price of the brand name printed on the belt. I guess all that marketing they make to create those brands must come out from somebody's pocket. I have some times a hard time to get the PN of my belt so what I do is that I call an industrial belt distributor www.gprindustrial.com and they help me to identify the belt I need. I just need to have my old belt and a measuring tape and they give me to get the right belt.


----------



## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

ralphvladeck said:


> That is absolutely true Bob!!...I figure out after looking for the places where the belts from Ace Hardware belts were made and discover that they get those belts from a belt manufacturer: 10-20% is the belt price and 90-80% is the price of the brand name printed on the belt. I guess all that marketing they make to create those brands must come out from somebody's pocket. I have some times a hard time to get the PN of my belt so what I do is that I call an industrial belt distributor www.gprindustrial.com and they help me to identify the belt I need. I just need to have my old belt and a measuring tape and they give me to get the right belt.


Yep..... That's was the whole point of the post. If you use a tape measure to come up with the length on belts, 4L (1/2") and 5L (5/8") belts the length is *OUTSIDE* circumference. A (1/2") and B (5/8") belts the length is measured *INSIDE*. Kevlar (Aramid) belts won't stretch as much, give you a better chance of them staying on, and last twice as long. Regular polyester industrial/automotive belts are made to be put on equipment that runs steady.... They are not designed for a high shock, start/stop, environment like engaging the deck on a lawnmower. John Deere doesn't make that belt, but they will sure dent the hell out of your wallet if you buy one with their name/logo on that $.10 sleeve


----------

