# Help! Ford 8n tractor has no spark



## Mb8181 (10 mo ago)

Hey everyone we recently bought a 1958 Ford 8N tractor (non running) turns over but won’t even run on starting fluid. Has new spark plugs and everything. Anyway I pulled one of the plugs hit the starter and no visible spark, wouldn’t even shock me if I put my finger on it. So anyway diagnosed it as not having spark. All the plugs are champion H12. Any idea what would be causing this? Thanks!


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

G'day Mb8181, welcome to the forum, dirty points, incorrect points gap, crook condenser, same with ignition coil, corrosion in the distributor cap HT lead connection points, failed rotor, no contact between distributor cap and rotor, failed high tension leads, blown fuse, no voltage to the coil as a result.

Don't rush out and buy all of these parts until you eyeball and check these areas, if you have a cheap multimeter, this will help you quite a lot to check voltage flows in the ignition system and these are easy to use.

First is to check the points for clearance and if the contacts are clean or pitted, then the distributor cap for connection between the cap and rotor, usually a flat spring on the rotor or a spring loaded piece of hard graphite that sits on the rotor head and this sits inside the distributor cap, pull each HT lead from the cap one lead at a time and check for corrosion on the lead ends and the cap receptor, the rest will need a multimeter for voltage checking.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum. 1948 or 1958? a '48 would be an 8N, a '58 would be a hundred series tractor. a bit of a difference.
Sounds like a '48. Follow along with what FredM mentions and let us know. We can then help you out a little, and put your question in the proper thread.


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## Vanman08 (Aug 1, 2020)

If it has a front distributor make sure the little spring on the bottom of the coil makes contact with the distributor.


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## Happy Acres (9 mo ago)

Mb8181 said:


> Hey everyone we recently bought a 1958 Ford 8N tractor (non running) turns over but won’t even run on starting fluid. Has new spark plugs and everything. Anyway I pulled one of the plugs hit the starter and no visible spark, wouldn’t even shock me if I put my finger on it. So anyway diagnosed it as not having spark. All the plugs are champion H12. Any idea what would be causing this? Thanks!


Did you check or replace the coil? You should have one side marked maybe (+) plus? Any way make sure there is a + 6/12 volts on the coil. If not check for a open circuit...Hope you found the problem by now!


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Hey 8181 - how have you done on that '58 / '48?

Lets just assume she's-a '48 N series.

I had the same sort of problem with my '40 9N and here's what I did:

It would eventually start and having a brand new battery that seemed to be 100% good I started tracking down potential problems. She was a 12 volt Neg ground conversion and so, trusting nothing to chance I checked each and every wire connection to be sure that all the connections were tight and clean CHECK! 
So - electrical paths were OK including points, wires and plugs. 
Next fuel (Looks as tho you're there right now). New fuel with good flow to the carb intake flare nut. CHECK!
So then pull all 4 plugs and squirt a couple of drops of gas into each plug hole and finger tighten the plugs and connect the wires. CHECK!
IF she runs for a second or two then the problem is definitely, mostly, in the Carb. Pull the carb, strip it down completely and clean the snot out'a it. Clean, Clean, Clean and then reassemble, using a kit if that seems a good idea. CHECK!
With the carb right side up blow into the fuel-in connection which should pass air through. Then turn carb down-side up and blow in again which should not pass any air. That is to check the float, needle valve and all the tiny little things you cleaned. (Sally, my '40 9N, had a small rust bulge that ever-so-slightly grazed the float. Wire Wheel and Gone! CHECK!

One word - please promise me you won't weaken and buy a shiny, new, Chineesium carb from the net - You will thoroughly regret it from the second you try to use it until you convert it into a shop lamp.

Joe, right now in Idaho


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## Skunk life (8 mo ago)

pertronix coil and electronic ignition. Really easy to install. Makes it harder to flood easier to start. Skip the points and the $5 condenser that will burn up if you leave the key on.


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## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Yes Sir, Skunk Life, I failed to mention that I did that, too. 

As others have mentioned, sometimes you should first just fix whatever stops The Old Girl from starting first, before graduating to streamlining the operation one step at a time. When getting into a better starting phase there is no motivation better than an instantly starting engine. In my case (Sally is a '40 9N) I pulled the square, front mount coil and replaced it with a modern round one along with the Electronic Ignition., one time investments "That Keep on Ticking"

So, all in all I ended up FIRST getting Sally running (thoroughly cleaning her cast iron carb) and then progressed through new Petronix parts (incl that round coil) and then finally new, recommended, plugs and wires, all one step at a time. 

Almost 2 years on the new parts and never having a "Cranky Girl" has well been worth the effort.

- Joe S -


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## allanworks (8 mo ago)

Skunk life said:


> pertronix coil and electronic ignition. Really easy to install. Makes it harder to flood easier to start. Skip the points and the $5 condenser that will burn up if you leave the key on.


I second this guy's recommendation I did a 12v conversion and electronic ignition install on my tractor. it gives you a tiny boost in hp and you never have to deal with points, condensers, and Chinese junk again. you don't even have to hold the start button for 1/2 a second before she roars to life every time. TBH it scared the shit out of me the first time. I wasn't expecting it to fire up so fast.


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## Garylou (May 19, 2020)

Try hot wiring the thing. These old girls sometimes have a defective ignition resistor which will prevent current from flowing to the coil when the key is on... get a jumper and run from battery straight to coil then try her if she fires you know the problem...good luck....shoot some ether in there and go for it.


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