# ford 3000 voltage stablizer questions



## 66ford3000 (Sep 16, 2015)

Does any one have the correct way to wire a voltage stablizer on 66 ford 3000 diesel, im not sure if i have mine right, not sure if it matters on where i have the source wire come into it


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Battery (+ from "ignition switch") connection lugs should be marked "B".
Connection lugs for instruments should be marked "I".

If you switch the connections you may fry the coil, and the stabilizer stays closed thereafter. That means no stabilizing and the gauges show high readings. The stabilizer is dead.

The ground connection goes through the metal casing and mounting screws, make sure the casing is properly fastened and that the cluster is grounded. If there is no ground connection, the coil never heats up and there will not be any stabilizing (high readings as above).

Some info:
http://www.locust.org.uk/knowlegebase/voltage/voltage.htm

If you find that the stabilizer is dead, consider converting it to a solid state version:
http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/voltageStabilizer/voltageStabilizer.html

As said in the linked info, if you measure the output from a stabilizer, an analog meter (needle type) should be used. If you only have a digital meter and it shows a fairly steady value of 12-14V or 0V, the stabilizer is dead.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Your voltage stabilizer should have male and female connectors, so you can't wire it backwards. You can check that it's functioning with an analog voltmeter...(the meter needle fluctuates indicating the stabilizer is working). 

We normally say that the output of the stabilizer is 5V DC to the fuel and temperature gauges. But it's a bit more complicated than that. It is 12V DC switched on and off like a turn signal, yielding an average of 5V DC. You cannot accurately measure the output voltage with either a digital voltmeter or an analog voltmeter because of the rapidly fluctuating voltage. 

I found the following explanation on the internet written by *JMOR*, which may help understanding how the voltage stabilizer works:
_______________________________________________

"The answer is that I don't know a really good way to tell most folks how to measure one, because of the way they work. 
It can be misleading to say it limits the voltage to the gauge. It averages the voltage to the gauge by switching on and off much like a turn signal flasher. It does not convert 12V to 5V or limit the output to 5V,,, its on and off time should average around 5V. If it were on for 1 second at 12V and off for one second at 0V then the average would be 6V. It is not possible to measure this with a digital voltmeter and not even with an analog voltmeter as to rate is too fast for the needle to settle down, but with the analog meter at least you can see the tic-toc going on as it switches."

Note to Hacke: Sorry Hacke...We were both typing at the same time. Excellent post as usual.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Hello there Sixbales,
I have always thought the output voltage was the same as for the stabilizers on cars at that time, 10V. I have never measured the output from a functional stabilizer. If it is 5V, the solid state version needs different ingredients.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Hacke,

The 5V was determined with an oscilloscope. I've never measured or witnessed it either. The stabilizer output voltage should be a "square wave", with similar duration of the 12V pulse versus the 0V pulse. With equal durations, I would expect 6V output. Maybe it's not a square wave? 

To get 10V output, the duration of the 12V pulse must be much longer than the duration of the 0V period?

The variable resistance of the fuel and temperature sending units also has an affect on the output. 

I really don't know the answer to this. Maybe he should stay with the conventional stabilizer. I re-wired my entire tractor after a fire 20+ years ago, and haven't had a problem with the instrument panel in all that time. It's a durable component


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## 66ford3000 (Sep 16, 2015)

My stablizer is pretty old and i dont see any letters on it


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

If it is not different types of connections as Sixbales said, open it and have a look.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

In reading your previous post, your temperature gauge is working, but your concern is it is it may be reading high. Either that or your engine is running hot. 

Put an analog voltmeter on the output to the gauges to see if the needle fluctuates, which would indicate that the stabilizer is working. If it reads 12V DC with no fluctuation, then you know that the stabilizer isn't working. It cannot read zero because the temperature gauge is functioning. 

Check that the stabilizer has a good ground.

I gather that there is no male/female connectors on the stabilizer?


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## 66ford3000 (Sep 16, 2015)

All fixed!, thanks! I moved my wires on the stabilzer and that was it, i did end up replacing the theromstat and when i put the one that was in it in boiling water it didnt open until about 208, thanks everyone, just trying to get it all back to perfect running condition


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