# 3210V Won't Start



## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

Hey guys, first real post!

I picked up a great looking 3210V the other day. It's my first mower, as I've just closed on my house. Previous owner had not used it in several years, so I picked it up cheap.

I changed the filters and the oil. Drained the gas can and refilled with fresh. New battery, new spark plug. Checked the points--gap is correct, and points and condenser look brand new. 

Should be good to go, right? I turned the key for the first time, and the engine just turns and turns, never catches.

Okay, thinks I, perhaps the carb is gummed up from sitting so long. So I disassemble and clean the carb, and try again. Turns and turns and turns. Starter fluid doesn't seem to help.....

Any suggestions?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Remove the sparkplug,and hold a finger over the hole.Roll it over,and check for compression. If compression is present,check for spark,at the plug. If no spark,replace the condenser,at the points (they can go bad from sitting).
If it has spark,but no compression,check to make sure the valves are opening/closing properly.One of them could be sticky. If this is the case,squirt some PB BLASTER into the cylinder,and roll it over slowly,then let it set for an hour,or so,and check it again.


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## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

I have good compression, but no spark.

The condenser looks brand new, but I know it sat for at least 2 years, so I guess I'll replace it anyway....

Thanks!


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

If it still doesn't have spark,after replacing the condenser,it may have a bad coil,or a bad Ignition switch,or ,the wire to the points is on the wrong side of the connector,or shorted ,between the coil,and the points.
Try disconnecting the wire from the switch,to the little post that connects it to the coil(it should be on the throttle/governor linkage plate).


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## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

Alright, took some investigating, but I got her running. The cover for the Points/Condenser was somehow or another robbing my spark........I got spark with the cover off, put it back on and got nada. So I replaced the gasket and now she runs. Two problems showed up on our little trip around the yard: 1) Gas is dripping out of the vent hole on the carb when it's running. 2) The clutch isn't giving me much-- even with it fully depressed, I get some grinding when I go to shift. It's bad enough that it takes some effort to actually get it into any gear other than 1st.

I figure the carb is probably still a little gummed up, so I'm going to take it apart and clean it really well again. Any suggestions beyond that?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

There should be an adjustment on the clutch linkage. It sounds as though it's not fully disengaging.


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## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

Alright guys, here's the update:

Got it running. The problem was a bent emulsion tube, so I replaced it and now it runs and mows. Just mowed the yard, field, and orchard today (it's a nice day in east Tennessee, by the way). 
I'm thrilled with the cut, to say the least. 

The only concern is that I couldn't get it to run without the choke until I had been mowing for about 35 minutes. Every time I tried to push the choke in, even a little, it sputtered and died. After I mowed the entire back field, I started on the orchard, where it died and wouldn't start. I finally tried starting with the choke all the way in, and it fired and ran great the rest of the day. 

I assume I need to adjust something in the carb, but it ran great after I got it re-started, so I don't know which screws need to be turned which way to address the issue.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

The carb has picked up another bit of Trash from the fuel system that is probably plugging the emulsion tube just a little. After running a while it cleared the trash and it started running good again. I would put a treatment of SeaFoam in the tank to try and dissolve any remaining trash. Change the fuel filter if you haven't already. If it starts acting bad again pull the run mixture screw all the way out and let about a half pint of gas come out. That may wash the trash out. Or you might just try opening the run mixture screw just a bit and it might give you enough fuel so that the choke is not necessary until the SeaFoam has had time to perform its cleaning.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

You may not have to adjust anything. It some times takes a bit of running to clear any deposits. I would replace the filter,and put 4oz. of carb cleaner in the fuel tank,and run it fora bit. If it still acts up,then you can worry about adjustments.


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## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

Thanks!

The Fuel Filter is brand new, and it started fine today without the choke. I think maybe you're right, and it just needed to run a while. I will put some seafoam in there, just in case. 

Thanks again!


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

I am thinking that it should require the choke to start when the engine is cold. Otherwise it may actually be running a tad rich.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

Many if not Most with these old cast iron L heads treat prophylacticly with SeaFoam every other tank full.


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## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

Good call. Will lean it out a quarter turn and add SeaFoam. Thanks!


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## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

Unfortunate update:

I finally got the old girl running great, sounds good, mows beautifully. I was on the second pass with the disc on my little garden plot and my transmission gave up on me.

I was running fine in 1st gear, had to stop, lift the disc and back up to turn around---when I put it back in 1st gear: nothing. 

The clutch seems to be working properly, but the shifter is completely free, it doesn't seem to be engaging the transmission at all, regardless of shifter position or clutch position.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Pushing it back to the shed was no fun. The garden is small enough I can hoe it all in a few hours, but the yard will need to be mowed this weekend.

Thanks in advance!


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

Sounds like the shifter post has snapped off or fallen out.
Item #13


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## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

anybody got a part# or a good place to pick one up? My local dealer looked at me like I was crazy for going there expecting them to stock belts, so that's not an option.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

Here is your manual http://www.simplicitymfg.com/us/en/document/index?doc=TP_800_1319_01_LL_S_LO.pdf
Try part #154261 shift stem.

I get my parts from Brenda at www.sandylakeimp.com

Your tractor's mfg# is likely 990568 or 990569.


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## TwoDollarBill (Jan 1, 2013)

Thanks a lot!


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