# What brand of OIL do you use?



## timtim2008

What brand of OIL do you use?



Do you choose based on price? or brand? or type?


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## Hoodoo Valley

Castrol, every time. Just because.


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## MBTRAC

:thumbsup:Second that - (almost) exclusively Castrol in all our gear.............(IMO) just because there's none better...but any brand of oil is only good if it's regularly changed & backed up by quality filters.


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## stickerpicker

In later years I have determined the best choice is whatever is cheap and slick with the correct API identification for the engine I'm putting it in.

With that in mind I recently bought 3 cases of Kendall for a buck ninety eight / QT. 

Used Texaco Havoline for a long time but it became more difficult to find and didn't meet the cheeeep requirement where it could be found.

I too have never seen engine failure because of brand.


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## wjjones

MBTRAC said:


> :thumbsup:Second that - (almost) exclusively Castrol in all our gear.............(IMO) just because there's none better...but any brand of oil is only good if it's regularly changed & backed up by quality filters.




3rd that I only use Castrol, and always have.


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## country Gent

AMSOIL SYNTHETIC for serious protection. (30w small eng) Old clunkers well I do the cheap API stuff. Shop the specials @ Big Lots, Dollar Stores, Etc, Etc.


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## Hoodoo Valley

stickerpicker said:


> In later years I have determined the best choice is whatever is cheap and slick with the correct API identification for the engine I'm putting it in.
> 
> With that in mind I recently bought 3 cases of Kendall for a buck ninety eight / QT.
> 
> Used Texaco Havoline for a long time but it became more difficult to find and didn't meet the cheeeep requirement where it could be found.
> 
> I too have never seen engine failure because of brand.


That's a heck of a deal considering oils about $4.50 a gosh darn quart these days.


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## Thomas

Always like Pennzoil thru the years..even 10W 40 times.


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## wjjones

tractor beam said:


> That's a heck of a deal considering oils about $4.50 a gosh darn quart these days.



I bought some Castrol here today for changing the oil in my truck, and it is $5.59 a quart now.


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## country Gent

wjjones you need to buy it by the 5 qt jug at Walmart. I use Castrol High Mileage in my wife's 98 Durango which runs more then GTX and it's just under $18.00 for 5 qts.


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## Hoodoo Valley

wjjones said:


> I bought some Castrol here today for changing the oil in my truck, and it is $5.59 a quart now.


Ouch! Hard to believe huh?


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## Argee

Rotella T 15W-40.....bought it for my diesels.....use it in everything!


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## gaspur

I use Mobile One 15W-40 in my Kubota GST tractor motor. Valvoline Packs Kubota's oil in 15w-40 , but it is harder to fine at a reasonable price as is Kubota's oil.


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## WJBMF35

Rotella T 5W40.


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## Deerlope

Mobil DelVac 1300 15-40 in all my diesels


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## jd3020

*brand of oil*

The brand is of less importance than the rating I buy in bulk,5.or 55 gal ; but I make sure it carries the highest diesel rating as well as meets as many diesel specs as possible. Reguardless,wether it's going in a gas job or diesel then I know it's good oil


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## Richard-tx

Castrol 20w50 - I have used it for over 20 years and it is never let me down.


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## smithed

*What brand oil*

I have heard that all oil comes from the same few refineries. Is that true? If so does it really matter what brand? I have always tried to stay with name brands but when I heard that I went with price.


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## Argee

smithed said:


> I have heard that all oil comes from the same few refineries. Is that true? If so does it really matter what brand? I have always tried to stay with name brands but when I heard that I went with price.


I've heard that too.......but.....I'm a believer that when you're using something that is working for you.....hold the course. To use an old euphemism* "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"*


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## SR5J

Quaker state full synthetic 5w-30 in vehicles, Shell Rotella T 15w-40 in tractors/equipment.


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## ben70b

Mobil one in my pickups, torque guard in the tractors, valvaline in the lawn mowers and small engines


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## tractorman14

I love it. 






~drake


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## Hoodoo Valley

tractorman14 said:


> I love it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~drake


Love.........what?


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## spgseth

MOBIL 1 in trucks and small engines...........Mobil Delvac in tractor


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## pastornator

Amsoil for anything I care about. Valvoline for everything else unless it is an old oil burner or doesn't need anything worth using, then whatever store brand is cheapest.

I used to work in a hydraulics lab and had close to a million dollars worth of oil testing equipment at my disposal. I ran tests on a multitude of common oil products including an ASTM recirculating ball test (run a ball bearing on a rotating shaft under spring pressure with a controlled oil drip to lubricate). Penzoil was by far the worst oil I tested (it also plugged up my Royco particle counter -- a test that looked for how much dirt/crud was in the oil). It broke the shaft in half after just over 30 minutes of running. Amsoil on the other hand ran 30 days and didn't even wear a shiny spot on the shaft. Valvoline was the next best dino oil and it shined up the shaft but I could not measure wear. Others fell between those points in wear with Havoline being far better than Castrol. Mobil 1 was ok, but that was their earliest effort. Their extended service oil is decent -- just about Amsoil. Their regular oil is not special at all. Castrol doesn't even produce oil, they buy on the spot market and add their own blend of additives. It can change depending on the base stocks. 

Mobil Delvac is ok for diesels. Used to be Shell Rotella, but the Mobil outperforms the Shell these days, and at a better price point as well.

Several brands of oil sell good because of marketing, particularly Castrol and Pennzoil, but neither even place close to being "good" in terms of length of service or true lubricity (not to mention the crud that Pennzoil deposits inside an engine -- just ask any engine rebuilder and they will tell you that they can identify Pennzoil engines upon disasembly!).


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## oldguychuck

I use Conoco 66 - I guess because that's what our local store that caters to loggers/farmers/and ranchers sells. Nobody seems to have a problem with the brand...

Cheers

oldguychuck


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## skunkhome

It depends on the engine. I use Rotella T 15-40 in my Hatz diesel. My most exclusive is MB spec 229.51 synthetic I run in my sprinter. It is hard to find. 13 qt oil change runs roughly $100 for the oil alone. I run Fuchs 0w-30 that I buy off the internet.


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## freedhardwoods

I have never been overly partial to any certain brand. I would just pick one and stay with it just to be consistent. I used Kendall in my cars and pickups until I bought a semi truck.

When I got the semi, I started using Rotella 15w-40 in everything because I could buy it at a good price from a local distributor; the same one that some stores in the area bought from.

Sometime soon after, I started using Lucas oil additive. In the semi, I used 10 gallons of oil with 2 gallons of Lucas; in cars & pickups 4 quarts oil, 1 quart Lucas.

The second semi I bought had 350,000 miles on it when I bought it. At 1,000,000 miles, a wrist pin broke and I decided to do a complete reman on the engine. You could still see hone marks on every cylinder and the bearings showed very minimal wear. That proved to me that my mix was doing a pretty good job, but I can't say another mix couldn't do just as well.

One of the semi trailers I bought had synthetic hub oil in it. When a wheel seal let go on the road, I decided to fill it with Lucas hub oil and see if that would slow it down enough to get home. It didn't just slow it down, it completely stopped leaking. I still changed the seal when I got home. I also started using Lucas hub oil in all my hubs.

I let my 60 gallon, 5 hp air compressor run low on oil and it seized up. I opened it up, heated the aluminum rod and got it unseized, but still very stiff. I started turning it while spraying WD-40 on it until I cleaned out the crud and it started to loosen up. I kept turning it using progressively thicker oil. I finally cleaned it thoroughly with ether and put it together with Lucas hub oil in the crankcase. I turned the pulley by hand for 5 minutes and then started it up. I never changed the leaking seal, and it's been running that way for years with no leaks.

I told these stories to explain why I am partial to Lucas products now, but it wouldn't surprise me if someone else could tell the same stories about a different brand.

Now that I don't own a semi, I use Valvoline + Lucas in everything.


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## Clay

pastornator said:


> Several brands of oil sell good because of marketing, particularly Castrol and Pennzoil, but neither even place close to being "good" in terms of length of service or true lubricity (not to mention the crud that Pennzoil deposits inside an engine -- just ask any engine rebuilder and they will tell you that they can identify Pennzoil engines upon disasembly!).


I have asked many and not a one has ever confirmed this nonsense.

In my own experiments I believe Pennzoil provided better mpg than whatever other I had just changed out from. But even though I'm a Pennzoil fan I use something else when the price is that much better. 

Preference to Pennzoil for gas and Mobil for diesel.


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## veeguy

*Quacker State oils*

I haven't used Quaker State products since the 1970's. Quaker State used to sponsor a multi car race team called "Group 44" in the 1970s. They were a major player in SCCA Professional road racing. They raced British Triumphs. I also raced a Triumph Spitfire as an independent and I used to buy their used tires to save money. I also used to get a lot of free advice on tuning my Triumph's engine.

One time at Road America, I went to their paddock to buy a set of tires and I happened on one of their mechanics in their "Quaker State - Group 44" Semi trailer filling Quaker State oil cans with Castrol oil. I asked him why he was doing this and he told me the Quaker State oil "burns up the cams" in their engines. The Castrol allowed them to get a season out of an engine while if using Quaker State they would end up putting bearings in every other week. But since Quaker State was their sponsor...

Now granted this was 40 years ago and their formulation has no doubt changed but I just can't bring myself to pour Quaker State into an engine I wish to keep for any length of time.


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## b349

Amsoil hd 15w40. Use amsoil in everything.


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## KellyTractors

Always have, always will,

http://www.valvoline.com.au/explore-our-products/all-products/engine-oil/universal-tractor-oil/valvoline-farmplus-universal-tractor-oil


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## Joisey

I used Quaker State Super Blend in the sixties (back when it was still good), switched to Kendall and used Castrol in the motorcycles. 

Read a lot about synthetic oils and had a renter that raced for Honda (motorcycles). They had a problem with cams, rocker arms and shafts galling after one race using Honda synthetic oil. They switched to Mobil1 (actually poured it in empty Honda synthetic oil bottles for race use) and stopped losing cams and rocker arms. Parts were shiny and within spec at the end of the season when using Mobil1.

Saw an article on Amsoil and researched it. Bought a case of synthetic diesel oil for my old Case 680CK. Two years later while pushing snow in the winter (when else would you push snow?) the main oil feed tube that supplied the engine and the counterbalancer came loose. Zero oil pressure, and then the engine started to shake when the counterbalancer came apart. I drove the tractor a half mile back to my garage with zero oil pressure and shaking like crazy.

When I tore the engine down I expected to find the crankshaft scored along with the cylinders. The crankshaft was smooth and well within spec, the cylinders were unscored but worn. The counterbalancer had been "fixed" by a previous "mechanic" and had the bearings peened in place. The peening let the bearings turn when the engine lost pressure from the oil line that they hadn't tightened.

I rebuilt the engine with new sleeve assemblies, a new updated counterbalance assembly, new bearings, gaskets and seals. I used Amsoil from assembly onward until I sold the loader just last year, a full 16 years and over 3000 hours of use. Never burned any oil, nor had a leak problem, as so many "diesel experts assured me would happen when I used synthetic oil in an old style (1965) piece of diesel heavy equipment.

I now use Amsoil synthetic oil in everything. Lawnmower, chainsaw, generators, cars and trucks. Oh, speaking of 2 stroke Amsoil oil. When you use Lawnboy oil in their pushmowers there is a problem with exhaust port bridging from carbon which will score the piston and cylinder if not cleared usually yearly. The Amsoil 2 stroke oil has never left more than a film of carbon on the exhaust port, and the smoke usually associated with 2 stroke exhaust is almost nonexistent.


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## TraderMark

For the past 6-8 years I've used NAPA branded oil.
5W30 full synthetic for the car and truck (gas engines)
Heavy duty 15W40 for the tractors.

I've never had an oil related failure.
The reason I started using the NAPA branded oil is because they put their oil
on sale here 2 or 3 times a year. This month they have 5W30 full synthetic on sale 
for $2.99/qt. That's almost half price of most others.

Same with the diesel oil. It goes on sale 2 or 3 times a year for 8.99-9.99/gal.

When oil is on sale I buy several cases of each to last me until the next time it goes on sale.


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## fltoolman

I use LE lubrication engineers its really good if you can find it.


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## dutchs

I'm with Ben, I use Mobil One in Everything I have.....


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## llstevens

In this day and age, synthetic is the best. I use 5W30 valvoline syn power or castrol edge in the cars......in the truck and tractor ( both diesel) rotella T6 5W40.
Use good quality filters, not the cheapest.....a filter suitable for synthetic oil.


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## GregTx

Back in the early 70s when I first started racing stock cars on the short tracks in Central Texas, I was using Penzoil but had a problem with foaming. I switched to Valvoline and did not have any more problems. I have been using Valvoline ever since in all of my cars, trucks and my farm tractors with no problems at all. Most Nascar teams use Valvoline and have for many years, and if an oil is going to break down, it's gonna do it in a 500 mile race that goes on for several hours.


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## ZZ71

I have used AMSOIL since 1975 in everything...


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## BigDog1956

timtim2008 said:


> what brand of oil do you use?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you choose based on price? Or brand? Or type?


oil for what diesel or gas motor ?????????????


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## Joisey

Well, after 10 years of using Amsoil Signature 0W30 in my 2006 GMC pickup I'm throwing in the towel. 

About five years ago I phoned Amsoil and asked why, about a month or so after I do an oil change, my oil level drops almost a pint? They told me that I was reading the stick wrong when I installed the fresh oil, the truck wasn't level, etc. 

The trouble is that after this initial "burn off" I would all about a pint and my oil level wouldn't drop a fraction for the almost 7000 miles until I chaged the oil and filter, then the process would repeat itself.

I changed to Amsoil Signature 5W30 oil and the problem still existed, but it was reduced by more than 50%. I lost about 5 or 6 ounces after 400 or 500 miles (I check my fluids weekly, or daily if on a trip), but it didn't go away. At this time I noticed that the NOACK volatility weight loss % for the Signature 5W30 oil was about 1% more than for the Signature 0W30 oil. 1% of 7 quarts is 2.24 ounces. The NOACK volatility on the 0W30 is 8.4%, or 18.8 ounces in 7 quarts, and the volatility for the 5W30 is 7.5%, or 16.8 ounces in 7 quarts. 

This plainly explains why I lost about a pint of oil following an oil change. Didn't Amsoil realize this?

I changed to Amsoil at 300 miles on my new GMC pickup. Now, at over 103,000 I changed to Mobil 1 5W30 extended performance oil. Over 1000 miles since an oil change and the level hasn't dropped an fraction of an inch. This is my second oil change using Mobil 1. Zero oil is used between changes, about 7000 miles.

Amsoil makes good oil, and great 2 stroke oil. They have to get their act together on their volatility loss in their gas engine oil.


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## WJBMF35

Joisey said:


> Well, after 10 years of using Amsoil Signature 0W30 in my 2006 GMC pickup I'm throwing in the towel.
> 
> About five years ago I phoned Amsoil and asked why, about a month or so after I do an oil change, my oil level drops almost a pint? They told me that I was reading the stick wrong when I installed the fresh oil, the truck wasn't level, etc.
> 
> The trouble is that after this initial "burn off" I would all about a pint and my oil level wouldn't drop a fraction for the almost 7000 miles until I chaged the oil and filter, then the process would repeat itself.
> 
> I changed to Amsoil Signature 5W30 oil and the problem still existed, but it was reduced by more than 50%. I lost about 5 or 6 ounces after 400 or 500 miles (I check my fluids weekly, or daily if on a trip), but it didn't go away. At this time I noticed that the NOACK volatility weight loss % for the Signature 5W30 oil was about 1% more than for the Signature 0W30 oil. 1% of 7 quarts is 2.24 ounces. The NOACK volatility on the 0W30 is 8.4%, or 18.8 ounces in 7 quarts, and the volatility for the 5W30 is 7.5%, or 16.8 ounces in 7 quarts.
> 
> This plainly explains why I lost about a pint of oil following an oil change. Didn't Amsoil realize this?
> 
> I changed to Amsoil at 300 miles on my new GMC pickup. Now, at over 103,000 I changed to Mobil 1 5W30 extended performance oil. Over 1000 miles since an oil change and the level hasn't dropped an fraction of an inch. This is my second oil change using Mobil 1. Zero oil is used between changes, about 7000 miles.
> 
> Amsoil makes good oil, and great 2 stroke oil. They have to get their act together on their volatility loss in their gas engine oil.


Thanks for sharing this. I have had no oil use with off the shelf brands, going to stick with them.


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## Joisey

In all honesty, I had a similar problem with Castrol Syntec some 20 years back in my Ford Explorer. Do and oil change and the level would drop about half a quart after a month or so of use. Top up and it stayed within a fraction of the full line until the 3500 mile change.

I read somewhere, I lost the link, that Castrol Syntec actually ISN'T synthetic oil, but highly refined dead dinosaur matter. It was a reputable source. I have to see if I can find the link.


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## skunkhome

Pretty much not concerned with brand. if it meets the specs I'll use it. In my Hatz diesel I use Rotella 15w-40. but My Mercedes Sprinter diesel gets only oil specified MB 229.51 of MB 229.52 Few oil manufacturers meet that specification. I have used Castrol, Fuchs and Mobil One ESP Typically these oils retail for $10-12/qt and you can't find them on the shelf anywhere but the Mobil One is available at NAPA. Fortunately NAPA puts the oil on sale about once a quarter for just under $6/qt. Still a 13 qt oil change can really get into your pocket. I keep several qts on board my RV because the chances of Finding the oil out on the road is incalculable. Mercedes allows the adding of only one qt of MB229.5 or 229.3 in a pinch but oil must be changed at the earliest possible moment. Anyone ignoring these specs can find themselves paying big money to replace the diesel particle filter. The little 3L diesel is a very capable engine but the emission controls and hurdles you have to jump to comply are a pain in the neck.


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## skunkhome

Well, all synthetic oil is derived from petroleum pumped from the ground, natural gas or coal. You got to get the hydrocarbons from somewhere.


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## Bushpig

I use Valvoline oils. There is a reason behind this. Valvoline is a good oil. There may be some better ones, but a little known tidbit.. Carquest and Napa oil is made by Valvoline. And those "house brands" are usually a LOT cheaper. Also, I only use Wix filters. Both Napa and Carquest filters are re-badged Wix.. Again, discount because its a "house brand"


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## WJBMF35

Bushpig said:


> I use Valvoline oils. There is a reason behind this. Valvoline is a good oil. There may be some better ones, but a little known tidbit.. Carquest and Napa oil is made by Valvoline. And those "house brands" are usually a LOT cheaper. Also, I only use Wix filters. Both Napa and Carquest filters are re-badged Wix.. Again, discount because its a "house brand"


Only in USA - up here Car Quest oil is Irving Oil out East.

I second Valvoline - excellent cold start oil, even the syn blend.


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## Bushpig

WJBMF35 said:


> Only in USA - up here Car Quest oil is Irving Oil out East.
> 
> I second Valvoline - excellent cold start oil, even the syn blend.


hmm, learn something new everyday.


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## marc_hanna

skunkhome said:


> Well, all synthetic oil is derived from petroleum pumped from the ground, natural gas or coal. You got to get the hydrocarbons from somewhere.


I think that only applies to Hydro-cracked oils such as PAOs; Esters and other group V base stocks are not petroleum derived.


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## marc_hanna

Joisey said:


> Well, after 10 years of using Amsoil Signature 0W30 in my 2006 GMC pickup I'm throwing in the towel.
> 
> About five years ago I phoned Amsoil and asked why, about a month or so after I do an oil change, my oil level drops almost a pint? They told me that I was reading the stick wrong when I installed the fresh oil, the truck wasn't level, etc.
> 
> The trouble is that after this initial "burn off" I would all about a pint and my oil level wouldn't drop a fraction for the almost 7000 miles until I chaged the oil and filter, then the process would repeat itself.
> 
> I changed to Amsoil Signature 5W30 oil and the problem still existed, but it was reduced by more than 50%. I lost about 5 or 6 ounces after 400 or 500 miles (I check my fluids weekly, or daily if on a trip), but it didn't go away. At this time I noticed that the NOACK volatility weight loss % for the Signature 5W30 oil was about 1% more than for the Signature 0W30 oil. 1% of 7 quarts is 2.24 ounces. The NOACK volatility on the 0W30 is 8.4%, or 18.8 ounces in 7 quarts, and the volatility for the 5W30 is 7.5%, or 16.8 ounces in 7 quarts.
> 
> This plainly explains why I lost about a pint of oil following an oil change. Didn't Amsoil realize this?
> 
> I changed to Amsoil at 300 miles on my new GMC pickup. Now, at over 103,000 I changed to Mobil 1 5W30 extended performance oil. Over 1000 miles since an oil change and the level hasn't dropped an fraction of an inch. This is my second oil change using Mobil 1. Zero oil is used between changes, about 7000 miles.
> 
> Amsoil makes good oil, and great 2 stroke oil. They have to get their act together on their volatility loss in their gas engine oil.


I think the problem just might be with the 30 weight oils. I normally use the 5w40 amsoil and it worked great. Then I tried the 5w30 and I found that I burned quite a bit during the oil change interval. I've switched back to 5w40.


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## dougbthom

I have strictly used Amsoil synthetic in everything I own with great success.


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## marc_hanna

I’m not an Amsoil cultist, but I performed regular interval oil analysis comparing Mobil 1 ESP, Mercedes 229.52, and Amsoil 5w40 Euro, and the Amsoil performed the best. 

I would like to add that all the oils performed well. The Mobil 1 started to break down at 10,000kms. The other two held strong until 18,000kms.


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## dougbthom

timtim2008 said:


> What brand of OIL do you use?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you choose based on price? or brand? or type?


AMSOIL in everything I own!


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## willys55

the on sale or clearance gallons at tractor supply, for the win


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## Joisey

Joisey said:


> In all honesty, I had a similar problem with Castrol Syntec some 20 years back in my Ford Explorer. Do and oil change and the level would drop about half a quart after a month or so of use. Top up and it stayed within a fraction of the full line until the 3500 mile change.
> 
> I read somewhere, I lost the link, that Castrol Syntec actually ISN'T synthetic oil, but highly refined dead dinosaur matter. It was a reputable source. I have to see if I can find the link.



OK, I found an article on Syntec, but not the one I was referring to. Here is a paragraph, then the link.

"At the time, Mobil 1 was comprised of polyalphaolefin (PAO) base stocks, chemically synthesized from ethylene. Its complaint was centered on the fact that Castrol Syntec — comprised of hydrocracked or wax isomerized petroleum base stocks, or highly refined crude oil — was labeled and marketed as synthetic."

https://www.pca.org/news/2015-11-02/synthetic-word-relates-motor-oil


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## PJ161

Rotella 15/40 in my diesels and Valvoline 20/50 in the older gas tractors. Our cold season is short and not as cold as it is further to the North. Plus, all my tractors are stored inside over the winter.


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## marc_hanna

Just for reference; here’s what Amsoil looks like after 110 hours in use.


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## ColoradoTJ

What’s everyone’s take on this?


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## DK35vince

Rotella T 5w-40 has been in my tractor the past 18 years. (Since the first oil change)


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## ColoradoTJ

DK35vince said:


> Rotella T 5w-40 has been in my tractor the past 18 years. (Since the first oil change)


So you may need some more testing duration is what you’re saying?  Pretty good test if you ask me.


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## DK35vince

ColoradoTJ said:


> So you may need some more testing duration is what you’re saying?  Pretty good test if you ask me.


Well I do change the oil every year .
I've been running the same brand for 18 years, not the same oil change.


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## ColoradoTJ

DK35vince said:


> Well I do change the oil every year .
> I've been running the same brand for 18 years, not the same oil change.


Oh I got what you where saying. 18 years is still a good test. How many hours?


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## DK35vince

ColoradoTJ said:


> Oh I got what you where saying. 18 years is still a good test. How many hours?


2001 Kioti DK 35 with 2190 hours.


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## ColoradoTJ

DK35vince said:


> 2001 Kioti DK 35 with 2190 hours.


That’s a good testament for proper maintenance intervals right there, and how a machine can last.


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## DK35vince

ColoradoTJ said:


> That’s a good testament for proper maintenance intervals right there, and how a machine can last.


Entire machine is in excellent condition, and working great.
I'm hoping for another 18 years, 2000+ hours from it.


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