# Diesel problem Ford 6610



## jenx (Jul 7, 2015)

Hello all
New here and pretty new to tractors.
We have a 1970s ford 6610 tractor.
We were having problems with air getting into the system and it turned out the filter head was knackered.
I recently changed the double filter head assembly and got that sorted but although it runs better its still dodgy at low revs.
Do I need to bleed it at the other side of the filters i.e. the pump and injectors?
If so, any advice would be gratefully received.
Cheers


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy jenx,

Welcome to the tractor forum.

The Ford 6610's tractors were made from 1/81 to 12/93. It's an 80's or 90's tractor. Nice tractor.

Attached is a bleeding procedure for your tractor. Thought this might help you to some degree. You may have a blockage/restriction (dirt) somewhere in your fuel system. 

This procedure is written for a tractor that has been run out of fuel and will not start. Since your tractor will start, I would go to bleeding the injectors (steps near the bottom). 

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Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen. 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filters. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of each filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

If your pump is a CAV, it should have may have a bleeder screw (5/16" wrench fits it). If so, open that until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. Otherwise loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittings in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. The engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting tightened. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.


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## jenx (Jul 7, 2015)

Cheers six bales
I'll give that a go


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