# leyland 262 tractor engine seized any way to fix?



## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

hi yesterday I was prepping for winter and topped off the rad with coolant and had the engine idling, now this engine been for years been spitting oil out the exhaust and burning it also burning the coolant so head gasket blown and the power steering pump was always leaking into the engine crank case

well I didn't check the oil pressure last night, yes dumb so don't need to hear the bashing I should check the oil I usually always do when using it and then I just pour more oil in as it just drinks it

but this time all I did was start it from outside and had cap and poured coolant in not thinking of oil

engine was idling and I left it for 20 min and came back seen it shut off figured ran out of gas, but not engine seized the starter trys to get it to engage it wont


I tried with hooking my truck up to the tractor while tractor in forward gear to pull it in hopes it turn engine, also put it in reverse on tractor and tried to pull too I was trying to make engine turn both ways but no go 

so is there a fix I can try to un seize it or em I screwed totally, as I only did this as last night was -6 out or I wouldn't have started tractor and I would have checked oil if I was going to use it but since I was just idling it I never even thought

so I hoping there is some kinda fix to buy me time till next year to fix this engine 

and is the 492 type engine


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

I think you have to start fix Your engine in that Year ....


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

what you mean


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

I hoping there is some kinda fix to buy me time till next year to fix this engine 

[/QUOTE] For start You would check what stops rotating (crankshaft ,or pistons ) . ..Drain the oil and look at crank bearings... Fixing of engine just begun


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

oh it be the crank bearings gone or the would it be the pistons sezed to the walls of the cylinder? and what do I look for when looking at crank bearings? and are those the piston bearings or the crank shaft bearings, and if taking the engine out its not possible got nothing to remove it anymore tractor is broken down in front of my half torn apart backhoe

so I cant pour anything in the cylinders to help


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

I think that You suspect pistons seized (but if You checking that - ok ). You could remove cylinder liner (with piston sezed) because cylinder liner is removed in that engine http://www.tractorspareparts.co.uk/86k937-cylinder-liner-p-367.html . Maybe think about freezing pistons by 
fire extinguisher or something like that ...?


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

can I use fire extinisure while enginer still intacked? without removing anything other then glow plugs? or any other idea

like to get pistons un stuck so I can get oil circulating again?

and do I need a machine shop to put in new sleves to press in or is that something I can do?


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

if the crank shaft bearings are gone then what does that mean in the end


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

You must remove oil pan ,cylinder head ,bolts from connecting rod and sure that pistons stuck . (You checking that -didn't you ?) .If pistons stuck - You could (one by one ) remove cylinder liner with piston and conecting rod .in direction "to cylinder head (cylinder head must be removed first ). Sometimes happens situation when crank bearings stuck - and that gives effect - "crankshaft didnt rotate ". With crankshaft You would go to shop and make cut of the shaft to new crank bearings its standard procedure in that case .. So You will buy new engine kit http://www.tractorspareparts.co.uk/498-engine-kit-ring-piston-98mm-p-548.html and cuting crankshaft for new bearings.After that engine get a new life


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

I haven't checked anything yet I just know when I turn the key it doesn't go and when I hooked my truck up to the tractor and tried to drag it in gear to turn the engine it didn't work so just know its stuck

and what you mean take the crank shaft to the machine shop etc, not 100% what you mean whats standard procedure and does the engine have to come put to get the crank shaft out? and is there a Value kit too as I not sure if the heads valves are cooked either. as I know head gasket is gone, and how hard are the cylinder heads to be removed, and for me to order from the UK it takes a month to order so I making sure I get things I need, and would the crank shaft be damaged? and can it be repaired or replaced


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

You told "I haven't checked anything yet .." Drain oil and remove oil pan after that remove bolts from all connecting rod . You will move pistons by connecting rod and You will be sure that Your problem is in pistons (how many - may be one stuck ) or its in crankshaft bearings (its happens quite often - bearings stuck ) .In that case Its cheep refurbishing .. But in that case removing crankshaft and his cuting for new bearings is obviously ..(in work shop ) For God sake- dont drag that tractor in that condition -You could make more disasters . Start remove oil pan... write what you will see ...good luck .


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

I only did a bit and that ok ill try next week when its a bit warmer, we starting to get the cold weather and its constantly raining, so if its the crank bearings how do you get the crank shaft out without removing the engine from the tractor?


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

It's difficult (remove crankshaft ) but you can unscrew the bolts connecting engine to gearbox and remove tractor to two parts (front (front axle with engine and rear (rear wheels with gearbox ) parts needs be (lift) supported on something


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

Oh its 2 pm in few hours I must wake up to work ...


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

so lets hope its not crank bearings, as there is no way I can support engine and pull it apart I don't have my backhoe and I cant unhook the frontend loader off without another tractor too


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

ok I finally got oil pan off as the stabilizer bar didn't wanna come off so its still in way but I got pan out I took some pics nothing looks broken at least here some pics 

what be my next step?


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

Hi Pay attention to the site and place attachment crank bearing. Unscrew marking screws ,try to move connecting rod (to top or to down).If its moving with piston -piston didnt stuck ... You must try move connecting rod one by one. You could unscrew screw marking in green -its crank bearing to look condition of crank.


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

ah ok ill try that as the green marking one you have is only one I can reach at
I cant reach the other pistons bolts

so once I take off the the 2 bolts I never worked on a diesel, is there a bearing or just 2 halfs ill have to do that sometime this week as its raining and snowling later today 

so if the piston isn't stuck does that mean maybe 3 other pistons are stuck or does that mean the crank shaft bearings are seized

thanks for help so far


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## owner21 (Nov 26, 2011)

Hi Look in that material http://www.circletrack.com/howto/1815_crankshaft_rod_bearing_install/. I hope its will be helpful


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

it helped a little I don't have some of those tools so lets just hope the shaft is ok and the 2 crankshaft bearings lol

as I working outside so no controlled environment there lol

and snow on its way today lol fun stuff

ill try to get that one piston bolts loose but if its loose but how can I turn engine to loose other pistons

but not there yet so lets hope not the worst


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

hi so today I got chance to work on tractor I got the one piston shaft unbolted and I got the crank shaft support unbolted the one piston bolt was very hard to turn off thought I was going to breake the bolt

and I can not push the piston up but I not sure how much pressure you gotta do to get it to move here the pics


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

oh and that bolt I thought I was going to break I noticed it was shorter then the other bolt and I was able to get 1 other cylinder bottom half of the puston rod bolts out but that first one I snapped the bolt she twisted off ugh


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## shona13 (Aug 12, 2011)

G'day comet424.
If you get someone to help you ,take the starter motor out,disconnect the battery first, you will see the ring gear inside when you take the starter motor out ,get your helper and using a big screwdriver lever the ring gear back and forth and you watching ALL of the bearings the one that is seized will most likely be the big end farthest away from the oil pump the others will move a little bit but the seized one will not move at all ,the oil pump pumps the oil into the crankshaft and the oil travels through the inside of the crankshaft so if the oil level is low and the oil pump loses pressure the farthest bearing will not get oil and the bearing will weld itself to the crankshaft, I have had this happen in a couple of engines and i have been able to undo the big end bearing,that is the one that connects to the piston,
undo the two bolts and gently tap the bearing cap this will loosen it of and when you get the cap of you will find that the bearing which is in two halves ,made of steel and sprayed with white metal ,this is what melts onto the crankshaft,push the connecting rod and piston up about one inch to get it out of the way then gently using a screwdriver peel the bearings of, you may be lucky and find that there is only one seized clean the white metal of the crank journal which is soft like solder,clean it of using emery cloth just be carefull you don,t want to damage the crankshaft then when that is done you can rotate the engine and check the other bearings.
All bearings can be replaced without taking the engine out, replace the big end bearings first make sure the small tabs that stick out are fitted into the cap and the connecting rod so that the little tads fit in properly.
To replace the main bearings remove the cap first with the bearing shell,then find a small self tapping screw with a cheese head ,turn the engine round till you can see the oil hole in the crankshaft and carefully put the self tapping screw in the oil hole so that the HEAD of the screw sticks out,slowly turn the engine by hand making sure the screw stays in there ( NOTE the crankshaft HAS TO BE TURNED IN THE DIRECITION SO THAT THE SMALL TAB COMES OUT FIRST) keep turning, the head of the screw will push the TOP main bearing round to the bottom and it will fall out when you put the new bearings in go the opposite way again make sure you put the bearings in the correct way so that the little tab fits in the recess in the engine block.

all the bearings will have a part number and the bearing size stamped on the back of them, they will also give the size ,example STD = standard journal + 10 = crankshaft has been ground to ten thousnds of an inch and so on, again make sure you buy the correct size bearings and a sump gasket.
Keep the oil topped up .
Regards Hutch.


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

ok I a little confused about the self taping screw etc

also those pics that's showing the last piston farthest from the ring gear id call that piston 1 so what you see in the pics is the farthest from the ring gear and I guess that's hot from looks of it? the piston 2 I was able to get the the cap off and it was covered in oil I didn't take pics of the rest yet as its raining today. but piston 3 which is above the oil pump it was covered in oil had to use a wooden chisel to get it apart
I wasn't able to get piston 3 and 4 off and I tried with wooden chisel to get number 4 to split I got the bolts off that but since its far up its awkward. 

and so youd say the 2 crank bearings be ok?? at either end?? as you mention to take the big one out or so

and there is not bearing on the 2 halfs I pulled the half off on 1 and 2 but there is no bearing I havented done a engine in years so bear with me,

and right now I have no friends to help all my friends that I know moved away or are all welfare bums and wouldn't lift a finger so im doing all this myself


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

so what can I do can I use a piece of wood on the other half of the piston shaft half that seems fused to the crankshaft maybe can I use a piece of wood and hammer it to see if it will budge up?? or what my options

im alone doing this


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## shona13 (Aug 12, 2011)

G'day comet 424.
i cannot understand what you mean try again.
Hutch.


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

well what you wrote I didn't understand "To replace the main bearings remove the cap first with the bearing shell,then find a small self tapping screw with a cheese head ,turn the engine round till you can see the oil hole in the crankshaft and carefully put the self tapping screw in the oil hole so that the HEAD of the screw sticks out,slowly turn the engine by hand making sure the screw stays in there ( NOTE the crankshaft HAS TO BE TURNED IN THE DIRECITION SO THAT THE SMALL TAB COMES OUT FIRST) keep turning, the head of the screw will push the TOP main bearing round to the bottom and it will fall out when you put the new bearings in go the opposite way again make sure you put the bearings in the correct way so that the little tab fits in the recess in the engine block.

all the bearings will have a part number and the bearing size stamped on the back of them, they will also give the size ,example STD = standard journal + 10 = crankshaft has been ground to ten thousnds of an inch and so on, again make sure you buy the correct size bearings and a sump gasket."

that part

also I said the fattest piston is what you see in the picture where its hot and i cant move ti by hand. i wanted to know if i put a piece of wood on it and hammer it to get it loose will it go?? and where are these bearings?? all that came off was the half part of the piston shaft, and i cant get 2 of the halfs off the one i used a chissle but couldtn get it to split. Also im by mself so i have to do this by myself no one to turnring gear if possible, so far its still tight. i wanna know if i can hit it with a hammer and a piece of wood to try to budge the farthest pishton shaft from the ring gear, as you seen in the pic there is not oil on it but the piston beside it has oil on it it ill have to take a pic later


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

ok I got my tractor in my shop and I even got the engine to turn a little with starter didn't wanna do to omuch since I got bolts out of 3 piston halfs so hopefully I can get it to turn with bolts back in and she was creaking scratching as it turned so who knows

my next question is what grade of bolt are in these??? since that one bolt broke inside the one piston arm, so how do I get it out do I heat the bolt and use an easy out or what?


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

ok i get the spacer is called the bearing??? well on the one it was stuck on the crank shaft well its groved and groved the crank shaft how bad is that???

if i oil it all and try to get it back together am i safe for winter or does crank shaft have to be repaired etc


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

ok i got it to turn over it was the last piston the spacer or i guess you call it the bearing kept it tight 
and the one above the pump they cups or bearing well they are groved too hell i sanded the one above the pump smoothed it out wasnt able to do the other one the farthest from the ring gear. 

but that one doesnt seem badly groved just the cup part

so ill try to get new cups and hopefully the one thats groved will fix itself?

but my question also is how tight do i tighten all these bolts? 
what grade of bolts are they as the one broke

and i gotta try to drill out the one thats above the oil pump and is there such thing as a long easy out for spots i cant get into?


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

ok im totally stuck 

with the bolt that broke off as was unscrewing it out of the piston arm i got a hole drilled into it finally and got my easy out in it but it wont loosen off as it was tight and broke off when i was unscrewing it i tried heating the bolt and outside with a propane torch but still wouldnt loosen

how do i get it out? and is there a tool that reverse a easy out so i can go into hole and screw it right though the other end


or what other options is there


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

can you tell me what grade of bolt is in this it has a 3 tics but also i think saiys 89 between the tics tractor place guessed its 8.5 grade

as i thinking of drilling a hole and threading it and pushing a bolt in and turning it through the other end hopefully
any ideas as it wont let me unscrew it through the front of it as thats how it broke off some how got stuck and sheared off 

or can i drill a hole then go to next drill bit and next and get close to the orgrinal thread and then re tap it with the orginal bolt and force the bits out

any ideas guys


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

well my mistake this bolt doesnt go right through i wasnt able to get it out i tried drilling it out how deep does the bolt go in its the upper part and i i going through drill bits i cant seem to drill it out how hard is it i damaged the ledge that that ring sits on so this frustrating as you cant get up there

i guess best is to take the head off and pull the piston out but since this tractor is greased over what do i need to all remove to get the head off?


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## shona13 (Aug 12, 2011)

G'day comet----.
I Reckon I have hit on a good idea and I think it may work in your case.
Go to your local bar and find someone who knows a bit about engines and get him full and real friendly ,when you go the next time do the same again ,dont let him buy any beer you buy and next time you meet this guy get him to come over and fix your stuff up, try that and let us know how you go ???.
Hutch.


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

i know eh so hard to drill upside down into the piston arm i dont wanna do the head this year ill try

total bs i tell ya


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## comet424 (Nov 21, 2009)

so never found anyone but I taking the head off

I did make a mistake I didn't know that the rockers are just adjustments I thought like a car u take them off but I find after u need a feeler gauge, but how do you set that later?? would all the valves be closed at one point to set this?
also
I removed all the top nuts the exhaust and the intake and removed the thermosat housing but the head doesn't slide up what am I missing what else do I need to remove I have a 262 repair book but it only shows perkings engine in there doesn't show the leylan 492 engine or the torq settings


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## oldtom (Oct 23, 2010)

comet424 said:


> well what you wrote I didn't understand "To replace the main bearings remove the cap first with the bearing shell,then find a small self tapping screw with a cheese head ,turn the engine round till you can see the oil hole in the crankshaft and carefully put the self tapping screw in the oil hole so that the HEAD of the screw sticks out,slowly turn the engine by hand making sure the screw stays in there ( NOTE the crankshaft HAS TO BE TURNED IN THE DIRECITION SO THAT THE SMALL TAB COMES OUT FIRST) keep turning, the head of the screw will push the TOP main bearing round to the bottom and it will fall out when you put the new bearings in go the opposite way again make sure you put the bearings in the correct way so that the little tab fits in the recess in the engine block.
> 
> all the bearings will have a part number and the bearing size stamped on the back of them, they will also give the size ,example STD = standard journal + 10 = crankshaft has been ground to ten thousnds of an inch and so on, again make sure you buy the correct size bearings and a sump gasket."
> 
> ...


comet 424 you can use a piece of wood like a hammer handle to try and tap up the pistons one at a time, place said hammer handle under piston on the bosses where the pin goes though conrod, put some soft hose over the big end cap boltsto protectcranshaft. using club hammer 4lbs tap up and piston should move if not locked up remove that oilpump for better access


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## musicman9016 (Oct 20, 2014)

Firstly, start by removing the balancers. 
Then partially undo all the big end and crank nuts. (Only a few mm)
Try and turn the engine over with a socket and breaker bar on the main belt pulley. 
From memory I think you need to remove the tin work that the power steering hoses go through....maybe
If it turns then do the nuts up one housing at a time until it stops turning. This could mean completely pulling the engine down to get the crank out to get it shaved and slightly over-sized bearings put in (worst case scenario) You might be able to get away with just replacing the bearings.
If it doesn't turn then take the head off and check for hydraulic lock due to water/oil/fluid in any of the bores.

If you didn't have any oil in it and left it running dry for a while I'd be going with the worst case scenario which is also what happened with my 255 resulting in a complete rebuild.


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