# Won't start after it is warmed up.



## flipper (May 8, 2009)

I have a 10 year old Yardman 20hp Koler in it. It starts up right away, no hesitation what-so-evere. The problem is; when it warms completey up and I shut it off. It will not start for at least 4-5 hrs. Give it that much time to cool down and it fires right up again. I have cleaned the carb opened up the fuel line to checked for vapor lock. What's going oin?


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## HYDROGUARDIAN16 (Feb 14, 2007)

Could be the coil, You should check for spark after you shut it off. Remove the spark plug and ground the plug against the block and have someone crank the engine. Check for spark First, report back here and tell me what you find.

Ben


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## SleazyRider (Jun 15, 2010)

I have the same problem, only when mine is thoroughly warned up and won't start, I still have spark. I'm thinking fuel evaporation, creating air in the fuel line, due to heat. 

Bob


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

An old remedy I've seen for vapor lock was to place wooden clothes pins on the line to prevent vapor lock. Just a small amount of them on the fuel line seems to do the trick, though I have no idea how the heck you explain that one! The remedy works for both rigid and rubber lines.


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## SleazyRider (Jun 15, 2010)

Tractor Beam, I heard of that way back when. I think the clothespins are supposed to act as "heat sinks" and for some unknown reason, they did seem to work, but, not consistently. The only way to eliminate vapor lock is with an electric fuel pump.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Id try using some water pipe insulation ( usually a black foam) around the gas line- my big twin opposed motors come from the factory with that stuff around the fuel lines where it threads around the motor.


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## mario (Aug 26, 2010)

*Mtd 16/44*

hi to all, first have to let you know im french from quebec state, so pls dont be to angry for my mistakes in words, and this link maybe my answers
i got this mtd 16/44 from my wife succession, got it at $175.00, it's a 1987 or 88
i was there when her father bought it, it pass only 1 winter outside, balance in a garage, he paid $3000.00 + $1000.00 for the snowblower that goes up front,
that i did not try to put on yet, because i also got the snowblower that he had
aside, the questions for the snowblower will come later i guess, 
the mtd model is: 137697500 serie 368403,
first i change the battery that i found at wal-mart in williamsburg in virginia on my 
vacations, at $25.00, was happy here it's $60.00, got back put it on, did not start,
jumped all the switch one by one, to test, found one that was bad, change it,
then starts, then found the diagrams on the web, looking and studying,
here is a list of what i have change:
air filter: that was black
fuel filter: that was original
deck switch
1 ball joint
hex bolt on the front axle
battery cover
battery rod
throttle cable
rear belt
front belt
reverse switch
battery terminal
cutter pins, many
had weld the deck lever
change oil to syntetic
change gaz
steering bolt
frame bolts
seat switch
reverse switch
ignition switch

now im up close to $200.00 spend on it,
im having a lot problems finding info for this tractor,
if any of you have info it will be very appreciated,
question,
the small wire hook to the frame on the left side near the clutch, does it goes under or on top of the clutch rod, 
speed ajustement, how do you fix it,
brake ajustement,
having a hard time to put it in revese,
the hex bolt to the left is in plastic, is it possible to get one in metal,
all parts i have change is original, i want to keep it like that, i dont think i have to spend a lot more on it, for this year, except for ajustement
if somebody have info on the 3 blades on the deck + belts will be appreciated,
can't find the number for replacement,

any info will be very appreciated, thanks in advance to any answer
new on a riding mower, in 2010


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Im not sure about a couple of your questions- but ill answer the ones that i do know.

Speed adjustment: theres a couple of adjustable rods to the brake/clutch pedal you can adjust- im assuming it has a variable pulley just in front of where you sit ( where the two belts hook to) - the variable pulley is pretty similar to a snowmobile clutch- depending where the belt rides on the pulley, the faster or slower it goes- further in the pulley it should speed up- further out , it slows down. Alot can also ride on the variable pulley itself- they have a tendency to freeze up with corrosion- they can be broken loose tho with some persuasion.

Brakes: this can also add to the slow issue. Usually this is also a common issue- aluminum brake caliper with steel pins- with disimilar metals corrode very easy and lock up. Its best to remove the caliper ( on the trans on the right side) two bolts and the nut holding the actuator arm on ( spray the bolts with PB blaster or rust buster- these also will corrode and break if not careful) - MTD's are notorious for thier wheels seizing on as well - you might not be able to remove it- itll make it easier to get to the caliper.

Once the caliper is off, i set it on solid ground or on a solid bench and gently tap on the metal pins ( to each side of the stud in the center) till they tap out- then i sand the pins and clean the holes on the caliper, use a dab of never seize and reassemble it - also use a dab of never seize on the bolts into the trans case.

Reverse issue: sometimes debris gets onto the shifter pin ( that goes in and out of the case) theres a detent ball inside the case that regulates where the pin stops. a good coat of rust buster should work- work it back and forth- if it doesnt want to, then you might need to crack open the transmission and investigate further. Sometimes water gets inside and will rust the pieces. MTD doesnt put a whole lot of bennonite grease in their transaxles anyway- its possible.

Im not sure about those other issues.


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## briggs (Sep 2, 2010)

to me it sounds like a vapor lock check the vent in the fuel cap


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