# Ford 4000 extra space/position in key switch?



## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Hello all.

I am back with another weird problem.

Ford 4000 diesel, key switch seems to have a extra space/position for the key to turn and cant find out what it is for, See attachment. I noticed it for a while but didnt think about it till I wanted to use the cold start function and noticed the heat position was not working.

I found the wire for the heater was wired to a constant 12v on the key switch but every thing else is wired correctly but the switch has an extra position.

It is a stock key switch made in England or I should say it is marked UK.

I have read somewhere that some other model tractors have a switch where they turn 1 position right for auxiliary power. 
position 
2 for run and all lights and position 
3 for start.

Left position 
1 for heat. 
position 
2 for heat/start. 
But cant find where I read it or what it was for. 

If no one can help me I will either have to replace the switch, or and I might do this any ways to squash my curiosity and remove it and meter out all of the connections in each switch position. 

I might even rewire the whole tractor since I have found a rusted and broken terminal/wire under the dash by the light switch and not sure what it is for. 
Also there is a wire(not sure of color) up front that is not connected to any thing and not sure what it is for. 
The wires are dry, hard, faded, rusted, and some are painted over with ford blue.

Dose any one know where I could get wires with the same/stock stripping? 

I know there are some already wire sets I could purchase but if I do my own I get to learn the wiring of the tractor and make any changes that i may need, like a cig lighter for 12volt accessories or trailer light connection. 

Any other ideas? 

I'm done carrying on, so Thanks again.
OMF.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy OMF,

On my tractor, that position/terminal is not there. You must have an aftermarket keyswitch (i.e., one switch fits many different tractors). You do not want to run any high power lights through the keyswitch, as the current draw will shorten the life of the switch.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Sixbales,

It looks exactly like the one the service manual has and the prongs are the same. The only marking I can find and make out is "UK".

I do have a empty space on the dash for a horn that I was thanking on putting some kind of switch for auxiliary( trailer lights or a power connection)(fused connection). 

Have you ever run the need for a horn on your tractor? 
I wont be on the road except on a rare occasion. 

Do you know how hard it would be to rewire it?
Have you ever rewire one?
Any ideas on where I might get the same color wires if i decide to rewire it?


Thank you,

Sixbales you are allways helping me/us A very Big thank you to you. eace::elephant:


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

I rewired everything on my tractor and replaced the ignition switch. 50 year old wires, harnesses, connections, etc. all corrode and need to be replaced. When you replace it you know what goes where and what switch on your ignition does what. Most likely it was already rewired at least once. 
You need 3 hot wires. One large one to starter, one to your alternator, and one to your ignition switch. You need two negative wires, one large one to your starter or metal ground and one to your proofmeter to ground it for warning lights and illumination lights for the proofmeter. 
The ignition switch supplies hot to your starter, proofmeter, heater, lights and horn. I used a second ignition switch for my heater so it only stayed on while I turned it like a starter and turns off when I let go. Wiring these old tractors are simple


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

JGPenfield, before you changed out to a second switch for your heater how did the heat start position on the factory switch work before you had to change it? When you turned the switch 2 positions counter clockwise to heat/start would it turn the starter on? Mine dose occasionally when it fells like it.


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

Oldmanfarmer, My tractor was already rewired. The heater wire was not connected to the ignition switch. The ignition switch looked corroded so I replaced it. So I don't know how the original switch worked. If you turn it counter clockwise and it starts, that is wrong and might be wired incorrectly.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

JGPenfield, The manual says:
1 position counter clockwise heats, 
2 position counter clockwise Heats/and Starts.
1 position clockwise Aux
2 positions clockwise Run/Start


Just like the attachment except no Blank one.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy OMF,

It could be that mid way in the spring-loaded position CW you have a heat position as well. You have to hold the key in this midway position to heat the thermostart. Check the empty terminal for heat voltage midway thru the spring loaded start position. My tractor has this feature, but it doesn't have any CCW positions.


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