# What to clean a tractor with??



## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Well, im my rebuild of my 444, I am uncovering a TON of crud. Oil, sludge, grass, etc. What kind of cleaner do you all use to clean the real nasty stuff? Not to concerend about the paint. What is there is already pretty fadded, or chipped, just want to get the crud out. I don't have a pressure washer, so what ever has to work with a hose. Any tips for me??


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Ingersoll444 _
> *Well, im my rebuild of my 444, I am uncovering a TON of crud. Oil, sludge, grass, etc. What kind of cleaner do you all use to clean the real nasty stuff? Not to concerend about the paint. What is there is already pretty fadded, or chipped, just want to get the crud out. I don't have a pressure washer, so what ever has to work with a hose. Any tips for me?? *


Mineral spirits (paint thinner) and an old stiff bristled paint brush will do wonders.


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*Paul*

Maybe you could get the wife to do the clean up for you. I know mine would.


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## guest (Sep 16, 2003)

the simple green stuff works ok or i use the castrol simple green ripoff they sell at walmart except its purple. It works pretty well for breaking down grease and stuff..


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## archyb2 (Sep 25, 2003)

I'd scrape off the worst then spray it with "GUNK" (carb cleaner) let that set for 2 or 3 hrs. it washes off with a garden hose
Archie


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## Ed_GT5000 (Sep 30, 2003)

I also vote for Simple Green. Good stuff I use it at work and at home a lot. It will discolor paint if used full strength. but is non toxic and nonflamable.


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## tisenberg (Sep 20, 2003)

Foam Bright... or something like that. You spray it on the engine, it foams up and it kills off gunk great. I like to do it when the engine is warm... but not hot.

There is another product... power foam... or something like that, you spray into the intake, another nice product.

I'm sure someone will correct me on the real name of Foam Bright. It's in a blue can with white writing and they sell it at automotive stores and it is intended to clean the outside components of engines.


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## wheely_boy (Sep 16, 2003)

My vote goes for Simple Green. It does a good job cutting through grease and you don't have to worry about environmental issues. It is not oil based.


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*brake clean*

$1.49 a can and it moves grease.


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

I use the same stuff that John uses. That purple stuff is pretty good at getting down to the clean stuff quick.

Elbow grease don't hurt much either.


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## guest (Sep 16, 2003)

also i used the 'orange scented' Gunk engine cleaner. i used that over the traditional because the orange one did not say it would destroy the paint if it got on it... that and the Castrol simple purple stuff worked well for me.


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## johnbron (Sep 17, 2003)

:bull: 

You guys are wasting your money on that stuff you are buying. It seems like I am almost daily cleaning parts and I have tried all the brands mentioned above with pissed off results. One day I was at the dollar store and seen "Oven-Cleaner" on the shelf and thought HMMmm!!, Wonder how this would remove grease for paint prep?, I have never used anything else since. It does an excellent job and its cheaper than the so-called grease cleaners. Of course there is no short cuts on 1/2" thick dirt/grease buildup. You still have to scrape the loose gunk off prior to spraying cleaner on. Spray oven cleaner on and let sit for 5-to-15 minutes and then hose off and its ready to paint when dry.


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

The stuff were recomending is strictly for cleanup. We are not prepping for repaint in most cases. As far as oven cleaner for pre-paint, that will lead to a nasty case of fisheye on you paint if painting for looks. 

I would use PPG DX330 or DX394 for wax and grease remover. Does a great job and is paintable once finish is cleaned and dried


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## johnbron (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by leolav _
> *The stuff were recomending is strictly for cleanup. We are not prepping for repaint in most cases. As far as oven cleaner for pre-paint, that will lead to a nasty case of fisheye on you paint if painting for looks.
> 
> I would use PPG DX330 or DX394 for wax and grease remover. Does a great job and is paintable once finish is cleaned and dried *


I just took it for grantit that Paul would be repainting after all the work he has put in it as he mentioned that he was not worried about harming the paint while cleaning.

I just painted my Cub after cleaning with oven-off and I sure dont see any fish-eyes swimming around in my paint job or any of the other paint jobs I have done after being de-greased with oven-cleaner.


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

What type of paint are you using? Are you also spraying clear?

You must be doing a heck of a cleaning job to get the oven cleaner off. That has a heavy solvent base that breaks down the grease. DX394 is water based and works super fast. Spray on, wipe off. It is pricey, but it is the best i've seen out there. I don't doubt your paint came out fine, but the chance of fisheye and other adhesion issues is greater when using an oven cleaner vs grease and wax remover. 

Also, if you have any silicon based products (armor all, etc) and get that on the paint, you need a high alcohol based cleaner to get that off. Oven cleaner won't touch that. 

Just adding my $.02.

LL


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## johnbron (Sep 17, 2003)

:skull: Well Leo you got my curiousity up thinking solvents would not be a tasty residue in an oven so I checked the ingredients on oven cleaner can and I see no mention of solvents on can. It only mentions (Danger) Contains sodium hydroxide->(Lye). I use it because it is cheap and easy to apply and hose off. Burns the hell out of your nose though if you aren`t careful.


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## wheely_boy (Sep 16, 2003)

Try this. Find your wifes finest linens, the ones you use at Thanksgiving dinner, and use them to wipe the dirt off of the offending item. After you do this, give them back to your wife for cleaning. This method is guaranteed to end ALL of your problems.


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

I believe that the propelants are what cause the issues.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

The nice thing about mineral spirits (it's the base solvent in parts cleaning solutions) is that you can 1/2 fill a drain pan and wash your parts off. Let the solids settle and pour off the top solvent into another drain pan and reuse. You can do this over and over and over. When done put the usable solvent back into a suitable container and reuse on a future project.


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

Most people don't realize that alot of solvents evaporate very quickly. Another thing to remember when prepping for paint is to use lint free (super clean) clothes. This will prevent dust "boogers" from causing issues when you paint.


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

*Tack rag*

I thought thats what a tack rag was for to get the dust off before you paint.:hello: 
Jody


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## Ed_GT5000 (Sep 30, 2003)

Speaking of tack rags, I sent the wife to get a few of them last weekend for hardwood floors I am finishing. She came back with these "blue rags" that said tack cloth on the packs. What garbage they are! They just push around the dust and pick up nothing...... Oh well she did not know better.


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

They have these new wipes on the market that make tack rags seem like a thing of the past. They are called micro fiber wipes and are much better than tack cloth. The fibers are shaped like flowers and trap dust. Best part about them is that they are reusable!

I bought about 50 of them and they work awesome.


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

*I agree with Argee and johnbron*

I have used mineral spirits and oven cleaner and they both work good also i was always taught to wipe it down with wax and grease remover before painting. Because even the oils in your fingers will make the paint fisheye so alway wipe it down with wax and grease remover before you paint. So i guess i agree with leolav too.:thumbsup: 
Jody


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## johnbron (Sep 17, 2003)

:globesnow 

When I am working with bare metal I wash my hands good and then spray and wipe the part with el-cheapo Wal-Mart carb cleaner and get good results. 


If I am painting fairly new galvanized metal I wipe it good with vinegar first to make the primer/paint adhere.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

Another good product used to remove oils for painting is denatured alcohol.


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

Well I am pretty frugal (read cheap) when it comes to stuff like this, and all I have ever usually used is a very strong mix of Tide laundry soap and hot water. I scrape the worst stuff off and then hit it with Tide and a stiff brush. Cuts most everything. I do have a pressure washer, but am too cheap to buy the liquid agents thats injected iinto the washer itself, and use a strong mix of Tide with it as well. Now adays TIDE works great with cold water also.


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## PeteNM (Sep 18, 2003)

For a repaint job I guess I'm with johnbron. Like he said you still have to scrape the really bad stuff off. I've been using oven cleaner for years and never had any problems with it. In fact it's faster than sandblasting for thick oily areas. I still do the standard cleanup before painting.


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## Michael (Sep 16, 2003)

Hey Argee, and everyone else, When using denatured alcohol use protective gloves. denatured uses as a part of its mix 2-4 percent MEK (metyl ethyl ketone) MEK is a known to cause kidney and liver problem up to and including cancers. It can also lead to really dry skin and cracking the skin. Not trying to be a alarmist just be informed and it should state on the container where you can get a material safety data sheet. I have used denatured for years in the aircraft field and it is safer then a lot of the chemicals we use but be aware of the problems with them. For something that really gets the gunk off quick but is really bad it has to be MEK pure but you have to use a respirator and a extremely well ventulated area with NO ignition sources anywhere within a 100 feet of it.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

Michael,

Thanks for the "heads up" on MEK in denatured alcohol. Never gave it much thought until now. I guess you think a product is safe when you can handily buy it off a shelf.


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## Michael (Sep 16, 2003)

Thanks for the reply Argee, I just want folks to be safe when using any chemical. Most folks do not know what Denatured Alcohol (DNA) has in it, even folks who use it on a daily basis. I for the last 3 years have been running the safety seminars for new employees to the area I work in. I always pull all the MSDS for chemicals used in our area and found that in DNA. Not a lot of MEK in it but thats what makes it such a great cleaner. Here's another interesting thing about MEK, How long from just smelling MEK before it can be detected on your breath? 3 seconds is all. That is why I recommend a respirator when using it. Most folks never realize that they are personally responsible for safety at home.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Thanks guys for all the help.

I do plan to scrape the REAL heavy stuff off, and I also dug out a few cans of foaming engine cleaner I had packed away in boxes. [some times I think I will NEVER be unpacked]

Also I am planing on cleaning it more, if it comes down to painting. Mostly just want to get the REAL nasty stuff off now.


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## Cliff (Nov 30, 2003)

Paul 


Could load it up in the back of a small trailer and go to one of those quarter car washes. 

Most of them have an engine cleaning selection. And you could clean it there and leave and not have a mess at home. 

I have a power washer at the farm. However anytime I am close to car wash, with the tractor on a trailer. I will stop by and give it a good cleaning. 

The cycles I use are 

Engine foam

soap 

Engine foam 

soap 

engine foam 

soap 

and then go to wax and let the wax renise off the soap.


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Welcome Cliff that a very good idea you can leave the mess there and not worry about it.:thumbsup: 
Jody


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Good idea Cliff. I used to do that all the time with cars I was swapping motors into. It has been so long I had forgot about it.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Ingersoll444 _
> *Good idea Cliff. I used to do that all the time with cars I was swapping motors into. It has been so long I had forgot about it. *


Paul,

Don't tell me you've become afflicted with the dreaded *C R S* I thought that only happened to us old farts.................Now what was I talking about............:dazed:


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## leolav (Sep 16, 2003)

I do that with my boat after I take it out on the lake. Especially if the lake has alot of scum and lilys.

Does a nice job and it keeps the boat looking like new.


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