# Ford 3500 s/n decoding and two questions



## NateOakes (Nov 13, 2016)

I recently bought a Ford 3500 backhoe. I have compared the stamped nos to various charts I have found online, not all of the numbers are cross referenced.
What I have on the tractor are:
350011G
C144190
F246

The best I can come up with is: 
First line: It is a 3500, industrial, diesel with no PTO. The G doesn't match anything I've found but the other is correct.

Second line: The unit was built in the USA, s/n 144190, probably built in 1965 (I was told it was an early 70s) The year isn't critical to me except for configurations/parts.

The F246 I can't decode at all. Nothing makes sense with what I've found online.

Anyone able to make sense of these numbers?

The two questions. 
1. I haven't found the thermostatic heater (used for cold temp start, should be in the intake manifold) Is this beneath the battery tray?
2. I have looked at pix and tried to locate the 'extra fuel' button used for cold starting. All I can find on the hp pump is that in the center of a control valve there is a pin that does have an in and out position. The pix I have are not clear on this, it this the extra fuel button?


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

I have a1970 3400 industrial with a 3 cylinder diesel. I forget what the exact terms are but the glow plug is in the intake manifold and Hase a fuel line that comes from the CAV pump to the glow plug. Also has one wire from switch relay . Some are cancelled out and push button instead. It is on the inside between the head and the intake just before the number 3 intake( at front of engine so yes beneath the battery tray). If you have the CAV pump (distributor pump) it will not have the extra fuel button. You will have to identify which fuel pump you have, in-line or distributor pump. Good luck.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Here are a couple pix of a CAV pump . Don't know how to rotate the last pic sorry.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Here is a few paragraphs from my owners manual. Hope you can expand and read.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Nate, welcome to the tractor forum.

Here's my translation of your tractor's numbers:

Model 350011G = Ford model 3500, diesel engine, no PTO, 4x4 manual reversing transmission.

MFG date F246 = June 24 1966. 

Serial number C144190 corresponds to mid year manufacture 1966.


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

The exact date of manufacture is important in buying parts. Some parts are different depending on the month. 
The C tells you what location it was built and is used for electrical parts and configuration.


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## NateOakes (Nov 13, 2016)

*1966 Ford 3500 backhoe injector pump*

thanks for the help with the transmission code, the letter 'G' wasn't on any of the cross-references I have found.

I have attached a pic of the injector fuel pump. The control cable is for engine shut-down, shuts off the fuel. The only 'button' on this that I've found is what the shut down control rotates around.

I am assuming that this is the extra fuel control used for cold weather starting, correct or not?

I really can't believe the workmanship on repairs to this hoe. Loose connections and hardware all over. Battery was very low on water, and I find more every time I look at it.
Generator connections fell off! I brushed against them and they came off, no tension at all. Have to figure out which connection is which. I would change it over to alternator but if this still works I'll keep it so I have a tach reading.

My next step is to degrease the engine, check all of the fuel connections, change the flexible fuel lines and change the battery terminals.


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

I have a Ford 3000 diesel built ion 1967. These are my pics. The fuel excess button is connected to the fuel shut off cable. Mine has a boot and yours does not. The fuel shut off has to pushed in or it wont lock in position. It is used for cold starts.
I included the glo plug or heater pics. The heater Is located at the front of the intake manifold. It has an electrical wire and a fuel line connected to it. Make sure there is power going to the heater when you turn it on and that it is not burned out. It is an easy and inexpensive fix if it is burned out. Just unscrew it and replace it and re attach the wire and fuel line.
I had to rewire the entire tractor and you will probably have to do the same based on your description.
If the heater works you will see smoke as it heats and you may hear fuel flowing, may hear it ignite and on occasion I see oil shooting up into the air inlet from the oil bath air filter when it heats up and expands air in the intake manifold. 
Your 3500 might have an ether canister for cold starts, but my 300 did not come with that.


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## NateOakes (Nov 13, 2016)

JGPenfield, thanks for the pics.
I don't recall seeing the thermostart in the intake manifold where your pic shows it. Then again I wasn't able to realize that the two wires to the generator have different size terminals so I couldn't mix them up. Amazing what you learn when you take the time to actually look the situation over.

Yes, the wires are brittle and the terminals have lost their spring. The tach feed on the rear of the generator is loose so I don't even know if it will work if the generator puts out. I am not sure if I want to try to save the OEM charging system or change it to an alternator system. I do want a tach but I don't want to pay the price for an alternator with that feature. 
I have the ability to rewire the tractor - just a pain. Probably use either teflon or X-linked polyolefin.

While I have your ear, if you don't mind: The unit is hard to start (no surprise) I am wondering if the pump is putting out enough pressure or if the injectors are tired, or both. I do have access to gauges but they are not meant for oil, they are what I consider air/steam/gas pressure gauges. Are these also usable for measuring the fuel pressure? 
I can have the injectors tested at a local shop. 

One of the first things I want to get done now that I've looked it over closer is changing the hydraulic lines that are low on the reservoir. They look like they are about to fail and I would lose the entire volume of fluid. 
Are there any parts houses I can find parts for this unit? drag link, hoses, etc. Or would a Ford/New Holland dealer be the place to start?


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

There are many parts available on eBay just remember that you have a post 1965 Ford. This is important, pre 65 and post 65 parts are different. For the TAC I just ordered the end drive on the Gen for 25$ , the tac cable 15$ and dash gauge for I believe 125$. The hour meter is mechanical. I would stick with the Gen if it works properly. Diesel engines don't require power to run the Gen only charges the battery and power the accessories. I changed my lights to LED to minimize the load and put the biggest battery I could fit under the hood. The 8 lights on top of the cab was my biggest drain. Good luck


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

Nate, 
Diesels are always hard to start if they are cold. In the summer mine starts right up. Just a little cool weather in the fall and it is much harder. 
Do basic maintenance such as adjusting valve lash cam and changing the fuel filters. You can get new injectors from Yesterdays tractor for about $50 a piece. Make sure you change the oil in the fuel injector pump and clean the air filter. 
For parts, the New Holland dealer is the most expensive place to go. Stay away unless you need an emergency part that day. A better parts place is Messicks. They have parts diagram, tell you upfront the price and if they have any in stock. But they too are expensive because they sell OEM parts from New Holland. So I will find the part number and google it to see if there is a used part or after market part that will be much less expensive. The places I have ordered parts from were Tractor Joe, Yesterdays tractor, Steiner tractor and Ebay.


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

The other things you need are an Owners manual and a service manual. These are available as reprints. Owners manual is about $25 and service manual is about$75. Well worth the money if you are doing your own maintenance and service.


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## NateOakes (Nov 13, 2016)

Thanks again for the information.
I do have the manuals for the tractor, loader and hoe. Also have a parts book. 
This project will probably come to an early halt as I don't have any indoor slot this will fit into. Being in upstate NY the weather will eventually turn to where I won't work on it outside. 

I'll make sure the battery stays charged and check the water for proper antifreeze. It did start hard when I looked at it, temp was probably 40s/50s. The former owner used ether which I don't like to use on a diesel. He said the thermostart didn't work all that great. I don't know if he didn't know how to properly use it or if there is an issue with the thermostart, another mystery to be solved.

I bought it to pull some stumps out and clean up some of my land. Also to dig out for a parking area and make room for a larger garage. I have no doubts it can do all of that even in the condition it is in. I want to avoid hoses breaking and losing the hydraulic fluid, the hoses from the filter to the hydraulic pump look real bad, I don't trust them at all. The high pressure line on the right side of the tractor has been changed to a rubber line on this tractor. It is worn down to the metal mesh, I don't trust that one either. Thinking about using a piece of hard pipe to run the length of the tractor - have to add clamps to support it. Not sure if it is economically worthwhile or just changing the rubber hose would be less expensive.

Is there an easy way to tell if the rear tires are loaded? The previous owner didn't know.


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

To tell if tires are loaded rotate tires till valve stem is on bottom and add air. If loaded with water you will hear bubbling.


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## Rigal53 (Sep 13, 2021)

I also have a ford 3500 TLB. Any chance you can take a picture of area where the serial number is ? Ive looked everywhere. None under hood where battery is. And new holland dealer wasnt helpful. Thanks in advance.


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## NateOakes (Nov 13, 2016)

Rigal53, I didn't mean to take so long to get back to you. I am not sure where the information was on the tractor. I have looked in all of the normal places but couldn't find a plate or other tag. This confuses me as I have the s/n of the tractor and other numbers and they came from somewhere, I know I didn't make them up.
FWIW, on the bottom of the block on the side there is a number which from what I've read contains the original configuration. I've never used this no. it appears to be just above the oil pan in the block.
You can search online for how to decode this. I found it once but didn't record mine and didn't think I'd need it so I didn't make note of the site.


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