# 52 8n won't fire



## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

I've had it a few years. Ran very well when I bought it. After sitting all winter it didn't want to start. I ended up putting a new distributor cap on it and that solved the problem. It sat again this winter and doesn't want to start yet again. I've replaced the ignition coil, and the plugs and wires. It is getting juice to the coil but it will not even attempt to fire. It just cranks with no fire. 

One other thing. Last year I replaced the battery and alternator. The battery was dead when I first tried to start it so I am using my truck to try and jump it but it still acts like it's struggling to turn over. Like somehow it's not getting enough juice from a 1 ton diesel with 2 batteries.

Any thoughts or suggestions on where to look next would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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## Ford5610II (Jun 11, 2020)

1. I’d say to Start by charging your battery so it will turn over on its own. Don't forget to clean your battery terminals. There have been a lot of new parts bought to solve a problem that 2 minutes with a pen knife can solve.
2. See if you have spark at the plugs. If not, you may have a bad coil or need to adjust the points, or need to clean or replace the plugs. Or you may need to clean the contact points inside the distributor cap. If you're not sure about this, I can explain further.
3. If you have spark, then check to make sure you're getting gas to and through the carb. Starting fluid can be a polarized topic, but if you spray a little in the air inlet and the tractor fires on it, then you aren't getting gas thru the carb.

Does your tractor have a key or on/off switch? Is it in the correct position?


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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

The battery does not seem to want to charge. Before buying another new battery decided to bypass the battery and use my truck because I suspect that the battery is not the primary issue. There is no spark going to the plugs as far as the old screw driver test is showing me. There is juice to the brand new coil and there is juice going to the inner parts of the distributor. The distributor cap is new as of last spring and shows no sign off corrosion or contamination. I am not familiar with these points that you say may need attention. It does have a switch for the ignition and neither way has an effect. Nor does bypassing it.


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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

Another thing, the coil is getting so hot that I can't touch it. I'm sure that's not right.


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## Ford5610II (Jun 11, 2020)

The points are the pieces that separate and cause the power surge that makes the spark. The points need to be clean of corrosion, and smooth. And they need to be set with a feeler gauge to the correct distance. Also, there is a smaller condenser attached to the points. Might want to try swapping that with one on another tractor to see if its bad. The other item, without a picture, is how dirty is your distributor? Any grit or rust or stray wires can cause the spark to short out to the tractor, instead of to the plugs. Google "Ford 8n Points setting" for some videos,


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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

Is this the thing that needs to be gapped properly? If so in its current position it is the right gap but I cannot tell where is TDC for lack of better reference.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

That is the cam rider for the points. You turn the engine by hand to get the cam rider on the peak of the lobe. Then your check the point gap.


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

No the gap should be on the far end from the pivot pin. On the far end of the movable portion of the points is a contact,
there will be another stationary contact. When the lobes of the distributer are rotating the fiber wiper on the movable portion of the points will be riding on the shaft as a high point pushs on the moveable portion the points will separate that gap is the one you are looking for. With the wiper on a high point the gap is set by moving the fixed point to establish the proper gap.

As far as just using jumper cables instead of a battery very often jumper cables have very small wire buried in lots of plastic.
They will not conduct enough current to crank an engine over good and still have the voltage available for an ignition system.


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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

LouNY said:


> No the gap should be on the far end from the pivot pin. On the far end of the movable portion of the points is a contact,
> there will be another stationary contact. When the lobes of the distributer are rotating the fiber wiper on the movable portion of the points will be riding on the shaft as a high point pushs on the moveable portion the points will separate that gap is the one you are looking for. With the wiper on a high point the gap is set by moving the fixed point to establish the proper gap.
> 
> As far as just using jumper cables instead of a battery very often jumper cables have very small wire buried in lots of plastic.
> They will not conduct enough current to crank an engine over good and still have the voltage available for an ignition system.





LouNY said:


> No the gap should be on the far end from the pivot pin. On the far end of the movable portion of the points is a contact,
> there will be another stationary contact. When the lobes of the distributer are rotating the fiber wiper on the movable portion of the points will be riding on the shaft as a high point pushs on the moveable portion the points will separate that gap is the one you are looking for. With the wiper on a high point the gap is set by moving the fixed point to establish the proper gap.
> 
> As far as just using jumper cables instead of a battery very often jumper cables have very small wire buried in lots of plastic.
> They will not conduct enough current to crank an engine over good and still have the voltage available for an ignition system.


I'll have to look at it tomorrow. I have no frame of reference for anything you are saying. I'll try and put together what you are saying with what I see happening. Thanks.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Far as starting fluid (either) goes. It's ok for a gas engine but not for a diesel and especially not for a diesel with glow plugs.


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## Ford5610II (Jun 11, 2020)




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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

SidecarFlip said:


> Far as starting fluid (either) goes. It's ok for a gas engine but not for a diesel and especially not for a diesel with glow plugs.


There is no spark to the plug so no amount of starter fluid is getting me anywhere. Lol


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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

Ford5610II said:


>


This gives me an idea, assuming this all applies for a side mounted one as well. I wish he actually showed himself doing the adjustments. That would have been more helpful than just showing a before and after shot but it gets me in the ballpark. Thanks


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Any chewed wiring on the tractor? Poor grounding or ground that shouldn't be, could be giving you issues. The condesor is the aluminum looking capsule, a bit smaller than your thumb.... may need changing.
You can get a complete tune up kit for your tractor with the proper copper core spark plug wires.


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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

Cleaned the points and it started firing. It was sputtering but running for a few seconds. After about 5 tries it almost stayed running and then immediately after that it quit firing altogether again. Should I spring for the rebuild kit at this point?


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## Ford5610II (Jun 11, 2020)

That is great news. I would replace the points, you just verified that the condenser, coil, and distributor are working. It still sounds like there might be grounding out issue as mentioned by PogoBill above. Or maybe a some fuel or carb issues?


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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

Ford5610II said:


> That is great news. I would replace the points, you just verified that the condenser, coil, and distributor are working. It still sounds like there might be grounding out issue as mentioned by PogoBill above. Or maybe a some fuel or carb issues?


I can't find anything that stands out as a potential grounding issue. I'm thinking it's a fuel delivery issue.


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## Ford5610II (Jun 11, 2020)

The valve and sediment bowl under the gas tank is easy to check, but harder to fix if there is crud in the tank. Next,
my NAA has a screen at the end of the fuel line inside the carburetor. IF these are both good, then the float may be stuck, either up or down. At this point, I'd order a carb rebuild kit. You'll likely wreck the gasket checking the float. The video below may be interesting:


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## festuswalker (10 mo ago)

Ford5610II said:


> The valve and sediment bowl under the gas tank is easy to check, but harder to fix if there is crud in the tank. Next,
> my NAA has a screen at the end of the fuel line inside the carburetor. IF these are both good, then the float may be stuck, either up or down. At this point, I'd order a carb rebuild kit. You'll likely wreck the gasket checking the float. The video below may be interesting:


I really appreciate everything. Points are ordered. Once I have a consistent spark I can track down the fuel issue. If there even is one. I'm hoping it was sputtering from the faulty points alone. Thanks


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

How old is your gas? Are you using regular gas... E85 for instance?


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