# MF-135, won't turn over



## stevewel (May 26, 2012)

Alright, I have a 1970 MF-135, runs well, had it for just over a year. Battery stopped holding charge this winter, so a week ago, I finally got a new battery, replaced the battery, started up just fine. Ran it for about an hour, ran well, shut it off out in the field, went to re-start and NOTHING. I replaced the old battery cables, thinking there might be some corrosion, still NOTHING. When I say nothing, I mean it won't even attempt to turn over, its never done this before. I tried jump starting it, still nothing. I did notice that when I have the battery connected, there is a bit of a "spark" sound when I turn the key, but it still does not even attempt to turn over, when I disconnect the negative cable, there is no "spark" sound when I attempt to turn the key. It would appear the battery and cables are fine, as they are all new and connected. Could it be the starter? Any other ideas? Any thing else I can try to see if its the starter? The starter is not going to be real easy to get to on this model. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, I am NOT a mechanic. By the way, its the 3 cylinder gas model.

also, I'm getting some leaking of oil from the PTO area recently. Whats the best way to fix that?


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## farmertim (Dec 1, 2010)

It sounds like it could be your ignition switch, I have had one fail on me before.


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## stevewel (May 26, 2012)

Its not the ignition switch, tried a new one, still the same thing, think I am going to check out a multi-meter purchase to track down electrical issue. New battery is fully charged, new battery cables, no change.


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## Mike77 (Jan 7, 2013)

I can give some advice when it comes to the pto even though that's the least of your problems now. I had my pto on my 9n leak directly from the pto seal. Simple solution drain your fluid and either buy liquid gasket it a new one and it should stop any leakage.


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## stevewel (May 26, 2012)

Thanks Mike for the information, sounds like something worth trying once I get it running again. I think I've narrowed it down to the starter, almost has to be, I've bought a cheap multi-meter, but still trying to figure out the multi-meter, now I think it might be just easier to replace the starter than learn how to use the multi-meter. Anyway, thanks for the idea on the gasket seal


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## cougsfan (Apr 20, 2013)

Don't let a Multimeter scare you. Turn it on. Put the dial to DC Volts. If it has a range, select 20 Volts. Put the red wire on the positive terminal and the black wire on the negative terminal. It should read 12.6 volts or higher. (test it on your car battery to be sure you are doing it right) If it is below that, the battery needs charged.

From there on, you can keep the black on the negative post and put the red lead on whatever you want to check (The terminals on the ignition switch or the starter terminal) to see if the power reaches there. The starter has a big terminal, which should have juice all the time, and two small terminals on the solenoid (the little round thing on top of it). The juice has to get to one one the small terminals on the solenoid to engage the starter.

Harbor Freight gives away free multimeters with a coupon from a magazine when you buy something there. They are cheap (in quality, and obviously price), but work just fine. I have several laying around and even leave on in the toolbox on my tractor.


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## stevewel (May 26, 2012)

Well, it wasn't the starter, or the ignition switch, or any specific wiring short, or the battery cables, and etc, finally found a guy in the area that is use to working on these tractors and knew right off the bat that it was the neutral safety switch. A switch that makes sure you can only start the tractor in neutral, it had went bad. All good now! Been mowing with the tractor for over a month now!


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## Ben t (Jul 15, 2017)

Hi 


stevewel said:


> Well, it wasn't the starter, or the ignition switch, or any specific wiring short, or the battery cables, and etc, finally found a guy in the area that is use to working on these tractors and knew right off the bat that it was the neutral safety switch. A switch that makes sure you can only start the tractor in neutral, it had went bad. All good now! Been mowing with the tractor for over
> 
> 
> stevewel said:
> ...


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