# Alternator or Generator that is the question



## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Hello all,

Ford 4000 3cyl diesel and it has a Generator. I am having some electrical issues and I thought about changing the generator to a alternator system but not sure why. 

Can you all give me the Pros and Cons of each type of system.

On English versions of this tractor they have a horn button just below the starter switch. Mine has a blank plate for it but no horn.

Have any of you ever needed a horn?

I am thinking of installing an auxiliary power connection at the rear of the tractor and using the horn switch opening for a switch that would operate the auxiliary power if I put one in. 

What do you all think? 

Horn or Aux power? 

I know that if I go with auxiliary power all it would be good for is DC operated devices, May be a trailer, or a work light. 

Thanks for your input.

:hohoho:


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Well, I'm really not familiar with these tractors, but do you have a proofmeter? Is it driven off of the Generator? If so, you may be looking at some expensive modifications to your tractor getting an alternator with the proofmeter drive on it. 
As for the horn.... I have one on my '48 Cockshutt. It's on the keyswitch. The key switch is similar to an automotive unit that has the on position and the spring return start position. If I forget (almost always) that the tractor has a starter button like my 8N, and turn the key to the start position, It freaks out everyone in earshot!
A horn is fine as far as I'm concerned, an implement light on the back can be had with the switch right on the light. You could hook yourself up power to a linear actuator to operate a swing chute on a snow blower for instance, or a down pressure cylinder for a posthole auger, etc.
Endless possibilities! Although I know some other members here may have some real good, practical ideas.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Pogobill, I like your idea of a pressure sensor/cylinder for a post hole auger. I will need to put up a lot of fence poles and with all the large rocks we have here in Ky I would hate to blow out an auger.


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## RM-MN (Sep 11, 2015)

Boy! Have I ever needed a horn on my tractor. Twice. In forty years. 

I'd put in auxiliary power to the rear instead if you have a use for it. Something like rear illumination for night activities might come in handy, especially with the new LED lights. Low power draw, plenty of light. I might even put a couple more of the LED lights up front connected to that switch for times when the original lights just weren't bright enough.

There isn't a big reason to change from generator to alternator. Fixing what you have is likely cheaper and it will do the same thing, keep the battery charged. If you had a big power draw you could get an alternator with more output but it will take engine power to produce that. Most tractors don't have all the accessories to need all that power.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Pogobill's comment about the tachometer drive is an important consideration if you use the tach. You can get alternators with a tach drive, but then you may problems with the direction of rotation, requiring a different tach.??


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

Generators require convertors that go bad and make things complex. They make alternators for these fords that have a tach drive and most people use alternators and dropped the generator in the 70s. If someone cant hear a diesel tractor coming down the road, do you really think a horn is going to help?


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

My saying is if it ain't broken don't fix it. I have a gen and put 8 LED lights on top of the cab to diminish the draw. For the Horn my kids work with and around the equipment so I find it very handy. Most times they act and then think .


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

A generator will recharge a dead battery from go, an alternator doesn't have a chance with a dead battery, the alternator has to be excited to produce amperage.

Your question has good points and bad points, and both systems are good in their own way oldmanfarmer.

A horn is an extra that can be fitted if you think you may need this, I would go for the LED lights front and rear


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## RM-MN (Sep 11, 2015)

FredM said:


> A generator will recharge a dead battery from go, an alternator doesn't have a chance with a dead battery, the alternator has to be excited to produce amperage.
> 
> Your question has good points and bad points, and both systems are good in their own way oldmanfarmer.
> 
> A horn is an extra that can be fitted if you think you may need this, I would go for the LED lights front and rear


It doesn't take much to excite an alternator and in any case, how many of us have a crank and the engine set up to use a crank? Many tractors will come without the adapter on the crankshaft pulley to use a crank. It's pretty hard to start a tractor with a completely dead battery unless it is equipped with a magneto.


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## alteet (Oct 20, 2016)

I got an alternator with tach drive for $109. My 5000 had an alternator on it, but no tach drive. The 1-wire alternator does eliminate the voltage regulator, which simplifies things (always a good thing in my case) and seems to charge fine.

The aux power idea for the blank hole is a good one, but not what I did. Instead, since I had to rewire the tractor with new switches anyhow, I put a pushbutton switch there to power up my thermostart heating element. I haven't wired in rear lights, yet, but the work light will definitely be LED for all the advantages already described.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

*Alt or Gen ?*

Well so far we are straight up even on the Poll.

I'm not sure what I will do yet but love all the ideas and hoping I get a lot more. What I do know is that I need to get LED work lights.

Dose any one know what is the best kind of wire I should use?

My local shop wants to sell me a complete harness. That is their job but I want to do it so I can learn the wiring and tractor. That way if there is a problem I can fix it with out too much help.

Thanks guys/gals I'll let you know the out come of the poll and what i decide.

:merry:


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## alteet (Oct 20, 2016)

I would use 16 gauge stranded copper wire. Also use common sense chafe protection. I use crimp connectors throughout in situations like this, but others may differ.

I am not a fan of scotchlok connectors, though.


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

Noooo! Stay away from the dealer. They just want to rape you. That harness at Messicks is $255 and will be even higher at the dealer. Then you have to buy more $100 plus wires to plug into it. Just look at your service manual and wire it yourself. 
From the battery:
Negative wires: battery cable to starter or ground bolt close to starter and regular wire to proofmeter
Positive wires: battery cable to starter and regular wire to ignition switch and one to alternator
From ignition switch (positive): one to starter solenoid, one to heater switch and one to light switch, horn switch and accessories and one to proofmeter to power lights and gauges. 
From proofmeter you have wires to oil pressure sensor and temperature sensor and fuel sensor. 
I have done it with 12 gauge wire which was overkill, but it was easy. It cost me about $20 for wire and connectors, not $400 plus that your dealer wants.


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