# Ford 5000 operation



## MrChris (Oct 4, 2018)

Having ruined several transmissions on "Garden" tractors now dragging the DR Grader up and down the 1/4 gravel driveway to my home, I have decided to get a real tractor and leave the other to mowing the lawn.

In my area used tractors are like gold. But, that said, I found a very clean and well kept Ford 5000 that has been used by a farmer for working a hay field since it was new. Two mowings a year plus some hay bale cart hauling is all its seen. That said, he's got all the service records and the machine looks and sounds fantastic. Forget the exact reading, but only has a bit more than 3000 hours on it. The owner says it pretty much just sits now as his other tractor is used more in the past 5 years. Its a gas engine which isn't a real problem for me. I know how to work on older engines. (I've got an old Jeep)

Anyway, I see by my research that these are good machines and should be more than capable for my needs. 

What I need is some idea on how you are supposed to drive these things. 4 speed transmission with a high/low and a hand throttle under the right side of the steering wheel. Clutch on the left foot and dual brake pedals on the right. I was able to take it for a quick spin, but I don't quite get how one is supposed to shift. Unlike any other manual I've driven, as soon as I hit the clutch, the tractor slowed quickly, the gears ground a little, and I never did manage to move the throttle. 

Can someone give me a quick verbal lesson? I just want to know how this is supposed to work so that I don't damage anything. 

Is the engine supposed to die when you move the throttle all the way forward?

The guy who let me look at it wasn't the farmer and he wasn't at all familiar with the machine, so he wasn't much help. If I hadn't looked up the controls before I went to look at it, I'd never even have got that far.

Also, the hydraulics have only been used to raise and lower the 3-point on the back and they operate smooth. The tractor is supposed to have a means to connect other attachments. How hard is it to find a loader for these nearly 50 year old machines? Thinking that since it is a 'real' tractor, it might be useful as a snow removal tool. 

It comes with a 'roof', but no sides. Are there any enclosures that can hang off the roof and just provide some weather protection?

And lastly, this one has the bolt-on headlights. Is there a way to preserve the housing and install a brighter LED bulb in them? Ir should I simply look for a replacement lamp entirely? Kinda like the old look.

Thanks


----------



## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Welcome to the forum Mr Chris!! I think that's going to be non syncro'd which means pick your gear and go. No shifting on the fly.


----------



## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Hoodoo Valley is correct, the transmission is not synchronized. You stop, pick a gear, and then go to work. Here is a good place to start to learn what you have: http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/6/266-ford-5000.html

Once you determine the configuration and year, get an Operator's Manual from any number of sources. Just do a net search, and many choices will pop up.

I would recommend a Service Manual too, so you know what valve you either already have, or need to obtain to connect a loader to the tractor. They are an excellent loader tractor, and an all around good tractor if maintained.

There are new loaders from companies like Woods for that tractor, and also used Ford loaders for that model in many of the tractor salvage yards. For a new operator I really recommend a new loader because of the maintenance likely required on used loaders is beyond the average new owner, and the freight costs of shipping used is the same as new (and considerable). If a salvage yard is local, and they warranty the condition of the OEM loader, then it is an excellent choice.

As for the canopy on the tractor, it really depends on the manufacturer of the canopy. If it is a Key Dollar unit, it is part of a system that can be upgraded to a soft cab. If it is OEM Ford, it is just what you see and no more. It may be some other version of a commercial canopy that can be upgraded, but that is a sleuth task you will need to undertake. Shop around on Ebay for soft cab kits, and you may find a vendor with something you can modify.

Nearly every tractor dealer now carries LED light kits for converting tractor lighting. Ebay, Amazon, and many of the on-line tractor supply firms also carry kits. For even brighter lighting consider one of the High Intensity Discharge kits.


----------



## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

I have practically the same tractor; a Massey Ferguson. I generally 'work' it at about 15 to 1800 rpm., travel on the road 'wide' open or close to it and just 'jigging' around 900 or 1200 rpm. The way to adjust your speed is select a gear!
Get a NEW loader installed by a tractor dealership........shop around because ANY tractor dealer can supply and install one that fits your tractor.
That 'sunshade' you have can be fitted on all or three sides with a variety of materials by a 'tent maker' or 'tarpmaker', these snap panels even can be 100% clear plastic for the best vision. You can direct engine heat to you by covering the engine sides....google heat houser.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Find out what you have by encoding the serial number and model/date codes here:
http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/rhcodes_serial.html

There were some minor changes during the time of production and April 1st 1968 the model was updated with a bigger engine and some exterior changes. Therefore you need to know when the tractor and its components were made, in order to get correct parts.

Find spare part numbers (expand the "Part Name" column to check "Prod Date"):
https://partstore.agriculture.newho...f8c9f5d6b&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr52013ag20617
I do not understand why New Holland shows 1/62 as start month, it was introduced in 1965.

An Owner's Manual for the British market:
https://www.tractorforum.com/manuals/ford-2000-3000-4000-5000-operators-service-manual.2/

An Owner's Manual for the US market:
www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Operators%20Manual%20All%20Purpose%20and%20LCG%20Tractors%202000,3000,4000,and%205000.pdf


When you move the hand throttle all the way forward, the engine should slow down and idle (600-650 rpm).

You can double clutch to shift gears on the go but it is seldom necessary, unless you want to race.

Make sure you have the brake pedals locked together before you enter a road with other traffic.

Be careful when you start the tractor uphill, especially when you have a heavy load on a wagon. The tractor can rear on its rear wheels and flip backwards. If you are approaching a steep hill pulling a heavy load, better stop and choose a lower gear before the hill, than risking to stall half way up and have to fiddle with brake and clutch.


----------



## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

I have a ford 3000 and I love it. The 5000 is more than enough tractor for you. If you are handy with torches and a welder you can make enny loader of appropriate size fit . But you will have to do a lot of research to do it right. As for the canopy you can also build your own enclosure. Plywood, plexiglass , tarp , ect... As others said pick a gear and go. You must be completely stopped to change gears and range. For the snow removal I'd go with the 3 point snow blower that runs off the PTO and also the front end loader ( FEL). There is an abundance of parts on the market and they are easy to work on if you have a little bit of know how. For the engine rpm it should not die when going from low to high. Sounds like the carb needs a good cleaning . Probably needs a full tune up. Filters, plugs, wires, cap, ect... Might be a good idea to do a compression test on cylinders to make sure you don't set yourself up for an unwanted engine overhaul.
Here in ont Canada that unit with a FEL would go for about 5000$ to 6000$ on the high end. An other thing to check is clutch adjustment . How much adjustment is left on it. Clutch change requires a tractor split to change . It's a pretty big job but doable if you have the right place tools and know how.
50 year old tractors are mechanic specials no mater what so expect to do a lot of work on them. PO hack jobs are common just to get them going again .

Good luck


----------



## MrChris (Oct 4, 2018)

Thanks guys. I took a photo of the area where the numbers are, but the paint or light wasn't allowing a good read, so I'll need to look at that with more care once I have the machine. 

Glad to hear it is a set and go. Totally missed the "The tractor must be stopped to change gears" on the spec page.

How much of a PIA is it to change the track width? I think the front wheels are OK, but I'd like to narrow up the rear wheels a bit. They are over 82" wide at the moment. I see the process in one of the manuals, but that doesn't really say just how much work it is. Those tire/wheel assemblies are heavy, so I'm sure some care needs to be taken.

The drawbar in the back has the ability to side in and out and side to side. Is it possible to swing it to the side and lock it there so that the implement being towed is held out to the side? Or is that not a good idea?

I saw some videos of a rear mounted snow plow. Seems like as long as the snow isn't crazy deep and the tractor has no trouble driving through it, it should work. Looks like a much more affordable option than some kind of front mount that needs a whole hydraulic setup as well as the plow. Anyone have any experience with these? Are they as simple to use as they appear?

In my Jeep, I replaced the points with an electronic module from Pertronix. Not sure what engine to look up for the Ford, but curious if anyone else has updated that part of their electrical system. Was a significant improvement in the Jeep - thinking it would be similar in the tractor. 

As the machine is nearly 50 hours over the last service and more than that over a tuneup, I am planning to just go and replace all the normal wear items like cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc. Will put in fresh oil and filter on the engine. Gotta do some price comparison on the transmission and axle oils. Need like 12 gallons of Universal Tractor Fluid for the both of them. That might have to wait until the spring. (^_^)

I'll probably pull the valve cover and check the gaps too - mostly to get an idea of the condition of the internals, but also to make sure they have been maintained. I assume the gas engine isn't too hard to turn by hand. Might just check compression at the same time. Anyone have a range that is considered "normal"? May have missed it in the service manual, but don't recall seeing it. Probably not a big deal as long as all 4 read close to each other.

Thanks again. I'm sure I'll have more questions and operational concerns as I play. Then again, as I try things I might find more and more "AH HA" moments as the use of the controls makes more sense.


----------

