# Putting a loader on Ford 1215 from a 1210 Ford



## 92335 (Nov 23, 2020)

I bought this tractor a few months ago and posted it here before I even got home with it. So here's what i have and what I'm trying to do. My old Tractor a 1210 has a Ford Loader 768B. I'd like to put the loader on my 1215. So it's an older loader, and bolting on isn't the problem. The problem is where to attach the lines on the 1215, as the hydraulic system has changed. Hopefully the pictures will show all this. 

#1. This is the hydraulic manifold and 2 of the hoses come off of this to the loader. The problem is the 1215 isn't the same as the 1210, So I hope someone can tell me where the lines go on the 1215.


















Here's the new tractor, the manifold is incorporated into the pump (?) I think....
















For your viewing pleasure.... Here's a picture of both tractors. My 1210 was worn out when I bought it about 15 years ago. And as time wore on the 4x4 quit, the lights never worked, and in general was beyond it's years.


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## 92335 (Nov 23, 2020)

Guess I didn't say it very well.... I'm hoping for some talent here to help me figure out where to hook the lines up on my newer tractor. That's why both pictures from the manuals are included. Someone of way more skill and knowledge than I. Thank You!


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

Hi Kenny, I am following this to hopefully learn the same for my 1910 Ford


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## 92335 (Nov 23, 2020)

The-Bull, Thank You! I have manuals for both tractors but I haven't figured it out for myself, having trouble deciphering it. I may end up going to the Local New Holland dealer and see if they can help, however they are an hour away and I haven't ever been there. So I would be a stranger walking in... not sure that would get me anywhere. Hopefully someone will respond that has the knowledge and wisdom to help out!


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

I am in the same boat as the closest Ford/New Holland dealer is an hour away. I looked at my friends (model 1710) and mine and his have a similar hydraulic block like your first picture and I think mine is plumbed like his but it is not working. LOL


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I don't think I've ever seen one of those valve blocks that didn't work. There's only one moving part, and it only rotates about 1/2 turn from one position to the other. In one position oil from the pump goes straight back to the lift system. In the other position the fluid comes out one of the ports (shown plugged in all the photos and diagrams thus far) and should go back into the other port after passing through your loader (or whatever else) valve. It then travels back to the lift system. It's really pretty simple.


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

Fedup said:


> I don't think I've ever seen one of those valve blocks that didn't work. There's only one moving part, and it only rotates about 1/2 turn from one position to the other. In one position oil from the pump goes straight back to the lift system. In the other position the fluid comes out one of the ports (shown plugged in all the photos and diagrams thus far) and should go back into the other port after passing through your loader (or whatever else) valve. It then travels back to the lift system. It's really pretty simple.


I must just have mine hooked up wrong, how can I tell which port is incoming and outgoing?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I'm not positive on this but I'm guessing the port at the rear would be the pressure out, the one at the center would be pressure in, and the one at the front would be the sump return. 

I would remove all three plugs, rotate the spool in one direction then bump the starter. If you don't see oil from one port then rotate the spool and try again. It's not that complicated. 

Another way would be using compressed air. I've used that many times as well. With all ports open, blow air into each port for effect. With the spool is fully rotated in one direction, the engine off, lift arms down, put the lever in the raise position. Using a rubber tipped air nozzle put air pressure into each port. The pressure out port will be blocked. The pressure in port will cause the lift arms to pop up. The sump port will allow air to drain off somewhere into the transmission case. If you don't get that, turn the spool in the other direction.


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

Here is a picture of my Hydraulic manifold block. It had 3 allen plugs and I have tried hooking to all of them. It seems like the lift tries to go up which ever way I move the lever but only moves about 1/2 inch. This makes me think the return line should go somewhere else. I am a newby so I am not sure what you mean by the spool.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

And you have tried turning the slotted spool both ways with no effect? I suggest you remove both hoses and the allen head plug. Then try the compressed air test.


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

I got it, after changing the lines a couple of times and turning the slotted spool a few times I finally got it to work ok. Thank you Fedup for your help.


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

Hotrodkenny said:


> The-Bull, Thank You! I have manuals for both tractors but I haven't figured it out for myself, having trouble deciphering it. I may end up going to the Local New Holland dealer and see if they can help, however they are an hour away and I haven't ever been there. So I would be a stranger walking in... not sure that would get me anywhere. Hopefully someone will respond that has the knowledge and wisdom to help out!


Did you figur it out Kenny? I would try the 2 allen plugs in the picture above "Figure 31" and try adjusting the slotted spool next to it as Fedup said.


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## 92335 (Nov 23, 2020)

I haven't really had a chance.... besides raising my grandson and also waited for you to get yours figured out. I'll be back at it next week, maybe then.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I just have to ask. I see two hose fittings and one plug in the valve block. Does your loader have only those two hoses connected to the tractor? If so, you may want to consider that you could be creating problems down the road. If you use the tractor almost exclusively for the loader, and maybe some drawbar work, then you should be okay. If you plan to use the three point much or use the loader while carrying much weight on the three point, you might take a second look at your loader valve. The proper configuration would contain a power beyond sleeve and a third hose for the loader function return. Your current valve may or may not have that capability, but I suggest you find out.


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

Fedup said:


> I just have to ask. I see two hose fittings and one plug in the valve block. Does your loader have only those two hoses connected to the tractor? If so, you may want to consider that you could be creating problems down the road. If you use the tractor almost exclusively for the loader, and maybe some drawbar work, then you should be okay. If you plan to use the three point much or use the loader while carrying much weight on the three point, you might take a second look at your loader valve. The proper configuration would contain a power beyond sleeve and a third hose for the loader function return. Your current valve may or may not have that capability, but I suggest you find out.


It does have the metal lines that come out of the front and rear of the block and it has a rear remote that is hooked (by metal lines) to the block.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I'm not at all sure what that means. The question is does the loader valve(assuming there is one) have two or three lines connecting it to the tractor? It will have four connected to the loader cylinders and either two or three connecting to the tractor hydraulics. That's the important part.


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

Fedup said:


> I'm not at all sure what that means. The question is does the loader valve(assuming there is one) have two or three lines connecting it to the tractor? It will have four connected to the loader cylinders and either two or three connecting to the tractor hydraulics. That's the important part.


It only has 2 lines that go to the tractor and 4 that operate the lift and bucket. There is a separate valve body that runs the hook up on the rear that has quick connects for a center link cylinder.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Although there a great many loaders installed and connected as your is, that doesn't mean it's the right way to go. A loader (or any other) valve connected in series with another valve, as yours is, should be configured in power beyond fashion. As I mentioned earlier, if you don't use your three point or factory remote valve for much "heavy lifting", you may get by just fine. Just be aware that when using a valve to operate hydraulic components, whether it's loader cylinders or anything else, the fluid returning to that valve should then have a free flowing, relatively low pressure pathway to sump. As currently configured, your loader valve does not provide that. If that's going to be a problem for you or not remains to be seen. 

Another concern with a "non power beyond" type configuration is that when the system pressure in the lift or remote circuits builds, that pressure is also present in portions of the loader valve that aren't designed for it. This can easily (and often does) result in leaks developing around the spool seals on the front and back of the valve. Your valve may already show signs of it if it was plumbed with only two lines on the tractor it came from.


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## The-Bull (Feb 23, 2021)

Fedup said:


> Although there a great many loaders installed and connected as your is, that doesn't mean it's the right way to go. A loader (or any other) valve connected in series with another valve, as yours is, should be configured in power beyond fashion. As I mentioned earlier, if you don't use your three point or factory remote valve for much "heavy lifting", you may get by just fine. Just be aware that when using a valve to operate hydraulic components, whether it's loader cylinders or anything else, the fluid returning to that valve should then have a free flowing, relatively low pressure pathway to sump. As currently configured, your loader valve does not provide that. If that's going to be a problem for you or not remains to be seen.
> 
> Another concern with a "non power beyond" type configuration is that when the system pressure in the lift or remote circuits builds, that pressure is also present in portions of the loader valve that aren't designed for it. This can easily (and often does) result in leaks developing around the spool seals on the front and back of the valve. Your valve may already show signs of it if it was plumbed with only two lines on the tractor it came from.


I am confused, I thought I understood you to mean that by turning the spool the return line oil would go back to the oil tank or sump freely. Where would be the best to run the return line to?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Sorry for the confusion, but the point I'm making is a loader valve in an instance such as this, should have three lines to and from the tractor, not just two as you have at present. What you have may well be working,but it could present issues down the road.

Rotating the spool in question only directs flow for pressure out and pressure in. In one position oil from the pump flows directly back to lift. When rotated to the other position flow is directed to the pressure out port. The pressure in port then leads to the lift system and auxiliaries. That oil will reach sump after first passing through the lift and other valves provided all those valves are in neutral, not in use, and not directing flow or demanding pressure. 

The slotted spool is simply a means of interrupting that flow, allowing the use of other functions like a loader valve. The third port (the one with the plug still in it) is directly connected to sump return, and currently you're not using it. That port is unaffected by the spool no matter which way its turned.


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## 92335 (Nov 23, 2020)

Doesn't at all help me. Thanks anyways.


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