# 446 with snow caster



## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

I just got a 446 16 hp onan I snow blowed one strip down the driveway and it started acting funny then I started hearing sizzling sounds and shut it off and it was off and the sizzling kept going for about 5 mins. I tried to restart and nothing. dead as can be. I got it moved in garage and checked battery it was toast it was down past the plates. So got new battery starts great and runs great but I have no forward or backward movement and no hydraulics. in low speed nothing and high. Did the hydraulics burn up? or strator or clutch. something was sizzling but it sounded like it was coming from the middle of motor. any thoughts and help i would greatly be thankful for. first time owner, first time posting.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum Steve, sorry to hear of your dilemma. You may want to PM member Jssec, as he has been working and restoring quite a few of these tractors. New tractor ownership can be exciting, for sure, but a quick check of all the fluid levels, nuts and bolts, and tire pressures before you inaugural run may have save you some grief. The transmission is powered by a hydraulic pump, and could very well have been very low on oil, similar to the state of the battery. Do you have any manuals for your tractor?


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

all maintance was done. fluids were fine and still are. tires motor also. if it were something to prevent I done it.


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

And thank you for the welcome and comment


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Did you get a chance to narrow down the area of the sizzling sound?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

"I got it moved in garage".... Did you go to neutral on the Hi/Lo range selector at the front of the seat (to push it into the garage) and forget to put back in either the high or low position? That's the common "senior moment" for no forward/reverse. "No hydraulics" is different story.....

That sizzling sound... 1)The engines attaches to the hyd pump through a love-joy coupler under the battery box. Check the Love-joy coupler to make sure the pump is being driven by the engine. 2) If the Love-Joy is turning the pump, could that "sizzling" sound be coming from the operating valve? If so, one of the relief balls in the operating valve may not be seating all the way and you're hearing the valve dumping pressure coming from the pump.

I just posted the 446 Parts Manual in the *manuals section*. I have a PDF Service Manual somewhere in my files on another computer. I'll post it later today, if I can find it.... (See page 44 in the parts manual to locate the relief balls on the valve body)


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

Thank you so much for info. yes I did put in neutral. but I did put in low to try forward and rev. to no avail. And still no hydraulics. I haven't tore into it yet its been so cold. no heat in garage {detached} But it did feel to me that I couldn't really feel like it would shift into high. like no click or feeling of going into a gear. When it stopped everything was on. Pto, low gear, snow blower. if that helps any. But thank you so much for reaching out to me. I am a little bewildered since it was supposed to have been all rebuilt. And hydro gone over. new lines and all. And its the first time I have had tractor with hydro.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Do you feel a distinct tension when you engage either the forward/reverse lever, or the up/down on the hydraulic lever? The pump has to be driving for directional motion, or the hydraulics. Lose of both at the same time is either a pump, or a valve problem. Both control levers hook to that two-spool valve you see on page 44 in the parts manual. I assume you've checked the hyd fluid?


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

I know little about the innards of the Case tractors, but the sizzling sound you heard and the discovery of the battery being way low has me pondering. Did the battery leak acid out of the bottom, possibly destroying the lovejoy joint that connects the motor to the pump? Was the battery really old? Could the sizzling sound have been melting snow being turned into steam? Could the sizzling sound been melting snow turning into water and shorting out a circuit somewhere?


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

Thank you Bob and yes it still has fluid. It did go down just a tad when I started it up with a new battery. there was no tension feeling in the high or low when trying to engage. I also didn't see any leaks on the ground below of any fluid.


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

Joe yes the battery did seem a bit aged. No date was marked on it. so I popped the caps and level was below plates. Don't belive there was a leak from battery nothing in the battery box when I exchanged battery. Well I didn't think of melting snow. but no steam or smell that I could tell. that's why I kinda figured it might have been something in a enclosed area. It was sizzling and continued after shut off for about 5 mins. like it might have cooled down or something. If that makes sense.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

You keep mentioning "No Hydraulics".... Which is it.. The snowblower doesn't drive, or not lift up/down? I'm assuming this is a front-mounted blower?

*The hydraulics are pretty simple:*
1) Engine drives pump through a love-joy coupler (pump is below battery box)
2) Pump supplies fluid pressure to an open-center, two-spool, valve body (located under your feet as you're sitting on the tractor)
*Sitting on the seat, facing forward...*
3) Left side valve spool is attached to the motion control lever and controls the flow to the drive motor attached to the differential for forward/reverse motion
4) Right side valve spool is attached to the up/down implement lever and controls the flow to the hydraulic lift cylinder underneath the tractor for up/down implement motion.

If the tractor has a 3-point hitch, it's usually another open center, single-spool, valve body teed into the right side valve feed coming from the pump. Does it have a 3-point hitch?

The only common failure point for both no forward/reverse motion and no up/down implement function is either the pump, or pump drive coupling


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

No lift No forward or backwards trans. don't know about down its already as low as it will go. yes front mounted


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

OK …. We're back to seeing if the engine is driving the pump through the lovejoy coupler (under the battery). 

If the coupler has failed.... There are two different sizes. Part #C18916 is 1/2" x 1- 1/8". Part #C20060 is for a 9/16" pump shaft. C18916 is the most common. You *DON'T *want to just go out and buy that coupler shopping the Case Part # (runs $123)
https://www.caseingersollparts.com/store/p944/C18916_COUPLING_FLEX_1/2x1-1/8".html

Here's a complete identical coupler on E-bay for $30
https://www.ebay.com/itm/163888857385

Usually what fails is the rubber "Spider". If just the spider failed, here's one through Grainger for $12. Your looking for a L095 "Jaw Coupling Insert" if you want to look somewhere besides Grainger

https://www.grainger.com/product/3K...39699&ef_id=Xc9C1gAAAIK-hjvh:20191116010427:s

Let us know if it's not a failed coupler and the pump is actually turning.....


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

ok got to take a look at the tractor this morning. At looking at lovejoy coupler it LOOKS ok and does move when I turn the motor by hand unless there is something hidden I cant see. I did notice fluid on the valve connectors on the thing mounted under seat. is it possible that just the hydro motor went out. but I saw no signs of the sizzling sounds burning something up but if its inside I see that I woundnt be able to tell unless I take it off. should I just remove the main motor to get to all the other stuff to test anything else and how do I test them. Or maybe its a stuck ball valve as you pointed out possilbly. how do I test or try out the stuck ball valve if I can. just don't know. thanks so much for helping me. Also I cant click on the manual tab in your reply it don't go to the site.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Go to the top banner on *this* website and look for the *Manuals* tab. Once it opens, go to page 2 and look for the Case 446 parts manual. That will give you an idea of what everything looks like. It's easier to get at everything if you pull the engine, but once you do that you have no easy way to drive the pump to test what pressure you're getting at the valve body. Page 44 in the parts manual shows you the valve body. Note that were two different valve bodies/hyd pumps used on the 446. The switch came at serial # 9679207. Look at the data plate to see if the tractor is before, or after, serial # 9679207 to determine which set of valve body/hyd pump your tractor has installed.

Page 40 gives you a few on the entire system. The first thing I would check is to make sure your getting a good flow of hyd fluid through the system. Fluid goes from tank to pump through part # 10 --- Pump to valve body through part # 21. Comes out of the valve body and returns to the oil cooler through part #23. Goes through the cooler and returns to the tank through part #14. Probably the best place to test for pump flow through the entire circuit at once is at the connection point for part # 14. Loosen a hose clamp slightly at (part #14) and start the engine *momentarily*. Be prepared for a mess... You're checking to see if hyd fluid is making a complete "loop" through the entire system and there should be fluid coming out of that hose at a significant rate. Weak, or no flow, means you need to check into what is killing the flow. You should get some flow through the system regardless of pump condition. Check the hyd flow through the system and let me know what you find. 

BTW... What is in the tank for hyd fluid? It actually should be motor oil, not standard AW32 hyd fluid


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

it looks like a fresh oil. and is 4 inches from top of reservoir.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Can you tell if it's motor oil, or actual hydraulic fluid. It's supposed to be 20W40 motor oil.

I just posted several Case manuals in the manuals tab. There were a couple good ones on the hydraulic system it would NOT let me post for some reason. To get to those you'll need to join the GT Talk Forum

https://gardentractortalk.com/forums/files/file/3021-case-hydraulic-system-how-it-works/


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

Bob thank you so much for the manuals. comes in real handy. Would the relief valve have popped open and made that sizzling sound from heating up under pressure? And if so what would have caused that? stuck ball valve? Do I have to get valve control rebuilt? as far as I could tell it was 20/40 oil in it. I drained all of it and putting in fresh when I figure this out. Thanks so much for help..


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

A relief valve can definitely make a sizzling sound if a ball is not completely seating. There could be any number of reasons why debris in the hyd circuit could get under a ball and hold it off the seat. Most common would be a 40 year old return line hose that is deteriorating, got hot when you were operating, and shed rubber internally into the hyd oil and it passed through your pump and valve body. One of the valve spools hanging up and not returning to center could make a sizzling sound also. Before I had the valve rebuilt I would pull it off, thoroughly clean it, make sure the spools are centering, and check that the relief balls are seating. You can clean it with brake cleaner (it's the cheapest aerosol solvent) and compressed air (if you have it). I can walk you through how to check the ball seats when you're ready. You're going to need to plumb a hydraulic gauge to the circuit to check/set hyd pressure when you get it back together. Here's what you need in the way of a gauge

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...3708&msclkid=758d89bcc33e127ec5e6d46608c31e80


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

ok just went to take off valve control box and I don't have a wrench that fits it. is there a way to drop the whole box off first and maybe I can fit the big cresent on there and does the 2 middle lines just screw off. never have dealt with this stuff,Bob sorry if im being a pain. heres my s/n for tractor if it might help A853 862638. engine is 843m cao16/3622A


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

The valve body is a PITA to pull. Let's shift direction and try to get an idea of what kind of pressure the pump is delivering to the valve body. There is a 1/4" pipe plug on the bottom side of the valve body. This the pressure test port. The yellow arrow in this picture is pointing to where they've tapped into the port with a hyd line that is attached to a 3000 PSI hyd guage ….










Here's what you need to come up with a test gauge to check the pump delivery pressure....

*3000 PSI GAUGE*
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...3708&msclkid=c9e5d185ff7314a757a28c5f32610ee1

*1/4" X 36 " HYD HOSE *
https://www.grainger.com/product/EATON-AEROQUIP-Hydraulic-Hose-Assembly-2F715

*1/4" 304 SS FNPT COUPLER*
https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-304-Stainless-Steel-Coupling-1LRY6

We need to tap into that port and read main hyd pressure to start the steps in the diagnostic tree


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## Jssec (Oct 6, 2018)

With HI/LO in Neutral I would crack the pressure hose coming from the pump going into the travel control valve stick a pan under it and crank the engine a few seconds with the plug wires off. It would rule out the pump or not. If it has oil flow I would move to the drive motor and do the same with the lever in forward then reverse with HI/LO in Neutral.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Unless the pump is complete junk, you are always going to get some flow out of a gear pump. Having flow out of the pump does not equate to it's ability to build pressure. With a stuck/worn thrust plate in the pump, you will still have some flow, but it won't build full relief pressure when work resistance is applied. You can not accurately trouble-shoot a hydraulic system without the use of a pressure gauge, it's like trying to trouble-shoot an electrical problem without using a VOM. Putting a jumper wire between the + and - terminals of a battery will give you a spark (same as seeing some flow in a hydraulic system), but it doesn't tell you if that is a 12.5V spark or a 7.8V spark


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## Steve todd (Nov 12, 2019)

just wanted to think everyone who tried to help me. it is a heartfelt thanks for your time and energy. thanks again. Now to tell you about my wonderful 446. I was thinking the whole time it was the hydro. after all the hours I found the problem it was the keyway where the lovejoy meets the pump and it had loosened with running. and the keyway had fallen out and made the coupling slip apart where the shaft was moving but not the coupling. so with taking it to a nearby shop machinist he ground the piece that holds the coupling on. which we think was a aftermarket piece that had some type of bowl dip in it and he shaved it down to more fitting snug on shaft. so she is now getting work done just done the start to garden. just remembered I wanted to thank and let yall know what was wrong .to maybe help someone in the future.


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