# Ford 3000 generator vs alternator



## GFC Firefighter

I currently have a generator but don't think it's charging. is it worth fixing or going to alternator?

will only use headlights and rear lights. Nothing else.


----------



## Hoodoo Valley

Hey GFC! Alternators are superior to generators, and they'll charge up your battery even while the engine is idling whereas a generator will allow discharge while the engine idles and you can likely pick up a rebuilt or new alternator for less than it would cost to fix your generator.


----------



## GFC Firefighter

That's true. I'm wondering if I need to keep my tach on my tractor? Don't hardly use it cause the tach wire is messed up.


----------



## GFC Firefighter

New alternator with tach drive and mount kit is 250 plus shipping.

Alternator without tach with mount kit is 180ish plus shipping


----------



## Hoodoo Valley

Have you considered or even looked at maybe getting a smaller alternator for like say... an older Toyota truck, and adapting it? Those prices seem high to me.....


----------



## contractorjake

Get a old delco one wire


----------



## jhngardner367

You can,as contractorjake said ,use a Delco from say a 80's gm. They don't cost much,and charge at idle .Plus,they have a built-in regulator,and only use a one wire connection.


----------



## GFC Firefighter

What's the the difference with a 3 wire alt and one wire


----------



## peachhead

I am in the midst of replacing the generator/regulator on my 3000, cost me $100 for both as opposed to min $50/60 for an alternator and then I had to mount it and wire it. Plus I've heard various opinions regarding one wire vs three wire alternators and which is better, plus I lose my tach unless I want to spend $250 as you saw before. I figured keeping it original was worth it to me, but on the other hand...
Here is a good explanation of the difference between one and three wire alts. 

http://bob_skelly.home.comcast.net/~bob_skelly/alternator_conversion/wiring_alternator1.html


----------



## Ultradog

Here's the deal on alternators vs generators.
Generators suck. Alternators don't.
Alternators will last just about forever. Generators not so much. Plus, you need a voltage regulator for your generator and the ones you get today are just not very reliable. I've heard of guys replacing a Vreg 3 times in a year because they failed.
Putting an alternator on your tractor depends a lot on what year your tractor is.
The older engines had a screw in plug on top of the oil pump drive gear. The newer ones had a press in plug like a frost plug.
If you have the press in plug then it is fairly easy - but not cheap to convert it to an alternator and still have a tach.
With the press in plug you can remove it and then install a new drive gear from a 3600. New gear has a square hole in the top to drive the tach. You can kinda see it in the photo.










Drop that in and then you need a tach drive - likewise from a 3600.








.

Now you need a new tach - from a 3600.
Notice the tach has the zero on the left and not the right.










Next buy yourself a cheap Delco 10SI alternator.
You can wire them either 1 wire or 3 wire.
Both work fine. But the 3 wire has advantages. First, it lets you reuse your idiot light so you know if it is charging. Second, it starts charging as soon as you start your engine. One wire needs to be revved up to about 1000 rpms before it starts charging. Not a big deal.










Lastly, you will need to either change the voltage stabilizer on the back of the new tach cluster to the old one. That's the little square can thing in the photo.










Or you can drill and tap the hole in the front of the head for the new 3600 style temp sender to 1/4 pipe thread instead of the original 1/8" pipe thread.










For some good info on 10SI alternators and a very easy diagram on how to wire a 3 wire 10 SI go here.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/Delco_Alternators.html


----------



## GFC Firefighter

Will the delco 10si 3 wire bolt up to existing generator mounts? 

Also what is the wiring diagram?


----------



## Ultradog

GFC Firefighter said:


> Will the delco 10si 3 wire bolt up to existing generator mounts?
> 
> Also what is the wiring diagram?


I could give some info, maybe even find a couple of photos.
But since my last post was never read, or at least acknowledged, I wonder if it is worth it.


----------



## Fedup

Ultradog said:


> I could give some info, maybe even find a couple of photos.
> But since my last post was never read, or at least acknowledged, I wonder if it is worth it.


He may not be paying attention, but I'm sure others are. Personally, I never use one wire alternators. I've come across too many that have developed diode problems, and though they may charge well enough, they can drain a battery when left unused for a week or so. I can see the attraction for those who may not have the "savvy" (or the ambition)to properly wire up a three wire, but the three wire is far more dependable.


----------



## GFC Firefighter

I am paying attention...just forgot about that link.


----------



## GFC Firefighter

How is the top bracket made for the alternator??


----------



## GFC Firefighter

I bought some brackets from yesterday tractor..

They are the same ones in this picture. Top one won't fit. The bottom one pushes the alternator out too far.


----------



## Fedup

Yes, most conversion kits don't tell you that the Delco needs a curved top adjustment strap. I've installed any number of such kits, and don't think I have ever seen one that didn't require some(maybe a lot of) modification and/or fabricating to get things to fit, work, and adjust. Belt alignment is usually a problem as well.


----------



## GFC Firefighter

Thinking of using stock top bracket with the new top bracket.


----------



## GFC Firefighter

Ok I got the alternator on..rigged the top bracket. Had to cut and reels bottom bracket.

I think I got the wiring correct but don't know for sure. I have pictures Below showing how I got it wired. I tried following the link ultradog posted but the one wire that runs to the dummy light got me confused.

What wires exactly goes on each terminals on the key switch?


----------



## Fedup

The white wire in question needs to go the the charge indicator light. With the key on, there should be a circuit to supply power to the gauge cluster. There will be battery voltage to the voltage stabilizer which in turn supplies the fuel and temp gauges. There is also a common feed to the warning lights(oil pressure, charge indicator, and air filter restriction). The charge light is usually on the far left of the panel. The ground/load side of this light should go the white wire in your photo of the alternator. This wire probably goes to the existing regulator at this point since you're replacing a generator. Once you locate the right wire, test the circuit by turning the key on and grounding the wire. The battery light should illuminate. If so, then connect this to the white wire in the alternator pigtail. 
As for the red wire you have tied to the alternator output post -- this wire is the sensing wire. The internal regulator monitors system voltage and controls alternator output via this wire. This circuit can often produce a draw and run the battery down over time, so I prefer to supply this with a switched circuit whenever possible. On diesel tractors this is no problem, but on gas tractors it may require a diode so the alternator output doesn't feed the ignition circuit after the key is turned off.


----------



## GFC Firefighter

Gotcha. Well I got it connected to what I figured was the wire for the light. I'll do like you say. I notice the charging light doesn't come on at start or even while having the ignition on but the oil pressure light turns on when key it on and also in the run position when tractors running for a second then it turns off. Wondering if I have the white wire hooked up to the oil pressure wire now?

Also do you know which wires go on each terminal on back of the key switch? I seem to can't find it. I know I can turn my tractor on but I have to turn the key back to one click so the starter doesn't stay engaged..but the cluster still works with that one click back. Now if I turn it all the way back the cluster won't work.


----------



## Fedup

Key switch is a grey area on many tractors. Too many switches to choose from, not all pin patterns are the same. Your switch may or may not be original or even exact replacement of original, so wiring diagrams won't always match. I never trust diagrams here, just check each terminal with a test light to determine what's what and go from there. 
As for charge light -- it should come on with the key same as oil light. If not, something's still not right.


----------



## poppinjohn

I replaced existing 3-wire alternator with new one on 1970 ford 3000 diesel. when i reconnected battery, the battery idiot light came on with switch off. When turning key to on position, the battery light goes off and the rest of the instrument cluster functions normally, such as low oil pressure light is on and gauges work. What am I missing?


----------



## Hacke

poppinjohn said:


> I replaced existing 3-wire alternator with new one on 1970 ford 3000 diesel. when i reconnected battery, the battery idiot light came on with switch off. When turning key to on position, the battery light goes off and the rest of the instrument cluster functions normally, such as low oil pressure light is on and gauges work. What am I missing?


Hi poppinjohn, welcome to the forum.

I think you have mixed up the two wires for sensing and warning light.
Did you change any connection at the key switch?
What alternator is the new one?


----------



## poppinjohn

Thanks for the reply Hacke. I did not change any wires at the switch. The original alternator wiring may have been crossed being that I just acquired this Ford 3000. I will double check the sensing and warning light wires. The new alternator is a WEI 3-wire 62 amp. This tractor has no lights or accessories. Just basic wiring harness.


----------

