# Ford 2000 losing power after warming up



## ar_confederate (Jul 20, 2015)

I need some advice. I have a 1967 Ford 2000. This Spring I replaced the coil with a Petronix and plan to upgrade to electronic ignition but haven't yet. (The grass caught me and knowing that whatever I do will take time because I'm certain that I will have to redo some of it.)

Anyway, it did fine for a while but two weeks ago, I added fuel and started mowing. After a few minutes, it started losing power. I figured it was fuel and drained the tank and replaced the fuel filter just off the tank. The fuel looked clean. I drained the carb bowl and it was clean, no water. I added fresh fuel and some additive to absorb any water. Ran it again, same problem. Loosened the gas cap, no change.

It will idle all day, it will power the PTO all day so long as not in gear. When it's in gear, it looses power after it warms up and eventually will only creep along in 1st gear. Any other gear and it will die. Pulling the choke out will kill it. Could it be the transmission? That's probably my next check but I'm rapidly running out of ideas. I don't have any diagnostic tools and the manual for it is worthless for troubleshooting. Thanks!


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

ar_confederate said:


> I need some advice. I have a 1967 Ford 2000. This Spring I replaced the coil with a Petronix and plan to upgrade to electronic ignition but haven't yet. (The grass caught me and knowing that whatever I do will take time because I'm certain that I will have to redo some of it.)
> 
> Anyway, it did fine for a while but two weeks ago, I added fuel and started mowing. After a few minutes, it started losing power. I figured it was fuel and drained the tank and replaced the fuel filter just off the tank. The fuel looked clean. I drained the carb bowl and it was clean, no water. I added fresh fuel and some additive to absorb any water. Ran it again, same problem. Loosened the gas cap, no change.
> 
> It will idle all day, it will power the PTO all day so long as not in gear. When it's in gear, it looses power after it warms up and eventually will only creep along in 1st gear. Any other gear and it will die. Pulling the choke out will kill it. Could it be the transmission? That's probably my next check but I'm rapidly running out of ideas. I don't have any diagnostic tools and the manual for it is worthless for troubleshooting. Thanks!


Did you check the air intake?


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## jerry l elven (Mar 2, 2008)

*Power loss*

My AC WD did the same thing turned out to be some rust or crap in the fuel tank partially blocking the flow of fuel. Removed and cleaned tank, end of troubles


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Exactly with which Petronics components did you replace the ignition coil?

The reason I ask is that if you installed their coil alone it still must use the dropping OEM resistor line same as the OEM coil or it will overload the coil and result in ignition coil voltage drop as the load on the ignition increases. 

If you also installed the second strike ignition box it must be installed exactly as specified in the instructions for non-HEI ignition types, and the OEM points and capacitor must be in excellent condition to handle the extra impedance or the capacitor fails under load.


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## ar_confederate (Jul 20, 2015)

Well, I checked the air flow and it's fine. I replaced the air filter late last year and it's still clean, no obstructions that I could see in the housing. 

I used the "Flamethrower" coil. I didn't see a ballast resistor on the wiring diagram so I didn't use one. Just to be on the safe side, I ordered a replacement original type coil and a new condenser. I hate just throwing parts at something but since you mentioned it, I remember that it was running rough like it might not be hitting on all the cylinders. Thanks for the advice. If this doesn't work, I'll take another look at the gas tank. It will be a few days before the parts come in.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

I think you have a fuel delivery problem. Have you checked your fuel screens?? These old Fords have a number of fuel screens if they have't been removed by previous owners.

1. There's a fuel screen attached to the shut-off valve that protrudes up into the tank. Check the fuel tank for debris on bottom at the same time, as jerry l elven suggested.

2. There's a fuel screen in the top of the sediment bowl (if applicable). 

3. There's a fuel screen in the inlet of the lift pump (if applicable)

4. There's a fuel screen attached to the inlet elbow of the carburetor.

5. Also, if you have a inline fuel filter installed, it may be designed for a fuel pump, and may not pass sufficient fuel.

6. Also, your fuel cap vent may be plugged to the extent that it restricts flow.


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## ar_confederate (Jul 20, 2015)

Well, I guess that I have an answer but I'm not sure exactly how it works. I found that I had a spark plug wire that wasn't holding on the plug. I went in and crimped it and now the tractor is working as well as I can expect from a 50 year old tractor. Not sure that I understand why it worked for a few minutes and then started acting up but I can't argue with the results.


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