# Ford 4000 diesel died Part #2



## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Past post "Ford 4000 diesel died?" Thought we had it fixed but when I went out to work it started to start but it died immediately.

To sum it up:
Bought tractor, Started it every day than found fuel leak in diesel Fuel line (Pic #1).
Repaired and found other leaks,
Cold start heater inlet tube (pic#2), 
Tube to leak off line (Pic #3), 
Tube from Cold start inlet to Reservoir (Pic #4).
Replaced fuel filter.
Bleed system and finally got it started.
Next day, hard to start,Would crank but no start, had to jump, Started. Ran for around 3 Hours. Shut it off, Started 2 hours later, no problem, ran for 15 minutes and died. Cracked injectors and air was in lines. Found o ring in line from fuel filter to fuel pump bad(Pic #5).
Also replaced Pump bleeder screw.
Bleed system got to start. Next day same thing, no start, cracked injectors and got air.
*
Any suggestions?*

I checked to make sure lines are tight. I really don't want to bleed the lines every day that I need to use it. That's hard on the battery and starter.

I probably shouldn't have done this but i posted this in Ford/New Holland area as well as repair area due to my frustration of this problem and no replies as of yet from the ford area. If this was a no-no I wont do it again.:dazed:


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Having read a number of your posts, and many responses, I will offer a few thoughts. 
The leak mentioned as #1 and pictured in your first photo is probably the only one that would affect performance. I doubt this would affect starting if all else were correct. I expect it would start normally and then act up( maybe quit) after a few seconds or even minutes. Maybe act up under load or otherwise during operation. The other leaks pictured are just that - leaks. They may make a mess, but pose no operational issues. 
Based on what I've read so far, I feel your current problem is within the injection pump itself. IF, and I say IF the only place you find air is in the injector lines, there is very little you can do from the outside. While running, fuel travels through each line at nozzle opening pressure. After injection flow stops that pressure drops slightly. At the next firing pulse the pump forces fuel into the line increasing the trapped pressure back up to nozzle opening pressure and injection occurs again. With the engine off(overnight or for days and weeks) that fuel remains trapped in the lines under pressure until starting is again attempted. In theory, that pressure will eventually bleed down, but hopefully not the fuel. It may take a few revolutions of cranking to build that pressure back up, but it SHOULD happen. In this case I suspect it's not happening. I think the trapped pressure and fuel are bleeding off internally(no visible leaks) so the bleeding becomes necessary again the following day. 
IF this is what's happening, I suggest having the injection pump removed and repaired as needed.


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

I'd bet dollars to donuts your problem is that rubber hose "fix" in picture #1.
I've tried many MANY times to do that same fix on supply lines to injector pumps on lots of different
makes of tractors and almost always wind up with the system getting air pulled into it.

I do understand that you have a gravity fed fuel system, but that round housing on the back of your injection pump where the supply line hooks is still a transfer pump and it WILL suck air even though the system is gravity fed. Air is thinner than fuel and while it may not leak fuel to the outside, it can still leak air to the inside.

Just my opinion, hope it helps.

Mark


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

TraderMark:

Ant ideas on how to stop air or just tighten the sh*t out of it?


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

You could try putting sealant externally on both ends of the hose to prevent air entry into the system. My tractor has one solid steel tube for this function.....no hose splice.


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

If it's just a small hole or crack in and otherwise solid line, I'd take it off and take it to a welding shop and have it brazed. If the line has been cut into two pieces at some point in its life, I'd replace it with a new line.

Good luck.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Forgot to EXCLUDE the lines going from the inj. pump to the injectors.. those are metal to metal sealing surfaces. Just the lines from the filter in/out and to the inj. pump inlet have rubber olives.. Its VERY COMMON for them to suck air and NOT LEAK fuel.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

replaced all o rings. 3 of them.


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