# Ford 2600 Cooling system circulation question



## ImaFarmin (Jul 29, 2012)

:usa:
Hi, my name is Stephanie. Im from KY. I have a 1975 Ford 2600 3 cyl gas. Heres what is going on with it. After 2 rounds of bush hogging in a 15 acre pasture its starting to run hot according to the gauge. At an idle I can not see any circulation in my radiator at all. If I raise my RPM's to around 2000 or above it will circulate slowly. I have flushed the radiator and checked all the hoses. It took some effort but I did finally get the air out of the system when I filled it back up. Its not running out the over flow even after the 2 rounds around the field. What I am wondering is, how much water movement should I see at an idle and after how much time from a cold start? Im trying to figure out whether to blame the old gauge, the water pump or the thermostat. All input will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Welcome TF.
Have you clean radiator fins,also fan belt good shape/snug?
Could try running w/out thermostat but no long.
Radiator hose not collapsing once tractor reaches high temp.


----------



## ImaFarmin (Jul 29, 2012)

I have cleaned and straightend all the fins. The hoses are not collapsing. The belt is new and tight. I will pull the thermostat and try running it without it. I will let you know what happens..


----------



## ImaFarmin (Jul 29, 2012)

Okay, I took the thermostat out. It circulated great and the temp gauge ran right in the middle where it normally would. Guess this means I need a new thermostat, correct?


----------



## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Does thermostat look gummy/slugh..maybe good cleaning.
If spring,does it feel weak?

I'd purchase new themostat..one less problem when in back 40.


----------



## ImaFarmin (Jul 29, 2012)

The thermostat looks fairly new. Its a 170 but I put it in a pan of water and it only opened slightly at boiling. It never opened all the way. I will pick one up in the morning. I will post when I have the new one in and let you know how shez doing. Thanks for helping a girl out!


----------



## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Were all in this together..and your welcome.


----------



## ImaFarmin (Jul 29, 2012)

Well I finally found time to put the new thermostat in. Seems I am right back to the same problem. The water is circulating better but it acts like it is loaded with air. I did flush it out while I had the thrermo out. Any trick to bleeding the air? Just in case thats my probelm.


----------



## nhtech (Mar 25, 2012)

ImaFarmin said:


> Well I finally found time to put the new thermostat in. Seems I am right back to the same problem. The water is circulating better but it acts like it is loaded with air. I did flush it out while I had the thrermo out. Any trick to bleeding the air? Just in case thats my probelm.


I normaly use a tool called "air lift tool". It puts the cooling system in a vacuum and sucks in the coolant. No air guaranteed. Maybe you can borrow one from a local shop. Also check your rad cap. The upper rad hose should stay cool until the engine reaches operating temp. The you should feel a rapid increase in temp. The use of an infrared thermometer helps a lot. Also your pulleys could be worn or your water pump simply does not move enough water. Good luck and let me know what you find.


----------



## ImaFarmin (Jul 29, 2012)

Let me go more into detail about what it doing. At an idle and at a higher RPM it is circulating fine then it will stop the water will rise in the radiator neck and if I shake the tractor air will come out and the level will lower and circulate again. Second strange thing. At a higher RPM it will circulate and tiny bubbles that look like boiling water are coming to the top. However even though the temp gauge says its running hot I can stick my finger in the water and it doesn't feel that hot. This is making me think that there is air trapped in the block and the water is really not circulating through the block.


----------



## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Possibly a head gasket leak, or a cracked head. Combustion gas gets into the cooling system. Causes overheat problems and bubbles in the coolant. 

There is a test kit you can purchase to check for combustion gasses in the coolant, at auto parts stores. I bought a test kit one time to check my daughter's car and it tested positive. Had to replace the head gasket, and pressure test the head. I took the head to a machine shop to have it checked out and pressure tested. 

The test is not difficult to do. The test kit is not cheap (~$45), but if you have such a leak, you might as well find out about it.


----------



## ephotrod (Aug 24, 2013)

Does anyone have the part number for this thermostat and gasket. (Part Number that interchanges at the local parts store.)


----------



## Big_T (Dec 1, 2011)

See attached diagram. There are 4 thermostats listed. See item #10. Scroll down for part numbers.

For a gas engine, 168*F is normally the right choice.

For a diesel engine 188*F is the better choice. Diesels are more efficient at the higher temperature.


----------

