# First post, started working on my 5665



## BowtieBandit (May 20, 2014)

Hello everybody! This is my first post. I purchased 2 gravely 5665 last fall and I am hoping to get one working tractor out of them. 

So here it is. I got (2) 5665 walk behinds. One has the quick hitch and had the big power brush, the other has a brush hog. I paid 600 for all of it. It was dark and I didn't have a good look at them but the owner assured me they ran great until he put them in the shed 5 years ago. I knew there was a lot of work to do but the price was great.

Boy oh boy I should have spent more for one that was running. The next morning I could see that if these were really kept in the shed then then the shed must not have had a roof haha. Lots of rust, lots of great tractor. I realized I might only get 1 working tractor out of the two.

I didn't need the power brush so I sold it on craigslist for 200. So in the end I paid 200 each for these tractors. I just hope I have what it takes to get them working.

So, I hope you have patience with me as I may have a lot of questions. I have been keeping an eye and reading these forums for months preparing myself for this. 

Here is the first question. 

I got 2 flat wheels that don't hold air (one on each tractor). I want to take one off to repair/replace them. I got new tubes that match the specifications of the tractor as well. However, I can't get the wheel itself off the tractor. There is a big bolt. Possibly over 1 inch, a square nut going into the side at an angle of the shaft, and (3) 9/16 bolts. Which one of these do I undo to get the wheel off? I took off the 3 9/16 bolts and now I think those are holding the rim together. Any help would be great.

Here is the second question.

I needed a battery and went to tractor supply to get a tractor batter that was 12v. Once I got home I noticed on these forums and other places that the best battery is just a plain ol' car battery. Should I return the battery I got and get me a car battery? The manual says to use a 12v 42 amp battery. I don't see the amperage specification on any battery I look at. Some help on this topic would also be appreciated. 

Thanks in advance.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you got a couple of great tractors there. Post a few pictures so we can see what you have, maybe we'll be able to help. 
In the mean time as far as the battery goes, you should be more concerned about the dimensions of the battery and having one that will fit your application. for the wheels, maybe this picture will help.


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## Beaner2u (Jan 9, 2014)

Pogo's illustrated parts photo is great, but we need to know if your wheels and tires are tubeless or tubed. That is what's shown in that diagram.

Does your setup look like the upper part of the previous post or the lower part?

As far as the battery goes, I agree with Pogo again. Get a car battery of the same physical size and with the positive/negative posts in the correct position for your cables.

Roger,


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## BowtieBandit (May 20, 2014)

So sorry I didn't get back sooner. I have had a very busy week. Anyhow, I love pogo's images. I have the wheel on the top I beleive. But I can't seem to get the wheel off of it. I took the 3 bolts out. Do you think it might just be rusted on? The only thing I know these tractors have is rust haha. 

Today I tried to get one going and all I hear when I turn the key is a clicking sound. Even when the spark plug is disconnected. Also I show the picture of the directional lever arm. It's way out of whack. When I go to put it in forward or reverse the arm does not move. I/m sure it just needs to be adjusted but right now the wheels only move in the opposite direction of each other.

There is tons of work here guys. I am pretty discouraged now. I made a list of all the things I know need work and it scares me because I know very little which makes me feel for every single thing that I know needs to be fixed there are probably 5 things that I don't know about. I made a list of things that need work though.

Gear hi-lo lever ass. needs adjusting, everything moves freely but the jam nuts must not be in the right place.
Same thing with the direction control lever assembly.
The throttle control is seized, it moves, the carb moves, but the wire that runs between it seems seized. I'm sure it's rust. 
Carburetor seems to function correctly but there is no animation from controls. Again I think rust has caused all the connecting linkages to work.
Throttle knob is froze solid, no movement at all. 

Rust seems to be the contributing factor. The ignition switch was locked up and the key rusty but I was able to get that working with a blast of wd40 (my new best friend) But the assembly seems upside down as in it turns the opposite direction.

::sigh::

Oh yeah, and the flat tires that I can't even seem to get off the tractor (seems like the easiest part).


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## BowtieBandit (May 20, 2014)

So, I have learned a lot in the last three days. The wheels are rusted solid, that's why I can't get it off. Everything is rusted solid on the tractor with the brush hog on it. I guess I just kind of grabbed one at random to try and repair. Looking at the other gravely (picture 2) I have realized that it is a much better candidate for repair. Nothing is rust seized other than the carb choke control lever. There are some minor parts missing but they are all on the other tractor. 

My question now is about the direction control lever assembly (pic 3). I tried adjusting the jam nut but it still will not engage into forward or reverse. Currently the tires spin in opposite directions and it is a PITA to move. Both tractors suffer from this same problem. Anyone know if turning the jam nuts is the right way to go about this? I played around with it and it hasn't much helped.


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## BowtieBandit (May 20, 2014)

Double post.


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## Beaner2u (Jan 9, 2014)

BowTie, 

In your picture three you have both springs fully compressed and the tractor should move forward.

To start I have to ask a question. 

Is the Kohler engine running?

You have removed something called the quick hitch in picture two and that does keep something called a pinion shaft in place. The pinion shaft transfers power from the high/low gearing to the forward/reverse gearing. Without the quick hitch assembly in place the pinion shaft may have moved forward about an inch, if that happens you loose the transfer of power from H/L to F/R.

With the best of intensions we often jump on the opportunity to buy something with a good reputation at a good price, but later find out that we have purchased a well worn piece of equipment.

What do you know about the history of the tractors you purchased? Who used them for what?

Can you tell us where you are located, we might find you some knowledgeable help near by.

Roger


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## BowtieBandit (May 20, 2014)

Thanks for the reply.

These were used by a landscaper up until 5 years ago. He assured me proper care was always given to them. I see by the clean oil that they were. He said they were stored in the shed. I can only imagine that one of them must have been under a leak in the roof if that were true.

The one I have decided to be the one to work with is the one in picture 2. It wants to start but has no gas in it. 662 hours on the meter. I want to take more pictures of it when I get home. The control levers seem to me to not move much and my only concern right now is if I start it up it will be stuck in forward.

I live in a small city in central massachusetts called Leominster. My car mechanic assures me he can make it run right if I can't, but with flat tires it has been nearly impossible to move. I now feel confident in my purchase and I know I can resurrect this sleeping beast from its slumber. If you know a gravely guy in the area please feel free to let me know. I heard there is a guy in Gardner but I haven't had any luck finding him.

In the end, I can look back and be happy with my purchase. I paid 600 for them and sold the big power brush for 200. So I only reallc paid 400 for the two. I just need to get her running to tackle the brush in my yard :] I look forward to its operation.


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## Beaner2u (Jan 9, 2014)

Used by a landscaper you say...

They may have kept up with the oil changes but when H/L gearing wears out that is a very expensive fix. Clutch cups wear from a lot of use but are cheaper and easier to replace.

The two shifting levers on the sides of the chassis mover very little in actual use. From high to low the left lever should only move about an inch at the end where the rod goes through the springs, and the same for the right side with forward/reverse.

If the lever will not move then the clutch actuating shaft may be stuck, the cross shaft inside the chassis. If the levers move too much, the may be loose or missing a key between shaft and lever.

The forward/reverse clutch cup is fairly easy to change, just a lot of nuts and bolts to remove. This video is for changing a F/R clutch cup in an older C model but the procedure
is the same for your 5000.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmz4H8L-4wA[/ame]

Roger,


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## BowtieBandit (May 20, 2014)

WOW! Thanks Roger!

Yeah, I really felt those arms had to move more than they do. I only get about 3/4 inch of movement. So I feel great about that now. Really great videos you have there. I really want to sit down when I have more time and go through them. 

This particular machine I am working on was only used for the power brush. 

You have made me feel even better now. Once I get this stupid wheel situation taken care of I might be in luck to start it right up. Who knew changing a tire would be so involved. I certainly thought split rim wheels were easier to change. 

How do you handle changing tubes in your tire? Mine has been a real pain. The old rubber seemed glued on and it even took my buddy at the garage 30 minutes to get it off. I took it home and brushed most of the rust off and painted it. I really thought it would be easy to fix the tire. The easiest part I thought. 

Best regards,
Steven


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## Beaner2u (Jan 9, 2014)

Steven,

I own more than one Gravely, and work on a few more.

I bought one of the cheapie tire changers from Harbor Freight. Breaking the bead loose from a rusted up split rim can be a real job. I have one wheel hub dedicated to tire changes, you need a wheel hub on the tire changer in order to hold a spilt rim while working on it. 

I would hate to think about changing a old weathered tubeless tire from a tubeless rim.

Roger,


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