# dead 82 Ford 2610 3 cy Diesel



## bytetek (Dec 1, 2014)

I acquired it after a fire; and, among many other parts, I replaced the entire fuel system (tank thru injectors). That was about 3 years (aprox 80 proof hours) ago. Although it’s always hard to start in the cold it’s ran reliably since. Recently it sputtered and died. It had been running for about 10 minutes. I had noted it seemed to be smoking more but not sure. It was low on fuel but not out. 
Diagnostics yesterday (75°F) as follows: 
•	It hadn’t over heated
•	Checked to insure Engine Stop cable was in and not binding
•	Added fresh diesel
•	Replaced fuel filter (no evidence of trash or water)
•	Checked air filter(s) (still clean)
•	Opened both Fuel-In lines at injector pump – fuel flows
•	Cracked injector line at 1 injector – fuel flows when cranked
Then I had to recharge the battery. Between most steps started it using starting fluid but it would not keep running w/o more starting fluid.

I plan to test for fuel at each injector (when it warms up) to see if all 3 are about the same when cranking. I fear it is the Rotary CAV injector pump… but after about 80 hours! I’ve no knowledge how to diagnose further other than remove the injector pump and take it to an expensive specialty shop. Am I missing something?


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Hello Bytetek,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland forum.

Most likely the tank got low enough to allow air entry into the fuel system. I've learned to NEVER do that again! My tractor can be a PITA to get started if I run it out of fuel, or if the filter gets plugged. Attached is a procedure originally posted by Jerry/MT on the YT Forum. I’ve added a few things, but it’s the best detailed bleeding procedure that I’ve seen.

How long has it been since your fuel filter was changed?? Might be a good time to change it.
____________________________________________________________________

Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen. 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

Your pump may have a bleeder screw. If so, open that until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. Otherwise loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittngs in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up. If your tractor is like mine, you are in for a PITA experience to get it started. Don't give up - just keep trying. It'll start and run fine.


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## bytetek (Dec 1, 2014)

Harry 16:
It is possible air got into the system. My brain must be calcifying ‘cause I don’t remember things as I used to. Your post left me wondering about where the screw was to bleed the pump. I went digging around in my tractor folder and found the service manual. Paragraph 104 describes w/pictures the procedure!
Why I didn’t remember I bought the manual back in ’09 is beyond me. There is no way I’d been able to rebuild that tractor (I bought it burnt up pretty bad) without the service manual. In fact it is the 1st diesel I’d ever worked on and I’m really just a shade tree mechanic.
I’ll probably wait till the weekend so I can have extra hands and eyes for the process. I pray this is the issue.


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## CaptainWayne (Apr 23, 2016)

I am getting water in the oil. changed the oil and filter and ext day right back in it. Most common problem - Head-gasket right? Would there be a simpler problem? Of course it could be cracked head or block, but not likely. Any other answers?


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello CaptainWayne,

Welcome to the tractor forum.

What tractor are you talking about? Diesel or gas? The reason I ask is that diesels are vulnerable to a pinpoint corrosion process in the cylinder walls called cavitation. If you haven't treated the coolant with corrosion inhibitor specifically designed to combat cavitation, you might have a more serious problem. All diesels are vulnerable to cavitation, but the old Ford diesels are at the top of the list.

Most likely, your problem is a leaking head gasket, cracked head, maybe block, but if you haven't taken care of the cooling system, cavitation is also a possibility.


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