# backhoe needs help



## FCB (Jun 1, 2010)

First time user to this site. My old IH 2500b backhoe is getting tired and dose not want to move anymore. It has a standard clutch and trans, 4 speed with a high and low range( 8 forward gears and 4 in reverse). It started loosing power to the rear wheels and would only work if the RPM's were up. Then it started to only move when you reved the motor and after a few seconds it would take off with lots of power until you pushed in the clutch. Then you have to sit there with the motor reving until it would move again. Now it dosent move at all. I found a piece of an o-ring in the hydraulic oil filter. Not sure if this tractor has a hydrostatic drive or is the clutch the problem. Can anyone help me with this? Brad


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

If you have the dual shifters (4 gears, one for forward/reverse) then you have the synchromesh trans which is a traditional gear tranny. The hydro's had a shifter lever on the dash that gave you infinite speed adjustments. I'd say the clutch is shot, or covered in oil. My 574 (basically the same model) had a leaky rear main seal that covered the clutch in oil. Eventually it will slip pretty badly.

That O-ring you found is probably from somewhere in the hydraulic system. Could be from anywhere, I'd start looking anywhere you have a leak. Our 574 had issues with the o-rings under the one diverter valve that sits directly under the seat. The o-rings would disintegrate and end up in the system.


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## FCB (Jun 1, 2010)

Thanks for the info!!! 

It looks like you have some nice equipment to tinker with. I'm finding out it is hard to find parts, I have an austin western 99H that requires some TLC periodically.

So what think you're saying is, I do have one shifter for the gears (1 thru 4), and one for the low/high and reverse which confirms a standard trans? 

I can put the tractor in gear without pushing the clutch. I was thinking it had a hydro drive behind the trans that was not engaging and with the motor reved for 20-30 seconds it would finally build pressure and go with lots of power. I could push dirt easily until I had to push the clutch or let off the throttle. To get it to move again, you had to start all over with the high rpm. Apparently what I have is a very bad clutch and need to split the case. 

I noticed an inspection plate under the clutch housing. I'll remove it tomorrow and see if I can see any fluid in there. Thank Brad


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Your pressure plate (the thing that squeezes the clutch plate against the flywheel) may be bad as well. If the springs are shot, it won't put pressure on the plate, and you won't move. If the clutch looks okay, it is possible that there is damage internally in the trans. Ours has had some cracked gears and chipped teeth over the last 38 years, but then again, it got worked *hard* on our farm.


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## jackson101 (Apr 1, 2011)

*clutch*

I have the 2514B version, with reverser transmission. I could actually look through the clutch inspection plate and see the 10-spline shaft "stall" when a load was applied to the rear wheels. Ya, I was under the tractor looking through the inspection window with the tractor running and drive engaged. Had the outriggers extended, rear wheels off the ground, simply had someone push the brake pedal and all became clear. Otherwise, you have to start looking at the reverse/forward pump and the clutch baskets/linkage/valving asssociated with for. and rev.


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## 1bgguy (Dec 24, 2011)

Hello, I just bought my 2514d-b. When I put "ih 2514 d-b" into the computer your posts come up. You seem like you are familiar with the reverser trans, and i think thats where I am having trouble with my machine. There might also be clutch trouble. I started by changing both the hyd. filters along with the fluid. It made the hoe and bucket seem to operate faster. The machine will move front, but not reverse. The lower the gear the better it will move. It also seems like it is tight somewhere like the brakes might be hanging up. Any help would be appreciated. I'll see if the kids can help me with pictures.


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## jackson101 (Apr 1, 2011)

*trans. trouble*

Sounds like it might be the clutch. Do you have the service manual for it? You'll also need to check the pressure that "locks" the drive shaft, to engage fwd/rev.
Let's start with the first step
1.) You need to check the pressure that locks the the drive shaft to the drive gears. Under your tractor, located on your transmission bottom, you'll find a 1/2" thick plate approx. 6" x 8" w/ 6-3/8" bolts holding it to the bottom of the trans. on this plate you'll see a 3/8" NPT plug. When the plug is removed (tractor not running) you may install a pressure gauge.

2.) When you remove the plug to install the pressure gauge, you'll lose a little fluid. The gauge should be "hydraulic" gauge and read to at least 300 PSI. Install the gauge.

3.) With the gauge installed ,..start the tractor. Observe the gauge reading (idling in neutral). The gauge must read between 225 and 290 PSI (I think, as I don't have the specs. in front of me) Anything significantly less than the "low " spec., suggest the relief spring may be compressed beyond it's limits or a worn pump. There is a pump mounted to the above mentioned plate, that supplies the pressure to lock the drive.

4.) If your showing pressure below specs., you'll need to shim the relief spring. This operation can be accomplished from the same plate, that you installed the gauge on. No dis-assembly required.

Get back to me on the results of this test and we'll go from there. If you decide to replace the clutch, remember to have the flywheel reconditioned as well, or you may be right back in the same position in very short order.


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## 1bgguy (Dec 24, 2011)

I will get started on that and let you know. I bought the ih 574 shop manual which seems a little helpful. I only have the operators manual for this machine.


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## jackson101 (Apr 1, 2011)

*manual*

OK, good. The manual will step you through the pressure test and give specs.


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## 1bgguy (Dec 24, 2011)

Hello again. I finally got some good weather and now its time to try working on this tractor. I looked for the plate underneath the tractor. The one that I found is about the right size but I think it has ten bolts holding it on. Also the plugs that are on it are the big drain plug, and a small plug that would probably be one eighth pipe thread, but it has an "o" ring on it. This plate is located right behind the two bolt clutch access plate. Hopefully this will be helpful. Also I jacked the tractor up with the riggers and ran it through the gears. The wheels turn forward in all the gears but not in reverse at all. Hope to hear from you soon!


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## jackson101 (Apr 1, 2011)

ya, good chance you'll find the pressure is good at the tap point. Your tractor behaves as if the clutch is out. There was a recent posting here that showed a fella with problems like yours. He split her and pulled the clutch and pressure plate. His pressure plate springs was "shot", springs had sprung. Mine would pull itself forward,...slowly, but rarely in reverse.


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## 1bgguy (Dec 24, 2011)

OK I put the tractor up on the riggers. I took the clutch access plate off. Had the boy leave the clutch out while I watched. I could see the clutch start turning with the pressure plate. Then as I watched I had him apply the brakes to stop the wheels from turning. When the wheels stopped turning the clutch continued to turn which makes me believe the slippage is somewhere else.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Did the actual clutch plate keep spinning? Or just the pressure plate assembly? The entire unit will spin, but the clutch plate may be stopping inside the unit. It would be almost impossible to tell with the engine running. With the engine off, see if you can see the clutch plate and check it for heat damage or signs of slipping.


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## jackson101 (Apr 1, 2011)

There's no reason to proceed, unless you did the pressure test described above. If the pressure test is good, the clutch has failed. If the pressure test fails,....badly,...make sure the PR spring is not broken or missing. The spring and relief valve are installed above one of those plugs on the bottom plate described above. Careful not to loose them when removing the plug. If your pressure is low, you may install an additional shim behind the spring, to increase the pressure. Be careful when you try this (adjusting pressure with shim) as it is very sensitive. .001" is equal to about 10-20 PSI. 
If you have the service manual, I suggest you starting reading,...if you don't,...let me know and I will get it to you.


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## 1bgguy (Dec 24, 2011)

I actually watched as he let up on the clutch pedal. As he did this the clutch plate started to turn with the rest of the clutch. Then when he applied the brakes the clutch plate continued to turn until he pressed on the clutch pedal again-then the plate stopped. I did not try the pressure test as I was a little confused with identifying the proper plug to do this on. My book is the I T international 574 repair manual.


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## jackson101 (Apr 1, 2011)

OK, give me an email address and I'll send you the service manual for a 2500B.


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## 1bgguy (Dec 24, 2011)

That would be very helpful! my email is; [email protected] Thank you.


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## jackson101 (Apr 1, 2011)

Did u ever get tothe bottom of this problem???


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