# What the heck is it??



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Finally got over to see the tractor I bought. Tried to start it but the starter won't turn it over so it getting rebuilt. It says 540 PTO but don't know if that's the model of the tractor or just the PTO.


----------



## ben70b (Aug 29, 2012)

When the needle on your tach lines up with the yellow line marking 2000 engine rpms your pto will be spinning at 540 rpms


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

540 is the working RPM of the pto .
I'm thinking it's probably a 580 ck conversion .


----------



## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

The injection pump looks like a CAV DPA..pics not to clear, if you get the #'s off the name tag, I'll be able to tell you what engine it is..
The #'s are to the right of the side cover.. DONT SCRAPE IT..
Go get a can of gasket/paint stripper, spray it on, wipe it off.. by the looks of things your gonna need it anyway.. Lol


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Yeah, it's going to get a lot of TLC including cleaning. I know it's a 4 cylinder and it has glow plugs but that's it. I'm looking for tires for it now as the rears are trashed. I appreciate any and all info for it. I up loaded the pic of the tag on the front loader which I thought originally was the model # but have been schooled so in that respect.


----------



## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

Looks like a case to me as well, the brake drum housing is a dead giveaway


----------



## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

580B is what I believe, but some of the photos make it difficult to tell, I am using what I remeber of the dash, the brakes, and the splitter


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

I've been looking at pics of the 580B and the frames aren't the same by the engine?


----------



## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

It's not a Case. The brake drum housing is different from a Case.
It's an IH from before the Case/IH merger. Probably an industrial tractor built on the lines of maybe a 454 or something similar. I noticed it does not have a PTO.
Can you get us a pic of the entire tractor from a little farther away so we can see the whole thing?

Mark

Mark


----------



## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

STILL waiting on the inj. pump name plate #'s..


----------



## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

The following pic is of an IH 2424 industrial tractor.
Is your tractor close to this one?


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

thepumpguysc said:


> STILL waiting on the inj. pump name plate #'s..


I can only mess with the tractor on the weekends as it's still at the previous owners house. Believe me I'm very frustrated by that problem but considering I only paid $400 for it and he's a friend I can't complain to much.


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

TraderMark said:


> The following pic is of an IH 2424 industrial tractor.
> Is your tractor close to this one?


The frame in the front looks simular but looking at the spec. I don't think that's what it is. 

Thanks guys for your patients, as I said I'm a total nugget when it comes to tractors. Now ask me about a Honda CBR1100XX or a 90's KTM dirt bike and I can probably help you.


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Well, it looks like a match has been found. These are from a for sale web site. https://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/farm-equipment/for-sale/10641481/international-3414


----------



## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

Glad you found it.
3414 was going to be my next guess.
They have a rather unique hood design.
That's why I asked about a pic of the entire tractor.
Congrats. Sounds like you got a great deal on it, too.

Mark


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Found out the starter is fried so is being rebuilt and will get it back tomorrow. Going over this weekend to hopefully get her started and checked out then the following wed. load her on a trailer and move her the 10 or so miles to my house.


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Well, I need to edit what I said earlier. It isn't a 3414 but a 1975 3444 so I'll be asking questions on it now that it's home here.


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Hmmmmm?????

http://www.tractorforum.com/f158/tractor-newby-kali-high-desert-33788/#post235052

Glad you finally got it home!


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

So more pics. The rear tires are liquid filled. Can liquid filled tires have tubes?


----------



## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

It has IH on the tach in the first set of pictures.


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Ok guys, I installed a new push button for the starter but need to ask a question. The starter button is on the left but there's a button on the right that if I don't push it in the starter won't turn over. Is that for the glow plugs and why does the starter keep turning even after I release both bottons? The engine hadn't started so is it because the soliniod is stuck because of the torque being applied?


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

OK, I found out that that is the glow plug button. How long should I hold it before cranking the engine?


----------



## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

about ten seconds on my case, 10 to 15 would be enough


----------



## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

YOU BETTER MAKE SURE the stop cable works, before you fire that thing up..
There is a fuel bleed by the name plate on the injection pump, 5/16 BOX END wrench.
Loosen the bleeder, spin the engine over, that will purge the air from the tank TO the inj. pump.. & tighten.. NOW, loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS and crank the engine & wait until fuel squirts out of there & retighten.. NOW start the engine.
Pull the throttle WIDE OPEN when trying to start.. Good luck.. TPG


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Got it started today as soon as it got in the 70's. Checked the glow plug switch and it works but was corroded so I replaced it. There's power going to the switch and obviously leaving the switch but it goes into something called resistor Assy indicator. I have no idea what it does. Is it some sort of a glow plug controller? I also need to rebuild or get rebuilt the top link Hyd cylinder for the 3 point. It's the button looking thing right below the Tach. Yes I know the battery is in a very picarious position but that's not where it's staying. Need to build a battery box to mount it on the fender.


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Traced power all of the way to the glow plugs and it's showing power on all 4 plugs so I guess my next step is to pull them one by one and put power to them to see if they glow.


----------



## farmertim (Dec 1, 2010)

Hi Desert silver if you peer through those holes in the button looking thing (that is your glow indicator) below the tacho, when you're pressing the glow button you will see a small coil start to glow dull red then get brighter, count off how long it takes to show any sign of glowing after you press the glow switch and that should be well and truly hot enough to start.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

DesertSilver said:


> Traced power all of the way to the glow plugs and it's showing power on all 4 plugs so I guess my next step is to pull them one by one and put power to them to see if they glow.


DesertSilver you could just use a multimeter set on OHMS to get a circuit reading to save pulling the glow plugs, place the positive probe onto the contact on top of the glow plug and the negative probe to a good earth, if the glow plugs are ok you will get a reading on the meter, --- if there is a bridging power connector connecting all the glow plugs, this will have to be removed first otherwise you will get a false reading.

As a rule of thumb, we used to place our thumb over the glow plug heater indicator on the dash and when it became uncomfortable from the heat, we would then start the engine, no gloves on.

You asked about tubes in the rear wheels, yes, these can be filled with water, the valve connector is or should be in two sections, unscrew the smaller air connector out and you will have a larger filling opening for adding fluid, if you are going to fill the tubes with water or non freezing fluids, place the opening to the 12 O'clock position (wheel on tractor) and fill with a hose by pushing the hose over the valve, without the special connector to allow the air to escape, you will have to remove the hose every so often to allow the air to bleed out of the tube, when the tube has enough water inserted, remove the hose and allow the excess to bleed out with the valve in the 12 O'clock position, replace the air connection valve and inflate with 10 to 15 psi with air, to much air and you will be riding on bricks


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

The main reason I was asking if the rear tires with tube could have water in them is mine do and I desperately need new rears. The rpice difference between tubed and tubeless is around $200 and I just plain don't want to spend that much. Yeah I know, I'm a cheap skate but the way it's looking I might be giving it to my son in the next 2 months as I might be moving to eastern AZ.


----------



## DesertSilver (Apr 10, 2017)

Well, I'm back for some more advice. I'm blowing hyd. hoses left and right. They're the ones that came original when the tractor was built 40 or so years ago so it's to be expected but, the first one I replaces which was just a straight hose going to the bucket cylinder ended up being $50. I'm on SS insecurity and that's getting a little rich. Yeah I know, tractors can be expensive but what I'm asking is there some place that has good inexpensive hoses that doesn't cost an arm and a leg for shipping? I checked out discount hyd hoses and it's going to cost $19 just to ship one hose when the hose which I priced at the place I went for the first hose was going to cost $77 they want $34. Shipping is only $15 less than the hose.


----------



## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

Surplus Center has some inexpensive prefab hoses of good quality.
There are some drawbacks though. Both ends have to have the same fitting. There's no mix n match. The hoses are prefabbed to certain lengths. 6 inch increments up to 36" and then 12 inch increments from 36 inches up.

You can check them out here:

www.surpluscenter.com

Mark


----------



## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

My buddy had a Case 580B that had the same problem, kept blowing hoses every couple of months.. I told him they were about 100.00 apiece & he went to O'rielys auto parts & had them made for 35.00 each.. the actual OD was slightly bigger which made it a PITA to route & install but for a 75.00 savings, a few cuss words were all you needed.. 
GOOD INFO, TMark.. thanks.


----------

