# Building a 16x24 Shed



## dougand3

I've built (well, still kinda building) a 16x24 shed on a tight budget. Taken a long time because I scrounge for cheap or free stuff...yard sales, flea markets, neighbors, friends, dumpster diving, classifieds. Also, I did 99% of it by myself. Got $2400 in it.

Site was where previous homeowner had an above ground pool. Packed, level sand. Found the 8x8x16 blocks for .25 each (95). Used PT 2x4 as floor joists. Built in (4) 8x12 sections for ease of movement and economy of lumber. Very stable with so many foundation blocks.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_01.jpg">


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## dougand3

I tied the 4 sections together with 1/2" bolts.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_02.jpg">


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## dougand3

Subfloor is 3/4" PT plywood. Used 3 1/2" deck screws (also on the previous floor joists)...I like better than nailing.

The cat is the jobsite foreman...just looks and doesn't do squat to help.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_03.jpg">


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## dougand3

Wall studs up. I premade the headers when horizontal. Used the support studs as top plates later on. Bolted wall studs thru the floor joists with 1/2" bolts for strength.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_04.jpg">


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## jodyand

Looks good all them blocks should allow you to put alot of weight in it, but i see one problem you have the blocks the wrong way they should be turn over.
Jody


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## dougand3

Trusses up. I made them 2 sided (no bottom horizontal member) with strong gussets attaching them...I wanted a cathedral ceiling. Used the lawn tractor to pull 1/2' plywood roof decking over the center beam...very easy with someone guiding it up. Someone suggested it here...maybe Jody.


<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_05a.jpg">


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## dougand3

T1-11 siding up. Roof felt and asphalt. Windows are free storm windows put on inside. Doors are just cutouts framed.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_06.jpg">


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## dougand3

Stain on. Got 5 gal semi transparent mistinted redwood for $15 at home depot...added some brown pigment to tone down the red and give it more solid appearance. Got 4 carriage lights at flea market for $2. Painted them black.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_08.jpg">


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## dougand3

Put motion sensor floods on each gable end (also hooked the 4 carriage lights up to a motion sensor). Are 8 lights enough? Should I go for 12 or 16? LOL

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_09.jpg">


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## Chris

Nice --- How much did this building cost you to build?

Andy


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## dougand3

It's still cold in TN...need the kerosene heater. Got the cabinets, base unit and carpet from a construction job I was working...amazing what hospitals throw out because they wanted a different color.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_11.jpg">


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## Chris

Good work ---- How much you got into this building, Doug.

Really nice work --- How long has it taken you to complete this far? How many workdays?


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## dougand3

Facing north at the double doors. (previous interior was facing south). Put the essentials in...(2) 20 amp circuits, cable TV, phone, cat5 cable for internet...notice tractorforum.com on the monitor...LOL. Some other cost cutters...kitchen stool was $1, gable vents were $2 at ACE, box fans were free because they needed lubing, 3 night stands stacked at back left were free-dumpster diving.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_16.jpg">


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## Live Oak

Doug, you do some VERY VERY nice work! :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: When can you come up here to Land Between the Lakes and build mine:question: :question: :question:   Sharp lookin' shed.


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## dougand3

Door was free from a neighbor pulling...needed sanding/painting. The skylight was NOT planned. I cut the siding out for the door and put the door up and there was 6" of air...I'm like HUH?!?!? Hmmm...measure once and cut twice? Anyway, I found some plexiglass.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_18.jpg">


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## Fusion1970

That is a nice shed. Looks like you got a small fortune in kero heaters! It don't get that cold in TN, does it?  Anyway, congrats...now the fun part is filling it up with everything.

My shed is 16' x 14'. That extra 10' would come in real handy! Enjoy!

Greg


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## dougand3

Put a little roof over the double doors.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_24.jpg">


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## dougand3

Jody, yes, they are stronger the other way but I won't have much weight in there and I wanted less of a sinkage problem.

Andy, $2400. 6 months working sporatically....now, it was usable with roof on in 1 month. Oh, probably, 40 workdays solo.

Chief, thanks.

Greg, thanks. Lows in the 30s in early April....cold for us. The kero heaters were 3 for $10 at a flea market...2 needed wick adjustment/lube, one needed a $12 wick.

If you are real patient and like scrounging, you could do it for less. Me, I'd rather go to a flea market, yard sale than have an expensive dinner.


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## Chris

Amazing work there, Doug.

WOW!


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## jodyand

Man Doug it looks great you did a great job on it i like ti roof over the double door. Looks like yo have lots of room.
Jody


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## farmallmaniac

Like others have said you did a very splendid job on that shed :thumbsup: 
Ryan


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## Ingersoll444

Nice! I like the devided work/garage aera.


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## jbetts13

in the one pic what is the fan used 4 ????????? l'm more then have way on my shed what wounded if l need them ?


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## jodyand

> _Originally posted by jbetts13 _
> *in the one pic what is the fan used 4 ????????? l'm more then have way on my shed what wounded if l need them ? *


Hes using it as a vent fan to get the hot air out. Because as we all know hot air rises and the fan takes it out of the shed.
Jody


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## guest

Wow Duog.. spectacular.. 24*16 jeez, thats nice.. can i move in there? 


It looks like a little house.. very impressive.. 2 thumbs up for design, quality and looks...


:thumbsup: :thumbsup: 


Its even better that you built it yourself you know the quality is there...


really man, great job!!!


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## dougand3

Thanks, Andy, Jody, Paul, Ryan, sj. It was/is a fun project.

Jbetts, it gets hotter than heck in the top...Jody is right about exhausting the hot air. It's still spring cool enough now but I'm not sure these box fans at each gable end are going to do it in the summer. This past weekend, I picked up 2 powered roof vents for $2.50 each at a yard sale, one with brand new motor (that's a find as they are $60-$80 at hd or lowe's). They are on right on the wood pile behind the cart. One is pancake shape and one is rectangular. I think they would keep it cooler but the roof don't leak and I'm kinda reluctant to cut the roof. I shoulda put in a ridge vent but budget was tight at that stage.

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~dougand3/Shed/Shed_26.jpg">


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## guest

not to keep patting you on the back.. but 2600$ is great.. i had a 10*18 shed built for me it cost 2720$... it is not nearly as big as yours, plus yours has a better pitch and roof rafters (or whatever they are called), a door, walls, better windows... the difference in quality is very visible... 

again great job


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## Stewart

Nice shed! I like the lights on the end, so you can park the tractor after dark! I just bought some hooks so I can hold the doors open and the wind won't smack the doors around. The hooks have a safety catch you have to pull back to unhook the hook from the door. The wind here blows most all the time so they are a must have! Good work! :worthy:


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## leolav

I am planning a shed around same size as yours. I like your design. Mine won't have a computer workstation in it. I have my basement for that. 

Mine will be used for all my lawn equipment and for all those baby toys that are never used after the first week they have them.

I am guessing, but I think I can get it done in a few weekends? I have all the tools, etc. 

I am thinking of going with pressure treated 2 x 6 for the floor joist. I may put a Model A in their from time to time and want to make sure it doesn't go crashing to the ground.

I guess its all about the support.


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## Stewart

Why not put it on a concrete pad? That would definaltly support a car!


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## dougand3

Leolav, I agree with Stewart on a pad. I'd feel better with anything heavier than a garden tractor on a slab. 2x6 joists are expensive, too. Probably just 10-20% more for 4" poured concrete. 16'x24'x4" pad would be ~4.5 cubic yards. At $75 a yard = $337.50. Add in j-bolts to secure the wall framing and any prep work for the slab.


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## leolav

Not a foundation, but just a pad??

Hadn't even crossed my mind that that is a alternative. Only issue is that the area that I want to put it in is very unlevel. Blocks just seemed easier to level.

I could actually make the pad bigger (store boat, etc) and just use concrete anchors instead of the J bolts to secure building to pad??


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## guest

leo im doing a garage in a few weeks they are just putting a 4" slab down.. cheaper


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## leolav

Have em come down and pour mine at the same time. A tractor forum volume discount??????


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## Stewart

I think site prep is the key with either way. Dougs way looks great because he has a lot of support. If there wasn't it would really settle and jacking something like a shed up would not be fun!!! My shop is on a slab, in this part of the world they can get away with that. I think it is because of the soil. This clay rally packs down and is like concrete. The bad side is if it gets dry it will crack. They recomend you water around the slab to keep the cracks away from the foundation/slab. They do use stem walls and or foundations in houses around here, I am guessing that is because of the weight.  I hope I am using the right names for this stuff and not confusing ya!



frown


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## memmurphy

Excellent job dougand3!:thumbsup: 

We have problems with the clay soil here. Basement walls, sidwalks, driveways all get a crack eventually. Like Stewart was talking the clay seems to expand and contract quit a bit depending on moisture. About 20 years ago when me and dad built our 10x10 shed we put 8 treated landscape timbers 3 foot into the ground below the frostline for this area. Filled the base with rocks and gravel for drainage, then cement to the top. Then built a frame with old oak 2x10 then set the 2x4 shed truses on them. The city building inspector had to approve each step. He made me put steel straps from the truses to the oak frame which is bolted to the treated timbers in the ground. This was to tie every thing together incase of hi winds he said. We did all of this instead of a slab because city codes require untreated wood to be a minimum of 10" I think it was above ground. Since the truses in the kit were untreated, we would have had to install a foundation of block to lift it to that height. And per city code the foundation had to be 3ft deep, due once again to the frost line. Today the shed is solid with no rotting wood, but given all that prep it has shifted some. The floor is slightly ridged and the slide bolt locks on the one door are more stubborn to get locked during the winter. It is kind of nice to have a crawl space underneath for storage of metal stakes and fence posts for the garden. Sorry for the long post.

Mark


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## Ingersoll444

Hey Leolav, Don't know what an A weights, but I had my two ingersolls and all of there attachments on the 2x6 deck of my shed with no problem, and have also stored two motorcycles,and holds up well. I would probably go 16" centers though for a car,and maybe two layers of 3/4 ply for the floors, and at that point, cost wise, you are realy in a slab pricing. So unless that would be a problem with town code, or realy impact your taxes bad, I would probably look that way.


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## jbetts13

> _Originally posted by jodyand _
> *Hes using it as a vent fan to get the hot air out. Because as we all know hot air rises and the fan takes it out of the shed.
> Jody *


do you need them or just to keep your shed cool


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## dougand3

Jbetts, it has gotten to 80 degrees F at 6' above floor level this spring...that is comfortable enough. But get to 90 and kinda unpleasant. I'll need to move the hot air out of the ceiling area in the summer. Now, in Ontario, I doubt it would be a problem. Put a thermometer inside near the ceiling and see what you get.


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## Stewart

Keeping it cool will be nice not to mention keeping the PC cool. Heat and computers don't mix, then you can't surf the tractor forum!!!!!


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## dougand3

Thanks, memmurphy
Stewart, good idea...gotta russle up some hooks and eyescrews. I got my puter in there to autoshut down at 60c...those athlon xp run HOT. Celerons are probably recommended for sheds.
Jbetts, if your shed is hot...may or may not be a big deal...gas, diesel,kero will evaporate faster and an asphalt shingle roof will fail quicker.


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## Argee

Nice looking shed Doug.

I'm betting that you didn't do this under permit.
While your construction technique is commendable. Your layout of the blocks is on the weak or web side and could cause problems. But your floor system, sleepers, wall system, etc. is done well. Did you make any provisin to anchor this building into the ground?
I guess I would caution you on your roof system
You didn't make trusses, you installed rafters with wind clips. There are no rafter ties. Are those 2x4 or 2x6? I'm not sure what your load is in that part of the country, but if you have any notable snow, that roof system may be laying on your floor the following spring.

Doug, I'm not trying to be harsh. I am a licensed builder who promotes safe functionable buildings and have been in the building business close to 25 years.

I'd be willing to make some suggestions to you on making that building safe if your interested.


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## dougand3

Argee, glad to see you back at it. Hope you're doing well.

Sure, any suggestions on bettering the shed are welcomed.

Snow in our area is 0" to 6".


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## slipshod

*Doug*

Argee is right. Even if you just add two coller ties one third of the way from the front and the back it will make a world of difference, if the roof takes a load. The other thing I would add to your shed is diagonal bracing in the corners. I like the metal stuff, you only have to snap a chaulk line and make a half inch deep slit with your circular saw. This will help keep your shed squared up in high winds.


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## guest

> _Originally posted by Argee _
> *Nice looking shed Doug.
> 
> Your layout of the blocks is on the weak or web side and could cause problems. *


What do you mean? do you mean the blocks should have gone the other way as in across (in a T) the boards not with them?


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## slipshod

*blocks*



> _Originally posted by simple_john _
> *What do you mean? do you mean the blocks should have gone the other way as in across (in a T) the boards not with them? *


 Blocks should be standing the same way you would use them to build with. What I do if I am going to use them to support something is cut pieces of pressure treated 2 by material to set them on. It will last next to forever. Laying the way they are loses over 50% of the strengh of the block.


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## Argee

> _Originally posted by simple_john _
> *What do you mean? do you mean the blocks should have gone the other way as in across (in a T) the boards not with them? *


No, actually the blocks are laying on their sides. In this position it is very easy for the webbing to collapse with any lateral thrust.


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## bloomtools

Hi, i am new to this forum. How long did it to complete. How much you really earned after it. Did your efforts made it right way. I want to suggest you to visit shedsnhomes.com.au for more deals.


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