# It's coming together nicely...



## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

Well, I got my moldboard plow and disc cultivator yesterday and have those things assembled and ready for use this spring.

Now, I'm wondering what to do next. I'd really like the electric lift assist, but I'm wondering if it will really make that much difference vs. the manual lever lift on the sleeve hitch.

Granted, the lever is gaudy sticking out there on the side of the tractor, but will I notice any performance gain from the actuator? I guess I need a little input from you guys that have the actuator to enlighten me a bit!  

When I think about it, if I won't gain any performance, then I'd be better served by taking that money and buying a grader blade, or snow plow, or something along those lines.

Help me out a bit, guys!!! 

Oh, I forgot... I also installed the nose roller assembly yesterday. It didn't come on my tractor, so I ordered it separately and took care of that little detail!


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Once you lift that plow a dozen times or so you will wish you had electric lift


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by jodyand _
> *Once you lift that plow a dozen time you will wish you had electric lift  *


OK, I've had it on the tractor already and have lifted it sitting in the seat and its not real bad. I know that bringing it out of the ground will add a bit more labor to it though!  

I'm just trying to figure out the best way to get the most mileage from my buck. 

Tell me, do you gain any down pressure from an actuator? Or is it simply lifting/lowering ability?


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Well from what i remember from Willie and Topdj, and snowmower it also gives downward pressure enough to lift it back end up.


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by jodyand _
> *Well from what i remember from Willie and Topdj, and snowmower it also gives downward pressure enough to lift it back end up. *


Hopefully I can get some of those guys to chime in here with their experiences. If it gives that down pressure, then I'm all for that! I realize we're not dealing with hydraulics here with the actuators, but if they can do that it would be sweet.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

Willie, I am sad to say does not post here anymore, but you can search the archives here for the modifications he made to his Husqvarna (Craftsman clone) for ideas on what works for you. Should be helpful as he posted a lot of pics and gave a lot of info.


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Willie dont post anywhere anymore Oh yea Sam has one to a big one on his.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

I have a 12" moldboard that I used to use prior to getting my FordNH....depending on how much plowing your going to do, it may get tiresome picking the plow out of the gound at the end of every row...I think your sleeve hitch offers more leverage than mine as I use linkage from the mower lift...Wait until spring and try out the moldboard on it...if it gets to be to much, put on the electric lift...

As far as the disk goes...I had two and I hooked them in tandem...did a really nice job...I actually took some angle iron and made a rigid frame and attached some tires to the setup for transport.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Tom

You do realize that these attachments need to "float". Downpressure will create problems.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Tom
> 
> You do realize that these attachments need to "float". Downpressure will create problems. *


:thumbsup: Good point sixchows....Yes Tom, read the setup part of the manual very carefully before plowing..


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

Thanks for the input guys. I'll just have to ponder it over and see which way I want to go with the electric lift deal.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Tom
Did you get the plow used? If you don't have a manual here's a link to the brinly manual posted in the boles section. It explains the reason for the 3 holes on the mount and gives directions for setup and use.
http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4236


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Tom
> Did you get the plow used? If you don't have a manual here's a link to the brinly manual posted in the boles section. It explains the reason for the 3 holes on the mount and gives directions for setup and use.
> http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4236 *


Sixchows, I decided to buy a new one. I guess I just decided to buy new and that way I'd know what I had and how it went together and such.

I did think the Sears manual for it was rather vague in describing how the holes in the hitch worked.

For instance, my manual calls for it to be in the far left hole. So, I test fitted it on the sleeve hitch and it sways all over the place when you drive it around. Either I'm missing something or its just plain weird the way it hooks up!


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

The location of which hole to use is based upon the distance between the rear wheels. It's important to use the correct hole or you will be left with un-turned rows between your turned rows (furrows). 

The plow is intended to swing back and forth. If after reading eveything you still feel it's got too much movement, tighten the bail bolts a little. Just make sure sure it has some lateral movement.


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

OK. If you are standing astraddle the rail of the plow the manual calls it to be in the 1R position on my tractor. (I'm referring to that as the far left hole). The distance between my wheels with the new lug tires installed is 16 1/2 inches, which my Sears manual calls for the above referenced position.

In other words, the yoke is mounted to the plow with all of the holes right of center line looking down on it if you are straddle of the rail and facing the tractor rear end.

So, when that is hooked up that way, one of the adjustment bolts won't even adjust up to the hitch and if you adjust the other one any, it just causes the plow to "trail" even worse when transporting it.

I'm sure its a simple thing, but it just kinda has me curious as to what I'm doing wrong somewhere.  I'm sure once the plow is lowered and engaged in the ground, it will probably plow fine. It just looks to me like it won't right now.

This really shouldn't be puzzling for me, hell I grew up on a farm and have pulled plows all of my life. Just not a sleeve hitch plow.  So, I don't know why my feeble mind has sprung a leak over this one!


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Here's the brinly diagram
http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=47729


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Here's the brinly diagram
> http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=47729 *


I've looked at the diagram you posted vs. the one I have. They are essentially the same manual.

If you look at Fig. B on the one you have posted, that is the way my yoke is installed and it is using position 1. It just isn't making any sense to me though, because when you are transporting the plow, it just flops all over the place. You'd think there would be a way to better secure the plow when transporting.

I know it won't do that when plowing because the ground wil be holding it in place. But I sure don't like it flailing all over creation when I'm just driving from one place to another with it.

Guess I'll have to invent something myself to fix that...


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Tom

Does the sears manual show location for less than 18" distance btween the wheels?

My craftsman GT has 18" between the tires and for a 10" plow uses hole 2R which is the middle hole.

The hole directly in line with the plow is hole #1. Then depending on whether your holes go to the left or right are numbered 2R or 2L for the middle hole and 3R or 3L for the far hole. 

If sears is refering to 1R do they mean the middle hole? What are they calling the hole in line with the plow?


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

So if you're using a 10" plow you should be using the middle hole if the holes go to the right. The sears plow is made by brinly. Your old tires were the same as mine. I would use the middle hole. The fine print says if using high floatation tires and you want narrower furrows move one to the left which would be hole #1 in your case. I would use the middle hole and see how it works.

As for transporting, unless you have a perfectly level area the plow will dig spots along the way. I usually use a cart to bring the plow where I want to use it.


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *So if you're using a 10" plow you should be using the middle hole if the holes go to the right. The sears plow is made by brinly. Your old tires were the same as mine. I would use the middle hole. The fine print says if using high floatation tires and you want narrower furrows move one to the left which would be hole #1 in your case. I would use the middle hole and see how it works.
> 
> As for transporting, unless you have a perfectly level area the plow will dig spots along the way. I usually use a cart to bring the plow where I want to use it. *


Thanks, Six! I guess they count AG Lug Tires as high flotation tires then. It sure would make more sense to be in that middle hole rather than all the way to the left in position 1.

At least that way I could tighten the adjustment bolts on the sleeve hitch down against the yoke for transportation purposes and then back them off again once I get to where I am going for plowing.


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Tom
> 
> Does the sears manual show location for less than 18" distance btween the wheels?
> ...


My manual lists it as follows:

Dist. Between Wheels

16-19" Hole 1R
19-21" Hole 2L
21-23" Hole 3L
Over 23" Hole 3L

Mine is 16 1/2 according to my measurements, and my yoke faces to the right. So according to Sears, I should be in hole 1R as in Figure B in your drawing. But that just wasn't making sense to me.


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## snowmower (May 19, 2004)

Sorry for taking so long to chime in here. Radioman, you've been busy getting toys!!! 

My $.02 about the rear actuator. It is worth 10 times what I paid for it. In my case, because I am using a box scraper/ blade to work a gravel parking lot, I need to lift it up and down a LOT! Now, while this unit needs to float, to be effective, it also needs about 50-100lbs or extra weight.

So, after about the 15th time I had to wrench my back and reach for the lift lever with an extra few pounds, I knew very quickly the actuator was for me.

In terms of free play, I find there is enough 'slop' at the mouting point that the blade has a few inches of up and down free play in it.

Good luck.

SnowMower


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

Here is a copy of the recommended plow set up from Weekend Freedom Machines web site where a lot of guys do a fair amount of plowing:


The 3pt plow if a fairly straightforward beast to set up.

As far as the hitch itself is concerned, the top link should be in the top of the three holes on the tractor, and the height adjusting screws should be about midway, and level side to side. The top link on mine is almost fully extended, but that is the one you will probably be playing with the most. The pins on the plow should be in the bottom holes. The top link should go in the top hole on the mast.

The best way to "dial it in" for starters is to place the left side tires of your tractor up on a set of 6” blocks. This will simulate the tractor in the furrow. I have my wheels in the narrow position, and the beam bolts on the plow are just to the left of the three-point mast.

With the tractor on the black, lower the three point all the way and then adjust your top link so that the tail of the plow is approx 1/2" off of the ground. This will give the plow its suck.

Then you can level the plow side to side with the screw adjusters on the arms. This isn't nearly as critical since you will most likely be following someone different while plowing. The mast should be plumb, but this will change depending on the depth of furrow that you are running in.

I run my sway chains fairly snug, probably two to three inches of play side to side. I feel this helps protect the plow if I hit something solid. Remember that the three point plow can be narrowed to match the capacity of the tractor. If you are having problems pulling it, you might want to slide the beam towards the furrow. 
Most important, don’t over inflate your rear tires. 8-10 # should be the max. I am running CaCl in each rear tire, 70# and 1 cast weight. I have an old set of Goodyears that I run that are pretty cut up. At 12# of pressure I spin, and at 8, I break gears. Some slippage is a good thing.

Also consider that with the three point plow, you can “carry” some of the weight of the plow on your tractor. This will improve your traction also. I sometime use the depth stop in the middle hole to regulate my plowing depth.


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## 911radioman (Jan 18, 2005)

Added another item to the "toy collection" today! I bought a Brinly-Hardy Broadcast Spreader. It is the largest one they make, 175 lb. capacity. Sure was frustrating to put together though...

BTW, all the Brinly stuff is made 20 miles from my house in Jeffersonville, Indiana! Sure wish one could buy factory direct from them, it would make a nice stop on my way up the road!


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