# Ford 3000 cylinder sleeve



## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hi, I'm new here. I'm from Czech Republic. Ford 3000 from 66 'came to me. was in a very bad condition. yesterday I found that there is a hole in the bottom of the cylinder, caused by the poor condition of the coolant and the subsequent cavitation. the walls of the cylinder will be in poor condition. Is it possible to install wet sleeves? did anyone do it? Thanks for the reply and I apologize for Google English.


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## Cvans (Sep 7, 2008)

Welcome here.
My concern is if the engine block is in that bad of condition in that cylinder, the rest of the block is probably in poor condition also. I would check it over very carefully before putting any money into it. 
It might be better to find another used engine somewhere.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

thank you for the answer, the problem is that there are not many used parts for these tractors in Europe


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

It is a common occurrence to get cavitation in those 3 cylinder Ford blocks if the proper coolant conditioner is not used.
The approved repair is not a wet sleeve but a dry sleeve. A machine shop will bore the block then press in dry sleeves then finish bore (or hone) the bores to factory specs.
I have a 4000 engine that I had to have sleeved.
I suspect it will run many thousands of hours.
Too bad you are so far away. I have a set of new pistons - with pins and rings that I would sell cheaply.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

yes, dry sleeves are also available in the Czech Republic, but my mechanic, who specializes in engine repairs, told me that the hole is located on the lower edge of the liner and the coolant will not hold it and will flow back into the oil.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hello, please have anyone at least take a photo of how big a hole is able to keep the dry sleeve?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I don't have a photo.
I would think you could use an epoxy sleeve retainer. I don't know much about process but know on some engines the sleeves have to be glued in.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

thanks for the anwers. after a long search, I finally found one new block in Germany. it is definitely from a newer production. I have a question. will components from an older engine fit into it? it's mainly about the engine head. In my opinion, among other oil filters, there should be no difference, but you are experts.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

https://m.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-a...-ford-2000-3000-2600-3600/1493158754-276-2638


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

This Is my motor


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Paulo77 said:


> thanks for the anwers. after a long search, I finally found one new block in Germany. it is definitely from a newer production. I have a question. will components from an older engine fit into it? it's mainly about the engine head. In my opinion, among other oil filters, there should be no difference, but you are experts.


Ford used that same 4.2" bore block to build the 158 and 175 cubic inch engines.
158 ci = 4.2x3.8 "
175 ci = 4.2x4.2"
There were some changes to the blocks along the way. Press-in soft plugs instead of screw in type, oil filter type and about 1972? they changed the lifters/push rods to a newer style but the cams remained the same. Later yet (1983) they added the X bracing to them.
You can put all your guts into a newer block and be fine.
I am running 1985 guts ( crank, cam, lifters and push rods )in a 1966 block.
PS, you could also put your 4.2 guts into a 4.4 block and get a 192 ci engine (4.4x4.2) Ford made that size too.
I ran a 201 gas engine (4.4x4.4) in my own 3000 for a few years till I switched the tractor to a 175 diesel.
It had lots of power


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> https://m.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-a...-ford-2000-3000-2600-3600/1493158754-276-2638


Looking at the hole pattern for the cylinder head, I think that is a 4.4" bore block. If so, it is most certainly a BSD333 block with 4.4" stroke, and it is of the newer cross hatch (waffle) type. That means that you need a lot of new parts inside to make it work. You also need another injection pump (or have the old one rebult) and other injectors.
Ask the seller what the bores are.

You might go for a short motor BSD333:
https://www.agrilineproducts.com/ford-fordson-short-motor-bsd333-7828
but parts add up; Bolt sets, oil pump (if not included), injection pump. injectors...

Send an email to these guys:
https://www.timik.co.uk/index.html
and ask if they can get you a proper block.
If money is not the issue, they have remanufactured engines, plug and play:
https://www.timik.co.uk/ford-3-cylinder-tractor-engines.html

Other companies that maybe can help you:
https://www.emmarkuk.com/
https://histoparts.com/en
https://old20tractorparts.com/
https://www.schlepper-teile.de/de/index.pmode


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Poslal jsem prodejci otázku ohledně otvoru válce. pokud by to bylo 4,2 ", dalo by se všechno použít ze starého motoru? nebo existují rozdíly v hlavě tohoto novějšího bloku?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hacke said:


> Looking at the hole pattern for the cylinder head, I think that is a 4.4" bore block. If so, it is most certainly a BSD333 block with 4.4" stroke, and it is of the newer cross hatch (waffle) type. That means that you need a lot of new parts inside to make it work. You also need another injection pump (or have the old one rebult) and other injectors.
> Ask the seller what the bores are.
> 
> You might go for a short motor BSD333:
> ...


Hacke,
If that red bock on ebay is a 4.2 it will work for him. I am running just the opposite.
I have all the internals from a BSD 201 running in a 1966 201 gas block.
If you can go one way (new parts in an old block)
You you can go the reverse (old parts in a new block.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

You have right it Is 4,4" bore.  So what Now. dealings with the UK are now very complicated.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Paulo77 said:


> Poslal jsem prodejci otázku ohledně otvoru válce. pokud by to bylo 4,2 ", dalo by se všechno použít ze starého motoru? nebo existují rozdíly v hlavě tohoto novějšího bloku?


I sent the seller a question about the cylinder bore. if it was 4.2 ", could everything be used from the old engine? or are there differences in the head of this newer block? from Czech

Yes. Your old parts will work in that block if it is a 4.2 bore. The one thing you need to check is the head bolts. Some time after 1983 Ford changed the head bolts to a larger size. (1/2" to 9/16") so that is something you need to consider.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> You have right it Is 4,4" bore.  So what Now. dealings with the UK are now very complicated.


That is a bummer.

Yes, I know how complicated it is nowadays to buy from the UK (I am in Sweden). Perhaps the UK companys can give you some advice, at least?
Try the Dutch and German sites I linked to:
https://histoparts.com/en
https://www.schlepper-teile.de/de/index.pmode

Maybe this Irish company can help:
https://tractorspares.ie/

Poland:
http://www.stelmax.slask.com.pl/s5-kontakt.html

Denmark:
http://veterantraktordele.dk/page.asp?PageID=51
[email protected]

Sweden:
https://tktraktordelar.se/en/


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Just thinking, perhaps there are 4.2" sleeves for 4.4" bored blocks?
This one has unfortunately 1 mm smaller Outer Diamleter than 4.4":
https://www.agrilineproducts.com/ford-fordson-liner-parallel-semi-finished-7412


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Thanks for the links. I wrote questions to the sellers. quite an interesting option would be as ultradog wrote. 4.4 "x4.2".


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> Thanks for the links. I wrote questions to the sellers. quite an interesting option would be as ultradog wrote. 4.4 "x4.2".


Apart from new pistons, you would need a fitting fuel system. Parts add up.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Paulo77 said:


> Thanks for the links. I wrote questions to the sellers. quite an interesting option would be as ultradog wrote. 4.4 "x4.2".


As I mentioned, Ford did build a 192 CI. 4.4x4.2
I think they were used in the 3910.
I see you have a Simms pump. Dont know if those can be reset like the CAV rotary pumps can to run the bigger engine.
Too bad you are SO far away...
I have a used 4.2 block here I would sell cheaply.
Needs overhauled. I would sleeve it.
Together with the new 175 pistons I mentioned earlier it would fix you right up.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I still plan new pistons. rather I think I would have to buy new piston rods. from engine 192 ci


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Found some other links worth trying:
https://www.exporttractors.com/contact-and-openinghours
http://petriksunko.lv/kontakti.html
http://www.intrac.lv/contacts/en

If you search for older Fords at Mascus and Machinio, you can find companies that may help you:
https://www.mascus.cz/zemedelske-stroje/ford,,1,relevance,search.html
https://www.machinio.com/ford/tractors#results


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Paulo77 said:


> I still plan new pistons. rather I think I would have to buy new piston rods. from engine 192 ci


No need to buy rods.
All 3 cyl engines used the same ones.
They just changed the wrist pin height on the pistons.
Nice.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Díky za odpovědi. Píšu vše, co mohu, ale zpráva od ultradogu mě velmi potěšila. je hlava válce stejná pro vrtání válců o průměru 4,2 "a 4,4"?


Thanks for the answers. I write everything I can, but I was very pleased with the news from the ultradog. is the cylinder head the same for drilling 4.2 "and 4.4" diameter cylinders?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Two more:
http://www.ford-traktoren-teile.de/kontakt.html (specialized in old Fords)
http://www.agri-parts.eu/pagina/contact/


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

thanks for the links, but so far it looks like no one has an engine. I would just ask the cylinder head if it will fit from 4.2 "to 4.4" and on ebay I found the pistons. I will assume that I am building a Ford 3910 engine. and they write on eBay that they are the same as the Ford 4000.
4.4 "piston + pins and rings for Ford Traktor 3610 3910 4000 4600 5000 5610 ...
in truth, it already gives me a headache.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Paulo77 said:


> thanks for the links, but so far it looks like no one has an engine. I would just ask the cylinder head if it will fit from 4.2 "to 4.4" and on ebay I found the pistons. I will assume that I am building a Ford 3910 engine. and they write on eBay that they are the same as the Ford 4000.
> 4.4 "piston + pins and rings for Ford Traktor 3610 3910 4000 4600 5000 5610 ...
> in truth, it already gives me a headache.


Okay, here's what I know for sure:
1) Any 3 cyl diesel head built from 1965-83 will fit any block that was built from 65-83.
The head gasket is different for 4.2 and 4.4
2)In 1976 they changed the head from square intake ports to oval intake ports. The newer oval heads will still work on the older block IF you use the corresponding oval manifold. Exhaust manifolds also changed in 76 but old will work on new and vice versa.
3)If that red block is machined for 1/2" head bolts you can use it with your existing internals and head to build an engine. If it is machined for 9/16 head bolts you can use your internals but not your head.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

would it be possible to drill a hole in the block from 1/2 to 9/16? I have to reckon with all the possibilities, because the information from the seller is quite poor. And nowadays I can't take a car and start measuring the engine at a dealer. they won't let me cross the border


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

You would have to drill the holes in the head larger - not the block 
I would not do it.
You would also need to locate/buy the larger 9/16" bolts. Another reason not to do it.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The bolt problem is solved by using studs with 9/16" threads for the block and a 1/2" shank with 1/2" threads on top. Same problem for the timing cover bolt holes as for the head bolt holes, but I think those are 5/16" and 1/2" threads.

See under tab "More info":
https://old20tractorparts.com/4000/3365-short-motor-bsd333-2028024.html

Timing cover studs:
https://old20tractorparts.com/2610/...l?search_query=+timing+cover+kit+&results=378

Head studs:
https://www.agrilineproducts.com/ford-fordson-cylinder-head-stud-kit-ford-3cyl-9939


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hacke said:


> The bolt problem is solved by using studs with 9/16" threads for the block and a 1/2" shank with 1/2" threads on top. Same problem for the timing cover bolt holes as for the head bolt holes, but I think those are 5/16" and 1/2" threads.
> 
> See under tab "More info":
> https://old20tractorparts.com/4000/3365-short-motor-bsd333-2028024.html
> ...


The head studs would solve his head interchange. I had not heard of those.
Pricy though.
He shouldn't need the timing cover studs. The timing cover bolts to the front block plate - both of which he would be reusing from his old engine.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Ultradog said:


> The head studs would solve his head interchange. I had not heard of those.
> Pricy though.
> He shouldn't need the timing cover studs. The timing cover bolts to the front block plate - both of which he would be reusing from his old engine.


I checked some parts lists, the threads for the timing cover bolts changed from 5/16" to 3/8" during the 30-series production. These blocks are probably made as one size fits all, and therefore they have 3/8" threads.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

On ebay.de the same seller has a block for sale. The pictures are the same as on kleinanzagen, but here is also one with a ruler showing the bore size.

On kleinanzagen the block is new:
https://m.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-a...-ford-2000-3000-2600-3600/1493158754-276-2638

On ebay.de the block is used, but further down it is new?:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-FO...940991?hash=item1cf1fc7f3f:g:BKgAAOSwxuNfSd6P

Perhaps there are two different blocks for sale, one new and one used, and the seller just reused the pictures from one of them. If so, that has to be mentioned in the ad.

There are some signs that can mean that this is a remanufactured block, but it can also be a returned new block. Nothing of that means that there is something wrong with it, but if it has been machined in any way you need to check it personally before buying. The bores may have been honed to a point where you need oversized pistons, for instance.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> yes, dry sleeves are also available in the Czech Republic, but my mechanic, who specializes in engine repairs, told me that the hole is located on the lower edge of the liner and the coolant will not hold it and will flow back into the oil.


It would be interesting to watch some pictures showing the damages.
You say liner, does your engine have liners?
How far from the block top surface are the damages?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hacke said:


> I checked some parts lists, the threads for the timing cover bolts changed from 5/16" to 3/8" during the 30-series production. These blocks are probably made as one size fits all, and therefore they have 3/8" threads.


Ok
The 30 series is newer than I am familiar with.
I have both a 1973 block and a 10 series block here. Both of them use 5/16" bolts.
Boy those parts are expensive!
If he was just closer...
The 1973 block is 4.4 and has new sleeves and new cam bearings in it. I would sell it real reasonable.
By the time he buys the ebay block, plus the head studs, plus the timing cover studs he could probably buy my block and have it shipped there.
Then there wouldn't be any question that all his internals would fit too.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

[QUOTE = "Ultradog, příspěvek: 352223, člen: 1514"] Dobře
Řada 30 je novější, než znám.
Mám tu blok z roku 1973 i blok ze série 10. Oba používají šrouby 5/16 ".
Bože, ty díly jsou drahé!
Kdyby byl jen blíž ...
Blok z roku 1973 je 4,4 a má nová pouzdra a nová vačková ložiska. Prodal bych to opravdu rozumně.
Než si koupí blok ebay, plus čepy hlavy a čepy krytu časování, mohl si pravděpodobně koupit můj blok a nechat ho tam odeslat.
Pak by nebylo pochyb, že by se vešly i všechny jeho vnitřnosti. [/ QUOTE]
I would buy everything from you, but shipping US-Czech costs about $ 1,000


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

[QUOTE = "Hacke, příspěvek: 352217, člen: 18738"] Na ebay.de má stejný prodejce blok na prodej. Obrázky jsou stejné jako na kleinanzagen, ale zde je také jeden s pravítkem ukazujícím velikost otvoru.

Na kleinanzagen je blok nový:
https://m.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-a...-ford-2000-3000-2600-3600/1493158754-276-2638

Na ebay.de se blok používá, ale dále dolů je nový ?:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-FO...940991?hash=item1cf1fc7f3f:g:BKgAAOSwxuNfSd6P

Možná existují dva různé bloky na prodej, jeden nový a jeden použitý, a prodejce právě znovu použil obrázky z jednoho z nich. Pokud ano, musí to být uvedeno v reklamě.

Existují určité známky, které mohou znamenat, že se jedná o repasovaný blok, ale může to být také vrácený nový blok. Nic z toho neznamená, že s ním není něco v pořádku, ale pokud to bylo nějakým způsobem opracováno, musíte to před nákupem osobně zkontrolovat. Otvory mohly být vybroušeny do bodu, kdy například potřebujete nadrozměrné písty. [/ QUOTE]
Seller also sent me this scaled photo to the engine block on the Kleinanzagen site. do you think that block is used or wrong?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

No picture.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

due to a number of modifications, I decided to entrust the engine to the official workshop of Tatra. Have you seen the Dakar? They can do great things with engines.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Yes, Tatra has done well in the dunes, but they also had an excellent driver.

Actually, when you mentioned your home country in the first post, I thought that there have to be loads of shops that can fix this engine. You have a long history of top notch engineering and skillful mechanics.

Don't forget the forum, please keep us posted about the progress.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Your forum is great! The approach to newcomers is amazing. You can see that you are still a healthy group. by the end of the week I will take pictures of the damage to my engine and I will pray that in the Tatra workshops they will repair what the previous owner did wrong


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Photo of damage my motor


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Strange positions if it is from cavitation, the cylinder walls are not flexing much down there.
I think I understand now what your mechanic meant, he was worried that the block material behind the holes is damaged/porous. Perhaps that can be welded/brazed?


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I'm inserting a small update. the Tatras drilled a hole in the workshops. The engine goes to Slovakia today because Tatra sends blocks for soldering / welding holes there. I think that due to the situation in the Czech Republic, my block is the biggest traveler ever


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> I'm inserting a small update. the Tatras drilled a hole in the workshops. The engine goes to Slovakia today because Tatra sends blocks for soldering / welding holes there. I think that due to the situation in the Czech Republic, my block is the biggest traveler ever


Good to hear from you.
Your country has been hit pretty hard this time, luckily, engine blocks are allowed to travel.

Stay safe.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I greet you after a long time. I was brought an engine block after repair today. looks very good. next week the crank will be ready. one connecting rod had to be repaired. I'm really looking forward to the first start of the engine. less, however, for payment


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Can you please show picture of repaired area? I would be most interested as I am working on 4000 diesel that needs repair. Thanks


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

the repaired area will not be visible. the entire surface of the cylinder is now ground


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Greetings, I'm still waiting for the engine to be delivered. somehow it all gets complicated. I wanted to ask about the input shaft of the transmission. why is there a hole from the bottom? after separating the tractor engine, transmission oil started flowing out from this hole


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> Greetings, I'm still waiting for the engine to be delivered. somehow it all gets complicated. I wanted to ask about the input shaft of the transmission. why is there a hole from the bottom? after separating the tractor engine, transmission oil started flowing out from this hole
> View attachment 73791


Glad to hear from you!

This is a diagram for an 8-speed transmission, maybe you have another one but the parts look alike:





(3000 - SERIES) - 3 CYL TRACTOR (1/65-12/74) (07C03) - DUAL RANGE 7 SPEED (GERMANY) & 8 SPEED TRANS. GEARS & RELATED PARTS - 2000, 4110, 3000 EXCEPT 3550 New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com





It is a weep hole that is supposed to evacuate transmission oil when the seals behind the wall get worn. Without the hole, the leaking oil would follow the hollow shaft and mess up the clutch. Instead, it runs down the wall to the bottom of the bell housing and out on the ground through the weep hole there.

When the engine is removed, the shaft arrangements are not centered or supported any longer. That can make oil pass through worn/hardened seals and out through the hole. Drain the transmission through the drain plug hole before you pull the retainer. Otherwise you will have a mess inside the bell housing. Change bearings and seals while you have the tractor split.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Paulo77 said:


> Greetings, I'm still waiting for the engine to be delivered. somehow it all gets complicated. I wanted to ask about the input shaft of the transmission. why is there a hole from the bottom? after separating the tractor engine, transmission oil started flowing out from this hole
> View attachment 73791


The hole is so you can put a drift punch in it and drive out the old seal. Seal would be darned hard to get out otherwise.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Thank you for your response. great idea to get the seal through the hole. is there a trick to take off the big cast iron lid? I tried it with a reverse hammer but I'm afraid I won't damage the lid


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> Thank you for your response. great idea to get the seal through the hole. is there a trick to take off the big cast iron lid? I tried it with a reverse hammer but I'm afraid I won't damage the lid
> View attachment 73854


It has to go straight out, there are dowel pins at 3 and 9 o'clock. Screw in a bolt a couple of turns in the top hole, so you do not drop the cover. Try to move the plate with some wedges, evenly placed around the perimeter. If there is gasket sealant under the cover, break it by going around with a thin knife or a feeler gauge once you have a gap. Acetone or isopropanol can help.

*** Edit
You could put back the (now empty) bearing support first. That would strengthen the cover and give you a "handle" to pull and wiggle with.
***


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Today is the day they brought my engine from the repair, it was a long time unfortunately. I'll send a photo tomorrow. I have a question to begin with, do the head screws belong to the washers? or is it possible that they were not there?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> Today is the day they brought my engine from the repair, it was a long time unfortunately. I'll send a photo tomorrow. I have a question to begin with, do the head screws belong to the washers? or is it possible that they were not there?


Hi there!
If I am not wrong, only the four long bolts, that also holds the rocker shaft, has washers. I hope someone can confirm.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

thank you for answer. I thought so, but I wasn't sure. I can't find the corresponding engine service manual anywhere. Don't know where I can download it?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> View attachment 75098
> View attachment 75099
> thank you for answer. I thought so, but I wasn't sure. I can't find the corresponding engine service manual anywhere. Don't know where I can download it?


Looking good!
Try this:


https://www.tractorforum.com/attachments/shopmanual_ford_2_3_4000_v2-pdf.72426/


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hello, I'm putting the shaft back from the gearbox and I was surprised by two longer screws on the _support_ plate. do they have their special place? Or it can be dowel pins at 3 and 9 o'clock?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

(3000 - SERIES) - 3 CYL TRACTOR (1/65-12/74) (07C03) - DUAL RANGE 7 SPEED (GERMANY) & 8 SPEED TRANS. GEARS & RELATED PARTS - 2000, 4110, 3000 EXCEPT 3550 New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com





The five screws (#13) for the bearing support are 7/8" (~ 22.2 mm) long.
The seven screws (#17) for the support plate are 1 1/8" (~ 28.6 mm) long.
Dowel pins (#15) are cylindrical pins (no threads) 11/16" (~ 17.5 mm) long.

Perhaps you have used five of the long screws for the bearing support?
Beware, bottom holes.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Thank you, I'll check it completely


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I checked the screws and I had three screws longer and the rest of the shorter, longer ones I put in a bigger circle. I'm composing slowly but surely.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)




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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Looking good, you are on the homestretch now!


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hacke said:


> Looking good, you are on the homestretch now!


thank you, it's going slowly. I change all the seals and bearings. When I drained the oil, a lot of water was included. I think the engine will be running next week


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hello, I'm waiting for a new oil pump drive and in the meantime I decided to look in the differential and I ordered a new seal and bearings for the PTO, but don't anyone have a trick to remove the hydraulic filter over the gear plate on the transmission handbrake? I don't want to take out the whole brake.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Unfortunately I have no advice. Thanks for the picture, I have not seen the brake gears arrangement before.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hello, I'll add some photos after a while. I'm waiting from England for an oil pump. So






















I started cleaning the back of the tractor


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hello, please advise me why there is a screw on the side of the oil pump? I don't have it on the new pump and it's on the old pump.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> View attachment 75818
> 
> Hello, please advise me why there is a screw on the side of the oil pump? I don't have it on the new pump and it's on the old pump.
> View attachment 75817


The washer (10) stops the relief valve assembly (6-8) from being pushed out (6 is above your thumb nail). I think you are supposed to reuse the screw and washer (9 and 10) on the new pump.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Thank you for the advice. it occurs to me that I change everything on the tractor. but it already looks like a tractor.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

You are doing a great job, and will have a tractor that will serve you for a long time.

Glad to see you still have the headlight lenses with the angled face. The front does not look the same with the standard "domed" lenses.

Sturdy fenders with a passengers seat, but sometimes you have to sit on the other side:


https://farm1.static.flickr.com/206/445030911_9804b51c64.jpg


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I want to try the first start on Sunday. if I succeed, I'll provide a video


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Good luck, remember that when bleeding the fuel system it can take quite a while before the air is out.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I sufficiently vented the fuel system. the start was successful.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I greet you, the start of the engine and the first ride was successful, but my radiator started to bleeding, but I'll buy a new one, but I can't move the draft control lever now. can there be something wrong?


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

a new cooler is in place. our officials require a protective frame for technical inspection. I slightly modified the original semi-cabin that came with the tractor. next Thursday I'm going for a technical inspection, then the tractor will get new rubber and I'll run the engine after the renovation


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> a new cooler is in place. our officials require a protective frame for technical inspection. I slightly modified the original semi-cabin that came with the tractor. next Thursday I'm going for a technical inspection, then the tractor will get new rubber and I'll run the engine after the renovation
> View attachment 75981


You have a nice and tidy shop to work in.

Sorry, I can not give an edjucated advice to help with the draft control problem. I would try the handle with the arms as high as possible, as low as possible and change the flow rate with the knob to see if something inside clicks in place.

One thought:
I would get a conversion kit for a spin-on engine oil filter. I do not trust the by-pass function on the old cartridge type:




__





Oil filter conversion kit. Ford - Histoparts


Conversion for thick inner oil filter to new type of oil filterFord: 2000, 3000, 4000, 4100, 4110, 5000, 7000




histoparts.com




You have spent a lot of money and time on the engine, better give it a proper lubrication.

Do you need to do the inspection every year, or is it one time to get a license plate?

Good luck!


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

A conversion to a spin on filter is planned, but I can't get this conversion in Europe. in the meantime, I put an analog meter instead of a pressure sensor. lubricates to 5 bars at idle. The brand of tractor, however, has to undergo a technical inspection once every 4 years, otherwise it must not be on the road


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> A conversion to a spin on filter is planned, but I can't get this conversion in Europe. in the meantime, I put an analog meter instead of a pressure sensor. lubricates to 5 bars at idle. The brand of tractor, however, has to undergo a technical inspection once every 4 years, otherwise it must not be on the road


Histoparts in the Netherlands seems to have it. I linked to it in the previous post. That is the cheapest I have found. They want €16.50 for shipping to Czech Republic, but perhaps you find more items that can travel along.

If you want to search you can use the OEM numbers on the Agriline site:








Oil Filter Conversion Kit suitable for Ford & Fordson


Oil Filter Conversion Kit use 80002 or 80005 filter




agrilineproducts.com





309825, 309825F, 81821119 or DBPN309825

It is not a pressure problem I am afraid of, it is the by-pass function. If the filter is clogged with dirt, pressure rises at the filter inlet. To avoid a filter collapse, the by-pass valve opens and lets the unfiltered oil pass by the filter and into the engine bearings. A fifty year old spring and the design are not reliable, in my opinion. It may very well by-pass the filter at all times. A modern spin-on filter has an inbuilt by-pass valve. More reliable and it is renewed at filter change.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

thanks for the link, my mistake i didn't look. I found these conversion kits in Germany, for example, but not many companies send them to the Czech Republic. I ordered directly from your link. thank you very much


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

the tractor is ready for Thursday's technical inspection. today I tested the hydraulics and draft control is included. it turns off by moving the lever down, I suppose


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> the tractor is ready for Thursday's technical inspection. today I tested the hydraulics and draft control is included. it turns off by moving the lever down, I suppose
> View attachment 76022


I am sure it will pass, with ovation.

No, lever down (horizontal) for draft control, up (vertical) for position control.

One thing that comes to mind now that I see the grille mounted, the gaps between the headlight lenses and the grille need to be sealed. Otherwise, dust and debris will be sucked in to your new radiator. New correct rubber collar/shroud is not possible to find any longer (that I know of). There are lots of vendors that have a rubber collar, but that one will not fit. Better fabricate one yourself.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

The technical inspection did not take place today. the test technician did not come to work due to the snow disaster. so in my free time I drove for new rear tires. it looks better now. I am sending an off topic photo of what calamity has been forming in the warmest part of the Czech Republic since midnight. it's still snowing. On the contrary, I enjoy it


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Looks like a pretty road to drive when it is like that! Looks like you won't have much trouble in the snow with your SUV! Is that a Pajero?


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

exactly, it's Pajero from 1991. I had them in the workshop for a similar time as Ford 3000. 11 months. sorry for off topic photo.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Paulo77 said:


> exactly, it's Pajero from 1991. I had them in the workshop for a similar time as Ford 3000. 11 months. sorry for off topic photo.


No problem with the photo, glad you shared it!


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## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

No post ever stays on topic on here anyway.......LOL We always find a way to derail any post that shows up on here.....


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

The technical inspection is complete. the engine smokes a bit when it's cold, but that's normal I think. I need to drive him a little. He made room in the workshop for another project and it suits him in the hangar


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

yesterday I researched the function of the heather plug, I looked here on the forum and Hacke advised someone to put an inline valve on the inlet from the thermostart valve. this could be the reason for smoking the engine


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## spalek.pavel77 (Dec 8, 2021)

Sorry, I mean heater plug


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hello, does anyone have a drawing of the dashboard sticker, please? or how you renovate the instrument panel


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> yesterday I researched the function of the heather plug, I looked here on the forum and Hacke advised someone to put an inline valve on the inlet from the thermostart valve. this could be the reason for smoking the engine


Sorry, I have not checked the forum for a while.

Remove and plug the fuel line at the Thermostart and see if the smoke disappears at starts.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> Hello, does anyone have a drawing of the dashboard sticker, please? or how you renovate the instrument panel


If the gauges are not working, consider a replacement for the complete cluster:








Instrument Cluster Clockwise suitable for Ford & Fordson


Instrument Cluster Clockwise




agrilineproducts.com









instrument cluster Ford 2/3/4/5000 Clockwise - Histoparts


Instrument cluster clockwiseFord 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000, 7000OEM: 81816896, 81818095, 83958741, C5NN10849L, C5NN10849M, C7NN10849C, EHPN10849A,




histoparts.com





How much are you planning to renovate, just function or also the looks of it?


The decal is a problem, the combinations of transmission and PTO type caused for different speed data for the decals. There were also different standard wheel setups for different markets, which gave varying ground speeds (more variants of decals).

There are lots of crappy copies on the market. Are you planning to fabricate one yourself? I have an original decal for a 4000, 8-speed. The speeds are wrong for you, but you will have the correct look (Fonts, logotype and layout). If you want, I can scan it. What file format would be suitable?


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

So far, I want everything to work as it should on the tractor. Then I'll fix the look. everything works on the instrument panel. the tachometer doesn't work yet, because I probably ordered the wrong cable. I already have an oil filter reduction at home


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I'll leave the image format to you. I don't know much about it. however, I can fix the data in the picture


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

to make us understand, I want to replace the base on the dashboard, where there is only engine speed. no decal in front of the steering wheel, that's fine


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> to make us understand, I want to replace the base on the dashboard, where there is only engine speed. no decal in front of the steering wheel, that's fine


I do not follow you here, could you post a picture showing the part of the dashboard that is of interest?


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I want to make same renovation as old man in video on YouTube


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> I want to make same renovation as old man in video on YouTube


I was dealing with that face too. Since the gasket between the face and glass was hanging down and nearly touched the tachometer needle, I had to do something. After taking it apart I wanted to restore the pattern and tried all sorts of line thickness combinations. It never looked right, so I sprayed the face silver and put the cluster together.

Some years ago, Agriline had a new face. It was a temporary item and I bought one. Maybe it will come again on their website. I think it looks a bit to bright, it has thicker white lines than original.

I attach the scanning results. The scanning program rescaled the picture when I increased the resolution. Come back if rescaling does not work.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Thank you, I'll try to implant it on my tractor.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

edit. I switched the thrust control lever, more force was needed 😀. just put together the electricity to the heatstart


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Gentleme








n, I would like your advice again, the end of the old cable is bent in the tachometer. is this drive somehow easy to split to get the end out?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I do not know. I would not risk anything by trying to take it apart. Try to straighten the piece with a pick or a small screwdriver and pull it straight upwards with pliers. Chanses are that your main problem is that the piece, that has a square section, has rotated a bit in the square hole, and has been wedged stuck.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

the event was successful. I'm sending a photo of the inside of the tachometer, it will need to be useful to someone


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

You are braver than me. I am reluctant to disassemble things that may incorporate small details (often spring loaded) that are tricky to put in place.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

the displayed tachometer distribution does not break anything. I'm embarrassed, but my next question is: I bought a tachometer cable with 7/8 "UNF and 5/8" UNF threads. unfortunately my thread does not fit the small gear at the end of the dynamo. what other thread can there be?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> the displayed tachometer distribution does not break anything. I'm embarrassed, but my next question is: I bought a tachometer cable with 7/8 "UNF and 5/8" UNF threads. unfortunately my thread does not fit the small gear at the end of the dynamo. what other thread can there be?


I do not know of varying threads for the drive at the dynamo. I think it is the same Lucas angle gear drive on all 22 A dynamos, but I do not know what thread it is. Early tractors had an 11 A dynamo, perhaps you have one of those, and that has a different thread? There are two drive cables, but apart from the length (11 A dynamo was shorter, so the cable needed to be longer) I have not seen any thread information. 

Does your dynamo have a fan behind the belt pulley?
Do you have a picture of the angle drive?


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)




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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Paulo77 said:


> View attachment 76553


Judging by the picture, it is a 22 A Lucas and I cannot determine if the threads for the tachometer cable are different from the ordinary on Ford 3000 tractor. Perhaps you have got the wrong cable?


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I started overhauling the instrument cluster. the voltage stabilizer is OK.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Here is new face


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

I think, it is so good.


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## Paulo77 (Jan 13, 2021)

Hello everyone, it is a long time, but I have to show you that there is no need to be afraid to disassemble the panel on the tractor.


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