# Ford 5000 1965 diesel Power steering problems



## Jeff R

My 1965 Ford 5000 it turns right easy but turning left is very hard mine was working fine one day and the next day it was was hard to turn left..I have replaced the pump and new lines and had the steering cylinder rebuild did not help it at all...If i jack the front end off the ground it steers both ways with no problems i have took the drag link loose from the steering box and the steering wheel flies from right to left in seconds with ease i even have replaced the thrust bearings in the front end as a precaution while i had that apart checking them..I know about the adjusting screws under radiator..I have had it apart since this fall playing with those adjustments its easier with the radiator out and the nose and hood off..I have become good at adjusting them over the years grew up on this 5000 it was bought new the year i was born 1965..I also know that this is not actual power steering but what Ford called at that time power assist steering but before this happened i could steer it with one finger from left to right in first gear as long as the tractor was moving at varying RPMs low mid and high and at varying speeds..


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## sixbales

QUOTE: "I have replaced the pump and new lines and had the steering cylinder rebuild did not help it at all...If i jack the front end off the ground it steers both ways with no problems"

1. The steering cylinder has a control valve on it. Did you have this rebuilt as well? 

2. The only other major component is the steering motor.


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## Jeff R

1.Yes full rebuild always full rebuilds never just half fix
2.The early Ford 5000's did not have a steering motor..Just a engine mounted pump and separate reservoir under the hood and a steering cylinder under the radiator..


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## w3kmp

Hi Jeff,

Did you get the steering fixed? I have the same problem with my 5000.

Ken


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## sixbales

w3kmp,

Welcome to the tractor forum. 

Attached is a copy of a post written by *Bern* on the YT forum. Hope this helps.

"*The service manual has a better picture, but I don't have one nearby, so I grabbed this out of the parts book. The adjusting screw is # 28, and there are two of them, directly opposite each other. By turning the steering wheel back and forth while watching the linkage, you should be able to figure out which one to adjust. 

Note that these adjustment screws compensate for linkage wear. If an adjustment makes it better, it will eventually get worse again over time as the pins/linkage/bushings continue to wear. *"


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## sixbales

Attached is a follow-up (to Bern's post above) post written by *JF in CT* on the YT forum. 

*"Here is the instruction out of the service manual but instead of going by the clearances, you (Bern) have it right. Better to temporarily disconnect the link to the control valve then have someone hold the steering over each time you adjust the stop screws. Adjust them so the link just pushes the valve rod far enough without bottoming out the valve." *

*"Adjusting the bell crank limit screws by the book just wasn't cutting it. Those limit screws are there so you won't bottom, and ruin, the actuator valve on the piston. I pulled the actuator arm pin out and had a friend hold the steering wheel onto the screw stop while I pressed the valve to it's stop and I adjusted the screws to go almost, but not quite, to where the valve was. Steering now works amazing but, as I said, don't know if the fluid getting that hot that fast is normal (checked; no restrictions in output or return)."*


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## w3kmp

Hi Jeff,
Have you put a pressure gauge on pump output? I have been working on mine, and I am up to that point. I found that the one of the two adjustment screws was backed out and not making contact, aft screw. I adjusted it, and temporally put the radiator back in. With the engine running, I think that it works in both directions, but not very well. I did notice that the PS reservoir raises and lowers at each end of the travel, Lt and Rt. It seems like low pressure. I am going to see if I can add a tee fitting at the pump and put a gauge on it. Did you install the 1200psi pump, or the lower? Definitely not putting the rad in permanently until I get the steering working.

Thanks to everyone that has replied.

Ken


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## w3kmp

A question on the "link". It seems like the one on mine is slotted on the PS valve end. Do not know if it is worn, or is suppose to be that way. I'll take it apart tomorrow and take a look at it.

Ken


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## Hummer

W3KMP 
FWIW I mix moly powder in power steering fluid on my vehicles. So far have it in a 07 2500 HD, 02Durango and 94 Honda. Just put it my Ford 3000. The Durango started making a little noise at then ends of the turn and put the moly mix in it and it stopped it immediately.

I got on this as I took a course at Rock Island Arsenal 30 years ago called Corrosion Control and Prevention of Material Deterioration and it was a marvelous experience and I was completely sold on moly additives ever since.

Made by Sandstrom Inc Port Byron, Illinois. They make a really outstanding dry film lubricant called 28A. Comes in cans you can paint on and spray cans and works from about -300f to +450F. Check out their website, they make lots of stuff for gov't applications on weapons, aircraft and it holds up better in salt fog than chrome.

I have been running a test on a tail wheel on a 5 ft mower. The original 1" diameter axle wore out in first season and I greased it before every run. I replaced the bolt and turned new bushings for the wheel and painted the axle with 27A and let it dry. I ran it 8 hours at a time with just the dry lube. 

They replaced the 27a and 28A and I have run it 12 hours at a time. Sandstrom used to sell moly powder called 532 and that is what I add to my power steering lube, engine oils. 

I have been running the tail wheel "dry" with only the dry film lube and it is holding up just fine and now on the fourth year. 

Most oil filters will pass up to 5 microns and the moly powder runs about .5 to 1.5 microns so passes right through the filters. I have it in lawn mowers, generators, etc.
The fine grade moly powder can be had on ebay.

The 28A I paint on with a model makers paint brush. A quart is about 125.00 but should last you for years.

I also have a Deere 410C backhoe/loader and I had a front axle pivot pin and bearings showing lots of wear on it when I got it. The local dealer was talking $1200.00 min labor for the job so I made up my own fixture and removed it myself along with the bushings. The factory assembled it with no thought of ever getting it out and it was real effort to get it out. When I went back with the new bushings/pin I painted the bushings outside and inside with 28a and the pin thusly if it ever wears again it should be much easier to remove and there won't be any "cold welding" from corrosion.

Another Ham on a generator forum lives off the grid and he uses a 200.00 generator for light duty 12 hours a day and the first three generators went south at 1200 hours. He got the same generator for No 4, added the moly powder and it ran 4000 hours.

On my generators I add 1 level teaspoon full per quart of oil and I use Mobil 1 and Rotella 30 depending on whether it is gas or diesel generator.

Thusly I am thinking if while you have the assembly apart paint the moving parts with 28A let them dry overnight before reassembly.

DE AC4HT


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## Jeff R

*Update*

"Update"I reduced the linkage slack with replacing the pivot bracket and pivot bracket arm two new pivot bracket bushings & two new tie rod ends on the drag link now i have power steering left & right now..:usa: Thanks goes out to Fedup for his advice


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## Overtime

w3kmp said:


> Hi Jeff,
> 
> Did you get the steering fixed? I have the same problem with my 5000.
> 
> Ken


I’m having the same trouble curious if you know what the problem is


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## Adam Phillips

w3kmp said:


> A question on the "link". It seems like the one on mine is slotted on the PS valve end. Do not know if it is worn, or is suppose to be that way. I'll take it apart tomorrow and take a look at it.
> 
> Ken


Hey. I’m having problems with my 5000 steering as well. Was the wear on your linkage a problem? Tia


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## phillip morris

Hello i had my slave cylinder on my ford 5000 rebuilt and reinstall cranked tractor up steering automatically turned to right side by its self help some please


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## folkart2000

QUOTE: "I have replaced the pump and new lines and had the steering cylinder rebuild did not help it at all...If i jack the front end off the ground it steers both ways with no problems" 

I know this is an old thread, but could you tell me where you bought new lines for this unit? Thank you


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