# Massey 65 - Power Steering Bleeding Help..



## easygoin4

I just rebuilt the power steering cylinder (due to leaky seal on the end). Cleaned up the pedestal and all linkage.
The tractor had been sitting in garge while I did all this for about 2 months - so system was bone dry. I had disconnected all the lines and painted everything up.

Filled reservoir up above filter, put cover on, and started tractor, turned wheel both directions to bleed system as my maunal states. Did this about 4 times.

It was very easy to turn left but turning right was a struggle and then it would be easy again. It did this a few times, figured I ran low fluid since was empty.

Checked tank again - alot of air bubbles and down to bottom of filter, so topped it off again just above fill line, put cover back on. Started her up and was still difficult to turn right- not as easy as to the left like it should be.

After shut off - noticed fluid coming out top screw on tank - I must of put too much in?

This is a Cesena brand pump (original equipment), and all the time while doing this she sat in garage, and was only run for a total of about 10 min.

Any ideas - as to why hard to turn right.
I have not opened up tank yet, to see how much in there.
Sorry for long post - wanted to give all the facts.

Thanks
Chris.


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## Fedup

Not turning to the right? Probably has a bit of wear/extra clearance in the pedestal and/or related pins and bushings. This can easily cause lack of movement of the control valve spool in one or both directions. With the grille off you should be able to see the linkage move the spool an equal distance in and out of the control valve when you push/pull on the drag link back and forth between the stop bolts. If the valve spool can't be seen to move in both directions, you may be able to back off the adjustment stop bolt for that direction a bit to gain some travel. This will result in an increase in freeplay but may get the power back in the steering. The air in the oil is most likely from bad shaft seals in the steering pump.


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## easygoin4

Finally got around to bleeding- Jacked up front tires- took the lid off of the tank (as directed by another forum) and then started it - WOW SHUT IT OFF lol

I had fluid shooting out of the bolt hole in the middle of the filter about 3ft.

Cleaned up my mess but bolt in only, and started her up- fluid stayed in tank while running turned tires in both directions till air bubbles stopped, topped it off and it works great.

Now I just have to drive it our of the garage and see if the sticky steering has been corrected. If not I will check the adjustment in the front behind the grill as described.

thanks


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## easygoin4

Finally getting back into my tractor- Think I have found out why its hard to turn right.
Seems like the top spool valve (where the stick is pointing in picture) is not moving- this may be reason for fliud pressure, it seems like the valve should move to allow flow and its not.
I think I have to take it apart to see why not moving.
Does anyone have experience with this valve and dis-assembly, or can assist with its proper function.

thanks








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## HarveyW

I copied the following comments written by Jack in NB many years ago on the YT forum.

"There's a turnbuckle behind the grill, connecting a bracket on the main vertical shaft to the control valve on the top of the power steering cylinder. That's where the action is.

If you watch the valve while your trusty assistant rocks the steering wheel from side to side, you'll see the valve spool move - probably only one way, and back to center. Very slight movement - 1/16" or less. That movement is all it takes to energize the power steering.

You will also see slop in the pins connecting the linkage, possibly the turnbuckle itself is flopping.

Because of the very little movement needed, the slop may not allow enough travel to operate both ways. 

Try adjusting the turnbuckle first to get travel both ways on the control valve spool. If the spool is pulling out and not pushing in, lengthen the turnbuckle, or vice versa. 

A caution: be careful not to shorten the turnbuckle too much. If you pull the control valve spool too far out, you can bugger the retaining snap ring inside the valve, and the valve will leak. And that's a really tricky problem to fix.

Loosen the lock nut(s) and rotate the turnbuckle 1/4 turn at a time, turn the wheel back and forth, check the spool to see if you're turning the turnbuckle in the right direction to get spool travel where you did not have it before. 

If that doesn't give you enough assist, the next step is to replace the pins. They are almost always worn. (Who would ever think to oil them when servicing?) Readjust the turnbuckle. 

If that doesn't remove enough slop the next step is to redrill the holes in the spool, turnbuckle rod/end, and casting and replace with next larger size. We had to reenforce a couple of the holes with brazing.

Hope this helps."


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## HarveyW

Another comment written by CAM on same topic:

"Try the turn buckle adjustments on the front steering pedestal. Usually this takes care of left and right turning. Mine wouldn't turn in one direction because one of the front wheel spindles was partially frozen in its support. Check to see if the grease fittings are taking grease first. I took the front tie rod ends off and found that one wheel could not be turned by hand while it was off the ground. After I got the spindle free and greased everything worked fine."


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## easygoin4

Well I grabbed my son and had him turn steering wheel left and right.
Front end jacked up off the ground for less resistance.
Lossened the turnbuckle nuts again and tried it- this time only turning it a tiny bit at a time. I could see the rod move like you said about 1/16" and at one point had good steering both ways.
WOW- you were right a tiny adjustment- however at time it wants to pulsate while turning like the wheel was jerking.
There was alot of slop in the top of the upright pedistal, when I had it all out and cleaned it up all the zerc's are working and getting grease, but 50yrs of slop in it.

Question: there is a large vertical adustment screw (slotted head) with 2 large jamb nuts on the pedistal, what is this adjustment for- and do i need to move it- trying to break the jamb nuts apart is becoming an issue they are so tight.

It was late at the time so I will investigate additional slop in the whole system if it affecting the turnbuclkle adjustments.

Thanks a ton...


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## easygoin4

Harvey you were Correct....
It only take 1/16" to move the control valve and make it push fluid.

I drove around yard 2x and power steering worked great in both directions- and no fluid out the top of the tank.

I have alot of slop in pedistal but not affecting the control vavle yet, i wil keep an eye on it.

Thanks again for the help to all...


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