# model 1910 clutch broken or jamed



## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

just bought a ford model 1910, 1986 tractor. that has been sitting outside for the last 3 years. After many hours....finally have it running pretty good.

I have found out the tyranny will not shift into any of the gears,,,,will grind hard trying to put into any gear. Need help to figure this problem out . Is the clutch or the shifter broken ? Will start looking for manual soon. I don't have any idea about problem and any help will be greatly appreciated.

Also need to mention that I am new member and this is my first post.....


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

a good possibility could be the clutch plate could be stuck to the flywheel/pressure plate.

when you depress the clutch pedal, is there an even pressure on the pedal for the full extent of travel or does the pedal feel sloppy ?.

to check for a stuck clutch plate, place the tractor into 2nd or 3rd gear, push the clutch pedal all the way down and lock in place and with the help of a couple of mates, rock the tractor back and forwards hard, this may break the bond, if you have a large area to drive the tractor with safety, you could place the tractor in 2 gear and start up and drive around with the clutch pushed in, and at the same time accelerate and back off with the throttle.

I am assuming that the tractor would have been out in all kinds of weather for the 3 years you mentioned and moisture will do the trick.


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## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

Hopefully it is stuck and not worn out, it's amazing how materials will bond together when out in the weather......when I bought my Allis H3, the clutch was seized.....I had a big old oak at the end of the driveway, so I rolled the machine to it with the help of my moline jetstar...put it in 3rd gear and started it up, it jerked a couple of times and let loose....used the machine for 8 years after that with no issue. I will say, that to this day that oak tree hates me.


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

thanks for quick reply to this issues. There is a rubber cover on the left side of housing, would I be able to use some thing in there to work it loose ? What about spraying any type of releasing oils ? I was thinking maybe let it shuck and then try the stuff you guys mentioned.

When I depress the pedal ...there is no recession at all, from top to bottom. I think it stayed outside for more than what was mentioned.


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

Tried today , with help to rock tractor back and forth ...with clutch pedal fully pressed down.....tranny in 3 rd gear.....nothing still locked.

Next I chained to big tree in the yard, in 2sd gear,pedal press down. At end of the chain the tractor just hopped and jumped afew time,,,, allmost throw me off.......still locked.
I guess I will have to start splitting the tranny apart,,,, is there any other suggestions ?:


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

Just throwing some thoughts out here .....

Since you say there is no resistance on the clutch pedal for the entire stroke of the pedal, have you checked to see if the linkage from the pedal is attached to the arm of the rod going through the bell housing?

Even if the clutch disc is stuck to the flywheel you should have some resistance in the pedal when the release bearing hits the pressure plate fingers.

If the linkage is hooked up and is moving the bell crank on the rod, then chances are the fingers on the pressure plate are damaged so that the release bearing isn't contacting them or the release bearing has come apart and nothing is there to contact the pressure plate fingers.

HTH
Mark


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

I did look at the linage outside,from the pedal to the housing,,,,it's moving with no resisatance. I will have to find a good light and look a lot closer inside of the housing and see what is happening there.

One other thing I noticed was that the pto still turns even when both shifter are in neural,,,when I move the level to engage it ?


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

Today checked linage from pedal to swing arm on outside of housing......all good

checked linage on shaft and fork.....moves back and forth when pedal is moved. The end of fork is just touching the bearing and not pushing it forward. How far does the bearing need to be moved to disengage the clutch ? There is only 1/4 play left on the rod for adjustment outside.Will try to adjust and see what happens.


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

have now split tractor and have complete clutch on the bench. Everything looks good, fingers all move with lots of hand press.

Ordered service manual ....hope to receive in the next few weeks. Is there measurement that I need to set fingers to splined shaft ?

Is there bench tests I can do in the mean time,to see if everything is working correctly ? I'm just hoping some-one has just had one apart for service and has afew measurement.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Hello shar1950.

I recently replaced the clutch in my 1970 3400. I don't know if your 1910 is set up similar but mine is a double clutch. I was never able to move the fingers by hand on the old one. If you can see the spings check if they are broken, or they might just be tired. Also at the end of the inside fingers were the throw bearing contacts the fingers it looks like a bolt with a rounded head. Mine were worn down. The throw bearing was grooved and not a flat surface. These two things and the clutch being worn were most of my problems. Also the adjustments at the opposite end of the fingers were worn.

I suggest if you have the budget is to replace the clutch, throw bearing and the bearing in the fly wheel. It's a real pain just to split the tractor and then you would have peace of mind and avoid enny other damage.

My clutch if I remember correctly cost me approximately 600$ for the kit. It was pre assembled and adjusted. It also came with a line up tool. I will post pic later of new and old for reference


Good luck


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

A couple pix I promised


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

A few more pics


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

As you can tell I had a transmission seal leaking . For clutch adjustment there are fancy tools to adjust so maybe a transmission shop or a tractor shop could do it but I've never heard of someone having to readjust before they are burnt. Good luck


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

Thanks for your help Dozer966, this clutch is a little different. I also noticed that the spline in the clutch must have been rusted onto the drive shaft.Have checked all visible parts,,, they all look good.

I would like to check measurement, from fingers to spline, I do not have that figure,,,, this one is close to 3" plus . Everything looks new,, , very little wear on the disc.

Also I see 3 adjustable bolts on the outer edge of the clutch unit,,, what are they for?????


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

If you are referring to the nut and alen key bolt on each outer finger these are part of the adjustments for the clutch. If all looks good I would pay attention to the throw out fork and bearing, shaft and linkage. Broken or missing keyway, bent fork bent fingers on clutch or enny worn out part. Can you take pix and post. Maybe we can see something you overlooked. The members on this forum have a prity good eye.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Also see if you can find a blowup parts diagram to see if there are any parts missing like a spacer or something. I go to my parts guys website on the right go to Ford/newholand and fill in the info. Hope this link works for you.

http://www.crydermanindustrial.ca/


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

here are a few photos of the clutch....looks pretty new to me.. the ring gear plate had a few rust areas and lots of rust on splined disc.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Have a look at the throw bearing fork , I wonder if it was installed backwards. I think your problem is somewhere in there. Linkage , missing keyway or something like that. That clutch looks like a complete assembly. I would not touch it. Definitely no wear on that. You will need a lineup tool for reassembly. You can find them on eBay

I say it looks like a complete assembly because of the yellow paint marker Lin's from when they lined it up at the manufacturing plant.


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

already looked at linage inside of case, when I push pedal down, the throw out bearing will move back and forward about a 1" or so. The clutch was stuck and that is why I split tractor and wanted to check everything. I will start to put it back and see what happens.


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## shar1950 (Jul 7, 2015)

after many hours....working in the cold weather....found out that spring pins going into the shaft were both broken and end pieces were still in the fork. The shaft was very hard to move in the fork....had to heat fork. Replaced spring pins today and everything back together. Tractor back together and now I need info on which hydraulic oil to use in tranny and rear lift unit ???


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

Fluid for both is the same. The buzz word is 134 D. Many brands are made with this. Just make sure it says 134 D. It will be tractor hydraulic fluid such as Traveller brand from Tractor Supply. You use the same fluid for power steering fluid. The steering box fluid is different and uses 90 weight gear oil.


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