# 3-Point Back Hoe size for Farmall 350



## Farmall350 (9 mo ago)

Hello all, new here. I have a Farmall 350 that I would like to put a 3-pt back hoe on. Anyone have any recommendations on what size may work best? Thanks in advance! - Vince


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum. I think you should search for a unit that would be compatible with a 35 - 40 HP tractor.... at the most. 
They are handy I suppose, but expensive and can cause undue stress on your tractor. Are you familiar with the operation of a backhoe? Have you considered a tow behind unit?


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Bill echo's words of wisdom. A 3 PH backhoe can destroy a tractor real quick if put in a bind, Much better with a tow behind or a mini-ex.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

not too many to be had from what I've seen lately.
I believe the 3-point destroying a tractor thing comes from modern light weight Kubotas with too much aluminum where they aught to have Iron or Steel. This should not an issue with your Farmall. Dad has been using a 7' 3-point on his Kubota L2550DT since the tractor was maybe a couple years old, and has done several things that you would think would wreck the tractor if it could wreck the tractor.
The 3-points come in a couple of different flavors. Dad's is a power beyond (quick connects plumb it between the pump and the Loader valve). You can also get PTO powered. I would think you would want a PTO version as I'm guessing the 350 doesn't have loads of excess hydraulic capacity.
Personally, I find the 7' hoe to be too small (you have to constantly reposition), but I haven't seen too many much bigger. Maybe 9' tops. 9' would be drastically better honestly.
You'd probably want an 8' or a 9'.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Smaller tractor (CUT or sub cut) with a BH installed can lead to case issues from undue stress imposed by the BH on the 3 point and it's not just Kubota, but any smaller unit. The gearcases on both my large frame Kubota's are nodular cast iron and steel but I'd still not use a 3 PH mounted backhoe on either without the appropriate subframe installed.

I personally know of a person with a mid size Kubota that got into almost 17 grand in repairs for a cracked final drive case from using a 3PH mounted Woods backhoe... Ouch.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

SidecarFlip said:


> Smaller tractor (CUT or sub cut) with a BH installed can lead to case issues from undue stress imposed by the BH on the 3 point and it's not just Kubota, but any smaller unit. The gearcases on both my large frame Kubota's are nodular cast iron and steel but I'd still not use a 3 PH mounted backhoe on either without the appropriate subframe installed.
> 
> I personally know of a person with a mid size Kubota that got into almost 17 grand in repairs for a cracked final drive case from using a 3PH mounted Woods backhoe... Ouch.


I don't see how a final drive housing would care if it was a 3-point or frame mounted.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Then You don't understand how the forces from a backhoe are applied to the rear gearcase castings. The forces from the backhoe are directly transmitted to the rear castings via the top link bracket and the lower link pivot pins, Neither of which are designed to absorb excess twisting or sideload forces. Only the drawbar is and the backhoe don't attach to the drawbar at all. In fact, Kubota (and I assume) other tractor manufacturers won't warrant any damage cause by a 3PH mounted backhoe without a subframe to distribute the forces imposed by the BH to the frame itself.

I'd never ever buy one without the correct subframe.

Two things that owners of rear mount backhoes have a penchant for doing is, lifting the rear tires off the ground while using the FEL bucket to lift or lighten the front axle and using the backhoe bucket to reposition the tractor and backhoe without relieving the pressure on the stabilizer pads. Both of those things place a huge strain on the 3PH components and the rear gearcase. You should never raise the rear tires off the ground or the front's either and NEVER reposition the unit using the bucket and dipper stick. That always imposes huge torsional loads on the rear casting, again through the top link bracket and the lower arms that are attached to the gearcase. Even with a subframe properly installed, there will still be huge imposed loads. If you bother to read the owners manual that came with the backhoe or any mounted backhoe, it will plainly spell out the correct and incorrect way of operating it.

Why I don't want one and why I prefer to rent a Mini Ex to dig with. They are designed as diggers. Your tractor isn't. Had a mounted BH years ago and sold it. Too much of an expensive risk to take for me, because I sometimes get 'carried away' when using one.

I'm not saying it's a 100% failure rate to use one without a subframe but the chance for failure is always there and the correct subframe gives you better odds at not having a very expensive failure. The guy I know with the 17K repair bill finally admitted he was 'horsing' the BH around when the casting cracked and spilled it's guts in the dirt.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

SidecarFlip said:


> Then You don't understand how the forces from a backhoe are applied to the rear gearcase castings. The forces from the backhoe are directly transmitted to the rear castings via the top link bracket and the lower link pivot pins, Neither of which are designed to absorb excess twisting or sideload forces. Only the drawbar is and the backhoe don't attach to the drawbar at all. In fact, Kubota (and I assume) other tractor manufacturers won't warrant any damage cause by a 3PH mounted backhoe without a subframe to distribute the forces imposed by the BH to the frame itself.
> 
> I'd never ever buy one without the correct subframe.
> 
> ...


you said final drive housing


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Final drive housing, rear case, one in the same. Terms are interchangeable.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

SidecarFlip said:


> Final drive housing, rear case, one in the same. Terms are interchangeable.


often final drives are bolted onto the rear case. They wouldn't care if there was a subframe or not beyond the weight of the subframe and any changes in spacing of the hoe. 
sometimes the final reduction would be in the rear case. I was assuming separate the way you phrased it.


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