# Ford 2000 Clutch



## a65l (Jun 13, 2020)

I'm confused. My PTO will juuusssttt barely disengage with the clutch pedal on the floorboard, and I'm out of adjustment. Simple diagonsis is it's time for a new clutch. I figured I'd head on over to one of the places I've done online business with before and just order it. Problem is I can't seem to figure out which clutch I need. It's a '73, 3 cylinder. It has a live pto, and 8 speed transmission. I really would rather have the new part on hand before I start the job, as it's going to happen at a neighbor's where he has a 10" concrete floor and an overhead lift... a lot easier than in my gravel driveway. Would one of you be kind enough to point me at the parts I need? 

I'll probablly just go ahead and do the rear main seal if it's fairly easy while it's out.. any other stuff I should look at while I'm in there?


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## Blackelk (Mar 31, 2020)

I know what your saying. I did the clutch on my 3600 last month and wanted it on hand to do it all the same day. They told me I needed to know the size and spline numbers before ordering. they said it could be a few different ones. Just putting a engine in a 5610 and figured I would do the clutch since I am there and it was the same thing. Had to measure the clutch and verify spline count. Thinking this is a common Ford thing. I do rear main seal, pilot bearing and throw out bearing when I am in there. I also take the clutch fork out and clean the rust off the rod and lube up the bushings/


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Blackelk has it right.
There were different spline counts over the years. Both on the pto input and the drive input.
So though it's a pia to split it and then wait for a week or ten days it still beats having to send parts back and get the right ones.
As far as the rest of the job goes, remember that you you have two inputs into the transmission. The input shaft for the drive and the input tube for the pto.
So there are Two input seals you want to replace.
Another gotcha that can happen is on your 73 there are 3 soft plugs back there. Two in the back of the head and one behind the block plate - behind the flywheel.
I have seen or read about it happening 3 times where one of those soft plugs rusted through and they had to do a split to repair them.
So I go ahead and replace all three of them. In tractors built before midyear 1968 they used the old style screw-in plugs and those never fail.


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## a65l (Jun 13, 2020)

Thanks for the inputs. Well nuts... not as simple as the old 8n. Ah well.. the good things are never easy.


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## XLENDI (Jul 22, 2019)

Pennies worth, when you pop the seal, pls check the crank shaft seal area. if machine has quite a few hours up on her, you may have a grove on the crank. Put a new seal this will damage the new seal very quickly. If you do have a wear grove , not like the old days is easy to fix now. 
Y


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## XLENDI (Jul 22, 2019)

you can get a speedy sleeve , comes with the tool to fit, new std seal will fit no problem.
Saves a whole mess of work. If grove is deep just apply some 577 loctite pipe thread sealant
before you fit the sleeve.


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