# 2000BD 4wd problems



## ktm rider (Aug 19, 2006)

I noticed a horrible noise coming from my left ( drivers side) knuckle and that oil was leaking pretty good from the top of the knuckle itself.
I tore it down only to find the long rod that runs through the entire assembly,steering rod for lack the actual name of it. looked like a dog chewed on it.  #44, See schematic below marked INTERAL)
the needle bearings were shot and some of the teeth on the front drive gear, #52 are wore but useable. 

What I think it should be a fairly easy fix but, what I was wondering is what in the world holds #30 to number #27? ( in the external attachment) and keeps those two cases tight together so the gasket can do its job? The only bolts that connect the two are the 4 small bolts that the steering arm #35 hooks to the lower case #32 and that is it !!! How can I be sure this doesn't come apart again ands am I missing something about this setup? any help???

I know this is a little confusing but it's the best I could do and I don't have a manual ,,,,Yet .




Internal pics:
http://www.hoyetractor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=20004WDINTERN

External pics:
http://www.hoyetractor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=20004WDEXTERNAL


----------



## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

FROM Your Drawings, Unless I missed it the answer to your dilema and beyond is a fresh assembly (new bearings and etc) and NEW CIRCLE CLIPS!!


----------



## ktm rider (Aug 19, 2006)

Dean,

everything looks pretty good in there. I was just wondering what holds that assembly up thight? I wouldn't think it was designed with just those 4 small bolts holding it, but I guess it was.
I think I am going to try and make it work. The main reason being is that just one of the gears in there cost about $150. !!!


----------



## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

According to your drawing as I read it the entire assembly is held laterally intact by snap rings while the torque forces are absorbed by the bearing surfaces and a partial failure of same is to blame for what you now have!!


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

Ktm,

Hoye's diagram of the internal shows what I suspected after reading your posts. #60 - Nut, #45 and #46 shims to the upper housing on the keyed shaft of the king pin...this applies pressure to the knuckle seal. The king-pin and knuckle assembly are designed to work under load (off the jack stands or floor jack) and you can adjust the steering stiffness by adding or removing the shims (over the drag link arm - #'s 45+46) which also increases pressure to the large knuckle seal.

After reassembly, any steering drag and seal pressure adjustments should be made with your tractor on the ground....but usually not necessary.

Mark


----------



## ktm rider (Aug 19, 2006)

Thanks Mark. SOmehow I totally destroyed the keyed shaft and the needle bearings halfway down the shaft. I wonder how that happened. any guesses?


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

Knuckle seals.

The FWD axles are tenacious by design. Almost indestructible...but once the knuckle seal is torn or damaged - the constant contamination of fine silt, water, mixed with gear oil, acts like a lapidary grinding compound and destroys the needle bearings, spacers and eventually the king pin. The last to go and unfortunately the first indication by noise....are the beveled gears. The knuckle assembly continues to compress just from the shear weight of the tractor. It seems that this is a location specific problem (I mean Japanese rice paddies) as I've never repaired one more than once .

Mark


----------



## ktm rider (Aug 19, 2006)

So does the gasket sit inside the lip of the knuckle or on top. Mine seems to sit inside the lip. Is there a burrber gasket that is sandwiched in between the knuckle and the upper "bell" looking housing? If so, I think mine was previously worked on and these gaskets not put in place. However, I do not see such gaskets on the Hoye site schematics...
If not what do you think about adding your own gasket there? Such asmaybe a piece of a bike inner tube for more protection abainst the salt, mud, water.. etc...

It seems to me that with no gasket in between the two, water is surew to creep in there.


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

If you refer to Hoye's internal diagram it would be #31. It is, incidentally the largest seal on a Yanmar 4WD tractor.

It is an inverted double 'U' design and SS spring reinforced - sealing the bottom knuckle/king pin housing (at the top) and then sealing the top of the knuckle housing (at the bottom) when reassembled....(sorry, clear as mud). They're pricey too, running between $30 - $40 each depending on the model.

I'm not sure how you would benefit from making and additional gasket and I think once you acquire a new seal you will see how large and precision they are manufactured for a very close tolerance fit.

Mark


----------



## ktm rider (Aug 19, 2006)

Thanks for the info Mark, I appreciate it.

After looking at the diagram again, are you sure it is #31? that looks like a drive shaft part??


----------



## ktm rider (Aug 19, 2006)

Nevermind it is #31 on the external drawing.. Thanks, sorry for the mixup...
You're right, pricey indeed. $38 for one.


----------



## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

> _Originally posted by ktm rider _
> *Nevermind it is #31 on the external drawing.. Thanks, sorry for the mixup...
> You're right, pricey indeed. $38 for one. *


No...you were right, it was external #31 and I said internal.

Sorry.


----------

