# Help with my grandfather’s 8N



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

Howdy,
I rescued my grandfather’s 8N and have begun restoring it. The trouble is, I can’t identify the year, and can’t narrow down certain parts to order. Everything I’ve looked at online isn’t helping, but I’ve managed to locate the serial number on the block *8N54026. Can any experts help? Maybe I’m looking in the wrong place, or just not understanding how the serials run.




  








4F81DAC7-9979-4714-8663-2D7121AF5541.jpeg




__
Officerdoofy1234


__
Jan 8, 2022












  








9E9831F3-B16A-41AA-8AFC-D40BC80AF3B1.jpeg




__
Officerdoofy1234


__
Jan 8, 2022












  








5263E689-4A59-4750-A1A2-962AC73346BE.jpeg




__
Officerdoofy1234


__
Jan 8, 2022












  








0E3F06A2-C5B7-4E6B-8BA7-E94ECB9F3CF3.jpeg




__
Officerdoofy1234


__
Jan 8, 2022


----------



## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Gosh, I wish I could find my Pa's old 8N that he had and then sold off. I have a good envy right now for you. Make you dad proud.  

See attached of the document you may need. It could be of some help.


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

bmaverick said:


> Gosh, I wish I could find my Pa's old 8N that he had and then sold off. I have a good envy right now for you. Make you dad proud.
> 
> See attached of the document you may need. It could be of some help.


Mechanically it appears in good shape, its already been swapped for 12v, but the alternator and wiring has seen better days. I’ll do my best, hopefully your information will give me what I’m looking for. Thanks!


----------



## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Good Morning Officerdoofy, welcome to the forum. 

Your 8N was built in early 1948. See attached tractordata sheet.

https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/2/223-ford-8n.html


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum. It sure looks like an early 8N, front mount distributor and all, but the front wheels don't match up. 
Your tractor could be a mix of older "N" parts. Does it have a 4 speed transmission? That would make it an 8N, and the serial number of the engine also makes it an 8N. The front wheels/hubs look to be from a 2N or a 9N.


----------



## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Do you know if the engine has ever been replaced?


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

I’m not sure, but my understanding is these cast parts were unique to one another. Here’s some photos of the other numbers. Maybe y’all have some insight.




  








5C54556B-3318-4A55-8493-F7C39EAA6303.jpeg




__
Officerdoofy1234


__
Jan 9, 2022












  








1F067756-E3A1-4154-9220-5CDE05035304.jpeg




__
Officerdoofy1234


__
Jan 9, 2022












  








3AE881A6-2E9F-4559-88FA-E82958205822.jpeg




__
Officerdoofy1234


__
Jan 9, 2022


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum. It sure looks like an early 8N, front mount distributor and all, but the front wheels don't match up.
> Your tractor could be a mix of older "N" parts. Does it have a 4 speed transmission? That would make it an 8N, and the serial number of the engine also makes it an 8N. The front wheels/hubs look to be from a 2N or a 9N.


I believe it is a 4-speed, but don’t quote me on that. My background is carpentry, so this is a new area for me.


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum. It sure looks like an early 8N, front mount distributor and all, but the front wheels don't match up.
> Your tractor could be a mix of older "N" parts. Does it have a 4 speed transmission? That would make it an 8N, and the serial number of the engine also makes it an 8N. The front wheels/hubs look to be from a 2N or a 9N.


I also noticed the wheels on her are 5 lug, not 6 lug like an original 48’. I’ll have to replace the hub and rotor in order to get the correct wheels on it.


----------



## VFord8N (Aug 18, 2013)

You can not judge whether it is an 8N or mix of N's. Only after years I found out mine was an 8N engine in a 2N chasis. The engine serial number was an 8N but there is little else on the chasis to confirm that. How did I find out? Some parts did not fit which made me suspcious. It's unique accessory of a stack air vent made the chasis a 2N thanks to the members of this group's advice. Unless you are building a classic, it really does not matter if it is a mix or not. If it's nice and working then all is good.


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

VFord8N said:


> You can not judge whether it is an 8N or mix of N's. Only after years I found out mine was an 8N engine in a 2N chasis. The engine serial number was an 8N but there is little else on the chasis to confirm that. How did I find out? Some parts did not fit which made me suspcious. It's unique accessory of a stack air vent made the chasis a 2N thanks to the members of this group's advice. Unless you are building a classic, it really does not matter if it is a mix or not. If it's nice and working then all is good.


You’re absolutely right, I just want to bring it back to life. It’s not a show piece, and I plan to use it for its intended purpose, but it’d also be nice to bring it to a state where it’s beautiful as well as functional. I’ve got two other tractors for the hard and dirt stuff (Zetor & Mahindra), this Ford will be like the fancy little brother that works occasionally.


----------



## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Officerdoofy1234 said:


> You’re absolutely right, I just want to bring it back to life. It’s not a show piece, and I plan to use it for its intended purpose, but it’d also be nice to bring it to a state where it’s beautiful as well as functional. I’ve got two other tractors for the hard and dirt stuff (Zetor & Mahindra), this Ford will be like the fancy little brother that works occasionally.


 8n rear half....both brakes on right.
Front is likely 2
trans...probly 4 speed....if not its 2 or 9
Possible front axle was changed at some point.
Hard to pin down the History of some of these. Lots of field fixs in the last 70 years.


----------



## VFord8N (Aug 18, 2013)

Officerdoofy1234 said:


> You’re absolutely right, I just want to bring it back to life. It’s not a show piece, and I plan to use it for its intended purpose, but it’d also be nice to bring it to a state where it’s beautiful as well as functional. I’ve got two other tractors for the hard and dirt stuff (Zetor & Mahindra), this Ford will be like the fancy little brother that works occasionally.


Since the tractor is in pieces, I would put in new wiring and make sure you put in the requisite guage wire (or higher) as I had many a problem with mine. The other thing is to paint where and when you can as many things are accessible easily now but will not in future years,


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

thedukes said:


> 8n rear half....both brakes on right.
> Front is likely 2
> trans...probly 4 speed....if not its 2 or 9
> Possible front axle was changed at some point.
> Hard to pin down the History of some of these. Lots of field fixs in the last 70 years.


Yessir, my local old timer tells me they get Frankenstein’d over the years because many of the parts are interchangeable between the models.


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

VFord8N said:


> Since the tractor is in pieces, I would put in new wiring and make sure you put in the requisite guage wire (or higher) as I had many a problem with mine. The other thing is to paint where and when you can as many things are accessible easily now but will not in future years,


I’m thinking 6awg for battery cables, and I believe the battery group is 26 that’ll fit in the factory tray. I’m trying to source a gas tank that’ll fit, I’ve read some stories of fellas beating down the Chinese replacements to get them to fit under the hood. Also trying to source decent starter, carb, and front distributor. I’ve heard many of the Zenith ones fail pretty quick, and many of the carbs leak. Paint will happen as soon as I knock all the rust off her.


----------



## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Where you at?
I got a tank I'd give you ...I'm in Oregon.
Whats the deal with your starter?....missing or dead?
You converting to 12v or leaving 6v.
Your aware these are Positive ground in the factory configuration?
However they will run either way.
Once converted to 12v.....I'm not up on which one is ground + or -.
We keep ours 6v.....generator is dead but will run on a battery a long long time.
Got 2 batteries so no big deal.


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

thedukes said:


> Where you at?
> I got a tank I'd give you ...I'm in Oregon.
> Whats the deal with your starter?....missing or dead?
> You converting to 12v or leaving 6v.
> ...


I’m in San Antonio, TX. I have to check the starter on a multimeter but I doubt it’ll be functional. It has been switched to a 12v system but the alternator has seen better days as well. I’ll have to check a 12v wiring diagram out regarding the 12v ground as opposed to 6v ground. I’d think it’d be similar to traditional 12v system but I don’t know for sure. She has been sitting, uncovered, on our cattle ranch for about 20 years.


----------



## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Cost of 6v components has gone crazy.
Hopefully you can save starter.
Alt should be no big deal...typical 12v conversion uses a chevy 1 wire alt. and they used to be everywhere and cheap.
Likely has water in trans..look at the oil.
Engage pto on left....turn shaft on rear with a cresent or poke screwdriver through hole in shaft ( unless it has over run clutch on it) ..lift 3 point control lever......this will raise 3 point hitch if all that system is working.
lots of avl info out there and parts for nearly all of it are avl..


----------



## VFord8N (Aug 18, 2013)

Officerdoofy1234 said:


> I’m thinking 6awg for battery cables, and I believe the battery group is 26 that’ll fit in the factory tray. I’m trying to source a gas tank that’ll fit, I’ve read some stories of fellas beating down the Chinese replacements to get them to fit under the hood. Also trying to source decent starter, carb, and front distributor. I’ve heard many of the Zenith ones fail pretty quick, and many of the carbs leak. Paint will happen as soon as I knock all the rust off her.


I have used Steiner for all my parts. They have what I need; I even got a new gas tank from them. Sometimes they have discounts and free contiguous US continental shipping. (Sadly it doesn't apply to me in Canada). You can look up parts on their on-line catalogue. Cheap parts are not always the best buy; buyer beware!


----------



## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

_ I like to solder the wire ends of my battery cables.........._


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

Good morning ya'll! 

Sorry for the delay, I've been working on this tractor on and off since I got her; but as expected, the deeper I dig the more trouble I find. Below are some updated pictures but I'd like to get the community's feedback on a few things;

-What are ya'lls thoughts on the block? There's a bit of pitting (I think from untreated exhaust leak) but I'm nervous about machining it.

-It took about three days for a noticeable drop in the levels of ATF I poured in all cylinders to check the rings out (number 4 cylinder only took about a 24 hours). Are the rings shot, or could the fluid just be moving passed them, like the breaks in the rings are aligned, allowing fluid to pass through quicker? 

-How can you identify rotating vs. non-rotating valves? (I believe original came with non-rotating valves, but they could've been swapped at some point)

-What are ya'lls thoughts on the valves? My intent was to lap them but I feel like that pitting on #4 could be a problem. I've heard JB Weld hi-temp, the gasket, and some permatex are a good solution for minor pitting because this tractor can run at really low PSI (like 30-40). Can I salvage the valves? Should I replace them? Should I replace the entire valve system (valves, guides, retainers, springs, etc.)?

I'm doubting this tractor will ever be suitable for farm work again, so I'm now just trying to get her running well before I really clean her up. I appreciate the heck out of you guys!


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

Officerdoofy1234 said:


> Good morning ya'll!
> 
> Sorry for the delay, I've been working on this tractor on and off since I got her; but as expected, the deeper I dig the more trouble I find. Below are some updated pictures but I'd like to get the community's feedback on a few things;
> 
> ...


I've also got a weird problem with the flywheel pulley bolt. It looks like it may have been rounded off and a slit cut into it at some point...ya'll think I should replace it?


----------



## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Officerdoofy1234 said:


> I've also got a weird problem with the flywheel pulley bolt. It looks like it may have been rounded off and a slit cut into it at some point...ya'll think I should replace it?


You talking about the bolt on the front of Crankshaft....Front of tractor??

If yes.....that slot is for the optional Hand Crank.......It clips on to one of the rear fenders ( the one with the 2 clips)


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

thedukes said:


> You talking about the bolt on the front of Crankshaft....Front of tractor??
> 
> If yes.....that slot is for the optional Hand Crank.......It clips on to one of the rear fenders ( the one with the 2 clips)


Yeah, sorry...that was a long day and my brain was mush. The bolt that runs through the crankshaft pulley is the one I was talking about. I'll try and snap a picture but the bolt is so bad that I cant tell if it was rounded off and someone slotted it, or both. I can't get in there to remove it without dismantling the front axle pivot, and my sockets are too thick to fit through the front axle pivot pin. The ratchet nut is part #6319 in the manual, but what's in there now looks completely different.


----------



## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Some tractors ran a pump off the front whan FEL were added.
Perhaps its whatever bolt it was changed too for that.

Get a pic if possible
Yea...its a bunch of work to get to that bolt.

Why are you wanting to replace this now.....wait for a reason to go there.
Might be looking for a problem that will multiply.....


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

Update: The tractor is coming along nicely. I'm about to take a look at the hydraulics, but I can't seem to remove the old yoke pin from the PTO shaft. I've watched all the videos, looked at diagrams, and no luck. Any tractor gurus have an idea on how to get this out of there?


----------



## Vanman08 (Aug 1, 2020)

Looks like you need a good penetrating oil. I like PB Blaster or Kroil.


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

Vanman08 said:


> Looks like you need a good penetrating oil. I like PB Blaster or Kroil.


I have soaked this thing in penetrating oil for days and beat on it but it won't budge. I'm suspecting this isn't the actual yoke pin, but some type of field repair done in the past.


----------



## Officerdoofy1234 (Jan 8, 2022)

thedukes said:


> Some tractors ran a pump off the front whan FEL were added.
> Perhaps its whatever bolt it was changed too for that.
> 
> Get a pic if possible
> ...


I'm not going to bother with it unless I end up having to split the tractor and do the piston rings/sleeves. If I end up having to go that far, I may as well replace the crankshaft bolt too.


----------



## linquistmarc (5 mo ago)

I was going to repaint mine and then just got to liking that historic rustic look and now I'm glad I kept the vintage rustic patina. I get a lot of thumbs up's when I take a trip down to the hardware store. Those cylinder walls, valves and pistons on your tractor look pretty good cleaned up. Was there much of a ridge at the top of the cylinder? That will give an idea of how much wall material has been worn away, the ridge is the original cylinder bore where the rings' and piston's frictional wear limit undercut the ridge area over time. From the pics it doesn't look bad at all. Mine sat for years and smoked a little at first start because of the oil that I had poured in the plug hole and let soak, but soon it was running clean and clear. You might get by with just a simple valve job, or even just new valve guides and seals if you feel like gambling on the cylinders and piston rings. It would be nice to know what the compression was of each one to make a decision.


----------



## Joe.S.AK (Nov 26, 2020)

Deerhide -Tthat soldering bit is certainly the mark of a wise and seasoned tractor guy. ☺


----------

