# YM2000 Update & Questions.



## Chris

Well, I have been running my YM2000 for a few months now.
Finally in the home stretch on my home rebuild and property restoration after Katrina. It has taken a while and so much to work on. Pics on all of that to come soon! 

Finally got my YM2000 out bushhogging then I had problems with the implement hitting the paddle wheel rear tires, no matter much I tighten up the chains on the lift/sway arms. It was banging so badly on turns that I literally started to tear up the heavyduty bushhog, losing pins/bolts, everything. Finally got it fixed by flipping the lift pins to the inside on the bushhog! It works perfect with no problems!

Fast forward to today....let the diesel die in the field, ran out of gas....refilled....then crank, crank, crank...no fire! (this is a machine that has started 1st time everytime) ----- oh lordy, checked the fuel filter, about 1/4 full....hmmmm....dropped it, cleaned it, started the fuel, nothing....drained it, checked the fuel lines, everything OK..... Hmmmm, was that Diesel gas after all in that gas container labelled "D" ---- I thought it was! 

Went over to neighbor...."Mr. Restoration" ---- said pull the lines to the injectors.....you got air in the lines when you let it die. played around a little more, ended up unscrewing some bolt near what looks like a carb plate (before the lines leave right side to go to the injectors) ---- fuel finally was flowing, then I tightened it back up.......checked it and INSTANT FIRE..... Oh, well guess he was right...Don't run out of gas. 

Being my first Diesel implement......what is the difference in terms of maintenance and such vs. a gasoline? What is the recommended oil for the engine? I have been cleaning the radiator screen, changed oil/filter, air filter, fuel etc. ------ 
Anything else? Tranny fluid?

Thanks so much! 
Oh, here is a little pic of the YM2000....(wants to be a JD)
The picture is old (original ad pic for the tractor) ---- 
:furious:

<center><img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/ym2000.jpg></center>

Will post more soon!
Andy


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## mark777

Andy,

I'm glad things are working out with the ym2000. I was beginning to think that you were very unhappy about the size and choice you made.

Had the same exact problem and fix with my 4 footers (Howse) and reversed the pins to the inside.

Although your neighbor was correct about the air in the fuel lines it's never necessary or even a good idea to loosen or remove the fuel pipes between the pump and injectors. 

There are three 10mm cap screws, two on the top of the fuel filter assembly and one at the banjo fitting on the pump. Starting with the first (and closest)to the fuel tank, open cap screw and allow to drain fuel for several (10) seconds and then snug it down and go to the second and follow the same pattern. Do the last at the pump banjo fitting and it purges all the air bubbles out of the system BEFORE the pump. Any air after the pump is 'hydraulicked" through the fuel pipes and injectors on the first few spins of your starter....It will fire immediately. It is the one design that Yanmar stuck with on all the YM models.

Any good 10W-40 'diesel rated' engine oil for operation above 40° and change at intervals of 100 hours.

And hydraulic-trans fluid rated JD-303 or it's equivalent...add or top off if low. Replace when system is dirty or when hydraulics work slow. Drain (5 GALLONS), clean internal stainless steel screen and replace fluid every 150-200 hours.

Grease drag line, tie rods and ball joints every 100 hours.

Air Filter & Fuel Filter every 100 hours or sooner in dusty conditions.

Check, drain and replace steering box lube (80-90wt) every 300 hours.

Replace coolant every 150 hours with the proper 30/70 anti-freeze to water ratio. 

Remove and clean valve cover breather assembly - internal SS wire mesh for crank case breather...every 100 hours.

Adjust valves at .006 COLD both intake and exhaust - Every 300 hours.

Every 500 hours - Remove the exhaust pipe and muffler, beat the snot out of it with a fair sized rubber mallet, pressure wash or high pressure garden hose both ends, hang it up vertically and let dry. It removes most of the carbon build up and diesel 'slobber'. 

I use a well recognized brand of Cetane booster (Power Service) in every other 5 gallons of fuel. It keeps mold, algae and engine exhaust (smoke) in check, services and lubricates the pump and fuel lines and keeps the engine hummin' with noticeable improvement of overall performance.

This may seem like a rigours maintenance schedule...but really, how many of us actually put more than 75-100 hours yearly on their machines ???.

Hope this helps,

Mark


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## Chris

Wow, incredible info as always, Mark! You are amazing. 

Now, if I just knew where the following items were:
drag line
steering lube fill and drain
valve cover breather assembly

Thanks so much!

What would happen if I used a standard 10/40wt not specifically made for "Diesel" ---- Is it bad? 

BTW, do have the cross part #s for everything handy? 
(Like oil filter/fuel filter etc?) 

Thanks so much!
:spinsmile


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## DixieTom

Howdy. Ive had a Yanmar round my place for about a two years now. Mine is a 4wd - Yanmar 276D - nice machine. I cannot say anything but good about my Yanmar. It has about 700 original hours and runs like a top. I too learned some stuff from Mark777's post. I have not flushed the radiator or the tranny fluids yet. I guess I need to get on that soon.


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## mark777

Sorry Andy,

Typo...that should read drag link!

Drain on the steering MAY be a small 1/8" pipe plug at the base, and the fill plug is on the inside of the column....very difficult to access. Lots of folks re-drill with a greasy 1/4" bit and install a new plug in a much more convenient place.

There should be a 'hump' or fitting that looks just like a thermostat housing on the valve cover )should have a rubber breather tube running straight down under the frame. That housing has a SS "Brillo Pad" like material folded inside.

***EDIT***OK, everything I said above does not apply to the YM2000 Green model. I just checked my parts books and it indicates either: two filler plugs for engine oil, or one filler plug and plate...NO breather - Sorry.

Regarding normal engine oil...I don't Know?? Never tried it. It may break down considerably faster from fuel contamination, but I'm not certain.

LOL...I'm afraid I have what you have for the YM2000. All very nice parts and service materials in Japanese pictogram's .

Hey Tom, Good to hear from ya'

Mark


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## twentynine

Hey Andy 

The most obvious things some times are the hardest to figure out. Thanks for the tip on reversing the pins on the BH. As simple as that sounds I didn't think of it.

mark777

Thanks to you sir!!!!!!!

For all the practical maint. tips and know how.


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## lafosser

On a Yanmar 2000 do you check the crankcase engine oil by screwing the dip stick down to check the level or not. Really not sure which. I saw a you tube that shows the guy screwing it down then unscrewing it and taking it out to check. Not sure if this is right or not.


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## lafosser

How do you check the engine oil on a Yanmar 2000. Do you screw the dip stick down, then unscrew it to check or do you just stick in the hold and pull it out to check. Can seem to find this simple info anywhere.


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## bmaverick

olds, Jump over to http://www.hoyetractor.com/ and look down the left column. There you will find a slew of technical and knowledge articles for the Yanmar tractors. Even an article to bleed the fuel lines. Like you need to know that now. LOL


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## winston

Instructions on page 67 of YM240 operators manual states to rest dip stick on top of threads, do not screw in.


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