# 2 bottom plow - advice



## flmaxey (May 29, 2016)

I'm on a budget and I'm looking to pick up a "legacy" 2 bottom plow (hopefully with 16" moldboards) to use with a 245 Massey Ferguson, on the cheap. In looking over CL, it seems that there a number of used choices in the $300 +/- range. The questions I have may seem simple but need to be asked of those with some real experience.
(BTW, in looking at the following, note that I'll only be planting 3 or 4 acres, maybe a bit more later, so nothing I buy will be overworked.)

- In reading up, as it seems, all plows are not equal. Name brands (JD or MF for example) are praised as being better, harder, thicker, and not as easy to break when compared to an add-on maker like County Line. (County Line sells a new 2 bottom for about $850) Is there any advice here?

- I've noted that some plows are somewhat adjustable, while most seem to be fixed. Is adjustability important?

- While I'd rather stay with a 3pt, any ideas on the tow-able plows with tires? What's the advantages / disadvantage of using this type? 
(I'd really rather not store one of these outsized rigs or mess around with flats and other tire maintenance. There would have to be compelling reason to go this way.)

- Some plows seem to turn over better than others. I image that has something to do with soil type, top cover, plowing depth, etc., but design can't be ignored. Is turn over a design item where a name brand or being adjustable makes a difference?

- Finally, other than chipped, cracked or otherwise damaged moldboards, I'm guessing that rust from sitting (provided that it's not severe) doesn't matter much to the function. Regardless, are there any plow conditions that I should look for and avoid?

- I have no ballast in the tires of the 245MF. Will blast be necessary to pull a 2 bottom, while breaking new ground? (The cover is orchard grass and other mixed hay.)
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Along similar lines, I bought a 3 row, 9 shovel spring loaded cultivator on the cheap, that was rusted up. With a bit of hardware replacement and some new shovels (3 or 4 out of 9) it' in working condition. I believe it was made somewhere in the 50's to the 70's out of *thick* angle iron. It's one of those steel beasts from back in the day. I'm looking to do the same with a 2 bottom plow and a disk harrow.

Anything offered will be appreciated.
Thanks


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Hello flmaxey, 

I would stick with a name brand (used) plow like Ford, JD. MF, IH, etc. Three point mount is the only way to go. A sulky/pull behind plow is a PITA.

There is not much adjusting to do to a plow. You can adjust the leveling box on your tractor's lift link. 

Some plows do turn over soil better than others. The best one I recall had a section of truck leaf spring attached to the mold board which extended its roll over capability. Worked noticeably better.

You shouldn't need any ballast to pull a 2 bottom plow.


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## flmaxey (May 29, 2016)

*Thanks for the response*

I got a Ford 3 bottom plow for $300 on CL! It's in good shape with recently replaced wear surfaces. With a few bits of new hardware, it will be as good as new. (Better than new actually. The older stuff has *thick* high quality steel.)
This plow has "doodads" (technical term) at the top of the mold boards for the extra bit of turn. It also has adjustment which amounts to twist (for leveling) on the 3pt link. I agree you. It seems much easier to adjust the tractor's lift arms to level it off.
I've been reading that a 45hp (MF245) can pull a 3 bottom. With the soil I have, loamy and without hard pan, I'm hoping it will work without ballast. We'll see this fall. In any case, this plow is set up so that it's easy to drop a mold board, turning it into a 2 bottom.

Again, thanks for the reply and advice.


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