# Where to find an used Drive Motor for my 50" Simplicity Champion Zero Turn



## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

I posted a while about some help on an issue we were having. I have just learned it is the drive motor. We have used this very little so it obviously was sold to us in this condition this past spring and I can't in good conscious pass this problem on to someone else. 

Does anyone have any ideas on where to get a used drive motor (I believe the part number to be 5023091SM)? We are in a small rural town in Iowa and lawn more graveyards are not much of a choice here. Does it have to be OEM?

We purchased it on the high side and have since sunk money into all belts, blades and etc. A new one is out of the question. 

Any assistance you can provide would be greatly appreciated.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> I posted a while about some help on an issue we were having. I have just learned it is the drive motor. We have used this very little so it obviously was sold to us in this condition this past spring and I can't in good conscious pass this problem on to someone else.
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas on where to get a used drive motor (I believe the part number to be 5023091SM)? We are in a small rural town in Iowa and lawn more graveyards are not much of a choice here. Does it have to be OEM?
> 
> ...


That part # is from Ferris.... If you use that part # number in your search, all you'll see are high $$$ drive motors because of the Ferris name. It's a Hydro-Gear drive motor...... The actual Hydro-Gear Part # is* HGM-12P-7172*. Here's the best deal I could find for a new one. Before you die of shock over $400, that's about 1/2 the price you'll normally see on line
Ferris Drive Motor

You didn't say your level of mechanical talent, but they are relatively easy to rebuild and the kits are cheap compared to others

*Seal Kit:
*Hydro Gear 70626-1
ON OR BEFORE SERIAL # 5146N10001 $135

*Seal Kit:
*Hydro Gear 70626-2
AFTER SERIAL # 5146N10001 $100

*Bearing Kit:
*Hydro Gear: 71501 $112

*Service Manual:
*Hydro Gear: BLN-52197 $18

Here's where you can buy those parts at those prices. It's the 3rd listing from the top
HGHGM-12P-7172 rebuild parts

If you do find that motor used, it's probably going to run $300-$400 because it's off a Ferris, and it's a roll of the dice if it's any better than the one you got.

Here's a blow-up of the actual internal parts in that motor....
HGM-12P-7172 rebuild parts diagram


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## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

Bob Driver said:


> That part # is from Ferris.... If you use that part # number in your search, all you'll see are high $$$ drive motors because of the Ferris name. It's a Hydro-Gear drive motor...... The actual Hydro-Gear Part # is* HGM-12P-7172*. Here's the best deal I could find for a new one. Before you die of shock over $400, that's about 1/2 the price you'll normally see on line
> Ferris Drive Motor
> 
> You didn't say your level of mechanical talent, but they are relatively easy to rebuild and the kits are cheap compared to others
> ...


Oh my gosh - you are my new hero for all of that information!!! When you say they are not hard to rebuild - for someone that can only change oil and blades?

Thanks.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> Oh my gosh - you are my new hero for all of that information!!! When you say they are not hard to rebuild - for someone that can only change oil and blades?
> 
> Thanks.


Judge for yourself..... Here's the Factory Service Manual from Hydro-gear with the detailed instructions. The only real internal wear item is the gear rotor set. You have to tear it down and measure the clearance with a feeler gauge to know if it needs replaced. More than .004 clearance on most gear rotor sets is replacement time. That gear rotor set might run as high as $200, plus $135 for the seal kit, puts you at $335.

Here's a link to Amazon showing one for $390.... *But* scroll down and look for the *USED* one from the Amazon warehouse for $230. It's probably an Amazon return with damaged packaging. I'd be all over that one, if I were in your situation.

Amazon warehouse Used Motor $230

Hydro-Gear Service Manual


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Really, the hardest [art is getting the drive out of the mower frame. Simple hand tools and some Torx sockets take it apart and a little common sense puts it back together again (and some fresh oil too)


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

SidecarFlip said:


> Really, the hardest [art is getting the drive out of the mower frame. Simple hand tools and some Torx sockets take it apart and a little common sense puts it back together again (and some fresh oil too)


With a weak full blown hydraulic drive systems (pump & drive motor), you really need to test it with a flow meter. Most guys don't have them, but it's the only way to know if it's a weak pump or drive motor. Degree of difficulty to rebuild either one is about the same. Once you determine which component is weak (low flow - excessive return flow), it's the internal wear parts that can run into some serious $$$ and the only way to determine that is disassemble and measure to compare to wear specs. Gerotor sets and pump housings aren't cheap....

Flow meters aren't cheap either and unless you work on a lot of hydraulic drive units, they're not really practical for the toolbox of the average DIY mechanic. A Hydro Gear 70661 BDP Flow meter runs about $750 retail. I bought mine several years ago for $200 from a guy that was closing his mower shop and retiring. It's made me a bunch of $$$ over the years and saves the drama of guessing which component is weak. I've torn down many a unit to find out that by the time you buy the replacement wear parts and added the total labor, it's a better option to just buy new and get the factory warranty.

70661 Flowmeter


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## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

I ordered the used one - I will let you know how it turns! Thanks for all of the good advice.

Pat


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> I ordered the used one - I will let you know how it turns! Thanks for all of the good advice.
> 
> Pat


I've had pretty good luck with those kinds of deals on Amazon, that's why I noticed it. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.


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## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

Update - I ordered the part from Amazon - the one wherein the box was beat to hell. Attached is the picture of part - perfectly fine - not a scratch!!!


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## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

Now for the bad news. We need more help. How do we get to the motor bolts? From the outside or inside? Does the brake drum have to come off and if so - how do we get it off? The pictures are two of the outside and one of the inside.

I would appreciate any help we can get!! I'm only the cleanup crew and question gal. My better half is the pretend mechanic!!!

Thanks.


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## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

New question - can you get the brake off without a wheel puller?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> New question - can you get the brake off without a wheel puller?


Brake drum needs to come off.... Undo the castle nut and see if you can tap it off with a hammer and a drift or big punch. You'll need to back the brakes off on that side to get the brake drum to slide off. Rotate and tap to keep it coming off even. It looks from the parts diagram like there is a brake backing plate that holds the brake shoes behind the brake drum and the backing plate bolts to the face of the drive motor. I believe you'll be able to see the drive motor mounting bolts once you get the brake backing plate off. See the "Brake Group" tab in the link below. Make sure to mark the hydraulic hoses when you take them off, you don't want to get them crossed. Hook them back up in the same position as they came off the old drive motor. I'm happy you got that new drive motor for cheap, but that is a full blown hydraulic drive system and you could also have a weak pump on that side.... 90% of the time, the problem is the drive motor

Simplicity Champion Brake Part Diagram


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## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

Bob Driver said:


> Brake drum needs to come off.... Undo the castle nut and see if you can tap it off with a hammer and a drift or big punch. You'll need to back the brakes off on that side to get the brake drum to slide off. Rotate and tap to keep it coming off even. It looks from the parts diagram like there is a brake backing plate that holds the brake shoes behind the brake drum and the backing plate bolts to the face of the drive motor. I believe you'll be able to see the drive motor mounting bolts once you get the brake backing plate off. See the "Brake Group" tab in the link below. Make sure to mark the hydraulic hoses when you take them off, you don't want to get them crossed. Hook them back up in the same position as they came off the old drive motor. I'm happy you got that new drive motor for cheap, but that is a full blown hydraulic drive system and you could also have a weak pump on that side.... 90% of the time, the problem is the drive motor
> 
> Simplicity Champion Brake Part Diagram





Bob Driver said:


> Brake drum needs to come off.... Undo the castle nut and see if you can tap it off with a hammer and a drift or big punch. You'll need to back the brakes off on that side to get the brake drum to slide off. Rotate and tap to keep it coming off even. It looks from the parts diagram like there is a brake backing plate that holds the brake shoes behind the brake drum and the backing plate bolts to the face of the drive motor. I believe you'll be able to see the drive motor mounting bolts once you get the brake backing plate off. See the "Brake Group" tab in the link below. Make sure to mark the hydraulic hoses when you take them off, you don't want to get them crossed. Hook them back up in the same position as they came off the old drive motor. I'm happy you got that new drive motor for cheap, but that is a full blown hydraulic drive system and you could also have a weak pump on that side.... 90% of the time, the problem is the drive motor
> 
> Simplicity Champion Brake Part Diagram


Any suggestions on how to get it off? We found a friend with a wheel puller. Didn't work. We can't budge it.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Might be able to use a harmonic balancer puller.... Looks like you could put a balancer puller across two opposite wheel studs and use washers and the lug nuts to secure it to the the straight slots of the puller fork. From the parts diagram, it looks like the wheel studs are built into the brake drum and you can use those to pull on just the hub, rather than trying to get that jaw puller to grip just the brake drum and not catch the backing plate. Be sure the brakes are backed off. Put as much tension on the puller bolt as you can and then smack the hex end with a big hammer. Tighten it some more and smack it again. Often the shock of the hammer blow will pop whatever you're pulling lose from the shaft and key way. When you go to put the brake drum back on the drive motor shaft, be sure to use anti-seize to avoid this problem in the future. Both Auto Zone and Advance Auto have balancer pullers in there "loaner tool" programs.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Good soaking with PBlaster or acetone and ATF with an application of heat from a propane torch might help.


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## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

Well, we made a homemade wheel puller. It worked and the motor is out. Next question - we (mostly him) are assuming the hose fittings from the old motor needs to go into the new motor? If that is the case - the hex nuts or whatever they are called don't seem to want to move. If the answer is yes, they need to come out we will try something else. Thoughts?

I bet everyone will be glad when we have this project done! Ha.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Soak them down with PBlaster or an acetone/atf mix and be patient for a day or two and apply some heat when removing. Don't use a West Virginia socket set (adjustable wrench) to remove them. Use the correct sized socket. I hardly ever use an adjustable wrench on anything because all they are good for is rounding off the flats and not much else.


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## [email protected] (Jun 2, 2021)

It works wonderfully!!!!!! THANK YOU WE APPRECIATE ALL OF THE HELP. It only took us 24 hours! HA


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