# MF TO-35 Delux, No Clutch



## rmhart (May 19, 2011)

Folks, I need some help. I have a Massie Ferguson TO-35 Delux. It only has 350 hours on a total rebuilt engine. Several years ago, we started with the crank and replaced most everything, including a new two stage clutch. It has leaked fluid from the transmission for some time. A local diesel mechanic friend of mine and I decided to replace the seals in the front of the transmission. We split the tractor, replaced the seals and put everything back together. We did not touch the clutch, only sprayed it with break pad cleaner. Now I can’t engage the clutch. It starts up perfectly in neutral, but you can get it in gear. Both the engine drive and the ground drive PTO options work as before. Obviously, we missed something when we put it back together, but I’m lost to identify our mistake. I would certainly welcome your feedback or ideas. THANKS


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Welcome to the tractor forum rmhart. 

Did your clutch work ok before you did the split? I think you are saying that the PTO clutch works ok but the drive clutch is not releasing (gears grind when you try to shift)? 

Does the PTO clutch work in the bottom half of the clutch stroke, as normal? If it is working high in the clutch stroke, you may need to adjust the clutch. If it is working as normal in the bottom half of the clutch stroke, your drive clutch may be stuck (PTO clutch operational). If so, I would try tying the clutch down for a few days (or more) to see if it will release.

Post back and give us a better description of what's happening.


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## rmhart (May 19, 2011)

*Thanks for the welcome.*

Actually, Big T, both of the clutches worked perfectly before the split. Now, neither functions. If I start the tractor in neutral, I can not shift into any gear, forward or reverse. If I start the tractor in first gear with the PTO engaged, stepping on the clutch does not stop the tractor or the PTO. So, I'm not getting first or second stage clutch.


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## rmhart (May 19, 2011)

A knowledgeable tractor man told me today that there are two set screws that hold the yoke that pushes the throw out bearing into the clutch. He said that the set screws must be inserted in the indentations in the clutch rod. If the set screws are not properly set the yoke can rotate on the shaft and not push the throw out bearing far enough into the clutch. That was the only thing he could think of since the tractor went back together properly and the transmission and PTO work fine.
Does anyone have experience in this area?


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Fords have a thru bolt that that attaches the yoke to the clutch shaft. This bolt can be sheared and result in the same thing....no clutch. The holes in the yoke and clutch shaft have to be lined up, so I can see the set screws have to align with dimples on the clutch shaft.

You really need a manual to guide you through these details.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Regardless of how the fork is secured to the cross shaft, if that were your problem, then there would be little or no resistance when pushing down the clutch pedal. No resistance = no effort being applied = no work being done. On the other hand, if the pedal feels as it did before, then the fork is not the problem. 
Revisit what was done to the clutch. It was not removed/dismantled in any way? Simply hosed down with brake cleaner? That may have seemed like a good idea at the time, but may also have allowed some of what you rinsed OFF to dribble down inside, and caused the plates to stick once dried. Not necessarily a given, but certainly possible, depending on how much and where the cleaner was applied.


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