# Cub Cadet 2186 won´t move after oil- and filter change



## JohnK

After I changed the transmission oil (I filled in a 15W40 motor oil) and filter (I ordered one with the original cub cadet number and my dealer sold me a Donaldson P550940) my Cub Cadet 2186 drove only a few meters forward and made a gringing noise (like the gearing get damaged) till it stopped and didn't move anywhere.
After asking a service man on phone I ordered an original filter and also the original Cub Cadet hydro oil - bud it´s still not moving.
After searching the internet I did what there is recommended.
I ran the tractor with the axle off the ground for minutes bud it didn´t help.
As I heard the noise (like the gearing get damaged) I thought something must be damaged and be replaced.
So I talked again with the serviceman, opened the hydro pump and the transaxle and searched for a damaged part - but all seems in good shape.
Could the gearing of the hydro pump worn out so that they have not enough connection to the shaft (running time 300 h)?
Do you have any idea? 
Thanks for answering!


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## Jim_WV

Did you do a purge procedure ?. I don't know what type of transmission your CC has, but from what I get out of your post it is a hydrostatic. Here is the proper purge procedure from Tuff Torq corp. for their hydro's.

https://www.tufftorqservices.com/EnvEEdefault/FlatHTML/TechInfo/docs/AirPurging.htm

The other thing I'm gleaning from your post is about the grinding noise, yet you can not find any damage or wear on the gears. It sounds to me like if the gear(s) are not worn then it could be possible the pump/motor part of the hydro is not functioning as it should. It does not take much wear on these to cause the fluid to flow properly and operate the hydro as it should. Thus you will hear what sounds like " grinding noises ", when it is in fact the pump/motor struggling to operate the transmission as it should. The oil is not flowing good. 

Again this is the experience I've encountered with a Tuff Torq transmission refill and rebuild. 

Try the purge procedure as outlined in the link above and let us know.


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## JohnK

I did a purge procedure two times, a little different than described at your link (jacked with wheels off floor but not repeating opening and closing bypass).
The second time I did it I had to add oil so I think it worked - but it still won´t move.

The transmission of my CC is a hydrostatic with drive shaft (hydro-gear BDU-10L-221, transaxle Model 618-3081A).

The grinding noice I heard was only while driving till it stopped.
When I move my CC now forward I hear a faint noise that seems to me like worn gears, backwards there is no noise like this.
As I rebuild my CC and started the engine there is no other noise to hear.
Could it be the check valves?
I will check them and try the purge procedure as outlined in the link.


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## Jim_WV

I don't know John, at a loss, other than guessing. Just not familiar enough with the Hydro Gear trannys. I did look at a schematic of the BDU-10L here http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Hydrogear/Hydrogear_Search.html , did see that according to their chart, the model 221 does not list a by-pass valve, which is needed for purge procedure listed above to work properly , but noticed it has a couple cylinder block kits, (item 32) on the diagram which was the culprit in my Tuff Torq that caused all the problem. The cylinder wall is smooth and allows for flow control of the fluid, mine was scored and fluid was not getting through correctly to permit good hydro operation. Changed that out and machine acted like new. 

Because your CC is shaft drive, and your Hydro Gear is somewhat different I can not say for sure that is your problem . 

Hope some of the CC guys can chime in and offer some insight, best of luck .


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## JohnK

Jim, purge procedure for a CC is described at another thread as: "to purge the hydro pump is done by jacking the rear wheels off the ground and then with the bypass valve, the rod you pull to roll the tractor, in the freewheel position, ......"
Maybe my HydroGear is a little different to purge then the Tuff Torq.
The cylinder block kits are looking fine.
Tomorrow I will take a look at items 42b (check valve kit) and 53 (bypass valve kit).

Than I will reassemble my CC and make another try.

Thanks for your help


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## wjjones

Is the belt on good? I would check all the linkage as well it might be in a bind somewhere.


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## JohnK

It´s a direct drive shaft.

I think it might be the hydro pump, because as I rolled the transaxle without the pump on it I saw that the gear (the connection between the pump and transmission) is turning. (please apologize if I take the wrong words )
May it be right?

As I tried the last time to drive my CC I believe that the forward pedal was hard to press, the reverse very easy.

Could wrong oil and/or wrong filter cause damages?


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## JohnK

My CC is moving! 

I saw at a picture that I mounted the charge pump on the hydro-pump the wrong way (there are two possible ways).
The serviceman told me that would be no problem but somewhere in the internet I read thats important and you should mark it before dismantle.
So I mounted it the right way, reassembled my CC and it´s moving.

What I did wrong: for sure the wrong oil, perhaps the wrong filter, perhaps the wrong mounted charge pump and the gringing noise during the few meters movement till it stood still caused me to think in a wrong direction (damaged a gear or something like that).

Thanks for your help  and greetings from Austria Bye


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## Jim_WV

Glad you got it going John .


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