# knocking noise 65 Ford 3000



## Ryun Kasten (May 3, 2018)

So my 65 ford 3000 started making a knocking noise. Runs fine, no loss of power. Doesn’t appear to be anything lose. Any suggestions on what it could be?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Does the knocking increase with engine speed ( engine issue) or with tractor speed (axles or transmission issue for instance)? I had a knocking in mine, but it only happened while travelling. It was the transfer case half slipping out of gear.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Not enough info to give you even a guess.
To add to what pogobill said:
Where on the tractor is it knocking?
Engine? Transmission? Rear end?
Does it knock all the time or just while you're moving?
Rear wheels can knock if the center to rim bolts are loose or the lug nuts are loose but only while moving.
Front wheels too.
If it is the engine knocking is it in the top end or bottom end of the engine. Some folks call a rattle a knock and vice versa.
Gas or diesel?
Clutch in or out make a difference?
An engine rattle could be the hydraulic pump or a broken ring or a too wide ring groove.
A heavy knock might be a rod bearing or a wrist pin.
A heavier clunking could be a main bearing.
Does the oil idiot light work? If not, have you put an oil pressure gauge on it? Is there oil in the engine?
Is the tractor new to you? One you've had for years?
Take a chunk of broom handle and put it against your ear like a stethoscope. Plug your other ear.
Try to isolate the noise for us high/low, forward/rearward, low/high idle.
The more info you give us the better chance you'll have of getting good advice.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I tried that broom stick method. turns out it was the fan blades! Still can't find the broom stick, but that's ok, I can't hear any knocking anymore! Can't hear much of anything anymore! LOL
Only kidding, just be careful where you stick the probe to listen.


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## Ryun Kasten (May 3, 2018)

Guys thanks for the replies. Knocking noise to me seems to be coming from the engine. There is not an oil pressure gauge but I was check the oil before using the tractor as it does leak oil. The knocking gets louder as the RPM’s increase. Tractor doesn’t overheat and runs fine. I brushed hogged for six hours with the noise and no issues.

QUOTE="Ultradog, post: 272199, member: 1514"]Not enough info to give you even a guess.
To add to what pogobill said:
Where on the tractor is it knocking?
Engine? Transmission? Rear end?
Does it knock all the time or just while you're moving?
Rear wheels can knock if the center to rim bolts are loose or the lug nuts are loose but only while moving.
Front wheels too.
If it is the engine knocking is it in the top end or bottom end of the engine. Some folks call a rattle a knock and vice versa.
Gas or diesel?
Clutch in or out make a difference?
An engine rattle could be the hydraulic pump or a broken ring or a too wide ring groove.
A heavy knock might be a rod bearing or a wrist pin.
A heavier clunking could be a main bearing.
Does the oil idiot light work? If not, have you put an oil pressure gauge on it? Is there oil in the engine?
Is the tractor new to you? One you've had for years?
Take a chunk of broom handle and put it against your ear like a stethoscope. Plug your other ear.
Try to isolate the noise for us high/low, forward/rearward, low/high idle.
The more info you give us the better chance you'll have of getting good advice.[/QUOTE]


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

if the knocks gets faster when you rev the engine, most likely a big end bearing being hammered , next step , stuffed big end journal, which is probably now.
main bearing knocks are slower sounding and not as loud compared to the big end knock.
sump drop time for inspection.


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## JGPenfield (Mar 10, 2016)

Is your tractor Gas or diesel? In either case knocking can come from valves. Usually they knock when cold and get better as it heats up and metal expands. Have you adjusted the valves? These old tractors do require regular valve adjustments. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I'd say you need to stop running it.
I would at the very least drop the pan and do a push/pull on your rods. Look for any excess clearance in your rod bearings. It's not hard to do.
I would also pull the rod caps and inspect the bearings.
If all the rods looked good I think I would inspect/plastiguage the mains.
This is one of those "a stitch in time saves nine" kinda deals.
I don't know how many of these engines you've seen with a "window" in the side of the block but they are not pretty.
I would also hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I don't have a working idiot light on my 3000D but I did add an OP gauge.


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## arml (Jan 19, 2018)

I've operated a automotive machine shop for 45 years, lots of farm country here. I have seen many 3000 Fords in the shop for crankshaft regrinding. 
These were real work horses with a bunch of hours on them. I hope yours is not in that camp, easy and cheap fix on the crank but, a lot of work to get there.


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## Ryun Kasten (May 3, 2018)

arml said:


> I've operated a automotive machine shop for 45 years, lots of farm country here. I have seen many 3000 Fords in the shop for crankshaft regrinding.
> These were real work horses with a bunch of hours on them. I hope yours is not in that camp, easy and cheap fix on the crank but, a lot of work to get there.


Close to 4200 hours on her. Any idea what that cost? I got a guy lined up to fix her but not sure what it may cost me? Would I be better off selling for parts and getting a different one


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## arml (Jan 19, 2018)

Honestly, 4200 hours is not that much if it was well maintained.
Easy enough to drop the pan and, check the bearings. If you find 
that it has a lower end problem (crank removal)then you have to ask yourself....
can I do this? If not, well then the cost exceeds the value of the tractor if the repair is done by a shop. I hope a bearing replacement in place could be done by you, if not....well, what is it worth to you? 
I wish you good luck. Take care friend.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Maybe I missed it, but diesel or gasoline? Diesels knock when cold from cam ground pistons, then quiet down at operating temperature. Dirty fuel injectors in a diesel will also knock.

Is the noise tapping, or hammering? Tapping is most commonly a valve tappet, easily and inexpensively adjusted. Hammering that increases with engine speed is likely a rod bearing, a thump and knock when decelerating is most likely a main bearing.

The clutch release bearing can mimic a knock too. If the noise changes pitch or goes away with the clutch fully depressed, it may well be that bearing.

As far as a scrap or fix decision, I would fix if it is not cost prohibitive for you. The issue you will face is that trying to replace a Ford 3000 with something comparable in a new tractor is next to impossible if you are expecting the same capabilities, reliability and a long useful life. New tractors in that horsepower range are lightweight and do not have the usable torque for working. Finding another used Ford of the same or similar capabilities will be a crap shoot without professional evaluation.

If you have confidence in the mechanic you have lined up, pay them for an assessment of the problem before deciding on a course of action.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Some random thoughts:
As was asked, is it a gas or diesel?
How are you determining the hours. The Fords built from 65 to 75 had notoriously bad tachs and hour meters. I have seen literally a hundred Fords from that era and don't remember ever seeing one that the hour meter still worked. My guess is your hour meter does not work and the engine has more hours than shown.
As to fixing vs parting out, the old saying about the whole is greater than the sum of its parts usually applies.

Does the tractor have power steering? 8 sp/wLive PTO?
Those items sell well.
Different transmission? Manual steering? Not so much.
How are the tires and tin?
Those items will sell depending on how good they are.
As to rebuilding; if it is a diesel those engines MUST be bored and sleeved back to standard. A gasser can just be bored and oversized pistons used.
If you can pull the engine yourself and bring it to a machine shop it will likely cost $1600+ for a reman on the engine. That won't cover injector pump work or injectors if it's a diesel.
Add about $1000 if you can't pull the engine yourself and have to have that done.
If the engine does get remanufactured you really should consider a new or rebuilt clutch and front transmission seals while it's apart.
Depending on which transmission the clutch is another $200-$500.
So depending on engine and transmission type you could easily spend $4000 on it.
Depending on options - tin, tires, etc it's at best about a $4500 tractor. Probably more with a fresh engine and clutch
Parting thoughts:
As RCWells said, it would be expensive to find a modern tractor with the capability of a 3000. They are just great old machines that will do a Lot of useful work.
If you rebuilt it you would have a tractor that would work for you for 30 years. If you parted it out you might get $2000 out of it but again, that depends on how it is optioned.
If you sold it as is - with a known engine problem - you might get $1000-$1500 for it.
The numbers I've quoted you are educated, ball park guesses.
If I could see pictures or have a good description of the tractor - options, appearance, tires, etc i could tweak the numbers a little.


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## Ryun Kasten (May 3, 2018)

RC Wells said:


> Maybe I missed it, but diesel or gasoline? Diesels knock when cold from cam ground pistons, then quiet down at operating temperature. Dirty fuel injectors in a diesel will also knock.
> 
> Is the noise tapping, or hammering? Tapping is most commonly a valve tappet, easily and inexpensively adjusted. Hammering that increases with engine speed is likely a rod bearing, a thump and knock when decelerating is most likely a main bearing.
> 
> ...


Guys, thank you for the replies. It is a diesel tractor. I do have a quality mechanic that I am meeting this weekend to give me an idea on what the issue is and what it would cost to get fixed.


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