# JD 112 axle/hub question



## packrat (Oct 26, 2012)

I picked up a JD 112, from 1960 I believe with a 10hp Kohler. The last owner quit using it after the rear axles got too loose and wobbly. 
He bought two new axles and two new hubs from the dealer, along with new bearings and gaskets but never tackled the job. 

I got the new axles in, the trans is resealed and all is well but I notice that there's a good bit of play in the axle to hub area. Basically the splines are just loose. With the wheel on, the hub will rock about 1/8" at the outermost part of the tire. You don't notice it on the ground or driving it, just when its jacked up. 
The original axles had grooved real bad where the bearing sits, the bearings themselves were actually still OK but everything is new now anyhow. I was thinking about putting some locktite on the spines but figured if I ever had to get it apart again I'd just be making future hub removal nearly impossible. 

The hubs fit over the splines against a machined shoulder on the axle, there's a washer or two and a C clip that holds it all together. I tried shimming the axle a bit but its about as tight as I can get it without forcing the clip in place. The old axles seem tighter on the splines but their well rusted and all gummed up. I tried the old hubs on the new axles and its about the same. The old axles have a lot of spline area wear, and the new hubs are super loose on the old axles. 
Is it normal to have play in the hub to axle area?


----------



## Rattosh51 (Sep 10, 2008)

Don't think that play is normal for the 112, but not sure how to fix. Might have to consult the experts over at www.weekendfreedommachines.com


----------



## packrat (Oct 26, 2012)

The part that gets me is that both the axles and the hubs are brand new. They just fit very loosely. They're not much tighter than the original hubs and axles. 
The only improvement is that the axles themselves don't have all the up and down movement they had before. The old axles are grooved nearly 1/4" deep where the outer bearings were. 

Without another known good unit to compare to its hard to say what is normal or not.


----------



## Rattosh51 (Sep 10, 2008)

Yup, need someone who has done this type of thing before with a 112.
The 112 came out in 1966, here's a breakdown by S/N so you can see what year yours is from WFM. That's why I said to go over to their site, as there are more guys with the older machines there.

1966 2,551 -3,550 Tecumseh HH100 (10hp) 
1967 3,551 - 100,000 Tecumseh HH100 
1968 100,001 - 130,000 Tecumseh HH100 
1969 130,001 - 150,000 Tecumseh HH100 
1969 150,001 - 160,000 Kohler K241 (10hp) 
1970 160,001 - 180,000 Tecumseh HH100 
1970 180,001 - 185,000 Kohler K241 
1971 185,001 -225,000 Tecumseh HH100 (10hp) 
1971 225,001 - 250,000 Kohler K241 
1972 250,001 - 260,000 Kohler K301 (12hp) 
1973 260,001 - 300,000 Kohler K301 (12hp) 
1974 300,001 -


----------



## packrat (Oct 26, 2012)

Serial Number 154,181, so its a 1969 model
Its a sharp looking tractor, its just not complete yet. 
The last owner tore it apart, bought a new hood, new axles, new hubs, new tires, a complete decal set, and a bunch of other small parts but lost interest. It was sitting on a work table when I found it. The motor fired right up after supposedly sitting dormant for 10 years. The rear fender pan is painted, the hood is new, the side cover is painted but the frame is still original paint, as is the deck. 
I got it as part of a trade, I really wasn't looking for another tractor, at least not looking to add another brand to the list of machines in the yard here but it needed so little to make it nice again. 
My only issue with it is that it has no rear hitch and my only real use for it would be in the garden, if I could find a sleeve hitch for it, or at least some good pics of one that I could copy, it may be a keeper.

I will go over to WFM, I just haven't had the chance yet.


----------



## TRACTOR MAN (Dec 30, 2012)

If you get some good bolts and mount this on there and put one of these two in it it works great!!!


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I had that problem,on one,also,Packrat. I used some thin(.005") brass shim,and rolled it around the axle shaft.then slid the hubs on . It was a snug fit,but it made a world of difference. Make sure,if you do it,you grease the hub,so it goes on/off easier.


----------



## packrat (Oct 26, 2012)

I'm not sure if I'd even be able to get shim stock in there, besides these are splined axles. I'd opt for the locktite first. 
Without the wheels on it, you can't feel any play in the hubs, its only with the added leverage of the wheel you get the movement. 
I think I like drilling and tapping the hubs for set screws the best. 

I ran across a guy who has a rather extensive JD collection, in his collection he has a 1970 112 in mint original condition, he let me jack that one up and it too has play in the splines. 
At this point I'm thinking they were made that way. The one he's got was put into storage in his collection in 1974 after buying it as a damaged new unit from a dealer. 
I'll still add a set screw or maybe two to each hub. I just don't like that movement in there. 
I also removed the new JD packaged wheel bearings in favor of better quality Timken sealed bearings which fit the axle better. The JD bearings were a very loose fit over the axle and I could see some movement in the bearings too. The JD bearings also didn't have a true seal, they were more or less just shielded bearings with plastic shields.


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

The one I did had quite a lot of play in the hub,and the splines formed the creases in the shim stock. I didn't have the $ for new axles/hubs.
As for the bearings,..I agree. I've found much better-fitting aftermarket ones,and usually less expensive,as well.


----------



## packrat (Oct 26, 2012)

On mine, I think if I tried to use shim stock, it would just fold or tear, the hubs are actually a bit snug, they just wobble when the tire is on since you have so much more leverage. I went ahead and drilled the old hubs for set screws, I have the local hardware store getting me some long hardened set screws. I drilled them for 1/4x20 screws. I was going to just use grade 8 bolts with lock nuts but figured it would look better with flush set nylock set screws. I'll also counter drill the axle splines a bit where the screws will make contact so I don't chew up the splines. 
I also staggered third set screw to even out contact and to prevent wobble on the tightened screws. 

The play in the bearing to axle point has to be normal I guess, if the bearings were a press fit it would make removing the axle tubes nearly impossible. There is .0012" difference between the axle OD and bearing ID. Surprisingly that can be felt if you work the wheel back and forth but then again, this thing is a garden tractor not an Indy car, I suppose the original bearings and axles most likely had far more play that this has now. All in all even the hubs have less play than any new machine has with their keyed axles and lugless rims.


----------



## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I've seen some that were pretty snug,and others that you'd swear were worn out,even when new! I guess it depends on how much it saves the mfgr.,in machine work.
Something I could never understand,is why the mfgrs don't put some lube on the axles,during assembly.The dealers sure don't,either! I've had a couple of 2-yr-old units that the hub/wheels were rusted on!


----------



## packrat (Oct 26, 2012)

The old hubs are actually tighter than the new ones, but the new hubs have longer splines, but the new axles have shorter splines with a recessed area where the splines end early. Someone's better idea I suppose. If the new axles were splined like the old ones I'd bet the wobble would be so minor it wouldn't be noticable.
I even questioned whether they were correct at the local dealer but was told they were correct, just a newer design.

At 5 mph I don't suppose it matters much either way, but with the set screws at least I'll know nothing is moving or wearing that don't have to be.


----------

