# YM2210D POWER SHIFT NOT WORKING



## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

All hydraulic equipment works, PTO works but tractor won't move


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Just asking, does pto work with implement? Just wanting to make sure it is working with power. If so, are you confident you have your range shifter in gear and not in neutral or between? If yes on both accounts, then it could be in the power shift.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> Just asking, does pto work with implement? Just wanting to make sure it is working with power. If so, are you confident you have your range shifter in gear and not in neutral or between? If yes on both accounts, then it could be in the power shift.


I Don't have anything connected to the PTO but it does start and stop turning with the clutch, I have replaced fluid and cleaned filter I have tried different gears in the range shifter and can feel it engage. I am leaning towards power shifter but don't know anything about it. Tanks


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I Don't have anything connected to the PTO but it does start and stop turning with the clutch, I have replaced fluid and cleaned filter I have tried different gears in the range shifter and can feel it engage. I am leaning towards power shifter but don't know anything about it. Tanks


PowerShift basics 101. 






Yanmar's Powershift Transmission explanation.







www.hoyetractor.com


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> All hydraulic equipment works, PTO works but tractor won't move


I had one rare occurrence with the YM2610 not moving a few months after I got it. So, I loaded it up on the flat trailer and went back to Fredricks. Well, they started the machine, backed it off the trailers and all worked just fine. 

Summed up possibility, the bouncing along the interstate got the machine gears or clutch packs back into the right places. Since then, it's never happened again since that one time in 2014. 

You can download the parts manual from this site or the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group. Look at the suction line and ensure something didn't clog it during the fluid change. 

And during your fluid change did you only just J20C rated hydraulic fluid? Hy-gard or TF500A ? Or TSC Universal that says meets J20C or Farm & Fleet meets J20C with the green line saying for John Deere machines? Other brand fluids have different friction modifiers and different seal lube characteristics. The wrong fluid could cause seals to swell up and clog the system. 

The OE bottles of J20C 









The store brands that meet J20C and not compatible with.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

I used the JD20 Plus from Tractor Supply. This problem started before I changed the oil and cleaned the strainer. I was using the tractor at the time it quit moving. I read that there is a relief valve spring in the transmission that could have broken but I don't know where to access the valve. I also read about some power shift O-rings inside the transmission could be bad. I just don't know how to proceed for troubleshooting past the oil change and suction screen cleaning. Does this model have a relief valve and where is it located?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I Don't have anything connected to the PTO but it does start and stop turning with the clutch, I have replaced fluid and cleaned filter I have tried different gears in the range shifter and can feel it engage. I am leaning towards power shifter but don't know anything about it. Tanks


"If" the pto continues to turn when you have tractor in gear, clutch out, tractor not moving, then your clutch is not the problem. If pto stops when tractor is in gear, clutch out, tractor not moving, then your clutch is at fault.

Above all checks out then you need to start looking at this.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> "If" the pto continues to turn when you have tractor in gear, clutch out, tractor not moving, then your clutch is not the problem. If pto stops when tractor is in gear, clutch out, tractor not moving, then your clutch is at fault.
> 
> Above all checks out then you need to start looking at this.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

Winston in your description are you saying I have a full time PTO? I would assume it would stop the PTO when clutch was pressed down so if it does stop then I have a clutch problem?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

YANMARONNIE said:


> Winston in your description are you saying I have a full time PTO? I would assume it would stop the PTO when clutch was pressed down so if it does stop then I have a clutch problem?


 No, I am not to good with words. Clutch must be in raised position for pto to engage. Don't take any chances but you need to load the pto some in order to "know" whether it is running with any power.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> Winston in your description are you saying I have a full time PTO? I would assume it would stop the PTO when clutch was pressed down so if it does stop then I have a clutch problem?


I think I misread your comment but I will have the correct answer by tomorrow when I get back to the tractor and check for sure if it is truly turning. Thanks for your help and hope we can converse again tomorrow.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

winston said:


> No, I am not to good with words. Clutch must be in raised position for pto to engage. Don't take any chances but you need to load the pto some in order to "know" whether it is running with any power.


Winston, I found the pages in that manual on the PowerShift trouble shoot. There are 3 pages in all. Had to use PDFill to extract the images in a readable resolution. Save them for future use too. 

Right-click and open in new browser tab. In the new tab, you can save the image in full high resolution. That's how these new forums work now.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> Winston, I found the pages in that manual on the PowerShift trouble shoot. There are 3 pages in all. Had to use PDFill to extract the images in a readable resolution. Save them for future use too.
> 
> Right-click and open in new browser tab. In the new tab, you can save the image in full high resolution. That's how these new forums work now.
> 
> ...


Thanks so much and I hope I have luck tomorrow after checking a few things, Thanks to both for taking the time to respond.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I think I misread your comment but I will have the correct answer by tomorrow when I get back to the tractor and check for sure if it is truly turning. Thanks for your help and hope we can converse again tomorrow.


I checked the PTO with load and it works when I raise the clutch pedal and disengages when it is depressed. All implement attachments work fine but tractor still wont move. I can't find the relief valve to check the spring I have read that it is by the inside of right foot but don't see it.When I open the hydraulic fill cap it doesn't seem to have as much flow as in the past. Thanks


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I checked the PTO with load and it works when I raise the clutch pedal and disengages when it is depressed. All implement attachments work fine but tractor still wont move. I can't find the relief valve to check the spring I have read that it is by the inside of right foot but don't see it.When I open the hydraulic fill cap it doesn't seem to have as much flow as in the past. Thanks


A drawing of your relief valve springs.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> A drawing of your relief valve springs.


 I would assume I need to remove and check all the springs or is there 1 in particular to look at first?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

I would assume I need to remove and check all the springs or is there 1 in particular to look at first


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Springs 9 and 15 are in the same opening. Those are the controlling springs. Also be looking for trash in there.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I would assume I need to remove and check all the springs or is there 1 in particular to look at first





winston said:


> Springs 9 and 15 are in the same opening. Those are the controlling springs. Also be looking for trash in there.





winston said:


> Springs 9 and 15 are in the same opening. Those are the controlling springs. Also be looking for trash in there.


I will pull them tomorrow if the heat lets up here in Mississippi Thanks very much


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Yours is very similar to this. Something to ponder on. (61) Slipping clutch or Powershift Yanmar 226d - Page 2 - Yanmar Tractor Support Message Board (ymowners.com)


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> Yours is very similar to this. Something to ponder on. (61) Slipping clutch or Powershift Yanmar 226d - Page 2 - Yanmar Tractor Support Message Board (ymowners.com)


Thanks Winston this is just the info I have been trying to research Your the best


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## willy81 (Jan 30, 2020)

As the YM2210 being a Gray Market tractor, there is no service manual for it found anywhere. Now, as a 'guide' to help you repair the YM2210, a sister configured engine is the John Deere JD650 with the 2T80 Yanmar engine. Using the TM1242 Service Manual for the 2T80 engine and the YM2210 Parts Manual for the 2T90 engine,

willy


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> Yours is very similar to this. Something to ponder on. (61) Slipping clutch or Powershift Yanmar 226d - Page 2 - Yanmar Tractor Support Message Board (ymowners.com)


Ordered parts and service manual today, I would like to read the hydraulic pressure before I go into the hydraulics. do I need to rethread the pressure port from 10mm to 1/8" pipe thread to attach gauge and what pressure should I read at both points on the power shift plate


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

I am not going to advise you on rethreading. Pressure on the two ports for the 222 will be shown in your manual. Might or might not be the same for your 2210. Lube pressure on 222 is to be 5.4 to 6.5 psi, power shift pressure 213 to 227 psi.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

Thanks for the info I am learning more every day about my little tractor from your experience and I appreciate it very much.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> I am not going to advise you on rethreading. Pressure on the two ports for the 222 will be shown in your manual. Might or might not be the same for your 2210. Lube pressure on 222 is to be 5.4 to 6.5 psi, power shift pressure 213 to 227 psi.


I checked the power shift pressure and it has 0PSI what does that mean?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I checked the power shift pressure and it has 0PSI what does that mean?


Sorry, I'm not understanding. Pressure on a gauge should read in numerical measurements. Where are you seeing OPSI?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> Sorry, I'm not understanding. Pressure on a gauge should read in numerical measurements. Where are you seeing OPSI?


I have attached a pressure gauge to the rear port on the regulator plate Power Shift pressure port and I am not getting any reading on the gauge I was hoping to read 213-227 PSI


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

I fabricated an adapter M10-100x 1/8" pipe thread and connected a gauge, Installed it in the Power Shift pressure port and didn't read anything on the gauge, was looking for 213-277 PSI. I guess I need to ask is their a proper hydraulic pressure test before I remove the Power Shift regulator plate to gain access to the relief valves. I can't seem to find this procedure.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

I would check for trash and broken springs on these relief valves next.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> A drawing of your relief valve springs.


I am removing the hydraulic valve plate and don't know whether to remove bolt #23 or nut #41 so valve plate can be separated and removed from its position to be taken apart to check relief valves


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I am removing the hydraulic valve plate and don't know whether to remove bolt #23 or nut #41 so valve plate can be separated and removed from its position to be taken apart to check relief valves


41 looks to be above where the rest of the parts are sitting. 23 is below. Yet, I'm not one to really say as not seeing the machine personally.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> 41 looks to be above where the rest of the parts are sitting. 23 is below. Yet, I'm not one to really say as not seeing the machine personally.


1 or the other has to be removed it looks like either one will let the plate come off just not sure which one 23 is on the bottom side going thru the case and if I remove it will I be able to reconnect on reassebly


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

No help from me, I think you will have to determine on sight.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> No help from me, I think you will have to determine on sight.


Thanks


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> 1 or the other has to be removed it looks like either one will let the plate come off just not sure which one 23 is on the bottom side going thru the case and if I remove it will I be able to reconnect on reassebly


Thanks


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I am removing the hydraulic valve plate and don't know whether to remove bolt #23 or nut #41 so valve plate can be separated and removed from its position to be taken apart to check relief valves


I took the hydraulic valve plate apart and found all springs good and length correct I did find a washer with a fine screen with a hole i9n it but can't find the part# yet. Don't know where to go from here, The service manual doesn't really give a lot of information, Do I need to leave this plate off to move forward for repairs or install it permantely


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I took the hydraulic valve plate apart and found all springs good and length correct I did find a washer with a fine screen with a hole i9n it but can't find the part# yet. Don't know where to go from here, The service manual doesn't really give a lot of information, Do I need to leave this plate off to move forward for repairs or install it permantely


There are two published YM2210 Parts Manuals. Do you have both? 
Compliments of the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group on GroupsIO. Link below in my signature.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> There are two published YM2210 Parts Manuals. Do you have both?
> Compliments of the Yanmar Tractor Owners Group on GroupsIO. Link below in my signature.


I don't have the second one so thanks very much. I will look through it and see if I see my part. What will the next step be


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I don't have the second one so thanks very much. I will look through it and see if I see my part. What will the next step be


Winston sent an exploded view above of page 39 that I can't find any parts in either book


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> Winston sent an exploded view above of page 39 that I can't find any parts in either book


He may of pulled that Section 39 from a similar machine.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> He may of pulled that Section 39 from a similar machine.


I just don't have part numbers for the parts listed on this diagram


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> No help from me, I think you will have to determine on sight.


I have checked on the relief valves and no broken springs or trash. Should I reassemble and reinstall before I move forward on what the next step will be. The parts diagram you listed is the correct sketch of what I have but there is a small washer with a busted screen but I don't have any part numbers. What is my next step?


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> The parts diagram you listed is the correct sketch of what I have* but there is a small washer with a busted screen but I don't have any part numbers. What is my next step?*


Does it look like a faucet washer screen then?










Here are some hydraulic line screen strainers. They are used in the system to break up the cold fluid at cold temps.

I think these go on Iseki tractors.









Yanmar and other Japan machines use these in Excavators too. 

Automatic Reducing Valve Filter Screen Disc|Excavator Filters (hifilters.com) 










The key for your Yanmar is to know the diameter of the washer and the density scree sieve mesh. Then it's off to a hydraulic shop or plumbing shop.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> Does it look like a faucet washer screen then?
> 
> View attachment 81340
> 
> ...


Thank that is it. What do I check next to make tractor move?


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> Thank that is it. What do I check next to make tractor move?


Give it a push? 

I'm not even close to a hydraulic guru. It should be simple as its fluid in hoses, pipes and junctions right?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

This is the part number for reference #19, which I believe is the part you are looking for. 194310-24680


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

winston said:


> This is the part number for reference #19, which I believe is the part you are looking for. 194310-24680


It's found on the TOAD and no where else. Price it not too bad considering availability. 

Yanmar 194310-24680 Sailboat Supplies, Engine Parts and Boat Parts (toadmarinesupply.com)


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> It's found on the TOAD and no where else. Price it not too bad considering availability.
> 
> Yanmar 194310-24680 Sailboat Supplies, Engine Parts and Boat Parts (toadmarinesupply.com)


Thanks Winston what is my next step to repair my tractor? any suggestions


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

The reference page and part number I gave you for the little washer/screen is straight out of the 2210 hard copy manual. If you have 0# pressure when doing the pressure test and you are satisfied there is no problem in







the relief valve area then it would make sense the power shift pump must not be putting out. Being honest, I don't want to give much advice on your next move. #27 shown here is the suction pipe that feeds the power shift pump. It is possible but I would say not likely it is clogged/broken/or loose. Power shift pump could be bad. I conclude saying don't rely on anything I am speaking of. I have never been in one of these power shifts. Years of mechanic work, following forums, and listening just help me form undocumented theories.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

winston said:


> The reference page and part number I gave you for the little washer/screen is straight out of the 2210 hard copy manual. If you have 0# pressure when doing the pressure test and you are satisfied there is no problem in
> View attachment 81450
> the relief valve area then it would make sense the power shift pump must not be putting out. Being honest, I don't want to give much advice on your next move. #27 shown here is the suction pipe that feeds the power shift pump. It is possible but I would say not likely it is clogged/broken/or loose. Power shift pump could be bad. I conclude saying don't rely on anything I am speaking of. I have never been in one of these power shifts. Years of mechanic work, following forums, and listening just help me form undocumented theories.


Winston, If you recall, I had issues mid-summer with the suction line rubber hose jumper. If the clamps allow air in, things would not work well. Is this the same pipe in his setup then? 

Here's my thread on TBN, 
(3) Hydraulic Suction line - where did the fluid all go - oh no! - TractorByNet 

If you notice, I don't comment on the over-my-head hydraulic questions either. I know what fluids work. 

As you pointed out in times past, the hydraulic pump has seals and such around the two rotating spline gears. Wonder if there are leaks or a seal/gasket getting stuck? So the PS could have a similar setup?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

The pipe shown in the drawing ins an internal line feeding only the power shift pump, not external hydraulics. I'm at a loss for recommendations. l


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> The reference page and part number I gave you for the little washer/screen is straight out of the 2210 hard copy manual. If you have 0# pressure when doing the pressure test and you are satisfied there is no problem in
> View attachment 81450
> the relief valve area then it would make sense the power shift pump must not be putting out. Being honest, I don't want to give much advice on your next move. #27 shown here is the suction pipe that feeds the power shift pump. It is possible but I would say not likely it is clogged/broken/or loose. Power shift pump could be bad. I conclude saying don't rely on anything I am speaking of. I have never been in one of these power shifts. Years of mechanic work, following forums, and listening just help me form undocumented theories.


Thanks for your input. I am waiting on the screen to come in and will have everything needed in the hydraulic shifter plate and ready to reinstall.I will then check my pressure. I am not sure where the pump may be and what sequence to access it. The service manual I have doesn't have any step by step instructions on how to remove anything.Just asking .


bmaverick said:


> Winston, If you recall, I had issues mid-summer with the suction line rubber hose jumper. If the clamps allow air in, things would not work well. Is this the same pipe in his setup then?
> 
> Here's my thread on TBN,
> (3) Hydraulic Suction line - where did the fluid all go - oh no! - TractorByNet
> ...





bmaverick said:


> Winston, If you recall, I had issues mid-summer with the suction line rubber hose jumper. If the clamps allow air in, things would not work well. Is this the same pipe in his setup then?
> 
> Here's my thread on TBN,
> (3) Hydraulic Suction line - where did the fluid all go - oh no! - TractorByNet
> ...


Thanks I will check it out my tractor is not at my house but will check it out this afternoon. It would be nice if this were the problem.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

When you get it back together and do a pressure check let us know what readings you get. make sure you follow pressure checking instructions in manual as best you can. What manual do you have?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> When you get it back together and do a pressure check let us know what readings you get. make sure you follow pressure checking instructions in manual as best you can. What manual do you have?


 I purchased the Service Manual from Hoye Tractor. I have seen a lot better manuals on service vehicles and such with a lot better info


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

What tractors does your manual cover?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> What tractors does your manual cover?


It was compiled from tractors like mine YM2210d but somewhat different on a lot of the descriptions. I don't see anything on checking pressure procedures. I just received a reply from the marine supply that my mesh washer has been discontinued, Trying to locate another source so I haven't reinstalled the valve plate assembly,


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I just received a reply from the marine supply that my mesh washer has been discontinued, Trying to locate another source so I haven't reinstalled the valve plate assembly,


The tractor is made to JIS standards. JIS solely uses Metric. Thus, the mesh washer needs to be stainless and have a metric outer diameter (OD). Do you know the size? The OD and the ID just of the washer. Then compare it to plumbing supply versions. 

Examples


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> The tractor is made to JIS standards. JIS solely uses Metric. Thus, the mesh washer needs to be stainless and have a metric outer diameter (OD). Do you know the size? The OD and the ID just of the washer. Then compare it to plumbing supply versions.
> 
> Examples
> View attachment 81665
> ...





bmaverick said:


> The tractor is made to JIS standards. JIS solely uses Metric. Thus, the mesh washer needs to be stainless and have a metric outer diameter (OD). Do you know the size? The OD and the ID just of the washer. Then compare it to plumbing supply versions.
> 
> Examples
> View attachment 81665
> ...


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

My biggest problem is I no longer have the screen. the hydraulic shop lost it and I have know idea what the mesh size was. I can measure the dimensions.Can't find what I need anywhere as of today


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> My biggest problem is I no longer have the screen. the hydraulic shop lost it and I have know idea what the mesh size was. I can measure the dimensions.Can't find what I need anywhere as of today


WOW. Soooo, are they going to re-reimburse you then for the missing part?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I don't have the second one so thanks very much. I will look through it and see if I see my part. What will the next step be


I got my relief valve plate all cleaned up and the screen replaced. I started the tractor before reinstalling the plate and I don't have any hydraulic fluid feeding any opening from the sump. I have located the rubber hose underneath and am going to replace it. What can I check next before I put the plate back on.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

I don't know just what you can see with the plate off. Guessing very little. No fluid now, wow. Wondering if splined drive coupling to power shift pump shown in this drawing could be bad? Also wondering about suction pipe shown in drawing I posted in post #50.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> I don't know just what you can see with the plate off. Guessing very little. No fluid now, wow. Wondering if splined drive coupling to power shift pump shown in this drawing could be bad? Also wondering about suction pipe shown in drawing I posted in post #50.
> View attachment 81803





winston said:


> I don't know just what you can see with the plate off. Guessing very little. No fluid now, wow. Wondering if splined drive coupling to power shift pump shown in this drawing could be bad? Also wondering about suction pipe shown in drawing I posted in post #50.
> View attachment 81803


Winston I found the rubber tube connecting the suction pipe and I assume it is there to split the tractor and am removing it today. The end of the suction pipe is attached to the oil sump with a housing and 3 bolts, is there a filter or screen in this area? Also how do I access the Power Shift Pump? I don't have any info on how to check the spline or the pump. I assume it is internal toward the front of the motor but that is all I can figure out at this time.Thanks


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> Winston I found the rubber tube connecting the suction pipe and I assume it is there to split the tractor and am removing it today. The end of the suction pipe is attached to the oil sump with a housing and 3 bolts, is there a filter or screen in this area? Also how do I access the Power Shift Pump? I don't have any info on how to check the spline or the pump. I assume it is internal toward the front of the motor but that is all I can figure out at this time. Thanks


My rubber tube connecting the two pipe halves leaked all of my fluid out earlier this summer. If you need to replace that pipe, Buta-N or Neoprene is hydraulic fluid compatible. Don't use any other type as the others will break-down in short time. 

I only noticed this as the 3PT operated super slowly and the little puddle under the YM2610 in the shed dirt was visible. It lost over 10qts ! 

See my posting here on that topic. 
Hydraulic Suction line - where did the fluid all go - oh no! - TractorByNet


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

See post #50, reference number 26 for your filter screen location. Also, #27 is the suction line going to your power shift pump. 
I don't want to give much advice on how to access your power shift pump. Pretty sure a tractor split starting at the motor/clutch housing would be the first place. Please don't proceed with that on my advice. The power shift pump might be the problem and then again it may not be,


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> My rubber tube connecting the two pipe halves leaked all of my fluid out earlier this summer. If you need to replace that pipe, Buta-N or Neoprene is hydraulic fluid compatible. Don't use any other type as the others will break-down in short time.
> 
> I only noticed this as the 3PT operated super slowly and the little puddle under the YM2610 in the shed dirt was visible. It lost over 10qts !
> 
> ...


Can you verify if their is a screen or filter where the suction tube connects to the sump? There are 3 10MM bolts to remove the tube from the sump but I am not sure if I need to remove them to check. Kinda worried if these bolts will access a screen or something different.


winston said:


> See post #50, reference number 26 for your filter screen location. Also, #27 is the suction line going to your power shift pump.
> I don't want to give much advice on how to access your power shift pump. Pretty sure a tractor split starting at the motor/clutch housing would be the first place. Please don't proceed with that on my advice. The power shift pump might be the problem and then again it may not be,


I have cleaned #26 filter. The end of the suction tube #27 I have doesn't look anything like that, mine has a 90* bend in it and connected to the sump with 3 bolts. Once I replace the rubber hose and clamps, fill with fluid, I am going to start the tractor and see if I get any fluid to my relief valve plate. I just hate putting all the fluid bac
k in until I have checked everything external before proceeding. Thanks


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

No screen where your main suction line connects to the sump. Your screen is shown as I last posted.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

#27 is an internal suction line going to the power shift pump. You cannot see it externally.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> No screen where your main suction line connects to the sump. Your screen is shown as I last posted.


thanks then I am going to proceed and see if I get any fluid to my relief valve plate


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> #27 is an internal suction line going to the power shift pump. You cannot see it externally.


OK I was looking at a thread where someone had pictures of the return pipe with the rubber hose connected the 2 pieces together with a rubber hose and 2 clamps I thought we were talking about the same suction line. I said return line but I meant suction pipe> Look at the attachment on post # 51 and you can see the piece I am referring to


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Yes, I understand which hose you were talking about, but I think it irrelevant to your problem.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> Yes, I understand which hose you were talking about, but I think it irrelevant to your problem.


Is it not the line feeding the inlet side of the Power Shift Hydraulic pump or am I not understanding the system? I thought if this rubber connection could be letting the hydraulic pump cavitate and maybe not prime to start the flow.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Your power shift pump is fed internally through #27. The external line with the rubber hose feeds the main hydraulic pump which powers the 3 point and loader if you have one. Nothing to do with powershift.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> Your power shift pump is fed internally through #27. The external line with the rubber hose feeds the main hydraulic pump which powers the 3 point and loader if you have one. Nothing to do with powershift.


Thanks again. I just can't find the necessary info I need but am going to reassemble everything I have and give it a try. I only have one other question when I reassemble the valve body in the lower left side under the square cover is an adjusting nut and underneath is a lever #22 on post# 30 I removed that assembly and when I put the screw #23 back in I see the lever slides on top of the rod coming from the transmission and it would make since this lever should go in front of this rod for it to do anything. Can you give me any insite into this?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

I'll give you another picture to look at. I'm in the dark here. Where do you reside?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> I'll give you another picture to look at. I'm in the dark here. Where do you reside?
> View attachment 82087


 this is not the area, I haven't dissembled any of this. I will try and get a photo of the area tomorrow. I am in Vicksburg, Ms.I know Vintage VWs and work on them regularly But this is my first tractor in my 70 years. It has been working flawlessly for 6-7 years that I have owned it, serviced and dependable until now. I will check and be sure this is connected correctly when I install the valve plate but the item # 22 in the previous diagram doesn't seem to be connected to anything so why the adjustment with a tab to lock the screw into place after adjusting? where you located?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

❮
❯




















these first 2 are the same just different views the 3rd is the valve block with the fork that connects here but I don't understand what it does inside once the fork in the valve plate moves. What is it moving down below it looks like the way I have it installed it is just riding on top of the rod and not moving the rod at all


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> ❮
> ❯
> 
> 
> ...


I don't have a clue how the 2 pics with the beaver and the other came from,,,sorry


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I don't have a clue how the 2 pics with the beaver and the other came from,,,sorry


Could be a glitch with the forum. The Beaver-3 is a Mitsubishi-Satoh tractor. 

From your images, where are they taken from? Underside of the tractor?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> Could be a glitch with the forum. The Beaver-3 is a Mitsubishi-Satoh tractor.
> 
> From your images, where are they taken from? Underside of the tractor?


 that is with the power shift relief valve assembly removed with the first 2 pics are on top of the sump under your feet and the shiny piece is the relief valve plate turned upside down showing the fork that moves the little lever on top of the transmission . Its where the 4 bolts are that removes the square cover on top of the relief valve cover I assume to make an adjustment. I haven't moved the nut or made any adjustment I just removed the side screw not knowing that I could have left it there when I removed the relief valve assembly. But I don't see where the fork is doing anything but sliding on the top of the rod under it and not pushing the rod back. I don't know how to get it in front of the rod to make it do anything.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

I am in Northeast Texas, Longview area. Wish we were closer, I would love to put my hands on it. However, I am at a loss for any worthwhile advice. Just looking at the book picture and your picture it would look to me like you have it in upside down. I'm sure that isn't the case, just what it looks like to an old man.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> I am in Northeast Texas, Longview area. Wish we were closer, I would love to put my hands on it. However, I am at a loss for any worthwhile advice. Just looking at the book picture and your picture it would look to me like you have it in upside down. I'm sure that isn't the case, just what it looks like to an old man.


Have split the tractor and all splines and couplers look good. I don't see any wear in the hydraulic pump but haven't done any measuring with mics yet. I don't see any way to check the pump. I see in the diagrams there are some o rings and a spring in the oil manifold. Do I need to take it apart and check all items in it?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

I don't guess there would be anyway to turn the pump with a drill to assure it is putting out?

I don't know what spring or o-rings you are talking about in the oil manifold.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> I don't guess there would be anyway to turn the pump with a drill to assure it is putting out?


 I will try and see if that is possible once I check all the specs and reassemble. Thanks


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

I have removed and replaced a bearing with a small amount of wear to it. checked all the specs are within tolerance. checked the oil manifold and found no problems. I am trying to remove the center plate to access the pickup tube but don't have any known steps to remove the plate to check the orings on the pickup tube. Any ideas?


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

I am at a loss in trying to advise. Please continue to keep us updated though, I am sure curious what is wrong with your power shift.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> I am at a loss in trying to advise. Please continue to keep us updated though, I am sure curious what is wrong with your power shift.


Thanks .I just don't have any teardown info only pics after the plate is removed showing what comes out with the plate, I don't see any bolts to remove and have tried a hammer and or chisel to no avail.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I have removed and replaced a bearing with a small amount of wear to it. checked all the specs are within tolerance. checked the oil manifold and found no problems. I am trying to remove the center plate to access the pickup tube but don't have any known steps to remove the plate to check the orings on the pickup tube. Any ideas?


 The bearing was one of the power shift hydraulic pump bearing


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

YANMARONNIE said:


> Thanks .I just don't have any tear-down info only pics after the plate is removed showing what comes out with the plate, I don't see any bolts to remove and have tried a hammer and or chisel to no avail.


Got a pix of that? I'm just on the sidelines reading along. 

Just where in the Parts Manual are you at? Section or page?


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> Got a pix of that? I'm just on the sidelines reading along.
> 
> Just where in the Parts Manual are you at? Section or page?


I don't see a breakdown in the parts manual I have. In the service manual under Power Shift Transmission, Installation,Power Shaft Assembly 50-10-54 #3 shows it going back in but not anything on removing. Hope that helps and I am still trying to find something in the parts manual


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

YANMARONNIE said:


> I don't see a breakdown in the parts manual I have. In the service manual under Power Shift Transmission, Installation,Power Shaft Assembly 50-10-54 #3 shows it going back in but not anything on removing. Hope that helps and I am still trying to find something in the parts manual


page 14 part#38 is the center block I am trying to remove to access the suction tube behind it.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Probably no help at all but will attach some pages out of the 226 repair manual. Images are horrible but came that way. This is a reproduction from Hoye.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

winston said:


> Probably no help at all but will attach some pages out of the 226 repair manual. Images are horrible but came that way. This is a reproduction from Hoye.
> View attachment 82917
> View attachment 82918
> View attachment 82919
> View attachment 82920


Thanks Winston this clears up a lot for me. I didn't realize to proceed that I needed to remove the transmission to access the suction tube. I am at the point where I feel I need to check my pump and see if I have output to verify pump operation before proceeding. Your assistance has been invaluable and thanks again. Will keep you updated.


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## YANMARONNIE (8 mo ago)

Thanks Winston this clears up a lot for me. I didn't realize to proceed that I needed to remove the transmission to access the suction tube. I am at the point where I feel I need to check my pump and see if I have output to verify pump operation before proceeding. Your assistance has been invaluable and thanks again. Will keep you updated.


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