# Replacing Hydraulic Steering seals on Case 580k 4WD



## rdavison39 (Nov 16, 2021)

Hi there - I am trying to repair some leaking seals on the hydraulic steering on a 1990 Case 580k 4WD. I've been able to remove the tie rods and remove the 3 large Hex Bolts holding the gland to the steering housing but I can't get the housing to separate...and thus can't get the rod out. I've given a few good wacks to the housing but nothing. There isn't a ton of room to swing anything too big and i don't want to damage the rod that is in the casing. I've attached picture but if anyone has any advice on how to remove the rods I'm all ears. I have the huge service manual but no where in it can i find an exploded diagram of the power steering unit or how to disassemble. Thx in advance for any help. Ron


----------



## rdavison39 (Nov 16, 2021)

rdavison39 said:


> Hi there - I am trying to repair some leaking seals on the hydraulic steering on a 1990 Case 580k 4WD. I've been able to remove the tie rods and remove the 3 large Hex Bolts holding the gland to the steering housing but I can't get the housing to separate...and thus can't get the rod out. I've given a few good wacks to the housing but nothing. There isn't a ton of room to swing anything too big and i don't want to damage the rod that is in the casing. I've attached picture but if anyone has any advice on how to remove the rods I'm all ears. I have the huge service manual but no where in it can i find an exploded diagram of the power steering unit or how to disassemble. Thx in advance for any help. Ron
> 
> View attachment 75754


 And I guess as a follow on question - once it is separated do the rods just come out. Does anyone have an exploded parts diagram (4WD) of how this steering unit is put together ?


----------



## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Schematic, Manuals, Specifications and Diagrams for Front drive axle, steering cylinder | Case CE | MyCNHi US Store


Find schematics, manuals, specifications and diagrams for FRONT DRIVE AXLE, STEERING CYLINDER. Find genuine OEM parts for your needs.




www.mycnhistore.com





Maybe this will help. Provided this page matches your tractor serial number range. Unless I'm looking at it wrong, your photo is of the left side flange, and what I"m seeing in the diagram that flange is part of the cylinder barrel. Most likely hasn't moved in years and probably would be pretty stubborn. The flange on the right should the cylinder head, and should come off a bit easier. It has to come off before the piston.rod unit will come out. There should only be one rod with the piston in the center. If there is room to do so I would pull that out, deal with what's needed and leave the barrel in the machine. I'm guessing you can replace the shaft seals on that end from the outside if you're careful once the shaft is out.


----------



## rdavison39 (Nov 16, 2021)

Thanks @Fedup. Yes, the photo above is on the left side. Right side flange ("passenger") photo is below. From what i can gather, now that the 3 large 10mm hex bolts have been removed, i have to dislodge the flange on the left side (probably with a 2x4 and a 10lb hammer), remove the tie-rods from the steering rod so i can pull the rod out of one end (pulling from the drivers side) and then once out of the cylinder, slide the left hand gland/flange (that was held on with the 3 large hex bolts) off the rod once it has been pulled out. The flange on the passenger side has much smaller hex bolts so yes hopefully easier to jar free. In my head, i'm not quite sure what the internals of this steering rod/cylinder look like and exactly what seals i need to replace - i can't find an exploded parts diagram even though i have the huge 1300 page service manual.

I also understand that the hardest part of the job is unscrewing the chrome steering rod from the tie rod - if you have any tips or experience I'm all ears....


----------



## rdavison39 (Nov 16, 2021)

@Fedup - sorry , didn't see your URL to the exploded parts diagram - thought it was advertisement! Thx, this helps


----------



## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

The ball joints aren't that bad. Most people panic trying to find a thin wrench to fit between the ball joint and the end of the shaft. That doesn't always work out well. What I do is use a pipe wrench on BOTH ball joints and break loose whichever comes first. once one has backed off some, a standard wrench can be used on the exposed shaft.


----------



## rdavison39 (Nov 16, 2021)

Thanks @Fedup Ah.....good idea. So two pipe wrenches on both ball joints. So that will get one end of the rod free from whatever joint cracks first. But for the other rod/ball joint remaining how do you get that off ? Won't you still need to get a thin wrench to separate the ball joint from the chrome rod ?


----------



## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

rdavison39 said:


> Thanks @Fedup Ah.....good idea. So two pipe wrenches on both ball joints. So that will get one end of the rod free from whatever joint cracks first. But for the other rod/ball joint remaining how do you get that off ? Won't you still need to get a thin wrench to separate the ball joint from the chrome rod ?


No because once one side comes off, then the exposed flats on that end can be held with whatever thickness wrench you have, and the other joint gets the pipe wrench. If needed you can also grind the flats a bit wider, once you determine how much rod is exposed when it's all the way in. In most cases the end of the rod never reaches the wiper seal when at the end of the stroke.


----------



## rdavison39 (Nov 16, 2021)

Ah - got it. Makes sense. Thanks for your reply - much appreciated!


----------

