# Yanmar oil filter - the quest



## bmaverick

Did that get your attention? I hope so. 

Using the https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com site, one can poke around and learn what brand numbers fit and using Rockauto, you can get the filter height and diameter, thread size AND the filter micro rating. 

So, the Yanmar's most popular filters are the 124450-35110 or 124450-35100 or 124085-35111 (all same thing). This equals the John Deere popular filter of M801002. With the cross reference, one can find the Fram or Wix p/n in a snap. Then using Rockauto, getting the size and micro level filtration. NOTE: these are not the only Yanmar filters. Do the research for yours if different.

Per the detective work, I've found Fram PH6811EG (Extra Guard) (read later posting, this is a bad filter) to be a little taller (2-inches) than the original Yanmar/JD filter. My hood still closes too (important). So, it should be fine for more capacity. 

As for Fram, I would NEVER trust their regular run of the mill filters. Their EG and TG are better built and are nearly like the performance of WIX, but 3X less cost of WIX on the Rockauto site.

Edited to say, PH6811 is bad for the application of the tractor! Read later posting on findings and solution.


----------



## marc_hanna

Good info. I’ve found the Wix filters tend to have finer micron filtration, about twice as fine as Donaldson for example, and they also have a higher bypass pressure. This makes sense, because it takes more pressure to push the oil through finer mesh. In then end you get better filtration, but it also means you would likely need to change the filter more frequently because once the pressure upstream of the filter is greater than the bypass, you no longer have any filtration at all. 

. . . just some food for thought.


----------



## bmaverick

marc_hanna said:


> Good info. I’ve found the Wix filters tend to have finer micron filtration, about twice as fine as Donaldson for example, and they also have a higher bypass pressure. This makes sense, because it takes more pressure to push the oil through finer mesh. In then end you get better filtration, but it also means you would likely need to change the filter more frequently because once the pressure upstream of the filter is greater than the bypass, you no longer have any filtration at all.
> 
> . . . just some food for thought.


20-microns is the minimum to be at for oil filtration. The better Fram and others range from 25- to 30-microns. 

Synthetic oils work better for the finer microns. Or for the dino, the 5W is alright. 10W and such need the higher micron numbers. 

As winter and harsh cold temps arrive soon, doing an oil change isn't as easy anymore without have the in-depth knowledge of what oil and filter to use. I went from Nashville to South-WI. It's like night and day. Had to work this thing thru. 

How are the winters in NS? They are hard in the Mid-West here.


----------



## marc_hanna

The W rating is only relavent for your low winter temps. If you don’t get below freezing in the winter, there’s not much point in going below and 15W40. I use a 5W40 and it works great for -30 Celsius temps where I live. 0W40 is for arctic temps. 

In below freezing temps, you’re biggest challenge will not be viscosity, it will be the cold start, which is better help with a cetane improver and and block heater.


----------



## pogobill

Hello Marc! Glad to see you back!


----------



## bmaverick

marc_hanna said:


> The W rating is only relevant for your low winter temps. If you don’t get below freezing in the winter, there’s not much point in going below and 15W40. I use a 5W40 and it works great for -30 Celsius temps where I live. 0W40 is for arctic temps.
> 
> In below freezing temps, you’re biggest challenge will not be viscosity, it will be the cold start, which is better help with a cetane improver and and block heater.


It will be 5W30 on my end.


----------



## marc_hanna

Thanks. I’ve had a busy few months. Just opened a new store in town. 

I like the 40 weight oil because it provides a little more protection and a little less blow-by. I use the same Amsoil signature series across the board for my four diesels. It holds up really well, and the oil stays pretty clean.


----------



## Hoodoo Valley

What do you sell Marc?


----------



## marc_hanna

Men's clothing


----------



## bmaverick

marc_hanna said:


> Thanks. I’ve had a busy few months. Just opened a new store in town.
> 
> I like the 40 weight oil because it provides a little more protection and a little less blow-by.


I would do 40 weight too, but it will not go low enough in our temps out here. Don't want all that black soot diesel chugging out the exhaust in my face with the 40 weight while snow plowing in -25F (-32C). Makes me want a CAB.


----------



## marc_hanna

bmaverick said:


> I would do 40 weight too, but it will not go low enough in our temps out here. Don't want all that black soot diesel chugging out the exhaust in my face with the 40 weight while snow plowing in -25F (-32C). Makes me want a CAB.


Not quite sure I understand what you mean, but if cold flow viscosity is an issue, there are 0W40's out there, I just haven't found the need to go that low.


----------



## bmaverick

marc_hanna said:


> Not quite sure I understand what you mean, but if cold flow viscosity is an issue, there are 0W40's out there, I just haven't found the need to go that low.


My 1981 can't use the 0W-anything. That's too new of an oil and would have less zinc for engine protection. If my machine was a new type, it may. Diesel is so different than petrol tractors.

Yanmar tractors are basically John Deere CUT tractors. Same maker of their diesel engines. ... Yanmar.

So, per the US John Deere CUT oil chart for these Yanmar engines & tractors, JD shows the following ...

View attachment 49491


So, in my region, 5W30 offers the tractor the best range for it's use. I already changed the Hydraulic fluid over to J20C in the late summer. 

If my tractor was painted John Deere green, it would be a JD-850. I already tried a photoshop. Just couldn't get the front grill black. 










Here was my old JD850










Even the keys are cut the same.


----------



## winston

I find this interesting.


----------



## marc_hanna

Yup. Not much flow at -25 with 15W40.


----------



## bmaverick

winston said:


> I find this interesting.


Now, when you compare 5W30 in synthetic and dino versions, there is still a huge difference.

And, if you blend the 2 yourself of the syn & dino, the bottom engine will be protected during startup to warm up and so would the top end. 

DO NOT buy oil blends at the tore. WHY? Because they never give the ratio of the blend. For all you know, it could be a 5% syn to 95% dino !!! I've had the BEST results blending 50/50. 
Should the machine take 8qts, then it's easy, 4 & 4. Takes 5.5qts, then it's easy, 2.75 & 2.75.


----------



## bmaverick

Now, be aware, our tractors need the zinc in the motor oil. About 1,600 ppm per quart/liter. Most autoparts stores sell the additive. This is for both diesel and petrol. Oil quart already have about 750ppm, thus an additive bottle will last a long time thru 4 to 6 changes. 

It's hard to find synthetic 5W30 for older diesel vehicles let alone tractors without paying thru the nose. The additive corrects this imbalance. 

Here are some examples and articles on the topic. 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/r...r-oil-additive-engine-oil-additives-that-work 

https://www.amazon.com/ZDDPPlus-Engine-Additive-Phosphorus-Bottle/dp/B006LBAAD4

Consult what brands are sold in your area. Knowing this helps prevent early engine rebuilds/overhauls.


----------



## marc_hanna

I use Amsoil signature series 5W40. Chemical analysis shows exceptional protection well past 20,000kms on both conventional and common rail engines. It’s a full-syn and pours great at -30. If we had -40 where I live, I’d bump up to the 0W40, but by Amsoil’s own claims, it doesn’t protect as well as the 5W40, so no need to change for me.


----------



## bmaverick

marc_hanna said:


> I use Amsoil signature series 5W40. Chemical analysis shows exceptional protection well past 20,000kms on both conventional and common rail engines. It’s a full-syn and pours great at -30. If we had -40 where I live, I’d bump up to the 0W40, but by Amsoil’s own claims, it doesn’t protect as well as the 5W40, so no need to change for me.


How much per quart?? 

I'm getting 5W30 synthetic with DEXOS2 per quart for $3.39 and free shipping.


----------



## marc_hanna

About $8. It all depends on package size. I don’t skimp on oil. Maybe if I were operating a fleet I’d be a little more cost conscious, but currently its about absolute best protection.

My oldest diesel is my ‘01 Dodge Cummins, and I don’t think the cam lobes are that flat on it (someone may correct me), so I don’t think a high-zinc oil is necessary. I think I benefit more from the long-term stability because it only sees once-a-year oil changes.


----------



## bmaverick

marc_hanna said:


> About $8. It all depends on package size. I don’t skimp on oil. Maybe if I were operating a fleet I’d be a little more cost conscious, but currently its about absolute best protection.
> 
> My oldest diesel is my ‘01 Dodge Cummins, and I don’t think the cam lobes are that flat on it (someone may correct me), so I don’t think a high-zinc oil is necessary. I think I benefit more from the long-term stability because it only sees once-a-year oil changes.


Zinc is everything for older engines, especially tractors and industrial machinery. 2001 was the change over year for vehicles. Zinc was reduced by just slight over half in each quart. Read my link in the posting on zinc and be amazing how this small amount makes a huge difference in wear protection and oil life. 

I don't skimp on oil either. And for the best benefits, I change the oil at a minimum of 2X per year due to summer and winter seasonal changes. 3X if the mileage or hour meters show extra working time involved.


----------



## marc_hanna

A good read re zinc:

https://tech.drivenracingoil.com/zinc-in-motor-oil/


----------



## bmaverick

marc_hanna said:


> A good read re zinc:
> 
> https://tech.drivenracingoil.com/zinc-in-motor-oil/


Yes a good read should you own a typical automobile. Not a tractor. Especially a diesel.  

Do recall, this thread is for DIESEL and not gasoline tractor engines. A huge difference between the two and the oil requirements. 

Go back and look at the Yanmar oil chart.  One rating is for gasoline and the other side is diesel. The API rating is called out different between both of these. Gasoline is in the S_ of the chart. Diesel is in the C_ of the chart. That's the focus here. The latest API rating for gasoline is SN at the time of this posting. 

If my tractor was gasoline, I would not have to deal with the zinc issue so much. It would save me time and money.


----------



## bmaverick

bmaverick said:


> Did that get your attention? I hope so.
> 
> Using the https://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com site, one can poke around and learn what brand numbers fit and using Rockauto, you can get the filter height and diameter, thread size AND the filter micro rating.
> 
> So, the Yanmar's most popular filters are the 124450-35110 or 124450-35100 or 124085-35111 (all same thing). This equals the John Deere popular filter of M801002. With the cross reference, one can find the Fram or Wix p/n in a snap. Then using Rockauto, getting the size and micro level filtration. NOTE: these are not the only Yanmar filters. Do the research for yours if different.
> 
> Per the detective work, I've found Fram PH6811EG (Extra Guard) to be a little taller (2-inches) than the original Yanmar/JD filter. My hood still closes too (important). So, it should be fine for more capacity.
> 
> As for Fram, I would NEVER trust their regular run of the mill filters. Their EG and TG are better built and are nearly like the performance of WIX, but 3X less cost of WIX on the Rockauto site.


OK, dropped the PH6811 type of filters. *Found even a better one PH8A or in WIX 51515. *

Do not use the PH6811. It has no by-pass valve and is only used on a few selected vehicles with really odd engines. Thus, if the filter gets really clogged, it will stop all flow of oil in the engine.


----------

