# Mitsubishi built case international 234



## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

I looked at a international 234 this weekend, made by Mitsubishi with a K3B engine in it. not a bad looking tractor, and would have most of the same spare parts as my ST1540, but it is leaking diesel fuel into the oil, probably from the injection pump. Pump appears to be a N ippon Denso pump held onto the injection camshaft with four bolts. Any chance it can be rebuilt? May need the pump guy's help on this one.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

The fuel injection pump also looks very similar to a Yanmar version too. So, chances are it can be rebuilt.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

bubbagoat said:


> I looked at a international 234 this weekend, made by Mitsubishi with a K3B engine in it. not a bad looking tractor, and would have most of the same spare parts as my ST1540, but it is leaking diesel fuel into the oil, probably from the injection pump. Pump appears to be a N ippon Denso pump held onto the injection camshaft with four bolts. Any chance it can be rebuilt? May need the pump guy's help on this one.
> View attachment 73499


BTW, have you read your PMs this week?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Yes it can b rebuilt.. no matter who U get to do it.. U HAVE TO REMOVE the shut off solenoid first.. left of the injection pump, looks like 1/2 a beer can..
U can contact me directly if u like..


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

At last an update: Well, I test drove it two weeks ago, struck a deal for it, and then helped the owner push it back into his garage since it would not start again... Brought it home last weekend, and checking the wiring out. Several mouse nests, and some burnt up wiring to the alternator. At least six wires totally severed. Put a new switch in it because the old owner broke off the key in it, and chewed up the slot the key fits in, and then I wired up the glow plugs and the starter solenoid. Found out the cable from the battery to the starter was too corroded to start the tractor, but used a set of jumper cables and finally got it to start tonight. Had to jump the stop solenoid to get it stopped, closing off the air intake would not stop it. Lots more wiring to fix, a dash to reinstall, but if I can start and stop it I will be happy. Then will need to run it long enough to see if the fuel is leaking into the engine and contaminating the oil, owner said he changed *some* of the oil, so will wait to do an oil analysis till after I get it fully changed myself, or see if the level rises. Seems to run fine when you get it started.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

bubbagoat said:


> At last an update: Well, I test drove it two weeks ago, struck a deal for it, and then helped the owner push it back into his garage since it would not start again... Brought it home last weekend, and checking the wiring out. Several mouse nests, and some burnt up wiring to the alternator. At least six wires totally severed. Put a new switch in it because the old owner broke off the key in it, and chewed up the slot the key fits in, and then I wired up the glow plugs and the starter solenoid. Found out the cable from the battery to the starter was too corroded to start the tractor, but used a set of jumper cables and finally got it to start tonight. Had to jump the stop solenoid to get it stopped, closing off the air intake would not stop it. Lots more wiring to fix, a dash to reinstall, but if I can start and stop it I will be happy. Then will need to run it long enough to see if the fuel is leaking into the engine and contaminating the oil, owner said he changed *some* of the oil, so will wait to do an oil analysis till after I get it fully changed myself, or see if the level rises. Seems to run fine when you get it started.


Sounds like some work. Hope you got it for a steal since it wasn't running.


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

Not a steal, but a decent price for a tractor like this. have enough to buy parts/injector pump if needed. Working a hour or two today in the 90 degree heat and humidity in Georgia on getting the loose ends of the wiring figured out, but then decided to pressure wash this evening under the fuel tank before I put things back together. Found out why the wiring was covered in diesel, there is a corroded hole in the tank right at one of the rubber where it sets on the metal support. When I loosened the tank up to clean the rest of the mouse stuff out from under there, it started leaking. I love mice.

Since parts for this tractor are hard to find, I may just clean and line the tank, it does not look very rusty inside, but there are some areas that look a little rusty. Does the POR-15 work OK? it is about a 4 gallon tank? I also thought about drilling a hole and putting a bolt with a gasket in it through the hole. Anyone do this? I have heard of people using screws as well, but a bolt would seal great once I work it into the hole.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

bubbagoat said:


> Not a steal, but a decent price for a tractor like this. have enough to buy parts/injector pump if needed. Working a hour or two today in the 90 degree heat and humidity in Georgia on getting the loose ends of the wiring figured out, but then decided to pressure wash this evening under the fuel tank before I put things back together. Found out why the wiring was covered in diesel, there is a corroded hole in the tank right at one of the rubber where it sets on the metal support. When I loosened the tank up to clean the rest of the mouse stuff out from under there, it started leaking. I love mice.
> 
> Since parts for this tractor are hard to find, I may just clean and line the tank, it does not look very rusty inside, but there are some areas that look a little rusty. Does the POR-15 work OK? it is about a 4 gallon tank? I also thought about drilling a hole and putting a bolt with a gasket in it through the hole. Anyone do this? I have heard of people using screws as well, but a bolt would seal great once I work it into the hole.


POR-15 if a debatable product. Some swear by it and others run for the hills. There isn't any in between comments other than what metal, how clean it was before prep and primer and after 5 years will it still be sticking to the metal? POR-15 has issues sticking to metals due to the surface 'cleanliness', texture and no film residue of anything else before the primer and then the POR-15. Using a metal chemical etch does help. Also, some say it's hard to apply paint onto it. hmmm 

I've personally not used it. However, I've gotten items with POR-15 on them. Would I purposely use it? Not really. 

What alternatives are there to POR-15? 
We do know of the Rustoleum products. Mileage will vary on what level you buy from them. 
Eastwood's POR-type has Glyptal. Some like it, other think it's harder to work vs. POR-15
Hammerite - Home Lasts a lifetime. Was a GE product prior.


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

got some more work done on it, coated the fuel tank with POR-15 and installed it last week, and connected up the dash wiring. most works, but the left read flasher light, and after I ran it a while, it will not shut off when you turn the key off. I had unplugged the alternator, so that may be part of the not stopping issue. went to install a stop switch, but found out on the back side of the stop solenoid can be pushed to shut it off. will try that next time I start it. photo of the mouse nest.


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

bottom of tank, at least two holes. all fuel tight and reinstalled and holding fuel at the moment


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

I'm glad the coating seems to be working for you.
I would have brazed the tank holes shut myself.


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

I would have too, but don’t have a torch, and there is a line of rust that might require you to braze the whole bottom.


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

anybody have a filter like this they want to sell? the previous owner tried to fix a leak in the petcock and put the retaining screw that keeps the lever in place wrong, and broke the pot metal casting on the petcock lever. it is easy to remove the petcock lever, just a phillips screw and it comes out, but it still leaks. I put a aftermarket filter inline and bypassed it, but would like to use it going forward.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

bubbagoat said:


> anybody have a filter like this they want to sell? the previous owner tried to fix a leak in the petcock and put the retaining screw that keeps the lever in place wrong, and broke the pot metal casting on the petcock lever. it is easy to remove the petcock lever, just a phillips screw and it comes out, but it still leaks. I put a aftermarket filter inline and bypassed it, but would like to use it going forward.
> View attachment 74481


It's been mentioned a few times that the Yanmar/John Deere unit also fit the Mitsubishi machines. The real question is, what one? Your machine has the really short stubby fuel bowl cap.


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

no valve guts, and damaged shut off lever


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

All the wiring issues have been repaired, she starts and shuts off well, tank is clean and lined, full of new fuel, and fitted a separate shutoff valve so filter is working well. Still working in the belly mower bearings and seals so it has not been put under much load, but seems to lack power. Seems to smoke sometimes, but not always, and exhaust seems to smell more than it should. Previous owner says it leaked fuel into the engine oil. Is there a easy way to tell if there is fuel leaking into the engine from the injector pump or if it gets in through the rings from bad injectors, or should I just get the injection pump and injectors rebuilt and be done with it?


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

bubbagoat said:


> All the wiring issues have been repaired, she starts and shuts off well, tank is clean and lined, full of new fuel, and fitted a separate shutoff valve so filter is working well. Still working in the belly mower bearings and seals so it has not been put under much load, but seems to lack power. Seems to smoke sometimes, but not always, and exhaust seems to smell more than it should. Previous owner says it leaked fuel into the engine oil. Is there a easy way to tell if there is fuel leaking into the engine from the injector pump or if it gets in through the rings from bad injectors, or should I just get the injection pump and injectors rebuilt and be done with it?


oh, oh, oh. no, no, no. Don't spend any money yet.

First do a cylinder compression leak down test. This would tell you enough info about the pistons and rings. How many hours on the meter? 

As for injectors, have you priced them yet and even know the availability? 

Is your engine easy to pull the oil pan off and to do a bottom end rebuilt? Such as new rings and maybe new piston heads and a few gaskets. BUT, like life gives you, the bearings might need a replacement too. 

Soooo, first do the compression leak down. Then evaluate the next steps. 

That machine has the K3B engine. Here's the Service Manual and Parts Manual.  

Keep us posted.


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

It has about 550 hours on the cable driven meter, and no blow by or bubbles in the radiator. Seems to run fine, then rough for a while. Don’t have a compression tester or leak down gauges, so wondering if it is worth spending money on them, and then having the injectors checked, and if a oil test needs a certain amount of run time to check for diesel in the engine oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum


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## bubbagoat (Nov 10, 2019)

Took most of the winter, but made progress. bought a pop tester, injectors were streaming more than spraying. Bought new bosh injectors (from Greece, $12 each) and cleaned the old ones, had to replace one that would not come out of the nozzle, but others spray and chatter like new now. still underpowered. Checked compression, #1 was 420psi, #2 was 330, #3 was 280. wet was not much different. Bought a leakdown tester. all seemed the same at about 10%. Decided to pull the head, it looked fine, and cylinders looked new, no ridge. Opened the bottom end, pulled the two low compression pistons. no sign of issues except #3 rings were a little carboned up, but still loose. Cleaned and put them back in. Sprayed carburetor cleaner in the exhaust ports and looked for leakage under the head, no leakage. Sprayed intake valves, no sign of leakage, but decided to pull the little intake manifold off to spray inside there and check before lapping the valves. Found a cleaning paper rag in the intake to #3 and partially obstruction #2. apparently they could not breath, so they did not have compression. Hope to finish reassembly next week. I think it will be a great tractor in a week.


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