# New Vintage Kubota



## ArkansasDave

Just picked up a older Kubota this week and a couple pieces of equipment along the week after the tractor it is a L185 2wd
with 669 hours it starts good and runs really well. So far i'm just learning about it and tinkering with it and of coarse locating
equipment so far I have a frontier mower and a Mahindra 4 ft box blade. Here are a few pictures.

Dave


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## pogobill

Welcome to the forum Dave, great looking tractor!
I've moved your post to the introductions section so we can get to know you. If you have any brand related questions or requests, go ahead and post them in the Kubota forum, you'll get more brand specific help.
Enjoy the forum!


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## BigT

Howdy Dave,

Attached is a tractordata.com data sheet for your "new" tractor. Note that it is a 17 HP tractor. 



https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/7/1277-kubota-l185.html


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## ArkansasDave

pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum Dave, great looking tractor!
> I've moved your post to the introductions section so we can get to know you. If you have any brand related questions or requests, go ahead and post them in the Kubota forum, you'll get more brans specific help.
> Enjoy the forum!


Thanks! I appreciate it

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

BigT said:


> Howdy Dave,
> 
> Attached is a tractordata.com data sheet for your "new" tractor. Note that it is a 17 HP tractor.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/2/7/1277-kubota-l185.html


Thanks for the info I will check it out

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

You get an owners manual with it? If so, first thing I'd do is change all the fluids and filters, including the air filter. If not, you can find the manuals online, I suggest getting them (owners and shop manuals). Nice unit.


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## SidecarFlip

Keep in mind that for a rear cutter of any style or anything pto operated, the rule of 4-5 horsepower per foot of width always applies.

Is it a hydrostat or gear drive? I cannot tell by your pictures.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> You get an owners manual with it? If so, first thing I'd do is change all the fluids and filters, including the air filter. If not, you can find the manuals online, I suggest getting them (owners and shop manuals). Nice unit.


No but I had a good fellow send me one in pdf form online and I am changing fluids and filters right now and airing up tires
I can't see the psi so according to a chart I found I figure 25 in front and 15 in rear does that sound about right? the fronts are
4.00-15 and rears are 9.5-9-24

thanks
Dave


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Keep in mind that for a rear cutter of any style or anything pto operated, the rule of 4-5 horsepower per foot of width always applies.
> 
> Is it a hydrostat or gear drive? I cannot tell by your pictures.


It's gear drive 16 speed

thanks
Dave


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## SidecarFlip

Watch your clutch adjustment (1/2 - to 1" freeplay in the pedal and don't use it for a footrest either. You'll quickly wear out the throwout bearing and possibly the clutch plate and both require a split.

When you park it for any length of tome, wedge a block of wood between the cowl and the pedal to hold the clutch plate off the flywheel, They have a habit of rusting to the flywheel and getting one unstuck can be a frustrating job. Most of the early Kubota's will have a small hook welded on or bolted to the tractor next to the clutch pedal. it's for holding the pedal down when the tractor is parked. Use it or block the pedal down

With a hydro, there is really no need usually.

Looks to me that the front tire in the picture is low. I'd be checking them all and running my pressures at whatever is stamped on the tire sidewalls.


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## ArkansasDave

yeah I am trying to figure that out today i can't find the small print on them except the front says don't exceed 35 seating
the bead. I found a chart that said 25-32 front and 15-30 rear from firestone. I am going to put 25 in front and 15 in rear I thought they looked low too. Does that sound about right? the fronts are 4.00-15 and rears are 9.5-9-24

thanks
Dave


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## SidecarFlip

ArkansasDave said:


> No but I had a good fellow send me one in pdf form online and I am changing fluids and filters right now and airing up tires
> I can't see the psi so according to a chart I found I figure 25 in front and 15 in rear does that sound about right? the fronts are
> 4.00-15 and rears are 9.5-9-24
> 
> thanks
> Dave


Sounds about right. I run 25 in the fronts and 20 out back but I have an FEL and use it for loading rounds and 20 out back because the rubber lasts longer and it's 5 grand for new shoes on each one of mine.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Sounds about right. I run 25 in the fronts and 20 out back but I have an FEL and use it for loading rounds and 20 out back because the rubber lasts longer and it's 5 grand for new shoes on each one of mine.


Ok thanks! Wow that's some serious money for some tires I would take care of them too.
thanks
Dave


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## Mrsig

and enjoy the forum! 

Have fun with your cool new toy.


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## ArkansasDave

Picked up a middle buster today and tried it and the box blade out and was very surprised at how well the tractor
did it pulled that stuff like a champ and didn't have any problem. I wasn't sure at first if I would keep it or not if it was under
powered but it had plenty of power for what I'm doing with it. So I have decided to spend some money on it and get it in top
shape. It is in really good shape now but I want to get it to new condition and keep it that way I have operated several tractors and this is one of my favorites.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

Mrsig said:


> and enjoy the forum!
> 
> Have fun with your cool new toy.


Thanks! And funny you should say that about having fun with my new toy because I got a call today while on my tractor and it was the wife and she said you were supposed to be home for supper 30 minutes ago instead playing on that darn tractor get yourself home before your food is cold we already ate. LOL


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## SidecarFlip

Wish I could call mine 'toys' but they aren't. Mine are tools to make money with and expensive to boot. I will say those light duty 'middle busters' don't hold up very well, I don't have one, don't need one but I've read many comments about them failing. 5 grand for news tires in reality isn't all that bad. R1 Tire prices all hinge on tire size, the bigger they are, the more they cost. I am curious as to what the 'orange covered pipe' is in your pictures?


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## Ford 3600

Nice find dave

Always liked the ole 185’s


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Wish I could call mine 'toys' but they aren't. Mine are tools to make money with and expensive to boot. I will say those light duty 'middle busters' don't hold up very well, I don't have one, don't need one but I've read many comments about them failing. 5 grand for news tires in reality isn't all that bad. R1 Tire prices all hinge on tire size, the bigger they are, the more they cost. I am curious as to what the 'orange covered pipe' is in your pictures?


The orange covered pipe was someone's attempt to fix the hole in the exhaust I have located a new complete pipe so Iplan to order one or replace the bad section but probably just replace it all. Yes this Middle buster is light weight for sure I had two to chose from and this one had extra bracing at the top and in the rear so I went with it over the other one. But I still think if it got hung up on something it might fold like an accordion. I have been trying to locate a 5 ft angle blade this
morning that is about the only other thing I need other than I need a boom pole eventually. I plan to go over the finish mower this week and get it ready to mow with around Friday. I picked up some decent grease for it and plan to stand it up with my engine crane and anchor it so I can sharpen the blades and remove the hay tie rope off the spindles I saw and pressure wash and paint the underside look to be mainly surface rust from sitting after mowing.I seen a new product for coating the underside of mowers to prevent grass build up I may look at getting some of that also.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

Ford 3600 said:


> Nice find dave
> 
> Always liked the ole 185’s


thanks I really like it so far it has impressed me for sure for it's size.

Dave


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## Ford 3600

Nice find dave

Always liked the ole 185’s


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## SidecarFlip

If it's orange, I like it too (tractors at least)....


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## ArkansasDave

Well I finally picked up a blade for it today just ended up going with a new one made by Behren's mfg I used it 
for 2.5 hours today and it worked great so far. Back at it again tomorrow afternoon I have to service the finish mower
in the morning and mow my main yard with my regular lawn mower. So far this thing is great no issues other than the 
starter hung just for a second once but other than that just great.


Dave


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## ArkansasDave

Ford 3600 said:


> Nice find dave
> 
> Always liked the ole 185’s


Thanks yeah I like it allot so far

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> If it's orange, I like it too (tractors at least)....


Yeah I think it's a keeper and I can see another one in the future to go with it maybe a L225 or a L265 who knows!

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

Spent the afternoon yesterday ( my post didn't post because I forgot to hit the post reply button yesterday!) working on the finish mower getting it ready for mowing. I stood it up and sharpened the blades
they were still fairly usable I have seen allot worse and the dealer said it would be a week or I could go to the next dealer about 30 miles so I looked them over and they had at least one more summer left in them so I just sharpened them and tomorrow I am going to hit the bottom with a flapper wheel to knock down any surface rust there wasn't any grass stuck on it. Then I have some rusty metal primer that I am going to coat the bottom with to protect it and then drop it down and grease everything up and get it ready to roll.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

Today I got a coat of primer put on the mower bottom and put it back on its wheels getting ready for mowing tomorrow. Then I ran my grader blade the rest of the day working on a drainage ditch I'm building on my new land that joins my current property.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

I am trying to figure out what year my tractor is I know they were made from 77-82 but can't figure how to i.d. the year
the tag on the side of the trans has the model number and a couple numbers but no year I read that the engine is date
coded but can'f find the tag on the engine. If anyone has any info on this I would appreciate the help.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

fought the pto all morning think it was dirty but finally got it on the tractor greased everything and discovered that when the
dealer ran it for me to check out before buying it didn't have a belt on so I was hearing the gearbox which is nice and 
quiet. But the tension spring was off so I reinstalled and put everything back together and I think I have a bad bearing it is
mowing but man it's loud it sounds like a noisy gear drive it's louder than the tractor. Anyway I see a bearing job in the future.

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

If you mean a noisy spindle, there should be grease fittings on them and they are easily rebuildable. Easy to tell a bad spindle, just grab each blade and wiggle it. If it wiggles, the bearings are shot and need replaced. Waiting can destroy the housings however. As with most used equipment, people don't trade in in or sell it because it's perfect. On the contrary. Usually, a piece of equipment, especially one that is older, will need work yo make it right.


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## SidecarFlip

You need to keep the PTO stub shaft CLEAN AND GREASED. Your local dealer will have a plastic PTO cover cover / guard that slips over the stub to keep it that way and same applies to the female coupler on ANY implement. They need to be clean inside and greased as well as the U joints on the PTO driveline. As a rule, I use a ziplock bag over the female end on all my implements to keep them clean and out of the weather. Easy on, easy off. All my hydraulic connections are always dust and dirt capped when not in use (tractor and implements) as well.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> If you mean a noisy spindle, there should be grease fittings on them and they are easily rebuildable. Easy to tell a bad spindle, just grab each blade and wiggle it. If it wiggles, the bearings are shot and need replaced. Waiting can destroy the housings however. As with most used equipment, people don't trade in in or sell it because it's perfect. On the contrary. Usually, a piece of equipment, especially one that is older, will need work yo make it right.


I did try to move it the other day and they seamed tight and greased them before trying it but the middle one didn't spin by
hand very well but was tight that is probably my culprit.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> You need to keep the PTO stub shaft CLEAN AND GREASED. Your local dealer will have a plastic PTO cover cover / guard that slips over the stub to keep it that way and same applies to the female coupler on ANY implement. They need to be clean inside and greased as well as the U joints on the PTO driveline. As a rule, I use a ziplock bag over the female end on all my implements to keep them clean and out of the weather. Easy on, easy off. All my hydraulic connections are always dust and dirt capped when not in use (tractor and implements) as well.


I did grease all the pto parts before I ran it I will use the ziplock trick when storing it that's a good idea and check on the stub
shaft cover at the dealer. Thanks for the tips I need all the help I can get.

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

Time to take the middle spindle apart and renew the bearings.


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## ArkansasDave

I agree I am going to pull it off and look it over I imagine those bearings are pressed
on the shaft so I'll have to have a machine shop or the dealer press on the new ones
I found the bearings new oem for about 28 bucks and I figure I will need two seals 
and two bearings don't know of anything else unless it damaged something else. 
I will call the dealer Monday and see what they can do it for if I bring them the spindle.

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

If there is a nut on top of the spindle, they are not pressed on, If there is a nut, the nut secures the assembly and there will be a spacer inside that pre loads the bearings (how mine are on my mower deck). Even if they are pressed on, I suggest removing the inner dust shields on them so the grease can get in them when you grease the spindles.

I used to replace bearings every year until I figured out that removing the inner dust shields actually allows the bearings to get sufficient grease Have not replaced a bearing since.

You can probably get them cheaper at a bearing place like Motion Industries. Each bearing will have a catalog number etched into the body and you and bearing place can cross that number to various manufacturers. Bearings have been standardized for decades.

Pressed on isn't an issue here, I have a hydraulic arbor press.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> If there is a nut on top of the spindle, they are not pressed on, If there is a nut, the nut secures the assembly and there will be a spacer inside that pre loads the bearings (how mine are on my mower deck). Even if they are pressed on, I suggest removing the inner dust shields on them so the grease can get in them when you grease the spindles.
> 
> I used to replace bearings every year until I figured out that removing the inner dust shields actually allows the bearings to get sufficient grease Have not replaced a bearing since.
> 
> You can probably get them cheaper at a bearing place like Motion Industries. Each bearing will have a catalog number etched into the body and you and bearing place can cross that number to various manufacturers. Bearings have been standardized for decades.
> 
> Pressed on isn't an issue here, I have a hydraulic arbor press.


I will check it out don't remember a nut but I'll look and not sure on the dust shields as to where they
are located I'll post a diagram of my spindle. We do have a Motion Industries about 10 miles from me
so I will check with them. So the bearings will be like auto bearings with the number on the race. I'll check them out and I have the JD bearing number it is 5WP29899 I got that from the diagram in the owners manual I found online. I really appreciate all the help I have worked on vehicles for years but not on allot of tractors. I've drove several tractors but not worked on them much.

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

Yep, 9 is the pre load spacer and 1 is the preload nut. Part 5 is the expansion (tapered bush) that secures the assembly together. That is a 'Browning' bushing as it's called. and the drive pulley (6) is keyed to the shaft.

The upper and lower bearings (8) may have dust shields on both sides and if the do, remove the inner facing dust shield with a sharp edged knife or pointed pick and toss it. That will allow grease from part 21 to get into the bearings and prolong the life of them Your spindles are very similar to mine actually.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Yep, 9 is the pre load spacer and 1 is the preload nut. Part 5 is the expansion (tapered bush) that secures the assembly together. That is a 'Browning' bushing as it's called. and the drive pulley (6) is keyed to the shaft.
> 
> The upper and lower bearings (8) may have dust shields on both sides and if the do, remove the inner facing dust shield with a sharp edged knife or pointed pick and toss it. That will allow grease from part 21 to get into the bearings and prolong the life of them Your spindles are very similar to mine actually.


Ok I'll check them out and see I appreciate the help 

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

When you remove the top nut, you will have to use a small 3 jaw puller to extract the Browning busking as it's tapered and will be stuck in the pulley bore. remove the 2 or 3 bolts that are threaded into it. Those bolts are what you use to push the bushing into the tapered sheave to secure it. Browning's are real common in higher end machinery. Their presence tells you it's a quality assembly.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> When you remove the top nut, you will have to use a small 3 jaw puller to extract the Browning busking as it's tapered and will be stuck in the pulley bore. remove the 2 or 3 bolts that are threaded into it. Those bolts are what you use to push the bushing into the tapered sheave to secure it. Browning's are real common in higher end machinery. Their presence tells you it's a quality assembly.


I got it partially torn down today I removed the gear box and pulled the jam nut and washer, then the manual
said to remove the two screws in the bushing and put them in the two threaded holes and equally apply pressure
until the bushing pulls up from the pulley it didn't it broke one bolt so i applied pressure with a wedge shaped 
bar and it started moving up still couldn't get puller on yet. I did get some bearing numbers for Timken and 
found out my local Motion Industries only ship parts now and don't accept walk in customers due to Covid.
Anyway I won't be able to work on it tomorrow but when I start on it Wednesday I thought I might put
some heat on it. I soaked it in Aerokroil today and I think I could put a bolt through the unthreaded holes
and put a nut underneath the bushing to thread it into and then it would still push off the pulley to help seperate
it. Anyway fingers crossed.

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

I don't have much faith in Kroil. I know gun guys use it but I don't. PBlaster or a mixture of red ATF and acetone as a break free solution. Heat might help but use a propane torch, not a gas axe. A gas axe will take the temper out of the shaft.

You might also try hitting the top of the shaft with a brass hammer. Don 't use a regular hammer, will bugger up the threads.

I've used a 'pickle fork' in the past to remove them too. Pickle fork is a tie rod joint separator. I have one that chucks in my air hammer (.401 shank) and it does a pretty quick job on Browning tapered couplings.

it will come off, will just take some 'persuasion'.


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## ArkansasDave

I hadn't thought about that pickle fork I have one and I had thought about the air hammer I have one 
of those too so I'll try that also. I am a big PB blaster fan that's what I normally use but I happened to have 
the kroil sitting there but I just read about the atf/acetone last week I have worked on vehicles for years
and never heard of this until last week and have seen it mentioned 3 times counting you telling me about
it. I will have to mix some up in a spray bottle. 

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

It will separate in the bottle so you have to shake it up before you use it. I keep a spritz bottle of ATF/Acetone handy all the time. Works as good as PBlaster and lots cheaper. The cutting edge on my snowplow, the dome head plow bolts were securely rusted together. A few days soaking with ATF/acetone and they came right apart, well with an impact wrench they did.


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## ArkansasDave

Got my bearings ordered after I got home and went and treated the bushing with the mixture so it 
could sit overnight and soak. I picked up a big wedge point chisel about twice as big as I was 
using to help lift the bushing of coarse with care not to break it and I am going to use my air hammer
if it don't come right off and persuade it a little. I have to run by NAPA they are getting my seals for
me. I was going to get my bearing there but they had to order them from so far away the freight was
higher than the bearing was. So I got the Timken from another place with free shipping. 

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

Hard to beat Timken. I grew up not to far from Canton, Ohio, home of Timken. Use your propane torch when you try to remove it too and don't forget to remove the inner dust seals on both bearings before installing them (if they have seals, they might not).


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Hard to beat Timken. I grew up not to far from Canton, Ohio, home of Timken. Use your propane torch when you try to remove it too and don't forget to remove the inner dust seals on both bearings before installing them (if they have seals, they might not).


Ok I did forget about the torch I'll get it out too. Also I talk to a fellow that has a 
mower like mine and replaced his bearings last summer so I asked him about 
the dust seals and he said there wasn't any inner dust seals and the grease would be
able to move through. He said the first set of bearings lasted 16 years until last summer.
Hopefully I'll be back in business soon.

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

Just look and see (bearings). Most ship with dust seals, have to say I've never seen an open one. Make sure the arbor (shaft is clean) and bright so the new seals seal good. Scotchbrite it, not sandpaper and load the bearings with grease prir to installing them I use a bearing packer myself. 2 cones on a threaded shaft with a zerk on top. Forces grease into the bearings. Autozone will have one and they are cheap. I use it on all bearings I replace. Seal in the bottom (set with a seal driver or an appropriate sized socket), put the shaft in from the bottom and then.. bearing, spacer, bearing, key, pulley Browning and lock tab and jam nut. Tighten the jam nut until all the vertical play is removed, a bit more until the shaft resists turning, back off the nut 1/4 turn, lock it and you'll be good to go, other than filling the spindle with a good grade of SYNTHETIC grease.

I grease my spindles at the same frequency I grease the tractors at, every 10 - 15 hours.... and I grease them until I see grease coming out from the bottom seal. Grease and motor oil are the 2 cheapest things you will ever buy.


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## SidecarFlip

Don't forget to grease the trailing wheels and spindles too. I bet they have grease fittings on them as well.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Just look and see (bearings). Most ship with dust seals, have to say I've never seen an open one. Make sure the arbor (shaft is clean) and bright so the new seals seal good. Scotchbrite it, not sandpaper and load the bearings with grease prir to installing them I use a bearing packer myself. 2 cones on a threaded shaft with a zerk on top. Forces grease into the bearings. Autozone will have one and they are cheap. I use it on all bearings I replace. Seal in the bottom (set with a seal driver or an appropriate sized socket), put the shaft in from the bottom and then.. bearing, spacer, bearing, key, pulley Browning and lock tab and jam nut. Tighten the jam nut until all the vertical play is removed, a bit more until the shaft resists turning, back off the nut 1/4 turn, lock it and you'll be good to go, other than filling the spindle with a good grade of SYNTHETIC grease.
> 
> I grease my spindles at the same frequency I grease the tractors at, every 10 - 15 hours.... and I grease them until I see grease coming out from the bottom seal. Grease and motor oil are the 2 cheapest things you will ever buy.


Ok I'll look them over, I have the Scotchbrite, I have used the bearing packers but don't have one myself 
I always just pack them old school but the packer is allot faster and a little less messy I might pick one up. 
I will look for some grease this is what I put in the other day but I don't think it is synthetic:











Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease is a shear stable product with exceptional extreme pressure characteristics and excellent water resistance. It has been tested to ensure that it is superior to all conventional greases. It meets or exceeds OEM lube for life requirements and last two to four times longer than conventional grease. Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease is especially formulated to decrease maintenance and extend component life in heavy duty trucks, farm equipment and construction equipment. Perfect for high temperatures, high speed bearings, irregular maintenance and cold weather.

Formulated for automotive, agriculture, heavy-duty and industrial applications, stands up to high temperatures, and stays soft in very low temperatures
Virtually waterproof and is more stable than conventional lithium grease
Made in the USA
Maintains a constant film of protection even under irregular maintenance schedules
Dave


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Don't forget to grease the trailing wheels and spindles too. I bet they have grease fittings on them as well.


That's another whole can of worms they are froze on the pivots and I can't get them loose I been treating 
them for a few days with penetrating oil and one took grease but they are stuck I put a bar in the wishbone
and tried to nudge them without over doing it and bending them and they are stiff. I figure I will put the Atf/acetone
mixture on them from the top for a few days then heat with my propane torch and take the bolts out and see if 
I cant get them to come out then clean them and grease and put back in. The wheels turn great the other day
I was having to pick up the mower at the turn around point and sit it back down once I turned around but I 
need to get them fixed so they work. I figure if I put enough penetrating solution and keep working with them
they will come around hopefully.

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

I always maintain that when buying anything used, the previous owner let the machine go to hell because they knew they were selling or trading it in. Sadly, that is human nature to do that. I don't, which is why I get top buck when I sell off a piece of equipment. Like the NH 575 square bailer I sold on Tractor house 2 months ago. I sold it 100% field ready, greased, twined (6 balls in the twine box), threaded and ready to bale and how I'm trading in my NH round baler to my dealer soon. I twill be 100% ready to run, clean, greased and totally free of hay chaff. Most people don't do that but I do and it gets me top buck when I sell them off too.

That grease is just fine. Stay away from any cheap grease (like Tractor Supply Traveler brand). It's clay based (not polyurea) based grease and cheap clay based grease hardens in Zerk (Alemite) fittings and inside an assembly in use. Always use a synthetic based grease and never cheap out with cheap grease.

Something I forgot to add about your new / old Kubota tractor. One, you can probably find the manual and the workshop manual for it (if you don't have it) on Kubotabooks.com and you need to keep the front axle pivot greased and greased regularly. Kubota uses bronze bushings in the front axle pivot and there will be at least one grease fitting on the front pivot (some will have 2). People tend to forget to grease the pivot and it's a royal PITA to replace the bushings. The axle don't move a lot but it carries a lot of weight. Grease it.


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## ArkansasDave

Well I got that browning bushing off finally! but after pulling it I noticed a hair line crack in my pulley
I guess I cracked it even though I was being easy with it. They look like cast steel or iron, I think I 
could weld the crack since it's very minor but we will see. 

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

Could be either but I would suggest pre heating it with a gas axe and high temperature brazing it with flux coated brazing rod. Get it dull red and put the brazing rod to it and let it cool naturally, no forced cooling. When you assemble the spindle again, a light wipe of silver never seize on the face of the Browning will help you getting it off next time, if there is a next time.

Pre clean it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner to remove any oil or crud.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> I always maintain that when buying anything used, the previous owner let the machine go to hell because they knew they were selling or trading it in. Sadly, that is human nature to do that. I don't, which is why I get top buck when I sell off a piece of equipment. Like the NH 575 square bailer I sold on Tractor house 2 months ago. I sold it 100% field ready, greased, twined (6 balls in the twine box), threaded and ready to bale and how I'm trading in my NH round baler to my dealer soon. I twill be 100% ready to run, clean, greased and totally free of hay chaff. Most people don't do that but I do and it gets me top buck when I sell them off too.
> 
> That grease is just fine. Stay away from any cheap grease (like Tractor Supply Traveler brand). It's clay based (not polyurea) based grease and cheap clay based grease hardens in Zerk (Alemite) fittings and inside an assembly in use. Always use a synthetic based grease and never cheap out with cheap grease.
> 
> Something I forgot to add about your new / old Kubota tractor. One, you can probably find the manual and the workshop manual for it (if you don't have it) on Kubotabooks.com and you need to keep the front axle pivot greased and greased regularly. Kubota uses bronze bushings in the front axle pivot and there will be at least one grease fitting on the front pivot (some will have 2). People tend to forget to grease the pivot and it's a royal PITA to replace the bushings. The axle don't move a lot but it carries a lot of weight. Grease it.


I know what you mean I keep my stuff as maintained as possible and start everything and let it run 
on a schedule and everything I have sold usually brings a good return. I sold a camper two weeks ago and the 
guy said it was like new and didn't haggle on price so that made it worthwhile. I didn't know about the bushings
on the axle I appreciate the heads up i'll grease those in the morning. 

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Could be either but I would suggest pre heating it with a gas axe and high temperature brazing it with flux coated brazing rod. Get it dull red and put the brazing rod to it and let it cool naturally, no forced cooling. When you assemble the spindle again, a light wipe of silver never seize on the face of the Browning will help you getting it off next time, if there is a next time.
> 
> Pre clean it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner to remove any oil or crud.


I was going to ask about the anti-seize I have a can of nickel anti-seize in the shop and I've brazed a little
I should be able to patch it up maybe.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Not much skill involved in brazing and it's a nice intro to TIG welding too because it involves both hands, torch in one, rod in the other. Get yourself a tube of rod at TSC (flux coated) and be happy. Soft flame on your gas axe and preheat the pulley then concentrate on the crack and fill with brazing rod and let cool. Easy peasy.

How I started out decades ago, using coat hangers and my Harris Calorific gas axe to weld with. Stuck a ton of stuff together from suspension hangers to truck frames with coat hangers. TIG is nothing more than substituting a controlled arc (via a Tungsten electrode) and feeding in filler rod that is compatible with the material you are sticking together. You do have to keep the filler rod in the gas envelope the TIG torch is producing, but that is about it. All that 'stacking dimes' in TIG welding comes with experience and has nothing to do really with sticking stuff together. That is 100% aesthetics. Torch in the right, filler rod in the left, just like brazing.

Year before last I was square bailing in the field and broke the cast steel twine wiper on the bailer. Took it off, drove home, prepped it and brazed it back together and when I sold the bailer a few months back, it was still on there doing just fine. Crew that was loading for me said I was done for the day. told them to take a break, I'd be back in 20 minutes and I was.

Bought a spare just in case. Went with the bailer, in the tool box.

if the crack is small, I'd not even Vee it out at all, just braze it. if it's not small, Vee it out a bit with a die grinder and an abrasive burr and then braze it. (on the outside not the inside of the bore. You might get a little flow in the bore that you'll have to use a round file to remove.

Too bad you don't live close, I love doing stuff like that.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Not much skill involved in brazing and it's a nice intro to TIG welding too because it involves both hands, torch in one, rod in the other. Get yourself a tube of rod at TSC (flux coated) and be happy. Soft flame on your gas axe and preheat the pulley then concentrate on the crack and fill with brazing rod and let cool. Easy peasy.
> 
> How I started out decades ago, using coat hangers and my Harris Calorific gas axe to weld with. Stuck a ton of stuff together from suspension hangers to truck frames with coat hangers. TIG is nothing more than substituting a controlled arc (via a Tungsten electrode) and feeding in filler rod that is compatible with the material you are sticking together. You do have to keep the filler rod in the gas envelope the TIG torch is producing, but that is about it. All that 'stacking dimes' in TIG welding comes with experience and has nothing to do really with sticking stuff together. That is 100% aesthetics. Torch in the right, filler rod in the left, just like brazing.
> 
> Year before last I was square bailing in the field and broke the cast steel twine wiper on the bailer. Took it off, drove home, prepped it and brazed it back together and when I sold the bailer a few months back, it was still on there doing just fine. Crew that was loading for me said I was done for the day. told them to take a break, I'd be back in 20 minutes and I was.
> 
> Bought a spare just in case. Went with the bailer, in the tool box.
> 
> if the crack is small, I'd not even Vee it out at all, just braze it. if it's not small, Vee it out a bit with a die grinder and an abrasive burr and then braze it. (on the outside not the inside of the bore. You might get a little flow in the bore that you'll have to use a round file to remove.
> 
> Too bad you don't live close, I love doing stuff like that.


I appreciate the info I haven't welded or brazed allot and I wish I was closer I would take you up on that.

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

Which one of these would be best?



https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/forney-48500-fluxed-low-fuming-bronze-brazing-rod-1-8-in-x-18-in-10-rods





https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/hobart-flux-coated-bronze-gas-welding-rods-1-8-in-x-18-in-3810797?cm_mmc=feed-_-GoogleShopping-_-Product-_-3810797&gclid=CjwKCAjwgISIBhBfEiwALE19SSXfniRi2Expq7_nhixD3LspkyWV_X95QuBPm2wWJk4oQpOS-XqSlhoCoD0QAvD_BwE



thanks
Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Either one. Both basically the same. The flux (Borax mixture) is the same on both. Last tube I bought I got from Air Products (the fill my bottles too) and I think it was their house brand, all the same anyway, just different packaging. Buy the least expensive one. Keep them dry. I like to put a long sliver of bread crust on the package to keep them dry.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Either one. Both basically the same. The flux (Borax mixture) is the same on both. Last tube I bought I got from Air Products (the fill my bottles too) and I think it was their house brand, all the same anyway, just different packaging. Buy the least expensive one. Keep them dry. I like to put a long sliver of bread crust on the package to keep them dry.


ok thanks I'll check on getting some

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

Been a long day, started at 6 and just came in to call it a day. I finally found the pivot on the front of
the tractor I looked off and on today and finally with a light located it. It seemed to take a bunch
then it stopped and built pressure where the handle wouldn't move so I pulled it off the zerk and
didn't see grease everywhere so it went somewhere. I been working on the finish mower, the tractor and a m101-a1 trailer I have its been a long one. I hope I got to that bushing in time I 
didn't even think about that area but makes total sense I am glad you told me about
it SidecarFlip.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Like I said, Kubota uses bronze bushings in the front pivot and people tend to not keep them greased. I would attempt to regrease it in a few days of use. Easiest way to tell if the bushings are sloppy is raise the front end off the ground with the loader or jack it up using the frame as a lift point and wiggle the entire front end in both directions (forward and back and up and down (articulate it) and observe the spacing between the joint where the pivot meets the front casting for undue movement. The grease should (at some point) start oozing from that joint. Sometimes they will take grease better when raised off the ground and all weight is removed from the joint. That is how I grease mine, with the front end raised with the bucket. On my M's, there is a square pipe plug opposite the grease fitting that I can remove and let the grease flow out if necessary. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't, most times don't. I just grease until I see it oozing out.


----------



## SidecarFlip

I do know my Kubota's pretty well after owning so many....lol


----------



## ArkansasDave

This is the 2nd kubota tractor I've operated and the first I've owned and I like it already. I'm trying to get
it back in top shape then I am going to repaint all the blue that is faded, rusted or worn off. Then Use
and enjoy it. I'm still amazed at what this little thing can do for it's size. I used to drive a 3910 Ford
on a daily basis and this thing can do allot of what it could do. I will hit that axle with some more 
grease in a couple days after I do some more box blading. Mowing today and it's a Scorcher
high of 100 today and it's getting there quick. 

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

It's not 'blue' actually. It's either ROPS Grey Part Number 70000-73806 or Kubota Blue Part Number 70000-00197 which are both available at your local dealer in spray cans or pints or quarts and it's damn good paint too. I always have a few cans on hand for touching up spots on mine. Match the lid to your paint and be happy.

The orange parts are either Orange 1 or Orange 2. Early orange is Orange 1, late models are Orange 2. Rustoleum sells what they refer to as Kubota Orange but it's really Orange 2. Majic Paints also sells what they call Kubota Orange but it's really Orange 1.

Been there and did all that before. Both the Majic and the Rustoleum are good paints as well and come in spray cans, and quarts and pints.

No one other than Kubota sells the Kubota Blue or the ROPS Grey that I know of or at least not a perfect match and your local dealer's price on the Genuine Kubota paint is very competitive with box store prices.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> It's not 'blue' actually. It's either ROPS Grey Part Number 70000-73806 or Kubota Blue Part Number 70000-00197 which are both available at your local dealer in spray cans or pints or quarts and it's damn good paint too. I always have a few cans on hand for touching up spots on mine. Match the lid to your paint and be happy.
> 
> The orange parts are either Orange 1 or Orange 2. Early orange is Orange 1, late models are Orange 2. Rustoleum sells what they refer to as Kubota Orange but it's really Orange 2. Majic Paints also sells what they call Kubota Orange but it's really Orange 1.
> 
> Been there and did all that before. Both the Majic and the Rustoleum are good paints as well and come in spray cans, and quarts and pints.
> 
> No one other than Kubota sells the Kubota Blue or the ROPS Grey that I know of or at least not a perfect match and your local dealer's price on the Genuine Kubota paint is very competitive with box store prices.


Thanks for those part numbers mine being late 70' early 80's would be orange 1? 
I have sprayed the majic paint a couple times and really liked it. It does take awhile 
to apply. I used some of the Rustoleum industrial black and painted my car hauler 
trailer and smoke gray on another trailer. I found a brand called AG specialties that
sells a blue that is supposed to match not sure though. I have a local Kubota dealer 
that I been dealing with called RVT and I will give them a call. I would like to stay with
as original as possible.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Yours s Orange 1 which is the Majic paint color. Your local dealer *might* have it (Orange 1) but probably not as Kubota discontinued it a while ago. Best bet is the Majic paint. I believe the shade change had something to do with the trade dress lawsuit Kubota had with Kioti years ago. Not sure though.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Yours s Orange 1 which is the Majic paint color. Your local dealer *might* have it (Orange 1) but probably not as Kubota discontinued it a while ago. Best bet is the Majic paint. I believe the shade change had something to do with the trade dress lawsuit Kubota had with Kioti years ago. Not sure though.


Thanks I will check with the dealer and see, if not TSC has Majic paint I think I'll have to order it because
I didn't see it on the shelf. Also that Ag Specialties company shows the orange 1 also. But I have experience
with the majic paint and it worked well so that's probably what I will go with if the dealer doesn't have any. I found
a new grease fitting this morning my right brake pedal wasn't moving right so I went to lube it up with penetrating
oil and I noticed a fitting so I shot the grease to it and hopefully that will help. I have been running a box blade
the last couple hours after working on the tractor for an hour because it wouldn't start it's been acting up and
I thought I fixed it but the ground cable was loose and cleaned and tightened it and all the other connections
and fixed it right up. About to go back to box blading before this heat gets worse. Supposed to rain and 
cool down tomorrow hopefully it will pack my dirt I been moving around. 

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Kubota's are noted for the ground cable, where it attaches to the frame, getting corroded and causing hard starts or no starts. When I cleaned mine a few years ago when I replaced the battery, I removed all the corrosion on the frame (paint too) and cleaned the cable end and used a internal toothed lockwasher between the cable and the frame and another between the bolt head and the cable lug itself and coated everything with di-electric grease. Coming up on new battery time again (I change them every 5 years) so I'll do the ground lug again.


----------



## ArkansasDave

Waiting on parts for the mower still didn't get the tractor out because it was supposed to be raining
which it did twice once at 10 a.m. and again now at 6:49 p.m. the temperature dropped down into the 80's which is 
good. Today I worked on a couple small engines a Husqvarna 55 chainsaw I got running, a Craftsman saw, a Stihl
HT101 pole saw I got running and waiting on some parts for a Stihl FS90R string trimmer. Hopefully
the parts get here soon for the mower so I can put the Kubota to work.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Was gonna cut hay today but somehow got sidetracked. Maybe tomorrow morning. I prefer cutting after a rain. The moisture drives the juice out of the stems and they dry down faster. Supposed to rain tonight, fine with me.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Was gonna cut hay today but somehow got sidetracked. Maybe tomorrow morning. I prefer cutting after a rain. The moisture drives the juice out of the stems and they dry down faster. Supposed to rain tonight, fine with me.


Been allot of cutting going on next to my place also, they bale specialty hay for horses and have some good looking 
hay going out on flatbeds. They usually get around 3 cuts per summer. The guy I got the Kubota from cuts for 
the public he had some nice equipment in his barn.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Quit making hay for the 'public' about 5 years ago. I don't much care for dealing with people in general, especially horse people. To that end, I sold my NH575 high capacity square bailer on Tractor House a month ago, actually sold it in 2 days. All I run now is round bales in net and currently have one customer that buys it all and wants more. Loads in the field on his tractor trailers (I load them) and off it goes. I could pick up more hay ground but I'm hesitant to. I have about all I can handle now. Got it down to a one person, 2 tractor operation.

Next year, because of the increase in fuel prices and input prices (fertilizer), I'm increasing my price per bale a bit to compensate for that and I have a new Kubota Premium Net-Twine varible chamber round baler purchased, trading in my New Holland 450 varible chamber Net-Twine round baler, that will all take place this fall sometime.

Next year sometime, I'll probably trade in my NH discbine for a Kubota disc machine. The NH machine is my oldest piece of equipment now.

Like dealing with cattle people. No BS and their money is always good.


----------



## ArkansasDave

I hauled top soil today and started filling in some low places that need attention, I took my small trailer
which is an old M101 pivoting military trailer and I pulled under the loader and he overloaded me to
the point the trailer couldn't pivot so I had to break out the shovel. It hauled it fine but I had about twice
what I had planned on it. I have a spot where someone at some point had took a loader at the bottom
of a hill and removed an 8ft wide 70ft long swath of dirt about 2ft deep that holds water so I am filing it
in and its a slow process. I need an old grain hauler so I can haul more dirt, I used to drive 3 grain hauler
style trucks and we hauled dirt, sand and all sorts of stuff in them and they were fairly strong on their
dump system. My bearings came in today for the mower and I was relieved they were stamped U.S.A.
Now hopefully the seals will show up soon.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Nice trailer


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Nice trailer


Thanks I picked it up last year been looking for one for a long time

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

Going to put the Kubota to work tomorrow, I'm going to haul more dirt and use my box blade and 
grader blade to smooth out. I cut trees and burned brush most of the day today and then put
the new parts on the Stihl weed trimmer and another saw. I'll have to stay up and watch my
brush pile tonight it is still going strong and I don't like to leave a fire unattended even though
I ran a dirt ring around it fairly wide. Been a little cooler today mostly in the 80's.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

I'm a pyro at heart. Love roasting stuff. Into rapid oxidation with accelerant, usually used motor oil. One of my favorites is empty aerosol cans in the burn pile. They go off like small mortars.


----------



## ArkansasDave

Been tending my brush pile off and on today, hauled 6 more ton of top soil on my
big trailer and run the Kubota spreading it and leveling surrounding areas all afternoon
finally shut'er down at 6 pm I was having to much fun with the tractor it definitely got
a work out today. You know something is made well when it's that old and can run
all day long without a hiccup like a champ. And it didn't even complain like some
people I have worked with! Ha Ha It's been a nice day with a breeze started out
in the Low 70's this morning and is 96 now with 34% humidity and a breeze not
a bad day for tractor work.

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

Hauled more dirt today going to put the Kubota back to work tomorrow moving dirt 
also got my mower seals in today so I can start putting my bearings in the next few
days.

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

Hauled more dirt today worked the Kubota all afternoon and not a hiccup I think it's a
solid tractor. Got lots of plans for it and lots of work for it to do. Used the grader blade 
and box blade today. Got to mow tomorrow and try to put the new bearings in the 
finish mower. 

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

Got my mowing done today and spent the afternoon working on a press for removing bearings and spindle 
for finish mower. Started to buy a press locally but all the stores for miles were out of stock on the size I 
needed so I guess I'll just build it myself I have the legs and uprights done just have to add crossmembers
and jack.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Reminds me of the guy down the road. When he needs to break the bead on a tractor tire (big tractors), he drives his hi-lo up on the tire and breaks the bead. Cheap bead breaker compared the a 500 buck one from Gemplers. Kind of surprised the bearing aren't a light press fit with a spacer in between to maintain the bearing to bearing clearance. How mine are at least.

Why not just block the spindle under something heavy (like your vehicle frame) with the jack base on top the the spindle and use the vehicle weight to press it out. Sometimes a 'Rube Goldberg' approach works fine...


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Reminds me of the guy down the road. When he needs to break the bead on a tractor tire (big tractors), he drives his hi-lo up on the tire and breaks the bead. Cheap bead breaker compared the a 500 buck one from Gemplers. Kind of surprised the bearing aren't a light press fit with a spacer in between to maintain the bearing to bearing clearance. How mine are at least.
> 
> Why not just block the spindle under something heavy (like your vehicle frame) with the jack base on top the the spindle and use the vehicle weight to press it out. Sometimes a 'Rube Goldberg' approach works fine...


That's an idea for sure, I tried to put it in the vice and use my high lift jack like someone had suggested I 
don't remember who but he said he changes his that way but I couldn't configure anything that 
would hold and line up that way. 

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Go midway on the frame rail on one side. That way you get all the weight of the vehicle on the jack and spindle. Beats spending money to fabbing up a press. I'm cheap.


----------



## ArkansasDave

Well I never could get it set up where my jack can lift it due to the steel block welded to the end of the
shaft, I could have used a short piece of pipe but the block was almost as wide as the housing , so 
I went to buy a small press which they were out of stock been waiting since, built one out of 2x3 1/8 inch
channel welded and bent it but didn't move the shaft. I added 2x2 box steel to that but haven't tried it yet
due to my blood pressure getting out of whack dealing with that right now finally getting it down some
this heat hasn't helped any. So now I'm waiting to see if the 12 ton press ever gets back in stock or drive 
100 miles to get one. All the other stores around me were 3 times the price and the machine shops will 
cost as much as the press so right now i'm on hold I guess.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Did you try heating the shaft with a torch?


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Did you try heating the shaft with a torch?


no I didn't even think of that but I will try that next thanks Flip

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

I was telling a friend about my spindle I was trying to get out and that I was going to heat
it up and try to get it out and he said hey I know a couple guys down the road at our machine
shop. So he gave them a call and they said bring it in and they would let us press it out on their 
press. So that should take care of it hopefully .

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

It should but I'd still apply some penetrant oil (atf / acetone). My favorite elixir. That way it won't gall on the way out. I have a press but mine is for pushing broaches (and not the kind gals wear either)... I make do with it when I need to push something.


----------



## ArkansasDave

I lubed the spindle all up and took it over today and they put it in a 150 ton Dake air over hydraulic 
press it didn't move at first but then it popped and out it came. So now on to cleaning and installing
races then they are going to press it back in for me. Hopefully be mowing soon.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Tonnage usually moves about anything eventually. Mine is a Dake hydraulic arbor press, only 75 ton though. Good enough for what I fiddle with.


----------



## ArkansasDave

Worked on cleaning this thing up today it was almost to the point of no return. Amazing how
some people just use equipment until it can't go anymore and toss it and get another one to
abuse. This thing had 4 million miles of hay tie rope in it. It was melted to the shaft and inside
the bearings, seals and melted to the base of the spindle. My biggest fear is that it is in the
other two bearings also but they do spin freely so maybe I'll be lucky. Here are some
pictures of the mess.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Poly binder twine does terrible things to all spindles. One it starts getting wound around a spindle, the life of the bearing is short. I'm very careful about poly binder twine. in the grass or in a hayfield. It's death on a disc machine cutting hay as well and why most disc machines are designed with the support bearings recessed into the arm assembly so the poly slides off the top harmlessly (most times). I still have to remove the 'top hats' yearly and check them.

With an ordinary mower you don't have such luck. Once the poly gets in the bearings and melts from the friction produced as it destroys the bearing, it turns into a mass like in your pictures and the only way to remove it, it the manual way.

Great stuff for securing bales, hell on bearings. Yours is an extreme case where the previous owner just ignored the issue and when it got bad, traded the machine it so it became someone else's headache.


----------



## SidecarFlip

Keep pumping the grease to the other two and keep your fingers crossed. The bad one was probably an outside spindle as the outer spindles usually get the poly treatment while the inside one is usually spared.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Keep pumping the grease to the other two and keep your fingers crossed. The bad one was probably an outside spindle as the outer spindles usually get the poly treatment while the inside one is usually spared.


I hope they are ok they all had poly twine around them but this one seemed to have 
the most and it had melted twine around the outside of the seal it was the center
spindle. The other two spin freely so hopefully they just had it on the outside.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

If it was me, I'd take the other 2 apart just to make sure. I've done that more than once in the past.


----------



## ArkansasDave

Well I got the spindle all ready but was unable to find a chance when the machine shop 
could get to it that I was able to break free from work. So I decided since I am always 
needing a press anyway to get one so I can do all my bearings and make U-joints easier
to change and etc.. Plus if I swap the other two sets of bearings out it will be easier having
my own press so I had tried to pick one up local and they couldn't get any in stock lately
so I found a store in Little Rock that had 20 tons in stock they got in yesterday so I drove
the 60 miles this morning and picked it up and spent the afternoon putting it together. So
hopefully tomorrow I can get this thing back together and reinstalled.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

You NEVER have too many tools....


----------



## ArkansasDave

That's for sure I just went out and pressed the bottom bearing on in and then the other side in 
with no issue about to go press on the bushing now then the top seal will go in and done.

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

Got that bushing on and all finished except I messed up the lower seal the other
day and used the upper to replace it so I will have to get another seal to tap in 
the top and ready to bolt up to the mower.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

The HF shop press is a good buy, always has been Just like the Bauer cordless tools, I have a bunch and I use them pretty hard. Never had an issue (finding the smoke, mechanical failures, etc., and compared to Milwaukee or Dewalt, you can buy 3 Bauer's and still come out ahead.

I should start an HF tool thread..lol

Years ago I bought one of their 3 jaw hydraulic pullers. Best thing I ever bought, little cumbersome but you want to pull a frozen on disc brake rotor.. No issue. 3 pumps and it either lets go or the puller will break the rotor in half. Either way, it's off. No beating, no penetrating oil, nothing. Just set it up, 3 pumps on the handle and BAM. Pulled harmonic dampers, brake drums (no need to back the shoes off, they come off, shoes and all, flywheels, anything you can get the jaws on. Cheap too. The 12 ton 24,000 pounds pull is under 100 bucks, everyday and even less using the ITC membership.

Second favorite tool I have is the ICON 1/2" drive torque wrench. Not cheap, but compared to Snap on it is. 104 bucks in a fitted case, Snap on is over 500 from the tool truck and it's just as accurate as the Snap on and like the snap on it torques in both directions. Cheap wrenches only tighten torque and I require left and right hand torque values when doing full floating rears as well as harmonic dampener nuts.

Third is the Chief 4.5" air angle grinder. 99 bucks every day. Structural fiberglass body, rear exhaust, polished aluminum gear case and it has built in lubrication fittings and comes with real synthetic grease inside. Quiet as a mouse too. The closest competition is Ingersoll Rand at 250 bucks. In fact if you put them side by side they are identical. Must be made in the same Oriental factory.

Finally is their black oxide impact socket sets. never broke one and I really abuse them. Broken Snap On, Mac, SK Wayne and old school Craftsman, never a HF impact socket and they have a lifetime guarantee. You crack one, take it to any HF store and they replace it no charge. I get lazy and put a 1/2" to 3/4" impact adapter in the HF sockets and get out my IR 3/4" drive air impact and totally abuse them. What usually happens is the IR will break the bolt off.

HF does sell some junk but it you are careful (and don't buy the really cheap one use stuff), it's pretty good tools.

Stay away from their tarp straps. One, they stink and two they fall apart. Chineseum rubber is junk generally. Read some where that they use coal dust to make the rubber compound so it's why they stink. Far as longevity, has to be the compound. You might get a month out of them and then they get stiff and tear.

Don't buy their air impact guns either. They are all well underrated for power. Stick with IR or Florida Pneumatic. Snap On rebrands IR and sells them for more.


----------



## ArkansasDave

I finally got everything put in except the top seal I will have to
get next week since I ruined the 1st one thinking I went to far
and turned the seal inside out but it was my eyes playing tricks
on me because when I removed it the part I seen wasn't the seal
lip. So anyway seals are cheap i'll be more observant next time.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Always nice to have your own tools isn't it? I need to take the dash apart on the open station. The safety switch for the hydraulic shuttle is hanging up so it won't allow the starter to engage. I may just defeat it, I'm the only one who runs it anyway. I disconnected the PTO warning buzzer long ago. I can see when it's on just by looking. No big deal. Just had a cloud burst here. Good for the skeeters.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> The HF shop press is a good buy, always has been Just like the Bauer cordless tools, I have a bunch and I use them pretty hard. Never had an issue (finding the smoke, mechanical failures, etc., and compared to Milwaukee or Dewalt, you can buy 3 Bauer's and still come out ahead.
> 
> I should start an HF tool thread..lol
> 
> Years ago I bought one of their 3 jaw hydraulic pullers. Best thing I ever bought, little cumbersome but you want to pull a frozen on disc brake rotor.. No issue. 3 pumps and it either lets go or the puller will break the rotor in half. Either way, it's off. No beating, no penetrating oil, nothing. Just set it up, 3 pumps on the handle and BAM. Pulled harmonic dampers, brake drums (no need to back the shoes off, they come off, shoes and all, flywheels, anything you can get the jaws on. Cheap too. The 12 ton 24,000 pounds pull is under 100 bucks, everyday and even less using the ITC membership.
> 
> Second favorite tool I have is the ICON 1/2" drive torque wrench. Not cheap, but compared to Snap on it is. 104 bucks in a fitted case, Snap on is over 500 from the tool truck and it's just as accurate as the Snap on and like the snap on it torques in both directions. Cheap wrenches only tighten torque and I require left and right hand torque values when doing full floating rears as well as harmonic dampener nuts.
> 
> Third is the Chief 4.5" air angle grinder. 99 bucks every day. Structural fiberglass body, rear exhaust, polished aluminum gear case and it has built in lubrication fittings and comes with real synthetic grease inside. Quiet as a mouse too. The closest competition is Ingersoll Rand at 250 bucks. In fact if you put them side by side they are identical. Must be made in the same Oriental factory.
> 
> Finally is their black oxide impact socket sets. never broke one and I really abuse them. Broken Snap On, Mac, SK Wayne and old school Craftsman, never a HF impact socket and they have a lifetime guarantee. You crack one, take it to any HF store and they replace it no charge. I get lazy and put a 1/2" to 3/4" impact adapter in the HF sockets and get out my IR 3/4" drive air impact and totally abuse them. What usually happens is the IR will break the bolt off.
> 
> HF does sell some junk but it you are careful (and don't buy the really cheap one use stuff), it's pretty good tools.
> 
> Stay away from their tarp straps. One, they stink and two they fall apart. Chineseum rubber is junk generally. Read some where that they use coal dust to make the rubber compound so it's why they stink. Far as longevity, has to be the compound. You might get a month out of them and then they get stiff and tear.
> 
> Don't buy their air impact guns either. They are all well underrated for power. Stick with IR or Florida Pneumatic. Snap On rebrands IR and sells them for more.


We were mixing Flex-Crete a few weeks ago and using two new 1/2 inch Red 
MW drills and both burned upfairly fast couldn't believe it. They went and bought
two 1/2 inch drills we are still using the first one and it hasn't even felt hot to the 
touch I was shocked made a believer out of me. I have a friend I need to tell about 
that puller he lives in Indiana and is restoring a 1962 International 2 ton farm truck 
that belonged to his wife's family and he has been trying to get the rear drum off 
one side for weeks with no luck. I lucked out in the torque wrench department I ran 
across a Mac 1/2 inch drive 0-150 clicker torque wrench on auction online and won
it for 42 bucks free shipping. When it came in I couldn't even tell it had ever had a 
socket on the arbor. I already had a 1/2 inch snap-on dial type 0-250 and a Craftsman 
needle type. I got the snap-on years ago at work they replaced a bunch of tools that 
were a certain age which you couldn't tell they looked fairly new and gave us the old 
ones. So that was a good day for sure. I also have a IR 3/4 drive impact but it has 
something wrong I need take a look at and see what's wrong it has light use but quit
spinning probably a seal of some sort. And I agree about the sockets those impact 
sockets are tough I have some also. I have a couple sets of Kobalt impact sockets
the wife caught on clearance and bought me two sets Metric/SAE in hard cases for 
12 bucks a set. And a new reciprocating saw for 15 that had been 70 so she done
good that day. My 1/2 inch gun is a off brand Rodac and I have a Michelin heavy 
duty air rachet, a K tools air rachet. But most of the time I use my cordless impact 
1/2 inch Rigid or my Clark 1/2 inch corded sometimes. Yeah you need to start a tool 
thread I like to talk tools me and the son collect old tools to use and collect mainly
because most of them are 10 times better than what is available on some things.

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Always nice to have your own tools isn't it? I need to take the dash apart on the open station. The safety switch for the hydraulic shuttle is hanging up so it won't allow the starter to engage. I may just defeat it, I'm the only one who runs it anyway. I disconnected the PTO warning buzzer long ago. I can see when it's on just by looking. No big deal. Just had a cloud burst here. Good for the skeeters.


Yeah can't have too many tools is my motto I like having things that get me out of a bind when I need
them. I have needed a press for years and just never picked one up but i'm slowly getting everything
I need next I need to invest in a good drill press. The son decided to get a new tool box so we are going
this week to pick that up he is wanting to get one of the U.S. General 5 drawer tool box carts on wheels.
I been eyeballing them for awhile myself so we will probably be going back for another one later. LOL 
We have been trying to get our shop organized and most of the tools moved down there we have allot
of them in our garage at the house but we recently finished up this building in the back and are getting it
all set up as time allows. Still don't have "enough" room and am planning on building another building 
later on out back on his part of the land that is in the middle near me too, that way we can share it and 
eventually it will be his already stocked with whatever he needs when I'm too old to use it. LOL I like to 
wrench so much I don't see that happening soon. 

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Always nice to have your own tools isn't it? I need to take the dash apart on the open station. The safety switch for the hydraulic shuttle is hanging up so it won't allow the starter to engage. I may just defeat it, I'm the only one who runs it anyway. I disconnected the PTO warning buzzer long ago. I can see when it's on just by looking. No big deal. Just had a cloud burst here. Good for the skeeters.


The clouds just missed me they went north right over us, I sure need some rain on 
my grass seed and on my new grass that came up last week. It is supposed to rain
some tomorrow fingers crossed. We had allot of skeeters earlier in the spring when
it rained a bunch but haven't seen many lately thank goodness.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

I'm very impressed with the Bauer tools. Only thing I don't like is, when the Li-Ion battery gets down to one light, they quit but I always have spare charged batteries in the shop. Been buying the 5 amp hour batteries, they cost a little more (about 1/2 of the Milwaukee or De Walt batteries).

I also have one of those LED bendable shop lights (Braun) I think. Good light, 2 intensity settings and has a flashlight on the end and charges via USB. I keep a USB charger plugged in, in the shop fir it. HF uses Toshiba Li-Ion cells, not cheap ones.

Too bad the Bauer stuff isn't brushless but that would increase the cost. I'm fine with a little fire under the cover and you can buy replacement brushes from the HF website too.

Just picked a bare tool 1/2" hammer drill for 40 bucks new. I have plenty of batteries and charges, don't need any more. In fact, I'm gonna send my buddy in Maine one of my spare charges and the tool bag the drill came in and probably a couple of the 2 amp batteries. The extended run ones last a lot longer.

I use them hard and never have an issue. I always pass on the extended HF warranty. I tell the clerk I'm gonna run it real hard so if it pukes, will be in under 30 days and I'll get a new one anyway. So far, no puke.

My DeWalt is expiring slowly. Starting to stink, a sure sign of impending doom.

I kind of recommend the Bauer cordless angle grinder. I use that tool a lot. It even has built in removable dust screens to keep the grinding dust out of the motor. Nice touch for a 40 buck tool. Run time isn't that great with the 3 amp battery but not bad with the 5 amp.

On a negative note, the HF corded angle grinders are junk. The gearboxes are loud and I can find the rice paper smoke in them pretty quick. I took the last one apart before I used it and the gearbox had a tiny amount of what looked like Soy sauce in it. Flushed it out and put in some real grease. It was quieter but I still found the smoke pretty quick.

I have a Porter Cable angle grinder that I've abused terribly and it runs fine, gearbox is just loud. 40 bucks at Lowes.

The Chief 4.5" angle grinder is silent and smooth running. Extremely nice air grinder for just over 100 bucks. I'm totally impressed with it. I use angle grinders and needle scalers a lot on weld prep. I do a lot of welding. HF grinding discs aren't bad for the price either but their 4.5" flap wheels suck. DeWalt is much better, especially the big 10" ones and the thin kerf cut off discs are worth the money when you can buy them in a 10 pack.

Need to go to Air Gas and pickup a couple 10 pound cartons of Abrasoweld sticks. I have quite a bit of hard rodding to do this fall. I like Lincoln welding stuff (rods and machines) but I don't like their MIG wire. I buy Innefel wire off of Amazon. It wets out nicely and produces minimal spatter. Only drawback is it only comes in 2 pound or 10 pound spools. I prefer the 25 pound spools myself. Not bad for high amperage spray welding either and using the ESAB pulsed MIG in pulse mode makes for a very pretty weld.

Maybe it's time to discuss machine tools, I have a pretty fair collection of lathes, mills, surface grinders and assorted tooling too.

I get all my TIG filler rod from Air Gas (Lincoln) as well and my brazing rod too.

My issue with DeWallt and Milwaukee is, if the poop out you have to take them to an authorized service center to get fixed and pay even more. When an HF tool poops out, you landfill it and buy a new one.


----------



## SidecarFlip

My shop is 40 x 40, heated and air conditioned with 3 phase 440 in the main box and one side has a 10 ton overhead rail crane in it and the floors are 10" thick with PEX heat in them. I need thick floors for the machine tools and I like warm floors in the winter though my gas bill suffers a bit. I learned pretty quick to fire up the floor heat while it's still temperate outside to take advantage of the ground temperature and reduce the heat load on the slab. A 40 x 40 10" thick slab can eat a lot of BTU's getting up to 70 when it's below freezing outside (even though I have 6" of pink rigid foam under the slab and in the rat walls on top of a foot of compacted sand with Number 5 gravel under the sand for drainage).

I keep my one tractor with the plow and blower in one side of the shop along with the RV and the other side is the workshop. Other tractor 'hibernates' in the hay barn on a battery tender all winter. The cab tractor 'just fits' under the trusses. If it was any taller, it wouldn't fit. I even put PEX in the concrete slab in front of the shop though I rarely heat it. I don't like busting my butt on icy concrete. As it is, the cats like to sleep in front of the overhead doors in the winter to take advantage of the warm slab. They aren't stupid.

Have 3 air compressors, one screw compressor and 2 reciprocating ones. and the shop is all plumbed in black iron pipe with LED shop lights through out. With all 3 running I have around 35 CFM at 175 psi and there is an IR refrigerated air dryer on the main feed line too. I hate wet air. Ruins air tools. Most times I just run the screw compressor unless I'm using the plasma table, them all 3 are running. Shop is on a separate meter from the house and my electric bill averages about 110 bucks a month and I burn about 1000 gallons of propane heating it every year. Have 2 500 gallon propane bottles in tandem for the shop and backup heat in the house. I heat the house primarily with a bio mass stove burning corn which I get for next to nothing. Wife likes it warm in the house, me, not so much. She fuels the stove, I empty the ashes. The bio mass stove has saved me a fortune in heat costs. Had one for the last 20 years or so. Cats like it too. They all congregate around the front of it where it's always toasty. I take on just enough work to pay the utility bills and have some pocket money. Not gonna get rich but it's my 'man cave' and I like working alone anyway. farm usually breaks about even and I have a very astute accountant who makes sure we never have to pay a dime more than we have to in taxes. If I didn't have the cancer thing hanging over my head, retirement would be grand.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> My shop is 40 x 40, heated and air conditioned with 3 phase 440 in the main box and one side has a 10 ton overhead rail crane in it and the floors are 10" thick with PEX heat in them. I need thick floors for the machine tools and I like warm floors in the winter though my gas bill suffers a bit. I learned pretty quick to fire up the floor heat while it's still temperate outside to take advantage of the ground temperature and reduce the heat load on the slab. A 40 x 40 10" thick slab can eat a lot of BTU's getting up to 70 when it's below freezing outside (even though I have 6" of pink rigid foam under the slab and in the rat walls on top of a foot of compacted sand with Number 5 gravel under the sand for drainage).
> 
> I keep my one tractor with the plow and blower in one side of the shop along with the RV and the other side is the workshop. Other tractor 'hibernates' in the hay barn on a battery tender all winter. The cab tractor 'just fits' under the trusses. If it was any taller, it wouldn't fit. I even put PEX in the concrete slab in front of the shop though I rarely heat it. I don't like busting my butt on icy concrete. As it is, the cats like to sleep in front of the overhead doors in the winter to take advantage of the warm slab. They aren't stupid.
> 
> Have 3 air compressors, one screw compressor and 2 reciprocating ones. and the shop is all plumbed in black iron pipe with LED shop lights through out. With all 3 running I have around 35 CFM at 175 psi and there is an IR refrigerated air dryer on the main feed line too. I hate wet air. Ruins air tools. Most times I just run the screw compressor unless I'm using the plasma table, them all 3 are running. Shop is on a separate meter from the house and my electric bill averages about 110 bucks a month and I burn about 1000 gallons of propane heating it every year. Have 2 500 gallon propane bottles in tandem for the shop and backup heat in the house. I heat the house primarily with a bio mass stove burning corn which I get for next to nothing. Wife likes it warm in the house, me, not so much. She fuels the stove, I empty the ashes. The bio mass stove has saved me a fortune in heat costs. Had one for the last 20 years or so. Cats like it too. They all congregate around the front of it where it's always toasty. I take on just enough work to pay the utility bills and have some pocket money. Not gonna get rich but it's my 'man cave' and I like working alone anyway. farm usually breaks about even and I have a very astute accountant who makes sure we never have to pay a dime more than we have to in taxes. If I didn't have the cancer thing hanging over my head, retirement would be grand.


Man you have a nice setup there, I have seen those corn fired stoves always 
wondered about them even thought about trying one. I installed a small 30,000 
btu propane stove in the shop i'm working in now last spring I haven't got to try 
it out other than making sure it worked and then the cold weather was over and 
never needed it any. I like that overhead crane setup you have I actually have a 
space open in my ceiling to the upstairs storage where I am going to put uprights 
and a beam so I can hang my C&M cyclone chain hoist in the overhead and
lower it if I need to pick something with it. I used to run a 175 ton overhead 
crane and several smaller units they are a big help when you need them for sure. 
It was always odd feeling when it took off on the rails when your in the cab hanging
off of it and it would shutter a little until it got moving I'm not a big fan of high places 
so it took a little while to get used to but I did finally at time I would have to pick loads
from about 100 feet below from crane bays going several floors below. I liked the
remote controlled ones best where I stayed on the ground.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Hardest part for me was installing the crane rail (it's a single I beam and the hoist runs on a trolley that fits on the lower flange of the beam. It's an air operated IR roller chain hoist I picked up at a machinery auction. Very expensive to buy new. When I had the building built, I planned on the crane rail so I had the contractor siamese double 2 x 12 headers on each end of the bay. Then I overlaid a 12" wide x 6 foot long piece of 1/2" Hot rolled steel plate with a saddle welded to it (to carry the beam) and I through bolted the plate to the headers at each end. I left the beam float free in the saddles at each end to allow for expansion and contraction. Works very well actually. I can pick up a motorcycle to change the oil and not have to bend over or say a shredder for welding and stand it up and spin it around.

Did all that stuff pre retirement when I had the income to do it. I could never do it now. Way too expensive today.


----------



## ArkansasDave

Anyone have any pointers on installing this top seal on my spindle it says to 
install it spring side up on the top so cup side up. Seems like it would be hard
to do without damaging it. Also says flush or 1/16 above housing. 

thanks
Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

. Carefully press top seal in with spring up. Top seal should be flush with, or to within 1/16" above, the housing.


----------



## FredM

The only reason for installing like that is to stop the ingress of water, I bet the bottom seal is installed with the spring inside?.

I resealed my steering box on the Kubota a few years ago and the sector shaft had a pressure seal fitted to the inside of the housing and a reversed seal with the spring out fitted to the sector shaft and the outside of the housing.

You may have a socket that will fit inside the seal to drive this into the housing, that is before fitting the spindle.


----------



## ArkansasDave

FredM said:


> The only reason for installing like that is to stop the ingress of water, I bet the bottom seal is installed with the spring inside?.
> 
> I resealed my steering box on the Kubota a few years ago and the sector shaft had a pressure seal fitted to the inside of the housing and a reversed seal with the spring out fitted to the sector shaft and the outside of the housing.
> 
> You may have a socket that will fit inside the seal to drive this into the housing, that is before fitting the spindle.


Yes it goes inside on bottom, I thought water was the reason the top was that way like you said. I will see
if I can find a socket the right size. Thanks for the suggestion.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

I'd think that if you keep the cavity (between the bearings) filled with grease and grease it regularly, water should not be an issue anyway.


----------



## ArkansasDave

The seal finally showed up yesterday and I got it put
in today bolted it back up to the deck, got the blade on
and cleaned up the pulley so I can get it repaired and 
back on. 

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

finally got the mower back together after breaking a few bolts in 
the browning bushing and drilling them out and replacing them 
I finally got it all back together and the pto shaft took apart and 
cleaned and reassembled. It's ready to hook up to the tractor 
so tomorrow after work I am planning to hook it up and give it 
a try. Fingers crossed hopefully everything runs smooth.

Dave


----------



## unsquidly

ArkansasDave said:


> Picked up a middle buster today and tried it and the box blade out and was very surprised at how well the tractor
> did it pulled that stuff like a champ and didn't have any problem. I wasn't sure at first if I would keep it or not if it was under
> powered but it had plenty of power for what I'm doing with it. So I have decided to spend some money on it and get it in top
> shape. It is in really good shape now but I want to get it to new condition and keep it that way I have operated several tractors and this is one of my favorites.
> 
> Dave
> View attachment 73711



You are going to love this plow.....I bought one last spring and I have used the hell out of mine. The one thing that I did is buy a very short top link for my 3 point hitch so you can better adjust the plow....If that thing starts digging it will go to China.....LOL....I have had mine buried to the 3 point pins with my big tractor and it was still trying to dig deeper....It is great for trenching for drainage pipe and for ripping new ground....


----------



## unsquidly

SidecarFlip said:


> Wish I could call mine 'toys' but they aren't. Mine are tools to make money with and expensive to boot. I will say those light duty 'middle busters' don't hold up very well, I don't have one, don't need one but I've read many comments about them failing. 5 grand for news tires in reality isn't all that bad. R1 Tire prices all hinge on tire size, the bigger they are, the more they cost. I am curious as to what the 'orange covered pipe' is in your pictures?



I have the exact same middle buster and have used it for two years with no problems at all.....


----------



## SidecarFlip

That would probably last 30 seconds behind one of my 10,000 pound 100 horse tractors. Not nearly stout enough for heavy clay ground up here.


----------



## ArkansasDave

unsquidly said:


> You are going to love this plow.....I bought one last spring and I have used the hell out of mine. The one thing that I did is buy a very short top link for my 3 point hitch so you can better adjust the plow....If that thing starts digging it will go to China.....LOL....I have had mine buried to the 3 point pins with my big tractor and it was still trying to dig deeper....It is great for trenching for drainage pipe and for ripping new ground....


Yeah so far it's been great.

Dave


----------



## ArkansasDave

Well I been hoping for rain and it came today and by 
the time I made it home I couldn't get to the mower
without making a mess of the grass so I will give it
a day or so.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

That is what draft control does on a tractor. You set the depth at which you want and when the implement reaches that depth, the draft linkage keeps it at that depth and no deeper. Cannot do that with position control.


----------



## unsquidly

SidecarFlip said:


> That would probably last 30 seconds behind one of my 10,000 pound 100 horse tractors. Not nearly stout enough for heavy clay ground up here.


Probably so but for this thread it don't matter.....This guy is not pulling it behind a 100 horse tractor he is pulling it behind a 17 horse tractor so it will work fine for him......I have had mine behind a 70 horse tractor in Indiana clay mixed with limestone rocks and it did fine and took no damage....


----------



## unsquidly

SidecarFlip said:


> That is what draft control does on a tractor. You set the depth at which you want and when the implement reaches that depth, the draft linkage keeps it at that depth and no deeper. Cannot do that with position control.



Yes but only if you adjust it......LOL.......


----------



## FredM

unsquidly said:


> Probably so but for this thread it don't matter.....This guy is not pulling it behind a 100 horse tractor he is pulling it behind a 17 horse tractor so it will work fine for him......I have had mine behind a 70 horse tractor in Indiana clay mixed with limestone rocks and it did fine and took no damage....


And I agree unsquidly, who would connect that behind a tractor that it is not designed for, my 24HP would pull that ok if I had the use for it, I have a single ripper that came with the tractor and I hardly use it since buying the box blade.


----------



## SidecarFlip

Something I have 0 use for. Closest I could come to that is digging furrows for planting potatoes and I have a hiller-furrower attachment for my rear tine tiller that does a nice job.


----------



## SidecarFlip

unsquidly said:


> Yes but only if you adjust it......LOL.......


Think I'd change that to KNOW how to adjust it. Not every tractor comes with draft control, most smaller late model ones don't. Draft control is really for tillage implements. One has to understand how to set it up to get it to work correctly, which is why the sensing linkage on the draft control is adjustable. Different conditions require different settings.


----------



## unsquidly

FredM said:


> And I agree unsquidly, who would connect that behind a tractor that it is not designed for, my 24HP would pull that ok if I had the use for it, I have a single ripper that came with the tractor and I hardly use it since buying the box blade.



I don't have and probably would not buy a ripper or subsoiler like some call it but I will say that the middle buster is very handy. I have used it then came back across with my box blade and that works very well also. When you say ripper you are talking about one that has about the same frame but just a single chisel like blade, correct?


----------



## unsquidly

SidecarFlip said:


> Think I'd change that to KNOW how to adjust it. Not every tractor comes with draft control, most smaller late model ones don't. Draft control is really for tillage implements. One has to understand how to set it up to get it to work correctly, which is why the sensing linkage on the draft control is adjustable. Different conditions require different settings.


I didn't say I did not know how to adjust it....What I said is only if you adjust it.....Then the laugh at the end should have been clear to all that I was pointing out a time where I didn't pay as much attention to detail as I should.....


----------



## ArkansasDave

Got the old mower hooked up today and tried it out
to see what would happen and it is quieter but I think
I am going to go ahead and change out the other two 
sets of bearings. It just sounds like something isn't right
the closest thing I can think of to describe it is that it 
sounds like the bearings are running dry with no 
grease metal to metal even though I poured the 
grease to them. So think I'll just order two more 
sets and then I'll know what's in there and hopefully
that will quieten it down.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

B4 you order the new bearings and seals, take at least one apart and have a look see and above all, remove the inner shields (if there are any) from the bearings so grease can actually get in the bearing. Isn't it amazing how your ear gets tuned into odd noises like that? I can listen to my powered implements like my bat wing or my hay bailer or mu disc mower and tell by the sound if all is good or if something isn't 'quite right' and I usually carry a handheld IR thermometer with me to check bearings. If they aren't quite right, they will run hot as a rule.


----------



## ArkansasDave

unsquidly said:


> I don't have and probably would not buy a ripper or subsoiler like some call it but I will say that the middle buster is very handy. I have used it then came back across with my box blade and that works very well also. When you say ripper you are talking about one that has about the same frame but just a single chisel like blade, correct?


Didn't think of that the other day when I was using the ol box blade and rippers 
but I will give it a try next round. Bad part is that my rippers found a cedar stump
under the ground I didn't know was there and now I do it was nice rock free soil
and I kicked it on up to 3rd high and that stump killed the engine and stopped the 
tractor so fast I came off the seat about a foot. 

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Don't even own a box blade, well, I did and sold it. If I need to get below ground there is always at least one mini-ex sitting in the yard.


----------



## FredM

unsquidly said:


> I don't have and probably would not buy a ripper or subsoiler like some call it but I will say that the middle buster is very handy. I have used it then came back across with my box blade and that works very well also. When you say ripper you are talking about one that has about the same frame but just a single chisel like blade, correct?


Yeh!!, that is the one I meant, a fairly solid bugger.


----------



## unsquidly

ArkansasDave said:


> Didn't think of that the other day when I was using the ol box blade and rippers
> but I will give it a try next round. Bad part is that my rippers found a cedar stump
> under the ground I didn't know was there and now I do it was nice rock free soil
> and I kicked it on up to 3rd high and that stump killed the engine and stopped the
> tractor so fast I came off the seat about a foot.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> View attachment 75034



LOL......Try that middle buster... Not quite as fast as a box blade but much more effective I think....


----------



## unsquidly

FredM said:


> Yeh!!, that is the one I meant, a fairly solid bugger.
> 
> 
> View attachment 75036
> View attachment 75037



That is a nice looking solid looking old ripper......Not sure if this one does or not but some of the you can change out the ripper blade to a middle buster and then right back to a ripper.....If I ever buy another one I am going to look for that type.....If I am turning up new ground to either plant or just level it,I spray if with round up or something similar then I use my middle buster then come behind with a few passes with my offset disc then the box blade if it needs leveled more.....Takes some time but works very well...If it is really dry then I will run my arena water setup over it to soften the ground a bit. I have found that this helps also. This spring I made a new 100 by 150 outdoor horse riding arena for the warmer months. I could not spray it since some of the horses were in it so after I hit it with the middle buster and disc, I let it set for a few weeks to give time for the sod to start rotting, then I came back and started with the middle buster and did the whole process over again.. Worked out very well, I just need to add about 50 or 60 tons of sand and turn that under and it should be just about right for barrels, poles, flags, or roping...

This was about the 8th outdoor arena that I have done but only the second one for myself and I think I have just about got the process down pat for Indiana clay and limestone.....LOL


----------



## ArkansasDave

Haven't got to work on the mower any yet I got put
on 7/12.5 hour days and haven't had any time 
off. Hopefully I will be back on it in November.

Dave


----------



## unsquidly

ArkansasDave said:


> Haven't got to work on the mower any yet I got put
> on 7/12.5 hour days and haven't had any time
> off. Hopefully I will be back on it in November.
> 
> Dave



That sucks.....I am sure the money is nice but no fun time at all.....I am glad that my schedule right now has me doing my 50 hours in 4 days...


----------



## ArkansasDave

Well back to normal now so I am about to get back on that mower
I have to order the parts and then hopefully get this thing ready for 
spring time.

Dave


----------



## unsquidly

ArkansasDave said:


> Well back to normal now so I am about to get back on that mower
> I have to order the parts and then hopefully get this thing ready for
> spring time.
> 
> Dave



Nice


----------



## SidecarFlip

unsquidly said:


> That sucks.....I am sure the money is nice but no fun time at all.....I am glad that my schedule right now has me doing my 50 hours in 4 days...


I remember those days myself. Fond memories.


----------



## ArkansasDave

Got those parts on the way and went into town and picked up some grease today
so hopefully I can get started on it soon. I have to work on the ignition switch it 
spins when I try to engage the glow plugs so something is loose but I can hold it
from the back side and get the glow plugs to work.

Dave


----------



## SidecarFlip

Dave... Just buy a new one from a dealer, they aren't very expensive. Probably wonky internally.


----------



## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Dave... Just buy a new one from a dealer, they aren't very expensive. Probably wonky internally.


Got it fixed Flip it was just a loose nut that held it in the dash.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

Got back on the mower two weeks ago and again this weekend the two outer browning bushings came right
off with some penetrating oil and a drift. I plan to press out the shafts from the bearings this weekend and try to reassemble
everything.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave




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## unsquidly

ArkansasDave said:


> Got it fixed Flip it was just a loose nut that held it in the dash.
> 
> Dave



At least it was not a loose nut behind the steering wheel.........LOL


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## ArkansasDave

Got a little more done yesterday on the mower and going to do some more today
here are a few pictures from yesterday. Today I'll press out the spindles hopefully
been doing a little every time I get a minute lots going on around here lately.



Dave


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## SidecarFlip

You sure do a lot of fiddling with that mower deck. Last year didn't you rebuild the spindles?


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> You sure do a lot of fiddling with that mower deck. Last year didn't you rebuild the spindles?


Just the center bearing but it didn't fix it so I am doing the other two

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

Here are a few more pics

Dave


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## ovrszd

Dave, when taking your pics, pull back a little and get more surroundings. If we need to take a closeup look we can zoom in. That way it's easier for the viewers to realize what's going on.

For example.


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## SidecarFlip

I believe on posting p[ictures, you can choose between 'thumbnail' and full sixe. I always choose thumbnail because you can expand it when you view it. I believe the default is thumbnail bit Bill will have to confirm that...

.....Example added. You click on the picture it will go full page


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## SidecarFlip

Time for a new flap disc anyway. That one is petered out. I get mine at Harbor Freight. Much cheaper than the brand name box store ones.


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## ovrszd

SidecarFlip said:


> I believe on posting p[ictures, you can choose between 'thumbnail' and full sixe. I always choose thumbnail because you can expand it when you view it. I believe the default is thumbnail bit Bill will have to confirm that...
> 
> .....Example added. You click on the picture it will go full page


Yep. My comment was in regards to holding the camera too close to the object. Sometimes I need to see the whole project to get perspective.


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## SidecarFlip

I kind of like the farther away shots as I can scope out all the other stuff in the area besides what is in the picture...


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## ovrszd

SidecarFlip said:


> I kind of like the farther away shots as I can scope out all the other stuff in the area besides what is in the picture...


And you can zoom in on whatever you need to see in detail.


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## ArkansasDave

ovrszd said:


> Dave, when taking your pics, pull back a little and get more surroundings. If we need to take a closeup look we can zoom in. That way it's easier for the viewers to realize what's going on.
> 
> For example.
> 
> View attachment 77891
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 77892


I was trying to hide my clutter up shop. LOL I see what your saying.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> I kind of like the farther away shots as I can scope out all the other stuff in the area besides what is in the picture...


exactly LOL I was hiding all my cluttered up work bench. ha ha

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

I did see the corner of your Miller however....


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## ovrszd

ArkansasDave said:


> I was trying to hide my clutter up shop. LOL I see what your saying.
> 
> Dave


Oh yeah, absolutely expect the subject to change and we start talking about what's hanging on the walls!!!! I bring "clutter" to a new level!!!!


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## ArkansasDave

Well I finally got a minute to put the mower back together today and try it out 
so far it works great hooked to my ol Kubota no loud noise but just cutting 
smooth. Thank you guys for all the great help and now I have some more
tractors to play with at work we have a M9000 Kubota, a John Deere 5300 and 
a Ford 3910 we are maintaining and using so I may have some questions.

thanks
Dave


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## SidecarFlip

Anytime you have a question on the M9, just ask. remember, I have a pair of them and I've owned them since 2002. Has to be by far, my favorite tractor, well, next to a 4020 JD. Have all the shop manuals as well.


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## ArkansasDave

I am going to go through the Kubota M9 in the near future and service it for
the work ahead. I picked up Kubota oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter what else should
I get for it Flip? I will grease everything and clean the screen on the radiator. Also 
have a new seat on the way the old one was toast. It just got new tires and I attached
a 300 gallon greenway spray tank. 

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

If it's an open station, I ditched the Kubota seat and shitty suspension and replaced it with a K&M low mount suspension and a Talon Cordura seat with arm rests. The stock Kubota seat is way overpriced and I don't care for vinyl seats anyway, make my butt sweat.

I use Chevron All weather THC Synthetic in my cab unit and Shell Rotella AW hydraulic fluid in the other open station. Both hold just under 15 gallons with a dual filter change. I use Kubota filters, not much more expensive. Rotella T6 in the engines. Chevron is expensive as SUDT. The Rotella is about half of the Chevron. There are 2 air filters, the outer and the inner and I change them both whenever I change air filters. The inner one is cheap got new tires?? They are expensive today. Just paid 5500 bucks to have the one reshoed. Put Trelleborg radials on it. You might want to pick up a replacement water seperator screen and replace that as well. It's inside the clear plastic water separator on the pump side of the engine in front of the spin on fuel filter. Use a large pair of Channel lock's to loosen the aluminum ring on the top, after you give it a shot of PBlaster. They tend to be sticky and replace the red ring inside. That ring tells you if it has collected any water.

Only 2 drain plugs for the motor oil, one on each side of the front propellor shaft and one central drain plug for the transmission, located just in front of the fuel crossover underneath. Be prepared for a lot of oil coming out. I use a repurposed cut aluminum truck fuel tank for a drain pan.

Front axle has 3 drain points and 3 level plugs one in each outboard at the bottom of each and one level plug half way up. I use 85-140 Spirax gear oil in the front axle and the front axle pivot has 2 grease fittings on it. one on the left side and one on the right side and on top of each outboard are grease fittings as well. If it's a hydraulic shuttle or dry clutch, pedal travel is the same, 1.5 inches from the top to where you feel resistance.

When you change the fuel filter, fill the new one with clean diesel before you put it on and then loosen the top of the housing up and pump it until it gets hard to pump and screw it back down. Before you start it, open the thumbwheel on top of the pump and leave it open and when you start it, set it on fast idle for a few minutes. The thumbwheel on the top of the pump will allow and air to escape. Give it a few minutes and tighten it back up and you should be good to go.

How many hours are on it? If it has 1500 or better, it's time for an overhead adjustment and I'd have a dealer do that which is exactly what my dealer is doing to mine right now. Valve adjustment, injector spray test and a dyno run.

www.kuboatbooks.com has the online service manual as well as the addendum for the cab models. The M9's are basically the same as the two smaller ones except for displacement and turbocharging. One shop manual covers all 3. I have the hard bound manual but I keep the PDF on my computer too.

When you clean the rad screen, flush the radiator with a stream of water from the fan side towards the front to clean the fins inside.

I change my coolant every 2 years. There is no drain cock on the rad, you have to loosen the lower rad hose and drain the system that way and I use green glycol conventional coolant, 50-50 in it. I drain then flush with water 2 times, drain and refill and don't forget to rinse and refill the overflow bottle too. Neither of mine use any engine or transmission oil, never have. Only transmission oil I loose is when I exchange couplers on equipment.

That should get your started...lol


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## ArkansasDave

Thanks Flip it is a enclosed cab with a cloth seat I don't even remember the hours 
I'll check and see, tomorrow is a spray day so I will probably run it some. 
thanks

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

ArkansasDave said:


> Thanks Flip it is a enclosed cab with a cloth seat I don't even remember the hours
> I'll check and see, tomorrow is a spray day so I will probably run it some.
> thanks
> 
> Dave


What I did was have my wife make me a seat cover from a full size bath towel. I put it over the seat and used zip ties to secure it, saves the seat material from wear. If it's a cab then it has ac too. What year is it? The later ones have the ac evaporator under the seat, the earlier ones like I have, all the stuff is under the roof. It is has heater and ac vents in the dash, it's an underseat model. If all the vents are in the headliner, then all the stuff is under the roof. If you are gonna install a new seat, and the stuff is under the seat pan, you might as well pull the cover and clean out the heater core and the evaporator while you have the seat out because you need to remove the seat (if it's a newer model) to get to the 'stuff' anyway.

Hours determine the overhead adjustment interval. Kubota recommends 1500 hours. I let my open station go way past that and it really didn't hurt it at all other than it was down on power a bit. Getting the overhead run made a huge difference in power. When Dennis put my open station on the dyno after he adjusted the valves and spray tested the injectors, it made 93 pto. Factory rating is 82. Dennis told me that no two M9's make the same power, all different.

If it has ac, you don't want to even think about doing the valve adjustment yourself. Everything above the valve cover has to be removed, ac compressor, muffler and steering controller and only then can you remove the valve cover which is why I have my dealer do it and it's a 3 valve per cylinder engine so the valve adjustment is kind of involved anyway. Better to have an authorized Kubota dealer do it as it takes a special tool to set the dual valves anyway.

Have a buddy in Georgia with an M9 Cab just like mine, same year about the same hours too. He runs hay with his just like I do but he has a Vermeer round bailer. They don't sell them up here.

Great tractors and will run about forever with proper care.

When you have time, I have some good tips for getting the most out of the climate control, had a lot of time to fiddle with mine and mine will freeze you out, no matter how hot it is outside.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> What I did was have my wife make me a seat cover from a full size bath towel. I put it over the seat and used zip ties to secure it, saves the seat material from wear. If it's a cab then it has ac too. What year is it? The later ones have the ac evaporator under the seat, the earlier ones like I have, all the stuff is under the roof. It is has heater and ac vents in the dash, it's an underseat model. If all the vents are in the headliner, then all the stuff is under the roof. If you are gonna install a new seat, and the stuff is under the seat pan, you might as well pull the cover and clean out the heater core and the evaporator while you have the seat out because you need to remove the seat (if it's a newer model) to get to the 'stuff' anyway.
> 
> Hours determine the overhead adjustment interval. Kubota recommends 1500 hours. I let my open station go way past that and it really didn't hurt it at all other than it was down on power a bit. Getting the overhead run made a huge difference in power. When Dennis put my open station on the dyno after he adjusted the valves and spray tested the injectors, it made 93 pto. Factory rating is 82. Dennis told me that no two M9's make the same power, all different.
> 
> If it has ac, you don't want to even think about doing the valve adjustment yourself. Everything above the valve cover has to be removed, ac compressor, muffler and steering controller and only then can you remove the valve cover which is why I have my dealer do it and it's a 3 valve per cylinder engine so the valve adjustment is kind of involved anyway. Better to have an authorized Kubota dealer do it as it takes a special tool to set the dual valves anyway.
> 
> Have a buddy in Georgia with an M9 Cab just like mine, same year about the same hours too. He runs hay with his just like I do but he has a Vermeer round bailer. They don't sell them up here.
> 
> Great tractors and will run about forever with proper care.
> 
> When you have time, I have some good tips for getting the most out of the climate control, had a lot of time to fiddle with mine and mine will freeze you out, no matter how hot it is outside.


It is a 2002 I think, I looked today and it has 1,961 hours and of course the battery was down I slow charged it and it lasted about 2 weeks but I seen sparks down by the starter the other day when one of the guys cranked it over so I think i'll clean all the connections and recharge the battery it is only about a year old but has sat all winter except for a little spreader duty. I am pretty sure all the vents are overhead. I'll check it out closer tomorrow but if it is under the seat I'll definitely clean the evaporator and heater core.
Looks like I need a valve adjustment because it 's just over the 1500, yes we have the vermeer
dealers here also but I didn't realize they were only available in various areas. I like the sound
of that cold A/C especially in those 100+ degree Arkansas summer days.

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

ArkansasDave said:


> It is a 2002 I think, I looked today and it has 1,961 hours and of course the battery was down I slow charged it and it lasted about 2 weeks but I seen sparks down by the starter the other day when one of the guys cranked it over so I think i'll clean all the connections and recharge the battery it is only about a year old but has sat all winter except for a little spreader duty. I am pretty sure all the vents are overhead. I'll check it out closer tomorrow but if it is under the seat I'll definitely clean the evaporator and heater core.
> Looks like I need a valve adjustment because it 's just over the 1500, yes we have the vermeer
> dealers here also but I didn't realize they were only available in various areas. I like the sound
> of that cold A/C especially in those 100+ degree Arkansas summer days.
> 
> Dave


02 is the same as mine so no climate control vents in the dash? Means everything is under the cab lid and the intake filter is in the roof on the left side and probably needs cleaned (blown out). Filters are about 20 bucks but it's a Kubota only part, you cannot cross it. I presume it's a 'Hydraulic Shuttle' as well (If it is, it will say so on the side of the hood), if not it's a synchro shuttle with a dry clutch. Hydraulic shuttle's have no clutch at all. If there is no owners manual (on the back of the OEM seat there is a manual pouch), you can download the Owners manual and the shop manual on www.kubotabooks.com. The cab supplement is also there. Is the selling dealer nearby or a Kubota dealer at all? Kubota recommend a valve adjustment at 1500 hours. I bet it's low on refrigerant and unless you have the ac tools, I'd recommend having a dealer service and recharge it and do a valve adjustment. I do my own but I have all the tools, vacuum pump, manifold gages and fittings necessary. Sounds like the battery connections need cleaned as well as the starter connections. Probably needs a fluid change (hydraulic fluid) front axle fluid (if it's front wheel assist) and motor oil change too. I use either Rotella AW hydraulic fluid or Chevron All Weather THC synthetic in mine (the 02 gets the Chevron) and the 04 gets the Rotella which is much less expensive. Yours holds just under 15 gallons with the filter (it has 2 transmission filters located on the right side behind the right rear wheel). * I take it, it's not yours but belongs to someone else?* My suggestion is download the shop manual and the cab supplement and if you cannot find the cab supplement, I can email you a copy of that.

Like I said before, valve adjustments on the cab models are quite involved why I recommend a Kubota dealer does that. Takes special tools and removal of components like the steering controller and ac compressor as well as the muffler to gain access to the valve cover to adjust them and the dual intake valves run with a bridge so it requires a special tool to set the clearances.


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## ArkansasDave

I'll look on the clutch it has the lever on the left then the shift on the upper right, the dealer
is about 5 miles away. I'll check I think the manuals are there, it is a 2 wheel drive yes it belongs
to the place I work and was bought new I remember when we got it and driving it back then. I had
been on a different projects and haven't been around it in about 3 years so I am trying to get it in
shape not sure what maintenance has been done on it lately. Thanks for all the information I will
call the dealer and see if they can send a guy over or if I have to take it in. 

thanks
Dave


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## SidecarFlip

ArkansasDave said:


> I'll look on the clutch it has the lever on the left then the shift on the upper right, the dealer
> is about 5 miles away. I'll check I think the manuals are there, it is a 2 wheel drive yes it belongs
> to the place I work and was bought new I remember when we got it and driving it back then. I had
> been on a different projects and haven't been around it in about 3 years so I am trying to get it in
> shape not sure what maintenance has been done on it lately. Thanks for all the information I will
> call the dealer and see if they can send a guy over or if I have to take it in.
> 
> thanks
> Dave


5 miles you can drive it, they run about 22 mph at rated rpm. 2 wheel drive eliminates a lot of the front end mechanical stuff I have to deal with but the front axle pivot still eill have 2 grease fittings on it, one on the left side and one on the right side and there is an adjustment bolt on the front. You loosen the jam nut and with the weight off the front end (raised off the ground), you turn the bolt in until it's snug and back it off 1/4 turn and lock it with the jam nut. It's important to grease the pivot as it runs in bronze bushings and requires grease.

If it says 'Hydraulic Shuttle' on the side of the hood, that is what it is. If it don't it has a dry clutch and it's a synchro shuttle. Both have the directional lever (forward and reverse) on the left side of the steering column but one is a dry clutch, one is hydraulic wet pack clutch, which I prefer. Both operate the same way and if the range selector on the left side next to the seat has 3 positions, it has creep gears. If 2 positions, then it's just 4 in high and 4 in low range. You don't ever need to clutch it (wet or dry) to change directions but you do need to clutch it to change the main gears. Only 1st gear is synchromesh, the other 3 aren't so you have to double clutch to go up in the gears. I never use the clutch to change gears, I just match the input shaft speed to the gearbox and it slips into gear but that takes practice to do. It's like a big truck where you float the gears.


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## ArkansasDave

I did verify it has a/c vents in the overhead and I cleaned the battery connections
and put the battery on the charger for a slow charge. I forgot to look for the books
it was a busy day but tomorrow is shop day since it is supposed to rain and I should
have more time to look. I did get the 3910 fired off this morning but I have to get
a fuel filter for it and drain the tank and sediment bowl it was not getting much fuel
so I'll have to bleed everything out. 

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

The 3910 should bleed just like the M9 does, same pump just one cylinder shorter. Drain the sediment bowl and make sure the brass strainer is clean and the red ring is in place and refill it with clean diesel and secure it with the big aluminum nut and open the thumbwheel on the top of the pump and start it (if you change the fuel filter (I presume it has one, fill it with clean diesel too). Open the thumbwheel and start it and run at fast idle for about 5 minutes with the thumbwheel open and then close it and you should be good to go. If I were you, I'd make an appointment with the Kubota dealer and have him run the overhead and pop test the injectors. Like I said before, it's a 3 valve engine so it takes a specialized tool to set the valve pair to the correct clearance. Exactly what Dennis is doing to mine today actually. He called me this afternoon to give me a hard time. Taking him and his wife to dinner, least I can do, he treats me really good. In fact all of them do including the owner. Once my ankle heals up 100%, I'll be working there part time. Will get me out of the house. Don't much care about the money, I'm not poor. Just will be a diversion mostly. Besides, I get to play with new Kubota's....  

I had a mouse house under the hood that he pointed out to me. I was embarrassed and dealing with that issue presently. Got a bucket trap for the big barn and another in the shop. I dare not use mouse bait because if any of my wife's cats eat a dead mouse and die, I'll be sleeping in the barn with the tractors. Don't like cats but they came with the marriage 38 years ago...and multiplied. When I met Amy, she had one. We have about 40 now. 10 house cats, the rest barn cats and none of them are mousers. I've learned to live with them. Least I have my dog. He's an Australian Shepherd. Good pup. Push button. Great companion. Glad he likes cats. He don't have much choice. Neither do I.


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## SidecarFlip

If you are going to let it sit a lot, I suggest getting a bottle of Powerservice BioKleen algacide and using it in the fuel tank. I add it to my bulk tank. it's not cheap, like 35 bucks a bottle at Tractor Supply or Rural King but a bottle goes a long way. You only need a capfull in the tank. Stuff stinks but it kills any algae and keeps it from growing. Like I said, I use it all the time. I went through the algae thing with my diesel pickup and it's not pretty and it's expensive to fix. My pickup is parked all winter so it has a good chance of growing algae in the fuel tank. I found out the hard and expensive way so I figure 35 bucks is cheap insurance.


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## ArkansasDave

Yeah I found a fuel filter by the sediment bowl it was a CAV 296 I think and am 
pretty sure was the original. I found a replacement at Advance Auto by Carquest
which would be Wix so I will pick one up. Our local Ford/New Holland dealer just
closed up shop so now we just have Kubota, John Deere and Cat in town. And now
that I think about it all of the independent tractor shops have closed. Probably would
be a good place to open a tractor shop since everyone I know owns a tractor. I am 
hoping to get to take the Kubota in soon and I'm jealous about the Kubota job that 
would be like a hobby instead of work for me I enjoy working on stuff. I do get to 
do some of that at my job. 

Dave


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## SidecarFlip

ArkansasDave said:


> Yeah I found a fuel filter by the sediment bowl it was a CAV 296 I think and am
> pretty sure was the original. I found a replacement at Advance Auto by Carquest
> which would be Wix so I will pick one up. Our local Ford/New Holland dealer just
> closed up shop so now we just have Kubota, John Deere and Cat in town. And now
> that I think about it all of the independent tractor shops have closed. Probably would
> be a good place to open a tractor shop since everyone I know owns a tractor. I am
> hoping to get to take the Kubota in soon and I'm jealous about the Kubota job that
> would be like a hobby instead of work for me I enjoy working on stuff. I do get to
> do some of that at my job.
> 
> Dave


Keep in mind that I'm probably old enough to be your father....lol If it was original, one, it would be painted the same color as the engine (grey-green) and 2, it would be a Kubota branded filter. I would, if I were you, get a OEM Kubota filter and if the brass mesh screen in the sediment bowl cannot be cleaned in solvent, replace that too. It's imperative the fuel is properly filtered before the pump. The Bosch style pumps on Kubota's are very sensitive to dirt in the fuel. 

Been dealing with my dealer for over 25 years now and the owner and my wife are involved in the county fair stuff (board of directors) so we all know each other personally and same deal with Dennis, the head mechanic at the shop. Dennis and I belong to the same Sportsman's club and we shoot league together. After 25 years you get to know the people you deal with on a personal level.. I get treated like family there and I respond in kind with them. The owner and I are about the same age. Dennis is a bit younger. They all farm just like I do too.


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## ArkansasDave

SidecarFlip said:


> Keep in mind that I'm probably old enough to be your father....lol If it was original, one, it would be painted the same color as the engine (grey-green) and 2, it would be a Kubota branded filter. I would, if I were you, get a OEM Kubota filter and if the brass mesh screen in the sediment bowl cannot be cleaned in solvent, replace that too. It's imperative the fuel is properly filtered before the pump. The Bosch style pumps on Kubota's are very sensitive to dirt in the fuel.
> 
> Been dealing with my dealer for over 25 years now and the owner and my wife are involved in the county fair stuff (board of directors) so we all know each other personally and same deal with Dennis, the head mechanic at the shop. Dennis and I belong to the same Sportsman's club and we shoot league together. After 25 years you get to know the people you deal with on a personal level.. I get treated like family there and I respond in kind with them. The owner and I are about the same age. Dennis is a bit younger. They all farm just like I do too.


I don't know Flip i'm older than you think but maybe. I was meaning the 
Ford had the filter and I don't remember anyone ever changing it. We
got it new in '90 it is an 89 model and we got the Kubota years later 
in about 2001 and the JD in 2015. I picked up a Kubota fuel, air and oil filter the other day
and some Kubota oil from the dealer. We have several folk at our dealers and parts store
we deal with that are like family also one guy at the Napa used to be my tire man for 30 
years and now he works for NAPA after an injury from lifting tires for so long. Another has
been selling me parts since he was out of high school and now he is pushing 40. Another 
lady I bought parts from in the 80's and she has sold parts since out of school and they all
work at NAPA now and treat me well so I buy as much from them as I can. I would buy 
company parts there but the new owner canceled our company account for some reason
when he took over so I had an Advance Auto parts account and a Crowe Burlingame account
so we use those. I do plan to try and get the other reactivated if possible. I didn't get to work 
on the Kubota today like planned we had an emergency job come up and we had to tend to 
that until 7:30 p.m. today but got our part done so 3 day weekend fingers crossed.

Dave


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## ArkansasDave

Well we put the Kubota back to work mowing this week, I pulled the sprayer off last week and 
we hooked the Woods 15 foot bat wing up to it. Good thing we did that because yesterday the other
JD with the frontier 15 footer snapped the drive line where it's welded to the female spline. Finally located
one at 1000 plus should be here tomorrow so hopefully we will have two going again.

Dave


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