# "new" 901 won't start!



## DanielWilson (Feb 2, 2009)

I ran the thing a few evenings ago, then stalled her trying to back into the garage. Couldn't start her back up. Thought it was just hot.

So today I:
1. Removed all 4 plugs and turned if over a few times to clear any water that may have gone down the exhaust pipe.
2. Put the plugs back in, and cranked. Cranks fine, but won't fire.
3. Pulled spark plugs 1 at a time and checked spark while my son cranked it. Noted that 1 & 4 were carbon-fouled and 2&3 were wet with fuel. Spark seems weak. 
4. Cranked some more. Tried choking, not choking throttle at idle (like it started for the guy from whom I bought it and for me the other night) and at WOT.
5. Pulled plugs again and dried 2&3 and scraped the carbon off of 1&4.
6. Cranked some more.

With a plug out, there's a definite fuel smell puffing out of cylinders 2&3. The plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, and coil all look almost new.

What should I try to get her going?

Thanks!


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## SHARTEL (Feb 11, 2009)

Hi Daniel, 

Do you think the points have moved sufficiently to stay open or close to soon? 

Bringing the tractor to TDC by rotating the fan/belt with the plugs removed and the key on, rotate the engine passed TDC and it should show a nice, crisp arc. If not then the points-vacuum plate might have a dead ground...or a bad condencer.

If #2 and #3 are the first holes directly below the intake manifold then it's typical that they get wet first when the tractor doesn' t fire

Don't ya' hate it when stuff like that happens? I mean just get her home and she starts messin' with ya'.

It really doesn't sound like anything too critical and I hope it's an easy fix.

SHARTEL


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## DanielWilson (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks for the reply, Shartel.

but maybe I'm more confused than I thought. Aren't points & condenser used on systems that do NOT have a rotary distributor and coil?

As far as rotation to TDC ... how do I know when it's at TDC? Should there be marks on the crankshaft pulley? I might have to remove the radiator to see those ... not sure.

Read this at http://home.earthlink.net/~8ntractor/ignition.html

"If you leave the ignition on to use the lights with the engine off it can fry the coil."

I may have left the ignition on with the engine off after the stall. Would a fried coil produce a weak spark? Or no spark?

Reading http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?p=594578 , I suspected a wiring problem getting power to the coil. So I put my battery charger on the coil terminals and cranked again w/ a plug out. This time I got no spark -- which confuses me further.


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## SHARTEL (Feb 11, 2009)

Daniel, 

According to my sources and this attached link the 900 Fords uses a typical/normal breaker point ignition:

http://home.att.net/~jmsmith45/oftspecs.htm

This link indicates you have a point gap of .024" - .026". 

If you are using the OEM square coil - they have the tendency to burn out rapidly when lights or electrical equipment is left on with the ignition key switched to the "ON" position and left the tractor parked and forgotten.

Applying your battery charger directly to the coil probably either cooked a ballast resistor if your tractor is so equipped OR fried the coil....


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## DanielWilson (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks, good link. That shows I need to close up the gap on the spark plugs.

with a new coil, I'm getting nice big sparks! Of course, it's darker now, so the sparks show more anyway.

The coil does say "no external resistor required". Would that address the ballast resistor?

OK, where should I look for the points? 

I should have my shop manual before next Saturday ...

Thanks for the help!


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## DanielWilson (Feb 2, 2009)

Oh, yeah, I said I was getting a big spark.

I still have a problem ... the thing won't start.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

How old is the gas in the fuel tank? Bad gas can cause it to never start. 

Try removing the air filter and spraying a wiff of ether or better yet spray some WD-40 into the carb while the engine is cranking. If you are getting spark and compression, it should fire. 

You HAVE verified good compression? I would think at least 60 psi or more would be enough to fire up and run good.


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## firemen122 (Feb 17, 2009)

I have a 901 powermaster been in the famiily since 1970. Check your points...... The distributor shaft will surely have wear and slop like mine and she will just not start the next time... Mine is notorious for burning the points. then i steal the wifes fingernail files.. also the condensor has been known to cause this


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## SHARTEL (Feb 11, 2009)

Hey Fireman, 

Thanks for verification that the model actually does have points! I went scurrying about looking for something to be sure I hadn't given the wrong information in my above posts.

Welcome to TF and We'd love to see pics of your Powermaster!

SHARTEL


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## DanielWilson (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks, guys!

Turns out mine is a 1955 model 960 ... I should have believed what was painted on it instead of what the previous owner said.

I have ordered both the shop manual and the master parts book ... so hopefully will be able to locate the points soon.

Fireman, you say you take the wife's nail file ... and then you clean up the points with it? And what does distributor slop have to do with points? Sorry for dumb questions ... these engines aren't just like the '77 truck engines I used to work on ... and I'm out of my league.


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## DanielWilson (Feb 2, 2009)

Got a book on restoring tractors from the library last night ... learned that the points should be in the base of the distributor.

My shop manual should be coming soon & I'll tear into the thing. Will also check the air filter and replace the gas with new.

Thanks for all the ideas!


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## firemen122 (Feb 17, 2009)

Daniel
Pull you dist. cap off, then pull off rotor button be careful there is a little spring between it and the shaft. Then remove plastic cover under there is points and condenser. On dist. shaft is a square shaped piece that one side of the points ride on. this is what breaks the connection and sends fire. where the points break connection they get burnt. Most of the time you can take your wifes fingernail file and clean the surface where they touch. when there is slop in the dist. shaft bearings it will throw the points out of adjustment. the points have to open up while the motor turns over as the points ride over the square shape on the shaft. Points will burn and get out of adjustment from use also it is normal. Hope this helps...


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## al b (Feb 6, 2009)

I have a Willys that would do that. It needs a carb rebuild .The problem is the float not stopping the gas form coming in. What I did was take the plugs out, get a propane torch and heat them up/burn any gas fumes that was on them then Id wire brush them.I'd put the flame in the plug hole to burn the gases that are in the cylinder. If a cylinder was flooded it will burn it clean. Sometimes I might get a little fire coming from the hole but thats OK, I'd light the torch back up and do the rest of them. Put the plugs back in and it would usually fire up unless I flooded it again. then I do it again. Eventually I would get it going. I do that to any gas engine that I think is flooded. 

Try burning the plugs and cylinders then eliminate the gas,(close the petcock,drain the bowl, see if the gas is clean), and then see if it will start with WD-40 like Chief said and see what happens.

Distributor slop makes the timing jump all over the place. The parts are worn and the distributor is sloppy making it spark early or late. 

Have you checked the compression?

To check the timing you need to check the points gap and find a mark either on the flywheel or the front damper. I think tractors have it on the flywheel. You probably have to remove an inspection cover. And cars have it on the damper but I don't know about your tractor. Once you find that mark you will need to take the valve cover off and plugs. Turn the engine until #1 cylinder is coming up and both valves are closed, I have used a stick rod or a piece of plastic rod some times with a flashlight you can see thou the spark-plug hole the piston coming up. That is your compression stroke. When the mark on the flywheel or damper lineup with the other mark or inspection hole the points should start to open. Or at least be close. If it is close loosen the points base just enough so you can pry it with a screwdriver and move it untill it starts to open. A test light or voltmeter comes in really handy to check when it opens. Tighten the points base, put back the rotor and cap, plugs and wires. Check the valve gap while you have the cover off.


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## firemen122 (Feb 17, 2009)

Daniel
I missed your post about having good fire. Then your carb could have trash in it. forget my post about the points. Have you removed fuel line at carb and checked fuel flow? Ours used to have screen in the tank above the fuel shutoff, had to remove years ago due to fuel blockage. How old are the plugs? I would start at the tank and work to the carb. You can pop the carb off quick and tear apart and clean...


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## DanielWilson (Feb 2, 2009)

Thanks for all the help, guys. Turned out to be simpler than I made it.

It needs:
1. A fully charged battery. I've tightened up the alternator belt as that was rather loose & could contribute to a batter drain. And I'm putting the charger on it overnight after use.
2. If it's cold ... say less than 35 degrees ... it needs a shot of ether.

With that, she's doing fine.

Again, thanks for the ideas!


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