# What's the best way to get an In-line gas filter installed?



## springsrick (May 27, 2004)

It looks to me like the gase line feeding the strainer at the carb is 1/4inch flared steel the OD of the threads on the packing nt on the tubing reads about .436 inched.

NAPA parts man tells me that all Ford lines are %/16" and GM are 3/8" so none of the filters that fit them will screw into my strainer elbow.

I have a spare inline off my 69 BRonco that "almost fits" --it doesn't like but it doesn't seem to drive home clean and snug either.

I'm trying to deal with a gas thank that sat dry on the prarrie for 10 years and is now shedding very fine rust and other debris.

Thanks for the help!


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Can you bring the gas tank to a radiator repair shop and have it boiled out? Then coat the inside with a gas tank sealer. I would do this first and then add an in line filter. Another thing that might help but I'm not sure if it applies to your type of tank, if you have a fuel shutoff valve that screws into the bottom of the tank and connects to the fuel line, there should be a filter screen on it inside the tank. Otherwise, why not use a tubing cutter and remove enough of the steel line to add an inline filter and two short pieces of rubber gas line and two clamps. If it's not a fuel injected system under high pressure, the hoses and clamps will work fine.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

I have a hard line that comes off the bottom of the glass bowl feul straner on the left lower part of the tank. The line wraps under the tank and down towards the carb just like the OE line did. On the part going down to the carb, it is cut with a inline filter, connected by rubber hoses, spliced in. Seems to work fine for me.


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## Ken N Tx (Sep 20, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Ingersoll444 _
> *I have a hard line that comes off the bottom of the glass bowl feul straner on the left lower part of the tank. The line wraps under the tank and down towards the carb just like the OE line did. On the part going down to the carb, it is cut with a inline filter, connected by rubber hoses, spliced in. Seems to work fine for me. *


I was reading some past posts, and noticed that you have an inline filter..

This is not recommended as the fuel system is gravity fed..

Also noticed that your line is connected with rubber hoses, did you notice how close this is to the HOT manifold?? Just my observations..Ken

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v41/Kenntx/tractors/N%20Tractors/FUELLINE.jpg">


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

I know from working on a few engines, that sometimes a filter cut in on a gravity feed system does not always allow for a good flow of fuel......usually all a gravity type system has is a small screen or mesh strainer in the fuel tank sump. What I found out is the filter will work for a period of time and then seemto gum up or restrict flow, and I have a feeling it is just the filter media getting swollen or saturated with moisture etc and its often enough to restrict proper fuel flow. I had one engine drive me bonkers, as it seemed to be going through a lot of filters yet the fuel tank was clean......removed inline filter and it never shut off or ost power until I cut the throttle..Inline filter was the problem..so so much for my thinking I would add an improvement to it.....

You can get a product called Kreem at most motor cycle shops that is used to clean rusty tanks and also coat the insides of the tank with a coating and it will also stop up minor leaks and seeps.

I have a few B&S engines with the 1 gal tank and updraft type carb. I usually pull the small 1 quart tanks and vacuflow type carbs off them and install a float type carb and 1 gal tank so I can have more run time between fuel tank fills.........Since I scrounge up all of these tanks and carbs, most have been setting arund for years and are quite rusty inside and some even get the common cracks at the two bolt holes at the top bracket mount that seep gas. A dose of Kreme has always returned the tanks to serviceable condition free of rust and no leaks.Beats payaing $50 some bucks for a new tank.

If you go the inline filter route the hose clamps and hose spices will work fine. You should be able to find an adapter at a major auto parts supply house to work. Don;t forget, there are numerous types of threads commonly found on fitting like these.YOu can have NPT, of the male or female variety, then have threads that are made to work only with a flare nut, which will be larger than what NPT sizes will be size for size, and then fittings that are compression may well have still different thread pitch......A lot of carbs and pumps utilize even different thread pitches as well and some can even take the flare end of a fitting to make em work (without the nut of course)
I think your NAPA dealer is mainly looking at automotive apps, he needs to get into the small engine or agriculture / industiral engine section of his parts books......IMHO a good quality glas bowl strainer, and shutoff valve combo would be best.....less restriction from filter media, able to visually see inside, and ability to shut off fuel if need be.....
Oh and they do make what is called a reverse flare fitting, which is evidently what your carb takes, and these are also readily available........


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## bear (Oct 20, 2003)

what i do if there is no screen where the fuel comes out of the tank is add a 2-3 inch peice of copper line to the sediment bowl so you are not drawing fuel and all the rust particles off the bottom of the tank


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Thanks Ken.


On mine it is not that close to the manafold. It is only rubber way down near the carb. I will probably get red of it as soon as I get around to cleaning the tank out though.


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## rasputen (Nov 26, 2004)

You can clean your gas tank with a dog chain & lots of agitation.
I did this a year or so ago. I used a kit from POR15. 

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=316

The kit came with several components, 1 to wash & use with agitation, 1 to etch the remaining rust (phosphoric acid) & the final treatment to line the tank.

I have 2 tractors so I tied the tank to the other tractor wheel & agitated the hell out of it, then turned the tank 90 degres & agitated again. The longer you agitate the better it works.
I ended up with my 8N on the tractor lift running for a few hours total.

I also have made a temporary gas tank while doing this so you could use the tractor the tank came from if you (GASP!) only have ONE tractor. *<80)>----rasputen
HTH


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Thanks for the info. I have used the Por15 stuff before and have always been happy. I am lucky in that there is not realy rust, just gunk from years of neglect. Got some other stuff on the more imporant list, then I am goinng to attact that.


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