# Restarting IH 300



## vaw (Nov 6, 2011)

Howdie all, 

So like any newbie, I have been looking for a tractor and found an IH 300 (not TA). I love it! Its awesome and I look great in red. Looks like this one changed hands a few times and the last time it has been shed'd for about 4-5 years. Not currently running but that doesn't scare me too much as I've grown up around old cars and such and this is gas right? The flashlight inspection shows no rust except on the rims which didn't rust through. Grease and dirt cover all the major places you would expect giving me the impression that this was well oiled when active. I cannot say as much for the poor poor bushhog that has seen better days. Back to the tractor (and here is where I need your guidance), What are the special tractor things that would trip someone up while re-oiling and testing the engine (with out actually firing it back up)? 

Sincerely, 

Veronica angel


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

I'd pull the plugs, and spray a bunch of fogging oil into the cylinders and let it soak overnight. Then crank it over for 20-30 seconds with the plugs out to help lubricate and loosen the rings and pistons. Change the oil and filter, crank it over again to re-prime the oil pump and lubricate the upper end of the engine before installing new plugs and starting it. You may need to replace the distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires if it has been sitting due to corrosion on the terminals and lugs, and the points may need to be cleaned/filed for the same reason. You can examine these parts before just buying new, as they may not have corroded, but from my experience with my 350 Utility, they start hard if there is any corrosion on the ignition parts. I converted my 350 to an electronic ignition to eliminate the points because I got sick of cleaning and replacing them in spring after winter storage.

If you want to see how good the engine is, I'd buy a compression tester and test each cylinder. Should be fairly even between the four cylinders and around 100-120 PSI in each. If one or more cylinders tests much lower than the rest, you may have stuck rings, bad valves, bad head gasket, or a cracked head/block. That would require more in-depth testing to determine.


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## vaw (Nov 6, 2011)

Thanks Country Boy!

Pulled the plugs and the valve cover. The inside was a lot cleaner than I expected! Oiled the cylinders and head with marvel mystery oil and then gave it a turn later. YOU WERE NOT KIDDING ABOUT THE ELEC... The first battery connection was good but then I kept having to screw with the connections to get it to turn more while I was looking for spark. Of course there is no spark yet either. The pistons moved pretty cleanly but you're right, without that compression tester I don't quite know how well the compression holds. Tonight I get out the sand paper, feeler gauges and wire brush to see about cleaning the points back up. I picked up some electrical connection sealer so maybe that will help but who knows, I put stock in elbow grease, not autoparts snakeoil.


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## vaw (Nov 6, 2011)

Damn... total set back... I think in the process of getting this up and running the starter up and died on me... I hear the click but nothing else. Going to test it tomorrow. fun fun fun!


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## vaw (Nov 6, 2011)

vaw said:


> Damn... total set back... I think in the process of getting this up and running the starter up and died on me... I hear the click but nothing else. Going to test it tomorrow. fun fun fun!


It would prob help that in the process of putting the battery in and out I remember the (+) is ground. I had it wired backwards. :cpu:


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## vaw (Nov 6, 2011)

I put the starter back in and then hooked it up. More trouble, the wiring is old and cracked. Somewhere in the thing I have a short because while the ignition key was off, I still had a completed circuit between battery posts. I pulled out the MM and tested connectivity through the starter relay and that tested good. Next up is to pull the dash off and get at that ignition switch and the amp meter on the dash. Charlotte the tractor is playing hard to get! I have to admit, this is kinda fun tho.


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

How did you check for a complete circuit between the radiator posts? You SHOULD read battery voltage from positive to negative post, no matter what position the switch it in.
To check for a short, disconnect the positive terminal and connect an ammeter between it and the post.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

If your 300 is anything like our 350 (and everyone else's 350 that I know) the starter may just be jammed. They were notorious to jam in the ring gear and not be able to crank the engine. Our 350 has gone through several starters and they all act the same, so its not the starter that's at fault. I personally think that IH rushed the production on the 300 and 350 to compete with someone and didn't get the geometry of the bell housing quite right. On our 350, when the starter jams, you have to loosen the bolts and give it a wiggle to get the gears unmeshed and the starter drive back into its normal resting position. Its such a pain because it happens suddenly and without warning, so you could be using the tractor half the summer and one time you hop on and only get a click when you hit the starter button. It usually happens on the farthest corner of the farm when you can afford the time the least.  We carry a 9/16" wrench in the tool box just for those occasions. :argh:


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