# ford 3000, power steering problem



## dave1shere

I am having a problem getting my power steering to work. Disassembled it to change out the oil seals top and bottom because of the leaking seal on the top. I found that my steering shaft was worn out at the top at the seal area, so I bought a new steering shaft, because of this I had to disassemble the entire steering. I have everything put back together, but I cannot get the power steering to work. I have a shop manual, and I reassembled everything according to the manual. My only question is the steering hydraulic spool has several plungers and check valves. I have tried every configuration I could, I first put it back the way the book shows. Still no power steering so I tried swapping the check valves with the plungers. Still no power steering. I have plenty of pressure from the power steering Pump, so I'm not worried about the filter being clogged or anything like that. Does anyone know if the check valves in the spool have little ball bearings in them. Well that's it for now, any help would be appreciated. I am at my wits end and Haven't been able to resolve this problem.


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## sixbales

Compliments of *ultradogMN*

Have a look at the photo.
Set your block so the fitting is on your right side. That's the starboard side for you land lubbers. See the yellow pencil.
There are two types of plungers in the block.
I call them the special plungers and the plain plungers.
Notice the green pencil. That is the hole where the two special plungers and two balls go.
All the rest of the holes get two plain plungers with a spring in the middle.

Additional clarification from ultradogMN:

If you set the block onto the steering column just like it sits in the picture you could load it from the top.
On the 3 holes with the plain plungers you would load the bottom plunger, then a spring, then the second plunger.
The special plungers have 'horns' on one end.
So you would load that hole with the first plunger horns up, then the two balls, then the second plunger horns down. There is no spring in that hole.
One other thing I should mention; The spool in the center of the valve does have a top and a bottom. On the inside of the spool there is a slight groove machined on one end. That end goes DOWN.


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## sixbales

Regarding plumbing of your power steering system:

Your power steering valve has two connection ports for the PS cylinders on each side. An UPPER/FWD and a LOWER/AFT connection.

Your cylinders should have two connections facing up. An INSIDE and an OUTSIDE connection. 

The UPPER/FWD conn on the PS valve connects to the INSIDE conn of respective cylinders.

The LOWER/AFT conn on the PS valve connects to the OUTSIDE conn of respective cylinders.

Use a 7/16" Flare Nut Wrench on these connectors (to avoid rounding off the nuts).

The tubes have DOUBLE FLARE Connections. Sometimes they develop cracks/leaks, and have to be re-done. Buy a kit and do these yourself, as a shop charges too much. Kits are about $40 

Hope this all makes sense to you. Let me know if you have problems.


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## cyclone30

mr sixbales...any idea- after doing all of this, what could cause power steering fluid to pour out of the Gear Adapter housing Vent? I am positive everything is put back together as you directed. I cant for the life of me figure out why all of this fluid is going in there?


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## cyclone30

I am working on a '77 ford 3600 power steering unit. I replaced a broken Gear Adapter Assembly, and of course when taking apart the valve assembly I wasn't prepared for the valves, balls and springs to fall out.. that's how I came across this thread.. after putting everything back together I now have fluid coming out of the vent,, what could cause this to happen? the only thing that I am not sure of or if it could be the culprit, is how to correctly tighten the control valve pre-load? any ideas?? the new Gear Adapter Assembly came with a new seal already installed.


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## sixbales

Is the fluid coming out of the steering column? Give us a clue where fluid is coming from.
Use attached diagram to describe where the fluid is venting.

My manual says to use a new locknut, and to tighten locknut so all end play is removed, then loosen 1/6 turn and stake nut to locating slot in steering shaft (using a hammer and punch). My manual has a photo illustrating this procedure.

Seal #28 in the bottom of the steering column is to be installed "lips down" towards the control valve.

Seal #7 in the top of the adapter assembly is supposed to be installed "lips up" (towards the control valve). 

I suspect that you have a seal backwards.

Or maybe incorrect seal. Seal #28 P/N E1NN3N632AA. Seal #7 P/N 86531349.

Or maybe a damaged seal.

Hope this all makes sense to you. Look at the bright side - You will be an expert on this subject when you get it all done.


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## cyclone30

fluid is coming out of housing vent valve assy #11


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## cyclone30

seal #7 was already installed in part #5 when I purchased it . I will double check to make sure lip on seal is up.... without a doubt fluid is getting past this seal, it appears to be forced out by the heavy constant flow out of the vent... to answer previous question, NO fluid leaks out of the steering column, ONLY getting past seal #7... I bought #5 directly from Ford.


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## cyclone30

sorry about this,, Ford gave me a parts diagram and parts list,, the diagram looks to be the same as the one you provided but the #s are different. omit my previous numbers.. i will start over using your part numbers. again sorry I didn't catch this sooner.

Fluid is coming out of housing adapter vent #18.

the seal #14 was already installed in part #12 when I purchased it. I will double check to make sure lip is facing up... without a doubt fluid is getting past this seal, it appears to be forced out by the heavy constant flow coming out of the vent... to answer previous question, NO fluid leaks out of the steering column, ONLY getting past the lower seal #14... I bought #12 directly from Ford..


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## sixbales

Your Ford dealer gave you a parts diagram for a Ford 3000. The diagram I gave you above was for a 3600. See attached diagram for a 3000, to get everyone on the same page, regarding changes. The part numbers we are talking about are the same.

Let us know how you make out. 

One tip for the future. DO NOT use the steering wheel to pull yourself up onto the tractor. The steering column is not designed for lateral loading imposed when guys pull themselves up onto the tractor. You can damage seal #28 in the bottom of the steering column, or possibly break adapter assembly #5?? 

I have trained myself to avoid using the steering wheel to pull myself up onto the tractor. The last time I was into this steering assembly was 20+ years ago. I guarantee this practice works.


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## cyclone30

Here is what happened, the said 3600 was being loaded onto a trailer, everything was working just as it should until the guy driving the tractor got the right side front tire against the side of the trailer and tried steering away from the side of the trailer. that is how the part #12 got broke. the wheel against the trailer couldn't turn thus all the hydraulic pressure snapped all three of the mounting "ears" right off of part#12... this is how I came into the picture,, I was told to fix it. so I went to Ford, ordered what parts I thought it needed,,then I went thru the details above,,, all in all with your help in looking for the non-obvious- the new part#12 came with needle bearing and seal already in place from the factory... Guess what?? they put the seal #14 in upside down allowing fluid to go right past it.. this job was just completed about an hour ago, works perfect.. you were a great help in figuring this out.. I cant thank you enough for getting me on line,, I never would have second guessed the factory on this one.. thanks again-- very well explained,, hats off!!!


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## columbogid

*Ford 3000 control valve*



sixbales said:


> Regarding plumbing of your power steering system:
> 
> Your power steering valve has two connection ports for the PS cylinders on each side. An UPPER and a LOWER connection.
> 
> Your cylinders should have two connections facing up. An INSIDE and an OUTSIDE connection.
> 
> The UPPER conn on the PS valve connects to the INSIDE conn of respective cylinders.
> 
> The LOWER conn on the PS valve connects to the OUTSIDE conn of respective cylinders.
> 
> Use a 7/16" Flare Nut Wrench on these connectors (to avoid rounding off the nuts).
> 
> The tubes have DOUBLE FLARE Connections. Sometimes they develop cracks/leaks, and have to be re-done. Buy a kit and do these yourself, as a shop charges too much. Kits are about $40
> 
> Hope this all makes sense to you. Let me know if you have problems.


I purchased Ford 3000 1966 model at auction. The power steering did not work. I purchased new pump and was not problem. I seen post on control valve and took apart and cleaned and polished all parts. I assembled back according to picture posted, which was a great help. When I started the power steering went all the way to one side and locked and is not bypassing any oil. The unit seems to be building pressure and pulling down engine at idle. Do you think the check valves are sticking in control valve yet. Let me know what you think. Thanks


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## sixbales

Howdy columbogid,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

First thing you need to do is check your plumbing. Jack up and support the front axle for ease of manual steering. Disconnect the PS cylinder rods on both sides and support/tie them loosely with baling twine on the radius rods so the cylinder rods can extend and retract freely. 

Start the engine and steer right. The right hand cylinder rod should extend and the left one should retract. Steer left and the opposite should occur. If not happening, double-check your connections between your control and cylinders.


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## jethrox

i realized this is an OLD thread, but i'm working on my steering control valve now and was looking at the comments here about assemlby. sixbales said "One other thing I should mention; The spool in the center of the valve does have a top and a bottom. On the inside of the spool there is a slight groove machined on one end. That end goes up." are you positive about that? the manual says the groove goes down. mine isn't working right so i'm thinking about trying your way to see if it's better?


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## sixbales

Hello Jethrox,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.

The grooved end of the center sleeve goes *DOWN*. My manual indicates the same thing.

Apparently this is not a fatal flaw in the procedure, as many guys have used this old procedure with success.


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## columbogid

sixbales said:


> Howdy columbogid,
> 
> Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum.
> 
> First thing you need to do is check your plumbing. Jack up and support the front axle for ease of manual steering. Disconnect the PS cylinder rods on both sides and support/tie them loosely with baling twine on the radius rods so the cylinder rods can extend and retract freely.
> 
> Start the engine and steer right. The right hand cylinder rod should extend and the left one should retract. Steer left and the opposite should occur. If not happening, double-check your connections between your control and cylinders.



We did have the lines crossed at the control valve. We reversed and the power steering is working great. Thanks for the help.


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## rdukes725

My recently purchased Ford 3000 has a steering problem that has cut my butt. It will turn sharp right when you crank it and the steering locks up. Reversed the lines to the steering cylinders and it turned sharply to the left and locked up. When the engine is not running, you can turn wheels.
Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated


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## sixbales

Jack up and support the front axle for ease of manual steering. Disconnect the PS cylinder rods on both sides and support/tie them loosely with baling twine on the radius rods so the cylinder rods can extend and retract freely. 

Start the engine and steer right. The right hand cylinder rod should extend and the left one should retract. Steer left and the opposite should occur. If not happening, double-check your connections between your control and cylinders.


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## Wuneyedjack

*Ford 3600 steering seal replacement*

Hello, I'm new to this forum, understand this is a 3 year old thread but exactly what I'm looking for so hopefully somebody's still here. I have a 1976 Ford 3600 that leaks from the PS valve body. A year ago, when we bought it, it leaked out the top of the steering column, and we had a dealer repair. Now it leasks out the base of the column, and having learned here that there are seals top and bottom, I think the bottom one is now the culprit. My two questions are: What is the best way, and steps, to access this assembly. My extracted Ford manual says remove the fuel tank and then remove the entire steering gear assembly from the trans housing, andd take it apart from the bottom up. Hoping that if only to replace seal 7 in the diagram, less disassembly may be needed. Besides the seals (7, 28) and associated O rings (26) what should be replaced at the same time? Machine was working fine before the leak.

Thanks..great forum


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## sixbales

Howdy Wuneyedjack,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum. For convenience, I attached a Ford parts diagram of your power steering column. Please confirm this is the same setup as your's. 

If your bottom seal (#7) is leaking, fluid should be coming out of the housing vent (#11). Please confirm exactly where the fluid is leaking from. 

Most guys work down from the top for seal replacement, rather than pull the entire assembly out. Disconnect the battery, pull the hood, disconnect the wiring harness forward of the fuel tank and disconnect the safety start switch wires, disconnect the proofmeter cable at the front connection, pull the steering wheel off, remove the sheet metal surrounding the steering gearbox. Disconnect the throttle linkage and remove the rear hood panel. Pull the outer steering column, pull the control valve (don't lose any parts - plungers, springs, 2 balls). Change the bottom seal and reassemble with new upper seal (#28) and O-rings (#26). Install new locknut on steering shaft - tighten to remove all slack and then back off 1/6 turn and stake locknut to shaft. The shaft needs freedom to move up/down a bit.

Use your manual to fill in any blank spots. It's been so long ago that I did this job that I don't remember everything.

To pull the steering wheel off, remove the center nut, spray shaft with some penetrating oil, let it soak, and pull with moderate force on the wheel with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock. Rock side to side while pulling. If that doesn't work, try hands at 6 and 12 o'clock and rock fore and aft while pulling. If it doesn't come, let's talk about it.


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## Wuneyedjack

Thanks, Sixbales. Little problem confirming anything right now, the tractor lives in the mountains about 350 miles from here, when it started to hemorrhage ps fluid, I got it to a dark, dirt floored pole barn and shut it down. When I go back next week, I'll limp it down the hill to my luxury shop w/hard floor, dry roof and a 120V outlet and apply what I've learned here to get a better notion of what to do next. Leak was definitely coming from beneath all the sheet metal below the steering wheel, onto the trans cover and my shoes. Which specific hole it comes from in the works will be the next thing to verify. I'll probably go silent here for a while (no internet up there) while I commune with this thing for a while and hopefully harvest a deer concurrently (the reason for having the tractor, the barn, the shed, the place, etc.) Thanks again.


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## Ol' Metal Guy

sixbales said:


> Howdy Wuneyedjack,
> 
> Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Tractor Forum. For convenience, I attached a Ford parts diagram of your power steering column. Please confirm this is the same setup as your's.
> 
> If your bottom seal (#7) is leaking, fluid should be coming out of the housing vent (#11). Please confirm exactly where the fluid is leaking from.
> 
> Most guys work down from the top for seal replacement, rather than pull the entire assembly out. Disconnect the battery, pull the hood, disconnect the wiring harness forward of the fuel tank and disconnect the safety start switch wires, disconnect the proofmeter cable at the front connection, pull the steering wheel off, remove the sheet metal surrounding the steering gearbox. Disconnect the throttle linkage and remove the rear hood panel. Pull the outer steering column, pull the control valve (don't lose any parts - plungers, springs, 2 balls). Change the bottom seal and reassemble with new upper seal (#28) and O-rings (#26). Install new locknut on steering shaft - tighten to remove all slack and then back off 1/6 turn and stake locknut to shaft. The shaft needs freedom to move up/down a bit.
> 
> Use your manual to fill in any blank spots. It's been so long ago that I did this job that I don't remember everything.
> 
> To pull the steering wheel off, remove the center nut, spray shaft with some penetrating oil, let it soak, and pull with moderate force on the wheel with hands at 3 and 9 o'clock. Rock side to side while pulling. If that doesn't work, try hands at 6 and 12 o'clock and rock fore and aft while pulling. If it doesn't come, let's talk about it.


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## Ol' Metal Guy

1st... Thanks for this Forum! 
I purchased a Ford 3000 last fall that didn't run. I got it running and even mowed a little with it and everything seemed ok. This spring I started it up and discovered the right power assist ram had ruptured from water getting in the system and freezing. I removed the ram, welded it up, drained the PS fluid and back in business. I thought... after using to mow several hours, PS fluid began pouring out the top of the steering column under the steering wheel. (Is this coincidental? I didn't install a new PS filter, (although there was probably still some water in the system), but everything seemed good before the upper seal developed a major hemorrhage problem. I have gotten it torn down enough to expose the base of the steering column etc. Not the easiest design to work on. I'm sure I am guilty of using the steering wheel to help pull myself up on the tractor but wondering if it causes a gradual leak or if it just opens up like a flood like mine did? I'm hoping to not have this problem again!

PS. Some pics of the tearing-down and re-assembling to replace the seal would really be helpful. 
Thanks for any tips, advise, suggestions, etc. welcomed.


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## Ultradog

The leakage under the steering wheel is caused by a failure in the upper - #35 in the diagram. The leak is coincidental to whatever else is going on with your steering.
MARK OR TAG THE LINES THAT GO TO YOUR STEERING CYLINDERS.
Then pull the top of the column, pull the hydraulic block to clean and inspect it.
There are a bunch of plungers, springs and balls that will want to fall out of the bottom of the block as you lift it off the column so pay attention.
You will want to replace your lower seal as well. #14. Also replace 2 (two) orings #33.
Your local New Holland dealer will likely have them in stock or they can order them.
Inspect the upper seal area on the shaft for wear, pits, rust or damage. If area is bad install a speedi sleeve.
There is a special procedure to tightening and "staking" the large nut in there.
Best if you purchase a repair manual and read it. I use the I&T FO-31 manual.
www.yesterdaystractors.com/FO31_13242.htm
About $30 from most any tractor retailer and darned well worth the money.
I always disassemble the entire steering box, clean and flush the lower end, replace the sector shaft seals -#59 and refill.
I replace the fill plug on the side if the lower case with a grease zerk and pump in 2 tubes of John Deere Cornhead grease. It is a semi liquid (00 double ought) grease that performs as well or better than 90W oil and wont leak out so bad.
If you wish you can PM me your phone # and the best time to call.
I've been into many of those ps boxes and will be glad to talk you through it.
Those 3000/3600 Fords are just the BEST old tractors.


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## MANNY PEREZ

extra fix for leak under steering is to remove steering, if possible remove the bushing and seal on top of shaft and replace it and then just go to lowe's and get yourself a rubber washer, 1/8" thick from the specialty washer drawers part number 0823676955 made by HILLMAN 3/4 x 2-1/4 x 1/8 and place it on top of the bushing, then use a 5/8 inch steel washer made by HILLMAN also part number 823670512, 5/8" and place on top of the rubber washer, put grease in between the two and under steering wheel hub also. Tighten wheel and i believe the problem of leaking will be solved. I did change the lower seal on the bottom of the steering tube called the upper steering wheel seal, small one just in case. I will be doing this tomorrow Oct. 15, 2019 and will let you know if the leak has been fixed. I believe the compressed rubber washer will tighten up against the shaft and against the top of the bushing and will stop any leaking even if the lower one at the bottom should be bad. less than 4 bucks for both parts and no 11 dollar shipping. Try it !


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## MANNY PEREZ

place the rubber washer between part # 36 the new bushing seal and part # 65 which is the new metal washer free of rust and smooth. Many have replaced both upper bushing with rubber on top of tube of steering wheel and the upper seal at the bottom of the tube and it still leaks. If you put the rubber washer in between washer and seal it will compress around steering shaft tightly and compress on top of the bushing seal that already compresses against top edge of tube. It has to stop the leak even if bushing is not replaced.


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## Dave Carter

Thanks for some great information. I have a 2000 diesel that I rebuilt engine on. I moved the power steering over from my old gas 3000. This past summer I had a guy adjust my 3-point lift and repair my leaking steering. Doing some hard work recently (a lot of lock to lock turns) my steering locked up. Using the loader to lift the front end, the manual still works, I have just lost power steering. My FO-31 manual says to use caution with holding full lock because it may damage the pump. My question is, how do I tell if the problem is my pump or the control block?
Is it possible that the "staked" jam nut has come loose?
If the pump fails, what is the failure point? This is the later pump w/reservoir.
I think that the theory of operation is fairly simple - The pump delivers a fairly constant flow of fluid at a range of pressure. The steering shaft turns the control block spool to direct the pressure flow to one side cylinder while relieving the pressure on the other side.


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