# fuel shut off problem?



## gman51 (Mar 22, 2016)

I have a 2002 New Holland TC-18 boomer tractor that acted like it was running out of fuel so I shut it off. I had mowed maybe 1.2 hour when I got caught in another rain burst. The tractor sat in the rain idling for maybe 20 minutes then I went and mowed another half hour and was pretty much done when it acted like it was out of fuel. I thought the tank shouldn't have been empty because I haven't used it much with all this rain. The fuel gauge is defective and so I usually fill it up when I am done mowing. This time I doubt it took maybe 2.5 gallons to fill up, so again I think what the heck is wrong here.
I tried starting it and finally bled itself and it kept running after a few times starting it. I then mowed maybe 10 minutes before it quit again. Again acting like it ran our of fuel.
I removed the fuel bowl filter and it was full of fuel. I opened the valve with the bowl and filter off. The fuel moved really slow so I tapped on the filter base and it cleared out and fuel then ran out good. I put the filter in and bowl back on.
I cranked the engine and barely would try to catch fuel and run so I loosed a fuel line at the #1 injector and it started to spit fuel and I tightened it back down. Still no start and I loosed it again and the fuel spitting even quit. I opened two other injector lines and they were dry.
The more I cranked on it the less it would even try to fire till it acted like the fuel was cut off. I cycled the switch and heard the shut off solenoid clicking sounding like it is working. I have run this tractor out of fuel a couple times and it never was this hard to bleed out the lines. Usually if I shut it off soon as I hear it try to stumble then I didn't even have to crack injector lines to get it to bleed out. Not this time. It acts like the fuel cut off isn't opening. I removed two injector lines at the pump and there is fuel there but it isn't moving when I crank the engine over.
I am guessing the problem is the fuel shut off solenoid is not opening even though it is clicking. How in the heck do I get the shut off solenoid off the injection pump? There isn't much room being almost up against the engine block and I am not seeing a place to get a wrench on it either. Of course the darn tractor is sitting on water soaked ground next to my pond and it will be a pita getting it out of there. Would have to drop the shredder mower before trying to winch it out of there.
Come on guys I need HELP.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I would go back to fuel supply first, and worry about the solenoid later. If it clicks on and off with the key, it's probably okay. The fuel supply hose from the tank should be the one entering the filter base from the top. Remove it from the base and see what the flow looks like. If it's any less than a full stream, then remove the fuel cap and blow back into the line for a second and see what changes. If you can't get a good flow at this point, then find a length of similar size hose, drop it into the filler opening, and try to get as close to the bottom as possible. Draw a siphon on the line and as soon as you get flow, stuff it onto the filter base. If tank flow/supply is part(or all) of your problem, then this should get you going and allow you to move it to higher ground.


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## gman51 (Mar 22, 2016)

When I loosen the filter bowl nut the fuel starts flowing over the bowl so I am sure I have good enough fuel flow. The bowl is totally filled with fuel.
My other concern is whether the pump drive has sheared so the pump isn't turning anymore. Like I said when I removed the injector line at the pump I can see fuel laying in the pump barrel. When I crank the engine I am not even seeing the fuel bubbling there. Like the pump might not even be turning.
I am going to remove the supply line to the top of the pump where the shut off solenoid is to see if I have good fuel flow there. If I do then this problem especially with hearing the solenoid clicking could be bad news. When it was running the engine temp was well within range and the engine was making no noises. The oil probably doesn't have 20 hours on it and it is clean on the full mark.
Oh I am getting bad thoughts about this. Expensive thoughts. I know I might be getting the cart before the horse but this isn't looking good at all. 
I guess I need see a service manual on the pump and how it is driven. As well as how to remove the solenoid.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

See item #32 on attached diagram. Looks like it has a serrated section to grip, probably a special tool, but a vice grip should get it. Just be gentle so you don't deform the body. 

Most of these solenoids have a hex section to fit a wrench on.


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## gman51 (Mar 22, 2016)

Well I have good fuel flow at inlet on top of the pump at the shut off solenoid. If it isn't the fuel solenoid not actually opening the flow then this is not good at all. It seems the injection pump actually drops into a housing that is part of the engine block and the injection it must run off an accessory camshaft which is driven off the crankshaft gearing.
I know on Macks these accessary shaft gears do fail and then the shaft doesn't turn. Since I am not seeing the fuel in the one injector not even bubbling it makes me suspect this might be the case. I guess I need find out how to tell if this is what has happened or if I am even correct about how the injection pump is driven. I guess I need see a break down of the engine to see if I am right about a accessary shaft drive.
I taped on the solenoid while cranking but it didn't change anything. I know on old Cummins engines there was a bypass screw to turn to eliminate the solenoid but I don't think this injection pump has that feature.
Looks like I need some experienced tractor mechanic advice on this one. Anyone like that here?
I have seen an engine parts diagram and the pump does run off the camshaft which is turned by gears in the front cover.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

The fuel stop solenoid can be removed with a pair of channel locks. You can test it by applying 12 volts to the spade and grounding the coil. At this point the metal stem should retract. This is all the solenoid does. With rod extended, the pump rack is in no fuel delivery position. With rod retracted, the rack goes to max delivery position. With the solenoid removed, you should be able to reach a finger into the exposed hole, feel the end of the rack, and push it forward with just a bit of effort. The rack is spring loaded to the rear, and should move with very little effort. If all this looks/feels correct, and still no fuel is being delivered, then maybe you will need to pull the pump for more investigation.


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## gman51 (Mar 22, 2016)

Appreciate the help and I will check it out. I do believe it is a problem with the fuel rack or the solenoid. If the cam wasn't turning I believe I would be hearing other noises from parts hitting each other.
I see the solenoid is knurled for getting hold of it. After looking close it appears to perhaps not be so difficult getting it out.
Thanks again for the help and I will update as soon as I get new findings.


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## gman51 (Mar 22, 2016)

Well I found out what my problem was. I removed the shut off and the rail rod was working fine. I cracked the lines and got it to start. Then it quit after idling about 5 minutes. I removed the fuel filter bowl and it was almost empty. I removed the fuel line from the tank down to the petcock on the fuel bowl and wasn't getting squat for fuel flow. In fact it wasn't even dripping.
I used my air compressor and blew back through the fuel line into the tank and "wah Lah" the fuel was flowing solid stream now. Hooked it back up and made sure I had fuel flowing at the top fuel pump inlet. It bled really quick and "vroom" it was running good.
I sure am glad it wasn't a bad pump or even the shut off solenoid. Thanks everyone for the help.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I hope you realize that you got it running, but really haven't "fixed" it. Whatever that was in the line will be back. It's not a matter of if, but when.


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## gman51 (Mar 22, 2016)

Actually I did fix the problem since the problem was a blocked fuel line or fitting. I agree it most likely will happen again which is why I plan on removing the fuel tank to clean it out and replace the fuel sending unit. I have to much on my plate right now to mess with it now.
This makes two tractors with tank fuel fittings clogged up. My Cub had the same problem.


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## gman51 (Mar 22, 2016)

update: I was going to mow and the engine sounded like it has a miss fire. When I was mowing I noticed the engine bogging down like it never did before.
I took it back to the garage and while it was running I cracked open each injector line one at a time. # 1 cylinder the engine had big noticeable performance difference. #2 Made no difference at all.#3 was same as #1 in making big difference. 
So even though #2 injector is getting plenty of fuel to it is evidently not functioning. The question now is whether it is the injector bad or is the pump not supplying enough fuel pressure for the injector to pop? I am guessing the injectors are pop injectors so it could be the pump is bad rather than the injector.
Any suggestions how to diagnose which is the bad part? Also what do I have to remove to get the injector out?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Injector service is a lot cheaper than a pump rebuild. If it happens the injector is plugged, you risk breaking the pump shaft.


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