# Post hole digger adjustment



## jweslock (10 mo ago)

Hi All,

I’m new here and new to pto post hole digging. I have a problem after connecting the digger. I purchased a used digger and I can’t seem to get the auger vertical when raised. It is on an angle out at the bottom. After some research I don’t know if my shaft is to long or there is a way to adjust the head to get the auger vertical. Please help.


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum. You will find that when digging holes the boom pole for the auger will swing down in an arc, being that the gear box / auger attachment point will be closer to the tractor in the raised position than it will be in the lowered position. It takes a little practice to get a hole straight down. 
I usually place the tip of my auger right on the mark where I want the hole, and then move the tractor slightly forward to plumb the auger. Works for me!


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

The weight of the PTO shaft causes the drive head to lean out as you say, do as Bill says by placing the point on the mark and adjust the vertical with the tractor.


----------



## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

You may also need to extend/adjust your top link some if you're working outside of the arch of the augers pivot swing. But as noted you may also need to move tractor to keep the auger plumb. B


----------



## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

If he has a Danuser style digger such as this, there will be no top link adjustment.


----------



## jweslock (10 mo ago)

I think you have the solution. The auger sits on approx 30 degree angle out at the bottom. If I start digging the hole goes side ways 30 degrees. By the time I get it far enough in the ground 1foot or so the surface is a mess. If I use the top link on the harness ( currently in the center hole, which way should I go, out towards the auger or towards the tractor by one hole at a time. TIA. Jim


----------



## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

I would suspect you want to extend..that will likely move the bit closer to the tractor. A picture of what you're working with or brand/model would be helpful. B.


----------



## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

jweslock said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I’m new here and new to pto post hole digging. I have a problem after connecting the digger. I purchased a used digger and I can’t seem to get the auger vertical when raised. It is on an angle out at the bottom. After some research I don’t know if my shaft is to long or there is a way to adjust the head to get the auger vertical. Please help.


The 3PT has two vertical drop arms that connect to the lower horizontal arms. On one of those vertical drop arms is an adjustment to lengthen or shorten. This controls how every implement remains level once hooked up to the tractor. When I use my box blade, I place the level across the back and adjust. Then switching over to the brush mower, I have to do the same leveling again. Both require finer tuning due to the weight, size and how things tend to lean.


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Exactly bmaverick! The conversation, I was thinking, has been about the auger pointing to or away from the tractor. Never thought that the lift arms were out of whack creating a slant side to side! 

I try to keep my leveling arms level to the tractor, plant the point of the auger where the hole goes, and then pull ahead slightly to get the auger straight and steer the tractor a little left or right to get the auger plumb side to side. Make your moves in small increments.


----------



## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

And if you are OCD you may have to move slightly after digging a foot or so..... Stating for a friend.......


----------



## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

If you are really OCD, add a positioning arm to the gearbox and have a buddy align the digger with the hole before you start to dig.

I have one hanging in a tree for sale. Don't use it anymore, I have a Shaver post pounder. It even drives railroad ties. Maybe someday, someone will stop by and ask me about it.

Nice thing about a post pounder is there is no hole, no backfill and the post is instantly solid. Bad thing is, they are expensive and require a pretty substantial tractor with good hydraulic flow to run one. I see you can get them with a pto pump now, something I don't need.


----------



## jweslock (10 mo ago)

BinVa said:


> I would suspect you want to extend..that will likely move the bit closer to the tractor. A picture of what you're working with or brand/model would be helpful. B.


Hi there. Sorry about not posting a pic earlier. Still in the dead of winter. Here is the issue. Can it be simply an adjustment or does the shaft need shortening


BinVa said:


> I would suspect you want to extend..that will likely move the bit closer to the tractor. A picture of what you're working with or brand/model would be helpful. B.


----------



## Cvans (Sep 7, 2008)

I'd say your PTO shaft is too long and it's pushing out on your digger. That should be an easy fix.


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Wow, that does stick out!
I agree with Cvans, that PTO shaft looks to be mismatched to that auger. Most augers that I am familiar with have a telescope PTO drive shaft.


----------



## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

+ 3. Shaft needs a hacksaw treatment. You know the proper way to shorten it to the correct length????

If you leave it like that and attempt to use it, you'll destroy the stub shaft seal on the tractor and possible destroy the internal gearing as well. PTO's are not designed for parallel loading so pushing on it will result in failure of the pto.

The other ting you need to do is lose that hardware store bolt you are using as a shear bolt and replace it with a correct length shear bolt in grade 2.


----------



## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

Is the PTO shaft completely collapsed in the pic?


----------



## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

As noted PTO shaft is too long. i would only add that…you should disconnect the PTO shaft and raise auger to operating start height, assure auger is Vertical, if necessary use a sting from the PTO stub to the gearbox to assure there are no pinch point for shaft and no further adjustment is necessary to the auger frame, before cutting the PTO shaft. B.


----------



## jweslock (10 mo ago)

SidecarFlip said:


> + 3. Shaft needs a hacksaw treatment. You know the proper way to shorten it to the correct length????
> 
> If you leave it like that and attempt to use it, you'll destroy the stub shaft seal on the tractor and possible destroy the internal gearing as well. PTO's are not designed for parallel loading so pushing on it will result in failure of the pto.
> 
> The other ting you need to do is lose that hardware store bolt you are using as a shear bolt and replace it with a correct length shear bolt in grade 2.


Thanks for the insight. I figured it needed shortening. I have not used it as I didn’t want to damage it. I will get the proper shear bolt. As to the full collapse of the shaft, it’s been under snow for many months. I recall the outer shaft is one piece from gear head to pto I figure it’s going to be seized collapsed so that will be my first challenge once I get the shaft out to cut it. I have watched a number of videos on measuring and feel confident right sizing it once apart. Any tips to avoiding a catastrophe and doing it right.


----------



## jweslock (10 mo ago)

BinVa said:


> As noted PTO shaft is too long. i would only add that…you should disconnect the PTO shaft and raise auger to operating start height, assure auger is Vertical, if necessary use a sting from the PTO stub to the gearbox to assure there are no pinch point for shaft and no further adjustment is necessary to the auger frame, before cutting the PTO shaft. B.


Will do.


----------



## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

BTW thank you for posting the pics….makes a big difference when trying to trouble shoot and diagnose from afar… B


----------



## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

One thing that people tend to overlook and that is, the sliding sections of the shaft must be lubricated regularly so they do slide easily. Most all pto shafts I have on my equipment have their own grease zerks installed to grease the sliding sections with access in the outer covers to do that but at any rate, zerks or not, they need to be greased.


----------



## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

Make sure the shaft is functioning properly, slides in/out to it's minimum length before you cut on it. PTO shafts on augers need a LOT of length movement to allow for the elevation changes.

You'll be sick if you cut this shaft and it falls apart the first time you raise the auger all the way....


----------



## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

jweslock said:


> Will do.


Under the snow is where this awesome tool was located.  

Once the weather breaks, you need the tool to sit on the goal post. Makes storage, on/off tractor a breeze!


----------



## BinVa (Sep 21, 2020)

Are you trying to build a better mouse trap? I can just picture a body part under that hange r


----------



## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Welded an eye on the arm and I hang mine in a tree at 3 PH height.


----------



## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

SidecarFlip said:


> Welded an eye on the arm and I hang mine in a tree at 3 PH height.


Don't even need an eye, just throw a chain around it.


----------



## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

ovrszd said:


> Don't even need an eye, just throw a chain around it.


Chains are meant for other things... I haven't used it in years.


----------



## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

The drive shaft should be telescoping as mentioned….if it is you need to free it up and check how much room it has to extend and retract as mentioned. The shaft on my shredder has no grease zert so I have to pull it out yearly, clean old grease and slick it down again. As they extend and retract the grease gets funky with dirt an can stick em.

Long story short…every auger I’ve dealt with will free swing and stay perpendicular to ground like a plumb bob…so much so it’s tuff to get a straight hole unless your accomplished at working clutch, brake and 3 pt at same time while looking backwards.

the gin pole mentioned is more for the guy on the ground to provide some down force to the bit as there’s no down pressure other than gravity weight of auger. At least the auger poles I’ve hung from as they don’t change the angle of the auger dangle.


----------



## jweslock (10 mo ago)

ovrszd said:


> Make sure the shaft is functioning properly, slides in/out to it's minimum length before you cut on it. PTO shafts on augers need a LOT of length movement to allow for the elevation changes.
> 
> You'll be sick if you cut this shaft and it falls apart the first time you raise the auger all the way....



This is a good question. I have attached a pic of the outer and inner shaft casing. Is it likely the shaft should move in closer with the remaining 12-14" of inner shield not collapsed? I wonder if the shaft is ceased and won't close past the point shown. Insight?


----------



## jweslock (10 mo ago)

TX MX5200 said:


> The drive shaft should be telescoping as mentioned….if it is you need to free it up and check how much room it has to extend and retract as mentioned. The shaft on my shredder has no grease zert so I have to pull it out yearly, clean old grease and slick it down again. As they extend and retract the grease gets funky with dirt an can stick em.
> 
> Long story short…every auger I’ve dealt with will free swing and stay perpendicular to ground like a plumb bob…so much so it’s tuff to get a straight hole unless your accomplished at working clutch, brake and 3 pt at same time while looking backwards.
> 
> the gin pole mentioned is more for the guy on the ground to provide some down force to the bit as there’s no down pressure other than gravity weight of auger. At least the auger poles I’ve hung from as they don’t change the angle of the auger dangle.


TX how do you recommend pulling apart the two shafts?


----------



## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

jweslock said:


> TX how do you recommend pulling apart the two shafts?


I just pull on the end of shaft and it will extend…you should be able to pull it all the way out. Mine is a square rod the fits into the female end of the shaft that stays attached to shredder.

If stuck you may try some PB Blaster on end of shaft as that could be gunned up with old dirty grease.


----------



## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

A common problem with PTO shafts collapsing all the way is the male, solid portion, is twisted because of overload.

In the case of this particular PTO shaft, I'd remove it from the tractor and pull it apart. Then you can hold the tractor end alongside the auger end and know whether it's collapsing all the way or not. Hard to tell from your picture.


----------

