# Sharpening a chainsaw chain



## stevewel (May 26, 2012)

How often or after about how much run time do you usually need to sharpen a chain saw chain? Any rule of thumb?


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## MBTRAC (May 28, 2012)

As a very rough rule of thumb - wherever possible, you're always far better hand sharpening a chain more frequently to preserve the edge than letting it go to the stage it's producing dust rather than chips when cutting (dust is the quickiest indicator a chain needs sharpening or the depth gauges need setting) -With hand file sharpening a chain in ideal condition there'll be no more than 2-3 one way file passess required to sharpen each cutting tooth.

For chainsaw's the frequency of sharpening will depend upon:-
- The type of wood (e.g. hardwood is usually more severe on chains than softwood, though palms take their toll)
- The condition the wood (deadwood is lot harder on chains, burnt wood from bushfires is worse & any rotted/termited wood will dull chains in a flash)
- Has the chain been overheated previously , is it completely blunt & are the cutting angles correct or need to be reset/reprofiled?
- How long, what's the profile & pitch is the chain: e.g. an 18" .325 semi chisel, generally needs more sharpening than the 36" 3/8" Tungsten full chisel chains I also run.. 
- Around every 3rd chain sharpen the depth guages/rakes will need resetting to maximise the chains performance
- If I'm sharpening the chain, I'll also be flipping the bar & maybe dressing or resetting the rails, greasing the nose sprocket & lubricating the needle bearing on the drive sprocket, & every c.6hrs running the spark arrestor will need cleaning 
- Are we using a hand file, chain grinder or dremel to sharpen? A hand file is always a better option to produce a sharper edge & make the chain last
- The type of sharpening jig/guide you are using (varying accuracy is achieved from a simple roller jig to something with far greater accuracy like the Timberline..) 

Also be certain to adjust the bar oil flow to maxi. ( to make the chain & your sharpening last), use specific bar oil (it has very tacky viscosity to adhere to the chain) & only cut at full rev's, & lastly only sharpen a chain when it's cool.

We own/operate many saws on our farms, & with 35yr+ professional rural chainsaw use & logging experience .....a sharp chain & a patient safe operator who plans their cuts (& path of retreat) will make up for most limitations when using a chainsaw (including those of environment/saw brands/models/size).


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## farmertim (Dec 1, 2010)

MB I couldnt have said it better, i tend to use a hand file, with a couple or three strokes each tooth and then it is good for a while, it alos depends on what sort of wood your cutting to what edge you should be using generally the harder it is the shallowe the angle i have found.

a lot of it comes from feel too you should never be smoking up the teeth!
Cheers:cheers:


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## MBTRAC (May 28, 2012)

Thanks F/Tim -This thread was a little bit "prophetic" - been doing some fencing today which included clearing off the fencelines 8x fallen c.70'+ trees with the little Husky 455 18" .325 I had with me, so back in the workshop & sharpening the 4 chains now.........


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I like to give my saw chain a touch up every time I fuel up and add chain oil. Don't tighten your chain if it's hot, cause when it cools, it'll put undue stress on the sprocket and bearings. I also use a gauge to touch up the rake on the chain, take too much off and you could experience kickback.
I'm new to saws as well, past couple of years. I got some good information from Tim and MB, thanks!


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## Larry in OK (Jul 22, 2010)

Run time depends on how long it takes me to find a rock.


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## farmertim (Dec 1, 2010)

Larry in OK said:


> Run time depends on how long it takes me to find a rock.


Ain't that the truth.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

When the curls chips no longer and notice chain pulling no longer,couple file slides on each tooth until burr's gone does the trick


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## Rusty (Jun 15, 2011)

Thanks for this post guys some very usefull info here I hadn't considered before


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

Most woods, I get 2-3 tanks of gas out of a 'sharpening'. If I hit dirt or other debris, I may touch it up after one tank.
If the chips get smaller, you're just wasting gas and time. Fix it then.
If you see smoke from the bar, find another hobby/ occupation!!!

I carry a medium sized vise bolted to a 2x6 in the truck and drill holes in golf balls to drive my files into. Gives me something to hold onto that does not hurt my hand and something to clamp to the tailgate or bumper to hold the saw.
I also always carry 2 saws when I go out, plus a small sledge and 2 wedges in case the saw gets 'stuck'.
When 'felling' a large tree, I carry a BIG hammer and wedge, so I can put that puppy where I want it.

Hope this helps..


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## Mickey (Aug 14, 2010)

Since moving I don't have much of a need for my chainsaw but. For me, using a machine for sharpening the chain is the way to go. Much quicker and much better results. Even a cheap sharpener can do a more than adequate job.

I've got one of the cheap HF models. Did a little tweaking to tighten up some of the fittings. It's more than adequate for my needs.

http://www.harborfreight.com/electric-chain-saw-sharpener-68221.html


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## 2billt (Aug 7, 2011)

Like my knife, I can feel when it needs either touched up or sharpened.
I live in the NW and use my saws daily.
Several times a day I will run a file just to straighten the cutting edge even if no burrs. If I'm cutting through debris I don't bother field sharpening if it's dull because I usually need to clean the sprocket area out and just throw another pre-sharpened chain on then bench grind later.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I was demobing a job one time out west, we were done our part of the project. We were packing up stuff and we came across an electric chain saw that we had never used.
One of the lads said it wasn't much good for anything, but I said, "Geeze, that electric Chainsaw would be perfect for me, I have an electric fireplace!"


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

pogobill said:


> I was demobing a job one time out west, we were done our part of the project. We were packing up stuff and we came across an electric chain saw that we had never used.
> One of the lads said it wasn't much good for anything, but I said, "Geeze, that electric Chainsaw would be perfect for me, I have an electric fireplace!"


I used to have an electric chainsaw! When 'modifying' my (then)156 year old house, I plugged it in and cut walls out with it! Wife and I were sitting in the living room and I decided to build a fire in the fireplace. I took the electric saw and cut the floors out of the piece of house that I was going to tear off to build the garage. 
She asked where I got the wood? I said, "Don't ask, just enjoy"!
The joke was that we 'burned the house down, one armload at a time'.


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## stevewel (May 26, 2012)

Thanks for all the information, it has come in handy!


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## FarmAnimal (Dec 10, 2012)

stevewel said:


> How often or after about how much run time do you usually need to sharpen a chain saw chain? Any rule of thumb?


I have used everything to sharpen chainsaw cutters. Without a doubt is a Dremel with chainsaw attachment. The angle is perfect and it is so quick to do. The exact sharpening bit is essential, but the quality of the sharpening and the speed can't be beat. I also use it to take about a 64th of an inch off the depth control notches on the chain. If you have the power to turn the chain in softer wood, the chips are much bigger and the cut is much faster. This was a tip from a chainsaw artist. A person who cut animals from log sections. The chips will really fly. A sharp chain cuts faster and is much less strain on the engine. It beats a file any day.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

FarmAnimal said:


> I have used everything to sharpen chainsaw cutters. Without a doubt is a Dremel with chainsaw attachment. The angle is perfect and it is so quick to do. The exact sharpening bit is essential, but the quality of the sharpening and the speed can't be beat. I also use it to take about a 64th of an inch off the depth control notches on the chain. If you have the power to turn the chain in softer wood, the chips are much bigger and the cut is much faster. This was a tip from a chainsaw artist. A person who cut animals from log sections. The chips will really fly. A sharp chain cuts faster and is much less strain on the engine. It beats a file any day.


Just beware that if you take too much off the rakers, it will increase the chances of kick back....


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## agswy (Dec 12, 2012)

I am a big user of the jigs. Cheap and very accurate. If I haven't cut dirt or rocks, 3 licks per tooth on both sides keeps it cutting fast and straight. Hand filing does OK, but I really notice a big difference in how the machine cuts and how my back feels at the end of the day. Haven't tried a Dremel because I don't trust myself. I have to admit that I cheat on the oil; half a bottle of STP to a gallon of used motor oil works better than $20 for a jug of bar and chain oil, and I adjust the oiler to almost empty that tank when I empty the fuel tank. Maybe I'm a little anal, but I put up 4 little bottles of oil and gas premeasured instead of dumping from a jug. When the bottles are empty, it's time for lunch. It's quick and I don't end up with oil and gas running down my leg.


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

agswy said:


> I am a big user of the jigs. Cheap and very accurate. If I haven't cut dirt or rocks, 3 licks per tooth on both sides keeps it cutting fast and straight. Hand filing does OK, but I really notice a big difference in how the machine cuts and how my back feels at the end of the day. Haven't tried a Dremel because I don't trust myself. I have to admit that I cheat on the oil; half a bottle of STP to a gallon of used motor oil works better than $20 for a jug of bar and chain oil, and I adjust the oiler to almost empty that tank when I empty the fuel tank. Maybe I'm a little anal, but I put up 4 little bottles of oil and gas premeasured instead of dumping from a jug. When the bottles are empty, it's time for lunch. It's quick and I don't end up with oil and gas running down my leg.


I use my 'gut' for the process.. A 'feel' for it, you might say. Comes with practice.
I can sharpen a chain that has 1/8" left on the teeth and make it cut better than a new Origon will out of the box.

My 'wood cutting' buddy calls me 'Big Chips'.. He uses a 'jig', I use my 'gut'. 
His saws cut better when I play with them.
A jig does the same thing to all teeth. If only 3 teeth hit a nail, they need the attention, not all of them!

I look at each tooth and do whatever needs done there.

Example; My son in law and I were cutting at his house. He had a 'recently new' chain on a comperable saw. My saw had an 'end of life' chain. I was getting through the logs 2 to 3 times faster than he was. He put his saw down and 'fed' mine!
When he saw that 1/4 of the teeth were GONE from my chain and the rest was 'nubbs', he asked me to take his saw with me and 'fix' it.


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## Waldershrek (Nov 23, 2009)

I hit mine with a file every time I stop to fill it up with fuel and bar oil. 3-4 strokes on each tooth.


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## ekdukisa (Jul 27, 2013)

Hi I have a little bit confusion about sharpening a chainsaw chain. I have just read the threat and I have got a lot of useful info here. I want to thanked all of you for the kind info.


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