# Scraper blade bounces around



## pioneerMan (11 mo ago)

My scraper blade doesn't really dig into the dirt very well. If it comes across a fairly small rock, it will just go over it. Is this because my tractor is too small? Or is it because I don't have enough weight on the implement? I have the hydraulic lever all the way down.

Thanks!


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

There is no down pressure on the 3 point so it's just the blade weight and the cutting edge attack angle that do the work.
You could shorten the top link a bit and get a more aggressive attack angle on the cutting edge.
People have added weight to back blades to get better digging but even then if you hit a rock above the centerline of the rock your blade will generally ride over it,
you about need to be cutting 2/3's the depth of a rock to peel it out.
Which also adds much more stress to your blade.

Even my blade bounces over a rock smaller then my fist while shallow grading and it is quite heavy.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

pioneerMan said:


> My scraper blade doesn't really dig into the dirt very well. If it comes across a fairly small rock, it will just go over it. Is this because my tractor is too small? Or is it because I don't have enough weight on the implement? I have the hydraulic lever all the way down.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> View attachment 77227


Your blade is laying back to much, that setting is used for finishing, most blades had an adjustment at the rear of the mount to change the attack angle.


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## pioneerMan (11 mo ago)

FredM said:


> Your blade is laying back to much, that setting is used for finishing, most blades had an adjustment at the rear of the mount to change the attack angle.


This blade was homemade by some farmer from yesterday-year. Why do they call it an "attack angle"? That sounds odd.

Would I have better success with a box blade with tines? It seems like it would help dig the rocks up first before smoothing over the dirt with the back part of the box. I'm new at all this, and this week was the first time I've ever done any real tractor driving.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I was going to suggest a box blade if you could afford one, they have as you say, the rippers and the box that will drag a fair bit of earth, more so that your rear blade, I have the 4 foot model and my 24HP Kubota handles this ok, not sure what tractor you have, but looks to be around the same HP.

Attack angle is an everyday term used by earth movers, tilt the blade forward to get an aggressive cut, lay back the blade for smoother finish, and you have in between blade angles from aggressive to smooth.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

...and the ground looks frozen to me as well. Frozen ground don't blade well and with a box scraper with the rippers extended even a little bit, you'll need a lot more tractor than you have to pull it. Frozen ground is not conducive to blading or ripping without substantial power and tractive effort and you don't have it with that unit. Wait until it warms up and adjust the angle of attack on the blade before you attempt any grading. You always adjust the angle of attack with the top link btw.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Are you trying to smooth out a road?…build a crown for road drainage? I ask cuz if it’s road the buried rocks may not be a bad thing. I’m no expert either though…I have a straight blade and box blade. I run the box with rippers down and it takes several passes on my crushed concrete drive. Then after it’s pulled loose I use blade at angle to pull material toward middle…then I rotate blade around backwards and use it to essentially back drag.

I can say after watching people make it look easy…it’s not so and takes some practice.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Others may be able to verify, but looks like that is an oversized bucket on the loader to me. Good for light weight material, but IF I’m correct you do not want to load it full of heavy material or could risk damaging the loader.

it may be angle of pic, but seems like a large capacity bucket.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

TX MX5200 said:


> Others may be able to verify, but looks like that is an oversized bucket on the loader to me. Good for light weight material, but IF I’m correct you do not want to load it full of heavy material or could risk damaging the loader.
> 
> it may be angle of pic, but seems like a large capacity bucket.


Material bucket, not digging (excavation) bucket I'd say.

In life, everything takes practice. No one is an instant 'professional' at anything and if they are, they are FOS.


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

LouNY said:


> There is no down pressure on the 3 point so it's just the blade weight and the cutting edge attack angle that do the work.
> You could shorten the top link a bit and get a more aggressive attack angle on the cutting edge.


I disagree with your statement. Shortening top link decreases blade angle cutting edge to ground while increasing top link length increases blade cutting edge aggression. Bouncing rear blade can normally be helped by slowing ground speed.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Not withstanding, the ground looks frozen to me and no scraper blade will work on frozen ground las time I checked.


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## LouNY (Dec 15, 2016)

Tx Jim said:


> I disagree with your statement. Shortening top link decreases blade angle cutting edge to ground while increasing top link length increases blade cutting edge aggression. Bouncing rear blade can normally be helped by slowing ground speed.


I guess it depends on were and how you measure the angle;
\, this angle is kind of a normal angle of attack for a blade, if it is laid back further it tends to suck down and bury itself and then lifting it makes a dip in the surface being worked.
I, this angle will scrape and peel a hard surface at times it will also start chattering.
Myself i have better luck cutting into a hard packed surface in a uniform amount with a more upright blade angle,
my blade is also well over 1000 pounds.
Hitting a rock in a hard packed area a blade is going to bounce over it unless you are cutting below the centerline of the rock or are using enough blade to split said rock.


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## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

I can sum this up very quickly and answer his question...............What you have is a grader blade and it is made for just that, grading out a surface not for cutting at all...............They are designed to be used in loose material and not hard ground. I agree with bill that to do what you are talking about you really need a box blade or "yardbox" as some folks call them. They have the scariflers, spikes, that will dig into the hard ground, then a blade in the back to level......


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

I will add the your tractor size will work, but the smaller the tractor the smaller bites you need to take with each pass….it takes practice as said above. I previously had a 30 hp 1953 Ford and it would handle my commercial box blade and 6’ blade. it took patience as if I got too aggressive it would auger in and wheels would dig in quick.

With more weight and power I can take bigger cuts and reduce passes. From my experience, the box will loosen and level, but will not pull material from sides to form a crown in road. Material will generally stay on side you pick it up from…this is why I listen and level with box, then pull it toward center with grader blade before back dragging.

there may be better way, but has worked for me.


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## pioneerMan (11 mo ago)

Thanks everyone for your good comments and suggestions!


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