# GT6000 Air Filter



## TerriL188 (Aug 27, 2010)

Hello, I purchased a used GT6000 a few months back with a snow blade on it. I had intended to use it this winter. I started it yesterday since it was going to snow today and it acted like it was starved, it chugged and sputtered.

I decided to find the air filter since I had not looked at it and on top of it there was what looked like water frozen on top but it smelled like gas so I took it metal top off and the filter inside had rust everywhere and foam around the filter was soaked in gas. So I didnt try to use it to move snow.

This is a round filter, like they use to have on cars. What do you think is causing the gas to get all up on it.

I am not very mechanical so make you answer easy to understand please.

Thanks

Terriedro:


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Sounds like the carb needs a cleaning/possible rebuild. I have a '90's GT6000 with the same type filter setup.

Rust means water got into it- or its sat for a while. 

Id take the whole air cleaner assembly off, and remove the rust build up ( sandpaper, wire brush) and repaint it- dont want rust clogging a new air filter ( i suggest getting a new one).


Cleaning a carb isnt as bad as you think- take your time, do it in order or removal and should go easily. Heres how i do it:

first and importantly - make drawings or take pictures of how linkages and things are placed on/around the carb- nothing like tearing it apart and not being able to remember where stuff goes again.

Find a large flat table/work area- get two large rags/towels ( not from the kitchen or bathroom- theyll get dirty) you dont use anymore and spread them out next to each other- one will be for the dirty carb/disassembly- one will be for the cleaned parts/assembly.

Remove the carb ( you might need to drain the gas- if it doesnt have a shut off valve- this would be a good time to check the condition of the gas line/filter- change if needed and add a shut off before the filter- so can be changed easily) - and place it onto the one rag. 

In order start disassembling the carb- top to bottom- lay the pieces on the rag in order of disassembly untill its totally apart. Nows the time to see what the condition of all the internal parts are like and if a rebuild kit is in order ( its around $20 - youll need the motor numbers on the flywheel should or side tins of the motor and brand of the motor/displacement size).

Now its time to clean the pieces- i use a spray can of carb cleaner - carb bath soaks are also availible - youll want all the small ports clean inside - take each individual piece and clean them individually and set them over on the other rag once cleaned- again in the same order.


Replace the pieces that need replacing and then reassemble the carb- and put it back onto the engine with all linkages hooked up. The motor should run like it should ( theres not much in way of adjusting twin cylender carbs - least thats the way on my briggs twins).

If the tractor sits outside , youll want to place a large plastic garbage bag over the motor when you park it - to keep the snow off it /water out of it.

The motor also might benefit from new spark plugs/oil change as well.


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## TerriL188 (Aug 27, 2010)

Sorry it has been so long for me to reply but I have been snow bound - I replaced the Air Filter - still trying to figure out how to remove the carb. I thought of something else that might be causing it the miss and cough. After I put the air filter on it I started it and it started OK but the it started loosing power so I pulled out the choke and that helped for a min. but it finally died. Can water in the gas cause that - I had my grandson put a gallon of gas in it and I am afraid he may have grabbed a can that I was suspisious of but had not disposed of. Thanks for your help. Terri


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

dangeroustoys56 said:


> Sounds like the carb needs a cleaning/possible rebuild. I have a '90's GT6000 with the same type filter setup.
> 
> Rust means water got into it- or its sat for a while.
> 
> ...


 Perfect, and accurate info!


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

TerriL188 said:


> Sorry it has been so long for me to reply but I have been snow bound - I replaced the Air Filter - still trying to figure out how to remove the carb. I thought of something else that might be causing it the miss and cough. After I put the air filter on it I started it and it started OK but the it started loosing power so I pulled out the choke and that helped for a min. but it finally died. Can water in the gas cause that - I had my grandson put a gallon of gas in it and I am afraid he may have grabbed a can that I was suspisious of but had not disposed of. Thanks for your help. Terri


 The entire fuel system may need flushing, and at least the carb float bowl cleaned from stale fuel, and water. I would follow dangeroustoys info it is the best method to get the GT going again. If you take your time, and document as mentioned it is very easy to do.


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## TerriL188 (Aug 27, 2010)

wjjones, Thanks for the help I hope to be able to get out there and try again to figure out how to take the carb off. Terri


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Wjjones: Thanks- i cant remember how many times ive been asked about cleaning carbs - the ' two rag and disassemble in order ' is the best and easiest way for someone to learn ( better then spending $50 and hour at a repair shop).

TerriL188: I forgot to mention - if it has been sitting a long time, you might want to replace the fuel line - its somewhat of a pain, i did it on my 86GTII, since i took it apart for repainting anyway. I had to pull the rear fenders and seat, unbolt the tank straps, the tank fitting is underneath the tank. I bot a bulk section of fuel rated rubber gas hose - longer then i needed - about 6' , because it has to weave around stuff under the tractor. Id also change the fuel filter. Its possible you might need a rebuild kit- i bot one for my 17HP opposed twin on one of my murrays, was about $20 - itd be good to do while cleaning the carb. Id also check the fuel pump- both my fuel pumps are separate vaccum pumps ( not cast into the carb front)- possibly the vaccum line has degraded also- you might want to replace that as well ( easy to do).

My briggs 18HP on the GTII has a cast intake that stretches across the motor, with the carb in the middle- the air cleaner is covering the whole assembly- best way to get the carb off is to remove the intake bolts from the engine block, then remove the carb from the intake- the bolts are underneath going up to hold the carb on.

My GT6000 with a 20HP onan is similar - single large cast iron intake, carb on top- cept on the onan it sits on top of the motor- the briggs intake sets out front of the motor.

Just be careful, take your time and most important, take pictures or drawings before removing linkages.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

I also heard someone mention something about the ethanol fuel added to the gas now will eat away at the fuel line?


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Why doesnt that surprise me... they say too much ethanol run thru older cars will eventually rot out all the rubber seals in the motor- only the E85 compatible cars can handle it. 

As an experement on some of my tractors ive switched to clear poly fuel compatible lines- i like it because i can see if the fuel is actually flowing or not. It does tend to be less flexible as it ages tho.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

dangeroustoys56 said:


> Why doesnt that surprise me... they say too much ethanol run thru older cars will eventually rot out all the rubber seals in the motor- only the E85 compatible cars can handle it.
> 
> As an experement on some of my tractors ive switched to clear poly fuel compatible lines- i like it because i can see if the fuel is actually flowing or not. It does tend to be less flexible as it ages tho.


 I wonder if there is an automotive style line made for use with ethanol that will fit lawn mowers, etc?


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

BING ALCOHOL RESISTANT<br>FUEL LINE from Aircraft Spruce I found this in a search.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Thats pretty cool - its not really that expensive either - im not even sure if braided steel lines are alcohol compatible either - but those are REALLY expensive tho.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

dangeroustoys56 said:


> Thats pretty cool - its not really that expensive either - im not even sure if braided steel lines are alcohol compatible either - but those are REALLY expensive tho.


 Yep i found some on evil bay and they wanted $9.99 for 2ft plus shipping that was for use with alcohol/ethanol. I thought that was a little high for rubber fuel line.


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