# Photos 24535 Sleeve Hitch...



## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

The installation on my GTH2548 took one hour. The largest tool required is a 15/16" socket/rachet and combination wrench. It's very well thought out, and it works. The vertical travel at the plow point is 8.5" and the only odd thing is how far aft the long handle goes when the implement is raised all the way. You really have to reach back for the handle to pull it forward and down. It doesn't take too big of a force to pull the handle(raise the implement), but I don't know how hard it's going to be pull it when the plow is in the ground(might have to do the stop/back-up trick. 
The first photo show the main plate resting on the floor of the trailer. It just hooks on 2 upper side-pins and is secured by a 5/8" bolt at the original tow hitch hole. The sleeve bar and the vertical link are secured with quick-pins. It's apparent that these 3 pins are removed in order to use the new tow hitch hole. It looks like it'll work just fine. The electric actuator kit should make the whole thing really sweet. 


<img src=http://home.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=529842f6-19ea-3d00-2e08-685f79b94b59&size=lg>

<img src=http://home.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=78346210-4936-3a51-367a-50db21922188&size=lg>

<img src=http://home.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=358516ab-56b6-6257-1d50-1f0d6e3bdfe7&size=lg>


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## GT5000 (Feb 23, 2004)

Willie:

Looks nice. I'll have it on Monday.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Willie
Where's the rest of your plow? Looks like your missing the coulter wheel to slice the ground before the plow turns it over.


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## Stewart (Sep 17, 2003)

Is this the part that gets the actuator?


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

sixchows,
The coulter wheel is there in the trailer, it's just not installed. You can see it behind the plow arm, leaning on the sidewall.

Stewart,
All I know about the installation of the electric kit is that the 2 brackets that support the upper axle, which is part of the handle, are removed and new ones that come in the electric kit are installed. The lower part of the actuator attaches to the tabs at the sleeve. That's what I was told, I haven't seen a diagram. It's still a bit of a mystery exactly what those upper brackets consist of. I can tell you that if I had JUST the actuator by itself it would not be a problem to just fabricate an upper plate that bolts to the 4 holes, and weld 2 tabs that would receive the upper end of the actuator. At this point, because of the high price of this kit, it could be that the kit comes with some kind of bellcrank that will work a link that goes forward to the tab on the shaft of the deck-lift axle(that attaches to the long handle that raises the deck). I think that's what GT5000 was talking about. I'm still trying to obtain a diagram of everything that comes with the electric kit. We'll see.

P.S.-The reason it doesn't make sense to me that they would link the rear mount electric actuator to the deck mechanism is because if you are mowing and using the bagger you would have to remove the actuator AND the hitch plate. There's a couple of unanswered questions in this area.


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## GT5000 (Feb 23, 2004)

Willie:

Another thing you could do is call Sears and tell them you were expecting the 24545 electric lift, not the 24535 manual lift. In lieu of returning the entire 24535 (that you already sweated through to mount) you'd settle for simply the bracket and actuator to make your MOUNTED 24535 an electric 24545.

Heck, they made you wait long enough didn't they?


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## Stewart (Sep 17, 2003)

I hope it all works out, the electric lift sounds cool!


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Looks good Willie have you tried it out yet lets us know how it works once you start plowing.
Jody


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

That's a nice looking setup Willie...I like how they extended the drawbar hole while utilizing the frame one for overall strength. Well thought out hitch.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

But will the "Bumper Dumper" work on the sleeve hitch?


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *But will the "Bumper Dumper" work on the sleeve hitch?   *


Yes, when mounted backwards it will take the place of the tractor seat, so when you attach a tandem disk to the sleeve hitch you can fertilize and till at the same time, getting the field ready for planting in record time. As there will be no need to stop for potty breaks, it will revolutionize farming as we now know it.


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Now that use your head or should i say:moon: Argee:lmao: :furious: 
Jody


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## johndeere (Sep 17, 2003)

Why did you paint that Husqvarna Pink?


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

johndeere,
I'm too lazy to read the camera manual and learn how to work it on non-automatic. In bright sunlight, orange turns to pink. I need to pinch the aperature, or speedup the shutter, or filter it. I don't know. Check out this shot, it's almost hot pink:


<img src=http://home.hpphoto.com/servlet/LinkPhoto?GUID=6ad43f37-3ff2-3c5a-2172-46621c3a4662&size=lg>


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Boy that lift are looks like a killer.  Wounder how that will work in the field?

I dislocated my sholder about 15 years ago, and I could NEVER reach back there to lift anything without real bad pain.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

Paul,
They're going to force some of us to buy the electric lift kit  
This last photo shows the maximum distance the handle will go rearward, I've got the stop adjusted all the way which allows the handle to go all the way back. In this position, I can reach back and grab the handle while my left hand is still on the steering wheel, but I have to turn my shoulders a little bit, so I think this handle thing is do-able. I can adjust the stop such that the handle will come in 4" which is not enough to hurt the vertical stroke. That'll make it much better for me. I'm 5'-10" at 175 lbs. 
The thing that concerns me, on my rig, is that the tractor(and the hitch) sit too low, and I'll run out of pitch adjustment on the plow. As you can see, I need to flatten out the plow a little bit. You can tell the angle by comparing the plow angle to the floor of the trailer. At this angle the plow will want to go to China. I don't want to do what my cousin did. As kids, he panicked and jumped off a Johnny 'cause it started to pick up the front and it came all the way over on it's back. He got lucky. Losing traction is not so bad sometimes.....


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## Stewart (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Willie Nunez _
> *johndeere,
> I'm too lazy to read the camera manual and learn how to work it on non-automatic. In bright sunlight, orange turns to pink. I need to pinch the aperature, or speedup the shutter, or filter it. I don't know. Check out this shot, it's almost hot pink:
> 
> ...


I was going to say "Wow check out that pink tractor" but you answered that question! It sure would get som attention, maybe not the kind you would want.....

Sorry I couldnt resist the fun! Thanks for sharing!


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

*Plowing depth*

Willie....you should be able to adjust your sleeve hitch stops so your only plowing at 6-8" in depth. Once you have the depth issue addressed, then on a level surface (preferably a concrete surface) srt the tip of the plow on the floor and raise the back of the landslide so it is about 1" difference. These are rough settings, once you get it in the ground and see how the furrows are turning you can fine tune it.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Will a tractor that size pull a plow through hard soil? :truth:


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Chief
Yea it definately will pull a plow, been doing it about 4years now with my craftsman.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

*Re: Plowing depth*



> _Originally posted by Argee _
> *Willie....you should be able to adjust your sleeve hitch stops so your only plowing at 6-8" in depth. Once you have the depth issue addressed, then on a level surface (preferably a concrete surface) srt the tip of the plow on the floor and raise the back of the landslide so it is about 1" difference. These are rough settings, once you get it in the ground and see how the furrows are turning you can fine tune it. *




Just to add to this heres a web site that shows plow setup..

plow setup


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Hey Paul your link dont work 
Jody


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Doesn't work for me either. :quiet:


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Chief
> Yea it definately will pull a plow, been doing it about 4years now with my craftsman. *


Well that makes for a pretty handy little tractor. I would have thought that the tractor does not have enough weight and the rear tires would spin against the resistance of the plow. I have traction problems with my 4410 skidding logs sometimes and I figured a plow offered more resistance than that.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

hmmmm I will check it when I get home


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Does the tractor have R-1 type ag tread tires like the one in the pictures? I take it that it does and those make a big difference too.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Chief
If you mean my tractor, no I use turf tires with weights and chains.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I could see where that would get as good a traction as anyelse.


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *Well that makes for a pretty handy little tractor. I would have thought that the tractor does not have enough weight and the rear tires would spin against the resistance of the plow. I have traction problems with my 4410 skidding logs sometimes and I figured a plow offered more resistance than that. *


These little GT's will fool you. Pound for pound they're a lot of tractor. When pulling a plow the may get a little light in the front end inhibiting steering a little. They're pretty impressive.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

I installed the Carlisle Super Lugs because it's a universal tractor tire tread. Right away I could tell that they had superior traction, compared to the stock turf-tires. However, I still had to install the 55 lb wheel weights to keep the tires from spinning when the plow encountered hard spots in the clay.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Aren't you worried about breaking an axle. They can handle it ok? If you have been doing it for this long. I assume so.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

Chief,
I haven't been doing this for very long. This is my first little tractor, and very recently saw my first sleeve hitch( a few days actually). I have no earthly idea as to what will break or fail first.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

Paul,
What happened to the "plow setup" information? I gotta get on the learning curve. Thanks.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Willie Nunez _
> *Paul,
> What happened to the "plow setup" information? I gotta get on the learning curve. Thanks. *



Opps sorry. Forgot to check the link at home  



I will try agean tonight. sorry guys


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## Greg (Sep 16, 2003)

In the mean time, does this help at all?

http://www.weekendfreedommachines.org/techinfo/plowsetup.html

Greg


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

Guys,
I am seriously considering making a couple of modifications on this sleeve hitch.
1) Lengthening the upper arm(on the handle shaft) in order to increase the vertical stroke of the hitch.
2) Drilling 2 new 5/8" holes in order to raise the drawbar pin location. It sits too low.


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## GT5000 (Feb 23, 2004)

"Guys,
I am seriously considering making a couple of modifications on this sleeve hitch.
1) Lengthening the upper arm(on the handle shaft) in order to increase the vertical stroke of the hitch.
2) Drilling 2 new 5/8" holes in order to raise the drawbar pin location. It sits too low"

If these tasks are meant to accomodate the plow, wouldn't it make more sense to either rent a tiller or higher someone with one to till your plot while you sit there sipping a beer adoring your otherwise non chopped up #24535 sleeve hitch?

I tend to sense perpetual overkill here - akin to the Navy standing down all sub operations to lengthen periscopes one foot because some Admiral sent out a directive ordering that all subs must travel one foot lower when wanting to look at something.

My God, it sounds like 5,000 acre vegetable farms are in play here.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

GT5000,
So if Willie wants to tinker, we should let him tinker. I'm curious just how much one of these "Yard" tractors will do and will it do it for a long time? or will we find out the breaking strength of some of these components. It is all educational, and no out of pocket expense for me yet. As long as Willie is footing the bill, I'll read about his experiments.


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## Stewart (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by bontai Joe _
> *GT5000,
> So if Willie wants to tinker, we should let him tinker. I'm curious just how much one of these "Yard" tractors will do and will it do it for a long time? or will we find out the breaking strength of some of these components. It is all educational, and no out of pocket expense for me yet. As long as Willie is footing the bill, I'll read about his experiments. *


Same for me, what is it hurting?
:cheers:


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## GT5000 (Feb 23, 2004)

It's my opinion you ****ing idiots! I have nothing against Willie - I DIFFER WITH HIS PERSPECTIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What's up with this forum? Does Johnny Dumpit fund it or something. Why do half of you take this tractor stuff so damn seriously? Is it all you got?

Hey moderator - **** OFF yourself


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

OK GT5000 you just got yourself a two week suspension from posting. 
Jody


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## Stewart (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by GT5000 _
> *It's my opinion you ****ing idiots! I have nothing against Willie - I DIFFER WITH HIS PERSPECTIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> What's up with this forum? Does Johnny Dumpit fund it or something. Why do half of you take this tractor stuff so damn seriously? Is it all you got?
> ...


As my wife says"Whatever" 
:cheers:


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

It looks like I should've explained why/how I was contemplating modifying my new sleeve hitch.
In the first place, neither one of the mods is irreversible:
Drilling 2 holes on the lower ears of the main frame #1 will hurt nothing.
Replacing the 2 tabs which receive the upper end of the lifting link #8 with longer ones that will have an additional hole that's 3/4" further out(center to center) than the original, will hurt nothing.
Drilling 2 more holes at the lower end of the lifting link, above the original hole, such that it'll end up with 3 holes which are 7/8" form each other(center to center) will hurt nothing.
But, all these additional holes will allow me to run all the experiments I want. I'll be able to test the combinations of adjustments that might improve things for me. 
I'm not like GT5000. Just because an engineer designs something that looks good, it doesn't mean that it's perfect. Sometimes you have to go through several development models before you get it right.


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## Stewart (Sep 17, 2003)

Willie,
If it works for you and might be something that someone here on the forum could use then press on with pride! Shoot us a picture if you get time and explain if it helped you out or not. Thanks for sharing. :cheers:


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## Styx (Sep 16, 2003)

> _Originally posted by jodyand _
> *OK GT5000 you just got yourself a two week suspension from posting.
> Jody *


Thank you Jody. This guy is like Jeckyl and Hyde.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Willie Nunez _
> *I'm not like GT5000. Just because an engineer designs something that looks good, it doesn't mean that it's perfect. Sometimes you have to go through several development models before you get it right. *


Good point. The engineers have to design it to work for everyone. If your taller, shorter, or use a more unusal attachment, that "midel of the road engineering" may not be right for YOU. 

Like that lift arm. If it was me, I would have to redising that whole arm setup. Looking at it it looks like it was ment to be worked by your right arm, wile reaching back. Now becouse of a dislocating of that sholder, I could never work it witout being in a lot of pain. I would have to eather relocate it farther foward, or to the other side. 

So goahead and mod away. Remember before all this mas production, they MADE what they needed. It is for YOUR tractor, not 4'10" Mary down the street.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Willie Nunez _
> *Paul,
> What happened to the "plow setup" information? I gotta get on the learning curve. Thanks. *


Sorry links dead. 


Probably should have checked it before I posted it huh?


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

Paul,
Don't worry about it. Apparently, my problem didn't have anything to do with the pitch adjustment of the plow. Once, I found out that this new hitch only has 2-5/8" of total vertical stroke(and that's with height adjust screw totally removed), I decided there was a design deficiency with it. I've totally given up on the manual operation of this sleeve hitch #24535. I am moving forward with my own adaptation of the Bear Linear electric actuator(the identical Bear model number that Agri-Fab uses for the Sears electric kit. I will end up with a 4" stroke instead of 2-5/8", and I will have a more uselful depth-stop adjustment.
Because I'm fabricating all the brackets myself, I'll only have $180 in the actuator and $10 in the rocker switch.
I'm still curious to find out why the price of the Sears electric kit is $380.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

I haven't been keeping up with this thread for a few days and today I wanted to check up on Willie's progress. I was not prepared for the unchin: #[email protected]$: that happened a few days ago. I hope that all settles down so we can enjoy the forum. I hope Willie will post some photos of his progress so that I might better understand what is happening. "A picture is worth a 1000 words."


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## MGM (Sep 16, 2003)

WOW.

That's all I can say.


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## tjw in kans (Oct 10, 2003)

willie, i .was hoping the new style sleeve hitch would be better than last years model that i have, but it doesnt sound like it. so far all i have salvaged from the last years model is the drawbar portion, the manual lift was useless to me at trying to raise 150# hanging from the drawbar. keep us updated on the actuator project, who knows, i may want to convert mine from the winch setup.


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## Willie Nunez (Feb 25, 2004)

tjw,
Actually, the new manual hitch is OK, and I'm sure it'll serve well on most applications. But, because it's manual, there's only so much you can do with it. I'm very satisfied with getting my money's worth. All I did was removed the 4 bolts which hold the brackets for the long handle. What I have left is a wonderful platform for the electric conversion. And, it'll retain the "quick install" features, one bolt will allow the removal of everything because the electric actuator will mount on the original "easy off" plate.
Of course, the final judgement will come after I install and test the actuator.


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## tjw in kans (Oct 10, 2003)

willie, i was wondering what sears was considering for ease of use when they designed both the hitches, like what attachments? i have had tendon surgery on on my left shoulder and right forearm but i dont think this is all the problem, anything that hangs 3 feet behind the hitch is going to be harder to raise, like a moldboard plow or my box scraper with the country style downforce of 1 or 2 cast iron v8 cylinder heads onboard. i could raise mine with the centermount lift handle using both hands, but it would raise me off the seat and the motor would die and that was with no added weight, i will take pushing a rocker switch anytime. as far as people wondering about an axle breaking, look under any midsized front wheel drive car, the axles look about the same or smaller than our gts, yeah i know there is a plastic sleeve on mine to make it look like it is 1 inch diameter. keep us posted on the actuator project and good luck.


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