# IH 574 Hydraulic leak



## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

I recently purchased a IH 574 diesel tractor and I took it out for her maiden voyage this past weekend. The tractor runs great except for a hydraulic leak.

This hydraulic leak only occurs when I have the tractor hooked up to something like my hydraulic dump trailer. The leak occurs when I'm bringing the dump trailer down and not up. The leak is coming from the back of the valve assembly. When I checked the transmission fluid dipstick it is overly full.

I was wondering if this is simply a matter of their being too much hydraulic fluid in the tractor or could it be a bigger problem?

The valve that I am talking about is best seen when the tractor seat is off.

Thanks in advance


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Hello Shawnp, welcome to the tractor forum. 

If the leak was due to the reservoir being overfull, I would expect fluid to come out of a vent. From your description, it sounds to me like the valve is leaking. You are going to dig into it and determine exactly where the fluid is coming from.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Can you post couple pictures leaking area?


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## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

Thanks for the reply guys. I did dig into it and I found exactly where's it coming from. It's coming out of the cylinder that is connected to the auxiliary valve. It looks like it's coming from a relief valve.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I don't believe that leak has anything to do with a relief valve. I suspect it's more like the spool seals on the end of the valve body. What I see in your photos looks like the oil may be coming from the cover for the centering springs/detent mechanism of the valve. 
There are(of course) multiple possible valves your 574 could be configured with, depending on serial numbers and valve options, but after studying the parts book, it looks to me that it might be this one. 

http://partstore.caseih.com/us/ValleyImplementNL/parts-search.html#epc::mr50613ar623629


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I don't believe that leak has anything to do with a relief valve. I suspect it's more like the spool seals on the end of the valve body. What I see in your photos looks like the oil may be coming from the cover for the centering springs/detent mechanism of the valve. 
There are(of course) multiple possible valves your 574 could be configured with, depending on serial numbers and valve options, but after studying the parts book, it looks to me that it might be this one. 

http://partstore.caseih.com/us/ValleyImplementNL/parts-search.html#epc::mr50613ar623629


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## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

Hey Fedup, thanks for the insight. The hydraulic fluid is coming from the very end of the metal cylinder. On the end of the cylinder is a little piston. I believe this is a air relief valve of sorts. The hydraulics work until I start to let my dump trailer down and then it comes out of that little piston (bubbles form and fluid leaks out) what parts would you guys recommend replacing?


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## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

NM on the specific parts. Just out of curiosity, what makes you think it's the spring/detention mechanism?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

That's what's inside the tube your oil is escaping from. That's a dry area under normal circumstances. The hole is merely a vent. Just curious, is this a detented valve? By that I mean does it lock into place when activated, then pop back to neutral when full pressure is reached, or does it simply return to neutral when the lever is released? That will make difference in what you do next. Detented valves are more complex, harder to work on as far as repairs go, with much more chances for leaks.


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## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

Hey Fedup, I believe this is a detented valve. Once activated, the hydraulics keep working until full pressure is reached. I think I found the similar problem in a 656 in a different site. http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=farmall&th=649256


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## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

What parts would you recommend ordering first?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

What parts to order first? Well, that's a judgement call. The YT post you referenced involved a 656. Granted, the valves IH supplied at that time were fitted to multiple models, so the repair procedures involved will be similar, at least. Problems I see are these: the valve location on your tractor will most likely be different than the 656, and access may be far more restricted, so removing the spool without first removing the entire valve may not be possible. Also with detented valves, there are more things to leak within the area from which your oil is escaping. Thus once the spool is removed, further dis assembly, repair, and re assembly is required on the detent portion itself. This may seem straight forward at first glance, but it's trickier than it looks. If assembled incorrectly, either the valve may not operated correctly, or the leak could be worse than when you started. At this point, I suspect your particular leak may well be more related to O rings between body and spool rather than within the detent mechanism itself. Therefore, if it were me, I would not get into that portion, but concentrate on the spool seals first. Even that is not as easy as it looks. The spool to body clearance is extremely close, not like dropping a bolt into a hole. It requires room to maneuver, correct alignment, cleanliness, lubrication, and above all, care. The multiple lands on the spool are sharp, and will easily slice chunks off new O rings if not handled properly. 
I would plan on O rings for both sides of the valve as well as the internal seals. From the parts books it seems most should be available, but not necessarily in kit form.


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## oldguychuck (Oct 12, 2012)

Good Morning all

This is not a hydraulic leak question, but not sure where else to park it.

I have a 574 International and we live in cold snow country, so all winter I use a squirt can of either to assist in starting the tractor. I do this
by a squirt into the air intake canister just under the left side of the canopy - works just fine.

Today, decided I could read a page or two of the shop service manual, just for something to do. Low and behold, section 99 
- entitled "Ether Starting Aid" tells all about the chamber somewhere for the either canister and in that container, it is supposed to sit until spring or until empty.

Never heard of such a setup - any body know about it and where it is?

Good Morning to All, and to All a good day !



oldguychuck


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Ether start kits were an option back when that tractor was built. Common, yes, but not standard equipment. If your tractor had one, you probably would have found it by now. They were usually mounted under the sheet metal somewhere not too hard to access, but not always "out front". It would have a small steel tube from the unit to a fitting somewhere on the intake tubing, often into the manifold itself. Also would be a button somewhere near the key switch or close by to operate it. Advantages to having one over spraying a "shot" into the air cleaner - one; it was a pre measured amount injected for each push of the button(as opposed to the half - can blast some people often feel is necessary) two; if done from the operator platform, it can be introduced where it's needed while actually cranking the engine instead of being poured in and then climbing up onto the tractor, hoping it hasn't evaporated before you can get the starter cranking. 
I believe they may still be available, but not as easy to find as they once were. Technology has pretty much made them obsolete.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Hey oldguychuck,

See attached parts diagram.


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## oldguychuck (Oct 12, 2012)

Thx "fedup"

I get everything ready before I shoot blast one (a light blast) and very seldom ever have to go to blast 2. Perhaps at -20C or lower, I'll need a second blast, but never had to go to a third one. I usually take the face plate off the air filter container, pull the air filter, stick the can in there, and shoot. Immediately button it all back up again. Once or twice over the years I have had to do it twice, but not lately because I put an electric block heater in and turn it on when I am done for the day, thus it is good to go at any time for snow plowing, etc.

oldguychuck


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## oldguychuck (Oct 12, 2012)

Thx "sixbales". Opened it up, printed her out and put it in my home grown parts manual. At least I know I'm not missing half my tractor.

oldguychuck


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## oldguychuck (Oct 12, 2012)

A little more on starting....

I always plug the block heater in either the night before or just before breakfast. I leave it on until I start up that day.

I only squirt one good shot into the air breather - NOT several. It almost always starts on one shot, but if not, after having tried, I give another small shot and try again. I have never missed with that first or second shot. If I did, I would wait an hour or two to try again - don't need to squirt again to enjoy a big bang oops!

oldguychuck


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## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

After chatting with the gent at an IH shop he recommended I try replacing these. I'll keep you updated.


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## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

This is the schematic that I'll be using.


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## Shawnp (Feb 6, 2016)

Good morning gents! After replacing the parts in the spreadsheet, the leak seems to have stopped. When I tore apart the auxiliary valve, I was missing an o-ring and a washer. Its interesting how a $1 part can cause such a headache


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## oldguychuck (Oct 12, 2012)

glad ya got it fixed and great that the problem was solved so easy. When I did mine, I ended up buying a new pump - easy enough to put in but hugw for $$$$$

oldguychcuk


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