# 1974 Ford 2000 Diesel - no fuel from CAV bleed screw



## CowboyHokie (Jul 5, 2016)

Hello members. My 2000 stopped running. I suspected fuel delivery issues due to an all of the sudden shut down and wouldn't crank. I pulled the fuel filter and replaced. Tried to prime by bleeding and loosening the pump screw. No fuel comes out of bleed screw. Some fuel does come out of pump screw when I turn key over. Can't get fuel to bleed out. I have unscrewed fuel input line to filter and open shut off valve to ensure fuel is getting to filter. Any suggestions and a pre-thanks for any help.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

When a diesel stops running, it is not getting fuel. Was your fuel tank close to empty? I learned a long time ago....don't let your tank get too low on fuel. You risk sucking some air into the system, ands sometimes its a PITA to get it started again.

I went out and checked the bleeder screw on my CAV pump. I get very little flow (virtually none) out of the bleeder screw. Cranked the engine and she squirted fuel out of the bleeder screw. 

Bleeding procedure:
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Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen. 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

Your pump may have a bleeder screw. If so, open that and crank the engine until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. Otherwise loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittngs in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

First things first. If the fuel level in tank is even with or just slightly above the top of the filter base, add some more fuel. The higher the level, the better the gravity flow. 
Secondly, the brand/style of the new filter can be critical. C.A.V. OEM filters and some others have multiple holes in the top through which fuel enters the element. NAPA, Wix, and some others have no such holes, but only four narrow openings near the outer edge. A very common "rookie mistake" is to put the third quad ring(some filters come with three when only two are required) on top of the element, effectively blocking fuel from ever entering the element. Unless you're absolutely confident you did NOT make this mistake, you might want to pull the filter back off and check it before you run your battery down or cook the starter trying to get fuel through a blocked passage.


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## CowboyHokie (Jul 5, 2016)

Thanks for both replies - very helpful and I will follow the procedure this weekend when I get back to her. It does have a new NAPA filter. Are you describing the gaskets as the common mistake? I believe I have them correctly installed.


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