# Craftsman 42" Snow thrower won't raise off the ground much



## Loosenut

I bought a barely used 42" Craftsman snow thrower (model 248373) and put it on my YT4500 yard tractor. It is only one year old. The previous owner had it on a T2400 model which is a little smaller than mine, but I got all the parts and had no trouble mounting it, but when I go to lift it up it hardly comes up off the ground. It seems like it needs some kind of adjustment as there is plenty of movement in the arm before it finally starts lifting, but it runs out of travel room and hits the lock notch too soon. I can't find anything in the manual about this and was hoping somebody here could help me out.

Thanks.


----------



## EdF

Howdy Looosenut,

Thanks for visiting our forum.

QUOTE: "It seems like it needs some kind of adjustment as there is plenty of movement in the arm before it finally starts lifting, but it runs out of travel room and hits the lock notch too soon."

Apparently there is too much "slop" in the lift linkage. If you cannot find an adjustment to shorten the linkage, study the situation and make necessary modifications to shorten it. You will want to leave some room for downward movement so it can follow the terrain. 

Maybe someone else can chime in here.


----------



## Loosenut

I've been studying this and I really think this is a design issue. I put 1 1/2" blocks under the front tires and this gave it plenty of ground clearance (about 3") in the "up" position. I should not have to buy taller tires for my tractor to make a $1200 tool work. I did notice that the clevis pins that hold it to the tractor mounting brackets wobble in the holes when you pick up on the front of the housing. I also noticed that in the manual for another model (24838) they replaced these pins with a continuous rod that goes all the way across between both sides. Seems to me this would eliminate the wobble and some of the play that results from it and maybe the housing would sit a little higher If I made one and put it in mine.


----------



## BigT

Post a photo of your lift arm and linkage to the snow blower, and someone here can probably advise you. If there's a chain in the lift system, you can simply remove a link or two.


----------



## BigT

I read on an internet post that Sears is aware of this problem and are working on a solution. Should have it in hand by now. Give them a call.


----------



## Loosenut

I called Agri-Fab (the manufacturer) and told them my problem. She told me she would send me a "kit" to repair it. Sounds like a known problem. Funny I couldn't find anything about it online, but anyways when I get the "kit" I'll see what it is and post back so others will know.


----------



## robbie0911

I had the similar problem. My solution is a 2 part. 
1. I did invest in 2 16 inch tires on rims. $85.00 from Tractor warehouse. They replaced 15 inch tires. Just remember to change back if you mow lawn. That was 1 inch added to lift. 
2. I added a linear actuator 8 inch, with DTDP switch. I replaced the agri fab lift at with a 3/4 inch long bolt. I also purchased the bolt and washer kit. I secured bolt in location of lift bar with washers and bolt on each end. At the top of bar, I secured wire that goes to linear actuator. I could attach pics if interested. This change allows you to lift thrower so there will be no issues. The speed of the actuator will decide how fast it goes up and down. No need to reach forward and get frustrated. Automation from your seat.


----------



## Loosenut

I am interested in what you did. I'm always interested in adding conveniences. Getting rid of that long lift handle sounds like a great idea.

Do you think both modifications were necessary. I just don't like the hassle or expense of having two sets of front wheels if I can avoid it.


----------



## robbie0911

Both upgrades are your choice. You could make project work without changing tires. I have attached pictures. The actuator And switch, I got off of EBay with brackets. The bolt and nuts, washers, lock washers and pipe holder were purchased at Home Depot. Once set up, tighten bolts to align wire/ actuator.
I utilized cut outs already in frame with bolts. I placed a thick washer under linear bracket to bump out to align actuator.


----------



## rdr202

I also removed all the manual controls on my blower. I added a car seat motor to move chute left to right and a actuator to raise and lower the chute deflector. The raise and lower the blower I installed a actuator.


----------



## robbie0911

What size actuator did you use on direction? I am looking at a 4 inch one with attaching it to side like John Deere does. The motor side to side was looking at a power window motor. But that might not happen this year. Thanks for pics.


----------



## rdr202

robbie0911 said:


> What size actuator did you use on direction? I am looking at a 4 inch one with attaching it to side like John Deere does. The motor side to side was looking at a power window motor. But that might not happen this year. Thanks for pics.



6" 250# actuator cost $38.00 on eBay


----------



## Country Boy

Yeah, those heads don't lift all that far, even when new. I just installed a brand new one on an Ariens (AYP/Husqvarna built just like your Craftsman) and it only lifted about 2" off the ground. I installed two hardened bolts in place of those clevis pins on a customer's machine here to help eliminate the slop. I dropped the head and rotated the bracket back as far as possible before tightening to take up as much slack as possible. Most tractor heads don't lift all that far. Even the older Ariens built heads only lifted 2-3" max.


----------



## robbie0911

I added 16 inch tires giving me an xtra 1 inch on lift. That makes a big difference in my opinion.


----------



## Loosenut

The kit came and was easy to install. I took off the two slotted lift links and replaced them with the new ones they sent. They are basically 1/2 a lift link and the other half is threaded rod making them adjustable. It came with nuts, washers and even new cotter pins. Now the blower lifts about 2 1/2-3 inches off the ground. Still not much clearance going up or down an incline, but much better than before. I could even adjust one side to make the blower level when lifted.


----------



## jhngardner367

Most snow throwers were meant for hard-surface(paved,or concrete) drives,so lift height was a second thought to the manufacturers .
If you have a gravel,or dirt drive,it's best t use a blade!
i had a neighbor ,in Michigan,that chucked a rock right through his wife's car window !.
I have both a blade,and a snow thrower,for the Bolens,and I rebuilt the snow thrower,before moving to Arkansas,and I've only used it 1 time.


----------



## robbie0911

The




















Just an update with my above mentioned system. I have about a 4 in lift with 16 inch tired. The actuator isn't the fastest, but lifts it fine. 
I purchased a zinc coated bar to replace 1 inch pieces. Just need to bend and drill hole for pin.


----------



## Blu3220

robbie0911 said:


> Both upgrades are your choice. You could make project work without changing tires. I have attached pictures. The actuator And switch, I got off of EBay with brackets. The bolt and nuts, washers, lock washers and pipe holder were purchased at Home Depot. Once set up, tighten bolts to align wire/ actuator.
> I utilized cut outs already in frame with bolts. I placed a thick washer under linear bracket to bump out to align actuator.


Hi Robbie, given this thread is three years old I hope you see this. I'm putting an actuator on my blower and I'm wondering what you did about the blower clicking into place when it's in the raised position. When lowering the blower how does it get past the hook type thing that holds the blower in place when raised

Hope the above makes sense to you.


----------



## kdd

robbie0911 said:


> Both upgrades are your choice. You could make project work without changing tires. I have attached pictures. The actuator And switch, I got off of EBay with brackets. The bolt and nuts, washers, lock washers and pipe holder were purchased at Home Depot. Once set up, tighten bolts to align wire/ actuator.
> I utilized cut outs already in frame with bolts. I placed a thick washer under linear bracket to bump out to align actuator.
> what size actuator did you buy and also switch?
> View attachment 26385
> View attachment 26386
> View attachment 26387
> View attachment 26388
> View attachment 26389
> View attachment 26390
> View attachment 26391
> View attachment 26392
> View attachment 26393
> View attachment 26394


----------



## kdd

what size actuator and switch/cost


----------



## Blu3220

kdd said:


> what size actuator and switch/cost


Hi kdd. I guess it all depends how much you want to spend and how fast you want the actuator to work. My setup with actuator, switch and cable cost around $50 ish. I bought the actuator and switch on Ebay.

Have to say it's one of my made life easier projects.


----------



## kdd

what


Blu3220 said:


> Hi kdd. I guess it all depends how much you want to spend and how fast you want the actuator to work. My setup with actuator, switch and cable cost around $50 ish. I bought the actuator and switch on Ebay.
> 
> Have to say it's one of my made life easier projects.


size actuator and switch/cost


----------



## kdd

what size weight lbs. and stoke,


----------



## Blu3220

kdd said:


> what size weight lbs. and stoke,


Without knowing your set-up I really couldn't say. Have a look on Youtube, lots of info on there.


----------

