# 19?? Ford 4000 Need help identifying missing hose



## BowmanFarms (Jan 13, 2013)

I have what is believed to be a 1975 ford 4000 3cyl gas. First off i Just got this tractor and am in the process of going thru it, I have zero knowledge with tractor mechanics but am rather savoy when it comes to cars/trucks. Any way, I am wondering what hose i am missing, it connects to the oil fill neck , Is this an air intake? and where should i be looking for the other end at? 

I am going thru it because it does not like to start when the temp is below 35 i noticed and since this is a gas tractor it is not making since to me. Also Any ideas for freeing the tie-rod for adjustment- the left tire was way out and i got it in place but now am fighting with the tie-rod/drag-link bar ( the bar that runs from wheel to wheel.


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## rustngreese (May 4, 2009)

I think your hose should be going to the air cleaner somewhere to recirculate the fumes from the crankcase. What part of the tie rod is stuck?


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## BowmanFarms (Jan 13, 2013)

it would be considered the outer tie rod left side.... i moved the axle in and obviously now it need to be re-adjusted in to the sleeve.... any idea where the air cleaner is or should be? does the cleaner function solely for the crank case or would their be another hose going to the cleaner as well?
just so we are clear the fill neck is on the valve cover. on a car one cover would have a pcv valve and the other cover would have the rubber hose going to the air filter!


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## ezeddie (Jan 13, 2013)

Check your service manual, it has good photos.


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## tcreeley (Jan 2, 2012)

Might help:

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/003/7/7/3771-ford-4000.html

manual listed

nice tractor


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It ventilates into open air through a steel tube (46) going down the engine. The tube connects to the neck by a short rubber hose (45).

Diagram from Messick's:


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

There are different front axle arrangements, this is for the all purpose chassis:

Some toe adjustment can be done at the threaded tie rod (42B).
Sliding the parts in our out is not for adjustment, you do that only when you change the axle width. The parts have notches for the clamps (43) that correspond to the holes in the axle.
Some spindles can have their arms positioned in only one angle, others have a splined fashioned mounting. If you have the latter type it is possible you have one or both arms at the wrong angle.

Diagram from Messick's:


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## BowmanFarms (Jan 13, 2013)

this is all great information you have no idea how much it helps. to the post that states the linkage with the clamps is for the axle holes/width adjustment, that is the problem, for some reason the previous owner had the left axle way out- out past rear tire, so i moved/ forced the axle to match the right wheel. and since i did that as you stated i need to move the notched section in to match the new axle position but the problem is that it is all seized up. i got the whole assembly off the tractor today thinking it should move freely (with clamps removed) i am considering bringing it to NH for possible replacement. 
also may i ask where you got the diagrams from? i have been looking and could find no such thing.


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## BowmanFarms (Jan 13, 2013)

to the post that states the hose goes to open air. does that mean that not having a hose on it is ok? or is their some sort of reason they send it down? maybe like a gravity pcv?

again where did you get the diagram from? thanks

do they have one that tells where the serial number is. i have been on the hunt for that!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

BowmanFarms said:


> ...to the post that states the linkage with the clamps is for the axle holes/width adjustment, that is the problem, for some reason the previous owner had the left axle way out- out past rear tire, so i moved/ forced the axle to match the right wheel. and since i did that as you stated i need to move the notched section in to match the new axle position but the problem is that it is all seized up...


Sorry, I misunderstood and thought that it was a toe problem. Try heating the sleeve with a welding torch and twist the parts. I have had problems with the track rod, you may need to shorten that one as well.




BowmanFarms said:


> to the post that states the hose goes to open air. does that mean that not having a hose on it is ok? or is their some sort of reason they send it down? maybe like a gravity pcv?...


The crankcase ventilation tube is only there to get fumes and oil vapour away from engine compartment. It can be pretty messy by time otherwise. I know nothing about the gas engine, I have a diesel 4000 -69. Apart from the engine and cooler getting dirty, is it not a risk that you get gas fumes building up under the hood especially during cold starts without the tube?




BowmanFarms said:


> ...again where did you get the diagram from? thanks...


The diagrams are from Messick's, a New Holland dealer: http://www.messicks.com/
Direct link to your tractor's diagrams: http://www.messicks.com/NH/64887.aspx

Here is the official NH catalog: http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::model_find
It is a bit different, you choose TRACTORS...AGRICULTURAL...3/4 CYL 65-75 to get a list with models of the 1000-series.




BowmanFarms said:


> ...do they have one that tells where the serial number is. i have been on the hunt for that!


It is very important to identify your tractor, so you get the proper diagram and find the right parts.
The tractor model number gives you what type of tractor it is (model, engine, PTO, chassis and transmission).
Production code gives the date of assembly.
Serial number gives in what country (factory) it was assembled, and a rough dating.
A very good source for help on identifying is http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/rhcodes_serial.html


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## BowmanFarms (Jan 13, 2013)

I Agree it is important to know what you have. I will look again as this diagram is the best i have seen yet and shows the location a bit better. Although I have looked in some of these areas with no luck previously, but it helps to know what your looking for too, lol.


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## rustngreese (May 4, 2009)

I checked with my son who is more familiar with the Ford than I am and he said the hose from the filler neck goes down below the oil pan and goes into the air (no connection to anything) it is just there to relieve any crankcase pressure that may build up without any venting. The tie rod can be heated and he recommends Sea foam "deep creep" and work it back and forth to free it. You may have to use a fair amount of heat to get it to release. The serial number should be on the upper right or left hand side of the bell housing, stamped into the cast iron.


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