# JD 185 Blades Won't engage



## riden

I have an older machine, and am tryingto get one or two more years out of it.

Battery is fully charged.

When I hit the toggle, nothing happens. I checked out the wiring, don't see anything obvious. 

Any advice on what I should look for to troubleshoot??

What else do you need to know???


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## Live Oak

Welcome to Tractor Forum riden! Sorry to hear of your mower problems in the middle of cutting season. Definitely not a great time to go on the blink! :argh: 

There is a number of things that can come into play that can effect the function of the electromagnetic clutch to the mower on your 185. Safety lock out switches are first that come to mind. A piece of grit or grass stuck in the seat safety switch can block the activation of the mag clutch. This has happened on my F525 in the past. Be sure that all of your safety switches are operating properly. On my F525 there is a seat switch and a park/emergency brake lockout switch. 

Sounds like you have run the wires from the mower switch to the mag clutch and there are no broken wires. Double check and ensure the wire has not been rubbing on anything that could have caused it to short out as well if you have not already.

Have you checked with a voltmeter to verify if you are getting any voltage to the electromagnetic clutch itself? You should be able to verify voltage on and off with mower switch position. If you are NOT getting any voltage; go back and double check the above items for problems. 

If you are getting voltage the mag clutch is not actuating; then it looks like you may have a bad mag clutch. Below is a part diagram for the electromagnetic clutch. The Deere part # for the mag clutch is AM101564, this part appears to be substituted for by part # AM115091 which in turn has been updated by part # AM123123 which lists for $180.

180 AND 185 ELECTROMAGNETIC PTO CLUTCH  

Hopefully this is a safety lockout switch or broken/shorted wire issue and you will not have to replace the mag clutch. 

Anyhow, hope this was of some help to you and gets you looking at the problem. That clutch is really expensive! :duh: By chance, have you washed the mower recently or has it sat out in some rain?


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## treed

On some electromagnetic clutches, there's an air gap that can be adjusted. If your clutch has 3 bolts, that's the adjusting points. If you have a service manual, there will be a section on adjusting these with the proper air gap. On most cases, this is the cause of malfunctioning electromagnetic clutches.


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## Live Oak

Many thanks for the added info. treed! I will keep that in mind should I have any problems with the mag clutch on my F525. Very good information to have. :thumbsup: 

Great to see you posting again as well it has been awhile! Sure hope you will continue to be a regular participant and share your knowledge. Welcome back! :cheers:


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## riden

I did check the gap, it had to be adjusted and it still didn't work.

I am going to have to accept that it is the clutch I guess.

IN order to remove the clutch I need to hold the flywheel in place. The manual made mention of a hole for a pin????

Where is the best spot to clamp this in place??


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## Live Oak

I don't have a manual for the 185 so I will throw out a few ideas that come to my mind about how to go about this. The flywheel is a very delicate and EXPENSIVE part to be working with. The flywheel also serves as the air cooling fan for the engine and has some cast aluminum fan blade fins which are not diffucult to damage. My first advice is to carefully follow the manual. 

I think if I were approaching this task; I would remove the mower deck and drive the machine up on some automotive type ramps to allow me some room to work on the mag clutch. It appears that the mag clutch is secured to the crankshaft via woodruff key and a bolt. I think I would try removing the bolt with an air impact gun. Using a six point impact socket should allow you to gently back out the bolt and remove the mag clutch. You may need some type of puller to remove the mag clutch assy. after removing the bolt. 

Reversing the assembly sequence will indeed require some means of holding the flywheel in place. The below parts diagram does not show any provisions for a locking pin. You may have to take a look in this area and determine if you can have someone hold the flywheel in place with a plastic or soft metal wedge. (I hate to suggest a screw driver :duh: ) I would NOT use the cooling fins in any way. This is where you will have to be the judge as to implementing some type of method to hold the flywheel in place. Below is a diagram of the flywheel and associated parts for some reference.

170, 175, 180 AND 185 CYLINDER HEAD, BLOCK AND FLYWHEEL  

Perhaps the nut or fastener securing the flywheel can be used to hold the flywheel while you torque the new mag clutch in place. Be sure to determine (either from you manual or call and ask a local Deere dealer service tech) if locktite is required on the bolt securing the mag clutch bolt. This would also be a great time to ask about the best method of holding the flywheel while you have the tech on the phone. My Deere dealer has been very good about helping me out with advice such as this over the phone. 

I wish I could be of more help here but I have never worked on this particular model Deere and my experience has been more on larger model tractors and equipment. I am sure some of our other Deere owning and more experienced members will jump in and offer their ideas and experience as well! Hope this helps you and be sure to keep us posted on how this project progresses.


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## riden

My problem is when I turn the bolt, it easily just turns the crank as well.

The manual is no help, it just makes mention to installing a pin to hold it in place???? I don't know what that means and can't figure it out.


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## Live Oak

> _Originally posted by riden _
> *My problem is when I turn the bolt, it easily just turns the crank as well.
> 
> The manual is no help, it just makes mention to installing a pin to hold it in place???? I don't know what that means and can't figure it out. *


My thoughts would be the manual is refering to a hole in the flywheel or mag clutch assy. through which a locking pin (ie: a drift punch or some other piece of metal round stock of the correct diameter) is inserted to hold either the flywheel or mag clutch in place while removing and torqueing the new mag clutch in place. I would think the hole for the locking pin would be located on the mag clutch assy. You may have to have someone physically rotate the flywheel slowly while you observe the mag clutch assy. and/or the flywheel to see if any holes in either item line up with another hole in the engine block or other area on the mower frame that allow you to lock the mag clutch or flywheel in place. I would think you can remove the bolt holding the mag clutch assy. with a pneumatic impact wrench. I take it that you do not have one?


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## riden

I have one, I am just unsure it will help. It spins very easily on the crank, very little force is necessary.

But I will try it tonight.


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## treed

The issue of removing a pto clutch on a JD 185 came up before at weekendfreedommachines.org. Here's the thread link:

http://www.weekendfreedommachines.org/discus/messages/60944/79632.html

I haven't read the entire thread, so I don't know what info you can gleam from it, but I hope it helps.


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## DEERE180

*BEFORE doing all those ....*

Before doing all those wonderful suggestions that require some serious work PLEASE make sure that you have GOOD battery (new). An older battery that is "charged" may start the 185 BUT will not have enough juice to engage the clutch for the blades. I know because it happened to me. Repalced the battery and had NO PROBLEMS since.


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## Live Oak

Welcome to Tractor Forum DEERE180! Glad you decided to jump right in! Great suggestions and sharing ideas make a great place. I learn something new everyday about these machines!


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## lawnman tx

Get you a omhs meter. In all the manuals I have seen they show you how to test a clutch with a omhs meter. It may save you some time and money. I know that JD and Sears are drffirent ways to test. Listen to the old Chief he is right on the money of how to replace it. DO NOT USE THE COOLING FINS to hold the flywheel. Pull the coils back and use a rubber starp to hold the metal part of the flywheel. With the age of the engine please do not use a piston stop to hold shaft.


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## DEERE180

*Another suggestion*

Since Riden has not yet indicted success, let me suggest another way of checking the PTO/blade engagement.

Assuming you are good in basic electricity/circuits - you can remove the PTO switch connection and take the two wires from the PTO switch and "short" them together and see if the PTO engages.

Also, you can follow the wires from the PTO
and connect them direct to a 12V battery and see if it engages. If it does then you got a switch or a wiring problem for sure.

>>>Always try the simplest solutions FIRST to eliminate them before engaging in difficult and laborious taks.


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## nook102

*thank you thank you*



DEERE180 said:


> Before doing all those wonderful suggestions that require some serious work PLEASE make sure that you have GOOD battery (new). An older battery that is "charged" may start the 185 BUT will not have enough juice to engage the clutch for the blades. I know because it happened to me. Repalced the battery and had NO PROBLEMS since.


It was indeed the battery causing my problem. I needed a new battery for a couple years, been boosting it with my boat battery. I was about to give in and get it serviced but thankfully I read your post.
Thanks again.
Greg


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