# 1968 Ford 2000 Stuck in 3rd gear



## ctfford (Jul 15, 2011)

Hello all, I'm losing my mind!

Short story. 1 month ago started tractor and it ran fine, but tire on the trailer that the tractor was on had a flat. Repaired the tire went back 2 weeks ago and put tire on and got ready to go to the farm. Tractor would not start. Getting fuel to the sediment bowl, getting fuel to the carb, not getting fuel to the plugs. I transported the tractor to my house to rebuild carb. Rebuilt the carb put it on AND..... The tractor is stuck in 3rd gear. I put the tractor in gear before transporting it home (40 miles). Went into gear easily before bringing it home. Clutch pedal moves, shifter does not budge. If I try to crank it the starter tries to move the tractor forward. I would try to crank the tractor off the trailer, but I have a bushhog on it and the trailing tire of the hog is hanging over the front rail of the trailer. 
I does not make sense Transmission worked fine one day and again a week later, then after a 40 mile ride it is locked up. Is transporting in gear a no no? That is how my dad always did it before I inherited it. 

I got to get it out of gear to try to start it, I can't lift the bush hog without it running, can't get it off the trailer without the bushhog up. 

How do I get it out of gear???????

ANY HELP is Appreciated. I'll try to attach a few pictures


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

First thing is get the chains off, Most likely the transmission is loaded. If that doesn't work, you should be able to lift the bush hog with a long bar or pipe, or simply unhook it


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## ctfford (Jul 15, 2011)

Only strap on it is one I put on last night to try to pull it backward a little to get the load off of the transmission. it is the yellow one in the last picture. I also tied the clutch pedal down. I'm worried if I unhook the bush hog and "crank" it off the trailer and I still can not get it out of gear I'll be really screwed because I'll never get it back on the trailer. I can't rely on cranking it and starting it in gear because I just rebuilt the carb and do not know if it is set up perfectly. 

I'll unhook the hog and try to move the tractor again on the trailer. I just hate being out of cash and stumped on the fix. I will attempt to fix anything once, sometimes twice.

Thanks for the reply


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Try jacking up the rear wheels,and with the engine OFF,and theclutch down,have some one move the right tire,while you try to move the shifter.If that doesn't work,you'll have to pull off hte shifter plate,and set the shifter in neutral by using a pry bar.My uncle's used to do the same thing.It would bounce just right,and the shifter gates would trap the shifter between them.


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## ctfford (Jul 15, 2011)

Thank you all!!!!! I got it out of gear and it finally started. When I pushed the clutch in it did not seem to engage, but I got it into 1st gear (with a little grinding) and off the trailer whether I was ready or not. Drove it around the yard doing figure 8's but could not get it out of gear. I tried to take the play out of the clutch but that did not help. So is the clutch plate stuck? If so how do I unstick it?

Have several other issues that I'll post in other threads.

Again thank you all. I inherited this tractor and am learning as I go.


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

Could be the throw out bearing or just an adjustment.
It should be adjusted so that the pedal moves about 3/4 inch before you feel more than just the return spring tension.
Do you hear any strange noises when you depress the clutch?


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## ctfford (Jul 15, 2011)

ErnieS, Thanks again for the advise.

Before adjustment it had a good 2+" of travel. Now it is about 1". I was unsure is I could take to much travel out and mess something up. I'm confident I can get it back out of gear but this is one steep learning curve. Started out as a fuel issue and now I have spent 4 evenings messing with the gears. I still have the fuel issue to deal with as well as checking the valve adjustment (I know they had not been adjusted in 20+ years). This thing can be a bear to start and I always end up using starting fluid.


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## ctfford (Jul 15, 2011)

Extra question

My fuel line goes to the front of the tractor and around to the front left side and into a ????? *Is it a fuel pump?* I have learned that I was blessed with a Ford 2000 tractor built 09/22/1968 and apparently some things changed 09/1968 making parts more fun to get. I found a fuel pump for 10/1968 and up tractors, carb kit was the same thing, 2 to choose from up to 09/1968 and the other for 09/1968 and newer.


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## ErnieS (Jun 1, 2011)

That would likely be the fuel pump. There should be a line from there to the carburetor, hopefully with an in-line filter.
It sounds to me like a carb rebuild will help. Have you checked the points? a piece of fine grit wet or dry sand paper folded in half makes a great points file. You can open the points and slip the paper in between and put a bit of pressure on them while moving the paper back and forth. Once they're clean, check the gap and then find yourself a timing light and check timing.


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## ctfford (Jul 15, 2011)

Update on the clutch. I got the tractor out of gear again by cranking it and moving the shifter at the same time. I shifter goes smoothly into reverse with the tractor turned off, but will not shift into any other gear. Oh, it is a 4 speed I forgot to mention that earlier. Does this bit of info about it moving in and out of reverse mean anything? And can I over adjust the clutch? I've took off and turned the rod that goes to the front from the pedal about as far as it is going to go.


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## ctfford (Jul 15, 2011)

I'm charging the battery and I am going to try to start it again this evening. IF it starts and IF I get it in gear is there anything I can do to help free up the clutch?
Also If it is the throw out bearing, what kind of a job am I looking at? What kind of clutch does this tractor have? single or double?

I've been reading a ton of post and my head is swimming from information overload.

Thanks again for all the help.


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## ctfford (Jul 15, 2011)

Sorry for the long delay. 

Found a guy to work on tractor. Had to break it in half. Clutch was rusted up to flywheel and could not break it loose without breaking the tractor apart. 
Anyway, got the tractor tuned up and it starts super easy but requires that the choke be pulled out about 1/2 way. if I push the choke in it starts to sputter and pop. 
Also, when I put a load on it, like bush hogging, it starts popping, shuttering and carrying on and generally not having enough power. Is it running to lean? Can I richen up the mixture? The guy who worked on it is a long distance and I hate to make the drive again if it is something I can do. 

Lastly my 4ft bush hog is on it's last leg. I have found a 6 foot in real good shape for $300. Will a 1968 Ford 2000 3cyl, gas be able to power it?


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## Will158 (Oct 23, 2012)

*Clutch stuck on ford 2000 1967*

I have a 1967 ford 2000 with many of the same problems that you have faced. Just joined the forum and thought I would share my experience with this 67 monster. First it's a 67 3cyl gas with a frontend loader and power steering. About 3000 hours on it. same carb problems you have, same clutch problems as you had. Also inherited from my father who bought it new in 67. 
1 disconnect the battery Next time it gets stuck in gear or the clutch sticks try this it worked for me and saved a load of money and cursing. Assuming it will be off the trailer disconnect the saftey switch located next to the gear shift lever. 2. wrap the two wires together, then climb on the tractor and crank it and work the lever until you get it in neutral. Assuming the clutch is still stuck then do the following.
1. disconnect the battery, 2 . disconnect the starter and breather tube that goes to the carb. 3. get two cans of carb and choke cleaner and one can of liquid wrench and a decent sized screw driver. 4. Take the screw driver and move the flywheel about 6 teeth at a time and then take the carb and choke cleaner and attach the can to a small rubber hose and place direct the spray to the back side the flywheel where the pressure plate meets the flywheel. 5. Make sure the weep hole for the clutch is open so all the crude can drain out. 6. continue spraying and turning until you hae deliverd spray to the entire pressure plate and flywheel on the back side of it. Your finger will feel the pressure plate on the back side of the flywheel about 1/2 inch down the back side of the flywheel. Make sure you get the fluid onto the connection of the both. 7. Then turn the flywheel again spraying liquid wrench directed with a flexible tube onto the pressure plate where it meets the flywheel. make sure you move the flywheel around a complete 360 degees. Use the full can of liquid wrench. A tedious operation.
8. Replace the starter and all the wires, the air tube and wait for a couple of hours for the liauid wrenh to do it's magic. 
9. Get on the tractor and I suspect the clutch will still be stuck, put it in low gear and drive around and work the clutch. 
10. my clutch broke loose about 300 yards later when it put in 3 gear. 
11. work the clutch with brakes down until you get a good glaze on the pressure plate and the clean the flywheel.
12. then tie the clutch pedal down for the next several weeks till you feel that you have a good glaze on the pressure plate and flywheel.
13 assuming the clutch breaks loose reconnect the saftey startng wires next to the gear shift.

You mentioned you want a front end loader, don't even try to get one without power steering on the ford 2000 unless your godzilla. 
I have a 5 ft bush hog with a slip clutch on it, so make sure you get a slip clutch other wise you'll be stuck in gear all over again if it bogs down.

I Have the same carb problems you have, try cleaning/ replacing the points, distributor cap and rotor. The carb problem is most likely due to bad/old fuel or blocked filters in the tank or carb. Check the water collector behind the coil. Runs great with the choke half out since 1987 according to my fathers records. One of theses days I'll get around to working on the carb and clean the filter. If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Mine just took a swim in the pond and I put a lot of overdue maintenance in the electrical and mechanical systems of this monster.

Trust me you do not want to even try to break a Ford 2000 in half with a front end loader and power steering on it in half.

Sorry I wasn't of help this time but maybe this will help someone else save some bucks and frustration.


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## duke7595 (Jan 23, 2012)

INSTEAD OF ALL THAT WORK AND TROUBLE, GET A 2X4 PIECE OF WOOD AND MERELY ENGAGE THE CLUTCH.

It is a well used process for storage regarding anything with a clutch, what it does is separate
the clutch from the flywheel preventing it from sticking.

I use it on all my equipment when storing over the winter months.


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