# Ford 550 backhoe spewing radiator fluid when hot



## Jeff White (Sep 3, 2018)

i recently acquired my grandfathers old Ford 550 backhoe. I’ve been around farm tracors all my life but heavy equipment is new to me. It’s around a 1975-78. It sat for about 6 years before I got it. After greasing everything and checking the fluids I cranked it up and started working with it. It did great until an hour or so in and the radiator started spewing fluid out the bottom. I thought I was dead in he water. The next day I removed the hood, filled it up with water and cranked it up to try to identify the issue. No leak! Filled it up with 50/50 antifreeze and started using it. Used it for at least an hour before it happened again. Did the same thing again after it cooled off and was fine for 45 minutes to an hour. Any thoughts on what could be? It doesn’t seem to be a hose, I can’t really see exactly where it’s coming from. Just seems to be pouring out the bottom of the radiator area.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Could just be the overflow. Those older rigs piped them down alongside the radiator. Are you watching the temperature gauge to see how rapidly or slow it is actually rising before the overheat? Might just be the thermostat.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

thermostat like Hoodoo says or at worst some minor blockage in the core.
you could also remove the radiator cap and have the engine idling, watch in the filler neck for gas bubbles, you will have to keep the water level up in the neck to see the bubbles if there are any at all.


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## Guest (Sep 4, 2018)

Hello and welcome to the Tractor Forum. We have some very knowledgeable and experienced members and I'm glad to see the members are already helping. Keep us posted on your findings so far. Here is a link to Messick's parts breakdown which is identical to the Ford list. 
https://www.messicks.com/nhc/55592
It may help you see what you are dealing with.

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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Jeff,

The old Ford tractors have very good cooling systems, but they will push coolant out the overflow until an equilibrium is reached (coolant level about 1/2" above the core). If the fluid is about this level, there's no point of refilling as it will just push it out the overflow. That's just the way they are....

Just keep an eye on your temperature gauge.....it shouldn't go above mid-scale unless you are working it hard on a hot day.


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## Jeff White (Sep 3, 2018)

Thank you all. Sorry for the slow response, I had to play with it a bit again to diagnose based on your suggestions. The first problem is that the temperature gauge isn't working. when I turn the key on the needle moves left (to the cold side) but then it never moves. I've ordered a new sending unit (don't think that's what it's called) because I know it's important to watch the temp. 
The 2nd snag I ran into is that the two hoses that go to the cab heater (which I don't use because I'm in SC and it's 90 degrees out) busted and started pouring antifreeze everywhere. So, I took them off and I was hoping to just put plugs in their place since I don't need them. is that ok or do I need to get a hose and connect the two. circled the hoses I'm talking about in the picture attached.








I went ahead and ordered new radiator hoses and a thermostat which I'll change this weekend so I'll update you on if that fixed it. 
I was shocked at how affordable parts were! I'm starting to fall in love with this thing. It does an awesome job (when it's not spewing fluid) and seems like a fairly simple machine mechanically. 
Thanks again for your help.


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## Guest (Sep 7, 2018)

Especially if the hose can be replaced with off the roll hose and is attached with hose clamps, I'd just go ahead and replace that heater hose. Might as well have a whole tractor.


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## Jeff White (Sep 3, 2018)

Graysonr said:


> Especially if the hose can be replaced with off the roll hose and is attached with hose clamps, I'd just go ahead and replace that heater hose. Might as well have a whole tractor.


Well, I don’t really want to take the heater part apart to run it through the heater. The cab windows aren’t even on it anymore. It runs from the engine block through the heater core then back into the engine. BUT, are you saying that I should go ahead and get a piece of hose and just bypass the heater core and connect the two? I suppose that’d be easy enough. Was thinking they might be able to be plugged but maybe not. 


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## Guest (Sep 7, 2018)

I'm just in favor of not jury rigging a tractor But I see your point with your weather.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Your best bet would be to just do the loop like you initially were set to do. That'd be the quickest and easiest. The temp sensor is a sending unit by the way.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Hoodoo Valley said:


> Your best bet would be to just do the loop like you initially were set to do. That'd be the quickest and easiest. The temp sensor is a sending unit by the way.


In agreement, keep the circulation open to avoid rust buildup in the engine fittings.


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## Jeff White (Sep 3, 2018)

Awesome. Thanks everyone. Will do the loop, change thermostat, sending unit and hoses and see where that gets us. Will update soon. Thanks again for everyone’s input. 


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