# 51 JD "B" Tractor hard to start



## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Hi,
I'm new to the forum and need help. I inherited my grandfathers 1951 John Deere B tractor, cleaned out old gas and tank, lines and carbonator, new plugs (.030 gap) and points (.015 gap), new coil and coil wire and a new 6 volt battery. I got it running but it's hard to start, it's like it's not getting fire and I know it's getting gas too. It has the original Delco-Remy Magneto, I have ohm the plug wires and the new coil wire so I know they are working. 
Could it need a new condenser or any suggestions will be helpful. PTO and lift work good, it's been sitting for 7 years under the shed. The spark plug holes are marked 1 & 2 a are the wires and distributor cap, so they not crossed. My dad had it repainted and new decals about 12 years ago.
I just can't figure out why it's so hard to crank now as it never has been that way before. So any help will be greatly appreciated.















I have harrows, cultivator, grain drill, bush hog and fertilizer spreader with it also. 













This picture still shows the old coil and coil wire.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Welcome to the forum Donald. Sharp looking John Deere.


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## jd110 (Nov 23, 2015)

A few things come to mind you can check. What brand and number plugs did you install? I don't like champion plugs in the JD gas tractors any more. I prefer Autolite 3076. Where did you get your points? The ones now sold by Deere leave a lot to be desired. I prefer Echlin from NAPA. They are much better quality. Get a new condenser from them as well. On the coil, are you sure the polarity is correct? If you still have original generator, it should be a positive ground system as long as the battery is connected properly. That means the + side of coil should be connected to the distributor. One last thing, are the plug wires and coil wires the solid copper core type? Automotive resistance type wires don't work well on these old tractors either.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Thanks Hoodoo Valley.
Thanks jd110, Sorry it has taken so long to reply, my wife was diagnosed with lung cancer so we been through heck since I posted, thank God she is better now.
My plugs are Autolite 386, the points came from Steiner's Tractor Parts, The new and the old coil is marker + and - on the poles, plug wires are copper as is the coil wire. The book calls for Champion 8 com spark plugs, not available now.
I took the carbonator off and cleaned it good, blew out everything after cleaning with carbonator cleaner, float works good, cleaned the lift needle that works off the float (sorry don't know what it's called), cleaned the Idle and Load needles and reinstalled the carbonator. I can remove spark plugs and turn it over, good compression, but the #2 cylinder shoots a mist gas out but the # 1 cylinder doesn't. When it does crank it runs great, adjusted the idle and load screws also.
I put a new 700 cold cranking amp battery in it and it has to be fully charged before it will crank but the old battery was only 650 amps, can't figure out why this one isn't as strong as the old one. Checked the coil also, when cranking only getting 3.5 volt through the new or the old one also. I'll order a new condenser today also. 
Going to go through everything again today, first time I've has since Thanksgiving to spend with the old girl other than a few minutes here and there. But I was able to pick up some good used tires to go on my JD fertilizer/grain drill and fertilizer spreader, didn't need any on the JD cultivator since they are steel, LOL and the ones on the harrows are still good. Now if I can only get her back running right we back in business. 
Thanks for your help, I appreciate it more than you know.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Just a thought, did the tractor run with the old coil in it? You may get an issue with a new coil having an internal ballast resistor and the tractor having an external ballast resistor as well.
Glad to hear your wife is doing well.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

pogobill said:


> Just a thought, did the tractor run with the old coil in it? You may get an issue with a new coil having an internal ballast and the tractor having an external ballast as well.
> Glad to hear your wife is doing well.


Thanks pogobill, 
I bought the new coil when I couldn't get it to start at first, but since then I've had it running with both coils, thought I have put the old coil back on now as it seems to start better with it than the new one.
The thing with the gas coming out one cylinder and not the other one bugs me, looks like it would come out of both or not at all. It's not like it's a great amount just like a gas mist out of the # 2 cylinder. 
Thanks


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

run a compression test?


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> run a compression test?


Hi Groo,
Compression as best as I can tell since it was snowing and cold so I didn't spend a lot of time doing it, was 55 on #1 cylinder and 53 on # 2 cylinder. It might have been better if it wasn't so cold and if I'd taken more time. 
I pulled the battery after I was finished and took it in the house to charge up and will try it again once the weather corroborates a little better and the battery is fully charged up.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

the actual number has too many variables to make the numbers matter. the two are close. that is all that matters. seems unlikely that both cylinders would be equally messed up if that was the case. move onto something else.


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## jd110 (Nov 23, 2015)

I wonder about the possibility of a vacuum leak on the manifold since you are seeing no gas from one cylinder. Or possibly intake valve not opening properly. Might want to check valve clearances and watch valve action while running to be sure valve lift looks the same. Have you tried disconnecting one plug wire at a time while running? Sometimes on these old 2 cylinder engines, it can be difficult to tell if running on both cylinders. Unhooking on plug wire at a time should get the same tone change on each cylinder.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> the actual number has too many variables to make the numbers matter. the two are close. that is all that matters. seems unlikely that both cylinders would be equally messed up if that was the case. move onto something else.


Thanks, Groo, I'll check them again as soon as the weather allows me to, I know this it will suck you finger into the hole if you get it too close as it almost happen to me one day when I had one spark plug out and wasn't paying attention to what I was doing, sucked my thumb right into the hole before I got off the starter as I was moving the spark plug wire out of the way. Lesson learned. LOL Thank you for your help.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

jd110 said:


> I wonder about the possibility of a vacuum leak on the manifold since you are seeing no gas from one cylinder. Or possibly intake valve not opening properly. Might want to check valve clearances and watch valve action while running to be sure valve lift looks the same. Have you tried disconnecting one plug wire at a time while running? Sometimes on these old 2 cylinder engines, it can be difficult to tell if running on both cylinders. Unhooking on plug wire at a time should get the same tone change on each cylinder.


No, I have not checked the valve clearance, but I did check to see if # 1 spark plug was firing one day with a spark plug tester when my hand slipped of the rubber part of the plyers that gripped the tester and it bit me 4 or 5 times before I could get loose. Yes, it was firing all right as was the #2 plug, though I didn't have to go the that extreme on that one. LOL, it fired up going through me, the tester, plyers and spark plug, put the plug wire on using the plyers and it kept running all the same, no change in sound. I had my hearing aids in that day to so I'd noticed if it changed in the sound. It's fring on both cylinders when it startes and runs great when it starts, problem is if it will start. 
The orginial spaqrk plugs called for is Champion 8 com, cross referenced them to Autolite 386 but not sure if that is right or not according to Advanced Auto Parts personel.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

jd110 said:


> I wonder about the possibility of a vacuum leak on the manifold since you are seeing no gas from one cylinder. Or possibly intake valve not opening properly. Might want to check valve clearances and watch valve action while running to be sure valve lift looks the same. Have you tried disconnecting one plug wire at a time while running? Sometimes on these old 2 cylinder engines, it can be difficult to tell if running on both cylinders. Unhooking on plug wire at a time should get the same tone change on each cylinder.


No, I have not checked the valve clearance, but I did check to see if # 1 spark plug was firing one day with a spark plug tester when my hand slipped off the rubber part of the plyers that gripped the tester and it bit me 4 or 5 times before I could get loose. Yes, it was firing all right as was the #2 plug, though I didn't have to go the that extreme on that one. LOL, it fired up going through me, the tester, plyers and spark plug, put the plug wire on using the plyers and it kept running all the same, no change in sound. I had my hearing aids in that day to so I'd noticed if it changed in the sound. It's firing on both cylinders when it startes and runs great when it starts, problem is if it will start. 
The orginial spaqrk plugs called for is Champion 8 com, cross referenced them to Autolite 386 but not sure if that is right or not according to Advanced Auto Parts personel.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

jd110 said:


> I wonder about the possibility of a vacuum leak on the manifold since you are seeing no gas from one cylinder. Or possibly intake valve not opening properly. Might want to check valve clearances and watch valve action while running to be sure valve lift looks the same. Have you tried disconnecting one plug wire at a time while running? Sometimes on these old 2 cylinder engines, it can be difficult to tell if running on both cylinders. Unhooking on plug wire at a time should get the same tone change on each cylinder.


No, I have not checked the valve clearance, but I did check to see if # 1 spark plug was firing one day with a spark plug tester when my hand slipped off the rubber part of the plyers that gripped the tester and it bit me 4 or 5 times before I could get loose. Yes, it was firing all right as was the #2 plug, though I didn't have to go the that extreme on that one. LOL, it fired up going through me, the tester, plyers and spark plug, put the plug wire on using the plyers and it kept running all the same, no change in sound. I had my hearing aids in that day to so I'd noticed if it changed in the sound. It's firing on both cylinders when it startes and runs great when it starts, problem is if it will start. 
The orginial spaqrk plugs called for is Champion 8 com, cross referenced them to Autolite 386 but not sure if that is right or not according to Advanced Auto Parts personel.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

jd110 said:


> I wonder about the possibility of a vacuum leak on the manifold since you are seeing no gas from one cylinder. Or possibly intake valve not opening properly. Might want to check valve clearances and watch valve action while running to be sure valve lift looks the same. Have you tried disconnecting one plug wire at a time while running? Sometimes on these old 2 cylinder engines, it can be difficult to tell if running on both cylinders. Unhooking on plug wire at a time should get the same tone change on each cylinder.


No, I have not checked the valve clearance, but I did check to see if # 1 spark plug was firing one day with a spark plug tester when my hand slipped off the rubber part of the plyers that gripped the tester and it bit me 4 or 5 times before I could get loose. Yes, it was firing all right as was the #2 plug, though I didn't have to go the that extreme on that one. LOL, it fired up going through me, the tester, plyers and spark plug, put the plug wire on using the plyers and it kept running all the same, no change in sound. I had my hearing aids in that day to so I'd noticed if it changed in the sound. It's firing on both cylinders when it startes and runs great when it starts, problem is if it will start.
The orginial spaqrk plugs called for is Champion 8 com, cross referenced them to Autolite 386 but not sure if that is right or not according to Advanced Auto Parts personel.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

According to the sparkplug cross reference, the Autolite 386 or the Champion D16 would be correct.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

pogobill said:


> According to the sparkplug cross reference, the Autolite 386 or the Champion D16 would be correct.


Thank you, pogobill, good to know it works and the guy at AAP was right. 
Charging up the battery inside today and will try it again tomorrow. 
jd110, If I get it running I'll check to see if both cylinders are firing also tomorrow, like I said it seems to run well when it starts and has power also. I set the Idle screw at 1 1/2 turns and the load screw at 1 1/2 turns for starters as I haven't been able to test it yet, once I drop the harrows into the ground it will get it's first test. 
I'll also do another compression test to recheck the results, the ole girl doesn't smoke or anything like that when she is running and the oil level is good and clean (no water mixed in it). I got 6.25 volts off the generator when running also, so I know it works. I never checked the valve clearance on anything, so I'm have no idea how to start with that. Sorry. I wish it had a heater on it like my other tractor does, but it doesn't, would make starting a lot easier when it's cold. 
Thanks again to everyone, your help is greatly appreciated.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

If your coil has a resistor on it or on the firewall, remove it and see if you get 6 volts.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Well guys, I got the ole girl to fire off this morning, took a little while but she finally did. Tried with the choke open for about 5 minutes on and off, let it sit about 10 minutes then tried again with the choke closed and she fires off after a couple pf tries. 
jd110: Pulled one plug wire off at a time, no noticeable difference in sound or how it run, some but not a lot, run the same no matter which one I took off too. 
Let her run for about 20 minutes at different speeds before it started to rain, had to shut her down and cover her back up with a tarp. The rain got here before I could try another compression test. 
Did see something I'd never seen before, frost on the pipe coming off the carbonator, anyone got any ideas what that is all about. Pictures included. 
bbirder: I have no idea if it has a resistor on the firewall or coil, posted a picture of the coil, maybe you can tell me if it does or not. You would have to tell me where to look on the firewall to find it. I'm not a mechanic by any means so make it simple, LOL. 



















The first is one of the coil as I was drying out the distributor after all the rain, snow and sleet we had the last few days, 4 more days of rain coming in today too. The rubber band holds a plastic box I put over the distributor and coil when it's not being used to help keep rain out of them, I remove it when it running. 
The second picture is the frost on the pipe off the carburetor and the third is a few minutes after I shut it off as it melted. Never seen this happen before, the temperature outside was 45 degrees then too. 
Thanks fellows.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

fuel vaporizing will cool it down. I wouldn't worry too much about it.

ever change the condenser?


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> fuel vaporizing will cool it down. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
> 
> ever change the condenser?


Thanks, just never seen it happen before. No, the condenser was put on new about 2 years before it sit for 7 years, but I got one ordered to change it out. Thanks.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Donald,
check this site and you will see that a coil is available in 6v or 12v w/resistor. Are you sure there wasn't a 12V battery on that tractor? Someone could have converted it. The reason I suggest this is you were measuring 3V I think you said.
https://www.tractorjoe.com/parts/mt/tractor/b/john-deere/m/b/


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

bbirder said:


> Donald,
> check this site and you will see that a coil is available in 6v or 12v w/resistor. Are you sure there wasn't a 12V battery on that tractor? Someone could have converted it. The reason I suggest this is you were measuring 3V I think you said.
> https://www.tractorjoe.com/parts/mt/tractor/b/john-deere/m/b/


bbirder: We have owned the tractor since it was new and no 12 V conversion has ever been done to it, it has always been 6 volts as far as I know, the old battery I replaced was 6 volts also. 
I get 6.5 volts off the coil before cranking it then it drops to 2.5 to 5.5 volts when cranking according to my meter as it varies while cranking,when I checked it that day the battery wasn't fully charged as I'd been trying to crank it for a while too. That is connecting the positive lead to the positive peg on the coil and the negative lead to the negative peg on the coil. The coil in the picture is the old coil as it seems to crank better with it than the new one for some reason, now how old that coil is I have no idea. The new coil looks exactly like the old coil too. Thanks


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

Spark strength is much more important for starting than running. Just as a test, I might get another battery to put 6v to the coil. I suspect your battery voltage is just dropping too low to kick out a decent spark.
I know when I put the piggyback high power coil on my Deere, it starts incredibly better than before, and it wasn't bad before. I don't even bother with the choke any more.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> Spark strength is much more important for starting than running. Just as a test, I might get another battery to put 6v to the coil. I suspect your battery voltage is just dropping too low to kick out a decent spark.
> I know when I put the piggyback high power coil on my Deere, it starts incredibly better than before, and it wasn't bad before. I don't even bother with the choke any more.


Groo, believe it or not this is the second battery I've gotten for the tractor in 2 months, the first one was 650 CCA and it barely turned it over when fully charged, I returned it and went to Tractor Supply to get this one (700 CCA) and they had to order it, no big deal just 2 days. Not a lot of places carry 6 volt batteries around here. 
Do I need to go with more cranking amps?


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

Do you have a 6v battery charger? you could probably energize the ignition with that.

sounds like your starter might be worn out. I remember my car as a freshman in college. I had campus security give me a jump. when I turned the key, the power draw from my starter killed their car. A new starter made it so I wasn't always changing and jumping batteries.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I can't say if this is relevant, but I had very slow cranking on my 1300cc Venture motorcycle. After buying a new battery, that didn't help the situation, I did some research. I found that one of the problems might be a load of carbon dust build up in the starter from the brushes, causing the battery to be drag right down. I removed the starter and pulled it apart and cleaned it real good, getting rid of all the dust and grime. Put it all back together and reinstalled and the battery issue disappeared, and it cranks as fast as a new bike.
Just a thought.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> Do you have a 6v battery charger? you could probably energize the ignition with that.
> 
> sounds like your starter might be worn out. I remember my car as a freshman in college. I had campus security give me a jump. when I turned the key, the power draw from my starter killed their car. A new starter made it so I wasn't always changing and jumping batteries.


Groo, you could have gone all day without tell me that, when I read your post suddenly $$$$$$$ flashed before my eyes, could you not have said something to the effect "I think it's the right headlight bulb that only comes on when the battery is fully charged" or "it might be the fact you only got 3/4 of the positives wires in the battery connection terminal". Now doesn't those sound a whole lot better and cheaper. LOL
I sure hope not but it is something to consider, pogobill, just posted it might be carbon dust built up on the started brushes causing the battery to drag down, again something to consider. I guess I'd better look up where the starter is, bad to say that but it's true, never had a reason to find out before either. I got 3 day to figure it out as it suppose to rain through Thursday afternoon here. 
Hey I appreciate all the help everyone offers, I'm not even a good shade tree mechanic to be honest but I try hard.
Thanks again.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

pogobill said:


> I can't say if this is relevant, but I had very slow cranking on my 1300cc Venture motorcycle. After buying a new battery, that didn't help the situation, I did some research. I found that one of the problems might be a load of carbon dust build up in the starter from the brushes, causing the battery to be drag right down. I removed the starter and pulled it apart and cleaned it real good, getting rid of all the dust and grime. Put it all back together and reinstalled and the battery issue disappeared, and it cranks as fast as a new bike.
> Just a thought.


Thanks, pogobill, just telling Groo, it's something to consider and look at after I find out where the starter is on this tractor. Bad to say but never had any reason to look for it before. I got 3 day to find out as it's suppose to rain till Thursday afternoon here. Thanks, again.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

if it's like my 420, there is a metal rod I pull to close the contacts, so just follow the rod.
probably fairly easy to rebuild. not much to it save for brushes and a couple bearings.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

They may be on to something. Do you know a good starter shop near by. They could clean it dress the commutator and install new brushes if needed. Some of those old starters need heavy duty soldering. They did this by heating their irons with a bank of batteries. A dead short gets them hot almost instantaneously.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Thanks, Groo, no rod on ours.
I found a great post on Yesterdays Tractor on the checking the starter and everything on it too. While there I looked around and looked under serial numbers for JD Tractors, all my life I have been told it was a 1951, come to find out it's a 1950 model according to the serial number. Don't know if it makes much difference in ordering parts but good to know anyway. While I was at it I remembered I had the original sales recite that I had to dig up, bought Dec. 6, 1950 for a sum, of $1,625.24 including the tractor, harrows, grain drill and cultivators paid in cash, but it doesn't list a year for the model. 
bbirder, once I check it out if it needs to be worked on I do that, thank you.
But I also thought about something else. I remembered years ago the positive cable shorted out on the body after it wore a hole in it back in the early 60's, for some reason my dad shortened the cable where the battery terminal is just long enough to fit on the post, like I said in the other post only 2/3 of the wires will fit in the terminal connection as the rest are broken off to short to connect to the post. I'm thinking about buying a new positive cable to run from the starter to the battery to see if that could some how be the voltage problem. Not sure how hard it will be to pull one through with the old one either, might have to remove the starter anyway, if so once it's out I can take a better look at it. Don't know of any starter shops close but will be looking in the mean time. Thanks, give me another avenue to follow. 
My dad kept a Journal from the time he was in his early 20's till he had one stroke that left him unable to write in 2000, he wrote down what ever was going on that day every day at night, brought a tractor tire, sold 20 head of cattle, whatever, I might find something there about the cable, have to look and see as he would have written it down. When I say Journal I mean there are 5 of them, 60 years worth. I enjoy reading through them, brings back old memories. 
Hey, I appreciate all the help I can get and need it too.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

I am inclined to believe it is not a cable problem since the weaker battery acted significantly different, but a new cable certainly wouldn't hurt, if it is at least as thick as the one on there. My assumption of what is going on is that the battery is getting drained down when cranking (because the starter is drawing too much current) to the point that you don't have enough voltage for a decent spark. You could test that theory by checking battery voltage while cranking. If it is dropping low like the coil voltage, it is not a cable problem. If Battery voltage is staying high, it could very well be a cable problem. A band-aid fix would be to run a separate wire for the ignition to the battery. That wouldn't be a bad idea in general, but you should also fix the real problem regardless.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> I am inclined to believe it is not a cable problem since the weaker battery acted significantly different, but a new cable certainly wouldn't hurt, if it is at least as thick as the one on there. My assumption of what is going on is that the battery is getting drained down when cranking (because the starter is drawing too much current) to the point that you don't have enough voltage for a decent spark. You could test that theory by checking battery voltage while cranking. If it is dropping low like the coil voltage, it is not a cable problem. If Battery voltage is staying high, it could very well be a cable problem. A band-aid fix would be to run a separate wire for the ignition to the battery. That wouldn't be a bad idea in general, but you should also fix the real problem regardless.


Thanks Groo, I went out in between showers this morning and removed the battery so I could charge it up. I also removed the plate where the starter is. After reading my dads journal this morning I found where he replaced the starter in 1996 about 3 months before his first stroke and I was working out of town at the time and didn't know it. Before I reinstalled the battery I checked the ground wire and found it was corroded really bad, so I cleaned it up and reinstalled the battery. I checked the voltage at the battery and starter, both showed 6.52 volts, no cable problems. I decided I'd try to start it then, I pulled the choke out and it fire on the fire try but I didn't hold the starter down long enough and it quit, I tried maybe 15 seconds again before pushing the choke in and it fired off within 5 seconds. I drove it around about an hour at different speeds and gears to check it out and it run great. I cut it off and let it set for 30 minutes then tried to start it again, fired right up. I'm hoping it was only a ground problem. The rain started back so I had to leave it but not before removing the battery again so I could check it on the charger and it still read fully charged. I didn't get to put the cover back on the starter but did manage a couple of pictures I included. Please, give me your feedback on this.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

Even if the cable jacket was 100% in-tact, the nut is exposed right there anyways, so I wouldn't worry about it.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> Even if the cable jacket was 100% in-tact, the nut is exposed right there anyways, so I wouldn't worry about it.


Thanks, Groo.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Oh, The old bad ground problem. Sorry Donald. None of us suggested that but probably would have been the first place we checked if we would have the same trouble. It's all a learning experience. Next time that happens you will go straight to it.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

bbirder said:


> Oh, The old bad ground problem. Sorry Donald. None of us suggested that but probably would have been the first place we checked if we would have the same trouble. It's all a learning experience. Next time that happens you will go straight to it.


Thanks bbirder, I happen to notice it as I was removing the battery that it looked rusted and corroded. I knew it could be a problem too, but was focused on other things being wrong and never considered it till I seen it.
Now I can start trying to figure out why the temp. and oil pressure gauge doesn't work. Amp meter works good, I got a wire hanging out the bottom of the panel and no idea where it goes or were it come from. 
I appreciate all the help everyone has given me, I have learned a lot from yawl. Thank you.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Hi guys,
Well, the ole girl is starting much better now, I think if I had a better battery it would help too, the one I bought was a cheap no name brand, but it works. I put the new condenser in, put on a new water temperature gauge and it's working good, put new oil pressure gauge in also, but I need to connect the line to the oil sensor, but I have no idea where the sensor is. I have looked every where on the tractor and on line but can't seem to find any reference to it. I figure it was removed and a bolt put back in the sensors place, but where? If any one has a picture of where the oil sensor is located I would appreciate it and if anyone knows what sensor to buy also. 

That loose wire I mentioned earlier off the dash I found out what it was, Groo told me about running a wire from the starter to the ignition, well that is what was done, the loose wire was the one off the ignition that was cut into and left it dangling, so I just removed it and left the one from the starter to the ignition. 

Saturday, after the rain and snow stops I plan to grease the ole girl up, I know I got some fittings to replace or clean out too. I remember years ago hauling the old 5 gallon grease pump can around and doing the pumping as dad put the end on the zerk, as I got older I got to do the zerk and pump too, plus clean the excess grease off that squeezed out. Except now I got a grease gun run by compressed air, gotten lazy in my old age. LOL

Thanks guys, I appreciate all and any help you have or will give me, I'm getting there little by little with everyone's help.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Hi guys, 
Been a while since I last posted, been busy with other things but did spend a little time on my "Ole Girl" as I call her, got her running like a top but still a little hesitation when you open up the throttle, I think a little carb. adjustment will take care of that, I hope.
Replaced the copper line to the oil pressure gauge, now oil pressure is half way between M and H, also changed oil and filter, flushed out the radiator and refilled, now on to the Transmission fluid, will use 80w90 when I change it and plan on changing the Powr-Trol fluid also. It says use SAE30, is that the non-detergent or regular type or would it be better to use hydraulic oil? 
Spent about 4 hours Saturday bush hogging on her and she never missed a lick. 
Thanks again for the help.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

if it has historically had non-detergent oil, you want to stick with that. I would assume that is the case. Running detergent oil now would break chunks of sludge free and clog up stuff you would wish wasn't clogged. If you tear it down and clean everything real good, then go with detergent oil.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> if it has historically had non-detergent oil, you want to stick with that. I would assume that is the case. Running detergent oil now would break chunks of sludge free and clog up stuff you would wish wasn't clogged. If you tear it down and clean everything real good, then go with detergent oil.


Thanks Groo,
I'm not sure what was put in it the last time it was changed, but I'm going with the non-detergent oil to be safe, don't want all that sludge coming off and clogging up stuff. 
As long as she runs good I got no plans to tear her down at this time, she has been well cared for over the years, always had a roof over her head also. Any suggestions on the SAE 30 verses Hydraulic oil for the Powr-Trol?
Thank again.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

if it says use w30, I'd stick with that. I've heard engine oil is generally a higher quality base. You also don't want to be playing with viscosities.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo said:


> if it says use w30, I'd stick with that. I've heard engine oil is generally a higher quality base. You also don't want to be playing with viscosities.


Thanks, Groo, I wasn't sure since it operated the hydraulic cylinder was the reason I was asking but you right, no use creating problems for myself. I appreciate all the help everyone has given me, this is a great forum and great people willing to help those less knowledgeable like myself.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

just wanted to add, its not unheard of to see engine oil specced for hydraulic systems in newer equipment as well. Dad's Dresser TD8e from the late 80s calls for 10w30 in the engine and the hydraulics. I told him put the good stuff in the engine and the cheap walmart crap in the hydraulics.
When I was digging in deep into hydraulic oil (don't ask) I did see mention of new loaders speccing engine oil for desert conditions and the like.


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## Donald Mullikin (Jan 5, 2020)

Groo, I didn't know that, I've always used hydraulic oil in hydraulic systems, learn something new everyday. Thanks for the info. I ordered the 80w90 and the SAE 30 non-detergent today from Tractor Supply nearest me and will pick it up when it comes in, no one seems to carry the non-detergent any more around here. Thanks a gain, I appreciate all the help you have given me.


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