# No power poor throttle response. Rpms pick up slowly when starting



## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Hi guys I have a Ford 3000 It is new tractor to me. I think I have some type of fuel problem . It is bogging down,sluggish throttle response ,bogs going up a hill or bush hogging ,when it starts rpms go up slowly to idle , the longer it runs the worst it gets. It use to stall and have to get bled out to start. I already checked. Fuel coming out of tank. OK. I drained tank and replaced with fresh fuel and power service additive . Then I checked filters. Dirty and water. Replaced. Found second filter when removed just dripped so I removed assembled and cleaned found blockage between two filters helped no longer stalls and needs bled but all other problems remain . I am needing some advise at this point. Thanks


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

It is a diesel and it’s year about 69


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Also it does not smoke or have blow by


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Refer to the manuals tab at the top of the page, go to the Ford 2000-3000-4000 Shop Manual, then take a look at the type of fuel injection pump you have. If you have the Simms, it has a lift pump between the filters and the injection pump. If the diaphragm in that lift pump is failing you will have diminished power.

Also make sure your flexible fuel hoses are not ten years old, they get porous and allow air infiltration which leads to the symptom you describe. Same for the seals and drain cocks on the filters, if they allow air infiltration it is the same story.

If you have good fuel flow from the fitting at the bottom of the tank and bubble free fuel when you bleed the injection pump, and the problem persists, I would suspect the injection pump and fuel injectors are due for service.


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## Guest (Aug 8, 2018)

Hello and welcome to the Tractor Forum. 
You might consider putting your tractor in the Showcase (located under the TRACTOR button at the top of the page). A perk is that if you add your tractor to the Showcase, it becomes instantly eligible to be entered in our monthly tractor contest, in progress right now. Please be sure to add your vote for September's Tractor of the Month, which is found on the main Forum menu as the fourth category, listed as "Tractor of the month". The poll is at the top of the page. Thank you for your vote!


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

If you have a CAV injection pump, post back and let us know.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

No oil inside lines come off pump in circler pattern two lines come from filter. One goes to end of pump. One to the body of pump


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Talking rock said:


> No oil inside lines come off pump in circler pattern two lines come from filter. One goes to end of pump. One to the body of pump





Talking rock said:


> No oil inside lines come off pump in circler pattern two lines come from filter. One goes to end of pump. One to the body of pump


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Don’t know if this helps identify pump can’t get to serial # right now to identify what pump it is


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Injection lines coming off the pump in a circular pattern indicates a CAV pump. The Simms injection pump is an "inline" pump. See the attached parts diagrams to determine if you can identify the injection pump you have.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

It’s not the sims that’s for sure. The other two. Looks like it but can’t figure out what’s different of the other two. I see there is a smell screen #8. Looks like could be a problem


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

There's only one diagram for the Simms injection pump. The other two diagrams that you refer to are for the CAV pump. The small screen is what I think that you need to replace, but you have to be extremely careful not to get dirt into your pump. Clean the surrounding area thoroughly before pulling the small filter. One spec of dirt into your pump can cost you $$$.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

I would like to take the time to say thank you to everyone that has been helping me. When I get home I will change out the rubber hose fittings ,check out the vent on fuel cap ,replace the double filter mount to a new single filter less chance of air leak. And specially check out that little screen at the injector pump. I will let u know what happens. Be home Thursday I drive a big truck. From ga to Winnipeg Canada every week. So home time is. Limited.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

If you have a double filter like mine I would keep it. The first glass filter is a water separator and the second is the filter. Could save you a lot of headaches in the future


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

the first filter has a pit cock that I can’t find a seal for also when the fuel filter is off. And you turn fuel on it looks like the fuel is coming out under the top filter oring area that don’t look right to me maybe I’ll find a new double filter base


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Talking rock said:


> the first filter has a pit cock that I can’t find a seal for also when the fuel filter is off. And you turn fuel on it looks like the fuel is coming out under the top filter oring area that don’t look right to me maybe I’ll find a new double filter base


The second filter the fuel comes down from the center


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

https://www.ebay.ca/i/Brand-New-CAV...-EBPN9N166AA-/182986173436?_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1
Did a search and could not find a rebuild kit but the hole assembly is available 50$-60$ Canadian plus shipping 30-40$ . But if you look a bit more maybe find one with free shipping.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

If the filters were as bad as you say they were, the filter screen inside the pump is probably the culprit..
You GOTTA BE CAREFULL.. Remove the big nut {15/16}& washer.. remove the big spring.. NOW THE IMPORTANT PART> Hold down the "guts" w/ a small screwdriver & using a 90* scribe, feel around on the outside of the alum. hsg. & pull UP on the filter..
You HAVE TO HOLD DOWN the innards.. or you'll make more of a headache for yourself.. Once the filter is out, your free & clear.. Just blow-off the filter & reinstall..
Good luck & let us know how you made out.. TPG


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

I got that screen in the injector pump cleaned up it did have some trash in it. I also ordered a replacement double filter assemble like suggested. I am going to wait till the new filters to come in before I bleed it and try it out. No sense in doing that twice. It’s hard on the starter.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good.. glad you got it in & out w/ no problems.. Let us know how it all works out.. thanks..


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Well I’m still waiting for the new double fuel filter assembley I ordered from amazon. So I haven’t gotten to see if it’s fixed yet. Hope it’s there when I get back home I’m worried it’s the injector pump


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## Guest (Aug 19, 2018)

Another thought: I know my gas engined 2000 3 cylinder rpm is controlled minutely by the governor, IDK is it's the same for a diesel, but if you have a governor, what's it telling the engine to do?


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

I have seen after market pumps for about 500 bucks and have got some prices of rebuilding this one. 400 to 600.plus shipping two ways. Any advise about this ?


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

I haven’t noticed any govenor action. But I believe it is part of the pump. And I don’t think it is kicking in do to lack of fuel


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## Guest (Aug 19, 2018)

I believe your governor will be on the front of the engine and connected via a rod. Pulling rod forward should increase rpm, I doubt this is your problem, but it's easy to check. There's a member here "thepumpguysc" and if you contact him via private conversation, he can tell you how to check your injector pump and most likely be in a position to rebuild it if need be. Ok I see he's was on the thread earlier. Seems you've moved on from the filter problem you all were discussing.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Thanks for that info I will check it out


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

The gov. is part/inside the injection pump.. I'd be happy to discuss rebuilding your pump if you'd like.. just send me an email. {click on my screen name}


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Well I finally got the new filter housing and got it installed. So now I have good fuel coming out of tank all the rubber flex hose replaced and screen on injector pump clean I have been out there trying to prime it for about an hour and just came in to take a break. I know I have good fuel to the pump. But I am getting very little bubbles and or fuel. When I crack injectors letting battery top off now.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Went ou for another 45 min didn’t get anywhere run battery down again how much fuel should come out or bubbles hardly aanything thing is coming out


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Did u use the bleed screw by the pump name plate?
Its the double screw.. 7/16 body w/5/16 bleeder..
Loosen the 5/16 & spin the engine till fuel comes out, NO AIR & tighten..
Did you have to "assemble" your filter assembly?? Did you put the oring UP IN the filter head or ON the filter?? The oring MUST GO "UP IN" the filter head.. NO "ON" the filter.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Filters already on the new housing so I think it is correct. Yes First I did the bolt on top of filter then the 5/16 bolt on housing then went to the shortest injector line. And then the middle one then the back one. For about two hrs


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

I wonder if I messed up something when I cleaned that screen.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

As when I installed the new filter assembly the fuel supply. More then doubled


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

You need a totally bubble free prime, and the flow will be enough to vaporize the fuel at the injector end. If the filters, gaskets, hoses, etc are properly installed you will get a clean fuel flow at the 5/16 bleeder. If that has air bubbles, there is an air leak or restriction.

If the fuel is bubble free at the 5/16 bleed screw, and after it is tightened you have air bubbles of any form at the cracked injector pressure line when cranking, the pump is due for rebuilding.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Loosen ALL THE LINES AT the injectors.. NOT just one.. & spin the engine..
They can be a PITA to bleed..
IF you held the guts down when u cleaned the filter screen in the pump inlet, don't worry about it..
BE SURE & hold the throttle WIDE OPEN when trying to bleed the system or start it.. it makes a HUGE difference.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

No I didn’t have the throttle wide open. I will do that. Have to take another load to Canada. I will get back and try it again Thursday


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Talking rock said:


> No I didn’t have the throttle wide open. I will do that. Have to take another load to Canada. I will get back and try it again Thursday


I held the inerds down as I took out the screen then let go slid screen down it went all the way down when I took out screen the round pc that fits in the end of it was in the spring. Maybe I didn’t hold the inerds down right


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

When you pull the first spring the thin section of the check valve will be inserted in the spring, the smaller spring below holds it there. 

If the bleeding instructions from thepumpguysc does not do the trick, watch this You Tube for the first 13 or so minutes. There is a small spring in the bottom of the fuel inlet that has a cross wire on the top of it, watch for that. If that wire breaks, the pump will not prime.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

THAT video should be taken off the internet & burned.. It'll get u in more trouble than its worth.. U know the saying> information found on the web is worth exactly what u paid for it?? well, this is one of those times..
He calls every part by the wrong name AND "glazes over" the most important parts..
I do love the accent tho.. I cant make it thru the entire "show"..
OH.. & using a CRESENT WRENCH.!!! & using the "OPEN END" of the wrench?? I'da thrown him outta my shop.!! 
As far as the problem goes.. The small "pressure adjuster" that was IN the spring..
The LARGER taller end goes IN THE SPRING.. The SMALLER shorter end goes DOWN IN the "regulating sleeve." Hope this helps.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Yes that is the way it was in there does the spring sit higher then the housing before u start screwing on the cap. I am having a hard time reading the numbers on the tractor housing by the starter. And the pump some one painted it blue rrrr


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

No, not normally, the spring is down abit in the housing.. The only think I can think of is the "plug" is sitting on the side of the "pressure regulator".. not fully seated..
You can get some gasket/paint remover in a spray can from any parts store or wallyworld. THATS what I use.. it comes in handy for all sorts of things.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

thepumpguysc said:


> THAT video should be taken off the internet & burned.. It'll get u in more trouble than its worth.. U know the saying> information found on the web is worth exactly what u paid for it?? well, this is one of those times..
> He calls every part by the wrong name AND "glazes over" the most important parts..
> I do love the accent tho.. I cant make it thru the entire "show"..
> OH.. & using a CRESENT WRENCH.!!! & using the "OPEN END" of the wrench?? I'da thrown him outta my shop.!!
> ...


Illustration of the spring with the cross wire is all I intended. No one in their right mind would use his techniques and operate in such filth, but sometimes even a blind squirrel gets a nut.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Lol


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Thanks tpg I am going to take a look inside there again cause that spring was sticking up a little I pushed the cap down to get threads to start but it screwed in pretty easy after that. Maybe 1/8 It was up. Then blead it again if it doesn’t crank I will need directions on removing the pump and keeping in time. So I can send It to rebuild I just figured out the private message thanks.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Heck I don’t even know if it is in time now but it doesn’t really matter right now cause I know there is no fuel getting to injectors at this time of it is is not off much cause it did run


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

The removal is easier than most.
Shut off the fuel or pinch the line.
On the front of the engine is a small cover, right infront of the injection pump. Remove it carefully..
Its probably easier to pull the radiator hose..
Remove the 3-1/2" bolts.
DO NOT move the gear.. the gear stays put.
Now go to the inj. pump.. remove the lines & linkage..
On the corner flange of the pump, theres a timing line on the pump & some degree marks on the block..
The timing line prob. lines up w/ "0".. Make a note of where it is.
Now remove the 3 bolts/nuts that hold the pump on & done.. just wiggle it back.
Probably take u an hour.. Good luck


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

well I am pulling the pump the inspection cover is off and I am looking at 3 volts on the gear do I have to take them out


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Once the timing is indexed, and you have removed the front cover, you do remove the three bolts that hold the gear onto the pump shaft. The gear will be held captive by the timing cover so it can not skip time. The gear is indexed to the pump shaft so it will only go on one way when the pump is returned. Remove the three bolts that hold the body of the pump to the block plate and the pump can be pulled back and removed.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Well I decided to get new injectors and injector lines if I am going this far problem is I can’t read the numbers by the starter to get part numbers can anyone help me get the right parts I think it is a 69 ford 3000 with a cav pump


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## Guest (Aug 31, 2018)

here you go.
It's got the fuel system with your cav injection pump
https://www.messicks.com/nh/67519


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

I recommend you have whoever is rebuilding your injection pump also rebuild your injectors. That way you will have the latest updates for the diesel we get since 2007. A lot of the new injectors are NOS or English, and set up for fuel with higher viscosity than we can buy in the US today.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Up date. I sent pump to get rebuilt. He said it was full of mud and had a stuck plunger that he had to get a punch and hammer to get it out. In short it was in bad bad shape. With that much mud in pump it’s probably in the injectors to. Special thanks to T.P.G. When i get pump back I will let you all know what happens.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Well I know everything is 100 o/o from fuel tank to injector pump. Cleaned tank new pit cock new line to fuel filters new fuel filters and housing new lines to injector pump rebuilt injector pump. New injector lines I just ordered new injectors and seal kits from Steiner figured what’s 150 bucks more While looking into injector I talked to new holland / ford they said their injectors r out sourced (not oem) Steiner after markets r the same injectors So that’s what i bought for half the price. Any way can any one that changed out injector before give me any help ,pointers etc. what r the torq specs. I seen on you tube using vasoline to hold seals on while dropping them in. It should run after this lol I sure hope so anyways


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Up date. Ya. Hoo. It’s running great. It turned out the injector pump was in really bad shape. I had The Pump Guy rebuild my injector pump. I am so glad I did. The pump came back looking like new. He saved me a lot of money. And he was very patient with all my questions and answered every one of them. The same day he received it he tore it down and let me know he got it and what was wrong with it with in a week of me taking it off the tractor it was back on and working great. The fact is it’s hard to get service like that anymore. I couldn’t be any happier. I am so glad I private messaged him about my pump rebuild

Thank you.


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

What is the rpm range of this ford 3000 tractor


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

2200 hi idle no-load..
I told ya I jacked it up.. lol
Low idle is 600-650 but a lot of people put it where they want it.. some lower, some higher..


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## Talking rock (Aug 8, 2018)

Ok I got it at about 750 or 800. The tractor Is new to me. I just didn’t know the rpm range the engine was designed to run at about 700 to 2200 max. I am thinking It’s running great by the way. Thanks to The Pump Guy


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

2200 is "no-load" rpm.. expect 10% drop when fully loaded.. 1980rpm.
Feel free to adjust it SLIGHTLY to get that rpm BUT make darn sure your tach is accurate.


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