# Charging circuit



## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

Hey guys, new to the forums, I have a Craftsman model 917.255440 With a newer 15 HP B/S engine. My problem is that I have completely replaced the ignition switch with a toggle and a push button to start/stop, and I want to hook up the charging circuit from the engine to the battery. what I want to know is will it be an issue if I wire it directly to the battery, or should I have it on a switch so its only connected when the engine is running?
Here is an image of the wiring diagram: 









Thanks
-JoeKP :usa:


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

As long as your diodes are working correctly in the voltage rectifier/regulator, hooking the output line of the R/R to the battery (or to the battery side of the starter soleniod) should be fine. That's how some OEM's do it. If your battery drains in storage hooked like that, then the diodes are getting bad. You can install a diode in line to be sure, but I would try it first to see if you even need to bother. You would hook the red wire from the "Charging System Output" to the positive terminal on the battery or simply to the starter solenoid where the battery cable attaches.


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

Yep, I did that and its seeming to work fine, im also replacing the battery tonight, if it doesent start on the first turn over or 2 then the battery is completely drained, it doesent want to hold a full charge any more


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

Swapping the battery now:


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

Im sure this didnt help either... 

[


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

I just went out and wasted 25$ on a new battery, I am not happy, I had 3 around here and they all wont hold a charge!


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

You might be better off buying a more expensive battery, as you will probably get more life out of them. I replace the Fleet Farm batteries a lot a work and I install an Interstate or Northern Battery (local company) unit in place of them. The cheap batteries don't have the construction that the nicer ones have, and they simply don't last as long. Just my experience, anyway. Folks around here average 2 years on a Fleet Farm battery, and about 5-7 years on an Interstate one. With all the lights you have on that tractor, you'd probably want a 350-450 amp battery for extra capacity when running your lights.

Anyway, I'm glad you got your tractor back in operating order. Nothing's worse than having to jump start the tractor every time you want to use it.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Country Boy said:


> You might be better off buying a more expensive battery, as you will probably get more life out of them. I replace the Fleet Farm batteries a lot a work and I install an Interstate or Northern Battery (local company) unit in place of them. The cheap batteries don't have the construction that the nicer ones have, and they simply don't last as long. Just my experience, anyway. Folks around here average 2 years on a Fleet Farm battery, and about 5-7 years on an Interstate one. With all the lights you have on that tractor, you'd probably want a 350-450 amp battery for extra capacity when running your lights.
> 
> Anyway, I'm glad you got your tractor back in operating order. Nothing's worse than having to jump start the tractor every time you want to use it.




Yep I agree I went to TSC, and got one of the Briggs & Stratton batteries its 350 cranking amps for $42..


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

A diode is always going to have some reverse flow.
IF everything is working great, it's a negligible amount.
But what happens if the diode happens to short when no one is around?
It's unlikely to happen, but I think there's a reason the key switch disconnects the stator windings when OFF.


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

Alright. So just incase. I will add a switch to it. And. I do intend to get a better quality battery. Right now. I did find another battery. So the new one is still not installed. The one in it now is a sixty $ battery. That has served me good for the past 4 years. I'm giving it one last shot before I toss it. And it is seeming to hold a charge. But right now all my projects are on hold. I burnt my hand pretty bad a few days ago. It's been a trip to the dr everyday since it happened.


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

i put the new battery in, and it didnt seem to hold a charge either, and all i did was put it in, move the tractor outside. did some stuff with the push mowers, and went to pull it back into the garage, and it took a few tries to get it going. could it be the cold? was only 40 degrees today,


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Sounds like you have some kind of parasitic draw??

Try disconnecting a battery cable and see if that prevents a discharge, while it's sitting.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Sounds like you have some kind of parasitic draw??

Try disconnecting a battery cable and see if that prevents a discharge, while it's sitting.


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

Alright. Maybe I'll add another switch or 2 to cut anything I have attached to the positive side of the battery


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Besides the diode on the output side of the alternator, there "shouldn't" be anything else hooked up that would draw 12V.
Have you added anything?
Is the TOP of the battery clean? A "filthy" top can allow current to leak across, but if you got a new battery, that shouldn't be a problem.

Before adding more switches, I just see if disconnecting the battery cable makes a difference.

IF you have a Voltmeter, you can put it in AMPS mode and put the leads in SERIES with one of the battery cables & battery to see if there is any draw.
Start on the highest amp range first, and then work down.

One other thing-*
Have you given the battery a FULL charge initially? *
The charging circuit only puts out 3 AMPS at HIGH engine speed. It'd take around 10-12 hours of running to fully charge a dead battery.


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## JoeKP (Feb 23, 2012)

Bill Kapaun said:


> Besides the diode on the output side of the alternator, there "shouldn't" be anything else hooked up that would draw 12V.
> Have you added anything?.


I'm always adding things. But they are all on switches




Bill Kapaun said:


> Is the TOP of the battery clean? A "filthy" top can allow current to leak across, but if you got a new battery, that shouldn't be a problem.
> 
> Before adding more switches, I just see if disconnecting the battery cable makes a difference.


Yes. It's a new battery. But the old batteries I used were clean too. I always kept them clean



Bill Kapaun said:


> IF you have a Voltmeter, you can put it in AMPS mode and put the leads in SERIES with one of the battery cables & battery to see if there is any draw.
> Start on the highest amp range first, and then work down.


I Will try it when I get out of the docs office and get home. 



Bill Kapaun said:


> One other thing-
> Have you given the battery a FULL charge initially?
> The charging circuit only puts out 3 AMPS at HIGH engine speed. It'd take around 10-12 hours of running to fully charge a dead battery.


Yep. Did this with all of them. I left them over night on the charger. 
One didn't hold at all and dropped to 4 volts. The others kept 12v until I tried starting the tractor. Then it would drop to 5-7v. Then back up to 11-12v


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## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

Hello,
Perform the amp draw test as others have suggested. As for the diode, if it blows, current flow will stop in any direction. You will want to spend more on batteries than $25-40. The cheaper batteries don't have as many lead plates in them or they are simply thinner. You will be able to feel the differance just in the weight of a good Interstate or Die-Hard. Also, is your charger a good one or a cheaper no name brand? You can cook a battery to death with a cheaper charger! Also, if the older batteries are weak(low specific gravity) and left in the cold, they will freeze. Once this happens, they are done!!!
Best of luck to you...
Cedar Mill Bumper and Hitch
Custom Tractor Bumpers and Hitches


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