# New injectors



## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Hello all,

I have been working with my Ford 4000 diesel and have two of the three injectors and when the third comes in I will be installing them. 
They came with new overflow fuel line screws and copper washers but I had to pick up the large copper valve washers and cork seating washers. 

I think I got every thing I need, any one think of something I may have missed or any installation suggestions?

Does anyone know the torque values? 

Thanks,

OMF


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy OMF,

I am anxiously awaiting your report when you get them installed. My bet is that it will run much better.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

If I remember correctly the retaining nuts on the injectors are torqued to 10-15 lb/ft.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

The new injectors have arrived.

Its to cold and rainy to install them till Saturday but getting closer to the start day.

Any last suggestions?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Tighten them down evenly.. leave the lines loose & crank the engine until fuel squirts out THEN tighten.. and off you go.. after running the engine & getting it warm, check for leaks.
Good luck..


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

I replaced an injector on my car. Do you gave any high temp ceramic grease to coat the outside of the injector? If you have a leak, you will need to clean the injector bore because it will have burnt diesel and carbon deposits in it. For thus I use acetone and small bottle brush in a power drill.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I've never heard of coating an injector with anything,before installing it,...other than diesel fuel,that is.
Car engines are much different than diesel truck/tractor engines.

By the way,....the small bolt,on the top is for bleeding them.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

The ceramic grease prevents corrosion from forming between the injector and the bore wall. Makes for easy removal and eliminates the need to ream. When I said car engine, it was a little more than that - it's an SUV 3-litre V6 and a widely used commercial truck engine. The grease is a little pricey at about $20 for a couple fluid ounces but unless you're swapping injectors everyday, it will probably last you a lifetime. 

I'm a stickler for details and preventative maintenance, so maybe it's a little more than most people would do, but preventing a seized injector makes it worth it in my mind.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Its VERY COMMON to coat the outside of the inj. body w/ anti-seize.. its a paste that prevents the inj. from becoming frozen in the head.. just google, anti-seize or never-seize.
How were they coming out?? easy? IF they are already in, don't worry about it.

I'm very well aware of what Anti seize is,.... having worked on Wheeled and tracked vehicles,as well as commercial tractor-trailers for over 25 years.
However we never had to use it,since we never handled the injectors with bare hands.
So, the most we did was dip 'em in fuel,...and never had one stick.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Well I did it, I changed them out and it went fine.

I got the new ones in and torqued them to specs not a problem till I tried to start it. NO GO. NO START.

I have been told there are some fins(4) in the CAV i should remove and the mechanic said I should bring them in for him to compare to new ones.

He said it is easy and i wont need a masters to remove or replace them if need be.

Any ideas?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

You better steer clear of that "mechanic".. He's talking about the transfer pump blades inside the inj. pump & there are only 2 NOT 4.. 
Let me guess, he wants you to take off the back end plate, 4- 5/16" screws, & bring him the blades?? Heck, I'll give you the measurements if you REALLY want them.. I have several packs of them.. Its not going to solve your problems tho.. The blades rotate inside a transfer pump liner, basically its a vane pump.. IF the blades are worn, so isn't the liner & changing the blades w/ a worn liner aint gonna do squat.
Did you do a compression test while the injectors were out? There is also a hidden filter inside the end plate under the big 15/16" inlet nut.. which causes ALOT of starting problems.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

I did take the blades into him and he thought a blade might be broken. but you are correct, the blades are worn a little but not enough to make any difference.

I have taken the end plate off and going to take into him tomorrow to inspect it. It has metal flecks in the filter and some kind of red mareial that looks like a gasket of some kind that got torn up.

Any suggestion or comments about the pictures?

Thank you for your help.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Has the fuel tank been "lined".. I see that stuff all the time.. look inside the fuel tank..
Its a rubber coating people put inside a leaking fuel tank.. that's what it looks like to me..
If you can feel any grooves in the aluminum endplate, replace it..
Take the transfer pump liner out & look for grooves where the blades ride.. PAY ATTENTION to the orientation..
That red goo in the 2nd pic.. looks like someone didn't have the paper gasket that goes there & put some gasket maker..??


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

The fuel tank was drained and cleaned but not coated. There was a lot of gel and crap in the tank, but since been cleaned. 

What about the gasket type/metal piece that is on the end plate?

How hard is it to remove the liner?

When i removed the blades I did not pay attention to the orientation, do those matter?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

The liner just pulls out w/ needle nose pliers BUT has a cutout for the roll pin in the end plate.
AND SOME have a big cut out that goes to the inside for self bleeding.. its very noticeable if you have it..
The blades go in, cut out UP on the first one, cut out down on the 2nd. 
I see metal shavings all the time in those hidden filters.. SOMETIMES its from the inside of the injection pump.. the return fuel goes back to the tank & gets recycled back thru the filters..
Looking at your pics, especially the one of the transfer pump regulator w/ the gasket maker on the bottom of it, makes me think someone w/ no experience was inside the pump.??
BEFORE I went any further w/ the pump, I would get a compression test done..


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

any ideas where i can get a tester?
and does it take a special one?
due diesel and gas ones work the same?

The hose goes in to the injector hole?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

It does take a special adaptor, looks like an injector w/ the guts taken out & has a fitting on it to put a gauge.. & you put it in the hole where the injector goes.
A gas compression tester WILL NOT work.. the gauge only goes up to 150 psi on a gas tester & a diesels compression should be over 300 psi.. it will blow up..
They might rent them at the Ford tractor place OR Advance auto parts store.. Take an injector w/ you when you go..
I have the Harbor Frt compr. tester kit, # 46800 & has all the adaptors & gauge for most engines..


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

On the tillage blades does the first blade go horizontal or vertical with the cut side (opening) up? or not mater just so the last(2nd) blade showing is solid, cut side down(in)(not showing)?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Doesn't matter.. either or.. 1 up, 2 down..


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Well had it going for about 3 hours. once I got it started it ideled fast, even at no throtle.

After about 3 hours it started to sound like it was running on 2 cylinders then about 5 min later it died. It started raining shortly after that and has not stopped raining yet. Tomorrow I should be able to check it out.

Any ideas on what to check?

I thought I had it licked but the Karma guru said nope. Well i dont know about karma but some guru is testing me.:lmao:


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

If it ran for 3 HOURS & then died.. it has to be fuel supply..
Rig up a remote tank.. to AND from, the injection pump.. just run the return hose back into the can/bucket your feeding it from.. cuz more fuel is returned to the tank than the injection pump uses..
By doing this you'll bypass, the fuel tank, the outlet screen IN the tank, all the lines and filters.. IF she stays running you'll know its NOT the inj. pump.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

When this mess started I emptied the tank, 
cleaned it, 
replaced tank filter, 
replaced fuel filter, 
replaced fuel line going into CAV,
and fuel over flow line going back into tank. 

That's why I am confused and frustrated. 

But your right, I must have missed something.

Its drying up today so I will try and work on it.

I will let you know what happens.


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

OMF,

It may be as simple as a plugged vent in your fuel cap? The tractor will run till a vacuum builds in the tank to the point that you don't get enough fuel.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Harvey.. that sounds reasonable.. just run it w/o the cap on the tank..
its the 3 hrs that's got me puzzled.. Other than something floating in the tank OR the shut off lever vibrating to the sh-off position.. I'm out of ideas.. 
IS there a spring on the sh-off lever, holding/helping it stay open??
90% of the Fords have a helper spring connected to the small hole on the sh-off lever & connects to the small hole on the throttle lever OR is hooked to a spot on the engine block..
The springs were light and the hooking coil broke on a lot of them.. never to be hooked up again..
When diagnosing this time.. bring it off of idle slightly.. say 1200 rpms and let her run..


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

I see a helper spring for a gas but not the diesel. Mine is a diesel.
I looked at messick parts diagram and cant find one either.

My gas cap is not the stock one and fits but not tightly.

I'm charging up my battery now and will go out in a few and check on things.

thanks,

OMF


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Well all here is a update on my Ford 4000.

I couldn't figure out what could be causing all the strange problems. 

Harveyw And Thepumpguysc mentioned it may be something to do with fuel, but I thought no way I just 

cleaned the tank, 
replaced fuel lines, 
replaced fuel filter, 
replaced injectors, 
adjusted timing, 
replaced diesel fuel. 

I figured I did everything I could thank of so it had to be something major, right? 

I decided to started from scratch before I throw in the towel and sod it for parts.

I drained the fuel or i tried to. 
I took the lines off of the shut off and no fuel came out. :dazed:
I stuck some weed whacker line in the petcock and whoosh came the fuel. Some how junk got into the gas tank and Jared the filter off and plugged the line so badly not a drip of fuel came out even with pressure. 

So now I have the tank off and taking it to the wash and go to pressure spray the tank. 

After that I will reinstall it and make sure all fuel get filtered before and as it goes in the tank.

Some of the smallest things can make the biggest problems.

Wanted to update you all..

OMF:tractorsm:tractorsm


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

I knew it.. WE ALL knew it.. BUT, its persistence that pays off.. Lol
"sometimes" you gotta see it with your own eyes.. Lol
Hope it works out for ya.. TPG


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

On the up side you sure learned a lot about your tractor. Not a total loss.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Your right you all knew it and I even knew it but when you pour so much time and money into something and it leads back to something you already did its kinda hard to swallow. 

How sand and grime got back into the tank I will probably never know.

I did find a petcock with a screw on filter at tractor supply. It was $15.00 but with it screwing on I know it wont fall off like the OME filter. 

Took the tank and got it power sprayed and now its looking good. 

Waiting for it to dry then I will try to put it all back together. Its hard to work on since the steering wheel is rusted on. 

Its so bad that when i replace it I might have to replace the steering down to the gear box.

Keep you updated.

OMF


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

*update*

While waiting with anticipation I thought I would let everyone know what is going on with my tractor.

I bought a new fuel shut off with a twist on/off filter and found out the new shut offs are not beveled witch makes it extremely difficult to not cross thread the threads of the tank and valve, also the new valve had the fuel line threads only threaded half way in witch is about 2 turns and that amount wont seal the fuel line and it would leak. 

Every time I go into town it cost about 8.00 in fuel and my time so I decided since there was no other problem with my old fuel shut off valve except no filter I would drill and tap it to fit the new screw on filter. 

1 hour later I am done and it looks and fit great. 

Now I crank it over and hear " " nothing.

Check the battery and its not holding any type of charge.

Ok fine I replace the battery after I check the cells and make sure the battery is dead.

Now I got the battery in and I turn the key and "click" "click". 

Take off the starter and test it. 

Bad. 

Thank goodness its under the year warranty and they replace the part. 

Thats where I am today. 

Tomorrow its supposed to be dry and I can try it out.

I will let you know.

OMF


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hang in there OMF, you are going to win this battle! And we are all cheering for you!


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

*thats better*

ITS RUNNING ITS GOING, I dont want to stop it.

Thanks for all the support and help you all.

thank you.

It turned over and started with the first click of the key. Having a good battery and fuel does wonders.

now I have to fiqure out why the coolant and where the coolant is a dark color and leaking from. and why the rear end sounds like its grinding when going up hill. but all thats for another day and post.

thank for your support and help all..

thank you,

OMF:tractorsm:tractorsm:smiles:


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

*spoke to soon.*

If some one hears a explosion from KY its just me.

After using it for a couple of hours I let it set for an hour or two and decided to brush hog.

So I turned the key switch and it turned over and over and over till the battery was dieing then it finally started. 

After an hour I stopped it and in hour later again it did not want to start and did not.

When I first put the battery in it started right up even after sitting 2 nights. I turned the key and it turned over twice and didn't miss a beat. started better than my car. 

If air were getting in, wouldn't it have gotten in when it sat for 2 days?

If timing was off wouldn't it run rough?
:night:


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Now I am confused,:dazed:

I went out and it started right up with out a glitch.

It ran for a few minutes, I stopped it, checked fluids and then it started right back up. without hesitation.

Seems to be doing its job now. so thank you and I will consider this a success.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Wanted to give you an update.

I think I got her going.

When I use her every day she will start with out if any fighting, but if I ignore her for a couple of days she argues with me about starting but seems to finally start just about when the battery is about to give in.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy OMF,

I suspect that your engine's compression is marginal. Here's my guess.......When you run it every day, the rings stay oil-wet, and compression remains satisfactory. When you let it sit for a few days, the oil drains off of the rings and compression falls to sub-detonation conditions. Then you have to crank it for a while to get some oil back on the rings to develop enough compression to detonate. 

A BIG battery will crank the engine faster and aid starting. Also, a little shot of ether will help a well-worn diesel start.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

I dont like it but that does make since. thanks


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