# Troy Bilt no start- help!



## Tylerz71

Hey guys, new here. Bought a used 2009 Troy built 42" riding mower with briggs 17.5 powerbilt mower. At first it had a solenoid type problem where it would just have a dead click most times but would turn over every 5 or so key turns. After one mowing it wouldn't turn over as if it doesn't have enough voltage to the starter. Bought a new battery, it's over 200cca. Same issue happens now. Cleaned all connections and grounds. Battery has 12.3v. However, checking with my volt meter I am only getting 6v at the starter during cranking. Here is where I am puzzled. When I jump the starter directly from the battery it acts the same way, which makes me think it needs a starter. I can't afford to throw any more parts at it, as I paid $550 for it already. I hope this is the right place to post and maybe y'all can give me some insight. Thanks


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## Thomas

Shot in the dark,but have you check grounding?


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## Tylerz71

Checked resistance from batt neg terminal to solenoid base ground bolt and found very little resistance. Thats the only ground i checked. When spark plug is removed it'll spin over slowly but with it in just doesn't have enough power to overcome compression stroke.


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## ftorleans1

Run a set of jumper cables from the battery straight to the starter. Ground from battery to case of starter. If the starter still drags when you touch the positive jumper cable direct to the positive battery cable stud on the starter, You have a bad starter. If it cranks as it should, You have a bad ground connection between the engine and tractor frame. If you don't see a ground wire pigtail going from the tractor frame straight to the engine block, someone may have removed for whatever reason?...


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## Tylerz71

I did the test earlier with jumper cables, only I grounded it on the engine block instead of the starter body. It sparked and melted the cable clamps a tad but still wouldn't turn over a whole stroke. I'm thinking starter as you said but if that's the case why am I only getting 6v to the starter positive while cranking? I am better with cars than mowers for sure and don't know their electrical system completely lol


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## ftorleans1

It's always possible you have a bad starter solenoid along with a bad starter however, If the starter won't spin up quickly with jumper cables straight from the battery, The starter is most likely the culprit. Question, Did you check the "state of charge" of the new battery?


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## Tylerz71

Under load, no. It had 12.3 sitting there though. And it's the second new batt because the last one was 180cca and I assumed it was too small or bad. Thank you for the help though I guess I need to see where I can get a decently priced starter now


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## okenadie

Sounds like the same problem I have run into a lot lately. The problem isn't with the starter at all. If when you take the plug out it turns over easily. Then you have a valve problem. I have done at least 6 of these in the last couple months. The exhaust valve is the one that releases the pressure so it can turn over and start. What I have done is take the valve clearance down to about 0.03. Seems that the lobe on the cam shaft gets worn. And won't let the valve move enough to release the pressure.


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## Tylerz71

I considered that as a possibility but when it ran last week it ran so good. With the plug out it doesn't spin over super fast, just enough because there isn't compression


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## film495

electrical. 12.3V seems a little low actually for a battery. Maybe just charge it up over night and see what happens or try jumping the starter directly from a car or truck.


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## Tylerz71

I checked again today, 12.58v at the battery. Drops to 9 and 8v at the battery when trying to crank. Has just under 6v at the starter while trying to crank. I'm still confused but thinking about ordering a cheap starter off eBay now.


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## film495

clean the ground connection for the starter, or add a jumper wire to the frame. if it grounds at the mounts, just loosed it and clean the connections and tighten up again. start tractor. 

I'm guessing, but I think it is more likely you have a bad electrical connection, than the starter is actually failed. It is the cheaper option as well, so I'd go there first.


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## jhngardner367

Do an amperage check on the battery. I think you'll find it is bad. 
Batteries can show good voltage,but not have enough amperage to function properly.


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## Tylerz71

It's the second new battery I've tried so mainly ruled that out. 
Whoever said the valves was onto something. I replaced the starter, no help. Adjusted the valves and still won't turn over enough. It seems both valves are closed on compression stroke and the starter can't overcome that? Before I scrap this engine does anyone know what I can do?


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## okenadie

I think I was the one that told you to take the exhaust valve down to 0.03. I have had several engines do this. Mostly B&S. the lobe on the crank seems to get worn down. And this will not let the valve open to release the compression. This causes the engine to seem to lock up after about a 1/4 turn. I have done this to my own lawn tractor. It has been running fine now for two or three years. It's a lot easier than changing out the cam. FYI, The lobe on the cam is made of some kind of soft metal. And I think it is a separate part. I guess they thought they could build them cheaper if they did this.


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## Tylerz71

Thanks for that info. We tried several adjustments and I think one was the exhaust valve set at 0.03 or even 0.02 and the intake at 0.04 or around there and no luck. It does seem like the engine needs a sort of compression release but I will try to play with it more


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## okenadie

I didn't ask before. But have you tired to turn it over with out the plug in it. If it turns over freely with out it. Then I would say the cam lobe is your problem. I have had one where I snugged the clearance down to next to nothing. The thing is. When the cam turns and releases the compression. It only opens a hair. So in some cases. You have to take it down to pretty much no clearance at all. It can cause you to burn the valve I've been told. But then I have one that's been that way for over two years.


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## Tylerz71

I think you are right on with that diagnosis because that's what a small engine mechanic has told me too. I was told the compression realese device was not part of the cam though so can that part be replaced by taking the head off? It does turn over ok with the plug out, it's compression locking


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## okenadie

No you can't replace it by just taking the head off. You would have to tear the engine down and replace the cam. Or at least the part that is the release. I think that it is a separate part. You can pull up a diagram of the engine on most parts sites. You will see on the cam where the lobe is. Some are part of the cam. But I am pretty sure that B&S has put a soft metal release lobe on it.


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## Tylerz71

That's bad news I'm definitely not into tearing the whole engine down. I guess if taking the valve clearance down to near nothing doesn't get it running I will sell it for parts or park it in the yard and go buy a new or used mower with a kohler. Assuming a mechanic would charge over $200 or so to fix it.


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## okenadie

Well the only other thing I can tell you. Is to take the starter off. Then turn the key. If the starter turns with out any problem then. Then I would say it''s not the problem.


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## Thor

I have the same problem. Never buy this thing again.
Have adjusted valves 3 times. Tried all the above except the setting you mention. Same deal it has too much compression to start. If I have had the spark plug out, it will turn over.

If I set the exhaust valve at 0.03. What about the intake? Thnx.


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## jhngardner367

One question I haven't seen asked:
Did you try it with the belt off the engine pulley? 
if it rolls good with it off,it could have a bind on the belt.


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## Thor

jhngardner367 said:


> One question I haven't seen asked:
> Did you try it with the belt off the engine pulley?
> if it rolls good with it off,it could have a bind on the belt.


It will roll, but not start. Same as described in the other post. When I had the spark plug out, then replaced, it would start once. Then back to same problem. Had starter checked at a starter rebuild place, new battery and solenoid.


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## okenadie

I've had the same kind of problem with several mowers. Since you have tried about everything else. I would ask if you did or did not replace the solenoid. If someone has jumped started it with an auto. Sometimes they will do just what you have described. So you could just try that.


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## Thor

Where could it be getting bound? Do u mean the transmission belt? The one you have to tear down the body floor to get to? there were a couple times it acted like the clutch wouldn't engage, and I would have to roll it back and forth to finally get it to start. However at that time it wouldn't even turn over once.


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