# Start up problems!



## Justin M (Jan 1, 2010)

I just rebuilt the motor on my 1948 Farmall H. Today I finally got to hit the starter button, but no luck. 

It will turn over, but very slowly. Its a brand new battery (still 6 volt). It will turn over a couple times, stop, then turn over once, quit and then turn twice. I am not sure if this is normal or not. Im thinkin either low charge on battery or weak starter. 

2nd problem is, when I turn on the fuel, it will enter the carb, then start pouring out of the intake of the carb. Im thinking the float is bad and not closing off the fuel when it is full. 

Let me know yalls opionion!

Thank You!


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Welcome to the forum. I am not sure about the starting problem but you are right about the float its sinking or out of adjustment causing the overload of fuel. Is the sarter oe or new?


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## Justin M (Jan 1, 2010)

The starter looks to be OE, and I just bought a carb repair kit. So im about to rebuild it and see what happens.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

10-4 let us know how it turns out.


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## Justin M (Jan 1, 2010)

Ok, the starter is very weak, so im going to pull it off and send it off to be rebuilt. Gotta guy locally that can do it. 

The carb is not leaking anymore from the intake, fixed that with the rebuild kit. 

But we tried to pull start it and gas vapors are coming out of the exhaust, so I am not getting fire I suspect. I have the magneto, so I guess its not working. I am getting fire out of the coil, because it shocked my finger, but not sure if its powerful enough. 

I dont know where to go from here.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

How do the wires look? Are you getting fire to the cylinders?


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## Justin M (Jan 1, 2010)

wjjones said:


> How do the wires look? Are you getting fire to the cylinders?


They are brand new, I built them. I need to do a continuity check on them to make sure they are built good.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Do you have the correct wires to the correct cylinders? Firing order is 1-3-4-2. The #1 cylinder should be marked on the distributor cap, and you can take the cap off and see which direction the rotor spins when you crank it. That way you know which terminal would be the next one in line.

As for the magneto, you can be getting a shock off of it, but it may not be enough to fire the plugs under compression. You need more voltage to fire a plug when its in the cylinder under compression than you do when its sitting out in the free air. You can get a spark tester that has a large gap for the current to jump. If it doesn't jump that, you don't have enough juice. Alternatively, you could just pull the ignition lead from the coil off the distributor cap and hold it about 1/2-3/4" away from the block and have someone crank it over. Does the same basic thing.

I had a similar issue with my '46 H when I rebuilt it in college. It wouldn't fire when we got it all back together. I took the cover off the magneto, and found that there was oil on the contacts in there. Cleaned it up and she fired right up.


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## Justin M (Jan 1, 2010)

Well I took my magneto apart, and cleaned it also, and it started getting fire. It would pop and sputter, but wouldnt stay running. I adjusted the carb to what the rebuild kit specified, but not sure of thats the issue or not. I am lost right now.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

I'd go back to that Magneto. Sounds like you partially hit upon it.


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## Justin M (Jan 1, 2010)

tractor beam said:


> I'd go back to that Magneto. Sounds like you partially hit upon it.


Ok, would you think the rebuild kit they have, would take care if the partial miss?


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## Paul5388 (Oct 9, 2007)

Pop and sputter is usually a sign of timing problems. Make sure you set the timing right when you did the rebuild. 

Set it on TDC and it should spark when you move the distributor to #1 with the cap off (I'm assuming a magneto works the same in principle). That gets the ignition timing synced to the engine timing. You can also take the valve cover off and see if the valves on #4 are opening and closing between the intake and exhaust valves. That ensures #1 is on the firing stroke at TDC.

Sometimes bad fuel can do something similar, i.e. water in the fuel.

I should have added the common practice of using a 9 volt battery on the older systems. It's especially handy in colder weather when they have a harder time cranking.


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## BERMUDA KEN (Jul 23, 2010)

Check your battery cables. They may look good, but can be corroded internally. We find them to be a common part that is often overlooked.


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