# Ford NAA Alternator Mounting



## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I have a NAA that has been nothing but trouble since I got it 10 yr. ago.
Big aggravation was it had a Bucket Loader that was too big for a NAA and always in the way. I had finally given-up on it and gave it away.
The man I gave it to removed the bucket and returned it to me, saying, "I think you will like the NAA now".
He was partially right. It did look better and steering was easier.
I couldn't get it to Charge. Once I Flashed it and it went to the peg (30 amps), sat there about 30 sec, then dropped to about 8 amps.
Tried again, it went to the peg and then dropped to the opposite peg.
Generator Shop said the Field windings were burnt.

While they have had it, I got antsy.
I ordered a 6v to 12v alternator kit.

Once I finally got the thing on the engine, I couldn't get the adjustment on the top brace to give full travel in it's slot. Belt is old but the adjustment should move full-slot.
I rigged up a mess that got full movement, but it was just to see if it would. 


Biggest problem id with the alternator mounted as per pars supplied, the alternator pulley is only about 1/2" to the rear of the exhaust pipe and the fan belt is only about 1/4" to the rear of the exhaust pipe a fraction of and inch below the alternator pulley.
I don't believe that is enough room for cooling the alternator or the belt.

Thus-far, the only alternative I have thought of is to re-route the exhaust.

I would love to hear a better solution.

Thanks for any help available.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello John, 

Would a longer or shorter belt help your situation? Post some pictures illustrating your problem.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Hi BigT;

A shorter belt would help with the ability to adjust the tension as the belt stretched . I don't believe it would do much for the exhaust pipe heat.
I am still thinking of re-routing the exhaust.

Thanks for your reply and I'll get a few pictures.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Hello John,

There are many vertical exhaust kits available on the internet to fit an NAA. If you simply want to re-route your exhaust pipes, use a muffler shop. They can bend exhaust pipe to suit your needs.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Hi sixbales:

Thank You for the reply and information.
As far as I know, at the moment, there is only one shop that will do pipe bends. They are 50 miles away.
I have considered several ways to change the exhaust , but haven't decided on any, yet.

I stopped at 2 Auto Parts stores today, for a couple belts, a 12 volt Amp meter, a 12 volt Battery and a couple new Battery Cables, that was one stop. The other I got a Off-On-Start Switch (do away with the Starter Button) and they found a curved Upper Mount for the top mount. I don't expect it to bolt directly in place, without a little tinkering. Looked like I may need to shorten the Overall Length and increase the length of the adjustment slot. Actually made to fit a small block chevy.

I won't get back up there until Wed., so we'll see if I can make it work, after that.

Apparently that Auto Parts Store has had a good amount of feed-back from people who have already made the Gen. to Alt. switch. His advise was , Don't be too concerned about the heat from the exhaust pipe due to the amount of air that blows through there. He did say the belt may need replacing more often than usual.

I was going to take a few pictures of the alt./exh. area. They were very close, as I had it configured, at one point.

I'll be busy, the next few days tinkering with the NAA, between the heat and my COPD. The two don't work well together.

Thanks sixbales !


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I am going to stick my neck out and ask if your exhaust runs towards the front of the tractor and not in the middle, either facing up or down and to the rear??.

Can you not fit the alternator on the opposite side of the engine?, I see many photos of the charging system on either side.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Hi FredM;

Thanks for the reply.

The exhaust comes from the engine from rear of the cylinder head and goes towards the front of the tractor through the muffler and out of the muffler to a 90 degree bend straight towards the ground, then another 90 degree bend and straight back towards the rear of the tractor. I could cut a hole in the hood, change the manifold adapter flange and go straight up. Placement might look funny, but I'm concerned it may be too close to me in the operators seat (exhaust fumes).
Thought of mounting the alternator on the Right Side, but as of yet haven't found any place to install mounts. I believe I have seen pictures of alternators mounted on the Right Side, but don't remember if they were Ford NAA's or how they mounted.

Thank You for the suggestion. I'll look more and see if there is a place for mounting. I looked in the area, right side, where the lower mount would fit, but not holes in that area.
I'll keep trying.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

John, your exhaust is like this one??.









Could you not cut the exhaust pipe just after the first bend where I have dotted it and then have that lay horizontal out from the muffler, this would have to be long enough to clear the bonnet, and at the second dotted line have this piece vertical and reweld to the first cut, you wouldn't have to brace this as there is a support at the pipe end of the muffler, that is if your system is like this and it would save you having to hack your bonnet.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

John C. Posey said:


> Hi FredM;
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> ...










This is how my exhaust runs.


FredM said:


> John, your exhaust is like this one??.
> View attachment 73813
> 
> 
> Could you not cut the exhaust pipe just after the first bend where I have dotted it and then have that lay horizontal out from the muffler, this would have to be long enough to clear the bonnet, and at the second dotted line have this piece vertical and reweld to the first cut, you wouldn't have to brace this as there is a support at the pipe end of the muffler, that is if your system is like this and it would save you having to hack your bonnet.


Thanks , great idea


FredM said:


> John, your exhaust is like this one??.
> View attachment 73813
> 
> 
> Could you not cut the exhaust pipe just after the first bend where I have dotted it and then have that lay horizontal out from the muffler, this would have to be long enough to clear the bonnet, and at the second dotted line have this piece vertical and reweld to the first cut, you wouldn't have to brace this as there is a support at the pipe end of the muffler, that is if your system is like this and it would save you having to hack your bonnet.



Thanks. Great idea. If the picture and parts are to scale, it would work well. 








This is another picture I found:
So far, I am liking this configuration. I think the pipe could be a bit more vertical and will probably need bracing.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Another suggestion for you, how about a heat deflector clamped to the exhaust pipe long enough to cover the pulley and the lower part of the V belt and use hose clamps to hold to the pipe.

you mentioned you had 1/2" of clearance, if you bend the legs a 1/4" that will give pulley and belt clearance and allow air flow between the deflector and the exhaust pipe.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

FredM said:


> Another suggestion for you, how about a heat deflector clamped to the exhaust pipe long enough to cover the pulley and the lower part of the V belt and use hose clamps to hold to the pipe.
> 
> you mentioned you had 1/2" of clearance, if you bend the legs a 1/4" that will give pulley and belt clearance and allow air flow between the deflector and the exhaust pipe.
> 
> View attachment 73844


You have some great ideas ! Yes I think that would work.

I found this on one of the Parts Sites:









It should fit over the front end of the muffler and come out the side and up. May need a couple braces, but I can make those.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Home and hosed mate!!, good one and saves destroying your bonnet, which is even better.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

What would be wrong with the original set up?


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

pogobill said:


> What would be wrong with the original set up?
> View attachment 73849


It appears to have the same problem I am trying to avoid. Looks nice. Hope the owner has good service from it. This tractor appears to be a Show Piece, mind will get dirty and maybe muddy and will heat-up to near boiling. Difference between Show and Go. It's Pretty though.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

I solved the alternator mounting problem. 
Now I have a bigger problem. I have been over and over the connection drawing by the seller and have had a Total of no response from the alternator or any electrical part, save the battery. 
I have down loaded 5 or 6 different Hook-Up Drawings. None have worked.
Talked with a local farmer. He helped the most. With his advice I was able to get the engine to turn-over, but no fire. Plug caps and Spark plug wires have a fine white powder on them. Plugs were dry.

What I would like to ask is, Does anyone have a Workable drawing of how to connect an alternator on a Ford NAA Tractor.
Yesterday, once it would turn-over, I thought it might work. Then the wire from the solenoid to Key switch smoked and burst into a nice fire. Nothing else was viably damaged, well one other wire has a melted spot where it touched the burning wire.

If anyone can help, I would appreciate it.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Hi John,
Just wondering if you have changed the polarity of the battery leads from positive earth to negative earth?, and run the positive battery lead to the positive pole on the solenoid, also swap the coil leads, what you describe with the wire burning sure sounds like a dead short when the ignition key was switched to start.

Do you have a one wire alternator fitted?.

Have you disconnected the voltage regulator?.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Ford Tractor 12 Volt Conversion Wiring Diagrams







www.myfordtractors.com





Here you are, this should help you, choose the wiring diagram that suits your type of Alternator and tractor model.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

Thank You, I'll check them out.


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## John C. Posey (Jul 5, 2019)

FredM said:


> Hi John,
> Just wondering if you have changed the polarity of the battery leads from positive earth to negative earth?, and run the positive battery lead to the positive pole on the solenoid, also swap the coil leads, what you describe with the wire burning sure sounds like a dead short when the ignition key was switched to start.
> 
> Do you have a one wire alternator fitted?.
> ...


I had made a stupid mistake and accomplished only in relocating the the Pod. and Neg. to opposite sides of the tractor . Which I finally realized was still a Neg. Ground., just from different spots.
Yes it is a one wire .
Voltage regulator is removed.

I agree the burnt wire indicates a Direct Ground or an Overload. I had gotten the engine to crank, several times, as wired, then I cranked once more and immediate smoke and fire of one wire. Two wire are mounted on the same post, only one burnt.


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