# Ford 4100 with water damage



## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hello, 

My name is Matthieu, I am 29 y/o, this is my first forum post as i just got my first tractor which is not running.

Long story short:

My neighboor drove his old Ford 4100 (post 1975 production) into a puddle of water. It lay there for about 12 hours. This happened like a couple of days ago. He didnt want it anymore, and i always liked the machine even tho it lost much of his glory.









































in the end the tractor had basically no new damage except for the fact it was submerged for half a day.

my questions:

do you think there is a chance this tractor survived his scuba adventure?
which are the steps i have to undertake as soon as possible?
how long would it take to dry out completely?
would you dare to run the engine after 2 weeks of drying with new fluids and new battery?
where would i find a trustable manual that would teach me about how the engine works? (i am no mechanic at all)
how do you remove all the grease and mud near the engine ? High pressure water?


thanks for your time in advance

Kind regards
Matt


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Hello Matt, welcome to the forum.

That's a very nice gift. How far was the engine submerged? First thing I would do is pressure wash the mud and dirt off of it, then change engine oil (15W-40 oil) and filter. Drain fuel tank and and fuel system, replace fuel filter. Change transmission and rear end fluids (separate reservoirs). If it has an oil bath air cleaner, clean it. If a cartridge air filter, replace it. If the coolant looks to be affected, drain the cooling system and replace with coolant with cavitation corrosion protection. 

You may have water in the engine cylinders. See if you can turn the engine by hand. If not, you will have to pull the injectors to vent water. Post back with any questions.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

sixbales said:


> Hello Matt, welcome to the forum.
> 
> That's a very nice gift. How far was the engine submerged? First thing I would do is pressure wash the mud and dirt off of it, then change engine oil (15W-40 oil) and filter. Drain fuel tank and and fuel system, replace fuel filter. Change transmission and rear end fluids (separate reservoirs). If it has an oil bath air cleaner, clean it. If a cartridge air filter, replace it. If the coolant looks to be affected, drain the cooling system and replace with coolant with cavitation corrosion protection.
> 
> You may have water in the engine cylinders. See if you can turn the engine by hand. If not, you will have to pull the injectors to vent water. Post back with any questions.


Thank you for your fast reply, the engine was fully submerged, basically only 1 wheel was above the water, the rest of tractor was under water.

I will be updating my progress, i think this will be a long project 

kind regards


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Do not try to crank the engine till you know there is no water in the cylinders. Water is incompressible and cranking against hydro-locked cylinders cause damage internally.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Don't make it too long a project or you will have a bucket of rust to deal with. I just went through this very thing with a 4610 that underwent flood damage recently. The water level was halfway up the muffler for a couple days. 

Start with the engine since it's most critical. Drain the oil, and let it drip while you remove all the injectors. Hopefully they will come out with too much fight. Remove and drain the filter, then put it back on. Also drain the transmission and rear end, let them drip while you work on the engine. Pick up a couple gallons of the cheapest motor oil you can find, same with hydraulic oil. Cheapest you can find. You will need twenty or thirty gallons of that too. You might want to block the clutch pedal down while all this is going on as all that is soaking wet as well and the disc will probably stick on one side or the other. 

Once the engine is drained and injectors are out, dump five or six quarts of oil in it, and crank it over gently for a bit so the slop can blow out of the injector holes. Make sure the injection pump fuel shut off is in the stop position. It WILL make a mess so don't stand on that side. You may need to charge/jump/ maybe even replace the battery as you will be doing some serious cranking for a while. Once that's all cleared out, the injectors are back in, the motor cranks over as it should with no more hard spots, you can start on the fuel tank/system. I had to pull the injector back out a second time because I was in too big a hurry and didn't get all the slop out. 

Once your convinced you have clean fuel all the way to pump you can begin the process of getting it running again. If you're lucky the battery and starter will hold out long enough. If not you might want to pull it. At this point you can put the fluids in the rest of the tractor for the first go around. I only put five gallons in the rear end and dumped it after driving around for a few minutes. You need to get it going as soon as possible, run it for a while then change the oil and filter. The oil will look like a watery mess in just minutes so don't run it too long with that in it. Might want to do that twice as it takes a while for the water trapped on top of the head, in passage ways, and other corners to get mixed in. After that you deal with problems as you find them. Leave the battery disconnected for a few days at least while things dry out.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

3 days later, grease diesel and mud, we pulled out injectors, used a compressor to blow out water from the engine after we drained oil, manually cranked it, then let battery starter push out final water. Then screwed everything back into place, this beast is running. The sound of this 3 cylinders made me grin like never before, I wish I could let you hear the rebirth of this 4100. Was like a cold start but with water bubbles


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Glad to hear about the progress. The driver must have had the presence of mind to shut off the engine before it started sucking water, otherwise you would have a connecting rod poking out through the engine block.

Do not forget to drain the power steering system as well. Put the front on jack stands, so the front tyres are off the ground. Work the steering wheel (engine off) from end to end to get as much liquid as possible out. Reassemble with a new filter and fill with the cheap oil. Start engine and work the steering wheel until you get bored of it. Stop engine and empty the system as before. Redo the "flushing" a couple of times. Fill with proper oil, mineral ATF or better LHM (the green blood of Citroën). Renew liquid and filter after a week of use.

Check that the small hole at the bottom of the bell housing (there is probably a cotter/split pin in there) is open, so you do not have water standing inside.

The starter motor and solenoid has to come off and get disassembled and cleaned/dried.

Get a can, with straw, of some kind of water dispersing product (5-56, WD-40 or "Electronics/Contacts cleaner") and spray liberally inside the alternator and all boxes and connectors. If you have pure (99.9 %) isopropyl alcohol at hand, finish with spraying that inside the alternator.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Goodday.

It has been a while, i learned a lot from all the comments. the tractor is still running fine. I m learning a lot about of basic stuff about old tractors. 

After i replaced the ATF for the power steering, it started leaking from the steering wheel. the reddish oil however was more likely grey. I remember the old owner never took care of the tractor so i would not be surprised he never cared about the power steering oil..

After some hours i got the steering wheel removed and the result is seen in the photo:










3-4 inches down there is greyish brown atf oil. is this normal? what do i do to repair this leak?

thanks in advance
have a nice day
Matt


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

First, it is really satisfying that the tractor made it through this ordeal.

I can not help with details, but I think the leak is from the seal above the control valve under the column. There is a lot of posts on the forum regarding this. I searched and found, but will not link to them since I am not sure if you have the same configuration. I am sure someone will chime in and help.

Is the liquid in the reservoir also greyish? If so, you need to flush the system again. If not, probably water that got into the column during the aquatic adventures is being mixed with leaking ATF, and this is outside the system.

One reflection:
The seal can have turned bad just because of old age, then a new seal will fix the problem. In worst case, something could have been bent or cracked in the accident and a new seal will not fix this. Apart from that the surface which the seal acts upon can be rusted/pitted, and a new seal will go bad in short time. Better examine the parts thoroughly.

But wait until someone who knows more will contribute.

Before digging in, it is good to get familiar with the parts and locations. Here are links to parts lists:





(4100) - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975 (1/75-12/81) (03A02) - FRONT AXLE, STEERING & RELATED PARTS, POWER STEERING, 75/ L/CAB 4-76/ - 2600, 3600, 4600SU, 4100, 3900, 231, 531 New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com









(4100) - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975 (1/75-12/81) (03B02) - POWER STEERING GEAR L/CAB (4-76/ ) W/ OR L/CAB (75/3-76), 2600,3600,231,531,3900,4100,4600SU,335,532 New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com




The upper seal is #28 in 03B02

Attaching a part of a shop manual, the upper seal is #40 in Figure 6.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Hello Matt, congratulations. You've learned a great deal in a very short time. The leak you are seeing from the steering column is due to a leaking seal at the base of the steering column. Do not go any deeper than that. 

We need to learn the production date of your tractor, as there are variations in power steering systems.

There is a flat spot on the clutch housing just above and behind the starter. There are 3 sets of numbers stamped into the metal on this flat spot. They may be obscured by paint, dirt, corrosion, rust. Clean them till you can clearly read these numbers. Find those numbers and post back.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Thank you for these fast responses, the tractor production date is 10th of August 1978 in the afternoon I think:









I think I have found a replacement seal, I think the entire top part has to come of for this fix?

Also I have found a replacement for this part









You see where the metal chipped off? The problem is those connections are so rusty they are basically glued together. I'm afraid only time + wd-40 + heat + the occasional smackeroni with the hammer is the solution for this problem? Upper one gave in pretty fast, but down below is already a 2 day curse, it just does not let go!

Btw first photo is before I pressure washed most of the dirt away, the tractor now actually looks 10 years younger 

The steering wheel leak and this rear are the final problems that affect it's functionality. Afterwards there are only aesthetic upgrades and routine oil/filter changes.

Thanks for all the help, would not have worked without all of your help.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

I can see the production date code 8H10C. But, there are two 4100 models: 
4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1965(01/65 - 12/74)
4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975(01/75 - 12/81)
So, it might be 1978, or it might be a 1968 model?? I don't know. 

I cannot read the other number below the date code. Can you see it clearly? Is there a third number stamped there?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Front axle/steering, dry air filter, no oil filler plug on valve cover, manifolds and more, shows that it is not a 1000-series 4100 (4000 model, Agricultural All Purpose chassies). It is a 4100 model from the 600-series (a.k.a. the 100-series), basically a 1000-series 3055 with some changes done to it.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Hacke, do you ever sleep??? 

So, it is the older model 4100?? 
4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1965(01/65 - 12/74)


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

sixbales said:


> Hacke, do you ever sleep???
> 
> So, it is the older model 4100??
> 4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1965(01/65 - 12/74)



No and No.

It is a 4100 model from the 600-series (a.k.a. the 100-series), basically a 1000-series 3055 with some changes done to it. 4.2" x 4.4" engine in both. If they had named it more correctly to 3655, there would not be any confusion.









New Holland 4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975(01/75 - 12/81) Parts


New Holland 4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975(01/75 - 12/81) Parts



www.messicks.com










TractorData.com Ford 4100 tractor information







www.tractordata.com









TractorData.com Ford 3055 tractor information







www.tractordata.com


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hacke said:


> No and No.
> 
> It is a 4100 model from the 600-series (a.k.a. the 100-series), basically a 1000-series 3055 with some changes done to it. 4.2" x 4.4" engine in both. If they had named it more correctly to 3655, there would not be any confusion.
> 
> ...


When I look for parts, i search for 4100? Or 3055? Or are both compatible for most parts?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

mattr said:


> When I look for parts, i search for 4100? Or 3055? Or are both compatible for most parts?


Search for parts for 4100 and make sure the dates (75-81) are right. If you search on a CNH-site you will get something like this:








New Holland Model Search






www.messicks.com





I find this catalog handy, since it has the original lists. CNH lists does not always have information about the parts that no longer is available, but this one has:





(4100) - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975 (1/75-12/81) (10B01) - HYDRAULIC PUMPS, MOUNTED IN CENTER HOUSING, GEAR TYPE New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com





3055 had transmission, hydraulics and rear axle from 4000, and a front part from 3000, except the engine. I do not know if the hydraulic pump was on the engine. If so, that is a difference from a 4000.
The engine is a bit odd since it has 4,2" bore and 4.4" stroke (183 cubic inch). A 3000 diesel engine was 4.2"x4.2" (175 cubic inch), and a 4000 diesel engine was 4.4"x4.4" (201 cubic inch). The engines are interchangable, same bolt pattern.

From 1975, 4000 became 4600, 3000 became 3600 and 3055 became 4100. I do not know what changed from 3055 to 4100, apart from alternator/generator, instruments and air filter. A transition all models made.

If you need a part from a breaker, chanses are they do not have very much from a 4100 (75-81). They will probably have more from 3000/3600 and 4000/4600 tractors. Look in the parts list for the tractor they have dismantled, and compare the part number to the corresponding 4100 (75-81) part's number. If they match, the part fits. Same goes for aftermarket parts. Also 2000/2600 parts for the front/steering can be of interest. There are also parts on tractors from the 10-series and 30-series that will fit, maybe from later models as well.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Thanks for information.

I opened the power steering pump, the filter looked like this:










I removed all the oil and removed as much rust as possible before inserting a new filter. I also removed the steering wheel housing. When I removed the housing, this fell out:










I have no idea where this part comes from..

Then I cranked the engine so I could see where the leak was coming from and the verdict was this:










If sit on the tractor seat and watch the steering wheel, the oil sprouted out at 12 'o clock. Does this still makes the broken seal underneath this a viable theory? Because every screw/bolt i remove makes it harder for me to put it back together 😁

Kind regards
Matt


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

mattr said:


> Thanks for information.
> 
> I opened the power steering pump, the filter looked like this:
> 
> ...


It is time to renew that filter, bath or no bath. Flush the system thoroughly. The filter on my 4000 looked a bit worse than that. Someone had got the bright idea to enhance the performance by poking the filter with a screwdriver. Apart from having no filtering, the operation resulted in hundreds of small paper pieces in the pump.

I do not know about the steering valve.

The part you found made me think of the underside of the steering wheel. Is it something missing there?


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

So I found quite a few problems with the steering wheel colum that could be the cause of the leak. There are broken bolts and both the valves that should prevent oil from pumping up are destroyed. the upper and lower seals are not the same: the lower one is a bit bigger than the upper one:









(4100) - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975 (1/75-12/81) (03B02) - POWER STEERING GEAR L/CAB (4-76/ ) W/ OR L/CAB (75/3-76), 2600,3600,231,531,3900,4100,4600SU,335,532 New Holland Agriculture

The seals are number 28 and 7. I found a new 28 very quickly but i cannot find the bigger number 7 any where. I live in Belgium, and I am no professional. Where could I find this part?

And if i were not to find a replacement. with just an upper seal, do you think the leaking would stop? Because I am considering to put everything back together without a lower seal.

kind regards
Matt


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

*** Edit
The CNH site needs some direction information in order to make the local links work. Click this link first:





MyCNHi EU Store







www.mycnhistore.com




Then you can continue with the links below.
***
CNH seems to have:





NEW HOLLAND AG | AFDICHTING | C5NN3N739A | MyCNHi EU Store


AFDICHTING #C5NN3N739A




www.mycnhistore.com









NEW HOLLAND AG | Seal Kit | 86531349 | MyCNHi EU Store


Seal Kit #86531349




www.mycnhistore.com









NEW HOLLAND AG | AFDICHTING | 81803245 | MyCNHi EU Store


AFDICHTING #81803245




www.mycnhistore.com





The dimensions for the seal are a bit weird:
31.62 mm ID
44.68 mm OD
7.92 mm width

I think that is the seal's dimensions. Normally you give the shaft/hole dimensions that the seal fits. Let us say that the shaft and hole are machined to more usable dimensions, in pre-metric units:
1 1/4" (31.7500 mm) ID
1 3/4" (44.4500) OD
5/16" (7.9375 mm) width
You could use a standard seal, here are some examples:





Oliekeerringen leverancier. Seal Supply Oliekeerringen Zoeken op afmeting


Seal Supply is leverancier van Oliekeerringen ✓ Ruim Assortiment Oliekeerringen en Zoeken op afmeting ✓ Dé online groothandel voor al uw afdichtingen ✓ Maatwerk mogelijk




www.sealsupply.nl





*** Edit
You could try with Histoparts as well:





Wij zijn Histoparts - Histoparts


Wij zijn als bedrijf sinds 1991 actief in de oldtimerwereld. In deze jaren hebben we een groot bestand weten op te bouwen van onderdelen welke soms niet of moeilijk te verkrijgen zijn. Op dit moment hebben wij meer dan 15000 verschillende producten in onze voorraad. Hierdoor kunnen we veelal...




histoparts.com




***


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## Davepayne (May 11, 2021)

Hi
Does anyone know were the vin number is on a 1977 Ford 4100 with a cab

I t is not the number on the transmission casing 
Thanks


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

FORD CODES and SERIAL NUMBERS











Ford 2000, 3000, 4000, 5000 Serial Numbers | Vintage Tractor Engineer


The numbers are relevant to Ford tractors manufactured between 1965 and 1975, located on the right hand side of the tractor on the flywheel housing, just rearwards of the starter motor. They are given in 3 parts an example of which is given below… D1013C 9G12C B123456 This example above would...



vintagetractorengineer.com


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hacke said:


> *** Edit
> The CNH site needs some direction information in order to make the local links work. Click this link first:
> 
> 
> ...


I found a good replacement for this 4100 powersteering seal, it took me a while to figure this out. Powersteering is fixed, although i must say it is kind of sluggish (it helps steering but not a lot and pretty slow). I used red atx (i think that s the same as atf). Maybe the system needs some time to get rid of the air inside it.

Next problem I'm tackling is the alternator. The old one was completely orange and bluegreen from corrosion and rust. So i got a replacement.
If i m correct, there should be a battery light on when you click the key 1 step. And that light should dissappear the moment the motor (and alternator is running). I never had a light on my dashboard, now my oil pressure light is working correctly again and my battery light pops-up as I turn the key 1 step. The problem is that the battery light does not turn of as the engine starts. I replaced all cables without any result. Am i missing something? A secret switch or sensor?

This alternator is the last difficult part for me. Then the tractor should be fully operational and then I can start fixing the aestethics 

kind regards and thanks for all the help already
Matt


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

mattr said:


> I found a good replacement for this 4100 powersteering seal, it took me a while to figure this out. Powersteering is fixed, although i must say it is kind of sluggish (it helps steering but not a lot and pretty slow). I used red atx (i think that s the same as atf). Maybe the system needs some time to get rid of the air inside it.
> 
> Next problem I'm tackling is the alternator. The old one was completely orange and bluegreen from corrosion and rust. So i got a replacement.
> If i m correct, there should be a battery light on when you click the key 1 step. And that light should dissappear the moment the motor (and alternator is running). I never had a light on my dashboard, now my oil pressure light is working correctly again and my battery light pops-up as I turn the key 1 step. The problem is that the battery light does not turn of as the engine starts. I replaced all cables without any result. Am i missing something? A secret switch or sensor?
> ...


Glad to hear from you, great progress!

I can not help you with that type of power steering, but maybe I can do a little bit regarding the alternator.

If your new alternator is like the old one, it needs a functioning battery temperature sensor. The sensor sits in the bottom of the battery tray and can be tested according to the attached pdf.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hacke said:


> Glad to hear from you, great progress!
> 
> I can not help you with that type of power steering, but maybe I can do a little bit regarding the alternator.
> 
> ...


Brilliant, talk about a hidden switch! I'm going to look right into that after work, thank you  
If we keep the pace up by the end of the month i'll be fixing the FEL bucket


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Matt, If the lower seal was leaking, you would see fluid leakage from the steering gearbox vent. The upper seal prevents fluid from coming up the steering column.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

sixbales said:


> Matt, If the lower seal was leaking, you would see fluid leakage from the steering gearbox vent. The upper seal prevents fluid from coming up the steering column.


Well yes indeed. The real problem was my limited knowlegde 

There is an upper seal that directs to the steering colum and a lower one that sits between the powersteering fluid and the steering worm. I succesfully ruined the lower seal (which was working fine) to then realise i had to replace the top one. So basically i had to replace them both and the bottom one was a pain to find. Now powersteering works, but i m affraid the PS pump has had it's best days. it does not help a lot steering, probably because it has been running dry/running with very little fluid and cant work the pressure.



Hacke said:


> Glad to hear from you, great progress!
> 
> I can not help you with that type of power steering, but maybe I can do a little bit regarding the alternator.
> 
> ...


Indeed, plugged this thing back in and got my 14V back on the battery! Basically everything works on the dashboard now, battery light, oil pressure, temperature, fuel gage and rpm.

So on my checklist so far i have checked:

Motor dry and running
oil draining + filter replacement + refill
Key ignition + redid safety wiring for starting
Powersteering fixed
Rear upper linkage replaced
Dashboard fully functional

Upcomming problems to tackle:

I need to fix the lights.
PTO is leaking very slowly (like a couple of drops per day but still)
Both lift rear lift arms need replacement (or the end needs to be rewelded, I found my grandfathers welding setup but I have never done any welding)
My ford 4100 is equipped with a FEL, however there is no bucket or anything at the top and it's a bit bend. But I dream of having a bucket on it and have it fully operational. There for i have 2 options: Or i go mechanical or i go hydraulic. My preference goes to the last one, the FEL has 2 attachment points for hydraulic cylinders on both arms. The problem is the end of the arms which are pretty brittle (and they have broken quite a fewtimes, and the old owner welded everything together).
Another issue is when i lift my front or rear, it goes down about 0.5m per hour. so my guess would be a leak? but aside from PTO shaft, there is no leaking at the tractor.
I need to redo the entire nose, it had it's best days, it can tell stories of many crashes (so it seems).
The handbrake is stuck. Impossible to pull or push anything. i m using my FEL right now as brakesystem..

I m going to try to add some photos of the upcomming problems as soon as I can.

Kind regards
Matt


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Matt, the steering gearbox is often overlooked. Since it has been submerged, there will be water in there as well. On the left hand side of the gearbox, there is a filler port with a plug in it. I guess I would use a wet-vac with a small hose taped on the end of the vacuum tube to suck the fluid out of the gearbox. Takes gear oil.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

sixbales said:


> Matt, the steering gearbox is often overlooked. Since it has been submerged, there will be water in there as well. On the left hand side of the gearbox, there is a filler port with a plug in it. I guess I would use a wet-vac with a small hose taped on the end of the vacuum tube to suck the fluid out of the gearbox. Takes gear oil.


There is a lot of ATF oil in the steering box, since the lower seal of the powersteering circuit leaked into the steering gearbox. Is it a tiny square screw?

Kind regards
Matt


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Another question, I need to weld new lower links. I have never welded anything in my life, I found my grandfathers welding device that goes up to 180A, I found his protective mask too. I bought myself some 3.2 rutile electrodes and I read quite a bit about it on the internet. From what i learnt: it s not mig, it's just a clamp where I put the electrode in. I read 180A is more than enough for 3.2mm electrodes?

How I would tacke this:

remove rust and get V shapes on every part that will be welded
weld 2 little plates on the arms and the new links, with 3mm between the parts, so they become fixed and I will not suffer from them bending (I think i need to weld a bit at a time?)
when the welds are finished, i grind the plates off
Tadaaa

Does this look allright? Am I forgetting something? how difficult would you say this is? I'm planning on trying out on old iron first. Any advice/tips are more than welcome.

Kind Regards
Matt


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

SMAW (stick metal arc welding) takes some practice so do that on junk material first. Not sure what they are called in your country but yon need low hydrogen electrodes like an AWS 6013.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hello,

Bad news, after replacing both seals on the powersteering, I took her for a mowing task, 2 hours of work and ATF started leaking again from the steering shaft.. Maybe I broke the seal, so I'm goin to replace it again I think since i don't see any other reason for this leak.



SidecarFlip said:


> SMAW (stick metal arc welding) takes some practice so do that on junk material first. Not sure what they are called in your country but yon need low hydrogen electrodes like an AWS 6013.


Yes, I'm trying every day, I didn't think it was this delicate.

EDIT:

can any1 confirm me if this is the correct nose cone, mine is completely destroyed and i want to replace it:

OEM: 4734, S.61627, S61627, 83900562, 83928182, D4NN8N202E, D5NN8B202B, 41002, D4NN8N22C









My tractor has the dry double airfilter with hole at the side, but the website says this cone is only for Ford 2600 3600. I think it should be the same one

(4100) - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975 (1/75-12/81) (08) - SHEET METAL New Holland Agriculture

Kind Regards
Matt


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Pictured below is a steering shaft sleeve kit to fit a 4100. You install the sleeve over the shaft where the steering column seal rides on the shaft. Creates a new sealing surface. These work very well. Your steering shaft probably has a groove worn in it from the original seals seated.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Parts diagrams for radiator shell. 









New Holland 4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1965(01/65 - 12/74) Parts


New Holland 4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1965(01/65 - 12/74) Parts



www.messicks.com


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

The speedy sleeve is a solid solution, I never thought about that..



sixbales said:


> Parts diagrams for radiator shell.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If I look on this catalog, I see OEM D4NN8N202C 2 times:










Does this mean this nose is compatible with my 1978 4100 with dry air filter? Because the site has a no return policy for undamaged goods..

Thank you in advance


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

mattr said:


> The speedy sleeve is a solid solution, I never thought about that..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is the Parts List for the 1000-series (65-74). You need the list for the 4100 model, 600-series (75-81). Always have this picture in your memory, when you search for parts:








That is from Messick's in USA:








New Holland 4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975(01/75 - 12/81) Parts


New Holland 4100 - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975(01/75 - 12/81) Parts



www.messicks.com




European CNH sites does not even give you the (75-81) option when you search for 4100.

New Holland sites are not clear about what parts fits a 4100 (75-81), this is better:





(4100) - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975 (1/75-12/81) New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com









(4100) - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975 (1/75-12/81) (08) - SHEET METAL New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com









(4100) - 3 CYL AG TRACTOR ALL PURPOSE - 1975 (1/75-12/81) (14B01) - ENGINE HOOD, GRILLE & RELATED PARTS - 2600,3600,3900,4600,4600SU,231,531,233,333,335,515,532 New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com





The listing 14B01 is originally from Ford (CNH), so it does not show 4100 clearly for all items. You need to do some detective work, and you end up with D5NN8N202B (L/Air is a bit of a mystery, though). See picture at the bottom of this post.

I found some good pictures on this site, and they have their numbers in order:








D5NN8N202B D4NN8N202E Radiator Shell Assembly Fits Ford Tractor 231 23


One New Aftermarket Replacement Radiator Shell Assembly that fits: Fits Ford/New Holland INDUSTRIAL/CONSTRUCTION: 340A (Diesel, W/ Dry Air Cleaner, <2 Fits Ford/New Holland INDUSTRIAL/CONSTRUCTION: 340B Fits Ford/New Holland INDUSTRIAL/CONSTRUCTION: 540 Fits Ford/New Holland...




www.reliableaftermarketparts.com





That is equivalent to the Sparex S.61627 (Malpas call 600-series "100-series"):





S.61627 Nose Cone for Ford New Holland 3600 (100 Series) | UK Supplier


Product Specification and Information for S.61627 Nose Cone for Ford New Holland 3600 (100 Series)




www.malpasonline.co.uk




That is the one you showed in an earlier post.

One note:
If you go to your CNH and look for what models D5NN8N202B fits, among all wrong models they show 3600 and 4600. These models have different front types and do not share the same nose cowl. Beware, you are on your own here.
Open this one first:





MyCNHi EU Store







www.mycnhistore.com




Then this:





NEW HOLLAND AG | HULS | D5NN8N202B | MyCNHi EU Store


HULS #D5NN8N202B




www.mycnhistore.com





Your front end is the same as on a 3600 (at least for this part). Search for that, and D5NN8N202B.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hacke said:


> That is the Parts List for the 1000-series (65-74). You need the list for the 4100 model, 600-series (75-81). Always have this picture in your memory, when you search for parts:
> View attachment 74260
> 
> That is from Messick's in USA:
> ...


So what do you think about this one:

Nose Cone Looking for tractor parts?

This should be a match with my tractor right? I m just a bit cautious 
Thanks for info


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

As far as I can tell, it is the correct one. Sparex and CNH numbers are correct.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The only thing I can think of is that there might be holes for side lights on the one you will receive. On the other hand I think you have the holes on the old one, and they are plugged.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hacke said:


> The only thing I can think of is that there might be holes for side lights on the one you will receive. On the other hand I think you have the holes on the old one, and they are plugged.
> 
> View attachment 74262


I do not mind the holes. I just want to have a undamaged cone with the grille, and the current sheet metal is in such bad shape that it pushes the hood and the tank over back. I'll update with some pictures later on tonight.

Thanks again!


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Here are some photo's of the current state of my 4100:

Nose:










As you see completely destroyed, FEL has 1 arm that is going away from tractor, I hope that won't be an issue. I cant wait till this nose cone is replaced 

New seat + oil dripping from steering wheel as extra:










I removed the fibre cup where the seat was sitting in, I have no cab and it's easier to work without it hiding screws..

new alternator which is working correctly:










final photo, not much to see, just new starter and some electrical wiring that still has to be done (lights and direction indicators)


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Google Photos

I'm not sure if you can open this link, this is a video of my ford 4100 starting, in my opinion it starts smooth and runs fine now. Just a problem with my RPM gauge since yesterday..

And in the case you can see this video, here is a short one of the oil comming out of the steering shaft:
Google Photos


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

I have a quest regarding handbrake.
It doesnt work. It seems stuck. I can push the button on the handle, but the handle doesnt move up nor down. (I trying hitting it with a hammer, without any luck). Would any1 know where I should look to release this? I use the tractor and when it needs to stand still, I'm currently digging my FEL arms in the ground to hold me, but that does not work that well on hard surfaces.

thanks in advance


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

mattr said:


> I have a quest regarding handbrake.
> It doesnt work. It seems stuck. I can push the button on the handle, but the handle doesnt move up nor down. (I trying hitting it with a hammer, without any luck). Would any1 know where I should look to release this? I use the tractor and when it needs to stand still, I'm currently digging my FEL arms in the ground to hold me, but that does not work that well on hard surfaces.
> 
> thanks in advance












There is a pawl (2A) that acts on a toothed sector (7) to lock the handbrake. The pawl is released when you push the button (6), which sits at the end of a rod (6B) that turns the pawl away from the sector. One common problem is that the rod is bent or got unhooked. I have also seen the handle moved out so the button can not be pushed in properly. In your case I think the pawl has got stuck at the end of the sector. Examine the parts and try to move the pawl with a screwdriver.

This type of handbrake was common on old cars, but today a lot of people have never used it. When you release the brake, it is important to first lift the handle (tighten it further) to release the tension on the pawl and then push the button. If not, the rod will bend.



Pawl and rod:










Sector:


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hacke said:


> View attachment 74341
> 
> 
> There is a pawl (2A) that acts on a toothed sector (7) to lock the handbrake. The pawl is released when you push the button (6), which sits at the end of a rod (6B) that turns the pawl away from the sector. One common problem is that the rod is bent or got unhooked. I have also seen the handle moved out so the button can not be pushed in properly. In your case I think the pawl has got stuck at the end of the sector. Examine the parts and try to move the pawl with a screwdriver.
> ...


The rod was completely bent, so I removed it with the pushing button. The handbrake still feels stuck, I can move it half an inch when I think it should be really loose sitting as it sits:










some extra photos:


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

mattr said:


> The rod was completely bent, so I removed it with the pushing button. The handbrake still feels stuck, I can move it half an inch when I think it should be really loose sitting as it sits:
> 
> View attachment 74471
> 
> ...


This type of handbrake is not a brake system in itself, it just locks the foot pedals.

When you engage the handbrake, you first depress the foot pedals as much as you can, then you pull the handbrake lever with button pressed, to save the teeth on pawl and sector. When the lever is at the top, you release the button and the foot pedals are locked.

When you release the handbrake, you put your foot on the depressed pedals and hold firmly. Pull the handbrake lever a bit, depress the button and lower the lever. Now you have control over the brakes with the pedals.

As far as I can tell, the only cause of frozen handbrake lever would be that the bushings for the handbrake shaft is rusted. Oil them and work the handbrake lever up and down (with foot pedals depressed).

When things are moving as they should, adjust the brakes. I have searched for instructions for your tractor, but I do not find anything useful. Since these parts seem to be the same as for a 4000, I think the settings are the same. I attach the instructions for 4000. First adjust the footbrakes.

The methods in the attached instruction for footbrake adjustment is a bit sloppy, in my opinion. But it will work, I guess. I find brake adjustments are easier to perform if you compare a slight drag in the brakes, instead of full breaking. So, I suggest this:

Make sure the differential lock is disengaged.
Jack up the rear so both rear wheels are off the ground.
Put a smaller block of wood , say 30 mm, under both pedals (make sure the foot pads are equal).
Turn the adjusters until both wheels are locked (you can not turn them by hand).
Rewind the adjusters until you can turn the wheels with a drag.
Standing behind the tractor you can now grab both wheels and compare the drag.
Adjust until the drag is equal.

If it is hard to determine the amount of drag, wrap a rope around one wheel, leave a loop behind the tractor and wrap the rope around the other wheel. If you pull the rope at the middle of the loop, both wheels should start turning at the same time.

Tighten the lock nuts, remove the blocks, depress the brakes one by one a few times. put back the blocks and redo the drag test. When everything is OK, check that the wheels are spinning freely when the brakes are disengaged.

Now for the handbrake, adjust per the instructions first. Put back the block under the pedals and engage the handbrake, just enough to move the pedals slightly from the block. Check the drag and adjust the handbrake accordingly.


A tractor can work perfectly in the fields and off-road with poor brakes, but in road traffic you need brakes that are reliable and do not spin you off the road or into the wrong lane. They need to have equal effect.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

As for the nose cowl, it had a pretty severe hit straight on to the front that moved the hood backwards. Could this accident have caused the steering column problems?

Anyhow, the brackets that hold the nose, hood and tank may all be bent. It is a tedious work to get things in order again. Start with aligning the nose at the bottom and attach the fasteners, loosely. Then check the "horns" that holds the nose at the top. When that is done, put on the left-hand hood and check the "horns" on the "firewall" bracket. If these are bent, you need a lot of force to get them right. Best way is to remove the bracket and straighten it in a press. Then continue with the tank, steering column and dash hood. Put all fasteners loosely in place. Everything should fit loosely. Now you can do fine adjustments with the right-hand hood and the locks and hinges.

I have been struggling with this, and I never got it perfect. The steering column could not be centered in the hole in the dash hood, but everything else lined up fine. Even the filler neck in the dash hood hole. Very frustrating.


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## mattr (Mar 22, 2021)

Hello,

I'm here again with a potential problem: I was working my 4100 with the usual normal mower behind it, when all of a sudden I start hearing some rattling noise comming from the hydraulic pump underneath the driver seat. It's not really loud but still enough to be annoyed and a bit concerned. I stopped and checked the hydraulic fluid level, there was still plenty left, but there were quite a few little bubbles of air on the control stick.

I noticed the pump now also needs more effort to lift anything up..

What could this be and how could i resolve this? How urgent is this fix? Hopefully I do not have to split the tractor up since i dont have the right tools to do so..

Thanks in advance
Matt


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