# John Deere JD 500 A injection pump



## Rob3069usmc (Apr 26, 2016)

So i just bought a backhoe needing a injection pump thinking that it would not be hard to find... But looks like i should of looked into it a little more. Its a John Deere JD 500 series A. It has a Roosa Master pump model number CSC431--7AL.. I have found a ton of pumps for the JD 500 but none look like this one. Is there another one to replace it? I know they don't make them anymore but wanted to see about getting a rebuild one. Also looking at removal and what everyone has said, All the other pumps have a window under the ID tag for timing. This one does not so does that mean i don't have to time it? I am really hitting a wall and i have to get it running to get it off the guy i bought it from land.

Thanks


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

I took a quick look at the JD Parts website and it looks like you'll have to either have your pump rebuilt (If they can get parts for it) or upgrade to the newer style pump. This means you'll have to change the injector lines as well since they mount to the pump differently.

You can see the parts page and info at http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

(hope that link works and hope this helps)

Either way you will need get the engine timing in line before you remove the old pump to make things easier when you go back. Remove the valve cover, turn the crankshaft until the timing marks show just a few degrees before TDC. (can't remember if the timing marks are on the flywheel or front pulley) If the valves for #1 cylinder are loose, you're timing is good, if they're tight, rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees. Valves loose on #1 cylinder and timing marks on crank at about 6 degrees BTDC and you're ready to pull the pump out. But ... make certain that no one turns the crank or engine while the pump is out or you'll have to start over.

If you have to get a newer style injection pump it will have the window you mentioned so you can see the pump timing marks when you start to install it.

The newer style pump will most likely be a Stanodyne since they bought out Roosa Master years ago.

Mark


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

Here's a link to a rebuilt pump with numbers that almost match yours. I am in no way affiliated with the business, nor have I ever bought anything from them, their name and page came up in a Google search. Maybe this will give you somewhere to start?

http://www.thoroughbredtractorparts...crews--CBC431-7AL--2-Year-Warranty_p_587.html


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## Rob3069usmc (Apr 26, 2016)

Mark, Thanks for responding... The link you gave me is just a blank john deere parts page. Did not know if that's what you ment to send or if it was going to have the replacement pump on there. Any chance you know the pump model number that replaces the CBC? I just need to get the exact parts list together that i need. Thanks for your help.

Rob


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt

Click on the link above, type your model # into the "model search" box and then use the alphabetical index to find injection pump. You'll need the engine SN to make sure you have the right pump.

Did you see the second link I posted? The one to the rebuilt pump? You might call them and see what the difference is between a CSC and a CBC series pump.


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## Rob3069usmc (Apr 26, 2016)

So I found and got my CBC pump. OK so here is my problem. I got the motor to TDC and took the old pump off. As far a timing goes on the pump I am guessing that the screw at the bottom that shows the shaft with the hole is the timing mark? Well I tried to install it with that mark showing and the motor at TDC and could not get it to fit it was like 1/4 of an inch from being all the way in. The only way I got it to fit was to rotate the shaft 180 degrees and then it went right in. Got everything back together, Tried to start it and nothing. It will act like it wants to start but won't. I am getting black smoke from the exhaust so I know I'm getting fuel. Do I need to take the pump back off and put it back to where it was? It was a very tight fit when I took the old one off and the new one went right in so I'm figuring that's my problem. Looking at the end of the shaft it looks like it can only go in one way, am I wrong to think that? Any insight would be great.


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## Rob3069usmc (Apr 26, 2016)

Anyone? I really need to get this backhoe up and out of this guys yard, I'm In the Military and I am leaving at the end of this month for training. So time is against me.


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## dcollette (Feb 1, 2019)

did you end up figuring this out? I have a 500A as well with the same pump. I am about to remove it and have it resealed and would like to know how you got yours aligned properly after you got a new one. thanks!


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

It will only go on 2 ways.. the correct way & 180* out of time..
Look at the mounting flange, up around the middle of the pump..
Is there a "peg or post" sticking up??
IF YES, THATS your timing pin for the pump.. just take it loose, flip it over & it'll drop in when u have the engine & pump timed correctly..
IF IT DOES NOT have that peg/post.. remove the screw plug & use the back side of a small drill bit.. to act as your peg..sorry but I forget the size.. 1/4" maybe?
Whats wrong w/ your pump?? Not every fuel shop can do them.. so ask..
I was the only one in my shop{place I worked} that knew those pumps.. IDK what they're doing now.?? probably sh!!ting them out the door.?? or sending them to another fuel shop.. but if I had to guess, I'd pick #1.. Lol


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## dcollette (Feb 1, 2019)

The pump works great, it just leaks. A lot. Pretty constant drip out of the throttle linkage. Looking at the diagrams pretty much the whole thing appears to need to come apart to change the seals. I’m going to attempt myself. I have a local 3020 with a rebuilt dB pump someone is parting out so worst case is I can’t get the cb going I’ll grab that setup and convert. It’s a great machine, I only use it 5or so hours a week at my house. I just hate to see it pissing fuel all over my yard lol. I see Deere has an SN-2045 manual for these pumps. Anyone know of a pdf available online? My google skills are coming up empty.


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## dcollette (Feb 1, 2019)

As for the timing marks, Is what your saying going to be visible with the pump mounted on the engine?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

HEED MY WARNING.. UNLESS the leak is at the actual "throttle" portion of the pump.. where it pivots on "the stick".. DO NOT TRY to take it apart.!!!!
There are 2 orings on the pivot..1 behind the throttle hook-up & another behind the blank end.. They are VERY SPECIFIC ORINGS.. A kit costs over 100.00..
More in the neighborhood of 130.00..
What happens is> the actual components wear down the metering sleeve{stick} & they start to leak.
SOMETIMES new orings will take care of the problem..I've had pretty good luck fixing them BUT, I have the correct parts..
There are no new parts available for them.. so ur taking a HUGE gamble..unless your just changing the orings.. Good luck.
Send me a prvt msg w/ your home email & I'll send u a present.. TPG


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## dcollette (Feb 1, 2019)

TPG, I PM’d you, I think. Let me know if you got my email address.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Yes Sir, I got it.. it sounds as tho u already have a break down from Deere?
The rack & gear can STAY PUT, just pry out the orings.. Make note of what position your lever is at IDLE, BEFORE u take in apart..
I "think" u got shafted on the kit.. What part # did they sell u.??


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## dcollette (Feb 1, 2019)

Stanadyne part# 24368 gasket set. It also has 19740 Rev. 05/15 on the bag. They were the only source I could find so I guess that was the price I paid lol. Oh well. The kit probably has more seals and o-rings than my pump needs


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Make certain you have the correct kit, and replace every part supplied. That is essentially the injection system from the old 3020 John Deere, and the original synthetic rubber components are not compatible with diesel complying with today's standards, and is guaranteed to fail if it gets fed any biodiesel blended fuel. You want the genuine current proven components from a professional rebuilder. Avoid the kits from the Ebay crowd or you will be repeating the rebuild very soon.


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