# Bush Hog RPM's, Etc.?



## Suburban Plowboy

I moved into my new place, complete with tractors that belonged to the seller. Yesterday I got the Kubota L3710 running. Today I fired up the bush hog for the first time.

I only ran the bush hog for a few yards, to see if it worked. It functioned, but it didn't seem to do a whole lot. It seemed like the blade was kind of high off the ground, and it didn't cut all the grass. It pushed some of it over. Now I have questions.

1. How fast should I run the engine? The tachometer has a notation that says something like "540 RPM PTO" on it. Is this a maximum value? Minimum? Recommended?

2. How low should I expect a bush hog to go? I don't want to go around hitting things with it. I suppose the seller had it set where it is for a reason.

3. Is a bush hog adjustable with hydraulics, or do I rely on the pin that sets the rear wheel?

4. The tractor has a front end loader with some kind of fork attachment which, I believe, is for moving downed trees. Should I always leave the loader in the down position when I quit? 

The fork attachment would be a real pain to remove. It's hard for me to believe the seller mowed his pasture with that thing hanging out there, but I think that's what he did.

The manual was a bit confusing. It said to run the motor for 5 minutes before doing anything with the tractor. This information was near some pages about cold weather, but it was not clear that the warm-up instruction was related to cold weather. Please tell me I don't have to sit on this thing for five minutes to get it warm in 85-degree weather.


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## RC Wells

When using the brush hog always run the engine so the tachometer is on the 540 PTO rpm line. If the tractor is equipped with a hydrostatic transmission, always operate at the 540 PTO rpm line or slightly above when driving. Then at the 540 mark when running a load on the PTO.

You can set the implement as low as it will go without the blades hitting the ground. Adjustment is both the wheel and your hydraulic three point. Experiment until you find the best settings for your application. The front of the hog is usually just slightly higher than the rear for the most efficient operation.

Be sure the blades are sharp and in good condition, no cracks.

Post a photo of the forks for advice as to their purpose. Brush forks usually have a "thumb" and third valve for gripping like a clamp. Manure forks have a flat row of tines, and pallet forks look like what you see on a forklift.

It is a good idea to let the loader hydraulics "relax" when storing the rig. This is done by dropping the loader arms when shutting down, then rocking the hydraulic control valve once the tractor is shut off. You will hear system pressure release ad the loader and attachment drop into a resting position once the engine is off. Some do this and others do not, but over time it saves leaks and extends valve life.

Kubota has an excellent quick attach option for loader implements, just lift two levers and back out of the forks, bucket, etc. Chat with your dealer, it is worth the price if you do not want the hassle of removing the loader itself. Bur most people just raise the loader arms and then tilt the forks all the way down when operating a PTO attachment in the field.

All diesel tractors should be allowed to reach operating temperature before running the engine under a heavy load. It has to do with the design of the pistons in the engine and the need for them to expand from heat before loading the engine. Time to do this is usually around 5 minutes, but the tractor can be driven to the work site after about 45 seconds of warm up in normal weather conditions.

Kubota tractors are among the best in today's market. You will like it and wonder how you got along without.


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