# ballast questions...



## O-o (Dec 9, 2015)

I've decided to fill my rice/ag rear tires 75% with RV antifreeze for stability. Will I be able to plug tire holes with this stuff in the tires? Should I change the valve stem to metal?

Thanks in advance!

YNM2210D


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Greetings from the tractor forum O-o.

I presume the RV antifreeze is not corrosive, otherwise it would be foolish to expose your rim to it. Others put fluid in tubeless tires, so they must be able to plug them without incident or we would hear about it. If a plug will prevent air leaks, it will certainly prevent fluid leaks. Rear tires are low pressure (12-14 psi). As for the valve stem, you might consider going with a stainless steel valve stem, especially if the RV antifreeze is costly. Your call.


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## Ebenezer (Nov 2, 2015)

Check out Rim Guard www.rimguard.biz, around here some I know are using calcium chloride but this may interesting to you.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

RV antifreeze oxidizes and turns acidic over time, and is for seasonal use only. That type of antifreeze will destroy your rims if you are running tubless tires, and will corrode the air and fluid fill valves on either tubeless or tube type tires.

The fill valves for fluid filled tires are not the same design as the valves used on air only tires, and have a nut that locks them into the rim to avoid failure. Again, tube or tubeless tires use different types of valves.

You local tractor or agriculture tire dealers will carry a bio type fluid that is non-corrosive and will last forever. That is the best solution for ballasting tires. 

Calcium chloride was the choice for decades, but the newer bio fluids are far better for the tires and wheels, and for the environment.

With any fluid filled tire it is more difficult to patch a leak from a puncture. The usual method for tubless tires is to set the leaking area above the fluid level and use one of the insert and glue type patching kits where the patching material is forced into the tire casing. The tube types will have to be pumped dry, dismounted, and the tube patched.

Randy


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## O-o (Dec 9, 2015)

Thanks for the responses!

My thinking on ballast has evolved. I no longer wish to fill tires with any liquid because fixing flats would be a nightmare. 

I was looking into wheel weights, but they seem impossible to obtain for my YNM 2210D. 

I talked to the shop who sold me my tractor. I explained the above points and he asked why I wanted ballast. My answer is I live in hilly terrain and am concerned about rollover.

He suggested that I switch my back tires so the dish is reversed, but not the tread. It may give me an extra foot in width at no cost. This seems like my best plan. 
He also said I could put weights on my 5' scraper.

I can't wait to reverse my rear wheels now! :bouncy::bouncy::bouncy:

PS: The nearest Rimguard dealer is far, far away in another state.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

It is best to keep you ballast on the wheels or in the tires. Since liquid ballast does not rotate with the tire it minimizes stress on the rear axle and transmission.


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## O-o (Dec 9, 2015)

skunkhome said:


> It is best to keep you ballast on the wheels or in the tires. Since liquid ballast does not rotate with the tire it minimizes stress on the rear axle and transmission.


Good points... I spend enough time repairing our cars/trucks.

I may end up fabricating some wheel weights before summer.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Skunkhome said it better than I ever could. :thumbsup:


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