# 1960 601 gas WorkMaster dies when warm - now no spark



## Ford 601

My 601 wouldn't start. Changed distributor cap, dust cover, rotor, points and plugs. Installed a new carburetor and sediment bowl. Starts great now and runs smooth for a few minutes then starts missing. Turned it off but it would not restart. Waited several hours and it fired up, fine. But after a few minutes same thing happened. Read a 2010 thread on this forum for an 8N that dies in the same way. Seems like I should: check oil bath for clean oil, see if vent tube is blocked (not sure where this is), replace distributor condenser, and not sure how to check the new carburetor for a flapper. Suggestions? Thanks!


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## Ultradog

First of all, I do not know your skill level so must assume you know how to correctly install and gap your points.
Tell us what kind of electrical system do you have on your tractor? Original 6V positive ground or has it been converted to 12V negative ground?
There are two ways to fix your tractor. You can start throwing new parts at it till you have an entirely new machine or you can Investigate what the problem is.
The latter way is much cheaper.
Always, always start with your spark. VERIFY that you have a bright bluish white spark that will jump at least 5/16".
It requires No tools to pull a plug wire and lay or hold it near the block and spin the engine over to check. Short or yellowish spark Will Not Do.
When the tractor quits or starts to miss/stumble immediately get out of the seat and check your spark.
If no or weak spark run a jumper wire directly from the battery to the coil. That is a simple way to check if your keyswitch is working properly and providing adequate power to the coil.
Does it start and stay running with a jumper?
If not, for the next steps we need to know your voltage (6 or 12) and what type of coil you have and if any ballast resisters are in place.
Look on the side of the coil for any writing and post back what you find.
This stuff is not complicated.
I'm just a dumb carpenter and can do this and so can you.


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## PJ161

I would look at the coil, heat sometimes breaks them down, if it's original, they do go bad and not expensive to replace, also the new condensers are mostly crap and I've found some don't work for very long, if you have the original, put it back in to try. I restore antique British sports cars for a hobby and when restoring the ignition system, a lot of parts come from the Orient and very poor quality, I've even thrown some "new" parts in the trash and used the old original parts instead as they worked better. Assuming your fuel system is clean, I would definitely check the coil. Just another option. PJ


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## Ford 601

Thank you for your help! Have not had time to work on this lately but now it's getting urgent as spring is setting in. And as for my skill level I'd say backyard mechanic but have only occasionally worked with distributors/carbs from the 80s. This 601 Workmaster is a 1960. It's a 6V + ground gas 4 cylinder. I had intermittent spark on the plug wires so I replaced the wire from the side of the side mount coil to the side of the distributor. Tractor started up great and ran for 45 minutes. Then bogged down and wouldn't restart. I added a run a jumper wire as suggested above - still no spark. I added a new coil with ballast resisters and changed from points/condenser to electronic ignition. Still no spark. I'm a bit miffed. Is there an electrical trouble shooting list to work my way from the spark plugs wires backward (or something similar)? Thanks again!


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## pogobill

Just tossing this out there, but you changed the coil wire... I wonder if it recommends a copper core plug wires for this tractor?


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## Ford 601

Thanks, I didn't see anything about copper core plug wires. I will check.

So I just called the tech rep at the electronic ignition vendor (PerTonix). He confirmed my wiring of that is correct. Then I tested the voltage a bit. I have 6.2 on the battery without starting. It lowers to 5.4 when pushing the starter switch. I tested the power and the ground on the distributor and the coil wires. I have ~6v going in and a good ground but nothing at the spark plug end of the plug cords. So something isn't working inside the distributor, but everything (excluding the lower housing) is "new." I'm thinking SOMETHING new is defective (like cords, rotor, dust cap, distributor cap)? I've heard sometimes new parts don't work. Thoughts? Thanks!


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## FredM

check inside the distributor cap to see if there is a carbon contact in the center of the cap, this is either spring loaded or fixed, when the cap is placed onto the distributor, the carbon contact has to press against the top of the rotor to enable the spark from the coil lead to be fed to the plug wire contacts inside the cap.


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## Arron R Gaylord

Solution?????


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## Joe.S.AK

Sure would be nice to know just what it was. 

I would have confirmed the actual wiring to exactly what the "should-a been" was supposed to be - and then continuity checked all the wires. Same with the Ignition switch, as well.

I have a '40 9N front Dist 12v that I am almost done converting to Pertronix Elect Ign w / round coil (1247XT kit) and so I hesitate to jump in on something where I shouldn't. 

With all the new parts it's hard to actually narrow down there where the problem is, although no spark does seem to be the start of the troubleshooting process, though.

So, 601, Wha' Happened?

- Joe -


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