# HELP!!!! Electrical issues



## robh083 (Mar 30, 2018)

So over the weekend I discovered that my alternator on my Ford 2N was bad which cause my battery to go bad. Both were old anyway, so I replace them both. Hooked everything back up the way I taking it off. I have done dozens of alternators in my lifetime on cars and what not so I'm pretty familiar with how an alternator gets hooked back up. However the Ford 2in is a different Beast. It's supposed to be a 3 wire alternator. You've got the one post on the back, and then the clip that goes in the side with two wires. The wire from the post on the back goes directly to the amp meter. And I'm not exactly sure where the other two wires go. I've got 13 .5 volts coming off the alternator without the clip plugged into the side of the alternator. But when I hook up my portable amp meter to my battery it reads 12.41. It's pretty steady at 12.41 but it should be up around 13 or 14 correct? But then when I plug in the clip on the side of the alternator the volts automatically go down to 12.21. I unplug it, they go right back up. Can't figure this out. I like that the voltage goes right back up when I unplug the clip from the side of the alternator, however it still should be up around 13 or 14 volts with the clip plugged in. I don't know if maybe my amp meter is bad, or what exactly is going on. Any help is appreciated as I need this thing to run as it should because I've got a busy mowing season coming up. Thank you. I've attached a couple pictures. One is the new alternator, and the other one I believe is the voltage regulator. But I'm not exactly sure.
















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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

It appears to be an internally regulated Delco alternator, but the model number is not visible, so I am guessing. If that is the case there is no connection to the ammeter. The main power terminal connects to the positive post on a 12 volt battery using a fusible link, and to the right blade on the duplex connector (facing from the back). The left blade is a light terminal for idiot lights like used on modern equipment and automobiles, or to an accessory that is looking for limited amperage positive power when the alternator is running (often called a switched battery positive terminal).

The ammeter no longer figures in the equation for the power feed from the alternator, and should be bypassed.


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## robh083 (Mar 30, 2018)

Ok sooooo run with no ampmeter? And if so, just remove the wires from the meter
And fix them together some how? 
Would that be why the power isn't getting through. Fuse? I have to buy a fuse and put between the alt. And the battery?
And plug the spade clip back in? 
Sorry lots of questions lol
Just trying to understand so in can get this thing going like it should. Thanks 

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The kid at Steiner tractor does a good video on the subject: http://www.steinertractor.tv/wrenching-with-rachel/6-to-12-volt-conversion-on-a-ford-8n-mp4/189272--68621322/ In her video the original Ford inductive ammeter has been replaced somewhere along the line with the shunt type, so she shows how to wire that into system so the charging is through the ammeter.

Here is the wiring diagram when retaining a good ammeter: https://www.steinertractor.com/products/pdfs/FDS1084.pdf And another: http://www.myfordtractors.com/12volt02.shtml

The above wiring schemes require the ammeter to be in good working condition. You will also see that only part of the alternator current is actually shunted through the ammeter, lighting and any accessories are directly fed by the hot lead from the alternator, rendering the ammeter less than accurate, and most often blowing the shunt in the ammeter if the alternator fails. But, some people like to stare at a compromised inaccurate ammeter.

Most of the little old Fords that I see have failed ammeters (shunt or induction coil blown), so the ammeter is simply bypassed and removed to eliminate a headache. Or, somewhere along the way, all the loads have been moved from the load terminal on the wiring block, to the load side of the ammeter resulting in repeated shunt failure. Once an ammeter is removed a voltmeter is installed in the ammeter hole and the feed wire connected to the hot when switched terminal of the key switch so voltage is read. Operating voltage should be 13.8 VDC when the alternator and battery are healthy.

In all cases the resistor should be changed to the higher load capacity version in order to handle the 12 volt coil. See note on the single wire diagram, in the myfordtractors example above.

Also, if the power block has rusted away, replace it so you have a common power terminal, as shown in the diagram of the resistor in the myfordtractors example.

I answered all but the fusible wire/fuse question. My recommendation is to use fusible wire.or fuse of the same rating as the alternator, and install it between the alternator feed and the solenoid where the positive battery terminal connects. Any auto parts store can provide the fusible wire or fuse holder and fuse.


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## robh083 (Mar 30, 2018)

Hmmm video was very good
Thank you for that. 
May just buy a new working harness and run it as a 1 wire system to eliminate the shit. 

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## robh083 (Mar 30, 2018)

Is there a way to bypass the amp meter and just not have one there at all? Like can I just tie the wires together or something

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