# Ford 3550 power steering cylinder question and intro.



## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

Hi all,

Just joined up. I have a new to me, 1968 Ford 3550 tlb.
I am new to the tractor world, but have turned wrenches for years.
I live in western NY State.

My question is. How do I remove the end from the power steering ram?
I took the snap ring off and now I have the brass plug. Its the plug that holds the ram assy. in the housing. The plug only has one hole, so a spanner won't work. I am afraid of breaking something so I haven't forced or heated anything up yet. Is this just a tight press fit? Or is threaded.

The cylinder is leaking pretty bad, that's the reason for the tear down.
All help is appreciated.
I can get pics if it's needed. 
EDit
I tried to upload a pic, but it doesn't seem to support the iPad.
Thanks,

joe


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## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

Trying a pic with the iPad app.

The brass plug that holds the ram in the housing is what I need to get out. The snap ring is already out.

Thanks in advance.

joe w


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

See the attached diagam of a power steering cylinder for a 3550. This is copied from the New Holland Online Parts Store on the internet. Please confirm that this looks like your cylinder. 

You should be able to do the rod seals. Hopefully, that's all that is needed. 

You have pulled the snap ring. Behind that point, there are 4 seals to remove. You may need a sharp instrument like an awl to get these out. You may also want to try drilling a hole in them and using an EZ-out (take care not to damage the rod's surface). I don't believe that there are any threads involved here, but just in case with the brass (or copper) insert, you might try to rotate it CCW with a drift and a hammer working in the single hole to determine if it is threaded. Looks like a washer on the diagram.

The piston/ram is not normally serviceable by the average guy. Requires a shop to cut the cylinder, and re-weld after repairs are made. 

Seal kits are available at many tractor supply sources.


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## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

Harry16,

Thank you. That diagram looks right.
I don't think that brass piece is threaded either. I have never seen a threaded plug behind a snap ring. But it is very tight in the bore. And as I said, I don't have much tractor experience and I don't like to break things. 
So I figure I would ask here before I cost myself more money.

I am going to try to get that out today. I will update.

I preordered a seal kit from a NH dealer and they sent me a package of 20 small orings?
I will order a seal kit from a site sponsor if possible. Anyone with suggestions on the best vendor for this type of part?

Thanks much everyone.
Joe w


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

If you are having trouble finding cylinder/rod seal kits, try Messick's Farm Equipment. Also have a look at ebay item #190750613637

To get the washer out, clean the end of the cylinder well and spray with WD-40. Maybe trying to rotate it with a drift & hammer will break any corrosion bond. Maybe air pressure from behind will help?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The cylinder in picture and diagram looks the same as on my 4000. I have done the sealing on it, only seal #9 and scraper #5 in my diagram (from workshop manual).
The brass guide is not necessary to remove, when it comes to renew the seal. What comes out after removing scraper and snap ring is all you have in there.

If the rod has a big play, of course that shortens the life of the seal.


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Hacke,
Excellent post!! How did you get the pieces out of the end of the cylinder??


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## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

Hi Hacke and Harry,

I am just getting ready to head to the barn to get this apart.
So going by Hackes post, it's number 7 that I am referring to as the brass piece. Thats only refered to as a washer. 

My replacements parts should be 5-10 on that diagram.
I will try air pressure first.
Hacke, how did you get that out? I think it will be easy now that I'm pretty sure that there is no threads. 
Thanks for the parts lead Harry.

Thanks guys,
Joe w


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Hi all,

Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought that the brass part was something under #10, but know I understand that all you have taken away from the piston is scraper #5 and snap ring #6 and the brass part is washer #7.
I did not have any problem removing the parts, they came out without force (apart from the sealing of course), I do not remember the washer was made of brass.
Why, why, why did I not take pictures...

The washer is locked in place by the snap ring, strange that is stuck in there. It has to come out anyway in order to reach the seal.

Good luck, and please keep posting back about the progress.


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## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

Hacke said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought that the brass part was something under #10, but know I understand that all you have taken away from the piston is scraper #5 and snap ring #6 and the brass part is washer #7.
> I did not have any problem removing the parts, they came out without force (apart from the sealing of course), I do not remember the washer was made of brass.
> ...


Thanks Hacke, 

I thought we might be talking about a different brass piece. 
Update, yesterday I got sidetracked and only spent a couple minutes working on the cylinder. That washer is stuck tight for some reason. I can get it to spin by using a drift in the single hole. But it won't come loose easily.
I ordered the parts(thanks Harry). The guy I ordered the parts from gave me a tip to try.
He suggested that I drill 2 holes and put some sheet metal screws in the new holes and pry up using the Cylinder edge for leverage. He said that the washer in the parts kit is brass colored but not brass. Mine sure appears to be brass. 
I will update when I get back on it later. I hope to have time today.

Thanks again guys

Joe w


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Take care not to damage the rod finish while working in there. I think I would wrap it with electrical tape in the work area for protection.


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## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

harry16 said:


> Take care not to damage the rod finish while working in there. I think I would wrap it with electrical tape in the work area for protection.


Good idea!

Joe w


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Harry16's clever tip regarding electrical tape reminds me...
Perhaps you already know about it, the edge on the rod where the anchor washer rests can be pretty sharp. Maybe you need to chamfer the edge a little with a file if it has build up larger than the rod. Then put some electrical tape on the threads and over the edge and grease the tape a little. That way you do not harm the new parts when you slide them over.

By the way, is the o-ring kit DCPN3302A ?
It contains the o-rings for the valve and the two small ones sealing the hydraulic connections at the bottom of cylinder. 20 o-rings...I think CNH has made a universal kit, in that case most of the o-rings are of no use to you. I remember they had a kit that was very expensive, so I bought the required o-rings elsewhere. Dimensions are supplied in Harry´s parts list, if you plan to make the valve as well you need 4,5,7A and 29, 29 has thickness .070".

Just guessing:
The brass part could be a homemade solution to get rid of the rod's play. Someone has turned a piece of brass to tight fit the cylinder and pressed it in place and the hole was made to evacuate air when pressing and/or to lube the arrangement.


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## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

Hacke said:


> Harry16's clever tip regarding electrical tape reminds me...
> Perhaps you already know about it, the edge on the rod where the anchor washer rests can be pretty sharp. Maybe you need to chamfer the edge a little with a file if it has build up larger than the rod. Then put some electrical tape on the threads and over the edge and grease the tape a little. That way you do not harm the new parts when you slide them over.
> 
> By the way, is the o-ring kit DCPN3302A ?
> ...


Hacke & Harry

Thanks for the tips. I need everyone I can get.

I worked on it today. I am going to try to post pics of the pieces.
I think Hacke,is right about this being someone's repair method. The brass piece had to have been pressed in.
I got it out by putting 2 screws in the soft brass, then tapping it out with a slide hammer. The brass actually tore very easy once the holes were drilled.
Its to bad I couldn't save it, it looked like it worked nice in limiting the shafts free play.
Now I am waiting for the new seal kit to arrive. They said by tomorrow, so I will report back after I get it together.

I'm including a pic of the first parts I received. 20 orings. All the same size, and yes expensive. I think it was around 35 bucks. I will be returning that.


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## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

I'm not sure if you can read the numbers on the parts bag or slip.
It says part number 81826712
Description is kit, seals
Or pochette de joints in French

Joe w


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

> I got it out by putting 2 screws in the soft brass, then tapping it out with a slide hammer. The brass actually tore very easy once the holes were drilled.
> Its to bad I couldn't save it, it looked like it worked nice in limiting the shafts free play.


Well done, you can have a new one made if needed. I take it that the brass washer replaced washer #7. We just have to wait and see what the seal kit contains.




> I'm not sure if you can read the numbers on the parts bag or slip.
> It says part number 81826712
> Description is kit, seals


That o-ring kit is strange, Messick's says 81826712 replaces DCPN3302A. If so, there should be at least 4 different dimensions. Anyhow, if you like to do the valve, the correct o-rings are now available separately at CNH (total under $3 at Messick's).


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## Oldsrip (Dec 3, 2012)

Hello,

The parts came in. Here is a pic of the pieces. It looks like the brass piece I removed replaces numbers 7&8 on the replacement set.
7 is listed as a washer, 8 is called a retainer. It is just a washer made of cardboard type material.
I am not going to get a new piece made, I will go with the replacement kit and hope for the best.









The photo of the parts drawing is reversed, compared to the parts that are laid out.
I am going to send the oring kit back and get the valve parts from Messicks later..

Thanks for all the help guys.

Joe w.


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## hector1169 (Aug 20, 2013)

Hello, my name is Hector

I need to buy a power steering cylinder (used or rebuilt) for a 3500 ford. I have understood that it is the same for 3550.

Please, I need your help!

Thank you,
Hector Ramos
Email: [email protected]


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