# 2003 MTD (Bolens)



## TecumsehBriggs

Got this one in as part of a trade (MTD Model 13AM662F163); previous owner said it ran well, but had a "drive issue". Well, it has a drive issue alright. The P.O. attempted to change the drive belts, the longer one is all chewed up from rerouting the guide pins (for some reason), and the short belt looks like it's the wrong one. Going to order the belts tomorrow.

The engine smoked like a bug fogger when I first started it up, but continued to smoke after running awhile. I noticed silicone around the valve cover, telling me they tried to adjust the valves. They must have spilled alot of oil, because the muffler was saturated. I also noticed the gas tank was empty after I shut the engine off. I DID install a fuel shutoff valve, but forgot to close it. So, I pulled the carb & thoroughly cleaned it out, checked the fuel shutoff solenoid for operation (ok), checked the float valve condition (looked ok), installed a new float bowl gasket and pressure-washed everything, including the muffler. Now she runs without smoking!

I already had the deck removed to transport her home, since I picked up two tractors at the same time. The trailer had one on it (the Huskee) & my truck is only 38" wide on the inside. I've transported a few tractors by removing the deck, pushing the tractor into the truck & strapping the deck on top of the side boxes (my truck is a '95 GMC Sonoma (Chevy S-10) with a utility bed (side tool boxes). Anyway, I removed the blades & sharpened them, then reinstalled them. The deck is ready to go back on, but drive belts nned replacing first. This one should be ready for sale by the weekend, hopefully.

All I need now is a couple of 16.5 or 17hp Briggs OHV engines to finish off the other 2 I have sitting around. The Bolens is the green one in the pic. I'll take a better pic, but this is all I have for now. The seat is cracked but I don't have any spares, or $$ to buy any. The rest looks pretty good, tires all hold air.


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## dangeroustoys56

The bolens looks like the one I have ( mines in pieces tho) - bot it for parts from my wifes stepbrother for $10 . Basically only good things left are the chassis, hood ( complete hood with sides) and a couple motor parts- im going to use the chassis for my rat rod tractor.

Id look for a vynal repair kit in autoparts stores - if its only got a couple cracks- that should work okay- be cheeper then a new seat.


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## TecumsehBriggs

Bought & installed the belts today. Not that hard, actually. The smaller belt was indeed the wrong size. Looked like a 1/2" belt, but should've been a 5/8".

The previous owner removed & repositioned a couple of the belt keepers, stripping the holes in the frame in the process. I went to Ace Hardware, bought a few 1/4x20 flange head bolts (slightly longer than the originals) & a few steel spacers. I installed them in the correct places on the frame. Look like they belong there. Started it up & went for a drive. Guess what? NO BRAKES! I took them apart & cleaned up the pins, losing one in the process. I fabricated one out of a 1/4" steel closet door pivot pin. Put it all back together &...NO BRAKES! Then it got dark outside & dinner was ready.

I have a 2002 Huskee with the same brake system & I know it works. I'll remove the brake assembly & swap it to the Bolens to see if it works there. If not, it may need an adjustment. Otherwise, I'm at a loss...


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## dangeroustoys56

Sounds like my 97 mastercut - i put a new set of brakes on the trans before i installed it - went to mow with it and dang thing still creeps with the brakes on ( and still moves fast) - so tightened the brake bolt, then couldnt push the mower in neutral, but started it up and it STILL creeps in gear with brake on- getting frustrated to say the least.....none of my other MTD's do that.

I did forget about changing the rear belt - its still the one that came on it - im thinking its too short ( its the correct width belt) - ill try swapping another belt on and see.


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## TecumsehBriggs

Swapped the brake assembly from the red Huskee &...got brakes! The pads were worn down enough to make a difference, I guess. Now I need to swap a valve cover & gasket from one of my other tractors, straighten the tie rod & we're done! I _could_ swap a seat from another tractor, but I may try to use some black silicone to patch the seat cracks instead. After all, this _is_ for resale.


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## TecumsehBriggs

Removed & cleaned the valve cover today. There was alot of black silicone around the edges & there was oil leaking onto the muffler. Looks like the previous owner attempted to make his own gasket with silicone, but didn't allow enough time to set up before tightening down the cover, squishing out all the silicone. I'll pick up a new gasket tomorrow along with a few other parts, then install it.

I ran into a few minor problems installing the deck today, too. One bracket had an elongated hole where a connecting rod attached, so I removed it & welded a washer onto it. After I had the washer positioned correctly, I filled in around it. This made a better attachment point that is not going to wear out anytime soon. The deck fought me all the way. The adjuster for the deck, which was clean, mind you, took me 20 minutes to thread in 3 turns! Of course I was lying on my back sideways, using a ViseGrips & turning almost a quarter turn if that. I sprayed it heavily with Liquid Wrench, but it really didn't help much. Finally got it all back together & buttoned up. 

Once the valve cover gasket & cover is back on, I can start it up & check out the cut. Both blades have been sharpened & deck levelled, air in tires. I still need to grease the front end & wheel bearings, then a quick pressure wash (I missed a few spots last time I cleaned). There are 6 bolts missing from the rear of the chassis, probably because it had a bagger attached & they never replaced the bolts. I'll replace them & probably paint the rear of the chassis to clean it up a bit. I may do an oil change & install a 3/8" pipe nipple & cap to ease future oil changes. Some ArmorAll on the tires & she's good to go.

I probably only have about $30 in parts tied up in this one, not including the $100 credit I gave the PO when I sold him the gray MTD. I think I can easily get $500 for this one in my area. New pics tomorrow.


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## TecumsehBriggs

Installed the valve cover gasket today, located & installed the 6 bolts that were missing on the rear of the chassis, adjusted the shift linkage & modified the steering tie rod by welding a washer on each end to limit slop & wear. The tie rod is just a single rod that's bent at a 90 degree angle on each end. No adjustment whatsoever like it would with ball joints threaded on each end. Cost-cutting measure by MTD, no doubt. The rod was slung below the wheel spindles, with a washer & cotter pin on top. I reversed it so the rod fit downward into the spindles & just before the bend, I welded on a steel washer allowing the rod to protrude into the spindle just far enough to add a thin washer & cotter pin, making it tight. I may have to add some weld to other mounting holes around the chassis to tighten things up. 

I did get to drive her around & mow some grass in between adjustments. Runs & mows pretty good. It's listed for sale on craigslistchicago/west suburbs. Hopefully I can move this one so I can buy a few parts for the tractors I have with baggers. I know I should start selling snowblowers now, but I only have one & it's my personal machine. 

It's kind of hard to work on stuff when there's a 5 year old running around, minus the 3 hours he's in pre-school. I know I'd get alot more done if he was in kindergarten, which is all day instead of 3 hours. Next year...


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## dangeroustoys56

Another thing im not a fan of on MTD's is the steering arm mounting on the 'fan gear' mounted to the steering shaft- theres so lil clearance, and the nut comes off the steering arm more then id like ( i use a lil locktite on the threads)- you have to take the whole thing out to even tighten it.

If you ever come across a MTD with bad front axle bushings ( all slopped out and wobbling) - i use a couple steel black pipe nipples cut up and weld em to the axle - no more movement. Alot better then the cheep plastic bushings.


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## TecumsehBriggs

I've also replaced the plastic bushings with bronze bushings available at any Ace Hardware store.


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## TecumsehBriggs

Bought a good used seat for $10. Cleaned it up & repaired one small crack with black silicone & electical tape. Anyway, here are better pics:


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## TecumsehBriggs

Sold it on Monday for $400.


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