# Simplicity driveshaft seal



## Endmill (Jul 9, 2016)

Hi, I have a Simplicity Landlord 3410. It's a basic 3 speed Simplicity tractor. The right side driveshaft seal allows the gear oil to pass by it. My question is, is the seal easy to replace? Or can I simply count on that there is enough oil in the gearbox to continue running it the way it is. I don't want to open up a can of worms. My other concern is the part of the driveshaft assembly where the inside of the seal rides. I'm sure that it's worn out. I don't know if there is a replacement part available or some sort of a repair sleeve that can be put in place to stop the leak. I'm not sure how to proceed with this. Thanks in advance for the advice.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If by driveshaft you mean the smaller diameter shaft at the top of the transmission, that uses a sealed bearing, not a separate seal. If that is leaking the bearing is shot and needs to be replaced before it seizes and wears the case.

Go here and take a look at the transmission diagram: http://www.partstree.com/parts/simp...lord-3410s-garden-tractor/transmission-group/

While the bearing in not carried by that vendor, it is readily available from any bearing store. Just carefully remove the old bearing and take it in to be matched.


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## Endmill (Jul 9, 2016)

Part number 67. That's the one that leaks. Thank you for leading me in the right direction. I would appreciate any input on just how much of a job it is to tear into one of these transmissions. I just don't want to open a can of worms. Let's say I'm being careful.
Thanks 
Endmill


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

It really depends on skill with tools and patience as to the difficulty. 

My approach would be to remove the transmission. clean the case real well, drain it, then flip it on its left side and pull the cover. It usually requires a small press to push the bearing out of the case, and a good vice and socket as a push tool and another as the catch tool generally will suffice for a homeowner.

When reassembling just use something along the line of Yamabond gasket maker to seal the case. The bearing just presses in place.


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## Endmill (Jul 9, 2016)

Thanks for your reply. i have been a machinist for 40 years. I have some skills, and a good vice. Unfortunately, I am now retired and no longer have access to a press or my old shop. They have closed down. As I think about what you said, I don't know how I can lift this up to set it into my vice. I know that this unprofessional of me, but I'm wondering, As long as I focus on maintaining an oil level in the crankcase, In your opinion, can I run this tractor the way it is? The crankcase itself doesn't leak. it's just the axle seal. Thank-you again.
Endmill...............


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Once the bearing starts to walk it will grind out the aluminum case. Keep it lubed and an eye on it to assure the bearing does not seize and it is probably good for another thirty or so years.

Simplicity is like the old Toro tractors, run forever.


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## Endmill (Jul 9, 2016)

Well, I value your opinion. The transmission came out of an 1964-9 h/p Landlord tractor that I transplanted into my 1973-10 h/p 3410 in 1998. Getting another thirty or so years is very possible. Someone once told me if I pack the transmission with lithium grease, that will work just as good as using 80-90w gear oil. I wasn't so sure about that, I felt that packing that huge gearbox with grease would be a bit expensive. Also the lack of oil flowing in the gearbox also leads me to question that theory.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Lubriplate, white lithium grease for the lower units of outboards would be liquid enough to flow, but is quite expensive. Stiff grease would not lubricate, and just end up with channels where the gears, bearings and shafts run. The only location those gearboxes use grease is the axle shaft zerks, part 60.

Since it is the seal outboard of the axle bearing, you could try using a stiff and sticky wheel bearing grease like Timkin ALL78241, and a small grease gun and inject that axle zerk. It may stop the leaky seal.

I have had good luck picking those seals out of the housing after removing the wheel and the snap ring on the outboard side of the seal. It takes getting the mower on its side and a really sharp punch, and patience. If the aluminum housing gets dinged in the process, LocTite will usually keep it from leaking when the new seal is installed.


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## Endmill (Jul 9, 2016)

Thank you for your insight........ Things are winding down here in Maine. I have firewood to cut and split. I think if I get the chance next year I may give the seal replacement a shot. The illustrated parts breakdown from Partstree will be helpful. 

I remember Lubriplate. In my opinion, it is one of the top of the line grease / lubricants.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

I'm a little confused. Part number 67 is actually an axle seal. I would guess that the part referred to as a drive shaft would be the upper small diameter shaft with the pulley. It should be pretty high up in the transmission and is not submerged in oil but lubricated by migration of oil that should occupy only the lower 1/5th of the transmission. The proper oil level is checked at the street elbow (part 86) just above and behind the axle on the lower right side of the transmission. The transmission case is cast iron and it is common for it to seep oil about the driven shaft seal and shifter rod on the shift tower.


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## Endmill (Jul 9, 2016)

Yes, part #67 seal is what is leaking. My original thinking on this thread was, will I be able to feel confident using my tractor, knowing that is enough gear oil in the transmission with that seal leaking, or do i need to tear into it and replace the necessary parts. I wasn't confident running it the way that it is, knowing that i could cause any damage with the low oil level. 
I understand that the proper oil level should be maintained. At the moment, I do not have access to a press to disassemble the transmission. The inside diameter seal #67 rides on what looks like a tube, that I believe is part #59 or #69. From what I can see that part has a wear line on the outside diameter causing gear oil to pass by the seal.
The seal maybe fine. I wasn't sure what was involved in replacing the seal and the tube. I would have to change them both. If it is part #69, it doesn't seem to be available. If that's the case I will no doubt have to ether repair it or make a new one from scratch. I do have access to a lathe. I didn't want to open a can of worms and be without my tractor. That's why I came here for some valuable support.


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