# Ford 4500 3-cyl. Diesel with starting problem



## chsmart

hi I have a question about what to try next with my Ford 4500 3 cylinder diesel. When I put it away about 3 months ago, everything was fine. Now it cranks fine (battery OK) but won't fire. With ether it pops over right away. I disconnected outlet from injector pump and have ascertained that no fuel is exiting the pump. Anything easy I can try? I would really love to have something else to do besides take the pump off and send it away for an expensive rebuild. The injector pump does not appear to have a maker's label on it... did Ford make their own for this tractor? Any advice much appreciated, Thanks.


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## 2jdeeres

You say you have no fuel leaving the pump, are you getting fuel to the pump??


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## Hacke

First, make sure you have fuel to the pump inlet. If not so, pump is not able to work properly. The usual problem is air in the fuel lines and you need to bleed the pump. Of course it may be a broken pump, but first, make sure it is not.

If you do not have fuel to the pump inlet, disconnect the fuel line that goes from tank to filter assembly at the filter assembly and make sure diesel comes through the tap and line properly.
If not, empty the tank from diesel, remove the tap and check it. It has a filter that may be clogged, tap may be broken and is not letting fuel through. If the tank has lot of crud in it, clean it. Todays diesel can build up various slimy and solid obstacles that plugs the filter, when left in the tank for a longer period. Put things back and refill tank with fresh diesel.

When you are sure there is fuel to the filter assembly, check that fuel is coming through the filter(s). If not, change filter(s).

Now fuel should be coming through to the inlet of the pump, connect everything and bleed the pump.


The steps to bleed the pump are covered in this manual: http://www.scribd.com/doc/19078764/...0-3000-4000-and-5000-Operators-Service-Manual
4500 has the basics from 4000, so those sections are of interest to you. You need to crank the engine a lot, good battery is needed and if you are able to connect jump start cables to the battery on another vehicle with it's engine running while cranking, the better.

And please, use ether carefully. It is harmful to the engine.


Regarding the fuel pump, if the three lines from pump to the injectors on top of engine are connected in a row on top of the pump, you have a Simm's piston pump. If the lines are connected in a circular array at the end of the pump, it is a CAV (Lucas, Delphi) DPA pump. None of them where manufactured by Ford.


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## chsmart

*Update on what I've tried...*

Many thanks to Hacke for your detailed reply. 

I followed the priming instructions for the pump as described in the ford 4000 manual. Fuel runs clear from the bleed plug on top of the filter, as well as the bleed plug on the side of the pump (the one that is left-center in the photo, and just above an oval plate on lower left). With a fully charged battery I cranked for 3-5 minutes with the fuel lines loose where the connect to the injectors, but not a drop comes that far. I then tried taking a fuel line off of the left end of the pump, and tried cranking with that port completely open, and again, no fuel. Not even a sign of motion in the fuel I could see pooled in the port.

I there a next step for me here? I have attached a photo of the pump. -cjs.

p.s. no more ether, I promise.


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## sixbales

In your photo of the injection pump, the kill lever is against the stop in the "kill" position. When you push the kill rod in, you move the kill lever forward on the pump about 1-1/4". Just wanted to be sure that you weren't trying to start it in the "Kill" position, or possibly the rod isn't moving the kill lever far enough forward. There is NO fuel supplied to the injectors in the "kill" position.


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## chsmart

Thanks, Sixbales.

I did some serious scraping and brushing of layers of crud off the surface of the pump before I took the picture, so that all of the parts could be seen... i think that I moved the slide to the kill position in that process. When I was cranking, I definitely had the "engine stop" pull in the IN position (run). However, I will re-try in the morning, making sure that when the pull is in the IN position that the slide moves all the way forward.


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## sixbales

It appears to me that the inner spiral sheath of the cable housing is loose??


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## chsmart

*Problem solved*

OK... As usual, I feel a little foolish in the final analysis here. The phantom "pump-problem" that I reported was indeed due to the faulty operation of the kill switch cable. Sixbales, you are very observant... and you are right about the stiff outer spiral that houses the cable between the dashboard pull and the kill valve on the pump. It had slid back enough such that when the cable is in the run position, it goes slack at the end and bows outward instead of pushing the kill open. I have re-adjusted the outer sheath and the engine stop now works properly. starts up no problem.

Thanks to all who contributed.
-cjs.


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## Lnda

a 3 cylinder ford 4600 tractor refuses to start but starts when injectors number 2 and 3 are out. What could be te problem? I tried bleeding the system but nothing, also I took the injectors to a specialist for repairs and testing. put them back, fuel is coming but still nothing...when I take out numbers 2 and 3 injectors from their chambers it idles roughly. Another funny thing is when I try to bleed the system, injector no 1 loses compression but, 2 and 3 not. Thank you in Advance!


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## EdF

Good Morning Lnda,

Welcome to the Ford / New Holland tractor forum.

Your diesel will start with 2 injectors out, but not with all 3 injectors installed?? When you pull the injectors #2 & #3, the load on the starter is greatly reduced and the starter can turn the engine over more quickly. 

My GUESS is that your cranking speed is too low. Old worn (marginal) diesels lose too much compression with slow cranking speed. Clean up all of the battery cable connections to bare metal, including ground connections. 

Your tractor originally had a 4DLT battery. If your battery is old, or lower capacity than the 4DLT original, replace it. You can get a new 4DLT battery at Tractor Supply Stores. 

If the starter "drones" onward when cranking, replace it. 

The compression on a diesel should be 400+ psi.


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