# My Murray 11/36



## murray1136 (Aug 6, 2012)

First off, this is my 2nd post and want to thank you all in advance for great info, ideas and advice!

I have a old Murray that runs and only needs a deck belt and a battery. 
I found it at a yard sale for $35 ! And I got a real decent Murray 42" deck for $10 !

It is leaking oil pretty good so I will have to put a new seal in. Never been that deep into a small engine before but that wont stop me.

I do have some questions too. I have no idea how to decipher the age....
Model # 7-36508
Date of manufacture 1107

I will get some pics before I even clean it up so I can show my progress on it. And may even get them up here tomorrow as long as I can figure it out. Whats the easiest way to get pics up here?

The motor has great compression, pull start is easy, recoil is perfect for pull string. Battery is shot, but runs great electrical looks as good as you would expect from a 25+ year old machine. The deck and really overall it looks pretty decent not too much rust.


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## BBY_Murray (Jun 14, 2011)

murray1136 said:


> I do have some questions too. I have no idea how to decipher the age....
> Model # 7-36508
> Date of manufacture 1107


I answered this on the other board, but here it is again......

Your tractor was built in 1987. The D.O.M. [date of manufacture] is the 4 digit number and it goes day/day/day/year, so it was built on the the 110th day of 1987.

The 7 before the 36508 model # denotes the model year, also 1987. Normally the year of manufacture will match the model year but sometimes the date of manufacture is the year before. It would not be unusual for a 1987 tractor to be built in late 1986, kind of like the automobile industry.


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## murray1136 (Aug 6, 2012)

Thanks again! 
And sorry I joined three forums, and obviously asked the same daRn question....


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Another quick way to tell the year is if the tractor has a briggs motor original to the tractor - the 1st two numbers of the code on the motor tell the year ( its within a year or so of that).

I mentioned in the other post about changing a pan gasket/crank seal - i was sort of leary about doing it ( was my first time) , but it actually was really easy - the crank seal i put in with a socket and tapped it in - went way easier then i thought . 

Way cheeper doing it yourself then taking to a shop - all of $6 for both and about an hour total from engine removal to replacing back on the chassis.


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## BBY_Murray (Jun 14, 2011)

murray1136 said:


> Thanks again!
> And sorry I joined three forums, and obviously asked the same daRn question....


At least you didn't get three different answers.


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## murray1136 (Aug 6, 2012)

Thanks - Dangeroustoys56! 
I will have to clean it all up so I can see if & where it is leaking if at all. But if it is i will be like you a little weary at first. Ive turned so many wrenches on my cars / trucks & semi trucks. Just a little intimidating how much smaller scale these riding mowers are! 

:friends: Thanks BBY 
I guess I didn't think I would get "_caught_" :hide::hide: 
Thanks for the straight answers!!


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

No problem - it also gives an excuse to see if theres any pieces floating around inside the pan as well - mine had dirty oil build up , thats about it.

Ive pretty much tinkered with everything on a tractor - had to fix a 5 speed trans ( was my first attempt) - hadnt really done any internal motor work before - the gasket/seal change was a first .

I have a couple parts motors around id like to attempt to get running again sometime - that should be interesting....


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## bjenner (Feb 10, 2013)

I have one to email me at [email protected] and I would like to now what it would sell for?


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