# GT6000 (2012) drive belt question



## xjet

I am trying to replace my drive belt, due to other posts I've read on the forum, and am at an impasse. I am looking at page 28 of the manual (To Replace Motion Drive Belt) and at my mower, and I get confused. Following the instructions to remove the belt worked out until I found the belt is looped around the steering shaft. Looking at the diagram, it appears that both sides of the belt should be on the starboard (edit: should be port) side of the shaft, but mine I would actually have to remove the shaft to pull the belt. Am I doing things wrong, or is it just a bad picture?

Manual part number is 918.28867, page 28, picture is attached.


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## jhngardner367

That seems to be a view from the bottom ,looking up. The belt should pass between the frame,and the steering plate,with both sides of the belt to one side of the steering shaft.
If the belt is actually on each side of the shaft,it's possible that it was installed wrong,at which point you would have to remove the shaft.
I recommend taking a picture of it and posting it here,to be certain. Pictures/diagrams in manuals can be very poor,and misleading.


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## bolillo_loco

xjet:

Are you sure about that model number? Would it be, Craftsman Tractor model #917288670?

Here's another schematic from a different angle.










Did you solve your dilemma, did the diagram help, and or do you need further assistance?

Cheers,
bolillo


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## harbin

I ran into this as well on my 2011 and found the manual is wrong. Steering column has to be loosened and pulled up to allow belt replacement. A sears tech I had at my home for a different problem confirmed this.


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## jhngardner367

That's a common problem with manuals,unfortunately. It does seem silly to have to do all that to replace a belt . Too bad the engineering people don't have to try to repair their designs,before they put them into production.
If they did,I'd bet things would be easier to repair/replace/maintain !
Thanks for the info,harbin. By the way,where abouts in Michigan are you ? I moved here from Lansing,last March.


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## xjet

Thank you all for your responses! I am unfortunately out of town for a week, at work, but will be back to this project Tuesday, and will be trying again. I love this site, and how helpful y'all are!

-> jhngardener, I will take a picture as soon as I get home...

-> harbin, did you watch the procedure? Was it difficult to pull the column? I haven't even looked at what might be required, but if I need to go that route, so be it.

-> Bolillo Loco, Can you confirm, in your diagram, is part 56 the drive belt? If so it looks like it clearly bypasses the steering column!

Thanks for the awesome diagram, that is way more useful than the one I found in the manual.

JDM


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## harbin

I'm right outside Grand Rapids in Ada.

It wasn't too bad pulling it, once you loosen all the bolts you have to pull the steering column up a few inches. I did it alone but another set of hands would help. I can confirm it tomorrow but I think all you need are some wrenches and torx sockets.


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## xjet

Well, I finally got home, and got the steering column pulled (two 9/16th bolts attached awkwardly, but not too difficult) and had my wife lift the steering wheel, while I fed the belt through. Pretty quick operation, but I did see a new problem. The Flat (Idler) pulley is completely chewed up. It rotates freely, or feels like it does, anyway, but it was worn almost completely flat on two sides. Any idea what may have caused this? I've ordered both pulleys (why replace just one, at $10 each) and will now have to wait again, for my next trip home, before I am able to get to this. I am really not impressed with this tractor, considering it has 61 hours on the Hobbs meter, and is already having issues with it's cheap plastic parts. It is a good thing my part of California is mid-drought! *lol* always a silver lining.


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## bolillo_loco

Glad to see you got it fixed.

Hobbs meter... As a former aviation buff, I've not heard that term used in quite a while.



xjet said:


> Any idea what may have caused this?


I do! People have been trained to buy something new. It's called consumerism. I've witnessed this over the past five or six decades, and working on old equipment manufactured between 1900 - 1970, as well as having personal knowledge of everything made after 1970, I've noticed a pattern. Build it cheap, make it so it fails quickly, and that way people will be back to buy another one. With each decade, I've noticed a definite decline if fit, finish, and quality. 

Chinese bearings with Chinese mystery steel on a plastic pulley is a combination for premature failure. 



xjet said:


> I am really not impressed with this tractor, considering it has 61 hours on the Hobbs meter, and is already having issues with it's cheap plastic parts.


I am not very impressed either, and it took every ounce of strength to not go on a tirade about the fascism of consumerism, undermining the economy, and a boatload of other issues all tied into why everything in the stores today is, well, shoddy at best. 

Our 2011 GT6000 had 50 hours on the meter when I noticed the rod ends for the tie rods were failing. They were part of the tie rods, so there was no way to replace them. Our older Craftsman II tractors have automotive type rod ends on a tie rod, and one is left hand while the other is right hand thread so nothing has to be taken apart for toe in/out adjustment. 

Note the slop. The "tit in the window." It has considerable up/down movement, and it was always greased at the specified hours of operation as per manual. 















I picked up some made in the USA Heim joints. 









cut off the non-adjustable rod ends that were shot, drilled holes, and tapped it for 3/8 - 24 male rod ends
















Before









After









The steering sector looks like it was never greased from the factory. I don't know if dirt would be attracted and cause premature wear, but some sort of lubricant should be used. Even if it's the spray on graphite lube. I just used axle grease. Note the scarring on the third photo and what looks like lamination in the Chinese mystery steel.























*To be continued...*


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## bolillo_loco

*Continued from previous post:*

After switching to the Chinese Deestone F-2 three rib tires, 'cause apparently nobody in America makes 8" 3 rib tires, The steering effort was reduced considerably, which means less wear on the steering components, and it also turns a lot better. The turf tires just slid, and yes, I slow down to a crawl when making hard turns. This also brought the tires more into track. The wheel track of the front wheels was considerably wider than the rear wheels. Since the tractor's black, I painted the wheels white to make them pop.























Here in lies the crux of the problem. "_Assembled _in the USA."









Of low quality parts, plastics, and metals made in _you know where_









I seriously tried talking my father out of purchasing the 2011 GT6000 brand new 3 years ago. I implored him to pick up a John Deere 430 or at least a 318 or 420, but he'd have no parts of a 20+ year old tractor. At the time, a used 430 was cheaper than the GT6000. I just didn't have enough cash on hand to foot the entire bill myself, and he was in a hurry to buy a new one. It is what it is, and now we're stuck with it. 

They're fair grass cutters, but the deck seems to lose its alignment quite a lot. All this thing does is cut grass. I use the old GTs for firewood, yard roller, and gardening. 

Thanks for reading.

Cheers,
bolillo


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## jhngardner367

Exjet,believe it,or not that is common,with the plastic pulleys! I usually replace them with an aftermarket,metal one. It's usually caused by something jamming the pulley(even 10 seconds),and the belt slides,and melts it.

bolillo, I agree,that they are making things so much cheaper quality,today! I would have asked your dad this : "why do you suppose the John Deere still runs/works after 20 years?" Answer: they like the older Bolens/Simplicity/AC etc., were built to WORK,and to LAST. It was their reputation for being rugged,well-built machines,that made their name.


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## bolillo_loco

When they unloaded the 2011 GT6000, I began comparing it to the 1989 GT18 that we had. I couldn't get over how light the frame on the 2011 was. Not only was it 1/3rd as tall, the metal was nearly 50% thinner. This explains why the 2011 GT6000 frame can be felt flexing as it goes over uneven terrain. 

A few months later, pulled hitch plates and broken frame photos and threads began popping up at another forum I used to belong to. 

Then somebody posted a photo of their frame they bought off ebay to fix the broken frame on their new GT6000. I had a photo of the old 1980s through 2004ish Craftsman garden tractor frame that came with the Roper 3 speed hi/low transmission. When comparing the photos, the difference is staggering, especially when one considers that the new frame is also made of Chinese mystery steel that's 50% thinner in gauge. 

Old GT frame









New GT frame









That's quite a difference and also telling of what the rest of the tractor's built like... 

***The first photo of the older style GT frame is courtesy of *larrybl* from another forum. I can tell by the color scheme of the mower deck. It looks to be part of his _"The 'Hulk II' project."_

Thanks for reading,
bolillo


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## harbin

I'm glad to see you were able to complete the belt swap, sorry to hear you found more problems.

I'd love to jump on the bandwagon and rant about consumerism and the absolute *rap they sell in stores today, but I think that's been covered.

I will add that the problems you have with the GT6000 are not uncommon. When I first got the mower, like most others I was extremely happy with it. As things have broken and I've had to make upgrades my opinion has dropped considerably. If I could go back I'd have followed the advice of others and bought something used- like the 430 previously mentioned. Unfortunately funds are needed elsewhere, so for the now this thing will remain here for mowing purposes only.

One other thing to add is be very careful with your warranty. I'm still doing the dance with them on whether or not I'm covered. We bought in late August of 2011, and have a 3 year warranty- yet each time I call in to follow up they say my serial was registered earlier and is out of warranty. I've scanned and email and faxed in my receipt, then each time I call in we start all over again with someone new. While I really like the steering fix shown, it burns me that I have to be the one to put time and money into fixing it when they should be footing the bill. I do suppose if they fix it, it's just gonna wear out again since they would be putting the exact same problem parts back in.


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## xjet

Wow! Kicked over an ant hill with that one, didn't I?? I will be watching the steering etc, and will follow in bollilo's footsteps, when it should become necessary to do so, and will look for advice <b>before</b> I buy the next batch of pulleys, so as to get the correct metal aftermarkets. Here I was worried that I was "too hard" on my tractor, with my 4 acre yard, in the foothills. Glad to know it is just that I made a bad decision when I bought it! Eventually, when the cash reserves are back up, I will look giver 'er a wax job for a sucker that wants a shiny new-ish tractor, and grab something with a little more versatility. Even when I bought this one, I really wanted something with a PTO, so next time I will get advice first!

JDM


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## PeteNM

None of these are really tractors anymore, just mowers that break down. Real tractors cost much more or are lots older, and they need to keep selling mowers. Just my two cents.


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## harbin

xjet said:


> Here I was worried that I was "too hard" on my tractor, with my 4 acre yard, in the foothills. Glad to know it is just that I made a bad decision when I bought it! Eventually, when the cash reserves are back up, I will look giver 'er a wax job for a sucker that wants a shiny new-ish tractor, and grab something with a little more versatility. Even when I bought this one, I really wanted something with a PTO, so next time I will get advice first!
> 
> JDM


I'm in the exact same situation- I thought I was too on it cutting grass on my slopes, all I have is a cart for pulling bulky stuff which I don't use anymore for fear the rear end will fail. Soon as I can, it's gonna get cleaned up and dumped for an older machine made for work, or if I can afford it something newer.

Shockingly, the sears website doesn't allow you to go back and edit or update your reviews. I even tried creating a new review but I'm blocked because I already reviewed the mower. I could always do an update with a different email address and new account...


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## bolillo_loco

The use of Heim joints was the most practical and economical manner with which to alleviate my troubles on the tractor's drag links. I wrote an an article for another forum I used to belong to. That's why I snapped so many photos. At the time of writing for the other forum, the made in USA Heim joints were less than $10.00 U.S. Dollars a piece, and I purchased them at the local MSC (Manhattan Supply Company) warehouse. At the time of the repair, the replacement drag links with non adjustable rod ends were $25.00 per side (without the lofty shipping of SearsPartsDirect). Sears also offered one that was adjustable, but it was some $65.00 - $70.00 for parts I'm convinced would fail in the first 50 hours of operation. 

The other forum I used to be a member with was full of posts from innumerable subscribers about how their new GT6000's rod ends on both drag links failed within the first 35 - 70 hours of the "Hobbs" meter, so I felt that my repair was just that, a repair that resolved the trouble with low quality Chinese rod ends. Just for reference, the American made rod ends I used are rated at 5,100 lbs of static load, which I'm sure is exponentially higher than the factory replacement female rod ends with stud that most of our tractors use. While it's _completely_ unnecessary to have such a high quality part on these tractors, they're actually cheaper and made in the USA, so the fit, finish, and quality are significantly higher than the imported 3/8 - 24 female rod end with stud. 

The Heim joints have far more range of motion than the factory types, so I had to cant them to keep the rods in their factory position. When looking at the first photo below of where the Heim joint connects to the bell crank/cam on the axle, I had to position the Heim joint on the end that connects to the steering sector at the opposite angle. Otherwise, the rods just flopped about, and it fell onto the PTO pulleys. **Note *the following photos to further illuminate my vague explanation. 
















While I had it apart, I put thrust bearings between the axle and spindle. These spindles are on the 1989 GT18, but the process is exactly the same on the 2011 GT6000. I'd read that it was supposed to make the steering easier. I guess it might work if one has a lot of weight on the front end ie, front end loader, snow blower, dozer plow or counter ballast, but I never do such things, so I noticed no lessening of steering effort. I'm not saying it did or didn't lessen the force needed, but I just didn't take any note one way or the other. Moreover, with the addition of the 4.00 - 8 F-2 three rib tires, the steering wheel was so light that it felt like power steering on a 1960s era Mopar.









**Note* how the spindles are in reasonably good condition for a tractor with more than 1,200 - 1,500 hours of year round service from 1989 through the date of service (July 2013). This tractor was greased at 25 hour intervals. It's amazing how long things of fair quality last when they're used and maintained within the parameters of their design. 











*Continued in next post...*


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## bolillo_loco

*Continued from previous post:*

**Disclaimer:* _I am not a professional mechanic, machinist, and or guru of garden tractor knowledge. Take my words with a grain of salt._ 


I've noticed a lot of discussion about cast iron front axles. Excluding the FF series tractors and axles made for tight turn technology, which are physically the same with the exception of being tapped for a bolt to accept bell cranks / cams on the bottom outside of the axle, there only seems to be two types for Craftman garden tractors. One type of axle has a 3" - 3.25" king pin while the second type has a 4" king pin. All the ones that I've seen use .75 diameter spindles/king pins and the spindles are made to accept wheels with a 3" center hub. 

2011 GT6000 cast iron front axle 917.288611









1987 & 1989 GT18 stamped steel front axle 917.255913 (1987) 917.255919 (1989)









1991 GT6000 cast iron front axle 917.250031

**Note* in the following two photos how much higher the king pin rises above the top of the axle beam. It's visually discernible compared to the more common smaller axle. 









GTV18 (early to mid 80s) salvaged axle from a scrapped local tractor somebody was throwing away.









_In my limited experience,_ the couple of three or four larger axles that have the 4" king pins were all stamped 6000J 









None of the axles I've seen whether stamped steel or cast iron have a zerk on them for the main pin/bolt holding the axle to the frame. With the cast iron axles, it wouldn't be hard to drill, tap, and fit a zerk. Here's a photo of the internals of the old cast iron axles stamped 6000J. **Note* the sleeve bushing that's 1.5 inches long. As you can tell by the rust, it's also steel. This sleeve bushing is very tight, and in my opinion if greased, it would be rather snug w/o any noticeable slop.









After gawping at the steel bushing, which obviously lasted 30 years w/o any lubrication other than what the factory may have installed, take a gander at the replacement sleeve bushing being sold today. Yes, that's a _plastic_ sleeve bushing!









Due to the inexpensive price (free.99) 'can't complain about the condition of the spindles. The king pins are tight, but the spindles are shot due to lack of routine lubrication. They're of an odd design. **Note* the pin that holds the wheel in place rather than the typical welded cups they usually have.









Going by the lack of grease applied to the spindles, it's probably safe to surmise that the blown engine was probably a result of under/over filled crankcase and or _most_ probable, a lack of routine oil changes. I didn't know the man. It was a roadside find.

*Continued again due to limited ability to upload photos per post...*

I can't fix the photo error... You'll have to sort out the photo and my mindless banter yourself 'cause I'm so technologically challenged


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## bolillo_loco

*Continued from previous post:*

Other than the ubiquitous stamped steel 80s axles on garden tractors, here are some full length photos of the most common cast iron Craftsman garden tractor axles. The following photos should make it easier to see the difference between the two size king pins. 

Most recent standard smaller king pin axle w/o tight turn technology.









Axle w/ tight turn technology and same size shorter king pin. 
**Note* arrows where axle is machined to accept the bell cranks/cams









Older GT axle with petite king pin









Older GT axle with larger king pin









That's the only difference I've noticed, _but_ I am no professional. 

Thanks for reading. 

Cheers,
bolillo


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## Farmington

This thread has been very helpful. I was trying to understand the belt around the steering shaft and now I know. I'm replacing my belt because I lose power to the wheels on hills. The belt has a couple of inches of play on the long side. I'm assuming it has stretched, do belts stretch? How much play should the belt have? Thanks


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## wjjones

Yes they can I had one stretch, and the mower would just creep along but couldnt make it up even the smallest incline. They shouldnt have more than about 1/2 inch of deflection.


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## abigobass

I also had to remove the steering shaft to install the new drive belt on my 2012 hydrostatic trans GT6000. I thought this design was ridiculous and didn't make any sense to me. The reason I changed it was because I was losing speed and power in reverse which was about 20% of what it had as a new tractor. Over the last week I now have very little reverse left at all. I do know I have a couple inches in slop in the drive belt which questions me in whether the belt was already stretched after installing it. Besides the belt what else can I look for to see why this lawn mower doesn't want to go in reverse anymore? Thanks!


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## abigobass

abigobass said:


> I also had to remove the steering shaft to install the new drive belt on my 2012 hydrostatic trans GT6000. I thought this design was ridiculous and didn't make any sense to me. The reason I changed it was because I was losing speed and power in reverse which was about 20% of what it had as a new tractor. Over the last week I now have very little reverse left at all. I do know I have a couple inches in slop in the drive belt which questions me in whether the belt was already stretched after installing it. Besides the belt what else can I look for to see why this lawn mower doesn't want to go in reverse anymore? Thanks!


Also the tractor seems to run about 75% top end compared to when it was new in forward gear.


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## wjjones

You ever lubed the pivot point for the brake/ clutch? Mine got so rusted it was pitting until I figured it out. I took it apart sanded all the rust off the bushing thats in there, and the washer. Took an old tooth brush smeared it with grease, and reinstalled it. It was atleast part of the belt slack issue on mine.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> You ever lubed the pivot point for the brake/ clutch? Mine got so rusted it was pitting until I figured it out. I took it apart sanded all the rust off the bushing thats in there, and the washer. Took an old tooth brush smeared it with grease, and reinstalled it. It was atleast part of the belt slack issue on mine.


No I havnt lubed the pivot point. But Thats worth a try. I thought for sure it was the belt until I took the old one off and layed it on top of the new one and they were the exact same size. I thought for sure the old belt had been stretched and was causing all the slack. It’s sad that a 6 year old tractor will not hardly move in reverse.


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## wjjones

Yep after awhile that pivot point travel gets less until its lubed. I didnt know either until the sears tech showed me where to service it. You can just spray it but it doesn't work as well as breaking it down cleaning it, and greasing it. I wish there was a way to tap it for a grease fitting.


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## jhngardner367

Actually they don't "stretch",...they WEAR on the inside surfaces,causing them to lose grip.
You should have no more than 1" of deflection,on the long side,with the drive engaged(Engine off).


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> Yep after awhile that pivot point travel gets less until its lubed. I didnt know either until the sears tech showed me where to service it. You can just spray it but it doesn't work as well as breaking it down cleaning it, and greasing it. I wish there was a way to tap it for a grease fitting.


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## abigobass

So where exactly in the picture are you referring as the pivot point to clean and grease? Does part 91(bushing) ride between parts 12 and 11?


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## abigobass

abigobass said:


> So where exactly in the picture are you referring as the pivot point to clean and grease? Does part 91(bushing) ride between parts 12 and 11?


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## wjjones

No its the next one back those are the engine pulley parts. If you can get down to look underneath, and push the brake/ clutch by hand you will see where the brake pivots.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> No its the next one back those are the engine pulley parts. If you can get down to look underneath, and push the brake/ clutch by hand you will see where the brake pivots.


Ok Thank you I appreciate your help!


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## wjjones

Your Welcome. Theres a bushing, and a washer in there let us know if it works out. I tried to find a link to a parts picture but I couldnt find one that wasnt blurred up. I forgot to mention if its the one Im thinking it is. The return spring shoud be hooked to it.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> Your Welcome. Theres a bushing, and a washer in there let us know if it works out. I tried to find a link to a parts picture but I couldnt find one that wasnt blurred up. I forgot to mention if its the one Im thinking it is. The return spring shoud be hooked to it.


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## abigobass

I found these yesterday as well. I’m gurssing this is the bracket your talking about?


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## wjjones

Thats the brake on the axle end of the brake rod. Follow it back towards the front.


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## wjjones

Do you have the tractor model# ?


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## wjjones

Another thing that is part of the service is purging the hydro. The procedure should be in your manual. It can also cause a lack of drive, and reverse operation. We are going to figure it out.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> Do you have the tractor model# ?


I’m working 12hrs all week so I won’t get to working on this unit until the weekend. Model number is 917.28861.


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## wjjones

I found this schematic.


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## wjjones

189 is the arm/ pivot the bushing is 187 on the diagram. I noticed you have that jacked up drive pedal rod too. I have the same 163 drive pedal rod on my brand new mower, and they had to send me a new one after only 6.5 hrs of using the tractor. I had the similar problem mine didnt want to back up very well after a quick inspection I discovered that same rod on mine was a little more bent than it should be. I pulled down to try to get it back closer to the factory bend, and it did a little better but with the cheap metal they use it will never be exactly correct short of replacing it. Check these items out, and see if any are off what they should be.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> I found this schematic.
> View attachment 36565


Finally was able to spend 30 minutes under the tractor before work today. Found the pivot point you where talking about and I sprayed the moving parts with brake cleaner and worked them back in forth with the foot pedal control. Everything seemed pretty free. When I pushed the pedal control(210) in reverse I noticed it had some slop in it before it would actually push back far enough to turn the wheels in reverse. I’m wondering if the holes in the pedal control arm(163) are whomped out? Tomorrow before work I will try to purge the trans and take a better look at the pedal control arm holes.


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## wjjones

Yep its usually a worn out part, or something out of adjustment. Look at the drive rod to be sure its not bent out of the factory bends. If it looks round/ bowed in the bend locations that will cause the drive motion to be less as well.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> Yep its usually a worn out part, or something out of adjustment. Look at the drive rod to be sure its not bent out of the factory bends. If it looks round/ bowed in the bend locations that will cause the drive motion to be less as well.


Found the problem my frame is just about snapped in half on both sides throwing off my linkage....Lol! What a piece of sh$t!!


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## abigobass

abigobass said:


> Found the problem my frame is just about snapped in half on both sides throwing off my linkage....Lol! What a piece of sh$t!!


I’m going to have a friend rig weld it and reinforce it with metal.


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## wjjones

Yep that will do it a good bead run on each side should fix you up. I used to love craftsman but they arent what they used to be. I sold mine (in my avatar) and bought a husqvarna gt52xls. Not that its better but just newer, and hopefully less I have to work on for awhile. Lets us know how it works out.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> Yep that will do it a good bead run on each side should fix you up. I used to love craftsman but they arent what they used to be. I sold mine (in my avatar) and bought a husqvarna gt52xls. Not that its better but just newer, and hopefully less I have to work on for awhile. Lets us know how it works out.





wjjones said:


> Yep that will do it a good bead run on each side should fix you up. I used to love craftsman but they arent what they used to be. I sold mine (in my avatar) and bought a husqvarna gt52xls. Not that its better but just newer, and hopefully less I have to work on for awhile. Lets us know how it works out.


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## wjjones

It was a clean break that makes it easier to line back up for welding. I have heard of them breaking like that. I just didnt think about it possibly being the issue with yours.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> It was a clean break that makes it easier to line back up for welding. I have heard of them breaking like that. I just didnt think about it possibly being the issue with yours.


I run a snow blade on it and a 3 row spring tooth to do my food plots. So I used this garden tractor as a garden tractor and busted the frame. I’m looking to buy a 30hp loader tractor this summer and hope to replace this craftsman with a zeroturn.


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## abigobass

wjjones said:


> It was a clean break that makes it easier to line back up for welding. I have heard of them breaking like that. I just didnt think about it possibly being the issue with yours.


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## abigobass

Welder buddy stopped by and welded the busted frame back together on both sides and added some angle iron to it. Called craftsman prior to having him weld it. The frame on my gt6000 has a warranty of 5 years. I noticed the frame was cracked 5 years 6 months. Lol! Most importantly my tractor runs great in forward and reverse once again.


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## wjjones

Glad to hear you got it fixed up that should hold together for years to come.


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## LazerFlash

abigobass said:


> Welder buddy stopped by and welded the busted frame back together on both sides and added some angle iron to it.


Hello, abigobass... More than a year has gone by since you posted. Did this fix your problem?


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## LazerFlash

Okay, I have found a shop that will attempt to weld a plate over each crack.  However, the guy who will be doing the welding is pretty insistent, that for safety purposes, the gas tank has to be removed. Sounds reasonable, right? Well, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to do this on my tractor. Pretty much everything that I've read or been told is that the fender(s) need to be removed, giving access to the gas tank. Well, this tractor doesn't have two fenders, but instead one large part, onto which several other things are bolted, (including the lower dash console and maybe part of the ground drive belt pulley system). 

All of that said, it doesn't seems logical that any engineer would design a tractor so that it isn't possible to replace a plastic gas tank without completely disassembling half of the tractor.

Any help would be appreciated. A video (or link to one) would make me ecstatic!


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## FredM

I would need to expect that you will have to remove the cutting deck also, have a good look around the pan and see where this is bolted, none of the driving gear will be attached as you feel it may, the pan will lift off and leave the chassis and drive gear intact, just make a start somewhere and take photos if you are worried about reassembly.
make sure he is going to weld the fatigue cracks and then weld fish plates across the welds as Hoodoo Valley suggested.


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## CraneTrainer

Well It has also happened to me. A frame failure and no reverse! Has anyone had any luck with warranty?


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