# 2009 CONQUEST 2690414 engine skipping



## wekjo (8 mo ago)

I have had this since it had 33 hours on it. It has served me well and done a lot of mowing. Currently on its 3rd engine and 2nd transmission. Hour meter can't be re-set so I really have no idea how many hours are on it. For what its worth the 1st engine B&S failed with a right side connecting rod coming thru crankcase @ 1000 hrs, I replaced with new identical B&S which had the same issue at about 1000hrs. 3rd engine is a Kohler 7000 series, that series replaced the ill-fated Courage. The Kohler has more power and I think by now far more hours than either of the B&S. I did put a cheap little fan inside the cowel which may well be why the Kohler continues to run. Yes I change oil and filters twice a year.

Anyhow, no longer having any place to work on my mowers, I had a dealer try to adjust the Kohler valves whilst replacing the trim side arbor, and got it back running on 1 cylinder. They took it back, replaced the bent push rod and returned it to me again, forgot to tighten set-nut on one valve! Ran for 20 minutes and started skipping. (Like your butt is being rocked out of the seat and the seat switch is momentarily killing engine). Took to another dealer, same dealer who installed 3rd engine, they told me switch out of adjustment, nothing wrong with engine. Mowed yard 2 times and skipping begins again. 

Due to length of turn around time at dealerships and hassle of renting a trailer, I resolved to replace every switch in the mower, due to its age and use, and hopefully I will serendipitously fix the skipping problem. It was not the seat switch, am down to more 2 switches, one is the cruise control switch which only stops you from starting it but will not kill it, and the other is the reverse pedal switch. Removed the deck and discovered that the drive belt is worn and split needing replacement (Oh Boy) and the referenced reverse pedal switch does not seem to be in line with the switch actuator, which is a metal tang. If there are any actual experts or mechanics on here the actuator is part # 48 on page 38 of the parts manual, and the switch is part #38 on page 24 of same. Metal tang is attached to and operated by a rod item 38 on page 38. Metal tang is moving front to rear in a plane outboard to switch button. Is the rod bent or was there a spacer in there? Want to get it right before I stick it all back together. This mower is occasionally operated by a female so I do not want to just remove all safety devices.


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## wekjo (8 mo ago)

wekjo said:


> I have had this since it had 33 hours on it. It has served me well and done a lot of mowing. Currently on its 3rd engine and 2nd transmission. Hour meter can't be re-set so I really have no idea how many hours are on it. For what its worth the 1st engine B&S failed with a right side connecting rod coming thru crankcase @ 1000 hrs, I replaced with new identical B&S which had the same issue at about 1000hrs. 3rd engine is a Kohler 7000 series, that series replaced the ill-fated Courage. The Kohler has more power and I think by now far more hours than either of the B&S. I did put a cheap little fan inside the cowel which may well be why the Kohler continues to run. Yes I change oil and filters twice a year.
> 
> Anyhow, no longer having any place to work on my mowers, I had a dealer try to adjust the Kohler valves whilst replacing the trim side arbor, and got it back running on 1 cylinder. They took it back, replaced the bent push rod and returned it to me again, forgot to tighten set-nut on one valve! Ran for 20 minutes and started skipping. (Like your butt is being rocked out of the seat and the seat switch is momentarily killing engine). Took to another dealer, same dealer who installed 3rd engine, they told me switch out of adjustment, nothing wrong with engine. Mowed yard 2 times and skipping begins again.
> 
> Due to length of turn around time at dealerships and hassle of renting a trailer, I resolved to replace every switch in the mower, due to its age and use, and hopefully I will serendipitously fix the skipping problem. It was not the seat switch, am down to more 2 switches, one is the cruise control switch which only stops you from starting it but will not kill it, and the other is the reverse pedal switch. Removed the deck and discovered that the drive belt is worn and split needing replacement (Oh Boy) and the referenced reverse pedal switch does not seem to be in line with the switch actuator, which is a metal tang. If there are any actual experts or mechanics on here the actuator is part # 48 on page 38 of the parts manual, and the switch is part #38 on page 24 of same. Metal tang is attached to and operated by a rod item 38 on page 38. Metal tang is moving front to rear in a plane outboard to switch button. Is the rod bent or was there a spacer in there? Want to get it right before I stick it all back together. This mower is occasionally operated by a female so I do not want to just remove all safety devices.


No one jumped up with any thoughts on the matter. Due to being old geezer I only work on this about 1 hour per day, and I have to drive across town to a garage where it sits in order to wrench on it. After replacing the drive belt (V-Beltguys.com). I addressed the issue of the reverse kill switch again. Crawling directly below it I could see that there are actually two sets of oblong holes to mount the switch, and adjust same. I mounted the new switch in the "outboard" set of holes which now puts the plunger on the switch directly in line with the aforementioned tang, and set it such that the tang was not touching the plunger. Having it all back together started it up and drove around yard a few minutes, seemed OK until I engaged PTO which immediately killed the engine. Before I spend another day pulling the heavy deck out and moving the switch back further, anyone have a thought?


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## wekjo (8 mo ago)

Again no one seems to have a thought on the matter. Moved the reverse kill switch to other set of holes, and rearward. Mower starts and deck engages with no problems now. Before reinstalling deck I did crawl under and take a photo of the pedal mounting plate and the aforemetioned holes for the reverse kill switch. Labels on photo as follows FRONT means front of mower, REAR you can figure out. WITNESS are marks where the switch holder was installed at the factory. Of all the switches on this only two are adjustable, this one and the one at the back of the cruise lever.
y.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I'm hoping someone will come on board here to help you out, but in the mean time, I'm wondering if one or more of your safety switches are worn due to the amount of hours you have on your machine. I have have an old mower I used to pull trailers and sweepers for instance, and the brake safety switch is worn to the point that I it no longer functions as it should. I almost have to push the brake pedal past the front wheel to get the tractor to start!
Just food for thought.


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## wekjo (8 mo ago)

Well I guess if you had read it you would know the issue arose because I did go through and replace all the switches on the mower, having done so I ran into another issue relating to the reverse kill switch. Thought maybe another Simplicity owner who ran into such an issue might recall my posts, take a gander at his reverse kill switch and find it might have been installed incorrectly as well. Be that as it may, at the end of the mowing season I am going to pull the deck of my other Simplicity and check the install of that kill switch as well. Thank you for your thoughts!


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Never have been a big fan of the government mandating an unnecessary safety switch that is prone to failure due to where it mounts, because they think we are not smart enough to mow in reverse without looking to see whats behind us. Whatever bureaucrat came up with the idea of mandating a reverse switch has obviously never seen a commercial zero-turn at work in a tight yard and on a tight schedule for that work day.

Join the rebellion like millions of others and just unplug that worthless reverse switch and live on the wild side. It won't kill the engine if it can't sense it's in reverse and it would apparently free up your mind and save a lot of travel time by not having to worry about how to adjust a $5 Chinese made switch. That switch is just in the ground circuit to the mags if the clutch is engaged, the trans is in reverse, and you don't activate an override switch. In the case of your Simplicity, a fancy looking $20 keyed switch, that could have been a $1 push button momentary switch. That override switch just breaks that path to ground and keeps the mags firing until you shift out of reverse.

Not trying to be smart a$$, just pointing out the simple path most people take...


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

So, the government was on to you, there eh Bob..... Now I got that darn switch as well! LOL! It works for me, I suppose. I'm too darn old and stiff to turn around and have a look behind me.... and my fat a$$ tends to come off the seat when I try, and the seat switch kicks in!
Well, the truth be known, I have the reverse function on the key switch. It goes in to that position and stays there after the first attempt to reverse.... every time. Keeps the frustration level way down. The sound of the engine and the mower keeps the critters at bay.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

I don't and wouldn't own a conventional riding mower (except for my Yanmar garden tractor). When I'm mowing with one of the z-turns, I go with the safety principal that you see on the big yellow signs mounted to the back of fire trucks..... 

"Stay back 100 feet"


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## wekjo (8 mo ago)

Bob Driver said:


> Never have been a big fan of the government mandating an unnecessary safety switch that is prone to failure due to where it mounts, because they think we are not smart enough to mow in reverse without looking to see whats behind us. Whatever bureaucrat came up with the idea of mandating a reverse switch has obviously never seen a commercial zero-turn at work in a tight yard and on a tight schedule for that work day.
> 
> Join the rebellion like millions of others and just unplug that worthless reverse switch and live on the wild side. It won't kill the engine if it can't sense it's in reverse and it would apparently free up your mind and save a lot of travel time by not having to worry about how to adjust a $5 Chinese made switch. That switch is just in the ground circuit to the mags if the clutch is engaged, the trans is in reverse, and you don't activate an override switch. In the case of your Simplicity, a fancy looking $20 keyed switch, that could have been a $1 push button momentary switch. That override switch just breaks that path to ground and keeps the mags firing until you shift out of reverse.
> 
> Not trying to be smart a$$, just pointing out the simple path most people take...


Well I live in appalachia, we are dumb as a sack of hammers. Summer ain't over until some local grandpa has knee-capped a grandchild backing over them with a lawn tractor. I have seen more than one little kid going for a ride on top of the deck of a unit like the one in your photo, while it is cutting grass. So I leave the safety switches in, fix them if they go bad, or reinstall them if they have been bypassed. I am not the first nor the last person to operate the mowers, and my gf and her progeny have been known to occasionally use them unsupervised. I try to give them some protection from their want of appreciation of the dangers involved in these powered machines. Maybe her grand-daughter will make it to the olympics as a gymnast, and not the wheelchair olympics.

On another note, a wise old lady who owned a small engine parts store once pointed out to me that back in the day when the garden tractors used open sided hoods, the engines lasted forever. But when they all went to total coverage cowling type hoods, engine life became drastically shortened. Her opinion was lack of cooling. I just sold a 1973 JD 110 for $600.00, ran like a top and the 49 year old guy I sold it too was so happy he and his mower are the same age. To my knowledge that 110 is only on its 3rd engine. My 2009 Conquest is on its 3rd engine already, and the Chinese Kohler has outlasted both the B&S combined. What I have done is add a cheapo cooling fan which turns on with the ignition switch. Sticking one in the Broadmoor too. Pictures added FYI. The Conquest also has an airhorn!


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

wekjo said:


> Well I live in appalachia, we are dumb as a sack of hammers. Summer ain't over until some local grandpa has knee-capped a grandchild backing over them with a lawn tractor. I have seen more than one little kid going for a ride on top of the deck of a unit like the one in your photo, while it is cutting grass. So I leave the safety switches in, fix them if they go bad, or reinstall them if they have been bypassed. I am not the first nor the last person to operate the mowers, and my gf and her progeny have been known to occasionally use them unsupervised. I try to give them some protection from their want of appreciation of the dangers involved in these powered machines. Maybe her grand-daughter will make it to the olympics as a gymnast, and not the wheelchair olympics.
> 
> On another note, a wise old lady who owned a small engine parts store once pointed out to me that back in the day when the garden tractors used open sided hoods, the engines lasted forever. But when they all went to total coverage cowling type hoods, engine life became drastically shortened. Her opinion was lack of cooling. I just sold a 1973 JD 110 for $600.00, ran like a top and the 49 year old guy I sold it too was so happy he and his mower are the same age. To my knowledge that 110 is only on its 3rd engine. My 2009 Conquest is on its 3rd engine already, and the Chinese Kohler has outlasted both the B&S combined. What I have done is add a cheapo cooling fan which turns on with the ignition switch. Sticking one in the Broadmoor too. Pictures added FYI. The Conquest also has an airhorn!


OK, have fun...... BTW -- "little kid going for a ride on top of the deck of a unit like the one in your photo" -- What the hell *photo* are you talking about?


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