# Help! TC40D



## Rooster375 (Oct 19, 2014)

Hi everyone. 

Helping out a friend with his TC40D loader. We used it a little over a month ago, and no issues. Shut it down for a bit to do some things by hand. When we went to trailer it, no start. Had to drag it onto the trailer with a winch. After a couple weeks, he went out, and it started right up, and ran for a while. Shut it down and started it again. Seemed fine so he shut it down again.

We went to use it again this weekend, and no start. I'm a gas mechanic, not diesel, but I do know some basics about them. We took out the fuel filter and it should be replaced, but we cleaned it up for now, and reinstalled. Then we bled the air out of the lines. Still no start. Disconnected the tubes at the injectors, cranked, and not even a drip coming from the tubes that feed the injectors, so we reconnected the lines. Picked up some diesel safe starting fluid, and using that, it started right up, and we kept it going for 15-20 seconds using the starting fluid. As soon as we quit spraying the fluid, it died, and still no start up.

My diagnosis is, the injector pump is dead in the water, and not feeding diesel to the injectors. Does this sound correct? Anything else we might try? Anything I might have missed?

I had the idea that there may be a rebuild kit for it. If so, where would we find such a kit? And are these injector pumps electric driven, or mechanical driven? If electrical, might it be another issue? We are trying to avoid paying New Holland except as a last resort, because there stuff seems to be made of platinum with solid gold innards, and I'm sure the labor wouldn't be cheap either. 

Any help putting us in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. 

Thanks,
Rooster


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## want2beyounger (Jan 23, 2016)

Im having the same problem with my tc40d. The problem is the electrical feed to the fuel solenoid on the injector pump. Sometimes it will start, sometimes it wont. I traced the feed wire back to a bank of relays. I replaced the relay that supplies power the the solenoid and voila, it worked, that is until the next time. I have to find out where the power comes from to fire the relay. Does anyone out there have a wiring diagram they could post so i can trace things out. And where is the fuse panel located. I've looked and looked, and I will look some more. I just dont want to remove covers that I dont have to. 

To make the tractor run, I ran a wire directly from the battery pos. terminal to the fuel solenoid on the injector pump. Then to shut it down, I have to remove the wire. I dont know if a connection at the fuse block is loose or maybe an intermittent feed from the ignition switch might be the problem. I need a wiring diagram before I can do anything.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I think the fuse panel, along with most relays, and assorted electrical devises on that tractor are accessed by removing the right side panel under the instrument cluster. Before getting too carried away in there, you might flip the seat up and check for a seat switch at the very back of the support bracket. Many TC series have a switch there that ties into the operator aggravation circuit. This circuit can cut power to the injection pump when the seat switch opens while pto is on, and/or trans(probably shuttle) is not in neutral, and sometimes park brake is not applied. This switch and it's associated wiring can cause the problem you describe.


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## want2beyounger (Jan 23, 2016)

Fedup said:


> . Before getting too carried away in there, you might flip the seat up and check for a seat switch at the very back of the support bracket. Many TC series have a switch there that ties into the operator aggravation circuit. This circuit can cut power to the injection pump when the seat switch opens ........... this switch and it's associated wiring can cause the problem you describe.


Fed UP, I think you nailed it. I bought this tractor used 4 years ago. The previous owner had by passed this switch with a jumper wire. I checked the jumper and its connections and they looked very dirty and oxidized. I pulled out the jumper and cleaned the terminals in the connector. I then made a new jumper wire with new connectors. I applied some oxy guard and put it back together. The tractor fired right up when it normally would not have. Time after time it worked. 

This problem started this past summer and gradually got worse and worse, to the point that I had to start looking for the cause. As far as I can tell right now, Problem solved.:thumbsup:

I still can't find the fuse panel. Nothing behind the lower right panel under the instrument cluster. There are 2 banks of relays behind the left panel. Thanks for your help, I will up date after a couple days to confirm everything A OK.


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