# So I figured out why my Deere's chewing up the flywheel....please help



## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

Tore into the Deere today. Yanked the motor and starter. One of the ears that the starter mounts to is cracked. So the starter is moving around in this ear causing a misalignment with the flywheel.

Take a look

<img src=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/5691/dscf1721medium1yx.jpg>

Can I just have that part welded back up? What is the block made of, aluminum? Steel? Should I have it tig welded? I sure hope the block isnt trashed just because of this.

Engine on the bench

<img src=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/6531/dscf1722medium0vd.jpg>

Carcass 

<img src=http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/8417/dscf1724medium9yt.jpg>


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## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

That is an aluminum cast housing if I'm not mistaken and it can be repaired but the underlying cause of that breaking is in my opinion what I first stated on your initial thread and until that is fixed this will continue to occur!!!!

IOW's time for a new engine, not all that expensive , providing you want to keep the little tractor!!


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## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

I would go for the weld (Aluminum) first. It will probably be alright with a good weld, re-thread with bottom tap, or heli-coil. I have seen much worse.

I agree with Dean. You may fix the obvious problem by welding, but the undue stress creating that much pressure on the bosses has to be identified or it will happen again.

Good luck, Mark


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## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

How would I go about checking the crank bearing? The flywheel seems to be tight and it doesnt wobble as far as the naked eye can see.

What's next? Complete teardown?

I don't want to buy a new engine. This tractor was given to me, and to be honest, my yard is way to small to even need anything more than a push mower, but I love anything with a motor and wheels, so I want to get this running for the least amount of money.


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## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

"What's next? Complete teardown?"

Yes!! Now in reading your post I sense that this is more problemmatic then you care to tackle! May I suggest an E-bay listing and turn the cash into something that you can truly enjoy!!

I will help you with the intricacies of listing on E-bay should you need it!!


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

In my opinion, that crack appears to have been caused by #1 whomever installed the starter may have dropped the starter with just that one bolt in the hole partially tightened, which may have caused the crack or #2 they over tightened the starter bolts and possibly caused the crack. 

I agree with Mark's assessment. You have nothing to loose by having the crack repaired by having it welded. As mentioned, the hole can be re-drilled and tapped. I think I would try threading a bolt in that whole completely to the bottom of the threads before attempting the weld repair as that would help support the aluminum around the crack and threaded hole. 

There still may be an underlying problem that may cause the crack to occur again but I think I would try the repair first. A new engine would be prohibitively expensive.


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## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

I think I'll have it welded and try again. Nothing to loose right?

Second question. Is my flywheel toast? Or can I clean up the teeth and reuse it? I think I can. I hope. Starter looks fine, no chipping on the teeth. Here's a pic


<img src=http://img110.imageshack.us/img110/5323/dscf1728medium9ay.jpg>


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

DT, the engine for the 110 is no longer available. You can however buy the short block which would have about 80% of the engine components. Depending upon the serial # of your tractor, the short block costs $867.09 for part # AM35993 to $903.46 for part # AM32332. Hardly worth the huge cost outlay as you can expect to spend MUCH more than that to completely reassemble the short block to a whole engine. I think I would try the welding repair first.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I think I would try to the clean up the flywheel gears as best I could and drive on. I think it will work if you can get the starter mount repaired and align the starter properly.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

EXCELLENT and OUTSTANDING pictures by the way Adam! :thumbsup: :worthy:


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## chrpmaster (May 5, 2004)

I agree with Chief on trying the welding repair and see how it works. I originally was thinking that maybe the starter worked its way loose sometime in the past and you're just finding out about it now. Starters have an amazing amount of torque and if the bolts were alittle loose I could see how it could cause a crack like that over time.

Dean is right about rebuilding or replacing the engine if you want a long term fix. plus with over 1000 hours on the motor no telling how long it will last. Its probably near the end of its designed life.

Dean is also correct about selling it on Ebay. those 318's sell pretty well cause of the hydraulics and have a good rep as tough tractors.

Good luck and keep us informed on how this goes.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Disregard my part #'s and prices above. For some reason I was thinking you had a 110 and then I realized that you have the 318. Sorry for the mistaken info. 

The Onan engine and the short block are no longer avialable from Deere. Even if they were, you could figure at least double the prices quoted above.


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## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

YES! IN my opinion your flywheel is toast and so is the lower crank bearing!! Sorry!


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Hope you get somewhere with the welding work....agree you have great pics... thanks for sharing!

keep us posted.


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## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

I took the motor to the welder and had it welded up. We'll have to wait and see how it works.

I have to repaint all the panels before I can put the motor back in and fire it up.

I'm working on removing all the rust and sanding things down right now.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

We'll be keepin' our fingers crossed and wishing you the best of luck with it as well as looking forward to pictures of the final assembly. I think you are on the right track.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Keep those pics coming!
best of luck


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## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

Got the block welded up. I'mm rather dissapointed with the repair done. It looks terrible. I was hoping for a better looking weld. Oh well, I guess we'll just have to see how it holds up.

<img src=http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/4221/dscf1807medium8hh.jpg>

Now I have to put the motor back in so that I can reclaim my workbench.

I've got most of the panels off and ready to be painted. I'm going to take the deck to the sandblaster to have it stripped, it's just too much work to do by hand.


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## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

Dont know why that pic isnt working, so here it is again

<img src=http://img429.imageshack.us/img429/8280/dscf1807medium2io.jpg>


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## chrpmaster (May 5, 2004)

Adam 

I see what you mean about the messy weld but it does look like he got good penetration. I know lots of us are interested to find out if this holds .


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

It may not be the prettiest weld but all you can do is try it out and see how it works. Hopefully this will fix the problem and you will have a real nice grass mowing machine.


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## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

Difficult to tell w/o an x-ray but I do see from your photo 4 weak spots on the surface! They may mean somthing or they may not at this point!!

Your engine is not noted for high compression and hopefully it will outlast all the rest!! If you care to post the charge for that Snot job I'd be interested in and possibly others what the cost was in round figures of course!!

A hopefull note for you is the unattractive look might simply be caused by a cold differential temperature at the surface and the internal part is solid!!

I will tell you that we lacked the confidence in the weld to grind and polish it to find OUT!!

I stand by my previous posts on this thread!!
Dean


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## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

$40 for the weld job.


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## chrpmaster (May 5, 2004)

Adam

At this point I would just put it back together and give it a go. I don't know if you can see the weld without taking the starter off but I would try starting it a couple times and then check your weld. If it is holding up and your engine isn't making the weird noise I would run it til it dies. The only time you are getting much stress on the weld is when the starter is engaged and the same is true of the fly wheel teeth. It could work for many years. If it doesn't work your only out some time and $40 for welding. Seems well worth the investment versus trying to find a replacement engine for this old of a tractor.

Keep us posted how it works out.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Adam, 

How is the reassembly coming along? We are all anxious to hear how the repair worked and if you are now cutting grass PROUDLY on your reworked machine?  :tractorsm


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## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

Hmm...well...I started a new job, and got 2 puppies, so the tractor took a backseat to everything else. It's all painted green and ready to go back together. I've been meaning to jump back on it and get it running. It's just kind of overwelming, I diddnt bag and label any of the bolts, so I just have a big pile of nuts and bolts. 

Maybe next week on my days off I'll start back on it.

Oh and now the hydro fluid cooler seems to be leaking. That has me worried.

I still need to get new spark plugs, oil filter/oil, air filter, sandblast the deck, new belts, tubes for the tires, and new headlight and tail light bulbs. And then paint all the yellow stuff yellow.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Sounds like you still have a bit of work ahead of you. Hang in there and take your time with it and I am sure you will have her back together in no time. :thumbsup:


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Can you give us an update on your repair Adam? I am thinking you are having too much fun cutting grass with it.


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## Adam F (Feb 29, 2004)

I wish I were cutting grass with it!

I had to sell it due to space and time. My wife is pregnant and I Started a new job, so there was no time, space, or money for the mower.


I have since bought a little 8hp 30" cut Ariens rear engine rider and am mowing with that.


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