# John Deere 2010 3-Point Hitch Issues



## jnettrecker

I have two issues with my 1964 John Deere 2010 and would appreciate any help I can get. Just for a point of reference, the hydraulic fluid is NEW and filled to the proper level, filter was just changed as well. The front end loader works relatively fast. It does have a small hydraulic fluid leak from the clutch linkage housing. 
BOTH problems below were existing when I purchased the tractor.

1. The 3 point hitch will not raise or lower. The cable that runs up to the console was removed from the little control lever before I got it. I have tried the control lever (on right side of seat) in both directions with the setting lever (left side of seat) in L, LD, and D settings with no results. One time and one time only, the hitch randomly raised. I moved the control lever, it went back down and hasn't raised since. Bizarre!

2. The power steering is super slow sitting still. It does turn much better when I'm moving, even with the extra weight of the loader but when you are not moving, it is an act of congress to turn the wheels. Ironically and if I go super slow it will turn the wheels effortlessly. It is almost as if the pump is clogged or something but I don't know where to start looking. 

If you are interested in buying the tractor, hit me up........lol


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## Jbreezy10

The point hitch probaly needs new hydraulic valves 

P.s.- get a red tractor lol


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## clive

Have you checked the filter bypass valve. If the roll pin breaks you get the same fault


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## wacoplowboy

I own a 2010 with a JD 48 loader. There is a metal transmission/hydralic filter under the right hand foot board when you are sitting on the tractor. It is an odd shape and has 3 bolts that hold it closed. This one filter runs the power steering, 3 point and aux hydralics. Clean it and refill the transmission with 8 gallons of SAE 10w 30 motor oil of a good brand. Mine has to be serviced about every 90 days.


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## wacoplowboy

I own a 2010 with a JD 48 loader. There is a metal transmission/hydralic filter under the right hand foot board when you are sitting on the tractor. It is an odd shape and has 3 bolts that hold it closed. This one filter runs the power steering, 3 point and aux hydralics. Clean it and refill the transmission with 8 gallons of SAE 10w 30 motor oil of a good brand. Mine has to be serviced about every 90 days.


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## rockwood84

don't know if you got her going but on the clutch pedal side there is a lever that knocks the pump out to crank easier in cold weather it could be halfway. pull up on it or push down on it and see if hydraulic pressure comes back.


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## wacoplowboy

I can help you. 
The hydralics work in 3 sections, power steering, three point hitch and a remote connection in back for your loader. Sitting in the seat, on the left side is a small petal that disconnects the hydralic pump for easier winter starts. On the right, below the foot board is a metal transmisson filter held by three bolts. When it clogs you get no oil in the system. There is a drain plug under the tractor in line with the filter. The tractor takes 18 quarts of 10w30 motoroil and has to be drained to service the filter. On the right in front of the floor board are 3 steel lines. Top is for left turn, next is right turn, and bottom is a return line. now lets talk repairs.
There is a hydralic line from the hydralic pump located on the bottom front of the transmission housing. Siince you have a leak it has to be the line, there is nothing else to leak. This line runs up to a bypass valve on the left side of the tractor under the steering wheel. On the right side under the steering wheel is the remote control valve. This valve controlls everything and you bypass return is plugged closed. Take the remote control valve out and take it appart and clean it and the gally holes. Everything. They are relatively simple to work on the two valves giving you problems are on the back side and on the bottom of the valve. They are together, the size of a quarter and have a 3/8ths threaded hole in the center. Use a 3/8ths bolt to press down and remove the spring clips. Inside is a spring, ball, and stuck in the valve will be a small round valve that looks like the valve core of an intertube. Take out the parts and keep them seperate. A full picture is available at john deere.com, parts, model 2010, pages 138 to 151. I use carburetor cleaner to clean these parts and it works great. Its about a 2 hour job and you don't need to sell the tractor but I might buy it if the price is right.


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## gdtractor

*2010 JD .... Levers don't seem to work ... and where are they?*

Hi . 
This looked like a good place to post this . 

I don't have a manual ... I am pursuing that . I know I need one BAD .
Just got this tractor 4 days ago [2010 JD 1964 gas] .. it has set outside for a year or two ... got it running good .. but still needs carb work . probably mostly dirty . 

Main problem .. 3 pt will not work ..... and when I try the lever on the left of the driver seat - sounds like something is grinding .. 

The levers on the dash either don't do anything or WON'T move .. 
here is a video explaining it a little better . 
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXNRkt-y8BA[/ame]

Thanks a lot .. 

Gary my email is [email protected] just in case I am not notified if someone answer this post .. thx GED


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