# Please Help me Build a Front End Loader



## Wishbonez51

Hello gang,

Ok I have the bug to build my very own front end loader. I have been on a couple of sites and see some really good builds. I have also been on Youtube and found a dad and his son completely deck out a garden tractor I think just like mine I will get the link to the video so maybe somebody could direct me to that kit to build or a set of plans.

My tractor; 1992-94 Craftsman Special Edition Indy 500 with an Onan 20hp twin.

In the youtube video they definately installed a hydrolic system which would work off the pully system and thats exactly what I would like to do.

So I could use some help into how and where to purchase and install the hydrolic system using my existing system.

Things needed to solve.

Hydrolic rams sizes for the FEL
Hydrolic manifold 
Hydrolic pump
how the system kicks into neutral when not using levers
How to install pump

thanks for all the help and there will be plenty of pictures and hopefully instructions into how we were able to design, build and impliment my new FEL. 

THANKS WISHBONE


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## BelarusBulldog

Wishbonez51 said:


> Hello gang,
> 
> Ok I have the bug to build my very own front end loader. I have been on a couple of sites and see some really good builds. I have also been on Youtube and found a dad and his son completely deck out a garden tractor I think just like mine I will get the link to the video so maybe somebody could direct me to that kit to build or a set of plans.
> 
> My tractor; 1992-94 Craftsman Special Edition Indy 500 with an Onan 20hp twin.
> 
> In the youtube video they definately installed a hydrolic system which would work off the pully system and thats exactly what I would like to do.
> 
> So I could use some help into how and where to purchase and install the hydrolic system using my existing system.
> 
> Things needed to solve.
> 
> Hydrolic rams sizes for the FEL
> Hydrolic manifold
> Hydrolic pump
> how the system kicks into neutral when not using levers
> How to install pump
> 
> thanks for all the help and there will be plenty of pictures and hopefully instructions into how we were able to design, build and impliment my new FEL.
> 
> THANKS WISHBONE


1/The size of your hydraulic cylinders will be determined by the distance you need to move the arms and the force required to do so. 2/Hydraulic manifold, not sure where this is used? 3/Hydraulic pump, needs to be the correct GPM at your rated speed. 4/Your "Neutral" as you call it, is simply a bypass valve built into the lever valves. When in the neutral position, the fluid simply flows back into the system. 5/How to install pump. To answer this you're going to have to supply more information and some pictures of your setup. Bye


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## Marcintosh

Thinking about this project, wouldn't it just be easier to use linear actuators instead of hydraulic's?


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## IH farm boy

northern hydralics has a web site with some , hydralics . when buying hydralics make shure you get open center valves . they will have your neutral position . they make closed center stuff as well and it will raise hell, if your not set up for it . use a gear pump for your hydralics there cheaper and more compact and take more punishment and have lots of flow. something around 5 to 8 gallons a minute should work pretty well if your just running the loader . you dont want to get real carried away with flow . cause you can run into cooling problems just for the fact that its hard to get a large storage tank on a garden tractor . we build trucks at work that have plows and sanders and other stuff , on 15 to 30 gallons a minute . electric actuators would work but are painfully slow , and tear up a charging system on a garded tractor if it will handle it at all .
.


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## IH farm boy

my dads skid loader has dual three inch cylinders on the bucket and boom i wouldnt go much bigger than that deffinetly not smaller . we can lift about 6 to 700 lbs easily with a 22 hp onan . when you look at pumps they rate them at varying rpms try to find them as close to 3600 rpm as possible but since your using a pulley system yopu can alter the operating rpm


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## farmertim

It is my undertsnding that normally the hydraulic cylinders are sized by cylinder diameter, rod diameter and overall extended length.
so something like 3" x 1 1/2" x 30" 
I am open to correction on this
Cheers


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## Hoodoo Valley

Need to factor in how much weight that front axle will handle too.


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## Boudreaux4

*Keep in mind these things*



Wishbonez51 said:


> Hello gang,
> 
> Ok I have the bug to build my very own front end loader.


WishBone, keep in mind your building a loader on a Garden Tractor,
It doesn't weigh alot thus it won't lift alot. With that being said the "Bore" of your cylinders needs to be about 2" this will give the shaft 1".
Now the most important part by far other than GPM vs RPMs is the distance where your lift rams are in relation to the pivot of your loader arms.
Lower they are more power they will have "more perpendicular to the loader arms I should say" BUT them being mounted closer to the pivot will give you higher lift.
My suggestion would be SMASH THE BUG build the loader first, then with a engine hoist etc move the loader up and down to determine mounting points.
Parker pumps are great gear driven pumps yes as said below a single gear pump 6-10 GPM is about what you need. Less the better GPM will ultimately determine how fast your loader operates. Too many GPM will make u scrap the whole idea.
And as said by others here heating probs resivor size problems etc.
Pump PSI never changes, GPM determines how fast the pump can build that pressure up in your cylinders. Worst case scenario with a pump with too little GPM is the loader will bore you to death and be very slow, but just as powerful. Northern tool sells "joystick" type valve with spring detent return to nuetral w/ nuetral bypass
All valves, cylinders, etc need to have about the same GPms.
If your familiar with PSI and CFM of air compressors and air tools? It's the same beast!! Just imagine you using Hydro oil instead of air
Hope this helps!!!!


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## bosshogg

I can gaurantee a tractor company has a team of engineers working for a year to determine what weight a tractor can safely lift and then designing the loader frame and ultimately the hydraulic system to make it work. Unless you are skilled beyond imagination at welding and steel design...I would think of another project...sorry for the buzz kill.


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## randym99

Hi Wishbone.Go check out Mcmaster Carr.They have alot of info in their catalogue about this kind of stuff.Also look up the "Burden Surplus center"They have tons of new,used,and surplus hyd gadgets to make things from.Don't over build it(although most of us do!) Its a Garden tractor,not a bull dozer.Use cheap stuff to mock it up.Cardboard tubes,cardboard,duct tape,sticks.It sounds funny but I have saved alot by thinking with my hands this way. I think there is even a site on line somewhere that deals with just homemade loaders and backhoes.Have fun,learn lots,and Stay safe.


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## JD265

Hi,
I am building a loader on a John deere 265 and I am abot 1/2 way done.I have some plans I found on the inet that gave me my basic design and they are great.If your interested let me know.I have been through what you are going through.


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## PeteNM

This sounds real interesting. Do you have any pictures of the frame and bucket?


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## JD265

Here is what I have so far.Wishbonez51 if you have questions ask and I will try and help,size of the cylinders is as explained above.


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## PeteNM

That's certainly a dandy start and some good looking work. Thanks so much for the pics.


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## Ed Williams

P F Engineering has complete sets of plans for backhoes and fell at fairly reasonable pricing. They give a complete materials list and detailed fabrication and assembly instructions. Good luck. Many hours will be required.


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## Hoodoo Valley

I wonder if he ever got it up and running? My biggest fear on something like that would be stressing out the front axle and components such as the bearings and pivot. Those older John Deere lawn tractors are very well built though.


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