# Garage Upstairs flooring



## guest

i was planning to get some plywood 4*8ft 
3/4" thick sheets for the floor above my garage
see pic: This boards would be nailed into the above ceiling


<img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=37259>

Plywood cost 35$/sheet at my home depot - kind of pricey.. i was just gonna do 3-4 sheets for now... 


*But For Free: * 
I have access to a bunch of (free) 1 foot wide * 8 feet long 3/4" thick plywood boards 



I was thinking about using the 1*8 boards on the upstairs floor, but i was wondering about stength of the boards? 

The way the floor supports run, i thought the 1 ft boards would not be as strong as a 4 ft wide board.. i was thinking about the 16" support boards below....

do you think the one foot wide boards are ok? 

do you think they would be ok for the floor or would i only want to use them for shelving.... and use 4 ft wide floor boards not the 1 ft wide boards..


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## jbetts13

alot of nailing to do


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## jodyand

I would say put a few of them down and walk on them and see how it feels. If it feels OK i don't see a problem with it.


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## memmurphy

I'd use one or two 4' x 8' at the stairs where the most foot traffic would be and the 1' x 8' out where things will be setting. Once nailed in I doubt you will feel much difference and both should stop the side to side swing of the trusses. Just use plenty of nails to help prevent warping with weight over time and some joints lifting up.

Mark


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## Spike

I'm fairly certain the one foot boards would do it. I would suggest attaching a strip of wood underneath the 1X8s, in between the joists.

I helped a friend build a playhouse. The decking was 6" wide and 5/8" thick. When I walked on it, I was certain I was going through. Once we attached a strip of wood underneath, tying them together, it firmed up real nice. Took my 230 pound frame with no problems.


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## Argee

Spikes right....the reason why flooring is T&G is so it will be sturdy when you walk between the joists or in your case the 24" OC bottom chord.....If your going to use this attic space extensively, bite the bullet now and do it right...


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## guest

spike & randy, what do you mean.. a little strip of wood going across the 1 * 8's like strapping wood? what size 2" by 1/4 or 1/2 inch??

BTW: the 1*8 boards are not tongue and groove.. they are leftover boards from 4*8 sheets of plywood that were cut to 3*8 shelves...


I guess i could put the 1*8s down and then from below put the strapping between the 1*8s what is the reson, is it so sort of 'connect ' the 1*8s together? how many would you use for each 8 foot board? 

and just heavy duty staple or tack them in? 


if i went with 4*8 sheets 

i planned to use 3/4 could i get away with 1/2 inch? i was thinking about all the added weight of the 3/4 plywood - is that not an issue?


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## tisenberg

If you are stacking boxes and stuff, you don't need a wall to wall floor. I did the same in one section of my attic of the garage. I use scrap 2 X 4's and scrap 1 X 4's. The thought is that you are going to stack some stuff there and not be using it for regular foot traffic.

I would playwood a big section at the top of the access area. Maybe put another small section of plywood down, but the rest I would leave it alone. Then when needed, you can just put 1 X 4's (or 8s) down every six to ten inches. You just need enough of a bridge between the joist to hold boxes and stuff.


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## jodyand

Hey tisenberg i know this isnt the right thread for this but have you put your lattice up yet.:winky: :lmao:


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## guest

hy jody, i know this isnt the right thread either.. but where are those hubs?


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## jodyand

I need to call him today i talked to him friday and he said they hadnt come in yet. I think he forgot to order them or he sold them to somebody else.


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## Spike

> _Originally posted by simple_john _
> *spike & randy, what do you mean.. a little strip of wood going across the 1 * 8's like strapping wood? what size 2" by 1/4 or 1/2 inch?? *


Lets say you put four 1'X8's together on the floor so it looks like a 4'X8'. Put some 1"X2" strapping across them and secure. I would place the strapping where they would line up in between the joists.

I don't think staples would do it. Some small wood screws would be the best.

By doing this, you could step in the middle of one of the 1'X8's, and the other three would help take your weight.

Understand?


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## guest

got it...


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## Spike

Is your dog a Boxer? I've been thinking of getting one. My lab is getting up in the years.


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## Stewart

I would have to say I would save up and put down the 3/4" tongue and groove. It is more expensive but in the end you will never have a worry, Like I said before, I would put down liquid nail as I put each sheet down and remember to stagger the joints. I hope that makes sense. I was thinking screws might be a nice touch instead of nails, it might reduce any creaking and hold better. We used to use galvanized 8d nails. we used to nail the sheets about every 8" the full width of the sheet. The seams are tough sometimes but a good straight cut is important on the half sheets. I hope this helped and didn't confuse you!!!


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## guest

no simple johns is a boxer.. shes the best dog ive ever had... (we all say that though, right?)


She is going on 10 years old and still acts like a puppy.. ive had 2 other dogs.. both bulldogs.. both died at 4 years old... 

My boxer; cassius or cass runs like mad and is great with kids.. 

She is a horrible watch dog and would probably go home with any intruder.. but a great great dog.. 
one drawback.. she jumps on you when she sees you.. they all seem to do that.. very excited and happy to see people.. and she absolutly hates other dogs.. If she sees one, she is at it trying to kill it.. no matter how big or small.. no idea why, shes been like that since she was a pup...

<img src=http://www.apartofme.com/images/MVC-341X.JPG>


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## Spike

Don't know why my email was addressed to Jody. I addressed it to Moderator/Mega-Whore-Slut-Poster...and when I looked at it later, it said Jody. Wonder what that means.

I've amended my last post.

Awesome dog. Though she might not be a good watch dog, she certainly looks like one. That does a lot!


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## Spike

> _Originally posted by Stewart _
> *I would have to say I would save up and put down the 3/4" tongue and groove. It is more expensive but in the end you will never have a worry, Like I said before, I would put down liquid nail as I put each sheet down and remember to stagger the joints. I hope that makes sense. I was thinking screws might be a nice touch instead of nails, it might reduce any creaking and hold better. We used to use galvanized 8d nails. we used to nail the sheets about every 8" the full width of the sheet. The seams are tough sometimes but a good straight cut is important on the half sheets. I hope this helped and didn't confuse you!!!
> *


I agree. This is the route I would take...if I had the funds.


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## guest

spike one more thing.. that dog is so gentle around little kids its amazing.. ive got a young nephew and other young kids (under a year) the dog quivers when she gets near them.. she is so gentle its weird to see, but she quivers and tries to get a close sniff or lick them a little.. but wont jump on or try to climb up onto them or anything at all... 

the 2-3 year olds poke at her and pull her ears/ drag her by her collar ect and she loves it..

the bigger kids (4 - whatever) climb all over her and go for rides etc.. and she digs that too.. great dog with kids...


also for the 1st 4 years of the dogs life i lived in the city where she was kept in a 10*12 room all day while i worked.. no problem being in a smaller area with no yard at all.. of course now she loves it out in the country...


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## Argee

> _Originally posted by simple_john _
> *
> i planned to use 3/4 could i get away with 1/2 inch? i was thinking about all the added weight of the 3/4 plywood - is that not an issue? *



Now that we have this thread back on track 

John, John, John, John, John.....you just spent the money to put up a high _quality_ building and now you want to breech that integrity by installing inferior materials to save a few bucks.

For flooring, 3/4" is the minimum you should use. Your receiving joists are 24" OC giving you 22 1/2" between each one. The normal floor joist is 16" OC or 14 1/2" between each one. You do the math, which one is going to give more deflection in the flooring material?

If you have a tremendous amount of these 1 x 12 x 8' pieces of plywood then you might consider running them diagonal (45* angle to the joist), but im still not sure with it being plywood that that would gain anything.

Again, save up the money, buy 3/4" tongue and groove plywood and do it right.


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## Spike

> _Originally posted by simple_john _
> *spike one more thing.. that dog is so gentle around little kids its amazing.. ive got a young nephew and other young kids (under a year) the dog quivers when she gets near them.. she is so gentle its weird to see, but she quivers and tries to get a close sniff or lick them a little.. but wont jump on or try to climb up onto them or anything at all...
> 
> the 2-3 year olds poke at her and pull her ears/ drag her by her collar ect and she loves it..
> 
> the bigger kids (4 - whatever) climb all over her and go for rides etc.. and she digs that too.. great dog with kids...
> 
> 
> also for the 1st 4 years of the dogs life i lived in the city where she was kept in a 10*12 room all day while i worked.. no problem being in a smaller area with no yard at all.. of course now she loves it out in the country... *


Getting the thread back off track...

I was planning on getting a pup next spring, but now you are getting me pretty excited about it. If I dare mention something to the better half, we will have a Boxer with a couple/few months.


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## guest

*white boxer*

ever see a white boxer? there was one in my dogs litter.. a lot of the breeders actually put the white ones down.. not recognized by the akc.. its disgusting.. the one from my dogs litter could not be registered and the lady gave it to her neighbor.. wicked cute.. all white except for the tip of its ear.. nothing at all wrong with them.. they are not an 'accepted' color with the akc and the upity breeders dont like to admit their dogs throw white boxers..

i tried to breed my dog but her grandfather was white.. so none of the 'champion' breeders would talk to me.. gotta love dog people..


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## Spike

Funny you should mention that. I was just searching the web and I found a breeder that states all their pups are AKC registered. I looked to see when they might have some available, and the just had a liter. ALL white.

I thought I read that they would be recongized.

Anyway, I agree. Very cute and there shouldn't be anything wrong with them. They were asking $500.


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## guest

maybe they are accepting the 'cracker' (quoting chris rock) dogs now...
thats what i paid 10 years ago... 

you know the usual.. dont go to a store to buy the dogs.. get from a decent breeder.. get a good look at the pedigree, check the father & mother (dogs) for any obvious health problems.. boxers are prone to cancer

if the breeder is big on showing, they will want to sell you their ass ugly dogs first so they can keep the good looking ones for themselves

my dog eats like a pig and still looks lean and mean.. wish i could say the saame about her 'daddy'

i subscribe to a boxer magazine.. lots of breeder listings. 
also a great organization second chance boxers (they have a web site) they rescue boxers and are always looking for an adopter.. ive seen a few dogs from there that are nice...


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## Spike

I'm getting a local list of breeders. Thanks for the advice. As with anything I do, I will do lots of research and reference checks. Thanks again and I will let you know how it's going.


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## tisenberg

1) Did you notice... someone stole your dogs tail.

2) Agree with Argee, spending another few hundred bucks is worth it. You will kick yourself later.


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## guest

> _Originally posted by Argee _
> *John, John, John, John, John.....you just spent the money to put up a high quality building and now you want to breech that integrity by installing inferior materials to save a few bucks.
> 
> For flooring, 3/4" is the minimum you should use. Your receiving joists are 24" OC giving you 22 1/2" between each one. The normal floor joist is 16" OC or 14 1/2" between each one. You do the math, which one is going to give more deflection in the flooring material?
> 
> 
> Again, save up the money, buy 3/4" tongue and groove plywood and do it right. *



Jeez.. i feel like ive been yelled at by my mamo.....:dazed: 


ok to clarify.. the 1 ft boards were offered to me by my brother.. i can always use them for shelving and be happy.. 

As for 1/2" vs 3/4" my other brother mentioned that there would be a lot of weight with the 3/4 plywood.. and thought 1/2 inch would be better.. 

so technically you should yell at them guys not me.. (now i sound like im talking to my mamo)


ill look into the tongue and groove stuff but if its a lot more money.. i cant really see justifying it.. im not gonna be hanging out up there.. probably just using it to store my halloween & Xmass stuff up there.. 

ill go with the regular plywood unless the T&G is aboutthe same $$$. 

thanks all for the 'input' and advise..


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## Spike

Wouldn't a waffer(spelling?) type board work? I looks like it is made of chips of wood.


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## guest

too late.. argee shamed me into it.. i ordered 4 sheets of 3/4 plywood 3 tongue and grooved UL TG and one regular to do the top of the stars landing sort of area... local lumber yard is about 1-2$ more than home depot but they deliver so its very convenient..


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## bontai Joe

You could have used your router and T&Ged the 12" wide plywood boards and glued them back together Would have cost you one router bit and a bottle of glue. Don't they offer 5/8" T&G where you are at? That is what typically gets used in my area.

I've had one pure bred dog in my life and he was a "Free to a good home" Irish setter that loved me more than life itself. Absolute best dog I ever had and ever will have. When I got him he was living on the end of 3 feet of chain eyebolted to the owner's house. I taught him how to swim, how to hunt (he wasn't much good at it, but we both had fun) and occassionally share a beer with him. He has been gone over 20 years and it still brings a tear to my eye to remember his last day on earth. All my other dogs were mixed mutts of varying sizes and intellegence and I loved them all, but that Irish setter will always be special.


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## guest

good point about the T&G of the 1 ft boards.... i got the 1st 3 but at 37$ per board it will be pricey.. i may get the T&G bit and router the 1 ft boards.. wouldn't it be 2 bits? one for the inney and one for the outey? 


sad to hear about your dog joe, i always thought that my 'current dog' would be my favorite.. meaning whatever dog i would have at the time.. i see by your story that is not always the case... 

too bad they dont live longer.. ive got no kids and to be honest my dog is a big huge part of my life... 


Thanks for all the info guys..
sj


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## Argee

> _Originally posted by simple_john _
> *Jeez.. i feel like ive been yelled at by my mamo.....:dazed:
> 
> 
> ok to clarify.. the 1 ft boards were offered to me by my brother.. i can always use them for shelving and be happy..
> 
> As for 1/2" vs 3/4" my other brother mentioned that there would be a lot of weight with the 3/4 plywood.. and thought 1/2 inch would be better..
> 
> so technically you should yell at them guys not me.. (now i sound like im talking to my mamo)
> 
> 
> ill look into the tongue and groove stuff but if its a lot more money.. i cant really see justifying it.. im not gonna be hanging out up there.. probably just using it to store my halloween & Xmass stuff up there..
> 
> ill go with the regular plywood unless the T&G is aboutthe same $$$.
> 
> thanks all for the 'input' and advise.. *




It's not my intention to make you feel bad.....I just don't want you doing something that I know you'll regret later.


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## guest

> *Jeez.. i feel like ive been yelled at by my mamo.....:dazed: *


thanks i was just messing with ya buddy.. thats why i ask questions.. to get suggestions...


sj


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## Argee

> _Originally posted by simple_john _
> *thanks i was just messing with ya buddy.. thats why i ask questions.. to get suggestions...
> 
> 
> sj *


Whew....that's a relief...I didn't want to come across as the harping old fogey of the forum


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## bontai Joe

If you only have 3 of the 12" wide plywood boards, it is not worth getting the router bit. I thought you had a big stack of them (20 to 50) leftover from the roof or something like that. enough to do most of the floor, would have made it worth while.


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## guest

no old fogey argee.. helpful

joe i do, i am looking at bits on line now... any suggestions on a good place to get them? they seem to range from 40-100$ 

I like these they have a v panel... This is sort of neat for other wood projects...

<img src=http://www.routerbits.com/3374.gif>

or are these flat ones better?

<img src=http://www.routerbits.com/3373.gif>

If im gonna spend the money id like to be able to use them for other uses...

regarding more wood.. provided a tongue and groove of the plywood was strong enough and the wood (ive never seen it yet) is in good condition and not warped...

i could use 36 more of the 1 ft boards saving me from buying 9 sheets of plywood at 37$ a board (333$) that would justify a 50$ bit... and some glue annd liquid nails...

ive never seen the wood so before i go buying router bits i want to ensure its not warped and in good condition.. 

i wanted to get a few boards up for some quick storage...


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## slipshod

*SJ*

There is another method that is strong, makes a clean job,and will utilize your one foot wide boards. A bisquit joiner, it cuts a slot in the edges of the boards and you use birch bisquits glued in the slots. If you take your time and the edges are sawed even on the plywood, when you glue them up they will be super strong. After all the attic area is going to be storage, and 3/4 will hold anything you are putting up there. Plus I like the free part, a good bisquit joiner will cost you no more then 4 sheets of plywood and you will have a very handy tool when you are done.


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## guest

You know i was thinknig of that... 

ive got a joiner so no cost at all... but i did not know if when the blades cut into the plywood stuff if it would be secure, 
meaning; when you biscuit join a wood board, it cuts a neat little groove.. if the cut went into plywood i did not know if the groove would be strong or if it hit a soft layer of the plywood if it would work?


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## bontai Joe

The one drawback is that you won't have 48" wide sheets when done glueing them up, more like 47" x 96", so you'll have to orient them so as to have your edges stay on the joists. As to where to get the bits? I'd probably go to Sears, their stuff is pretty good and it is convenient, or to the local hardware or lumber store. It's a common bit that is used a lot and most good hardware stores will have it.


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## aegt5000

SJ….

The garage is magnificent.
Whatever you decide to use for you top storage floor,
it will be much stronger if you screw and glue it to the floor joists.
The glue allows the flooring and the joists to combine and create a 
series of “T” beams that become much stronger than their individual
components. If you do a few APA searches you will see the dramatic
difference in strength gluing will create.


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## Argee

> _Originally posted by bontai Joe _
> *The one drawback is that you won't have 48" wide sheets when done glueing them up, more like 47" x 96", so you'll have to orient them so as to have your edges stay on the joists. As to where to get the bits? I'd probably go to Sears, their stuff is pretty good and it is convenient, or to the local hardware or lumber store. It's a common bit that is used a lot and most good hardware stores will have it. *


That shouldn't apply....because he should be spanning lengthways (96") not width.


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## Argee

> _Originally posted by Spike _
> *I really don't think the tongue and groove is critical for this application. IMO *


For any flooring application T&G is critical...anywhere your going to be walking the tongue and groove support two seperate pieces between the spans via the t&g.


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## Chris

> _Originally posted by Argee _
> *Whew....that's a relief...I didn't want to come across as the harping old fogey of the forum *


Too late for that! Is it just me or is Argee more direct since his trip to the other side? J/K, We appreciate you Argee! Now where is 
my yummy pig with my name on it?

:homereat:


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## Chris

> _Originally posted by Spike _
> *I really don't think the tongue and groove is critical for this application. IMO *


Hmmmmmm... yep it is.
Bye


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## Spike

Two responses to my post. You guys convinced me.


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## Stewart

I will add this, These projects are your and my projects we have the choices to do as we see fit. If we think it will work then by all means try it, the worse thing is if it doesn't work we have to tear it out and do it over....bad choice. I do it all the time!!!!!

Flooring in the old days wasn't plywood, they didn't have it. They used 1x4 or what ever they felt like making or had made. The only thing they did do was use T&G. It adds a lot of stability and strength. 

That being said I think SJ has came over from the dark side and we have beat him down enough, T&G for everyone!!!!!

I think it is an awesome project and will continue to be in the future. Thanks again for sharing with us SJ I hope I have been of some help and not bored you all to death trying to expalin stuff!!!

Heres to you SJ :beer: :cheers:


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## guest

stew, no problem i enjoy and appreciate all the suggestions..

I went on a shopping spree today and got wood glue (in case i biscuit join)
liquid nails - subfloor type for glueing whatever i put down, down. 

sheet rock screws 2" i was told by home depot that they would work fine for plywood


i am getting 4 plywood sheets delivered plus a 1/2 dozen 2*4s and 2*6's. the 2*4's and 6's will be for a work bench i figure for starters.. 8'* 3' should be fine.. . (agreed??) 


the free wood is in mass so if i want it.. i need to drag my trailer down about 2 hours one way.. but if the wood is good it could be a good deal.. 
otherwise if i have an extra 350$ ill buy plywood and put it 
down.. really with the 4 sheets im putting down this weekend or whenever.. that will give me enough storage to get started.. 


im not going to drive or put much in the garage till after i paint the floor.. have to wait 30 dasys... june 10th... 

but a tool bench is a must so ill do the frame for that at least...


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## Stewart

Be carefull with the sheetrock screws. They will rust if wet, and wil break if you torque them too much. You might want to look at Deckmate screws. they don't rust and won't break as easily. They use a special tip like a phillips. Keep a spare battery charged for the driver as well. I have the 18V DeWalt with a clutch it is great for driving screws, once you get the torque setting right. :truth: 

Cheers!:cheers:


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## Argee

> _Originally posted by admin _
> *Too late for that! Is it just me or is Argee more direct since his trip to the other side? J/K, We appreciate you Argee! Now where is
> my yummy pig with my name on it?
> 
> :homereat: *


Funny you mention that trip...just talked to one of the ER nurses (she lives in our little community) and the EMS guy (who also works at HD) who was on the run that day. Between the EMS an ER they paddled me a total of 12 times...they tell me that I am in the elite company of the .001 percent that survive...I was left here for a reason...just haven't figured out why yet.

As a matter of fact, I did name one of this years pigs ANDY:furious: :furious: :furious:


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## Chris

A pig with my name? As long as it is carrying some of my meat for my freezer I will be happy to share my name with it. 

Any pics of "Andy" the pig?

HAHAHA

:furious: :furious: :furious:


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## jodyand

ig: here ya go:lmao:


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## Argee

> _Originally posted by admin _
> *A pig with my name? As long as it is carrying some of my meat for my freezer I will be happy to share my name with it.
> 
> Any pics of "Andy" the pig?
> 
> HAHAHA
> 
> :furious: :furious: :furious: *


ig: ig: ig: Pics coming soonig: ig: ig:


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## guest

got the 1st row of plywood down.. 3 sheets across and one on the landing.. that will be enough for now...


wewnt with T&G plywood (which was sort of a pain) and screws and liquid nails..
it came out ok.. 
I did not notice till the 3rd sheet that i was not totally sqare on the 1st sheet, so by the time i got to the 3rd.. it was not very square.. no big deal.. before i put the next set down.. ill square the ends of my original 3 sheets..


<img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=37857>


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## Stewart

It will be worth it in the end!!!! I hope all the advise helped!!!

It is always real easy to spend someone elses money!!!:money: 

I know it is a little early, but here you go!:cheers:


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