# Ford Powermaster 801 carb issue



## CAEMI (Mar 17, 2009)

I've searched for archives for a couple hours and can't find a discussion of adjusting and/or rebuilding a Powermaster carb. Mine 841 runs rich. Compression is excellent, choke is open, good spark. I'd rather not spend $60 on a carb kit until I understand how this model is adjusted. Can anyone shed some light??


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy CAEMI,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland Forum.

Your 841 should have a 172 Cubic Inch engine with a Marvel Schebler carburetor. But it's 50+ years old, and parts (including the engine) may have been changed over the years. See attached diagram. Your main jet is item #27, and your idle jet is #12. 

It's easy to adjust the carburetor jets. Close the main jet and then open it 1-1/2 turns. Close the idle jet and open it one turn. Start the engine and go from there. Adjust the idle down to ~600 rpms. Adjust the main jet till it runs well at higher rpm. Then take it to the field and put it to work. If it lacks power, open the main jet till it performs with power.

The jet needles/seats are old and may be worn/corroded to the point that the above starting adjustments are no longer valid. Post back and let us know how it's going.


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## CAEMI (Mar 17, 2009)

Thanks sixbales. The PDF did not open but I found that diagram on the internet at a parts supplier and it is the same carb I have.

I'll give the adjustments a shot this morning and report back. I'm holding off on a carb rebuild until some other parts arrive in the mail - distributor cap, rotor, and wires. The points look good so I'm leaving them alone for now. I am thinking that the plug wires and cap/rotor are so gnarly that no amount of carb adjustment will cure so we'll see.

Other than this, the old tractor's engine runs excellent. Strong compression, no noises, etc. And all the gears work well, clutch is very strong, and even the brakes work.

I bought it for pulling a hay rake, manure spreader, and I plan to mount a Ford 501 sickle bar mower on it for mowing areas I can't get to with my haybine. Previous owner put a barn paint job on it and not a good one at that. So, it's ugly but should be a good utility tractor.

One other thing - the three point hitch will raise all the way up one time and only 2/3 of the way the next. It's strong - no problem lifting implements - but will not lift to the top of the range every time. Got any ideas why??


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

You have to be signed-in in order to open the pdf file.

NOTE: I deleted the remainder of this response because it pertained to the wrong model tractor. MY BAD!!


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## CAEMI (Mar 17, 2009)

Sixbales,

Again...thank you. I will check both levels later today. I've ordered books on this machine but you are helping me progress while I wait for the UPS truck.

I'm thinking the DPO (dreaded previous owner) MIGHT have changed the engine oil...maybe...but anything beyond that would have required motivation and he seemed a bit light on that. He did paint it...but I wish he'd left it alone. Probably looked nice with the ordinary patina. As for the oil, I don't think he put ten hours a year on it. Just some bush hogging but nothing more serious.

On the upside, the tractor does not look abused. The DPO thought it was but it's easy to mistake the passage of time for abuse. The rears on this tractor are 90%...but have some weather checking...so I'm thinking it was lightly used but sat outdoors for twenty years. It has been greased regularly. No cracks in the 3 pt top link point, no wowing out on the drawbar. Some routine dents and rust in the bodywork but, all in all, the worst thing that happened to it was the paint the DPO applied.

I've got a couple 5 gallon pails of TSC fluid that I keep handy. I've got an old Case 830 diesel that was about ten gallons low when I bought it. I kept pouring and pouring and pouring...amazing how big the reservoir is on those old Case machines.

Thanks again for the guidance.


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## CAEMI (Mar 17, 2009)

Sixbales, I checked over my machine and the square head plugs are not as you describe. I took a couple photos of the left and right sides and have uploaded them. The left has a dipstick at the PTO control location. The right side has a square head plug near where your right two would be. The dipstick shows an over-full condition. I haven't pulled the plug on the right...ran out of time. Would you mind looking at the photos and tell me what you think? This is a gas-engined 841, BTW. Thanks.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Sorry CAEMI,

My BAD!! I was reading a post regarding a Ford 2600 prior to responding to your note, and I got it in my head that your tractor was a 2600. I'm going to delete my previous post so others aren't confused by it. 

Your Ford 841 tractor has three separate reservoirs: 1) Transmission, 2) Hydraulic reservoir, and 3) Rear Differential.

The plug pictured on the right hand side just above the running board is the transmission fluid level check plug. The filler cap for the transmission is on top by the shifter levers.

The dipstick pictured by the PTO is for your hydraulic section. Filler cap for hydraulics is up above the dipstick under the seat. 

Fluid level check plug for the rear end is on lower left axle trumpet. Filler cap is on top of the rear end center housing.

All the drains are along the bottom from front to rear.


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## CAEMI (Mar 17, 2009)

No worries - I figured something like that occurred. The updated info sounds spot on. I'm heading out to check all three right now and will post results later.


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## CAEMI (Mar 17, 2009)

OK...I checked the differential first. I took a photo of what I found but am not posting it because it is too close to dinner time. It looked so much like puke I couldn't look at it long (LOL).

Anyway, I pulled the check plug and about a gallon of brownish yellowish fluid came out. Figured the DPO didn't think to check how much was going in...either that or he forded a couple streams and took on some water. It still had some viscosity but, geez marie was it gross looking. I drained it then put two gallons of off-road diesel in the case and went for a drive. Sloshed it about real good and drained it. I'll put some 75-90 in it tomorrow morning then start on the transmission. I'm thinking to re-use the diesel in the trans and give it the same wash job.

I'll post as I go.


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## CAEMI (Mar 17, 2009)

On a positive note, I checked compression and found three cylinders at 150 and one at 147. Pretty happy about that. The motor makes nice sounds, too. I put the stethescope on and listened carefully...nothing but the sound of a smooth-running engine.


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## CAEMI (Mar 17, 2009)

Update: I drained the trans and the oil looked fine. I was expecting the worse but was pleasantly surprised...it was in nice shape. So nice I didn't bother putting diesel fuel in it to clean it out - just going to refill with some 80w. The neutral safety was bad so I installed a new one. With the cover off I found the trans gears in near-new condition - just in excellent shape without a nick or rounded tooth in sight. Installed the switch and replaced the cover. Off to TSC to buy some 80w gear lube in a bit.

I drained the hydraulic system and flushed with a quart of gently-used Kubota Super UDT. The hydraulic fluid that came out was in decent shape - not as nice as it could have been but way better than I had feared. I filled it back up with Super UDT as it meets the updated Ford spec. I've got about 10 gallons of Super UDT that I saved when I changed out fluids on a Kubota HST I have. The fluid comes out of that tractor looking brand new so I save it for the hydraulic systems on my old tractors. It's a pain to save but at $25 a gallon, its worth it. I believe its got enough life left in it to suit the old machines just fine.

Anyway, I fired it up and found the 3 pt hitch is still not correct but I'll bring that to another thread.

So, all in all, the old girl is in way better shape than the DPO thought. He had little respect for the machine but, fortunately, he used it even less than a little - three times a year to bush hog three acres. It ran so poorly that he just didn't like it. Runs much better now and I've concluded that the worst thing about the tractor is the brushed-on paint the DPO thought would increase it's value. After it was loaded up he'd said his buddy called it "perfuming a pig". Well, maybe so...but a little time and effort and he'd have never sold it. Good 40hp-at-PTO tractor with pretty straight metal, a strong driveline, and 90% rubber for $1500 plus $100 in parts and oil. No complaints here.

Sixbales, if you have the time, if you'd look in on my 3 pt hydraulics post I'd appreciate your thoughts on what might be wrong. Thank you again for your help on this post.


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