# 3 point hitch lift not working -67 Ford 3000



## Harley1283

I have a 1967 Ford 3000 Diesel Tractor - the 3 point hitch hydraulic lift does not work - I removed the lift cover and found that both suction and return line filter screens needed cleaning, the suction filter was really clogged with sludge. I visually inspected all accessable components and reassembled, installing new o-ring seals where indicated. The lift still doesn't work. I did a pump pressure test as prescribed by the manuel and pump pressure was above 2500 psi. Any ideas on what to check next??


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## Big_T

OK, you have cleaned the suction screen and return line filter. One note - the return line filter captures dirt internally. I think most people replace this filter, but did you clean it out internally? It also has a back-pressure valve attached to the end of it that should be checked for binding, excessive wear, or damage & replace o-rings. 

Sounds like your pump is OK at 2500+ psi. Does the pressure drop when you raise the lift handle? 

Do you have the lift in "position" control as opposed to "draft" control? I think the little lever should be in the "up" position. Won't work very well in the "draft" position.

Do you happen to have remote valves on your tractor? If so, is there a lift bypass valve on it? Lift won't work in bypass position.

From the troubleshooting section of my (Ford 3600) manual, here are some other things to check when lift is not working:
1) Flow control valve binding.
2) Check valve damaged or worn.
3) Draft control or position control damaged.
4) Unload valve or back pressure valve faulty.
5) Lift piston seals damaged.
6) Unload valve plug worn.
7) Lift cylinder, lift cover, or pressure transfer tube cracked.

Note that my manual is for a Ford 3600, so there may be some things that don't apply to your 3000.


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## Harley1283

Yes Sir, It turns out that my problem was a stuck unload valve. When I bought the tractor it was very low on fluid in the rear section and had been for quite a while I believe that over time the O-ring seal on the unload valve spool had dry rotted / adhered to the rubber seal on the unload valve bushing. After some time spent fabricating tools to pull the unload valve plug, I was able to drive the spool out, clean and inspect the valve internals and install a new o-ring. I reassembled everything and presto, it works good as new. Thanks to everyone for the help.


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## wcwalton

*Ford 4000 Back Pressure Valve & Filter*

Hi,

We have a problem that may be related to this post and are wondering if someone has insight and can help us. We have a Ford 4000 Industrial (1969, 3 Cyl Diesel with Gear type Hydraulic pump). 

We are trying to get to the back pressure valve and filter so we can check it. We see the metal tube that leads to it, but the valve and filter are down in a tight area of the rear axle hydraulic area and we cannot get the valve and filter part out in order to check it. We cannot get our tools down there either. 

Does anyone know how to get the BPV and screen out?

We already cleaned out the Hydraulic pump intake filter. It was stopped up with sludge. When we put the tractor back together, neither the lift nor the PTO works. Before, it was the lift that did not work, which is what we were trying to get working. We though cleaning out the sludged intake screen would fix this. Now, our PTO also does not work, whereas at least it did before. We do still have power brakes though, so we figure the hydraulic pump is still good. Our Ford tractor mechanic had checked the hydraulic cover assembly and said that that part was fine. So now we are going back trying to check the one part that we could not, the Back Pressure Valle and Filter.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

William


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## BigT

William,

Before you get started on this project, you need to get an I&T shop manual. Cost ~$30. There's plenty of sources on the internet to get these manuals. Check ebay.

PS - Beware that you don't get the wrong manual. There's two very different versions of the Ford 4000. The early model 1962-64 had a 4 cylinder engine. The newer model had a 3 cylinder engine.

I suspect that your pump has lost prime? Needs a little help to get it going. Try applying a small amount of air pressure (15-20 psi) thru the rear end reservoir filler port to prime the pump. 

There is a plug on the flow control valve that you can pull and install a 3000 psi pressure gauge to check pressure. Should be 2000-2500 psi. I don't know which plug. The manual will show you where to test pressure.

There is a drive shaft that you have to remove to make room for working on bottom of reservoir.


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## wcwalton

*Ford 4000 Back Pressure Valve & Filter*

Big T,

Thanks. Actually, we do have the I&T manual as well as the Ford Tractor Shop Manual for the tractor--it covers several related models--ours is the 3 Cyl Diesel. The I&T manual actually has a better diagram of the Back Pressure Valve and Filter than the Ford manual. However, neither manual tells you how to get the BPV assembly out. They show a single bolt/screw, which we have removed, but the problem is that the Filter and BPV part of the assembly are down under the PTO clutch assembly. We can wiggle and shake the assembly, but there is not enough room to get it past that clutch assembly.

I also found another post where a guy said he ultimately had to remove the PTO shaft to get the BPV assembly out. (It appears that either this shaft or the upper drive shaft may be what you are referring to also.) Our concern is that according to a retired Ford tractor shop mechanic that we talked with, in order to remove those shafts, you have to separate the tractor. (He himself has never had to remove a BPV assembly, so he is not familiar with that part of the hydraulics, though he has removed the pump) 

Attached is a photo of our hydraulic compartment. This is before we removed the pump. The tube at the top of the photo runs down the side of the case. At the bottom you can see just a little bit of the PBV filter. That is what will not slide out past the PTO clutch assembly, which just below the metal shroud seen below the drive shaft. (We removed the shroud and the pump, at left, since this photo.)

What we are wondering is...

1) If there is another way to get the Back Pressure Valve and Filter out without removing the PTO shaft or PTO clutch assembly? If not, then the BIG QUESTION is, do you really have to separate the tractor to get it out, or is there another way to get it out?

2) Is there a way to "rig up something" such that we perhaps "cut" the BPV tube and assembly out of there and make some kind of shorter tube and valve (that is "above" all of that drive shaft stuff) and that allows the unload valve and other hydraulics to work right. (The manual says that the BPV holds 35 PSI pressure, so if that is all it does, can we rig this up?)

As for the pump pressure test, that is indeed one item we probably should have done. One thing we did do (after taking the hydraulic lift cover off) is simply pouring hydraulic fluid into the tube that feeds the BPV to see if it would drain down. Sure enough it does. I am wondering if that is a sign that the BPV is bad, since it should take 35 PSI for it to open from what the manual says.

Again, Thanks, and any additional recommendations would be appreciated.


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## BigT

William,

Cleaning the suction screen and having a mechanic check the lift cover were the most important things to do. 

The BPV opens when the filter gets plugged enough to provide 35 psi back pressure to open the BPV. The BPV allows circulation straight thru the filter without going thru the filter elements. Your tractor has probably been bypassing the filter for 40 years. 

One day you will have to repair the clutch pack, and then you can replace the filter. 

My manual (for a Ford 4600) says that you have to split the tractor between transmission and rear end to remove the PTO clutch pack and brake assembly. 

Right now, you have to test your pump and get it going.


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## kevingillmore

I would like to ask everyone where the unload valve is located on a ford 3000 tractor three point...Please and thank you


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## sixbales

Kevin,

Welcome to the tractor forum.

See items #10 thru #15 on attached parts diagram.


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## Thomas Coady

I have a ford 3000 gas tractor that the 3pt won't go up or down. I change the fluid last year thought it would help. it worked a little but now not at all. How do you bleed the air out? Thank You.


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## RC Wells

Go to https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::model_find then select your tractor and look at the hydraulic system. On these of this age it is usually a clogged pickup screen, or the seals on the three point lift cylinder are worn out. But, it can be as simple as a selector valve is in the wrong position.
A simple answer to your question of bleeding the air, you do not. The system self bleeds.
I also recommend anyone lucky enough to have one of these tractors pick up the operator's manual and the service manual. That tractor will be running decades after the new stuff has been melted for scrap.


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## C May

Big_T said:


> OK, you have cleaned the suction screen and return line filter. One note - the return line filter captures dirt internally. I think most people replace this filter, but did you clean it out internally? It also has a back-pressure valve attached to the end of it that should be checked for binding, excessive wear, or damage & replace o-rings.
> 
> Sounds like your pump is OK at 2500+ psi. Does the pressure drop when you raise the lift handle?
> 
> Do you have the lift in "position" control as opposed to "draft" control? I think the little lever should be in the "up" position. Won't work very well in the "draft" position.
> 
> Do you happen to have remote valves on your tractor? If so, is there a lift bypass valve on it? Lift won't work in bypass position.
> 
> From the troubleshooting section of my (Ford 3600) manual, here are some other things to check when lift is not working:
> 1) Flow control valve binding.
> 2) Check valve damaged or worn.
> 3) Draft control or position control damaged.
> 4) Unload valve or back pressure valve faulty.
> 5) Lift piston seals damaged.
> 6) Unload valve plug worn.
> 7) Lift cylinder, lift cover, or pressure transfer tube cracked.
> 
> Note that my manual is for a Ford 3600, so there may be some things that don't apply to your 3000.


Thanks folks, had same lift problem that had me taking things apart again....after reading this, found my face red but heart happy when I found the draft in wrong position...happy fix, and I replaced the still sucking old suction filter that surely needed it anyway thanks again.


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