# 1991 craftsman II transaxle problems



## TrucksAndStuff (Dec 24, 2014)

I recently put a new engine in my '91 craftsman Ii. It isnt the cube tractor, its the one with a sloped hood. It worked okay for a few minutes but after a while the transaxle started to slip. I took the transaxle apart and locked the axle and all the gears seem to be working fine. The wheels spun as fast as mormal when i put it in gear with the wheels off the ground. Could locking the acle and putting more grease in the transaxle fix it or is it most likely a larger problem? I want to fix it myself and for as cheap as possible as i will only be riding this mower for fun.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Post the model #,if you can. It makes it much easier to tell what the problem could be.
Is it possible the belt is worn,or routed wrong?


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

............And welcome to the forum!


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## TrucksAndStuff (Dec 24, 2014)

jhngardner367 said:


> Post the model #,if you can. It makes it much easier to tell what the problem could be.
> Is it possible the belt is worn,or routed wrong?


I'll put the model # up later today when i go out to the garage. The belt should not be slipping because i just put a new replacement belt on. It is a "true blue" brand belt. I was going to try to adjust the idler pulley or the tensioner pulley if possible


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## TrucksAndStuff (Dec 24, 2014)

tractor beam said:


> ............And welcome to the forum!


Thank you!


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Sorry to miss that,...Indeed welcome to the forum! 
One thing to watch out for,when replacing belts,is that some manufacturers use odd -sizes or angles,so you have to use their OEM belts,or it won't work properly. MTD,Sears/Craftsman,Husqvarna,etc. all do this.
This means , that unless you use OEM belts,or change ALL the pulleys,and idlers,the belt may slip,or be too tight,or,if the angle is wrong,it will wear out the belt quickly,or even shred a new belt.


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## TrucksAndStuff (Dec 24, 2014)

jhngardner367 said:


> Sorry to miss that,...Indeed welcome to the forum!
> One thing to watch out for,when replacing belts,is that some manufacturers use odd -sizes or angles,so you have to use their OEM belts,or it won't work properly. MTD,Sears/Craftsman,Husqvarna,etc. all do this.
> This means , that unless you use OEM belts,or change ALL the pulleys,and idlers,the belt may slip,or be too tight,or,if the angle is wrong,it will wear out the belt quickly,or even shred a new belt.



I welded the axle and locked it for better traction and now it works. I have another question if you know anything about the charging system. I got a new 12.5 OHV Briggs and I've taken out the old ignition and the new one us only able to be used for cranking the motor over. I added a kill switch and I need to hook up the alternator. The shop told me there are two wires smoking from it, a white one and a yellow one. I just need to know what wire goes where as I'm planning to rewrite it myself without the original wiring because I have changed a lot of it already. Thanks.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

jhngardner367 said:


> Post the model #,if you can. It makes it much easier to tell what the problem could be................


Ditto

Briggs come with a variety of different charging systems.
One needs to know what you had and what you are trying to use.

Possibly, the "charging" parts off the old engine can be swapped for a 'seamless" change, but without know what the old & new engines are and type of charging systems you have, there's about s 10% chance of giving you correct info.
BRIGGS Model & Type numbers!


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## TrucksAndStuff (Dec 24, 2014)

Bill Kapaun said:


> Ditto
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I found out that one of the wires goes to the battery and the other goes to the headlights. Would it matter which goes where?


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Yes.

Since you won't post the info needed, good luck.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

The wire for the lights is AC current,and won' t charge the battery.Also,if you connect DC current to that wire,it can damage the stator. If the engine has 2 wires,one will either have a small bulge,near the connector,indicating a diode,or,it will have a voltage rectifier/regulator in the system. That is why you need to post the engine model/type numbers.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

AND depending on WHICH Craftsman, it may have had a 2 diode system which supplied -DC for the lights.

Craftsman II covers a lot of different models!

Having the Sears 917.xxxxx number may provide access to a schematic so one can give "confident" advice.


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## TrucksAndStuff (Dec 24, 2014)

Bill Kapaun said:


> Yes.
> 
> Since you won't post the info needed, good luck.



Engine: model- 219707, type-0189 E1, code-060407ZA
Mower: model#- 917.254520, serial#- 1160S17959


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

The Briggs IPL shows that being a Dual Circuit alternator on the new engine.
There should be a RED & BLACK wire coming from the engine to the connector.

The connector has a diode in it on the RED side. That is your DC charging and should connect to the tractors RED wire that goes to the key switch.

The other wire is ACV for lights. It should connect to the tractors ORANGE wire going to the light switch.

It sounds like you installed the wrong ignition switch. They aren't all the same internally and an incorrect one can fry parts. Often the ignition coil which should NOT get 12V on this engine/tractor.


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## TrucksAndStuff (Dec 24, 2014)

Could I bypass the key part and run a wire straight back to the battery?


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

I downloaded a new IPL from the Briggs site for the new engine and it's a bit different.
It shows both a dual circuit & tri circuit alternator being available.
The tri circuit has only one wire from the stator.
It either plugs into a 5/9 AMP regulator or a connector that splits off with 2 wires.
That connector has a shrink wrapped diode in it.

You "could" run the charge wire directly to the battery, but I wouldn't recommend it.
IF the diode doesn't have high resistance to current back flow, the battery will slowly drain. The PROPER key switch disconnects it when OFF.

You can get an Owners Manual for the tractor here-
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0804376.pdf
It has a schematic.
However, there are a lot of riding lawn mowers/small tractors that ARE wired direct.


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## TrucksAndStuff (Dec 24, 2014)

Bill Kapaun said:


> I downloaded a new IPL from the Briggs site for the new engine and it's a bit different.
> It shows both a dual circuit & tri circuit alternator being available.
> The tri circuit has only one wire from the stator.
> It either plugs into a 5/9 AMP regulator or a connector that splits off with 2 wires.
> ...



Thank you so much. I'll cut a hole in the dash and wire a switch for the charging switch so the battery won't have that possibility of slowly draining. Sorry for taking so long to get the serial numbers by the way.


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