# Craftsman 46" snow blower elongated shear pin holes needing repairs



## Steve Gilbert (Jul 2, 2020)

I have a 25 hp GT5000 with the 46" blower. It is snapping shear pins. The auger holes are elongated and I was wondering if these can be welded or is there other ways that can repair these.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hi Steve,

Can you drill new holes?? They must be centered on the shaft, or very close to centered. Might require a machine shop? 
My first inclination was to weld it and re-drill....


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

How about drilling the oblong hole(s) large enough to insert a large enough roll pin that is large enough to insert your sheer pins.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

You would of course need to grind the excess length off the roll pin but it's an idea.


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## Steve Gilbert (Jul 2, 2020)

Thanks for the ideas. I think about machining new holes but was afraid of wreaking the augers unless I could have the old holes welded shut as well. Never thought of adding a liner in the auger hole. I could keep the unit together, weld the liner to the auger and fill the holes.. my fear is making a mistake welding and welding the auger to the shaft. probably have it done as I am only a hobby welder 
Thanks again to both of ya


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Take a look at using shortened "Acres Sleeves" to make that repair if it's just the outside tubes on the auger(s). Drill them to fit the "wallow" damage, cut/grind them to fit the thickness of the tube, drive them in with the pin inserted using a socket to keep from distorting the new bore. They are usually grade 8, so the shear pins will still work....











https://www.clickbond.com/products/acres-sleeves


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

That's along the lines of what I was proposing except that the roll pin would be super tensioned snug fitting in the hole.


Bob Driver said:


> Take a look at using shortened "Acres Sleeves" to make that repair if it's just the outside tubes on the auger(s). Drill them to fit the "wallow", cut/grind them to fit the thickness of the tube, drive them in with the pin inserted using a socket to keep from distorting the bore. They are usually grade 8, so the shear pins will still work....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

You drill the damage to a slight interference fit with the sleeve.... That's why you use the drive-in pin/socket technique


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Is there enough room to weld a thicker "block" there so that the hole would have s little bit more meat there? If there was the room that is.


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## Steve Gilbert (Jul 2, 2020)

great stuff and thanks.. never done this so will need figure this out.. will try to get a pic or 2 added of what I want to fix


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

My only concern with drilling in an elongated hole is that the drill bit will follow the path of least resistance, and the hole will be off center?


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

I'd think that if you could get it in a vert. mill or drill press and clamped or use a drill fixture for centering on a rounded piece, you'd be great, but free handing that, yes, I'd be leery.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hoodoo Valley said:


> I'd think that if you could get it in a vert. mill or drill press and clamped or use a drill fixture for centering on a rounded piece, you'd be great, but free handing that, yes, I'd be leery.


That should work. But many of us do not have the necessary equipment to hold it in place. Maybe you have a neighbor that has a drill press and a piece of centering equipment??


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## Steve Gilbert (Jul 2, 2020)

I have a drill press but still may have it done to make sure that everything is done correctly.. thanks


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

_"I have a drill press"_

It's the auger on a snowblower, you're not line-boring something on the space shuttle. Use a snug fitting drill bit to line up the two holes. Clamp it down like you're worried about it be stolen by a roving Mongol horde and then start drilling


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## Steve Gilbert (Jul 2, 2020)

that was my approach coming into this.. my initial idea was getting a brass pin the same size of the shear pin and then slowly weld the hold closed and grinding it flat..


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## Jesse R Meisterling (Dec 4, 2019)

Steve Gilbert said:


> I have a 25 hp GT5000 with the 46" blower. It is snapping shear pins. The auger holes are elongated and I was wondering if these can be welded or is there other ways that can repair these.


Hi, I have the same set up, 2004 GT5k, I had the same problem. I picked up an SAE grade 5 (3 lines) bolt with a shank as long as the OD of the auger tube, used a washer so the when tight, did not bind up when tight, made it as tight as I felt wouldn't yield the bolt and it has been fine for 3 yrs now. We just had 11" of snow, worked great.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

BigT said:


> My only concern with drilling in an elongated hole is that the drill bit will follow the path of least resistance, and the hole will be off center?


This is one area where a plasma cutter is worth the expenditure. You can draw the hole and location you need and very carefully cut the hole you need with almost no slag to remove. Mine will cut a 1/16 path in 3/8 metal with a steady hand. I try to use a guide for a more precise cut. Metal up to 1/2 can be cut, but leaves a wider cut due to the length of time to penetrate the thicker metal.


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## Steve Gilbert (Jul 2, 2020)

GM everyone I have found a temp fix in finding a small bushing that I was able to modify to tighten the slack. I hope that this will work for the season but come spring I am thinking of having them welded and then re-drilled.


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