# TC29 PTO jumping out of gear



## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

1999 TC29 9 speed w/ Live PTO 2650 hrs

Since I've owned this tractor, the PTO has always had a bit of a grind when engaging. Over the past couple months it's worsened to the point that it will not stay in gear at all even when holding it in place.

I assume that the Sliding Gear and/or the Rear PTO Countershaft has missing or worn teeth. If that assumption is correct, the service manual says to split the tractor at the Engine and Clutch, then split at the Transmission and Rear Axle Housing. 

There are a whole bunch of steps involved in doing this job and I feel up to the challenge but am wondering if there are any steps in the manual that can be skipped to shorten the job? Has anyone here tackled this one before? 

Is there any other reason that it would be slipping out of gear?

Thanks. Any tips are appreciated!


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Your assumption is most likely correct. It's also likely that some of the debris from those gears is now restricting flow through the hydraulic filter and may be responsible for some of your hydraulic noise. 
I've seen this problem on other TC series tractors and have replaced the needed parts without splitting the tractor at all. The gears in question are in the rear main housing and were accessed by removing the three point lift housing. The biggest headache is all the plastic, levers, knobs and linkage that must be removed and then put back in place after.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

Thanks Fedup,

Does the three point housing sit on top of the rear axle housing just above my finger in the pic? If that is removed, are the offending parts under the cover I'm pointing to.

Looks like I need to remove the seat, fenders, all levers and drain hydro fluid, to get to it?

Once that top cover of the axle housing is off can the offending parts be removed though the top or back without being able to drive the output shaft from the front side of the housing? (Step 3)


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

Step 3 here


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Correct on all counts. Once the lift housing is off and things disconnected on the inside, the output shaft can be removed with a slide hammer. Your manual will describe the rest.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

Thanks again. Anything else I should be looking for or replacing while its apart?

Does anyone know where to purchase aftermarket New Holland PTO parts? Factory versions are quite pricey. They want 200+ for that gear and $230 for the countershaft. I have to think someone has them for less than that.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

From this point I assume the levers all come off and then the bolts that appear to hold the three point lift housing on? After the bolts that hold the housing are off will that entire 3pt assembly just lift off or are there a bunch on things inside that will hold it in place?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

There should be no surprises. Once you break the glue joint, the housing will lift straight up.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

So there really is nothing else holding the three point in place? I have all levers, nuts and bolts either off or loose. I have the assembly strapped to a ceiling winch and I can lift the entire rear of the tractor up by the three point assembly. That is some good glue if that is all that is holding it!

There was a bunch metal particles in the fluid.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

... and when I do get the bad parts out, any ideas on how to flush the remaining metal junk out of the rest of the system?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

The "glue" they use is indeed some stout stuff. If it were me, I wouldn't suspend things that way without a few strategically placed nuts threaded on just far enough to allow some movement. Should the joint break loose with things suspended as pictured and one end of the housing separate first, it's possible to bend some studs on the opposite end.
I would use just a bit of tension on the hoist and straps, then a few well placed raps with a hammer and often use a sharp chisel or other tool applied at various intervals around the joint mating surfaces. Sometimes a pry bar under the rockshaft arms or control quadrant support casting. Anything that allows you to exert some extra force on the glue joint without breaking something. 
As for cleaning, I remove the hydraulic filter base exposing an opening which offers a good place to drain the housing while flushing. Once all the necessary parts, pieces, shafts and gears are removed I rinse as much as possible with diesel or solvent, then using magnets, compressed air, and maybe a few cans of brake cleaner, most of the garbage can be removed. It takes a while, yes, and helps to have a compressor with some capacity, but it does work.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

Well here's the problem... ouch!


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

Thanks fed... got it off just as you were replying.

What do I attach the slide hammer to to drive that shaft out?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Here again, "improvise". I have a few old driveline yokes, some for 540 shafts, some for 1000. Each has been customized so either a 5/8" or 3/4" nut could be attached. These happen to be the sizes that match my slide hammers. They can be quickly locked onto a PTO output shaft and then removed with the hammer.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

Sliding gear is out... on the improvising. 

...on to the countershaft. 

Thank again Fed.

In your experience with this particular job, is there anything else that should be replaced while it is all apart?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I would expect no more than the two gears involved unless you see something obvious in there. 
The output shaft seal, a rubber backed core plug, oil and a filter. That's all that comes to mind.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

As suspected, I believe it's just the sliding gear and the countershaft involved. As far as I can tell, the bearings all look good. There was a bunch of brownish-tan sludge in the bottom of the case as well as pieces and chunks of the gears. I dumped a gallon or two of diesel over everything and then "power washed" it with diesel with my air compressors aerosol gun. That did a pretty good job of get everything looking clean. I ended up with a good amount of gear trash.

I see that there is a screen filter bolted on the right side of the case. I was only able to get the sludge off and hrough that as it appears that the wheel and axle have to be removed to actually take out the filter. Should I be concerned about metal trash that may have gotten into the axle parts or further up in the transmission? Not sure how meticulous I need to be. 

Had you found any place that sells the parts besides New Holland? I've had no luck so far. 

Thanks so much again for all of your info! It's been a big help.


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)




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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

Finally got all of the replacement parts. I think everything is good except for the large bearing on the rear end of the countershaft. I ordered a 6206 but received a 6206N C3. The dimensions are the same but it has a groove in it for a snap ring. (See pics) Since it appears that the purpose of this bearing is just to support the back of the countershaft, is there any reason why this bearing wouldn't work in place of the "proper" one?
Comparing the old gears to the new ones, I was pretty surprised to see they were not supposed to tapered! I ended up getting about 2x more trash out of the case than the above pics show. It's looking pristine now. I wish this thing had magnetic drain plugs to catch gear trash!


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## QuickPuppy (Oct 20, 2016)

For those interested, both the bearing manufacturer and a parts guy at NH said the bearings should work fine. I got the replacement parts in place and they seem to work like they are supposed to. Just have to put the rest back together at this point.


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## SwampDog (Nov 7, 2019)

Sorry to revive an old thread but I’m getting ready to do the same job. Did you have to purchase a special glue to put the 3 point lift housing back on?


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## Steveale61 (May 12, 2020)

I’m just in the middle of this same job. My one way PTO clutch has given up. Symptoms are that pto will turn implement (tiller) under no load. Put it on the ground and the PTO output shaft no longer turns. When engaged the PTO output shaft can actually be held with a wrench by hand. You can feel slippage in the tractors attempt to turn the output shaft.


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## Steveale61 (May 12, 2020)

I will probably do a separate thread on my rebuild. Seems the one way clutch bearing sits inside a bell shaped shaft in the middle countershaft assembly. You cannot remove it out the top without the differential removed. Which means the axle casings had to be removed from the center casing. I have that done but it is still unclear if I will have to separate the transmission from the PTO case to complete this job.


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## Steveale61 (May 12, 2020)

Also I did research on this casing adhesive. It appears to be anaerobic and similar to auto seam sealer. I found using a 5 way tool (heavy duty putty knife) and using the sharp pick end to score and break the exposed ooze bead helps tremendously. Then I used a hand held propane torch to heat/warm the adhesive. It made the separation process of the cases much quicker. Buy at least 2 of the five way tools. Here is the link on adhesives. https://www.permabond.com/resource-center/adhesive-debonding-stronger-adhesives/ The clue was the white chalky residue when I was scoring the beads. It pointed me to the anaerobic adhesive remediation with heat.


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