# MF GC2410 Front Loader Hydraulic Problem



## Snowguy (Mar 2, 2017)

After moving snow around in my yard for an hour or so my DL100 Front Loader quit Curling and Dumping. The bucket will still raise and lower but not dump and curl. 

Not sure what the issue might be, anybody have any ideas?


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Welcome snowguy! Only thing I can think of right off is if you have a detachable loader to be sure that your quick connect hydraulic couplers are all firmly in place. I was in the brush once and had one of mine pop loose but was still in place in appearance.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Snowguy,

We had a similar problem just a few days ago. Dozer966 had a good idea for troubleshooting the tilt cylinders:

"You can take off the HYD hose on lower part of both cylinders, put them in a bucket activate valve for top line till cylinders max out and keep pressure to see if the (piston) packings bypass. Then you would know if one ,both or none are leaking oil. If only one leaks bad isolate it and repeat process on good one to make sure it does not have a slight leak. Good luck"


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

sixbales said:


> Snowguy,
> 
> We had a similar problem just a few days ago. Dozer966 had a good idea for troubleshooting the tilt cylinders:
> 
> "You can take off the HYD hose on lower part of both cylinders, put them in a bucket activate valve for top line till cylinders max out and keep pressure to see if the (piston) packings bypass. Then you would know if one ,both or none are leaking oil. If only one leaks bad isolate it and repeat process on good one to make sure it does not have a slight leak. Good luck"




Thanks sixbales but not my idea just something I learned over the years as an operator working with mechanics trouble shooting in the feild. So it's one of those pass it on moments.


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## Snowguy (Mar 2, 2017)

Actually I did disconnect and reconnect the quick connections already. I also swapped the curl/dump connectors with the raise/lower and the curl/dump still did not function but the raise/lower did. Once I swapped them back still same problem. So I am thinking the problem may be the connectors or some where in the lines ahead of them. Does that sound right?


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Do the test that me and sixbales talked about and with someone holding the hose in the bucket see if you have good flow coming out. This will give you a place to start looking for the problem. Process of elimination. Rule out the cylinder and move your way back.


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## Snowguy (Mar 2, 2017)

One of my neighbors suggested the same test, also suggested the line could be frozen, didn't think of that. May wait a few days for the temps to warm up a bit, get some double digits at least.


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## dozer966 (Dec 30, 2014)

Yes it could be frozen, is the oil a milky couler or is it clear. Milky would mean water in the oil. You did say you had been pushing snow for an hour so HYD would have been hot so I doubt that is the problem. My guess is cylinders or line restrictions or bad/plugged valve. Good luck


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## Snowguy (Mar 2, 2017)

Finally got a decent day to get back to working on my tractor. Was at a friend's house two nights ago and after explaining my issue he showed me his old Kubota which has the control valve exposed and is connected by cotter pins. He said sometimes the pins break. So I took mine apart to see if that was the issue, no pins and everything there looks fine. 

Then I disconnected the lower HYD Hose upfront as suggested and the curl line shot out fluid but the dump line did not. At some point - not sure how this happened - the bucket did lower itself and then was able to curl back on command, but not dump. So obviously it's just the dump line that's the problem. 

Then I went ahead and replaced the quick connector. Before I put the new one on, I tested to see if fluid would come out of the line where the new connector was going on. It did. After the new connector was in place the dump function still does not work and could not get fluid to come out of lower HYD hose. 

So frustrated.


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## Snowguy (Mar 2, 2017)

We had another couple of warm days giving me a chance to work this problem some more. After replacing the quick connector > still getting no fluid out of the lower disconnected hose. So I then disconnected the first connection after the quick connector to see if anything at all was making it that far. Nothing on the regular Dump command. Just by dumb luck I got flow out of the dump hose during the lower command if I toggled the joy stick just so. Re-connected the hose to see if I could get the bucket to dump while lowering and toggling the joystick "just-so" but the bucket would ease down quicker then I was able to toggle. So now I am thinking the problem may be in the linkage of the joystick (which to the naked eye looks fine) or the value spooler.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If your little Iseki built MF has the loader valves under the right side of the floor, they tend to accumulate water and freeze ice on the spools in very cold weather because the valves are the lowest exposed point of the hydraulic system. Water is heavier than oil, and settles there and freezes. Does not take much, just a couple of drops to create problems.

Judicious use of a heat gun or the wife's hair dryer may just solve the problem. Then change your hydraulic oil and filters during the next service interval.


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## Snowguy (Mar 2, 2017)

You may have a grand idea there RC; and since it stopped so sudden while I was pushing snow around I suspected something froze up. Use to have the same problem years ago in a house with a forced hot water heat system. If air got in there, and a spot froze, it was a nightmare to track down. The loader values are indeed under my right foot. We have about 4 days of cold wet weather hitting us now. Once it cycles thru I will try your idea. Makes good sense.

But my friend "little Iseki built MF" really? Ouch!


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Iseki makes very good tractors, they are all that AGCO sells in that size and use class and are actually much better than the green and yellow Chinese built units in this same class of equipment as sold by the other guys.


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## Snowguy (Mar 2, 2017)

My problem has finally been solved. Thanks to everyone who pitched in ideas. Once the weather warmed up here and I had a good chance to test the lines front to back; turns out the issue was a pinched cable coming off the joystick. Just replaced it ($95) and its running fine.  - now its back to work.


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