# Tractor Shut Off While Driving



## Amadago (May 18, 2020)

About a week ago I was mowing the lawn and my tractor just shut off. I had my kids on my lap, so I just assumed one of them hit the key, but that wasn't it. It seems odd that the tractor just shut off and wouldn't restart. I tried jumping the tractor and charging the battery, but that didn't work. 

So, I've been doing some research and cannot figure it out. I've read everything from a bad solenoid to a bad ignition switch. I'm not an electrician, so it's hard for me to really tell where the problem lies. The fact that it just shut off while driving is odd. It seems almost like a wire got cut, fell off, etc. I pulled the battery and there was "plug" that was not plugged in. Now, I know that seems like a no-brainer, plug it in and be done, but I cannot find anywhere to plug it in. I'm thinking it's some kind of accessory, but cannot tell. Anyway, all I can tell you is there is not even a click when I try to turn the tractor on. ANY thoughts on this would be super helpful. 

Best,
Mike


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It helps a bit if you reveal brand, model, year, type of fuel and (if possible) Serial Number.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Seat switch?


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## Amadago (May 18, 2020)

Sorry, it's a Craftsman LT2000, sorry - great call out. Also @pogobill I thought that too, but I unplugged the seat switch and got nothing. I assumed unplugging it would bypass the switch.


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Amadago, You must put a jumper wire across the plug to complete the circuit. It won't work just unplugged. That leaves an open circuit. It will not crank with an open circuit. 

When you sit in the seat you actuate the seat switch which completes the circuit (if the seat switch is working ok).


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## Amadago (May 18, 2020)

Ok, I was wondering about that. Thanks @harry16. So, rookie question on that - if there are four openings on the plug, is there a methodology to know which openings to connect?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

If there are only two wires going to the plug, two blades are unused. Put the jumper wire between the two openings where the wires go to.


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## Amadago (May 18, 2020)

Sorry for the delay in getting back to this. I tried testing it tonight. It's a four prong connector though, and since I didn't know which combination (outer to outer, inner to inner) to use, I ended up trying both, but no joy on either combo. With my Ohm meter, I tested the voltage coming into the Starter (red to red, and I didn't see a ground, so I just put the other meter wire to ground). Anyway, I'm not certain that test was valid since I didn't go to the Starter's ground, but there was no voltage there. If that test was good, would that indicate that the solenoid was bad?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

You probably have a switch/connector gadget like this:
https://tp69.blog/2016/10/22/safety-switches/

The connector shorts all four wires when you unplug it. With the seat switch unplugged, the system act as there is no one sitting in the seat. That means that you can not fool the system by bypassing or putting jumper wires.

All slots in the connector need to have a blade in them, and the blades should not be connected to each other, or anything else.
If you do not want to cut the wires that goes to the connector, look at the blades on the seat switch and see if you can find any crimp terminals that will fit:
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/non-insulated-male-blade-crimp-terminal-with-locking-tab.html

Put one terminal in each connector slot, without any connections.


You should be able to test the switch, though.
***Edit
The testing of the switch is better explained in the tp69 blog I linked to.
***


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## Amadago (May 18, 2020)

Thanks for that reply - great insight. Yes, that's pretty much what my connector looks like and that makes sense now. So, are you saying that I can cut the wires to the connector entirely, and that'll essentially bypass the connector / blade issue entirely? I'm just not sure I can find the blades to put in there. If so, do you just leave the wires hanging separate from each other, or do they need to be connected in a sequence - sorry, I just am not a wiring expert by any stretch

**Quick Add >> would adding four wire extensions (not connected to anything, but plugged into the openings), essentially act as the blades as well or no?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Inside the slots that receives the blades, there are contacts that shorts the circuit. When the blades are inserted, they open the contacts. You need something that is very similar in form to function like the blades on the switch.

If you want to cut the wires, their ends should be isolated from each other and anything else.

Before cutting the wires I would test the switch and, if possible, test the function in place. There may be something wrong with the arrangement that acts upon the switch.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I need to correct myself:
It is only the middle slots that have the contacts. The contacts are opened by the plastic triangular "heels" on the switch body. The contacts can be opened with two toothpicks (read the comments on the tp69 blog).


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## Amadago (May 18, 2020)

Gotcha - that makes complete sense. For testing the switch - I'm going to need to research that. I'm not entirely clear on how to do that.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I quote the blog (It is a brand new switch, this is how the switch should work):

"...
Having thus acquired a seat safety switch, I then used a multimeter to test the electrical continuity between all possible combinations of pins. This was first done with the switch in its default ‘off’ position (spring-loaded pin all the way up) and then in its ‘on’ position (pin pressed down). Here are the results:

switch ‘off’ (pin up)
open circuit: 1-2, 1-3, 2-4, 3-4
closed circuit: 1-4, 2-3
switch ‘on’ (pin down)
open circuit: 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 2-3, 2-4, 3-4
closed circuit: nothing
..."

With "nothing" he means open circuit at all combinations.


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## Fotoguzzi (Jan 12, 2020)

Could you be out of gas?


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## Busted Tractor (May 22, 2018)

You have not stated if the engines turns over or if it does and just doesn't start. May I present a couple of quick tips.? If engine does not turn over---Is a fuse blown? Does the fuel solenoid click? If you are using a voltmeter or trouble light is there voltage to the red wire at the key switch? If you attempt to start the engine does the light hooked to the red wire go out-- is there voltage to the started solenoid (the small terminal)? If any of these issues are NO you have an electrical problem. If the engine turns over--- Disconnect the kill wire at the engine (usually a white wire) now try to start it does it turn over? Does it start? Note this will remove the tractor wiring out of the ignition circuit if it starts you have to short the wire to ground to stop the engine. Yes this will eliminate even the seat switch which is usually setup to kill the engine unless the PTO switch and the clutch is depressed or locked in park. MOST seat switched do not stop an engine from cranking. If you take a wire from the battery (+) to the small post of the solenoid will the engine turn over? If so that indicates a bad fuse, bad switch, broken wire, or a bad connection. 
As for the unconnected plug you found often manufacturers make one harness for a variety of machines so all connection may or may not be used.


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## willy81 (Jan 30, 2020)

have you pulled the fuel line o;ff the carb and cranked it to see if you are getting any gas?
You just might have lost the vaccum if no gas comes out.
I purchased a $10 electric fuel pump from amazon that solved the problem


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## Amadago (May 18, 2020)

Hey Everyone - 

Thank you for all your help. This really couldn't have been more helpful. Sorry I didn't call it out at the beginning, but I did check the gas (always worth a check though). I was pretty sure this was something electrical given the tractor just completely "shut off" while I was cutting. It didn't even stall or sputter out. 

So, last night I was able to fix it. As I mentioned in the beginning, there was this wire just hanging there. I looked everywhere for a plug, and couldn't find anything. I was assuming it was an accessory plug. Last night I was chatting with PartsDirect to get a schematic of the wiring connectors. It sparked me looking for a plug again, and I found it. It was buried under the right wheel well. I could barely reach it let alone see it. It was dumb luck, but that was it in the end. 

Thanks again for all the help.


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