# building shed for lawn mower please advice



## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

building shed for lawn mower please advice

I've started w/ three walls, next I plan to put a sheet of plastic under the walls then put concrete pavers under walls and cover the floor w/ pavers.

currently working on roof joists.
?1.should the back wall against house be a little higher? it's currently 6" higher than opposing wall.I'm concidering slapping more wood on this wall?

?2.the outside siding didn't lineup according to plan so I think I will cover w/ a upright angle, or is there a better option?

?3.should there be another layer of wood ontop of the walls just under the roof joist?

any tips 
yes I know I should have started w/ plastic on ground found this out to late.

image the the snapper when I first brought her home she's a tad dirty plan to clean her and paint the deck.

TB


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## Trubble (Apr 13, 2015)

TheBrain said:


> ?1.should the back wall against house be a little higher? it's currently 6" higher than opposing wall.I'm concidering slapping more wood on this wall?


Depends on what you get for weather. What you have looks like it'll be okay for rain, but up here in Wisconsin, it's not uncommon to have a couple feet of snow gathering on the roof. Something that flat will get caved in up here.
And with it being that flat, I'd personally go rubber membrane or sheet metal roof. I wouldn't do an overlap like shakes or shingles, not on something that flat.



TheBrain said:


> ?2.the outside siding didn't lineup according to plan so I think I will cover w/ a upright angle, or is there a better option?


Not sure what you mean by "a upright angle", sorry. For a simple shed, built with reclaimed wood like it is, I'd personally leave it like that. Has kind of a rustic, craftsman style charm to it.



TheBrain said:


> ?3.should there be another layer of wood ontop of the walls just under the roof joist?


Again, it'll depend on if your roof ever has to support any weight. Up here, I would, but like I said, I have to deal with winter snow loads. For milder climates, what you got should be good enough.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Trubble said:


> Depends on what you get for weather. What you have looks like it'll be okay for rain, but up here in Wisconsin, it's not uncommon to have a couple feet of snow gathering on the roof. Something that flat will get caved in up here.
> And with it being that flat, I'd personally go rubber membrane or sheet metal roof. I wouldn't do an overlap like shakes or shingles, not on something that flat.
> 
> 
> ...


I used to live in Madison so I can relate to being snowed in.
reside in central Alabama it rarely snows here.

I guess I will slap a little more wood on top of the walls w/ a 2x4 then then slap a 4x4 on the wall closer to the wall because I was planning on using singles think that will be enough of a pitch for shingles, I think a metal roof would make the shed look cheap.

I was thinking about a metal roof if I could paint it black to resemble singles man at lowes said the metal has grease on it making it diffacult to paint.

Thanks TB


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

For what you are working with, you did a fine job there! Nice retro fitting on those siding corners! I'd turn those rafters 90 degrees so that they have a bit more strength to them than laying on their sides or is that your roof sheeting (no rafters) ? If you go with Galvanized metal or the Zincalume it will have an oil on it but if you let it weather a year then you could paint it black but it'd sure be hot in the summers! That's got be about a zero cost shed there, nice!


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## Trubble (Apr 13, 2015)

TheBrain said:


> Just two vertical broads nailed together as a angle then cover the corner,


Ah! Okay, I understand now. That'd be a nice touch to add if you got the time and materials.

Sounds like your days of dealing with ice dams are done, so perhaps shingles _would_ work for you on that shed.

I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

tractor beam said:


> For what you are working with, you did a fine job there! Nice retro fitting on those siding corners! I'd turn those rafters 90 degrees so that they have a bit more strength to them than laying on their sides or is that your roof sheeting (no rafters) ? If you go with Galvanized metal or the Zincalume it will have an oil on it but if you let it weather a year then you could paint it black but it'd sure be hot in the summers! That's got be about a zero cost shed there, nice!


thanks for kind words

look at the last image of the shed see the three 2x4 these are the first couple joists I installed.
the flat piece is just a brace.

actually I started w/ 3 6' treated 4x4s as a foundation for around $25. nails about $20. pavers will be $50. shingles and felt will be $80. plywood for roof $10.
hinges door handles ect yet to be determined.



Trubble said:


> Ah! Okay, I understand now. That'd be a nice touch to add if you got the time and materials.
> 
> Sounds like your days of dealing with ice dams are done, so perhaps shingles _would_ work for you on that shed.
> 
> I'm looking forward to seeing how it turns out.


yes I couldn't survive up there on a regular basis I have been up there on business many times w/ my overstuffed down coat. 

only downside down here is the heat and humidity.

the Gulf of Mexico is like a paridice.

I'll update the corner and redo the joists today.

the hardest part is dissassembley of the plattletts.
Thanks TB


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

update
corner
added wall wood
roof joist3
ventalation rooftrim


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Now that's much better!


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

pogobill said:


> Now that's much better!


thanks

I'm taking my time w/ the roof because I want to add a few wall studs and I want 4x4
on each side of doorway nailed downward on walls.

I plan to use bug screen on the roof ventilation.

next will be the vapor buriery for floor and pavers.

I plan to secure to ground only w/ wooden steaks beaten into the ground.

TB


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

You could have at least three inches of rise for every foot of run on the roof.
You've done pretty good dismantling those pallets without just making a pile of kindling. Y


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## douber1 (Nov 5, 2010)

cut the palets on the inside asto get to the nails 
with sawsall using a metal blade 
works good


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I used a 15" flat pry bar very time consuming. quite few broads cracked.

I plan to secure to ground only w/ wooden steaks beaten into the ground.


I can only use two one on each side of doorway because I'm cover floor w/ pavers

any suggestions on securing shed to ground I don't want to drill into the house.

thanks


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

You could always get a small roll of that galvanized strapping that they use to hang pipes and ducks in the basement. Nail one end of a 2 foot length of that to your framing, then pin the other end to the ground with a spike, then lay your pavers on top of it. I'd use three or four strips per side, and make sure you form the strap to the shape of your sill timbers otherwise your shed will jump around when you drop your pavers in! That might work for you, and it's cheap!


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

pogobill said:


> You could always get a small roll of that galvanized strapping that they use to hang pipes and ducks in the basement. Nail one end of a 2 foot length of that to your framing, then pin the other end to the ground with a spike, then lay your pavers on top of it. I'd use three or four strips per side, and make sure you form the strap to the shape of your sill timbers otherwise your shed will jump around when you drop your pavers in! That might work for you, and it's cheap!


OK you're suggesting on having the spike or wooden steak and strape on the outside
of shed walls.

I plan on having the pavers completely under each 4x4.

or are you saying drive the steaks into the ground from inside then break the pavers (which are 12"x12") down to 4" pieces to fit just under 4x4 then push the floor pavers against the 4x4 pavers?

I won't be able to drive a spike on the outside wall closest to house was thinking of not shoving the paver completely under this 4x4 and drilling though the 4x4 and driving a spike though the hole?

the door way will be easy to secure.

I only have a 4LB BFH how far will I be able to beat a steak into the ground the dirt is dry and kindof hard? plan to beat on steaks after a good rain soaking
Thanks TB


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## douber1 (Nov 5, 2010)

hi
if you have any of those green fence post that you can pound into the ground at the 2 corners and then screw the rest of the post to the corner post 
i think the wood will rot over time compared to the metal post
good luck


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## Trubble (Apr 13, 2015)

TheBrain said:


> was thinking of not shoving the paver completely under this 4x4 and drilling though the 4x4 and driving a spike though the hole?


This is what I was going to suggest.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

started vapor barrier looks like I will have to remove some dirt under the wall 
closest to house then shove the pavers in.

the land is'nt even it's like a decline from the house.

see the corner not sure how to fill this opening maybe dirt under the pavers?
or don't remove some dirt under the wall 
closest to house and just elavate wall closest to house to reduce corners opening?

I may just not have pavers under wall closest to house and shove the plastic under the 4x4


I picked up the shingles, felt and plywood for roof I was surpised at the weight 
of one
bundle of shingles I think the weight will diffenitly help seccure the shed to 
ground.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Make sure you maintain that slope that you have away from the house. You don't want rain water run off heading for your foundation!


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I may just not have pavers under wall closest to house and shove the plastic under the 4x4 
can I get away w/ just plastic under the 4x4?


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

You can use plastic but it can also trap moisture, causing rot. Your best bet is to get those pavers (at least one under each end) under that bottom sill. Pull out just enough dirt under the corner in your highlighted area to insert a paver then remove the rest of the dirt so that the weight comes down on that corner paver. You technically should have at least 6 inches of clearance between the dirt and untreated wood, but any gap at all, will allow the wood sill to dry out should it get wet from the weather.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I was able to dig and shove pavers under the 4x4 the floor is almost completed.

I plan to have the roofs plywood extend 1" past the roof 
joist then have the shingle extend another 1" so hopefully the 
inside wood won't get wet.

will extend plywood 3" to cover door.

I plan to bend and tape the roofs row of shingles agaist house so
water won't go down the brick wall and soak the inside wood.

also will tape shingle to brick on corner.

I'm hopeing the roof will help stabilize the three walls.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Nice job on the floor! You should extend your roofing beyond the walls as much as you can to keep the drip line away from the walls. When you put down your felt, just roll your last course up on to the wall about 4 inches so it transitions from the roof to the wall, then if you can come up with some metal flashing, do the same thing over your finished roof on to the wall.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

how far do you suggest to extend the plywood roof from the side walls?
Thanks


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

TheBrain said:


> how far do you suggest to extend the plywood roof from the side walls?
> Thanks


You're going to be limited by the lack of framing (rafters) extending beyond your bearing wall as well as the ability to nail at the very edge of your roof sheeting when it comes to installing the roofing (unless you use metal) but you can go 6 inches with 1/2 inch plywood or OSB (oriented strand board) or as I call it....... Beaver Board! If you use 5/8 material, you can extend those eaves out to 8 inches. Any further and the sheathing will bounce as you try to nail it at shingle time!


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

decided tp take you'r advice .

extended 3 rafters the two outside ones then one in the middle, so the plywood is extended 8".

should the felt be cut even w/ the exposed sides (opposite of wall on brick and opposite of doorway)

or should I extend the felt and tuck it in under the walls?

as of right now I have the plywood extended 11" past the doorway and 10" exrtended on opposite wall.

I'm planning on using 18" pavers to complete the floor.

recent observation the doorway is about 3"s lower than the opposite wall however there is water on my vapor barrier. I was hoppeing for natural drainage.

maybe if no water enters shed I won't have to worrey about drainage?

Thanks
TB


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

TheBrain said:


> decided tp take you'r advice .
> 
> extended 3 rafters the two outside ones then one in the middle, so the plywood is extended 8".
> 
> ...


Looking good! The plywood can now be cut flush with your perimeter 2X4 and if you were to extend it out toward your mini van and also toward where you were standing when you snapped your photo about 6 1/2 inches as well, then you can scab 2X4s going up your rake (roof pitch) to the brick wall and now your 8 inch (6 1/2 inches plus the 2X4 facia going up the rake equals 8 inches overhang) Now all your eaves would be supported.  Felt..... Should overhang all edges about 1/4 to 1/2 inch. 

With those pavers on the ground, there's really no need for a vapor barrier..... you can put plastic between the wood and the pavers themselves, but there's no need for the plastic in the field. You typically would do the vapor barrier in a totally enclosed area such as a crawl space, but your shed really isn't going to be totally airtight and there's no insulation to hold the moisture so if it's not a hassle, I'd pull the plastic out so the water can drain into the dirt. I hope I was somewhat clear and you could understand my meaning!


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I can't understand how the roofs plywood got cocked.

I think you'r right it would look much better trimmed.

The plywood is actualley overhanging next to Astro Van and where I snapped the image by 10" on both sides.

I was actually planning to start w/ felt an shingles just as it is?

not sure how I should scab surport these ends maybe like this?

if I left the plastic there would it hurt anything?

thanks TB


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

started felt an shingles


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Awesome thread and documentation there! It's all coming together nicely and now I'm wondering what color you going to paint the ol' shed?


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Shed is very stable except for at doorway, was hopeing roof would stabilize it more.

think I'll build a small wall to help stabilize it.

or would a triangle be stronger?

color will be white same as house trim.

the Lady at Lowes suggested I power spray ( I don't have a power sprayer) the wood because it has chemicals in it
then to sand smooth then prime and paint, this seams way to much extra work.

one bundle of shingles only covered half of roof.

if I left the plastic on floor would it hurt anything?

thanks TB


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

No need to sand it or power wash it, though it would help. Sanding would help reduce the amount of soak up, but it's a small building so hit it with Kilz primer stain block, then paint it. The triangle wall, or just a brace as indicated will help greatly, but if you put it back into the interior of the building a stud and rafter, then it won't interfere with your front door opening and framing.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

primered the outside w/ getz2 sealer/stainblocker/primer

1.is one coat of primer suffient?
2.should the inside be primed?

planning the door.

thinking of attaching 2 doors to make a single door.

then use a shed hinge the lenght of door?


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

I'd follow the product guidelines but just off the cuff, one coat would be enough and I'd coat the inside too if you had enough material and the time. The inside won't get the thrashing that the outside will get but it will help to brighten then inside in the absence of lighting and you will be subject to moisture from the air so I'd do it. 

If I understand you.. you're talking about taking two doors and putting them together to form one that will have a single swing? This will put a great deal of strain on your building from the cantilevered weight. I'd go two separate doors with two separate swings that would balance out the weight strain on the structure.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I was planning on slapping 2 inside household doors together (they aren't heavey)

then plan to use a regular door nob w/ a lock.

if I used two indiviale doors how could I lock them?

TB


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

It's looking really awesome there! The doors....Hang them individually as normal (assuming one of them is a slab...i.e. not drilled for a door knob) the door that won't have a locking knob on it, you'll want to put a sliding bolt at the top that goes into the jamb, and one at the bottom if you have something solid to run the bolt in to, such as a piece of pipe pounded into the ground. Then drill your striker into that door to catch the latch of your locking door.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

This would be a lot of extra work w/ two doors.

Did I mention earlier that I added a vertical 4x4 behind the door opening on left side will add a 4x4 to other side also.

I’ve never sean a door w/out a nob hole. Guess I could cover the hole w/ a small piece of metal, remember most of the materials being used are recycled.

I understand securing the nobless door w/ a slider going into a pipe beaten in ground (excellent suggestion)
Can’t understand a slider into a jamb? I only have a rafter ontop, are suggesting to add a header?

I’m anxious to install door, finish floor, paint, secure to ground, nail banding around roof and be done w/ structure.

Then I can start on the shelfs and plan how to hang the other gardening stuff like shovels,rackes, hedge trimmers ect. I'm also thinking of buying a gas powered egder.
Thanks TB


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

TheBrain said:


> This would be a lot of extra work w/ two doors.
> 
> Did I mention earlier that I added a vertical 4x4 behind the door opening on left side will add a 4x4 to other side also.
> 
> ...


By jamb, I just meant the top of the door framing. You can easily fashion a sliding bolt out of just about anything. If I get the chance, I'll show you how I did my double doors on a 3 car garage building that cost me zero. 

You can put your doors together if you wish to too, there's nothing wrong with that method. They are interior doors and lightweight, I just prefer double doors because if you want to just enter your building for something small, you don't have to contend with a huge door and they're less apt to sag over time, since there's little to no sheer on the front of your building and you aren't attached to the house.


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## flbob2002 (Feb 26, 2015)

Dont fort put an air vent to keep the air moving thru your shed. This will keep it from rusting. But the shed looks like it will keep it dry from any weather.






TheBrain said:


> building shed for lawn mower please advice
> 
> I've started w/ three walls, next I plan to put a sheet of plastic under the walls then put concrete pavers under walls and cover the floor w/ pavers.
> 
> ...


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