# Ford 1910



## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

How do I bleed the the fuel system?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

*This is a procedure originally posted by Jerry/MT on the YT Forum. I’ve added a few things, but it’s the best detailed bleeding procedure that I’ve seen.*



*My tractor can be a PITA to get started if I run it out of fuel, or if the filter gets plugged. 

How long has it been since your fuel filter was changed?? Might be a good time to change it.
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Start at the fuel outlet of the tank (inlet to the filter). Shut the tank valve, remove the line at the filter inlet and holding a suitable container to catch the diesel fuel, open the valve. You should have a CONTINUOUS rush/flow of fuel out of the line. If it dribbles or is intermittent, check the fuel cap for a blockage of the fuel vent or the strainer upstream of the valve for clogging. The strainer/screen is attached to the shut-off valve, and is positioned up inside the tank. You will have to drain the tank and pull the valve to clean the screen. 

If you have good fuel flow at that point, reconnect the line and open the bleeder screw at the top of the filter. Turn on the tank valve and wait till you have a steady flow of fuel with no bubbles at the top of the filter, then close the bleeder screw. 

Your pump may have a bleeder screw . If so, open the bleeder screw and crank the engine until fuel streams out with no bubbles, then close it. Otherwise loosen the inlet connection at the pump and purge air at that point. 

Go back and make sure ALL the fittings in the fuel delivery system are tight so they cannot suck air.

Make sure the battery is fully charged. Loosen the fuel fittings at the injectors, either one at a time or all at once. Crank the engine till you see all fuel at the injector fittings and then tighten the fittings. If you do indvidual fittings, the engine will usually start before you get to the last fitting. 

Alternatively, you can "tow-start" it to save wear and tear on your starter. Leave the injector lines cracked open at the injectors at first to purge the lines. Then tighten them up and she should start.

Your injection pump puts out a very small amount of fuel (high pressure/low volume). BE PATIENT. If the lines are totally empty, it takes a lot of cranking to fill them up.*


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

sixbales said:


> *This is a procedure originally posted by Jerry/MT on the YT Forum. I’ve added a few things, but it’s the best detailed bleeding procedure that I’ve seen.*
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you, I will try this.


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

Where would I find a schematic of my injector pump? It's a Diesel Kiki 3 cylinder pump.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

I gather that you are getting fuel to the injection pump, but no fuel out of the injection pump. Is this correct?? Check the kill rod function to be certain it is opening the kill valve on the pump when pushed in.

Hopefully, thepumpguy will read this post and get involved.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

You may not be getting the results your looking for because DKiki changed their name to Zexel..
All you have to do is Google> ford 1910 injection pump..


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Please don't think you can dismantle this pump.. it takes special tools & know-how.
IF you wanna take the side cover off to free up the control rack[most common]
You NEED a hand impact driver.. the kind you hit w/ a hammer..
Those tiny screws are IN THERE TIGHT.!!!!! & they're SOFT.. if you try to use a screwdriver, you'll round them off in a heartbeat.. DONT try it w/ a screwdriver.
I'm not tryin to scare ya.. its just I've been rebuilding them for 30 years & I know what works & "what don't"..


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

If the pump is low on oil, will that hinder the pumping of fuel?


thepumpguysc said:


> Please don't think you can dismantle this pump.. it takes special tools & know-how.
> IF you wanna take the side cover off to free up the control rack[most common]
> You NEED a hand impact driver.. the kind you hit w/ a hammer..
> Those tiny screws are IN THERE TIGHT.!!!!! & they're SOFT.. if you try to use a screwdriver, you'll round them off in a heartbeat.. DONT try it w/ a screwdriver.
> I'm not tryin to scare ya.. its just I've been rebuilding them for 30 years & I know what works & "what don't"..


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Most definitely.. the oil get low, condensation builds up[rust] & the governor gets stuck in the low idle or shut-off position. Its VERY common..
Just adding oil wont solve the issue.. The pump either has to come off & taken to a shop or the side cover has to come off to inspect the control rack movement.


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

What is the cost of rebuilding the pump? Ballpark figure.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

PM sent.. they don't like us talking "business" on the open forum..


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

I am going to try to pull start my 1910 4x4. Am not getting fuel up to the cylinders by cranking and don't want to put much wear on starter and battery. Will I need to loosen up the nuts at the injectors to bleed lines when I am pulling the tractor or will they self bleed while pulling?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Loosening the lines AT the inj. will help get the air out faster..


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

I loosened the lines at the injectors and had my wife pull me around the field today. Started getting a little fuel up to the injectors so I tightened up. I was getting a little black smoke but it quit soon. I undid the lines again and pulled till I started getting a bit more fuel pumping out. Tightened up again and pulled again and it started up. Shut the tractor off and tried to start with the starter. It started right up. I will park it for the night and see if it starts tomorrow with the starter. Yea.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Good job.!!!
what started the whole ordeal?? why did it need to be bled in the 1st place..
maybe we can help prevent it..??


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

thepumpguysc said:


> Good job.!!!
> what started the whole ordeal?? why did it need to be bled in the 1st place..
> maybe we can help prevent it..??


It had been getting harder and harder to start over the last year and it started on 2 cylinders and then the third would kick in. Finally it wouldn't start so I tried to bleed the lines. I probably should of just bought a new battery to start with. I have the front bucket off of it for now and will make sure it starts up this afternoon. I appreciate all the help that I get from everyone. I asked the question about how much pressure I should be getting pushing fuel out the lines and never got an answer. I asked a friend yesterday at the Veterans Memorial and he said that some tractors have a high pressure and some of the smaller tractors lower pressure, which matched what mine was doing. So I thought I would try pulling to start before I pulled the injector pump to have it rebuilt.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Looking back thru your post, I don't see where you asked that question.. only how to bleed..
The answer is>> about 15-25psi..to the injection pump inlet..


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

thepumpguysc said:


> Looking back thru your post, I don't see where you asked that question.. only how to bleed..
> The answer is>> about 15-25psi..to the injection pump inlet..


Thank you for the pressure, looking back, I stated I was getting just spurts of diesel when turning over the engine and asked if that was what I should be getting in the Introduction Forum. I still have to crank it for a while as each cylinder kicks in. I put new glow plugs in last year.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

It sounds as if you still have a fuel supply or quality problem..
Is it gravity fed or is there a lift pump on the machine?
The control rack in the pump may be sticking from lack of oil??


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## William Baucom (Apr 25, 2018)

Gravity feed.


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## Baloo2U (Mar 25, 2019)

Picking up an old thread here. 

Thepumpguysc seems to know these pumps pretty well. 

I have a 1910 that is leaking oil out of the rectangular sheet metal cover on the side held on with 3 screws. 

I don’t know what is behind that cover, and if I take it off am I opening Pandora’s Box. Is there a gasket or o-ring back there that has failed and where can I find a replacement? Also, does the pump on the 1910 share the crankcase oil? 

I just did an in frame rebuild of this motor, crankcase oil was clean and full and now it is dropping with this leak. I thought it was the oil filter mount but today the leak got worse and it is clearly that cover. 

Please advise.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Yes there is a square cut oring that's formed to the opening.. I have the P# in the shop.. I'll get it for you tomorrow.


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## Baloo2U (Mar 25, 2019)

thepumpguysc said:


> Yes there is a square cut oring that's formed to the opening.. I have the P# in the shop.. I'll get it for you tomorrow.


Where can I find said o-ring? 

Also does this pump share the crankcase oil?

Will I be opening pandora’s Box By taking that cover off? 

I know some automatic transmissions have springs and ball bearings etc. I don’t want to lose anything if it’s spring loaded. I read somewhere that there is a governor spring behind there? And to use an impact driver to take those screws out. Any other advice?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

U should use a hand impact to loosen the screws.. they're TIGHT & soft.. they will round off..
The P# for the side cover 3 cyl. oring is>> Zexel/Kiki>> 129155-51761
U can get this or have it ordered from a diesel inj. pump shop or internet.
NOTHING is gonna jump out.. its just a cover..
Good luck w/ the repair.


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## Swamp Dog (Apr 5, 2019)

thepumpguysc said:


> Yes there is a square cut oring that's formed to the opening.. I have the P# in the shop.. I'll get it for you tomorrow.


This is unrelated but I can’t find a way to ask my own question. I have a 1910 that I lost all hydraulic power after changing fluid and filter. Filter won’t fill up. Bad hyd. Pump?


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## Swamp Dog (Apr 5, 2019)

A new to me 1983 Ford 1910 4x4. The hyd. Fluid was soup with hydraulics barely working. I drained by three plugs, changed filter. Now nothing!


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Did you warm the tractor up before dumping the oil? What hydraulic oil did you use to replace the old stuff with?
I wonder how dirty the oil was? Hydraulics can go bad real fast if there is any bit of dirt introduced to the system.


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## Swamp Dog (Apr 5, 2019)

pogobill said:


> Did you warm the tractor up before dumping the oil? What hydraulic oil did you use to replace the old stuff with?
> I wonder how dirty the oil was? Hydraulics can go bad real fast if there is any bit of dirt introduced to the system.


I tried to. I ran it around some. But the hydraulics hardly moved so the only warming came from driving. I used the 303 fluid from tractor supply. The guild was thick, chocolate colored, NASTY! No telling how long since it was changed


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## Swamp Dog (Apr 5, 2019)

Swamp Dog said:


> I tried to. I ran it around some. But the hydraulics hardly moved so the only warming came from driving. I used the 303 fluid from tractor supply. The guild was thick, chocolate colored, NASTY! No telling how long since it was changed


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

OK, this 303 tractor hydraulic fluid is not recommended by any tractor manufacturer in any make or model newer than 1974.
From their website
" *Misapplication may cause severe performance problems. 303 Tractor Hydraulic Fluid has not been recommended by any OEM for model years later than 1974.*"

TSC is actually in a class action law suit over this oil in Missouri! 
You need to read the label and make sure that the oil is a Trans-Hydraulic fluid, and not a universal hydraulic tractor fluid. Confusing, but the first is for newer tractor hydraulics that share a common sump, as the other is for tractor hydraulics that have separate reservoirs.
You need to meet or exceed the Ford specification"M2C134". Look for this spec on the label. 
"*Ford Tractor M2C134B, M2C134C, M2C134D, M2C41B, M2C48B, M2C159B1, M2C159B2*"


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## Swamp Dog (Apr 5, 2019)

pogobill said:


> OK, this 303 tractor hydraulic fluid is not recommended by any tractor manufacturer in any make or model newer than 1974.
> From their website
> " *Misapplication may cause severe performance problems. 303 Tractor Hydraulic Fluid has not been recommended by any OEM for model years later than 1974.*"
> 
> ...


Thanks Pogobill! At this point would it be just a fluid change and drain the new filter? Or replace the filter again?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Not sure what the filter costs, but I'd have a tendency to change it as well. I have two hydraulic filters, and the pair cost me $200.00.


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## Swamp Dog (Apr 5, 2019)

pogobill said:


> Not sure what the filter costs, but I'd have a tendency to change it as well. I have two hydraulic filters, and the pair cost me $200.00.


Nope mine are much cheaper. Thanks. A guy at tractor supply said this was the right fluid for an 83 Ford tractor like mine. I should have checked better myself! Thanks, I’m going to check numbers now..


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Is there any indication on the pail of 303 that says it meets the Ford spec?


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## Swamp Dog (Apr 5, 2019)

pogobill said:


> Is there any indication on the pail of 303 that says it meets the Ford spec?


It says it is for 1974 or older. I asked the tractor supply employee for the proper fluid so I could order it on line (I get discounts through a purchasing group) but it wasn’t the right stuff- after I’ve filled the tractor!! I bought the right stuff today...I hope


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## Swamp Dog (Apr 5, 2019)

Swamp Dog said:


> It says it is for 1974 or older. I asked the tractor supply employee for the proper fluid so I could order it on line (I get discounts through a purchasing group) but it wasn’t the right stuff- after I’ve filled the tractor!! I bought the right stuff today...I hope


I have to get a manual...once I’m assured I can get this thing going and keep it...


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