# Just bought CK2610 134 hours. What maintenance should I do?



## darrendriven

This is my first tractor, so I'm currently reading through the manual to learn about the various controls.

I ordered this filter kit on Amazon and plan to replace all filters.

I also ordered myself a Ryobi grease gun so I can make sure all of my grease fittings are topped off.

Addressing the loose frame bolts with Loctite and marking them with a paint pen to identify future movement.

Is there anything else I should do to prep her for the first use?


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## unsquidly

Sounds like you have a very good plan.....Smart man to look at it as if none of the 50 or 100 hour maintenance was done. Just make sure that what ever oil and hydro fluid you add back meets or exceeds the Kioti specs......

Also, check the oil in the front axel and look at what it says to do for the 50 and 100 hour service.... It is more then likely still under warranty so keep that in mind if something goes wrong....

I think that you will find that to be a dandy little tractor...........


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## darrendriven

unsquidly said:


> ...as if none of the 50 or 100 hour maintenance was done...


The engine oil filter has 50 HOURS written on it... so at least the 50 looks to be completed. Thanks for your input!


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## unsquidly

darrendriven said:


> The engine oil filter has 50 HOURS written on it... so at least the 50 looks to be completed. Thanks for your input!



Should have done both hydro filters at the 50 hour mark also......


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## unsquidly

Does your Kioti have the linked pedal system for the hydro drive?

Also, just a heads up, those seem to be picky about fuel.....They don't seem to tolerate any water in the fuel what so ever......I have had issues with mine and water in the fuel.....have had to drain the fuel filter can in the field a few times to get it to like me......I just started running diesel treat in it year round and have had no more problems...I use summer treat in the warm months and anti-gel in the cold.....


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## darrendriven

I could use recommendations on fluids to order on Amazon if anyone has a favorite.

Thinking that I'll order two of these... look good?








Amazon.com: MOBIL FLUID 424 High Performance Tractor Hydraulic Fluid - 5 Gal Pail : Automotive


Buy MOBIL FLUID 424 High Performance Tractor Hydraulic Fluid - 5 Gal Pail: Hydraulic - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## darrendriven

unsquidly said:


> Does your Kioti have the linked pedal system for the hydro drive?


It looks like this...










...except I think that my parking brake lever is in a different place. Higher up. Hmmm.


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## unsquidly

For oil I use Rotella T5 15w 40 in mine.......

Here is a good video on all that.....


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## unsquidly

darrendriven said:


> It looks like this...
> 
> View attachment 76450
> 
> 
> ...except I think that my parking brake lever is in a different place. Higher up. Hmmm.



Nope.....The linked pedal is going to be a level just to the left of the steering column on the dash part of the tractor.....If you flip it up, it links the throttle to the forward and reverse pedals. This makes it to where you can leave the tractor at idle speed and it will throttle up as you push down the forward or reverse pedal then throttle down as you release it.....Great if you have not ever had a HST drive tractor....


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## darrendriven

unsquidly said:


> Nope.....The linked pedal is going to be a level just to the left of the steering column on the dash part of the tractor.....If you flip it up, it links the throttle to the forward and reverse pedals. This makes it to where you can leave the tractor at idle speed and it will throttle up as you push down the forward or reverse pedal then throttle down as you release it.....Great if you have not ever had a HST drive tractor....


Jeez, yeah. My parking brake lever IS right where that illustration showed it... and there is a green lever near the steering column. Thanks for explaining that to me... I'll have to try that out!


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## unsquidly

Is your brake on the left side?


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## darrendriven

unsquidly said:


> Is your brake on the left side?


No, that's the clutch.


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## darrendriven

unsquidly said:


> For oil I use Rotella T5 15w 40 in mine.......


Synthetic? SHould I go synthetic if I don't know what the previous owners used in it? I thought that you should only use synthetic if you've been using it from day one.


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## unsquidly

T 5 is synthetic blend not full synthetic..........
T 4 is conventional and T 6 is full synthetic


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## SidecarFlip

Think I'd give it a bath. Clean is always easier to work on and not get dirt where it don't belong. I presume you got a manual with it. Start by renewing all the fluids and filters (and checking the air filter for restriction as well) and then follow the recommended service intervals on the manual. Easy-peasy.


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## marc_hanna

For motor oil, I use Amsoil 5w40 signature series. It’s one of the best oils out there. For hydraulic/UTF, I use Klondike arctic or Kubota Super UDT2. All synthetics for me - after spending a small fortune on oil analysis, I’m convinced it’s the only way to go. Amsoil in particular, has an incredible ability to resist oxidation and holds contaminants in suspension for a very long time.

A multigrade UTF will keep those hydraulics moving fast at low temps, and a 5w or 0w oil will ensure easier start-ups and and good flow in the deep cold of winter.

I think the whole argument against switching to synthetic after using conventional oil, is a myth. Synthetics are simply superior all the way around.


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## SidecarFlip

All the above except Amsoil which in my view is overpriced, just like other specialty lubricants like Lucas oil. Far as switching from conventional to synthetic, 99% of what you read is net folklore and phooey, posted by someone who don't know their butt from a hole in the ground.

I switched years ago from plain Rotella 15-40 to Rotella T6 synthetic and same with gear oil and never had any negative issues. All positive such as easier cold starts and better contaminate suspension because I to do oil analysis on all my lubricants. I use Blackstone Labs and I don't feel that a 25 buck fee is exhorbinant.

So long as the lubricants meets or exceeds the API certification in viscosity and the letter designation for your application, you are all good.

I find that the net comments are mostly hot air anyway and read them for entertainment purposes only. The net is a great place for information but at the same time is rife with bad information as well.

Amsoil uses the same petroleum stocks as everyone else but they add their closely guarded 'secret ingredients' to the base stock. Nothing more. Kind of reminds me of K&N filters in a way and I was a K&N stocking dealer at one time.


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## marc_hanna

Amsoil doesn’t have any special technology that everyone else doesn’t, it’s just business model. Kia could build a super car to compete with Bugatti, it’s just not a market they want to play In.

On price, I find it much cheaper than Mobil 1 (for diesel spec, $11CAD versus $18CAD per litre), and it gets about 3x as many hours. I haven’t compared it against Rotella, but I haven’t heard anything bad about it.


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## SidecarFlip

marc_hanna said:


> Amsoil doesn’t have any special technology that everyone else doesn’t, it’s just business model


I disagree with your statement. I take it you have never watched their video with Gale Banks then? They go meticulously through their manufacturing process as well as bottling the product and one section of that video is specifically dedicated to the 'secret ingredients' they add to the base oil stocks. I suggest you watch the video. According to the CEO of Amsoil, they do but then, might just be a snake oil salesman anyway. Don't buy or use the product, far as I'm concerned it's over priced but I suggest you watch the video and then comment. I believe it's on the Banks Engineering play list. Very interesting video to watch. I'm not and never been an additive person other than anti'gel for winter and a biocide for my diesel storage tanks and I use Power Service products for that. Power Service and Bio-Kleen which is a Federally approved microbial biocide.


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## marc_hanna

I just watched the video, it’s a top-notch facility and operation they have, but nothing novel that I haven’t seen before. They don’t discuss their secret ingredients, beyond just calling them secret. The specific chemistry, of course, is proprietary, but I suspect a good chemical engineer could devise something from the ground up that is just as good. Maybe they do have a secret chemical technology, but I think it’s unlikely, and there’s nothing in the video or anywhere else to suggest to me otherwise. In the end, their commitment to quality, and their investment in process technology, is their business model. I think Amsoil’s marketing and business strategy frees up a lot of cash-flow to invest back into the manufacturing process, which in turn, allows them to produce a better product than other more expensive oils.

As far as Power Service goes, i don’t know that it’s any better than anything else in terms of a biocide or antigel. As far as a cetane booster and fuel system lubricant, it’s quite poor. Cetane boosting capability is betrayed by it’s product sheet that must show certain chemical constituents and and approximate % by weight or volume. They simply don’t have enough of the cetane boosting chemicals to achieve their claimed increases at the dose rates. Lubricity has been shown in independent tests, to be mediocre at best. 

Where additives to fuel are concerned, I don’t buy any pre-blended all-in-one products. I buy the individual chemicals by the 5 gallon pail and blend them myself - I get a superior outcome at a fraction the cost.

The most common cetane booster by far, is 2-Ethylhexylnitrate (2-EHN). To get a 10-point raise in cetane number on retail pump fuel, you need to dose at 250:1 v/v (diesel:2-EHN). This has been studied to death and I can send you mountains of literature on it. There are several other cetane boosters also, but cost versus benefit diminishes exponentially. For pretty much all off-the-shelf cetane boosters you can buy at your local auto parts store, the amount you would have to add to a tank to get a meaningful rise in cetane number would be cost prohibitive.


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## SidecarFlip

I do use some '"snake oil' in my diesels in the crankcases. I use Archoil (which is expensive as well) AR 6500 Friction modifier. It contains Nano-Borate which is an excellent cleaner for sludge and deposits and it cured my 7.3 rough idle / hard cold start issues. I've always been a snake oil non believer but last summer I had to pull both valve covers and replace the injector and glo plug harnesses and when I removed the valve covers, the head decks were spotless. In fact, with well over 100,000 miles of hard work (it's a farm truck and usually pulls a tandem axle GN trailer), there was nothing in the way of deposits, You could easily read the catalog numbers on the injectors as well as the see assembly paint marks, Navistar applied to the valve rockers during assembly....; and, when I took the 6K plus Kubota in last tear to have the overhead run, I was there when the tech pulled the valve cover, keep in mind I bought it used so I really have no idea what the previous owner used or how often he changed the lubricants. That was the very first thing I did when I got the unit home was, I dropped the engine oil and filters, dropped the hydraulic oil and filters (looked to me like Hy-Trans and was low and dirty), renewed the air filter (it was loaded with filth, cleaned out the air filter cannister and applied a thin smear of chassis grease to the inside. I replaced the engine oil with Rotella T6 and 4 ounces of AR6500, renewed the hydraulic oil and filters, used my standard Chevron All Weather THC synthetic transmission oil and off ran it for about 3 months before it went to the dealer for it's 'restore'.

When the Kubota tech pulled the valve cover, I was there and at 6K hours plus, just a couple months of AR6500, the valve deck was factory clean and no deposits in the valve cover either. It was so clean, a quick wipe with a shop towel showed nothing. Keep in mind, over 6000 running hours and I have no idea how hard the previous owner ran it or if he maintained it properly either. Being a dairy farm (where it came from), I suspect the previous owner ran it hard and did minimal maintenance. The almost worn out tires attest to that fact in my view.

My Kubota mechanic is now also using AR6500 in his personal tractors, he's a farmer like I am. All I use except bio cide and winter fuel additive. I usually keep around 500 gallons on hand in storage. I like to play the fuel market when possible, it is expensive today. He also pulled the injectors and bench tested them and all were fine as far as pop off pressure and spray pattern and none dripped either. Probably should have renewed the glo plugs but didn't as it cold starts just fine, most of that I credit the Bosch style injection pump for. My sump oil gets changed every fall and the trans every 2 years or when Blackstone tells me the additive package is depleted. My oil is always good to go when I sample it yearly. Both units actually. Spectro Analysis far as I'm concerned is the best way to track additive use. I consider 25 bucks an analysis as cheap insurance versus major engine work from lack of proper lubrication. I do that with all my diesels and always have.


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## SidecarFlip

marc_hanna said:


> I just watched the video, it’s a top-notch facility and operation they have, but nothing novel that I haven’t seen before. They don’t discuss their secret ingredients, beyond just calling them secret. The specific chemistry, of course, is proprietary, but I suspect a good chemical engineer could devise something from the ground up that is just as good. Maybe they do have a secret chemical technology, but I think it’s unlikely, and there’s nothing in the video or anywhere else to suggest to me otherwise. In the end, their commitment to quality, and their investment in process technology, is their business model. I think Amsoil’s marketing and business strategy frees up a lot of cash-flow to invest back into the manufacturing process, which in turn, allows them to produce a better product than other more expensive oils.



Like I said, they are extremely closed mouth about what they are adding to the injection tanks. I'm sure Gale Banks asked off camera and probably didn't get an answer either. Proprietary ingredients are always closely guarded. Could be dumping nothing but base oil stocks in there but I don't believe they are, again, could be wrong. No one except them really knows.

I figured you'd like the video, it's quite informative actually but still don't sway me to use the lubricants. I do fine with Rotella and Chevron and have for years. I buy my lubricants in 55 gallon drums from my jobber as a rule. Same with grease but I buy that in 150 pound open headed pails. Kind of a stickler with grease because of what I do farm wise. I need a synthetic, hi tack grease that won't wipe off in the field easily so I use Lubrication Engineers, Teflon fortified synthetic grease. it's not a cheap date but over the years, I've never had a grease related failure or a plugged up grease fitting.

Not into messy grease cartridges. I have and use an air greaser with a 100 foot grease hose so I bring them up by the shop and grease them. I base my greas quality on how well it sticks to my hands and how hard it is to remove. You get LE grease on you, it has to wear off....lol


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## SidecarFlip

I also happen to use Banks Engineering products on my pickup truck. In all the years I've owned it (since 1997), never had one issue with any of Gale's stuff. I run his full kit plus his turbo charger and his transmission module as well. Like Amsoil, none of it is cheap and my truck don't 'roll coal' either. Just makes good power which is what I need. Owners that 'roll coal' are just wasting fuel. Nothing more.


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## SidecarFlip

marc_hanna said:


> As far as Power Service goes, i don’t know that it’s any better than anything else in terms of a biocide or antige


far as an anti-gel it works for me and their Bio-Kleen carries an MSDS cautionary label on every bottle and I had an algae issue some years back that cost me a bundle in failed fuel system components and ever since I've added Bio-Kleen to my storage diesel and my pickup truck, I've had no algae issues whatsoever. In fact, the dealership I retired from has 2 7000 gallon in ground diesel storage tanks and they use it as well and that was the motivator for me to start dosing my diesel fuel. You don't want to be growing micro organisms in your 14,000 gallon diesel no matter what the cost is. It's nasty, smelly stuff. Been close up and personal with it. Don't need a repeat performance. For me, it works. For them it works too. I'm good with that.


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## RoobyResil

Its says change engine oil and filter every 250 hours , check means look at replace means change


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## SidecarFlip

RoobyResil said:


> Its says change engine oil and filter every 250 hours , check means look at replace means change


My ongoing philosophy about buying any used tractor is change everything no matter how many hours are on it because you have no idea what the previous owner used as far as lubricants are concerned. He might have purchased the cheapest oil from TSC and put it in the crankcase or the cheapest hydraulic oil and dumped that in and I'd change all the filters as well and use OEM filters. "It's false economy and foolish to assume anything. Learned that years ago.

Lubricants are the cheapest stuff you'll ever need to replace. The most expensive is mechanical failure.


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## unsquidly

RoobyResil said:


> Its says change engine oil and filter every 250 hours , check means look at replace means change



What says to change the engine oil and filter every 250 hours?


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## pogobill

Mine says "Every 300 hrs.


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## Tumblindown

If someone wants to use Amsoil, I say 'Go for it'. It's a fine engine oil. But it's got nothing on T6 or M1 or Valvoline Blue Extreme. Exxon spends more money on R&D in a Day than Amsoil will in a year. They also have their pick of the best Chemical Engineers in the world. 

Amsoil started with some guy (Albert J. Amatuzio) in the Air Schwartz re-packaging synthetic Aircraft Oil and selling it with his name as a sort of lead-in with the word 'oil' in it. 

It's good oil but it is nothing super-duper special. Not worth the bother, IMO.

I look at Ferrari, Bugati, Porsche, Ford GT and in none of them do I find Amsoil as factory fill. And the King of Them All, Formula 1 Cars, use Mobil 1. If it's good enough for an engine that made 20,000 RPM in the old days, it's good enough for my little put-put

If I had some Amsoil, I wouldn't hesitate to use it. But, OTOH I wouldn't go 5 minutes out of my way to buy it. No insult intended. It's good oil, it's just more 'boutique' than _useful_, IMHO


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## SidecarFlip

Oil is like mouthwash to me. So long as it meets or exceeds OEM specs and is API rated, I'm good with it. I just happen to use Rotella and Rimula and Spirax. I like Shell products. Don't believe I've ever purchased an Amsoil product and don't plan on it.


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## unsquidly

pogobill said:


> Mine says "Every 300 hrs.



Yours might but I know Kioti manuals don't say every 250 hours........


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## pogobill

unsquidly said:


> Yours might but I know Kioti manuals don't say every 250 hours........


Actually it refers to engine oil only, filter at 600 I believe. When I change my engine oil, I change the filter!


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## unsquidly

The CS and CK models of Kioti are 50 hours for the first one then 100 hours for the next and every 150 hours after that I believe. I might not be correct on the last but I know I am on the first two........


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## darrendriven

Welp, I'm pretty sure I read another topic where someone else managed to break off the bolt that holds the back hoe stabilizer locking plate onto the frame. I swung the back hoe 90 degrees to dump some dirt and then heard a bang-clank. Easy fix at least. Stupid design, though.


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