# MTD YARD MACHINE SPITS GAS plz help!



## ladagosta

13an690g352 mtd yard machine 2002 lawn mower
is spitting gas out the rubber tube. it pops off when i attempt to start it. before this it was leaking gas slowly. I could not find out where it was leaking as it only leaked after turning it off. i replaced the hose that got burnt from gas and heat leaking down which feed gas tp the carberator. also took off the bowl and sprayed wd40 on needle and float to free them up. 
there was gas in the oil so replaced oil and added gas and now i have gas spitting out of the rubber tube that goes up into the air filter. 
the tube pops off so i guess that should be replaced as well..all the rubber and hoses and orings had to be replaced as they were all either burnt or stretched out beyond hope, now i have this issue the mower appears to want to start more but cant due to the gas spitting how would you fix this? also replaced airfilter and pre airfilter replace battery as i ave been having trouble starting up until the fall and figured i was due for a new one it was over 2 years old... 
anyone ever run into this and or know how to resolve the issue thanx in advance would be nice to sit and mow again..
also if anyone can tell me where to find a parts diagram so i can order the proper parts i would appreciate it. some places i have gone to do not show all parts. leaving me clueless as to how to order proper parts needed. again thanx


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## dangeroustoys56

Defintely a carb issue - if its leaking gas into the oil- the float is sticking - time for the carb to come off and get super cleaned . You can get parts for the motor by taking the motor ID numbers with you to a tractor parts place. Most likely it could do with a rebuild kit specially if its an older tractor.

If gas is comming out the breather- then its getting by the valves and going right back into the carb thru the breather .

Another thing you may want to add later is a fuel shut off valve.


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## ladagosta

thank you for your reply.. i will look into a rebuild kit for it then as I have cleaned it as best it can be.. any suggestions as to who i should look to for a rebuild kit.. dont mind if i order online.. would prefer local but seem i get no where just run around and waste time and gas.. thank you again what actually is a rebuild kit going to do that i did not do already?
as i replaced all orings and cleaned it out .. a new float and valve come with the kits? never did this before so i am curious.. usually i have much luck cleaning things up and putting back together never had such loosey luck as i have the past year or so with lawn equip and autos..
and should i just look into a new carb for it.. same thing happened to my mothers craftsman and we order a new carb for hers havent gotten it yet but i can bet it will fix the issue.. i am just not looking forward to replacing my own.. LOL


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## rsmith335

I'll bet your fuel pump is pumping like crazy, there is a sensor in the carb that could be dirty or the seat is bad or needs cleaning that comes in where the fuel bowl nut used to be, now is a sensor and probe.


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## jhngardner367

You might want to check the flywheel timing key,also.Even a little dent on them can change the engine timing enough to make it spit back.It's a common problem with Briggs,and Tcumseh engines.


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## ladagosta

*wow*

ok these are great sugestions.. i am familar with automobiles and like i said never had to do much of anything with a tractor but seems they are making inferior quality in all things these days and now i am faced with actually taking things apart.. and fixing them.. I am a 50 yo female and like i said i can move around older autmobiles.. but these newer makes and models and well tractors.. never had to mess with the engines or carbs.. so i need more details and assistance here.. be greatful really for any walk throughs.. is a rebuild kit better for the carb ..

i am good with fixing with the right directions..the sensor is 40 -50 bucks i looked into that already.. and the rebuild i can get for about 30.. a new carb will run me shy of 100.. so who would do what.. should i buy the parts or can someone walk me through what i should do to clean and correct my problem.. i did think it was progress when the gas didnt flood into the oil the last time i attempted to start it .. but it didnt run so maybe once i get it running it may still flow into the oil chamber.. idk this is new territory for me. but thanks for the ideas and suggestions just not sure what to do first next.. can you all come back and throw a little more help this way ... thanks


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## rsmith335

Female or male, dosen't mater, I respect anybody who will dig in and get their hands a little dirty. Do you have a dealer close, tell them what your issue is and I bet they will share info. with you. Have you tried the internet for your spefic model? I'm a male, and you know we never ask directions. I take things apart very carefully and if I find dirt or corosion, I go to cleaning and tracing where it came from. Are you comfortable with mechanics? There are some great fix it your self manules out there for dummies, I have several for different equipment. I AM NOT ASHAMED OF IT!


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## ladagosta

*update*

ok now where i am at with this is:
after taking the bowl apart and cleaning and replacing there is no more leak of gas.. but replacing the oil since it was contaminated with gas the tractor would not start I realized i hadnt changed the plug since we bought it so after replacing that it sounds like it wants to start no more gas spitting out anywhere either 
but will not start it turns freely and fast and oil is again contaminated with gas..
what needs to be done next to get this running? so close.. also prior to this all happening the tractor ran fine.. just lost gas when it was parked and always empty when i went to use it again plus hard starting and battery always dead since i replaced that and put new plug in..and now that the leak is gone what next? thank you everyone for your help.. getting close here i know we are..


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## ladagosta

to rsmith335 there is no one close by i have worked on autos since i was 17 and had to rip a transmission out.. but tractors i seldom ever have to take apart we just maintain them as you are supposed to and never have problems.. seems this year all of our tractors have major carb problems.. cheap crap they sell today has something to do with that..but hey i guess i am not too old to learn at least i got the leak resolved.


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## jhngardner367

This may sound silly,but,have you checked to see if there's water in the fuel?disconnect the fuel line at the carb,and run some of the fuel into a clear,clean bottle.Wait 3-4 minutes,and check for separation/layers.The water will be on the bottom,fuel on top.Either way,make sure the sparkplugs are new(.030gap).Lay the sparkplug(s)onthe engine,crank it over,and look fora blue spark.


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## ladagosta

yes there is no water in the gas

great spark
I am thinking now that i have great spark and new battery and have resolved the gas leak that if i change the oil and put fresh in again that I may have a running tractor once again just havent had time to mess with it since this began.. was ready to retire it until next season.. but as little time as it would take to change the oil once more i am thinking I will give that a try once more to see if we have it all in check and see if we get lift off..'

so tomorrow in and around the mess of the day I am going to give it one last crack and if this works i will come back here and let everyone know.. even if not I will post that it was not successful..
I mean the last time i turned it over it seemed that if the oil had not been diluted with gas that there may have been a chance that it would have kicked in and been running.. 
but i was so disgusted I didnt want to bother 
but now the question is still unanswered and rolling around in my mind so i am going to rule it out and rest easier knowing one way or the other..thanks everyone for the suggestions and i will do one last thing and post the results.. hopefully a sucess but at least others will know in the future in case they run into the same mess..
oh and just so you know a mechanic friend of mine believes it may be the flywheel timing key as well had me remove the plug wire and crank while recording the sound .. then said is sounded as though it was that issue .. that was before i realized the plugs had not been changed since we bought it in 02.. so i went and got new plug and put it in which changed the whole result.. no more sluggish and sputtery almost not turning.. this time it was turning fast and sounded almost as if it would turn over.. but when i checked the oil there was gas in it again .. so maybe if i change the oil and put fresh in ,, well i hope anyways worht a try only 3.00 and a few minutes to check.. so I am going to pray that this will resolve it.. thanks jhngardner367 for sticking with the thread..


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## dangeroustoys56

Gas is still over flowing the carb - most mine would do that when they sit overnight because the gas seeps by the needle valve inside the carb - a remedy i use ( till i get rebuild kits for the fleet) is a simple manual fuel shutoff valve - when im done mowing- i close the valve, run the carb out of gas and park it when it stalls out - that way i know theres no gas to leak by . When the tractor is running- it should use the gas incomming .

Id still suggest a carb rebuild kit. 

Its not too bad to clean a carb actually - take your time and work slow and itll go easy.

First i suggest (important) - take pictures and or drawings of the carb and linkages- itll be useful when it goes back together.

2 clean towels - one for dirty parts/disassembly and one for clean parts/assembly on a large flat surface - remove the carb, set it on the one rag - from top to bottom ( or vice versa ) take the carb apart and lay out in order of disasembly - clean each piece- getting all the lil ports - either a good spray carb cleaner or carb soak will work.

As each piece is cleaned, move in the same order over to the clean rag - be careful of gaskets , as these might need replacing - check and make sure the float doesnt have and fuel in it ( youd hear it shaking it) - its not supposed to and will need replacement ( separate from carb kit) .

In order again start reassembly and put it back onto the tractor - since its a newer one ( you mentioned a 'sensor' on the float bowl ) thats a antifire solenoid ( which also could be bad) causing the issues - try cleaning it with carb claeaner and make sure it moves freely . It also wont have any sort of idle /fuel adjustment either.


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## ladagosta

well replacing oil did not help start issue.. and gas just went right back in to oil .. i ordered the sensor and a throttle guide spring as that had snapped off early this season and It wasnt idling steady as a result when i had it running for 30 minutes 2 weeks ago so it needs it anyways. gonna detach carb and reclean once i get the sensor in mail and hope this will at least get it running then i know i can afford to buy a new carb next season and be done with the whole mess or do a rebuild kit which I dont have time for and sooner just replace the carb, I have heard so many people not having sucess with rebuilds.. but hey it is a matter of who is doing what .. always.. i will update later again until solution is found


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## wjjones

rsmith335 said:


> I'll bet your fuel pump is pumping like crazy, there is a sensor in the carb that could be dirty or the seat is bad or needs cleaning that comes in where the fuel bowl nut used to be, now is a sensor and probe.



Or the float could have a hole in it causing it to fill with fuel, and sink.. which would cause the carb to keep loading fuel.. Just another idea to check...


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## dangeroustoys56

I have a 99 murray hydro with a 17HP twin- i cleaned the carb multiple times and it would barely run - i put a $20 carb kit in it and it runs smooth and strong - most of the reason i believe mine ran so badly was from the worn out gaskets.


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