# New to me LT1000



## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

Last Saturday I acquired this for nothing. When I got it home and did a quick inspection I noticed the carb and intake manifold were not there. Can someone show a picture of the parts required to complete this portion.
I found an ebay seller with the complete intake/carb but it is quite costly and there are a lot of other parts not needed.
I can find an intake manifold and carb on-line but I don't know what else I need. The sheet metal assembly that is near the carb is still there. The manual parts breakdown does not show the parts assembled.
I have done some initial tests. The starter does turn the engine over quickly and a compression test shows 75 PSI. There is spark and I purchased a new plug but have not installed it yet. My next test is to use a little starting fluid squirted into the open intake port to see if it will fire.
Since it was free, I still don't know if the trans is good, the blade shafts are OK.
Don't want to invest to much.
Thanks,
wings515


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum. I'd call the seller and see if he has any parts laying around that he fogot to throw into a box for you.


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum. I'd call the seller and see if he has any parts laying around that he fogot to throw into a box for you.


I went back to the seller the day I picked it up. He said to come back later the next week. I went yesterday and he gave me some story, so I blew it off.
I purchased a new plug and some starter fluid. Popped the OHV cover and checked the movement of the push rods relative to the piston stroke. All seemed OK so I primed the open intake port with some fluid and gave it a crank. Initally it spit out the fluid from the port but then it started to run. This showed me it was worth the investment in parts. I did find and purchase the parts from the ebay seller. They will be shipped on Monday. I'll see how it goes when it gets installed.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Craftsman carried the LT1000 line since about the late 80's. It's the Ford Escort of lawn mowers, nothing fancy, but very reliable (until Briggs came along with the Intek engine). They were actually made by several different manufacturers (7 that I know of). You can generally tell the OEM by the 1st three digits of the model number if it was made for the U.S. market

917 = Husqvarna (AYP, Electrolux, Roper, AYP as Husqvarna bought them out)

247 = MTD

502 = Murray

*Model year*-
By Serial Number: The first two numbers are the month. The third and fourth numbers are the day. The fifth and sixth numbers are the year.


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

I received the parts yesterday. I need to make an intake manifold gasket, that's all that is missing. I do have a question. There are two linkages attached to the carb. One I think should go to the throttle control. The other is for the choke but it has a very small spring wrapped around the linkage. Can someone explain how this is installed or post a picture of the installation of these two linkages? This purchase included a lot of "other" stuff. when I get this all running I'll post my extra stuff for sale.

Thanks,
Dan Kahn


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

You've got it backwards... The linkage with the "surge spring" goes on the throttle. 

I find it easiest to mount the linkage rods to governor arm and choke control first. Then starting with the choke rod, tilt the carb toward the rod and hook your choke "Z-bend". Still holding that tilt, hook the throttle rod Z-bend. Tilt the carb vertical and slid it on the mounting studs with the rods attached. I use a small set of hemostats to clamp the end of the surge spring (it always wants to roll) and thread it into that tiny hole.


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

Thanks for the reply. I think I got it but I'm a picture type assembler. Still have confusion of how the choke linkage operates. Also the exploded view of the controls from the manual calls the linkage with the spring the "Governor Link". Now I'm really confused. The linkage that is bent in a "U" is called the Choke Linkage. Is this mated with the Throttle linkage?
Thanks for the assembly procedure. Where does the 'other' end of the spring attach?
Regards,
Dan Kahn


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

You didn't mention what OEM and model engine you're dealing with, otherwise I could probably send you a picture.

The "other end" of the small surge spring usually mounts in the same hole as the throttle control rod on the governor arm("Governor Linkage").

Post a picture of what you're dealing with (along with OEM and Model#) and I'll try to help you figure it out. I'm heading to the shop now to finish rebuilding/re-mounting a CH25 Kohler on an antique Exmark, so it may be this evening before I can get back to you. Depends on how much it pisses me off.....


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

Thanks again for your support. The engine is a B&S 310707 0137-E1.
Supposed to be a 16.5 HP single cylinder. Looks like a Rube Goldberg setup for the carb. I made a gasket from material I used during my resto of a 39 Plymouth Pickup engine. That was a lot easier to assemble than this.
Regards,
Dan Kahn


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

When you say the choke rod is "bent in a U", do you mean something like this?


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

Good Moring,
Yes the picture you sent is the "U" shaped rod. In the one picture the "new" intake/carb has this rod and the rod with the spring as received. The other picture has the rods taken from the LT1000. It appears the owner had problems removing the rod with the spring and bent it up badly. I removed the fan shroud to see if there was a vane for the governor, I did not see one. Maybe this is missing or not used on this engine. The setup of the purchased intake/carb has the "U" rod Z bend in the throttle control. I can not figure out where the choke connects. According to the parts breakdown, the "U" is for the choke.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. The Right front tire needs a tube now since it will not hold air. I'm wondering if this is getting to be a money pit!
I still don't know if the blade spindles are OK and if the trans is functional. Also needs a battery.

Thanks again,
Dan Kahn


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

That's a "Uni-choke" control plate (one cable for both throttle and choke). Those linkage rods are bent up pretty bad, but they'll still work. Since you're a visual learner, here's a You Tube video that should get you going.....


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

Thank you so much. That did the trick, I understand fully the operation. Actually, it is all installed now. Just going to drain the old gas and put in some fresh. I'll take the suggestion of the YouTube poster and manually choke the engine with just a little throttle. That's tomorrows chore.
Again thank you for all your help.

Regards,
Dan Kahn


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

Well I put it all together and it ran with gas but needed full choke to contiinue. I purchased a new carb for $19 and installed it today. It started easily, after adjusting the mixture it would idle witout hunting. Now it smokes so bad, (burning oil) I am about to sell it for parts. I have invested almost $100 in the intake manifold, carb, plug, oil, and a tire tube and now this. Is it worth it to use the engine cleaner? Can't seem to remember the name, someting like Ocean.
Any opinion would be helpful.
Regards,
Dan K


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

I remebered the namr, it is Sea Foam. At $7 is it worth it?
Dan K


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I use a little Seafoam in my gas from time to time to keep things clean..... along with fuel stabilizer. Not sure if any of it works, but my stuff seems to run well. You've changed the carb, so no need to clean it with Seafoam. You may be over fueling?!? Did you run it very long?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

It probably hasn't run in years.... It's going to smoke until the rings seat again. Drop some Seafoam in it and get it hot a few times. You'll probably see the smoke start to dissipate. If not, run straight 40w oil in it.

I always put little expectation into a mower that someone decides to give me for "free". If it gets through a mowing season, worry about it then


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

Thanks for the encouragement. While running I checked to see if the lights were working. According to the wiring diagram, there is no regulator and the lights come on during running. I am going to check to see if the alternator coil has continuity, but can someone tell me where the diode is located. If it is open I have lots of others I can replace it with. Seems it might be buried in a wiring harness but rather than cutting all the sleeving, I'd like to start somewhere near the location.
Regards,
Dan K.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Go to "Briggs Alternator ID Chart" in the manuals section of this Forum. It will show you where the diode is located


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## wings515 (Apr 25, 2020)

W on the switch. Moving it to that ell not knowing the Craftsman, I checked the output voltage while running at a fast speed and it was not charging. I was about to shut it OFF when I noticed there is a Bulb position. Moving the switch to that position and the lights came on and the Ammeter showed Charging. So at least that works. After running for about 20 minutes after putting in the Seafoam, it still was belching smoke. Much more at idle. Listening to the engine, it sounds like there is a rod knock. This is getting to the point of no return. I think I'm going to cut my losses and see if I can sell it as is and try and get back some of my investment.
Thank you everyone for your help.
Regards,
Dan K.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Yep, been there and done that *A LOT*.... That's why any more when customers offer me lawnmowers for "free" I'm more than a little leery and usually say:

" Why don't *YOU* just take it to the scrap yard instead of acting like you're doing me a favor by letting me donate my time to haul it there for you"?


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