# IH 240



## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

First, let me explain that I am a NOOOBIE with tractors. I have the manuals-Shop, Maintenance, and Operators.
I have searched the web for schematics of the rear wheel of a IH 240. Wheel fell off??? and I can't see how it is supposed to be installed. Seems like there was nothing holding the wheel except the grooved part of the axle matching the groove in the wheel.
Pardon my ignorance, I am trying to learn as I go.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The 240 used two different styles of axle and hub.

First parts diagram example is the keyed axle for the row crop versions with adjustable rear wheel width.

It relies on a key in the slot to drive the hub that mounts the wheel. Key is readily available from Case/IH dealer or any bearing shop, just measure the width of the keyway.










Hub type example, and relies on the U bolts to clamp it to the key and axle. This style hub is scarce as hen's teeth, but the U bolts that clamp it to the axle can be found on Ebay. The 400 series clamps should also fit, and can be had at your Case/IH dealer.









The second example is found in slide IMG_0827.JPEG here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0Bws-jRh34b3iN1JJUnlaNU4yNEE

The hub on the standard utility tractor is secured by splines and a bolt & washer in the end of the axle. The original hub is cast and fails. Steiner Tractor carries a new steel hub. The bolts and washers can be had at Case/IH, you will need the bolt size as it is doubtful they have a parts manual.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

GREAT write-up RC as usual..
Rob, your gonna have to figure out WHAT failed using RC's diagrams..
Did the shaft come out? did it snap off?? Did the hub crack & break?
Figure THAT OUT & someone {RC} can probably tell you how it goes back together??
OR lead you to a service/repair manual..
Sorry for your bad luck.. & WELCOME to the forum..


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

RC Wells said:


> The 240 used two different styles of axle and hub.
> 
> First parts diagram example is the keyed axle for the row crop versions with adjustable rear wheel width.
> 
> ...


Thank you! This will help tons. I will check it this afternoon and get back. I will take a few pictures as well.


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

Tractor seems to run well, starts right up. Hopefully this is not a catastrophic event...lol


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

This is what I am dealing with. The one is still on the tractor, you can see the condition of the other. There is NO bolt or washer on either wheel hub, should there be? there is a hole for it?? Any contacts in the Murfreesboro TN area? The fellow that sold me the tractor doesn't seem to be able to answer his phone or text...


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Center hole in axle is threaded. May be stripped, if so get an appropriately sized bottom tap and rethread it. If the old bolts are snapped off, use a reverse twist bit and try to extract the broken chunks. Then chase the threads and install new grade 8 bolt, lock washer, with a very thick keeper washer in each side Case IH still has the bolts and washers, as this design was used on tractors for years and dealers kept a bin of them on hand for guys that snapped them off.

If the hub is sloppy on the axle you likely need to replace the hub and check the axle for excessive wear on the splines. If both hub and splines are worn, replace both parts. The hubs get slop and pound the bolt and snap it off, then dropping the wheel.

If the tractor is intended for yard art, and not used, you can use LocTite for repairing splines to tighten up the slop. Do not try to use it with LocTite, as it will just walk out, hammer the keeper until it breaks, and the hub will fall off again.


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

I have scoured the internet and can't find the nut and washer for my rear axle. I even have the part numbers:
washer-369390R1
bolt-179881 or 180173


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Rob, welcome to the tractor forum.

The bolt is a 1/2"-13 TPI x 1" long, grade 5, which can be obtained at a hardware store. The washer looks to be very thick. Try Messicks Parts Hotline 877-260-3528.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If the hub is not tick tight to the spline, the grade 5 bolt will elongate and break as the hub walks the splines and knocks against it. If the hub and spline are tight a grade 5 will be suitable.

If your Case dealer does not have the "WASHER, IH retainer rear wheel hub," measure the inner diameter of outside flange of the hub - inside the cup where the flat on the hub mates with the axle end - and go to a Fastenal distributor. They will be able to get a hardened steel washer approximately 5/16" thick.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Rob, here's a parts diagram of your axle. They do not illustrate the bolt, but it is in the parts list.


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

I have tried everyplace I can find. What would be a model that used the same set up? Maybe I can backdoor find it that way. For a part that was set out in bins it is sure rare today...


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

Fastenal 
0.562"ID x 3"OD x 0.25"Thick Galvanized Dock Washer
1/2"-13 x 1" Zinc Finish SAE J429 Grade 5 Hex Flange Bolt
I ordered this today, once I get the wheel back on hopefully this will keep it on.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

It will as long as there is zero play between the hub and axle.


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

Got the wheels fixed. Fellow locally who works on tractors thank goodness. Now the battery is draining. While tire was off, brand new battery dead. Would not jump (12 volt to 12 volt) off. Got a click and then a buzz and then nothing.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Given the age of the tractor it is likely a stuck voltage regulator if the key was not left in the on position.


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

The key/ignition is not there. I charged up the battery and it started right up. I took the lead off the battery when I stopped thinking I must have a drain from the wiring.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If the tractor has been hot wired to skip the key, the power to the voltage regulator will be on anytime the battery is connected. The simple solution is to disconnect the battery when not in use, the correct fix is to properly install the key switch which is safer in the long run to avoid a wiring fire from a shorted voltage regulator, and the old mechanical regulators will eventually short.

Your repair manual will have the needed wiring diagram.


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

Thank you for all the help. For now I will take the lead off when I am finished. Once it dries out here (Middle Tennessee) I can start looking at how to make it better. Right now I'm just tickled it will start and run...
Again, thanks folks. Nice to know there are resources out there for us newbies to learn from.


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## dj54 (May 14, 2009)

If you have a local NAPA, they have a heavy duty 2 pole ignition switch, that fits perfect for around $16.00. It will have 2 keys with it. I just replaced the one on my 240 last Fall. I ordered the oem switch for it through Case/IH. It was around $25.00, but only had 1 key, and no nut to tighten it into the dash. The one from NAPA was a complete switch.


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## Rob Hooper (Feb 16, 2018)

I will check with them. Thanks


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## Clydesdalerider (Jan 15, 2018)

Rob Hooper said:


> First, let me explain that I am a NOOOBIE with tractors. I have the manuals-Shop, Maintenance, and Operators.
> I have searched the web for schematics of the rear wheel of a IH 240. Wheel fell off??? and I can't see how it is supposed to be installed. Seems like there was nothing holding the wheel except the grooved part of the axle matching the groove in the wheel.
> Pardon my ignorance, I am trying to learn as I go.


Hi I have a IH 240 Utility and need the Engine manual....I can not find anything but the rear repair manual and owners operation thanks........


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