# Hydraulic Fluid



## possom813

I've found that the NAPA 65-205 90wt is what everyone recommends for a 56 model 35 tractor.

Where are all the drain plugs located? Where do I fill it back up? Is the hyd fluid for the transmission, pto, 3 point lift, and rear axle assembly? 

Is there anywhere else that I need to put new fluid, besides the engine?

We've got everything done on the hard stuff, now just figuring out where the other stuff goes...

Also, the man at the farm store said that I could drain the old hydraulic fluid out with the tractor on a trailer and put the plugs back in and put a gallon or so of diesel in into the fill hole and pull it a few miles on the trailer and drain the diesel out and then add new hydraulic fluid to clean the gunk out.

Is that ok to do, or will it harm the tractor?


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## Jerry/MT

possom813 said:


> I've found that the NAPA 65-205 90wt is what everyone recommends for a 56 model 35 tractor.
> 
> Where are all the drain plugs located? Where do I fill it back up? Is the hyd fluid for the transmission, pto, 3 point lift, and rear axle assembly?
> 
> Is there anywhere else that I need to put new fluid, besides the engine?
> 
> We've got everything done on the hard stuff, now just figuring out where the other stuff goes...
> 
> Also, the man at the farm store said that I could drain the old hydraulic fluid out with the tractor on a trailer and put the plugs back in and put a gallon or so of diesel in into the fill hole and pull it a few miles on the trailer and drain the diesel out and then add new hydraulic fluid to clean the gunk out.
> 
> Is that ok to do, or will it harm the tractor?


I think there are three drain plugs underneath the tranny and the rear axle. it one common sump and it takes a while to drain. The fill hole is on the transmission cover. It wouldn't harm anything to do what the guy told you to do but a better way would be to remove the pto shaft (after you drain the fluid out)and the side plates and using a garden sprayer, spray diesel in the sumps and then hand clean the sludge out of the sumps. Capture the diesel, decant the sludge off and respray it repeatedly until you get it clean. Whatever you do, don't run the hydraulics with just diesel in the sump. If you want to clean the pump, remove it and take it apart and clean it. By having the side plates and the prto shaft out of it you can really see into it and clean it well. Let it drain overnight then reinstall the pto and the side plates and refill it. It will take some time to refil all the sumps so let the fluid equalize before you run it.


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## possom813

We changed it, coulda used the advice about straight diesel a little sooner 

No damage, but the clutch quit working until we drained out the diesel and refilled it with gl1.

Lesson learned, now it's working pretty decent, still have to get the carb fine tuned.


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## Jerry/MT

possom813 said:


> We changed it, coulda used the advice about straight diesel a little sooner
> 
> No damage, but the clutch quit working until we drained out the diesel and refilled it with gl1.
> 
> Lesson learned, now it's working pretty decent, still have to get the carb fine tuned.


The clutch has nothing to do with the hydraulic fluid. You should still be able to move the tractor but the hydraulics probably will not work with just a little bit of diesel in the sump.


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## possom813

I don't know about that. The hydraulic fluid goes into the transmission for the entire tractor, right on top of the gears.

There are only two drain holes, one directly under the clutch pedal and the other is under the pto lever.

When I put in the diesel, it moved forward and I took it out of gear to put it in reverse and it wouldn't go.


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## Jerry/MT

possom813 said:


> I don't know about that. The hydraulic fluid goes into the transmission for the entire tractor, right on top of the gears.
> 
> There are only two drain holes, one directly under the clutch pedal and the other is under the pto lever.
> 
> When I put in the diesel, it moved forward and I took it out of gear to put it in reverse and it wouldn't go.


So what does that have to do with clutch operation? 

The clutch is located on the flywheel which is immediately behind the engine block. The transmission is located about 8-10 inches behind the clutch mechanism and there is no fluid in the bell housing between the engine and the tranny. The only fluid in that compartment is either rear main seal leakage from the engine or input shaft seal leakage from the transmission. 
The only connection between the clutch disk and the gearbox is through the input shaft and it's a mechanical connection that has no dependence on whether there is fluid it transmission or not.


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