# 03 Massey Ferguson 1533 burning up fuel shut off solenoids



## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

hey everyone, need help. I have 03 MF 1533 compact tractor that is giving me fits.
came out to get on tractor and wouldn't start. traced the problem to the fuel solenoid shutoff. It was melted in the back where the wires come out. ordered a new part after the sticker shock of the dealer for almost nothing. Dealer wanted $225, I got on ebay for $18. put it on. within 20 minutes, it burned out just like the last one. same location. same everything. ordered another solenoid. talked to MF dealer and they said replace the pull sensor on the front left of the tractor. so I did that first. got that part from autozone as they are same specs. put the new solenoid back on and within 5 minutes of being on it became VERY hot. I unplugged it. I've heard about thermistors and all of that but I haven't seen where MF has those. Am I missing something? The only thing is that the alternator switch (whatever that does) beside the PTO is not working and is broken. I unplugged it from the wiring harness to prevent short. that part is $50. could that be the problem or something else? I've checked ground. getting 12.4 volts to solenoid. .3 amps like specs say. HELP!!


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Start the tractor and bring it up to PTO rated engine RPM. Read the voltage at the positive lead of the fuel solenoid (needle through the insulation). Check both AC and DC. If it is greater than 13.8 VDC at operating RPM, or is getting AC bleed, shut down and check the condition of the battery. If it is good, the problem will be in the voltage regulation.

Depending on the manufacture version, these have two diodes that convert the AC to DC. The part number is: 3703614M1, Quantity 2, DIODE.

They are up under the control panel, and your dealer can help you locate the components.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

There are 2 versions of that little screw-in solenoid.. 12 & 24v.. U have to MAKE SURE your putting in the correct one..
If u give me the pump # off the tag, I can tell u the correct P#..
If your putting in a 12v on a 24v system, its gonna melt..
If u get tired of messing w/ it..
Take the guts out of your old one & use the manual shut off lever on the pump.


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## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

I know for sure it is a 12 volt system. 
I am ordering the diodes and chasing the rabbit but i will check the current while running. It just gets so dang hot. Three wires two white that are spliced and a black which i know is ground. 
The part i put on is part number :
SA03ES69T
Other numbers on the solenoid are:
1503ES-12A5U5S
17594-6001-4

Check eBay because that’s where i got the part. I used other forums and found this cross referenced and is supposed to work. Remember now the original part melted and blew the plastic end cap off so i know it’s an electrical problem somewhere.


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## Spanky671 (Oct 24, 2018)

Michael Lowery said:


> I know for sure it is a 12 volt system.
> I am ordering the diodes and chasing the rabbit but i will check the current while running. It just gets so dang hot. Three wires two white that are spliced and a black which i know is ground.
> The part i put on is part number :
> SA03ES69T
> ...


I have a 3032E John Deere and I have the same issue going on now. I’ve gone through 4 fuel cut off solenoids as of this morning . I have replaced the battery,checked the ground, relays, I’m lost as well. I hope someone can help us both.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

When I searched MF1533 I come up w/ a CAV DPA inj. pump w/ a screw in solenoid..
BUT your #'s come up w/ a Kubota bolt in solenoid.. If THATS IT & its a 3 wire solenoid.. Do u know how it works?? It has a PULL circuit & a HOLD circuit..
HI AMP PULL & LOW AMP HOLD.. controlled by switching relays under the hood..
IF your solenoids are burning up, its not switching to the low amp circuit..


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## Spanky671 (Oct 24, 2018)

thepumpguysc said:


> When I searched MF1533 I come up w/ a CAV DPA inj. pump w/ a screw in solenoid..
> BUT your #'s come up w/ a Kubota bolt in solenoid.. If THATS IT & its a 3 wire solenoid.. Do u know how it works?? It has a PULL circuit & a HOLD circuit..
> HI AMP PULL & LOW AMP HOLD.. controlled by switching relays under the hood..
> IF your solenoids are burning up, its not switching to the low amp circuit..


I did not mean to hijack his post. But mine is a 3 wire. I check my relays and they seem to check good. On my John Deere what should I check ? Mine started after hooking the battery charger up. Thanks


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## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

Spanky


Spanky671 said:


> I did not mean to hijack his post. But mine is a 3 wire. I check my relays and they seem to check good. On my John Deere what should I check ? Mine started after hooking the battery charger up. Thanks


, check for a thermistor behind the fuse panel. It should be yellow and inline. Will be soldered. That’s what I’ve seen reading for the John Deere models.


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## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

thepumpguysc said:


> When I searched MF1533 I come up w/ a CAV DPA inj. pump w/ a screw in solenoid..
> BUT your #'s come up w/ a Kubota bolt in solenoid.. If THATS IT & its a 3 wire solenoid.. Do u know how it works?? It has a PULL circuit & a HOLD circuit..
> HI AMP PULL & LOW AMP HOLD.. controlled by switching relays under the hood..
> IF your solenoids are burning up, its not switching to the low amp circuit..



That’s what i think too. Someone above here said it is probably two diodes causing the issue. Ordering them and replacing to make sure.


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## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

thepumpguysc said:


> When I searched MF1533 I come up w/ a CAV DPA inj. pump w/ a screw in solenoid..
> BUT your #'s come up w/ a Kubota bolt in solenoid.. If THATS IT & its a 3 wire solenoid.. Do u know how it works?? It has a PULL circuit & a HOLD circuit..
> HI AMP PULL & LOW AMP HOLD.. controlled by switching relays under the hood..
> IF your solenoids are burning up, its not switching to the low amp circuit..



It looks exactly like what came out of there. The ones i searched for came up screw in too. But the one i pulled off is bolt on. There are 6 relays under the hood of mine. They are all the exact same except for one. So i have no idea which one it will be. Gonna be a challenge tracing wires.


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## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

Ok. Yesterday i got to work on my tractor again. I ordered the two small black diodes and replaced them under the dash and also replaced the pto push button switch. The solenoid is still getting hot as fire and i decided to unplug it before it melted yet another one. 
I checked for ac/dc bleedover and i didn’t get any that i could tell. 
Anyone got any ideas?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

I don't know your partic. machine but I can tell u how the sol. works>>
The BLACK WIRE is GROUND -
The WHITE WIRE is your PULL IN voltage, HI AMP 12v {prob. off the starter}
The RED WIRE is the HOLD voltage, LOW AMP 12v
The amps are switched after the key is let go & the engine running.. they're switched via a relay somewhere with the rest of the relays for your engine..
My suggestion would be, with the engine running, probe the WHITE & BLACK WIRES.. there should be NO VOLTAGE at the solenoid.. IF THERE IS, u have a bad/stuck relay.
Probe the BLACK & RED WIRE WHILE RUNNING, should be 12v.
Sorry but I cant tell u WHERE the relays are.. I use a sewing pin to pierce the wires, or use them to probe UP IN the back side of the connector, then u have enough room to clip on a tester meter..
Good luck & BE SURE to tell us what u find. Good luck.. TPG


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## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

Thanks for your reply. Both wires are pulling .3 amps. The red and white wire are spliced together about a foot from the connector. Only the white wire leads up to the relay in the front. And then split from the relay to the battery and two smaller wires lead up to the dash and thereabout. 

The only thing it could possibly be is the battery. It’s at 12.5 volts. 

Do you think it could be the key switch malfunctioning? Like not releasing voltage when it’s out of the starting position?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Did u check VOLTAGE at each wire while its running??
Spliced together?? THAT doesn't sound right to me?? but you'd have to get someone else to verify that.. HOW in the world is it supposed to switch over from hi to low if they're tied together??
Does it look like a "factory splice" or a guy down the street splice?? Lol
Have u owned it 2nd hand or new?? Has this always been a problem?


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## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

It is factory. Wiring diagrams I’ve seen show it that way as well. It’s a dang mystery.
That’s why I’m so lost and confused.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Only u can determine if the key switch is bad.{meter}
1 more thing "I" can think of> Is the solenoid adjusted properly? {installed properly}
Its the screw in type w/ the big nut on it??
The way I do it is> start the engine.. screw the sol. in until the engine shuts off & tighten down the nut.. Mitsubishi has a LONG drawn out method w/ measure this & that..
"maybe" its not set right?? double check it.. unplug it, back it out afew turns, start the engine & with it still unplugged.. slowly screw it back in.. when it shuts off, stop & lock it down.. is it IN THE SAME PLACE AS BEFORE??
I do know they get hot.. but not melting hot..


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## Ian Jefferson (Jul 13, 2019)

I was having similar problems with my 1540 (turbocharged 1533). I was lucky to have a wiring diagram at hand and used this forum to good advantage. The factory 1503-SOL Woodward solenoid I had on my 2010 tractor has a built in timer. So the pull coil is only energized for a short time. That solenoid is $CDN 285 or so or $US220. The 1503ES-12A5U5S solenoid that Michael listed does not have this timer circuit and is widely available on eBay and Amazon for $15-$50. As it turns out MF must have switched something in 2011 because I came across a wiring harness part#6258743M91 that I got from my local MF dealer. That harness breaks out the pull coil wire (white in my case) and connects it to the glow plug line. So the solenoid is only pulling with the high current pull coil while the glow plugs are on. If you can get the connectors you could make this harness up yourself fairly easily for a lot less cost than the MF harness. I bought the harness because little was certain and I took a chance on a $16 solenoid. 

Testing pre install this all does what was expected. If you energize the hold coil the solenoid will not retract but give it a push and it will stay retracted. Turning the key to the glow plug setting instantly pulls the solenoid in.

I've only run for 1/2 hour so far but no sign of any over heating. I got my solenoid for $16 or so from a US shipper on eBay.

I seen no reason why this strategy would not work for other tractors with these overly complicated solenoids.

Two other items: My problems started with intermittent starting. It seemed I could start if I left a battery charger on my machine for an hour after a start failure. I suspect the pull coil had failed a long time ago and the hold coil was strong enough under ideal circumstances to pull the solenoid. Finally it failed permanently at a rather inconvenient time. Removing the solenoid allowed me to start and sticking my finger in the hole allowed me to shut down. :-( I lament the loss of a manual fuel shutoff control!

The 1503ES-12A5U5S solenoid is not a mechanical exact fit for my machine. The body of the solenoid extends a few mm more into the injector pump than the factory original, far enough that the release will touch the body. The solenoid pins end at the same place though. My start is a bit different than it used to be with a slight high RPM (1000 RPM briefly) surge just after start so I'm assuming the injector release interference may have caused this. Factory body is around 12mm and the 1503ES-12A5U5S body is around 15mm.

I hope this post helps explain what is going on with burning up solenoids and how to economically replace them. Thanks goes to the Larry B's brand of diesel solenoids for documenting this approach. www dot larryBs dot com


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## tim martin (Jul 7, 2020)

Michael Lowery said:


> hey everyone, need help. I have 03 MF 1533 compact tractor that is giving me fits.
> came out to get on tractor and wouldn't start. traced the problem to the fuel solenoid shutoff. It was melted in the back where the wires come out. ordered a new part after the sticker shock of the dealer for almost nothing. Dealer wanted $225, I got on ebay for $18. put it on. within 20 minutes, it burned out just like the last one. same location. same everything. ordered another solenoid. talked to MF dealer and they said replace the pull sensor on the front left of the tractor. so I did that first. got that part from autozone as they are same specs. put the new solenoid back on and within 5 minutes of being on it became VERY hot. I unplugged it. I've heard about thermistors and all of that but I haven't seen where MF has those. Am I missing something? The only thing is that the alternator switch (whatever that does) beside the PTO is not working and is broken. I unplugged it from the wiring harness to prevent short. that part is $50. could that be the problem or something else? I've checked ground. getting 12.4 volts to solenoid. .3 amps like specs say. HELP!!


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## tim martin (Jul 7, 2020)

I have same 1533 Massey 2008 or 2009 I just ordered a fuel solenoid for my tractor long story short some had a problem with wiring they also sent me a wiring harness to solve the solenoid burning out problem harness 70$ gonna install soon


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## tim martin (Jul 7, 2020)

Michael Lowery said:


> I know for sure it is a 12 volt system.
> I am ordering the diodes and chasing the rabbit but i will check the current while running. It just gets so dang hot. Three wires two white that are spliced and a black which i know is ground.
> The part i put on is part number :
> SA03ES69T
> ...


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## tim martin (Jul 7, 2020)

Massey had wiring problem with some tractors they make a wiring harness to solve the solenoid problem ask your dealer


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## Michael Lowery (Oct 22, 2018)

just to follow up...I got the wiring harness from massey...problem solved. glad I went with the cheap solenoid.


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