# Ford 3000 ASC (Auxiliary Service Control) question



## Chefsandron (Mar 9, 2021)

Hello everybody,

New to this forum, I kick off with my first question. I have a 1972 Ford 3000 diesel with an original Ford ASC to supply remote hydraulics. In all the years I have this tractor, this feature has never been used.
Now, I'm starting to have problems with the 3P lift, and I suspect the hydraulic pump. I have bought all the relevant Ford manuals and these describe a procedure to test the pump pressure with a gauge and some hose connected to the bleed screw on the pump. So far, I think I understand what needs to be done, but...

The service manual specifies that to test the pump pressure in this manner, the knob on the ASC has to be pulled out, so that hydraulic pressure is not directed to the 3P lift but to the remote hydraulics connection, which should be unused/closed/capped for this test.

BUT, the knob on my ASC cannot be pulled. It turns and when pulled comes out a fraction of a millimeter, but that's it. It feels like something is frozen solid inside. The original plastic knob is long gone, a previous owner replaced it with a nut and washer, which might indicate that even then it didn't move too easily 

I have disconnected the elbow on top of the ASC, there is some oil there, but whatever I try pulling that wretched knob/washer, it doesn't budge and no oil comes out of the remote hydraulics connection.

So, my question is, can something be done to remedy this, and if yes, what? Can this ASC thingy be disassembled? Must it be replaced? I have searched all over but I seem to be the only person on the Internet having this problem 

I really hope someone can give me a hint... thanks in advance!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Chefsandron said:


> Hello everybody,
> 
> New to this forum, I kick off with my first question. I have a 1972 Ford 3000 diesel with an original Ford ASC to supply remote hydraulics. In all the years I have this tractor, this feature has never been used.
> Now, I'm starting to have problems with the 3P lift, and I suspect the hydraulic pump. I have bought all the relevant Ford manuals and these describe a procedure to test the pump pressure with a gauge and some hose connected to the bleed screw on the pump. So far, I think I understand what needs to be done, but...
> ...


Hi Chefsandron, and welcome to the forum.

Take look at this diagram:





(3000 - SERIES) - 3 CYL TRACTOR (1/65-12/74) (05G01) - SELECTOR VALVE, ACCESSORY, ALL TRACTORS New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com




The valve spool, which you are trying to pull out, has detents where the steel ball (#2) is supposed to lock into. There might be a problem with the ball or spring (#3) that does not allow the ball to move downwards when you pull. There might be a rust problem or the spool is bent, someone forced it into the housing and now it is stuck. The spool on my 4000 (same gadget) was fully out when I bought the tractor, and could not be pushed fully in. It has a front end loader and the spool had, probably, been fully out most of the time. Since there is not much room for a boot, the protruding spool had been kicked and stepped on, and got bent. I manage to straighten the spool, but I really should have renewed it, there can be cracks in it.

I suggest you remove the four screws (bolts) that holds the plate and deal with the problem on a workbench.
The set screw, #4 (Allen head, Insex, Unbrako...), holds the spring and ball. It is easily done to lose some of them, so be aware. When these three parts are out, you should be able to pull the spool out.

I have no experience from dealing with Histoparts, but they are Dutch, and the prices are not bad.

Renew the o-rings and put a boot and knob on the spool:





External services repair kit. Ford 1000 series - Histoparts







histoparts.com





If the internals look very bad, consider a new valve:





External services valve block, Ford - Histoparts


Ford: 2000, 2100, 2110, 2120, 2150, 2300, 2310, 2600, 2610, 2810, 2910, 3000, 3055, 3100, 3110, 3120, 3150, 3230, 3300, 3310, 333, 3330, 3400, 3430, 3500, 3550, 3600, 3610, 3900, 3910, 3930, 4000, 4100, 4110, 4130, 4140, 4200, 4330, 4340, 4400, 4500, 4600, 4610, 4630, 4830, 5000, 5030, 5100...




histoparts.com




O-ring kit:





Seal Kit, Cover plate, external service block - Histoparts


2000, 2100, 2110, 2120, 2150, 2300, 231, 2310, 2600, 2610, 2810, 2910, 3000, 3055, 3100, 3110, 3120, 3150, 3230, 3300, 3310, 3330, 3430, 3500, 3550, 3600, 3610, 3900, 3910, 3930, 4000, 4100, 4110, 4130, 4140, 4200, 4330, 4340, 4400, 4410, 4500, 4600, 4610, 4630, 4830, 5030, 76309 pc ring set...




histoparts.com


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## Chefsandron (Mar 9, 2021)

Hi Hacke,

Thanks a lot for your well-informed and very useful reply. It is very much appreciated.

Today I have taken off the ASC unit and removed the set screw you mentioned. It was quite difficult to loosen up due to corrosion. The spring behind it was reduced to mainly rusty dust. I have succeeded in removing the remains of the spring by carefully screwing in a 4,5 mm metal screw, the threads took out the pieces of spring beautifully.

However, the ball remains in there, firmly stuck. I'll leave everything overnight soaking in penetrating oil and try again tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I can try to boil it in vinegar as a last resort. 

If nothing works i'll buy a new one, thanks for the reference to histoparts, looks like a good address and I can discuss with them in Dutch, always easier in one's mother tongue.

I'll post again when I have some results.

Kind regards, Jos / Chefsandron


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

You can remove the plug at the end of the barrel, and with a brass rod, slightly tap the end of the spool. Several light, but firm, taps usually works better than excessive violence. Alternate with tapping the other end.

When the ball is out, flush the orifices and push the spool backwards out through the opening where the plug was. That way the spool's sealing surfaces will not pass any remaining rust and dirt.


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## Chefsandron (Mar 9, 2021)

Hi Hacke,

Thanks very much. In the mean time I have been able to get the spool out, before I received your last message. 
After having soaked in penetrating oil overnight and blowing out with compressed air a lot of the rust and dirt came out already. I then this morning clamped the threaded end of the spool in a padded vice and gently tapped the housing, the spool came out relatively easily, and it looks undamaged. Cleaned everything thoroughly and found an old spring somewhere that fit. 

For the moment, I leave this on the workbench, and will be ordering an external services repair kit, hoping that this will include a new O-ring for the spool as well. I can then put everything together again and go back to my original problem, the oil pump. 

Thanks again for all your help and I will post any progress here.

Kind regards, Jos / Chefsandron


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