# stating issue



## RCM952 (Aug 15, 2019)

Have a Farmtrac 360DTC, battery checks12.73 volts, getting loud buzzing sound from glo relay, replaced but still getting the buzz but not as loud, tractor will not turn over. I'm not a mechanic and have no means to get tractor to shop, any help would be appreciated.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum RCM952. Glad you stopped by for assistance. I'm sure we can get you up and running.
A little more information may be of help to us. By the sounds of it, the glow plugs are probably working. 
Does the tractor make any sounds when you try to start it? Clicking perhaps? 
Could be a bad battery connection at the starter for instance, that may make a click sound then go silent.
Or could be a stuck starter..
Does that tractor not make any sound at all when trying to start it?
It could be a faulty or loose seat safety switch, the transmission isn't in neutral, the park brake is not applied or depressed or perhaps the PTO lever is engaged.


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## RCM952 (Aug 15, 2019)

Thanks for responding. I turn the key and I get a loud buzzing noise, I felt the glow relay part # 40007069 and it quieted down when I nudged it, turn the half way to warm plugs and the relay buzzes loudly and after 10 seconds, stops the buzzing, turn the key to start and the relay appears to rapidly click but engine does not turn over. Battery has 12.7 volts 


pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum RCM952. Glad you stopped by for assistance. I'm sure we can get you up and running.
> A little more information may be of help to us. By the sounds of it, the glow plugs are probably working.
> Does the tractor make any sounds when you try to start it? Clicking perhaps?
> Could be a bad battery connection at the starter for instance, that may make a click sound then go silent.
> ...


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Sure sounds like a poor connection somewhere. Maybe a bad battery cable, cable end, ground cable bolt, stud/nut on starter solenoid, something like that. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it works good.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

I agree, sounds like a bad connection. Start by removing and cleaning thoroughly both ends from battery. The ground is especially famous for this. After cleaning and retightening let us know what happens.The clicking you hear may be the solenoid which is not getting good voltage. Sounds like a minor problem. We don't like being left in suspense so let us know if it works!


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## RCM952 (Aug 15, 2019)

Fedup said:


> Sure sounds like a poor connection somewhere. Maybe a bad battery cable, cable end, ground cable bolt, stud/nut on starter solenoid, something like that. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it works good.


Cleaned ground cable at battery and chassis connection, positive lead goes directly to starter and after checking when I attached the cable to the starter I heard clicking up near instrument panel, ended after a short time, assumed this is something setting itself because of new current. So I apparently have juice from battery to starter, still does same with no turnover. What would I be missing? I agree with you that it is probably fairly simple, but I may be also. Thanks guys for your response!


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## RCM952 (Aug 15, 2019)

bbirder said:


> I agree, sounds like a bad connection. Start by removing and cleaning thoroughly both ends from battery. The ground is especially famous for this. After cleaning and retightening let us know what happens.The clicking you hear may be the solenoid which is not getting good voltage. Sounds like a minor problem. We don't like being left in suspense so let us know if it works!


please see my reply to FEDUP. Thanks for your interest


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Can u take a picture of the starter area and upload?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

It's concerning that you're hearing a clicking of any sort just by connecting the battery cable. That indicates a path for current flow even when all switches are off. A sure fire way for battery drain while the tractor is not in use.

That being said...Most starter solenoids have two large studs to carry the cranking load and at least one smaller post to which comes the "start signal" from the key switch/start button, etc. If you can access that smaller post (sometimes that requires removing a "Safety Sam" plastic cover) and flash that post with 12 volts via a jumper of some sort the starter SHOULD attempt to engage and turn the engine. If it does, that would indicate the battery, starter, and heavy cable circuit are doing the job. The problem must be elsewhere. Wiring, key switch, safety circuit, start relay, etc. A bit of common sense applies here. Make sure the shifters are in neutral.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

This should be what your starter looks like.
1st---Make sure the tractor is in neutral.
2nd--Make sure again that the tractor is in neutral.
3rd--turn key on to running position.
4th---using screwdriver or large nail jump connection from the terminal on top of the battery cable connections to the large terminal that has positive cable from battery. This should turn over engine and start it if you have fuel going to engine.










If that works, it could be a start relay or safety switch preventing it from starting with key.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Can you jump the starter at the solenoid to see if the starter will actually turn? If it does, perhaps you need to look at the safety switch angle.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I take too long to type!


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Fedup and I must have been typing at same time. I'm voting for starter relay or fusible link.
Not sure about clicking sound. Could it be fuel pump pressuring up.


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## RCM952 (Aug 15, 2019)

bbirder said:


> This should be what your starter looks like.
> 1st---Make sure the tractor is in neutral.
> 2nd--Make sure again that the tractor is in neutral.
> 3rd--turn key on to running position.
> ...


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## RCM952 (Aug 15, 2019)

I made the connection with screw driver but I nothing, I noticed that with key off I try the screwdriver and I got a faint noise and spark??? yes with key off, I have not noticed a drain on battery as I said I'm getting a reading 12.63 now , as I have been dinking with for a few days, was 12.75


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

*If you are sure that you are jumping terminal to connection of cable from battery* and not the other side going to starter, it seems like your problem is the solenoid. Did you hear it kick in? That's the number 13 in the pic I sent you. I've taken them apart and cleaned and salvaged them. Inside you will find a large set of contacts. If they are worn you can flip them sometimes. If you can't do it any starter or alternator shop shpuld be able to fix you up. I'd pull the starter off and bench test it first thing


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

On second thought, before pulling starter, try either changing battery or jumping it from a known good source like your automobile and try starting. A battery can show volts but not have enough amps to crank if a cell is weak or damaged. Perhaps you just need a new battery. When is the last time it ran.


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## RCM952 (Aug 15, 2019)

bbirder said:


> On second thought, before pulling starter, try either changing battery or jumping it from a known good source like your automobile and try starting. A battery can show volts but not have enough amps to crank if a cell is weak or damaged. Perhaps you just need a new battery. When is the last time it ran.


Thanks I'll give it a try. was running and starting fine up until a couple days ago. I had an issue a few months ago with bad ground, replaced the battery at that time and had alternator checked, all was good. Fixed the grounding issue and replaced the cable for positive side of battery to solenoid. I will try as you have said, I did not hear anything happen.


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## RCM952 (Aug 15, 2019)

bbirder said:


> On second thought, before pulling starter, try either changing battery or jumping it from a known good source like your automobile and try starting. A battery can show volts but not have enough amps to crank if a cell is weak or damaged. Perhaps you just need a new battery. When is the last time it ran.


I did as you suggested and the tractor started! I jumped it! I had charged the battery to 12.9 volts, no start. I jumped it after waiting a few minutes it started and the loud buzzing was quieter when I turned the key to warm up plugs, started right up. checked voltage as it ran and was at 14.25 volts, so alternator is working. Battery is not but 3 or 4 months old. Thanks for input, would there be something electrically that would cause a battery to go bad like this, I gave this tractor to my son, it was used, but seems like he continues to have this problem every year?


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

They are making some of these batteries cheap these days. If you are purchasing the cheapest one that fits your battery compartment, it may not have enough cranking amps. A diesel requires more amps than a gasoline engine. They may warranty it but I would make sure you have 600 to 700 cranking amps on your next one.
Don't be surprised about overlooking the battery as the cause. Sometimes the best mechanics keep tripping over the wrench they need every time they go to the toolbox and never find it. Lol. Glad you got it running.

Tell your son to make sure he turns off all lights or other electrical equipment before killing the engine and turn the key off. I have a grandson that kept leaving the hazard blinkers on my tractor on when he put my tractor away. To used to these new cars that shut everything down for when you turn the key. I was always the one wanting to use it when the battery was dead.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

They make a small hydrometer for batteries, about 1/2" diameter, called a charge check. Good for testing individual cells in a battery. A 12v battery should show 2v per cell. The hydrometer is simple with 4 balls that represent level of charge. If a cell does not float 3 balls, it is on its way out if the other cells are floating all 4. I have seen new battery's with a bad or weak cell. Autozone got pissed when I asked to do a cell check. They said if I popped a.cap, I had bought the battery. Bull. There are more than a dozen battery shops in town and I am the customer. I always carry the little tester, 4" long, when battery shopping and will not take a battery unless all cells read the same.


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## JRWM61 (Jun 17, 2021)

I have problem with my Farmtrac 360DTC. Running fine for months with no starting issues. One day used tractor for about 30 min. of light work moved hay bale from field to barn. I shut off, returned within an hour, tractor have not started since. When I turn key on I can hear loud clicks from starter but engine will not crank.

Battery voltage fine, in fact new 700 crank amps 12 volts. No ground or corrosion issues. 

Attempted to jumpstart with powerbooster and truck did not start. Also attempted use screwdriver to "kick start". Large sparks and loud clicks, did not start.

Read that there is several safety switches on the 360 DTC. First one to check is under the seat, others underneath tractor. 

I can not detect any under the seat, only manuel I have found is for parts. Found only one Farmtrac 360 DTC started assembly at an LS parts dealership cost is $1900. Before I fork over that amount of money does anyone have any other possible solution.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

I have a philosophy about batteries. I never buy a battery that has dust on the top of it. Wet charged batteries begin their lifespan when the electrolyte is added so the longer they sit idle on a shelf, the shorter time they stay viable. A dusty battery is an OLD battery. 2. Always buy any battery from a volume dealer that turns them over regularly.. 3. Always buy and install a new battery with the highest CCA that will fit on the battery tray with the proper terminal location.

I always buy my starting batteries from a local truck dealership, they turn them over quickly. I use Group 31's with 1100 CCA which is the largest one that fits my battery tray. Been buying Delphi starting batteries (what the truck place sells). Brand don't matter really, age does.

As a rule I consider starting batteries to be a consumable item so I change them out every 5 years. I cannot afford a 'no start' scenario when I'm farming. Downtime costs big money.

Lots of talk about deep cycle versus standard versus AGM. I use the old standby flooded cell. Been fine for me for over a decade now. Keep the terminals clean and corrosion free. Same with all the connections, including the frame ground. I use internal tooth lock washers on my connections. The 'teeth' on the lock washer bite into the cable end and the joining part, insuring a good current path.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Ed Williams said:


> They make a small hydrometer for batteries, about 1/2" diameter, called a charge check. Good for testing individual cells in a battery. A 12v battery should show 2v per cell. The hydrometer is simple with 4 balls that represent level of charge. If a cell does not float 3 balls, it is on its way out if the other cells are floating all 4. I have seen new battery's with a bad or weak cell. Autozone got pissed when I asked to do a cell check. They said if I popped a.cap, I had bought the battery. Bull. There are more than a dozen battery shops in town and I am the customer. I always carry the little tester, 4" long, when battery shopping and will not take a battery unless all cells read the same.


Good tip. If a cell is below 2 volts and the rest are ok, the others will 'try' to recover the bad one and that kills a battery, even when new.

Of course that only works with a flooded cell battery.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

SidecarFlip said:


> I have a philosophy about batteries. I never buy a battery that has dust on the top of it. Wet charged batteries begin their lifespan when the electrolyte is added so the longer they sit idle on a shelf, the shorter time they stay viable. A dusty battery is an OLD battery. 2. Always buy any battery from a volume dealer that turns them over regularly.. 3. Always buy and install a new battery with the highest CCA that will fit on the battery tray with the proper terminal location.
> 
> I always buy my starting batteries from a local truck dealership, they turn them over quickly. I use Group 31's with 1100 CCA which is the largest one that fits my battery tray. Been buying Delphi starting batteries (what the truck place sells). Brand don't matter really, age does.
> 
> ...


Very sound advice. Much appreciated. I usually get mine at the local Walmart as they have a very high turnover and use Exide as supplier. Never see. any dust on the common sizes.


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