# Zetor 4320 Stumped Starting



## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

My Zetor 4320 has been having trouble starting. At first I could jiggle the key while pressing the start button and after a few tries it would fire up. But it got worse, so I put a new ignition on it. Same thing. I replaced the solenoid. No change. Had the battery checked. Battery is good and fully charged. Removed the starter and had it tested. Starter is good. I reinstalled it; still won't turn over. It just clicks. I put a new ground terminal on the battery. Same thing. Thinking it could still be the ground, I just connected a jumper cable from the ground terminal on the battery to the starter chassis. Still won't start. CLICK CLICK CLICK


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Try bypassing your transmission neutral safety switch. Does it have a PTO safety switch, or seat switch, or any other safety switches?


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

I will check. But would it still make clicking noises at the solenoid if a safety
switch was open?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Well, sometimes the old worn-out safety switches make poor contact and yield the clicking starter solenoid. On my old Ford tractor, I used to 'jiggle' the shift lever with the key in the crank position, to get it to actuate the starter solenoid after numerous clicks. Ultimately bypassed the saferty switch.....no more problems.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Some of the Zetor tractors use the European bullet type fuses in the panel under the steering wheel. If the fuse gets corrosion on the contacts of the fuse and fuse block, the starting solenoid will not fully engage.


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

Would that switch be under the floorboard below the stick?


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

sixbales said:


> Well, sometimes the old worn-out safety switches make poor contact and yield the clicking starter solenoid. On my old Ford tractor, I used to 'jiggle' the shift lever with the key in the crank position, to get it to actuate the starter solenoid after numerous clicks. Ultimately bypassed the saferty switch.....no more problems.


I took all the fuses out, cleaned them and replaced. Still the same. One fuse was blown. I will see if I can find more.


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## rhino (Jan 9, 2017)

Did you replace the starter button? Try a remote starter button.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Turn on all the lights, and attempt to start it. Get a click and the lights get real dim or go out it is a bad battery cable. On Zetors with the original cables it is usually corrosion between the copper cable and the brass battery terminal clamp, or the ground cable attachment to the engine block.

If you get the lights out condition, try turning the key to the run position with the tractor in neutral, and then use a heavy gauge jumper cable from the battery negative terminal to ground, and another from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid positive terminal, jump the solenoid actuation terminal, and see if that cranks it over. If it does, unhook the jumper cable from the battery ground and repeat. That will lead you to the failed cable.


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

I tried the jumper cable to the ground and the positive to the positive. She still won't crank.
I removed the whole ground-wire assembly. Took the insulated wire from the battery compartment and the woven copper one bolted to the block, degreased them and polished all the terminals on a grinder with a wire wheel till they shined like new money. Reinstalled and torqued them down tight. Still the same. Now, when I turn in the key and push the start button, it clicks one time and all the dash lights go out, dead, won't click anymore, then maybe 30 seconds later the lights just come back on and it's good for one click again. I've tried everything I can think of.

About the starter button, I removed it, opened it up and brushed the contacts til they were shiny and reassembled. I even shorted the two wires to test it that way in case it was the starter button. Still no crank. The battery has been tested and reads 12.69 volts, starter has been tested, new solenoid, ground cable freshened up and reinstalled, new terminal clamps on battery, new ignition switch, fuses are good, clutch safety switch is good. Is there a voltage regulator on these tractors? Could that be it?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

You keep saying the battery is good.. but have you tested the voltage AT THE STARTER?
Go get a 5.00 volt meter from the parts store.. put the pos+ on the hot on the starter & neg- to the engine block & have someone turn the key.. a bat can read 12-13v but when you turn the key it'll drop to 4v.. hence the lites dimming/going out. click, click, click..


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

I agree with thepumpguysc. 

You removed the positive battery cable clamp from the battery and directly jumped from the battery to the positive terminal on the starter solenoid with a heavy duty (not some light gauge quicky auto parts elcheapo) jumper cable, and it clicks once and conks out. You will have bypassed the manual battery switch by doing that, so that is out of the equation. That means the battery is not supporting the load.


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

Ok, I put tester at the starter. Voltage dropped from 12.66 to 5.96volts. I'm going to get a new battery. Specs for my tractor say it needs a 950cca battery. If I get a 1000cca or 1100cca is that too much?


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Not as long as the battery fits.


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

I bought a 1050 CCA battery, installed it and it wouldn't even click. Ran a direct jumper from the positive to positive and it engaged the starter, tried to turn over, but was too weak. Brand new battery. I have it on charge now. The new battery is dated FEB2018, but if it's a good battery, shouldn't it hold charge on the shelf?


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Lead acid batteries generally have a notice on them to charge for 24 hours on a tapering charger before first use. I would exchange it just the same, as using a battery with low voltage on a heavy draw will result in the plates shedding their material and warping. Shortens battery life rather dramatically. Hopefully you did not buy a WalMart special, as they are very poor quality in the first place.


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

It's a ''Carquest'' battery from advance auto parts, $197


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

Charged all night and left it on trickle charge all day, battery is reading 13.07V . Installed the battery a few minutes ago, same as yesterday.


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## rhino (Jan 9, 2017)

You said that you cleaned the contacts for the negative ground cable. Is the cable grounded to tin work or tractor frame? I always ran the ground cable back to the starter mounting bolt.


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

Got it cranked! It was the positive battery cable disconnect switch. I never encountered a switch that went out gradually but I guess at first it was making contact after several tries as the switch heated up. Then, at the end, it was barely making contact since lights would come on then go out when the starter button was pushed. Anyway, she fires up quick and strong now with that new battery!


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## Guest (Jul 17, 2018)

My napa store will not sell a battery more than 2 months old.....


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## Guest (Jul 17, 2018)

awesome!


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## Gary Ostendorf (Jul 16, 2018)

MillstoneFarm said:


> My Zetor 4320 has been having trouble starting. At first I could jiggle the key while pressing the start button and after a few tries it would fire up. But it got worse, so I put a new ignition on it. Same thing. I replaced the solenoid. No change. Had the battery checked. Battery is good and fully charged. Removed the starter and had it tested. Starter is good. I reinstalled it; still won't turn over. It just clicks. I put a new ground terminal on the battery. Same thing. Thinking it could still be the ground, I just connected a jumper cable from the ground terminal on the battery to the starter chassis. Still won't start. CLICK CLICK CLICK


Once in a while my Ferguson does the same thing. I do know my starter is about shot and is not worth rebuilding. A few taps on the stater motor with a hammer and I am ready to go. You may want to check your starter.


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## MillstoneFarm (Mar 8, 2017)

Evidently the switch, the previous owner installed, was only designed to handle about 125 amps. I just ordered one which is rated for a 1250 amp surge. Maybe it will be awhile before this problem comes up again. Thanks for the help!


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