# Ford 4000 gas



## lunky55 (Feb 11, 2011)

I have a 1972 4000 gas. I've had an ongoing problem with not getting fuel at times. I have an air gap at the top of the sediment bowl, sometimes. All the time, lately. 
At times it has ran fine. In warm weather-it would run for10 to 30 minutes, then sputter, pop then die. Wouldn't restart. Next day, it would star up fine. In cold weather, it would run fine-no problem. Currently, I can't get it to run much at all. Any ideas? Thanks


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Welcome to the forum Lunky! I suspect the fuel pump is the problem if it has one, but you might be sure that all fuel line connections are tight including the deiment bowl, and the inline filter, if equipped, is clean and dry. Could be icing up in the inline filter. Lastly, it could be something in the tank getting sucked up into the fuel stem pick up. Been there done that! Do you keep the tank full year round, especially in the winter? A partially full fuel tank in the cold weather will give you condensation, which can freeze. Might run a bottle of Iso through the system. Good luck!


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## Fordfarm (Dec 27, 2005)

Mine did that and I replaced the coil, condenser, and points. Problem solved.


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## Jerry/MT (Feb 11, 2010)

lunky55 said:


> I have a 1972 4000 gas. I've had an ongoing problem with not getting fuel at times. I have an air gap at the top of the sediment bowl, sometimes. All the time, lately.
> At times it has ran fine. In warm weather-it would run for10 to 30 minutes, then sputter, pop then die. Wouldn't restart. Next day, it would star up fine. In cold weather, it would run fine-no problem. Currently, I can't get it to run much at all. Any ideas? Thanks


Your problem isn't necessarily fuel related. It could be ignition related. Here's how to sort it out.

If your carb has a drain plug on the fuel bowl, open the tank valve fully and remove the plug ,holding a suitable container below the carb. You have have CONTINUOUS stream of fuel coming out for as long as you leave the drain open. If the flow dribbles or is intermittent, you have a problem with the fuel delivery. Work backwards fromthe carburetor and open every connection to see if you have CONTINOUS fuel flow at that point. Look for kinked lines, loose connections or obstruction in the lines. If you get to the sediment bowl and the flow is still low, then the fuel valve or the filter in the sediment bowl are clogged or the fuel vent s clogged.

If you have good fuel flow to the carb, Run the engine til it quits again and immediately get off and test the sprk. Pull the center lead from the distributor cap, hold it near a good ground and try a start. You should have a FAT, BLUISH-WHITE SPARK, the color of lightning. If you don't, feel the coil. If it feels hot AND you have a 12v system you may have 6Vv coil that's overheating. If you have a VOM, check the coil primary resisitance and if its' ~1.6 ohms, then it's a 6 Vcoil and it's overheated and interally shorted. The tar like insulation will cool off and it will restart only to short out again. The fix is to put a resistor in series with the coil to give a total resistance of ~3.2 ohms or to buy a real 12v coil that has an internal resisitance of ~3.2 ohms. If the coil is good, run a jumper wire from the non grounded terminal on the battery to the battery terminal on the coil. Now try a start and see if t runs for awhile. If it does, there is high resisitance in the primary circuit from the battery to the coil. It could be the key switch so bypass it with your jumper and see if it now runs ok. If it does, replace the key switch.

if you have good fuel flow ahead of the the bowl drain, poor flow at the bowl drain and the spark is good (FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE), then the float valve in the carb is plugged.


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