# Stuck key in mower deck spindle.



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

Hello all. I need to strip down the mower spindle on this machine to remake the rusted deck. I've taken the belt pulley off, but can't shift the key from the shaft. I've tried vice grips, and tried to get a small screwdriver under the end of the key; no luck. I'm reluctant to try heat for fear of making things worse


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I'd give it a good soaking with a good penetrating oil. Once you've let the oil do it's work, it use a hammer and small chisel or punch to tap the key from side to side being careful not to smack it so hard that you bust something. Just light tapping may allow the penetrating oil to seep in deeper and help loosen the key. Keep it soaking in oil as per the directions on the can, could take a day or so.


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

pogobill said:


> I'd give it a good soaking with a good penetrating oil. Once you've let the oil do it's work, it use a hammer and small chisel or punch to tap the key from side to side being careful not to smack it so hard that you bust something. Just light tapping may allow the penetrating oil to seep in deeper and help loosen the key. Keep it soaking in oil as per the directions on the can, could take a day or so.


Sounds good advice. I'll start working that way now.


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Just don't beat so hard as to damage the spindle!


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It is a Woodruff key. Chamfer the edges slightly with a small file and tap on the ends radially:


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

Hacke said:


> It is a Woodruff key. Chamfer the edges slightly with a small file and tap on the ends radially:


Excellent. It came out very well with that method. The Woodruff keys I've encountered in the past were soft metal, some kind of alloy. No doubt in a lighter duty application.







Is the clue in the length of the keyway? Thinking now, I guess if it was normal key steel, the keyway would run right to the end of the shaft? Anyway, it's out, and I'm grateful for the helpful comments. Should I now be able to drive the shaft down with a block of wood and a hammer?


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The main cause for using a Woodruff key is the the machining costs. You just need a mill (think of a sawblade) that you sink into the shaft to a certain depth, and you are done. There are more things to consider when you mill a slot.

Keys can be used instead of shear pins, they brake before something more expensive. I am not sure what is the situation for you. I suggest that you get an original spare part and do not put the old one back.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Oh, I forgot the shaft:

To drive the shaft out I think you will do better with a punch in the center hole in the shaft. Clean the shaft first. Best is if you can support the bearing inner race from the underside. I suppose that is not possible here, but if you get a new bearing for the reassembly, it does not matter if the bearing gets harmed by the blows.


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

OK, point taken about the key. Am I right in thinking the bearings #20 and #35 are a press fit onto the shaft? If so, I can see the top bearing sits on a shoulder, the lower one not. If I'm successful in driving the shaft down, it would leave the top bearing in place, while the lower bearing may wholly come away. I bought this machine cheap as a spare mower, knowing the condition of the deck (badly perforated). I'd rather not add to much cost to the job if possible, but it seems I have to take a chance on the bearings. I've had no luck at all removing bolts #23 due to difficult access, so can't really get much support under the lower race. Come to think of it, wasting #23 bolts would be a simple way to gain some access by removing the cutter disk.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Try first without removing the cutter disc from the spindle. If you put the whole assembly on the floor, the cutter disc will be at a distance from the floor?
If you then give the shaft a whack, it should come loose.

If that is too much violence for the deck, remove the disc.
Are there more, not shown, parts under the disc, that restricts your access to the bolts and nuts?


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

No more parts, no. I set the deck on blocks, one either side of the cutter disc for better support and that did the trick; knocked out fairly readily. The deck alone didn't give enough support as you'll see in the pic.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Ron Young said:


> ...
> The deck alone didn't give enough support as you'll see in the pic.
> View attachment 53097


Yes, it is a bit crispy. So, now it it is grinder and welder time, or do you have a spare part?


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

No, I don't have a spare. My plan is to remake the deck, minus the spider frame which I'm now in the process of removing by grinding welds away. I want to keep the deck itself intact to use as a model. I can't replicate the curved shoulder but I'll just make that joint 90 degrees. Wish me luck!


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I did something similar and made the corner from a thin angle profile that I cut several cuts in one of the "lips". Then it was easy to bend to round(ish) shape. The side was just a strip of sheet metal that I swept around and plug welded to the angle profile, The top was a piece of sheet metal cut to shape, but I think I pop riveted that. All because I feared that welding a corner joint would end up with something looking like a crushed soda can, due to heat distortion.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Geez!!, I am a bit slow, I looked at that deck and thought it looks like a cox mower deck, I rebuilt one of these back in the 90's, I had a metal shop cut out the top section in 1/4" plate and for the skirt I bought enough 1/4" flat bar to wrap around the plate tack welding as I went, and then finish weld, a little heavy but I bet the deck is still in one piece and the mower is most likely shot.

Don't forget to cut the slight relief in the front of the skirt to allow the grass to be cut easier.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

1/4" ?
You could use it to clear mines.


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

FredM said:


> Geez!!, I am a bit slow, I looked at that deck and thought it looks like a cox mower deck, I rebuilt one of these back in the 90's, I had a metal shop cut out the top section in 1/4" plate and for the skirt I bought enough 1/4" flat bar to wrap around the plate tack welding as I went, and then finish weld, a little heavy but I bet the deck is still in one piece and the mower is most likely shot.
> 
> Don't forget to cut the slight relief in the front of the skirt to allow the grass to be cut easier.


It is a Cox, as you say. Good point about the relief at the front. I wouldn't have thought of it, though i may have picked it up from the old one. My plan is to use 2.5mm, which I happen to have on hand. The central spider frame gives quite a bit of reinforcement. I may get some distortion in the top (waving), but I'll clamp as much as possible. If you know Cox mowers, can you tell me what the two 70mm holes either side of the spindle are for? Are they maybe to draw air in to aid in throwing the grass clear? 
If it works well, I'll post photos; if you don't hear from me in a week or two, I've stuffed it up!


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

those two holes are for the updraft, this helps to stand the grass up to get a better cut and help with the discharge.


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Hacke said:


> 1/4" ?
> You could use it to clear mines.


maybe I should have said 5mm, and being only mild steel, if it is too light, it will bend like paper should the deck catch a ground root and I have plenty , but no ground mines.


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

FredM said:


> those two holes are for the updraft, this helps to stand the grass up to get a better cut and help with the discharge.


Aah..that makes sense.


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

The remake is finished, and all works well. Some pics showing the steps involved:


----------



## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Wow, look at you! Nice job!


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

Thanks, I must admit I'm pleased with the result.


----------



## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Well(d) done!


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

Thank you!


----------



## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

That deck has turned out great.


----------



## Ron Young (Feb 14, 2019)

Thanks, FredM. A really enjoyable project too. Almost sorry it's finished!


----------

