# Craftsman DYT4000 Wont move without stalling



## Iceknauss (May 18, 2011)

My 6 year old DYT4000 is acting up? It starts like a champ and runs fine but as soon as i try to move (either way), or engage the deck the engine dies out. Is there some odd safety feature causing this? 

Belts look fine? just did oil change and tune up a the beginning of the season.

Please Help? Thanks


----------



## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Welcome to the Forum!..Iceknauss.. It sounds like the brake disc is froze up, and needs to be broke loose... its atleast one possibility...


----------



## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Does it lug down like something is seizing up such as brakes or is it just a flat out cut the ignition type thing? I'm with Walter that it sounds like a safety interlock of some sort.


----------



## Iceknauss (May 18, 2011)

It just cuts out entirely? I remembered that it did this last year and somehow it fixed itself? i just got frustrated and pushed it into the garage. When i tried it the next day it was fine?? No i dont have magic gremlins in my garage...


----------



## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

I agree- sounds like either saftey sensor acting up ( clutch or deck sensor) or the brakes are seized up.

Brakes are easy to fix tho- since most new ones are plain aluminum, and use steel components- the two dont mix and corrode over time.

Jack it up, pull the wheel off and carefully loosen the caliper bolts ( these too are steel into aluminum, and can break easily) - once its off, i set the caliper down on a hard flat surface - then tap the steel pins thru - the caliper bores should be cleaned out, the pins cleaned with a wire brush, lil bit of never seize on the bolts and pins and itll work like new.


----------



## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

dangeroustoys56 said:


> I agree- sounds like either saftey sensor acting up ( clutch or deck sensor) or the brakes are seized up.
> 
> Brakes are easy to fix tho- since most new ones are plain aluminum, and use steel components- the two dont mix and corrode over time.
> 
> Jack it up, pull the wheel off and carefully loosen the caliper bolts ( these too are steel into aluminum, and can break easily) - once its off, i set the caliper down on a hard flat surface - then tap the steel pins thru - the caliper bores should be cleaned out, the pins cleaned with a wire brush, lil bit of never seize on the bolts and pins and itll work like new.



Usually the craftsman has that one disc that is on the right side of the axle. You can take a hammer, and tap the lever thats hooked to the link rod from the brake/clutch pedal, and it should free up..


----------



## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Wjjones : I did that the first time i had brake problems - the pins went all the way in and stuck there , ended up taking it apart anyway.


----------



## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

dangeroustoys56 said:


> Wjjones : I did that the first time i had brake problems - the pins went all the way in and stuck there , ended up taking it apart anyway.



Your right a complete tear down cleaning, and reassemble to correct the problem for good...


----------



## rsmith335 (Jun 2, 2010)

Can you aply some grease to the pins, once cleaned up, to prevent this in the future?


----------



## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

just a lil bit - i use never seize , keeps the corrosion away.


----------



## tomcat (Apr 19, 2011)

i had this same problem with my sears craftsman dyt 4000. found out it was the safety interlock switch under the seat. i could crank it and it would run fine, but as soon as you let out on the clutch to move it or engage the blades it would die out. found the seat switch too expensive to replace and really useless. i had to tape seat plunger in so it would work and finally i removed the switch all together. (bypassed it) hope this helps.


----------



## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

tomcat said:


> i had this same problem with my sears craftsman dyt 4000. found out it was the safety interlock switch under the seat. i could crank it and it would run fine, but as soon as you let out on the clutch to move it or engage the blades it would die out. found the seat switch too expensive to replace and really useless. i had to tape seat plunger in so it would work and finally i removed the switch all together. (bypassed it) hope this helps.



It does help, and Thankyou i had completely forgot about that stupid seat switch. It acts as a double switch if you look close you will see another part of the switch cutout that the plug presses in on when you plug it together. So it has that part, and the plunger..


----------



## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Seat switch..... Can be so obvious sometimes it can be over looked ....


----------



## tomcat (Apr 19, 2011)

i'm glad to have helped you. those seat switches should be may a little bit better. my opinion is there is just too many interlock switches on the tractors made nowadays. anyway have a great week and enjoy you're tractor.


----------



## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

I dont have that issue with most of my tractors - the PO's already took em off :lmao:


----------



## HickoryNut (Mar 8, 2011)

Maybe that is why I see so many tractors for sale with NO seats!2funny


----------



## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

HickoryNut said:


> Maybe that is why I see so many tractors for sale with NO seats!2funny



:lmao:...:lmao:...:lmao:... Its possible.. I think the brake could be part of the problem too though..??


----------



## Iceknauss (May 18, 2011)

*Problem was a safety sensor*

Thanks for all the replies. 

As it turns out it was a safety sensor. The red two wire lead that comes off the top of the engine was the problem. The connector was just packed with dirt. I disconnected it, blew out the ends with my compressor, reattached, and its worked ever since.


----------



## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Iceknauss said:


> Thanks for all the replies.
> 
> As it turns out it was a safety sensor. The red two wire lead that comes off the top of the engine was the problem. The connector was just packed with dirt. I disconnected it, blew out the ends with my compressor, reattached, and its worked ever since.



Great to hear it was just something simple. I think that is the stator/alternator connector but i may be wrong.


----------



## Dodge (Oct 17, 2012)

where is the neutral/brake switch on my craftsman dyt4000 located


----------



## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Dodge said:


> where is the neutral/brake switch on my craftsman dyt4000 located



Should be right above the brake rod inside the dash bottom the part of the brake rod that curves under the mower presses it when you push the brake in. Is this the one you are asking about?


----------



## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Actually, looking online at the Sears Parts diagrams, it's the clutch/brake safety switch. 

Yes, look where the brake rod is near the engine deck (frame). This is under the battery and under the starter solenoid. See this info video that Sears refers to on their help forums. 

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xi3p465MN1E[/ame] 

I had to locate this today because the engine runs just fine, pop out the clutch or engage the PTO and the engine cuts off. 

This switch is very common to go out because the dumb plunger to contacts fails over time. Grime and cut grass dust work up into the switch after a few seasons.


----------

