# D130 Electrical Issue



## Potch (9 mo ago)

D130 will not start with the key. No clicks. Just dead.
Replaced ignition switch(I've had previous issues with it).
Replaced solenoid. Just because.
Replaced 20a fuse.
D130 starts and runs fine when jumping it at the solenoid. The battery reads 12.4v. It turns off fine with the key.
The 3 safety switches appear to work fine. I don't see any signs of frayed wires, but could be missing something.
Any thoughts?


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Gonna be another stupid question on my part... What make is a D130?


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## Potch (9 mo ago)

Sorry about that. John Deere D130.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

I'm gonna say 75% of the time I come across the problem you just described it is the Brake Switch. It's under the left floorboard and has about the stupidest mounting system you could image. It just pushes into a slot in the frame rail and is held in place by a couple of cheesy plastic ears. The ears wear down, or snap off, and the engine won't crank. Switch terminal connections are subject to a high level of corrosion........... JD part # GY20094


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## Potch (9 mo ago)

Thanks. It seemed to check out OK, but I'll check it again.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Potch said:


> Thanks. It seemed to check out OK, but I'll check it again.


4-prong brake switch.... NO & NC.... NO (normally open) side is tied into the ground circuit of your 4- post starter relay.... That's why you have to push the brake pedal down to crank (I assume you are doing that?)

NC (normally closed) side is tied into your magneto kill through the PTO switch and Seat switch...... That's why the engine dies if you have the PTO on and leave the seat, without setting the parking brake. Unplug the brake switch and put a jumper wire in the NO side of the plug, if it cranks, the problem is in the plastic switch.

On your 4-post starter relay, one of the smaller post (it doesn't matter which one on installation) is 12VDC coming down from the key switch when the key is moved to the spring-loaded start. The other small post is the ground circuit for the relay (3-post relays ground through the mounting legs). If you want to by-pass the "Brake on to Crank" function, just connect that terminal direct to ground, and it will crank without the brake pedal being depressed. Could be bad news if you ever forget it's in gear and it's a geared transaxle and not a hydro like yours


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## Potch (9 mo ago)

Bob Driver said:


> 4-prong switch.... NO & NC.... NO (normally open) side is tied into the ground circuit of your 4- post starter relay.... That's why you have to push the brake pedal down to crank (You are doing that?)
> 
> NC (normally closed) side is tied into your magneto kill through the PTO switch and Seat switch...... That's why the engine dies if you have the PTO on and leave the seat, without setting the parking brake.
> 
> Unplug the brake switch and put a jumper wire in the NO side, if it cranks, the problem is in the switch. On your 4-post starter relay, one of the smaller post (it doesn't matter which one on installation) is 12VDC coming down from the key switch when the key is moved to the spring-loaded start. The other small post is the ground circuit for the relay (3-post relays ground through the mounting legs). If you want to by-pass the "Brake on to Crank" function, just connect that terminal direct to ground, and it will crank without the brake pedal being depressed. Could be bad news if you ever forget it's in gear and it's a geared transaxle and not a hydro like yours


Thanks Bob. Great info. Now I just need the time to get back into it. I'll let you know how I make out.


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## Potch (9 mo ago)

OK.... Tried that. Went as far as removing the switch and jumpered the brake switch.... And the mower deck switch... And the seat switch. Still nothing. I put a meter on the solenoid. 12.6v going in.... Nothing going out. And it's a new solenoid.

Something else I didn't notice earlier. I have no headlights. Bad relay maybe? I'm missing something simple. Tested the fuse again(continuity test). Works fine. Time to take it to a fixit shop?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Potch said:


> OK.... Tried that. Went as far as removing the switch and jumpered the brake switch.... And the mower deck switch... And the seat switch. Still nothing. I put a meter on the solenoid. 12.6v going in.... Nothing going out. And it's a new solenoid.
> 
> Something else I didn't notice earlier. I have no headlights. Bad relay maybe? I'm missing something simple. Tested the fuse again(continuity test). Works fine. Time to take it to a fixit shop?


I'd be willing to bet the starter relay isn't get a ground, or you're not getting 12V from the S terminal on the switch to the relay. Big red cable coming from the battery should have 12.6V all the time. One of the smaller wires is coming from the S terminal on the key switch. It should have 12.6V when you move the key to the spring loaded start position. The other small wire/terminal is the ground circuit for the starter relay. Run a jumper wire from it up to the ground at the battery. The other big red cable runs down to the starter. If you hit the start and the starter relay doesn't click/engage the starter, then it's time to take it to the shop


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## Potch (9 mo ago)

OK....... After jumping it all summer to start it, I finally found the problem. There is a second wire that runs from the positive terminal to the 20 amp fuse. In the middle of the wire is a two piece plastic connector. I checked it multiple times before, but it always seemed fine. It wasn't. One of the ends came loose inside the connector. I didn't have another connector, so I simply cut the connector out and replaced it with a simple wire nut. It started immediately. Big DUH on my part. Sometimes it's just a simple fix. Thought people would want an extra item to put in their checklist.


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## 2billt (Aug 7, 2011)

Never hurts to double back a few steps. Fresh start in the morning does that for me sometimes.
Congrats.


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