# Massey Ferguson 135 diesel no start



## ckcj81

Okay so I need some major help 

Bought a Massey 135 diesel. Guy said it had been sitting for about 6 months or so. Had the injector pump rebuilt (is it bad that I turned the pump after I got it rebuilt before I put it on) . I know it has to be timed right but there is that notch on the dront that fits over that bump on the sprocket. Anyhow put new lift pump on and new fuel line. New diesel in the tank. Injector is getting fuel when I open the bleed bolts. Put new oil in it. New battery. Radiator full of fluid . Turns over just fine but will not start: used some starting fluid but not too much cause I know it's bad for the motor. 
It's acted like it wanted to start wiwith h a few squirts of ether and it actually started to knock. I've heard that bad injectors can cause a knock. Injectors were not replaced. Fuel should be going to them since The injector pump is new. WHAT IS THE PROBLEM???? Why won't it start!?!!!! 
Help please!!!!  
Thanks


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## willys55

how did you purge the air from the pump?


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## willys55

FWI, instead of using ether/starting fluid...use wd40, this way you wont damage the engine


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## ckcj81

First off thanks for the reply 

I just hooked the pump up and used the manual lever on the lift pump. That felt slow so I turned it over 5 second intervals to help pump the gas through 

Did I miss a step??? 

Thanks on the WD40 idea too. 
Much appreciated


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## willys55

with any diesel you should crack the jam nut to the nozzles/injectors loose about 1 turn, verify good fuel supply to the pump, full throttle on the lever and crank it over good until no air bubbles are coming from the line. When I prime a pump, I crank it over and as soon as any of the nozzles show no air I close those caps while still cranking and many times the engine will fire on the one or two good nozzles, then you just keep snugging up the line caps and you are good.....leaving it running as you are doing so. Always a good idea to have a very large drain catch under the engine


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## ckcj81

Thank you Russ! 

I will try this tonight and hope that it works. I will keep you posted on my progress.


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## ckcj81

And as far as injectors go if I was to get new ones do I just simply buy them and put them on? Do they have to be calibrated in any way? 
thanks


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## ckcj81

Absolutely discouraged 
Tractor will not start! Starter ended up smoking it got so hot. I stopped so I didn't burn that up. I am at a loss and am about to tow it to my local tractor shop. I've tried everything. how much pressure should be coming out of the bleeding screws on the injector pump???? Seems like the pressure isn't a ton. Checked all my lines and put new fuel filter in too. Guy told me to pull out the choke cable to start and push it in to make it stop
I've tried it all and am lost!!! 
Please help! 
Thanks


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## ckcj81

Is there anything also that should be done to the injector pump when putting back in the tractor after a new rebuild???


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## MFinWA

What engine? Do not use starting fluid on a diesel engine unless you know per manufacturer this is OK. I can show you pic's of pistons that blew apart from this. My AD3.152 for example, is one you never, ever use it on. Never wing an injection pump installation. First question is...Are you willing and able to get the information you need to understand this system and perform the task. Diesel fuel management components some of the most close tolerance products produced. They are very dependable but require attention to detail to install. Yes pumps need to be indexed and timed to engine. Once that is verified, then you get to fuel control shut off, internal to the pump or external, Several things can result in a no start, and they have nothing to do with the pump. I am just trying to help. I am willing to spend some time helping you, Email me [email protected]


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## thepumpguysc

There is a bleed screw by the name plate, a double screw, loosen the small screw 5/16 and use the HP or crank the engine until fuel, NO AIR, comes out and tighten.
Loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS a couple of turns, no need to take them off, just loosen. Hold the throttle wide open. MAKE SURE the shut off lever is in the run position. The shut off lever on the pump is in the run position, when the long end of the lever is pointing towards the radiator. Now crank the engine until fuel squirts out of the lines AT the injectors. Tighten the lines and off you go.
One thing you might have done is, when you changed the filter, did you put the oring ONTOP of the filter?? or UP IN the filter head?? IF you put it ON THE FILTER that's the problem.. IT LOOKS LIKE it goes there and WILL FIT, but you actually choked off the fuel.. Take the filter back down and put the big oring UP IN the filter head and sandwich the oring between the filter and head.. Good luck.. My email addr is >thepumpguysc at aol dot com if you need more help.


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## MFinWA

You mentioned disturbing the pump after you received it back from rebuild. Even though the shaft is keyed, This does not mean as long as it slides in this is correct. Mechanical injection pumps have internal timing. usually set with a rig pin or through a visual aid. If it is not in time, it will not be in time with the engine even if you had the engine in the correct position for installation. Example trying to fuel #3 instead of #1. You should be able to put he engine in the correct position to check the timing, for example #1 TDC of the compression stroke and verify the pumps timing by inserting a rig pin on the pump. On alot of engines this is the procedure for checking this. Without having the Engine and pump data I can't tell you exactly how to check this particular installation. Be aware you can do damage to pump and engine continuing to try and start it.


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## MFinWA

I looked up a few of your specs on a 135. I take it you have a Perkins AD3.152. Take the pump back off and contact the shop who did the rebuild. Ask them if you need to bring it back to have them retime it for you. (removing the side cover usually voids the warranty.) Unless you have an injector tester you cannot verify timing yourself. This is done by applying pressure to one particular port and turning the pump until it locks up. You then verify the timing under the cover. They usually have a snap ring they rotate to an index mark. I have not had an issue with my pump so I had not researched this for my tractor yet. I have the same engine. You should look for some scribe lines on the mounting flanges of the pump and the engine and make sure they are lined up. If you notice the holes in the pump flange are slightly slotted. Best advice really is to get a Perkins workshop manual for your engine and follow the steps. I hope this helps.


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## thepumpguysc

The posters last reply was almost 2 months ago.. if he doesn't have it started by now he never will..
There is no need to take the pump back.. it will only go on 1 way.. there is a master spline on the pump drive and a dowel pin in the gear.. If by chance you miss the dowel, the bolt holes wont line up.. its fool proof. and the timing mark on the pump flange points to "0" on the engine degree marks. I hope helps..


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## MFinWA

Sorry didn't notice the date, Just assumed because it was Qued on top of my page it was still ongoing. You can in fact install a pump anytime the accessory drive gear lines up in relationship to the flange. Doesn't mean it is in time with the engine. If this isn't true, I have an open mind and always am looking to improve myself, send me some pics of it. 

I suspect the problem was one of three reasons. Crank not positioned TDC #1 cyl. at install, internal timing of pump was incorrect, or timing of injection pump gear to idler off from gear falling out when engine was rotated.

I have installed quite a few pumps over the years and have had to return 3 pumps because the internal timing was performed incorrectly by the repair shop. This includes some large yellow iron manufacturers. The better repair shops put warnings not to disturb pump or open cover over indexing mechanism. If you break their seals you will have no warranty and most likely will be charged to have it set up again. It is never my intention to give anyone bad advice. If you mechanic professionally the last thing you want to do is have to explain to your boss why his new pump no longer has a warranty. And as an owner it sucks to pay for the same job again because you didn't do your research. One thing for sure I have learned after 32 years of wrenching for a living, is short cuts always have a price, and slow and sure always pays off in reliability and overall cost.


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