# NEW+Ferris--37hp vanguard oil-gaurd " Good Way" to change Oil!!



## Bud887 (Aug 20, 2020)

But this is better and right way to change oil in the NEW vanguard 37hp engines, I did this at 44 Hours you,ll be surprised,,

First it takes 6 quarts to change oil [Completely ] NOT 5,,
First drain oil like they say out of drain---Take filter out---Now take the Plug out of the engine block lower left looking from back and drain another pint out--Now look inside and flush the tank out,,you be surprised of all metal comes out,,
Close plugs and put 5 quarts in tank with NO oil filter,, NOW take off the one oil line from tank that comes from engine [yellow tabs] ---Take plug wires off and crank engine over with line into a cup and pump out another pint of dirty oil till you see clean oil come out,---While cranking over it is pumping New oil in and oil out--Now put line back on--filter in--plug wires on and add ANOTHER quart of oil and you will have a REAL oil change,
I use Racing oil with alot Zinc over 20 years,,

Other way you are adding one quart of dirty oil to the nice clean oil you are putting in [NOT GOOD] Think about putting a quart of Dirty oil back into your pickup when changing oil??-Same thing,,

See photos of the filter I cut apart and ALL the metal in it from the new engine only at 44 hours---AND also changed the Hydro oil & filters SAME thing ALOT of Crap in filters

First set photos from engine and second from Hydros,,


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum Bud887. You don't mess around with an oil change, do you! Makes sense.


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## Bud887 (Aug 20, 2020)

I try to do good at things? I posted this cause all me life been mechanic and involved in testing different oils etc, And dealers tell you to wait to 500 hours to change oil not good,,, Even though the metal & other things are in the filter where there suppose to be it will restrict the oil flow and starve the pump inturn not lubricating like it should,,,,
Thats how alot of automatic Trans burn up from restricting oil flow to pump then clutches burn up,[Lower fluid pressure]]


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Huh.... How much do you charge for an oil change? I've got to get it done in under 10 minutes when I'm running "Spring Tune-up Specials" and I'm doing 3-4 a day, or I loose my (*) with what I charge. I use one of these to allow me to pump a vacuum and start the oil draining while I'm knocking out a 10 item checklist that I've got to do in under an hour of labor. No risk of rounding-off a tight drain plug, or a leak where I disconnected a hose. Does 4 V-twins before I have to empty it into a 55 gallon waste oil drum using a drum funnel









https://www.amazon.com/Power-Americ...ocphy=9013798&hvtargid=pla-434081626791&psc=1










https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-3290...=55+gallon+drum+funnel&qid=1598022601&sr=8-15


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## Bud887 (Aug 20, 2020)

Well an update on my new mower--Took to shop had LOUD screeching noise so one of blades spindle bearings is burned up??--And yes I grease them--ONLY 78 hours on it,,,,AND looking into the engine most likely getting new one has loud valve train noise and they were shocked at the oil filter I kepted with all metal shavings in it at 44 hours??? Dont know if this was a good choice now?? For what it cost should last more than 78 hours????????????


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

You do know the "Racing Oil" posted in your picture probably isn't engineered with the other wear additives you need other than zinc in it as regular over-the-counter oil? Racing oil is not intended to be run in a lawn mower engine for 50 hours between oil changes. If the Briggs Service Rep finds out you were running a true racing oil, you'll play hell getting warranty out of him. If they want that engine back from your local dealer, it's so they can do a spectrometric oil analysis on the residual oil. If it's not a "rated as stated", detergent oil, listed in their Operators Manual, your Dealer will be hearing about it. This is straight out of the Operators Manual for the 37HP EFI Vanguard
_
"We recommend the use of Briggs & Stratton *Warranty Certified* oils for best performance. Other high-quality detergent oils are acceptable if classified for service SF, SG, SH, SJ or higher. Do not use special additives"
_
Not clear on which one you put in the engine, but neither 15-40, or 20-50, are approved weights of oil for a 37HP EFI Vanguard engine under any operating temperatures
file:///C:/Users/User/AppData/Local/Temp/ngjwzLP8p8ZVj5K1w.PDF

Not trying to be a keyboard A-hole here, but I've dealt with both Briggs and Kohler on way to many engine warranty claims and I know how they operate. Just trying to give you a heads up


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I always thought the oil filter was to catch contaminants!!, and I have a 9 year old Dixon that is still running the original bearings in both spindles and these are greased most times before I mow.


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## Bud887 (Aug 20, 2020)

Thanks for reply--I did e-mail ferris and Brigs and Schaeffers before I change oil and all said it was good to use?? Not trying to argue just want to sure what I,m doing here? I did keep oil from engine when first change was done And both oil filters, heres what they said; 
*FERRIS oil inquiry*








*Parts <[email protected]>*
Tue, Aug 4, 9:03 AM
















to me
The owners manual suggests using “Briggs and Stratton certified oils for best performance while other high quality detergent oils are acceptable” They recommend 5w-30 for all around temperatures and 15w-50 for higher temps.

It has always been my opinion that you should use an oil you are comfortable with and will continue to use that same oil over and over and over.

Long story short, yes to Schaeffers 15w-40.

And the info on Schaeffers oil siad it SM rated and was good to use in Air-cooled engines?? which I thought was ok rating to use??
Supreme 7000 Synthetic Plus™ Racing Oil SAE 15W-40 can be used in most types of 4-cycle air-cooled or water-cooled motorcycle and ATV engines. Supreme 7000 Synthetic Plus™ Racing Oil SAE 15W-40 is not recommended for use in those 4-cycle engine applications that specify the use of either a JASO MA or MB or NMMA FC or FC-W 4-cycle engine oils. Supreme 7000 Synthetic Plus™ Racing Oil SAE 15W-40 meets and exceeds the following specifications and manufacturers’ requirements: MIL-PRE- 46152E; CID A-A-52039B; A-A-52306A; API Service Classification SM/CF Ford; General Motors; Chrysler; specifications ; JASO JIS K2215 specifications; ACEA A3/B3; Mercedes MB 228.3; MB 228.5; MB 229.1; MB 229.51

CHECK OUT THIS SIGHT LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK??https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/258-708-td.pdf

I thought I did my homework now I am worried about all this????????


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## Bud887 (Aug 20, 2020)

Also I went by this from Briggs it said SM oil was ok?? Am I messing up or not??
*OIL RECOMMENDATIONS*









*Below 40°F (4°C) the use of SAE 30 will result in hard starting and could cause a lack of lubrication failure.
**Above 80°F (27°C) the use of 10W30 may cause increased oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently.


*SAE 30* 40°F and higher (5°C and higher) is good for all purpose use above 40°F, use below 40°F will cause hard starting.

*10W-30* 0 to 100 °F (-18 to 38°C) is better for varying temperature conditions. This grade of oil improves cold weather starting, but may increase oil consumption at 80°F (27°C) or higher.

*Synthetic 5W-30* -20 to 120°F (-30 to 40°C) provides the best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.

*5W-30* 40°F and below (5°C and below) is recommended for winter use, and works best in cold conditions.

For continuous-use, such as commercial lawn cutting or pressure washing, use *Vanguard 15W-50 Oil* (temperatures from 20°F to 130°F).



*Type of oil to use*

Use a high quality detergent oil classified "For Service SJ, SL, SM, SN" or higher.


Do not add additional additives.


Choose a viscosity according to the table above.


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## Bud887 (Aug 20, 2020)

And I thought if 10w--30 and 15w--50 was ok to use what,s wrong with 15w--40?? Rated SM?? High Zinc?? I just want to know if I messed up?? You seem to know what your talking about,


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I don't know, but I'd stick with the 10w-30. Just don't mow when it's 120 degrees outside, as your lawn will dry up and go into hybernation, if it's below zero, you'll have to push snow to find the grass.
Are you a commercial enterprise, long hard continuous use?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

*"For Service SJ, SL, SM, SN" or higher.*

Schaeffer's Supreme 7000 Synthetic Plus™ Racing Oil SAE 15W-40 is a *CJ-4 rated Diesel OIL* according to their technical data sheet
https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/222-700-td.pdf

_"Supreme 7000™Synthetic Plus is recommended for use in all types of diesel engines operating on both less than 500 ppm and ultra-low sulfur diesel fuel. Supreme 7000™Synthetic Plus exceeds the current requirements for API CJ-4 and is particularly suitablefor use in 2007 emission compliant engines"_


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## Bud887 (Aug 20, 2020)

There are two 15w-40 oils they make,,The one your looking at is diesel BUT the one I use is;
[ #708 SUPREME 7000 SYNTHETIC PLUS™ RACING OIL SAE 15W-40 API SM/CF] Is #708 NOT #700---Theres a difference in them,,
https://www.schaefferoil.com/documents/258-708-td.pdf


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

_"And *I* thought if 10w--30 and 15w--50 was ok to use what,s wrong with 15w--40??"
_
Probably nothing wrong with the oil, but 15w-40 is not one of *their* recommended weights. They may warranty that "loud valve train noise", or they may not. With Briggs going through bankruptcy at the moment, their Service Reps are not exactly passing out $$$ in the way of warranty claims at the moment and using 15w-40 gives them an easy way out to deny a claim 

Every time they've run into $$$ problems in the past 10 years, their warranty claims immediately started to dry up . Just trying to give you a heads up from my own experience with Briggs.....


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## Bud887 (Aug 20, 2020)

Thanks


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