# 2004 T-1000 quits after running



## FreedomWriter (Apr 19, 2017)

I need help with a 2004 Craftsman t-1000 17 1/2 HP. I can start it up, use it a little while, then out of nowhere it will just quit running like it's getting to hot or something. I let it cool down and it will start running again. It also will quit when I dis-engage the blades. During the time i have it running, whenever i switch from forward to reverse, as im going along, i can tell it starts trying to cut the engine off as well, so i try and shift it slowly and that seems to help it for a while until it heats up. Any suggestions on what to possibly check?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Welcome to the forum!
Does it only do it if the blades are engaged ?
You could have a defective safety switch,or a weak Armature(coil).
The next time it cuts out, Pull the spark plug wire off the plug, and check for spark . 
If it has spark, I would check for fuel, and / or compression.
If no spark, Check the ignition switch,and the safety switches,or low oil level.


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## FreedomWriter (Apr 19, 2017)

Yes when the blades are going. I have noticed some cracking in the fuel line just passed the filter but wasn't sure if that would do it. I noticed my coil wire is overlapping the engine. Those two things I haven't replaced yet. Trying to figure this out on the cheap.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Another possibility is your fuel cap. But as Mr. John mentioned its most likely the coil. I would think a bad safety switch would just work, or not but not slowly go out.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Had a tractor ,in Michigan that worked great,for 20 minutes,or so,then die.
Found out the safety switch was getting hot,and breaking contact.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

jhngardner367 said:


> Had a tractor ,in Michigan that worked great,for 20 minutes,or so,then die.
> Found out the safety switch was getting hot,and breaking contact.



Glad you mentioned that Mr. John I have a neighbor with a similar problem. His will run 15 to 20 minutes, and then just die after a few minutes it will start back, and repeat the same cycle all over. We have went through everything else.


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## FreedomWriter (Apr 19, 2017)

Hello. Sorry I haven't been on here in awhile but was having log in issues. Well to update my problem with my Craftsman t-1000. I have replaced the coil, seat switch, gas cap, fuel filter. Changed the oil and it still is getting hot and shutting down. I looked online and people are saying that the transmission might need the fluid changed even though they are supposed to be non serviceable. Anybody have anymore thoughts of what I can do next, or thoughts about the transmission?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Unless the trans is dragging it won't cause it to overheat,and shut down.
However,after re-reading your first post, I'm inclined to think valve adjustment,or,as I said earlier,coil,or switch.
Also,make sure the cooling fins ,on the cylinder are clear of debris,and that the right weight of oil is used.
One other thing,you can check,is the fuel solenoid,on the carb bowl.
A bad wire,or ground will cause it to shut off fuel.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Something I just ran across:
Craftsman has had trouble with the ignition switches shorting,when hot,or under load....as in when engaging/disengaging the blades.Put a jumper wire from the battery (+) to the main fuse,with a toggle switch,and once it's running turn on the toggle switch,and see if it still does it.
If it does, then start checking all the safety switches, starting with the blade switch.
If it keeps running it's the ignition switch.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

jhngardner367 said:


> .......Put a jumper wire from the battery (+) to the main fuse,with a toggle switch,and once it's running turn on the toggle switch,and see if it still does it........


The fuse is between the battery and the key switch.
You are only jumping 1/2 way TO the key switch.
It might check the fuse/holder if jumped to the KS side of the fuse.

OP-
Post the Sears 917.xxxxxx number found under the seat.
That way, one could possibly find the correct electrical schematic amongst the 200+ Craftsman schematic out there. There may be a more obscure "electrical" reason.
Meanwhile, clean the carb.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Basically you're trying to eliminate the key switch,in the test,so I suppose ,after it's running,you can just unplug the switch.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

You have to bridge across the key switch to test.
You haven't got that far, if jumping from the battery to the fuse, since the fuse is between the battery & key switch.
Somewhat "typical LT 1000 schematic posted.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Does it have a manual, or electric pto? Im guessing manual pto. As mentioned check your valves.


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## FreedomWriter (Apr 19, 2017)

Hello. I know that it' been awhile since I've posted on the site about my craftsman LT1000 mower. I am still being plagued by the same problem that I had back when I was posting about before. I have done about everything I can think of to track down the problem. I've replaced the seat switch, coil, fuel line. I've cleaned the fins, changed the oil and even tried to run the mower with the hood off, thinking it might help run cooler. It did not. Now with another mowing season about to start, I am faced with this once again. If anyone could make anymore suggestions of something to try, I'm all ears! Thank you in advance...


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

Have you verified you actually have spark when it kills? Always a chance of another bad coil-

Try loosening the gas cap when it stalls. Wait a few seconds and see if it starts & runs for a similar amount of time. If the cap isn't venting, you may be drawing a vacuum in the tank.


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## FreedomWriter (Apr 19, 2017)

I guess I should'e added that I have replaced the gas cap as well. When it quits running I just let it sit for maybe 5 minutes and then I am able to restart and go for a short period of time. I'm perplexed as to what could be wrong with it.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

I would go with Mr. Bills recommendation, and get a new coil. Also make sure the air gap is correct between it, and the flywheel. I always take a piece of sandpaper, or wire wheel to the flywheel magnet gently just enough to clean off the rust.


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

FreedomWriter said:


> I guess I should'e added that I have replaced the gas cap as well. When it quits running I just let it sit for maybe 5 minutes and then I am able to restart and go for a short period of time. I'm perplexed as to what could be wrong with it.


I've asked a couple questions and you haven't answered any of them.
One can't help those who won't help themselves.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Are you having a bad day Mr. Bill?


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## Bill Kapaun (May 8, 2007)

wjjones said:


> Are you having a bad day Mr. Bill?


And exactly why would you say that other than trying to stir things up?

It makes it a lot easier if one can look at a schematic etc. to see if there is something obscure like an OPR that's causing the problem.
One can't look at a schematic if the OP WON'T provide the model#

*Since you don't like my methods, I fully expect YOU to help this poster.*


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## FreedomWriter (Apr 19, 2017)

Hello guys. (Bill) until today, I've never received any notifications that anyone had responded to try and answer my question in here. Anyway sir thank you for trying to help and from what I've noticed in your postings, everything you have suggested so far, I have tried with no success. Today was the first I've tried using my Rider and it barely lasted 5 minutes which seems to coincide with the warmer temps. It was almost 90 today. At this point I'm willing to try about anything, if possible to diagnose this money pit lawn mower. Thank you guys for trying to help...


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Freedomwriter,.does it slowly die,or just stops?
I'm wondering if it may have a bad head gasket !!


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

No sir everybody has a bad day. I have them too.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Bill Kapaun said:


> And exactly why would you say that other than trying to stir things up?
> 
> It makes it a lot easier if one can look at a schematic etc. to see if there is something obscure like an OPR that's causing the problem.
> One can't look at a schematic if the OP WON'T provide the model#
> ...


His reply was from March 14th. He had not been back on here until now. I was just making a point that your argument might have been over nothing.


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## yobry1 (Mar 17, 2012)

My dads craftsman lt1000 917.270660 with a briggs 15.5 platinum turbo cooled that he bought used a couple yrs ago has a similar problem that began last year. I borrowed it to mow my 2acre yard/field, thought it was just getting hot did some research and noticed the shroud on top of the engine that mounts to the gas tank was missing but the foam was on the inside of the hood where one had been before so I got one on ebay for $13, installed it hoping it would help but it didnt. Still doing it. After mowing about 45+mins, it will start surging up n down 3-4 times then dies. I'd open the hood to let it cool for 15-20mins, then start it up no problem and mow another 25+ mins til it died again. So now when it's about to die, I open the hood, which stops it from dying so I can continue mowing with the hood up which lasts another 10-15mins or so then it dies. My dad took the shroud/cowl off and said it mows longer without it on.
Carb was rebuilt 2yrs ago with new air filter installed and a new foam af cover on, installed inline fuel shutoff last year bcoz gas in crankcase(changed oil after that) and change oil,check and clean spark plug, clean head every year before new mowing season; new fuel filter last yr (the see thru type with hepa filter inside which stay only half full or less all the time)(should I go back to original type filter?), new fuel line and clamps last yr, engine pressure washed last month and still clean. Unlike the OP, it doesn't want to die when shifting gears or engage/disengage blades


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Coil, or gas cap.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Sometimes the coil will heat up, and cause this type of problem, and sometimes the vent in the fuel cap goes bad. If its the cap cleaning the vent hole wont work. Next time it happens carefully loosen the gas cap just a little, and see if it stays running. Be mindful that the engine is running, and stay clear of moving parts.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

If you clean the head every year do you install a new head cap gasket?


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## yobry1 (Mar 17, 2012)

wjjones said:


> Sometimes the coil will heat up, and cause this type of problem, and sometimes the vent in the fuel cap goes bad. If its the cap cleaning the vent hole wont work. Next time it happens carefully loosen the gas cap just a little, and see if it stays running. Be mindful that the engine is running, and stay clear of moving parts.


 Thanks, I checked it already and I don't think its the gas cap as I can blow air thru the little hole in the top and when tank is full, gas leaks out of the hole when mowing on a full tank. I'll check the coil in a few days.


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## yobry1 (Mar 17, 2012)

wjjones said:


> If you clean the head every year do you install a new head cap gasket?


Only if the gasket gets torn when removing the head. I've been doing this to mowers for over 15yrs now and the gasket only gets damaged after the 4th or 5th time removing the head and it was good this time. I know it's bad if I see a spot with black(carbon) around where the head meets the engine before putting it back on.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Does it puff any smoke,just before it dies ?
If so,is it black,white,or bluish smoke?
If not,then,the next time it dies,don't try to start it.
Instead, pull the spark plug,and see what it looks like.


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