# Charging Issue and Trouble Shooting Assistance



## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hope someone can answer a problem I am having with my John Deere 2320 compact utility tractor. My battery is not getting charged during operation. Had the battery checked out at two different auto parts stores and they both said the battery is good. Check the voltage at the battery while the tractor is running at full RPM and it reads 11.8 volts. Took the alternator to a specialty shop and was told the alternator is good, producing 13 to 14 volts. With no helping knowledge from John Deere Service Dealer as to where the Voltage Regulator is located or the Diodes, I was on my own, but found them mounted behind the engine cowling cover. John Deere Service couldn't check the Voltage Regulator, nor could they tell me how to check it out with a volt meter, they just want me to change parts instead. Before I would buy a new regulator, I wanted to check the Diode first, another pain in the butt to find, but eventually I found it. Contacted a service manager at a dealer on how to test and was told the outside post to post would read infinity, but place the positive lead of the meter on the center post of the Diode and the Negative lead on either outside posts and it should read continuity. It was infinity all way around, so I ordered in new Diode. When I went to the dealer to pick it up I checked it out on the counter first with a meter, but it read the same as the one I was replacing. Needless to say I did not buy the new Diode. Does anyone know how to properly check out procedure for both the Diode and Voltage Regulator. The Voltage Regulator in a part number # M807915 and the Diode number # LVU804171. The Diode looks like a typical auto plugin fuse, but instead of two posts, there are three and the body is non transparent. I would appreciate anyone's feedback with knowledge on checking these two items out.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Doug H. said:


> Hope someone can answer a problem I am having with my John Deere 2320 compact utility tractor. My battery is not getting charged during operation. Had the battery checked out at two different auto parts stores and they both said the battery is good. Check the voltage at the battery while the tractor is running at full RPM and it reads 11.8 volts. Took the alternator to a specialty shop and was told the alternator is good, producing 13 to 14 volts. With no helping knowledge from John Deere Service Dealer as to where the Voltage Regulator is located or the Diodes, I was on my own, but found them mounted behind the engine cowling cover. John Deere Service couldn't check the Voltage Regulator, nor could they tell me how to check it out with a volt meter, they just want me to change parts instead. Before I would buy a new regulator, I wanted to check the Diode first, another pain in the butt to find, but eventually I found it. Contacted a service manager at a dealer on how to test and was told the outside post to post would read infinity, but place the positive lead of the meter on the center post of the Diode and the Negative lead on either outside posts and it should read continuity. It was infinity all way around, so I ordered in new Diode. When I went to the dealer to pick it up I checked it out on the counter first with a meter, but it read the same as the one I was replacing. Needless to say I did not buy the new Diode. Does anyone know how to properly check out procedure for both the Diode and Voltage Regulator. The Voltage Regulator in a part number # M807915 and the Diode number # LVU804171. The Diode looks like a typical auto plugin fuse, but instead of two posts, there are three and the body is non transparent. I would appreciate anyone's feedback with knowledge on checking these two items out.



The voltage regulator takes special test equipment to test, usually at an alternator repair shop. The diode is 1 way. testing with a ohm meter should show a small resistance, reversing the leads should show a larger reading. I could not get a reading when I tested mine either. See my post on ACDelco S10 alternator and there is a link to how to test and alternator. I am surprised that the alternator doesn't have an internal regulator, diode, rectifier found on most new alternators. A typical arrangement uses a 3 wire. The main output goes thru the amp meter then to a common terminal block. The 2 prong plug on the side of the alternator has a red and white wire. The red wire is voltage sensing and goes from the common terminal block back to the alternator, it should read 14 volts at the terminal block. The white wire is an "exciting" wire to activate the alternator. It runs from the coil side if the ignition switch, "run position" thru an indicator light and then to the alternator. The light should come on when the switch is turned on, then go out after the motor starts, indicating the alternator is turned on and producing current back to the battery. If the light comes back on with the motor running, the alternator is not working.

FYI. My alternator got shorted out after rodents ate the wiring. Instead of replacing a bunch of parts like I did and still could not get it to work, I found a 105 amp, 3 wire ACDelco S10 alternator with voltage regulator, diode trio, and rectifier internal in the alternator on ebay for $53. It came from D&B Electrical. It's brand new, not refurbished as most are today from the parts stores.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Doug H. said:


> Hope someone can answer a problem I am having with my John Deere 2320 compact utility tractor. My battery is not getting charged during operation. Had the battery checked out at two different auto parts stores and they both said the battery is good. Check the voltage at the battery while the tractor is running at full RPM and it reads 11.8 volts. Took the alternator to a specialty shop and was told the alternator is good, producing 13 to 14 volts. With no helping knowledge from John Deere Service Dealer as to where the Voltage Regulator is located or the Diodes, I was on my own, but found them mounted behind the engine cowling cover. John Deere Service couldn't check the Voltage Regulator, nor could they tell me how to check it out with a volt meter, they just want me to change parts instead. Before I would buy a new regulator, I wanted to check the Diode first, another pain in the butt to find, but eventually I found it. Contacted a service manager at a dealer on how to test and was told the outside post to post would read infinity, but place the positive lead of the meter on the center post of the Diode and the Negative lead on either outside posts and it should read continuity. It was infinity all way around, so I ordered in new Diode. When I went to the dealer to pick it up I checked it out on the counter first with a meter, but it read the same as the one I was replacing. Needless to say I did not buy the new Diode. Does anyone know how to properly check out procedure for both the Diode and Voltage Regulator. The Voltage Regulator in a part number # M807915 and the Diode number # LVU804171. The Diode looks like a typical auto plugin fuse, but instead of two posts, there are three and the body is non transparent. I would appreciate anyone's feedback with knowledge on checking these two items out.



I found the links. I'll try to transfer here. Very good information.

https://alternatorparts.com/sitemap.html

https://alternatorparts.com/how-to-identify-your-gm-alternator.html


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hello Ed. Thank you for your response to my issue. The alternator, part # AM879144, is not like an auto alternator and is thinner. It is just two wires, not three. I did take the alternator to a Alternator shop to be tested and was told it was good. They could not check the Voltage Regulator though. The Alternator shop said the Alternator puts out A/C volts and goes to the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier which converts the A/C volts to DC voltage. Unlike auto regulators, the Diode is external in this case.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Doug H. said:


> Hello Ed. Thank you for your response to my issue. The alternator, part # AM879144, is not like an auto alternator and is thinner. It is just two wires, not three. I did take the alternator to a Alternator shop to be tested and was told it was good. They could not check the Voltage Regulator though. The Alternator shop said the Alternator puts out A/C volts and goes to the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier which converts the A/C volts to DC voltage. Unlike auto regulators, the Diode is external in this case.


I have never seen a combination voltage regulator/alternator, that's new to me. My tractor came with a 3 amp generator. It now has an ACDelco 105 amp auto alternator. had to swap pulleys so I could use the heavier 5/8 tractor belt. Shafts are the same size, reused top tensioner bracket but had to modify the bottom bracket to fit. I also drilled out the bottom hole in the alternator to use a 1/2 bolt. Convert if you can. Auto alternators are less than 1/2 price of tractor alternators even though they are made by the same company. You can save install costs by using a self exciting 1 wire alternator. I personally don't like these as there is a 1 to 1-1/2 volt drop thru the wiring and the system never achieves the design voltage of 14 volts at the terminal block, or the battery full charge. With a diesel, that small difference can make a big difference in starter crank speed and motor starting. The test procedure I sent should still apply. Good Luck.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hello Ed, thanks for your feedback again. The alternator is completely separate from the Voltage Regulator, but the Voltage Regulator is also referred to as a Rectifier too. I have to look at whether or not I can put a auto type alternator in the tractor, but with that said, the existing alternator is good and putting out 13 to 14 volts. The problem is either the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier or the separate Diode in the circuit. I need to pinpoint the component that is actually bad verses just buying components and replacing with no promise it would fix the situation. John Deere has a terrible technical assistance, none, for owners of there tractors and there dealer service network do not even have the answers or know there tractors components or locations. I'll keep plugging away, hopefully, with help, I will find the issue.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Doug H. said:


> Hello Ed, thanks for your feedback again. The alternator is completely separate from the Voltage Regulator, but the Voltage Regulator is also referred to as a Rectifier too. I have to look at whether or not I can put a auto type alternator in the tractor, but with that said, the existing alternator is good and putting out 13 to 14 volts. The problem is either the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier or the separate Diode in the circuit. I need to pinpoint the component that is actually bad verses just buying components and replacing with no promise it would fix the situation. John Deere has a terrible technical assistance, none, for owners of there tractors and there dealer service network do not even have the answers or know there tractors components or locations. I'll keep plugging away, hopefully, with help, I will find the issue.


See if you have an alternator repair shop in your area. They are about the only ones with the special units to test voltage regulators. They could also test the diodes and rectifiers. Normally, they charge a small fee to cover their time, but are much easier to work with than a dealership. Our local JD and NH dealerships don't have a clue on electrical components. They farm that out to a repair service in Lexington, so I go to the same repair service, about 25 minutes away, and skip the double markup. Good luck in your diagnosis and repair.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

To work out your problem, you need a wiring schematic, the other way would be to follow the colour codes of the wiring, which would be a bit of a drag, I have searched and I cannot find a schematic at all, the regulator should be a combination regulator, rectifier and heat sink all in one unit, and this should convert the AC voltage from the alternator to DC, I have never come across a 3 pin diode before, and doing a search on your part number makes me believe that the 2 outside pins are in and the centre pin is out, have you tried placing the positive probe on either of the outside pins and the black negative probe on the middle pin?, if this is a diode, you should get a reading on the first suggestion and nothing on the second.

I cannot find any information on the diode neither, I was chasing the pin info, seems like this is not available neither.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I found this and is supposed to be for the 2320 JD, have a look at diode V4 just to the right of middle and towards the bottom, this 3 way diode controls the fuel shutoff solenoid as best as I can see, and has nothing to do with the charging circuit, that is if your JD is diesel powered.

Even has some colour codes for the wiring.

Save this to desktop if you have a computer and you will be able to enlarge the schematic to get a better view of the traces.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Doug H. said:


> ...Contacted a service manager at a dealer on how to test and was told the outside post to post would read infinity, but place the positive lead of the meter on the center post of the Diode and the Negative lead on either outside posts and it should read continuity. It was infinity all way around, so I ordered in new Diode. When I went to the dealer to pick it up I checked it out on the counter first with a meter, but it read the same as the one I was replacing. Needless to say I did not buy the new Diode. Does anyone know how to properly check out procedure for both the Diode and Voltage Regulator...



Do you have a wiring diagram?

Looking at the wiring harnesses (assuming american market), there are two diodes of this type on the tractor:
https://avs.parts/deere/catalog/2320-tractor-39082/217517/
https://avs.parts/deere/catalog/2320-tractor-39082/217517/446097/
https://avs.parts/deere/catalog/2320-tractor-39082/217517/446102/

Edit***
Correction
The two diodes on the rear half harness seem to be single diodes.
There are two double diodes on the front half harness.
***

We do not know what is inside that casing with three pins coming out of it. Judging by the advice you got about how to test it, I think it has two diodes inside. I also think that the cathodes are common on the middle pin (see picture).

The arrows shows the direction of the current flow a diode admits.
The current can only flow from the outer legs to the middle pin.

Try and reverse the test leads:
Positive lead from meter on an outer pin, and negative lead from meter on middle pin, should give continuity.
All other combinations should give an open circuit.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Ed Williams said:


> See if you have an alternator repair shop in your area. They are about the only ones with the special units to test voltage regulators. They could also test the diodes and rectifiers. Normally, they charge a small fee to cover their time, but are much easier to work with than a dealership. Our local JD and NH dealerships don't have a clue on electrical components. They farm that out to a repair service in Lexington, so I go to the same repair service, about 25 minutes away, and skip the double markup. Good luck in your diagnosis and repair.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Thanks Ed.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

FredM said:


> To work out your problem, you need a wiring schematic, the other way would be to follow the colour codes of the wiring, which would be a bit of a drag, I have searched and I cannot find a schematic at all, the regulator should be a combination regulator, rectifier and heat sink all in one unit, and this should convert the AC voltage from the alternator to DC, I have never come across a 3 pin diode before, and doing a search on your part number makes me believe that the 2 outside pins are in and the centre pin is out, have you tried placing the positive probe on either of the outside pins and the black negative probe on the middle pin?, if this is a diode, you should get a reading on the first suggestion and nothing on the second.
> 
> I cannot find any information on the diode neither, I was chasing the pin info, seems like this is not available neither.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

*Hello Fred, thanks for your response. Yes, you can see the frustration I have been going through in getting information on this tractor, especially when the authorized dealers can not answer it either and can't find information on their service adviser app. On my parts search I did find an explosion diagram of the alternator if I wanted to rebuild it and all that is inside the alternator is the stater coil, that's it, nothing else. The Voltage Regulator/ Rectifier is separate from the alternator, in my case it was mounted behind cowling cover below the steering wheel. Their are two diodes on the front half of the wire harness and one is for the charging circuit and the other is for the fuel solenoid. I only found the one diode so far and I am assuming it's the one for the charging circuit as it was along side the Regulator. I have tested the leads of my meter in every configuration and all registered the same reading, infinity. One dealer service manage read the testing instruction and stated the positive lead goes on the center diode post and the negative lead on either of the outside posts. However, the brand new diode reading was no different than the one I had, so I did not buy it. As I stated, I already tested the alternator and it is good. I do not know how you found the wire diagram, but thank you, that's great! Better than whats on the JD web site. I greatly appreciate it.*


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hacke said:


> Do you have a wiring diagram?
> 
> Looking at the wiring harnesses (assuming american market), there are two diodes of this type on the tractor:
> https://avs.parts/deere/catalog/2320-tractor-39082/217517/
> ...





Hacke said:


> Do you have a wiring diagram?
> 
> Looking at the wiring harnesses (assuming american market), there are two diodes of this type on the tractor:
> https://avs.parts/deere/catalog/2320-tractor-39082/217517/
> ...


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hello Hacke, thanks for your response. I sent a reply back to Fred and I did try my meter leads in all configurations prior to the instructions I got from a service manager. I am waiting on a reply from another JD service manager who might be able to run tests on the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier and Diode. Thanks for the links too, I found them before during a search too, but you still have to search for them through all the wire wrap bundles. I found the one diode and it was within 4" of the Regulator, so I am pretty sure its for the charging circuit because the tractor still runs with the Diode removed and based on a You Tube video I watched regarding the tractor not running it was a bad Diode to the fuel solenoid, so with me removing the Diode next to the Regulator the tractor still runs, which that kind of rules out its the Diode to the fuel solenoid. At least I hope so. In any case, what a pain in the butt!!!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It is hard to give a good advice without a wiring diagram, but I think the diode could be for the exciting wire to the alternator. If so, it is there to avoid drainage of the battery when the tractor is not in use. If a diode with that purpose is dead, you will not get a proper charging. Do you have charging light on the dash? Is it glowing before start?

Testing with a multimeter has it flaws. Take a 12V battery and a bulb instead and test if the diode conducts between an outer pin and the middle. Choose a "weak" bulb, say 3-5W.

We do not know if both diodes has to do with the charging, but if only one works, try to insert it both ways (if possible).


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hello Hacke. I checked the battery/charging light as you mentioned. The battery/charge light comes on before starting the engine. After the engine starts the indicator light goes off and remains off when the RPM throttle is moved all the way up. According to the manual, if the light remained on after starting then the alternator output is too low and if it remains on after increasing the RPM and it still remains on, turn the engine off. So based on this, the Battery/Charging is working properly. As for the multi-meter, I used my professional Fluke digital meter and also used an analog meter on the Diode and the results are the same. I will look at what you suggested to do on the Diode. It appears that it is looking more and more that the alternator is good, especially since the alternator shop said it was good. So that leaves the Voltage Regulator/Rectifier or Diode is bad, although it appears on the wiring diagram that there is also a Relay in the circuit, so it's a process of elimination. There should be an easier way of testing these components to determined if they are bad or good. Thanks again for your feedback!!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I have educated myself a bit...
The alternator is merely a dynamo, like the gadget used on bicycles for lights. The rotor is a permanent magnet and the energy supplied is only dependent on the speed of the alternator. The regulator cannot "boost" the alternator under load, it rectifies and regulates what is delivered. No exciting, no regulating.

You say the alternator was tested and found OK, but that was not together with your regulator?
The naked alternator produces AC that later is rectified to DC, and the AC should be about double the desired DC voltage (depending on how the AC is measured).

I have seen information about problems like yours where the glow plug relay/circuit was the culprit. The alternator is 20A, and is primary meant to be a battery charger. If the glow plugs (or other loads) are constantly drawing power from the alternator, it might not be able to hold the voltage.

Charge the battery first.
Disconnect the feed for the glow plugs and test the battery voltage. If that does not give you a good result, see if there is some other load by putting a clamp ampere meter on a battery cable and watch if there is a draw.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hello Hacke. I went to a John Deere dealer in Colorado Springs and I told service manager what the alternator was putting out during the test and he said that was correct. He also had a tech check the Diode and that turned out to be good too. He said that 90% of the time the Voltage Regulator is bad. He printed off a test procedure from the JD service adviser app for the regulator and I tested it tonight. Based on the readings from six pins in six different positions I am not getting the resistance ratings that the paperwork said it should be and pins that should read infinity are reading resistance. So based on that, it appears the service manager was correct about the regulator being bad. Before I order a new regulator online I will try your suggestion and see what I get. Thanks for your suggestion.


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## D1rider (Dec 31, 2019)

I'm having same problem, not sure what motor you have,I have yanmar diesel 2002 which JD uses on some tractors, same alternator setup & separate regulator /rectifier combo heat sink set up.I replaced both reg & alt , no changes, reg can be found for $25 eBay/ amazon.I have read alt are very reliable unless a bearing goes out, simple magnet unit.Hopefully you figure this out .Keep us posted .Now I have to check my diodes which I have had not much time to do .. ps.. I'll post if I figure it out,


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hello D1rider. My John Deere is a 2320 compact utility tractor, year 2010 and it is a 24 HP Yanmar diesel engine. I don't know if you had the opportunity to read my previous posts, but I took my alternator to a shop to be tested and it is good. I was pretty much sure it would be a bad diode as my Fluke 333 digital meter was not registering any resistance or continuity no matter what configuration I tested on the diode three legs or what meter leads, positive or negative. I took my components to a different JD dealer in Colorado Springs. It turned out that my Fluke meter reads continuity when the leads are touched, but does not register resistance. Another problem I got to fix now!! There meter registered resistance on both outside legs to the center leg. Beware, another JD dealer, told me that the positive lead has to be on the center leg and the negative lead on either outside leg or else it will not read. Well that was not the case either as this dealer tech used the positive on either outside legs and the negative on the center. Your diode could be different since it's older model tractor. The best way I can describe my diode is that it looks like a flat plug in automotive fuse, but its three legs instead of two and its an OEM part only, no after market available. Oh, one more thing, the JD harness diagram says their are two diodes on the front half wire harness, but according to this service manager he said that is wrong, there are eight diodes and their hidden inside the cable wrap. What BS! Need to find who is responsible for that and get a rope!! So now I eliminated the alternator and diode as the problem. He printed off a test procedure using an ohm meter to check regulator so I can test it at home. Using a different meter I did the test and the regulator is bad. I looked on Amazon and Ebay and order a new regulator for $27.00. FYI, I could of ordered one for as low as $20, however, even though it is listed with the part number and they look like the regulator that is in my tractor, the photo's show both the color wires do not match up to the harness plug locations, nor the order in which they enter the regulator. Now I realize those could be just generic stock photo's, but with all the trouble I am going through I do not need to go through further frustration with a regulator that does not match what I have on my bad regulator. The regulator I bought matches identically to what mine is, according to the photo's, but that does not guarantee that's what will be sent. If not, it goes back, I do not need more issues of my own doing. Remember, there are a least two diodes on the front half of the harness and possible more according to the service manager I talked to. Your year and model tractor could, and most likely will be completely different from my set up. The only thing we will probably have in common is that it will be a pain in the butt, to not only find the diodes, but to find and fix the problem. Good luck!


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Sorry for the bloviation!!


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Doug H, if you somehow got the schematic for the charging side of the circuit, I would be interested in seeing this, would you be able to attach this to the forum page please ??.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

FredM said:


> Doug H, if you somehow got the schematic for the charging side of the circuit, I would be interested in seeing this, would you be able to attach this to the forum page please ??.


Ditto, as well as the instructions for testing the regulator. Put them in the "Manuals" section.



Just a thought, you could make a test gadget of two "generic" diodes. Solder their kathodes together and you have the three legs. When you find a three-legged diode in the harness, you can replace it with the gadget and see if the problem is solved.

I think that the pin configuration of the diodes is the same as on a three-legged fuse. It might be possible to use one of those for testing, but that might be risky since there can be current going to places were it should not.

All these diodes! I suppose it has to do with having less wires in the harness.,There is not a lot of functions on a tractor like this, so there would not be that much of wires if they had made it "the traditional way".


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## D1rider (Dec 31, 2019)

I found testing regulator somewhere ?, googled "yanmar,"in fact I don't have a Johndeere,but when I google JD keeps popping up & wiring schematics too.I have a Gehl mini X made in Austria but uses Japan Yanmar motor & Japan Kokasan[common & the best] electronics ,I'm sure Deeres are pretty much same.


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## D1rider (Dec 31, 2019)

maybe this


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

FredM said:


> Doug H, if you somehow got the schematic for the charging side of the circuit, I would be interested in seeing this, would you be able to attach this to the forum page please ??.


Hello Fred. I will see if I can get the dealer to print out a charging circuit diagram, but keep in mind, John Deere technical support to the consumer and there dealers is terrible. For a renowned brand name, they leave a lot to be desired for the support.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

To all who may be interested, I attached three photo's of the John Deere #LVU804171 Diode. When testing with an ohm meter, positive lead on either outside leg and negative lead on center leg. I hope the images up load!


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Well success on up loading the Diode photo's, so here's a photo of the John Deere #AM879144 Alternator on the JD 2320. Fred M, you said you never seen a 2 wire alternator, well here you go.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

This is a photo of a John Deere #M807915 Voltage Regulator/Rectifier on a JD 2320. Mounted below the instrument panel and behind the lower cowling cover.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Here is the test procedure for a #M807915 Voltage Regulator/Rectifier on my JD 2320, but I also seen this for Kubota Tractors too.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Doug H. said:


> Hello Fred. I will see if I can get the dealer to print out a charging circuit diagram, but keep in mind, John Deere technical support to the consumer and there dealers is terrible. For a renowned brand name, they leave a lot to be desired for the support.


Hi Doug, that would be great if your dealer would do that, I am interested is following the charging side of the circuit just to see how they fit in a 3 legged diode, its just possible(I'm surmising here) that the 2 wires from the alternator/dynamo connects to the outside pins in the wiring circuit and the middle goes to battery for charging duties, but then the diode is only 1.5amps, so one would feel that the output from the alternator/dynamo would blow the backside out of the diode because of load !!.

I am still going with the regulator/rectifier/heat sink will have this all built in to convert to DC volts.

My Kubota has the Alternator/dynamo setup like yours, with the regulator/rectifier under the dash panel, that system is much older than yours with my tractor being from around 1995.

Thank you so much for your trouble.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

FredM said:


> Hi Doug, that would be great if your dealer would do that, I am interested is following the charging side of the circuit just to see how they fit in a 3 legged diode, its just possible(I'm surmising here) that the 2 wires from the alternator/dynamo connects to the outside pins in the wiring circuit and the middle goes to battery for charging duties, but then the diode is only 1.5amps, so one would feel that the output from the alternator/dynamo would blow the backside out of the diode because of load !!.
> 
> I am still going with the regulator/rectifier/heat sink will have this all built in to convert to DC volts.
> 
> ...


I think the low current (1.5A) indicates that these diodes are used for relay coil circuitry, such as freewheeling diodes and just to have less wiring. This is the case for "V4 Diode" in the diagram you attached in post #9. The single "V2 Diode" is also a freewheeling diode.

The prices I have found for the LVU804171 are around $20, which is ridiculous.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I have this diagram, which I think is for a Kubota. It has the same alternator/rectifier/regulator setup as the John Deere in question. No diodes here, but it shows the connection for the regulator, R is rectified and regulated current for charging the battery. Y is power from the key switch, which turns on and powers the regulator. The voltage is probably sensed internally between Y and B.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

FredM said:


> Hi Doug, that would be great if your dealer would do that, I am interested is following the charging side of the circuit just to see how they fit in a 3 legged diode, its just possible(I'm surmising here) that the 2 wires from the alternator/dynamo connects to the outside pins in the wiring circuit and the middle goes to battery for charging duties, but then the diode is only 1.5amps, so one would feel that the output from the alternator/dynamo would blow the backside out of the diode because of load !!.
> 
> I am still going with the regulator/rectifier/heat sink will have this all built in to convert to DC volts.
> 
> ...


No worries mate, I will see what I can do this week. Stay safe down under!


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hacke said:


> I think the low current (1.5A) indicates that these diodes are used for relay coil circuitry, such as freewheeling diodes and just to have less wiring. This is the case for "V4 Diode" in the diagram you attached in post #9. The single "V2 Diode" is also a freewheeling diode.
> 
> The prices I have found for the LVU804171 are around $20, which is ridiculous.


Tell me about it, some dealers are charging $25 for the sucker. Problem is, it's OEM and you have to get it through a JD dealer. That's not the only thing their proud of either, there alternator is $479, yet you can find the same alternator online as low as $49. Same goes on the rectifier to.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hacke said:


> I have this diagram, which I think is for a Kubota. It has the same alternator/rectifier/regulator setup as the John Deere in question. No diodes here, but it shows the connection for the regulator, R is rectified and regulated current for charging the battery. Y is power from the key switch, which turns on and powers the regulator. The voltage is probably sensed internally between Y and B.
> View attachment 54687


It will be interesting to see if the JD diagram is similar, other than the fact this diagram does not show the Diodes. The wiring diagram you posted on thread #9 shows five V4 diodes. Just goes to show, the more crap you put in there the more things can fail. Just keep it simple, this is not rocket science. Won't be long before they put a computer control box in these, if they do that, then they'll make a diagnostic reader that can pinpoint the problem.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

They do Doug and only JD can read them, I would have thought your 2320 had a computer board!!, maybe not and you are the lucky one then.

Thanks for the thought, we will do our best, I should give you and yours the best and stay out of harms way.



Hacke said:


> I have this diagram, which I think is for a Kubota. It has the same alternator/rectifier/regulator setup as the John Deere in question. No diodes here, but it shows the connection for the regulator, R is rectified and regulated current for charging the battery. Y is power from the key switch, which turns on and powers the regulator. The voltage is probably sensed internally between Y and B.
> View attachment 54687


Thanks Hacke, I have saved this to desktop and as yet I am unable to enlarge the page so I can read the traces, usually the rectifier carries the diodes.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

FredM said:


> They do Doug and only JD can read them, I would have thought your 2320 had a computer board!!, maybe not and you are the lucky one then.
> 
> Thanks for the thought, we will do our best, I should give you and yours the best and stay out of harms way.
> 
> ...


There is a quality loss when an image file is uploaded/downloaded, I put another copy here for download:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5t03m3ieidw7b4m/diagram.jpg?dl=0

Now I see, there is one diode in that diagram, #16. But that is nothing compared to the diode bonanza in the JD diagram.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Hacke said:


> There is a quality loss when an image file is uploaded/downloaded, I put another copy here for download:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5t03m3ieidw7b4m/diagram.jpg?dl=0
> 
> Now I see, there is one diode in that diagram, #16. But that is nothing compared to the diode bonanza in the JD diagram.


Thanks Hacke, one diode but plenty of relays and sensor switches, agree with you about the JD schematic.


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## Denver (Mar 30, 2020)

Doug H. said:


> voltage at the battery while the tractor is running at full RPM and it reads 11.8 volts. You have a bad battery. A new battery will be 12.65 volts, have to read at least 12 volts to be at border line. Put a load test on the alternator, turn lights etc on then text output. Most alternators will be around 14, to 14.5 volts.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

To all here is the latest up date. I received the new regulator Saturday and the wire layout was identical to the OEM that was bad. As I stated earlier, that was a concern for me as most of the photo's of that part number regulator for sale did not match my bad regulator both at the harness plug and where it entered the regulator. Before installing the new regulator, I wanted to ohm out the regulator to see if it matched what the test sheet readings called for. IT DIDN'T, in fact it was the same reading as my OEM regulator. That bummed me out. Monday I took both regulators to the JD dealer to have them test them. Using there meter, it not only matched what I was reading with my meter, but it also read resistance on other legs that mine did not. So what the JD adviser test procedure ohm readings called for was nowhere close to what we where actually getting. The service manager had no explanation for this other than the new regulator is also bad, so he wanted to check a new one from there parts dept, but they did not have one in stock. He suggested that I try it anyway in my tractor, so in order to return it for credit I had to get creative so it did not show wear on the six male spades in the harness. All the spades had tiny holes towards the ends, so I used 16 gauge stranded wire to feed through each hole, twist the wire tight and tape around each to prevent short. On the opposite ends I crimped male spade connectors, then connected them into the female harness, started the tractor and I was getting 14.8 volts to the battery. Hallelujah, my problem is fixed, the regulator/rectifier was the problem. What a freakin nightmare, especially since the information on how to test the Diode and Regulator where completely worthless. 
I attached two photo's showing the Regulator mounted under the instrument console, also you will see red tape I put on the Diode. The other photo shows a bank of relays next to the Regulator with the steering column in front.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

Hello Denver. Thanks for your input. The battery was taken to two different parts stores and both said the battery is good. The reason why it read 11.8, it was 12.4 before I started it, is because I wasn't getting charging voltage to the battery. Now with a new Voltage Regulator/Rectifier installed I am getting 14.8 volts at the battery.


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## Doug H. (Mar 21, 2020)

FredM said:


> They do Doug and only JD can read them, I would have thought your 2320 had a computer board!!, maybe not and you are the lucky one then.
> 
> Thanks for the thought, we will do our best, I should give you and yours the best and stay out of harms way.
> 
> ...


FredM, talking to the JD service manager Monday I brought up the computer board. You right, but it's currently only in the the big farm tractors. He was saying these tractors do not need to be manned, it does everything on its own with GPS, however he said the farmer has to meet it at the end of the field to turn it around, but he did say they will soon have that figured out to eliminate that. So much for Bloomberg's statement he can teach anyone to farm, you just dig a hole and plant your seed and your a farmer. That may of been the case a 100 years ago, but not anymore. Hell, in our life time we will eventually see robot humanoids harvesting the fields, so much for migrant workers, so much for all the workers in every field of work, they already been using robotics doing delicate brain surgery. Terminator is just around the corner! LOL


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Can't say I have heard of the larger tractor being driver-less yet, I have heard that some of the large dumpies that will be used at mines are going driver-less and automatic.

You might find a lot of smaller tractors do have computers on board, I have read many posts on this tractor forum with people asking what this #### trouble code number means and there are a lot of JD's in this equation.

You are one of the lucky ones to not have a PCB and chip mate.


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