# Ford 8N Won't Start-No Spark



## KCSchulte

I acquired a 8N (side distributor) with 12 volt conversion a few years back and worked great until the past few months until it became more difficult to start and now wont start at all. I have no spark. I have used the test light circuit tester and have voltage to the positive terminal of the coil but have a very dim light to the negative terminal of coil and coil side of resistor. I have no light on tester at distributor and distributor side of resistor. Would this be a bad coil or could the wiring be bad? Should the voltage at the positive side of the coil be around 12v (just got a multimeter and plan to test later today). I'd appreciate any feedback and help!


----------



## FredM

To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one. The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range.

KCSchulte if you get a much higher resistance reading, the coil will be unserviceable and if you get no reading at all, the windings will be classed as open and the coil will be a dud.

if the coil checks out, check the lead from the negative pole on the coil to the distributor connection, then check the small tail from there to the points for open also, sometimes with age, the internal copper wire will fracture with the movement and vibration, check the contact faces for a polished look, if corroded and rough this will give you problems also, if the contacts are not pitted to much, you can file them and then regap to the correct clearance, and last, if the condenser is crook, this will give you no start too.

you wouldn't have another 12 volt ignition coil laying around somewhere that you could use to check out the original coil ??.

geez !! just had a thought, if you try and check the ignition with the key in the run position, you will get a lower voltage reading from the resistor to the distributor, you will have to get someone to hold the key in the start position to get a full voltage reading through to the distributor and points, disconnect the started wire from the solenoid if you try this.


----------



## KCSchulte

Well it seems it one problem after another. I ended up replacing the coil and now have a nice blue spark. I have a good flow of gas but still no start. Now I'm getting a puff of air out the air intake while attempting to start. Would you think this is a compression problem?


----------



## BigT

Hello KCSchulte, welcome to the tractor forum.

You might try giving it a shot of starting fluid (ether) to see if it will start. OR try tow-starting it. If it is cranking real slow, you lose too much compression on the up stroke. If this is the case, clean battery and ground connections. Is the battery old? Maybe the starter has seen its better days? The starter solenoid contacts may be dropping voltage due to burned/corroded contacts.


----------



## pogobill

Hmm, is the gas tank full or nearly full? My 8n's are fussy about having enough fuel in the tank for the gravity feed..... Or maybe you have old bad gas in there


----------



## FredM

KCSchulte said:


> Well it seems it one problem after another. I ended up replacing the coil and now have a nice blue spark. I have a good flow of gas but still no start. Now I'm getting a puff of air out the air intake while attempting to start. Would you think this is a compression problem?


KCSchulte : If you are getting blowback through the carby intake, I would be checking the valve clearances, this puff of air you mention, does this sound more like a plut!! with maybe a bit of smoke ??.

If the valve clearances are ok, I would place each cylinder on compression/firing stroke so both valves are seated and then use a light hammer and tap the rockers over the valves in each cylinder on compression, you only need enough force to bounce the valve off the seat a few times, if there is a bit of carbon caught in the seat area, this may get rid of it, rough I know, but it does work at times and saves having to remove the cylinder head.

Another thought !!, while you have the tappet cover off, this would be a good time to check the timing of the distributor and the camshaft just in case something may have shifted.


----------

