# Picking up on Small engine 101



## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

I joined up actually to help others out with lawntractor problems, ive collected and tinkered on tractors now for about 18 years - a great hobby ive had over the years and all basically self taught ( least i tell my wife jokingly it keeps me from going to bars, plus she can keep tabs on me in the back yard - LOL! ) 

I put recycling to the test- i keep ALL my old clunker tractors and spare parts now ( i ditched a bunch of stuff when we moved here - i STILL kick myself for doing it) - actually saves me money in the long run and keeps stuff out of the landfills.


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## Mahindra One (Aug 4, 2006)

About 5 years ago I decided I wanted to learn small engine repair. At the time I was living in town and read that the local community college was offering classes. Unfortunately, the classes were in the worst possible neighborhood and on top of that they were in the evening at a time when it was getting dark at 6pm. Being older now, I chose not to take any chances. I'd still like very much to learn. I'm tired carrying my lawnmower in for repair only to be told things like theres is water in the gas!

RLee


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Mahindra One: The best way to learn small engines/lawntractors - buy an old clunker mower and try to repair it yourself. I still havent gotten into actually rebuilding motors, but ive done everything else- i have a couple parts motors id like to get going someday and see what happens.

Id locate a cheep one off craigslist, then research data/diagrams/parts lists ( off the data plates on the motor and chassis ), and take your time rebuilding it - once its finished and running, can sell it and buy another one.

Believe it or not, the majority of my tractors came from freinds and co workers when i started out, the highest i ever paid for one is $100- the least amount was free - average price i pay is around $25-$50 - most are in pretty rough shape in that price range - so i either rebuild it or use it for parts for the next one. Ive had perks with a few- i bot this MTD tractor for $25 ( ran but needed an oil seal) and he gave me a rebuilt deck for it and a parts craftsman tractor for free.

Best advice i have is to take pictures/drawings of what it is youre taking apart ( with linkages, belt pathways, springs) - otherwise youll be totally lost when it comes time to reassemble it.


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## Mahindra One (Aug 4, 2006)

That's not only good advice, but doing so would be quite entertaining. I have a friend who bought an old Snapper. Tried mowing rocks, etc. It's been sitting for several months. Bet he would part with it for little. Thanks again.


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## rj'sbarn (Jul 30, 2008)

miscategorized post. my bad


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## TeamCheap (Dec 22, 2009)

Yep this is a great forum and I just got irked one day and started this post.
I always get over the idiots that do that.

OK so for a crazy but not original idea I want to make a 6 wheeled garden type tractor that would be 4wd in the back.Probably use 8" rims all the way around with lug tires on all 6.

I have a Briggs 18 twin that runs good that I plan to use.I need to find a matching transaxle to one of the ones I already have to have a matched pair in the back.

I'd sit right over the front axle and engine (scary) but I want the room in back for a flatbed (W/winch) big enough to load on another tractor or ATV.Also have one of those pickup crane lifts mounted to it to lift various heavy parts and stuff.

No mower deck but maybe a blade and snow blower.


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## rj'sbarn (Jul 30, 2008)

Use some salvage yard chevy S-10 rear axles to simplify the drive coupling for the rear 4wd. Single counter shaft and some motorcycle chain would handle all you could throw at that engine. Hinge the front and make it an articulator. Heavy lug tires are more common in 15" sizes too.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

TeamCheep: Anything is possible - youll need to do alot of fabrication and trial and error in order for it to work.

Id say go with an all new 2" steel C channel for the frame ( youll want it strong) , that way you can make it longer ( so you wont need to sit on the engine). Id ditch the transaxles and go with a peerless 700 ( lower input and side sprocket output) IF the motor is a verticle shaft. Could run a chain down to one axle and another chain from it to the back axle.

Id use heavy duty pillow blocks for berings ( i get mine from northern tools) and straight axles for the back ( steering would be tougher- but youd have max traction). Id go with all AG tires or chains on the back stocker tires.

My plan ( some year) for a true 4x4 lawntractor is a 90's GT6000- a horizontal shaft twin cylender, stock 3 speed hi low trans in back, a 69 wheelhorse 3 hi/low trans in front ( with large ujoints on the axle ends) and custom made carriers for the ujoints. 

Id use 4 of the large stock GT rear tires on it ( front and back) - having to lift the tractor to have the wheels clear the hood ( id also have to make spacers to make the rear wheels sit out a bit further for stability).

The theory is to use the horizontal shaft motor sideways - one side of the shaft running the original rear trans- the other side would keep the electric deck clutch - id need a jackshaft to run the setup over to the other side ( both transmissions have input shafts on the right side) - my plan to do that is to have multiple gears on both axles, or just disconnect the front trans for 2 wheel drive ( shut off clutch and shift to neutral) - only real issues i see are how to bring both shift levers out of the body to shift the front trans and setup the steering.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Mahindra One: Thats cool - itd be a good starter project- theyre easy to work on. 

Few years ago i got a pretty rotten rusted out Snapper tractor free, motor ran but deck was all eaten up with rust. I ended up junking it, and ironically afterwards i got a bunch of tractor parts from a local guy and it included a brand new snapper deck- i couldve rebuilt it and sold it ( im not a big fan of RER tractors).

The one i know is a pain on them is the drive system ( on tractors)- it uses a pulley with rubber on it to drive the tractor, they wear out pretty easy.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

I have a Generac generator that has always been very hard to start, and if it's cold out....forget it, it isn't starting until you bring it in the house to warm it up, then it will start. I wondered if that would be a matter of a carb adjustment or can the magnito be adjusted for a hotter spark? I'm going to check the sediment bowl and try tinkering with the carb here soon, as we already bought a new generator, I have nothing to loose I figure. Any suggestions?


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Tractorbeam: Hmm- is it electric start? Or pull start? My dads generator is always a bear to start- right from day one- i cant remember what make it is tho at the moment. 

If its possible ( and if you have one) - id keep it in the garage, specially during cold weather. Id agree with you checking the carb- id also drain the gas out ( id do it everytime after youre done with it as well) - you might want to add an extra inline fuel filter to it. Its possible it couldve gotten stale or water in it between fill ups.

Id try maybe a slightly hotter plug before tinkering with the electrical setup ( auto parts should be able to get you one). 

All in all, its definitly still work keeping - can keep one to run the fridge n freezer- the other to run stuff ( heat if no woodstove) in the house- or just to keep stuff on while refueling the other one.

I bit the bullet and bot a $200 8HP 3500 watt generator from Aldi's - its a chinese built one ( i know- shame on me...- figured if the motor goes can buy a briggs motor) a few months ago - just to run the fridge n freezer if the power goes out. 

So i opened the box, went thru and did my 'pre prep' to it ( sprayed PB blaster in the combustion chamber), added SAE 30 weight pennzoil to it , a little fresh gas and said "Here goes!" - unbelievably the second pull, NO choke and it fired right off and ran really amzazingly good. I put a load on the motor/generator a few times - for about an hour - adjusted its idle automatically till the gas ran out. I changed the oil, put fresh in, put some gas in, and again this time first pull fired right off. I cycled it again till the gas ran out of the carb and let it cool off before storing it in my shed- my next day off i should go out n fire it up again ( should run em a few times when they sit).


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

That's the way the new Honda is. It fires right up with the starter or the recoil. The Generac on the other hand, has no starter, just the recoil, and has been a hard starter right from the get go. I just keep on cranking it and eventually it starts up, but if you try it in very cold weather, it won't fire at all. Ever! I should maybe check to see that the choke fully closes. With the new generator here now, I'm not too concerned about the Generac, which has a Suzuki motor on it, being too reliable. It's just a trasher in essence and one to loan out if a friend needs a generator for something. That's how the front panal got broke, when one of my life long friends borrowed it for a camping trip. I have a big stump that I need to get some holes drilled in for eleminating the eye sore, and was thinking about running 600 feet of cord (yes, I actually have that much cords!) out to the stump, then just decided to get this Generac in top notch condition and haul that out there instead. I'll be keeping you all up to speed on this project as I figure it all out.


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## rsmith335 (Jun 2, 2010)

TB you have a Southern generator. I think your chocke is screwed up. Put a bag over the air breather ( not your wife ) and try to pull start and see what happens. ( don't seal off completly )


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