# New Owner Of John Deere 316--Questions...



## Tractor Goat

I just picked up a nice JD 316 lawn tractor. Owner tells me it's an '85 or '86. Newer paint job, everything is solid....except.....

1) The deck JUST stopped working on me. It won't engage. The PTO switch doesn't feel like it's 'grabbing'. Just today, the deck wasn't moving as the switch was 'on'....suddenly, it started working again. After 20-minutes, it stopped working. Now it won't egage. What's that about?

2) It has a bit of white smoke when I start it. Plus, it doesn't start at the 'turn of the key'. I have to keep the key depressed for several seconds--the engines 'squeals' a bit to fire up.

3) The hydraulic deck is fussy. I move the deck lift down--it doesn't catch every time. Same when I try to raise it. It's not smooth.

4) I couldn't find a serial number on this tractor. Just an axle number--M85089. How can I tell what year this was built? It's an Onan engine--but what type?

5) I'd like to buy a snow mover for this before winter. Blade or blower? The snow blowers look like a bitch to attach. I like how they shoot snow into the nethersphere!!!

6) This tractor runs hot!!! When I'm mowing with it, I can feel the heat of the engine like no other tractor I've driven. Is this just the way it is? It smells rather 'fuel-like', too. Is this just a trait of this engine?

7) I changed the air filter (the previous was shot)--new battery. Added a bit of hydraulic fluid. I'm guessing I should change the oil too, eh?

9) That goshdarn PTO!!! That's my biggest issue right now.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me. 

Todd


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## Hoodoo Valley

I've a 316 and all manual too! On the operators panel facing your knees near the ignition switch, is the model info tag with all the info on your machine. The engine ID is under the air cleaner sort of. Change the oil especially if you haven't the filter on the block. The valve through the frame makes it easy to change. I gots to go now, but we'll talk further about the other issues unless someone else sounds off. Catch you tomorrow!


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## Hoodoo Valley

The deck by the way, is hydraulic, and is delayed off the control a bit. Also, I had to replace my PTO switch, because it was bad. Might replace that to start with although it could be the air gap also. I'll check the specs for you if I get the time tomorrow. Been working ungodly long hours lately, but will try to walk you through your issues. Be patient!


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## Tractor Goat

thanks for your response. I started up the mower fine yesterday, the PTO engaged as it should--mowed for about an hour. Decided to change the oil afterwards. Now it won't start. The first time I fired it up after changing the oil, it started and ran for about 30 seconds before it died. Now the engine just turns-over---won't fire. Had to push it into the garage overnight. What could I have possibly done wrong? I drained the oil---replaced the oil filter. Refilled it with just under 2 quarts. Tried to start it! I'm frustrated. I can't help but feel I did something wrong during the oil change process.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Have you verified that it has fuel to the carb, and a spark at the plugs? Might have jostled a wire loose in changing the filter. Nearly 2 quarts sounds like a bit much. Mine is a bit over one quart. I have the Onan engine in mine minus the filter though, so that might make the difference.


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## Tractor Goat

I bought a new fuel filter and spark plugs. Changed the fuel filter easy enough--(the one the clerk sold me was MUCH larger and intricate than the one that was on it. It seemed to work ok. Tried to change the spark plugs and in the process learned one of the plugs wasn't secure. Secured it. Started right up. I'm still going to change the spark plugs--probably tomorrow. Seems to be running well. No PTO problems. 

You mentioned your 316 takes only 1 quart of oil--mine calls for 1.7 quarts. Must be a different Onan? The tag near the key switch is gone on my tractor--I have to check the engine number. I think it's an '85? I don't know if it's the P or B Onan.


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## Hoodoo Valley

We have the same motor, just you have the filter whereas mine doesn't, hence the larger oil capacity. I change my oil every mowing, and the side faucet style valve makes it a snap to do. Glad to hear you got it running again! I believe mine is the P43 series. I assume your's is hydrostat drive.


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## MFreund

You should try to adjust the pto clutch. The spec is .020 but many people adjust it down to .015- .018, as the clutch wears the air gap gets too large and causes the clutch to disengage. Adjust the air gap at least two times around as adjusting on 1 may cause the others to change.


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## Waldershrek

tractor beam said:


> I change my oil every mowing, and the side faucet style valve makes it a snap to do.


You change your oil every time you mow!? 


What is your logic behind this?


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## Hoodoo Valley

Well, it takes me a bit over an hour and a half to mow each time. The Onan motor in my machine has no oil filter, and never did, just the brass valve on the side of the block. If you saw how black the oil was that poured out each time, you'd cringe! I figure, oil is super cheap in relation to an engine, and it takes only a bit over a quart. I know that I've had people laugh at my logic, but they have filters on their machines, and mow prestine little golf course lawns, while my machine hits gopher mounds by the hundreds and I cut down Knap weed and dandilions by the bushels! I also spend several minutes each mowing, blowing the motor and machine out with compressed air too, and you should dee the dust and debris that comes out. My mower, is a posterchild for vintage John Deere mowersw no doubt!


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## Waldershrek

Oh. Well I guess that makes more since then if you have no filter. Why would they make a motor with no filter?


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## Hoodoo Valley

I have the manual for my machine, and it states that some of the motors had them, others didn't. I rather prefer not having a filter myself. I just buy a case of oil and it's sure seems cheaper to me and no trips to the dealer for specialized overpriced filters. The big ol brass valve is slick in my opinion!


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## Mickey

As for overheating, the first thing I'd check is for blockage of the cooling air passages from grass clippings.


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## GreenFlyer

Did you check/change the air filter? If it has never been changed and/or is clogged, it will cause the engine to overheat.


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## rsmith335

TB With all of that oil you are changing, I would pour the oil on the yard, then mow, that way your mower deck won't rust. HA HA! Air filters really get dirty in mowers, I use K&N filter oil on the foam outer filter and have found it catches alot of the dirt that would have ended up in the fiber filter. Good luck


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## Hoodoo Valley

rsmith335 said:


> TB With all of that oil you are changing, I would pour the oil on the yard, then mow, that way your mower deck won't rust. HA HA! Air filters really get dirty in mowers, I use K&N filter oil on the foam outer filter and have found it catches alot of the dirt that would have ended up in the fiber filter. Good luck


I think there's enough out of control oil in the gulf without me adding to it! Luck....? I own a green tractor! Things gots to go my way when you mow with a green machine!:lmao:


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## Hoodoo Valley

Just curious how the 316 was treating you TG?


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## dangeroustoys56

PTO clutches are funny things- i was mowing with my GTII the other day and the clutch seemed to slow and speed up - i figured it had to do with 2 things- motor revs and a bad battery connection ( both which ive been aware of)- the throttle has a bit of play in it - so that affects the revs .

Most clutches wired with a relay - sometimes the relay and switch can go bad . A good way to test one( with the tractor OFF ): hook a 12 volt battery ( one lead to positive one to negative) before the relay ( plug directly near the clutch) - when attached to the battery, it should lock on solid - no movement when trying to turn by hand- when releasing the leads- it should turn totally free.

Sometimes they over heat and go bad.

Definitely change the oil - specially more often with motors w/o a oil filter- least a couple times a year or more ( depending on how much its used). 

My motors are all splash types - i just check the oil everytime and when it starts to get dirty/black ( about once a year) - i change it.

I check my air filters once a year - most times they have a bit of dust- i either tap them off or use the air compressor.

My Briggs motors in general tend to run hot no matter what - i usually idle them down, to let the gas drain from the carb after shutting the fuel valve off - that helps cool them off before putting them away.


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## rousch99

my fc420v 14hp kaw alson has no oil filter its on a 1987 240 but my 1990 245 has the same engine and has one


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## Hoodoo Valley

What's funny is that my service manual shows it in the engine. How weird.


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## jimk75

I just got a 318 and had a similar problem with the pto. I adjusted it (I had to keep going around till I got them all correct). I needed a new battery. I would check the tranny fluid (mine was low). Also the pto needs alot of juice so I would make sure the battery is good.


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## mowerman316

316 hydrostat goes faster the more you use it without moving control handle


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## Bigmac88

On my 316 when it's running it sounds like it has a miss in it, what could that possibly be? Also when it is running and you try to put in forward or reverse it wants to die...any suggestions ? Thanks


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## Go-Green

On my 316 kohler, I have gas spitting out the crankcase vent tube. Any ideas how this might happen and what might be causing it?


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## Hoodoo Valley

Go-Green said:


> On my 316 kohler, I have gas spitting out the crankcase vent tube. Any ideas how this might happen and what might be causing it?


Stuck float? I wouldn't run it!


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## ShortandSweet01

where do you drain the oil on a 316 John Deere tractor


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## Hoodoo Valley

ShortandSweet01 said:


> where do you drain the oil on a 316 John Deere tractor


If you have the Onan, then the drain valve handle is on the same side of the motor as the discharge chute on the mower deck. You'll have to access it through a hole in the frame. If it's the Kohler, then I have no idea.


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## jhngardner367

The Kohler drain is usually under the center of the engine,at the rear. Remove the dust screen on the bottom of the frame(if equipped),and you'll see a brass valve.


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## charlottejune

Do you have any knowledge on how to stop a pretty steady drip/leak from the very hard to reach hydraulic hard line connection under the seat? I have tightened it as hard as I can and it drips about a drip a second, which adds up over an hour of use.


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