# Mahindra 6530 Injector removal.



## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

I have a 2010 Mahindra 6530 tier3, 2.5L I need to remove the injectors and get rebuilt. There is fork that hold them in with a small arm that goes down toward the engine. I tried to pull them but they would not budge. I do not know what the fork is for and my manual is unclear as well. Anyone know how to pull them? Thanks.

PS: I have cleaned the tank filter, and replaced the fuel filter 2 times. The engine loosses power and puffs white smoke occasionally when under a load.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

How many meter hours? and where do you get your fuel and do you use any additives?


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## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

There are 1093 hours, I get fuel from Sam's club or Murphy's which I use in my truck as well. I did not use any additives until the problem started and used Lucas. The fuel tank filter has a small amount of gel and more debris on it.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Forget the Lucas, Start using a biocide like PowerService Bio-Kleen. ULSD diesel today has a bad habit of growing algae when it sits for a long period, where as you drive your truck so you turn over the fuel regularly. Bio-Kleen isn't cheap but it works.


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## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

SidecarFlip said:


> Forget the Lucas, Start using a biocide like PowerService Bio-Kleen. ULSD diesel today has a bad habit of growing algae when it sits for a long period, where as you drive your truck so you turn over the fuel regularly. Bio-Kleen isn't cheap but it works.


So I was shocked at the price, and more shocked at the amount used 2 teaspoons per 17 gallons, ssay what? So I added it and followed directions. SO far so good. I need to put it under a load like brush hogging to see if the injectors are good to go. Will let you know.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Good stuff is never cheap. I've used it for years. Had a crud issue with my diesel pickup and it cost me a grand and I did all the work myself


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Forget Sams Club or Murphy. Get your diesel at a volume dealer, like a truck stop.


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## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

So the additive did not work. I need to pull injectors or it is pump issue. Any way to separate the 2 issues?


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Godzilla said:


> So the additive did not work. I need to pull injectors or it is pump issue. Any way to separate the 2 issues?


Biocide is NOT a short term solution. It kills the algae microbes but leaves the exoskeletons behind, so if you have a compromised fuel system, it still needs cleaned out no matter what but once it's clean the biocide will keep it clean. I use it in my farm tractors and diesel trucks constantly. I'm not familiar with a Your tractor but I would imagine you could pull the injector lines from the top of the pump and crank it over and see if they are squirting fuel (and purge the pump that way). My Kubota's both have a small valve on top of the pump that you open to purge the air and fuel out.

Diesels are kind of complex in the fuel delivery system so I'd invest in a shop manual if I were you because it will give you the particulars on your fuel system and how to bleed it and how to remove the injectors as well. I do know with my Kubota's you have to use a small slide hammer to pop out the injectors, loosening the top clamps don't get them out. When it comes to that kind of stuff, I have my dealer pick mine up and let them do it in the shop. Pumps especially are touchy. There are micro honed surfaces inside, not something I'd fool with I don't mine paying a hundred bucks an hour for a qualified trained mechanic-technician to fix mine. They can do it a lot quicker than I can anyway and I don't have to throw parts at it because they know what is wrong. They deal with that stuff every day.

Lots of little parts in the fuel system, little springs and check balls and everything has to go back the way it came out and be torqued properly or it won't run. I take it you have a primary fuel filter, did you change that? My Kubota's have both a primary spin on fuel filter and a clear sediment bowl with a fine mesh strainer inside. If your tractor has the, change the primary filter and wash out the sediment bowl filter with clean diesel and the sediment bowl itself and do that before attempting to remove the injectors and taking the pump apart.

Pretty hard for algae or dead microbes to get past the spin on primary and the sediment bowl strainer before getting into the pump or injectors. What saved my bacon in my diesel pickup. The algae plugged the primary filter but never got to the pump at all or the injectors. I did destroy the lift pump, destroyed the fuel pickup in tank strainer and like I said, a grand in parts and a lot of cussing and now all of them get biocide every tank of fuel. I keep 1000 gallons of diesel on hand all the time (have a bulk storage tank) and it not only fuels the tractors but runs our stationary genset. When I have fuel delivered, I add biocide in the proper amount to the bulk tank. Learned my lesson the hard way.

Star with the easy (and cheap) stuff first which will be the spin on fuel filter and the sediment bowl (if you have one) and then get into the injection pump and injectors but I'd not do that without a shop manual. Like I said, many small parts and critical torque values and lots of '0' rings and copper sealing washers and it all has to go back together a certain way and be torqued properly.


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## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

SidecarFlip said:


> Biocide is NOT a short term solution. It kills the algae microbes but leaves the exoskeletons behind, so if you have a compromised fuel system, it still needs cleaned out no matter what but once it's clean the biocide will keep it clean. I use it in my farm tractors and diesel trucks constantly. I'm not familiar with a Your tractor but I would imagine you could pull the injector lines from the top of the pump and crank it over and see if they are squirting fuel (and purge the pump that way). My Kubota's both have a small valve on top of the pump that you open to purge the air and fuel out.
> 
> Diesels are kind of complex in the fuel delivery system so I'd invest in a shop manual if I were you because it will give you the particulars on your fuel system and how to bleed it and how to remove the injectors as well. I do know with my Kubota's you have to use a small slide hammer to pop out the injectors, loosening the top clamps don't get them out. When it comes to that kind of stuff, I have my dealer pick mine up and let them do it in the shop. Pumps especially are touchy. There are micro honed surfaces inside, not something I'd fool with I don't mine paying a hundred bucks an hour for a qualified trained mechanic-technician to fix mine. They can do it a lot quicker than I can anyway and I don't have to throw parts at it because they know what is wrong. They deal with that stuff every day.
> 
> ...


I do have the manual but they do not say or show how to remove injectors but they did say they are Bosch. I have a shop that will rebuild them I just need to get them there. I have replaced filter twice. To recap the tractor runs fine until it is under a load for a while which makes me believe the injector lines are clear, or am I assuming? When I accelerate it puffs black smoke for a second and has left smoke on loader arm, then when load is on it puffs white and sputters. I have a mechanic to do the pump if it is not the injectors.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Sidecar Flip is correct on many levels.. IF u had algae and add the Biocide, it killed it but now the bodies are in the tank and clogging the filters.. especially the tank filter.!
U just gotta keep changing them until they’re gone..


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

One or two filter changes won't cut it. It takes numerous changes to rid the system of all the now dead bodies...lol If it was mine, I'd be pulling the fuel tank and cleaning it out off the unit. Algae has to be the hardest stuff to get rid of, there is and why I dose all my fuel with biocide, always.

The issue is, today, even if you purchase fuel from any retailer (USLD on road or off road), it will have a percentage of bio-diesel mixed in, government mandate and it's the bio-diesel that grows the algae.

I realize a bottle of biocide is expensive but, it's a whole bunch cheaper and less grief that having to purge the fuel system of algae.

Another reason why I stay away from the new T4 final units. With high pressure common rail fuel injection, getting algae in the fuel system can cost BIG bucks to eliminate.

In reality, so long as you are using the proper fuel filters (micron rating) and your sediment filter / strainer is intact and working properly, none of the algae should get past them and into the pump or injectors and what you describe, certainly sounds like a fuel starvation issue, not a pump or injector issue.

The other thing is, If the unit is older, even if the fuel delivery hoses appear to be fine, the lift pump can and will collapse the feed lines and cause fuel starvation. I'd be replacing all the rubber fuel hoses with new ones anyway.

One thing I learned (the hard way) with rubber brake hoses (though not related except in material is, rubber brake hoses can appear to be fine on the outside but on the inside they can flake off and prevent the flow of brake fluid, causing brake shoes and pads to drag. I would imagine that the same can apply to fuel hoses.

I had the algae issue on my farm truck (Ford F350, 7.3) and it cost me a grand to fix and I did all the work myself. I had to drop both fuel tanks, clean them inside, replace both pickup and sending units, replace the lift pump and remove and clean the fuel bowl plus replace the fuel bowl element 3 times. None of the red **** got past the fuel filter but up to the fuel filter, it was a mess. Why I use biocide all the time now. Don't want a repeat performance.

Lots of elixirs on the market that claim to have biocide in them, I don't buy into that. I prefer adding a straight biocide. I do use Stanadyne fuel additive but it's more of a 'feel good' thing than anything else. Stuff ain't cheap (Biocide), but a lot cheaper than having to rebuild a compromised fuel system.


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## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

SidecarFlip said:


> One or two filter changes won't cut it. It takes numerous changes to rid the system of all the now dead bodies...lol If it was mine, I'd be pulling the fuel tank and cleaning it out off the unit. Algae has to be the hardest stuff to get rid of, there is and why I dose all my fuel with biocide, always.
> 
> The issue is, today, even if you purchase fuel from any retailer (USLD on road or off road), it will have a percentage of bio-diesel mixed in, government mandate and it's the bio-diesel that grows the algae.
> 
> ...


I see your point and take it to heart. I will be using the biocide on my 7.3 now as well since I do not drive it as much, almost retired. I use only Mahindra filters, I have purged the fuel tank, and checked the fuel tank sediment/screen when I fueled it a second time after the biocide, it was really clean! I will replace filter again and the fuel line, cheap compared to injector rebuild. My question is why would I have black soot on the loader arm, and raw smelling exhaust with white puffs if it was a starve issue?


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## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

SidecarFlip said:


> One or two filter changes won't cut it. It takes numerous changes to rid the system of all the now dead bodies...lol If it was mine, I'd be pulling the fuel tank and cleaning it out off the unit. Algae has to be the hardest stuff to get rid of, there is and why I dose all my fuel with biocide, always.
> 
> The issue is, today, even if you purchase fuel from any retailer (USLD on road or off road), it will have a percentage of bio-diesel mixed in, government mandate and it's the bio-diesel that grows the algae.
> 
> ...


Forgot, I really appreciate you taking the time to help me. I am a disabled vet on a fixed income and have to do most of my own repairs, thankfully I can still do most of them. Thanks.


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## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

SidecarFlip said:


> One or two filter changes won't cut it. It takes numerous changes to rid the system of all the now dead bodies...lol If it was mine, I'd be pulling the fuel tank and cleaning it out off the unit. Algae has to be the hardest stuff to get rid of, there is and why I dose all my fuel with biocide, always.
> 
> The issue is, today, even if you purchase fuel from any retailer (USLD on road or off road), it will have a percentage of bio-diesel mixed in, government mandate and it's the bio-diesel that grows the algae.
> 
> ...


OK so I did all the fuel cleaning and filter change, BUT (ITS OK TO LAUGH NOW) I thought I purged the air from the filter change, but did not get it all. So as of an hour ago it is now running perfect, no injectors, no pump issues! Thank you for the great advice and you save me a ton of money!


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Glad to hear it..


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## Godzilla (Dec 8, 2011)

Update:
Tractor started rough, puffing white smoke, and stuttering. I contacted 
*thepumpguysc on a private message.*
I had to have a mechanic pull the injectors, sent them to 
*thepumpguysc *and he pop tested and found they work perfect, my total bill was under 40.00 including cost to send them to him. My mechanic did find that #2 injector was leaking by. So the pump and injectors are fine just new gaskets and O rings. Thanks to *thepumpguysc *for being FAST! and Honest! Hard to come by today! If you have issues I would contact him.

The Biocide was the fix to the original issue! Thanks to 
*SidecarFlip* for that fix!


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