# GT5000-Won't Turn Over



## talkin (Apr 9, 2011)

*GT5000-Won't Turn Over ---PROBLEM SOLVED: THANKS TO ALL!*

My GT5000 won't turn over. The manual lists nine possible reasons on page 28, and, I have cleared all of them except to examine for damaged wiring --- and there's no reason I won't have any damaged wiring.

In the past, I replaced the solenoid and this fixed the problem. This time, this approach does not work. The battery has the right charge, the clutch is depressed, the attachment clutch is not engaged, the fuse is not blown, battery terminals are not corroded, and I've tried a new ignition switch. The operator presence switch on the seat is also OK.

Here's my questions. 

In replacing the solenoid, Sears advises to replace a two spade terminal setup with one wire. I've tried the wiring setup every conceivable way and nothing happens.

The mower is easily jump started. I have a new spare starter for it, but, since the one in it now works when jumped, the starter doesn't seem to be the problem.

Any suggestions? Thanks, tom


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Usually the cause of it not even turning over is a bad fuse to the ign switch or a starter solenoid - id replace the ign source wire fuse with a new one - its also possible the clutch switch could be bad ( it does get used a lot) - for an experement, unhook the clutch sensor and seat sensor and see if it starts- even tho they look good- doesnt mean they are good.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

If it will jump start it would almost have to be between the ignition, and the starter somewhere. I would say solenoid or as mentioned ignition fuse. Welcome to the Forum!.. Let us know if you find the problem.


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## talkin (Apr 9, 2011)

Thanks for your comments and your welcome. I appreciate it. Best, tom


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## talkin (Apr 9, 2011)

Thanks for your suggestion about replacing the ignition source wiring fuse. I checked it, and it was OK. But you're right, a new one might make the difference.

Also, I hadn't thought about the ignition source wire. The manual says to check for all loose or worn wiring on the wiring harness. I had done so, but it's so easy to miss something in the midst of the dirt and grime that collects under there. I wiped down the wiring and checked all plug contacts. 

I forgot to mention one thing: the headlights no longer come on when the key is turned while the machine is off. This would suggest either that fuse or the ignition switch. But as I said earlier, I tried a new ignition switch with it and that didn't work. 

Clearly, checking out all of your ideas and eliminating each one is the correct approach. Many thanks again, tom


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

talkin said:


> Thanks for your suggestion about replacing the ignition source wiring fuse. I checked it, and it was OK. But you're right, a new one might make the difference.
> 
> Also, I hadn't thought about the ignition source wire. The manual says to check for all loose or worn wiring on the wiring harness. I had done so, but it's so easy to miss something in the midst of the dirt and grime that collects under there. I wiped down the wiring and checked all plug contacts.
> 
> ...


 Just another idea check all your ground to frame, etc connections. And Welcome to the Forum!.. we are glad to have you here!


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Did you get a chance to get a solenoid?


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

The lights either are hard wired or run off the stator ( two wires from the stator- one is the battery charge lead- the other runs the lights- the lights will brighten and dim with the throttle) - it sounds like if the lights dont work - it could mean the ign switch wasnt hooked up right( most ign switches have lettered sequences to do certain tasks: lights, run , start and off) - it sounds like its still charging tho- so the diode is still okay ( if it was bad- itd be sucking the battery of power).


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

dangeroustoys56 said:


> The lights either are hard wired or run off the stator ( two wires from the stator- one is the battery charge lead- the other runs the lights- the lights will brighten and dim with the throttle) - it sounds like if the lights dont work - it could mean the ign switch wasnt hooked up right( most ign switches have lettered sequences to do certain tasks: lights, run , start and off) - it sounds like its still charging tho- so the diode is still okay ( if it was bad- itd be sucking the battery of power).


 Yep i have seen it burn certain connections out on a switch, and the rest still work. Such as mentioned will jump start but not on its own with the switch means the run portion is ok, but the last pin or (start connector) is loosing power somehow does this make sense?


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Sounds like thats where an open could be - or if the power is leaping to another circuit . The newer replacement ign switches dont seem to be as solid built as older ones- case in point last year i had to finally replace the original 29 year old ign switch in my 82 dynamark- was nothing there for the key to turn.

It also depends what type of ign switch your tractor has- theres everything from a simple 5 pin switch to 7 pins- usually since my tractors have sat around a while outside, the plastic connectors and wiring are so far gone/corroded- i use new wire and solderless connectors.


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## talkin (Apr 9, 2011)

ALL:

The problem is solved. Thanks to all for their contributions.

In this case, ahem, it was repairman (me) assumption error. 

I tested the connection between the battery and the solenoid and ASSUMED the connection was OK. The solenoid was working and it was getting a charge from the battery. Later, when I was attempting to test the hot side of the solenoid with jumper cables while grounding them the engine started to turn over when the key was activated.

The solution: the battery terminal connection was just dirty enough to keep the correct charge going to the starter via the solenoid. Once I sanded down the terminals (both sides) with sandpaper, used battery terminal cleaner, and then sealed the connections with battery terminal sealer, it started right up. The headlights worked too, because, of course, they were now getting the proper charge.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

talkin said:


> ALL:
> 
> The problem is solved. Thanks to all for their contributions.
> 
> ...



Glad to hear you got it going! I hope you stay around and help us as much as you can we can never have to many troubleshooters on here..


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## talkin (Apr 9, 2011)

Thanks. I will try to help if I can. I'm not a professional mechanic but if I can help I will. Best, tom


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

I trick i use on the vehicles to keep the corrosion away on the battery terminals/connectors - regular wheel bering grease.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

dangeroustoys56 said:


> I trick i use on the vehicles to keep the corrosion away on the battery terminals/connectors - regular wheel bering grease.



Grease, and or baking soda helps neutralize the seeping acid, and keeps corrosion to a minimum..


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## rsmith335 (Jun 2, 2010)

That's what I find wrong with most of my equipment- a loose nut behind the wheel.:lmao:


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## Ernie (Mar 18, 2004)

Check your valves.....most starting problems may be fixed with proper valve adjustment


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

rsmith335 said:


> That's what I find wrong with most of my equipment- a loose nut behind the wheel.:lmao:



:lmao:..:lmao:..:lmao:


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