# Had an unpleasant surprise today.



## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

I was using my 3414 to move my utility trailer so I could get my RV out. I backed her up and left her idling while I got the trailer tongue to the tight height to hook up. Just as I was about ready to go back to the tractor a racket like a brake being applied to the pulled arose in the tractor and before I could shut her down it ground the engine to a halt. I tried cranking her again and it sounded like the battery was dead as it wouldn't budge the engine. I reached back and grabbed the BGB pulley and it would move but with great effort. I got out My 916h and used the lift and a chain to move her around to the back yard where I uncoupled the engine from the drive shaft and it cranked up just fine and ran well. Well, it is in the BGB. There is very little play in the cross shaft and when I try to turn it and take up the slack it actually turns the input shaft about a hair. I checked the oil level and it was fine. I thought the input shaft bearing was seized but there is no screeching or grinding when I turn the propellant shaft with a pipe wrench. I really did not have time today to mess with it and am about to get busy in my summer work schedule so further investigation will have to wait. I am wondering if that capscrew part #28 ,in the end of the shaft holding the drive gear in place , has backed out and finally made contact with the cross shaft putting the brakes on inside the BGB. Since it was just idling maybe it didn't have enough torque to to do any real damage. Does that sound like a plausible situation? 

I should be able to pop the back cover off and see if the cross shaft is scarred up.
I happen to have a BGB waiting in the wings if I have to do a swap out.

In the meantime I took the grader blade off my 916H and mounted one of the mowers. I just hate to cut with it as the engine, a low hour K341, just runs like hell.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Interesting...do keep us updated on your finds.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

It's possible,Phil.
I think,in the meantime I would swap it,so you can use it,until you find out what actually happened.
Also, is #22 a retainer for bearing #19 ?


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

jhngardner367 said:


> It's possible,Phil.
> I think,in the meantime I would swap it,so you can use it,until you find out what actually happened.
> Also, is #22 a retainer for bearing #19 ?


Yes that is a retainer. I've never seen that come loose but I gave seen cap screw #28 come loose at high rpm and do a world of damage. 
Swapping it out requires splitting the tractor. Just don't have the time right now and don't have the flat floor to do the separation. I'll probably rig a hoist on a bakers rack scaffold. I decided a long time ago if I ever rebuilt one of these I'd install the screw with blue locktite.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

Well I found out what went wrong with my old BGB. Needle bearing ceased to the shaft. Probably need both. Hope it did not damage housing.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Would that be seal bearing?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Phil'
Is the bearing pressed on,or retained with a clip ? 
I was just wondering,if it's held by a clip,could you just buff the shaft ?


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

Thomas said:


> Would that be seal bearing?


No they are oil lubed. I had intertained the thought of the needle bearing going out since it wasn't frozen tight. Not sure how it happened as I have kept it full of fluid since I've ovens it for the last 9 years. Who knows what the other 33 years were like. I know someone broke the threaded tip off the pto side of the cross shaft and had drilled and tapped to accept a 7/16" cap-screw. The rest of the shafts and gears are pristine. If I'm lucky the drive shaft will be ok when I cut the needle bearing off.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

jhngardner367 said:


> Phil'
> Is the bearing pressed on,or retained with a clip ?
> I was just wondering,if it's held by a clip,could you just buff the shaft ?


The ball bearing is held in place by a clip and the gear which is pressed on but the needle bearing ( the thing that looks like a milled band on the shaft) is pressed into the gear case and the shaft slides through it to install. The shaft is held in place by the clip acting on the ball bearing and the retainer clip holding the bearing against the lip in the gear case. 

My issue with the "new" BGB I put in the tractor is that there is more slop in it than I find acceptable. There is no end play on either shaft but I know the gears aren't meshing as closely as they should. This is supposed to be corrected by inserting shims behind the driven gear but I can't figure out if that is between the gear and the bearing or between the bearing and the side plate of the tractor. The official Simplicity Repair manual doesn't address the issue at. It is written as if all you have to do is put it together and as long ad both shafts turn freely it's good to go. I know bevel gears just don't work that way. The gearbox I put in has about 1-2° of slop. Now that may run for 20 more years but maybe not.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Normally,to take up gear slop,it's put between the gear,and the bearing. 
Much like the differentials on vehicles.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

John, I agree with you but the Simplicity BGB gurus are saying on the outside against the side plate to "preserve " the spacing by holding the bearing against lip on the inside. I checked it and the backlash is 5°. I'm tempted to try to find some shimming washers the size of the bearing inner race.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Lowe's has some in their specialty drawers in the hardware section,that might fit.
I've gotten them before,from there.


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

The shafts are 7/8" diameter. Kinda strange size in hardware world.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

What's the OD size you need?


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## skunkhome (Nov 30, 2008)

Probably not more than 1-1/4".


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Local auto parts,or tractor dealer may have some .


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