# Ardie's Ford 4000 hydraulics



## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

sixbales said:


> Howdy tcp, welcome to the tractor forum.
> 
> The hydraulic filter for a Ford 4000 three cylinder tractor is down in the rear differential section under the lift cover (lift cover is under the seat). The rear differential section also serves as your hydraulic reservoir. See item #50 on attached diagram. The filter has a bypass valve which opens when the filter is plugged. Your tractor has probably been bypassing hydraulic fluid for 30-40 years. Change the filter when you have the lift cover off for repairs. There is also a suction screen (item #60 on diagram) down in the very bottom of the reservoir, which should be cleaned if you ever take the lift cover off.
> 
> ...


Hi, I have a Ford 4000 but can not find the square head pipe plug for the fluid level for the rear end when wanting to make sure there is enough fluid, I will try and attach picture of the area thet Ultradog shows if anyone can advise please..


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It is in the same position, but you have an Allen plug instead of the square head.


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Hacke said:


> It is in the same position, but you have an Allen plug instead of the square head.
> View attachment 55111


Ohk, great thanks, I did look at that but because it was a slotted (screwdriver) head I thought it wasn't the right one, cheers


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Sorry, the Allen hex type was my bad assumption. It looks like one of those in New Holland's picture:
https://www.messicks.com/part/9617020/plug-pipe

It is a 1/4"-18, NPTF thread (tapered).

An Operator's Manual:
www.ntractorclub.com/manuals/tractors/Operators%20Manual%20All%20Purpose%20and%20LCG%20Tractors%202000,3000,4000,and%205000.pdf


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Hacke said:


> Sorry, the Allen hex type was my bad assumption. It looks like one of those in New Holland's picture:
> https://www.messicks.com/part/9617020/plug-pipe
> 
> It is a 1/4"-18, NPTF thread (tapered).
> ...


no problem, do you still think it is the fluid level bung? if so it's tomorrow's job to take it out, it's in a tricky place, cheers


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Yes it is there, but when I look at the Operator's Manual I linked to, it shows another position. I then looked at the New Holland parts list and, from what I can understand, the picture in that manual shows a tractor without the hydraulic pump in the rear axle, and with a transmission PTO. You have the pump in the rear axle, and (I suppose) an independent PTO.

Anyhow, I attach a picture from another (European market) manual that shows the correct position for filler and level plug on your tractor.

"cheers" makes me think you are in the Commonwealth, am I right?


Cheers from Sweden.


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Hacke said:


> Yes it is there, but when I look at the Operator's Manual I linked to, it shows another position. I then looked at the New Holland parts list and, from what I can understand, the picture in that manual shows a tractor without the hydraulic pump in the rear axle, and with a transmission PTO. You have the pump in the rear axle, and (I suppose) an independent PTO.
> 
> Anyhow, I attach a picture from another (European market) manual that shows the correct position for filler and level plug on your tractor.
> 
> ...


haha, yes I'm in a small part of the Commonwealth, New Zealand. I think my ford 4000 is English made rather than US but a bit like the level plug my series code does not seem to be as straight forward as what the online translation shows. I will attach a photo of it if anyone is able to let me know their thoughts please, cheers (I'm not sure of the Swedish equivalent sorry)


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

That is one of the last 4000, December 10, 1974, and it is assembled in the UK plant in Basildon.
Januari 1, 1975 came a new series, the 600-series, and 4000 became 4600.
Some 1000-series tractors were assembled in 1975, but yours is truly one of the last.
It would be nice to have the Model Number, no sticker under the hood?
Check at the places described here:
http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/rhcodes_serial.html

Is it part of a cab that is sitting in front of the level plug?


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Oh, ohk, so it has come a wee way from its home then... There isn't a cab on the tractor, it is a bracket that the hand brake lever is mounted on, I've added 3 photos, 
a close up photo of the possible level plug (absolutely no idea how I can remove it)
a photo further back that i have circled the location of the plug and a arrow as to where I thought the plug should have been but it is a factory blank
a photo of the label under the bonnet.

I really appreciate you taking time for



















me, cheers


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I think I see D1014C on the sticker, that means that you have a 4000 diesel, Agricultural All Purpose with 540 rpm (at 1800 engine rpm) independent PTO and an 8-speed transmission. That is good to know if you need parts. It is the most common setup for the 4000 model.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Hold it, drop your tools!

Sorry, I have been misleading you. The level plug on your tractor sits on the outside of the hydraulic pump, see pictures. It has been replaced by a bolt (probably with some thread locking liquid). There should be a shorter plug (bolt) that seals with a washer against the milled surface, which indicates that it is not a tapered thread. New Holland is not revealing what thread it is, so try to find out. Get a shorter bolt and a fitting copper washer or a Tredo type washer. Maybe you can shorten the bolt that is there now. Let us hope that it has the right thread, it could be the wrong one and it is forced into the hole (aluminium).

I have a 4000 -69, 8-speed with independent PTO, same configuration as yours. I have used the rear plug and did not know about this. You learn every day, sorry if that has caused you any trouble.


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Haha I hadn't noticed that, I will try that bolt this afternoon, cheers


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Bit of success, I do think that is the level plug, I have put 6 litres in the top bung but nothing is coming out the level plug hole but I see it looks like I am losing fluid out the left hand side handbrake rod (photo attached) where it goes into the axle, is there a seal (or something similar) that can be weeping and needs replacing??
I will have to wait until our 'lock down' period finishes to get some more hydraulic fluid.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I think we have hijacked this thread enough, better start a new thread.
Sorted.

The rod is actually for the foot brake pedal. There is not a separate handbrake system, the lever acts upon the brake pedals, and merely locks them. It also works as an emergency brake. When you pull it, it engages both pedals, regardless if the pedals are latched together or not.

You need to change the seals, on both sides to be safe. I attach a list from New Holland Parts List.
The seal #19 (82037652) looks like this: https://4agri.ro/97752-large_default/brake-boot-seal.jpg

You will have oil coming out of the hole when you pull the seal out, so either you drain at the rear axle drain plug to avoid that, or put a container under the seal to catch the oil.

It is an easy fix, and easier to work with the seal before you loosen anything else.
Pry out the seal flange from the axle housing, and pull it out.
Now you pull the cotter pin (split pin?) #24 and the pin #25.
Then there is (should be) a lock nut holding the clevis #21.
Unthread the clevis and pull out the big washer and the seal.
Clean the parts, especially the surfaces for the seal in the axle housing and the rod.

Lubricate the hole in the seal and the mating surface on the rod with some oil, same for the outer side of the seal. If you have rubber grease at hand, that is a better option in my opinion.

The rod looks like this: https://www.affaretrattore.it/pics/1179/big_328687.jpg
There is a tight fit between the seal and the part of the rod it goes to. I find it easier to work with the rod assembled to the pedal arm, because you have to force the seal and a rod that is all over the place does not help you a bit.
Tap the flange into the axle housing, use a piece of wood to distribute the force evenly.

The big washer is supposed to act as a splash guard covering the seal. It is secured on the rod by a flimsy lock washer, like this: http://www.starlock.co.uk/images/starlock-on-shaft.jpg
You can get a fitting lock washer in a hardware store.

I forgot:
Adjust the brake pedals and tap the big washer lock washer (?) so the big washer tightens against the seal.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Hacke said:


> I think we have hijacked this thread enough, better start a new thread.


Good idea.... Done!


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

pogobill said:


> Good idea.... Done!


Great service!
Quarantine?


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Apologies to all I guess the protocol is to start a thread on a change of topic?
Yes NZ is in lock-down as a Covid-19 response, at least you have given me a shopping list for when this period has finished. I think you make good sense to do both sides, cheers


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hacke said:


> That is one of the last 4000, December 10, 1974, and it is assembled in the UK plant in Basildon.
> Januari 1, 1975 came a new series, the 600-series, and 4000 became 4600.
> Some 1000-series tractors were assembled in 1975, but yours is truly one of the last.
> It would be nice to have the Model Number, no sticker under the hood?
> ...


Hacke,
The Thousands were built till late in the fall of 75.
I know New Holland lists them as built only through 12/74 but that is not accurate. I don't know why they do that.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hacke said:


> I think we have hijacked this thread enough, better start a new thread.
> Sorted.
> 
> The rod is actually for the foot brake pedal. There is not a separate handbrake system, the lever acts upon the brake pedals, and merely locks them. It also works as an emergency brake. When you pull it, it engages both pedals, regardless if the pedals are latched together or not.
> ...


Hacke,
Maybe I read your post wrong but
There was a hand brake on the British tractors that did not engage the brakes in the axle housing.
That hand brake has a small disc brake inside and is connected by means of a right angle gear to the pinion shaft. When you pull the hand brake it locks the pinion shaft so the tractor can't move.
Don't know if you knew that?

https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html#epc::mr64887ar235362


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Ultradog said:


> Hacke,
> The Thousands were built till late in the fall of 75.
> I know New Holland lists them as built only through 12/74 but that is not accurate. I don't know why they do that.


The 600-series (7A) was planned to be introduced earlier than 1975, but Ford had a lot going on at the time and since the 1000-series (6Y) continued being succesfull, they postponed the new series. In 1974, 5000 and 7000 got the Dual Power option, which was intended for the new series. On 1974 tractors you can detect smaller details showing that something was going on. For instance, the rear axle housing on Ardie's 4000 from late 1974 has a different pattern in the casting than earlier tractors.

The official date for the change was then set to January 1, 1975, but what really happened is unclear. No plant made 6Y tractors from scratch (apart from 6000 and up). One plant made some parts for all the other plants, which in turn made other parts. Then the parts were shipped between the plants and assembled. 

Stuart Gibbard mentions in "The Ford Tractor Story, Part Two" that the US plants at Highland Park, Des Moines and Royal Oak where shut down during 1975, and that one new plant in Romeo, Michigan took over all production. The production at the Romeo plant started on September 1, 1974 and was in full production during 1975. There was probably an overlap with 6Y tractors assembled as long as there were 6Y parts in stock. Besides, there were no hurry ending the 6Y series, they had buyers. If some trouble with the new series components or production occured, you could assemble the old one instead.
The European plants were sitting on 6Y parts, but got other parts for 7A?

Those 1975 (and late 1974) made 6Y tractors may be 7A tractors with 6Y details?

Gibbard also tells that a plant at Sidena, Mexico, assembled a small number of 6Y tractors "for a few more years"???

Escorts Agri Machinery. What happened there? Did they make Ford badged 6Y tractors? If so, for how long?


Sorry for the rambling, Ardie. Quarantine, you know...


*** Edit ***
Sorry, "Escorts in India" did not turn out to be a good phrase at an Internet search...
Changed it to "Escorts Agri Machinery"
*** * ***


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Ultradog said:


> Hacke,
> Maybe I read your post wrong but
> There was a hand brake on the British tractors that did not engage the brakes in the axle housing.
> That hand brake has a small disc brake inside and is connected by means of a right angle gear to the pinion shaft. When you pull the hand brake it locks the pinion shaft so the tractor can't move.
> ...


I told Ardie that the rod is not a "handbrake rod", and tried to explain what the (pictured) handbrake lever does. It is an Agricultural All Purpose, with a handbrake lever on the right side. I did not see the importance of telling him about other types of handbrake/parkingbrake arrangements.


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

haha, yeah I hear you... it is very interesting the history of my tractor. It is annoying that I cannot get and replace the seals for another few weeks (at least) yet. 
Do you have any experience replacing the seal on the front end loader ram? is it something that I could do or better to take the ram into town?
cheers


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The tricky part use to be removing the end of the cylinder, depending on how it is fastened and how you can get a hold of it.


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Attached photo of the ram it is a BEGG clip on loader but absolutely no luck finding any info or detail as to replacing a leaky seal


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

That is a new one to me. There is definitely not a problem to get a grip on the head at the end to unthread it from the cylinder.
What does the end of the piston rod look like (where it is attached to the loader), welded eye, threaded or...?

The piston rod looks rusted, is the loader in it's lowest position?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Can you take a picture, showing the face of the cylinder head, looking along the piston rod (see arrow)?


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Hi the loader (bucket) is resting on the ground (nearly the lowest position), if I take the bucket off the ram would contract a bit more. The top of the ram is on a pin with a clip, the bottom end of the ram looks like a collar with a bolt through it.
photos attached, it isn't as straight forward as disconnecting the oil line, removing the ram and removing the 'allan' screws...is it? would I have to drain the oil to disconnect the oil line?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Is there only one line? Nothing at the bottom?

Assuming that the cylinder bottom end is not possible to open, I see two alternatives:
1.
The upper end (with the four bolts) is the gland that holds the rod seals, and you can pull it out after the four bolts are removed, something like this:
https://www.lucas-nuelle.de/images/hydrauliktitel-ar-h310.jpg

2.
The upper end of the head is a cap with just a scraper, and the seals are inside the big chunk of aluminium (the gland). Then you have to unthread the big chunk from the cylinder tube in order to change the seals.


You do not need to disconnect the line now.
Remove the pin that holds the pistorn rod so the end is free.
You need to remove the rust and make the rod as smooth as possible. If you slide seals over that surface, they are ruined.
Take a file and remove any burrs from the hole's edges and the end of the rod.
A scotchbrite sort of disc or a flapdisc for the angle grinder is a good start of the derusting, or you can use emery cloth from start
Start with coarse emery cloth grit 80, then 120, 180. The finer, the better.
Remove the four bolts and pull out the cap/gland.
Now we know which alternative it is.

Better renew the piston seals as well.
If it shows that we have alternative 1, you will be able to pull out the complete rod/piston assembly from the cylinder. If so, you need to disconnect the line first. There will be oil coming out, so have several containers ready. The line will be leaking a bit first.
Check the inside of the cylinder, so there is no burrs or obsticles on the inside wall.

If we have alternative 2, the big chunk has to go if you want to renew any of the seals.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)




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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Only 1 oil line for the ram, nothing to the bottom end. No, they are not cracks (phew) just dirt and oil, I have given the top end a wipe over and added better photo. The crazing in the chrome that can be seen is very hard to feel (i guess about 0.1mm in height) although it looks a lot, the rust is the issue that needs to be polished off I would think


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Great, looking better already.
The pittings are not a problem, they are outside the travel of the rod against any seal. It is the build up and flakes that has to go. You may think that it does not bother at disassembly because the seals should be renewed anyhow. You need to do the surface preparation before you put in the new seals and if you do it now, you do not risk having debris getting into the cylinder.

*** Edit ***
"Disassembly"
*** " ***


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Great thanks, to confirm I do not need to disconnect the oil line? Just remove the top pin holding the ram, lower it from the frame, clean and polish the end before removing the 4 screws and then remove the large aluminum head (gland?) to remove/replace the seals.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

You do not need to disconnect the line, for now.
Put a container under the cap/gland.

I thought about it, and it is better to put back the pin in place after you have cleaned the rod. It helps with support while you are wrestling with the cap/gland :

Remove the four screws and pull (pry evenly) on the cap (which hopefully is the gland with the rod seals) from the big chunk it was screwed onto.
You need to pull it straight out, do not force it sideways.
When it is loose, you can remove the pin from the rod end, lower the assembly and slide out the cap/gland.

I thought again:
I doubt it, because of the four screws, but the cap/gland may be threaded.
Take a pipe wrench and try to twist it after you have removed the screws. If you can twist it fairly easy clockwise, it is not threaded and you can pull it out. If not, try to twist it counterclockwise and see if it comes out. If so, it is threaded and you have to continue the twisting until it gets loose.

If it is stuck in both directions, there might be a dowel pin that is holding the cap/gland. In that case, it is not threaded. So, go easy on the twisting.

But again, I do not think it is threaded. I do not think that someone would use four bolts of that size, just to secure a threaded part.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I ramble too much, this is for clarification:

By prying evenly, I mean that you pry at two diametrically opposed points at the same time.


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## Ardie (Apr 10, 2020)

Great, understood, I appreciate the picture (I did think I had to take the big piece of the tube as well, that's Saturday morning sorted, cheers
Will let you know how I go


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I am getting more and more confident that this will end well. Pry on! My pryers are with you.


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## clark james (Jan 15, 2020)

Ardie: I am a latecomer to this thread and got confused with the intermingling of threads, but did you get an answer to your original post about the plug? If not, i would caution you to look at the pipe plug when you get it out. Is it 18 threads per inch or 14 threads per inch. The 14 TPI is USP US pipe. They are similar, .but not interchangeable. Good luck.


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