# No spark to plugs after running out of gas?



## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Yesterday I ran out of fuel while mowing and now no juice to spark plugs.

1994 AYP Clone. 18HP Briggs, model 422707.

I just tuned it up, new spark plugs and cleaned carb a few weeks back. Everything running great have at least 4 hrs on the mower post tuneup. 

Rechecked the fuel system, plenty of fuel to the carb. New Air cleaner. Battery good. Fuse good. Starter good. No obvious wiring problems.

I know very little about coils/alternators on these small Briggs engines.

Did a search here and tired all the general stuff.

Any suggestions for resources or other links to edumacate myself further would be greatly appreciated.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Is it an electric pto, or manual?


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## Mickey (Aug 14, 2010)

First thing I'd check are the various safety switches, seat, pto & brake. Now I'm making an assumption which isn't good on my part that the engine isn't turning over. Now if the engine turns over and no spark, could be the ign switch. Typ the ign switch grounds the mag wire to shut engine off. If something has failed in the switch the ground connection my not be opening. Can check by disconnecting the kill wire from the switch to the mag. It's also possible the coil has failed.

Good luck.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*clone*

I had the same thing happen to me,on FrankenWheels,and I thought it was just out of fuel,but I found that the armature died,too. The Briggs twins have a single armature,with twin plug wires,and both cylinders fire at the same time.when the coil(armature) dies,it acts like you shut it off,OR ran out of fuel.At the side of the armature,is a small(usually black ) wire.That's the kill wire.Disconnect it,and try to start the engine.If it starts,or you have spark,follow the kill wire ,and see if it has shorted to ground,some where.If the engine gets spark,or starts with the wire off,leave the key in the "run" position,reconnect the wire ,and see if there's still spark.If not,there's a problem in the killwire,or the ign switch,itself.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Sometimes it can be soooo simple..lose wire,grass shorting system,blown fuse.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Ok... yes, I messed with the "armature" that the spark plugs connect to.

I took out plugs and had wife crank the engine, then placed the spark plugs up next to the block to see if they would spark. No spark. I tried a rod in the plug and touched that to the block. Wife thought it was pretty funny watching me shock myself. So, I was getting good spark from the Armature....

And, yes, the engine cranks just fine. Carb is cleaned again, plugs are wet after trying to start.

Tonight Ill try disconnecting the grounding wire. I don't know why I didn't try that last night.

If that is the issue then it sounds like I need to tinker with the key switch. I'll post results in a day or so.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Change to a new set of plugs. If it gave you a shock,it's the plugs,not the armature.If plugs get wet enough,they won't fire ,new or old,and cleanig won't help.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

jhngardner367 said:


> Change to a new set of plugs. If it gave you a shock,it's the plugs,not the armature.If plugs get wet enough,they won't fire ,new or old,and cleanig won't help.



Yep i have bought new ones before that where defective, and would not fire brand new.. Its worth a try...as you mentioned them getting wet might have fouled them out completly..


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I played a dirty trick on a fellow that was sneaking over to my shop,and using equipment,while I was recovering last week.He seemed to prefer one certain tractor...so I ran a small wire to the seat,from the right sparkplug wire! He hasn't snuck over here,since,and won't talk to me,anymore!:lmao::lmao::lmao:


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

So... I disconnected the ground wire. Cranked a few times, got some grey smoke a couple times, but then nothing.

The plugs I have now I bought like 3 weeks ago, they are effectively new. If they are damaged, then it is probably my fault for letting the engine run completely out of fuel? Maybe? Tried the old spark plugs and those aren't helping either.

If it is spark plugs it is easy to fix, but sure want to know that before I go buy another new set.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

jhngardner367 said:


> I played a dirty trick on a fellow that was sneaking over to my shop,and using equipment,while I was recovering last week.He seemed to prefer one certain tractor...so I ran a small wire to the seat,from the right sparkplug wire! He hasn't snuck over here,since,and won't talk to me,anymore!:lmao::lmao::lmao:


I don't consider that a dirty trick if he was the one sneaking over and using your stuff.

If he won't talk to you now because of that, well, he's an @$$.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

BTW, does the armature have to touch the magnet when it rotates across them, or should there be a small gap?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

If you got a shock from the wires,but no spark at the plugs,it's 90% chance the plugs are fouled.If you have a length of insulated wire,strip enough to wrap around the plug threads,and connect the other end to grond.that way,you know it has a good ground,so if it still doesn't spark,change the plugs.Sometimes,just laying the plug on the engine isn't enough.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

By the way,what type/# plugs are you putting in?It should have Champion J19lm, or rj19lm,gapped at .030.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

There should be a gap of .012/.015,between the armature,andthe flywheel. The best gage is a strip of cardboard from a cereal box,or an oil filter box,etc.Loosen the armature screws,slip in the cardboard,and turn the flywheel by hand,until it pulls the armature to it.Then,tighten the screws,and remove the cardboard.If the legs of the armature touch the flywheel,you won't get spark.


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## 71auto800 (Jul 25, 2011)

jhngardner367 said:


> I played a dirty trick on a fellow that was sneaking over to my shop,and using equipment,while I was recovering last week.He seemed to prefer one certain tractor...so I ran a small wire to the seat,from the right sparkplug wire! He hasn't snuck over here,since,and won't talk to me,anymore!:lmao::lmao::lmao:


Now that's funny! Sounds like something I would do.

And I agree. New Plugs! Once a champion plug fouls it stays that way I don't care what ya do to it. With the exception of cleaning with a torch, some times that works. but that's another story.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

The new plugs I bought are Champion. I got the ones my book tells me to get.

The old plugs worked before I changed them out with the new ones. But they won't work either anymore.

I'll re-gap the armature and see what happens. If that doesn't work I guess I pop for another set of plugs and cross my fingers.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Lawrence1210 said:


> The new plugs I bought are Champion. I got the ones my book tells me to get.
> 
> The old plugs worked before I changed them out with the new ones. But they won't work either anymore.
> 
> I'll re-gap the armature and see what happens. If that doesn't work I guess I pop for another set of plugs and cross my fingers.



Let us know how it turns out..


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Ugh.

Bought a set of Autolite plugs. Set armature gap at .013.

Engine fired up but only seemed to be firing on one cylinder.

??

Now, back to not starting again... hope I didn't ruin another set of plugs.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Lawrence1210 said:


> Ugh.
> 
> Bought a set of Autolite plugs. Set armature gap at .013.
> 
> ...



Try .010 on the air gap...Is this a new coil?


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

wjjones said:


> Try .010 on the air gap...Is this a new coil?


It is the old coil.

I left gap at .012 and was able to get it started with the Autolite plugs. (With ground wire attached.)

However, it almost acts like only one cylinder is firing. I suppose it is possilbe the coil/armature is bad?

If I start it and run it full throttle on full choke, it runs. If I open the choke it surges fast-slow-fast-slow, then I start getting back-fires from muffler. I can run it on slow throttle and fast throttle with choke fully closed, but if I open the coke wide open the engine will surge and eventually quit running.

If this was a car engine I'd worry about timing issues.

I can't imagine only one good spark plug out of six.

Otherwise I guess I could start messing with the fuel-jet screw.

And, yes, the fuel in the tank I bought about 4 weeks back and was running fine on that same fuel can before it quit running.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

It still could be a timing issue.Check the timing key,and see if it's damaged.A mark on the side of the timing key that catches your fingernail,will throw the timing off by 4-6 degrees.Also,check your main jet,in the carb,to see if it's dirty.There's a 5/8 hex plug on the side of the carb.Unscrew it(clamp off the fuel line,and hold a can under the plug,to catch the fuel ),and use a 3/16 allen wrench to unscrew the jet,inside.Look through the jet,and you should see if it is plugged.Clean it with a fine wire,and reinstall it,and the hex plug.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

OK. I see the plug and main jet. I squirted carb cleaner in it but didn't disassemble. I'll try disassembling it next and see.

Timing key issue, I need to study how to inspect that piece.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*timing key*

To chek the timing key,you'll need to take off the flywheel retaining nut,and washer.If the key looks off-set,even a little,itshould be replaced,and that means removing the flywheel,using the two bolt holes,and a steering-wheel puller.DO NOT pry on the flywheel,or use a puller that pulls on the outside edges,and DON'T strike it,or the crankshaft with a hammer,as this will cause damage to the flywheel,and/or the crankshaft!


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

You may not have to remove the jet,if you have a thin piece of wire tha t will reach it,while it's installed.just gently push the strand of wire through the center of the jet,and spray it again.Then see if it runs without the choke having to be on.Do this,before doing the timing key,as it may save you pulling the flywheel.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Ah ok. I do have a steering wheel puller if I need to.

However, for now, anyone have a spare carburetor they want to sell?

I just discovered I cracked the bottom of the carb castubg when I bolted it back on the last time. I must have cranked the bolt a bit too hard in my frustration with this little beast.

I had it running and it was "surging", like the gas-fuel mixture was changing. I think the crack in the bottom was sucking air in past the throttle valve and messing up the fuel-air mixture.

And as for my initial problem, I probably just needed new spark plugs, as noted in previous posts.

Now after fooling around with it, I need to find another carburetor... Arrgh...

I've learned a few things though.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Doesn't your carb have a plastic spacer,between the carb& the manifold? most of them do.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Just checked partstree. New carb is $183&change. I sent you a PM,just let me know.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

jhngardner367 said:


> Doesn't your carb have a plastic spacer,between the carb& the manifold? most of them do.


It does. But somehow (okay, by me not paying close attention) I torgued the bolts on re-install in such a way as to break the carb casting. The plastic spacer is just fine.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Lawrence1210 said:


> It does. But somehow (okay, by me not paying close attention) I torgued the bolts on re-install in such a way as to break the carb casting. The plastic spacer is just fine.



Do you have a part# for the carb? mymowerparts.com is usually a little cheaper on their parts but they are also limited on parts too. Its worth a look though i guess..


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Thanks for the links. I'm digging up the part numbers. Looking around for used parts first, see if I get lucky.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Got the carb,but wasn't able to get to fedex for a cost(see my new post"resto"),but I can get there first thing in the morning.


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## 71auto800 (Jul 25, 2011)

have ya considered, JB weld ? I fix a lot of parts with this stuff.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Jb Doesn't work too well for carb mount flanges.The vibration cracks them after a short time.Believe me,I've tried.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

HeyLarry! let me know when the carb arrives !


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

I'm up and running again. Doesn't run exactly the same with this carb, so can't tell for sure if it is running better or just running a bit rough.

End result. It seems that running it out of gas, and not turning it off, but just letting it run out and die somehow damaged/fouled the plugs. Bought a new set of plugs, and apparently damaged/fouled them also. Anyone can explain why that would damage plugs?

Anyway, instead of buying a $5 set of plugs. I ended up buying 3 sets of plugs and a carburetor... very costly learning experience.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*carb*

Hey,Larry! Glad to see it's running!As for running rough,it may just need a slight adjustment to the slow/idle needle.Start the engine,and look at the base of the carb.you'll see a needle adjustment screw.Set the engine speed to idle position,then,SLOWLY turn the screw clockwise,until it changes engine speed/stumbles.Next turn it counter-clockwise,until it smooths out,and 1/4turn more.Increase the engine speed to high,then drop it back to idle,and wait about 20 seconds,and QUICKLY open the throttle to high.If it stumbles/stallsturn the adjustment screw clockwise 1/8 turn and open the throttle,quickly,again.It may take a couple of tries,but it will help. Also, make sure the plugs are gapped at .030",not .035". As for your question about how it fouls the plugs when it runs out of fuel,it may have had dirt/water in the fuel,the fuel tank, or weak plugs. I've got one here,that has eaten 4 sets of plugs,by fouling them on shutdown. If I get it figured out as to why,I'll shoot the info to you.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Good to hear you got it going again i have been down that costly path before as well...


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Do you mean the slow idle screw, or the other little needle-valve screw?

New carb has a brass looking screw that is screwed in all the way. It's "jet" is a small hole and hollow at the end. Engine runs best with it screwed all the way in.

Old carb has a needle-valve screw. I tried that and it worked, but neither one worked any better than the other. I put the little brass screw back in for now.

As far as QUICKLY opening the throttle without it stumbling/sputtering and/or just dying. Runs well at any throttle setting as long as I don't move it too fast.

I did up the slow-idle speed a bit since on low idle it seemed to want to chug and run close to dying.

Otherwise on full throttle with blades engaged it seems fine now.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

The idle speed screw sets the idle speed.The idle MIXTURE screw,is the one I mean,and it should go into the base of the carb,on the engine side of the carb.The brass one is,indeed a fixed jet..leave it in.If it doesn't stumble/die when the throttle is moved quickly,just leave it there.It may just need to run a bit,to settle in.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Follow up. 

I can find no screws on the engine side of the carb.

Looking at the carb from the fuel-pump side.
- Left side is the low idle speed screw.

- Center-front under fuel pump near the base is what appears to be an idle mixture screw. Old carb this is a needle valve screw. New carb this is a brass screw with tiny holes drilled in where the needle valve would normally be. I tried the new carb with the old needle valve and see no change in performance.

- Right side has a metal plug covering an internal brass screw-in device with a small hole through the center. I left this one alone. This is in a cavity containing fuel. This is the one I've been told to clean with a fine wire.


>>>

So far had the mower running for an hour while mowing and puttering around the yard. Shut it down for a bit, then tried to start it again, and it wouldn't start. Changed spark plugs to the previous new set and it started back up again. Got busy on other stuff and haven't tried running it for any length of time since.

Mower is difficult to start, have to set the choke and throttle just so, and hold my mouth just right, and cross fingers. Eventually it will start.

Previously it would turn over and start quite easily.

Going to try some fresh gas in it and see if that helps. Previous gas wasn't that old, but I'm running out of ideas.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*carb*

Hey,Larry! Sorry,I mis spoke when I said "engine side".The center-front is ,indeed, an idle mixture needle. the plug,in the fuel bowl,provides access to the main jet. If you've made the adjustments,andit does'nt run differently,it could be an ignition problem,instead.OR,as you stated,bad fuel.THat carb came off a running engine,and it ran well,so I'm going to assume that there's some thing we may have overlooked.Since it simply ran out of fuel,when this started,and you only replaced the carb because the other one broke,Start with clean,fresh fuel.If it still starts hard,you should check the timing key.Even a small mark on the key,will alter the timing,causing hard starting,fouling plugs,rough running,etc.If the key looks good,check the coil connetions,and look at the coil's center section for whitish discoloring(indicates shorting due to heat).The other thing you can do,sounds silly,but it can reveal hidden problems.Get a spray-bottle that sprays a fine mist.fill it with water.Remove the top heat shroud,and start the engine,and let it run at mid throttle,and slowly direct the spray at the coil's center winding.If it makes the engine stumble/stall,the coil is porous/cracked,and should be replaced.If it passes these tests,check the ign switch,connectors,and grounds.Let me know what happens.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Once it is running it runs strong. Runs well at slow throttle also. But I had turn the slow idle screw up about a half-turn.

Took a hard look at the coil, and it seems fine. Doesn't mean it is fine, just I can't see anything amiss.

As far as starting, if I set the choke to like 7/8 closed and the throttle at half, the engine will "chug" two to three times then rev up. It takes a bit longer to crank with the starter to get that initial "chug", then quickly move choke to 1/2, and it starts right up.

I suppose I could start looking for another coil and see if a different coil works better.


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## agsnow (Aug 20, 2011)

*agsnow*

I concur with message about seat swith, ie someone must be in it...?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Usually,you don't have to be in the seat to start it ,if the clutch pedal is locked forward,and the blades aren't activated,and the trans is in neutral.If any of the switches are faulty,or out of adjustment,then it won't start properly.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Larry,have you checked the battery cable connections,to see if they're clean/tight? Does the engine seem to turn slower than it should(300rpm)?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Larry,I just thought of something. Pull both plugs,and do a compression test(throttle wide open),and see if there's a difference between the two cylinders.Also,watch for equal spark at each cylinder.Let the engine turn at least 5 full revolutions,on both tests.Let me know what you find,especially the compression pressures. By the way,both cylinders should fire at the same time.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

I'll relook at the spark-compression issues again. I'll also recheck the wires. I can't see any noticeable wire corrosion or damage. I have not yet tried to diagnose the start switch.

I'll dig out my compresison tester also and see what I see.

As for the seat switch, I have to be in the seat to start it. I'm thinking about deactivating that switch, except if the wife or daughter are in it and bumping around while mowing it'll cut out. And I'd rather have the switch engaged when the kids are helping mow with it.


I can offer this experience yesterday.

I plopped on the seat and cranked it to see if I would get lucky. Engine started right up the first try. I ran the engine for about an hour, mostly idling. Pulling a small wagon around the yard to pick up sticks and branches from the recent wind storms. After a bit I decided to park and turn off engine while raking up a large pile.

Engine was off about 10 minutes. Tried to restart and nothing. I tried the other set of plugs, and engine chugged twice and then nothing. Noticed the plugs were wet with fuel. So I left mower alone for about 30-45 minutes. I came back hoping to get mower back in garage, and tried starting again. Mower chugged to life reluctantly, but then ran fine. So I kept the engine on for another hour while I finished the yard cleanup. And parked in garage before turning it off again.

Ended up with a pickup load of dry stick and branches and dry pine needles, which we went ahead and torched just for kicks.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

jhngardner367 said:


> Larry,have you checked the battery cable connections,to see if they're clean/tight? Does the engine seem to turn slower than it should(300rpm)?


During starting the electric starter motor seems to crank just fine. Cables appear in good condition. Battery is pretty new and keeps a good charge.

I also checked the spark plug gap. Old plugs were at 0.030. New ones were not. I adjusted the spark gap to 0.030, but that didn't seem to make a difference.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

It almost sounds as though it's "hot-soaking",a form of pressure induced flooding.Let me know about the compression tests,and the spark tests,too.In the meantime,if it does it again,IMEDIATELY get off and open the fuel cap,while listening for a hissing/wheezing sound from the tank.If you don't hear anything,concentrate on the compression,and electrical tests.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Compression tests reads 120 for both cylinders. Rechecked battery wires. All seem in good order and starter motor cranks stong.

Struggling with the spark testing. Need to rig something up. I still can't see a spart across the plugs with them out. Maybe just bad eyes.

Cranked motor over last evening upon getting home. It started right up, no problem. Let it run a few. Re tinkered the low idle screw, given I found my mower manual and it reflects your tune-up instructions. It also says to hold the throttle link against the throttle speed screw during the tuning. Which I didn't do before. 

And I did take the needle valve from the old carb to the new carb. And that seems fine. Just need to figure how to hook my 8cyl RPM meter to this 2cyl motor to set the correct idle RPM.

Turned motor off, and within a minute turned it back on. Ran fine. Then turned it off. It sat for 30 minutes while I tinkered with my weed-whacker, and then the mower woudn't start. It sat for an hour and a half and then started right up again. So current improvement is that when it wants to start it starts right up.

As you note. It does act like it is flooding.

Next time I'll try messing with the gas cap and see what happens. I've observed no wheezing our hissing from the fuel tank. Cap seems to be okay, and I can't see any appreciable dirt particles in the bottom of the fuel tank that would clog. But them I'm getting plenty of fuel to the carb.


Now, I'm also trying to figure out why my 2cycle weed-wacker will only run at half choke. Arrgh.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*reply*

On the weed whacker,try cleaning the air filter,and check the fuel lines.Also,check the primer for cracks. On the tractor,just check one cylinder at a time,if need be. Another way of checking the coil, is to start the engine,and remove first the left wire,then replacing it,and then the right wire.If it dies,when either wire is removed,then you're losing spark on the OTHER cylinder,so the coil would need replacing. The only other thing I can think of to cause the flooding,would be too high of fuel pressure.


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## Mickey (Aug 14, 2010)

jhngardner367 said:


> On the weed whacker,try cleaning the air filter,and check the fuel lines.Also,check the primer for cracks. On the tractor,just check one cylinder at a time,if need be. *Another way of checking the coil, is to start the engine,and remove first the left wire,then replacing it,and then the right wire.If it dies,when either wire is removed,then you're losing spark on the OTHER cylinder,so the coil would need replacing.* The only other thing I can think of to cause the flooding,would be too high of fuel pressure.



Just asking. Most common design for twins is to use single coil and have both plugs fire at same time. With this design it is not possible to disconnect one plug and have the other cyl continue to run unless you quickly ground the disconnected plug wire. How is this engine different? Does this engine have 2 separate coils?


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

*briggs*

The Briggs&Stratton sevice manual tells you to test the armature this way,on the series 400000 engines.The armature actually has 2 separate windings in the armature body.One for each cylinder,so that one cylinder won't rob the other of spark.This is why,when you're using an ohm meter,you must test each plug wire separately.Some cheaply-made aftermarket armatures only have a single winding,which, although it works,weakens the spark going to the plugs,and usually,they will fail quicker,due to heating up from the extra effort of firing the plugs.I've had customers say that the engine needs a tune up,and found that it was actually only firing on 1 cylinder.These engines WILL run on one cylinder,but may foul plugs,stutter/stall,when the throttle is opened quickly,or put under load.One symptom is a rise in oil level,over a period of time,or fouling plugs."flooding" under load,or running hotter than normal.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Engine fired right up last evening. Ran it a couple minutes, then tried disconnecting one spark plug at a time. Didn't matter which plug I pulled, engine tried to die. Had to quickly restart it.

This morning I'm wondering if I should try to start it with only one plug at a time connected.

Problem now, is back to the original issue. Engine quit, and needed restart. Only way to get it to do that was buy a new set of plugs.

However, now, if the engine has run awhile and won't restart, I just have to wait an hour or two and it will restart.

Only think I've not tried is to get another coil.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

When you take the wire off,the engine should be at mid to high rpm,and it will drop about 100/200rpms,but shouldn't stall.Try replacing the coil,though I hate to tell you to,since they're not cheap.It'spossible that the coil is too weak,or it's separating,when warm,and losing spark.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

I know it is sparking because while I wasn't able to see a spark I was able to feel plenty of shock.. from both plug wires.

Anyway, something is out of whack, and we've tried everything but replacing the coil. I'll start looking for another one and see what I can come up with.


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## Lawrence1210 (Jan 25, 2011)

Update on the riding more saga.

Was worried I'd have engine issues like I did the latter half of last year.

However, the little 18hp B.S. started right up. I tried the tune-up instructions you sent, but with no success. The second carb works well, but it has a different kind of needle valve. So it ran no different with it in or out. This year I ended up moving the Choke cable a bit and re-setting the slow idle screw. But it seems to be working very well.

Something we talked about last year was engine issues during the hottest months and fuel concerns. So I got a new fuel filter and made sure I have new gasoline in it this year. If you don't hear anything more on this then whatever we did to it last year got it working for this year.


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