# Ford 3400 Power Steering Pump removal



## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

I have an old Ford 3400 (Commerical) with a 730 Loader on the front. Need to remove the power steering pump for replacement or overhaul (to be determined). According to the Shop Service Manual for my style pump:
"On models with integral pump and reservoir refer to Fig. 10. Remove the two cap screws securing pump to engine front cover and lift off pump and reservoir as a unit."

Because of the loader I cannot see the cap screws referenced. There are no videos on U-tube for this job. Has anybody done one of these? Is one cap screw behind the reservoir? Manual view of Fig. 10 does not show these referenced cap screws. Would removing the hydraulic lines make them visible? Any help is appreciated.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

The mounting bolts are not behind or under the reservoir. They both come from the front, through the timing covers and into the pump body. They are not easily seen (or accessed) and are 3/8" bolts. There are other bolts in the area, but they will be 5/16". Those hold the timing gearcase outer cover and don't need to be removed. I try to blow as much crud as possible off with compressed air, then feel around with a 9/16 socket to locate the two bolt heads. With the loader frame in the way it will be no picnic. 

If you take it off with reservoir installed you will have to fight it past the oil pressure switch. Actually, you'll fight with the switch either way, even if you remove the tank first. I would probably try to unscrew the switch first if possible.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

Fedup said:


> The mounting bolts are not behind or under the reservoir. They both come from the front, through the timing covers and into the pump body. They are not easily seen (or accessed) and are 3/8" bolts. There are other bolts in the area, but they will be 5/16". Those hold the timing gearcase outer cover and don't need to be removed. I try to blow as much crud as possible off with compressed air, then feel around with a 9/16 socket to locate the two bolt heads. With the loader frame in the way it will be no picnic.
> 
> If you take it off with reservoir installed you will have to fight it past the oil pressure switch. Actually, you'll fight with the switch either way, even if you remove the tank first. I would probably try to unscrew the switch first if possible.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

Wow!!! Just the info I needed. Now next week begins a long overdue project. In past 2 years have serviced most of loader system and it works great. Had also installed a sleeve on the power steering column that was successful. Just recently got the rear hydraulic system in operation and installed box blade. Also wrestled a new fan belt on last winter. The PS fluid was disappearing and not on ground. Finally figured out fluid was leaking into crankcase. Bad seal in PS pump I think. Let the fun begin. Thankfully I'm retired and have plenty of time.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

If the pump has more issues than just oil transfer, then you might consider a new pump. Plenty of aftermarket options out there, some better than others like everything else. Beware of the super cheap ones, they're cheap for a reason. 

If it's still working, tractor steers ok (when it has oil), then I would suggest a seal kit. Be advised some earlier pumps had only one shaft seal with two lips each facing away from each other. That seal is hard to impossible to find now and most(if not all) kits come with two seals which are installed facing away from each other. If the pump body was made for the single seal there may not be room for two seals behind the snap ring. If that's where you find yourself, come back and we can discuss options.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

Fedup said:


> If the pump has more issues than just oil transfer, then you might consider a new pump. Plenty of aftermarket options out there, some better than others like everything else. Beware of the super cheap ones, they're cheap for a reason.
> 
> If it's still working, tractor steers ok (when it has oil), then I would suggest a seal kit. Be advised some earlier pumps had only one shaft seal with two lips each facing away from each other. That seal is hard to impossible to find now and most(if not all) kits come with two seals which are installed facing away from each other. If the pump body was made for the single seal there may not be room for two seals behind the snap ring. If that's where you find yourself, come back and we can discuss options.


Good info. Next week is the start of something BIG? Wish me luck. Great tip on the seal info. I'll be looking to see which it has.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

One more thing -- if you opt for the seal kit...don't take the pump apart until you have all the parts on hand. You might take the front flange off to look at the shaft seal(s), but don't take the gears and blocks out just yet. When you get into it, you must pay attention to how things came apart, clean each part separately, and lay it all out in a sequence that makes sense to you. The bearing blocks MUST go back exactly as they came out. They will show feint marks on one side where the body seals were, and the reliefs need to go back where they were. It's all too easy to get one or both upside down/backwards or whatever. They can fit in multiple ways, but the pump will only work properly if it's assembled correctly. Getting the pump out and back in will be enough fun done once. You won't want to do it twice.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

Fedup said:


> One more thing -- if you opt for the seal kit...don't take the pump apart until you have all the parts on hand. You might take the front flange off to look at the shaft seal(s), but don't take the gears and blocks out just yet. When you get into it, you must pay attention to how things came apart, clean each part separately, and lay it all out in a sequence that makes sense to you. The bearing blocks MUST go back exactly as they came out. They will show feint marks on one side where the body seals were, and the reliefs need to go back where they were. It's all too easy to get one or both upside down/backwards or whatever. They can fit in multiple ways, but the pump will only work properly if it's assembled correctly. Getting the pump out and back in will be enough fun done once. You won't want to do it twice.


Today started on the 3400 PS. Disconnected battery, drained crankcase, removed oil filter, could not get the oil pressure switch out, disconnected the PS high and low pressure lines from PS pump, found 2 bolts in front of PS pump: one was 9/16" head (lower bolt) removed, only other bolt was above it but was 1/2" head loosened it (see in pic to left). Removed PS reservoir cover and snaked it out. Now how do I get the PS pump loose, should I use a wooden dowel to tap it loose? Really seems stuck. Don't want to break anything. Can't find another 9\16" bolt up there in front.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Might try removing the tin L shaped shield. It should be held by one or more of the 5/16 front cover bolts. It may somehow be obstructing view/access to the other 3/8 bolt holding the pump on. I usually don't put the shield back on as I've never had it's purpose clearly defined. Have yet to find that running without it has caused any problem.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

Good news. Finally able to see what I was trying to do by removing the hood and generator (3 bolts and cable). That revealed the "missing" 9/16 in. upper PS bolt. It was covered with so much gunk it was impossible to see right under the front of the generator. Then it all came off easily. The 2 - 9/16" PS bolts also hold the L-shield on. A 1/2" bolt to the front does not but goes thru a very large hole in the shield. That shield is staying off. Will be pricing PS pumps for a few days, just don't want to have to do it twice. Thanks for all the tips. Made the job a lot easier knowing what to look for.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

OK, new power steering pump just came in. Is there supposed to be a thin gasket between the PS pump and the ear where it bolts on? The old one did not have a gasket. There is no relief for a large O-ring. I can make a thin one from some thin gasket material I have left from my old 1952 Cub or should I just buy a tube of "liquid" gasket sealer and go with that. I know it needs to be sealed somehow...


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Moondoggie said:


> OK, new power steering pump just came in. Is there supposed to be a thin gasket between the PS pump and the ear where it bolts on? The old one did not have a gasket. There is no relief for a large O-ring. I can make a thin one from some thin gasket material I have left from my old 1952 Cub or should I just buy a tube of "liquid" gasket sealer and go with that. I know it needs to be sealed somehow...


There is an Oring that goes in there. A relief is cut in the block plate to accept the oring.
PS, I never understood the reasoning for putting the two seals in opposite ways. Think about it:
There is no pressure pushing the engine oil into the pump. But on a 3000/3400 tractor there is 7-800 psi pushing the steering oil into the engine. I always installed both of them the same way - with the spring towards the pump.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

Ultradog said:


> There is an Oring that goes in there. A relief is cut in the block plate to accept the oring.
> PS, I never understood the reasoning for putting the two seals in opposite ways. Think about it:
> There is no pressure pushing the engine oil into the pump. But on a 3000/3400 tractor there is 7-800 psi pushing the steering oil into the engine. I always installed both of them the same way - with the spring towards the pump.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

Thanks. I looked in the shipping box again and found the O-ring. Saw it listed on the packing list but it didn't fall out so I thought they had forgotten it. Next week will be fun putting it all back together. When I get it all together I will post a picture of my late Dad's old 3400 that he bought used from a contractor about 1989.


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## Moondoggie (Jun 15, 2019)

Ok...Finally finished the 3400 PS pump replace. Got it completely back together today. New oil and filter naturally. No leaks on any of the line fittings. Added hydraulic fluid to pump. Jacked up front end so it was easier to turn steering wheel lock to lock and bleed the air from PS system. So Dad's old Ford 3400 is back in service, hydraulics for loader and box blade working fine. So glad PS is back and not leaking. Here's the pics I promised. Thanks to FedUp, Ultradog






































































and the others.


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## sandtaz (Jan 16, 2009)

Moondoggie said:


> Thanks. I looked in the shipping box again and found the O-ring. Saw it listed on the packing list but it didn't fall out so I thought they had forgotten it. Next week will be fun putting it all back together. When I get it all together I will post a picture of my late Dad's old 3400 that he bought used from a contractor about 1989.


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## sandtaz (Jan 16, 2009)

I am about to replace the PS pump on my 3400. The replies to your post will be invaluable. Thanks to everyone. Moondoggie, where did you get your pump? Have you been satisfied? Look forward to your response. Tom.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Ultradog said:


> ...
> PS, I never understood the reasoning for putting the two seals in opposite ways. Think about it:
> There is no pressure pushing the engine oil into the pump. But on a 3000/3400 tractor there is 7-800 psi pushing the steering oil into the engine. I always installed both of them the same way - with the spring towards the pump.


I beg to differ on that one.

The crankcase always have pressure pulsations to a degree depending on the amount of blow-by for the engine in question. The engine is ventilated, but that is through a pipe connected to the valve cover. The pressure is released through small openings in the cylinder head. That means that you will get pressure build up in the crankcase.

The power steering pump builds the pressure between the pump elements and there should not be much pressure build up behind the shaft seal. Anyhow, the pressure is very low when the cylinder is not operating (no load).

Let us say you are driving downhill, not turning the steering wheel and then apply the brakes. Unfiltered engine oil is splashing towards the front cover. The seal with the lip forward is then stopping the oil from being pushed into the pump by the crankcase pressure pulses. A seal with only lip backwards will let the oil enter, and with the oil you get small metal particles that, by time, will harm the pump. Probably a great deal of the particles will remain between the seal and the shaft and grind the seal and shaft.

So, there is a reason to why there are two seals, and why they should be placed in different directions.
Some pumps have one double lip seal.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hacke said:


> I beg to differ on that one.
> 
> The crankcase always have pressure pulsations to a degree depending on the amount of blow-by for the engine in question. The engine is ventilated, but that is through a pipe connected to the valve cover. The pressure is released through small openings in the cylinder head. That means that you will get pressure build up in the crankcase.
> 
> ...


I stand by my earlier statement.
The PS pumps operate at ~ 700 or 1100 psi depending on which model Ford you have.
Compared to that, the pressure in the crank case is negligible.
If you are building any pressure in the crank case you will blow the front and rear main seals out of the engine. As for metal particles in the oil, that is what engine oil filters are for.
If you have much particulate of any sort in your oil you will be replacing rod, main and cam bearings in pretty short order and a leaking PS pump seal will be the least of your problems.


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## Eric Stubbs (Oct 15, 2020)

Does the timing cover have to come off to get to the two bolts holding powersteering pump


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Eric Stubbs said:


> Does the timing cover have to come off to get to the two bolts holding powersteering pump


No.
Where is your repair manual?


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## No Power (May 10, 2021)

sandtaz said:


> I am about to replace the PS pump on my 3400. The replies to your post will be invaluable. Thanks to everyone. Moondoggie, where did you get your pump? Have you been satisfied? Look forward to your response. Tom.



HI I have the same problem with my 1965 3400. It has the early PS Pump with the separate reservoir. It also has a monster loader on it which block a lot of the access points to the pump. I bought the replacement O Ring kit but I’m leaning toward just replacing the pump. Where do you find a replacement for the old pump. The only ones that I find are for the new internal reservoir pump. Can you tell me where you found yours or can the newer PS pumps be swapped in?

Also my lines from the pump to steering column are original and look pretty beat. I would hazard a guess that when I crack the line fitting the line will fail. Any Idea where to find replacement lines?

Thank you


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