# NH TC30 clutch issue



## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

Hello. This is my first post here. I am looking for some assistance to diagnose a clutch problem with my New Holland TC 30. It was purchased this year, used, with around 450 hours on it. I was using it the other day, when one of the springs that is part of the clutch linkage got removed by a piece of brush. It was the clutch pedal return spring, and I ordered a new one. In the meantime, I used the tractor for a couple more hours, without the return spring on the clutch pedal. Today, the clutch pedal ceased to operate the clutch at all. When the pedal is depressed, the rod that connects to the clutch mechanism does not move at all (*edit: this is not correct. The rod does move. I had been looking at the wrong rod). I am concerned that the clutch may have gotten burnt out by my having operated the tractor without the clutch return spring. Any info on how the clutch linkage works, and if operating the tractor without a clutch pedal return spring would burn out a clutch, would be appreciated. 

I already am worried about having to replace the clutch.

*I see that I should have posted this in the New Holland forum.

*


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## tcreeley (Jan 2, 2012)

I just replaced that same spring last week. I used it for a week without a problem. - Just guessing but I think it may be just a linkage problem. here is a parts diagram from Messicks.

I hope this helps. Messicks has NH parts and diagrams for all of it.

http://www.messicks.com/nh/58343?sectionId=10360&diagramId=58343_397729


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

Thanks for your reply, and the diagram. It is a relief to know that it could be a linkage problem. I have been worried that without the return spring, just the weight of the pedal could have caused the clutch to drag, and burnt out the clutch. The diagram is very helpful. I will look at the linkage in the daylight tomorrow.


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

I have looked at the linkage, and that is not the problem. Have also tried adjusting the linkage, and it did not help. The clutch does not engage. I have a terrible feeling that the clutch has been wrecked by operating the tractor without the clutch pedal return spring.


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

cedar,
It is possible that without the pedal return spring, the release bearing was riding against the fingers of the pressure plate and either the bearing came apart or it wore through the fingers on the pressure plate.

Parts diagrams show a largeish rubber plug on each side of the clutch housing. Perhaps it's possible to take out the rubber plug and see inside to tell what's going on?

HTH,
Mark


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

Parts diagram.
Rubber plug is item 9. 
Says there are 2 required so I am assuming there's one on the other side as well.

Mark


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

QUOTE: "When the pedal is depressed, the rod that connects to the clutch mechanism does not move at all."

When you depress the clutch pedal, the rod has to move. You must have sheared a pin or key or a bolt in the linkage.

There is a cross-bolt on the clutch shaft inside the bell housing that holds the clutch fork in position. The piece of brush may have sheared this bolt. But the clutch rod has to rotate the clutch shaft.


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

Big T. I should have edited my first post. Will do so. It was dark, and I was looking at the brake rod at the time. I figured this out in the morning. The clutch rod does move, but the clutch does not disengage. I have tried adjusting the linkage, and this did not help.


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

Mark, thanks for the information about the rubber plug, and the diagrams I have a feeling that what you are saying, is what has occurred. I will try to remove one or both of plugs, and see what I can see. 

I have gotten a estimate of repair cost from the shop at the local tractor dealer. If the clutch needs to be replaced they will charge around $1600.00 for labor. The parts would be $600.00, for remanufactured parts. I am reading up on what is involved in doing the work myself. It seems fairly straightforward. I have read that splitting the tractor is what takes the most time. Not having split a tractor before, I was hesitant to consider doing the work myself, though the cost of the repair is making me look at things differently. I have a dry place to work on it, with a concrete floor. Trying to find a repair manual for the tractor.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Cedar,

I've seen this happen before. A guy hit a rock with his clutch linkage and sheared a cross-bolt that attaches the clutch fork to the cross-shaft. Your clutch is probably OK, but you'll have to split the tractor to find out. May be a matter of simply replacing the bolt.

The price quote of $1600 labor seems quite high. Look for a local farm tractor shop to do the job. You should be able to get by for less than $1k labor, although I may be obsolete in my pricing because I haven't hired this done in a long time. I used to have a farmer friend that did this type work. He got too old and gave it up.

A split isn't all that difficult. Get a shop/repair manual before you start. My manual covered everything. Do the job on a hard surface, smooth concrete is ideal. I use two floor jacks with wheels, one from the front supporting the engine, and one from the rear supporting the tranny. Put a short piece of wood board on the jack face to distribute the load, and also so you don't mar the engine or tranny. One important step is to use wooden wedges between the front axle and bolster (both sides) so the engine doesn't tip sideways when separated. I use a short length of 1"x4" pine (about 15" long) as a wedge. Drive it in firmly on both sides and wire it in place so it doesn't come out. I roll the rear end away (my manual calls for rolling the front end away). I think rolling the rear away is the simplest way to go. Post back with any questions.


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

The thing is that after the spring was torn off by some brush, the clutch still worked. It is only after I continued to use the tractor, that the clutch then would not disengage, after several hours of work. 

Thanks for the advice on splitting the tractor. I am in the process of trying to locate a manual for it, or at least the section of the manual that covers the clutch.


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

I removed the rubber plug on the left side of the tractor, and peered inside. From what is visible, the inside of the bell housing looks clean. No sign of clutch pieces, or filings, or dust even. The flywheel looks to be ok. Hard to see much else.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

QUOTE: "The thing is that after the spring was torn off by some brush, the clutch still worked. It is only after I continued to use the tractor, that the clutch then would not disengage, after several hours of work". 
__________________________________________________________

The bolt may not have been completely sheared, but close. Continued use of the clutch finished the shearing?? 

If the bolt is sheared, the clutch remains engaged because the fork is no longer functional to disengage the clutch. 

OK, so you know that the clutch rod moves when you push the clutch pedal down, make sure that the cross shaft through the clutch housing rotates with the linkage movement when you push the clutch down.


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

The clutch shaft that goes into the housing moves. Just that the clutch does not disengage by moving the shaft.


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

Cedar,
Try using a mirror and a flashlight. I've often been amazed at what I could see with one of those telescoping 2" mirrors from the parts store and a flashlight. But then I've often been exasperated at what I COULDN'T see with the same apparatus.

Can you tell if the release bearing carrier is moving when the shaft going through the clutch housing turns? If it doesn't it might just be the key/pin holds the yoke to the shaft as Big T said.

Mark


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

I called a local tractor dealer, and one of their technicians stopped by on his way home from work (he lives not far away it turns out). He looked into the inspection hole in the bell housing and said that the shaft inside the bell housing appeared to be working. He found something I had missed though. The cross shaft (that Big T mentioned in his earlier post) where it goes into the bell housing was cracked and bent. It was bent so badly that the clutch pedal pretty much did nothing. It is my employer's tractor, and I have been so concerned about having operated the tractor without the clutch return spring, and fearing that this ruined the clutch, that I missed the bent and cracked shaft. The technician is going to stop by to weld it later this week. Will post back here as to whether it fixed the problem.

The shaft was moving, but it was cracked half way through. As near as I can tell, it was just bending back and forth rather than operating the linkage as it is supposed to. 

Thanks for all of the good advice. All of it has helped.


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## cedar (Jan 22, 2017)

Welding the cracked shaft has gotten the tractor operational again! What a relief to not have to split the tractor. A mechanic from the local tractor dealer did the welding. He was knowledgeable about the clutch in the tractor, and said that there is a spring inside the bell housing that keeps the release bearing from riding on the pressure plate. He was of the view that having operated the tractor without the pedal return spring should not have caused damage.


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