# John Deere 3010 Clutch and Hydro Failure



## cornhusker17 (Apr 25, 2017)

My neighbor has a Deere 3010 with a loader that he was looking to get rid of it. However it currently doesnt move. The clutch is dead and the hydro's do not work at all. I read another article that discussed a transmission disconnect considering both of these issues happened at the same time? Can someone please assist with what might need to be done to get this machine working again. It runs great - just wont move.
Thanks for your time.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Cornhusker,

Welcome aboard the tractor forum.

Sounds like the clutch is gone. Loaders are hard on clutches, and loaders also add to the work of splitting the tractor to replace the clutch. 

I don't know where your hydraulic pump is located, but it is apparently associated with the clutch failure. 

The odds are that this is going to be a very expensive repair. Probably more than the tractor is worth.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The clutch is mechanical, check the linkage. However as stated by sixbales if it does not function at all to allow the engine to move the tractor it likely needs replacement. 

If the clutch is stuck and will not release, that can be usually corrected by putting the tractor in the highest gear, holding the clutch pedal down and giving it a pull with another tractor to break the disc loose. But you must feel resistance on the pedal when it is depressed for this to work.

Some foolish folks lift the rear wheels, start the tractor, put it in high, hold the clutch in and drop the wheels off the blocks to break the disc loose. Not recommended as the tractor can flip right onto the operator in an eye blink if the clutch disc does not release immediately, or toss the operator under the rear wheels just before running over them.

If the Clutch linkage is not meeting resistance from the pressure plate when the pedal is pressed, look to the left side of the transmission case, follow the clutch lever down to the bolt on the side. Loosen the bolt, probably will require the use of penetrating oil and a hammer, then move the slide forward to gain more free travel. You will need to service the clutch when you can if this fixes the immediate problem. It usually indicates an end of service life for the clutch disc.

The hydraulic pump is on the front of the engine, and equipped with an electric unloader valve that opens a port so the engine starts in cold weather without fighting the hydraulics. Usual fix is to simply unbolt the valve and replace a couple O rings. The pump itself is a variable displacement unit that seldom fails.

The tractor is also equipped with a priority valve that can be shut down killing hydraulics to the loader. If the three point and power steering continue to work, and the loader does not, check that valve to see how it is selected.

The intake filter for the hydraulics is a plug on the side of the transmission. Move from the steel housing on the hydraulic filter past the hose connections, and the sump screen is under the plug on the bottom edge of the housing. You cannot miss it, you will see a machined round flat with a removable plug in the center.

These are excellent tractors and virtually everything that may break or wear out is readily available.


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## TraderMark (Nov 15, 2011)

3010 hydraulics are powered by a front mounted radial piston pump.
These pumps cannot "suck" oil from the reservoir, they have to be fed by a charge pump.
The charge pump is located in the transmission housing and is driven by gears in the transmission. If the transmission is not turning, there's no charge pressure to the main hydraulic pump, so no hydraulics.

Some of the Deere industrial equipment, backhoes, etc had the transmission disconnect you mentioned but I can't remember if the ag tractors had this feature or not. I cannot find any reference to a transmission disconnect in the JD parts catalog.

HTH,
Mark


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Ag tractors do not have transmission disconnect. Trader Mark is correct that the tractor must run and the clutch be engaged for the charge pump to operate.

If the clutch is completely disengaged that would be the likely root of all your trouble. A badly worn and slipping clutch will normally still operate the charge pump. Look for a block or latch on the clutch linkage that is holding the clutch depressed, That was a common practice when these were stored for extended periods to keep the disc from bonding to the flywheel or to the pressure plate.

Not sure about in your area, but a running 3010 with wide front and loader still will sell for $13-15,000 around here.


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## cornhusker17 (Apr 25, 2017)

Thanks everyone for your descriptive responses. I plan on looking at next weekend and will update what I find out. Thanks again!


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## cornhusker17 (Apr 25, 2017)

Also, it's noteworthy to mention that the owner stated everything worked prior to it sitting for two years. My guess is that the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. I will investigate some methods to free the clutch once I take a look at it.


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