# 5000 Ford electrical issues.



## duggiewebe (Oct 21, 2013)

I am finally getting around to following the advice I got on the other issues I previously posted about. I changed out the original tach and dash with a new one I had bought. When we got it all hooked up, there is no power going to anything anywhere, with the key on or off. Not only had the previous owner removed the safety switch from the ignition but they have run a single wire from the battery to the ignition switch bypassing the voltage regulator, see the attached pic, completely. Since everything else seems to run through the regulator I'm guessing with no power going through it that's why nothing works and why my battery does not charge. 
With all that being said, is there somewhere I can get the proper wiring instructions, could the ignition being wired directly to the battery be the reason for the burnt wire to my glow plug? 
Thanks again for any and all help.


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## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy Duggiewebe,

Welcome back!! 

Ford tractor wiring diagrams for a 5000 are difficult to find. I have attached a wiring diagram for a European built Ford 3000, which may be useful to some degree. You need to get an I&T manual (about 100 pages) for a Ford 5000 tractor - costs about $35. They usually have a wiring diagram in the back of the manual. I think the FO-29 manual may be best for a '74 model 5000. 

Power to the instrument panel is provided by the ignition switch in the "on" position. There should be a white wire from the keyswitch "on" position the voltage stabilizer on the instrument panel.

Bypassing the safety switch is common practice with many individuals. Your choice, but if you have kids that play on the tractor, remember that it can start in gear without the safety switch.

If there is no wire from the battery to the regulator 'B' terminal, then there is no chance that your charging system will work. The PO bypassed it for a reason. You probably have a defective/shorted regulator or generator, or both. 

My GUESS regarding the burned wire to the thermostart (not a glow plug) is that it is incorrectly wired, OR, the thermostart may have a short circuit to ground? There is a terminal (spring loaded portion) on the ignition switch for the thermostart. You can get a replacement thermostart unit for about $25 on ebay. 

There is a post written on 8-24-2014 by argo62 regarding wiring problems on a Ford 2000 gasser. Hacke posted a great response c/w diagrams and charts that will be helpful to you. Have a look at it.

Good luck.


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello Duggie,

I would pull the generator and regulator and take them to a shop for testing. I think an auto parts store may be able to test them for you. Check it out. The regulators are often a problem, but the generator running with a defective/disconnected regulator may be toast as well. 

You can test the generator yourself by running it as a motor. Remove the belt from it and connect the battery to both armature and field. It should run as a motor. 

Another note: The thermostart unit heats/vaporizes diesel fuel and injects it into the intake manifold for cold weather starting. You need to allow it to heat up 10-15 seconds, longer in extreme cold weather. Some say it injects fire into the intake manifold. Don't know about that - I've never taken the time to check it out to see what it does.

Another note: Some Fords have a pushbutton to energize the thermostart unit, rather than using the spring-loaded portion of the keyswitch. It will probably be below the keyswitch. My tractor has the pushbutton.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

A link to wiring diagram for a tractor with "C" prefixed serial number (made in the USA) as well:
http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2963

Hope you sort it out, "personalized" electrical wirings are often best to tear down completely and rebuild according to wiring diagram.

The regulator seems to lack an ordinary earth tab ("E"). Make sure the regulator is grounded properly.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

*Help with testing 5000 regulator please*

I'm not getting power to the field terminal at generator, cap removed from regulator and contact isn't closing. What closes the field contact? I have good Battery voltage to both B terminals. But nothing at either one at generator. Is the other terminal at the generator the output. shouldn't it have B+ Thanks


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy lcrepairs,

Sounds like you need a new regulator. Common problem. Also have the generator checked at an auto parts store to ensure it is working correctly.


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## lcrepairs (Jul 25, 2015)

Maybe. But I couldn't make it charge by powering the field. I'm done with that junky Lucas. 3rd time it's had trouble. I ordered alt conversation kit.


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## duggiewebe (Oct 21, 2013)

From the best I can tell, my tractor is a 1973 made in England. Apparently it is positively grounded which was a major unknown obstacle I had to over come when doing the lights. I have had my generator checked twice and it is working and with the fear of frying a new regulator, here is my next issue. If I do not keep my battery on a charger it will drain itself while setting not being used. It is a new battery that I have had checked and it tests out to be good. My pastures are a distance from my house so I do some late evening driving where I need my lights. I have drained the battery while driving back to the house one night so the power is not getting back to the battery to keep it charged while using it. Is this a regulator issue, I'll be testing it this weekend, and if it is do I have to be careful to no fry it when I install the new one?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy Duggie, 

Welcome back to the tractor forum.

Here is your first issue.....Your Ford 5000 left the factory as a negative ground machine. All Fords after 1965 were negative ground. 

If you are certain you have a positive ground, it's only a matter of reversing the cables and repolarizing the generator and you can put it to negative ground. 

Don't forget to re-do your lights. The lights should be a simple, straightforward hookup. 

My concern is that you have a short circuit somewhere in your system, causing the battery to drain when the tractor is left idle. These old Ford tractors are notorious for electrical fires.


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## duggiewebe (Oct 21, 2013)

I did have to connect my lights direct you the battery to get them to work but if I had them connected to the negative terminal and touched the wire to the fender they would work.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

A simple test to check for leakage when the tractor is "off" is to pull the ground cable off the battery and brush the cable connector on the battery terminal. If you see any electrical arcs, you have electrical leakage somewhere. If you do this at dusk or in the dark, you will be better able to see arcs.

The lights should work if you switch to negative ground.


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