# Rear rim removal struggle



## Better2DIY (2 mo ago)

I have a Craftsman 18.5 hp - model 917.272040 (1999), 46" cut with hydrostatic trans. The mower deck rusted out but I still use it for hauling utility dump cart, boat trailer, stuff like that.
I tried to put new tires on a few years ago but couldn't get the rear rims off the axle. I opted to just put tubes in and was able to do that with just some minor struggle with the rims still on. The tires are getting pretty bad with a lot of splitting in the sidewalls. They're gonna give out eventually. I've been driving it for a few years without the washers, rings, keepers and cap on hoping it might loosen itself up but no go.
I'm getting older, and I don't think I could get new tires on without removing the rims from the machine, so...
I don't want to cut the rims off and destroy them. Tires are expensive enough.
I don't want to damage the axles or the transmission with a lot of hard banging.
I promise if I ever get them off, I'll use a generous amount of anti-seize on it!!
I've used this forum to keep this old buggy running well, hoping someone will have a good suggestion. Thanks!


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Are they 2 piece wheels....as in 2 halves that bolt together...?


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Air Hammer, Oxy Torch, and a garden hose ...... Heat, Quench, Apply Air Hammer.... Sometimes takes a couple of tries, but eventually works every time. See video in link below starting at about 2:40

Removing Rusted Rim -- Starts at 2:40


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## Better2DIY (2 mo ago)

thedukes said:


> Are they 2 piece wheels....as in 2 halves that bolt together...?


Single piece, 
Part #106108X427


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## Better2DIY (2 mo ago)

Bob Driver said:


> Air Hammer, Oxy Torch, and a garden hose ...... Heat, Quench, Apply Air Hammer.... Sometimes takes a couple of tries, but eventually works every time. See video in link below starting at about 2:40
> 
> Removing Rusted Rim -- Starts at 2:40


Good video. Tried it with propane torch but probably didn't get hot enough. Been meaning to get a small oxy-acetylene torch kit. Maybe now is the time. Thanks!


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Better2DIY said:


> Good video. Tried it with propane torch but probably didn't get hot enough. Been meaning to get a small oxy-acetylene torch kit. Maybe now is the time. Thanks!


You're kidding yourself with a propane torch, that's just a slightly bigger version of a Bic lighter


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## linquistmarc (5 mo ago)

Make a wheel puller. Those wheels usually have wheel weight holes. Take a piece of steel channel or angle iron (thicker the better, like 1/4” or better) that is a couple of feet longer then the rim is wide and put the same configuration of wheel weight holes and axel hole centers on it. Make sure to use a wide piece of material for stability, like three or four inches wide. Bolt the angle down to the rim using all-thread through the wheel weight holes but make sure you lay two short 2x4 wood blocks under each end of the steel to provide both some space to work and some grip against rotation as you crank on this wheel puller. Make the center all-thread rod that will push against the axel the same diameter as the axel and and if you can find a short piece of pipe long enough to go over the axel flange that is sticking out of wheel, it just needs to stick past the axel flange enough to keep your puller’s center rod aligned correctly. You don’t haft to have this but if the rod isn’t aligned perfectly with the axel then it would help you in that regard. Either way, make sure you bevel that end of the all-thread a little so it doesn’t hang up on the edge of the wheel axel flange. So, tighten that channel down tight to the rim with those 2x4 between them, and then put the all-thread through the center hole with the nut on the inside toward the wheel, you may want a washer in there too to cut down on the friction, but put a little grease or oil there under and in the nut if it gets hard to turn. OK, let’s assume you have the machine blocked up a little and the extra length on that channel iron you use is extending out past the rim to your left side and contacting the ground, this will help keep the wheel from rotating. You can also have the machine in gear to help also. So, now you can put your open end wrench down behind the channel and turn the nut to push the rod against the axel, those 2x4 blocks are giving you the room to work the wrench back and fourth. Tap the end of the rod as you go and you shouldn’t have to much trouble, even sit on the fender if that channel starts to lift the machine as you wrench. Good luck.


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## Honest lou (2 mo ago)

Better2DIY said:


> I have a Craftsman 18.5 hp - model 917.272040 (1999), 46" cut with hydrostatic trans. The mower deck rusted out but I still use it for hauling utility dump cart, boat trailer, stuff like that.
> I tried to put new tires on a few years ago but couldn't get the rear rims off the axle. I opted to just put tubes in and was able to do that with just some minor struggle with the rims still on. The tires are getting pretty bad with a lot of splitting in the sidewalls. They're gonna give out eventually. I've been driving it for a few years without the washers, rings, keepers and cap on hoping it might loosen itself up but no go.
> I'm getting older, and I don't think I could get new tires on without removing the rims from the machine, so...
> I don't want to cut the rims off and destroy them. Tires are expensive enough.
> ...


I use a Bosch rotary drill in the hammer mode. You have to hammer on it a bit but it will eventually break the rust bonds and come loose. I used to use my torch, but it will do some damage if you aren't careful. I also built my own tire changer from one I bought from harbor freight. I initially had it bolted to my work bench, but decided I wanted to take it with me, so I welded a mount to to some 4 x 4 stock, ￼








and it goes in my trailer hitch.


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## Always something (6 mo ago)

Cut them old tires off . Uitilty knife and a small grinder Mount the new ones without taking the wheel off .Drain the oil Tuwith a cutoff whell. Turn it on its side .Might take the hood off so you don't damage it .Use turtle wax pump spray tire cleaner to lubricate the tire bead and rim .If the rim will hold tubeless put in a new valve stem .If not order tubes off ebay .Cheapest place to get them .Big big screw givers. Or old style jack handle lug wrenches make the best small tire irons .Done it more than once .Beating them stuck wheels off takes forever .


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## Always something (6 mo ago)

I hate this phone. I use a good sharp uitilty knife and a small side grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the bead wire.


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## Better2DIY (2 mo ago)

Honest lou said:


> I use a Bosch rotary drill in the hammer mode. You have to hammer on it a bit but it will eventually break the rust bonds and come loose. I used to use my torch, but it will do some damage if you aren't careful. I also built my own tire changer from one I bought from harbor freight. I initially had it bolted to my work bench, but decided I wanted to take it with me, so I welded a mount to to some 4 x 4 stock, ￼
> View attachment 83321
> 
> and it goes in my trailer hitch.


Like this setup and the hammer drill idea! Winter coming soon in Michigan so my postpone this task until spring. Thanks for all the great feedback.
Honest Lou: Aim High brother! USAF 1975-83.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Honest lou said:


> I use a Bosch rotary drill in the hammer mode. You have to hammer on it a bit but it will eventually break the rust bonds and come loose. I used to use my torch, but it will do some damage if you aren't careful. I also built my own tire changer from one I bought from harbor freight. I initially had it bolted to my work bench, but decided I wanted to take it with me, so I welded a mount to to some 4 x 4 stock, ￼
> View attachment 83321
> 
> and it goes in my trailer hitch.


I've had a couple of those HF tire changers... Never had any luck with them on really tough tires and they didn't hold up the way I needed in my shop. Finally broke down and bought one that will work on about any tire and it still works fine after 7 years of heavy use in my shop. It's exactly the same design as a CH-23 and those sell for around $600. Mine was $129 at the time and shipping from Agri Supply's Tifton GA store to Tupelo MS was $60. They are a bit more expensive now and I'm sure the shipping has gone up also. I probably change change more small tires in a month than most guys change in a couple of years, but that machine has probably made 10-15 times what I paid for it and still works like the day I got it..... 

Small Tire Changer

Compare their $185 unit to the $600 one below


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## linquistmarc (5 mo ago)

When I acquired my 2n it had two Kelly Springfield tires on the rear that appeared to have very little wear, but one tube soon began leaking air so I took it to Les Schwab Tire for what I thought would be an easy job for them. These guys probably change more tractor tires in the N.W. U.S. then anyone else so when I got a call back from the dealer saying they couldn't break the bead loose I was surprised, he said that he didn't know what type of bead locking sealant was used to mount them but it was starting to tear the bead out of the tire when they tried to break it loose. I went down and picked it up and was kind of mad at the damage they had done but thought the tire was still salvageable if I could get the bead loose without further damage. Their technique was to use a tire sledge and hammer the sidewall to pop the bead. I figured if I did a slow and gradual pressure on a wider area right near the rim I could get it to come loose. So I made a shoe to match the wheel diameter and rigged my vehicle lift to do the job. Once I had it loose I let the tire guys finish the dismount and then I took the rim and welded 1/16" x 4" flat bar over the center area that had rusted enough to cause the tube to puncture on the rust scale. At that point I decided that the old tire was too shot to survive a remount so I went ahead and paid them for a new one and had them mound it.


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## hharrison (2 mo ago)

Better2DIY said:


> I have a Craftsman 18.5 hp - model 917.272040 (1999), 46" cut with hydrostatic trans. The mower deck rusted out but I still use it for hauling utility dump cart, boat trailer, stuff like that.
> I tried to put new tires on a few years ago but couldn't get the rear rims off the axle. I opted to just put tubes in and was able to do that with just some minor struggle with the rims still on. The tires are getting pretty bad with a lot of splitting in the sidewalls. They're gonna give out eventually. I've been driving it for a few years without the washers, rings, keepers and cap on hoping it might loosen itself up but no go.
> I'm getting older, and I don't think I could get new tires on without removing the rims from the machine, so...
> I don't want to cut the rims off and destroy them. Tires are expensive enough.
> ...


Use a pully puller......


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

linquistmarc said:


> When I acquired my 2n it had two Kelly Springfield tires on the rear that appeared to have very little wear, but one tube soon began leaking air so I took it to Les Schwab Tire for what I thought would be an easy job for them. These guys probably change more tractor tires in the N.W. U.S. then anyone else so when I got a call back from the dealer saying they couldn't break the bead loose I was surprised, he said that he didn't know what type of bead locking sealant was used to mount them but it was starting to tear the bead out of the tire when they tried to break it loose. I went down and picked it up and was kind of mad at the damage they had done but thought the tire was still salvageable if I could get the bead loose without further damage. Their technique was to use a tire sledge and hammer the sidewall to pop the bead. I figured if I did a slow and gradual pressure on a wider area right near the rim I could get it to come loose. So I made a shoe to match the wheel diameter and rigged my vehicle lift to do the job. Once I had it loose I let the tire guys finish the dismount and then I took the rim and welded 1/16" x 4" flat bar over the center area that had rusted enough to cause the tube to puncture on the rust scale. At that point I decided that the old tire was too shot to survive a remount so I went ahead and paid them for a new one and had them mound it.
> 
> View attachment 83337
> View attachment 83338
> ...


So this big time Dealer didn't have anybody around with enough experience to use a small handheld propane torch to slowly warm the rim up and soften the bead sealer in several spots and then use the bead breaker? Pretty common scenario when bead sealer has been used on a tire and it only takes about 5 minutes.....


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## linquistmarc (5 mo ago)

They may have used one, but the rim’s paint didn’t look like it had any type of open flame put to it. The old sealant looked like black tar, but was a hell of a lot harder, like epoxy hard. I used a 10” grinder with a wire wheel on it to get the stuff off. I can’t wait for the other tire to go flat so I can do it all over again.


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