# Help...looking for a tractor



## Jakester (Oct 18, 2006)

I guess I am a city slicker who has never had a need to sit on a tractor before now. I recently bought 54 acres, mostly timber, and am needing a tractor to maintain a couple of fields and a gravel road...who know what else can pop up on a farm.

I have no idea where to even start. I know nothing and know nowhere to go. I did come across a Ford model 2000 in the want ads the other day that is suppose to be in good condition and comes with a 5 ft bush hog. The man is asking $4000. But I don't even know enough to ask questions other than, "Is it a good tractor?"

A friend also told me about a new Mahindra he had come across, 4o hp with a front end loader for $16000, but that is really more than I need to spend.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Jakester


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Welcome to Tractor Forum Jakester! There are a lot of variables to consider when buying a new or used tractor. From the info. you posted, it sounds like you may want to do some brush hogging and box blading on your road. Do you think you will want a front end loader (FEL)? A basic 40-60 hp tractor will fill this requirement. 

There are an endless list of brands and models to choose from but in your area the International Harvester 424, 454,464, 484 and similar IH tractors are pretty popular with area farmers. You may also see a few Massey Ferguson 135's and 165's. The Ford 4000 and 5000 were fairly popular models. 

The Ford 2000 you mentioned would be a good choice but it is at the bottom of the hp range and will have its draw backs with the size rotary cutter and box blade you can use. 

What price range are you trying to stay in? I prefer diesel over gas but in most cases gas engine tractors are cheaper.

Your best bet is if you can work it; buy it from the original owner and not from the dealer lot. That way you will be able to get a good idea of how the tractor was cared for by the owner. It is also a good opportunity to purchase the tractor and impliments as a package. 

Just a few things to stay away from such as:

If it need ether to start, pass it up.

More than about 6,000 hours and you will not be far from a major expenses in most cases associated with engine rebuild issues.

Try to stay with tractors that have been stored under cover or in sheds. 

Beware if the tractor is an older model and it is all painted up nice n pretty with new tires. (this could be hiding underlying problems) All tractors refurbished in this manor are not bad but there are some bad apples out there. 

I am sure there are a LOT of other issues and pointers to consider that our members will bring out and help you along with. 

Glad to have you aboard and don't be shy about posting questions.


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## John-in-Ga (Sep 22, 2003)

Hi Jakester, welcome to the Tractorforum.

The 2000 Fords were and still are popular little tractors. A 2000 Ford should handle you bush hogging and road grading chores. Some year models are better than others. You don’t say whether the one you are looking at is gas or diesel. Diesels are usually worth a little more, unless it is one of the earlier 4 cylinder models. Some 2000 models did not come with a live PTOs. One without would be worth considerably less in my book. In fact, if I were in the market for a tractor in the HP and price range you are considering, I would hold out for a live PTO. 

The price you are have been quoted would, I think, be top dollar. The tractor and the bush hog would have to be in top notch shape before I would consider this tractor at that price.

Here is a link to a web page I found useful when I was shopping around for my 3000 Ford. Not only will this site tell you where to look for model and serial numbers, once you found them you can determine how any thousand series Ford is equipped. 

Oak Tree

Have fun looking for a tractor and good luck. Feel free to post any questions you might have. Keep us posted on your progress.


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## Fordfarm (Dec 27, 2005)

The 2000, like has been said is about 28 drawbar, 31 PTO HP. It will, most likely have live PTO and hydraulics. I have a 1949 8N that I mow several acres with, along with other chores. The 2000 is a great little machine. If you NEED more HP, then a good used Ford 3000/4000 or 860/861 will be wonderful. I also have a 1971 IH 454. This series of tractor were made for small operations. The $4000 for the 2000 is a bit on the high side, but will do most anything you ask for your operation. There are a LOT of older machines out there that still have 30 years life left that can be bought for a good price. If you GOTTA go new, the Mahindra has a long history of being a well built machine.


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## Jakester (Oct 18, 2006)

Wow! You guys have some great advice. Thank you so much. I've emailed the seller regarding the year and he has not yet gotten back with me on that. He did say that he had installed a 12volt electrical system. It is a gas tractor. He said something about pull braking, but I don't know what that is. John mentioned a live pto. What is that?

Sounds like the 4g for the 2000 is a little high unless it is like new. My wife had a friend who died in a tractor accident. She seems pretty set on my tractor having some safety devices. What year did they start using things like roll bars and seatbelts?

What is the best way to go about finding used tractors for sell by individuals? Run a want ad in the paper? Is there some sort of agricultural extension that might keep up with something like that.

Sorry for the questions, but I'm just really green when it comes to this stuff. Thanks again


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Jakester, the best advice I can give is to keep an eye out in the classifieds in your local paper, traderonline.com, and try to keep an eye out for local auctions. Another place you can find things for sale is on the bulletin board in your local Farm Servic Agency office. You and I both live near the Nashville area and the Deals On Wheels magazine comes out weekly. Other websites such as Fastline, Tractor House, and Iron Search are good for getting an idea as to what is out there but the prices are a good bit higher when buying used from a dealer. 

You wife is VERY correct and looking out for you. Seatbelts and a ROPS (roll over protections system) are a must at least for me. These features were not offered as standard until the late 80, and early 90's. There are retro fit kits out there and in some cases such as with Kubota, they will offer discount certificates for them. I used one of the Kubota certificates when I installed a seatbelt/ROPS kit on an L245 I had back a few year ago. 

Bare in mind that if you want a new tractor that came equiped with a ROPS and seatbelts in the hp range you specify; this will definitely put you well above the $4,000 price range you are in now. 

If you think you might want to consider a new tractor that is a good solid basic and bullet proof design at a very reasonable price; take a look at the John Deere 5103 and 990.


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## Jakester (Oct 18, 2006)

Cheif thanks for the insights on where to look. I didn't even think about the wheels on deals.

My wife is glad to know that someone who knows something agrees with her. I was googling the Deeres to read something about the ones you recommended and actually came across a 990 in Brentwood on ebay.

a 2002 model John Deere 990 2wd tractor with 1670hrs. This tractor is 40hp engine and 35hp pto 4cyl with 540pto ROPS 60% rubber 28" 3pt hitch (no drawbar) 

I'm willing to go above $4000 for the right machine. In don't know that I can pay $20000 for a new Deere.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Jakester _
> *I'm willing to go above $4000 for the right machine. In don't know that I can pay $20000 for a new Deere. *


The John Deere 990 and 5103 sell for well under $20,000 new.

990 

5103 

I was thinking more along the line of finding a reasonable hour used model of one of the above.


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## John-in-Ga (Sep 22, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Jakester _
> *……… He said something about pull braking, but I don't know what that is. John mentioned a live pto. What is that?………………………….*


I’m not sure what “pull braking” means either. Wild guess - one of two things: English style parking brake or differential lock. 

Maybe, I’ll have better luck explaining the PTO question.

You will find three types of PTOs when looking at tractors from somewhere short of the stone age to the present day. Lets see if I can explain them without having to be corrected too much. 

Early PTOs
Older tractors have a PTO controlled by the same clutch as the transmission. They are driven by a gear in the transmission, which means when the PTO is turning the rear wheels are turning. To engage and disengage these PTOs, the tractor has to be stopped. One of these will need an Over Run Clutch (ORC) when bush hogging . We’ll tell you more about ORCs, if the tractor you choose needs one. This type PTO is found on 8n Fords and most all tractors of that era. 

Live PTOs
A live PTO has a clutch dedicated to the PTO. Pressing down part way on the clutch petal disengages the transmission from the engine and allows the gears in the transmission to be shifted without effecting the PTO. Pressing the clutch petal all the way down disengages the PTO from the engine. The tractor will need to be stopped in order to shift the PTO in and out of gear. Most all 2000 Fords will have this type PTO.

Independent PTOs
Modern day tractors have independent PTOs. Which means they not only have a clutch dedicated to the PTO but you can engage and disengage the PTO at any time, even with the tractor in motion. There is no shifting these PTOs in and out of gear.


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## Jakester (Oct 18, 2006)

Thanks John for the PTO lesson. I had no idea....

Here is a response to my email asking the seller for the year, use, and maintenance of the tractor:

"I purchased the Ford 2000 tractor about 20 or 25 years ago after I sold an 8N Ford that I owned. I have three sons living beside me and they used my other tractor (A 691 Ford that we inhereted) for breaking garden and other chores. Each time I wanted to mow my yard, that tractor (the601) had some other equipment attached to it. I wanted a tractor on which to attach my trim mower and one that was ready to go on a moment's notice.
I have had to replace one of the rear tires and the other one has a few cracks in it but should last a few years longer. When the 6 volt system battery got weak and when I tried to boost start the tractor, I had difficulty starting it. I did not know that the 6 volt system used a postive ground and when I tried to boost start it, I was truning the engine the wrong way. Had I have known this, I would have left the 6 volt system on the tractor.
I'm glad I did, because the tractor will start summer or winter.
Ite uses a regular Ford oil filter and I change oil once a year. I have not had to add any oil.
I have used the mower [email protected] of the time to mow my yard. I have a 5 ft. CARONI trim mower that was made in Italy. It is the best trim mowerI have ever seen. My boys and I own three of these mowers. The first we bought about 25 years ago and it still works.
The reason I am selling the 2000 Ford is because another son of mine who lives in Selmer (Richard) wanted us to have a John Deere tractor he owned. 
He was purchasing two new Kabota's because of a gas line contract he had just secured.
The paint is good on the 2000, the lift works fine, the radiator holds antifreeze and the brakes are good."

Obviously how much money you have makes a difference, but how do you go about making the decision on whether to buy what you can afford or paying the extra and getting a newer Deere 5103...if you can find one.

Thanks again for you help. I feel like I'm back in school, except I'm enjoying learning this stuff.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I threw the 5103 and 990 out there just as an alternative. Personally I would not be in a big hurry to make a purchase and do some looking around at used tractors in your local area. You never can tell what you will come across. Usually you will come across a near ideal tractor when you least expect it. The Ford 2000 is not a bad tractor at all but the one you are looking at does sound a bit on the high priced side. My preference would be for a diesel and stay away from a gas tractor.


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## John-in-Ga (Sep 22, 2003)

Jakester,

Since you say you are learning, don’t take too serious what the seller said about this: I quote, “I did not know that the 6 volt system used a postive ground and when I tried to boost start it, I was truning the engine the wrong way.” end quote. Starters don’t care positive or negative ground, 6 or 12 volts they will turn the engine in the same direction.


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