# ford 4000 CAV metering valve spring position



## tim. dixon (Jun 16, 2020)

I dismantled and rebuilt my injector pump, but am having difficulty getting pressure at the distributor head. I've just got it on the bench again to check assembly but one thing (amongst others) that is now worrying me is the position of the spring for the metering valve. I lost the position when I was dismantling the pump originally, and when reassembled for some reason I've forgotten (this was last year) I reset it using the code 8, middle position on the lever and bottom position on the actuator, but it just doesn't look right. I don't have the setting code, the only numbers on the plate are 3233F390 and 22323 7R, the number inside the pump lid is 7139-890 CC18, can anyone help?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

2 & 2..spring code 5..
Good luck.. I sure hope u have better luck at it than most of the folks that take on a "re-seal"..


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## tim. dixon (Jun 16, 2020)

thepumpguysc said:


> 2 & 2..spring code 5..
> Good luck.. I sure hope u have better luck at it than most of the folks that take on a "re-seal"..


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## tim. dixon (Jun 16, 2020)

No, I haven't had more luck than most people....I put the pump back on and can get diesel to the injectors but it won't start. The tractor used to start easily then gradually became increasingly difficult to start. I changed the inector nozzles to no avail, stripped the head off and found nothing, so I bought a refurb kit for the pump and have not had any success since. The engine fires up on easystart but the pump doesn't seem to be producing enough pressure to fire the injectors. Could it be the cam ring is too worn? The inside of the pump was clean and there was no sign of worn metal.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Lol.. WHY did u take it apart in the 1st place.?? leaks, low power, wouldnt start.?
If it started good before u monkeyed w/ it, I'd say its something u did..
R u starting it w/ the throttle wide open.?? & the shut off in the run position.??
What parts did u replace.?? U didnt take the gov. arm apart did u.?? {2 tiny nuts}
The end plate screws have to be torqued..35-40 inlbs.
I just reread your post.. U said u replaced the nozzles.?? Do u actually mean the nozzles/tips.?? If Yes, what did u set the pressure to & how.?? How do u know they were the correct tips.?? What did u torque the bottom/nozzle NUT to..
IF U mean u replaced the injectors, theres a dam good chance u got the wrong ones..& they're set to the wrong pressure..
EVERY SINGLE CUSTOMER who has EVER sent me their old & "NEW" injectors
have ended up w the wrong ones.. & the pressure is set AT LEAST 1000 psi to hi..


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

IF your in the States.. I'd gladly have a look at it for ya..


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## tim. dixon (Jun 16, 2020)

Not in the States or I'd gladly let you....I bought the nozzles from a tractor specialist in the UK who said they were correct for the model, I took the pump pretty much apart, replaced seals and rollers and roller shoes, transfer pump rotor, blades and liner, filter and regulator plug. Like I say the tractor had become gradually more difficult to start until it would no longer start. I took the head off to check the top end and all seemed ok, compression seems ok so I assumed a problem with the pump or the injectors. I didn't check nozzle pressure but I'm fairly convinced the problem is the pump not producing enough pressure. I did take the regulator arm off. I found workshop manuals for the pump online and followed instructions for rebuild.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Did the #’s match on the nozzles.. old & new.??
U replaced the shoes & rollers, why.? If they had pitting n flat spots, then the cam ring is probably bad too.??
THAT would make it harder n harder to start if the lobes on the cam ring were getting smashed flat..
& u followed the instructions to set the link length.?? A metric caliper between the mv n the stud.?? WHERE DID U GET THE SPEC.??
This stuff isn’t as easy as people think it is..
U have to have access to all sorts of specs..& special tools..
To bad your not closer.. good luck..


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## tim. dixon (Jun 16, 2020)

That's what I suspect, and you're (obviously) right, If I were to repeat the exercise I would have done a lot more research before attempting the refurb of the pump. I wanted to measure the link length, but the manual told you how to measure it but failed to mention the correct measurement and I couldn't find it on the web, I had not disturbed the original setting so left it as it was. I consider myself a competent mechanic and am an Engineer by profession, but if anyone reads this thread I would advise they seek the aid of someone who knows about these pumps before attempting to 'have a go'. I replaced the shoes and rollers basically because they came along with the refurb kit. Lesson learnt, you need the experience and apprenticeship. Good night from mild and cloudy Lincolnshire., not raining but as we say in England if you don't like the weather, wait a minute.....


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