# Bolens 1556 starts and quits



## Rickalony (Mar 30, 2011)

This tractor ran and then quit running. I found one of the trigger pins was bent over after striking the ignition module mounted above the flywheel. I replaced both trigger pins and the module, and set the gap at .008. All through this process it would start if I full choked it and then opened the choke fully. But would only run a few seconds. Also replaced the carb. The insulation on the stator is flaking off, does the stator affect ignition? The engine is 15 horse Tecumseh


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Rickalony said:


> This tractor ran and then quit running. I found one of the trigger pins was bent over after striking the ignition module mounted above the flywheel. I replaced both trigger pins and the module, and set the gap at .008. All through this process it would start if I full choked it and then opened the choke fully. But would only run a few seconds. Also replaced the carb. The insulation on the stator is flaking off, does the stator affect ignition? The engine is 15 horse Tecumseh


 Try opening the gap to .010 Welcome to the Forum!..


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## Rickalony (Mar 30, 2011)

I opened the gap to.010 and still no change. does the extra coil on the stator affect ignition? I've unplugged the stator harness and it doesn't change


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## Jason4567 (Jul 16, 2010)

Maybe you sheared the flywheel key when the pin hit the mag.

Jason


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Stator should only control lights and charging - does the motor have points? They could be going bad.


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## Mickey (Aug 14, 2010)

Been a long time since I had a Tecumseh engine in an old Bolens so memory isn't too fresh.

The trigger pins are not both set at same height. The pin that comes under the ign module first has a much larger gap than the second one. The reason behind the 2 pins is to offer a simple form of ign timing advance. At lower speeds the first pin doesn't create enough energy to trigger the ign but the second, higher pin does. As engine speed reaches a certain point the speed is great enough to for the first pin to trigger the ign, thus advancing the timing.

Don't recall the gap specs.

The ign module is self powered and if I recall correctly there is only one wire connected to the module that is a ground wire that goes to the ign switch. The switch in the off position completes the ground connection for the ign module.

As Jason mentioned, I'd not overlook the possibility of a sheared flywheel key.

Have you checked the fuel pump to insure fuel is reaching the carb?


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## Rickalony (Mar 30, 2011)

the fly wheel key is good. There are no points. Under the flywheel is the stator and a magnet ring attached to the flywheel. The combination ignition module/coil mounts above the flywheel with 2 exciter pins on the flywheel passing by. I've replaced the pins and set the air gap twice..from .008 to .010. the single wire from the stator to the module is suppose to be the kill wire.


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## Mickey (Aug 14, 2010)

The ign system is *self contained*. The wiring under the flywheel is the alt for running the lights, charging the battery, etc.

You will not get the engine to start with both trigger pins set the same and close to the pickup on the ign module. The timing will be too far advanced.

Is there any chance the wire coming from the module EVER had battery voltage applied to it, even for a brief moment? If so, that blew out a rectifier inside the module.

For most that mean a replacement module is needed. I blew out a module this way many a yr ago but was able to repair. At the time I had access to x-ray machine so I took a pic so I could see inside. Saw the place where the likely failed rect was located (grounded to module case) and carefully dug out the potting compound to expose the rect. Replaced it and re-potted, good as new.

There may be other reasons that has caused the module to fail.


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