# Cub Cadet 7264 Diesel Starting Problem



## Tom Whitman WHITMAN (Apr 13, 2020)

Click? Click! Machine would not crank. Noticed late last year it would click a couple times before finally starting. Then this year to add to that, I had to jump box start a few times. Ran over-night 2 amp charge. Starter would not extend into the fly wheel. Sprayed elephant snot on fly wheel and starter gear and shaft. No help. Checked and cleaned all grounds. Checked and load banked battery, them substituted another battery (Case 26R). No luck. Tapped starter (nope), took starter apart and dissembled solenoid. Burnished contacts, serviced, greased gears, checked connections (nope). Swapped out ignition switch...same results. I'm running out of options here. Made up a 6" jumper with two spade connectors and put one end into solenoid connector and with the other end I made contact with the 12V battery/alternator connection on starter body. Va-room! Started right up. Then a light brightened in the middle of my brown-out! I Removed starter switch, accessed the started switch plug and with digital VOM, I ohm'd between orange pin at the switch end of plug connection (found color code in Cub electrical schematic) and the solenoid end of the same disconnected wire at the solenoid connection. Read about 2.65 ohms. Seemed a little high to me on a straight wire run. So I parted the insulation and ran a loosely wrapped wire and bridged the wire in question (paralleled) with a piece of #10 twisted copper from about 2" from the switch connector plug (fed behind the firewall) to about 2" from the end of same orange wire that connects to the solenoid. Took about a 3' chunk of wire. Reconnected plug to starter switch. Put key in 'on' position, then started. Cranked up fine. Time for a more permanent connection. I cut away just enough insulation to make a solder connection on both ends. Made the connections and electrical taped up. So far so good. When you run your new wire, be sure to check for pinch points and wear spots like steering and brake rods/shafts, or brake plungers. Then made a couple of calls to mower mechanics. Seems that on some machines, especially older ones (Mine a 2003), the ignition wires may build up resistance with age. Once that happens, it takes more current to crank through control wires. That's why every so often a jumper box made it crank okay. It's always good to check and clean all grounds, and check and clean battery terminals annually. Good luck.


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## cramerpp (Apr 23, 2021)

Thank you for sharing this. I have a 2003 7304 and have been having the same problem, pulling my hair out. Put a new battery in, will be mowing for 3-hours, and go to restart and just "click". Will try to jump start it, and click, click, click. Thank you for taking the time to share what you found. I'm going to try installing a jumper and see if it solves my problem too.


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