# Is my pressure plate bad?



## StupidDog (Jan 1, 2008)

I have an F18D. Clutch works fine for about 20 or 30 minutes then I guess as it warms up the clutch no longer engages. The peddle doesn't pop back up. If I turn it off and let it set for 30 minutes or so I can hit the clutch peddle and it pops up and the clutch engages. Does this sound like a weak pressure plate? How hard is it to do a clutch job on one of these?

Thanks
Chuck


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## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

> _Originally posted by StupidDog _
> *I have an F18D. Clutch works fine for about 20 or 30 minutes then I guess as it warms up the clutch no longer engages. The peddle doesn't pop back up. If I turn it off and let it set for 30 minutes or so I can hit the clutch peddle and it pops up and the clutch engages. Does this sound like a weak pressure plate?......
> 
> Thanks
> Chuck *


Hey Chuck,..........Probably not.

Before someone convinces you that the tractor needs to be split and you order parts for a complete clutch disk, pilot bearing and pressure plate replacement, you might consider a problem that happens fairly often with the Yanmar.

This procedure involves some labor but is way less complicated than a full tractor split: Remove the pitman arm from your steering box and remove the four bolts holding your steering box to the floor. Slide the entire steering box , column and wheel up about 10"-12" and with a flashlight, examine the two springs attached to the pilot bearing carrier. Look for 1)- a broken spring, 2)- a weak spring, or spring that has fallen off of the carrier or anchor point or, 3)- a broken spring anchor located at the inside of the transmission case.

All of the above are a simple fix (once you get to the area):

A broken anchor point can be drilled from the outside of the case, replaced with a 1/4" X 20 (grade 5), lock washer, nut and stop nut, then replace the spring. The original billet anchor is easily identifiable from the outside of the case...and can be center punched and drilled with a 1/4" bit.
A weak or broken spring can be easily acquired from a gray market supplier. Re-grease the shaft liberally but away from the friction surfaces of your clutch assembly (the shaft only) and reassemble.

If a spring is defective it WILL pull the carrier unevenly creating a bind on your input shaft. Especially once the tractor has come up to temperature and with the absence of lubrication (grease) on the shafts carrier bearing holder….this is what creates the “Feel” of a worn disk or weak pressure plate. Better than half the time with a tractor that has low hours (<1000 hours) I have repaired/replaced the return springs or spring anchors and saved myself many unnecessary labor hours plus parts.


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## StupidDog (Jan 1, 2008)

Thanks Mark. That sounds more like it. I'll give that a try. You are a life saver.


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## StupidDog (Jan 1, 2008)

*Question for Mark777*

Let me see if I've got this straight. I unbolt and Slide the entire steering box , column and wheel up about 10"-12" and this gives me access to the pilot bearing carrier and shaft inside the bell housing?.

I did not mention the the F18D is 4x4 I don't know if that makes a difference or not.

Thanks again
Chuck


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## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

Yes....

No....


Yes, slide that baby right up and out of the way.

No, the transmission is the same for 2WD and 4WD other than the driveline gear pack.


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## StupidDog (Jan 1, 2008)

Okay then, I just wanted to follow up with the results of this exercise.
Got in there just as described and pulled out the 2 carrier return springs. They seemed to be in quite good shape and very strong but I went ahead and ordered new ones anyway. Cleaned and greased the shaft and install the new springs with zero improvement. So what I ended up doing was going to the local home depot and picked up another set of springs that fit inside the return springs which makes them double springs, then I fabricated a bracket that is attached using the steering column bolts and attach one of the old carrier springs from the bracket to the clutch lever itself and viola it now works terrific. No more sticking after warm up. The clutch works like a real clutch as I can ease the clutch out for smooth takeoffs where as before it was either in or out and no in between.

So in other words I guess it has been Jerry rigged. For me that was better than splitting the tractor apart and it only cost about 8 bucks.

Thanks for the help Mark


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## mark777 (Jul 23, 2004)

Sorry, 

I missed your follow up. 

Hey, whatever works ! 

When it's time (a few years from now) to do a full clutch job, I would replace the pressure plate .

Mark


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