# LT1000 crank no start



## mycraftsmen (Apr 30, 2011)

This is my first post. Hopefully it's in the right section. I recently tried to start my Lt1000 16hp kohler after replacing the crank cable. Last fall it ran, started up fine, aside from the cable snapping. I took the old cable out and installed the new one with the simple "put it back where it was" method. 

That seemed to go smoothly. Once I put it on I tried to run the engine. Old gas, no stabilizer fluid... Cranks, no start. I tried cleaning the air filter, no start. 

To try to cut it short, here is a list of what i've done so far:

>replaced crank cable
>cleaned air filter
>replaced fuel lines
>replaced fuel filter
>bypassed battery
>took top end off and spliced wire that some f'n squirrell got at. Wire goes to solenoid looking thing that the spark plug hooks up to also. 
>fresh gas and stabilizer fluid. 
>new spark plug
>played around with the blade engage lever, brake and clutch while trying to start it. Sprayed starting fluid in carb, kicks over for as long as I spray...then dies.

Any help is appreciated!! :dazed:


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## BelarusBulldog (Feb 19, 2011)

So, will start with starting fluid, so you have spark. Check to see that carburetor is getting gas. If so, you may have a needle jet plugged or gummed up. Bye


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## mycraftsmen (Apr 30, 2011)

Okay, rookie time. How do I check to see if the carb is actually getting the gas?


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## BelarusBulldog (Feb 19, 2011)

mycraftsmen said:


> Okay, rookie time. How do I check to see if the carb is actually getting the gas?


 Check your float bowl. If it has a drain screw at the bottom, loosen it until gas runs out. Another way is to shine a light into the opening of the carb while cranking over the engine. You should be able to see a fine mist of gas being sucked into the engine. ( wear safety glasses ) Bye


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Im at a loss at what a crank cable is - youd easily see gas down in the carb when its flowing. The wire you described from the magneto is the ign kill wire- it grounds out the magneto when the ign switch is turned off - its possible the reason it isnt cranking is because of that wire - make sure its all taped up.

I really dont suggest using starter fluid in any motor - if it wont start normally, then something is wrong. Starter fluid is extremely bad for the motor- if anything just pour a lil gas down the carb - it would start that way reguardless of the carb condition.

More then likely the carb will need cleaning - if youve never tried it before- its not that hard . First off, take pics or drawings of the linkages/setup - this is important to put it back together correctly. Take note of where any adjustable meter screws( usually air/fuel metering screws- IF it has them) are set at- this will help when its back on the tractor later.

I use 2 rags on a table/flat surface- one for disassembly and one for reassembly/clean parts - once the carb is off set it on one of the rags and in order disassemble the carb and lay them out in the same order on the rag . 

One by one, thouroughly clean each part, all lil ports and everything with spray carb cleaner/soak bath - one of those thin metal bread ties ( minus the plastic coating) will get the lil ports clean.

If a carb kit needs to be ordered- now is the time to get one- gaskets should be okay if carefully taken off w/o ripping them.

One by one in same order place the clean pieces onto the other rag ( after being cleaned) - once everything is clean, then it can be reassembled and put back on the tractor.


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## mycraftsmen (Apr 30, 2011)

Update:

I took the carb off. Cleaned the entire thing. Took that bowl at the bottom off, it was filled up with what looked like sand? Cleaned it all out. I didnt' see any rubber cone floats or anyting like that aside from directly under the bowl, where it threads in, there is another tiny hole with a tiny rubber topper on it. I took that off and cleaned inside then put it back. 

After all of that I cleaned out the breather tube and reassembled it all. SAME result. Cranks, no start....

Notes:

I didn't see any gas spraying in the carb while cranking. And to answer the question. The crank cable is the cable that connects to the deck to engage the blades. That's what the guy at sears called it anyway.


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## mycraftsmen (Apr 30, 2011)

*engine*

pics of the engine and wire splice to magneto


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Thanks for clearing that up - ive messed with tractors for around 17 years and never herd of that- thought it was the throttle cable.

Okay- yep that was the magneto kill wire - since you also said the gas isnt comming into the carb - i notice it has one of those antifire solenoids on the bottom of the carb- im suspecting that its not working.

The purpose of the antifire solenoid is to stop the flow of gas into the carb when its turned off - a quick check if its working is to remove it and turn the key on ( might have to ground it against metal) - the pin should retract when key is on- if it doesnt then its defective.

A quick and easy fix is to simply take a pair of side cutters and snip the pin off and reinstall it - id also suggest getting a manual fuel shutoff valve placed before the filter ( for easy changing) to make sure gas doesnt leak by when its sitting.

Im not sure how much one of those antifire solenoids are - but im sure theyre not cheep.

My 2003 murray has one- it would diesel when shut off, run rough, spit and sputter, and start extremely hard - once i cut the pin on the solenoid - started right up and ran nice and smooth.

Hopefully that should fix your problem, and best of all not cost a thing.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Those solenoids aren't cheap. Expect $70+ to replace it. You should be able to hear it click when you turn the key to the run position. Do this. Lock the parking brake on. Make sure the deck is shut off. Kneel down by the tractor on the carburetor side and turn the ignition key to the run position (not start, just run). Listen for the solenoid to make a sharp click sound. You can also put your hand on it to feel it engage. If it doesn't its probably shot. Its on there for safety so unburned fuel won't get sucked into the engine when it is coasting down to a stop, and from there into the hot muffler. I've seen mufflers blown in half from the unburned fuel igniting after a shutdown. I'd not recommend just cutting the pin off, but it will work in a pinch. Its best to replace it for the long run if it is bad. You can also test it by jumpering the red wire coming off of it to the positive terminal on the battery (a length of insulated wire should do the trick). If it clicks then but not with the key, then you have a wiring issue. If it still doesn't click, then its probably shot or is simply stuck closed. I had a machine exactly like yours come into the shop two years ago. The carb was filled with a white jello like substance. I flushed the carb out, but the solenoid wasn't working. I took it over to the parts cleaner and held it under the nozzle while forcing the pin in and out. After a minute of that, I dried it with the air compressor and tested it and it worked. I've also seen those solenoids overheat, melt, and stick shut, but that's pretty damned rare.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Really? I have motors 25 plus years old and never had a muffler blow apart on me , then again i close the manual valve i put on and let the gas empty from the carb with it idling.

Could be from manufacturers pre setting the fuel mix so rich - but the only time it would engage is when the key is turned off .


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

What happens is that as the engine coasts to a stop, the carb keeps mixing fuel and air, and because it doesn't get burned in the cylinder (spark plug is off) it just gets pushed into the muffler. The muffler is hot enough to ignite the mixture, and it explodes. That's why they started putting the solenoid on the carb, along with trying to prevent dieseling. If you are shutting the fuel off and letting it run empty, then you will not experience either situation. Not a bad idea though. I wish more people would drain their carbs or let them run dry. Would save me a hell of a lot of work cleaning them all the time.


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## mycraftsmen (Apr 30, 2011)

Okay, first off, thanks for all the advice so far. I located what I believe is the anti fire solenoid under the carb. Is it that red and black wire attached to a nut that secures the carb bowl? If it is, when I turn the key to on I and put my hand on it, I feel a click there.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

If its clicking, its probably working, though it may not be opening all the way. I'd bet you still have a plugged port in the carb somewhere and that's not allowing fuel into the air stream. I usually disassemble the carbs at work and soak them in a carb cleaner bath I have there for several hours. That seems to soften and dissolve the varnish and dirt that plugs the carbs. If you don't have this, then a local shop may be able to soak the carb for you.

If you want to be sure that the solenoid is working, you can remove it from the carb (I'd pinch the fuel line off so your tank doesn't drain) and test it out of the carb. The pin sticking out of it should retract as far as it can go when you turn the key on. If the coil inside is bad it may not be going all the way in, but if its clicking, it should be fine. The click you hear is the pin bottoming out on the back side of the solenoid case. Carbs can be a pain in the butt to clean if they have varnished. I have a Tecumseh engine at work that I just got done rebuilding the carb on, and it still won't start right. If you get it going, it will run, but you have to pull your butt off to get it to start. I'll have to pull the carb off and soak it this time to be sure I got all the dirt (and water) out of it.

This is for anyone working on their own stuff. If you have dirty parts and carburetors to clean, look into getting a pail of parts/carb cleaner to soak the stuff in. It makes short work of grease, varnish, old paint, etc. The product I use is called Hydro Seal II and a one gallon pail costs us about $70. A pail usually lasts us 2-3 years in the shop before it gets diluted and stops working well. It comes with a hanging basket to put the parts in, so you don't lose anything in the bottom of the pail.


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