# New truck (to me), new thread



## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

*New truck (to me), new thread. 95 Silverado Z71*

Recently bought a '95 Chevy Z71 pickup, extended cab, short bed. Needed a starter which I got at a junk yard for $30 a few days after I bought the truck. Bought a new pair of wiper blades for $12 & a replacement driver side mirror face for $8.

Next came 2 trailer hitch ballmounts; one with a 6" drop & a 2" ball, the other with a 5.25" drop. Both were $10.

We were also able to find a FREE plastic bedliner, tailgate protector & a rubber bed mat for free on craigslist.

Looking now for a set of 4 tires...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks to my buddy tractorwrangler, we were able to procure an aluminum diamondplate toolbox & an aluminum diamondplate bed cover for $90! The bed cover was previously on an F-150, so we had to modify it to fit the Chevy. Looks like it belongs there.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

She's gonna need both cab corners, but I can find them on ebay. I have a mig welder & I'm not afraid to use it!

Here she is in action...can't even feel the trailer in tow!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

BTW, she's an Arkansas truck with the only real rust attacking the cab corners. New dual exhaust. The gray interior is almost perfect.

I paid $1500 for this truck, then sold the rusty '95 Sonoma (with the utility bed) for $1200...effectively making this a $300 truck!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Looking for a set of 4 tires...LT285/75r16.

Anybody got a decent set for sale?


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Nicely done TB! White to boot....Wooooo!!!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I was hoping for blue, black, or green. The timing indicated otherwise. The price was right at $1500. The frame was rotted through on the Sonoma, so it had to go.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Not a bad rig there TecumsehBriggs. Great find!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thank you. I'm on the lookout for a set of sidesteps, maybe a brushguard, a pair of cab corners & a set of tires. Clearance lights for the cab are on the list, too...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

A buddy of mine donated his used tires. He gave me nine of them, all the same size (265/75r16), making the selection easier. A couple tires were toast, a couple were iffy. Luckily, 4 were WAY better than the ones on my truck. I feel a little safer driving the truck now.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

If you need used tires, check your local junkyards. We have one in the area that sells a pair of used tires for $50 or so. They pull them off all the incoming cars, so sometimes you get a nearly new set for dirt cheap. The fronts and rears may not match, but at least they would be decent tires.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I checked a couple junk yards & found some wheel/tire combinations for $30 each. Didn't have the money, so I went with the freebies.

I picked up a set of 4 like-new Goodyear SRA, 305/60/20 tires for free through craigslist. Had them up for sale or trade for about 2 months, hoping to get a like-new set for my truck in return. Sold them Sunday for $800!


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> I checked a couple junk yards & found some wheel/tire combinations for $30 each. Didn't have the money, so I went with the freebies.
> 
> I picked up a set of 4 like-new Goodyear SRA, 305/60/20 tires for free through craigslist. Had them up for sale or trade for about 2 months, hoping to get a like-new set for my truck in return. Sold them Sunday for $800!


Tire prices are going nutz!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

When new, these tires were $1,400...before mounting & balancing. Somebody got a like-new set of tires. I got $800, but that all went to bills. I was hoping to trade even up, but the cash came first.

I would have used these tires on my truck, but couldn't find a free or cheap set of 20" rims. PLUS...I'd have to do a suspension lift. I'm pretty sure the biggest tires I can use on my truck without a lift are 285/75 R16.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Had a full load on Saturday...8 heavy duty wood cabinets, 12 commercial light fixtures, a couple gas cans, a wheelbarrow & a sign that says,"You Are Now In Bedford Falls". All free. Most of this went to tractorwrangler's garage.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got a pair of cab corner patch panels for Christmas, as well as the rear side window latch parts that were broken before I owned the truck. Will have to wait for spring to install the panels, since there will be considerable cutting & welding. I will also need to lift the bed up so I can get to the rear of the cab. That will take a couple days to complete. Luckily last year I bought a new argon tank & some new parts for the mig welder. I'm ready.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Isn't it nice when a plan falls into place?


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

A little at a time...


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> A little at a time...


 I've had the cheater pieces for GMC for about 4 years now. Something always gets in the way.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

So far, the truck has been starting in the recent sub-zero weather we're experiencing in the midwest. Spent about 2 hours clearing over a foot of snow from vehicles & driveway/walkways. Bought a bunch of supplies just before the storm hit. Don't need to leave the house for awhile...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Started working on the rusty cab corners. Got them both cut off. Removed the rust underneath. Have to fab a couple panels, but I have enough material that got cut off the patch panels. Still have to raise the bed so I can gain access to the rear of the cab. A little at a time...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Some rust issues...and a panel fabbed in place prior to welding.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Here's the passenger side. I thought it would be easier. It was, only because there was slightly less rust than the driver side.


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

Make sure you leave some drain holes in the bottom. I usually cut a small slot sideways and bend the leading edge down a little so water from the front tires can't splash in.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Looking good TB!  After working on my trailer, I can appreciate the issues of rust mitigation and metal replacement.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I really wish I had a garage to work in. The temperature dropped to the mid-30s at night & mid-40s by day. My joints can't take the cold anymore. Still got alot of stuff to do before the snow falls.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Had to fabricate a small panel that goes on the corner of the driver side cab. It's what the outer cab corner panel spot welds to. Not too hard. Luckily the passenger side piece was still intact, so I traced the outline on a piece of sheet metal that was once a fender on my 4x8 trailer. Cut it out & bent it the opposite as the sample piece. Cut, shape, grind, bend, etc.

Then, I took the piece that I cut off the cab corner patch panel & made an inner panel out of it by flattening out the body line, cutting off a flange & bending it into a slight curve.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

To gain access to the rear of the cab corners, I had to raise the bed. Did that last night. I'll probably sandblast the frame & paint it before I put the bed back on. Had to remove the back seat & side panels, just in case of a fire starting from the welding. Safety first, ya know.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

I like the bumper sticker !!!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Did this Saturday...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Don't forget the body filler...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Sunday, I got the passenger side inner panel fabricated & welded in except for along the bottom. Got the cab corner patch panel trimmed & tweaked to fit just right. Then, I ran out of gas for the mig welder. 

Sanded the body filler on the driver side & worked the panel. Applied another light coat of filler. Set up a tent using a tarp & a sheet of plywood to keep in the heat from a halogen lamp so the filler sets. 

Today I have to get a tank of gas for the welder, finish welding the inner panel, prime it, weld on the outer panel, apply body filler & hopefully sand the driver side & prime it. Maybe paint, we'll see. Gonna be another long day!


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Looks good TB!

On a side note, I have those exact same car ramps in my shop. Dad got them years and years ago. Keep up the good work!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got The passenger side panel welded on, another coat of filler on both panels, sanded & primed. Today I conceded to the weather & put the bed back on. Gotta wait til warmer days...


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

At least it's gettin' done,TB ! 
Looks to be a real nice truck ! Once we get settled in,I plan on starting on "Annabelle",my 1985 Chevy pickup. New engine,and body-off restore.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

That's funny. I have a '65 Chevy pickup I plan to restore eventually. Her name is "Maybelle".


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

While on a "used parts expedition" at a local junkyard, I came across a *replacement drink holder* for my truck. My original is missing the swing-out coin holder/mini drink holder. I found one from a Suburban that was intact, so I grabbed it. Cost about $6 plus some change. It's tan instead of gray, but I can paint it later or change the front piece. Looks like it's riveted on at the top toward the front & on the bottom it looks like there were two plastic posts that were melted to form rivets. What a way to manufacture something. Anyhoo, after a quick youtube video on removal/installation, I installed it. Works like it should.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

My son & I washed the truck the other day. A couple buckets of hot water & a scrub brush got rid of most of the salt spray.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ordered 4 new tie rods & all 4 shocks last week. Today I found a set of new BF Goodrich tires for $500. Lots of new parts, all I need is warm weather.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got my new tires mounted & balanced today at Walmart. Cost me $16 per tire which included new high pressure tire valves & lifetime balancing & rotation.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Shocks arrived today from Rock Auto. 4 shocks in a box large enough to hold 3 windshields.


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

I order from Rock, but you gotta watch when ordering several things. If they ship from different places, you get separate shipping fees.
They are NOT created equal!
One order I almost placed ate the 'discount' in shipping. I cancelled and bought local.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Trust me, I shopped around for about a week before committing to buy. All 4 Monroe shocks, tie rods are Moog. Cheaper with shipping from Rock Auto than to buy locally.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Swept out the bed, oiled up the toolbox hinges & locks. Still a long list of things to do...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Installed an led strip light on the bed between the tailgate & bumper. Soldered it directly into the loom instead of plugging it into the trailer plug. This way it still works when I tow a trailer.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Front brakes started grinding after a 6 hour drive to retrieve a cheap lawn tractor. Replaced both front rotors, both sets of pads, cleaned up the calipers & replaced the seals & slider pins & bolts. Lubed everything up. Put the wheels back on & a brake line broke. Priced out brake lines & concluded that copper nickel lines were the way to go. Bought a 25ft roll on Amazon. Crimped the rear brake line (temporarily) so I could at least drive it home & locally as necessary. Gonna replace all brake lines as soon as the parts come in & flush the system.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

By then, the rear brakes will need replacing.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Checked on the shipping status of my brake line from a seller on Amazon. Credit card not charged & order is on hold. I sent the seller a message . If I don"t hear anything by tomorrow afternoon, I'm cancelling the order. It's been 2 weeks already. I can't wait that long for brakes!


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Hmmm...something smells little fishy,enough so I would have cancel.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Cancelled the order today. Sent the seller a message to cancel, sent Amazon an email & I called Amazon directly to cancel. I'll place an order on ebay in the morning.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ordered the same 25ft copper nickel brake line on ebay. Arrived 3 days later. Just a couple days ago, I got an email from Amazon stating the seller cancelled my order due to vendor issues. Excuse me, I cancelled the order! That's it, no more Amazon.


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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

Excellent job. That is a nice clean truck. Keep up the good work.
1995 was the year of the brand new and nicest interior to date. The new dash redesign was due to air bags. It was also the last year of TBI.
LMC is another place to check for body parts and the like.
Keep the updates coming.


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## poncho62 (Jun 23, 2010)

Nice truck....very similar to my 97 GMC....they are great trucks


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Replaced the brake line from the anti-lock module to the rear junction block with copper. Easy to use, but only if you have a quality flaring tool. I bought one a few years ago & never used it. Pulled it out of the package yesterday & it was a cheap piece of crap. Made by Performance Tool. Lifetime warranty...IF you had the foresight to keep the original sales receipt. Rented one from Advance Auto Parts; it was worse than the one I had. The second one in their inventory was just as bad. Went to O'Reilly Auto Parts & rented a brand new one. Much better.

After the brake line, I replaced both rear shocks with overload shocks. Extra coil spring gives my truck an extra 1" of lift in the rear. The old shocks were toast; rusted through, leaking. One was not even a shock anymore. Hit a bump, you got seasick. Now she rides like a dream. 

Next project: front shocks, all 4 tie rods, alignment, tire rotation & repair driver's side door latch.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Poncho, my buddy has a '97 Chevy 4x4, short bed, standard cab with 305 & 5-speed. He specifically hunted down that model & paid $2k for it. He redid all 4 brakes & is in the process of changing the stock rims & worn tires to 15" GM truck rally wheels & oversize all-terrain tires.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks WJ. Just got a new LMC catalog yesterday. Got a good deal on this truck, considering I sold my old truck for almost as much.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Tried to engage the transfer case to shift into 4x4. No dice. Gotta check the axle actuator or replace it. Luckily, it's an easy operation.


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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Tried to engage the transfer case to shift into 4x4. No dice. Gotta check the axle actuator or replace it. Luckily, it's an easy operation.


The original actuator was a heat activated one, they went to a electric vacuum activated one which was much improved.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Why didn't you just get some line in bulk coil,from one of the auto parts stores ??
Hopefully the line is steel,and not copper. Copper line cracks easily,and also blows out under pressure.
Try finding an Old Forge flaring set. Mine has lasted 26 years.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The brake line is copper nickel, not just copper. Steel lines rust. Auto parts stores were double what I paid online. Screw them. I'll look into the Old Forge set, John. Thanks for the heads up.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Removed the deteriorating dry erase sheet from the tailgate the other day. I use it for political messages & whatnot. Cleaned the glue residue from duct tape & reinstalled the tailgate on the truck. Probably going to install the new one tomorrow. Got a few things to do on the truck, including finish the body work; redo the rear brakes; clean/repair/replace the 4x4 actuator; replace tie rods; replace spare tire cable; install cab marker lights; replace cracked windshield;sandblast & paint frame & tow hitch. I'm sure there's more...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got the new dry erase sheet installed & a new message. Cleaned & repaired the driver side door latch, installed a new door handle assembly & replaced all door panel clips.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Changed the oil, oil filter & air filter. Still running like a Swiss watch.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Finishing bodywork on cab corners & rockers, painted some of the frame, painted the rear axle, springs & trailer hitch got the tires rotated & rebalanced.


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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

Awesome. Cant wait to see the finished product!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks. I can't wait, either. Wish it would hurry up & finish itself...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)




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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Looks great! What did you use on the rear end?


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Gloss black Rustoleum after wire brushing & Ospho rust remover. I used a 2" chip brush.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)




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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Cleaned out all unnecessary junk from the interior of my truck, vacuumed everything & shampooed the entire interior. Nice & clean now.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

Looking good.:thumbsup:


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Put a strip of black duct tape to mimic the trim on the ride of the cab corner. Looks good from a distance.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Battery not holding a charge very long. Installed a top post battery I had sitting around using top post to side post adaptors. Stripped them both. Battery hold-down wouldn't fit, so I used a bungee cord. Couldn't live with that, so I bought a used/reconditioned battery for $25 & installed it. Same size, slightly more power. Much better.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought a new muffler on ebay. 3" inlet, dual 2.5" outlet, 2 chamber with ceramic. $37/shipped. Just gotta install it now, along with all 4 tie rods & front shocks. Need to replace the side moldings, which are available aftermarket. Not sure I want to do that before I have the truck painted.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The American flags on the front fenders started peeling off, so I replaced them.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

The valve just went up even more.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thomas said:


> The valve just went up even more.


Yeah, by about $2.50...


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Truck looks good TecumsehBriggs! I was always partial to that body style on those trucks. When I was in grade school, a lady that worked at the daycare attached to the school had a black single cab short bed Z71 of that era. It was an awesome truck!


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Yeah, by about $2.50...


:lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao::lmao:


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

A buddy of mine has several of these trucks. He planned on snowplowing in Chicago during the winter after his retirement from the CPD. Last I heard he had 5 of them, plus a Tahoe, 2 Crown Vic retired police interceptors, a 72 Chevelle & a 57 Bel Air.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Found a new rocker switch I had stashed away in my toolbox awhile back. I can use that for the cab marker lights I planned on installing this summer. Still haven't gotten around to it, or the muffler, front shocks, tie rods, etc, etc, etc.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Went to use the wipers the other day to wipe the morning dew off the windshield. They went up very slowly, then stopped halfway across the windshield. Blew a 25 amp fuse. Unhooked the linkage from the motor, linkage moving freely. Checked the motor, bearings all gummed up. Cleaned up the bearing & end of the armature, then greased lightly with marine grease. Works like a charm now. $0 invested. Got home & smelled antifreeze. Checked under the hood & found the radiator seeping fluid. Bought a new one on ebay for $85. Should be here in a day or 2. I'll do an oil change when I change the radiator. It's way overdue. Muffler soon, too.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

What your doing still heck of lot cheaper than what some are paying on monthly auto loan...yikes.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Definitely. Today I replaced the radiator & lower hose. Hose was still usable, but getting soft & bloated. The upper hose is easy compared to the lower. Best to change it now, while I had the radiator out. Everything went back together as it should, but the lights went out. Completed the operation with the help of a flashlight. All new coolant, 3 quarts of oil. Still need to clean & reinstall the skidplate, then do an oil & filter change after I run it a while.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

My attempt to mislead, uh, I mean inform the population...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

My son helped me change the oil & filter on the truck a few days ago. He was very helpful & asked a lot of questions. I was glad to answer them all. 

Yesterday, my buddy & I installed the new muffler. Had to add a couple adaptors for the tailpipes, since the muffler outlets are 1 1/2" & the tailpipes are 1 1/4". Everything went well & the patient is resting comfortably.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Installed a used wiper motor on the truck today from the junkyard. $25.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Picked up some off-road lights for free. Thinking about making a light bar. Wouldn't rule out a brush guard to mount the lights either.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Had to tack a couple welds on the tailpipes. Right tailpipe loosened up again. Good to go now.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Took the heater blower motor out a few days ago. Had to constantly hit the motor with my snowbrush to get it going. Oiled the bearings & cleaned out the heater core. Works better, but still not 100%.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

TecumBriggs> PM sent.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Pm replied to.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

New front shocks installed. Replaced the stabilizer links while I had the wheels off. Replaced one upper ball joint grease fitting & greased both upper ball joints.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Heater blower motor no longer active. Time for a new one, or at least before winter.


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## z445guy (Mar 10, 2017)

Tecumsehbriggs better get s blower motor resistor too while your at those go too


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Blower motor ordered on ebay. Should be here in a few days.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app


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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

Been a while since I have posted, glad to see progress.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thanks. Going to have to do rocker panels soon. I have the passenger side, need to get the driver's side.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Replacement blower motor arrived Saturday. The old one was already out, so I only had to swap the ground terminal from the old one to the new one, remove a rubber plug & screw it in. I now have a working hvac system.

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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

That's awesome! What's next?


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

4x4 actuator. Gotta check the fuse, wiring & switch itself. Pretty sure it's the actuator. Rocker panels over the winter. Got some cab marker lights I'd like to install.

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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> 4x4 actuator. Gotta check the fuse, wiring & switch itself. Pretty sure it's the actuator. Rocker panels over the winter. Got some cab marker lights I'd like to install.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app





TecumsehBriggs said:


> 4x4 actuator. Gotta check the fuse, wiring & switch itself. Pretty sure it's the actuator. Rocker panels over the winter. Got some cab marker lights I'd like to install.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app


I dont remember when GM did the update, but they ran a heat activated central axle disconnect, during winter would take forever to go in to 4wd, and would disconnect fast when shut off. 

They switched out to a vacuum activated central axle disconnect. So get an OEM unit if it needs replacing.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Checked the fuse & wiring to the 4x4 actuator. Applied power to the actuator, no movement. Bought a new one on ebay for $32 with a 10 year warranty. Installed it today. 4x4 works! Yay!

Changed the oil while I had it in the garage. The oil drain plug gasket was made of neoprene & was smashed & leaking. Made a new gasket from a nylon washer. Had to file down the edges slightly to fit the recess in the drain plug. The drain plug opening had a few burrs from the plug smashing past the gasket & raising a couple spot welds. Filed them down & everything fit flush. Changed the oil filter & filled with oil. No more leaky drain plug.

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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

Great to hear you are moving along.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

On the search for a new/used rear bumper & driver side rocker panel.

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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> On the search for a new/used rear bumper & driver side rocker panel.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app


Did you check LMC Truck? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tractor Forum


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I refuse to pay full price plus shipping. I'm funny that way. I have a passenger side cab corner for an extended cab truck I would like to trade for a driver side rocker. Got it advertised on craigslist. You never know...

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## Tracky (Sep 7, 2017)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> I refuse to pay full price plus shipping. I'm funny that way. I have a passenger side cab corner for an extended cab truck I would like to trade for a driver side rocker. Got it advertised on craigslist. You never know...
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app


Any luck in finding the truck parts you want to trade on Craigslist?


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I keep a close eye on cl. Sell a lot of stuff there. I did pick up a passenger side rocker panel & driver side cab corner for free. Don't need the cab corner, since I replaced both a couple years ago. I have an ad on cl to trade the cab corner for a driver side rocker, or to sell it outright. Haven't had any bites on it yet. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

New front brake pads & rotors on the truck, all covered by warranty. Pads were too tall & cut into the rotors. Wrong part, taking out a good part. At first they wanted to charge me, at a discount, for the rotors which were 3 months past watranty. I insisted it was their fault & they warranteed the rotors too. Cleaned everything up, added anti-sieze on moving parts, all back together. Brake pedal is a bit spongy now, where it wasn't before the brake job. I reinstalled the abs fuse to see if that helps. Gonna drive it a few more days, then possibly bleed the brakes. We'll see.

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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

Have you done a brake fluid flush?


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I flushed the brake fluid when I replaced a brake line last year.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Had a problem with the new battery I just bought last month. Let it sit for 24 hours & no start in the morning. Had the same problem with the previous battery, but didn't turn it in for the core. Filled the cells with water & recharged. Saved for a spare.

Did a bunch of diagnosing & found some amperage draw from the instrument cluster. Took it out to look for obvious signs of "silver migration" from the soldered items on the circuit board. Charged up the battery in the meantime. Researched prices & availability & found a gauge cluster on ebay for $30! Cheapest one on ebay...On its way to me now.

Anyhoo, reinstalled it & suddenly, no draw. The 4 screws that held it in were a little loose when I removed it. The culprit? Perhaps. Checked again & found some draw at the power driver seat. Repositioned the wires so they wouldn't snag the cd changer under the seat. Unplugged the cd changer, draw went away. Plugged it back in, draw was gone. 

In conclusion, my hypothesis is that there were a couple issues that I hopefully addressed. I will install the new cluster when it comes in so I will have a functional trip odometer. Otherwise, I could always sell it to someone else.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

New gauge cluster arrived today. Pretty dirty, so I cleaned it with window cleaner & olive oil on the sticker residue. Probably install it tomorrow.

Before...









After...









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Charged the battery & reinstalled it today after clearing off the snow. Started up the truck & checked for amperage draw. Nothing. Charged up the old battery, which is holding 12.46 volts. When I go somewhere, it will go in the back of the truck in case I need a jump. Then eventually, I will change the gauge cluster & test for amperage draw again. I believe the cluster has an intermittent draw. Keeping an eye on it.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

That's it! I've had enough! Battery dead again after 24 hours. Went over to my buddy's heated garage & swapped out the gauge cluster. Removed the abs light (stays on after I pulled the abs fuse) & installed it in the right turn signal lamp spot, which was burned out. Put the battery charger on for a while, zip tied the electric seat wires that were hanging & rubbing against the cd changer under the seat, checked & added a quart of oil, reinstalled the dashboard bezel & associated parts. The right front turn signal socket fell out of the turn signal assembly, so I removed the assembly, re-epoxied the lower mounting stud on & reinstalled. Everything working as it should, no amperage draw with key off...so far...the saga continues...

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

According to "sources", the battery issue I'm having is due to a bad battery connection. Took the positive battery cables off, peeled back the insulation, used baking soda to clean out the corrosion, rinsed everything down, wire brushed the cable ends, replaced the lead spacer with a new one & replaced the long factory bolt with a brass adaptor bolt.
















The truck starts, runs & charges with the old battery. The new battery is also holding a 12.4 volt charge, after not starting the truck a couple days ago. I think after swapping out the gauge panel, thoroughly cleaning the cable ends & replacing the bolt, I should have a handle on this. After a week, I'll put the new battery back in & recheck. We got some warm weather for a week or so. Once the temps drop, I'll know if the new battery is part of the problem. 

Washed my truck today using 5- 6 gallon buckets of water filled from my tub. Lots of salt spray. Better now.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Battery not holding a charge. When it dropped to 12.1 after showing 12.6 a few days earlier, I took it back. Checked the fluid, looked ok. Did a load test, not ok. The guy at the counter said, "This battery is dead". I said, "No s##t!" They checked another battery in their inventory & I'm back in business. Using my old battery in the meantime. Holding a charge & starting the truck as it should. I'll give it a week & install the new battery. I'll save the current battery as a spare, in case I need a jump. Then, in spring, I'll use it to start my '65 Chevy truck. Gotta start the restoration before she's too far gone.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Old battery still holding a charge & starting the truck in cold temps. New battery still in the back of the truck. No electrical issues as of late. Both rockers rotting away, though. I have the passenger side. Still need the driver side.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Old battery not starting truck on cold mornings. Put the new battery in & she starts right up. Charged up the old battery & in the morning she settled in at 12.2 volts. Not so good.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got ahold of some bad gas. Changed the fuel filter, added some Heet & injector cleaner. Runs ok when it's warm, like crap when it's cold. Need to do a fuel pressure test to check the fuel pump. Ran out most of the gas & added 1/2 tank of fresh gas, a bottle of Heet & another bottle of injector cleaner. We'll see...

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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

What about running some seafoam or the like through the vacuum system? Pop the hose off the master cylinder, let it suck it in through there. Try it right before an oil change.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Yes sir upper electric. Is it a electrc, or old school fuel pump?


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

The reason I ask is electric pumps dont usually die slowly they just quit. So if its electric theres a problem with the screen on the pickup tube in the tank, or a bad ground, etc. Or a pump relay switch.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

It's an electric pump mounted in the tank. Either gotta drop the tank or lift the bed.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

WJBMF35 said:


> What about running some seafoam or the like through the vacuum system? Pop the hose off the master cylinder, let it suck it in through there. Try it right before an oil change.


I'll give that a try when I can afford Seafoam. It's $13 a can around here!

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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

Test the fuel pressure? Could be the pump is on the way out. Dont mess with aftermarket pumps, will burn out in 6 months. Go AC delco.


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## WJBMF35 (Nov 29, 2003)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> I'll give that a try when I can afford Seafoam. It's $13 a can around here!
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app


Check your local auto parts store, there are specific brands for that, cant remember the names.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

My buddy bought a fuel pressure test kit at Harbor Freight, but no GM throttle body adaptor. We can find it on Napa & O'Reilly's website, but they can't find it to order it. I can buy their fuel pressure test kit for $135, which comes with the adaptor. A $5 part, they can't get it. Pain in the a$$.

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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Do you have a Autozone? They have the loan a tool program.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Does yours have the 2 fuel filter system? I know your pain with the pump my s10 is the same way. I had to take the bed off to get to the fuel pump. Which is much easier than dropping the tank unless you have a tranny jack, etc.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I'm gonna check the fuel pump pressure as soon as my buddy finds the proper adaptor. Looking online & asking around, I've come to the conclusion that there is moisture in the tank/fuel system. Seafoam will do very little, considering it was designed for 2 stroke outboard engines. After this tank of gas is gone, I'm putting in some Gumout Multi System Tuneup. If that doesn't do the trick, I'll remove the throttle body & clean the injectors manually. The truck runs better as the temps rise during the day. Maybe I'll take her out on the highway tomorrow & blow some crap out. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bidding on a fuel pressure tester with the correct fitting for GM tbi. 4 days to go. Pray for me. Bought some Gumout, hope it helps. The tester will determine if I need a fuel pump.









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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

If you have a way, and the time I would just go ahead and drop the tank. You can clean it out, and inspect the pump screen, etc. I did mine, and while I had it out I had the inside recoated. It was a s10 blazer so the only option I had was to drop the tank but Im glad I did because there was a ton of water, and sediment in the tank that could not be cleaned out any other way.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I'm holding out as long as I can. Still recovering from hip replacement surgery. No garage to work in. I dumped a can of Gumout in the tank yesterday, left the truck running, then added a tank of fresh gas. Drove it around some, really stomping on it when I could. Today the truck started up relatively easily, didn't stall, and ran pretty smooth. A couple times earlier in the morning, it felt hesitant on acceleration. Otherwise, it seemed to run a lot better. When it warms up, I'll look into it deeper. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

wjjones said:


> Do you have a Autozone? They have the loan a tool program.


If I had $135 in the bank, I could "buy/borrow" the test kit, then return it when I'm done. I can get a pressure tester with only the GM tbi fitting for about $35. Bidding on a used one, hopefully a bit cheaper.

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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

If you can burn that moisture out it should be fine.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I won the ebay auction for the pressure tester with tbi adaptor. $16. As soon as it gets here, I'm checking the fuel pump pressure. Truck was running crappy today. Stalled on me several times. Later, as the ambient temp rose, the sputtering decreased & stalling disappeared.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Fuel pressure tester arrived today. Hopefully tomorrow I can hook it up.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Tried to remove the fuel line going into the throttle body, but there is a clamp somewhere behind the engine that I can't see or reach. Will have to get it into my buddy's garage so we can work on it out of the cold. Now I hear, according to others with the same issue, that the MAP sensor or even the brake booster can be faulty. Too cold to work outside. Maybe next week...

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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

you can clamp off the brake booster line and bypass that, have you thought of removing the air inlet hose to the throttle body and spraying a cleaning agent suitable for the MAP sensor, this will gunk up over time and cause all sorts of problems, You should be able to buy a spray can of MAP sensor cleaner in your auto shop, and there is no point giving you a brand name from Oz. because the brand name will be different.

your problem is a simple problem and don't forget there is an exhaust gas analyser that works in conjunction with the MAP sensor but only after the engine is running.

also check out all of the vacuum lines that go to the different controls, a tiny split will give you problems also by giving false readings to the computer.

your engine is a gas engine I assume ??.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

It's a gas engine, 5.7L. It's been cold outside & my new hip doesn't seem to like colder temps. I'll definitely clean the MAP sensor
The vacuum lines are all good. Checked them a couple days ago. The brake booster made a loud squish sound a couple weeks ago, making me suspicious. The funny thing is, the whole rough running & acceleration started right after I filled the gas tank from a 5 gallon gas can that was sitting outside for a few days. Thought for sure that was the cause. Now I'm not so sure.

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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

a test you can try for the booster is, sit in the truck and place pressure on the brake pedal by pushing the pedal as if applying the brakes, hold the pedal down and then start the engine, when the engine starts the pedal should suck down further, and if this happens, then the booster would appear to be ok with no leaks.

you can place a finger and thumb around the injector and with the engine running, you should be able to feel the needle pulse/ticking.

I can understand how your new hip would feel in your cold weather being metal. this will draw the cold and be uncomfortable, have you been told not to twist suddenly on the new joint ?, this can pop out one of my mates has told me.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

I poured some Seafoam down that brake booster line into the intake, and let it sit till the next day. I started it, and it looked like a pile of tires burning coming out the tailpipe after that it ran really good for awhile. I think its time for another round. It cleans the upper intake. I noticed most shops that apply 3m, etc use that brake boost hose to feed the cleaner in.


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## willys55 (Oct 13, 2016)

that is what I do one my plow truck every year


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

FredM said:


> a test you can try for the booster is, sit in the truck and place pressure on the brake pedal by pushing the pedal as if applying the brakes, hold the pedal down and then start the engine, when the engine starts the pedal should suck down further, and if this happens, then the booster would appear to be ok with no leaks.
> 
> you can place a finger and thumb around the injector and with the engine running, you should be able to feel the needle pulse/ticking.
> 
> I can understand how your new hip would feel in your cold weather being metal. this will draw the cold and be uncomfortable, have you been told not to twist suddenly on the new joint ?, this can pop out one of my mates has told me.


Yeah, I have a few precautions to be aware of; no twisting at the waist, no turning my foot inward, no raising leg(or lowering body) past 90 degrees, no crossing operated leg (my right) over the other. Hard to put socks on, but I manage. Can't tie shoes, so I use elastic laces. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought some electric parts cleaner to clean the MAP sensor today. Gonna give it a try later or tomorrow. Truck running ok today, but smells like its running rich. I have some Gumout that I'll run through the vacuum hose.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought some parts on ebay. So far: new distributor cap & rotor for $6, set of 9 AC Delco spark plugs for $15, & a coolant temp sensor for $3. I can wait a while on the spark plug wires. Gonna need a new windshield very soon. It had a 6" long crack that ran vertically from about 4" from the passenger side going up. Now its all the way to the top & leaks. I can smell windshield washer fluid inside the truck when I use it.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Cleaned the map sensor the other day. Found some loose vacuum lines. The lines are plastic, but the rubber ends seemed a little "relaxed". Wrapped some electrical tape on the ends of the plastic lines to take up the gap. Seems to have made a difference. Truck starts up & runs, doesn't stall & seems to have regained her power. Maybe the moisture worked its way out? Maybe cleaning the map worked? Maybe swearing at it & wiggling wires around created better contacts? Still gonna do a tuneup & change the coolant temp sensor.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Apparently, I'm having trouble accessing the forum via the app. I created a bookmark on my tablet & have no trouble. Always something...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Works today. Go figure.

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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

If its similar mine had one inside the drivers side fender that runs from there to the intake. It controls the heat exchange flap that moves the heat from vent to floor, etc.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Doesn't sound similar...

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Cleaned the map sensor the other day. Found some loose vacuum lines. The lines are plastic, but the rubber ends seemed a little "relaxed". Wrapped some electrical tape on the ends of the plastic lines to take up the gap. Seems to have made a difference. Truck starts up & runs, doesn't stall & seems to have regained her power. Maybe the moisture worked its way out? Maybe cleaning the map worked? Maybe swearing at it & wiggling wires around created better contacts? Still gonna do a tuneup & change the coolant temp sensor.


Stop by NAPA and pick up a supply of the fuel and vacuum line compression fittings. Put one on each loose hose and it is problem solved. You want the flat spring steel types, not the wire kind.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Doesn't sound similar...
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app


Yours is ok if your heat swaps from floor to dash vent, etc.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

New distributor cap & rotor arrived today. New spark plugs arrived a couple days ago. Set up a makeshift scaffold using 2 concrete blocks & 2 2x8 boards. Gapped the plugs to .035", pulled the air cleaner & started on the driver side. Used a dab of anti-sieze on the threads & a dab of dielectric grease on the plug heads. Cleaned the wires with silicone wipes & put them back on. Passenger side. Removed the big, clunky plastic air box on the inner fender to gain better access to the plugs. Glad I did. Installed the new plugs the same way as the other side, then pulled the cap & rotor. They were well worn & needed replacing. Wiped everything down, reinstalled the air box & started up the truck. Blew a hole right out the side of the engine! Just kidding, started right up. Runs pretty good. Gonna need plug wires soon, but I can shop around for those. Still waiting for the temperature sensor. Wiped down both side mirrors, headlights & taillights with silicone wipes. Cleaned up & sitting down for a bit. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Washed the cup holder I bought last week with dish soap & hot water. Ready to install, maybe tomorrow.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Installed the new/used, clean gray cup holder. Closed:








Open:









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Truck running like crap again. Started a few days ago. Feels like a bad plug wire, but don't see anything obvious. Gotta check tomorrow. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Tried to set up my timing light to determine which plug wire is causing a miss, if indeed that is the case. Timing light doesn't work. Weak light, no flash. Looked for another one I have, but can't find it. Wiggled some wires & hoses. Couldn't find anything obvious. 

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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

if you have a multimeter, you can check the HT leads with that, another way to check for leakage in the leads is to lift the bonnet and run the engine at night in the dark, any leakage will show if this is going to earth.
https://www.ngk.de/en/technology-in-detail/ignition-cables/diagnosis/testing-of-ignition-cables/


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Fire it up at night you can see any arks, and such.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Did that a couple nights ago. Didn't see any arcing. Gotta figure out something soon. Coolant temp sensor on its way on a slow boat from China. Sometimes that helps. I think I have/had a few issues pop up randomly. Definitely needed plugs, cap & rotor, although the rough idle seems to come & go. 

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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

aren't any trouble codes showing/flashing on the instrument cluster?.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Seems like a pickup coil issue.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Is your brake fluid level dropping? GM is famous for failed seals in the master cylinder. Dumps brake fluid in the intake through the vacuum booster, leads to missing and eventually to frozen piston rings.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Service Engine Soon light comes & goes. Haven't jumped the OBD port to access codes yet. No loss of brake fluid. Truck starts up & runs, just sometimes idles rough. Ran ok today. Still waiting for coolant temp sensor. 

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Erratic idle at times, and Check Engine Light turns on and off somewhat randomly.

More than likely the EGR valve is bad, as this is pretty common on older GM vehicles. While changing the valve, also clean out the ports on the engine that flow to the valve. Make sure the gasket is completely cleaned off before reinstalling a new valve.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Good to know. I'll check that next.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Checked egr valve. Not working at all. Blocked the vacuum line going to it. Still runs like crap. Surges & dies. Starts right back up & runs at higher speeds, but not lower speed or idle.

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

You need to remove the bad EGR valve, clean the passages, then install a new valve. Or, remove the valve and use a blocking plate for that engine, then get the carburetor re-jetted, or the fuel injection remapped or the engine will stumble around like a drunk at bar closing.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Going for a used one Saturday. Otherwise, auto parts stores want $56.99 for a new one.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Unplugged the temperature sensor next to the thermostat this morning & she runs a lot better. Auto recycler said $5 for an egr valve. Temp sensor scheduled to arrive June 7th. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Drove to McDonald's this morning with the sensor unplugged. Stayed for about 3 hours, then left. Almost didn't make it out of the parking lot. Died, wouldn't start, smelled rich. Finally got it going, but surged like crazy. Plugged the sensor in when I got home. Getting sick of this crap.

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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

It's too new!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought & installed a new egr valve today. Cleaned the passages which were sooty, but not clogged. Repaired a rubber elbow for a vacuum line. Drove the truck a good distance to a Walmart, where I bought some oil & oil filters. Truck still idles a little rough & stumbles on acceleration, but doesn't surge like it used to. Found oil filters for my truck on clearance for 75 cents each. I bought 4 for the price of 1 Fram.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

While at the auto parts store, I found a rubber elbow for my vacuum line. Get this; they wanted $10 + tax for a little rubber elbow! I took a pic of the item with part number. I'll check ebay. Gotta be one out there for $2.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Checked ebay. Same part was $10 & up. I don't get it. I'll make something cheaper.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Temperature sensor arrived today. 5 minutes later, I installed it. Started up the truck with the air cleaner off & noticed a fuel leak at the throttle body. Tightened up the fittings & sprayed the fuel stains away. Took the truck down the road to get the computer to relearn the new part. Still sputters a little while accelarating, but that may go away. We'll see. Definitely runs better than it did last week.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Pics of new sensor, old sensor, fuel leak...





































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

My buddy bought a professional code reader for computer controlled vehicles. Pretty soon we're gonna figure out why it's running rough. Doing it all the time now. I think another sensor took a dump.

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Go online and print out a listing of all the primary and COMPANION codes. Once the reader displays the codes, refer to the listing and it will lead you to the failing component.

One other thought, but given the age of the truck, it would be a good idea to check the catalytic converter. They progressively plug and lead to increasingly rough running. That also leads to premature oxygen sensor failures.

If the cat is plugged, they usually can be rejuvenated by removing and blowing through them with a large rosebud and very blue flame to burn out the deposits. Sometimes a propane weed burner will do the trick too. Or if the converter somehow gets lost, get an eliminator pipe until you can find a replacement.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Hooked it up & a code 33 came up; MAP sensor voltage too high. Checked all the wires, checked all vacuum hoses. We even used a smoker to check for leaks. Nothing. Unplugged the MAP sensor & did a test drive. Took off like a bat outta hell. A minute later, it died. Started back up, idled & revved out of gear, but ran rough in gear. Ordered a new MAP sensor on ebay. Did hours of online research & got many different possibilities. As far as I know, it's the original MAP sensor, so it's a possibility. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Catalytic converter is ok.

New map sensor came in today. Installed it right away. Truck still runs like crap. Dies in gear, no power. Disconnected battery to clear computer. Didn't help. Many others seem to have the same problem, but nobody ever seems to find the cause. 

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Have you checked your vacuum? Low vacuum will error the MAP sensor, cause rough running, etc. 

Not sure if your engine is one of the GM versions with the plastic intake manifold, but if it is they leak after a few years.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

My buddy came by today with a new vacuum pump/gauge. Tested both map sensors. Both work like they should. Checked the idle air control solenoid & it doesn't move at all. Dirty, gunked up, gasket cracked & half missing. Tried to clean it to no avail. Ordered a new one on ebay. Should be here in a couple days. Scan tool shows other sensors working properly, including the oxygen sensor. Aluminum intake manifold, not plastic, not leaking. My sister had a 97 Blazer with a plastic intake manifold that leaked. I warned her not to buy it. She thought it was pretty & bought it anyway.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

New idle air control solenoid arrived today, one day ahead of schedule. I made a point of asking the seller if it came with the gasket, since it was not shown in the ebay ad pics. They assured me it did come with a gasket. Well, no damn gasket. I made one out of thin cardboard for now. Cleaned out the hole in the throttle body & installed it. Unhooked battery cable & reinstalled. Started up the truck & after 20 seconds, it runs rough. Once it warms up, it runs at a heavy lope like a top fuel funny car...then dies. Starts right up again, but lopes & eventually dies. Still can't make a trip around the block. Fuel pressure is 13 psi. Pulling out the last fragments of hair I have left.

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

You tested the manifold vacuum, right? Solid, no pulses and good? If that is good, you will need to get it scanned and root through both the primary and companion error codes. It may be the cold start circuit in the fuel injection is not responding and continuing to pump in extra fuel. That will flood out an engine that is below 85% of its new compression rating.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Engine is not flooding, it's starving. Engine computer won't control idle rpm's & opens iac to try to keep it running. Surges after 25 seconds of running, then eventually dies. Shut off key, restarts immediately, but starts loping after 25 seconds of running, then dies. 
Replaced iac, egr, coolant sensore, cap, rotor & plugs. Cleaned contacts, replaced 2 ground wire connectors. 
Local dealership wants $150 to hook it up to a diagnostic machine. I have about $60 in parts so far.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

RC Wells said:


> Have you checked your vacuum? Low vacuum will error the MAP sensor, cause rough running, etc.
> 
> Not sure if your engine is one of the GM versions with the plastic intake manifold, but if it is they leak after a few years.


Found out the code 33 (map sensor voltage too high) was caused by the iac opening & causing a low vacuum.

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Plugged filters in throttle body injectors?

Remove the air cleaner and start the engine and look into the throttle body and inspect both injectors, they should both spray a fine cone mist. If you see any dribbles get a TBI rebuild kit from NAPA or where ever. The kit will have very small filters for the injectors (easy to lose). If replacing those does not cure the problem then have the injectors cleaned in an ultrasonic bath (I scored an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner years ago, and it is great for this). If it still dribbles, it will be the fuel pressure regulator spring (but your pressure tested good, so I doubt the spring is an issue.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The injectors spray a beautiful, cone shaped spray, no dribbles. The tach jumps wildly when I stomp on the go pedal. Thought I'd try a new distributor module next. It really seems like more of an electronic issue than fuel. The iac & egr were both not working at all. My truck was obviously made in early 95, since these were transitional & they changed stuff midway through production. It's got obd 1 instead of obd 2. These past couple months were the first time I actually had any major issues with the truck. Going on 300k miles.

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If the distributor is original, it may have the shaft and bearings worn so badly it is bouncing around too.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ordered a new ignition module on ebay today. Hope it helps. Truck starts & runs, but won't idle without loping. Drove it a little today, but had to put it in neutral before stopping at a light & goose the throttle a couple times. The tach is acting funny, which leads me to believe the module is going. We'll know Tuesday.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Replaced the module yesterday. Ran all over God's creation trying to find heat sink compound to smear on the bottom of the module. Found a tube at Best Buy for $7. Cleaned the distributor base plate & installed the module. Started up the truck. 30 seconds later, it seemed like it was trying to figure out how to run right. After 5 minutes, it was loping like a top fuel funny car. Hoped it was the cure, but no. Did some more research yesterday & today. Bought a new ignition coil & installed it. Absolutely no difference. Crap crap crap.

First thing today, I jumped the A & B ports on the aldl. Codes came up; 22, 33 & 42. I think the 22 is the ign module, which I replaced. 33 is the map sensor, which I replaced. I think 42 was the iac, which I replaced. Stupid obd 1. 

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

I share your frustration with the OBD 1 diagnostics, they were a work in progress. 

This is the error code list for the GM OBD 1, 1988-1995 gasoline trucks:
12 - Normal, not meaningful
13 - O2 (oxygen sensor) circuit open
14 - ECT/CTS (engine coolant temperature) sensor circuit low (high temperature)
15 - ECT/CTS (engine coolant temperature) sensor circuit high (low temperature)
16 - VSS (vehicle speed sensor) buffer fault
21 - TPS (throttle position sensor) circuit high (signal voltage high)
22 - TPS (throttle position sensor) circuit low (signal voltage low)
24 - VSS (vehicle speed sensor) circuit low
28 - TR (transmission range) pressure switch assembly
32 - EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve error
33 - MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor circuit high (low vacuum)
34 - MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor circuit low (high vacuum)
35 - IAC (idle air control) error
36 - Idle speed control actuator error (when equipped)
42 - IC (ignition control) error
43 - KS (knock sensor) error
44 - Lean exhaust
45 - Rich exhaust
51 - PROM (memory caibration, chip) error
53 - System voltage high (supply to ECM/PCM)
54 - Fuel pump relay circuit low voltage
55 - ECM/PCM error

42 is your ignition control. That can be anything from a leaking vacuum hose to the advance, a cracked diaphragm in the advance, an internal distributor timing pivot sticking, module failure, to distributor bearings being worn to the point the dwell is no longer following the proper curve and causing the engine to stall at idle. A bad TPS also will trigger an IC error at times. But the usual cause is simply a worn out distributor.

22 is the throttle position sensor (TPS), that could also explain the rough running. When you remove the old one, there is a round rubber gasket between it and the throttle body. The new sensor does not include that component so it will need to be pulled off the old TPS, cleaned, and reused (or a new one purchased).

Also, back in your post I remember you replaced the EGR. If the holes through the manifold clog you can also get error codes 21 and 22. 

GM also had a run of soft camshafts in some of the 350 V8 engines back in the 90's. The lobes would wear down and cause rough running at all engine speeds. I thought all those were recalled, but one will pop up once in a while where the owner did not heed the recall. If yours runs smoothly at times, this will not be the issue.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Put the scanner on again today & ran the engine. Tested the tps & it is working properly. Don't have a vacuum advance on the distributor. Egr holes were quite clean. I poked a screwdriver in the holes & no clogs. 
Swapped the old distributor cap & rotor back onto the engine & ran it. started to idle after a couple minutes. I think I have to check the base timing before & after the new cap & rotor. The new cap & rotor were $5 & some change. made in China. May be off a few degrees? Not sure. 
Anyway, had to stop due to thunderstorm & eventual hail.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Put the scanner back on today, still showing the same 3 codes. Started checking new parts that were replaced & found the new $60+ egr valve was sticking & not working right. Took it back & got a new one. Put it on & no change, but the 2 codes 22 & 33 disappeared. Still showing a code 42, even after replacing the ign module. Ran out of light, so tomorrow I'm gonna check the pickup coil while the cap is off. Had to let it cool off anyway.
Checked the timing & it's where it should be. Gonna try running a new ground from the ecm to battery ground. Running out of options.

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

The usual suspects are down, test the ignition control module itself. Here is a how to: https://easyautodiagnostics.com/gm/4.3L-5.0L-5.7L/how-to-test-the-icm-1

In 30 years of running GMC field trucks I only had one module failure. It was because of all the dirt and dust in the fields started grounding the coil and no one told me the truck was having problems with missing until it just quit on them.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I'm about ready to part this thing out. Starts & runs, but won't stay running.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Knock sensor doesn't seem to work. Neither does egr solenoid.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

After more exhaustive research & testing, the egr solenoid is indeed working. The knock sensor is not. Ordered one on ebay for $13.50. Hope this is the last of it.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

New knock sensor arrived today. Installed it & cleared the computer. Started up the truck & after about a minute, it started loping again. Tried to clear comp again to to avail. Then my buddy said the engine to body ground strap looked iffy. He pinched it & it practically snapped in half! Then he touched the body to frame ground strap right next to it & it broke in half! We hooked up a jumper cable from the engine to the frame & started the truck. Guess what? Ran nice & smooth. Son of a #%$&!. Found a couple heavy cables in my shed that will work perfectly as ground straps. Ran out of light, so tomorrow will be the day. Pretty sure this is it. I've spent $100 on assorted parts & sensors, but some of those were definitely not working at all. 

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Good to know. One for the books! Dodge trucks are notorious for ground problems creating errors in their ECM, but never ran across this in a GM product.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Kicked its ass today! Took out the air box so I could get a little better access. Found a nice bolt boss on top of the intake manifold where the egr solenoid bracket goes. Took off the bracket & cleaned the bolt surfaces with a flap wheel, cleaned all bolts & nuts on the wire wheel. Removed the frame ground strap bolt & replaced it with a slightly larger self-tapping bolt from a mid 60s Chevy. Created 2 new ground cables using a couple of cables that had been hanging on a nail in my shed for years. A terminal on one end & a clamp on the other. Just happened to have 2 terminal ends the right size. 
Measured & cut the cables to length, added the new terminal ends, crimped them on with a hydraulic crimper, then soldered the ends. Finished off both terminals with a length of heat shrink sleeve. Bolted everything up, checked continuity; 12.2 volts. Yeeha! Ran the truck & no more loping or stalling. Drove it around with the scanner on it & everything is working, although it still shows a knock sensor circuit error. Hard to believe because it reads the knock sensor activity & shows when I knocked on the engine with a screwdriver. Anyhoo, cleaned up, reinstalled the glove box (access to computer). 



















































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Driver side chrome exhaust tip came off today just as I was backing into my driveway after dropping the boy off at school. I may just throw a couple regular pipes on as extensions instead of chrome tips.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Truck conked out yesterday. Towed it home. Swapped ign coil. No dice. Swapped pickup coil. Started up, but I mixed up a couple plug wires. Had to recheck the firing order. Runs rough. May have to check again tomorrow. Days are shorter & colder, eyes are going, knees & hands hurt from arthritis. Falling apart. But hey, it's running.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Left tailpipe separated from the muffler while I was driving. Heard a clang clang clang, then finally a dragging sound. Had to pull into an Aldi parking lot & remove it from its hanger. Shopping around for tailpipes now. I can get a pair on ebay for $145.
Bought a pair of taillights on ebay after karma bit me on the backside. Tried to chuck an old, damaged kitchen cabinet I was storing in my garage into a random, unaccompanied dumpster. As fate would have it, it slipped & bashed my left taillight. Both were scratched & frosted from 23 years of weather anyway. $27/shipped for both taillight assemblies. Arrived in 3 days. Installed them yesterday. They work, but don't quite fit right. The left one sticks out to the side a little & the right one is inward of the bedside, not flush. Both have very sharp edges & the reverse lens on the left one popped in after I had it installed. Had to remove it & push the lens back in from behind. Not even glued in. Holding for now. Thanks Taiwan. Last pic is the old taillight.






























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Need an exhaust system from the cat back. Was told about $300. 

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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Get the components from NAPA and do it yourself for half or less.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

My GOODNESS! I just discovered this thread and I have to bow down and praise your master scrounging ability. I thought I was a pretty good scrounger, but I am deeply humbled by your skills. At this point, you need to keep this truck running as a monument to your ability to make something good out of practically nothing. Just reading this has been educational for me.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

bontai Joe said:


> My GOODNESS! I just discovered this thread and I have to bow down and praise your master scrounging ability. I thought I was a pretty good scrounger, but I am deeply humbled by your skills. At this point, you need to keep this truck running as a monument to your ability to make something good out of practically nothing. Just reading this has been educational for me.


You should see some of the things I've picked up for free or cheap, fixed up, then sold for a hefty profit; lawn tractors, push mowers, snowblowers, tires, wheels, playground, equipment, furniture, vehicles, etc. 
It's mostly out of necessity, but I suppose there's some sport involved.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

RC Wells said:


> Get the components from NAPA and do it yourself for half or less.


Funds are tight either way. I only have a driveway to work from & in the winter, that's not an option. The muffler is still intact, so it's not obnoxiously loud for now. It can wait til spring.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Trans just starting to shift hard from 1st to 2nd. Seems normal going into other gears. I'm thinking it may be the 1-2 shift accumulator is worn. Gonna have to wait til warmer weather. 

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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

I just replaced the cat on my s10, and the muffler. Dont want to do that very often got the cat off ebay for $80, and muffler (direct fit) from autozone about $50. At 16 years old both needed replacing. Especially the muffler it was full of holes about the size of a nickel.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I patched my exhaust using an old trailer fender (flat sheet metal) & a few self-tapping screws. Much quieter & bought me some time before I replace the entire system. Truck has 300k miles & is on its 2nd exhaust system.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Sanded & ground the rust & bubbling paint on my driver side cab corner. Brushed on some phosphoric acid. Tomorrow it gets rinsed off, then coated with self-etching primer. Gotta see if I still have some body filler left to smooth it out. Orherwise, that's my next purchase.
 








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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Cleaned, sanded & primed the cab corner today.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

A light sanding, then a coat of white primer. Tried to buy some POR15 locally, but that stuff is not cheap. I need a quart, but will probably buy on ebay or amazon. $45 for a quart? No freaking way!









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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If you have the equivalent of an Industrial Finishes store nearby, just pick up a moisture cured polyurethane automotive finish to match. Very durable and cost effective, and color matches your GM paint code.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

RC Wells said:


> If you have the equivalent of an Industrial Finishes store nearby, just pick up a moisture cured polyurethane automotive finish to match. Very durable and cost effective, and color matches your GM paint code.


Thanks. I sure will.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Yesterday, I ground & sanded both cab corners, lower front bedsides & front fender rear lower sections. Acid treatment. Today I wiped everything down & applied self etching primer, just before the drizzle. Right front fender is a loss, as is the inner fenderwell. I see them on craigslist every so often. Gotta tackle the door bottoms & tailgate next.























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

POR15 Topcoat arrived today at the paint store. Going to pick up a quart tomorrow. Starting on the trailer hitch, rear axle, springs & front tow hooks. Waiting for extra cash to buy a quart of white.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got the paint. Got a couple lawn tractors to fix & resell before I can continue on the truck.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Thoroughly cleaned the windshield, side windows & mirrors. Installed a new set of wiper blades. 

Rear bumper getting really crunchy. Used it to step up into the bed & felt like my foot was going through it. On the lookout for a good used one. New would be nice, too.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Starter solenoid been sticking for a couple months. Battery starting to get weak. Cold outside. 12.16 after an hour charge, then resting 10 minutes. 

Found my original starter in the shed. Gotta get it working so I can swap starters, then fix this one to use as a spare. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Looked at the starter in my truck. Same type as the spare; gear reduction, sealed solenoid. The cable connections look green & corroded. Going to take the starter out tomorrow, clean all connections, clean & lube the starter & reinstall. May be all it needs. I still may buy a new solenoid & install it on the 2nd starter. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Yikes.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought 2 new solenoids & installed them on both starters. Starts better, but still need a battery.























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Chasing a drain somewhere in the system. Battery & charging system are good. I suspect the cd player, so I unplugged it. Hopefully that's it. It was doing this 2 years ago. Stopped for a while. Back up to its old tricks.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Battery has been holding a charge since I unplugged the cd player. Looks like I get to use the battery money elsewhere. Gotta clean up the contacts on the windshield wiper circuit board. May need to resolder contacts. Hopefully save some money there, too.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Had trouble with trailer lights lately. Bad ground. Clean & replaced a couple terminals. Turned out to be a bad 4 flat plug on the truck. It's actually a 3 way adaptor, going between the left & right taillights, then out to a trailer plug. Replaced the entire adaptor for $17 at Auto Zone. Gooped it up good with dielectric grease, then plugged it all in. Trailer lights work as they should with no flickering. Had to cut the wires going to the led light bar between my rear bumper & tailgate. Getting a new one for Christmas. 3 colors, 3 rows of leds & 6 functions. Plugs in using a 4 flat connector. Reverse light wire gets wired in separately. Gonna need a 3 way, 4 flat adaptor to plug it all in, but I have time before I need to buy one.
















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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

This is the led light strip I bought & am waiting on.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Damn battery wouldn't start the truck this morning. 17 degrees F . Jump started to get going. Put the charger on when I got home. About 4 hours charge. If it's weak tomorrow, I' m getting a new battery. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Tailgate trunion on the driver side rusted off. Can't open tailgate now. Gotta wait til after Christmas to fix it.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ordered a pair of tailgate hinges from the auto parts store. Tailgate side. Supposed to be in next day. Nothing. Guess I gotta wait another day. 

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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Bought 2 new solenoids & installed them on both starters. Starts better, but still need a battery.
> View attachment 51333
> View attachment 51335
> View attachment 51337
> ...


T Briggs; Pleaseeeee, where did you buy the solenoid? I can't find one for my Astrovan, had to buy another. US companies usually have a Canada branch.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

deerhide said:


> T Briggs; Pleaseeeee, where did you buy the solenoid? I can't find one for my Astrovan, had to buy another. US companies usually have a Canada branch.


Ebay. Tons of them on there. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Got my tailgate hinges. $17/pair. Now I need a nice day or an hour in my buddy's heated garage to install them.









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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Ebay. Tons of them on there.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G850A using Tractor Forum mobile app


Found some, either they wanted PayPal(the hell with that) or wouldn't ship to here, same storys as 6 months ago. No prob to get a starter. I'm ok but have a vg starter under the bench for want of a selenoid. NAPA doesn't even list one. Oh well, someday.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I don't like paypal either, but it makes things a lot easier. If you know the part number, I could probably order one & ship it from here. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Replaced the left tailgate hinge. Had to chisel off the spot weld in the center. The rest was mostly rotted & twisted. Sprayed primer on the tailgate & hinge before installation. May have to tack a weld on the corners to kep the hinge from shifting. Gotta get the right hinge on the truck & install it before it's too late. Tailgate rusting along the bottom on the left side. Damn road salt. 

LED light strip arrived, but I'm gonna wait til I have the battery issues resolved.
















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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I had an '85 Suburban with the tailgate, for about 20-25 years. The bottom rotted out of the tail gate, along with about half of the rear window track! I never even tried to use the tailgate for the last 10 years I had the darn thing. Road salt is horrid, but folks these days can't seem to drive on anything but bare pavement or they get into trouble, it seems.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

Nice rig and congratulations on your scrounging and trading abilities!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Had to do a "field expedient repair" the other day. Muffler hanger broke off. Whipped out a wire coat hanger, wrapped it around both outlets & the frame hanger. Perfect fit.

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Woohoo! Bought a brand new Exide battery for the truck today. Advertised on Home Depot's website for $89 for a size 78 battery, 800 cold cranking amps. Not the same when I got there. Same battery was $99, not $89. Showed them the ad & they honored it. Gave me $12 for my old one. Bought a new brass bolt at the auto parts store on the way home. Installed in the snow. 3 year warranty. 

Tax return came in. Taking $200 for the parts I need for my exhaust system. Little at a time...

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought 3 plate stickers, 1 for each vehicle. Had to wait one hour for the computer system to come back online. 
Removed the old plate sticker & installed a new one.
Doing a visual inspection tomorrow in my buddy's heated garage so I can make a list of exhaust parts needed. May or may not need a muffler, but definitely need tailpipes & hangers.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Exhaust shop wanted $581+tax for a new exhaust system. Stainless tips another $69 each. Pass! Ordered a muffler/dual tailpipe kit on ebay for $150 on Monday. Arrived today (Thursday). Still need to have a shop custom bend an intermediate pipe for me, since it's now a custom exhaust. Hope it's under $100. I can install it. Just need someone with a bender to bend it.























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Removed the non-working LED light strip between the tailgate & bumper, sanded the area & applied a coat of POR15. Did the same to the slightly rusty taillight opening on the right side. Still gotta do the left side & a 2nd coat across the bottom before I install the new LED light strip. 

Made a new right side tailgate hinge, on the truck, using the original hinge base & welding on a solid chunk of steel my buddy got from a machine shop. Chucked it in a lathe & faced off both ends. Over to the Bridgeport & milled off the sides. Cut it to length with a chop saw. A little grinding & filing, then welded it to the original base after grinding away the rusted part. Some self-etching primer, followed by POR15 & onto the truck after 24 hours curing time. Sprayed some white lith grease on both hinges. Works nice & smooth. 

Now, some new exhaust, a new rear bumper, a license plate sticker, a pair of new visors, front brakes, both rocker panels...
























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

More pics the forum wouldn't let me upload...


























































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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Removed the left taillight assembly, scraped the rust, sanded & painted the opening with POR15. Sanded the area between the tailgate & bumper & applied a 2nd coat of POR15. After a couple days, I plan on installing a 60" led multi-function light strip. Plugs into the 4 flat trailer connector. For now, I have to unplug it to use the trailer. I ordered a y connector harness on ebay which is on a slow boat from Hong Kong. Got a throttle postion sensor on the way, too. Sputters when it warms up, loss of power, etc. These & other symptoms which indicate a bad tps. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Bought a throttle position sensor on ebay. 4 days later some random gasket shows up. Wtf is this, I ask myself? I have no idea what this 30 cent gasket goes to. Contacted the seller & they apologized, sent out another with a tracking number. Should be here tomorrow, according to the location on the tracking site. Shipping from New Jersey to Illinois.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Installed the led light strip using the new y adaptor. Greased up all plugs with dielectric grease, taped on a couple lengths of plastic wire loom cover & zip tied everything out of the way. Plugged the reverse light wire into the socket & plugged in the taillight socket. Everything works like it should. Nice & bright.

Soon, the tps...
















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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Changed out the tps. Seems to be working. Gotta take it for a longer drive to be sure. 

Old tps had a couple bug carcasses in it. Not a critical spot, though.









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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Truck still sputters after it warms up. Guess it wasn't the tps. Next up, new plug wires.

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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

I've forgotten if your truck is gas or diesel. New distributor cap?


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

bontai Joe said:


> I've forgotten if your truck is gas or diesel. New distributor cap?


It's gas. I've replaced the distributor cap, rotor, ignition module, coolant temp sensor, ignition coil, map sensor, egr valve, spark plugs, engine-to-frame & body-to-frame ground straps, idle air control sensor & throttle position sensor. 

Next step would be spark plug wires & possibly oxygen sensor, I guess. It only sputters on acceleration after it gets up to operating temperature. According to the youtube videos I've seen, the culprit should be the tps. A buddy of mine with a few similar trucks had the same issue. He changed the tps & problem solved. 

Looking at more related videos, it seems a common denominator is the O2 sensor. I don't have a scan tool, so it's hard for me to diagnose things. Since the O2 sensor is relatively inexpensive and, as far as I know original, it may be time to replace it.

More to come...



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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Replaced the oxygen sensor with a new one. Came out easy enough. Had to loosen, tighten, loosen some more, etc. Wiring connector was a pain to reach. It's above the cat & can only fit one hand up there at a time. Dabbed a small amount of anti-seize on the threads with a Q tip & dabbed some dielectric grease into the wiring connector using the other end of the Q tip. Sensor went in easy enough, but the wiring connector took longer to connect using one hand that is numb & tingling from the nerve damage to my right shoulder & arthritis in both hands. I finally lined it up & felt it click into place. Ran it up to temp, drove it around. Used it for a few days & haven't felt the stumble or hesitation while accelerating from a stop so far. Fingers crossed.

Gonna need a window regulator for driver side. Took the inner panel off & looked inside. Gears chewed up. It's on the wish list, along with: 3" exhaust pipe about 5' long, rear bumper, new sun visors, driver side rocker panel (I have the passenger side), paint (Alpine White), new Silverado emblems for the cab, side molding kit & Z71 decals for the bed. Maybe Santa will make up for not bringing me a Tonka car carrier when I was a kid. Doubt it. Jerk...






























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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Well, after a couple weeks of driving, it still seems to sputter when accelerating after a stop when it's warmed up. Doesn't do it every single time, just enough to be aggravating. I can accelerate slowly & coax it out of the sputter sometimes. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

2021 to do/wish list:

Replace both outer rocker panels. I have the right side but need to acquire the left side.

Repair, sand & paint left cab corner. It's been replaced a couple years ago, but some rust is popping through the paint.

Weld in a patch about the size of a golfball to the lower rear section of the left front fender.

Replace the right front fender. 

Replace the rear bumper.

Repair a few rust spots on top of the cab above the windshield.

Repaint the cab white.

Install 5 cab marker lights, which I have.

Repaint bed white.

Sand & paint frame gloss black.

Install new exhaust system, which I have, except for a 4 or 5 foot length of 3 inch pipe that goes between the cat & muffler.

Replace front brake pads & check rear brake shoes.

Replace headliner.

Replace both sun visors.

Replace driver side window regulator & motor.

Replace the Z71 decals, Silverado badges & side moldings with new pieces after paint.

I'm sure there will be more to add to the list. We'll see what I can actually accomplish.

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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

You're gonna be busy I see.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

When you at least list things out, it gives you the opportunity to search for good deals on parts, and it sounds like you got a plan as well!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

It looks like I won't be buying a new truck anytime soon, so I gotta do what I can to keep this truck going. A window regulator with motor is about $30 on ebay, rocker panel is about $30. Decals & trim are low on the list. I have some white automotive paint. The tailgate works good for now, even though it's rusting out on the bottom left side. I picked up a used, bent replacement, but it's really not good enough to be on my truck, so it's up for sale on craigslist right now.

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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

Got to make extra sure the frame is solid. My 05 chevy had terminal frame rot, and I've seen several pictures of 90s chevys that buckled unexpectedly, so I know it's not just the later era that does this. I went to an older Ford because it still had a C channel frame. It needs plenty of work, but I will be investing that money onto a known solid foundation. The first two new vehicles I've ever purchased went to the graves with perfect driveline and rust induced frame failures.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

New spark plug wires took care of the stumbling while accelerating from a stop after it warmed up. Paid $16 on ebay for wires made in the USA. Half the price of a cheap set at the local auto parts store.

Today I noticed a leaking power steering hose. Ordered both hoses on ebay. They are both the same age, so...

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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Interesting thread (read the entire thread). You need to drop the pan on the trans and change the filter, it's way, way past time but don't change the fluid. Put the old fluid back in (if it's not burnt that is), just clean the pan and replace the filter. If it's burnt, replace it but it may or may not shift properly, always a crap shoot with older tranny's. I'd be changing the front and rear diff fluids too.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Your advice will be considered. 

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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

I believe their are ways to tell if it's an OEM filter.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Actually, with a slush box, you should change the fluid every 50K or so. Most people never do and then you have issues. AT's are always expensive to fix. Worst thing you can do is take it in and have it 'flushed'. All that does is dislodge any band material that is lodged inside and clog the works up. AT's have no gears inside. Every 'gear' change is actually a clutch pack.

Nice buggy though. I hope my wife's Suburban lasts that long.


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## Groo (Jan 17, 2020)

SidecarFlip said:


> Actually, with a slush box, you should change the fluid every 50K or so. Most people never do and then you have issues. AT's are always expensive to fix. Worst thing you can do is take it in and have it 'flushed'. All that does is dislodge any band material that is lodged inside and clog the works up. AT's have no gears inside. Every 'gear' change is actually a clutch pack.
> 
> Nice buggy though. I hope my wife's Suburban lasts that long.


They do have reduction gears.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

No, they don't unless you are referring to the planets. All the power transmission is through multiple wet clutch packs actuated by pressurized ATF.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Finally replaced the exhaust system after my muffler decided to go MIA. I found it a couple days later but it was DOA.

I bought a muffler & tailpipes a while back, but needed a pipe custom-bent over the crossmember, from the cat to the muffler.

Took it to a muffler shop & they made a pipe, then assembled my parts. Instead of both tailpipes exiting straight back, they made them exit behind the rear wheels. I would prefer they angled back somewhat, but that's all they could do with what I provided to them. They didn't use the hangers that came with the kit but welded a couple hangers on that used the original rubber insulators. They used my clamps that came with the kit, but broke one because they were not the heavy duty type. I should replace them or mig the seams. 

Also, I picked up a nice right front fender from a 1999 Suburban for $50. It's blue, but I do have some white automotive paint. The whole truck needs a repaint after some rust remediation. Time for a color change? I have some dark blue...









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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Have you bothered to flush the trans and change the filter and clean the magnet?


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

I have not. Million things to do & only so much time. And energy. 

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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Picked up a good used rear bumper for $80. Originally went to look at a tailgate, the guy asked if I needed any other parts. Needs a good scrubbing with an SOS pad, rust removal on the inner brace, then a coat of POR15 on the inner surface. A license plate light is missing, but I'll pick the best of the 2 on my original bumper. The rear plastic impact strip is also missing, but my original is reusable. Gotta reuse my bumper brackets, too.

Passed on the tailgate. It had a rust bubble in the pinch weld at the bottom left, next to the hinge. I have a rust-free tailgate with a bow in it. I'm thinking about cutting the bottom off of it & welding it onto my original tailgate if I can't find one that's nice. And cheap.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Pressure washed the bumper, scrubbed the chrome with an SOS pad, dried the inside, sanded & wirebrushed, then applied a 2nd coat of acid.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Taped all the holes, wirebrushed & coated inside the bumper with gloss black POR15. Let it sit on the workbench & bake in the sun. I was gonna apply a 2nd coat of POR15 but I think it looks pretty good as it is.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

That bumper is looking GOOD TB!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Removed the tape from all the holes in the bumper today. Getting closer...


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Borrowed my buddy's 20 volt impact driver & removed the rear bumper. Had to peel away some of the rotten bumper to access some of the bolts & nuts. In a few places, there was nothing but a layer of chrome holding it together. I was able to save all the bolts & nuts for reuse. 

Sanded down the bumper brackets & tow hitch, degreased & applied gloss black POR15. Old bumper is on the workbench so I can remove a few nuts from the impact strips on top & on the outer edge of the bumper, then transfer over to the new bumper. License plate lights & license plate, too.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

WOW! That there is is some serious rust. Like ship sunk at sea for 50 years kind of rust. I'm sorry to see you lost your picture of Hillary. That made me laugh out loud!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Swapped the plastic impact strips & top cover to the new bumper. Had to carefully lube & remove the metal nuts on the plastic studs that secure the plastic to the bumper. Swapped a license plate light that came with the bumper & the best of 2 from my original bumper. Wirebrushed all bolts & nuts & lubed them. Cleaned the bumper & plastic with Gibbs rust inhibitor/cleaner. Installed the bumper on the truck. Reinstalled license plate. Ready to go.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

I really like your "work rug". What a simple, but GREAT idea. I wish I had thought of doing that about 15 years ago. That is definitely a idea.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The rug was a freebie from my ex-brother-in-law. He worked at that company & we did some work on the old building when the company moved. Lots of stuff left behind. Got several poster size picture frames, office supplies, the rug & other stuff I can't remember. I use it any time I have to lie down or kneel in the driveway or yard. A stone to the knee hurts a lot when you plop down on it.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

Tecumseh,
You have done a big rebuild, looks real good.
I just got a 'backyard sitter', a 2009 Escape. Hasn't been on the road for 4 years because of the steering recall, her kids used it for a playhouse. I'm driving it, seems to be ok, needed a battery. The new windshield ($548) is going in Tuesday.
It's just coming daylight and there is frost on the car roofs, 5:30am .........


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

You have frost on the car roofs???? I'm in PA and wearing shorts.


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

bontai Joe said:


> You have frost on the car roofs???? I'm in PA and wearing shorts.





bontai Joe said:


> You have frost on the car roofs???? I'm in PA and wearing shorts.


If I could spell Penneselvania?? I would go there, but......... I think the lack of snow and cold weather would ruin my snowmobile and my snowshoes would be lonely !!!
It rained all day- but my new windshield is great. The Missus lil' Toyota had a lump in the rf tire so I got one of her winter ones put on.......$17 _(_&^&*()_ I brought them to the shop, they didn't have to take off or balance.... I gave them a 20 and said," if you are that hard up for money here is a donation".
I have been to PA a few times with good memories.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Ripped my driver side door apart & replaced the window regulator/motor. My original regulator got tore up when the screws holding the motor on loosened up. A few plastic door panel retainers were broken or missing, but I bought a bag of 100 a few years ago. Greased up the tracks, rollers & linkages with white lithium grease. Washed all the windows & wipers with ammonia-based cleaner. Gotta relearn how to drive my truck without wrestling the window up & down. $32/shipped on ebay. I even got to keep the old motor just in case. The scrapes & scratches on my arms will heal eventually...


Next project is the crazy wiper motor/circuit board. I bought it used at a junk yard & it worked ok for a few years, now it stops when & where it damn well pleases. High, low, delay, ya just never know with this thing. Sometimes it doesn't work at all. $10 for a new circuit board on ebay.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

TecumsehBriggs said:


> Ripped my driver side door apart & replaced the window regulator/motor. My original regulator got tore up when the screws holding the motor on loosened up. A few plastic door panel retainers were broken or missing, but I bought a bag of 100 a few years ago. Greased up the tracks, rollers & linkages with white lithium grease. Washed all the windows & wipers with ammonia-based cleaner. Gotta relearn how to drive my truck without wrestling the window up & down. $32/shipped on ebay. I even got to keep the old motor just in case. The scrapes & scratches on my arms will heal eventually...
> 
> *I know that story with the Suburban. Getting it apart to replace the door handle was an exercise in scraped and bruised fore arms.*
> 
> ...


My Ford Focus is doing the same thing but when I put the Autel scanner on it. it's telling me the ECM has a fault in it so I presume the brain box that controls everything else is also controlling the wiper motor. Not about to fiddle with that. A new ECM is huge bucks plus it would need to be programmed for the vehicle.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Gonna try to resolder the circuit board in the hopes that the solder has weakened or corroded. The unit is a used junkyard replacement from a 91, if I remember correctly.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Nothing ventured, nothing gained they say...


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

You have me wondering if my wipers on my Focus also have an independent 'brain board' separate from the ECM. I'll have to do some snooping as my wipers sometime have a 'mind of their own'....


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Replaced the wiper pulse board about a week ago. Said "screw it" to trying to fix the old one. I was missing 1 of the 3 screws for the cover, but the new board came with a new cover & 1 screw. Cleaned everything up, installed the new board & cover, added a little dielectric grease on the terminals & secured the power plug with a couple zip ties. Everything works like it should. The wipers delay like they should, washers spray, wipers return properly. Cleaned the windshield & wiper blades, stuck a wire in the washer nozzles to make sure they weren't clogged. Job done.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Hopefully, good to go now.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Left cab corner showing lots of rust despite being replaced several years ago by me. Ground down the surface, then wound up cutting out a cancerous chunk from the bottom. Coated it with POR15 for now. I have another patch panel; actually both sides & a right side rocker panel that I picked up for free from a guy on craigslist. Still need a left side rocker panel & both inner rockers. Another project for this summer, along with the mowers, the yard, veg garden, my '65 C-10, wife's car, etc.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Why am I not allowed to add photos?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

You should be able to? Have you tried to sign out and sign back in again? There have been no changes to the forum, and you are still way up there in the "Good Books". A lot of us watch for your updates!


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

Pics of rusted out cab corner & temporary repair. Looks like I can post pics today. Icons were lighter color yesterday & did not function. Weird.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Looks like pretty terminal cancer to me. Typical from driving in the winter up here in salt the roads country I'd be more concerned about the frame, it too looks pretty corroded. My 97 stays garaged all winter. N o salt, no snow equals no rust.


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## TecumsehBriggs (Jun 17, 2011)

The frame is ok. Wish I had a garage. Started collecting concrete blocks but only have enough for 1 side wall so far. I'll be 70 by the time I get it built. By then it won't matter anymore.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

You need to seriously consider a Clearspan truss arch building. I have 2 plus the 2 car garage and attached shop but the Clearspan Truss Rach buildings are cheap compared to a conventional post and framed building, about 1/4 the cost and you (and your kids and wife) can erect it yourself. Amy and I put up two big ones (90 feet long x 46 feet wide x 15 feet high), with roll up overhead doors and man doors on each end. All it takes to put one up is a cordless drill driver and follow the instructions, Clearspan provides everything necessary, even the self tapping Tek screws. best part for me at least is the fact that they are not a taxable building because there is no rat wall here in Michigan. The covering is guaranteed unconditionally fir 15 years (mine has been up for 20 and shows no wear). I recommend them and they come in many sizes and covering colors too.

No matter how cold it is outside, it never gets below freezing inside.

If I was 70 again...lol

I'd never be without inside storage. All my hay goes in one and all the equipment in the other, including my semi tractor and my grain trailer.


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