# MTD 18 117 restoration



## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

So I've picked up a non runner last week that I'm planning on restoring as a project over some time...

It's 18 117 MTD. I'm not sure of the model number and year, still trying to figure that out in order to get manuals etc for it. So if anyone can help please do.

I'll upload some pics of it later.

It's basically a 18hp B&S opposed twin engine with a triple blade 117cm cutting deck, vari speed belt drive.
There quite a bit of rust on some of the body panels which I will all take off and redo to get them restored. Rust is not to bad so don't see any major issues.

First problem was the following. The cap from the petrol tank was off, found it later in the chassis, so it got a lot of water in the tank and subsequently in the carb and the engine.
So I started off last night getting all the water out of the engine and removing and cleaning the carb, petrol pump, and fuel tank. I had a look inside the engine and there doesn't seem to be any signs of rust or damage from the water...
So I refitted the inlet manifold and carb. Will replace fuel line and filter and also include a shutoff valve. New battery also to be sourced and will then try and start it up.

Once the engine is up and running I'll get it up to temperature and shut it down and remove it from the chassis completely for the project to start. If the motor is no good then I'll probably scrap the project... All signs are however there that the motor is still in very good condition so we'll see as we go on.

Checked the oil to see if it's fine for initial start up, no sign of water in the oil and the oil is not even very dirty, actually looks like it has been serviced just a few hours before it was shut down the last time, sparkplugs is also practically brand new..

One question for those familiar with the 18hp opposed twins. What oil is best to use in this motor? I see in the manual they suggest a SAE30 or a 10W30 and also 5W30 and 10W30 synthetic... I have some difficulty in finding a 10W30 synthetic... and I'm thinking of using a 5W40 fully synthetic. Any comments?


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

So a quick update on what's happening.

So I refitted the carb and installed a new fuel tank and filter... used a car battery to start it up as I decided not to get a battery for the tractor now as it would then stand for quite a few months before really getting used.

The engine started up immediatly after I chocked it enough. Didn't miss fire or anything. I let it run for a while to properly heat up the engine to get rid of any moisture inside the engine and then took it for a run on the small open field across the street, and picked up another point that needs attention...

Will post some photo just now.

The list below of what need to be done thus far, not particularly in order of importance.

1. Refurbish cutting deck. Some bearings are shot and need to be replaced, also want to sand and repaint to make sure there's no rust hiding. Deck is not a to bad shape.

2. Tractor body panels to be sanded and repainted. There is quite a bit of rust on the panels. Not deep but the paint is peeling off at a lot of places with rust underneath. Thinking about having the panels sand blasted to get down to the metal and make sure all rust are gone.

3. front axle mounting plates to be fixed. The plates where the front axle is attached to are bent forward, resulting in some play in the front axle and too much movement when steering. Will replace the plates with ones from another chassis that I have or just bend them back. Will then also make and install brackets/plates to strengthen the whole things as the design is maybe flawed a bit. Thinking of welding in some extra metal on the existing plates as well to make them stronger.

4. Remove and check rear axle. Want to replace oil in the rear "gearbox" and together with that while working under there check the whole drive train. There are some small issues as it would not pull in a low drive ratio belt setting... so will check tension springs, belts as well as the actual varying pully.

5.Electrics. I will rewire the whole tractor, replace the broken current meter with an electronic current and volt meter. Also need to replace the broken ignition switch, still have to decide if i'll stay original or maybe just for the more modern switch. Will also link up all the safety switches again. The switch on the seat has been disconnected...

6. Lights. This tractor has the most stupid lights ever. although not really needed I might just fit 2 3 wat high power LEDs to the front light. Will draw less current that the current 10 - 20 watts worth of standard lighting and will more or less equal to 60w halogen light output in cold white....

7. Engine. Will fit an inline fuel line valve on the fuel line. Already fitted a bigger filter. Engine need to be serviced and cleaned properly. So will remove all covers and give it a good clean. I suspect that the alternator on the engine is dead. See you can get on in the states for around $60... so over here they would probably go for closes to $130...
Thinking of opening up the engine to check bearings etc but will see when it comes to that. It will require a new set of gaskets etc. so if I can maybe get some for decent prices imported or brought in then I'll probably open it up..

Photos to follow


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

So here is a few general photos of the tractor. Will appreciate if anyone can shed some light on the model number of this tractor. I'm in need of some parts lists to get belt part numbers.
Basic details that I know:
Engine: 18hp opposed twin B&S model: 422707 type:1214 01 code:9408035B
Cutting deck: 117cm/46" 3 blade deck
7 varispeed drive














































http://vid42.photobucket.com/albums/e330/WillemTr/20160510_161009_zpsepxjrtlt.mp4


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

For those that knows the 18hp opposed twin. If you have a look at the video. Is the engine knock that you can hear normal?
It's running and starting perfectly fine and pulls fine aswell when I took it for a drive... just contemplating whether I should open up the engine...


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

from the sound,I'd say you actually have one cylinder that is not firing,and,possibly,a bad connecting rod,or scored crank journal.
Remove the sparkplugs,and check for spark,and compression.
look at the plugs,
They should be a tan/grey color.
If one is black/wet,that's the side that has a problem.


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

I'll have look this afternoon when I get home.

When idling it does sound like the one side is missing every now and then...
Sparkplugs looked fine when I took them out before the startup, but since they were practically new I'll check them again.

Listened to the video again. It does sound at a stage if there's a miss on the one cylinder. If it's kept up on speed it does stabilise. 
Maybe best to see if I can get some gaskets etc and open up.
Any idea of where I can get torque specs for the engine? The problem here is getting parts usually takes time and cost alot more than what they should. 
Will maybe ask my sister to bring over some parts from the states....

How difficult is it to get gaskets and parts for this engines in the states?


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

jhngardner

I've worked a lot on car engines but must admit haven't touched a vertical shaft yet... 

Would there be specific things to look out for when opening up this engine? I took a look on amazon and seems I can get a gasket set for just over $40... hmm so maybe leave it closed for now... Was also hoping that this engine would already have removable bearings... but seems you need to replace the whole connecting rod... at also probably $50+ if you can find the right one...
Looks like I'll need gasket set 495868 for the engine... 
Engine model 422707 and type 1214 01
Connecting rod 394306
can't find the 397158 undersize rod... but then that would amount to $150 odd just for gaskets and rods....

Hmm so maybe if there's a lot wrong with the engine I should maybe get it running and sell it again...


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

Didn't get to running the engine again this evening... went out for dinner.... will see if I can get to it tomorrow night... 

Starting to think about it more and more to fix up the mower and sell it...
Starting to look like a deep pits where money can flow into if something goes wrong...


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

One more question... will it do any harm to the engine running it without the muffler? Might be easier to hear which side is missing with it off..

Picking up a new ignition switch and fuel valve this afternoon. Decided it's good enough to stick with the original ignition switch that it came out with...

Next will be taking photo's and digitising stickers before the sanding of panels begin. I want to try and get as close to possible to original stickers that's currently on the machine.


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

So picked up the valve, the ignition switches are on order so will wait a while for that... got a new key in the meantime to make the one work that's currently there.

I'm am however super stoked after finding out prices for belts. I've previously heard horror stories of MTD belt prices from small dealers/lawnmower shops...
Got some prices from the agents and looks like all the belts, that the 2 belts for the deck and the 2 drive train belts, will work out at R1100 for all 4... that's about $72 currently... about $22 for the long ones and $14 for the shorter ones. bearings and idler pulleys also freely available from the mtd agents at around $2 - $4 per bearing. Will put together a list for engine parts in a worst case scenario where I have to overhaul the engine to get an idea of engine part prices...

anyway just a rather useless or small update.
Will see about the issue of the one cylinder missing a bit and checking the alternator this weekend...
Wil report over the weekend or monday.


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## WillemT (May 9, 2016)

Doesn't look like my last post came through.
Didn't get much time to work on the tractor lately... so just doing some small things after work when I get some time.

Disassembled the deck. Will replace all spindle bearings and the on idler. I will not replace the idler itself, only the bearing.. I know that these are made not to be take apart... well I'll replace the bearing in the metal one. Drilled out the rivets to get to the bearing. Will rivet or bolt it back when done... I can get a bearing for less than $3 and a new idler here goes for about $20... 

The deck shell looks fantastic. There is some rust on it but only surface rust underneath the paint. No deep rust and the low spots where they usually rust through is still clean with paint well intact...

a few photo's of the deck. Have since sprayed it down with the high pressure cleaner... will start sanding and painting soon...

I did twist off one bolt in the one spindle housing... that specidic one was corroded quite badly. I'm not going to replace housings at this time. Drilled out the broken off bolt and will retap... The one housing has a bit of a crack close to the one bolt hole but not cracked through so will still use...
Thinking of having the housings sandblasted and painted to stop corrosion, but it will depend on the cost.

















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