# Attachments



## Tom4143 (10 mo ago)

No, I am not a farmer, just an old man living on three acres doing a little gardening. I just purchased my first tractor, a 1944 2N. Now it is time to get some attachments and go to work. What works best on this little machine. I am considering a tiller but not sure if the PTO can handle the strain. Would a 2-bottom plow work better? Also, a brush hog is on the list. Can the machine handle a five foot? Do you have any advise for a foolish old man?


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Good Morning Tom, welcome to the tractor forum.

One thing you are dealing with is a tractor that is nearly 80 years old. We don't know its condition or capability. Back in the day when I was young, we used a 2-bottom plow and a disc harrow. So, we know that will work, and the tractor should be capable of pulling these. One thing I would recommend is that you sprinkle the garden area the day before plowing to moisten and soften the soil. 

Your lift has to be capable of lifting these items.

The old Ford N tractors are not geared for a tiller. 1st gear would pull the rototiller too quickly to work the soil properly. 

Your 2N can probably handle a 5 ft brush hog, as long as you can lift it and keep the field trimmed frequently.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

And you would want to invest in an overrunning clutch if you are going to be using a brush hog type machine.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Welcome Tom.
My first tractor was also a 2N that I inherited from my father. It ran real good so I didnt have to fix much on it.
My plan was to put in some deer plots with it. So I bought a 2-14" Dearborn plow. The tractor just struggled and spun the tires. So I bought a set of rear wheel weights to put on it - 225 lbs per side.
That helped a lot but it still struggled to cut old sod in 1st gear in our clay loam soil.
Then I found a 1-16" Ferguson plow and that was the the ticket! 
It was a plowing fool.
Tractor handled the plow great and I could plow in 2nd gear which rolled the sod over better.
The Ns were supposedly a 2 plow tractor but that depends on your soil type and if you are trying to cut through old sod.
Now if you are going to plow you will need a disc harrow to cut up the furrows to make the seed bed.
Some folks want to measure a dìsc by the width.
I found it to be better to count the discs per axle.
There are usually 4 gangs on a disc. So 4 or maximum 5 discs per gang/axle will work good.
For a brush cut mower get a 5'. If you buy a finish mower buy a 6'.
Back blade 6'.
Forget a loader on an N except if at least Half of what you use the tractor for is loader work.
A loader makes a clumsy, hard to steer behemoth out of those nimble little Ns
If you need to lift a heavy item get a boom pole. For hauling tools, chainsaw, seed, fertilizer, etc get a rear scoop but for sure get one that is reversible.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

pogobill said:


> And you would want to invest in an overrunning clutch if you are going to be using a brush hog type machine.


I want to reinforce the importance of this!!!!! 

The ole Ford doesn't have "live" or "independent" PTO. It depends on tractor movement or trans in neutral and foot off clutch to turn the shaft. It's direct gear drive.

So if you have the brush cutter running at 540rpm speed and you clutch the tractor to stop the rotating mass will propel the tractor forward until the inertia is used up.

As Bill suggested, an overrunning clutch is a simple one way clutched device that slips on the tractor PTO shaft. Then the attachment PTO shaft connects to this clutch. It allows the implement to continue turning after you have stopped forward movement.

Here's an online example.









OVERRUNNING COUPLER FOR PTO, PTO OVER RUN CLUTCH, 1-1/8" FEMALE 1-3/8"


One Brand New Aftermarket Replacement Fits Ford Over Running Power Take Off (PTO) coupler . Fits the following Tractors: 2N, 8N, 9N, NAA, Jubilee.This is an upgrade that improves shaft size from 1 1/8" to the 1 3/8" standard Diameter Shaft. Overall length of the coupler is 6 3/4", this coupler...




www.reliableaftermarketparts.com


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## Tom4143 (10 mo ago)

BigT said:


> Good Morning Tom, welcome to the tractor forum.
> 
> One thing you are dealing with is a tractor that is nearly 80 years old. We don't know its condition or capability. Back in the day when I was young, we used a 2-bottom plow and a disc harrow. So, we know that will work, and the tractor should be capable of pulling these. One thing I would recommend is that you sprinkle the garden area the day before plowing to moisten and soften the soil.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Big T for the information. The tractor is ten years older than I am and we both need an easy retirement project. I was concerned that the PTO might not be able to handle at tiller, but did not consider that the tractor might be too fast for the tiller. You helped convince my wife that a plow would be a better idea for both these old units.


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## Tom4143 (10 mo ago)

Ultradog said:


> Welcome Tom.
> My first tractor was also a 2N that I inherited from my father. It ran real good so I didnt have to fix much on it.
> My plan was to put in some deer plots with it. So I bought a 2-14" Dearborn plow. The tractor just struggled and spun the tires. So I bought a set of rear wheel weights to put on it - 225 lbs per side.
> That helped a lot but it still struggled to cut old sod in 1st gear in our clay loam soil.
> ...


Your plow information was a big help. My soil has been plowed for centuries; however, lately no till has been the way for the farmers around me to go. Our soil consists of mostly heavy clay which does well for corn and beans. I like the idea of a 1-16" plow. The tractor and I cannot take too much strain. Thanks for the help.


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## Tom4143 (10 mo ago)

ovrszd said:


> I want to reinforce the importance of this!!!!!
> 
> The ole Ford doesn't have "live" or "independent" PTO. It depends on tractor movement or trans in neutral and foot off clutch to turn the shaft. It's direct gear drive.
> 
> ...


In studying this tractor, I have heard folks talk about an overrunning clutch. I had no idea what one looked like, how they worked or where to get one. Something else to add to my shopping list.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

I may be making things over simplified, but the Over Run attachment for the pto isn’t actually a clutch. It’s purpose is to keep spinning force directed ONE WAY from the pto to the attachment. It prevents the pto driven attachment from delivering rotational force back to the PTO. In short, when you stop the tractor the rotational force of attachment doesn’t push tractor forward. The older tractors had nothing to prevent this from occurring.

There are pto clutches which serve another purpose as the enable the rotational force from machine to attachment to SLIP should ya strike something with attachment that makes it stop suddenly. The Over Run will not accomplish that.

Get the Over Run for older tractor with gear drive pto as it’s a safety issue….then you still need shear bolts on attachemnt side i case ya whack a stump.

I have a live pto with internal clutch and still got an Over Run…mainly for length it provides but also for tractor pto protection.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

TX MX5200 said:


> I have a live pto with internal clutch and still got an Over Run…mainly for length it provides but also for tractor pto protection.


The over run will protect your internal PTO brake and extend it's life.

I always idle my tractor before disengaging the PTO for the same protection.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

The issue with a pto is when you chop the throttle with it engaged and the implement starts driving the pto from inertia. The over running clutch eliminates that entirely. Kubota's especially mine have marginal pto brakes. Easy to tell when it's failed too because the parasitic drag on the clutch will cause the stub to rotate constantly which really isn't a good thing. I properly working brake only allows you to rotate the stub (manually), 1/4 turn which is there so you can align the stub with the driven implement yoke. Shredders are notorious for over run. My disc bine as well as the round bailer have built in over running clutches. Most shredders don't. Not sure why, maybe it's a cost thing. The Kuhn Masterdrive rake I have also has one built in but it rarely freewheels. I look at a built in over running clutch as a value added thing and it saves your clutch brake. On kubota's at least, replacing the pack brake is an involved task as in splitting the tractor, something I don't want to do if I can avoid it. neither of mine (2002 and 2004) have ever been split and I don't see that happening either because both are hydraulic shuttles so no dry clutch in the bellhousing. Just a spring loaded damper plate to reduce drive line shock when changing directions.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Guys,
It is good to teach a new guy good safety habits but do remember ...
The _*ONLY *_ time you need to use an ORC is when you are running a brush hog type mower.
Other types of pto powered implements that you might use on an N, like a 3 point hay rake, a post hole digger, brush chipper, finish mower or pump for a log splitter do not create the inertia that will push you forward and don't need an ORC.
Also, for any type of non PTO tool such as a plow, disc, back blade, boom pole, yard rake, etc you don't need an ORC.
Again, the only time you need an ORC is if you are running a brush hog type mower.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

Ultradog said:


> Guys,
> It is good to teach a new guy good safety habits but do remember ...
> The _*ONLY *_ time you need to use an ORC is when you are running a brush hog type mower.
> Other types of pto powered implements that you might use on an N, like a 3 point hay rake, a post hole digger, brush chipper, finish mower or pump for a log splitter do not create the inertia that will push you forward and don't need an ORC.
> ...


Yep. And that was on his list.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

In response to post 12....

Not exactly. I'm sure they came about to negate an implement driving a tractor by inertia with a 'dead' pto, IOW one that isn't independent of the transmission. I haven't had one of those since I owned a 49 Farmall 40 plus years ago.

My tractors presently and for the last 30 years have all been independent PTO's where the pto is driven off the transmission main shaft through a set of gears to a internal driveshaft that goes through a clutch pack and that clutch pack controls the pto on and pto off function, entirely independent of what the transmission is doing. The inertia of a rotating implement can in no way impact what the transmission is doing, hence the name 'Independent PTO'.

In my case, the addition of an ORC eliminates the inertia run on of any implement where the implement can continue to rotate after the independent pto is disengaged and that run on can adversely impact the clutch brake built into the independent clutch pack. Kubota's especially have weak clutch brakes so the run on of an implement can destroy the pto brake quickly, but that applies to any independent pto with a built in brake and they all have them. Some are more robust than others.

That can apply to any rotating implement, not just a brush hog or a shredder. It can apply to a stubble beater like a rotary Loftness or a flail type shredder, so long as the rotating mass has no internal braking ability and the mass continues to keep rotating after the pto drive is disengaged. Like my disc bine. When running at speed, if you chop the throttle or disengage the pto drive, it keeps 'right on trucking' because of the inertia of the moving parts will 'coast' down much slower than the pto shaft is actually rotating at. Same thing applies to my round bailer. When running at rated rpm, it takes a bit of time to slow down to the speed the stub is rotating at, should I chop the throttle or disengage the pto. My disc bine has a built in ORC, my round bailer don't and neither does either of my brush hogs. My rotary rake has one built in and so does my tedder.

I use the ORC only to negate excessive wear on the pto clutch brake. For me, it has nothing to do with driving the tractor forward through the transmission because mine is an independent, live pto.

If I owned an older tractor before live independent pto became standard, I'd have one on the pto stub at all times just to mitigate the chance of the implement pushing the tractor forward unexpectedly.

Most of them are built for tractors with less than 50 pto horsepower. Mine have a lot more than 50 so it was imperative for me to find a high input one and I did. Mine is substantially larger than most and it's rated up to 130 pto input horsepower and of course cost substantially more as well. Size matters in this case.

I might add that brush chippers like the ones sold under the Wood Max name also have substantial inertia driven mass and most don'[t come with an ORC. If you use one of those (contrary to post 12) you should be using an ORC on the stub even if it's an independent pto because you are right back at wearing the clutch brake out before it's time. That heavy internal flywheel inside the chipper has substantial rotating mass that can wear out a clutch brake before it's time or drive a non independent tractor forward unexpectedly if it's in gear.

The one thing to keep in mind (at least with Kubota's is).... The only way to access the clutch pack to renew the plates is to split the unit. You cannot access it from the backside. You can see it if you remove the the rear pto cover and gear train but you cannot remove it. The only way to remove it is out the front of the transmission case. I prefer not to do that if I don't have to so the ORC is a good substitute for me at least.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

The ORC clutch worked well…of course it only had to work once as I started it up, eased up to 540 pto speed and stayed there for 5 hours until I was done…when I finished, I idled slowly idled it down and then turned PTO off and the ORC kicked in as the PTO stopped…perfect!

The protection is a bonus and the length solved the hookup issue created by the quick hitch. I really could use a 6’ or 7’ shredder, but I will nurse this old 5’ Ford along as long as it’s doing the job…I only shred 2 times a year so the ungodly prices for shredders makes a new one a want and not a need.

I have to do some repairs to the deck and weld on some studs for the inspection plate cover as they twisted off this morning. I also have a second set of sharpened blades to put on as they’ve been sitting for 20 years…ones on there are fine but might as well swap em out…I have zero rocks or stumps and all it cuts is grass…biggest issue is ant mounds. They’re all flat now, so got to get em killed off. Then plan to give them another hit with the straight blade.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

TX MX5200 said:


> The ORC clutch worked well…of course it only had to work once as I started it up, eased up to 540 pto speed and stayed there for 5 hours until I was done…when I finished, I idled slowly idled it down and then turned PTO off and the ORC kicked in as the PTO stopped…perfect!
> 
> *They work well. I have 2 of the higher pto horsepower ones, I keep one on each tractor stub. Just keep the pawl clutch greased. You can disengage the pto at rated rpm and listen to it sing too. The stub won't turn but the driven end will. I tend to idle mine down as well but if an emergency arises, the ORC saves your clutch brake.*
> 
> ...


I see you have the center of the hood fuel filler. Did your tractor come with a drop in fuel strainer? The older Kubota's did and for some reason they quit using them. I added one to each of my M's, keeps the larger 'junk' out of the fuel tanks like grass and leaves and bugs while you fill it. Kubota part number is: 35450-41060 and I believe they are less than 10 bucks each. The drop in the filler neck and come with an expansion ring which I discarded. I believe they will also fit other non Kubota models as well. Kind of like the bucket level indicator, All Kubota's had them and then they didn't.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Thanks and no I don’t have the filler screen but will get one…I also want to add to the grill guard as it is not setup to protect the grill with the flat bars.

I also want to come up with a chain point that I can attach to the front where you would hang weight plates. I don’t like idea of chaining around axles and chain damaging steering components. I use the drawbar on rear and have used heavy duty straps thru loader tube, but that’s not legal here. Ive got to have 4 chains on tractor and strap on loader is permitted.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

My M's both came with the suitcase weight rail standard from the factory but I've never used it.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

SidecarFlip said:


> My M's both came with the suitcase weight rail standard from the factory but I've never used it.


My MX did too and will never use it…figured if I could fashion some HD rings to it that would be perfect tie down for front of tractor.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

TX MX5200 said:


> My MX did too and will never use it…figured if I could fashion some HD rings to it that would be perfect tie down for front of tractor.


I welded a D ring to the front of my Kubota weight bracket. I've never used it. But handy if I needed to.

I also extended, reinforced my grill guard. I'm in the brush a lot. 

My computer has a cold so it won't let me access those pics. I'll get some in a day or two and post them....


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I am curious how this thread about a man's N Series Ford got hijacked into what it has become.
If you reread my first post I think it was pretty clear that I was giving advice to the OP and not to those with later tractors.
Ns do not have independent pto. They have transmission pto. That is what makes using an orc while brush hogging essential.
I do understand what independent pto is. I have 2 tractors with it. I also have one with live pto.
And yes, a puny little pto brake is not designed to stop the immense inertia of a rotary mower. But a rotary mower Can Not push an independent pto tractor forward like it will a transmission pto tractor.
Using an orc on a tractor with IPTO may be prudent from a maintence perspective but it has Nothing to do with safety like it does on an N series Ford.
Also, 
Yes a wood chipper does have a lot inertia. But I can't think of an occasion where a tractor would be driven while the chipper is being used. 
Yes, on an Ipto tractor a chipper would wear the little brake pad out on shut down but a chipper would not affect a transmission pto N Series at all.
Lastly, I don't see how all this talk about ipto is helpful to the OP. It is apt to be confusing. He doesn't have it so why even bring it up. If he asks about ipto explain it then.
He needs an orc when brush hogging. That's it.
And hijacking his thread to talk to brag about the features (fuel screens?) in your late model tractors is not helpful either.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Ultradog said:


> I am curious how this thread about a man's N Series Ford got hijacked into what it has become.
> If you reread my first post I think it was pretty clear that I was giving advice to the OP and not to those with later tractors.
> Ns do not have independent pto. They have transmission pto. That is what makes using an orc while brush hogging essential.
> I do understand what independent pto is. I have 2 tractors with it. I also have one with live pto.
> ...


Its tractor talk…and the screen info would be helpful too, especially on a 2n now burning ethanol from cans. Nobody bragging that I see….the posters questions were answered….get an over run clutch or get pushed over a cliff and risk death. Get it and leave it on as all with gear drive PTO have done. Doesn’t matter what attachment you use with those models…get the 48 dollar over run clutch.

The topic also extends to those with newer model tractors to help protect equipment…his additional query regarding shredder…yes it will handle a 5’ cutter, but that’s the limit….of course all is irrelevant if the motor doesn’t rev to generate pto rpm’s. Also, the overall condition of unit is relevant but wasn’t the question….condition of 3pt rig, hydraulics to lift the attachment, circulation of cooling system to prevent over heating at high rpm and on and on.

The plow question is impossible to answer as it’s dependent on soil your dropping it into. The 2n and even later NAA wouldn’t handle a single buster plow here…with the gumbo, the tractor would stall, backflip or bust apart….of course in sandy soul it would handle the double.

I can’t delete my post but if someone can…erase em…wasn’t my intention to steal anyones thunder or attention to their responses .


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

TX MX5000,

So the topic becomes whatever you decide it is mid way through the thread. And the facts become whatever a couple of you decide they are.
Got it.
I can tell you this, a $48 orc will buy you one of this style. Note the 2 zerks on it. You have to remove those zerks then drive a roll pin out to remove it. Which no one ever bothers to do. So they have this hazardous device always spinning just to use the 3 point. Because on an N the hydraulic pump is run by the pto. So to plow and disc or back blade you have this thing spinning and you don't need it. And you can't convieniently cover it.
Then there is the issue of needing to shorten the drive shaft on the mower because any orc makes it too long. Or buy a quick hitch - which costs what? and puts the mower even farther back and lightens your little N's front end even more.
So you shorten all your drive shafts to fit and then buy a newer tractor with live or independent pto which doesn't need an orc and you get to replace your drive shafts.
I say we give the new man advice that pertains to his tractor and leave the confusing talk for other threads. A tractor with trans pto needs an orc for bush hogging and nothing else. If you never bush hog you will never need an orc.
P.S.
On my tractors with independent pto I simply back the mower into some thick stuff when I shut it down.
That stops the mower so I do not need an orc.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Getting back to the original question, I like Ultradog's idea of a single bottom plow for small acreage. I forgot that my father had a single bottom plow (I never used it). With a double-bottom plow, it was a normal routine in some fields to brake the spinning wheel and pick the plow up a bit if necessary and keep on going. Also, the 8N I used had heavy weights on the rear wheels and it had a significant advantage over a 2N.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Ultradog said:


> TX MX5000,
> 
> So the topic becomes whatever you decide it is mid way through the thread. And the facts become whatever a couple of you decide they are.
> Got it.
> ...


Simple solution, if original poster sells the 2n and gets a newer machine…he can remove the 48 dollar ORC and push it on the new tractor…that way all the shortened drive shafts will still be useable. Also. If you don’t have the tools to cut off a square piece of 1” steel you can invest in a 19 dollar grinder/cutoff tool from harbor freight bud cut em off.

the man is going to be shredding so he needs it…when he uses his plow he doesn’t but there’s no need to remove the ORC. If not using the 3point hitch, there’s no need to remove the 3pt hitch setup either. I also shred with out removing the front end loader even though I’m not using the FEL.
Yea we all recognize your point that you don’t use the ORC for a box blade, but I’m thinking the poster knows that revelation.

Got It

There’s also no need to make same point over and over and over again.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Ultradog said:


> TX MX5000,
> 
> So the topic becomes whatever you decide it is mid way through the thread. And the facts become whatever a couple of you decide they are.
> Got it.
> ...


Looks to me like one of those TSC Weasler specials. I much prefer the collared ORC's myself. Much easier to deal with far as installing and removing. Don't see any additional 'hazard' especially if you cover the business end with a stub cover like I always do. I like my stubs to stay clean and lubricated at all times. Makes for much easier attachment and removal of a driven pto shaft.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

"Simple solution, if original poster sells the 2n and gets a newer machine..."

First scare the OP with all this talk about his tractor has transmission pto and he must get an ORC or he will surely die.
Next, start confusing him with talk about how Your tractor has independent pto which is wholly unrelated to what he has and to this thread.
Then start bragging about all the other features your tractor has.
Lastly, tell the man he should sell his new tractor and get a better one.
Maybe this is considered helpful...

Tom4143
You have a bit to learn but it is all mostly fun, seat of the pants sort of stuff.
You need an ORC if you use a bush hog style mower but not for anything else.
I recommend you buy the push button type like in the photo for its easy on, easy off feature.
Enjoy your tractor. Millions of people have done billions of hours of useful work with those simple, useful little Fords.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

Just get the Over Run Clutch as it is MUCH NEEDED for the old style tractors as it is a safety issue. FYI, i had a 1953 Ford NAA and used it for 20 years….my fancy new 8 year old tractor has all the fancy equipment mentioned of a base level standard tractor and don’t see that as bragging. 

The simple truth is that having an ORC is needed if your going to shred with that machine…you also can leave the ORC on if using other pto driven attachments, just may need to trim shaft lengths or you can get a quick hitch to make life simplistic. The added length the quick hitch provides matches up perfect with the added length the ORC adds.

Another tip from someone who ran a similar model Ford tractor for 20 years, keep those hands on outside of steering wheel….if ya hit a rock or drop a front wheel into a hole, that steering wheel will jerk and can get the fingers.

That’s not bragging…that’s reality.

I don’t recall anyone saying to sell and buy new….I recall saying if you change tractors and had to alter drive shaft lengths to accommodate the ORC…your implements are not useless as implied by someone else and you would NOT need to buy new drive shafts as implied. All ya would need to do is use the same ORC on the newer model should you ever get one.

I’m running the same 40 year old shredder I used on my old Ford on my new to me 8 year old tractor. It required NO new drive shaft as implied.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Additionally... I have one for each of my M9's (with independent PTO's) and I usually leave them on unless I'm running my disc bine which has one built into the driveline. When not on they are in the tractor tool box. Like I stated many posts ago, I run them because the Kubota clutch brake is somewhat weak and brake plate replacement is very involved as in splitting the unit, not something I desire doing. I purposely bought mine with hydraulic shuttles just to eliminate the dry clutch which would at some point require replacement. No dry clutch eliminates that issue for me.


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## TX MX5200 (May 12, 2020)

When ya get that Over Run “Clutch” (more of a rachet), which you do need with that tractor….I cut some pieces of Air Condition insulation, which is a neoprene type. I used a short piece to cover the pto spline between the ORC and tractor and another piece to slide on exposed spline when not in use. This keeps the splines clean, making shaft connection much easier. No need to spend more money on spline covers.

I keep splines coated with marine grease I use on my boat prop shaft, but grease will collect dirt if exposed.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

All it is, is a one way ratchet. 'Clutch' is a misnomer.... My Kubota dealer always seems to have the plastic slip over spline covers around so I get them from him, no charge. Only ever got 2. I think when a customer orders a new tractor with a backhoe on it, the cover winds up in a bin in the shop.... I put a couple pumps of grease in the cover, so when I slip it on, it greases the splines.


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## Vigo (Oct 8, 2021)

They are commonly called overrunning clutches in other applications. It can slip or grab, so.. it's a clutch. So is a ratchet, if you want to get technical. I wouldn't get caught up on the semantics of it. Some people call it a sprag. Doesn't really matter as long as one knows what it does and doesn't do.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Click, click, click, click, click.....


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## Vanman08 (Aug 1, 2020)

Unlike most who have posted in this thread I have an N. My Grand Father bought it in 1949 when it was a year old. My Dad gave it to me a few years ago. I have a two bottom plow and have used it since I was 14 plowing gardens in town to make some spending money. It works in the soil here but I can see where a single bottom would work better in some heavier soils.

Get an over run clutch and just leave it on.

My Dad bought a Woods five foot brush hog for it over 30 years ago. It was in new condition when he gave it to me to use with my B414 I inherited from my Father In Law. It was in excellent condition because it was too big and heavy for the 8N. He ended up using a much lighter four foot brush hog. Same thing with the 6 foot Woods finish mower he gave me. It was too heavy and the 8N just does not have enough power for it.

That and the lift on most of the N tractors is a little weak. Even when they were not old and worn they were not very strong. Most will leak down when you depress the clutch or the engine is not running. Mine does.

I use the 8N with the two bottom plow and a post hole digger. 

If yours has not been converted to 12 volts it would be a good idea to do so.

These little N tractors will still be running and working long after most of the newer tractors are in junk yards.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

In retrospect, I should have kept the 49 Farmall A I had as my first tractor. It wasn't all that good for much but it was always fun to play with. Still have the single bottom plow it came with. I made it into a mailbox stand.


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## Tom4143 (10 mo ago)

Ultradog said:


> TX MX5000,
> 
> So the topic becomes whatever you decide it is mid way through the thread. And the facts become whatever a couple of you decide they are.
> Got it.
> ...


Thanks, that was all getting a little confusing.


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## Tom4143 (10 mo ago)

Ultradog said:


> "Simple solution, if original poster sells the 2n and gets a newer machine..."
> 
> First scare the OP with all this talk about his tractor has transmission pto and he must get an ORC or he will surely die.
> Next, start confusing him with talk about how Your tractor has independent pto which is wholly unrelated to what he has and to this thread.
> ...


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## Tom4143 (10 mo ago)

I could not justify a $20,000 tractor to work this three-acre place for the few years I have left in me and the machine. This N and most of the comments on this site has been fun and informative. I am sure I will have many more questions as I go along.


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## ovrszd (12 mo ago)

I learn the most when I confess that I don't know and then openly listen.


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

ovrszd said:


> I learn the most when I confess that I don't know and then openly listen.


I rare trait today... Listening to sensible input.


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## Vigo (Oct 8, 2021)

ovrszd said:


> I learn the most when I confess that I don't know and then openly listen.


One of my favorite sayings is:

"The greatest barrier to learning is knowing."

😂


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

The optional Howard Trans will allow for Tiller use. Not to be confused with one of the Sherman units.
Sherman is useless for pto work like Tiller Use. Sherman gears down pto speed and drive speed. Howard maintains factory PTO speed but slows Drive speed.

Finding and installing one is a good size project.

Your better off with a couple diferent sized Discs and several passes .

On an 8 you can get shorter wheels/tires....on your 2 or a 9 you get what you have or bigger.


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