# Solution To The 4000 Ten Series Battery Corrosion Problem



## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I checked my battery compartment a several weeks ago and inspite of my best efforts of soaking EVERYTHING in heavy baking soda solution, modifying the battery caps with the one piece cap and vent tube, and coating EVERYTHING with a GENEROUS coating of corrosion preservative spray after carefully cleaning and repainting everything in the battery compartment that needed it; my transmission oil cooler radiator and battery hold down hardware, as well as positive battery cable terminal were HEAVILY corroded; especially the trans. oil cooler radiator. What a poor design! And man was I PO'd!!!! :argh: #[email protected]$: 

I decided I was going to find a sealed AGM type battery that fit or make one fit! I had a VERY informative talk with Larry at Batterystuff dot com. and below is the battery that he located for me and is shipping me for $139 including shipping. 

I will post the follow up below as to how this battery fits as well as its performance so this post is not so long. With 600 cold cranking amps; it should be more than adequate to start my 4410 and FINALLY do away with the corrosion caused by the inevitable release of hydrogen sulfide into the battery compartment and radiator area. 


SVR 50-12 Sealed AGM Battery


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

I remember that you had been fighting that problem since you had that machine.....wasn't there supposed to be a nifty modification that would solve that corrosion problem? Was that the modified vent caps or something? I recall hearing about that but I guess it too didn't work...That really sucks...for all practical purposes since it is a definite design flaw, JD should be replacing your battery units for free IMHO.

:tractorsm


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Just a heads up for anyone considering ordering the battery I posted a link to above. I neglected to mention that the battery is the correct size dimensionally but for some odd reason did not have the hold down lugs on the sides of the battery as shown in the picture. 

The owner of Battery Stuff dot come offered refund me for the battery and shipping but I decided to see if I could make a small modification to make this battery work. The problem is the battery shown in the picture has hold down lugs and the battery I was shipped did nothave the hold down lugs. Evidently the manufacturer discontinued manufacturing this model battery with the hold down lugs. 

When checked back with MK who is the manufacturer of this battery and they told me that the picture of the battery shown is out of date and incorrect. These batteries DO NOT come with the hold down lugs on the sides as shown in the picture. I looked int if I could get a steel hold down bracket fabricated that I can put across the battery top and runs down the sides about an inch or two short of the OEM battery hold down nut plates. The braket allowed meto use the OEM bolts and nut plates to secure the battery in place. 

With the battery installed now. (See Below Pic) 

<img src="http://www.tractorforum.com/attachment.php?s=&postid=83153
">

A friend fabricated a battery hold down strap out of 1" wide x 1/8" thick strap iron. The strap basically run from about 3" from the bottom sides of the battery across the top and is heavily wrapped in "100 mph tape" to prevent the iron strap from shorting out the battery. I am going to add a piece of radiator hose or similar hose which has been split down the middle as added insurance. The iron strap has tabs or "ears" that are belt at right angle so the strap portion running down the sides of the battery and the tabs are drilled out and slightly elongated to allow the OEM battery hold down bolt to be utilized. 

I will post more pics and post a follow up below to let everyone who is interested know how this mod works out. The battery starts the engine a bit easier than the OEM battery but after nearly 4 years, I think the Strong Box OEM battery is getting tired. Hopefully this will eliminate the outgassing & corrosion problem for good!


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Thanks so much for the info, Chief...You should consider marketing that solution to JD's repair department... :tractorsm


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Here are some more pictures or the battery install. Just to give you an idea of how the battery strap is attached.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

A view of the cross section of the battery compartment floor and the OEM hold down bolts in the floor nut plates. I double nutted the OEM hold down bolts to prevent them from loosening.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

The white powdery deposites are not corrosion. It is the dried heavy baking soda solution I washed the entire area down in to neutralize the acid corrosion.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

So far, I have put a little over 20 hours on this battery and set up without any problems. Seems to be working well. :thumbsup: This problem seems to be particularly prone to the John Deere 4000 series tractors so you may want to pull out your battery and take a looksee to inspect for any corrosion problems. This would not be a bad idea for any tractor with the battery mounted directly in front of the radiator.


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## ducati996 (Dec 27, 2003)

I had a identical problem with my smaller JD 4100, I jumped on it to replace it with an Optima 51....I know Chief you had to search all over for something that would fit and work....not sure why JD would even supply liquid (acid) batteries any more on their Sub compact an larger lines - its all too common on these machines


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## ducati996 (Dec 27, 2003)

Looking at this post and at my New 2520 that has a 22NF size battery - I wondering how long will I let this thing hang over my head? Not long if I can find a 22NF sized Optima battery- if they exist.

The battery that deere supplies just looks like a problem - vented individual caps. Not sure why they dont go with all sealed batteries....Again these may work fine - but they may not, and Im not taking any chances.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I am still using this new battery and it has provided great service and no battery acid corrosion to date. Wish I had changed mine out much sooner.


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## DEERE180 (Jun 20, 2006)

Chief: I find it strange that you would have such corrosion buildup - liquid unsealed battery or not. Perhaps the Deere is overcharging the battery? That would explain the problem, Besides it is next to the hot radiator. Perhaps having a heat shield around the battery might also solve the problem. BTW: The price for your sealed battery seems way out of line! Sounds like a basic design flaw.


Ducati:
As far as the 22NF battery goes - those seem to be quite "small" from a acapacity point of view. See if you can find a real auto battery that would fit in there. Besdies you could save more than 1/2 on the price. Good luck!


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

DEERE180,

I agree with your comments. At first I thought the battery was being overcharged as well. The problem is that the battery compartment and mount pad are extremely confined and do not allow for much if any heat shielding. In fact the battery sets directly up against the powersteering/transmission oil cooler. The hyd. oil can get very hot, especially in the summer heat. The heat is directly transfered to the battery and as a result it outgasses more than a typical battery. The battery gasses get drawn into the oil cooler and radiator. Indeed and basic design flaw. This is sore spot with MANY Deere owners with this battery installation setup. This battery installation I came up with is not ideal but it works. I may try and see if I can shoe horn an aluminum heat shield between the battery and oil cooler later on. Good suggestion!


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## ducati996 (Dec 27, 2003)

> _
> Ducati:
> As far as the 22NF battery goes - those seem to be quite "small" from a acapacity point of view. See if you can find a real auto battery that would fit in there. Besdies you could save more than 1/2 on the price. Good luck! [/B]_


_ 

Its a 500 cca battery - they offer the same on the 3720 series as well...my Optima on my 4100 was a 500 cca group 51 - I should have swiched it but not enough time_


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Here is the latest on a long term follow up and evaluation of this modification. 

I have put over 125 hours on my 4410 in the past 2 months and the battery compartment as well as the battery all look the same as the picture above. 

On an editorial note, it is a shame and speaks poorly for John Deere that they have not upgraded to a sealed battery on their newer model tractors nor have they recalled the 4000 and 4000 Ten series tractors to replace these batteries or even offer a discounted OEM sealed battery for their customers.  

This is a VERY simple solution but the cost of the sealed battery as compared to the OEM battery; the cost is almost double but well worth it for peace of mind and longevity of the equipment in my opinion.


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## ddigdeere (May 9, 2009)

*battery & radiator replacement*

Hi - I am new to this forum and already have used info from it to help understand my tractor better.
What advice do you have to get the Deere dealer to pay for the cost of a new radiator and sealed battery?
Took the Radiator out and having it checked but it looked pretty rusty down on the bottom. 
Thanks
Domenico


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