# JD 2210, about 10 yrs old, very low usage...won't start



## susan canaday (Jul 23, 2018)

So my little tractor has a problem. I think it's called a 'no crank situation.' Tractor has been very little trouble over the years and gotten moderate use. It has under 500 hours on it. It is usually stored indoors. I use it for mowing grass, things like that. Nothing heavy. It has a bucket, a mowing deck and a T-4 rake on the back. I'm generally careful and don't overload it.

The other day I started it with no trouble, drove it for a few minutes, just from the barn to the garage. My friend put some diesel in it for me, I drove it 30 seconds or a minute or so, to a small, short lane I wanted to rake a little so I could seed it. I turned tractor off and got off to adjust the pins on the rake.

And could not start it back up. I would hear a very faint click when I turned the key, see lights on the dash, but it would not crank the engine.

It was not even like it tried to crank at all, not even a tiny bit, not even once, so I suspected a safety switch. I checked the pto switch, the hydrostatic shift to be sure it was in neutral, made sure the mowing deck was not on. No, that all checked out fine. Seat safety switch? I just replaced that some months ago, and it looked fine.

So naturally I looked at the battery, which is fairly new - 2 yrs, I think. I noticed the ground cable on the battery had a tiny hair line crack in the clamp that secures it to the battery post, and that its bolt was missing. Cleaned the battery and surrounding area all up, tried to secure the negative clamp temporarily with a tie wrap til I could find a bolt. Not yet convinced that's the trouble, though. Cable looks fine along its length and is securely clamped on the other end to the frame of the tractor. And even as it is, it's fairly tight on the post.

Ordered a replacement cable. Shop got the wrong one. Mechanic said he'd make me one, still haven't heard back, it should take a few minutes to make. Shop guy advised me to jump it from a car. I tried, but the engine would not crank.

In my fertile imagination, I think that if it won't crank because the battery was poorly grounded, the jump cable being clamped to the frame would make up for that. But it would not start. Would not even crank, not even once. We jumped it from a compact car.

I thought of a number of possibilities - the solenoid on the starter is bad, the starter is bad, a safety switch is bad. I don't know how to narrow it down. I guess I go out and buy a volt meter? What do I do next?

I really need to try and do it myself. The local shop charges a ton for any work and I'm not flush with cash.


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## Guest (Jul 23, 2018)

Hello and welcome to the Tractor Forum. You don't say where you applied the hot side of your jumper cable when you tried the jump start, and assuming you had a good ground on the tractor and jumping vehicle connections were good and vehicle running. I suggest you do get a reasonably priced multimeter. Something in the $25 range should do nicely, perhaps with alligator clip leads as well as probe tips. A fully charged battery should have 13.4 volts or so available, alternator should put out that much also when charging. When you tried starting without the jump, did the lights dim a bit? With ignition off the multimeter can check that safetys are closing also. I wonder if it will start once cooled off? Don't expect much from your tie wrap connection though. Most auto parts stores can and will test your battery, alternator and starter for you...call first! Having these tested will eliminate a lot. Batteries will fail due to heat or cold, sometimes sooner than later. Again welcome to the forum. One of the better mechanics on here will notice this soon.


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## susan canaday (Jul 23, 2018)

I tried to start it many times after that over the next couple days. Same response. No crank.

As far as the lights dimming a little when I turned the key, yes, a little, and the needle drifted downward slowly as well.


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## Guest (Jul 23, 2018)

where are you putting the hot jumper cable when you tried to jump start?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Repair or replace the ground cable first. You must have clean, tight battery connections. Put a charger on the battery. It may be a defective safety switch. To bypass the safety switches, jumper a screwdriver between the positive battery cable connection on the starter solenoid and the small wire with the spade connection on the starter solenoid.


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## susan canaday (Jul 23, 2018)

Graysonr said:


> where are you putting the hot jumper cable when you tried to jump start?


I'm not that experienced. Which end? The tractor or the car? My friend hooked it up for me, he said the clamps on the tractor end went on the positive post of the tractor battery and a ground - the frame, in this case. Is that right?


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## susan canaday (Jul 23, 2018)

sixbales said:


> Repair or replace the ground cable first. You must have clean, tight battery connections. Put a charger on the battery. It may be a defective safety switch. To bypass the safety switches, jumper a screwdriver between the positive battery cable connection on the starter solenoid and the small wire with the spade connection on the starter solenoid.


Thank you. 

Jumper a screw driver? I don't understand.

I'm hoping to get the battery cable tomorrow. Everything is very clean, cleaned up the battery posts, clamps etc with baking soda, wire brush, emery paper(if that's the right term).


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Use the metal blade of the screwdriver to make a circuit between the big wire (cable) connection and the little spade wire connection on the starter solenoid. It should crank immediately, thus proving the starter is OK. Fix the battery cable first and make sure the battery is charged.

If it cranks, the most likely culprit is a defective safety switch.

PS: Make sure the transmission is in neutral with the brakes set when you jumper the solenoid. The engine will likely start and you don't want to get run over...


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## susan canaday (Jul 23, 2018)

sixbales said:


> Use the metal blade of the screwdriver to make a circuit between the big wire (cable) connection and the little spade wire connection on the starter solenoid. It should crank immediately, thus proving the starter is OK. Fix the battery cable first and make sure the battery is charged.


Got it, thanks.


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## susan canaday (Jul 23, 2018)

No, that wasn't it. The tractor still won't start. The mechanic 'made' me a cable and it's too long, I will shorten it once I get the non-crank issue diagnosed.

I'm off to buy a volt meter so I can test the different parts. 

I don't understand how to jump the starter with a screw driver. I can't get a screw driver to touch both things you described.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

You can use a plier to jump the terminals if necessary.....make sure the transmission is in neutral with the brake set so you don't get run over.


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## susan canaday (Jul 23, 2018)

My volt meter says the battery is very good. I had to spend some hours working on my chain saw....trying to get back to tractor....

there are rubber covers over all the connections to the starter solenoid, I was trying to stick the multimeter probe in there...


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

don't like to jump in but have a look at this solenoid, yours may be like this.
"A" post is battery supply
"B" spade is starter switch connection
"C" post is power supply through solenoid to starter when solenoid is activated. 

Sixbales wants you to place the screw driver onto the starter spade "B" and touch Post "A" to make a circuit so this will engage the starter motor, be aware that when you bridge across the two contacts, there could be a heavy arc, so make sure you place the screw driver onto the spade first and then slide to the "A" post, that way the arc wont damage the spade.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

They make a "tool" to do the EXACT same thing but w/ no arcing..
Its called a "remote starter button" it has 2 alligator clips & a push button..
1 goes on term. A & 1 goes on term. B.. Then you push the button..
They have long cords on them so you can stand back away from the wheels..
A "cheap" one costs 5.00 at the auto parts store or flee market..
But us "experienced folks" {Lol} just pick up a screwdriver.. or a pair of pliers, if theres a plastic bridge between the terminals..
Google it..


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## susan canaday (Jul 23, 2018)

Aha. You guys are geniuses, thanks. Will try it today.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

I have a buddy like that Bales.. first thing he does when he gets a new, used car is "punch out" the key switch.. no keys to keep track of.. Lol


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## deerhide (Oct 20, 2016)

susan canaday said:


> Aha. You guys are geniuses, thanks. Will try it today.


There will likely be a 'spark' so don't be alarmed!


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## Oldman11 (Jul 20, 2018)

Look on the left side of tractor and there is a main fuse that may be out. The fuse is made in the main line from battery to starter,that’s what happened to mine.


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