# Craftsman DYT 400 won't start



## curlybandit (Dec 1, 2014)

Hey everyone.

I recently bought a used 2004 Craftsman DYT 4000 (944.604110) with just over 200 operating hours on it. It's in spectacular condition and was running perfectly up until this afternoon. It has an 18.5 hp Briggs and Stratton motor.

Since buying it a month ago, I haven't had an opportunity to mow my lawn with it yet and it's only been ridden a handful of times to move it around. This afternoon I was moving it from the backyard to the garage to prepare it for storage and hopped off the seat to move something in the way. As expected the mower turned off because of the seat kill switch. I hopped back on and tried to turn over the mower but nothing happened other than a small "click". 

I made several attempt to turn it over but again just a small click. If I keep the key forward the click sound seems to come from where the volt meter and hour counter are. It happens every few seconds. Occasionally if I try to turn it over I can hear a louder "clunk" sound which seems to be coming from under the mower. or motor. I also tried unplugging the seat kill switch and jumping it in case it was the switch but the same occurred. 

I tested the battery which was newly replaced and it reads 12.59 volts. 

Any idea what it may be?

Thanks.


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## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

Welcome... How did you test the battery? Do you have a means of "Load" testing the battery with a "carbon pile" load tester?

I'm not sure about trying to bypass the seat switch. I know on a 2003 GT Tractor, You can simply install a jumper wire to defeat the switch. At some point after 2003, The manufacturers wisened up to what we were doing and incorporated a more sophisticated system which is much harder to defeat.

As for the clicking, It may be your starter solenoid. How do the battery cable ends look? If you find a loose connection or corroded connection, It will starve the solenoid to the point it will just click when trying to engage it. If the battery is too low in cranking amps, You will have the same situation just as if the cables were loose or corroded.

The louder "clunk" sound from lower down may simply be the starter drive engaging or locked against the flywheel due to a low voltage situation. It sounds as if you had two conditions occur at the same time. When you left the operators seat, It grounded out the ignition system as it was designed to do and at the same time, Just plain dumb luck happened with the starting system...

Is the engine locked???

Let us know what you find...


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## curlybandit (Dec 1, 2014)

Hello ftorleans1.

Thanks for the welcome.

I tested the battery using a handheld mutlimeter. I don't have access to a carbon pile load tester.

The tractor is a 2004. I tried using a jumper wire. Not sure if it worked or not since it didn't start anyway.

The battery is new and the cables look clean. The battery is rated at slightly greater cranking amps that the manufacturer specifications for this mower. Cold-cranking amps is listed at 230 by Craftsman. I believe the batter is 250 (I'd have to check to make sure).

How can I test if the engine is locked?

I found some possible options for the difficulties I'm having online. It's unsettling the number of "Craftsman DYT 4000 won't start" hits there are in a Google search...

Thanks.


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## ftorleans1 (Jul 12, 2009)

The easiest way to tell if the engine is locked is to simply try turning it by hand at the air screen. As long as your attachment and drive system is not holding the engine, You should be able to place your hand on top of the engine at the air screen and try turning it back and forth.
You may also have a started bendix which is holding the starter drive gear against the flywheel. This would cause a no crank situation as the starter needs to be able to start spinning up before it engages the flywheel. If the bendix gear is meshed with the flywheel ring rear, The starter (in most cases) will never have enough torque to crank the engine.
As for all the goggle results, Don't let that dampen your spirits. With the access we have today with computers, Almost any mechanical equipment will yield tons of remarks from the masses. 

If your hour meter is working properly, You should have a lot of good running time left with your tractor. Basically, It's just broken in... If taken care of properly, You can expect 750 to 1000 hours of use with no major problems....... The most important is to keep the oil changed and to clean the cooling fins of any grass debris or the such. You will need to remove engine tin periodically to blow out all the cooling fins. Remember, Air cooled engines Won't take the heat punishment that a liquid cooled engine can. Keeping an air cooled engine as cool as possible is the key to the longevity of it.

As for the battery, If it is new and of decent quality, It is most likely not the problem. I was just asking about the testing as a lot of folks assume that a 12 or so reading with a multimeter is sufficient. The "amps" is what makes things happen and you can't test that with a multimeter.

Let us know what you find with whether or not the engine will turn by hand and if the starter bendix gear is stuck meshed with the flywheel ring gear....


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## curlybandit (Dec 1, 2014)

I was able to spend some time trying to diagnose the problem this past weekend. A mechanic friend of mine was able to stop by and give me a hand.

I removed the screen and was able to turn the motor by hand at the fan, therefore it's not locked.

When attempting to turn the motor over at the ignition with the key, we would get the same mechanical "clunk" noise that sounded like it was coming from beneath to tractor, possibly at the mower assembly. We tested the battery again and sure enough there was over 12V.

The starter gear was not engaged and not stuck at the flywheel. We tested the power going to the started and it was fine. However there wasn't power - if I remember correctly - going to the solenoid. We then attempted to jump the started by running a direct connection from the positive terminal to the starter and it would turn the motor but it would not fire up. With each attempt we tried with both the seat kill-switch plugged in and with the connector jumped.

I made sure that the fuel tank was full but I believe that there is a sensor of some sort that has cut the fuel off to the motor and possibly power to the solenoid due to some identified safety risk.

The next step now is to remove the mower from the tractor (which I've never done before!!). I have to do it anyway otherwise it won't fit in the shed.

Based on the information I've provided, any suggestions as to what might be going on?

Thanks!!


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