# Got some tractor implements this weekend



## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Got a nice middlebuster, box scraper, landscape rake and boom pole for my 8N tractor this weekend. Got a fabulous deal by buying them all together and even including free shipping to my home. Used the middlebuster in draft this weekend to open up some trench/culvert areas to help drain the flooded pastures. It is just so darn rainy this week. Going to have to get some practice with the box scraper --- 

Any insight or tips with this? Thanks 

Andy


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Where are the pictures?


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## Greg (Sep 16, 2003)

Andy,

Uhhh what's a "middlebuster" and a "boom pole"?

Any pics?

Greg


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## Dana (Sep 30, 2003)

Boom Pole








Middle Buster


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

Congratulations Andy hope you have fun with it all just remember practiced makes perfect:tractorsm 
Jody


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

You'll like that box scraper. Coupled with your adjustable 3PH you'll be able to crown your roadways to help in drainage.


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## parts man (Sep 24, 2003)

Cool Andy,,:thumbsup: Now yer talkin Quality seat time!!:driving:


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## memmurphy (Sep 18, 2003)

Don't forget to take some pictures of that seat time for us! 

Mark


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

NICE!! All stuff I could use myself. OK, well I would trade the MB for a plow, but other than that....

I am waiting to hear how they work for you. Any tips, or tricks you learn on the way I would love to hear.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I use a Land Pride LR1584 Landscaping rake for maintaining my driveway. I have about a half mile of it. The driveway is topped off with about 10 inches of crush & run gravel mix and the rake does a real nice job of leveling it out and pulling the material where I want it. The rake can also also be configured with dual gauge wheels and a rear blade moldboard. 

LR1584 Landscaping Rake


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Well, it has been raining non-stop for the whole week --- so unless I want my N to sink like a stone in the mud --- (yeah that would be fun) --- I will have to wait and wait for it to dry up --------

It is kinda like the raingod knew I bought new toys for the tractor and wanted to punish me a little bit. 

:starwars:


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Would like to know how much weight that boom pole will lift with a N when you get a chance to use it. Seems like something that will come in real handy for my uses. just kinda wondering how much it will lift.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Well, the standard lift on a 8N hydraulics is 750lbs to be safe...but a system in good condition can easily go 800-1000 if needed. Watch the front end ------ on a boom pole, the standard is somewhere in the 500# neighborhood. Keep an eye on the front end!!! It will lift up with too much extended on the boom! 
HAHAHA

:headclap:


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

I played the lite front game lifting a log a few weeks ago. YAZOA!!!! I guess it IS a good thing that my lift works good enough to do that though. Kinda shows me it is working to it's full potental.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I would be careful get the front end off the ground like that. Don't want to break anything in the front end. Can you and some kind of front weights to keep the front end down?


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*paul*



> _Originally posted by Ingersoll444 _
> *I played the lite front game lifting a log a few weeks ago. YAZOA!!!! I guess it IS a good thing that my lift works good enough to do that though. Kinda shows me it is working to it's full potental. *


 If you are using a cross mounted drawbar on the three point hitch to pull logs, someday it will get you. A ford 8N becomes a rear rollover monster hooked just that way. I for one do not want to read about you wearing a tractor for a hat. Any towed load should be hooked below the center line of the rear differential to be safe. Snag a log and the three point floats up,over you go. The whole thing happens in .75 seconds. Do you want to take the chance that you are fast enough to get the clutch pushed in, in time?


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Slip is absolutely right! I didn't think you were skidding logs like that. Use ONLY the draw bar mounted to the bottom of the trans casing for that. I have read articles where what Slip mentioned happened. It happened so fast that the operator and the observers of the accident were just totally dumbfounded. The operator was crushed and killed.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Well, update. It has been way too wet ('Jody can attest to the constant rain) to get anything done. The buttercup type weeds are nearly engulfing one of my pastures so I need to do something about that. Was thinking a nice low cut, then using the ole box scraper, then raking through and putting down some nice grass seed. What about the weeds coming back? Do I need to weed/feed everything? Thanks!

Andy


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

The weed and feed is probably the easiest and least labor intensive route. Now is the time to do it while it is still early in the season and the new sprouts have not started coming up.


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*buttercup*



> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *The weed and feed is probably the easiest and least labor intensive route. Now is the time to do it while it is still early in the season and the new sprouts have not started coming up. *


Oxilis pes caprae
A hardy perennial weed that is next to imposible to control with herbicides. The most effective method is to remove mature plants during the growing season. Destroy all the removed plants. This weed grows from bulbs and herbicides only kill the top of the plant. After a season of removal a preemergent weed killer can be used ,fall is probably the best time, two applications six-eight weeks apart. The other method that has shown to be effective is solarization. Not practical in landscaped areas or turflawns.


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## Chris (Sep 15, 2003)

Wow --- a lot of info. I guess I will just do my best. Arrgh!

Andy


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## Argee (Sep 17, 2003)

Andy,
I don't recommend this very often, only when conditions justify it.

*Think Round Up* It only kills what it comes in contact with....it dilutes and dissapates in a matter of hours.....it doesn't kill seeds(so it is most effective if used before the weed heads out)....it has no long term effect on the soil or the environment.

It may take a few weeks for the field to show you that the roundups working. Once the weeds start dying back, reseed without disturbing the soil to much as you'll be stirring up the seeds of what you just got rid of.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

The weed n feed will kill and block out most of the weeds sprouting early in the season. The best way to keep the weeds at bay is to mow it regularly after the application of the weed n feed. glyphosphate will pretty much kill everything that has already started growing but as already stated will not kill the seeds. You can go back later in the Spring and spray weed killer to take out any that have sprouted later but once it gets hot and dry this can be hard on the grass.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Well, probably to late for you, but if you don;t want to use to many cems on your feild, you could put down Corn gluten meal. You would have to put it down before the weed seeds start growing. May be a good idea for next year, to get the pesky weeds that are left, after your grass crop is growing. Also I have had good luck just keeping the grass mowed. The grass LOVES a hair cut, the weeds don't. Get a nice thick, tall grass crop growing, and it will choke out most of the weeds.


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