# Reformulated Fuel



## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

I don't know how far in the country you have to be to get away from reformulated fuel, but it is sold all the way from here to Indianapolis. No, the stuff you get from the farm delivery coop is the same ****ed stuff. If your equipment sits for 6 months while it snows, the sludge component drops to the bottom of the tank, and the butane portion of the fuel evaporates. I started my 59 ford on 9 year old fuel when I bought it in 1971 from behind the parts store. On my Murray B&S motor I can pour in some E85 ethanol in the sludge and stir it up, but my main ride has a tank full of sludge and I cant get it to start. It will run when I pour fresh fuel down the carburator, for about 5 seconds, but when I pump the accelerator pump which on real gasoline used to get me home, the **** just puts out the fire. *******ed fuel injected cars have a stirring pump in the tank to mix the **** up. I have put 6 gallons of ethanol in the tank, but I can't get any to the the carburator. Today I am going to put a resistor in the carburator fuel bowl to see if heating the **** up electrically will make it actually light a fire. I'm also looking at putting an electric pump and bypassing regulator on the engine (at 7 psi) to pump the stuff out of the tank, up front, and back again, the way all the new cars do to cope with this stuff. NO, I'm not buying a *******ed fuel injected car with their ********* 8 year life wire harnesses. 8 years and you get a check engine light. Every *******ed car made has brass or tin wire harness connectors, which any fool knows is incompatible with low voltage (<25) low current (< 1/2 amp) circuits. I've owned a fuel injected car, the wife traded it away for check engine light at 60000 miles and 9 years. It would plug the catalytic converter and run 20 mph after 200 miles of check engine light. I'm paying on he wife's 4 year old fuel injected car,it runs fine but it is too small to haul tools and gasoline and water out to the country property. My brother offered me a Ford pickup with 100000 miles that won't leave the dealer more than 2 weeks before the check engine light is back on again. I turned it down. ************ed ****. I don't know why people buy this garbage. Every connection in my 59 ford is bolted down, and if they don't want to build cars that way, let them use gold connectors or go to 48 VDC emissions sensors.
And as far as diesels go, G W Bush really *****ed that up. I rented a Ryder 15 foot diesel ford van 2 years ago, it got 22 mpg. I tried to rent one last year, it had "water in the exhaust" and was unavailable. I rented one in Cincinatti, driving up in my car, the diesel Ford van had a check engine light and got 12 mpg. My neighbor traded away a dodge diesel P/U two years ago, that the electric injector pump would go full throttle. 4 trips to the dealer and $2500, it went full throttle again and he traded it so some other fool will be killed. What we need is more electric accessories on our motor vehicles.


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

If I had a Gazillion dollars to spend on anything I wanted, I would spend $5,000 each on my OLD stuff and never even think about buying a 'new' anything! 'NEW' has so many things on them that will ruin your day. When I'm parking something, I let the gas get really low, then park it outside the garage running, till it shuts off. Then I push it inside. New trash gas added in the spring, VAROOM!


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

Got the car to run a little yesterday with the choke on, not with the choke off, even with the engine warm. Took the carburator apart today, all kind of varnishy gel in the fuel bowl, the jets, the idle passages. No wonder it wouldn't run. Wow, isn't reformulated gas wonderful. Yes, I had a fuel filter. 
Oh, this is a 1962 Fairlane carburator off a 221 V8, rejetted bigger for my 1980 255 V8. It is installed in a 1959 Ford Custom 4 door sedan, my main ride (if I ever get to ride again, hasn't run in 9 months except yesterday on the choke). 
The heater in the fuel bowl didn't help anything. Hissed and bubbled, probably driving the volatile elements of the fuel out the vent before they would go through the jets. ****. An electric heater under the carb butterflies might help, they only make those for diesels. A homemade one might fall apart and fall into the valves and damage them. 
I'm an Appalacian American, too, I moved here to work above ground or outside the school system. I have several native ancestors and look it, actually. Couple of native great grandmothers that married miners and woodcutters about 1880-90. Boone County, WV.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

That's why I drive my 1985 Chevy 1/2 ton!NO COMPUTER(I removed the ecm,behind the glovebox).I still get 18mpg,with the 350/4bbl.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

I've never seen the problems you seem to have with fuel injection vehicles and wiring harnesses. My Grand Cherokee is 12 years old, has 121,000 miles on it, and runs like a top. My dad's truck is a '96 Ram 2500 with 90,000 miles and his runs fine too, even with sitting in the damp shed all the time. Your problems with your car plugging the catalytic converter is probably due to a bad oxygen sensor. The fuel can leave deposits on them and make them read incorrectly, forcing the computer into dumping extra fuel into the cylinders. Had that problem with my previous Grand Cherokee (a '97) and found out it was due to a crack in the manifold just ahead of the oxygen sensor that was bleeding air into the exhaust and onto the sensor. The computer then thought that the engine was running lean so it increased the fuel flow to the engine. That in turn coated the oxygen sensor in soot, making it read even farther off. The Jeep would backfire if you let it sit 15-20 minutes and then try to drive it again. Dealer couldn't find the problem after 4 tries in their shop, so I took a look at it and found the crack. Sealed the crack up, replaced the fouled sensor and the problem disappeared. So much for going back to that shop. 

That said, the reformulated gasoline is complete crap. My sister lived in Oconomowoc (near Milwaukee, WI) and they had reformulated gas down there. Her fuel pump died in her car about a year after moving there, and the guy at the shop said that a year was about all the fuel pumps would last on the stuff. He had one whole section of his parts department stocked with just fuel pumps so he could keep up with the demand. Around here, we have plain gas or 10% ethanol fuel, and I generally use the straight gas. Its only the premium blend, but a few cents more per gallon means a whole lot fewer headaches down the road. I feel bad for you with having to buy that crap gas. If you can't get the car to run well, you may have to drop the tank and flush it out. I also recommend Cublovers suggestion of draining the fuel out of the system completely (run it till it dies) when storing a vehicle for more than a month or two. That way, you won't have the stale fuel in the tank to worry about anymore.


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

Country Boy said:


> I've never seen the problems you seem to have with fuel injection vehicles and wiring harnesses. . Your problems with your car plugging the catalytic converter is probably due to a bad oxygen sensor. . That way, you won't have the stale fuel in the tank to worry about anymore.


That car that we got the $300 trade in on at 80000 miles and five years had the catalytic converter changed 3 times by pro mechanics."That is all that is wrong", they would tell the wife. Liars. Ignorant ********s. I myself changed the oxygen sensor, twice, water and air temperature sensors, some other sensor I can't remember. The dealer never saw anything wrong with the sensors, the check engine light was never on at the dealer without the catalytic converter plugged up. The only codes had to do with the catalytic converter, they told her. it would only turn the check engine light on with a new converter out on the road . 
My friend at church has a 97 truck. The check engine light is on, he just drives it with *****y performance. Then there was my brother's 03 Ford truck, 4 times to the mechanic for check engine light in last 2 months and no inspection sticker yet. Take a survey yourself. Go to the used car lot out in the country and see how many of the beautiful used cars have no check engine light on at all. Lots of guys know how to remove a check engine light. The light is supposed to come on at key on, then turn off after a few seconds. Lots of beautiful low mileage cars are for sale at country lots because they never would run worth a ****. 
I don't have the income to pay $20000 for a truck that is only going to last 8-9 years. I just paid off the wife's trouble free 08 Chevy Cobalt. We had to scrap her inherited Toyota, all the plastic and seats and door hardware was breaking up and the windshield kept breaking. We went out to eat last night to celebrate the Cobalt's fourth "birthday". I consider it 1/2 used up, any life over 8 years in a salty environment is a total fluke. . 
As far as drainng the tank before "storage", A. there is no drain on a 59 ford, B. I didn't plan for the crank to wear out that day last June when it got where it just wouldn't pull itself anymore., I had just put 10 gallons in the tank. If I do drain the 12 gallons out of the tank I have nowhere to put it. It won't run in anything. Nobody at the church wants it for their fuel injected cars. Autozone won't take it as recycled oil, even if I did have enough jugs. Pouring down the drain kills the bacteria at the sewage treatmsnt plant, so it is vicious if not a crime. It won't burn in an open pan. Right now I have a quart of fuelI sucked out in the freezer in a metal can trying to see if the heavy stuff will settle to the bottom. Maybe I'll luck out and some of it is water. The tank was sealed as far as I can do, it is a 6 year old tank with no vent but to the fuel filler tube and I put a sealed cap on it for storage. I have to change to a cap I drilled myself on it for a vent now to drive fast , they won't sell vented gas caps anymore for old Fords. 
I pumped the fuel bowl dry today, filled it with fresh gas, got it to start and ran it on 6-7 cylinders for 30 minutes. Won't run below 1500 rpm and won't run at all without the choke on, the "fuel" too heavy to get sucked up to the idle hole, only the main jet is flowing. I rodded all those holes out yesterday with wire. This **** RFG doesn't have the viscosity nor the smell of "gasoline". If I can get the heavy out of the bottom of the tank, I'm going to try to mix it with some E85 ethanol to lighten it up. The worst part of that is, I have to walk 5 miles RT to the only station that has E85, I can't ride the bus with a gas can. And I can only carry about 2 gallons 5 miles, I'm age 61.


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Perhaps the troubles you are having with your newer cars is due to the crap gas. Around here, cars easily last 10 years or more. As I said, my Jeep is 12 and my dad's truck is 16. My friend just bought a 95 Chevy cavalier for running to work, and it runs great. I just don't see the problems in my area that you seem to have there.

As for your "pro mechanics", I had to search far and wide to find one that wouldn't try to screw you over. We have a couple local independent shops that do good work, the dealers shops suck.

As for getting E85, that might be part of your problem. Many older vehicles don't run well on E85 and small engines won't at all. It doesn't have near the energy as straight gas, and you need to increase the size of the jetting on your carb to get it to run correctly. A fuel injected car can adjust for the difference by changing the injector timing and duration (assuming the fuel system is designed for E85 and has the proper injectors and rubber parts so the E85 doesn't destroy them), but a carbureted engine can't. Ethanol is one of the main reasons the gas is so bad now. It contains water being an organic product, and it absorbs water from the atmosphere and separates from the gasoline to form a sludge in the tank. I see it all the time at work in small engine carburetors and I end up changing a lot of carbs due to corrosion from the water/ethanol mix that settles to the bottom of the bowl.

To save your back getting fuel, can you borrow a cart or wagon to take along so you don't have to carry the gas? A wagon would allow you to carry multiple containers, making it easier to get larger quantities. What you could try is to run a rubber hose up to your fuel pump from the can of fresh gas and see if that will let it run correctly. If it does, then you will probably have to drop and flush the tank. I'd collect it in 5 gallon pails and let it sit outside in the sun to evaporate if you can't find someone to take it. Either that or mix it with used motor oil and turn that into the parts store as oil. Any local farmers that could run it in an old tractor?


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

I've been rejetting my carburators since 1989 to cope with this **** RFG. Ever since they deleted the ethanol and went to MBTE. They went away from MBTE about 4 years ago, this new stuff doesn't have a name yet. It is not hardly volatile, leaves an oily film all over my fingers and after running the car the main jets look wet for about 10 minutes until the **** evaporates. So how is it ever going to evaporate in a cold engine? It is nothing like gasoline. The results of the RFG from the fuel bowl in the freezer experiment are that I had two little beads of ice in the bottom out of 6 oz of RFG. The seal in my gas cap is holding. So water in the gas is not my problem, it is just the weight (too heavy) and viscosity (too thick) of this ****.
For the last 10 years I was running a Holley 450 cfm 4bbl on a weiand manifold, for the availability of different jets, but the 255 V8 would never run on more than 6 cylinders until 2200 rpm. So when it got where it wouldn't run at all last year (no vacuum, no power) and I had to replace the crank I put the 255 intake manifold back on it, but no way I'm putting the variable venturi Motorcraft carburator with the 65 vacuum hoses on it. I found this 62 fairlane Fomoco 2bbl carb had the same jets as the holley, so I am trying to use that. It had 48 jets, I opened them up to 52. But the RFG won't fall through the idle holes even with the idle screws out 4 turns. And the main jets only suck the stuff out with the choke on. Same as the flat head Briggs and Stratton engines I have on the flail mower and the 46" murray out at the country property, only run with the choke on, 35 minutes on a 1 1/2 gallon tank. The verticle shaft 15.5 hp B&S motor can handle RFG with a carb. . 
I realize E85 is low energy, even with advancing the timing when I was running 40% E85 last year my car wouldn't go over 40, but at least it would idle and move. I bought 1.47 gal of E85 last night (5 mile walk is good for diabetes after dinner) and am going to try a fuel bowl of that today to see if I can get a decent idle. I may have to install a separate tank for just e85, and an e85 sprayer over the butterflies instead of the idle circuits, to move on. This stall event happened in early June last year, right about the time that Swifty changes over to summer gas. They might have changed the formula of RFG again last yar, is what happened to me. Pumped 4 gallons of RFG out of the tank into an oil can last night, but the filler spout leaks air. 
As far as going fuel injected, my yard man's girlfriend just scrapped her 88 crown vic with 90000 miles because it needed a catalytic converter a second time. If nobody can repair the **** things, it is all a big conspiracy to sell new cars, is my opinion. As a low mileage driver, there is no way I am spending $5 a mile for a truck that will be useless in 8-9 years with 20000 miles on it. My brother gets 180000 out of his business ford trucks that drive all over Texas, but the one his kid drove to college is useless at 9 years and 100000 miles. My brother has a fleet of 6 pickups and 2 cars, and can't find anybody to do quality emissions repairs on the low mileage vehicles. Two pickups are 7.2 L V8 Ford diesels, fortunately before engine computers, one is fine but a little hard to start at 200000 miles. He didn't offer me one of those. 
Long term I have a Mercedes 240D diesel that was sold to me for $2000 at 240000 miles with a **** motor job. New rings, $800 on the head at Tim's NAPA machine shop (good reputation), new main bearings. No cylinder liners, no crank turning. That lasted 5000 miles before the compression is too low to start it, and the oil pressure is low again, too. $.40 a mile so far and I have four 3 year old tires, a rebuilt front end, and 4 new brake rotors, calipers, brake hoses, heater core. It may be more productive to pull that engine and get the liners installed and the block deck ground, but I have no way to get it to the shop. If anybody does quality Mercedes machine work anyway. Several people have recommended this **** shop that did this sleazeball "overhaul" the last time, and I feel he actually deserves interrogation with a flame thrower, not more chances to **** somebody again. .


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## Mickey (Aug 14, 2010)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engines)

http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/Water-Injection-Systems/

Don't jump to conclusions too quickly about methanol/water and negative affects on engines. Yes you do need to make sure rubber components in the fuel system are compatable with methanol. *Never* have had any problems with using gasohol and it is the only gas available here for more than a decade. Never get rid of a cars with <175k miles and cat has not been an issue. Maintaining at least 10 engines, about a 50/50 mix between auto and smaller industrial engines. Most of engines/vehicles sit all winter long with fuel in them. My GT, a Cub, was running within 2-3 sec when started for first time this spring.


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

I recognize the odor of methanol and I don't have any. The RFG is some kind of vile smelly oily compound, better smelling than MBTE we got in 89 but not much. Much more viscous than MBTE. I used to have to undersize the main jets for MBTE to keep the stuff from running through the carburator so fast and fouling the plugs black. 
The E85 smells like ethanol. Methanol is for sale a the hardware store for $15 a gallon in a metal can, or in tiny gas-dry bottles for $4. Not a vaiid motor fuel alternative, in my opinion. Note Mickey doesn't have a location listed. One of the problems with RFG, every state is allowed to have a different formula. Kentucky and Indiana Ohio valley areas, all RFG comes up the Ohio river in barges and is unloaded in Clarksville, IN. When Texaco and Chevron operated here, their tankers pulled up to the same hose as the rot-gut brands, but the driver would climb on top and pour in a bucket of chemicals. Before RFG there was a Rock Island refinery in Indianapolis that made real gasoline, but when RFG was required in 89 they tore it down and built houses.
Edit 1PM. with the RFG pumped out of the fuel bowl and E85 installed, the car starts and runs on 8 cylinders for 20 seconds without much choke. Can't do the rubber hose in lawnmower can trick without removing the mechanical fuel pump that would squirt RFG somewhere. Going to try to refurbish an Autolight 2bbl carburator with a DD part number (70's) with much bigger idle holes. Might have been off a 352 cu in engine or something. Will be hours adapting the inop heat riser choke (they never worked more than a year or two, and I've been driving fomoco/autolite/motorcraft carbs since 1966) to a manual choke like I've rigged up on the 221 cu in carburator.


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

I parked the cub cadet last fall with a little bit of gas in it. When it wouldn't fire saturday, I pulled the cap on the tank. That crap smelled like it has been in there for 20 years! I poured another gallon in it, but it still wouldn't fire.
I'm going to shoot it with starting fluid this week and use it till it runs out of gas.
It's not 87! I only use 89 or better in my machines.
It was parked under roof, but not inside. It's only been parked since November!


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

Sounds like cublover has the same **** in maryland that we have in Kentuckiana. Try a little E85 in the tank if you can get it, if your cub has an overhead valve post 1990 engine.
Since I put the 4 bbl manifold on the car and gas changed away from MBTE RFG, I have been getting about 5 mpg on 2 mile trips to the grocery store and 17 mpg on the 27 mile trip out to the country. I think it is because this heavy **** won't evaporate until the engine is hot, it just blows right through and out the exhaust. I'm installing 56 ohm 3 watt resistors in the spacer under the carb butterflies to try to electrically evaporate the **** until the engine warms. up. As these metal bits might fall apart in a backfire, I'm having to make a steel sieve plate to go under the garolite carb spacer. I want to keep this short block, the holes are .031" oversize with .030 pistons, and the compression is over 110 psi cranking. The sieve plate would cut top end horsepower, but I'm not even driving this car on the freeway anymore, just back and forth to the country property. I'm wallowing grooves in the carb spacer to get the wires out, and making a zig zag in the path so the silicon rubber sealant might stay in if the car backfires. 
This might make it run cold on the accelerator pump, but it is still not sucking the RFG **** out of the idle holes. I've a spare fomoco carb off a 351 or something, I'm going to try drilling out the idle holes into the throat if I can get a pin vise in there with a drll bit. If not, I'll have to buy an electric shutoff valve and put a squirter over the venturies that runs directly off the fuel pump. I already have a regulator after the fuel pump to even out the pulses. Barrier now, is that parker has attractively priced 2 way valves with 12 vdc coils, but their sealant compatability table to different chemicals is totally unreadable on their downloaded catalog. I could buy a 3 way tank switcher valve at the auto supply, but it would squirt fuel in the air out the third way. Everything I have bought from the auto supply has been total **** lately. Even the pro line from Borg Warner is made in c****now. I don't know why to pay extra for import ****. The heater cutoff valve I bought from Obriens last year lasted under a year before it started leaking, and the Borg Warner pro line ford starter relay I bought lasted 3 months before the c******* **** retaining nut backed off and left me startless in the grocery store parking lot.


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

If anybody cares, I got the Ford V-8 to run 10 minutes on stale kentuckiana RFG with a carburator. Whereas before, I was starting the engine on a splash of fresh E85, then the accelerator pump was putting out the fire, now I can start it on the accelerator pump out of the tank. The secret- heat in the airstream below the carburator. I made a carb spacer out of textolite-micarta-garolite-Nema LE laminate. I bought 6 each 68 ohm 3 watt resistors, and put three below each butterfly. I ran a channel in the spacer for the wires, ran out some teflon wire, and hooked it up to a fuse and power switch. Filled the channel with 400 deg silicon seal. Now to start the engine I turn on the "carb heat", pump the accelerator pump a couple of times, then crank the motor. No splash of fresh E85 required. Ran it 20 minutes today, mostly above 2000 rpm although when I let it bog, I had to use the accel pump some. Won't idle, but is getting 15 in vacuum at 2000 rpm. This whole episode started in June last year when I lost vacuum and power, but I've changed the intake manifold (4bbl to 2bbl) , gaskets (4 times) carburator (4bbl to 2 bbl), checked the cam for lift and finally replaced the crank, which was binding. The cylinders are .031" oversize with .030" pistons, just the old lady must have run it with no oil after the motor job and destroyed the crank, which had .020" end play at the (new) main bearing. 
For my next act, going to make something to allow it to idle on this ****. Have the idle jets on a fomoco carb backed all the way out, it is too viscous to flow. Keep looking at the injectors from the surplus mustang motor that won't pull a heavy load, but those are only made to work into a cast aluminum cone pushed in by a custom stainless manifold. I can't figure any way to use them without them leaking like a sieve. 
Looking at a clippard minimatics needle valve I bought surplus, to squirt RFG over the butterflies under the regulated pressure of the 7 psi fuel pump. (Years ago I had to install an aftermarket pressure regulator after the mechanical fuel pump to keep the RFG from blowing the needle valve in the carb right open). Now I need a bit of 10-32 pipe, and a nozzle of some sort to go over the venturies. 
Oh, less the resistors fall apart under a backfire or something, I built a restrictor plate out of 14 ga flat steel to go above the intake manifold and below the laminate spacer with the heaters. Has a lot of 5/32" holes drilled in it to allow air and fuel through, no mechanical parts falliing down. Probably cut my top end horsepower, but I'm not running Talledega here, just trying to drive out to the country property. 
An NO i'm not going to buy a used fuel injected car and drive around with the check engine light stuck on like the deacons at the church. If there is any pollution, it won't be plugging up my catalytic converter, not on my 59 ford.


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## Larry in OK (Jul 22, 2010)

Man, the problems you guys have. 
I've got a few old beaters I drive and I never have fuel issues with any of them. 
'52 AC 
'68 Jeep M715
'83 Chevy pickup
'92 Jeep Cherokee (240,000 miles)
If anything is likely to sit a while I add fuel stabilizer to the tank and run it long enough to get it into the lines and carb. 
Even my '02 FI Harley which sat for almost 8 months ( long story) fired right up and never missed a beat with a fresh battery.


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

Yeah, out west the gas might be something sort of old fashioned. Lots of wind in Oklahoma, not many ozone alert days. When I drove the 62 fairlane out to the Grand Canyon in 97, New Mexico was still selling leaded regular gas. Oh, the odor! The power of engines in the old days! I ran up the continental divide at 95 past dozens of modern cars overheating and vapor locking by the side of the road. (All the radar cars were on the downhill side). 
I made an idle squirter out of a steel fitting wth a 0.060" hole in the end, put a U shaped wire with a wedge ground tip in the hole to make a sort of atomizer. This is for the idle squirter running off the regulated pressure fuel from the fuel pump. All the needle or small gate valves I had were cursed with weird threads for natural gas fittings or something, so I had to order an 1/8" pipe thread needle valve from california Monday. Squirt nozzles used in food prep to atomize vegetable oil have a ball in the end pressed against the hole with a spring, but those things are designed to run against 120 PSI shop air driven pumps, so there is no use buying a pro squirt nozzle for a 5 PSI RFG system. 
Been trying to find an electric valve to turn the idle squirter on and off with, having trouble locating one closer than $13 freight bill away. (CA?)
I'm sure Autozone or OBriens would sell me a 12 VDC fuel cutoff valve made out of plastic that would last at least 6 months. That is how long it took the **** Borg Warner heater cutoff valve to start leaking. I don't know why the auto supplies think we all want to buy **** to make our car last 2 more miles before we sell it, but the fools line up at the counter at Autozone that never sold anything of quality ever. Now Borg Warner has jumped into the toilet right after AZ. Two years ago their pro-line parts used to be pretty good, but not any more. Import ****.
5/23/12 1500. Improved the pressurized idle squirter by buying a .020" cone sprayer from Mcmaster.com 3178k63, instead of the .060 hole fitting with a wedge stuck in it. Also bought an electric 1/8 pipe shutoff valve 7877K313. Bought a needle valve from directmaterials.com N0311. Success, the car will now idle with the electric idle gas squirter turned on. Atomizes fuel only with way too much gas, turning down the needle valve to almost closed makes it drip instead of atomize, but car still idles on 7 or 8 cylinders. First decent idle in years. It is summer now, I can turn the intake heaters off after 10 seconds. I'll probably buy a .010" orifice nozzle in the future for better atomization, but today I'm off to the country to mow. Remember, this squirt system is running off the "7 psi" mechanical fuel pump, regulated by a Mr. Gasket pressure regulator, set to "4". Nozzle is inside the metal air cleaner, piping run up through the hole in the bottom for the crankcase vent hose. Nozzle is pointed down 45 deg towards venturies on a pipe fitting. Nozzle is above the choke, at the moment with this excess gas I don't need the choke. At least I can turn the squirter off when on the road. I'll have to, the electric valve is ittermittant duty. Nobody had a 12VDC continuous duty valve in stock. In the future, I will get a prox switch to turn the electric valve on when the throttle rod is at idle position, but for now I can turn the valve off by hand from the driver position. Taking 5 gal of water with me in case of fire, although see no leaks in the piping at this time. Using a 10 micron sunflower fuel filter, anything larger would let rust through that plugs up main jets (previously happened, even with my 4 year old new tank) and obviously, this idle squirt nozzle.


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

Update- After one 25 mile trip with smooth idle on the low pressure squirter, after sitting 4 days the mcmaster 7877k313 valve stopped up. This was with a 10 micron sunflower filter that does a great job of keeping rust particles out of my fuel bowl and needle valve. The ittermittant duty valve solenoid coil still has continuity, and the electricity is still on and the ground is still good. So I have to conclude the Buna-N seal in the valve is incompatible with Kentuciana RFG. @!#$%$%^&&*( I'm trying to buy a better valve today, but the only ones I can find in stock for 12 VDC are for food service with "FKM" seals. Asco has a real nice chemical compatibility chart which does not have "FKM" as an entry. I doubt if they know what the RFG is here anyway. I'd like to buy a PFTE sealed valve, probably will take 12 weeks for them to make it and get it through customs from Mexico or China. No, I'm not buying a 3 way tank switcher valve from a pickup- too many holes and the plastic body (is there anything else in auto parts now?) probably would melt in the engine compartment anyway. Walked 3 miles yesterday to a friend from church house yesterday 4-6AM to ride into town and order parts. He is off work now that school is out, I'll probably have to fix my bicycle and ride the 25 miles back out there with the fuel parts and more gasoline for the mower.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Our local farmers CO-OP sells non ethanol fuel you might check at yours, or a farm supply place close to you if you have one that sells fuel.


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## indianajo (Apr 15, 2009)

I've checked Co-op of Nabb IN. They sell the same **** RFG the gas station does, only they don't pay the road tax. Ethanol is not the problem. The chemical has a name according to wikipedia. It is not MBTE (Methyl Butyl Tertiary Ether), that was taken out about 3 years ago for polluting the ground water. Now wikipedia says some RFG is Amyl Butyl Ether. Dissolves Buna N rubber in one day. I made a gasket for a gas can that leaked out of buna- n sheet rubber, it was all warped and twisted the next day. FKM is apparently the name for non-Dupont Viton rubber. The ASCO valve I ordered for the idle fuel squirter has been out 2 weeks now. The vendor says it will probably be here in 3 weeks plus 3 days shipping. Meanwhile the car sits. Road my bicycle 27 miles into town yesterday to get a bath and check if my parts are in yet. Nope! Ordered a 0.010" cone sprayer yesterday, too, from mcmaster. Also some check valves to allow dual fuel pumps. The main cam driven mechanical pump (new last Friday) has sprung the threads on the V-8 front cover. No wonder I run out of gas going up hills. Going to fix that and put a backup electric pump in with a separate fuel line and filter from the tank, since I've "run out of gas" with a pretty full tank 3 times in 3 months now. Carrying the electric drill out on the bicycle 27 miles however will be one more ordeal. At least the weather is nice, cool and dry at night.
1520 The valve is here!. 8 days order/receipt. Asco U8256A002V 12/DC 1/8" FPT 2 way NC FKM seal. $37
Check valves tomorrow, if mcmaster 2 day response is as normal. Back to the country!


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

After a 12 month 'rest', I tried to use my 72 GMC rollback a couple weeks ago. I messed with the fuel system for an hour. (It would run on a prime)
I hooked up an electric fuel pump into a can and it wouldn't run past the 'prime'. I pulled out a 'recent' fuel filter and it couldn't have been stopped up tighter with JB WELD!! It 'looked' fine, but I could not get it to pass air. I put a clear 'in line' filter on the truck and went to work. (using the fuel system provided by GMC 40 years ago)
It was showing 1/4 tank, but ran so bad that we dumped 3 gallons of 'fresh' into it to make sure it kept running. It stunk so bad!! It ran poorly, but it did the 'work' I needed done that day.
I scrapped a van that had been parked for 10 years. We put it on the rollback and backed it to the firepit to punch the tank. It smelled like GASOLINE!! I caught as much as possible and used it in the mowers! I punched the tank on a car that I put 5 gallons of high test in 2 years ago, and I poured it on the poison ivy patch! It stunk the place up for a week!
Now, THAT is 'progress'! 10 year old gas smelled better and worked better than 2 year old gas! That van was parked YEARS before the car was'purchased'. I drove that car for several years. I blew the engine up at the 'Auto-cross'. It had high test, because I was racing it. 'modern' high test sucks so bad compared to what we were using 10 years ago!


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## Rusty (Jun 15, 2011)

I have a gas onan generator in my RV and have to leave gas in it for a few months at a time ,I use a product called Sta-bil,it keeps the gas from varnishing parts and keeps your gas fresh. found at any auto parts store and Wally world,


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## Cublover (Feb 20, 2011)

Rusty said:


> I have a gas onan generator in my RV and have to leave gas in it for a few months at a time ,I use a product called Sta-bil,it keeps the gas from varnishing parts and keeps your gas fresh. found at any auto parts store and Wally world,


We never used to have to do that! I would need 25 bottles to do the 'fleet', not counting the ones I drain. The 5 that get regular use are ok.
Everything I parked for a year that has an electric fuel pump in tank does not run anymore! I have towed so many vehicles off the highway in April over fuel pump failures. Had to put out fires over rubber lines failing on older cars. I only buy the fuel lines with the blue plastic liners in them because the older type ROT UP in 2 years! Our new fuel is POISON to vehicles! My oldest vehicle is a 1930. My newest is a 1997. I HATE what they have done to my 'fuel'. I put 2 stroke oil in my old cars to get some top cylender lube action. I can get 10 mph better up the mountain with it! Also, a little better mileage.
I parked my 61 Ford for the winter with 1/4 tank in it. It took me over an hour to get it started! It had fire and compression. Poured fresh gas in it, still wouldn't start. I had to spray starting fluid in it to get it going! I've had that car for 40 years! This year, I used starting fluid on it for for the FIRST time! I ran sort-of OK after it warmed up. It will be 'out of gas' when I put it away next time!


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## Rusty (Jun 15, 2011)

that crap fuel they call E85 ethonal will destroy an older engine better than anything ,it burns at higher temps causing pitting and hot spots in the valvtrain as well as the cylinder walls, I try to avoid it all together, but not always possible, arrrgghh,they say the newer "flex fuel engine will run better with it but I don't really believe it with all the aluminium parts in them. Give me the old days with High Octane leaded fuel,pollution be damned!


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