# adjusting valves 12.5hp intex



## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

the starter is fine I took the spark plug out and she turned over fine,w/ spark plug start seriously dragged to the point of not turning over this w/ a very weak battery it was 10volts before charging for a short time didn't check voltage after short charge.

removed the valve cover and the valves appeared out of adjustment.


any tips on getting to TDC is appreciated.

also what is the desired settings of valves?

the few videos I've sean show a set screw as a adjuster being star bit screwdriver and lock nut mine RER I didn't see a star adjuster inside the locknut like I see in the 7hp engine

I have a feeler guage but am unsure of the settings.top valve 4 thoundans .004 bottom valve 6 thoundans .006 on the feeler guage.
sorry to sound like a complete newb but gotta start somewhere right? thanks for advice


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

these guys are setting both at 4 thousands





so I don't need TDC I can adjust w/ one valve open the other closed?

is there a star torques bit deep inside the lock nut anyone know the size of this bit? maybe a T20


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Here's some things that might help you get those valves adjusted...
*1)* When you're dealing with Briggs, you have to know your model #(there's a tag on the blower housing/flywheel cover). You're saying it's 12.5HP... That's usually a 280000 series
*2)* The COLD valve settings on a 280000 series is listed as .003-.005 for the intake, .005-.007 on the exhaust. See "Briggs Single Cylinder Intake Common Specs" on page 2 in the Manuals Section of this Forum for the correct setting spec for your model of engine
*3)* The pushrods tell you which valve... Aluminum = Intake, Steel = Exhaust
*4)* I always pull the blower housing off to expose the flywheel when I adjust valves. I buff/sand the flywheel magnet and set the magneto "air gap" (.010)
*5)* With the plug out, roll the flywheel until the flywheel magnet lines up with magneto legs. Wiggle the rocker arms, at TDC on the compression stroke, they both should be loose. If both rockers aren't loose, rotate the flywheel 360 degrees until magnet lines up with magneto legs again... Both rockers should be loose.
*6)* Now roll the flywheel magnet 3'-4" *PAST* the magneto pickups. This step is to make sure the ACR (Automatic Compression Release) doesn't come into play with your exhaust valve setting.
*7)* The valve clearance is actually adjusted with the *outer nut*. The "set screw" is just exactly that... It's function is to set/lock the adjusting nut in place and keep it from rotating loose. Sometimes they are a Torx-bit, sometimes they are an Allen-head. Hold the rocker arm tightly with your fingers and leave the feeler gauge in place as you "lock" the set screw down with your other hand. Check the feeler gauge for that slight drag. Now check your setting with the next higher feeler gauge size (.005 setting --- check fit with .006), it shouldn't go in the clearance setting.
*9)* Roll the flywheel through at least a couple of compression cycles and check your work. Put the valve cover back in place, if every thing is good. If it doesn't keep a consistent setting... You could have a worn cam lobe, worn rocker, or a bad pushrod.
*8)* You probably have both recoil and electric start on that Snapper. Put the plug back in and fire it up *without* the blower housing on it. Adjust the carb as needed... You'll appreciate me telling you to leave the blower housing off, for the initial start, if this valve adjustment doesn't fix your "dragging problem" and you decide you need to change the starter.....


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

good advice you lost me at step 4
watched a dozen videos not one mentioned flywheel magnet and set the magneto please explain this procedure.

again
so I don't need TDC I can adjust w/ one valve open the other closed?

is there a star torques bit deep inside the lock nut anyone know the size of this bit? maybe a T20

I dont see a star or allen head I do see a nipple in the middle of locknut


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

The reason the OEM Service Manuals always say "TDC compression stroke" is so both valves are closed at the same time. It's the quickest way to do two required steps at the same time... valve adjustment and set the magneto air gap. Factory Service Manuals are written for Factory Service Technicians. In a Service Shop, Technician job time is $$$, the faster they work the more invoices billed in a day.... As long as the valve is closed, and the rocker arm "wiggles", you're usually safe to adjust the valve.

Like I said earlier... It sure would help to know the MODEL #. If it's a 2800000, 3100000, or 3300000 they don't have a set screw. What you're seeing is the tapered end of the "Rocker Stud" and the adjustment is made with just the nut. It's because they run tiny "valve spring caps" between the end of the valve stem and the rocker arm (Briggs #691843)








Download "Briggs Single Cylinder OHV Service Manual" located on page 2 in the Service Manuals Section of this Forum.... See Page 99, figure 22 ---

Take the adjusting nut completely off... What you'll probably see is that "nipple" serves as an alignment guide to keep you from x-threading the super fine threads on the adjuster nut/rocker arm stud when you remove the rocker arm.

Make sure those valve spring caps are on the end of the valve stems while you're there. You're peeing into the wind trying to do a valve adjustment if the clearance got so sloppy they came off, or somebody took the rocker arm off and reassembled without knowing they have to be there. A slightly bent pushrod can "pitch" the cap also. Pull the pushrods and roll them on a flat surface to check for a slight bend. It's a PITA sometimes to get them back in right on the cam end, but you need to know they're straight. You'll need a flashlight to make sure they're seating correctly and then hold them in place while you install the rocker arm. Put a dab of grease between the valve stem and the valve stem cap to "glue" the cap in place while you're installing the rocker arm. Otherwise, you'll probably bump the cap off and lose it. If the valve spring cap is missing on the exhaust valve, you'll never get it to adjust where the compression release works.

Be sure to pay attention when you actually go to set the valves, it's not as it 1st appears... the exhaust is the UPPER valve (steel pushrod), the lower valve is the intake (aluminum pushrod). There's a You Tube video out there showing a know-it-all, Knucklehead, from Alabama doing it bass ackwards. He supposedly does it for a living and is actually charging people for his extensive skills


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

the mower seriel # 2012912220 model # 7800105 it's a 2009 rear engine 12.5 horse power

how I'm gonna adjust, hold in place then tighten w/ just one nut and no set screw.holding in place seams difficult do I simply adjust and hold rocker w/ hand rocker in position then tighten? woops my bad I just reread step 7

yeah I did see the push rod guides being chewed up (that video was on a chinese push mower. I'll inspect.

I believe this valve cover has never been removed.
thanks again


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

it finally stopped raining so I had a chance to adjust the valves both to .004

reinstalled spark plug and recoil cover. she cranked up. I thought I did something.

next I reinstalled valve cover now she won't crank
guess I'll check adjustment and redo.

are any videos on models w/out the set screw inside rockers lock nut

edit:I skipped step 8 rotating 360 an recheck and yes the snapper has electric start and the rope pull.
thanks Bob


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

7800105 is the model # on the Snapper chassis, not the Briggs engine. Briggs engine model and type code are either on a tag attached to the blower housing cover, or stamped into the top of the valve cover.

Putting the valve cover back on shouldn't have any effect on your valve adjustment. Sounds like you might have a plugged crankcase breather vent. Loosen the dipstick enough to let it breath, but not blow oil all over the place. If it starts, it's a plugged breather vent....

*"Briggs Single Cylinder OHV Service Manual"* located on page 2 in the Service Manuals Section of this Forum.... See Pages 116 to 118 ---


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

attempted to start her w/ the oil cap loose.

the battery is 10.8VDC when I turned the key I heard the starter clicking must the battery be 12VDC


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Battery voltage depends on temperature.... A "12V" battery at 70 degrees --
*100%* charge = *12.6V* 
*50%* charge = *12.06V*
Anything *below 11V* is *0%* charge, regardless of temperature

*Walmart* is the cheapest place to buy batteries....
12V X 230A (BELOW 15HP) = $22 WITH EXCHANGE
12V X 270A (16 - 20 HP) = $30 WITH EXCHANGE
12V X 340A (ABOVE 21HP) = $40 WITH EXCHANGE


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

charged battery back up about 1 hour 12.4VDC
w/ the oil cap loose she cranked right up.

looked over the ventilation material on pages 116-118 however not seeing such tube on mower.

can I drill a small hole and add a breather to the oil cap?https://www.amazon.com/SupportTM-12...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Thanks Bob you the man.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

280000-310000 series Intek breather locations ….

*Old style *breather is behind the carburetor, on the *side of the block

New style* breather is on *top of the block*, one bolt is under the flywheel


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

ok I;ll look around the the engine, I got lucky being able to return the wrong starter, I;d like to order the correct breather.
not seeing anything breather related or the part# in the owners manual?


I don;t know what to think about the repair manual w/ assorted engine configurations unsure if the engine is vertical or horizontal.
I really don;t even know if this is briggs straton or intex.
maybe A in attached image is the breather under the carb?

been searching for a video on the breather can;t seam to find one.

thanks again Bob.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

The picture you posted is the *OLD STYLE* breather, behind the carb
















The *NEW STYLE* breather is on top of the block with one bolt underneath the flywheel. Briggs # 792185


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I have the new style ½ under the flywheel.








I was able to remove the exposed bolt.

apparently the flywheel will need to be removed.

do you have a procedure for flywheel removal.
how doe;s this look
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-792185-Breather-Assembly/dp/B005F6QATY

edit: I don;t see the valve is the internal filter the only replaced part? and can it be simply cleaned?
thanks


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

PS, looks like a vertical to me.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Undo the two bolts with a 5/16 wrench and move the magneto out of the way. Starter cup comes off. Blower fan comes off. Use Briggs #19203 flywheel tool to remove flywheel. When you reinstall the flywheel, reset the magneto air gap at .010








https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=using+a+flywheel+knocker&&view=detail&mid=65E89C6058B10984C9CD65E89C6058B10984C9CD&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=/videos/search?q=using+a+flywheel+knocker&FORM=HDRSC3

P.S. The 7800 series Snappers only came with vertical engines. In the picture you just posted, the Briggs Engine Model and Type number can be seen stamped into the top of your valve cover


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

yes I aw the # on the valve cover.

Looks This man is using the same pulley remover I used to pull the power steering pump off my GM car.I rented the tool from the auto parts store. But will be buying it if I break it.I think it’s aluminum






the brigg puller look good enough however isn;t there a big middle bolt?
woops my bad I just watched the video you linked to never sean a puller like that I actuelly wouldn't mind spending a little more for a bigger puller.
thanks


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

edit: I don;t see the valve on the new breather is the internal filter the only replaced part? and can it be simply cleaned?

what size are the pullers bolts I may just rent the tool
thanks


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I don`t feel like removing the fly wheel right now because I`ll be asking for advice on setting the air gap on the magneto.probably break the flywheel key ect. 

can`t I get away w/ adding a breather filter like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J87249?ref=em_1p_2_ti&ref_=pe_27542550_468363710&th=1
to the oil cap?
I`ll plan on replacing or cleaning original breather this spring I only want to mow the winter leaves and be done till next spring.
thanks


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I did a home made breather she wouldn't start. barely turned over w/ battery at 12.38V
here are the # on valve cover 219907 0131b1 0804302A

what are my options for swapping in a new engine like cost and ease or hardness of swap.
do new engines come w/ breathers/flywheels/starters/carbs?
thanks


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Voltage is not the only variable. Take the battery to an auto supply store and they will load test it for free. I suspect all you need is a new battery.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

Yes sir you are absolutely correct the battery is weak. According to my chart it’s at 75%.


I charged the battery overnight at 12.38V engine would barely turn over.
I've been informed this could be wornout cam causeing hard to turn over.plan to recheck the valves.


If I continued to charge more than overnight would the battery eventually gain voltage.

or can I get a portable jump box to jump start the snapper mow the last of the leaves then wait till spring before getting the next battery.


I’d still like a new engine will the new engine usually come w/ new starter/carb/breather/flywheel/ everything except the fuel tank. I’ve read the Honda lawn mower engines holes require drilling on the snapper is this true or false. Maybe a kawasaki would swap easier?Briggs straton has 17 horse power for like $600 shipped thanks for advising


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

Use jumper cables from your vehicle and start the engine. Mow your leaves, then buy a new battery in the spring. You don't need a new engine, That's all the advice I can give you.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

bbirder said:


> Use jumper cables from your vehicle and start the engine. Mow your leaves, then buy a new battery in the spring. You don't need a new engine, That's all the advice I can give you.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

actuely I don't have jumper cables just a charger.

I can make a suitable connection I'll plan to use the boat battery to jump off the snapper. still I'd like a portable jump box.

https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Strat...ZGT05FABVET&psc=1&refRID=70AE2DH39ZGT05FABVET


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

Please tell me you're not serious about putting a $600 engine on a 11 year old $300 mower? Take a look under that Snapper at the *drive disc system*. Please don't take this wrong, but do you really have the skill set/tools to make a complete engine swap and set that drive disc system up correctly? If you don't even own a set of jumper cables, how do you plan on getting that upper drive disc off the engine after 11 years without destroying it?

A new battery is $22 at Walmart (exchange). 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Lawn-and-Garden-Battery-U1R/16795214

You won't ever know if all you efforts over the last month (26 post) were successful if you let spending $22 on a new battery stymie you....


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

And perhaps pick up a set of booster cables. At least you can give it a go and it won't break the bank.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

yes I think or thought a new engine was a good idea. are you implying that the underneath of my snapper is wornout and this new engine idea isn't worth it due to trans related wear?

owning a pair of jumper cables hasn't any reflection of skill level when I have a charger.

OK are you saying she's hard to turn over due to a clogged breather? remember I've loosened the oil cap a 1/2".

will the car battery be to powerfulll?I could vice gripe some homemade jumpers from the car.


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## Bob Driver (Nov 1, 2017)

I was trying to tactfully suggest that most people wouldn't normally see spending twice as much on an engine as their mower is actually worth as an economically viable solution and that the complexity of making a successful engine swap on a Snapper, with their unique disc drive system, might be a bit much. Are you familiar with the Dunning-Kruger Effect?

I wish you the best, good luck with your project.....


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

woops my bad I thought a engine swap would be the easiest and most reliable option. didn't realize it was a complicated job.like there's 4 bolts that hold the engine and a belt
drive underneath right?
are you saying she's hard to turn over due to a clogged breather?

I was sure the shrinks had a name for my mind desize I always thought it was called trying to figure stuff out duh. thanks for the scientific term of my condition.i'll get a battery today.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

TheBrain said:


> yes I think or thought a new engine was a good idea. are you implying that the underneath of my snapper is wornout and this new engine idea isn't worth it due to trans related wear?
> 
> owning a pair of jumper cables hasn't any reflection of skill level when I have a charger.
> 
> ...


If you read Bob's reply, he has indicated that the pulling the engine could be very difficult and could cause irreparable damage to the drive. And owning a pair of jumper cables has no reflection on your ability to use a battery charger / maintainer, it just allows you to get an instant start using your vehicle or another battery without taking the mower battery out, and you don't have to wait for the battery to charge up. I have a couple of battery chargers that have the boost function to allow me to jump start my equipment if needed.
As for the car battery, it all depends on the battery you have in your mower. The car battery should be fine for a boost. Some of the specialized smaller batteries such as the ones for motorcycles, etc. may not do well with a larger automotive battery charger. Check the box your Cabellas came in and see if it's recommended for mowers, motorcycles and the such.
In regards to the breather, go back and reread posts in and around #14.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

It's quite obvious that the battery has stuffed cell/s because of not holding the load, what is wrong with using the pull cord to try and start the engine?.

I don't believe your breather is clogged, sorry Bob, I believe the valve adjustment is wrong !!.

If you are going to redo the valve clearances again, do it with the Briggs method as Bob advised in post #3, read it through and read it again, I haven't worked out if the adjustment nuts on the rockers have locking set screws, Briggs have also used clamp nuts only, which is the nut on the rocker has extra tight threads and you adjust by shifting the nut either way to tighten or loosen the gap.

you could use the steering wheel puller to remove the flywheel and you wont break the key doing so, I can give you the puller bolt length and thread size, just have to go across to the shed and check them, I have the same puller as Bob has shown in post #17 and the bolts are 3 inches long and the thread is 5/16th national course 18 tpi (threads per inch), resetting the air gap is no problem neither, I use a piece of clear box plastic cut in a strip that covers both coil legs, more on that later if you go this way.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I’ve attempted to pull start it prior to valve adjustment I was almost puling deadweight, like I was lifting the intire snapper off the ground before the rope would turn her over.


I will recheck the valves and yes there isn’t a lock set screw on these valves I kindof held the valve at .004 then tightened.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

update I redid the valve adjustment. didn't attempt start w/ oil cap in place used the home made breather a piece of sponge held on w/ window screen and lacing cord.
still waiting to hear if the original old breather can be cleaned?

even w/ a weak battery still seamed like the starter was dragging but she did start an ran good and the bagger worked OK. I have another thread on improving the bagger.

I'm glad all the leaves are gone.

the bad while monkeying around w/ the valves now the throttle cable is stickie like the lever won't go all the way forward for the choke part of throttle.I'll take a close look at the cable.
thanks Guys for advicing


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Replace the breather cap before you end up sucking the home made breather down into the engine, if this happens, then you will be in bigger strife.

Your breather shouldn't need cleaning full stop.

If you have some WD40, RP7 or the like dewatering fluid, give the cable a liberal soaking a few times and see how that goes, did you by chance remove the cable from the mount near the carby ?, if so it will have to be readjusted, this is easy enough to do.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

first mow of season update.
don't think I needed the breather just the valve readjust. should I send back both the breather and flywheel puller?

the home made sponge was laced down & over the oil fill then laced w/ window screen so it's highly unlikely to be sucked in very good point you make.

I actully mowed (w/ the same home made breather) the overgrown in sections 3/4 acre back yard .didn't look back if I did I'd have observed oil spewing from the tiny opening in the HM sponge breather, covered the engine.

after I found the spewing oil, I removed HM filter added oil then reinstalled cap did the front.

the action of the throttle cable is very stickie should the wd40 be used at both ends oif cable?

besides the weak 1 gear acceleration due to dew mositened slitely overgrown lawn, she mowed great as usele.I probally need to sparpen up the blade how do you guys sharpen like what amount of angle on the edge?

I have hand held files I use to smooth my boat propeller also a handheld 7amp electric angle grinder w/ assorted disc.s

I missed cruising around on the snapper & the smell of cut grass.I'm proud of myself for being able to to farminiarlize myself enough to get the RER up and running most importantly mowing overgrown already a day before a few rain storms. also do you guys replace a start battery every year?


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

according to my chart I've ordered 3 parts that I do not need.
remember the starter w/ the metal gear instead of the plastic gear (sent back) go figure. 2 & 3 the fly wheel puller & breather.
or should I keep for a later time?

also do you guys replace a start battery every year?


Thanks TB


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Glad you got out on your mower. Too bad about the homemade oil cap.... if you hadn't caught it, it could have cost you your engine.
As far as using the WD-40 at both end of the cable..... like FredM already mentioned... You need to give the cable a good soak, get the oil inside the sheath and lubricate the whole thing. It's not rocket science, just lubrication.
When sharpening the blades, they sell a grinding wheel kit at a lot of mower parts departments. I don't like them, but it comes with a rig to make sure you grind evenly and keep the blade balanced, I use my angle grinder and a file. Follow the original profile as best you can.
As far as the Start battery, you should replace it at least 4 times a season. Just kidding! 
You just need to keep your battery charged, take it out of your tractor when you store it at the end of the season so it won't freeze, and charge it up now and again. A battery should last 7 to 10 years or more if properly taken care of.


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

I was able to lube both ends of the the throttle cable..

how long are these breathers supposed to last for?

I'll take a close look at the blade. thanks TB


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

2nd mow successful
I'm still waiting for response on weatther to send back the breather and the flywheel puller she runs fine so I'm just running her.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Whether you send the flywheel puller and the breather back, would be up to you. If you don't care about the money, that is already spent, and you don't mind having parts and tools handy if you may need them, keep 'em. If not, send them back. You can always order them again in the future if you want to.
Glad you are having success with the mower!


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## TheBrain (Jul 31, 2015)

snapper rer dead in the water
new thread.


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## glenstuff1 (Nov 19, 2021)

TheBrain said:


> good advice you lost me at step 4
> watched a dozen videos not one mentioned flywheel magnet and set the magneto please explain this procedure.
> 
> again
> ...


This is the exact same model I just acquired, Snapper sent me the manual for the Briggs, 219907-0131-E1 model number, videos I've viewed say to adjust both valves to .005 ......


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