# What type of oil for a B250?



## B250 (Jan 23, 2015)

Hi, Just bought a B250,what type of oil should I be using and how much?


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

80/90 Weight gear oil in rear end tranny. Hydraulic oil in hydraulics. I have manual at home if you need more precise info. I have B250 diesel myself.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

There is plug by brake pedals that you remove and hole will drip when rear end tranny is full. Dipstick on engine... 15w40 diesel oil. Hyraulic tank filler behind seat. I usually keep mine 3/4 full. Just use old welding rod as a dipstick. What else would you like to know?


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

Ive just learned I can use Universal Tractor Oil in my Case W3 backhoe so most likely in B250 hydraulics too.


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## B250 (Jan 23, 2015)

Thank you cariboo,

What type of Hydraulic oil should I be using, I have been searching for the manuals but haven't been able to find any.


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## B250 (Jan 23, 2015)

Im also trying to figure out how I can plumb in live remotes so I can operate a log splitter,


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

I just use regular hydraulic oil in my B250. I use a all season viscosity. The remote plug in for a hydraulic log splitter or other attachment I believe are to the left of the seat. Like if you were sitting down, behind your left leg.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

There should be a female and male fittings


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

I'll try to remember to take a pic today!


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

Caps with two holes I belive are for other hydraulic lines.


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## B250 (Jan 23, 2015)

Thanks again for all the help, I assumed that those two caps were just valve covers, I will buy some lines and see what happens.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

Sounds good. Be interesting to see some pics to when you are done


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

cariboo4x4 said:


> View attachment 23521
> 
> 
> Caps with two holes I belive are for other hydraulic lines.



Sorry to resurrect old thread, but do you know which cap would be to a pressure side and which one would be return? Very much appreciate it!


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

Not sure. I'll check into it.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

Thanks, right now my tractors has a loader on the front but the hydraulics do not seem to be plumbed very well and I want to redo them while I have time.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

I have some tractor guys getting back to me exactly what to do so I'll have better info for you Sat evening or Sunday. I have some photos but my online photo uploader has been locking up.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

Here where I live its 9:30 pm BC,Canada time. (pacific time) if that makes sense when I can reply next lol.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

Any time and ill read it when I'm on here next. I'm on east coast time and it's 7:30 am here now. Since I have the TF apo I see replies really quickly. I really appreciate the help, this place is awesome!


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

These are some photos I took of my B250 when I first got it and I was asking people what things were. 12 is the tranny fill plug and there is a small bolt on side you take out which will dribble oil when its full enough. Also in this photo you will see a metal tube joined with a rubber hose. This is the tube that gravity feeds the hydraulic pump for my loader. The rubber line below it is the return line from the loader spool valves to the reservoir tank behind seat.









Here is a photo of the rubber line (10) that returns oil to the reservoir tank. Last owner plumbed it in with a T fitting so he could top up reservoir tank. Do not overfill. Id say 70-80% full to allow for fluid to expand when warm. I forgot to put plug in once and a geyser of oil shot out as I lowered loader. Parts 11 on your machine may not be broken. One chain each descends from each of these to lower links of 3 point hitch.







The hydraulic line between caps 2 and 4 is a return line from my loader spool valves. Caps 1, 3, and 4 I was told by a guy on another tractor website "They are not hydraulic takeoff points, they are for adjustments of the valve chest. DO NOT undo them while the engine is running."

According to my operators manual the cap labeled 2 can be removed and a remote coupling added. A remote coupling would be a hydraulic line to your wood splitter. B250 dealerships back in the day sold a remte coupling that mounted to tractor. Cap 2 would be removed and a line was added with a banjo type end fitting. At other end of remote coupling line it had a self sealing end so dirt would not enter until a hydraulic farm implement was connected. My tractor does not have a remote coupling. I was told and read in my manual that you turn the "T" handle (isolating valve) fully out ccw for the 3 point hitch and fully in cw to operate the remote coupling. The handle that controls the height of the 3 point hitch arms then controls the remote coupling flow\pressure I expect when the "T" handle is turned cw fully in. Manual says make sure isolating valve is fully turned in or out.





Here's a photo of my tractor when I first got it.






Here is tractor after I got it home in 2010.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

Here is a photo of the remote coupling from my B250 owners manual:



I expect a shop could make you up a line, maybe not with the fitting shown in the diagram yet something that will work. You may have to thread a straight or elbow fitting into valve body and then attach a line to it. Then just cap off line when not in use.

Post some photos when you have a chance. Yes, this is one forum of several that has great people sharing great info. I am glad to be of help because many people on these sites have helped me fix my loader tractor and other machines.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

Does your tractor have a hydraulic tube running up to engine from bottom of front of reservoir tank on brake pedal side of tractor? Is there a hydraulic pump on right side of engine (as you are sitting on tractor)? I expect you may not have a pump and there is a cap where line would come out of tank to a pump up by engine.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

You may want to make a new thread exploring the uses of a B250 remote coupling. I may buy a used hydraulic winch that I may mount on rear of my tractor one day and use a remote coupling. I expect you would plumb in a return line from splitter to T on top of reservoir.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

LOL I got you confused with the guy that earlier wanted to attach a wood splitter. Sorry. Still, I look forward to you figuring out how to use the remote coupling and if the handle that controls the height of the 3 point hitch also controls the flow and pressure out of the cap 2 spot.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

Holy cow that was a lot of info, all of which was awesome! I will try and get some pictures tomorrow of my hydraulic set up to post, but basically, there is an add on isolation valve for my loader to shut off the up/down movement and then the return line runs back to the rear of the hydraulic reservoir with the same style "t". Is it possible to just run the "return" line from the loader valve on the arm to the "in" side of the 3-pt hitch control valve? fluid should always be flowing through the system if the pump is turning and it would just set it up so that the loader takes priority if trying to use both. I am trying to simplify all of the wiring/plumbing/mechanical workings to get it running reliably and safely. Pics to follow, and thanks again for the help thus far!


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

So I finally got some pictures and number them (in "Paint") so please excuse the mousepad hanwriting on the pictures. 

In this first picture I have numbered the ports of the loader valve. 1 is for "loader arm down pressure" which is not connected to the loader arm lift cylinder. 3 is for "loader arm up". 2 and 4 are the bucket roll. and 5 is the return. "1" t's off to the loader arm flow control valve in the second image and to the "tee" on the hydraulic reservoir in the third image.










This image is of the loader flow control (shutoff) valve. It only controls flow to the lift cylinder, but not the bucket cylinder. The input is from the loader control valve numbered 3 and the cylinder outs are on either side labeled "L" which is difficult to read. The other line on the valve is "1" that t's in to the loader arm downpressure from the first image to the reservoir return. Finally, it's not labeled, but the loader return ("5" in the previous image) is in the forefront here and is plumbed into the 3-pt hitch supply.










This last picture is just the rear of the tractor where line "1" returns to the hydraulic reservoir through a tee.










Basically, I want to simplify this setup. I would like to cap the line labeled "1" at the loader control, plumb line "3" directly to the loader arm lift cylinders through a tee, and run the return ("5") to the 3-pt hitch supply. This would eliminate the extra flow control valve, and extra hydraulic hoses that are just taking up space. Do you all see any problem with that? This would make it easy for me to add a couple QD's and let me remove the loader for the winter and build a nice front plow set up, and it would let me use the tee at the rear of the reservoir as a simple return for the rear remote that I would like to add from the 3-pt hitch port that was mentioned in the other post. Any and all input is appreciated!


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

I'll take photos of my loader spool valves and where the lines go so you can possibly replicate what I have. The hydraulic lines that come straight up out of your loader valves could have elbows in them so lines lay flat rather sprout straight up.


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

So I've been doing some thinking and I think I will still have to plumb the "down pressure" action valve to the return line of the tank, but I should still be able to get rid of all of the excess plumbing that runs to the flow control valve. Is this kind of what your spool valve is set up like cariboo4x4?


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

*B250 Loader spool valve hydraulic lines*

Here are photos of how the hydraulic lines are hooked up to my spool valve block on my B250. Possibly you can copy my set-up if your spool valve block has same configuration of ports.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

You should be able to delete your added on isolation valve if your B250 has the stock isolation valve as outlined in this photo. In last post I loaded the same photo twice by mistake.


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

So does these photos answer your question?


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

Yeah they definitely help, only question remaining, if my loader doesn't have down pressure and I don't plan on adding it, can I plug that work port on the spool valve or should that run to the tank return? Obviously the fewer line (aka the simpler the setup) the happier I'll be. Thanks again, you are a huge help cariboo!


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## cariboo4x4 (Feb 22, 2015)

Sorry for the late reply. So busy with outside projects. I'd try to plumb lines similar to my set-up if your spool valves are the same configuration. I have that extra port on top of spool valves to right of bucket lines. I expect my spool valves have two return lines, one for normal oil return, and one for the pressure relief valve.

You could plumb line 1 on the top of your spool valve into a T that takes oil to the down pressure port of your hydraulic boom cylinders. Plumb loader arms just like bucket cylinders. 

I expect your hydraulic pump is plumbed directly into side inlet of spool valve. Do you have the hydraulic pump up on right side of engine? Then plumb outlet side of spool valve into return line on tank behind seat. I can't figure out why your spool valves are plumbed the way they are? 

Your flow control valve is apart from your tractor rather fixed to front of tank under the front of the seat unlike my flow control valve. 

I see the right side of your spool valves has a cap on it. What is casted into spool valve to name that port that is capped off.

Unfortunately your spool valves for loader\bucket control is different than mine. I'd start by possibly taking your loader\bucket spool valve off entirely and taking it to a tractor\hydraulic shop to have someone tell you what each port is for. You may have a casting number or id tag somewhere on it so you could research it on google.

I also a member of another tractor site that has some old old timers on it that may be able to help you better if you want to pm me. I'm not sure if I am allowed to post it here.


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## Halscamp (Nov 27, 2014)

cariboo4x4 said:


> These are some photos I took of my B250 when I first got it and I was asking people what things were. 12 is the tranny fill plug and there is a small bolt on side you take out which will dribble oil when its full enough. Also in this photo you will see a metal tube joined with a rubber hose. This is the tube that gravity feeds the hydraulic pump for my loader. The rubber line below it is the return line from the loader spool valves to the reservoir tank behind seat.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





cariboo4x4 said:


> These are some photos I took of my B250 when I first got it and I was asking people what things were. 12 is the tranny fill plug and there is a small bolt on side you take out which will dribble oil when its full enough. Also in this photo you will see a metal tube joined with a rubber hose. This is the tube that gravity feeds the hydraulic pump for my loader. The rubber line below it is the return line from the loader spool valves to the reservoir tank behind seat.
> 
> 
> 
> ...





cariboo4x4 said:


> These are some photos I took of my B250 when I first got it and I was asking people what things were. 12 is the tranny fill plug and there is a small bolt on side you take out which will dribble oil when its full enough. Also in this photo you will see a metal tube joined with a rubber hose. This is the tube that gravity feeds the hydraulic pump for my loader. The rubber line below it is the return line from the loader spool valves to the reservoir tank behind seat.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks just like my 1959 B275 with Allied loader. Your bucket looks bigger though. Mine has a roof/windshield though.


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## Halscamp (Nov 27, 2014)

Looks just like my 1959 B275 with Allied loader. Your bucket looks bigger though. Mine has a roof/windshield.


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## Jean-Sebastien Moreau (Aug 21, 2019)

Hi I think that im not have the right deep stick on my b250 how much engine oil i have to put 

I put 5L and the Level is 2 " higher than the max on the deep stick 

Can you help me


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Have you replaced the oil filter as well? If you don't fill the oil filter before installing the new one, you may have to run the tractor for a little bit to fill the filter.


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## Jean-Sebastien Moreau (Aug 21, 2019)

Yes a did that but after all im over the max by 2" and i have one another Litre to put in for a total of 6L

What is the longer of your deep stick


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## Jean-Sebastien Moreau (Aug 21, 2019)

I suspect that my deep stick have been changed during his life


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## VT_IH250 (Apr 10, 2017)

I just sold my tractor, but I'm pretty sure I used 7 quarts of oil including filling the filter. Hope it helps! 

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tractor Forum mobile app


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## Jean-Sebastien Moreau (Aug 21, 2019)

VT_IH250 said:


> I just sold my tractor, but I'm pretty sure I used 7 quarts of oil including filling the filter. Hope it helps!
> 
> Sent from my SM-G930T using Tractor Forum mobile app



Ok thanks!


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