# Replacing the inner snap ring on a loose pto shaft



## Tippmann98 (Oct 12, 2011)

*Replacing the inner snap ring on a loose pto shaft (PICS)*

I have a 1965 Ford 4000 3 cylinder diesel with independent PTO and 8 speed tranny. While brush hogging last summer the pto shaft slid out of the tractor, cut up the seal and fluid was leaking everywhere. Originally I was told it would require a split to replace that inner snap ring so I replaced the seal to stop the leak and just didn't use that tractor's PTO anymore. 

Fast forward to about a week ago and I started reading up on this problem as much as I could, mostly on this forum. I also bought a service manual. I found all sorts of good information but no pictures or a video. I'm a visual learner so I will be posting some pictures for anyone in the future who may have this problem. 

The first step in fixing this problem is to drain the diff fluid. There's a lot of fluid in there so use a 5 gallon bucket. Then I engaged the PTO lever. Not doing this could result in a bigger headache so this is important. 

Take the 6 bolts off the pto housing on the back end. I then grabbed a drift punch and put it thru the hole on the pto shaft and spun it around as I pulled on it. It took awhile but the shaft finally came out. As you can see in the picture, that inner snap ring was bent and just resting on the shaft instead of in the groove. 

I also took a picture of the "infamous" thrust washer that will fall down part way. Using a broomstick and an excessive amount of grease should hold that washer in place long enough to slide the shaft back in. Hopefully this will be of help to some of you in the future.


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## MBTRAC (May 28, 2012)

:thumbsup:Great Post !!!! (Brings back memories of working on Ford tractors years ago..........)


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Excellent post!! You can see skid marks on the shaft where the bearing bushing has moved before the snap ring broke. 

You are going to check out the broomstick procedure. Good luck!! You won't be the first to do it. 

Check your manual, but my guess is that your rear differential & hydraulic reservoir holds about 12 gallons of fluid.


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## Tippmann98 (Oct 12, 2011)

I thought I read it would take 26 quarts but thats no where near 12 gallons. I'll have to look again.


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

If you have an I&T shop manual, it should have fluid capacities up near the front of the manual. Doesn't really matter, just fill it till it overflows out of the fluid level check port on the rear differential section.

Regarding the solid PTO shaft, please look it over carefully - it may be a frozen PTO shaft (rusted in position).


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## Tippmann98 (Oct 12, 2011)

I got everything back together today. I used more grease than I was expecting to get that washer to stay in place. It'd stay for a couple of seconds and then slide down. Obviously not long enough for me to get the shaft in place. It took about 10 tries of hurriedly sliding the shaft in before it finally went all the way into place. 

It took roughly 7.5 gallons of hy-tran fluid to fill it up.


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Outstanding..You got 'er done!! Remember, the alternative is to split the tractor. 

Incidentally, my I&T shop manual calls for splitting the tractor, and have a helper hold the thrust washer in place with a long screwdriver (thru the split) whilst you shove the shaft in. BUT, if you don't have a helper, they state to use "heavy" grease (thru the split) to hold the washer in position, then install the shaft. I guess that's where somebody got the idea to use a broomhandle with grease from the rear. 

In the future, I will specify "heavy" or "stiff" grease (maybe wheel bearing grease??). You are the MAN that did the job - any other recommendations??


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## Tippmann98 (Oct 12, 2011)

I used the only grease I had which was Bel-Ray Waterproof Grease. I didn't know this before I started but coincidentally it's designed for wheel bearings and linkages. The product description says it won't "melt or run". Not sure what a stiffer grease would be but I would suggest something better than what I used. 

The only recommendation I have is to become educated on every step of the project before you start to disassemble it. Also if the shaft isn't sliding in all the way, it's because the washer slid down and is in the way. Do not just pound the shaft in. That will bend the washer and you'll have a big mess then.


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## stephen oudersluys (Oct 23, 2019)

Tippmann98 said:


> *Replacing the inner snap ring on a loose pto shaft (PICS)*
> 
> I have a 1965 Ford 4000 3 cylinder diesel with independent PTO and 8 speed tranny. While brush hogging last summer the pto shaft slid out of the tractor, cut up the seal and fluid was leaking everywhere. Originally I was told it would require a split to replace that inner snap ring so I replaced the seal to stop the leak and just didn't use that tractor's PTO anymore.
> 
> ...


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## stephen oudersluys (Oct 23, 2019)

Do you have a part number for that rear snap ring. The diagram that comes up for my year appears incorrect. Shows the bearing sitting inside the cover with two different size snap rings. Everything I've ordered is wrong. Your setup looks exact to what I have. Any help would be appreciated.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

stephen oudersluys said:


> Do you have a part number for that rear snap ring. The diagram that comes up for my year appears incorrect. Shows the bearing sitting inside the cover with two different size snap rings. Everything I've ordered is wrong. Your setup looks exact to what I have. Any help would be appreciated.


The post you are replying to is seven years old and it is six years since member Tippmann98 visited the forum.
What model and year is your tractor?
What type of PTO does it have?


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## stephen oudersluys (Oct 23, 2019)

It's a 1972 ford 4000SU independent pto. All the diagrams I see show two different size snap rings, one on the shaft behind the bearing and one in cover housing. The one I have is like the picture from the previous post. Two snap rings same size on the shaft on both sides of the bearing and the bearing is pressed into the rear of the tractor.


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## stephen oudersluys (Oct 23, 2019)




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## stephen oudersluys (Oct 23, 2019)




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## stephen oudersluys (Oct 23, 2019)

This is a picture of the outer snap ring. The inner ring is severely bent but appears to be the same size as the front one.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

See attached pdf:
As I understand this, the bearing support like in the post above, is on tractors assembled 65/11 - 66.
A 1972 should have a separate housing that supports the bearing (#74 with square flange). This type of arrangement need the larger snap ring, #67, in order to hold the bearing in the housing.
If you have an arrangement like the one in the post above, you do not need snap ring #67.

In both cases you need two snap rings #66, one on each side of the bearing, securing it to the shaft.
The parts listing is not clear, it has two snap rings (168104 and BB7045). It does not say which one to use. One row says you need a quantity of two, the next row says one. That row for both snap rings have the comment: "(Prod Date) after 01-JAN-1965;", well that is all the tractors that were made...

Do not bother with New Holland on this. Try to get suitable snap rings from a specialized supplier.


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## the key of knowledge (Jul 12, 2020)

Was reading your progress, sounds like you did OK. Try Vaseline it works great on holding stuff in place. Keep it in the fridge with the butter and it will hold everything. Used to use it when rebuilding auto and standard transmissions. Should work just as well on tractors.


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