# "Car port" type roof help needed



## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

I am looking to add a car port type roof to the back side of my shed. I am thinking something 8 to 10 feet out, and the lenght of the shed. Something I can store things under to at least get them out of the rain, if not inside. 

Now my Q is how to attach it to the shed wall? I had thought of attaching the rafters to the toplate aera of the shed wall, and also attaching it to the rafter tails as it angles out. I plan to have 3 post at the "outside" end ot the roof, holding up a beam that the new roof rafters lay on. How should I treat the old roof/new roof intersection? Should I lay it flush with the old one, and just contune the shingles out, of should it be steped down a little, to give a little drip edge off the old roof, onto the new one? 

Clear as mud huh? Some times its hard to explane what I am thinking about. Any input for me? Any thing you feel I am forgetting? Thanks!!


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

This is the back wall of the shed...

<img src=http://www.tractorforum.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=2901>


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

Oh and ya, I know the blocks are set wrong. 

I have already relaid some of them corectly, and have a few more to do. Hey what can I say, I was not thinking.





I have more pictures of the shed under the "My Shed" thred I have going a little bit down. Thanks for any help!!!


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## Durwood (Sep 16, 2003)

I would nail a 2 by 6 on the existing facia board of the shed. Then i would nail hangers for 2 by 6s to set in on that new board . Where the new and old roof meet which would be close to even height i would have some coil stock aluminum bent so it goes all the way and is 6 inches down on top the new lean to and 6 inches up under the shingles on the shed roof.
Wish i knew how to diagram it for you Paul of 2 by 6s for the ceiling of the new roof. You do want a minimum of 2 by 6s for the new roof. And 16 inches on center at that for a span of 8-10 feet.


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## catmando (Dec 18, 2004)

*Lean to*

It looks like it will have a pretty shallow slope to it. If you go out 8 to 10 feet, and match the existing slope it will put the eves close to the ground. Your shed doesn't look like it is much larger than 10 or 12 foot long?

I think that I would use treated 4 X 4s and bury the lower end at least a couple of feet in the ground. Should really go as deep as the code calls for footings. This is because of the open area. The wind can get under the roof, and cause uplift.

You can either fasten the rafters as you mentioned, or nail a plate along the wall and fasten the rafters to it. I would only nail the rafters to one place on the existing rafters rather than on the plate and the rafter overhang. With your foundation you might get differential settlement.

If you go with the new plate, the roof will be lower, and you will have to seal the overhang somewhat so that water doesn't get between the roofs. Unless you drop the facia to the new roof. If you go with tieing the roofs together you will have to peal the old roofing back about 6" and slide the new roofing under that flap. I would also seal the overlap with tar. This is because you will probably not be able to pull the nails out of the existing roofing without ripping the roofing somewhat.

Hope this helps.


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## Durwood (Sep 16, 2003)

If you go with tieing the roofs together you will have to peal the old roofing back about 6" and slide the new roofing under that flap.  

That is where i was talking about using aluminum where they meet. I don't think i would attempt to make the rooflines the same pitch. Just go out the distance you want with the new roof and then put it at the height that works. You need at least a 3/12 pitch for regular shingles to work and seal right.


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## Ingersoll444 (Sep 17, 2003)

I was not thinking of matching the roof pitck. I was thinking of 3-12 for the new part.


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## catmando (Dec 18, 2004)

*Lean to*

Durwood I read your comment right after I posted mine. I think that it was posted after I started to type my post.

Your idea of nailing the rafters on using the metal clips would take care of the roofing questions. Although what would you think of using iceguard rather than the aluminum flashing strip? I think that it would give a more positive. 

From the picture it looks like he won't be able to get a 3/12 slope on the roof unless he uses the ends for access. It doesn't look like his eves on the existing building are much over 8 foot high. Unless Ingersol is shorter than I am.


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

Well from the looks of the shed and its heights to which will become the highest portion of a new roof that gets extended out, until you put sufficient pitch on it, its going to bring the eve down to a pretty low height. May be sufficient to walk under but probably not by a lot.....I have a low hanging eve on the back of my barn and its a real pain in the backside........but I had no other choice. 

Why not consider a standalone shed, all it would envolve is a couple of more 4 x 4s and some cross brace materials, and make it so you have decent height on the low end, and it will give y ou decent heighjt on the high end you could possibly drive your other tractor etc under..


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