# Headlights??



## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

I have noticed when i am mowing, and need the headlights to finish up close to dark they are going dim whenever i hit a bump in the yard, and then when i hit another rough spot they will brighten back up. But then sometimes they just go dim to bright without any reason.. Any ideas what could cause this??


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

It sounds like a bad ground in the lights.Check the ground on the frame,and also check the bulb sockets,for loseness/corrosion,etc. Let me know what you found.Also check the bulbs,to see if the glass is loose from the base.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

jhngardner367 said:


> It sounds like a bad ground in the lights.Check the ground on the frame,and also check the bulb sockets,for loseness/corrosion,etc. Let me know what you found.Also check the bulbs,to see if the glass is loose from the base.


 Will do, and get back to you a.s.a.p....


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

wjjones said:


> Will do, and get back to you a.s.a.p....



Ok i went through everything, and even put new wiring connector ends on, and still nothing any ideas??


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## Mickey (Aug 14, 2010)

Obviously a bad connection, you just not found it yet. Is the ground path through a separate wire or does it run through the chassis? If chassis you may have a poor electrical path through the hinged hood. Numerous other possibilities.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Everything is grounded to the chasis but a new problem has arose now i am having to charge it everytime to start it. I will mow for 20 or 30 mins, and when i turn the pto off it wont come back on, and at the same time when i turn off the tractor it wont start back....it wont even click through the solenoid. I can put it on the charger for about 20 mins, and it will start right up pto, and everything works except for the headlights which i have narrowed down to a bad switch..until i shut it off again?? It seems as if it is running on the stator/alternator alone after the battery is drained, and not charging.. The power gets so low the pto will not engage, and the engine will not restart after being shut off. At one point it backfired through the carb but didnt have enough power or so it seemed to fire.. If you view my other thread ys4500? you can see the other issues that may be part of the whole problem in this thread as well i think??


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

First,check the fuse.If it's ok,use a voltmeter to check the wire(s),on the stator.If it has two wires,one will have a diode,near the connector,on the stator side of the connector.That one should read 11.4/14.5vdc.The other is ac,and should read 20/30vac. Also,if it has an external regulator/rectifier,the output voltages will have the same readings,on the input wires,but 12,4/14.9 on the outputwire.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

You might also do a test on the battery.First,make sure it's fully charged.Then,connect a voltmeter to it,and start the engine,while watching the meter.If it drops below 10vdc,when cranking,it's weak.It should build voltage to 12.5/13vdc,while running at mid/high rpm.If it doesn't,and the stator checked out,shut off the tractor,leaving the meter connected,and see if the voltage drops/keeps dropping,with the key off.If it does,replace the battery.Let me know what you find.


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## dangeroustoys56 (Jul 26, 2010)

Didnt you just put a new battery in it? Somethings definitley wacky - PTO's use alot of juice , but stator should charge the battery . 

Did you try a new diode off the stator? Its beginning to sound like either the PTO , starter or something is killing the battery- like its a constant drain .


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

dangeroustoys56 said:


> Didnt you just put a new battery in it? Somethings definitley wacky - PTO's use alot of juice , but stator should charge the battery .
> 
> Did you try a new diode off the stator? Its beginning to sound like either the PTO , starter or something is killing the battery- like its a constant drain .



Yep its a brand new 420 ca battery, and i tore it completely down yesterday took off the flywheel inspected the stator/alternator is what my book calls it. I still do not see any place on the pigtail that would indicate it has a diode?? The wires look the same size from stator to plug, and do not change in size at all.. I blew all the plug connectors out with the air compressor grass, dirt, etc, and re-connected them. The only thing i can come up with in troubleshooting is the regulator has quit working?? I charged the battery on a 2amp charge until it was back to full charge according to the chargers meter, and when i went out this morning it was about half dead again. All grounds are clean, new battery cable end bolts, etc.. new solenoid as well...??... I forgot to mention the engine will run with the battery cable off if that helps any.. as if to indicate the stator is putting out juice..


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

Be careful removing the battery cable with the engine running. I know that B&S regulators can be damaged if they are not connected to a battery when the engine is running. Had that on an Ariens Zoom mower. The wire from the regulator to the battery pulled out of the plug at the regulator and fried the regulator.

The only way you will be able to determine what is wrong is if you measure your voltages with a multimeter as jhngardner367 said. You need AC voltage coming from the stator under the flywheel, and DC voltage coming from the regulator to the battery. If the regulator has internal diodes, and they are bad, the battery will drain back through the regulator and leave you with a dead battery. A regulator may be putting out voltage, but if it isn't enough (about 14-14.5v at wide open throttle), it won't charge the battery. Check the ground cable where it mounts to the frame from the battery. Many manufacturers use one of the engine mount bolts to secure it, and if the bolt loosens, weird things start to happen electrically.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Hey,Country Boy,do the regulator/rectifiers still ground through their casings? I'm wondering if it didn't lose the ground,and fry the regulator/rectifier?THe engine would still run,being magneto ignition,instead of coil/battery ignition,but it wouldn't charge,if the reg/rec wasn't grounded,right?


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

I just wanted to let you know that i did find another ground set-up behind the engine in front of the steering gear... It was directly beneath the battery box i checked it, and it was not a good ground connection by any standard.. I relocated it to another section of frame where it is more accessible, and can be seen to monitor its condition.. I dont think it was dirty enough to have been the problem though.. I did however run it with the battery cable loose, and i have jumped it off with my truck so maybe i did fry the regulator??


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

It's possible,but you won't really know for certain,until you use it.If it acts the same,I'd lean toward replacing the regulator/rectifier.


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## wjjones (May 28, 2010)

Ok i think i fixed it? And it could be a duh moment for me because i didnt see it to start with...










The connector in the picture is the one that comes from the regulator (red wire) the orange wire runs the headlight power. I was looking it over one more time, and discovered the red wire had somehow work back out of the connector housing. The connector was still hooked up but the wire had came out of the plastic completely. I pressed it back into the connector, and plugged it back to the other side, and now the headlights work... I think this should also fix my other not charging problem as well.. Thankyou to all for your input... I hope this fixed both problems...


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Glad you got it! Let us know if it's ok! I guess we all forgot the "rule of K.I.S.S.= Keep It Simple, STUPID" LOL!


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## Country Boy (Mar 18, 2010)

jhngardner367 said:


> Hey,Country Boy,do the regulator/rectifiers still ground through their casings? I'm wondering if it didn't lose the ground,and fry the regulator/rectifier?THe engine would still run,being magneto ignition,instead of coil/battery ignition,but it wouldn't charge,if the reg/rec wasn't grounded,right?


I do believe they do ground through the casing, as there are only three wires on them, AC/B+/AC. The rectifier/regulator should be bolted to the engine block, so they usually have a pretty good ground. Kohler used to use an external regulator that was bolted to the tractor chassis, and I have seen them lose ground due to galvanic corrosion between the steel frame and the aluminum casing. That, or battery acid being spilled on them because they failed and cooked the battery.


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