# Box Scraper Scarifiers



## Flip Flop Farmer (Aug 11, 2021)

I am new to tractor ownership and have an old Ford1000 tractor. I recently bought an old box blade or box scraper...I don't know the difference...and it doesn't have any scarifiers. Does anybody recognize this brand or have any suggestions on what to buy that would work for this? Thanks


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

That is a solid looking box blade, but I wonder how the scarifiers were held in place?, mine has a lug welded either side of the opening and a pin goes through the lugs and the adjustment hole in the scarifier.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

This is how the scarifiers are held on my boxblade, a simple arrangement if you have a welder and some flat bar.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Mine is the same as yours Fred. I wonder if Flip Flops is the type that uses wedges?


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I'd be curious to see the wedge type, I can remember the wedge type setup used on the tool bars that used scarifier shanks, but I am not sure of how these would work with those slots in the bar, I have tried to picture the wedge being driven down into the slot and against the shank, I suppose this would work Bill.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

I've seen the shanks. they look similar, but have notches to hook on the tool carrier and the wedge keeps them in. I think this is more of a Gannon thing?!?


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## nota4re (Jul 3, 2021)

You probably need something like THIS which is what Land Pride and some other current box scrappers use - mine included. (That said, I think I would prefer the pins because the clips are a PITA.)


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I wonder why there were no scarifiers with the unit?, it would have had these originally.


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## unsquidly (Jul 13, 2021)

Flip Flop Farmer said:


> I am new to tractor ownership and have an old Ford1000 tractor. I recently bought an old box blade or box scraper...I don't know the difference...and it doesn't have any scarifiers. Does anybody recognize this brand or have any suggestions on what to buy that would work for this? Thanks
> View attachment 74079



Looks to me like that is an old Gill brand box blade......If I remember correctly their shanks had notches on them that somehow locked into the bar......Sorry not to be more help but it has been several years since I have seen one.....Most Gill brand box blades had the shank bar that would flip up out of the way however......This one might have been modified......


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## SidecarFlip (Mar 25, 2021)

Agri Supply www.agrisupply.com offers all types of shanks and points (including replacement bolt on and weld on) on line at reasonable cost. Where I get mine at. If that was my box blade, I'd flip it upside down and apply hard rod to the lower edge as it looks like the lower edge of the side sheets are eroding away from contact with the abrasive ground. Something I have to keep up on constantly here as our sandy loam is real hard on wearing away steel in sliding contact with the ground. Just hard rodded the the steel skid shoes on my NH disc machine.


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## Vigo (Oct 8, 2021)

I remember seeing this thread 2 months ago and thought I had replied and already said this, but.. nope! Anyway, there's not really a need for any sort of strap/loop thing for the cross-pins that will go through the shanks and set their height. They only keep them from falling out. The right kind of ripper shank for this will have notches in the front or back of it, one for every pin hole, and when the ground pushes the ripper tooth backward, either the front of the bar will lean forward until that notch seats against the front edge of those openings on top of that box section, or the rear will push backward and seat the bottom rear of the box section. So when the teeth are not 'loaded' they could be lifted up and down, but if the tooth digs against the ground the notch in the front will lock to the frame and the tooth wont be able to move up OR down until that force is released. I can't claim to be any kind of expert, but that's how mine works which is the only reason i know this.


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