# 231S hydrostatic steering cylinder



## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

I need to repair or replace the hyd steering cylinder on my 2001 231 S. I've searched the web and none of the cylinders I've found look like the one on my tractor. Notice the linkage rod in pic #2. I can't figure out how to seperate the rod from the cylinder. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Looks like you have a piece of work ahead of you. The ball joints you asked about thread into the ends of the cylinder rod. If I were doing this I think I would try and remove the four bolts where the cylinder mounts to the axle beam, remove both outer tie rod ends, both the hydraulic lines, and try to get the entire unit out as a package. Never having done this, I'm not sure it's possible without first moving the axle beam forward away from the engine by whatever means that requires.


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## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

Fedup said:


> Looks like you have a piece of work ahead of you. The ball joints you asked about thread into the ends of the cylinder rod. If I were doing this I think I would try and remove the four bolts where the cylinder mounts to the axle beam, remove both outer tie rod ends, both the hydraulic lines, and try to get the entire unit out as a package. Never having done this, I'm not sure it's possible without first moving the axle beam forward away from the engine by whatever means that requires.


Yes sir, I agree it's not a simple repair. I started just as you mentioned, to take it out as an assembly, but the bolts that hold the cylinder on are too long to come out...they hit the belt pulley. I'm pretty sure the axle beam will need to be moved, in order to pull the cylinder out. Now to figure out which bolts/nuts need to be loosened or removed. Thank you for your input.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

The parts list shows the bolts are 45mm in length. How far you can back one out should give you an idea how much is still inside and probably how far the axle will need to go forward. Maybe you can jack the engine, loosen the front end support bolts and back them out far enough to gain the clearance needed?


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## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

Fedup said:


> The parts list shows the bolts are 45mm in length. How far you can back one out should give you an idea how much is still inside and probably how far the axle will need to go forward. Maybe you can jack the engine, loosen the front end support bolts and back them out far enough to gain the clearance needed?


Thank you sir, knowing the length of the bolts helps. Does your list give a part number for the cylinder? I haven't been able to find an image that looks like mine.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

AGCO parts site lists it as 0013901U91 steering cylinder. Rather unusual to see a U in the number, but there it is. I see no mention of any components, just an assembly. Once out, you may have to rely on matching seals, provided that's all it needs.


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## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

Fedup,
I have the cylinder removed and on the work bench. There are snap rings on each end. I removed them and don't know how to go forward with disassembly in order to replace the seals. Do you have any experience with this? Thank you so much for your time and knowledge.


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## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

No experience at all with that particular tractor's cylinder, but I would think if there is an external snap ring, once removed, the head(or gland, depending on terminology) can be driven into the barrel a short distance which will expose an internal wire ring. Once that is removed, the shaft, piston and all will come out. That is a relatively common design. A photo of what you have might help confirm that.


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## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

Fedup said:


> No experience at all with that particular tractor's cylinder, but I would think if there is an external snap ring, once removed, the head(or gland, depending on terminology) can be driven into the barrel a short distance which will expose an internal wire ring. Once that is removed, the shaft, piston and all will come out. That is a relatively common design. A photo of what you have might help confirm that.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I'm pretty sure I'm right on the cylinder design. If you can clean/sand some of the dirt/rust/paint from the exposed part it will probably slide in a bit easier. I would try to find a short piece of pipe or maybe a large socket to use as a driver it will make the job easier and reduce chances of nicking the shaft.


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## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

Fedup said:


> I'm pretty sure I'm right on the cylinder design. If you can clean/sand some of the dirt/rust/paint from the exposed part it will probably slide in a bit easier. I would try to find a short piece of pipe or maybe a large socket to use as a driver it will make the job easier and reduce chances of nicking the shaft.


Thank you very much!! I'll let you know how it goes.


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## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

Piece of cake..lol Exactly like you said. Now I need to order the seal kit, would you happen to know the part number?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

As I mentioned earlier there is no breakdown on the cylinder components. Your best bet is matching the parts individually. Would probably only half the price (or less) of a factory OEM seal kit.


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## KDWJR (Jul 11, 2021)

Fedup said:


> As I mentioned earlier there is no breakdown on the cylinder components. Your best bet is matching the parts individually. Would probably only half the price (or less) of a factory OEM seal kit.


Thank you again sir, you have helped me very much.


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