# wider stance?



## O-o (Dec 9, 2015)

Is there any down side to switching my rear tires to get a wider stance while keeping the tread pointing the correct way (pointing forward).

I live on hills and am concerned about rollovers. I do have ROP and a seatbelt too.

Yanmar 2210D w/ 5'scraper box and 5' FEL


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

With the Yanmar tractor you want to be sure the axle flange is rounded where it meets the axle shaft itself. Some models of Yanmar, along with some of the John Deere's made by Yanmar, were machined square from the axle to the axle flange, and those axles will break the flange off the end of the axle if they are heavily loaded/worked hard with the wheels widened out. It has to do with the stress distribution and the propensity for the square cut shafts to crack.

Easy to check, just look inside the wheel where the flange is a machined part of the axle. Rounded is good, square is bad.


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## O-o (Dec 9, 2015)

RC Wells - thanks for your response. I'm not quite sure exactly where you describe to look for a square flange. I have some background in a machine shop, but still not sure where you suggest to look.

Do I have to remove the wheel to inspect this? Outside view? 

My initial measurements suggest about 3.5 inches wider stance per side after wheel reversal. (not much, but it may be safer)

I appreciate your insights!


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

You should be able to inspect the axle from behind the tractor, look to the outside of the bearing in the rear axle housing where the shaft exits. You probably have a grease fitting at that outer bearing, most Yanmar's do, so likely have been down in that area many times. What you will see a short section of axle, then the round flange to which the wheel bolts. 

This is not the round flange itself to which the wheel bolts, but the machine work where the axle is cut down from the flange by a lathe during the factory machining process.

Think "T" as you are inspecting. The disc part of the axle to which the wheel bolts it the cross at the top of the T and the axle shaft is the vertical bar of the T. What you are looking for is the union between the T top, and T vertical. Rounded machine work that flows the top to the vertical is the one that can handle the most tress, a sharp corner from the top to the vertical means that is a weak area.

If you are familiar with how an engine intake or exhaust valve looks, they have a rounded area from the top of the valve to the stem. A bolt has a square cut shoulder from the top to the shank. 

The tractor manual should tell you the acceptable wheel width adjustments, and how to adjust the wheels. Do not exceed the width the manual recommends.


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## O-o (Dec 9, 2015)

RC Wells said:


> You should be able to inspect the axle from behind the tractor, look to the outside of the bearing in the rear axle housing where the shaft exits. You probably have a grease fitting at that outer bearing, most Yanmar's do, so likely have been down in that area many times. What you will see a short section of axle, then the round flange to which the wheel bolts.
> 
> This is not the round flange itself to which the wheel bolts, but the machine work where the axle is cut down from the flange by a lathe during the factory machining process.
> 
> ...


Well, I got a flashlight and a mirror and took a close look at where the flange meets the end of the axle - cant see nothing. The flange seems to taper a bit and get covered by the axle end. No view of the actual axle and no zirc fitting there.

Also, I looked in my manual and it suggested I run the wheels in the most wide stance possible for hills. They suggest swapping the rear wheels to accomplish this or mounting the dish on the other side of it's mount on the rim IF set up this way. Mine is not bolted, just welded to the rim. 

By the way, I've only had this tractor for 3 weeks and still learning the details. As such, I greatly appreciate the advice!


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If you see it taper out to the wheel flange you are good to go.

I would recommend you pick up both the service manual and the operators manual for the tractor. Yanmar tractors are among the better small tractors and will outlast most owners when the tractor is taken care of. John Deere rebadged Yanmar tractors for their small tractors for years, until John Deere went to the Chinese tractors, and even now they still use Yanmar diesel engines in the small utility tractors.


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## O-o (Dec 9, 2015)

*manuals*

I have the operations manual, which I read before climbing into the seat, but will soon be buying the service manual. I feel better knowing that I have a round axle thanks to your advice.

I put in some hours with the wheels wider. Swapping out gave me over 5 inches wider. It doesn't sound like much, but that 10% wider stance gave me a much better feeling on slopes. 

I am now waiting for my next tractor toy to arrive. I ordered a wheel spinner = http://www.ebay.com/itm/171796349184

I just need to figure out where to position it on the steering wheel. I'm thinking about 8 o'clock. Any opinions RCW?


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

For what it's worth, I hold my steering wheel between 10 and 11.


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## Thomas (Nov 1, 2006)

"I just need to figure out where to position it on the steering wheel. I'm thinking about 8 o'clock. Any opinions RCW?"

Ahhhh the suicide knob as we call it in yester years. 

"I'm thinking about 8 o'clock."
That's sound good,for easier on the arm wrist more so if doing loader work.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Steering knob position is the operators preference. One thing to consider is if the tractor has hydrostatic steering, the wheel can be turned with the engine off, so the knob will end up other than where it was original installed when the tractor is started again.

I had a Massey that drove me nuts over that issue, so I would always make sure my steering wheel was left alone after I shut it off. Grab the wheel as I exited the cab, and it would change position of the "spinner knob."


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