# Yanmar FEL with chains issue



## Furndog (Sep 21, 2010)

I have a Yanmar YM240 with a front end loader. I have aftermarket wheels from a Kubota on the tractor, they are 12.4-16. I attempted to plow snow, and even with the differential lock engage, the back wheels just spin and spin in anything more than 3" of snow on the slightest incline.

I purchased double link chains from tirechain.com and spend $350+ to have them delivered. I went to put them on and realized there is a support bar going from the center of the tractor to the rear axle on either side and it only clears the inside of the tires by about 1/2", not nearly enough clearance for the chains to be installed and clear the support bars.

Does anyone know if these bars are essential for the FEL to work or be stable? I can either cut them off or I can cut them and have a welder fashion support bars that arch or step inward to give me the clearance I need for the chains to install and spin with my wheels.

I uploaded a couple of photos with red arrows pointing to the bars I am describing.

I am sure one of you loyal members has encountered this situation before. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Furndog, you need to return the chains and get a ballast box or impliment hanging from that 3 point and some fluid in those rear wheels and that alone will far exceed the chains.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

In other words, you have no weight on the rear, and even cutting those supports (not advised) and chaining up will do little for added traction.


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## Furndog (Sep 21, 2010)

Tractor Beam - thanks for the input. My first step was to pay $150 to have 38 gallons of Rim Guard put in my rear tires. That added nearly 400 pounds of weight to the rear, but it is still crap. 

Do you think there is an issue with altering the support bars so there is clearance? Are those bars indeed support for the FEL? Thanks for your input!


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

I would say yes definatley. You could move them over but I would certainly maintain the integrity. You need about another 500 or 600 pounds canting on that 3 point though. It will make the difference. Are you sure the 4 wheel drive is engaging? Stupid question but my gosh, the front wheels should be spinning before the rear wheels, even if only slightly before! You just need more weight on the rear end, and canting an impliment or ballast box will make a big difference. Try eating lots of carbs!:lmao:


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

I suppose also that you've moved the wheels out as far as they'll go...blah blah blah? Nice tractor by the way!


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## Furndog (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks Beam. One thing I should mention, it is only 2 wheel drive. I will definitely add some more weight to the rear and load up on the carbs too!


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Probably wrong, but I don't think most front end loaders have that support bar going to the back. I know mine doesn't. But then, if it came from the factory that way I'm sure it is needed. Is there possibly anyplace a little further toward the center of the rear axle that you could attach the support bar? That is some mean looking front tires for a 2 wheel drive.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Winston, I know the Kubotas have them. Furndog, are the wheels moved out as far as they'll go? Christmas is around the corner. Better get some bigger pants!:lmao: Advertise for a used ballast box on CL or something. Shouldn't be to hard to come up with something. You'd think.


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## GreenFlyer (Feb 4, 2010)

Do not cut those supports off. Add fluid to the tires and/or a ballast box. Ask the manufacturer if there are spacers you can add to the inside of the wheels if you still want to try to use chains.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

It's a lateral brace, but if you could move it over a bit, it would still maimtain the integrity. Adding weight to the 3 point like a chunck of cement about 600 or more pounds would make that tractor unstoppable. In terms of physics, 600 pounts canted off the back would easily exhert 1000 pounds or more on those rear wheels, and this should be your first stop then the tractor mods in my opinion.


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

If I had $350+ tied up in chains I would make every effort to make room for them.


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## Furndog (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks for all the input guys. 

My wife's uncle came over, he is an engineer by trade - been around the block about 10 times. We took the back wheel off (much heavier now that it is filled with RimGuard), removed the bolts that connect the support bar to the axle (one snapped off, one we were able to thread off), sawzalled the welds off the support bar where it connects to the vertical column in the center of the tractor. He made a template and is going to have a bars made for the left and right side at his shop. The new bars will have a bend in them giving me at least 2" clearance from the widest part of the rear tires. 

I will take some photos and post them once the new support bars are in place and I am rocking and rolling with my new chains.

I will also add some more weight to the rear end! 

Thanks again for all the input everyone.


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## svcguy (Dec 21, 2010)

Your wife's uncle is right on the money. The support bar is for lateral stress and is important. That transfers shock loads straight back on the tractor casting, preventing the tractor from bending in the middle on an impact. While not all loaders have them, the geometry and engineering of the loader may or may not be dependent on it. If you simply removed it, you may find your tractor broken in half one day. The failure of a major casting like the bell / transmission housing is one of the more challenging repairs going. You don't want to go there. A modification to provide more clearance will not pose a problem, as long as longitudinal strength is not compromised, something an engineer understands well. Increased tire width also creates lower traction, but with chains and enough weight to counter the loader hanging off the front you will be fine. Good luck.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Someone else said that too! Furndog, you gotta hit us with pictures of the remodel!


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## Furndog (Sep 21, 2010)

OK guys, the project is complete, less the new support bars being painted. They have one coat of primer on them. Here are a few photos, one with no wheels and no bars, one with the new support bar from the side, one of the new support bar from the top, and one of the tractor from the side with the chains on the wheels.

I did some plowing today and could plow uphill with the bucket all the way down on the driveway and did not get stuck once! When I went to push some of piles from two weeks ago, the wheels wanted to slip a bit, but I just lifted the bucket a bit and it was fine.

Thanks to everyone for all your comments and help. Without tractorforum.com and your helpful information, I probably would have just cut those bars figuring they were not needed.

p.s. My uncle welded 7" plates to the support columns and then bolted the new support bars to the plates, so if I ever want to take them off, I do not need to cut the welds off.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Sure looks like a nicely done job Furndog! Glad to hear you're up and running! I can see a 4 wheel drive conversion in your future! Hope you continue to hang out at the forum!


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## winston (Aug 19, 2008)

Well alright! Glad your pushing snow and happy!


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## KenB (Nov 26, 2010)

Put 1250-2000 Lbs on the 3pt and that plus the chains and you shouldn't have a problem with ice or snow.
I have almost my tractor's weight in weight on it.


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