# Troubleshooted but tractor still won't start..!



## DanJ73 (Sep 16, 2016)

Hello everyone, ok I'm having real problems here so would appreciate any advice please...

I have a Siromer 304s.

It first started off with a dodgy starter motor so I took it apart and found a jammed brush. Thought great, so freed it, cleaned it up and refitted. Sat on the seat, pushed the clutch in, turned the key and... nothing! Not even the dials moved or the glow bulb turned on!!

I put a multimeter on the battery, connectors and on the starter motor and saw ~12.8v.

Checked the clutch safety neutral switch and was ok as the switch had been overridden (by previous owner). Has been fine for a few years like this. Anyway cleaned up the contacts.

To my knowledge there are no more safety switches.. 

Quickly shorted the starter motor and it spins really well.

Replaced all fuses but on looking all were fine but replaced them anyway. I did however accidentally put a 30A fuse in a blank and tried to fire her but obviously nothing. Changed it back to how it should had been and still nothing.

On turning the key I see zero volts on the contacts up at the ignition switch so it seems there is a break from the starter up to the ignition switch..!?

Any ideas please?

Many thanks


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Could be a faulty ignition switch!?! Can you jumper across at the back of the switch to see if you get lucky?

Not familiar with these tractors, but there could be a "Neutral" safety switch, a "Seat" safety switch, a "PTO" safety switch and a "Brake" safety switch. So make sure the brake is depressed, the tranny is in neutral, the Power Take off is disengaged and that you are sitting on the seat. Just as a side note, my seat safety switch has frozen a few times and I've had to remove it from the seat frame and warm it to free the actuating button so the tractor would start. I don't suspect you'd have a big issue with a frozen switch though!!


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

You must be in the UK. Go to: http://www.siromer.net/09_Spares/09_Parts_manual_A2_A3_Field_Range_Tractors.htm#Fig20

Go to the electrical diagram, and trace the wires from the hot battery terminal on the starter solenoid to the fuse box. Then trace the positive wire from the key to the fuse box. You should have power from the fuse box to the key wire, if not you have a failed component in the master fusebox. If the positive feed wire from the fuse box to the key is hot, but nothing switches on from that point, the key switch is suspect.

I went through this situation with an acquaintance from East Anglia a few months ago, and it turned out to be a bad fuse in the main relay (squarish box) that provides the battery power feed to the fused circuits. His was repeatedly failing because of a short in the clutch safety switch that blew that relay fuse unit.


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## DanJ73 (Sep 16, 2016)

Thanks for all your replies. I've tinkered again today but still haven't found the problem. I've traced the wires and checked all connections but all seems ok.. Double checked everything was disengaged and in the neutral etc.

When turning the key to heat and then over to the ignition position, zero volts still. Incidentally none of the dials move or the green light on the console lights so definitely no power coming up to the dash. 

Safety neutral switches. I'll call Siromer tomorrow for clarification but on checking the manuals and spares lists I can only see 1 safety switch.

Is the relay fuse 1 of the black boxes next to the fuse unit? Also what's the silver component please?


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

if there are a couple of wires feeding it, should be the heat sink/regulator for the charging system.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

have you checked continuity from the fuse box supply wire to the ignition switch, there could be a break in the core of the wire, I would think your problem is simple.

ignore the above !!.

I have been following the wiring schematic RC sent you and if this is for your tractor, the starting circuit is simple to follow.

Have you had a look at this at all ?, later tonight I will try and copy the schematic and mark the power supply route for starting.


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## Masempine (Jan 20, 2019)

The black box looks like a relay. If you pull it out there should be 4 plugs. Two smaller ones for the relay coil Two larger ones for the relay contacts. If its the start relay, the ignition should put 12v on one side of the coil other side should be earth/ground all the time. When the coil is energized the contacts should close to put 12v to the starter solenoid when that happens the 12v at the starter post should connect thru the starter motor to crank the engine


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

I tried to print this out so I could mark the wiring to help you trace it out, couldn't get the print large enough to do this, so you will have to bear with me, + battery supply splits and one lead goes through the fuse box, I would say the 30 amp fuse, this line then splits and a line goes to the amp meter #14, the other connects to the alternator, you need to see if you have battery supply at the amp meter, check one pole with your multimeter and then check the other pole on the amp meter, red lead to pole and black to a good earth, if you don't have battery voltage at this point, you will need to go back to the 30 amp fuse and check for battery voltage on the inlet and outlet connections, if you have battery voltage across the 30 amp fuse and battery voltage to one pole of the amp meter and not the other, then we can assume that the amp meter may be faulty, dirty connections or bad wiring, and if this is the case, you will not get any ignition what so ever, if you follow the branch from the amp meter, you will see that this goes to the ign. switch, your problem is simple.

There is only the clutch safety switch #27 in your system, nothing under the seat or on the gearbox.


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## Masempine (Jan 20, 2019)

Like FredM says. Based on drawing your tractor doesnt use a start relay.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

addendum -- if there is voltage across the poles on the amp meter and you say earlier that there is no voltage at the ign. switch, then make yourself a jumper and run this from the amp meter to the ign. switch, connect this correctly so as the amp. meter will show charge and discharge when the engine finally runs, -- there could be an open circuit in the amp. meter to ign. switch wiring.


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## JeffM32 (Jan 8, 2019)

FredM said:


> if there are a couple of wires feeding it, should be the heat sink/regulator for the charging system.


It is a rectifier regulator


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## DanJ73 (Sep 16, 2016)

Thank you for all your replies. I've not had time to check the wiring and connectors but have concluded the starter is fine following these videos.










Shall keep you posted.

nb. My Siromer 304s is the same as a Jinma 254.

Thanks again


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## DanJ73 (Sep 16, 2016)

Also if anyone else finds this thread helpful this link will help too.

http://www.ranchhandsupply.com/techstuffus/254le354leelectrical.html


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## Simon47fr (Feb 6, 2021)

DanJ73 said:


> Hello everyone, ok I'm having real problems here so would appreciate any advice please...
> 
> I have a Siromer 304s.
> 
> ...


Hi, I've just encountered the same problem, did you manage to resolve the issue?


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## IsacCornish (Mar 22, 2021)

Check the switches and try again, see if it works. You should check a few different engine components if your tractor cranks but won't start. Is there enough fuel to get to the cylinder? Make that the gasoline level, shutoff valve, and fuel filter are all in good working order. If those components appear to be in good working order, air may not be getting to the cylinder. Since I've got an electric skid from heming-engineering.co.uk I already forgot about all these problems which can appear on those with an internal combustion engine, electric is so much better.


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## Always something (6 mo ago)

FredM said:


> if there are a couple of wires feeding it, should be the heat sink/regulator for the charging system.


That is most likely The micro chip for your ignition system .You not getting any heat to your voltage to your switch. All safety switches are after key switch switches. Meaning the main switch powers them all .No power to the power starter switch nothing works .If the starter has a remote starer solenoid .or if it is on the starter .The battery cable will go to the solenoid. The main power supply will then go out from the solenoid to the main power switch or to your fuse block. Since you pulled the starter I betting your starter solenoid is on the starter .You have either broke the power lead or hooked it up wrong .Or the connection has been compromised. A transmitter wire tracer is what you need .A picture of the stater would help me give you a better ideal what you did or what went wrong.


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