# Ford 2600 Power Steering Cylinder Removal



## BadDad (Jan 31, 2017)

The right side power steering cylinder sprung a leak. I'd like to remove the cylinder and install a new seal kit. I have the front end of the cylinder removed from tractor, however, the rear end is a no go so far. The end remains tightly in place after loosening the nut. I've tried loosening the nut against a wrench between the nut and the trans. housing and included a few hammer taps with no luck.

I'm treading very lightly with my attempts for fear of creating more problems than I fix. Any suggestions on how to remove this?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy BadDad,

Welcome to the tractor forum. 

The first thing you can try is a ball joint separator, often called a "pickle fork". You can usually borrow a set from your local auto parts store. You drive this between the ball joint and stabilizer bar. You will have to replace the rubber boot as it will be destroyed. 

Another method I have used in the past is to drive a steel splitting wedge between the clutch housing and the threaded end of the ball joint. Leave the nut on to protect the threads. I do not put a lot of force on the threaded end with a wedge due to concerns about breaking the clutch housing. Then whack the stabilizer bar with a 5 lb hammer to break the bond.


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## BadDad (Jan 31, 2017)

Thanks sixbales. Funny thing...I stood there with the ball joint separator after my first and only attempt as stated in my first post and thought..."it's been a good day...don't ruin it now". 

Great idea on the wedge...that's a more stable/safe way of attempting a "back pressure" release by spreading the pressure on the clutch housing. I think some of my issue might have been just being too soft with the hammer.

I work all day tomorrow and will give all this a shot on Friday...I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

I've never had a major problem getting these to come loose, but if it refuses to budge you can pull the cap that secures the stabilizer (radius rod). Swing it out and whack the threaded end of the ball joint with a hammer. Use the nut to protect the threads.


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## BadDad (Jan 31, 2017)

I wondered about that but again was afraid to venture into unknown territory without advice not being sure what can of worms I could be opening up. So, if I have to go there, just remove the two bolts and the cap section comes off? No seals or surprises?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

If the center pivot of the front axle is badly worn, the radius rod could jump up at you when the socket is released. Jack up the front axle on the right hand side to avoid this possibility. No other possible surprises. .


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## BadDad (Jan 31, 2017)

Yeh...that would be a surprise alright! Thanks for the warning!


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## BadDad (Jan 31, 2017)

Got it! I went with the wedge plan and it worked like a charm. It didn't take much pressure at all on the threaded end. I think where I've failed with this before was not striking the stabilizer bar hard enough (or with a big enough hammer). It only took a few solid but compassionate strikes with the 5' hammer and she popped right out. 

Thanks again sixbales! Now, I've got some questions on the rebuild of this cylinder, however, after work, watching two basketball games and the associated travel...it's bedtime. 

Should I address the cylinder rebuild here or on another thread?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Start a new thread with new subject.


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## BadDad (Jan 31, 2017)

Will do...thanks again sixbales!


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