# Ford Workmaster 801 HELP!!!!



## fordred (Sep 18, 2009)

Ford Workmaster 801 Series


PLEASE HELP!!! I have tried to convert my 6 v to 12 v by putting a resister between the coil and the solenoid. Somehow the system worked but would backfeed the generator and burn my battery out. I often would start it and disconnect the battery terminal, but the wire to the alternator was very hot. The wiring diagram is as follows: top stud of solenoid to the negative ground of battery. Positive side to block. Coil ran to the top side of the solenoid. The push start was attached to the bottom side of the solenoid. And the starter (6v) was connected from the bottom stud of the solenoid. The system would start, but continuously burning out my batteries. The generator had 3 wires. One wire to the arm, one to the battery side and one to the field. I disconnected the generator and installed an alternator (12 V). I have not tried using the alternator yet because I was told to switch to negative ground. When I did this, I was unable to start the tractor. I went back to positive ground and was able to jump start the starter, but not get any spark at the coil, even though I was getting juice to the coil both sides. I must admit that I did take the coil wire to the ignition key instead of to the side of the solenoid. Should I keep the coil wire on the side of the solenoid? The coil wire was on the side of the solenoid, top stud, and the push start was connected to the side of the solenoid, bottom stud. How do I wire this system so that it works properly? I was told I could use a 12 V alternator by disconnecting from the regulator. But when I went to negative ground, I was not getting any juice from the bottom of the solenoid to the starter. When I went to positive ground, I was able to get juice to the starter, but no spark in the coil.
I have attached a pic. Because I am dazed and confused.


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## dawzie (Oct 2, 2008)

OK - I'm no expert here, so I may give some bad info. Lets start with a good 12volt battery, connected as a neg. ground. 

On the solinoid - big studs and little studs - are there any markings on it ?? such as (+) (-) (I) (E) (HOT) ??

If I remember right, and looking at your pic, the bottom big stud should be the bat. (+) connection, the next little stud should be the start wire from the button. The next little stud goes to the coil (+) side. Now this is important. That wire is only hot when you are cranking the motor over. Due to heavy draw on the battery during cranking, you want unresisted voltage going to the coil. More about that in a second.

The top big stud goes to the starter.

Now the coil. (+) side should have two wires feeding it.

From the ign. switch there should be a hot wire when turned on that goes to a ign. resistor then to the (+) side of the coil.

This wire maybe connected at the coil "OR" on the solinoid as long as its on the wire that leads to the coil (+) side.

The (-) side of the coil goes to the distrubutor. Make sure the points are set and a good condenser.

An easy test is take a test light, connect the wire to a good ground and the pointy end on the (+) side of the coil. It should shut off and on with the key. Now touch the pointy end on the (-) side of the coil. With the key off, it should be off. With no wire connected to the (-) side of the coil, turn the key on. If it lites, coil is OK, if it doesn,t lite = bad coil. Now reconnect the wire to the dist. and turn the key on and the lite may be on OR off. Crank the motor over and it should blink off and on. If it stays (ON) all the time it means your points are not closing/making contact. (dirty/burnt). If it doesn't lite, the points are not opening.

I think I explained that right.

On to your Alt. You should use a one wire alt. I know pully size will make a difference also but I forgot more than I remember these days.

dawzie


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## dawzie (Oct 2, 2008)

Oh , and welcome aboard !!


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## chrpmaster (May 5, 2004)

Ditto what Dawzie said. I did this conversion a few years ago on my 1941 Case and found these sites helpful. I especially liked some of the wiring diagrams. Hope they help.

http://www.antiquetractorstore.com/articles/artint195.htm

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

http://home.earthlink.net/~8ntractor/delco.html

Good luck!

Andy


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## JimCobb (Oct 21, 2011)

*801 power master*

My first post ,
I have a 801 SOS and would like to get a wiring diagram for it , I have had the tractor about 30 years and decided to give it some new gages paint and rewire it but the two books I have don't show a wiring diagram .
Thank you hope I am the right place I could not see how to start a post clue me in .
Jim


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Jim,

Do an internet search for "Ford 801 Wiring Diagram" There are several diagrams posted that should help you out. I assume that you want a 6V diagram, but there are also 12v conversions available.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Jim,

I'm trying to attach a wiring diagram for you. My computer skills aren't the greatest.


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## JimCobb (Oct 21, 2011)

*Thank you*

Thanks I think I can get it from this diagram .
Jim


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## Bedford24 (Sep 28, 2011)

Also see this site - for diagrams or information Electrical System Information if you are using a one wire alternator remember it has a built in regulator so do not use the old one also, you have reversed the polarity of that regulator that is what makes them back feed - remember old fords had a positive ground and you are changing it to a negative ground... if there is an alternator rebuild guy in your area take the alternator to him to check the polarity.


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## Glen1951 (May 4, 2015)

I got a 801 and I got fire to the points but not to the plugs. Can somebody give me some info on this problem. Thanks Glen


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## Glen1951 (May 4, 2015)

I can not get fire to the spark plugs. New ponts and wires fire to the points but not the plugs. Thanks Glen


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## harry16 (Dec 8, 2011)

Howdy Glen,

Welcome to the Ford/New Holland tractor forum.

Is this a 12 volt conversion? Has it had spark and run before this? 

Point gap .025"?? Did you change the capacitor? Check the capacitor with an ohmmeter. Resistance should start low and build to infinity. Swap the leads and it will discharge to zero and quickly build back up to infinity. If you don't have an ohmmeter, try re-using the old capacitor. Clean all connections from the coil to the distributor.

If you've got the points set right, and all connections cleaned, yet don't get spark at the plugs, the coil becomes suspect. I like to work in a dark or shaded area to be sure I see the spark. You should have a blue/white spark.

Try "hot wiring" it. Run a wire from battery hot direct to the coil input terminal.


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