# 801 Power Steering problem



## gearhead (Feb 24, 2011)

This one has me stupefied. Ford 801 all-purpose is hard steering like the power assist isn't working. Long story short, it already has a new pump on it and the left hand cylinder has been replaced by an aftermarket part that is rebuildable (unlike the originals). If either cylinder is disconnected hydraulically and mechanically, and the control valve ports are plugged for that cylinder, it steers just fine. In other words, it steers fine on either cylinder by itself. Reconnect the hydraulic lines (leave rod disconnected from drag link so cylinder isn't doing any work) and steering effort increases somewhat. With both cylinders connected it's almost like manual steering.

I've removed the control valve and given it a thorough cleaning and inspection but don't see one single thing unusual. Everything works smoothly with no broken or damaged parts.

Anyone have any ideas? I'm really stumped and the owner really needs his tractor.
Any input is greatly appreciated!!


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## pcarr4 (Mar 19, 2011)

I have heard that if the cylinders are 2 different sizes this will happen. Is the replacement the same size as the original?


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

I got the following response from Ultradog MN on another site. He is an expert on power steering issues (including the control valve):

"Dunno what's wrong with it. Kind of confusing there.
Tell Gearhead to look into the reservoir while he's turning the wheel back and forth. Is the oil milky? Does it roil and swirl? How long has it been since the fluid and the filter were changed and what is he running for oil in it.
Getting the side cylinders plumbed correctly can be downright confusing sometimes and I've switched them around 3 or 4 different ways before I got them right. 
At this point I would make heap big effort to insure your lines are right. Disconnect the front of the cylinders from the tie rods and see what they do when you turn the wheel. If you turn the wheel hard against the locks you should hear the pump sqeal a bit. Easy way to check if your pump is making pressure with out a guage.
Beyond that I would probably pull the cowel and take the hydraulic block out of the steering colums and clean/inspect it. Put upper and lower seals in it while you have it apart.
The FO 20 manual is a big help there. 
If you need more help post back.
They are not complicated. "

Gearhead - If you have questions, just fire away. It does take some time to get a response from ultradog.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Couple of things: 

1. Many years ago, I unwittingly put a PS cylinder with a 5/8" rod on one side and second PS cylinder with a 1/2" rod on the other side. They worked fine together. I didn't discover that they were different until I ordered rebuild kits about 10 years later. So I do not think that differences in PS cylinders is your problem.

2. Disconnect the front of the cylinders from the tie rods and see what they do when you turn the wheel. One cylinder should retract whilst the other extends. If you turn the wheel hard against the locks you should hear the pump sqeal a bit.

3. Below is how my Ford 3600 is plumbed. I don't know if my control valve is comparable to yours, but it's worth a look to check symmetry if nothing else:

My power steering valve has two connection ports for the PS cylinders on each side. An UPPER (forward) and a LOWER (rearward) connection. 

Your cylinders should have two connections facing up. An INSIDE and an OUTSIDE connection. 

The UPPER (forward) conn on the PS valve connects to the INSIDE conn of both respective cylinders. 

The LOWER (rearward) conn on the PS valve connects to the OUTSIDE conn of both respective cylinders. 

Again, I'm not sure if a 3600 PS control valve is anywhere comparable to your's.

Hope this all makes sense to you. Let me know if you have problems.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

If you have problems with reassembling the control valve. This is for a Ford 3000. Compliments of ultradogMN: 

Have a look at the photo.
Set your block so the fitting is on your right side. That's the starboard side for you land lubbers. See the yellow pencil.
There are two types of plungers in the block.
I call them the special plungers and the plain plungers.
Notice the green pencil. That is the hole where the two special plungers and two balls go.
All the rest of the holes get two plain plungers with a spring in the middle. 


If you set the block onto the steering column just like it sits in the picture you could load it from the top.
On the 3 holes with the plain plungers you would load the bottom plunger, then a spring, then the second plunger.
The special plungers have 'horns' on one end.
So you would load that hole with the first plunger horns up, then the two balls, then the second plunger horns down. There is no spring in that hole.
One other thing I should mention; The spool in the center of the valve does have a top and a bottom. On the inside of the spool there is a slight groove machined on one end. That end goes up. 

I hope this helps you out. Let me know if you have any questions.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

QUOTE: "Disconnect the front of the cylinders from the tie rods and see what they do when you turn the wheel. One cylinder should retract whilst the other extends. If you turn the wheel hard against the locks you should hear the pump sqeal a bit." UNQUOTE.

OK, I disconnected my cylinder rods from the tie rods and tied them up for support with baling twine. Turned the steering wheel to the right. The right rod extended and the left rod retracted. Turn left and just the opposite rod movement. 

My diesel makes so much noise there's no way to hear the pump squeal when against the stops.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Gearhead,

Did you get your Power Steering problem fixed?? What did you find to be the problem??


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