# JD 855 radiator



## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

I had my radiator "repaired" a few months ago. But I'm pretty sure they just painted over the pin hole. Now it's spewing, and won't hold water even while not running.
I've tried to locate a new/rebuilt radiator. No luck.
Part #AM101972
Anyone have any suggestions on where to look besides EBAY (No luck there in any case)? 
It's a nice little tractor, and I'd hate for my wife to turn it in to a planter.
I'm in North Florida, but UPS goes pretty much anywhere (If it isn't raining too hard.).


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Mrleft8 said:


> I had my radiator "repaired" a few months ago. But I'm pretty sure they just painted over the pin hole. Now it's spewing, and won't hold water even while not running.
> I've tried to locate a new/rebuilt radiator. No luck.
> Part #AM101972
> Anyone have any suggestions on where to look besides EBAY (No luck there in any case)?
> ...


You JD855 is really a Yanmar in JD green paint. With that said, your machine takes a Yanmar radiator. About 1/3rd the cost of a marked up JD price too. 

Here are a few sources, check on pricing and if it's a new or re-core. 

apairinc.com/shopping/productDetails.aspx?i=721374













__





JD855: Yanmar Tractor Parts







www.hoyetractor.com


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

Thank you BMaverick!


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

A whole day and a half on the phone, and internet, and no love. No one can figure out the non-JD replacement part.
Several offers to build me a new one from scratch using the old one as a pattern..... But 1K plus is not in the budget.
One problem I'm having is that the previous owner removed the Badge/serial# plate from the Yanmar engine, so I can't use that as a reference....
Frustrations abound!


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Yanmar built the gear drives of that era for JD.......650-1050

The Hydro's ....755- 855-955 are JD ( I thought ).....much nicer fit/finish

This list shows the 755/855 as Yanmar built but No mention of the 955 which is what I own.
The list:




__





Loading…






tractors.fandom.com





BTW....there are 2 models of the 855
Early version is based off the 755......Battery behind dash and fuel tank up front.
Later version shares with the 955......Battery up Front...fuel tank behind dash.

Where is this hole?
in the core or tank seam?


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

thedukes said:


> Yanmar built the gear drives of that era for JD.......650-1050
> 
> The Hydro's ....755- 855-955 are JD ( I thought ).....much nicer fit/finish
> 
> ...


This is the version with the battery up front, so you have to take the front end off to jump start it.
(Why JD puts batteries and valve stems where you can't get to them is a mystery.)
The hole in the radiator seems to be on the port side, about 3-4" up from the drain plug. Once again, these things are built like Italian sports cars. You can't see a thing w/o taking everything apart.
I'm assuming that the entire core is just corroded and thin walled at this point, and springing leaks as the corrosion gets bad enough.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Yep...that radiator is a pita to get to.

On mine..the 955......Hydro cooler sits in front of it.

Mine took a stick through the grill prior to me buying it in 98 ish.......stick shoved the hydro cooler tight to radiator where you can't remove the small trash screen. The larger screen comes out ok. Its not leaked yet so I leave it alone but dread the day I need to get to it. 
Try pepper or if its just one core....and there weak ( as in the fins are crumbling ) pinch off that core above and below the hole and solder it. Thats how it was done back on the farms. Had several 8&9n's with this type of surgery done to them.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Mrleft8 said:


> A whole day and a half on the phone, and internet, and no love. No one can figure out the non-JD replacement part.
> Several offers to build me a new one from scratch using the old one as a pattern..... But 1K plus is not in the budget.
> One problem I'm having is that the previous owner removed the Badge/serial# plate from the Yanmar engine, so I can't use that as a reference....
> Frustrations abound!


Your engine plate would look just like this one. 









*Yanmar 3TN75RJ*


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Poked around the web for images of 855/856 with a radiator.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Those pics are of the early 855.......can see fuel tank fill cap in front of Rad..
Battery behind dash.
On later 855.....Air cleaner is up front over battery and theres a huge muffler where Air cleaner is on the early model.

756 & 856 were golf course tractors with gang mower reels hanging everywhere.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Ugh, this radiator thing is a chore to investigate.

Yanmar makes a genset diesel engine with your 3T75H-xx. It's called the 3T75HLE. Engines ending in LE are for generators. Typically, these are gensets for highway road crew trailers.

Notice the same radiator like your JD855.










This is taken from the service manual located here. 
https://www.lozeman.nl/wp-content/themes/pixel-example/onderdelen_tekeningen/Motoren/Yanmar Motoren/3T/3T/3T75/3T75HLE/3T75HLE-.pdf

Wish there was a more defining Yanmar part number for the radiator. I didn't browse the PDF for the p/n. Just letting you know it's used in many other applications.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Searching 855 is a pita.

Reality is they (855) are either a 755 or a 955.

The 955 style radiator "should " be what He's needing but I have no way of knowing what all the small changes are/were.
Most all the sheet metal is the same on the late 855/955.
Controls and dash..same.

Most noticeable is the 955 rear axles stick out a bit farther......I think the housing is the same.
On the front axle......855 uses 5 lugnuts and 955 uses 6.
They take the same loader...70A
I thought I read once that the wheel base ..F to R was a couple inchs different between the 2...IDK.

Owners manual is of little help as its generic and covers 755-955.....You get a few pictures in each section of whatever one Mother Deere chose. 

I read there is a 655..never seen one yet and often wonder if that was wrong info


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

The most recent info I have is that the part is AM108901 in Yanmar's system, but they don't make that anymore, and have no ONS.... Sent me to several after market places, all either laughed, quoted me the price of a new used tractor, or sad they'd get back to me.
So much for John Deere's reputation of always standing behind their product!


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

thedukes said:


> Yanmar built the gear drives of that era for JD.......650-1050
> 
> The Hydro's ....755- 855-955 are JD ( I thought ).....much nicer fit/finish
> 
> ...


I can't tell. It's on the port side, about 3-4"up But with all the shrouds, and other bits I can't see where it's actually coming from.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

thedukes said:


> Searching 855 is a pita.
> 
> Reality is they (855) are either a 755 or a 955.
> 
> ...


In one of my prior posts is the TM1360 Service Manual. It's lame too. 

Hunted and hunted for a 3T75x-xx or 3TN75x-xx or 3TNA75x-xx, etc for B, C, M, N and V engines of the same root family. 

The 3T75H-A base engine is used in the YM220, YM250 (UK) & YM226. YM220 = 22Hp and YM226 = 26Hp. I would assume to investigate the radiator in either model. From the available parts manuals I do have the radiator is, 

The YM220 & YM250 have the same radiator in the same parts manual. 



















YM226 with it's parts manual,










Just like the JD855, the YM226 has an early version and a later version. hmmmm. 










All 3 use the SAME radiator.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Mrleft8 said:


> I can't tell. It's on the port side, about 3-4"up But with all the shrouds, and other bits I can't see where it's actually coming from.


Haha, you posted about 10 seconds before I did.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Mrleft8 said:


> The most recent info I have is that the part is AM108901 in Yanmar's system, but they don't make that anymore, and have no ONS.... Sent me to several after market places, all either laughed, quoted me the price of a new used tractor, or sad they'd get back to me.
> So much for John Deere's reputation of always standing behind their product!


Did you see my recent post of the Yanmar radiators and the models using the 3T75H family engine?


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

I have a feeling that John Deere wants me to buy a new tractor..... With a million dollar paint job....
Guess what? I'd rather buy an Indian made tractor with a $20 paint job that stood behind their product.
You want manufacturing jobs to stay in this country? Stand behind your product!


bmaverick said:


> Did you see my recent post of the Yanmar radiators and the models using the 3T75H family engine?





bmaverick said:


> Did you see my recent post of the Yanmar radiators and the models using the 3T75H family engine?


I did, but w/o an engine badge/serial # plate no one will help me.
There must be another place where there's an ID that the previous owner didn't remove. (I'm guessing a certain degree of iffy sales transfer at some point in this tractor's life)


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Additional Yanmars of YM1800, YM1802, and YM1810 use this radiator too.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Mrleft8 said:


> I have a feeling that John Deere wants me to buy a new tractor..... With a million dollar paint job....
> Guess what? I'd rather buy an Indian made tractor with a $20 paint job that stood behind their product.
> You want manufacturing jobs to stay in this country? Stand behind your product!
> 
> ...


Why does the ID plate need to be so important? Anyone can find one on the web and use the numbers on it. Once you find a JD855 early or later ID plate on the web, you can just use that number. I did that with my JD850. The plate was badly damaged as it sits near the PTO spindle. So, I just guessed at 3 of the s/n digits and still got support with no issues. Don't make this too hard on yourself, it's not like they could check 40 year old records like a vin number or the state DMV. Tractors are sold or handed down with no paperwork nor registration constantly.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Reality is....these are going on 40 yrs old.

For JD to back these up.......??

Even Honda is only obligated to 20 yrs iirc.

Any radiator that fits will work......The 55 series of Deeres were the best ever made..Hands down.
In a compact they just don't get any better ever.

I see the ones that Bmav posted.....probly any would work.
Only comment I can add is ..my 955 has 2 screens. A wider one on the left and a 4" wide one on the right......why......You pull the wide one first.....then slide the narrow one to the left to pull it.
The AIR Cleaner hose is in the way for a ONE piece screen.

All you need are the inlet and outlet to be proper.
You can ditch the screens ,shroud and fan......Go electric fan.

I'd pull yours and have a different shop repair or recore it.

Used to be a radiator shop in every town........I have no clue where to even find one now.

I'd find leak and seal off that core personally.

You'll be hard pressed to find a better tractor......get over it and fix this leak or dump pepper in the top and call it good...Not gonna hurt anything...been done since the Model A.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Mrleft8 said:


> I can't tell. It's on the port side, about 3-4"up But with all the shrouds, and other bits I can't see where it's actually coming from.


Does it look like this?


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## malsup (Mar 2, 2018)

Do you still need a radiator? I have a "like new" JD branded radiator from my JD935. Yours should be the same as mine.

Anyway, need a new radiator and local JD dealer emptied my checking account to pay for it. If memory serves it was almost $1,000. Six weeks later the TNU3 Yanmar launched a rod through the block.

I am willing to part with the radiator. Contact PM.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk


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## Windy99 (9 mo ago)

Mrleft8 said:


> I had my radiator "repaired" a few months ago. But I'm pretty sure they just painted over the pin hole. Now it's spewing, and won't hold water even while not running.
> I've tried to locate a new/rebuilt radiator. No luck.
> Part #AM101972
> Anyone have any suggestions on where to look besides EBAY (No luck there in any case)?
> ...


You can try Wengers tractor salvage.com...they are a junk yard that I have bought from before..good people...will help all they can and they get new good junk every day! If you get their site just go to tractor salvage at the bottom.


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## boatmoter (Feb 27, 2015)

links to a couple of used ones.. 

Reman radiator assy. - AM101972 - John Deere Compact Tractor Parts





__





AM101972, John Deere, Radiator, Used


Sub Number: N/A Marked/Cast Number: N/A




www.farmlandtractor.com


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> Does it look like this?
> 
> View attachment 83315


No. the top is square not angled down.


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

boatmoter said:


> links to a couple of used ones..
> 
> Reman radiator assy. - AM101972 - John Deere Compact Tractor Parts
> 
> ...


Thanks. I've talked to them. They don't have the part I need.

I'm very leery of ordering a used part off the internet at this point (I'm even leery of ordering a new part) considering the loads of cow manure that I'm being fed by people telling me that just because the dimensions are nothing like what the original are, and the part numbers aren't even close, this _really is _the $1,000 radiator I need!
Once bitten, twice shy.


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## Always something (6 mo ago)

Did you ask the shop about a recore? once brass goes to leaking from pin holes.It is corroded beyond repair . Even if it held a pressure test at the time of the repair. It could have blown in another tube.8The tanks should be good ,and shops have ready access to cores.Whatever you do put cooling system lubricant in Fter you get it fixed .It will extend the life of the radiator.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Been here 2 dayz.

Were trying our best to help.........This isn't majic with that model and its age.

I'm surprized at the effort thats gone into this ....

Pour in the pepper till you find a used one ....this is simple shit


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> Does it look like this?
> 
> View attachment 83315


No. the top is square not angled down.


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## jd110 (Nov 23, 2015)

From my information, the radiator for the 855 is still available from John Deere. Depending on TRACTOR serial number there are 2 different radiators. THey are not cheap, but still very much available. Listed as 1986-1989 model year is AM107254 at $960.08 list price and 1991 and newer is AM108901 at $879.10 list price.


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

thedukes said:


> Been here 2 dayz.
> 
> Were trying our best to help.........This isn't majic with that model and its age.
> 
> ...


I appreciate the help. I really do. The trouble is the run around I get from the people that appear to want to sell me something.... That may or may not be what I need. The opacity of the language from most of these dealers is off putting.
I've been a craftsman/technician all my adult life, and I would never use the language these guys use. "May be" "Could be", "According to our supplier it....". But no one will give me a "yes or no" unless they say "No. We can't get that part".
Pouring on ground pepper...... I can see that plugging up a pin hole, but this is running out fast. I wish I could see where the leak is, but if I tear the whole front end off the tractor all I'll have is parts, and who knows which part is leaking if it's all disassembled?
Sorry, I'm a "build it" kinda guy, not a "tear it apart and see if it still runs" kinda guy.
Once again, I appreciate all the suggestions, and I won't give up.


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

The AM108901 is what I'm looking for and every JD dealer I've called, including the company headquarters says that is no longer available from them.
I've found several sites that say they have them, but when I call, they hem and haw, and say they can get a after market unit in 3-4 weeks.
Maybe it's my accent.


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## bmaverick (Feb 20, 2014)

Mrleft8 said:


> The AM108901 is what I'm looking for and every JD dealer I've called, including the company headquarters says that is no longer available from them.
> I've found several sites that say they have them, but when I call, they hem and haw, and say they can get a after market unit in 3-4 weeks.
> Maybe it's my accent.


Do you have the radiator out of the tractor then? If so, could you post a picture of it here. Some dimensions can be very helpful too. 

As for aftermarket radiators, in many instances those perform better than OE. 

The reason for the upper tank sloping down, some of these 3T75H-xx engine have a IHI turbocharger crossing over that location over the top of the radiator. Thus, if the size and the inlet, outlet and cap are in the correct positions, yes it should work fine. 

The 3T75H-xx engines should align to the same ports of those radiators. This way you know the hoses will reach and have a good fit up.


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

bmaverick said:


> Do you have the radiator out of the tractor then? If so, could you post a picture of it here. Some dimensions can be very helpful too.
> 
> As for aftermarket radiators, in many instances those perform better than OE.
> 
> ...


At this point I have not removed the radiator (again) It requires 2 people, and essentially taking apart the entire front of the tractor. Between the non-hurricane, and other obstacles I've been operating at 1/4 speed. I borrowed a neighbor's tractor to seed the fields today, and will set the seed tomorrow, the good lord willin' if the creek don't rise. Then I can set to taking the beast apart, again. 
In the old days this would be a morning's work. Now it's 2 days if I can find another old duffer to help me, w/o getting bit by a snappy part, or tripping over the loader arms.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

I'd take that loader off for sure..........should be just a couple minute deal if its the factory 70A

Hood is a pita..as well.


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

thedukes said:


> I'd take that loader off for sure..........should be just a couple minute deal if its the factory 70A
> 
> Hood is a pita..as well.


Loader = heavy. Lefty = crippled old guy with bad legs and a fractured spine. Taking the hood assembly and front end stuff off is more than enough for me. Putting it all back on requires another old cripple to help.


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

I'll try the pepper thing tomorrow just to get it out of the garage so I have more room and light.... I don't like running machines dry though.


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

If its the factory loader ....It takes itself off.

Pull the 2 latches and pull the joystick back

unhook the hoses and your done in 2 minutes.

A pic of your tractor might help with some mysteries in this thread\


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

I tried the pepper trick. Used a whole shot glass. No go.
I can take a picture with my dumb phone, but I'll have to send it to someone to post, because like my phone, I'm kinda dumb that way. I can't get pictures to go from my phone to the computer. And you can't get the phone anywhere near to where it seems to be leaking. I checked the drain plug, and the hose flanges, they're both good.
I guess I'm going to have to suck it up, and order a radiator, and keep my fingers crossed that it fits. I hate to spend 1K on something I can't see....
BTW thanks for the video on detaching the loader! That's gonna make life easier when it comes time to replace the radiator!


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

That Video sucks but it is generally correct and I know that guy.

If you need help...pm me and send a Phone #......I'll help all I can...long as your willing.


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## John W Baron (Dec 16, 2020)

thedukes said:


> Reality is....these are going on 40 yrs old.
> 
> For JD to back these up.......??
> 
> ...


https://*www.yesterdaystractors.com*/*tractor-parts* or https://www.*SteinerTractor*.com


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

Well..... I got the old radiator out, and the leak is right where I thought it was. Port side, about 3" up. The same place it was leaking last year when I sent it out to be repaired. The repair shop claimed there was no leak, but they did a nice job of painting it black, and charging me $300(+-) for the service.
So now (in theory a brand spankedy new radiator should arrive tomorrow.... from an after market dealer who is getting it from the people who told me they no longer carried parts for my tractor. John Deere. Funny thing, it's being drop ship delivered straight from John Deere, not the after market company.
People wonder why I'm skeptical when someone says something like "It's in the mail." "I swear I'm still a virgin, even after that weekend last month! I couldn't have given you herpes!", or other such claims.
Lying seems to be the new normal these days. At least this forum seems to be mostly immune.
Thank you all for your help, and advice. I'm sure I'll be back again with more questions


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Save the old one........


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

thedukes said:


> Save the old one........


No kidding!


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## ttucker375230 (3 mo ago)

Mrleft8 said:


> I tried the pepper trick. Used a whole shot glass. No go.
> I can take a picture with my dumb phone, but I'll have to send it to someone to post, because like my phone, I'm kinda dumb that way. I can't get pictures to go from my phone to the computer. And you can't get the phone anywhere near to where it seems to be leaking. I checked the drain plug, and the hose flanges, they're both good.
> I guess I'm going to have to suck it up, and order a radiator, and keep my fingers crossed that it fits. I hate to spend 1K on something I can't see....
> BTW thanks for the video on detaching the loader! That's gonna make life easier when it comes time to replace the radiator!


IF you have a radiator shop close by, they can make a new radiator if top and bottom tanks are good


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## patdufo (5 mo ago)

There’s an old used car salesman trick of using liquid glass. It is not compatible with antifreeze, but you basically put it in let everything heat up. Then open the drain cock try to let some air in and let it sit overnight then refill with radiator fluid AutoZone used to carry it it’s clear and they added copper flakes in it saved a couple vehicles this way.


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## boatmoter (Feb 27, 2015)

if you want to just stop the leak cheaply I suggest bars leak head gasket repair,I have used this several times to cure head gasket leaks, it's bout $35 bucks,Amazon is cheapest. you add it on top of coolant or water and leave it in, let it idle for 20 minutes then use it. works great,if the leak is rot on the radiator core it will not hold, you would either need to re-core it or replace the radiator


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## Roger RAJU (7 mo ago)

Sounds like you already gave up I have had good luck adding corn meal in the cooling system. About 1.5-2 cups. ( the small amount of pepper only gives it a flavor) I saw a mechanic in Tanzania pour 5 pounds of cornmeal in a crawler engine after he reassembled the engine. No new gaskets either


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

New radiator arrived today (Amazingly enough) and all measurements match the old one. Now I'm just waiting for some innocent bystander to drop by for a visit so I can rope them in to helping me install it. I have no desire to drop a $1K radiator on it's face by trying to single hand it.
The old one, aside from the obvious leak, looks like it's in decent shape. When I win the lottery I'll get that leak fixed by a _REAL_ radiator repair shop, not the lying rat bastards that didn't fix it last time, and keep it as a back up spare, just in case....
Unfortuneately there are no decent repair shops of any kind anywhere near here, (Nor are there plumbers, electricians, or carpenters.... AC repairmen, yes.) much less a radiator repair shop. In today's "throw it away and buy another one" society, repair guys can't afford to stay open.


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## Always something (6 mo ago)

Its worse when you can hold 1200 in the palm of your hand .John Deere !!!!! I stopped buying .Your tractor is the exact thing as a yanmar made by yanmar .But in order for them to get the deere contract they have to sign no compet claus .Smart yanmar dealers know what parts will inter change .But they have no way to cross reference. I have 3 lawn tractors one skid steer and a 2240 tractor .Every time something breaks I cringe then shell out the cash. My skid loader has a yanmar engine .Deere wanted 5 grand for a short block .A bare short block crank rods cam and piston.No head No pans No injector pump .When
I ASKED WHY SO MUCH.I got because its a john deere .I called BS .So I drove 200 miles to Western KY Tractor.The helped me figure which yanmar engine would replace the one I had. Then bought a savage engine with bad rod bearings $1200.00 rebuilt it .head and all .Figuring in the 1200 for the core engine.
Still cost 5000 but I have a later model engine more cubic inchs with injector pump and glow plugs .Don't forget the cooling system lubricant!!!!!


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

Always something said:


> Its worse when you can hold 1200 in the palm of your hand .John Deere !!!!! I stopped buying .Your tractor is the exact thing as a yanmar made by yanmar .But in order for them to get the deere contract they have to sign no compet claus .Smart yanmar dealers know what parts will inter change .But they have no way to cross reference. I have 3 lawn tractors one skid steer and a 2240 tractor .Every time something breaks I cringe then shell out the cash. My skid loader has a yanmar engine .Deere wanted 5 grand for a short block .A bare short block crank rods cam and piston.No head No pans No injector pump .When
> I ASKED WHY SO MUCH.I got because its a john deere .I called BS .So I drove 200 miles to Western KY Tractor.The helped me figure which yanmar engine would replace the one I had. Then bought a savage engine with bad rod bearings $1200.00 rebuilt it .head and all .Figuring in the 1200 for the core engine.
> Still cost 5000 but I have a later model engine more cubic inchs with injector pump and glow plugs .Don't forget the cooling system lubricant!!!!!


Yeah. That green paint is expensive. Not the first or only reason I never liked John Deeres, but certainly a good reason.
If this tractor hadn't come with the property I wouldn't own it.
I will say that when it's running, and hasn't leaked half it's hydraulic oil from one place or another, it works OK. It's slow as molasses in January in New England, but it carries it's weight, when it's running. A neighbor wants it. He has 17 other tractors. I might just see if he wants to trade this for one of his Ford 5000s.....


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## xxxjd950xxx (May 11, 2017)

Mrleft8 said:


> This is the version with the battery up front, so you have to take the front end off to jump start it.
> (Why JD puts batteries and valve stems where you can't get to them is a mystery.)
> The hole in the radiator seems to be on the port side, about 3-4" up from the drain plug. Once again, these things are built like Italian sports cars. You can't see a thing w/o taking everything apart.
> I'm assuming that the entire core is just corroded and thin walled at this point, and springing leaks as the corrosion gets bad enough.


Just a trick when trying to jump start these Yanmar/Deere tractors. The positive terminal is wired straight to the starter. Put your positive jumper cable on the battery cable at the starter and negative on frame somewhere and you're good to go. No need to get to thebattery.


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

Removing the old radiator was fairly easy. Re-installing the new one took 4 hands. I don't know how, but it just required 2 people, and having a 3rd person holding 2 drop lights in various places helped also.
No holes in gold plated radiator!
NOW the new question is:
There are little spring loaded twisty toggle dealies that hold the boddy panels to the sides of the engine compartment. 2 of them are on the frame back towards the pilots seat. 2 are on the radiator..... They do not remove. They do not come with the new radiator. Are these things that if I knew what they were called, I could buy and install, or are they the sort of thing that only happens in the magical place called "The factory"?


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

I'd have to look at mine.

Look at your old radiator........can you see a way to remove them and somehow re-attatch to the new one...??


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

thedukes said:


> I'd have to look at mine.
> 
> Look at your old radiator........can you see a way to remove them and somehow re-attatch to the new one...??


Looks like one of those things you find inside the door of a 1972 AMC pacer.... Unless it got put there before the door was put together, you cant put it there.
I'm thinking sheet metal screw unless someone has a magic fix.


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

Wellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll.................................. Today I fired that puppy up again, let it get up to temp. And it was spewing green sauce out the top seam like Linda Blair in Exorcist.

Some years you can't win for losin'


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Mrleft8 said:


> Wellllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll.................................. Today I fired that puppy up again, let it get up to temp. And it was spewing green sauce out the top seam like Linda Blair in Exorcist.
> 
> Some years you can't win for losin'


Well, that sucks!! If some of us didn't have bad luck, we'd have no luck at all!


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

Got that issue worked out. A bad lower hose connection that only manifested it's self under pressure.
But I swear to God (And I am an ordained Pentecostal minister) that this tractor is possessed by some evil demon.
I was gonna drive it over to the neighbor's place so they could help me remount the hood. (It's another one of those 3 hand jobs).... Fired up nicey nice. Good oil pressure. nice cool radiator. I had replaced the oil filter and engine oil while I was waiting before...
The front bucket lifts just fine. The 3 pt hitch lifts just fine. I go to tilt the bucket up (Because that's where the hood and the tools for reattaching it are) and all I get is a buzzing noise. Tilt the bucket down (dump) and it goes 3" and starts buzzing....
I haven't TOUCHED the hydraulics. They were working fine before, and there's no pools of fluid on the garage floor except my blood, sweat and tears....
WTF this time? I looked at the rear end dip stick, A hair low, but pretty much fine... The front axle (which shouldn't have anything to do with anything) was fine...


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

I'll be a monkey's uncle! The damned hydraulic return line quick connect had quick unconnected it's self. At least that one wasn't an expensive fix, just a bit of Sherlock Holmes action.....


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## thedukes (Jan 9, 2022)

Someone leaned their leg against it maybe....

Did you pull the loader this time to change radiator??


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## Mrleft8 (2 mo ago)

No. Because I already had the radiator removed when I found out about the loader quick disconnect, I just stepped over and around when it came to installing the new one. The only thing I can think of is that when either myself or one of the neighbors was squiggling around underneath trying to find the secondary leak, a boot might have found that hydraulic quick connect.... But I've never seen one of those disconnect that easy. Must just have been a freak thing. I'm going out to finish that brush hogging I was doing 6 weeks or so go when this all started! Thanks again for all the advice and help!


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