# Hydraulic fluid changed out, lift doesn't work. Ford 3000



## csi-tech (Apr 19, 2016)

So I completely emptied the rear end because there was water emulsified in the oil. It was getting in through the European transmission hand brake. After having done it, the 3 point lift will do nothing. I have to assume that I lost prime in the pump and need to bleed out air. I have seen several videos for doing this. They all have a different procedure and what I can find in writing is very vague. I have an external piston type pump on an early model Ford 3000. Does anyone have a procedure for doing this that has worked for you? The lift worked fine (2 weeks ago) before the oil change with no leaks.


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy csi-tech,

What fluid did you put in the rear differential section? UTF equivalent to ford spec 134DC, or gear oil? If used gear oil, then this is part of your problem. Ford approved the use of spec 134D many years ago. The hydraulics perform better with 134D. 

See item #20 on the attached parts diagram. Square headed pipe plug, used to test or to prime the pump. Open the plug on the pump body and crank engine with the engine shutoff (coil disconnected or kill rod out for diesel) until the pump primes itself... then close the test port/bleeder. You can fill the test port with UTF prior to cranking to assist priming. 

If the above method doesn't get the pump primed, buy a hose barb to screw into the test port and a length of 1/2" clear plastic tubing to run back to the fill port of the rear differential section. Start the engine to prime the pump, and run till all air bubbles are expelled. 

If neither of the above methods get the pump primed, pressure up the rear section with low pressure (10psi-15psi) compressed air.


----------



## csi-tech (Apr 19, 2016)

I used the TSC Traveler brand equivalent "Tractor hydraulic fluid". Thank you so very much for the information! The tractor is out in the sticks and my generator won't run the compressor so I ordered a smaller one from Home Depot. I will need it for tires and whatnot anyway.


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

I use the Travelers brand as well. Try the first two methods before resorting to compressed air. Reason being that you have to keep the pressure low to avoid damaging seals in the rear end.


----------



## csi-tech (Apr 19, 2016)

Will do. Thanks for the info.


----------



## csi-tech (Apr 19, 2016)

OK, I opened the hex head screw and cranked my diesel engine with the kill switch pulled out. I cranked, and cranked, and cranked. The old fluid with all of the water in it just kept pumping out with no air in it, Just plenty of emulsified water. 

I suspect my hydraulic system is full of this stuff. Next week I will bring a new 2 gallon jug of fluid and try and replace the old stuff. It will be a long process as I don't want to trash my starter. I think there will be a good amount of air between the old watery fluid and the new (clear) I added. I will also use my compressor to pressurize the reservoir and push the new fluid in the lines.

The pump works fine. It was dumping watery fluid everywhere. I still dragged my bush hog today and got alot done. I just hit a bunch of chirt rocks. Meh, I'll rebuild the thing this winter.


----------

