# John Deere 850 - how do I start it



## manoweb (Nov 22, 2017)

Hello. I'm new to the forum as I am a new tractor "owner". Long story short but one of my contractors parked an old John Deere 850 tractor (diesel 3 cylinder) with front loader and tiller in my property, and several months later... it's still there. I would like to move it from where it is right now. I cannot get hold of the person that put it there, or anybody from his company.
I know it works because... well it worked  the battery is marked 2016 and I just recharged it. One of the tires is deflated but I can always pump.
There are two grey wires ("K" in the image below) coming out of the key block (I remember the guy told me the key switch was not working). One of those wires seems to be connected directly to the battery positive - if I ground it it sparks like crazy. The other one - I do not know. If I put it to ground nothing happens. If I put them together I can hear one (or more?) relays switching in the dashboard, but I can never trigger the engine starter. I tried by putting it in neutral, depressing the clutch, and trying to mess around with all the controls.
I really do not know what else to try and I would like to move it in the next few days that I am home... and I would like to move it out of the way.


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Howdy manoweb, welcome to the tractor forum.

Charge the battery. Make sure that the transmission is in neutral, set the hand throttle half way (or more) and jumper the two large connections on the starter solenoid with a screwdriver. This will make it crank. If it doesn't start, use a wire jumper from battery hot terminal to the glow plugs. Let the glow plugs heat up for 15-30 seconds and crank it again.


----------



## manoweb (Nov 22, 2017)

Hello I made it start this morning, but I had to use a small wire between the (see the picture below) the terminal pointed by the red arrow that is coming straight from the battery and the contact inside the connector pointed by the blue arrow. I believe this forced the solenoid close and started the cranking. The tractor started easily.


----------



## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

YUP> the BAT +, to the "little spade" will startum every time..
Theres a HUGE market for them.. "iffin" ya wanna sell it.. Yesterdays Tractor dot com..
OR "tractor by net" dot com
Glad you goter outta your way..


----------



## manoweb (Nov 22, 2017)

I have found something interesting and I made a video of it, but I think I cannot post links yet


----------



## manoweb (Nov 22, 2017)

See that hose that is blowing off some smoke or steam? Is it supposed to be like that?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/M2Od5LbzW8tywBIG2


----------



## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

No, it's not "supposed to be like that". What you're seeing there is a good portion of the cylinders' operating compression finding it's way into and out of the crankcase. Possibly one reason why no one has been too anxious to collect the tractor. If it's yours now, and you plan to use it much, keep an eye on the engine oil level, as it's bound to use some.


----------



## manoweb (Nov 22, 2017)

I have never fixed a Diesel engine, or a tractor in particular (it was either gas vehicles or small 4 stroke engines). So I do not know what that hose is for and what is the source of the smoke.
I started it again this morning to move some dirt I had around and it did not do the smoke/steam anymore. The tractor seem to be OK, engine starts well etc. I believe it has a half yard bucket and I was able to lift such amount of dirt and haul it around without any issue. Do I risk ruining the tractor by not getting to the source? Sorry for the stupid question


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

That is your crankcase vent tube. Its purpose is to discharge any combustion gases that accumulate in the crankcase. Called "blowby". Normally this is an indicator of a well-worn engine, whereby combustion gas is getting past worn piston rings. As 'Fedup' said, if you use it keep an eye on the engine oil level, because it is probably using oil as well. You can use the tractor with no problem as long as you keep oil in the engine. Also, keep an eye on your engine temperature and coolant level as well.

You say the "blowby" was not present when you used the tractor today. It might be the tractor was sitting idle for a lengthy (long) period of time at your friends place, and the piston rings had unseated (were not in their normal position). Running the engine can cause the rings to re-seat and cease to bypass combustion gas. This is pure speculation on my part, but I don't know to explain it otherwise.

Run the tractor and keep an eye on the engine fluids.


----------



## manoweb (Nov 22, 2017)

Oil is at a good level (I should probably change it however along with the filter? Who knows). I added some distilled water in the coolant reservoir (it does not freeze here). Unfortunately the electrical system is not working at all so I do not have any light on the dashboard.


----------



## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Your first project should be to fix the electrical system. Start by replacing the keyswitch.

Diesels are prone to cavitation corrosion, which is a pinpoint corrosion process attacking the cylinder walls. You need to put inhibited coolant (Prestone anti freeze or equivalent) in the engine. Water alone is not good enough. See your JD dealer, they have a corrosion inhibitor (additive) specifically designed to combat cavitation. There is also a 'fleetguard' product (additive) to prevent cavitation.


----------



## manoweb (Nov 22, 2017)

The coolant in the tractor was purple, so probably had the inhibitor. I added distilled water as the level was a little low and I did not have designated coolant. A little dilution of the inhibitor should not be a big deal in this context I hope, but I'll make sure to check the additives and see if there is a coolant leak


----------

