# Magnetic Block Heaters



## Ed Williams

Are magnetic block heaters any good, or a waste of money. My Ford 4000 has a freeze plug heater, but am considering getting a magnetic block heater for a backup in case the existing fails. Changing a freeze plug heater outdoors in the middle is not very sppealing. What do you guys think?


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## Hoodoo Valley

They heat the oil but not the coolant and so I don't think they'd be as effective as a block heater, but heated oil would certainly help better than nothing.


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## Ed Williams

Thanks. I was thinking one would fit on the block under the oil filter. I may pass then. I can heat the oil pan with a heat lamp under the oil pan. Tractor will have a tarp tent over it to help retain heat


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## Hoodoo Valley

I've never utilized one, but they just have to be better than nothing and I believe they are intended to mount on the underside of your oil pan or anywhere you can get it on a flat serface. I have used a heat gun for 20 minutes or so before start up with good results.


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## Ultradog

Ed Williams said:


> Are magnetic block heaters any good, or a waste of money. My Ford 4000 has a freeze plug heater, but am considering getting a magnetic block heater for a backup in case the existing fails. Changing a freeze plug heater outdoors in the middle is not very sppealing. What do you guys think?


I think your freeze plug heater is more than sufficient. Even at minus 10° I can plug my 3000D in for an hour or two and the tractor will start lke it's July. I don't need my tractor to feed livestock so below -10 I stay inside with my bunny slippers on.
Cold weather decreases the volatility of whatever type of fuel your engine uses. So heating the coolant, which in turn heats the entire combustion chamber, is the most effective method of cold starting.
External mag heaters aren't nearly as effective as a block heater that is immersed in the coolant.
This 4000 diesel I'm building here is the old style block with the screw-in plugs. So I will have to use the next best thing to a freeze plug heater which is a tank or inline coolant heater. They work fine too but I prefer the type you have as they are a more tidy install.
Not much need for a pan or oil heater. That was more important back in the day when there was only straight weight oil but modern multi viscosity oils do that job as well or better than heating the oil.
My advice - from up here in cold country...


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## Ed Williams

I think you give sound advice. My only concern was the age of the block heater. Knowing that black cloud that follows me around, it will fail the coldest day in Jan.


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## Ed Williams

Since I am building a tarp shelter, I intend to close the front end and tie the rear to the fenders. I think my best bet is to purchase some kerosene and use my salamander to blow hot air from the rear to the front to keep the motor area fairly watm. Should work just fine now that the thermal start is working corectly.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Be careful because that could cause excessive condensation in the transmission and rear of the tractor


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## Ultradog

I have this lower hose heater here and if it works will probably install it in mine.
Next to a block heater it is the cleanest install.
Hoodoo makes a good point about condensation.

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The tank heaters work good too but I never cared for how they looked. You could install either type now and have a backup.


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## bmaverick

Magnets on metal surface also allow another problem ... corrosion. No matter what you try to do, rust will develop around and between the magnet and the metal. Even painted! 

Other than the heaters, do you change out the oil, store it and switch to the winter grade? Best to use synthetic in temps that go sub-zero. Otherwise, good old dino winter grade oil works best above zero. 

Temps drop down to -20F in the winter out my way. So, 5W30 synthetic is the best I can do in the diesel. Both Yanmar and John Deere rated for the extremes. 

Look up the specs on the Ford 4000 for winter oil. 

You can drain, filter/screen and store your summer antifreeze. Refill 60/40 coolant to distilled water respectively for temps below 20F. Then in the Spring swap it all back.


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## dozer966

Those in line heaters that ultra dog shows in his pictures are great in my opinion. Besides the fact that they are not very pretty looking they actually circulate the coolant throughout the block. I had installed some in my previous vehicles and would show the windshield slightly defrosted in the morning. On startup it would be almost instant heat. A good one is expensive but does work great.


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## Ed Williams

Boy, thanks ror the advice. I never thought about condensation in the other 2 sections. I did get a 250 watt heat lamp to mount under the motor. Will that also cause problems? I have used these before on the pickup during extreme weather, fits perfect in the old Ford next to the block. Completely different as the fire wall separates the heat on the motor from the tranny. I was going to do the same thing with the tractor, clamp to the steering arm and.have it trained on the block under the oil filter. Maybe best to forget external heat unless absolutely necessary and depend on existing block heater. After all, may by worried about nothing. Just trying to be prepared with options. Remember, I am new at this. Never gone thru a winter with a diesel. The old NAA never had a problem. Started right up since converting to 12 volt.

Never thought about changing oil. Currently using Rotella multi-grade 5w-30 diesel oil. It gets to single digits here quite often and a few below 0 nights, but I do not usually use equipment in those extremes. Usually walk and hand carry bales to keep me warm. I have never changed antifreeze. Have always used a 50/50 summer and winter, and change out every 2-3 years. Have never had a cooling problem in any vehicle. Same routine taught by my Dad years ago. Old habits are hard to change, still change oil and filter in truck every 2000 miles, even though.most people go a minimum of 5000 miles. I have run 4 vehicles.over 300,000 miles and never had a.motor problem, always rust or tranny problems, or better half getting tired of old car and wanting something with fewer miles for travel.


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## pogobill

Does your freeze plug block heater work? That's all I have.


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## Ed Williams

Not sure. I have not gotten that far yet. Dealer I bought tractor from said it was a 1 owner trade in from northern Ohio for a larger tractor and the owner said all he us ed d was the block heater. The thermalstart system was disconnected electrically and the glow plug was bad. Replaced the glow plug and rewired via a separate switch Works fine now. NEzt step is to check the block heater.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Ed, what's the coldest temperatures you see there? Most of the time, I'm able to start my diesels up without issue but when it gets down around zero or colder yet, forget it!


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## dozer966

Don't forget that coolant for a gas is different than coolant for a diesel.


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## Ed Williams

Most winters we have 1 or 2 weeks in Jan that it gets from 0 to 10 below. When it gets that cold there is usually no snow, just cold artic air. Most of the snow comes when temp are 20 to 25 deg F. That's when I need the tractor for snow removal. I have 6 neighbors who depend on me to clear their driveways. The last 3 years we have had multiple snowfalls in the 15 to 20 inch range. Everybody is pretty much stuck until I can get drives cleared to the main state road. Then there is always the pullouts of people who get stuck or in the ditch. Pretty much a full day when a big snow hits. Most of the neighbors live on 5-8 acre parcels, and I am the only one who has a tractor, now 2 tractors. I till gardens in spring, mowing in summer, and snow removal in winter. Kind of a one stop shop in the area. I also do welding and. body repair/painting as it comes up. Got to stay busy in retirement or waste away. 

I did not know antifreeze was different. I was just getting ready to drain the existing and put new in. G l ad you flagged me. It's terrible being a Newby to diesels. So much to learn. Glad now I decided to keep the old NAA as a backup. It's still a dependable old workhorse, despite some of its limitations.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Ed, just curious if there was anyone who had a heated shop that would let you park it in there? In my mind, it'd be well worth it to let my neighbor park in my heated garage / shop in exchange for plowing. Just a thought.


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## Ed Williams

No one close has anything but an unheated gagage. I work out of my attached 2+ car garage. Tractors are too tall for the 7 ft doors. Actual clearance is closer to 6'5" after trim. I have leveled a spot in the field next to the house for a 30x40 workshop with 10' doors, nice location with separate gated entrance from side road, then short steps aND 5' gate to house. 35' from corner of house to the new workshop corner. PlanninG on a combo body shop, welding, aND general repairs. I have slowly gathered a 5 hp 80 gal air comp, 2 MIG welders, 1 DC welder, 1 ac welder, 2 sandblasters, 4 gravity paint guns, 3 siphon primer guns, da sanders, air body file, and 2 Snap-On big tool boxes clear full of everything you could want. Dad was a Snap-On dealer for 35 years, and each x-ma's and birthday was a trip to the truck to pick out my present. I really miss.those days. Now, all I need is.a building to put it all in. Was going the pole barn route, but may switch to a steel prefab if I can find the right size and price. Hear they are simple to erect on a simple foundation.. Aleady acquired 1 volunteer to help if I go that route. I'll get there eventually. Acquiring the new.4000 set the workshop plans back a bit, since I used some saved funds to buy the tractor, but it was too good a deal to pass up. Kinda put the cart ahead of the horse.


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## Hoodoo Valley

I used to build pre engineered steel buildings out at our airport. The primary and secondary framing is fun..... Insulation / vapor barrier and sheeting (metal roofing and siding) not so much.


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## Ed Williams

One of the styles I was looking at was a modified quanset hut. It has straight sides. Totally bolt together. You assemble a section on the ground, then roll it up into place and bolt to previous section. Then you have the option of wall framing and insulation, or a spray on urethane foam. My concern is how you do the electrical? Painting requires more lighting than a std garage. How do you install over a foamed surface? Rural Kink has 4 and 8 ft LED shop lights that are fantastic at about 10% more than a similar fluor. Friend installed in his new pole barn on 12' spacing and the place is really lit. That and the 100,000 hr life of the LED is hard to beat. I will need a 5' spacing minimum for painting. First thought was to drop rods to hang lights prior to insul, but that is a lot of work and preplanning to get it right. Framing takes away advantage of the steel building. Also, how do you make wire runs for all the other equipment and outlets in this type of building. Still pondering. There has to be an economical solution.


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## Ultradog

dozer966 said:


> Don't forget that coolant for a gas is different than coolant for a diesel.


Dozer,
No. Coolant is the same for both.
Regular green antifreeze.
But...
Because of the cavitation problems they had with the 3 cylinder diesel models it is very important that you add the recommended coolant conditioner to the antifreeze.
Ed, go to your local CNH dealer and ask for their coolant conditioner. part # FW-15. They will stock it and tell you how much to use.


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## dozer966

Ultradog said:


> Dozer,
> No. Coolant is the same for both.
> Regular green antifreeze.
> But...
> Because of the cavitation problems they had with the 3 cylinder diesel models it is very important that you add the recommended coolant conditioner to the antifreeze.
> Ed, go to your local CNH dealer and ask for their coolant conditioner. part # FW-15. They will stock it and tell you how much to use.



Il have to look but I thought the anti cavitation solution was already in the mix. I will have to check this out.
Thanks


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## Hoodoo Valley

Some have it. You have to be sure it has either SCA or DCA.


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## Bob Driver

Used to live in Summit County, Colorado in my younger days. 10,000' ASL and -20 to -30 almost every morning in the winter. Ran a trash truck fleet that had routes to run every day and we park them outside. We used block heaters and DIPSTICK HEATERS. If you've got a Tractor Supply around you, they sell a nice Kat's dipstick heater for $20.... https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/kats-engine-heaters-dip-stick-heater


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## dozer966

Ultradog. I went and read the bottle and it says anti cavitation formula for diesels.


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## Ed Williams

Guys, thanks for the info. I found a Kats 600 watt in line lower radiator hose heater for $32. I think that will be my winter backup. Looks like a simple installation that can be done in cold weather if necessary. I was going to get a dipstick heater, but there were a lot of complaints of them shorting out. Evidently, if you bend them at all it breaks the heating element, and knowing my luck. 

Sad news. I took the old NAA out mowing to keep everything operational and the left rear blew a sidewall. They have been on the tractor since 1974 when I first put it in operation, so no real big surprise. It will have to sit for awhile until I can recover from the 4000 costs. I am going to put it up on stands so I can run it weekly to keep it lubricated and in running conditions until I can find a new to me tire. The 12.4x28 should be easier to find than the 13.6x38 I had to replace on the 4000. Hopefully a lot less cost.

On another note. I have had a continual problem with air leaking around the outside of the valve stems since I installed new tires 2 years ago. The repair shop was not a tire dealer and refused to correct the problem. Wanted $100 to dismount, replace valves and rebalance. Very strange that all 4 tires were leaking in the same place. Needless to say we are finished with any future business. I used the new manual bead breaker I got for the tractor tires on the alloy wheels on the truck with no problem. Only broke the bead on one side so it would not affect tire balance. Did all 4 wheels in 2 hrs one.wheel at a time. Took a 50 Cal muzzle loader brass brush and cleaned corrosion from valve stem holes. Installed 4 new valves. No leaks. Total cost was $5.20. I am not usually spiteful, but I had to send the repair shop a note that I would be glad to fix his botched tire valve replacements for $50 if would let me post on his bullion board. No reply yet.


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