# 1984 International 484 (CASE ??)



## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

Hi everybody, newbie here trying to fix an old neglected 484 tractor and I need some help from the experts. I inherited a 1984 International Harvester 484 tractor that is in working condition, but just barely. I am trying to keep it running but I can't figure out how to find parts for it. The tractor has a UK serial number plate (International Harvester Company of Great Britain / London). The model on the plate is 1-484 and the serial is B480207B009071-X. I did some searches at the parts sites but I am confused about the name (i.e. IH, CASE-IH, etc.) They all seem to have 484 tractors, but I can't find any parts that appear to be for THIS 484 from 1984. 

The tractor has a number of problems, but two that are most urgent at this point. The first issue is the tractor overheated and it appears that either the water pump is bad, or the seal gasket, or both. I can fill it with anti-freeze, but when sitting with the engine not running, the coolant just drains out of of the pump around the gasket area. It does not seem to leak when it is running. The second problem is that the flexible fuel line that connects to what I think is either a fuel filter (looks like a white oil filter) or a water separator. The fuel line has a flexible part and a rigid metal tube part that appear to be made as one piece. It leaks fuel around the flexible hose part.

So, what I am trying to do is find the water pump gasket, maybe the pump as well (or a rebuild kit), and a new fuel line. I do not have any manuals for this tractor. I was going to purchase a set... but there are so many out there, I want to make sure I order the right ones.

Any advice on how to identify this tractor and the part numbers would be greatly appreciated. 

Cheers,
Ken


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum. Just saying, the 484 ceased production in '82, the 584 ceased production in '84. It's pretty much CaseIH now.
The numbers you are supplying, are they from the right rear corner of the front bolster?


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

Hi pogobill, thanks for the quick reply. So I may have the year wrong then. I will have to figure out how to confirm the year. The serial number is from the plate on the rear of the front bolster, just behind the front wheels. I only have three pictures, one of the plate, one of the fuel line leak, and one of the front side decal. I will get some better pictures of the entire tractor tomorrow when its light out. She is in pretty bad shape, but she does run. I will have to eventually replace the entire control panel as none of the gauges work. I think I also saw that there is an engine serial number plate, but I need to find it. Most of the placards are worn off or bleached. Again, she looks in awful condition, but she runs strong. It would be great to be able to get this old thing back into fighting shape.
View media item 3463View media item 3461View media item 3459


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

Hi @pogobill, I found another couple of numbers... on a plate on the transaxle and another on what I think is the BOSCH fuel injector pump. There is also a sticker on the front bolster that says IHC of Canada (Hamilton, Ontario). I could not find any serials or markings on the engine to determine what kind it is.

If you have any ideas about what year it is or how I can identify the part numbers for the water pump, seals, or pump rebuild kit, that would be great.


























































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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

https://www.messicks.com/cas/52547
Fuel line.... #4
https://www.messicks.com/cas/52547
Water pump


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

@pogobill, thanks for the link information. I had seen the Messicks site, but I could not find the water pump in their parts listing. But.. it appears the water pump is listed in with the "Power" section rather than the "Cooling" section.

So, in any case, I was able to place an order for a remanufactured pump, the gaskets, a new thermostat, and the fuel line. I went ahead and included the upper water hose...as I think that is going to fall apart once I start messing with it.

Thanks again for the link. I just might be able to get this thing back into shape.

Cheers,
Ken


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Well, keep us post Ken. Sounds like an interesting adventure you are embarking on!


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Would have been a fine tractor in its day, damn shame the tractor didn't have a roof of sorts over it head instead of being subjected to all sorts of weather.

You will have a bit of work ahead, but basically the tractor looks strong with the bonnet requiring the most attention, and I hope as you go along, you will update the forum with photos of the restore.


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

Hey folks, well... as I expected.. I started the tear down and found some other pressing problems. Ordered a new set of cooling hoses, a tach cable, new filters, and a new fan belt. The pics below show the current state of the tear down. It does appear the radiator may have some leaks, but they may be small. I think it will still hold pressure...but I wont know until I get the new water pump in there.

Which brings me to my problem. I don’t have a service manual for this beast, so I am kind of guessing at things. It appears to me that I may have to remove the radiator to get to the front side of the fan...to remove the hub covering the water pump bolts. I would rather not have to remove the radiator, but I can’t find any other way to access the water pump bolts. I was wondering if anybody with CASE or IH 484 experience can offer some guidance on how to get the water pump off. Is removal of the radiator required? Or is there some other way to remove the cone from the front of the water pump? I could find no screws or bolts around the sides.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

No shortcuts there gryphon484, you will have to remove the radiator to clear the fan and spacer holding bolts, while the radiator is off, why not take it into a radiator shop and have then check for leaks, if the core is reasonable and has a small leak, then it could be soldered in shop, just a thought!!.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I got this Shop Manual from maskinisten.net, it can also be found at CMN Download page:
http://www.classicmachinery.net/forum/app.php/dl_ext/?sid=6f8ebacbe72c9461276cd0d574dbb722
Go there and, at least, click some ads.

It is a bit rough, but maybe it will work until you find a better one.

Look at paragraph 108:
"... Unbolt and remove fan, spacer and pulley ..."
No mentioning about removing the radiator. Is it possible to reach in between two fan blades with a spanner?

Anyhow, I would flush the engine and radiator before throwing new parts on it. If the coolant has good anti-freeze or rust inhibitor, it may be OK, but I would flush it if in doubt.

***Edit
CMN, not CMS...
***


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

Thanks for the manual and link Hacke, it is rough (for somebody who is not a mechanic...which I am not) but its way better than where I was. This will be a big help. It does appear that I might be able to remove the fan shroud and get to the bolts without messing with the radiator. However, FredM brings up a great point... I could take the radiator and see if it can be fixed. I found a replacement part at Messicks, but its $1300. I found a similar part at another parts site for about $380... not sure why the big price difference.

I have another question... in the manual it describes the water pump removal and replacement for both the gas and Diesel engines. The gas engine water pump shows the placement of the thermostat. There does not appear to be one on the pump diagram for the Diesel version. I purchased the thermostat replacement from Messicks... does a Diesel engine not have one? Or is it just in a different place?

One other question... what’s the best way to flush the cooling system? Is this something I would do after replacement of the water pump and reinstall of all the hoses?

Again, thanks guys for the help.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

Your thermostat will be under the top radiator hose connection at the front of the cylinder head, there are two bolts that hold the housing on to the outlet, just on the other side of the water temperature sensor.

The fan to pump holding bolts could be as long as, "from fan to the first spacer", "from fan to the boss on the pulley", or as I feel "from fan through to the water pump flange that the assembly bolts too, don't mean to be a killjoy, but you need to know what to expect.


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

Thanks FredM... so it will probably mean I will have to remove the radiator..lol.. oh well. I would rather know what to expect. On the topic of the temp sensor... I expect that this feeds the temp gauge on the dashboard. Right now, all of the gauges on the dashboard are in operative. I am hoping its a fuse, but it may be something worse. Apparently, a rather large bird made a nest under there.. and then died inside and became petrified. I am shocked it actually got in there. I am cleaning all that out.. but my question is.. if the temp sensor is inop, I assume the cooling system will still work... the thermostat is mechanical, right?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Flush the system with the old parts on.
First, drain the system.
I attach a page from a User Manual I found at the same place as the Shop Manual, it is too big to upload to this forum. It tells you to flush, but not how you do it...
Apart from the drain plugs, remove the bottom hose from the radiator.

This is how I do it:
After the engine is drained, take a garden hose and put it in the radiator filler hole. Let the water run through the radiator until it comes clear water out at the bottom.
Remove the thermostat housing (the hose can be connected), take out the thermostat and put the garden hose in the hole. Flush until clear water comes out at the bottom radiator hose, and other orifices.

Refit the thermostat housing, without the thermostat. Refit the bottom radiator hose and tighten the drain plugs.
Take a bucket or a can that takes about a gallon, fill that with hot water and dissolve 3-4 dish washer tablets in it.
Pour the solution into the radiator, and top up with clean water.
Run the engine until you can feel all parts of it is warm, the radiator too.
Shut the engine off and let it sit over night.
Drain the system as before.
Flush the system with the garden hose as before, now a little bit longer after the water is clear.
You get an even better result if you once again put the hoses and plugs back, fill with clean water, run for a while and drain immediately.

Now you can put your new pump, thermostat, hoses etc. in place, and fill the system with coolant. What anti-freeze and other additives you use in your coolant, is your own choice. It use to be both personal preferences and manufacturers advices involved.


If you choose to remove the radiator, it gives a more effective cleaning if you fill it 3/4 with the dish washer solution and shake it, turn it upside down and what else you can do to make the solution do it's best inside. Then flush it with the garden hose, both forwards and backwards.



The Case IH Parts List only shows the waterpump and carrier for a diesel engine. It is possibly so that 484 only came with a diesel engine, but among other models that the Shop Manual covers there were gas engines as well. That part in the Shop Manual is not clear. However, I attached a pdf from the Parts List and one of your images, with a marking that shows what should be the thermostat housing.


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

Awesome help! Thanks so much FredM, Hacke, and pogobill. I am feeling way more confident now that I can get this tractor back into the field again. The engine and trans are really strong... this thing is built like a tank. Your help is most appreciated.


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

Making progress on the IH 484 repair. After removing the fan shroud, there was just enough space to reach in and undo the fan bolts and remove the fan to get to the water pump. Thankfully I did not have to remove the radiator. Cleaned up the radiator and oil cooler and installed the new water pump. Before/after pictures provided.

Next will be the install of a new fuel line connecting the left and right fuel/water separators. Then the thermostat, a new tach cable, and then new hoses and belts. Fingers crossed, I will be using the rotary cutter this weekend.. ok... maybe next weekend


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

That is great you didn't have to remove the radiator, you are starting to rock now.


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## bontai Joe (Sep 16, 2003)

Nice old tractor, and it sounds like it found a good home with you. When I first saw the photos, I was thinking that there must have been a bird in LOVE with the tractor. I mean there sure was a LOT of bird "stuff" on the top of the tractor.


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## Gryphon484 (May 20, 2020)

That is an understatement bontal joe. There was literally a bird's nest behind the dashboard that extended down to the transmission. Tons of lengths of all kinds of string and twigs. It was a mess. I got all that cleaned out but I think the bird damaged some of the electrical wiring. The fuses are good, but none of the electrics work except the starter. The tach is broken as well.. but I think that was due to a broken cable. I have a new one on order. Got the fuel line in but found that the second fuel line is leaking as well... so I had to order a replacement for that.

Crazy, but if this thing had been built in the last 10 years... it would be trash at this point. They don't build stuff like this anymore...lol

I do have a question for the board... the manual says it needs SAE 30 for operations above 0C. I have a ton of Shell Rotella T that I inherited as well... but its SAE 15W-40. I am wondering if that is too heavy to use in the tractor?


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