# 7610S fuel pump leaking



## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)

I have a 7610s 2002 model with a turbo charged 5.0 4 cylinder with about 3500 hours on it I've owned it since it was knew So on the fuel pump it has what looks to be a weep whole towards the front of the fuel pump Used to only leak when I first started it up and only a little bit Now it seems like more often and more of it It has an electric fuel pump that gets the fuel to the mechanical fuel pump where the weep whole is It runs fine and doesn't really effect the tractor Its just annoying and it gets Diesel fuel all over the front of the tractor So let me know what you think Thanks in advance


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Think about what?? The P# is FP314A.. cost around 40.00 to replace. Just make sure it comes with a mounting gasket..
In all my years I've never seen an electric pump feeding a mechanical.. its either 1 or the other..
Your electric could be putting out to much pressure & damaging the diaphragm in the mechanical pump.??


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## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)

I was just asking what you thought my problem was So what is that part and what does it do Also do I have to take the mechanical pump off how difficult is that and do you have to worry about keeping the timing the same I can post some pics I do think it has both electric and mechanical unless the mechanical looking pump is electric It looks just like the mechanical fuel pump on my 6640 and 6600


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

post some pictures so we know exactly what ur talking about


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## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)




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## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)

The weep whole is in the first pic right below the bolt Its toward the front of the fuel pump Little hard to see


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Fuel injection pump, front seal failure. Now your post makes sense to me.

I would rebuild the injection pump, and make sure the electric transfer pump is the correct one for the tractor. It probably is if it is original. Actually, I would get in touch with thepumpguysc and see about a through rebuild of your injection pump.

What happened is in 2007 the diesel fuel in the US was reformulated to make it dryer and to include some exotic alcohols to enable use of poorer grade of distillate by thinning it, but the alcohols dry the pump seals. It created a double whammy for tractors, dried the seals then scrubbed them out, plus the specific gravity of the new fuel is closer to number ! diesel, so it slips by worn seals. 

New seal material is more resistant to the drying effect of the reformulated fuel.


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## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)

Ok I will try to get in touch with thepumpguy and see what he recommends It is the original transfer pump but I could double check it Also my fuel tank pressurizes and leaks fuel out the cap for the last couple of years I put a drip hose on a little nipple at the neck of the tank and drilled out the inside of the cap so it will release air but it still leaks out when full I have tried 3 different caps the original and 2 new New Holland caps so I don't think that is the problem Could this also have something to do with the fuel pump? The return line is not clocked seems to work proper slow flow when idling and gets stronger and bubbly when RPMs are increased


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## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)

Oh yeh thanks for the info RC and pumpguy


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Ok.. NOW it makes sense.. I had u diagnosing a completely different pump..
THAT IS a Delphi DP200 pump.. as revealed by the name tag by the dam weep hole..
The weep hole is a "tell-tale" or tattle-tale" hole.. it lets u know the front seals are leaking & about to rupture fuel into the oil pan..

The fuel tank is pressurizing because the diaphragm is ruptured on the boost control on the pump.. Theres NOTHING wrong w/ the caps.. its the pump.

The filter behind the inj. pump IS the electric supply pump. 

THAT PUMP & engine MUST BE TIMED using special timing pins from the manuf.{PERKINS} Its timed thru the front.. u BETTER get a service manual.. if u screw up the timing taking the pump off, you'll never get it to run right..
The pump HAS TO come off to make the repairs..
The timing & pump removal IS NOT for the beginner.. unless u have a BOOK & special tools..
Maybe u could get 1 of the mechanics from N. Holland to come over & take it off, after hours??
NH is gonna rape u bad if u take it there.. you'll save THOUSANDS of $ if u buy a book & the special timing pin.. Book is prob less than 100.00, the pin is about 30.00, we can discuss MY rebuild.. but I will tell u & the open forum.. it'll save you about 1000.00..
Get the #'s off the first line of the name plate.. THATS your pump #.. & do a search..


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## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)

Ok I know a guy that used to be a salesman at our local tractor dealer they are a Kubota dealer but worked on all brands He is now a full time preacher and mechanics on tractors on the side I will talk to him and see what he says I will also get the manual and the timing pin I am not a beginner I have worked on farm equipment and my own trucks for 25 plus years but I am no expert ether so I will get him to help me What is your number Pumpguy if you don't want to put yours mine is 601-916-2018 Cody Brown text or call whenever is good for you and we can discuss the particulars Thank you again 
P.S. I will get the pump number for you also


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Ok kool.. its hard to tell someone HOW TO do it if they aren't familiar w/ wrenches..
Put the machine somewhere, where it can sit for a week or so because it cant be moved once the pump is off.. VERY IMPORTANT..
The front plate, infront of the inj. pump has to be removed.. THAT MEANS all the "stuff" in the way has to be removed or moved.. Once the plate is removed you'll see the pump drive gear.. it has bolts in it connecting the pump to the gear..
There is an EXTRA HOLE on the gear for the timing pin.. The gear/hole needs to be at 6:00 inorder to insert the timing pin.. I forget the size of the pin but the back side of a drill bit can be substituted.. 3/8 or 7/16.?? It has to fit snugly in the hole..no slop.
Once u get the engine/pump timed thru the FRONT..
Go back to the inj. pump side & use that lock timing screw by the weep hole & LOCK the pump drive shaft.. Loosen the bolt, slide the bracket to allow the bolt to be tightened against the pump drive shaft..
THEN go back to the radiator side & remove the bolts in the front..
DO NOT move the engine or the machine while the pump is off..
Now u can get all the other "stuff" off the pump & the hold down screws holding the pump to the engine block. 
Good luck


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## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)

Ok sounds like some thing I could do Fingers crossed Lol I think I will get the service manual and the timing pin I don't mind spending the money to make sure I do it right Also I was talking with the mechanic guy I was telling you about and he said there might be some tamper proof bolts that have to come off I wasn't to excited about that He also said I should get the injectors rebuilt cause if the pump starts putting out the right PSI can blow a seal on them? It has about 3500 hours on it I am not sure if its not putting out the right pressure The tractor seems to run fine just leaking Also pumpguy are you interested in rebuilding my pump if so get in touch if not I call get it done locally And there is no rush I probably won't take it apart for 2-4 weeks Thank you


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

If U HAD the engine running already?? that means the injectors aren't stuck..
Its ALWAYS BEST to do both the pump & injectors if the pump has to come off..
& we already know, it does have to come off..
Find out what the local pump shop is gonna charge for a DP200 overhaul w/ leaking frt seals & a blown diaphragm..
Those parts ARE NOT CHEAP.!!!!
& let me know.. I can "probably" beat'm by a few hundred..
Have the pump #'s handy when u call, so they can do a quicky estimate..
Different pumps have diff. part #'s..


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## Cowherdboy (Dec 2, 2018)

Ok I will do that and let you know


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## Sappleman (Apr 18, 2020)

I also have a 2002 7610S that I just purchased at auction, runs great lots of power no leaks by the weep hole but there is pressure in the tank causing fuel cap to leak when driving, would that be caused by a bad boost control that is on top of the pump? or the electric pump?
If it is the boost control do you need to remove the injector pump to replace or repair that?
will it hurt anything to operate like this if I just loosen the cap every ten minutes or so to relieve the pressure?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Its just the boost diaphragm.. BUT that tiny thing is EXPENSIVE..
& u might need a tamper proof bit to get to it..
U DEF. NEED a hand impact & hammer to loosen it..
Whats the pump #.. I might have 1.. or take a pic of the diaphragm when u get it out..
IF your going to go to the local shop to buy 1.. U HAVE TO HAVE the pump #..
I see this is your 1st post so you prob cant post pictures or send it in a prvt msg..
U might be able to "LOOK AT" my contact info if u click on my screen name on the left side of the page.?? & send any pics to my home email..


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

The problem w running it the way it is is, your not getting full power outta the machine.. all the fuel/air that operates the diaphragm is going back to the tank..
I have seen people do that, just loosen the cap & run'r.. & I have seen it so bad that it pushes the fuel out of the tank..


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## Sappleman (Apr 18, 2020)

It does have tamper proof screws, would you happen to know the size?


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