# 12 volt conversion question



## kman189 (Nov 20, 2021)

Ok I have a 8n converting to 12v. Per diagram have following.
1 side of key to resistor other end of resister to alternator. 
Other side of key to alt meter, other end of alt meter to starter, coil connects to alt meter on same side as key. 
Alt meter, resister, coil and alternator all new.
Getting no spark and tester just lights up red. Battery positive to starter and ground to negative.
Ideas, suggestions? 
Thanks


----------



## kman189 (Nov 20, 2021)

It is a single wire alternator.


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

Doesn't sound wired properly to me.
"1 side of key to resistor other end of resister to alternator. (This would mean ignition switch would get power even off through the resistor)
Other side of key to alt meter, other end of alt meter to starter, coil connects to alt meter on same side as key. 
Alt meter, resister, coil and alternator all new.
Getting no spark and tester just lights up red. Battery positive to starter and ground to negative."
Please answer a few questions I have:
1) 12 volt battery, negative ground?
2) 12 volt alternator...a one wire alternator?
3) alt meter...do you mean an ammeter (charge + --- meter)?
4) 12 volt external ballast coil?
5) points distributor?



Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

Me...I'd replace the amp meter (ammeter) with a voltmeter since you have an alternator. It's so simple and will tell you more about what's going on. Then simply wired --- negative to ground, + positive to ignition switch (on terminal, power with key on).
Battery negative ground, you want ignition switch to ballast resistor. Power when key is on. Other side to coil + positive. Also wire coil + to starter solenoid (small terminal) or ignition switch cranking terminal. So test light on coil +, light on with key on AND when cranking engine. This is so when cranking you get full power (about 10 volts) to coil. Then started & running, coil gets power through the ballast resistor. 
Now...coil --- negative to distributor. 
That's all there is to it.
Test light on coil + on with key on AND cranking. Key on (motor not running), test light on coil ---, light on when points open, off points closed.
To check spark unplug coil center lead from distributor, connect to spark plug laying on a good ground. Key on, plug should fire every time you open points.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## kman189 (Nov 20, 2021)

fuddy1952 said:


> Doesn't sound wired properly to me.
> "1 side of key to resistor other end of resister to alternator. (This would mean ignition switch would get power even off through the resistor)
> Other side of key to alt meter, other end of alt meter to starter, coil connects to alt meter on same side as key.
> Alt meter, resister, coil and alternator all new.
> ...





fuddy1952 said:


> Doesn't sound wired properly to me.
> "1 side of key to resistor other end of resister to alternator. (This would mean ignition switch would get power even off through the resistor)
> Other side of key to alt meter, other end of alt meter to starter, coil connects to alt meter on same side as key.
> Alt meter, resister, coil and alternator all new.
> ...


Hey Fuddy, thanks I am certain it not wired right, was following a diagram off internet. I am going to try a idea offered by a guy I know as I am certain the problem lies in the wiring of alternator. Also yes when I said altmeter meant ammeter, was taught by my grandfather and he sometimes adjusted words and names to his liking 
1. negative ground yes
2. one wire yes
3.ammeter
4.12v coil no internal resister
5.yes points and new.
Thanks again, will try rewire of alt, and coil and let you all know.


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

After correctly wired, getting power to coil + , open points (a piece of paper between contacts is fine). Now wire jump coil --- to ground on, off, on, off. Every time wire off you get a spark. If not...coil is bad.
If it does spark, open points, every time it should spark. If not contacts may be glazed making a poor contact. Bad condenser if shorted you have no spark...bad you have a weak spark.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

Wired the way I suggested will work. 
Using an amp meter you want alternator wire going to meter + terminal, meter --- terminal to battery +.


Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## kman189 (Nov 20, 2021)

Thanks for information fuddy, will give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.


----------



## kman189 (Nov 20, 2021)

kman189 said:


> Thanks for information fuddy, will give it a try tomorrow and see what happens.


----------



## kman189 (Nov 20, 2021)

Ok fuddy I got new points, condenser in distributor, new coil, getting spark but appears weaker then should be. New carburetor, choke and throttle work, fuel is turned on with new line. Not catching, tried a couple of shots of starting fluid in carb and no pop. Next idea?


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

kman189 said:


> Ok fuddy I got new points, condenser in distributor, new coil, getting spark but appears weaker then should be. New carburetor, choke and throttle work, fuel is turned on with new line. Not catching, tried a couple of shots of starting fluid in carb and no pop. Next idea?


I'm sorry so late reading this...hold on let me think...

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

Well...you're working on two at once, ignition and fuel. You said spark weaker than should, if so...focus on that.
If you have a good multimeter or can borrow one...one with capacitance test...what does the new condenser read? I've had bad brand new ones. You have to pull lead off to test.
It will read 0._____ufd. Let me know what it is.
Earlier I said "To check spark unplug coil center lead from distributor, connect to spark plug laying on a good ground. Key on, plug should fire every time you open points"...so trying that, does plug fire with a strong blue "SNAP"?
Also ballast resistor, meter on Rx1, what does it measure? (Ignition key off).
Meter on DC volts...what does it read key on, measure + coil post...meter black lead to ground. Reading points open and closed. Then coil --- negative side, points open and closed?
Now (tractor in neutral) meter on + positive side, key ON and while cranking volts?
This will tell me a lot.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## Sprocketrocket55 (Jan 3, 2021)

I just used a double pole switch and wired one side to the coil and the other side to the alternator 

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk


----------



## fuddy1952 (Mar 6, 2021)

Sprocketrocket55 said:


> I just used a double pole switch and wired one side to the coil and the other side to the alternator
> 
> Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk


I'm not sure I understand. No need to turn alternator on or off, just one wire there to battery. It may have 30 amps flowing through it at times. 
Ignition isn't all that much current, a few amps, but if coil is external resistor type you don't want 12 volts (actually about 14 or so volts) going to it.

Sent from my SM-S205DL using Tapatalk


----------



## Sprocketrocket55 (Jan 3, 2021)

AC Delco alternator with 3 wires. Sorry

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk


----------

