# 1995 Ford/New Holland 5610S Thermostart set up



## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

I have a 1995 Ford/New Holland 5610S. Its a hard starter in the winter. I was digging around and I have a glow plug / Thermostarter plug in the intake manifold. However, I do not have the system or fuel line going into the end of the thermostart to supply the fuel to the plug. My understand is it needs the fuel in order to create fire inside the intake manifold to warm it up to start easier in cold weather. The glow plug / thermostarter on my tractor is functional and heats up when I hold the key just past the on position for 30-45 seconds. Am I missing anything or is this not how it works? I can't seem to find the parts for the 5610S but can find something similar for the 5610. I have attached a few photos. Please help!!!!

This photo is what I found for the 5610 but not a 5610S:









This photo is what I found for a 5010S:


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

So what I’m gathering is, u don’t have anything BUT the plug in the intake.??? If that’s the case,?either it’s been stripped or it wasn’t ordered w 1.?? What injection pump is on your engine.??
CAV/Delphi. SIMMS. Kiki..??


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

thepumpguysc said:


> So what I’m gathering is, u don’t have anything BUT the plug in the intake.??? If that’s the case,?either it’s been stripped or it wasn’t ordered w 1.?? What injection pump is on your engine.??
> CAV/Delphi. SIMMS. Kiki..??


That's correct, I only have the glow plug in the intake manifold. However, it is wired up and the plug gets hot after about 30-45 seconds of holding the key past the ON position. I just bought the tractor in August, so I am new to this tractor and actually new to diesel tractors. I have the CAV injection pump. I have posted a photo just to make sure that is the injection pump I have. I also posted a photo of the glow plug showing it installed with end cover cap still on.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

It doesn’t matter if it has power.. it HAS TOHAVE FUEL to operate correctly..
Your best bet would be to find a salvage place to rob all the components from..
Looking closer, I see a cap over the fuel inlet on the thermo plug..


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

thepumpguysc said:


> It doesn’t matter if it has power.. it HAS TOHAVE FUEL to operate correctly..
> Your best bet would be to find a salvage place to rob all the components from..
> Looking closer, I see a cap over the fuel inlet on the thermo plug..


Yes that is correct. Currently is not fully functional without the fuel. I have called several salvage yard within 150 miles and none have this part. I have contacted Messick's and I think they might be able to help me.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Hold onto your hat..


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Any progress on this project??


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

BigT said:


> Any progress on this project??


Yes, I spoke ti a guy at Messick's and he figured out exactly what I needed. My local dealer had no idea about this. Here is a diagram of what Messick's part technician sent me. Part #51 on diagram is the thermostart which I already have on my tractor. So it appears that all I need is part #50, #44, #42 and #41. Now it looks like it hooks into the CAV injector pump but I don't know which plug it hooks into on the pump. Can any of you verify which plug it connects to on the injection pump?


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## Tx Jim (Jul 28, 2020)

Have you checked with Alexanders Tractor Parts Winnsboro,TX for used parts? They stock many salvage Ford tractors. (800) 231-6876


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

In 09A01(A), does the pipe #44 really fit your injection pump? You do not have a drain/return connection at the upside/front of the pump.
Looking at other diagrams make me think that the pump in that diagram is looking like this:








Ford/New Holland 7610S Injection Pump


Remanufactured Diesel Fuel Injection Pump for Ford-New Holland Agricultural Equipment. 1 Year Warranty Included. We may be able to rebuild your pump for less than the advertised price. Please call to discuss. Remanufactured using genuine OEM Delphi injection pump parts Calibrated by our in-house...




mydieselpro.com





Looking at your picture, your pump looks like a CAV DPA/DPS, are you sure about the model of your tractor?
Perhaps you can take some pictures of the line/s going from the injectors to the tank?

I would go the old fashioned way for the fuel feed. Here is how it can be solved on one of your tractor's ancestors:








Heater Plug Conversion Pipe (4 Cyl) suitable for Ford & Fordson


Heater Plug Conversion Pipe (4 Cyl)




www.agrilineproducts.com




You just replace the return/overflow line from the injectors to tank with this gadget.
You can easily make one yourself instead. Since the pressure is low, you can use a rubber hose and hose clamp directly on the threaded connection (3/8" -24 UNF) at the plug. If it is too tight behind the plug to make a descent bend for the hose, you can use a piece of brake line and a female fitting.

The Thermostart is gravity fed, that means that you will not be dealing with higher pressures than atmospheric pressure, so rubber tubing and ordinary hose clamps will do fine.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> In 09A01(A), does the pipe #44 really fit your injection pump? You do not have a drain/return connection at the upside/front of the pump.
> Looking at other diagrams make me think that the pump in that diagram is looking like this:
> 
> 
> ...


From what I can tell in the diagram it is the same CAV pump and not the one you shared above. Here is the plate on my tractor. It is the correct model.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Tx Jim said:


> Have you checked with Alexanders Tractor Parts Winnsboro,TX for used parts? They stock many salvage Ford tractors. (800) 231-6876


I have not. Was not aware of them but will give them a call.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> In 09A01(A), does the pipe #44 really fit your injection pump? You do not have a drain/return connection at the upside/front of the pump.
> Looking at other diagrams make me think that the pump in that diagram is looking like this:
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for this information, I will check into this. I gave the parts tech at Messick's my information and told him I had the CAV pump and that is the diagram he sent me. I am very green when it comes to diesel tractors.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The sticker says 5610. I am not familiar with these newer models, what makes it a 5610S?


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> The sticker says 5610. I am not familiar with these newer models, what makes it a 5610S?


The 5610S was made beginning in 1994 and produced until 2003 in Mexico. The Unit number on my tractor is 5A17B.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Tractor New Holland 5610S $17,300 Dlls, (flo17400)


FABRICADOS DE 1994 A 2003 (SERIE 305007M).




maquinariaagricolaindustrial.blogspot.com




In the picture that shows the lug behind the starter you can see part of the model code, it seems to start with "LM4". The model code is what should be found under "MODEL" on the sticker. Do you have any numbers on that lug?

Here are pictures of 5610S:





New Holland 5610S 2WD Tractor with 4929 Hours – BARGAIN SYNC







bargainsync.com




www.briansusedtractors.co.uk/users/UserFiles/Image/Ford/31_05_2013_Ford_5610s/big/ford_5610s_31_05_2013_BIGe.jpg
The pumps on these tractors look very similar to the 7610S pump I linked to.
You see pipe #44 going from the plug at the end of the manifold, under the manifold and to the injection pump lid. There is no way to connect that pipe to the lid on your injection pump.

When the fuel tank level goes under half, you will not get very much of gravity feed, so I guess there is an electrical lift pump engaged, at least when you pre-heat. Do you have a lift pump?


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

You're right that doesn't look like my pump. My thermostart is on the other end of the intake manifold towards the nose of the tractor. I will try to get better picture this evening when I go to the barn and look for model number you speak of. I do not have a lift pump that I am aware of.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I may be out of line here but I have to question what it is that makes you sure you have a 5610s? Everything you describe and the photos you posted indicate you have a 5610. The only thing I see that shows otherwise is the paint color. The s models did come with the dark gray chassis color, not the standard Ford blue. There were some tractors that had a big black S on each side of the radiator shell. I'm not really sure what for. Could yours be one of those?


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Fedup said:


> I may be out of line here but I have to question what it is that makes you sure you have a 5610s? Everything you describe and the photos you posted indicate you have a 5610. The only thing I see that shows otherwise is the paint color. The s models did come with the dark gray chassis color, not the standard Ford blue. There were some tractors that had a big black S on each side of the radiator shell. I'm not really sure what for. Could yours be one of those?


Not out of line at all. According to tractor data the 5610 series ended manufacturing in 1993. The 5610S were started being made in 1994. My tractor is a 1995. From my understanding that would make it a 5610S.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> Tractor New Holland 5610S $17,300 Dlls, (flo17400)
> 
> 
> FABRICADOS DE 1994 A 2003 (SERIE 305007M).
> ...


Here is a photo of that code you were asking about. I think the last letter is a C. The code looks to be LM4H4C


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I think I see the same model code in a picture I linked to, and that tractor has the other fuel system. That is a late 1996, but I can not find any information about differences between that date and yours. Do you know if you have the original engine?

Anyhow, it would be interesting to see the return/overflow line/s from the injectors to the tank. That is what is important for your Thermostart problem.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> I think I see the same model code in a picture I linked to, and that tractor has the other fuel system. That is a late 1996, but I can not find any information about differences between that date and yours. Do you know if you have the original engine?
> 
> Anyhow, it would be interesting to see the return/overflow line/s from the injectors to the tank. That is what is important for your Thermostart problem.


I will try my best to get those tomorrow. What exactly am I looking for? Not the shut off valve on the bottom of the fuel tank right?


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> I think I see the same model code in a picture I linked to, and that tractor has the other fuel system. That is a late 1996, but I can not find any information about differences between that date and yours. Do you know if you have the original engine?
> 
> Anyhow, it would be interesting to see the return/overflow line/s from the injectors to the tank. That is what is important for your Thermostart problem.


According to the person I bought the tractor from, it has the original engine.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It is the fuel leak-off line in the picture that is of interest. where does it go after the injectors?
To the filler neck, like in the picture, or to the filter assembly?
Even if it goes to the filter assembly, is there a small pipe at the filler neck?
It would be nice to see the area below the filler neck, "the firewall", as well.
And if you can show where the plug is on the manifold.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> It is the fuel leak-off line in the picture that is of interest. where does it go after the injectors?
> To the filler neck, like in the picture, or to the filter assembly?
> Even if it goes to the filter assembly, is there a small pipe at the filler neck?
> It would be nice to see the area below the filler neck, "the firewall", as well.
> ...


Okay, I will get that today. Thanks for the photo that helps to know what we are looking for. Here is a photo of a FORD tractor engine showing where the thermostart is located on my tractor. It is in the same spot as the one in the picture.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Well whether it's a 10s series tractor or not is not important in this case. What you want is to make your thermostart active, right? All that needs is a fuel supply. I believe the fitting on the heater unit is just a compression tube type, I think it's 3/16". All you need is a length of tubing (steel maybe, also could use copper) with a compression tube nut and ferrule. Swing out the battery and look at the fuel return lines leading up to the tank filler neck. There should be two. One comes from the injector return, one comes from the pump/filter base. They may join together somewhere, or may each go to the filler neck separately. Probably plastic. You want the one from the filter. Pick an accessible spot ( hopefully above the level of the heater unit), add a tee fitting into that line and run another line to the thermostart. That's basically all there is to it. The hardware is your choice. If the line is flexible enough you can use a plastic vacuum line tee from a parts house. You can also use compression tube fittings if the line is too stiff for that. How complicated you make this is totally up to you. All you're trying to do is create a small supply of fuel under very little pressure that can more or less gravity feed the element. If the unit functions properly when power is applied, that's all you need.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> It is the fuel leak-off line in the picture that is of interest. where does it go after the injectors?
> To the filler neck, like in the picture, or to the filter assembly?
> Even if it goes to the filter assembly, is there a small pipe at the filler neck?
> It would be nice to see the area below the filler neck, "the firewall", as well.
> ...


Here is the best photos I could get... Hope this helps.

Showing location of thermostart, just in front on the battery box









Injectors









Fuel line going to filler neck


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

My Ford thermostart is fed via a bypas line on the fuel return line to the tank. It keeps the thermostart pot full by gravity. Mine was also disconnected when I got the tractor. I ran a 1/4" copper line to the the thermostart as it is subjected to heat at the top of the motor. The soft copper was easy to route using a bender to prevent collapsing the line. I was afraid the heat would deteriorate rubber tubing and only wanted to fix it once.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Lykins Farm said:


> Here is the best photos I could get... Hope this helps.
> 
> Showing location of thermostart, just in front on the battery box
> View attachment 71088
> ...


It is the line at the back of the engine that is of interest, the line that goes from the injector closest to the tank.
Is this line spliced in any way, or is it just one single line going all the way from that last injector to the filler neck?

I made a sketch over a possible solution that requires 3/8" fuel hose, a reducing T-connector, a reducing straight connector and hose clamps. I attach it as a ground for discussion. 3/8" hose because it fits on the plug, and that it will work as a reservoir. I suppose the existing lines are 1/4"?

After I made the sketch I realized that the hose going up to the filler neck is on the "wrong" side of the tank seam. I looked at diagrams and found this (5610):





(5610) - 4 CYL AG TRACTOR 10 SERIES (1/81-12/93) (09A01) - FUEL SYSTEM, W/DPA ROTARY INJECTION PUMP - 5610 (81/9-85), 6610 (10-83/84), 5900 (11-90/) New Holland Agriculture







avspare.com




I do not think that it will be a problem, but it is strange with all those gadgets just for a fuel return.

There is not absolutely clear which hose kit that will fit your system, so I think that making your own gives less sorrows.
It is just so weird that there is a plug with a wire, all that works, but there is no fuel line.

Looking at the diagrams gave also that you seem to have a battery box for 5610S, but the bracket under it is like the one for 5610?


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

The main reason people take the line off is.. the thermostart heater plug goes bad and will STICK OPEN..
This causes fuel to “dribble” into the air inlet when not needed..
& it causes all sorts of serious smoking issues..
So instead of buying a 25.00 thermostart, they do all sorts of bad things to that line..
I’ve seen them smashed flat and doubled over.. I’ve seen them BRAZED shut.. lol


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Ed Williams said:


> My Ford thermostart is fed via a bypas line on the fuel return line to the tank. It keeps the thermostart pot full by gravity. Mine was also disconnected when I got the tractor. I ran a 1/4" copper line to the the thermostart as it is subjected to heat at the top of the motor. The soft copper was easy to route using a bender to prevent collapsing the line. I was afraid the heat would deteriorate rubber tubing and only wanted to fix it once.


Awesome! Would you be able to share any photos with me showing how you routed it and where you tied in at?


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Lykins Farm said:


> Awesome! Would you be able to share any photos with me showing how you routed it and where you tied in at?


I would be glad to when I get mobile again. The botched hip surgery is keeping me down at present. The attachment screw is bent and coming loose, so mobility is restricted until repair sutgery on the 15th. Projected 3-4 in hospital and 2 wks of rehab. Total about 4 months before I am allowed out again. Hope that is not too late. 

I will try to hobble down to the tractor shed before the 15th, but cannot guarantee outcome now. Walking is very painful on existing hardware.

The repair was very simple. I ran the copper tube down from the feed pot with a clamped hose connector, turned a 90 and ran next to firewall til it passed the valve cover, then another 90 and ran parallel to the valve cover, then hand bent it slowly to match the tie in at the thermostart. I work rather slowly now but it took about an hour to run the copper tube and wire and replace the thermostart. I meant to insulate the copper tube but never got around to it.

The key switch did not work to activate the thermostart so I ran a direct wire with 30 amp marine fuse to a momentary ON push button to the trim panel below below the cowl and used the screw attachment thermostart type with a soldered eyelet on the wire from the push button. Works perfectly now.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

I triedto get down to the tractor shed while it was still daylight, but the wood ramp was ice covered and I cannot risk another fall right now. I did remember. that I enclosed the copper tube in 3/8 fuel lline to prevent the copper from rubbing on the intake manifold and causing a leak.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> It is the line at the back of the engine that is of interest, the line that goes from the injector closest to the tank.
> Is this line spliced in any way, or is it just one single line going all the way from that last injector to the filler neck?
> 
> I made a sketch over a possible solution that requires 3/8" fuel hose, a reducing T-connector, a reducing straight connector and hose clamps. I attach it as a ground for discussion. 3/8" hose because it fits on the plug, and that it will work as a reservoir. I suppose the existing lines are 1/4"?
> ...


From what I can see the line does not look like it has been spliced previously and repaired. Appears to be one single line. Yeah the existing lines are 1/4".It is strange that the set up is not fully functional but the plug heats up great. This tractor was made in Mexico which I imagine all the 5610S were. It actually has a FORD engine but from what I have been told the 5610S went to using the Genesis engine. This diagram is very helpful. At the threads on the thermostart, would you recommend fittings to screw it on or just furl hose and clamp? Thank you for this help.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Ed Williams said:


> I would be glad to when I get mobile again. The botched hip surgery is keeping me down at present. The attachment screw is bent and coming loose, so mobility is restricted until repair sutgery on the 15th. Projected 3-4 in hospital and 2 wks of rehab. Total about 4 months before I am allowed out again. Hope that is not too late.
> 
> I will try to hobble down to the tractor shed before the 15th, but cannot guarantee outcome now. Walking is very painful on existing hardware.
> 
> ...


ment 
Thank you Ed. So sorry you are dealing with this botched hip surgery. I unfortunately had to have total hip replacement 3 years ago at the age of 32 years old. Born with bad hip. So far so good for me. Best decision I made was to have it done. No worries about getting a photo until it is safe to do so. Sounds like some good engineering. Thanks for all your help.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

thepumpguysc said:


> The main reason people take the line off is.. the thermostart heater plug goes bad and will STICK OPEN..
> This causes fuel to “dribble” into the air inlet when not needed..
> & it causes all sorts of serious smoking issues..
> So instead of buying a 25.00 thermostart, they do all sorts of bad things to that line..
> I’ve seen them smashed flat and doubled over.. I’ve seen them BRAZED shut.. lol


If something don't work, I like to fix it. I can't imagine not replacing a $25 part if it is defective.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Lykins Farm said:


> From what I can see the line does not look like it has been spliced previously and repaired. Appears to be one single line. Yeah the existing lines are 1/4".It is strange that the set up is not fully functional but the plug heats up great. This tractor was made in Mexico which I imagine all the 5610S were. It actually has a FORD engine but from what I have been told the 5610S went to using the Genesis engine. This diagram is very helpful. At the threads on the thermostart, would you recommend fittings to screw it on or just furl hose and clamp? Thank you for this help.


Hose and clamp are good. The line is pure gravity from the feed pot with little to no pressure. Actually less pressure than the injector return lines and those are OEM hose and clamps. Much easier install than hard fittings plus you need a vibration isolator between the motor and the feed pot to prevent failure of the hard piping.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

I do not understand why mine was completely disconnected unless the key switch wss bad and they wanted to clean the piping up. I spent less than $25 including the thermostart from ebay for $9 and $10 for wiring and switch. My memory is getting bad. The push button failed after 8 months. Cheap Chinese crap. Replaced with a HD 75 amp rated push pull switch. Have to remember to shut it off now after use. Also forgot to mention I used 10 ga stranded wire and a 30 amp rated marine fuse holder that is sealed when snapped shut. I have a 20 amp fuse in it and seems to hold the load okay. I used zip ties to get the wiring up off the motor to protect it also. I replaced the nuts on the sheet metal with wing nuts that hold the zip ties.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Lykins Farm said:


> From what I can see the line does not look like it has been spliced previously and repaired. Appears to be one single line. Yeah the existing lines are 1/4".It is strange that the set up is not fully functional but the plug heats up great. This tractor was made in Mexico which I imagine all the 5610S were. It actually has a FORD engine but from what I have been told the 5610S went to using the Genesis engine. This diagram is very helpful. At the threads on the thermostart, would you recommend fittings to screw it on or just furl hose and clamp? Thank you for this help.


I asked about a splice because if there is a connection to the filter/s, there might be a problem. That is not the case, as I understand.

I think Ed's solution is better than running rubber hose all the way, the bends on the hose can be a problem. A Cunifer type of brake line is very nice to work with when you need to do bends. There is an opinion against diesel fuel lines containing copper or zinc, an alternative would be plastic tubing, like the lines you have now. It can be bent after heating, best to dip in hot water.
There is not that much bending involved, so I think you will do fine with a standard steel brake line. You do not need as large as 1/4". When you have the dimensions ready, you can also go to an auto shop and have the line bent.

I still think you should have a 3/8" hose (or larger) for the part that rises up to the filler neck, in order to accumulate fuel for the pre-heating.

I think you need to examine the line that goes to the filler neck. Looking at diagram 09A01 (that resembles your equipment), part #47 is called "Hydraulic valve". That could mean a check valve, and you will not get fuel running to the plug, at pre-heating at least. I do not understand why there should be a check valve there, it might be a mishap that they called it that. One flavour of part #44 is called "Tire tube", and I think we can agree upon that it can not be a tire tube. If fuel is coming down out of the line in a "free fall" manner when you cut it for the T-connection, all is well.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

I am probably wrong, but my thermostart system is fed by direct line from the injector return line to the tank and keeps the pot full. there is no check valve or any other type of control. Probably modified by previous owner.

Since it is an independant system and not part of the fuel circulation system and is seldom used in my area of the country, I have little concern of copper contamination in the fuel system or detriments in the combustion process. Being frugal, I used materials that I had on hand. I ran 1/4 because that was the existing connections on both the pot and the thermostart unit. Just seemed logical to use the same size as the fittings on both ends of the system.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Ed Williams said:


> I am probably wrong, but my thermostart system is fed by direct line from the injector return line to the tank and keeps the pot full. there is no check valve or any other type of control. Probably modified by previous owner.
> 
> Since it is an independant system and not part of the fuel circulation system and is seldom used in my area of the country, I have little concern of copper contamination in the fuel system or detriments in the combustion process. Being frugal, I used materials that I had on hand. I ran 1/4 because that was the existing connections on both the pot and the thermostart unit. Just seemed logical to use the same size as the fittings on both ends of the system.


The "Hydraulic valve" is in the New Holland diagram 09A01. That diagram is for 5610 and it has details that resemble Lykins Farm's tractor. The diagrams for 5610S has details that does not resemble Lykins Farm's tractor, for instance the fuel injection pump and the fuel tank. Therefore I asked if there is a valve on his tractor, like in the diagram for 5610.

Lykins Farm's tractor has no pot.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I mentioned the copper/zinc detail, just to clearify that I have not recommended anything else than steel and plastic. I have no opinion in the matter, just wanted to tell. Everyone do as he likes.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Hacke said:


> The "Hydraulic valve" is in the New Holland diagram 09A01. That diagram is for 5610 and it has details that resemble Lykins Farm's tractor. The diagrams for 5610S has details that does not resemble Lykins Farm's tractor, for instance the fuel injection pump and the fuel tank. Therefore I asked if there is a valve on his tractor, like in the diagram for 5610.
> 
> Lykins Farm's tractor has no pot.


I think mine was heavily modified by the previos owner judging by the stuff that was left and what was missing. I hooked it up from the existing pot and installed a complete wiring system as the key switch would not work on the heat position just to help out if needed in winter. The confusing part is the previos owner was a farmer that lived in very northern Ohio in the snow belt and the tractor sat outside according to him. I wonder how he got it started in winter. Judging by the low hours, it may have just sat all winter and he used other tractors in winter. Who knows.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Hacke said:


> I mentioned the copper/zinc detail, just to clearify that I have not recommended anything else than steel and plastic. I have no opinion in the matter, just wanted to tell. Everyone do as he likes.


I may change mine to plastic eventually, but I would use premade barbed 90's with clamps for the bends. I have never had good luck with trying to bend plastic ells. A friend told me to fill the tube with fine sand prior to heating to make ells that maintain full bore instead of crimping. No way I would do that for a fuel line. Might be okay for encasing electric wire, but that is all I would consider.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

I checked out the fuel line again this evening going from the last injector before the fuel tank and the fuel line goes from that injector to the fuel filler neck. The filler neck actually has two lines running to it. One from that fuel injector and the other from an aperatus on the left side of the tractor. I posted a photo of said aperatus below. What is this aperatus? Also the fuel line from the last injector has no splices of any kind as I looked it over further this evening. Also, does anyone know what that little plug is to the left of the oil filter with wire hooked to it?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Lykins Farm said:


> I checked out the fuel line again this evening going from the last injector before the fuel tank and the fuel line goes from that injector to the fuel filler neck. The filler neck actually has two lines running to it. One from that fuel injector and the other from an aperatus on the left side of the tractor. I posted a photo of said aperatus below. What is this aperatus? Also the fuel line from the last injector has no splices of any kind as I looked it over further this evening. Also, does anyone know what that little plug is to the left of the oil filter with wire hooked to it?
> View attachment 71142


The thing under the engine oil filter is a gear drive, beneath that (inside the engine) is the engine oil pump. The oil pump is driven by the camshaft.
From this gear drive goes a cable in a kind of tubing, like a Bowden cable. The cable goes to the instrument cluster, were the cable drives the tachometer. When the engine runs, the cable rotates inside this black tube.
I think you have mistaken this tachometer cable for being a fuel line. It passes the filler neck on it's way to the instrument cluster. Look again.








Tachometer Drive suitable for Ford & Fordson


Tachometer Drive




www.agrilineproducts.com












Tachometer Cable suitable for Ford & Fordson


10 Series Q Cab Models. 1120mm. Thread: 7/8" Clip type.




www.agrilineproducts.com





The plug to the left of the filter is the engine oil pressure sender. The wire that is connected to it also goes to the instrument cluster.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> The thing under the engine oil filter is a gear drive, beneath that (inside the engine) is the engine oil pump. The oil pump is driven by the camshaft.
> From this gear drive goes a cable in a kind of tubing, like a Bowden cable. The cable goes to the instrument cluster, were the cable drives the tachometer. When the engine runs, the cable rotates inside this black tube.
> I think you have mistaken this tachometer cable for being a fuel line. It passes the filler neck on it's way to the instrument cluster. Look again.
> 
> ...


Thanks I was assuming with that cable because I couldn't see the actual filler neck underneath the sheet metal. Probably going to have to remove the left hood to see it better. I know for certain the line going from that last injector goes to one of the ports on the filler neck


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Lykins Farm said:


> ... I know for certain the line going from that last injector goes to one of the ports on the filler neck


All is well, then. That is the one you should attack with the Thermostart project.


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## Lykins Farm (Feb 1, 2021)

Hacke said:


> All is well, then. That is the one you should attack with the Thermostart project.


That is my plan. Will T into that line and run it to the plug will follow your diagram you shared with me.


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

Ur right Ed, there’s no valves in the system other than the thermostart itself.. & when u turn the key to activate it, it opens up and starts that fire in the intake..& as I stated earlier, when they go bad, they usually stay open, dribbling fuel in the intake causing a bad smoking problem..


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