# Ford 3000 Maintenance Checklist



## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

Hello All
I am a new tractor owner as well as new to the forum.
I just purchased a 1968 Ford 3000, brushhog, plow, disc, grader box, and lift boom.
The hydraulic fluid was last changed 15 years ago. It has new brakes, new axle and axle seals in the rear, and work was done to PTO but i don't know what. The only issue that i know of at the moment is the lift has what i think is referred to as hicup. It will leak down slightly the jump back up to the position it is supposed to be in. I would like to try to fix this so any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

I am taking the tractor to my house before taking it to my property. I would like to clean it up and perform as much preventative maintenance as possible before taking it to the property. I don't have any tools at my property except what i carry in my truck, also no electric or water. So i need to get this thing in tip top shape at my house before taking it to the property.

I am thinking about spraying the tractor down with Krudd Kutter and pressure washing the entire tractor first and foremost to make working on it easier.
I would assume the hydraulic system should be drained and filled with new fluid. Is there a flushing procedure for this before refilling, or a bleed procedure after filling?
What fluid is best for this 134D? Any specific brand best? Considering this: Xtreme Tractor Hydraulic Fluid 5gal for $33.99 at Rural King.

I do not know how old the transmission gear lube is so i will probably drain and refill it as well. Is there a flush procedure for this while its drained? I have heard of people using 134D in here also. Would the same fluid mentioned above work here?

I dont know how old the rear end fluid is either. So i will probably drain and refill it. What should be used in the rear end.

I will also be doing an engine oil and filter change. I have allot of Rotella 15W-40 would this be ok for the engine? Is it recommended to convert to a spin on filter or leave the system as is?

Also changing the fuel filters and i will drain and refill the wet air filter. 

Should i drain flush and refill the radiator? I believe it has a small leak right at the top. I don't know yet if its something i can tig weld back together or if i will need to replace this.
What coolant is recommended for these engines?

Obviously i will be regreasing everything i can find to grease. Are there any specific areas i should pay special attention to while greasing? What is most recommended grease? Green Grease, 2-4C, ???

I am trying to get a dealer service manual for this tractor. If i do is what was originally printed in the manual what is currently recommended or not?

Are there any other reference manuals i should try to get?
And are there any specific maintenance items in which i didnt touch on that i need to make sure to complete.

Sorry for such a lengthy most. I just want to make sure i get it in the best shape possible. I have allot of long hours ahead of me over the next couple years especially. Clearing, leveling, pulling stumps, rock, etc, and creating food plots as well.

Thank you in advance for your time.
Cody


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## Guest (Sep 10, 2018)

Hello and welcome to the Tractor Forum. We have some very knowledgeable and experienced members and I'm sure one or more of the members will help along with me.
The Thousand series are great tractors, very desirable, plenty of repair parts available.
I would suggest you get a copy of the owner's/operators manual at either Amazon or eBay. Less than $30 in either place. The manual has all the service increments in it. The rotella 15-40 is good for the engine, and the transmission/hydraulics will be perfect with UTF (universal Tractor Fluid) available at NAPA, TSC and many other places.
As far as special procedures for changing the hydraulic fluid, I just drained and refilled. I have heard guys say they did other things, but don't know that I would recommend them. As for the hiccup, I suggest you change the fluid and see how it acts. The hiccup is usually a sign of wear internally, and it may be something you want to live with until you have a better reason to go into the hydraulics or it is so bad you choose not to live with it. I will do a little research and get back to you on that.
As far as taking it out to the property, I suggest you make sure it starts as described in the operators manual before you do whether its gas or diesel. If gas, I recommend you use ethanol free gas. I run and use mine once a week minimum and it is always firing before the engine has spun over a complete turn.


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

It is a diesel. However i admittingly do not know the starting procedure in cold weather if i dont have electric for block heater. I may try to get my generator running to take to the property to run the block heater.

Would the traveller premium universal tractor trans/hydraulic fluid be fine from tractor supply, would the Xtreme tractor be any better, or should i go with something like a super tech or a castrol brand?


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## Guest (Sep 10, 2018)

Ok, going by memory here. You asked about special greases.....just a normal general purpose grease is needed if memory serves. You might want to do the greasing after the krud cutter wash. Especially if you are using a strong pressure washer. Steering gear housing, under the glamor panels below the dash....will most likely be full or empty. Should have 80-90 gear oil. However if empty, it's leaked out and you may want to get John Deere Corn head grease into it. This is a heavier oil and not so prone to leaking out the seals.


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## Guest (Sep 10, 2018)

Again, the operators manual has all this info. Service manual might be nice too. Especially if you go into the hydraulics.


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

I'll try to get my hands on both manuals.


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## Guest (Sep 10, 2018)

Enjoy the tractor....sounds you got some good attachments there too. If you can, get her in the Showcase with lots of pics. As for winter starting, you probably need to give yourself a break. The original Lucas generator was only 20 amps and after 2 MG sports cars with Lucas electrics on them, Lucas leaves a bad taste in my mouth. I replaced mine with a 65 amp alternator and put a good NAPA battery in it. You're gonna need all the umpff you can get in a Michigan winter and full speed out of the starter. As I understand it, the 3000 has no glow plugs, and a cold start air pre heater was optional. So I wonder if yours has it?


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

I'm not actually in MI. Im in KY so the winters arent that bad or long. However we do occasionally have some days in the single digits. But its rare. I work for Ford and i am on thier network which is routed thru MI.
The original owner has put a GM 1 wire alternator on it and a large tractor battery. I wonder if there is a way to get the tach to work with that alternator?


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## Guest (Sep 10, 2018)

Ok some of the 1 wire alternators have no tach drive on the back. I think you would have to get the alternator with tach drive. In Kentucky you should be ok. Maybe a very occasional ether assisted start.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

A block heater especially with a diesel is not only going to make starting easier, but really adds life to the engine. Oil reaches critical components faster, the starter doesn't have to work as hard etc etc.


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

Yeah i understand that. I have primarily driven diesel trucks most of my life. I keep them plugged in on timers at my house. However i have no electric at the property. I may be able to use my generator though. 

I dont believe this engine has a block heater oil heater like most trucks or tractors i have seen. Looking at this one it appears that its in the radiator hose and heats the coolant. I dont see how thats going to heat the engine without circulation, at least not very efficiently.


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

May sound silly, but I would think that even 15 minutes with a heat gun on the side of the block would really make a difference. It's much more heat than a block heater, and even a block heater running for an hour will do the trick.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If you are mechanically inclined, you can convert to the Ford 3600 tach drive that fits on top of the oil pump shaft. Eliminates the problematic bolt on system used on alternators.


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

That's good to know. Do you happen to know a part number or a parts schematic and place to order parts?


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

I think i am going to get the baldwin filters from NAPA. I would like to make it a 1 stop shop and get the fluid there too. Would this be ok for the trans and hydraulic system: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FHQWAR3035
How many gallons will i need for tranny and hydraulic system?

I still dont have the manual yet. So what fluid should i buy for the rear end?


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## Guest (Sep 13, 2018)

That should be fine. The actual spec is 134D. Hydraulic lift arms down when draining. Hydraulics/rear end are combined and will take 25.2 quarts. Transmission takes the same UTF and will take 13.2 quarts. Should be a magnet attached to hydraulic drain plug to catch any steel bits. Make sure it goes back on the hydraulic sump. Do you know where the level check points are for both sumps? 3/8 square headed plug midway up the casings on right side. One behind your right foot when seated and one beside your right foot. UTF should just begin to drizzle with level check plug removed. You need a good tool to not round off the square heads. Likely they've not been touched in 20 years. Check your steering gear housing also. Straight slotted cap screw on top of housing. Needs to be full of 80W-90 (about a pint)


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Oil pump tach drive is found in the 3600 parts schematic and list on the New Holland parts site.


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

I am going to paint the sheetmetal on this tractor before taking it to the property. I will probably do a full proper repaint of the entire tractor in a few years. But i have allot of rough work to get done before i do that. But i would like to go over the sheet metal as to stop any further rusting.
I bought Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, Magic Ford Blue/ Safety Blue, and Light Ford Grey. 
But i'm afraid the blue is going to be too light of a blue. My tractor looks like its a darker blue. 
Would the New Ford/ New Holland Blue be a better choice or should i switch brands all together?

Also Ive done my best to clean and read the numbers on the tractor and the best i can come up with is:

CE26C
F3 6
B 044406

Part numbers:
C5NN 4024-D
C5NN 6015

But these numbers dont match any of the references i have found. Any suggestions?


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## Guest (Sep 24, 2018)

CNH still carries the Ford blue and Light gray on their parts list and my dealer keeps it in stock. In quarts and rattlecans. So just open your parts list for your 3000 and go to the paint page.


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## Guest (Sep 24, 2018)

Re your model/ serial number:
Fist line First "C" means it is a 3000
" 2 means gasoline
" 6 means 540/1000 rpm pto
2nd line (build date) F means June
" 3 3rd day
" 6 1976
3rd line B means built in Basildon England
Wouldn't bet on any of this as the serial # doesn't jibe with my references.


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

It's a diesel and supposed to be a 1968



Graysonr said:


> Re your model/ serial number:
> Fist line First "C" means it is a 3000
> " 2 means gasoline
> " 6 means 540/1000 rpm pto
> ...


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## Guest (Sep 24, 2018)

Yup, perhaps if it was built in Basildon, that throws a wrench in the data. Other possibility is that at some point the transmission case was changed out. One never knows.


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## Guest (Sep 24, 2018)

I presume there is no data plate under the right side hood? So we're relying on the engraved numbers on the right side transmission housing flat. All I can do is suggest you carefully clean that area with a paint stripper as these numbers are stamped into the flat by hand and can be hard to read but easily sanded to unreadability.


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## FireKracker50 (Sep 10, 2018)

There is no parking brake on this tractor. I see in the foot rest where the bracket is that it used to latch into but the entire assembly is missing. I cant seem to find them online for sale. Can anyone help with where i may be able to find these.


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## EJ Sadler (Oct 15, 2018)

Graysonr said:


> That should be fine. The actual spec is 134D. Hydraulic lift arms down when draining. Hydraulics/rear end are combined and will take 25.2 quarts. Transmission takes the same UTF and will take 13.2 quarts. Should be a magnet attached to hydraulic drain plug to catch any steel bits. Make sure it goes back on the hydraulic sump. Do you know where the level check points are for both sumps? 3/8 square headed plug midway up the casings on right side. One behind your right foot when seated and one beside your right foot. UTF should just begin to drizzle with level check plug removed. You need a good tool to not round off the square heads. Likely they've not been touched in 20 years. Check your steering gear housing also. Straight slotted cap screw on top of housing. Needs to be full of 80W-90 (about a pint)


Graysonr: your capacities match those I have in my manual, but 13 quarts would overfill my 1968 Ford 3000’s transmission. It was overfull when I started draining it last weekend, and I got about 3 gallons out. The level plug started flowing after about 2 gallons though. This one has the 4-speed sliding gear transmission (and the transmission PTO if that matters). Do you or anyone else have a similar experience with capacity smaller than expected? Thanks!


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## EJ Sadler (Oct 15, 2018)

EJ Sadler said:


> Graysonr: your capacities match those I have in my manual, but 13 quarts would overfill my 1968 Ford 3000’s transmission. It was overfull when I started draining it last weekend, and I got about 3 gallons out. The level plug started flowing after about 2 gallons though. This one has the 4-speed sliding gear transmission (and the transmission PTO if that matters). Do you or anyone else have a similar experience with capacity smaller than expected? Thanks!


And I forgot to ask about the steering gear housing - does anyone have a photo or diagram of that? I’m guessing it needs it on mine unless there’s a difference between manual and power-assist steering. Mine has the latter.


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