# Ford 3000 Cooling questions



## SoldierJohn (Jun 11, 2020)

Hello everyone, hope your all safe during these times.

So I got my Ford 3000 (Billy) and I'm delighted with it. I ran it for 4 hours almost no stop topping one of the fields. During this time I noticed the following.
1. The fuel gauge works 
2. The coolant gauge doesn't work 
3. Bottom coolant hose is warm but not hot and feels empty.
4. Top hose is hot but not F hot
5. I can remove the radiator cap with my bare hand, no pressure release & it's not F hot.
6. No bad smells from the old boy bar exhaust has a very small amount of unburnt diesel, which in a 47 year old I would expect, unless someone has other knowledge to keep me right. 

Any help from you lovely ladies and gents would be much appreciated, have a great day from rainy Scotland UK

John
Billy's Dad.


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## TonsOfGuns (May 10, 2020)

I don't know anything about your tractor. But I'd say anything is possible with a 40+ year old coolant system. 

It is possible your thermostat is stuck open or the radiator is clogged. With your temp gauge broken you can't tell if it's overheating. So if I were in your shoes I'd do the following. 

Install an aftermarket temp probe and gauge where the old sensor goes. 
Replace the thermostat - they are typically pretty cheap
Check that the radiator isn't clogged.
Replace the hoses if they are dead
Put new fluid in it and keep driving


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Test the water temperature sender by removing the female blade terminal from the sender, and connect the terminal to cylinder head bare metal beside the sender. The temperature gauge needle should now slowly move to red.

If the needle moves, the gauge works and the sender is bad, or someone has been using pipe thread tape or something like that, therefore the sender is not grounded. You can test that by connecting the terminal to the hex portion of the sender, without touching the cylinder head. Anyhow, get a new sender.

If the needle does not move, check the wiring. A common problem is the voltage stabilizer, but since the fuel gauge works, it is either the wiring or the gauge itself that is causing you trouble.

Flush the system thoroughly. Put a new thermostat and radiator cap on.

The water pump may be the problem, but the actions above should be taken anyhow to get a good cooling system. First things first.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I don't think in 15 years of messing with those 3 banger Fords I've ever had a temp guage that worked. I do pay attention to them though and can always smell an engine that's getting hot or losing coolant. That's not to say having a temp guage isn't a good idea though.
Anytime you get a 3 cyl Ford diesel it's important to insure it has the coolant treatment stuff in the radiator.
Those diesels are somewhat notorious for cavitation problems where the coolant will perforate into the cylinder walls.
That requires the block be bored and sleeves fitted in the bores.
I strongly suggest you drain and refresh your coolant - if you haven't already done so - then add the recommended coolant conditioner which prevents the cavitation.
There are other brands but I buy this stuff from the dealer you can get the test kit with the strips to check the Ph of your coolant there. I usually just drain, flush and refill with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/water. Then I add half a bottle of this stuff.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The radiator cap is an important part to keep the pressure in the system. Low pressure = Higher risk of cavitation.
It is important to get the engine hot quickly in order to reach the pressure. These short stroke engines can have a problem with this, especially in colder climates. Therefore it is good to have a gauge that shows what is going on. A heater not only gives smoother starts at low temperatures, but also helps a bit with the warming.

I think the best solution is to get rid of the belt driven fan and use an electric fan with a thermostat switch.

I do not get in to discussions about coolant ingredients and filters, it tends to go overboard like oil discussions, but I think most people can agree upon that it is best to use distilled water (battery water) instead of tap water.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hacke said:


> The radiator cap is an important part to keep the pressure in the system. Low pressure = Higher risk of cavitation.
> It is important to get the engine hot quickly in order to reach the pressure. These short stroke engines can have a problem with this, especially in colder climates. Therefore it is good to have a gauge that shows what is going on. A heater not only gives smoother starts at low temperatures, but also helps a bit with the warming.
> 
> I think the best solution is to get rid of the belt driven fan and use an electric fan with a thermostat switch.
> ...


Hacke,
Are you familiar with the cavitation problems on the 65-82 Ford diesels?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Ultradog said:


> Hacke,
> Are you familiar with the cavitation problems on the 65-82 Ford diesels?


Yes.


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## SoldierJohn (Jun 11, 2020)

Thanks for the comments Tonsofguns, Hacke and Ultradog,


I've waited till I was in a position to carry out some of the work before reporting back. Ok so based on my own knowledge and what your inputs were, I carried out the following work.

1. Drained coolant from block and radiator, which was probably just a mixture of water and rust.
2. Flushed the radiator and cleaned the fins, Rad looks in good condition to me.
3. Replaced the thermostat (the right way around), new housing and gasket.
4. Replaced the top and bottom hoses.
5. Replaced the water temp sensor.
6. Replaced the radiator cap (previous seal missing)
7. Renewed the coolant with G30 XTREME with (Organic Additive Tech)
8. Ran the tractor for 3 hours brush cutting, temp gauge still not registering, radiator and both hoses still cool to the touch.
9. Used an IR gun and block temp was between 102F and 192F. 

How do I test the wiring with a meter and is it the case that the engine is probably not getting up to temp that the thermostat is opening to involve the radiator? It was 30C here in Scotland when I ran the tractor for 3 hours. Probably the hottest day here since dinosaurs roamed lol. 
It's an 88C thermostat which seems to be the normal.

Have a great day

John


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## EdF (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy John,
Did you do as Hacke suggested with the temperature sender wire? If not, touch the sender wire to earth ground (bare metal on engine) and see if your temperature gauge reads full scale?

If you get no response at the temperature gauge from the above, disconnect the battery to prevent any mishaps, and carefully remove the instrument panel (4 screws). Carefully clean the various connections, and re-connect the battery. Touch the temperature sender connection at the temperature gauge to earth ground to see if you get a full scale reading. 

If you have no response from the above, check the voltage at the temperature gauge. It should read 5-6 volts from the voltage stabilizer. If everything seems to check out OK, your temperature gauge is defective. See attached:

 https://www.messicks.com/nh/67519?sectionId=3963334&diagramId=67519_692002

You can buy a new aftermarket instrument panel for less than $100. Ford dealerships charge 3X that amount.


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## marc_hanna (Apr 10, 2017)

If you had that much crud in cooling system, it might be worth a second flush after a few hours of work as more crud gets dislodged.


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## TonsOfGuns (May 10, 2020)

I neglected to mention servicing the water pump as well. I've seen water pumps with a rusted off impeller, which I don't think is the case here. No flow would result in a very hot engine.


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## SoldierJohn (Jun 11, 2020)

Hi Tons,

Yes the water pump is on my list to do. It was going to be more preventative but looks like it may have to be done earlier than expected. That said when I did the thermostat etc the other day the pump spun freely with no end float when the belt was off. Thanks Brother.

John




TonsOfGuns said:


> I neglected to mention servicing the water pump as well. I've seen water pumps with a rusted off impeller, which I don't think is the case here. No flow would result in a very hot engine.


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## SoldierJohn (Jun 11, 2020)

Hi EdF,

I didn't do the electrical checks but I will do in the next day or so, Im waiting on some other parts and will do it then. A new cluster here in the UK is approx $134 so not too bad.

Thanks again Sir, speak soon and be safe.

John




EdF said:


> Howdy John,
> Did you do as Hacke suggested with the temperature sender wire? If not, touch the sender wire to earth ground (bare metal on engine) and see if your temperature gauge reads full scale?
> 
> If you get no response at the temperature gauge from the above, disconnect the battery to prevent any mishaps, and carefully remove the instrument panel (4 screws). Carefully clean the various connections, and re-connect the battery. Touch the temperature sender connection at the temperature gauge to earth ground to see if you get a full scale reading.
> ...


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## SoldierJohn (Jun 11, 2020)

Hello Everyone thats posted on this thread,Tons of Guns, Hacke, Ultradog, EdF, Marc Hanna the problem is now solved. 

I did the simple check suggested by EdF and the gauge went up to max. Removed the instrument cluster and there was a Rat or Mouse nest and the bugger had chewed threw the wire to the gauge to make more space for himself. 

Cleaned it all out cleaned the contacts stropped wires extended them slightly reconnected it all and it all works better than ever, lights are brighter gauges work etc. 
I also stripped the front off the tractor and replaced the water pump and oil bath air filter and pre cleaner. Took Billy Blue nose for a spin and all working fine. 

Parked him up and a diesel leak now from accelerator on pump. New seal kit ordered, perhaps Ill get some cutting and fencing done soon lol. 

Thanks for all your help gentlemen its much appreciated and in time and with some experience Ill be able to pass your knowledge onto others.

Best wishes, don't go away no doubt Ill need you all again soon 

John.


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