# MF230 hydraulic lever/valve problems



## cccc

Hi - new guy here and need some diagnostic info in that I live well over 100 miles from the nearest MF dealer/parts, and they are not very helpful.

After installing new "O" rings/seals etc. in the hydraulic valve body under the seat, the 3 point mechanism went right up, but will not lower. Thinking it to be a matter of control linkage, I removed the circular inspection plate on side of the case under the right side of the seat. There, I found that the lift pump operating lever (the lever made with two sides joined by cross bars and a crossbar roller at the top) is now without the roller. 

Consequently, the push bar above can not make contact with a roller at the top of the lift pump operating lever. Thus, the operating lever does not move toward the front of the tractor to release the hydraulic pressure. That is one issue, and I have ordered a new lever, with roller bar. 

I tried to operate the lever manually, but it will not move either direction even under strong hand pressure, so it would appear that some valve connected to the lever down lower is stuck or inoperative. If so, that might explain why the roller broke when the push bar contacted the rigid lever. I do not have the repair manual or any schematic of the layout, but it appears that the operating lever, when pushed toward the front of the tractor, releases or opens a valve to drain off hydraulic preeusre from the three point hitch. This valve may be siezed and inoperable.

Has anyone been down this road, and can you explain the valave issue - and tell me what else I may need to purchase, and how to fix this jam? I assume that I will again need to remove the entire top cover - is this correct?

I will be grateful for any help.


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## shona13

Hi ccc.
Unfortunately this sounds quite typical of someone who knows nothing about what they are doing,you removed the control valve on the lift cover and fitted new o rings ,when you refitted the valve and the standpipe the pipe did not go where it should then you had no hydraulics Id say you then removed the lift cover without first removing the control valve roller consequently the roller was ripped out and in the process has possibly damaged the control valve.
Now you know how to remove the lift cover take it back of ,drain all the oil about 6/7 gallons remove the PTO shaft from the rear ,look down the side of the gearbox housing and you will see two small oval shaped plates one either side held on by two bolts remove the bolts and the plates you will find they have dowels on them ,they are there to locate/hold the hydraulic pump in position .
Remove the hydraulic pump ,pulling it up and out by holding the shaft at the rear, Put it on your prepared NICE CLEAN BENCH then fish out all the little bits in the bottom of the gearbox you are looking for a small pin two small rollers maybe and a small pin and a clip that holds it in place and have a look at the control lever where it pivots it has a small pin and a small spring clip this is the retainer for the control fork pivot, I should have said don't dump the drained oil till the tractor is fully reassembled there may be something you need in there . 
on the bottom of the control fork there are two really small rollers and pin for them to fit to the lever carefully reassemble all of this and the lever will operate under spring tension,you will see the control valve spindle moving out and in via the two little rollers they should be in contact the whole time ,if you move the lever and the rollers loose contact it means the control valve is sticking if it is let me know and i will talk you through this , DON'T TRY TO REMOVE IT without knowing what you are dealing with.
When you are happy everything is working replace the pump you can make new gaskets from gasket paper they are very thin if you don't have gasket paper use a piece of paper from a note pad fit them with gasket glue and don't over tighten the bolts next make sure the big gasket is good or make a new one use gasket glue sparingly and VERY CAREFULLY Refit the lift cover If you have a chain block/block and tackle make a lifting bracket that will bolt onto where the seat bolts onto and use this to refit the cover ,keep the cover in line with and level with the gearbox and when you get it to about three inches from home use two of the long bolts and fit them up near the front of the cover screw them in and they will guide the cover in to its final position replace ALL of the bolts ,the shortest on goes nearest the selector valve that you replaced the o rings on ,if at any time a bolt starts to get tight and it is not fully home don't force it make sure you have the correct bolt in the hole ,be careful,
next bit is a little bit tricky you have to first put the draft lever in the up position and the position control lever in transport position then with your left hand using the back of your hand push the levers back and the control valve forward creating room for the roller to be refitted ,if you look at the roller it has two small groves in the ,get a piece of good strong cotton or a piece of thin wire and tie it onto this ,it will make it easier to find when you drop it in the sump and it will save you the drama of removing the cover again to get it out ,o.k. roller in ,cover secure ,oil back in ,fill to the bottom hole on the side plate this is enough to operate the hydraulics ,start the tractor and move the hydraulic levers through the operating range ,all o.k make sure the response lever the one with the small bolt head sticking out fits into the grove with its head facing outwards then refit the side cover you may have to jiggle it a little bit but don't force it make a 
new gasket and put gasket glue on the threads of all the bolts including the countersunk head one ,fit the indicator cover the seat and top up with oil connect the linkage and away you go.
I would hope that others interested in our subject will read this and ASK Before ripping into it and possibly causing the wallet some stress and pain .
Thats yer lot . Happy days 
Hutch.


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## farmallpat

Nothing Like doing the job twice OR maybe 3 times. 
Very good job explaining how to repair Hutch. 
To jump into a repair you never did before Takes balls To buy a manuafirstst take brains. 
I would clean the sump really good and check relief valve does not have a small metal chips in it. The valve was most likely the problem to begin with. 
You can run with side cover off and if you see air bubbles or leaks you will see were they are coming from. also can hook an air line up to service port under seat on top cover, That will show were the leaks are at as well. 30 psi coming from air line is a good. Any more may blow filter out. 
Just in case you have a leak or problem after you put it back togeather as Hutch expained to you.


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## cccc

*Thanks, shona 13.* Having read some of your knowledgeable replies elsewhere on the forum, I was hoping that you would respond to my inquiry. Although any original mis steps that may have lead to breakage were done at the distant repair shop where the "O" rings were replaced, I am now taking over the repair of my tractor and it is very good to understand those effects and cautions. I do have here an engine hoist that will be used to lift and later refit the lift cover. 

Due to a supplier delay in sending the new control lever I ordered, it will be more than two weeks before can I undertake those repair steps you outlined. However, I will be back to you here to confirm and to ask about any further questions or problems encountered. As you mentioned, I too am concerned about possible damage to some valve aspect. Meanwhile, the snow and cold are ending here, it is time to use the back blade to repair our roadways - and the 230 sits disabled. Only if really necessary will I try to do the roads with the much newer MF 1531 normally used for smaller tasks - nice and handy for my wife to operate, but not the workhorse needed out on the roads.

The owner/operator manual has been sufficient up until now, and I have attempted to purchase the proper repair/maintenance manual for the MF 230 from the dealer/service center about 120 miles distant. They have not been cooperative. I will now try to find one online. If you have a suggestion there, it will be appreciated. Or, if you can refer me to any pictures or schematic drawings of the steps and components involved, I will be grateful. 

Probably needless to explain by now, but we live in a remote location far from services/goods, try our best to be self-sufficient in these matters, and sometimes are sorry after we take equipment elsewhere for mechanical work. Such is the case at the moment.

As an aside, having done work in your country and having visited otherwise as well, including the city of Perth and some sailing there, one must say that you live in a very lovely place out west there. Thanks for responding from "down under" - this internet is a real boon at times.

*farmallpat*, thanks too for the expert information you added. Much appreciated.


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