# ford 4000 diesel died?



## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

Hello all,

As you know (if you have read my other help threads) I recently changed my fuel filter and bleed my fuel lines, now this morning I tried to start it after sitting for 2 days and it cranked but no start. 
After jumping it and cranking it for 40 minutes it starts.
I ran it for 20 minutes and shut it off. 
5 minutes later it cranks, and cranks and finally starts. 
This time I don't shut it off for 2 hours. 
Let it set for 2 hours and it starts up fine. 
After 5-10 minutes it dies, and wont restart. 
Cranks fine. No new diesel fuel same 3/4 tank. fresh fuel filter with 3 hours on it. 

Any ideas?
Cracked the lines and fuel is getting to injectors.

P.S. Also is it normal for the rear end to sound like it grinding, louder when under load and slower speeds?


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

You still have air in your fuel. It must be bled thoroughly from the tank down.
You cannot just get fuel to injectors. It has to be just fuel, no bubbles of air. A proper bleed should not take more than 30-45 minutes from the start. If you rush and do not do a proper job you will just burn another starter. That in its self would pay for a mechanic to come out and start it for you. Once the fuel system is purged correctly it should not give you any problems unless you run it out of fuel. A diesel is nothing like a gas engine!


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

I changed the fuel filter and did a complete bleed from the tank to the sedi bowl to the filter at the injection pump and to the injectors. 

I don't know if I did a "proper job since i am not a mechanic and cant get one to come down when they say they will. They agree to but don't show even after i agree to a ridiculous fee of $85.00 just to drive 5 miles to come here on top of his 85.00 an hour fee starting when he gets in his truck.

But I followed everyone's directions (Thread: Dead in water/field) and took my time to make sure it was done as best i could.
The starter died before I had this problem and the former owner had problems with it and took it off a different tractor, a smaller one I think since the size was a lot smaller. 
As you know if someone keeps running the starter with out letting cool it could short the winding inside and make it useless. 
May be that's why it took my so long? May be i was to cautious with the starter?

Any ways how can i tell that i get all the air out? last time I bleed them it ran for over 3 hours without a stutter. 

*Thank you*,

I* really appreciate* every ones *help*. I'm just trying to get by one day at a time.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Tow-starting may be a better option for you. Leave the injector connections cracked open for a while to purge any air, and then close them an see if it will start.


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

It sounds as if you approached the air in the fuel lines correctly. 

The way you know the air is out of the injection pump and lines is that when someone else is cranking the tractor and you are "cracking" the injector lines open (which means just loose enough for the fuel and air to squirt out under pressure. This is done one line at a time as the tractor is cranking,and is successful when that there are no bubbles just high pressure fuel blowing out of the loosened line. Do not quit cranking the engine until the cracked line is fully tightened so it is not leaking fuel.

If the cranking stops when any of the pressure side lines are open, the injection pump will draw air and airlock again. 

The fuel system bleeding operation is a two person job, and you want to be sure the tractor's battery is fully charged so it does not conk out from cranking when one of these fuel lines are open, or you will need to begin the process all over again.

There are a couple of glitches with these older tractors: There is a fitting at the fuel tank that sometimes plugs with rust and debris, and that fitting must be clean and freely flowing. The way to know if if the fuel flows freely through the fuel filter between the tank and the injection pump. The second issue is that the linkage for the shut off lever wears, and sometimes the fuel injection pump is shut off and requires the start/stop lever to be adjusted so it fully shuts down and then turns on the fuel to the pump.

The newer 4000 series tractors used an electric solenoid to control the fuel to the injection pump, and that must be in good working condition.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

I dont have a truck to tow start it. I do have a hell of a hill but the creek is at the bottom and my luck it would end up being an anchor.

RC, I did every thing you said. I did go to the injectors and crack them as the engine was being cranked and no fuel was coming out. so I have a air leak some where? I did notice the fuel line coming out of the fuel filter going to the cav could rock back and forth with a touch. sound like i'm heading back to parts store. that might be small enough just to be the pain in my tractor.

I'll change that out then re bleed the entire system then let you know the out come.


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## bbirder (Feb 26, 2006)

You mentioned that once before it ran for 3 hrs and then stopped. If after changing that line to a better connection and REBLEEDING the system from the tank all the way to the injectors it runs for that long and stops, try cracking the fuel cap to eliminate a clogged vent. Also when you begin the bleed check the valve at the tank. It should have a screen on it and it may be partially clogged. Lastly, DON'T roll the tractor down the hill! LOL!
In bleeding don't skip from the filter to the pump. I notice you have a canister in the line between the two. That also needs to flow with no air.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

It's ALIVE.
There is a fuel tube from the fuel filter to the pump that seemed to have to much play, so just in case that was the problem i replaced it and found the o rings were squashed to a pulp and were flat and, dried up. If that was not the problem at least I fixed a future problem. 

The rear end still sound like metal on metal when it moves but when it rolls back a little or when it is coasting its better, any suggestions?

and Thank you all again for the help!! tiphat


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Please start a new post for the rear end issue, and post it in the Ford/New Holland section.


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## oldmanfarmer (Mar 24, 2016)

sure will. sorry. since it was part of the 1st post i did in this thread I was'nt sure if I should or not . And thank you I did'nt know there was a ford area.


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