# confused with what i have.



## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

So i have a problem, i have a ford tractor and i have no idea what it is. it doesn't have the side panels that have the model number on them. i have tried to get on the cnh portal and was unable to look up the tractor number and i was wondering what it could be and why i haven't been able to look it up. Any idea and if you can help it would really help. unfortunately i have no idea where to look for information and if anyone can help it would be amazing.
tractor number ( a926298 )
model number ( uc7 15m )
unit number ( 0e11b)


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Welcome to the tractor forum reebadoo.

Your tractor's numbers translate as follows:

*Model UC715M*:
Ford 8630 flat deck tractor (Mfg 1990-1993), Diesel engine (121HP), Independent PTO 540/1000 rpm, 16 x 4 dual power transmission

*Mfg Code 0E11B - * Your tractor was built on May 11th, 1990, day shift.

*Serial Number A926298* - The "A" denotes tractor was built in Antwerp, Belgium.


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

sixbales said:


> Welcome to the tractor forum reebadoo.
> 
> Your tractor's numbers translate as follows:
> 
> ...


Is this a European tractor or was this tractor made for the us? unfortunately i attempted to look it up on my schools Case/New Holland and it did not appear on the site from the us, so would it be an international model? one thing i noticed it has a 4 speed with high low so it is only an 8 speed forward 2 reverse.


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## Guest (Jan 12, 2018)

https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/HINESEQUIP/parts-search.html#epc::mr62978ag3962932
use this link to parts and you may have to type 8630 in the model number box and click go. You can also change the link to your local dealer.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

The "M" in the model number indicates that the tractor as originally built had a 16 x 4 dual power transmission. Therefore, the transmission has been swapped out somewhere along the way. This is not unusual with these old Ford tractors. The 8 speed transmission is very durable.

The 8630 was built in Antwerp, Belgium. It may have been made for US consumption, but beyond that I cannot answer your question.


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## Guest (Jan 12, 2018)

As far as being a US model or made for European use, starting in 1965 with the "thousand series" ford brought the old fordson line into the general mix and from that time on fords were generically international. Those built to stay or go into countries that had specific safety/design requirements were built specifically for those countries. ie: England required different fenders, different lighting, and probably other changes as well. The current parts info on the NH website support all these variations (at least for my model). There is a lot of info available on www about this Ford in this time frame. This also was a trying time for the ford dealers, at least in the US. The dealers were forced to purchase the parts books on microfische (no one knew how that worked) but most continued getting the printed parts books as well. Old Henry's idea of a universal tractor for all obviously fell to the wayside (it had to in order compete with other popular brands). The first plastic parts showed up in April 1968. I know as my 68 ford 2000 has plastic grilles. The dealers wondered how in heck they could sell tractors with plastic parts. So a growing time for the ford dealers and employees. Not to mention that dealers had to stock several models instead of just 1 or 2.


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## Guest (Jan 12, 2018)

I was at the Ford tractor dealer a good deal during the early 60's to 67 as I had what you might call a small business as a teen doing custom plowing/harrowing and snow plowing in winter. So I saw many of the Thousand series new. Never saw one with a horn for example. Mine had a hole in the dash panel and I found in the parts list that it was for a horn button. NH actually had the cover for it available and I quickly ordered it. Yesterday investigating a big tractor graveyard/junkyard/equipment sales place I saw a 3000 model with a horn button!


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

im not sure its just when i searched the model number in the case portal nothing came up. maybe pictures will help


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## Guest (Jan 12, 2018)

The model number comes up on the New Holland site. Here is another parts company that has good parts research resources. http://www.messicks.com/
Between it and the New Holland site I gave you, you can at least find parts. You've got good ID on the tractor, bear in mind the different transmission, as for knowing what country yours was built for, if you're in the US, that's a pretty good assumption for a starting point. Too bad there's so little history available on the old tractors. The only chance you got really is if it's stayed in the family since new.


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Here's a photo of an 8630:










You can find parts at the: "New Holland Online Parts Store" or at "Messick's" as graysonr suggested.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Why,if it's a NH/Ford,would you look in the CASE portal ??


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

jhngardner367 said:


> Why,if it's a NH/Ford,would you look in the CASE portal ??


the sight i used was the portal.cnh,com and i went to the nh part of the sight so i just called it case. sorry my terminology was off. ive been told that it is around a tw15 or the 8530. im trying to pin down the model so i can get the parts and the correct specs. i have to go through just about everything. everything needs work. and i am in the us. i know we have only had the tractor for around 2 years and its my production product in school. so im just confused on what it is. once i find out i can get to some real work on getting it fixed to spec.


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## Guest (Jan 16, 2018)

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/005/9/6/5965-ford-8630.html
use this link to see for yourself. As sixbales informed you in msg above your serial number is in the 8630 model series built in 1990. Ford never reused any serial number sequence a second time. The tractor data link above tells you pretty detailed specs. Hope this helps you, or perhaps you could explain what you are confused about?


sixbales said:


> Welcome to the tractor forum reebadoo.
> 
> Your tractor's numbers translate as follows:
> 
> ...


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

i just had no idea where to start and so many different tractors looked so close and i wanted a second opinion to try and get the best understanding i could of what i had. im kinda new to tractors and so im not to knowledgeable to what i have and what i come across. so i just wanted to reach out and get help. Thank you. now i have to pull the engine and rebuild it and possibly sleeve it. i just have no knowledge on any ford tractors and very little on other brands.


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## jhngardner367 (Apr 5, 2011)

Then you have come to the right forum,young man!
Many here,are familiar with them,and will,I'm sure be glad to help !
WELCOME,to the FORUM !!


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## Guest (Jan 16, 2018)

Hi reebadoo, before proceeding, I would suggest you find the engine serial number (my experience is that it's not the same as the tractor) most likely you'll find it above the oil pan on the left side. With the engine serial number in hand, the experts here, or your NH parts man should be able to tell you about the specifics of the engine the factory put in your tractor. Ford factories were frugal and sometimes sleeved some engines to downsize the cubic inches (from a higher hp model) if the engine didn't work out at a larger displacement. But the engine serial number tells all. At least as new as that tractor is, it's unlikely that someone has already rebuilt it. But.....first things first, why do you think it needs rebuilding?


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

Graysonr said:


> Hi reebadoo, before proceeding, I would suggest you find the engine serial number (my experience is that it's not the same as the tractor) most likely you'll find it above the oil pan on the left side. With the engine serial number in hand, the experts here, or your NH parts man should be able to tell you about the specifics of the engine the factory put in your tractor. Ford factories were frugal and sometimes sleeved some engines to downsize the cubic inches (from a higher hp model) if the engine didn't work out at a larger displacement. But the engine serial number tells all. At least as new as that tractor is, it's unlikely that someone has already rebuilt it. But.....first things first, why do you think it needs rebuilding?


the engine sn is E6NN-6015-EA

i removed the oil drain plug and there was straight coolant for a few inches of a 5 gallon bucket then it came out mixed. we had to start it to get it moved into position but then we drained the oil and it came out as a tan mix of oil and coolant. then i pressure tested the radiator hoping it was just the oil cooler in the radiator that had a issue between the passages but the water that we filled it with started coming out of the oil pan. i removed the plug just to see if the water would come out.


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## Guest (Jan 16, 2018)

That looks like an engine casting number (raised letters about 1" high) rather than a serial number (about 3/8" high stamped into the block lip where the pan attaches on mine). You have now had all the wisdom I possess and I suggest you wait for one of the more experienced members who watch this forum to help out. If it ran on 6 cylinders when you moved it, sounds more like a blown head gasket than a cracked block to me, but to be honest, since owning my tractor, my new bff is a good mechanic! A chat face to face with your NH parts man with all your data in hand might also be a good idea just to see what you are facing price wise. Also, you mentioned this was a work project for school, so what's your advisor at school say about the symptoms?


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

ive heard that the cylinders are prone to having holes in the cylinders. from cavitation and and we filled the radiator and pressurized it with a snapon pressure tester. and it only held pressure for a few minutes but the water was running out of the cold engine oil pan.


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## Guest (Jan 16, 2018)

General line of thought is to start with the less expensive problem first. Have you done compression tests on the engine? fuel off, throttle wide open, air cleaner out and only injector on cylinder being tested out . This would tell you if you have a cylinder compromised. I'm not a diesel guy, but you don't want the engine to fire when doing compression checks. A good test is all cylinders within 10% of the others.


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

when it runs, its smooth and there is no white smoke. it has some black smoke but thats to much fuel being injected while cranking. but we im going to take the oil pan off and pressurize the cooling system. im trying not to run or crank the engine over because of how much coolant was in the oil and i dont want to spin any bearings or do something to damage the block. as it is depending on what is wrong if its something to do with the cylinders than ill have a counter bore and a sleeve put in then its new gaskets and and rings and bearings all around.


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## Guest (Jan 16, 2018)

An oil fill up so you can do compression checks is inexpensive and you can leave the radiator empty, even open any water petcocks on the engine to drain all possible coolant, but the compression checks will tell you a lot. If they're good, you know the problem in not in the cylinders. If they are low, you can put a couple tablespoons of oil in each cylinder and redo the compression checks....this will tell you the condition of the rings. In my opinion, you should do the 2 rounds of compression checks before removing the pan. That should not be done needlessly.


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## Guest (Jan 16, 2018)

Parts for a rebuild are going to run about $2K or more.


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

im planning on putting new rings in after i have it sleeved. and checking over the head and all of the engine. but right now to get the oil pan off we have to move the front axle out of the way or move it forward about an inch and a half. or so to get the bolts off and then to check where the block is leaking from.


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## tractormike (Jan 12, 2017)

Some Ford tractors have info on the under side of hood if tractor has hinged hood


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

If that is the original block they had a propensity to cavitate and eat through the cylinder walls from the water jacket in toward the piston. If one cylinder is holed, there are others on the verge and there is no way to inspect for damage short of xray. 

I would not bore and sleeve the old block on one cylinder, but do them all with new dry liners.

These engines are critical regarding keeping the coolant treated with supplemental coolant additive to prevent cavitation erosion. The SCA will not stop the formation of cavitation bubbles, but will provide a protective barrier between the liner and the cavitation-causing bubbles. SCAs generally form a barrier with the use of nitrite, the level of which needs to be monitored in the cooling system on a regular basis, and simple strip test kits are readily available. 

As the cavitation bubbles ping against the liner, they remove the layer of nitrite rather than the liner itself. The layer of nitrite is then replenished by the SCA. So it is a regenerative cycle, but can be depleted quickly, hence the need for periodic testing.


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

btc 61a09 cd28a is the stamped number on the side of the engine. unfortunately it needs to be bored and or sleeved anyway. the sides of the cylinder walls have some marks and and odd wear i guess it has sat for a while and it needs new bearings without a doubt. now i just hope the hole is in the cylinder not the lifter valley. otherwise ill be looking for a new engine block. or looking into an engine swap....


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

Check the valve cover, you may find the data tag with the following information:
• OE engineering number (with 6007 in the middle)
• Model Year
• Horsepower Rating
• Rated Speed

Your new Holland dealer can also help with exact identification, and they sell remanufactured short blocks for generally less than machining and rebuilding costs: https://partstore.agriculture.newho...fac785d6a8f2f6aaff40a842a12db&sl=EN&currency=

Also try Andy Keyes 262-206-1297, I expect he can put you onto a source for full 474 ci direct bolt-in for less money than attempting to bore and sleeve an unknown condition 401 engine.

The 401 and newer 474 are bulletproof if kept serviced and the coolant additive maintained. A lot of them are running well over 7,000 hours by guys that refuse to trade newer for less durable tractors.


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

i got the block back and sleeved. they had to deck the top of the block by.006 and all 6 cylinders were sleeved. i had the head rebuilt as long as it was there. the crank was just polished, now it's all coming back together. its a 401, standard bore on the sleeves. so its coming back together nicely. i cut open the oil filter to probe around and see what was in the filter and it came back with very few flakes.


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## Guest (Feb 24, 2018)

Glad it's all coming together for you.


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## reebadoo (Jan 12, 2018)

its just been taking time to get it correct and back together without screwing something up.. lmao


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