# Ouch!



## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

I cut down a lot of Locust trees last year on the back 12 acres of my property. This area is occasionally mowed or topped off with a Rotary Cutter, and the only finish mowing I do is path to an area to and around my pond.

Today I decided to finish mow a new path along my creek. I found one of the Locust tree stumps:

<img src=http://www.homepage.mac.com/userosx/.Pictures/bs.JPG>

What's even worse, is the the flush indentations on the mower deck where this spindle bolts on is bent a little bit by one of the bolt holes, so when the spindle is seated, it and the blade shaft are at a slight angle. Any suggestions on how to beat back the bent mounting area on the deck?


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Hammer and dolly just like any metal work. If you're not familiar with using a body hammer and a dolly, you need to start out by working in an offset fashion. That is, you place the dolly under the part that is still straight and put pressure upward while you carefully hammer the high spot down. Continue working from both ends to the middle until you get the area back to where it should be.

If you just back up the high spot with the dolly and beat it back down, you will more than likely strech the metal and then you will need to shrink it with a torch and water.


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Hammer and dolly just like any metal work. If you're not familiar with using a body hammer and a dolly, you need to start out by working in an offset fashion. That is, you place the dolly under the part that is still straight and put pressure upward while you carefully hammer the high spot down. Continue working from both ends to the middle until you get the area back to where it should be.
> 
> If you just back up the high spot with the dolly and beat it back down, you will more than likely strech the metal and then you will need to shrink it with a torch and water. *


What type of dolly. There are different types, right?


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## slipshod (Sep 19, 2003)

*Dolly*

A blonde one about 28 years old, 38-24-36 would work well.


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

*Re: Dolly*



> _Originally posted by slipshod _
> *A blonde one about 28 years old, 38-24-36 would work well. *


yeah, buddy! :crazy:


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

You could use the hammer and dolly method, o just a hammer and an opposing heavy weight, be it another hammer, chunck of steel or such. You could also use a flat piece of steel or angle iron, and drill a hole in it, to fit the bolt hole in the deck, make a spacer to fit between this piece of steel and the deck, insert bolt and nut and use it like a lever to work the metal back to position. I have hit a ton of stumps and snags over the years and at most maybe bent a blade (mostly with my new GX335 JD) or threw or broke a belt, but never seen a spindle housing assembly bust like that, even when I hit a 2" piece of pipe that was stickin up out of the ground and was embeded in concrete. Are you sure your spindle housings are tight and secure to the deck?


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Mow
Chip's method sounds good too! Would make strecthing the metal less likely. 

If you do get a dolly ( I like slips version!) get what's called a toe dolly. They are about 4-5" long and about 2 1/2" wide. One side is perfectly flat and the other very slightly domed. Use the flat side and wear safety glasses. Sometimes the cheaper dollies that you find in an autoparts store will chip.


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

Whatever you do especially if you use a dolly is do not strike the dollys surface with a hammer. Not only will el cheapo dollies chip and spawl off but sos will the best made ones. They are made and hardened pretty darn hard, and a hard blow directly on these dollys can make em spawl.........Just like taking a hamamer in each hand and whacking each hamers face together or using a hatchet in a confined space like removing roots and hgitting the hatchets head with a hammer to make it cut. I just basicallt banged two hammers together one day when I was a kid (not cheap hammers, but the good old True Temper Rocket, best inits day) and a piece chipped off and hit me in the knuckle and another hit me in my inside of my elbow joint in the arm........had to go to the doctor to get the pieces removed, it was just like shrapnel. So wear gloves and safety glasses like six chows suggested and don;t hit that dolly or any other hardened surface on other tools etc with another hardened or hard surfaced tool.


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. I'll check on a new spindle housing tommorow and try to get back up to my property later in the week to work on the deck and mount the new part.

*Chipmaker*, the mounting bolts were tight when I took the spindle off. When the housing fractured and the deck surface bent, it put the pulley shaft at an angle which made the blade attached to hit the other blade beside it, just barely. It made a good racket, kind of like a fan hitting a shroud.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

If I am not mistaken, that mower deck is 7 gauge steel. It is a single stamped out piece. We are better be talking about a BIG sledge hammer and big dolly. I would suggest removing the mower deck from the tractor and then placing some 6 x 6 blocks underneith and then try to hammer the bent area back into positon with a 8 lb. or larger hammer. Try running this question by the dealer. I bet they have repaired something like this before.


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *If I am not mistaken, that mower deck is 7 gauge steel. It is a single stamped out piece. We are better be talking about a BIG sledge hammer and big dolly. I would suggest removing the mower deck from the tractor and then placing some 6 x 6 blocks underneith and then try to hammer the bent area back into positon with a 8 lb. or larger hammer. Try running this question by the dealer. I bet they have repaired something like this before. *


Not sure about the thickness, Chief. It doesn't seem like 7 guage, but I'm not where I can go look at it. It is not a "7 Iron" deck, and oddly enough, I don't see the 62" MMM offered on the 2210 at JD's website, so I can look at the specs.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Sorry to read about your misfortune Mow. I sure hope you can get it repaired on the cheap.


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *Sorry to read about your misfortune Mow. I sure hope you can get it repaired on the cheap. *


You might be able to substitute "a case of the dumb*ss" for "misfortune", Chief.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

We all have had a case of that at some point.   I guess you are looking for a small rotary cutter now? Better to cut grown up areas with something like that.


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## guest2 (Dec 27, 2003)

Mow
Do they sell just the deck shell in case you're not happy with the repair? Maybe you can just transfer all the parts over to a new shell? I know this isn't something you want to hear but that might be the worst case scenario, hopefully not necessary. Good luck anyway!


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *We all have had a case of that at some point.   I guess you are looking for a small rotary cutter now? Better to cut grown up areas with something like that. *


I got an LX4 awhile back. I was going over an area that been cut with the LX4 to make a more "finished" path along my creek. Next time I''l drive back to the barn and get the RC.  

Here's a pic of the LX4


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by sixchows _
> *Mow
> Do they sell just the deck shell in case you're not happy with the repair? Maybe you can just transfer all the parts over to a new shell? I know this isn't something you want to hear but that might be the worst case scenario, hopefully not necessary. Good luck anyway! *


Not sure, but being that it is painted yellow, I'd be afraid to price it! I am concerned about maintaining the great cut quality. The damage is on the middle blade assembly. The bend in the deck is really not as bad as I probably made it sound. It seems to be a small deflection were the broken piece was bolted on. But it is enough to affect the shaft angle. I'll be happy if I can get it reasonably close. I don't think it really has to be mic'd into spec, but I hope I can get it real close.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Do you have the 54 or 62 inch deck?


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *Do you have the 54 or 62 inch deck? *


I have the 62" deck. It's reall easy to take on and off, and gives (gave) a great cut.


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Also, is it a high or low serial # deck? (i.e. 040001 - ) or (- 040000)


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

Assuming a high serial # deck part #AM133566. The deck stamping lists for $1,072.50. I think you want to try and fix this one. mg:


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *Also, is it a high or low serial # deck? (i.e. 040001 - ) or (- 040000) *


Chief, All I have it the sales invoice which has the MMM listed as MO62CBC033***. I have the number written down in the OM, but that as well as the MMM are not where I can access them right now.


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chief _
> *Assuming a high serial # deck part #AM133566. The deck stamping lists for $1,072.50. I think you want to try and fix this one. mg: *


Ouch! (again)


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

Even if it was torn or cracked its still fixable. You can do a alot with a decent piece of steel and alsmost any repair will make it ijust as strong as a new one wold be.........if you were in the area I would just tell you to bring it on by the shop and we could easily fix it........sight unseen, as there is not much you can't do to a piece of steel to make it right...........

Bare deck stampings are priceya s he!!. I know they wanted over $500 for a replacement 38" deck for my old JD180........which was worn paper thin at the backside of the deck all along where the blades slung dirt and debri etc. You could put your fingers through it in some spots it was worn and eroded so thin. I saved the $$$ and cut the old thin stuff out, and saved the bottom lip of the deck and mig welded in a new piece about 3" wide the entire backside of the deck, and ground down the welds, and painted it, and you cold not tell it was ever repaired...........just like new. Took about 4 hours of my time.


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Chipmaker _
> *Even if it was torn or cracked its still fixable. You can do a alot with a decent piece of steel and alsmost any repair will make it ijust as strong as a new one wold be.........if you were in the area I would just tell you to bring it on by the shop and we could easily fix it........sight unseen, as there is not much you can't do to a piece of steel to make it right...........
> 
> Bare deck stampings are priceya s he!!. I know they wanted over $500 for a replacement 38" deck for my old JD180........which was worn paper thin at the backside of the deck all along where the blades slung dirt and debri etc. You could put your fingers through it in some spots it was worn and eroded so thin. I saved the $$$ and cut the old thin stuff out, and saved the bottom lip of the deck and mig welded in a new piece about 3" wide the entire backside of the deck, and ground down the welds, and painted it, and you cold not tell it was ever repaired...........just like new. Took about 4 hours of my time. *


Thanks for the encouragement. :thumbsup: I noticed today that there were a few spots that were completely free of grass buildup and were like polished stainless steel. I bet these are the areas that will eventually wear through.


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## memmurphy (Sep 18, 2003)

I noticed some shiny spots like that on my 38" deck. Plus there is a gouge where the blade hit the deck after I caught a tree root against the front right next to the discharge chute the first time I used it. :argh: The blade clearance to the deck is smaller than on my old mower. I guess that helps it cut better.

Mark


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

*Plus there is a gouge where the blade hit the deck after I caught a tree root against the front right next to the discharge chute the first time I used it. * 

That's what I call "breaking it in quick", Mark. :lmao:


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## memmurphy (Sep 18, 2003)

> _Originally posted by MowHoward2210 _
> *
> That's what I call "breaking it in quick", Mark. :lmao: *


The neighbors were setting on the front porch watching during the incident. They also watched as I brought a hatchet from the shed and chopped the root out. The health of my tree was not of great concern at that moment. They never left out a peep. The hatchet in my hand and my state of mind at the time must have frightened them. :lmao: 

Mark


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by memmurphy _
> *The neighbors were setting on the front porch watching during the incident. They also watched as I brought a hatchet from the shed and chopped the root out. The health of my tree was not of great concern at that moment. They never left out a peep. The hatchet in my hand and my state of mind at the time must have frightened them. :lmao:
> 
> Mark *


It's probably a good thing they *didn't* say anything! :furious: :furious:

BTW I bought a replacement spindle today. The partsman at JD said you can't buy the spindle housing only, it comes as a unit. I thought oh great, I might as well bend over now. Well it turned out it is just the housing and the bearings, and does not include the shaft with the grease fitting. It was $35, and at least I didn't have to hassle with taking bearings out, and pressing them back in. It was also good that I could use the old shaft. So I guess I'm only a little pissed about not being able to get the housing only.


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## Archdean (Jul 15, 2004)

Mow,
Im sure you already did this , roll the spindle on a true flat surface to check for bend/distoration, ie. out of round.
Dean


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by Archdean _
> *Mow,
> Im sure you already did this , roll the spindle on a true flat surface to check for bend/distoration, ie. out of round.
> Dean *


Done deal! I was glad it was ok.


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## Chipmaker (Sep 16, 2003)

Thats not a bad price for the housing especially if it contained the bearings.......THe local JD dealer here used to charge 75 bucks for a housing for the JD180.........and $18 for each bearing........and a complete spindle assembly housing, bearings and spindle would set you back a good $150........If I cold have bought spindle housings for that price I would not have taken the time to cast my own back then, but I did come up with one great design that worked great and was bullet proof........someitmes I wished I kept that old JD 180 for the rough cutting and brush areas. 

Yep the shiney areas you see on the deck bottom, will overtime get thinner and thinner,. A lot has to do with the type soils you have as well., Mine are sandy, so that wear area from the blades was always being abrasive blasted each time you used it. 

You would be surprised at how thin decks are in a lot of places. Just because a deck is stamped out of say a piece of 10 ga or 7 ga material does not mean its gonna be that gage steel over the entire area. The steel has to be strethched and shrunk n the press die, and in some of the areas its barely equal to 16 ga, from being drawn and stretched to shape. What folks generally see are the flat sides or ends of the deck and oh and ah at just ow thick that piece of steel is, unfortunately that entire deck is gonna vary quite a bit in lots of areas........


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

Chipmaker, Sixchows, Chief and the other competent "metal guys" don't read this. You'll probably cringe.


I finally got around to fixing my deck spindle mounting area. I was in a pinch (I don't actually live at my acreage yet) so I tackled the repair with a 3lb hammer and a a piece of wood. I leaned the deck up against the vertical bumper strips on my Wagoneer, which worked great. The wood proved worthless, so I just used the hammer and adjusted the damaged area by sight, feel, and a square. I also would temporararily place the spindle and shaft with blade attached to see the plane of the blade in relation to the other two blades. 

I finally got it to where the spindle would seat all the way around, and to where the shaft axis was perpendicular to the deck. I got the middle (where the damage was) blade to be perfectly even with blade next to it. It lines up with the other blade with a little less than an eight of an inch difference. If you eyeball the horizontal plane of the 6" pulley, it is off about 3/32" from one end to the other, using the top front of the deck for a sight reference.

I took it out to mow, and it cut great like it always did and the deck seemed balanced.

I realize I probably should have waited to procure the right tools for the job, but I didn't for time reasons. The area that I repaired is recessed for the spindles and was real PITA to repair. Should I worry about the axis of the spindle *appearing* to be off ever so slightly or just leave it alone?


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## jodyand (Sep 16, 2003)

What ever works at the moment Thats what i always say:lmao:


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

> _Originally posted by jodyand _
> *What ever works at the moment Thats what i always say:lmao: *


That was my feeling too after ******* with it all afternoon. :tellyou:


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## Live Oak (Dec 22, 2003)

I would say if it cuts like it used to and the belt alignment is good. Don't mess with success.


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## balmoralboy (May 22, 2004)

IMHO you should keep an eye on it for awhile. If it is going to shift under load it will probably happen during the first couple of times it's under load....... or the first time you hit something.

find something now to use a reference that can be measured, such as the blade to blade offset you measured and record it. Then if you think it is moving, you can recheck the measurement and see how much you have lost.


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## MowHoward2210 (Nov 2, 2003)

Thanks, Jim. I had planned to pull the deck off after the next time I mow to check and retighten the spindle nuts. I hadn't thought about remeasuring.


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## memmurphy (Sep 18, 2003)

If I had done that on our old Wagoneer, I would have needed a scoop shovel to clean the rust off the floor.  

Just keep an eye on it for belt chafing and any alignment changes for a while. It will probably last as long as the rest of the deck providing you keep it off the stumps.  

Mark


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