# 1974 4000 diesel that didn't cooperate



## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Hi All. New to the forum and thought I might as well jump in with the new project coming Tomorrow. It is a Ford 4000 series tractor. I dont have all the numbers yet but I found out that the tractor is running 10 lug rims with 12.6-38 rears. looking up the specs it said that it should have 8 lug 12.6-28 tires. Which is right. It does have a loader on it and the tires are loaded which makes sense ( More weight in back for loader) I believe that the tractor has a blown head gasket and is rougher than a cob but I got it at rock bottom prices. Be a Diamond in the rough in the north country. Let me know what you think. A lot more questions coming soon.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Ford built two completely different 4000s.
The first one was a continuation of the older red/gray tractors from the 1950s. It has a FOUR cylinder gas or diesel engine.
The second 4000 they built had a THREE cylinder gas or diesel engine and was a completely new, ground-up design which was introduced in 1965.
Count the number of spark plugs (or injectors if a diesel) and get back to us. Without at least that much info we won't be able to help much.
A couple/few pictures would help a lot too.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)




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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

for some reason the last 2 pics show as a thumbnail? Anyway she is home and now the work can commence. I will get numbers ( I believe that the ser no is on the boss by the starter, correct me if I am wrong. she is a 3 cyl. Diesel and like I said earlier I believe she has a blown head gaskert. I plan to remove the loader so it will be a lot easier to work on the engine. clean all screens filters tanks new oil and she should purr like a kitten. I will need a lot of advice so bare with me so I can get more info.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Well here are some more Pics. this is of a tag under the bonnet above the battery


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

The number pad by the starter was heavily rusted and all I could make out was a 25B and under that was 12 with a star behind the 2. not much help there. other numbers I found was center of engine by seam of oil pan on the right side was *D659477*. On the left bell housing was 4J 26B and under that was C7 018. on the rear diff at the split between the tranny and rear dif was LB41 B06 4D12B. other than that it is all I could quickly find.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I am wrong... I hear that all the time from my chief petty officer. The wheels are 8 lug wheels and have 12.6-38 tires on back. The front are mismatched one tri rib and a car tire. With the loader I would think the front tires are very important and should have HD tires. What do you think. One of the rears is oozing calcium out of it so I would think the tube is toast and the tire just as bad. Whit the numbers I have it it identifiable? Thanks


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The sticker under the hood is wrong, it is a 4000.
The date codes found points to 1974.

Get back to the numbers on the lug behind the starter and try to sand it with ~300 grit paper on a block.
A picture showing the front axle could tell a lot.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

5000 hood will not fit on a 4000 - too long.
Rear end says its a 4000 chassis.
Steering says it's a 4000 AP.
Loader is off a Utility. Probably a 4400.
It's a great tractor.
Congrats!


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Thanks for the info guys. The hood fits like crap. A bit more time and all her secrets will be reviled. more to come. As paul Harvey used to say " Now the rest of the story"


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

It's a Ford and a bit of blue paint later on and it will look great.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Once you get the loader off you can get in there with a wire wheel on a 4"grinder - or at least that's what I use. Some ordinary blackboard chaulk will help too.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I was able to remove the bucket last night after work. It was held on with a pair of grand maws garters. Now for the arms tonight.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I was able to remove the arms of the loader tonight almost ruptured a kidney in the process. I think the base of the loader will stay in place for now as I am just not able to remove it myself. I was able to get a pic. of the boss by the starter reveling another number. now that I have had time to look it over a bit I have questions. On the rear diff. there is an auxiliary hyd. valve. just below it on the right side is a lever. I dont know what it does. can any one tell me what it does.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

couple of more pics. The first picture with the circle in red[/ATTACH]





















is the little lever i am asking about and the arrow is what I believe should be a diff. lock but there is no shaft coming out of the differential. and the last pic shows the high degree of maintenance the previous owner showed this tractor.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

D1014C = 4000, Agricultural All Purpose, Diesel, Independent 540 PTO, 8 Speed
The 25B would be that it was built on the 25th day of the month, on Dayshift. the first few numbers and letters are not visible in your photo.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The lever in the circle is for draft/position control (3-point behaviour) and the diff lock is actuated with the pedal.
You can read all about it in the Owner´s Manual:
https://www.tractorforum.com/manuals/ford-2000-3000-4000-5000-operators-service-manual.2/
http://www.ntractorclub.com/manuals... and LCG Tractors 2000,3000,4000,and 5000.pdf

Good info in the Shop Manual as well:
https://www.tractorforum.com/manuals/ford-2000-3000-4000-3-cyl-1-65-12-74-shop-manual.6/


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

They're a good project.. If u find yourself in need of fuel injection work.. pump/injectors... give me a shout..


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## Tim Persky (Jun 4, 2020)

Bogbilly said:


> I am wrong... I hear that all the time from my chief petty officer. The wheels are 8 lug wheels and have 12.6-38 tires on back. The front are mismatched one tri rib and a car tire. With the loader I would think the front tires are very important and should have HD tires. What do you think. One of the rears is oozing calcium out of it so I would think the tube is toast and the tire just as bad. Whit the numbers I have it it identifiable? Thanks


This is just my opinion but I don't think most tractor rear tires have tube's. Mine are full of water since I have a loader on mine and I'm pretty sure no tubes.
I bet any tire would work on the front but of course since this is a project just get the proper tire ya know. My grand pa had 4 different tires on his for as long as I can remember but it had to be functional not pretty.


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## Tim Persky (Jun 4, 2020)

It always amazes me when I see these old units. If they built cars like they build NH tractors you would never need to buy another one.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Tim Persky said:


> This is just my opinion but I don't think most tractor rear tires have tube's. Mine are full of water since I have a loader on mine and I'm pretty sure no tubes.
> I bet any tire would work on the front but of course since this is a project just get the proper tire ya know. My grand pa had 4 different tires on his for as long as I can remember but it had to be functional not pretty.


Ford tractors of that era had tubes - both front and rear.


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## LHS (Aug 28, 2019)

Tim Persky said:


> It always amazes me when I see these old units. If they built cars like they build NH tractors you would never need to buy another one.


Exactly!


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

In my younger days we had tractors on the farm that had loaded tires and all had tubes. Do they now load tubeless tires? I have to thank Hacke for the downloads. They helped a lot. 
At the start of this thread i mentioned that I thought the head gasket was gone. I said that because there was a lot of water in the base. I drained it and after closer examination the exhaust was wide open and letting water enter the engine. I removed the exhaust pipe from the manifold and sealed it. The coolant in the radiator was empty. The motor is not stuck and turns over with starter. My question to you guys is do i go ahead and install a head gasket or do i top up fluids and start it?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

It is not unlikely that you have a perforation in one of your cylinder bores. Those Ford diesels are well known for that.
Heavy vibration causes microscopic bubbles to form in the coolant which erode the water jacket into the cylinder. The fix is to bore and sleeve it back to standard.
I would be tempted to do a pressure test on the cooling system - before you pull the head.
Disconnect both radiator hoses from the engine and fashion a cap or plug for one opening on the thermostat housing and another with a tire schrader valve on the water pump. Put a guage on it and pressurize it to maybe 20 psi.
Then let it sit and see if the pressure leaks off.
A couple of mission couplings and some plastic fittings would not be too expensive from Home Depot and if you kept them clean you could return them afterwards wink, wink.
Photo shows a mission coupling if you don't know what they are.
Get the metal wrapped ones as shown not the all rubber type.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Thanks for the idea Ultradog. This would answer the question of where the water came from, but would not differentiate between head gasket or possible cavitation erosion. Will have to go to the depot. Thanks again ultradog


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Bogbilly said:


> This would answer the question of where the water came from, but would not differentiate between head gasket or possible cavitation erosion.


Good point. I will think on that one today.
Where are you located?
If you do have cavitation, I have Two good 201 blocks here.
One has new sleeves and cam bearings in it.
The other is a much later BSD "X" block.
I'd let either of them go for much less than a bore/sleeve job.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Sounds good ultradog. Will see 2hat comes from the test. How long should the block hold 20lbs . If it fails i will pull the head. Can you visually see the cylinder wall porosity if it is not the head. I have seen it on a cat engine before.. that was a lot easier to fix than dry sleeving.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I am in New Brunswick Canada


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Bogbilly said:


> Sounds good ultradog. Will see 2hat comes from the test. How long should the block hold 20lbs . If it fails i will pull the head. Can you visually see the cylinder wall porosity if it is not the head. I have seen it on a cat engine before.. that was a lot easier to fix than dry sleeving.


If your connections to the engine are tight the water jacket should hold pressure almost indefinately.
If you do lose pressure, do a soap/bubble test around your connections just to make sure they are tight.
Yes, you can see a perforation in the bore. Sometimes it's not very obvious though, just a small rust spot.
If you do pull the head, closely inspect both sides of the gasket, head and block for any imperfections. You may get lucky and all it is is the gasket. Let's hope it is that simple for you.
If/when you have the head off look at how much ring ridge you have and try to move the pistons sideways. Give us a SWAG how loose in the bores they are. 
Look closely to see if the engine has been sleeved before. You can see them in the top of the block if it has. Lastly, if you have a dial calipers measure the bores. That will tell you if it was bored oversize in the past and not sleeved.
These are all things I've learned to do over the years. Like an archeologist digging for clues you can build a picture of what has transpired with an engine in the past.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Thanks Ultrabog, do the pistons in this engine have a dish in the top. I could put a mag base and a dial indicator on the block to measure movement. Do the sleeves have a rim or are they straight? I do have a set of inside micrometers so i can measure bores. I will let you guys know what i find. Thanks


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Pistons have a pretty good dish.
Clean one is for a diesel. Used one is for a gasser.
No need for the dial indicator. Just wiggle the piston back and forth and you can see how much slop there us. Ring ridge tells you a lot too.
Two types of sleeves. Flanged sleeve is pretty easy to see. Wide band around the bore.
Straight sleeve is much harder to see and can fool you. Thin band around the bore. Hard to get a good photo for you. Block is upside down on the shelf. Layed on my back to get this poor photo for you 
Both types commonly used.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Thanks Ultradog, sorry for putting you on your back.... there is something strange about the fro t tin around the rad. It looks like someone cut it up and silversoldered it back together. All suggestion of a grill is gone. Checked to see what parts and pieces i had in my plumbing cabinet and found some pieces to cap the cooling system. All i need is a shrader valve and a couping. Time will tell weather the head gets pulled tomorrow. I ckecked trans fluid level and is way over full. I expect water. Will be draining tomorrow. I will be checking the rear dif also. Thanks for the help all.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Too bad you're not closer.
I have a real clean nose off a 4400. It is the same as yours except it's yellow.
Have quite a few parts from that era and am going to slow down on messing with them. Have 3 Fords and that's enough. Going to get rid of some stuff.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

By the way,
My forebears came through your part of the world.
I'm sure you know the history up there better than I do - all the fighting between the French and British. The 7 Years War and the French and Indian Wars.
We were in Acadia when the Brits won the French possessions on the continent and forced the French to swear allegiance to the British Crown and so many of them wouldn't. So they burned their farms and deported them all.
Stubborn fools.
My family escaped to Quebec province. Some went to New Orleans where a couple of us were hanged with the pirate Jean Lafitte. My part of the family eventually migrated down from Quebec to the USA in the early 1800s and settled in Wisconsin and Minnesota.
We're still a bunch of stubborn fools


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Well I have to say that I went the other way. I started in the states and moved willingly to Canada. I was raised in Maine and foolishly took up the Bagpipes. I traveled to New Brunswick for instructions and met a Lovely lady who was foolish enough to Like a worn out old Scott. The rest is history. It is too bad because I will need most tins as they are in a sorry state. Trucking will cost an arm and a leg. While I am writing another post I found a device that has tubing coming from the intake manifold and goes to the top hose of the injectors and one to the fuel tank. What is this? I will try to get a pic of it.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

It is a flame heater for cold starts, called Thermostart.
See the Shop Manual, Page 51, Paragraph 162.

A 4000 use to have an arrangement where the excess fuel from the injectors filled a reservoir at the tank inlet, before being dumped into the tank:
https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/64887/20594/498815/
At pre-heating, the reservoir supplies the Thermostart with fuel.

Later models did not have the reservoir, and only the fuel in the line was used at pre-heating:
https://avspare.com/catalog/newholland/52323/20771/498799/

Your equipment looks like the later one, but the T-connection is at the Thermostart?
And of course, there need to be an electric wire attached to it, as well.

Some illustrations:


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I saw a video that showed a guy that used a wire with a bit of rag on the end ,diped in diesel. He lit it and stuck it i to the open intake manifold and started his tractor that way. At the time i thought him daft. Now i owe him an apology.


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## FredM (Nov 18, 2015)

What would you think if the rag was sucked off of the wire and into the inlet port and then got stuck under an inlet valve, the valve may or may not get bent and because the valve couldn't shut, there would be no compression ignition to burn the rag away, just my thought, if I had to preheat, I would use a gas burner like you can get to mount on the small gas can.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Here are a couple photos of the setup I used to pressurize the block to see if it would hold air. Thanks to Ultradog.














I put 20 PSI of air on the block and it dropped 10 PSI in about 1.5 seconds. to 10 psi and then it took about 5 seconds to completely drop. I soaped the connections and no bubbles. I soaped the shaft on the water pump and no bubbles. I did this about 10 times. my conclusion is the head is coming off and I will check head gasket. while it is off I will check for flatness of the head and valve condition. will let you guys know.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Didn't see this till now.
Good test!
Heads don't often warp on those 3 bangers. They are pretty stout.
You can do your own test for flatness. Go back to Home Depot and buy a new framing square.
With the head clean use it with a bright light behind it to look for light underneath. Go end to end and corner to corner. You can easily see a couple thou warpage.
Keep the square clean and well, you know THAT drill...


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I am going to move the tractor into my shop and pull the head there. I have a 2 foot precision straight edge so checking flatness is no problem. I just dont want to find a rust hole in a cylinder. Parts are ordered so the only thing holding progress up is me finding time to work at it. Will post pics.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Hi guys, moved the tractor into the shop with the wife's assistance. first time ever on a tractor. The son usually helps with such things but he is away doing college work. I got home from work tonight and started to pull her down. pulled the hood and found the first surprise. the manifold had been broken and they cobbled stuff together so they could stick a muffler in the hole. second problem came when All of the exhaust manifold bolts came out but the long one in the middle. There wasn't enough of the stud and nut to even resemble a fastener. I ground it flush and still the manifold wouldn't come off of the stud. I took a cutoff wheel in the grinder and cut into the manifold about an inch from the head where the stud went through the manifold and cut the stud off. I will need a new manifold anyway. the rest of the tear down went with out a hitch. Pulled the head and all three cylinders look like they have seen water. the head gasket looks to me as there was blow by between all three cylinders. Parts are on the way and I think I will take a ball hone to the cylinders just to clean them up a bit. I could not feel a ridge on the top of the cylinders and there was very little side to side play between piston and cylinder. Maybe .003-.004 thousands. I do not see signs of liners.










































The head looks to have a lot of carbon build up. Here are some pics . what do you think?


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

It's hard to tell from pictures but I do not see evidence of a failed head gasket. Could you use a pointer or mark them for me where you think they failed ?
I would drop the pan and pull the pistons. Then hone the bores. They might clean up. Measure them - since you say you have the tools and inspect for perforation/s.
These bores were not as nice. I was fortunate that they had been sleeved before and the sleeves came out with the pistons.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I haven't had time to get back to the project but what I saw is the place marked in Red circle. There is carbon on the metal sealing ring on the gasket where there shouldn't be. on the pic below see where the red arrows are. compare it to where the green arrow is. There is a buildup of carbon where it should be clean. What do you think. enlarge the pic and look at the space between cyl #1 and 2. Or maybe It is not the place. When I pulled the head bolts the bolts in the rocker arm shaft were very loose. the outside ones were tight. Good suggestion Alphadog I think it wise to pull the pistons and hone the cylinders to clean and mike them. It will give me a chance to clean the pan out and check the lower end. what is the method you use to pull the injectors. Mine seem to be stuck in the bores. Any tips?














What do you think.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Bogbilly said:


> I haven't had time to get back to the project but what I saw is the place marked in Red circle. There is carbon on the metal sealing ring on the gasket where there shouldn't be. on the pic below see where the red arrows are. compare it to where the green arrow is. There is a buildup of carbon where it should be clean. What do you think. enlarge the pic and look at the space between cyl #1 and 2. Or maybe It is not the place. When I pulled the head bolts the bolts in the rocker arm shaft were very loose. the outside ones were tight. Good suggestion Alphadog I think it wise to pull the pistons and hone the cylinders to clean and mike them. It will give me a chance to clean the pan out and check the lower end. what is the method you use to pull the injectors. Mine seem to be stuck in the bores. Any tips?
> View attachment 60667
> View attachment 60669
> What do you think.


The arrows help. Yes, I see the discoloration now.
Still hard to say though - from here anyway. Loose head bolts is a good clue. Got my fingers crossed for luck for you.
I'm a carpenter so have a couple of cat's paw nail pullers and use a pair of those to pull the injectors - one on each side. Photo.
You can use a mechanic's pinch bars too.
Fyi, the nozzles (injector tips) protrude about 1/8" below the surface of the head. So don't set it upright on a hard surface or you'll damage them.
Also, you must slide the bolster (axle mount) forward about an inch to pull the pan on those.
I put the nose on mine this morning.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

In the middle of canning here this weekend. Corn peas and pickles, No time for my project. Cats paw sounds good. Your nose looks pristeen. Mine has been butchered and scabed back together. Wish we were closer as id be very interested in the nose you want to let go of. Ill look around here and see if i can dig one up. The guy who originally sold this tractor new is still in buisness but no longer a dealer. I will stop in and see if he might have one squireled away. You hve a real nice looking tractor Ultradog.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

One other thing is when the mrs. Helped get the tractor in the shop she said, and i quote "This thing needs to be painted". Now i dont know how you would take that statement, but i am taking it as permission to paint the tractor


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

I drove mine today.
First time it's been out of the garage in 16 months.
I basically bought it for the tin - which was exceptional, and the platform and row crop stuff.
It was a gas, Select O Speed.
I put an 8 speed with IPTO transmission and rear end in it (same as yours) and converted the engine to diesel.
Has been a lot of tinkering.
I've owned a few of the AP 4000s but this is my first RC. There are a Lot of differences even though they're the same engine and chassis.
Here's what it looked like before.
I'll get some more photos of it when I get the rest of the tin on.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I have had a chance to clean up some parts on the tractor this morning and got a better look at the head and block. This is the first time I have lifted the head on a ford 3 cyl. and not sure as what I am seeing. I will post a couple of pics and see what you think. One will show what I think to be sleeves though that is a guess. The other will show the head with a problem between cyl. 1 and 2. That is where I saw carbon on the head gasket on the sealing ring. The head will have to be milled to take this blemish out. The head itself is pretty flat .001-.002 feeler gauge in a couple places. The block is flat. except right at what I think is a liner you can catch your finger nail on the edge of the lip. I had a heck of a time pulling the injectors out of the head. They were rusted in. The top seal was very hard and must have let water in the bore of the injector. They are out and I believe by the looks of the tips I need to replace all 3 of them. I was able to pull the serial number off the tractor after a couple of minuets





















sanding with 120 grit paper. It is C446542 which makes this a 1974 Ap Diesel Independent with an 8 speed as was told to me earlier. The pic of the head is a bit blurry and does not show the depth of the blemish. It is about .007 deep at the worst spot. I will send it to the machine shop and have them vat the head check for cracks and mill the head till it cleans up. I have not pulled the valves out yet so as soon as I do I will see if it needs grinding. that will be very expensive here. If it does so be it. It is off and a good time to do it. Does anyone have a NAPA number for the ford blue paint? Well time to continue. Have a great day.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

By the looks of the intake valve in the pic above I am going to order all new valves and have the head ground and set up with new parts.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Bogbilly said:


> I have had a chance to clean up some parts on the tractor this morning and got a better look at the head and block. This is the first time I have lifted the head on a ford 3 cyl. and not sure as what I am seeing. I will post a couple of pics and see what you think. One will show what I think to be sleeves though that is a guess. The other will show the head with a problem between cyl. 1 and 2. That is where I saw carbon on the head gasket on the sealing ring. The head will have to be milled to take this blemish out. The head itself is pretty flat .001-.002 feeler gauge in a couple places. The block is flat. except right at what I think is a liner you can catch your finger nail on the edge of the lip. I had a heck of a time pulling the injectors out of the head. They were rusted in. The top seal was very hard and must have let water in the bore of the injector. They are out and I believe by the looks of the tips I need to replace all 3 of them. I was able to pull the serial number off the tractor after a couple of minuets
> View attachment 60937
> View attachment 60939
> View attachment 60941
> sanding with 120 grit paper. It is C446542 which makes this a 1974 Ap Diesel Independent with an 8 speed as was told to me earlier. The pic of the head is a bit blurry and does not show the depth of the blemish. It is about .007 deep at the worst spot. I will send it to the machine shop and have them vat the head check for cracks and mill the head till it cleans up. I have not pulled the valves out yet so as soon as I do I will see if it needs grinding. that will be very expensive here. If it does so be it. It is off and a good time to do it. Does anyone have a NAPA number for the ford blue paint? Well time to continue. Have a great day.


Pictures are kind of tantalizing. You can see but not touch and feel.
Those rings around the bores do look like sleeves to me. Can you catch them with a fingernail? 
If it was sleeved it would pretty much rule out a cavitation problem and indicate a problem with the deck, head or gasket.
I would suggest you have your machine shop make the decision whether you need new valves, springs, etc and not just arbitrarily buy them. Those parts are not that expensive but no sense buying what you don't need.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

BTW,
I have never bought tractor paint from Napa so cant say if they have it or not. They will likely sell a Ford Blue but it will be an automotive blue (ford engines in cars/trucks) and not the Empire Blue used from 1962-99 on Ag stuff.
Are your plans to give it a rattle can job? My experience with those is they fade rather quickly and just do not last. If you have spray equipment then for sure buying the paint in quarts is the way to go. Always use a hardener if you spray.
Another option if you don't have spray equipment is a brush job.
This is the bolster on my 4200 (4000 RC)
I have a little corner "office" in my garage which I can heat.
What you see is two coats with a good "china bristle" brush that I did last winter. I used Tisco paint straight out of the can.
I'm betting you have access to Tisco products up there?


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

That looks good Ultradog. I will have to check and see if we have that. I do have spray equipment so I think I will go that route. 
just a bit of an update. The head is in the machine shop as this is being written. Per there recommendation I will need to replace all 3 Exhaust valves and all 6 springs. They said that the intakes would clean up fine and would be better than aftermarket. The Ford/New Holland garage has got hold of an oem gasket set and head gasket. it is in and I tried to pick it up this morning but he must sleep in as he was not open at 10 A.M. I drained the tranny and the rear end and the tranny had water in it. I am trying to flush the case and put some heat on the casing to dry the internals out before i install new oil. The rear looked clean with no shiny bits in the oil. The leveling device on the 3 point hitch is frozen in place and am soaking it in penetrating oil. looks to be the little bevel gear to be stuck. Tryed to pull the top pin so I could get at it but the pin is stuck in the knuckle of the leveler. I could not find my 2 jaw puller to try to push it out so a search is underway. Will have pics of the parts before I reassemble. Good day to all and God Bless.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Hi Guys, sorry for being away for so long. It took the machine shop a lot longer than I hoped it would. They milled the head, installed 3 new intake valves, all new springs and valve seals. She looks like a new one. I got excited about getting the head I installed it before I took pics of it. I got a factory head gasket and gasket kit so it is starting back together. About a week ago I put about 2 gal. of diesel in the crank case and installed a new filter I spun it with the starter and forced clean diesel through the oil system. I was a bit skeptacle but the ford mechanic said they did it when they got one with water in the oil. I drained it out and boy what a pile of stuff came out of the crank case. now he then said to put 2 quarts of oil in the pan and spin it again and the oil will force the diesel out of the system. Then you drain that out. It looked pretty clean. now to continue the reassembly. I will try to get photos tomorrow.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

My 4000 has 13.6x38 rears and a mixed bag on the front. If a rear is leaking calcium, it needs immediate attention to keep from loosing the rim. I have not seen an older tractor that did not have tubes. If a tube is leaking, you need to find the cause before installing a new tube. Check the inside of the tire for thorns or nail or screw and put on an internal patch before installing a new tube. Also, coat the new tube with talcum powder applied with a brush. It will prevent the tube from pinching while inflating which can produce a hole in the tube. E-Bay has an excellent bead breaker fot tractor tires fo $65, tgat will save a lot of time and effort.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Thanks for the advice Ed. My plan is to install new rims and tires as the rims are very rusty and the tires are all but worn out. my plan is to not fill the tires but to use dry weights on the wheels. That way if and when I have a tire issue I don't have to mess with the loaded tires. mine are loaded with calcium and it looks like they have been leaking a long time. Like I said the rims are very rusty. I have not had enough time to take pics of the progress as there has been no progress. With winter approaching there is a lot to do to get ready. When things get done I will get back to working on the ford. I have been looking for a cab for the old girl as she will be used as a snow blower in the winter. would be nice to have a heater


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Hi All, I have reassembled the motor with the reconditioned head and new gaskets. I filled the coolant with HD coolant and let it set for a week. I wanted to see if any coolant leaked into the pan before I added oil. At the end of the week I pulled the plug and all that came out was a bit of old oil. just a few drops. I thought I was good to go so I filled the crankcase with fresh oil and installed a new filter. I left the valve cover off so I could see when the oil had reached the rockers. I left the fuel valve off as I did not want it to start. I cranked it over with the starter to pre fill the oil system with oil before trying to start it for the first time. As I spun it over I started to get oil through the valve train along with antifreeze. I had purged the oil system with diesel so this antifreeze is not from the old problem of blown head gasket. It confused me how there could be no water in the pan but I am getting oil out the rockers. It looks like I will have to pull the engine out and rebuild the whole thing. I had the pan off and saw no signs of water coming through by the sleeves. I just hope that the machine shop did not miss a crack from the water jacket to the oil galleys. It does not bother me that I have to build the whole engine, new sleeves, pistons, rings, bearings both rod and main, cam bearings. you get the idea go through the whole engine. It will be better than new after. It will also give me the opportunity to check the condition of the clutch and pressure plate . Of course new seals everywhere. From what I found out about the tractor they overheated it several times. it had no water temp gage or oil light so God knows what I will find. All of this will have to wait till spring as old man winter is taking over and I want to park my truck in the garage, I hate scraping my windshield. The best part is I can order parts and have everything ready for when I take at it in the spring. Wish me luck. I will let you guys know. Oh and a shout out to Ultradog. He has gone the extra mile Thanks.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

I felt that a name change was in order. more to the true nature of the beast. The tractor is packed away for the winter. I am making lists of parts needed in the spring when I pull the motot and do a full out of frame rebuild. Trying to do a patch job is not in my nature but I wanted to find out the nature of the tractor. How did it run, oil pressure clutch condition, all sorts of things that you can only tell when the engine is running. I tried to patch it with a top end and see if it was runnable or if it did need to be totally gone through. When I saw water being pumped through the system I just stopped trying to get it to run and decided to wait till spring and do it properly. all for the best.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Hi Guys, Well old man winter has finally decided to let spring poke its head out so I will be pushing the Tractor into the shop and start the tear down. I will give you guys plenty of pics so you can help me through the process. I checked the oil in the tractor and as expected it is over full and I expect to see water in the base again. will let you know.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Well after 4 days of rain wont be moving the tractor for a few more days. It got the ground so soft I dont dare to hitch onto it and pull it to the shop. Will let you guys know when I get it to the shop.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Bogbilly said:


> Well after 4 days of rain wont be moving the tractor for a few more days. It got the ground so soft I dont dare to hitch onto it and pull it to the shop. Will let you guys know when I get it to the shop.


It's been a bit wet here as well! Our early spring hasn't allowed us to get out in the fields yet without tearing everything up.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

It will probably do like last year wet till the end of may then no rain to speak of till mid September. I'm eager to strip the 4000 down so I can pull the sump and then pressurize the cooling circuit to see where the water is coming from. I got a feeling that the machine shop missed a crack in the head. I don't think it is the block but if it is well so be it. it will make me go all the way. will have a pretty new tractor then. Pogobill if I remember correctly you commented on a 4000 that the water was entering the base via the oil passages to the bearings. I can't remember what that gent found wrong. I will try again this weekend to get the thing into the shop. well we will see if the 1 ton will back up to it then.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Hope you have luck and the least expensive fix. As far as the comment, I think that may have been a little too technical for me! I'd credit that to one of our regular contributors that know what they are talking about!!


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

OK guys I was finally able to pull the old ford up to the shop. Now the work begins. I will try to get a lot of pics. of the teardown. If you want a close look at anything on the way let me know. I will be pulling the loader frame and fenders off first, along with the loader hydraulics. Have a good day


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## thepumpguysc (Jan 25, 2015)

There seems to be A LOT of questions about the THERMOSTART SYSTEM..
I know it would benefit quite a few readers of u could do a close up of the flow from the inj. pump, to the holding tank and to the intake.. 
that’s IF u have it..
Some systems run off the injector return connector.. So whichever u have, could u do a close up of it.
Thanks.. TPG


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

That would be no problem. glad to do it. I believe mine is fed from the injector return to a little reservoir just in front of the fuel tank on left side then it goes to tank and to the Thermostart.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Ok guys as per thepumpguysc request here are a few pics of my thermostart system


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

The power wire has been removed already but it goes on the male spade on the thermostart. I will be pulling the loader frame off of the tractor so I can pull the engine. The front bolts came out rather easy. they were 1 1/8th inch socket. now for the rear bolts. They strattle the axle tube and also hold the fenders on. They are 15/16 and are very tight and hard to get loose. I am using a breaker bar and a 4 foot piece of pipe to get them loose. My 1/2 inch air gun wont touch them. The fenders are home made jobs from the end of a tank by the looks.


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

After three broken sockets and a broken breaker bar i have 3 of the 8 bolts out. Got to get 3/4 breaker bar and sockets. I will be starting a new thread to document the teardown and rebuild of my 74 Ford 4000. Thanks.


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## Ed Williams (Jun 13, 2019)

Bogbilly said:


> After three broken sockets and a broken breaker bar i have 3 of the 8 bolts out. Got to get 3/4 breaker bar and sockets. I will be starting a new thread to document the teardown and rebuild of my 74 Ford 4000. Thanks.


Soak the nuts with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF twice a day for a week and you will be surprised with the result. I have had good success with that treatment. Works a lot better than PB Blaster. Heat application to the nut is also a big help, even with a propane torch.

Next option is a new Earthquke air wrench with 1100 ft lbs of torque. Great for twisting off bolt heads unless you reduce air pressure. Snap-On also carries a 4 to 1 torque multiplier if you can afford their pricing, almost the same as a new air wrench. Black heavy wall sockets are required as it will bust the chrome sockets in a hearbeat.


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## Ultradog (Feb 27, 2005)

Hello Bogbilly,
Glad to see you are back to working on that tractor.
I haven't been on here much since they "upgraded" the forum software. Grrr.
If you still have my phone # you can call me if you have any questions.
I did a wee bit of work on mine yesterday.
Painted the white stripe on the hood and put the decal on.
All the best.
Jerry


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## Bogbilly (Aug 1, 2020)

Hi Jerry, yes I have started to tinker with her. I like your shift knobs! your tractor is looking pretty spiffy. mine will be there someday. I have started a new thread as this one is getting a bit long. I plan on pulling the loader frame and loosening the front end so I can pull the pan. I want to pressurize the water jacket to see if I can determine the source of the leak. I almost believe that I was sold the wrong head gasket as the water is getting into the oil circuit and coming out via the rockers. that is if my head or block is not cracked. will further explore on the other string. Have a great day.


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