# PTO issues on 1964 Ford 2000



## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

New to the forum. I have been reading several of the articles to gain a better understanding of my tractor. I won't include a complete list of things we have done to get this machine moving again (sat unused for 4 years before I bought it). It currently runs well, but I am having PTO issues. First, let me describe what I have: Ford 2000 Model number is 21201. It is a 4 cylinder gas, 4 speed with live PTO. I drained, flushed and refilled all three chambers with UTF (2 gallons each). The old stuff was rather nasty - milky with clumps of God knows what. I did a general inspection of the fluid, and found no metal shavings. Without removing anything from the top, I did a cursory exam with a flashlight and the gears looked good. Hydraulics works fine. It shifts into gear with no problem and drives quite well considering her age. Engine is running quite smooth. 
So, after getting done with most everything, we turned to the PTO. When I depress the clutch and push the lever down, it hops out of gear and you hear a grind (without a load). If you push and hold the lever, it does fine. When you put a load on it, it is harder to get it to engage, but can be done by bringing the clutch out real slow, and then bring up the RPM's. Once engaged, and while holding the lever down, it feels like something is kicking back on it. Doing my due diligence, I read everything I could find and followed those recommendations. The rear spine has no give whatsoever (side to side or front to back). It rotates well when out of gear, and when in gear (and tractor off), it locks in and does not turn. Thus I surmise this is not a 4 bolt rear repair issue. I have read something about a detent and spring or maybe a clutch issue, and possible need to split the tractor. When it is turning, the power stops when I press the clutch to the floor. So, I am now at a point where I need some advice. I am not a mechanic by trade, but am very confident with tools and mechanical things. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. I have a few weeks before the deer lease needs to be mowed and I hope to have the old gal up and running! Thanks!!


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Hello Nash10032,

Welcome to the tractor forum.

My GUESS is that you may have a twisted spline on the front end of your PTO shaft. This is easy to check. Drain the rear differential fluid, or put the front end of your tractor facing downhill, and you won't have to drain the rear reservoir. Tie the PTO shift lever in the engaged position. Pull the PTO shaft and have a look at it. 

If you find nothing wrong with the PTO shaft, then pull the PTO shift lever and inspect the sliding sleeve.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Hey Nash,

See attached parts diagrams. Do you have any end play (in/out) on your PTO shaft? Could be a worn bearing or a snap ring broken or out of position.

Incidentally, you can get a complete replacement aftermarket PTO shaft at a reasonable price.


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

HarveyW, I will pull the shaft tonight and do all as you suggest then post my findings. BigT, thanks for those diagrams. To answer your question, there is no play in the shaft.


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

Ok, so I just spent the last few hours trying out everything. I removed the PTO shaft and inspected it closely. It looks brand new with no signs of wear. Splines on both end are perfect with no wear. Bearings on end look new. Former owner told me he had some work done on it, and it looks like it was done with quality. I inspected, as best I could, the shift assembly. When you push the rod forward, it locks in tight. It took solid pressure to disengage. Made sure the reservoir was clean of any contaminants, and put everything back together. Hate to say but two hours worth of take-your-time careful work and no change in result. Any chance the clutch is staying partially engaged and letting the shifter slid out? If so, what next. Frustrating...


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## HarveyW (Sep 15, 2014)

Hey Nash,

I do not see how the clutch could cause this problem. Even if it is not releasing fully. Incidentally, you can adjust the clutch free play by turning the clevis in the clutch pedal linkage. Clutch pedal free play should be 1" to 1-1/2". 

You have confirmed that the PTO shaft and shift mechanism appear to be in good condition. You also say that it feels like something is kicking back on the PTO lever while you are holding it in the engaged position. It may be bad shaft bearings or a broken snap ring in the transmission?

I guess that I would use a bungee cord on the PTO shift lever to hold it in position. If the problem is in the transmission, you are looking at some big bucks (unless you can do the work yourself).


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

Can anyone point me to a diagram of the transmission where the PTO power originates? If the shaft is not the issue, I need to look further up the line. Thanks!


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## RC Wells (Dec 26, 2008)

I believe this is the diagram you want: http://www.messicks.com/nh/55139?sectionId=20106&diagramId=55139_397208

This is the PTO shift lever, housing, and dog clutch assembly. I believe that most New Holland dealers still have complete parts diagrams for this model tractor, and they can get you slides from the main clutch, the transfer shaft, all the way back to the final PTO shaft.

But, what I suspect is the dog clutch is worn and not fully engaging and that can be the linkage, the engagement fork, or the dog clutch itself has the engagement splines knocked off.


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

Ok guys, hope this is the final report. First, I stand corrected on this being a live PTO. Apparently it is a transmission driven with single clutch. Learning as I go. So I pulled the shift cover and drained that reservoir to inspect the gears. Honestly, that is a bit over my head. All I can say is what I saw was uniform in shape for each individual gear. I put that back together and made a slight adjustment to the clutch. Afterwards, I fired it up and engaged the PTO. Same result with the lever kicking against my hand and then slipping out when not under pressure. So I re-engaged and pushed down with my foot. After a few seconds it seemed to go in a little further and everything became smooth. When I disengaged and reengaged would have to repeat with my foot but only for a few seconds. Ran it on higher RPM's for a good couple of minutes without problem. If there was a burr, is it possible that we cleaned it up? Anyway, thanks for all of the advice!!


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

Tried to go mow yesterday, thinking we had everything fixed. Nope. Today, I pulled the hydro lift system to get a better view of the PTO engagement system. I pulled the shifter fork and the coupling. I think I found the problem.


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

Second photo


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## sixbales (May 18, 2011)

Excellent presentation! How do the splines look on the shaft from the transmission? 

PS - I added a Messick's parts diagram to give you an idea on replacement costs. You can also find used parts...look in the "dismantled machine" of the tractorhouse.com website.


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

Will have to get a mirror to examine the shaft but I felt with my fingers and seemed in tact. The coupler would slide on and engage, but the damaged fork appears to have allowed movement. Once I get eyes on the shaft, I will know if it needs work. Hoping not, as the coupler is the weaker link.


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

Here is a pic of the end of shaft. Not best view as I reached my phone down for the shot. Looks well.


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## Nash10032 (Aug 1, 2016)

Good news fellas! Got my coupler and fork in today. Put everything back together, hooked up the bush hog, engaged the gear, and we are going. I then put the tractor in gear, and fully functional!! I want to give everyone who gave me advice my whole hearted thanks!!


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