# Remove oil pan Ford 550 backhoe?



## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

Hi..
I have now tried to remove the oil pan, but as many other people I have read about doing it, they also figured out, that it wasn't that simple as to just remove the 4 large bolt, and then remove the visible bolts holding the pan up...
Take a look on the pictures I have uploaded. I have been able to remove the all of the bolts, except the four in the front, cause they are hidden under the backhoe frame, which they in the manual call the front support. It is a big block of iron protecting the radiator if you drop things I guess. 

So!...
The manual says to support the front of the transmission, so I have done that.
Then it says to disconnect the radiator shell support which I believe then are the large supports coming from the back wheels connected with two large bolts on each side.
BUT... if you remove those two bolts, will they not just drop down and the whole tractor tilt?
and after that, you should remove the two bolts on each side holding the engine to the front support block. I am wondering how you then are supposed two ease the front support and radiator assembly forward to get acces to the bolts when the whole assembly are only balancing on the two front wheels???

Any suggestions on how to do this job? Maybe how to make som stands for the shell supports?
Any good ideas are welcome!
Thanks!

(to drop the pan, is to change a con rod bearing, cause the engine is knocking.)




























- Kristian


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Are you sure about the model? The hood and radiator shell do not look like a 550. More like 4500, if so, you have a cast iron oil pan that has (besides the bolts into the engine) two bolts into the bell housing and two bolts into the front support. I do not know about removing those.
Please, post a picture of the pan, from the underside.

Your manual describes the procedure for a "naked tractor", without loader and backhoe.



Kristian Andersen said:


> ...
> The manual says to support the front of the transmission, so I have done that.
> Then it says to disconnect the radiator shell support which I believe then are the large supports coming from the back wheels connected with two large bolts on each side.
> BUT... if you remove those two bolts, will they not just drop down and the whole tractor tilt?
> ...


You are referring to the loader frame. The tractor will stay intact after removing this. The tractor "body" consists of the rear axle housing - the transmission housing - the engine block - the front support.

The radiator shell support is a bracket/support that you will find on top of the radiator shell, after you have removed the hood. The support is fastened to the engine.


> ...
> and after that, you should remove the two bolts on each side holding the engine to the front support block. I am wondering how you then are supposed two ease the front support and radiator assembly forward to get acces to the bolts when the whole assembly are only balancing on the two front wheels???
> ...


No, it clearly says:
"...
slacken the engine to front support bolts leaving the nuts flush or partly disengaged from the end of the bolts.
..."
This means that the bolts should stay were they are, you just loosen the nuts. 

then:
"...
Ease the front support and radiator assembly forward
..."
The idea is that you should be able to slide the front support on the bolts, away from the engine, to make room to unscrew the pan bolts. If you have a jack under the transmission, you will be able the adjust the height of the transmission until the support bolts have very little load and it is easy to slide the front support.
If you think the front support bolts look a bit short for this exercise, cut an all thread rod (3/4" UNC or M20) to four suitable rods. Remove one bolt at a time and replace with a rod and two nuts.


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

Hi Hacke!
Thank you SO much for the answer! It was very helpfull, and also the fact that it possibly is 4500. My dad have always told me it was a 550... 

Okay...
The two bolts into the bell housing have I removed, just some easy acces nuts and bolts.
The two into the front support have I also removed, also easily with some rust breaker spray.
All of the small bolts going up into the engine block have I also removed, but not the 4 front ones covered by the front support... See the picture with four red lines in front..

I will try look for the radiator shell support. Do you have any idea where it is mounted on the engine? The head or further down the block? When I think about it now, I can't really see where it are supposed to be, but I will look next time!

So to be clear, I have to find the shell support bracket mounted on the top of the shell into the engine and remove it.
(all the bolts and nuts accessible have been removed from the oil pan)
Then remove the two 28mm (large, both sides) bolts holding the loader frame to the front support.
And the tractor will not tip by that when only standing on the rear wheels and the little jack under the transmission???????
Then in some way get acces to the two bolts/nuts on each side on the engine going into the front support, and loosen the nuts. (maybe thread some longer rods)

And by that the whole front end will just be able to roll forward!?

Again, thanks a lot for the answer and the pdf! 
- Kristian


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

You need to find out what model it is in order to get the proper parts (and manual) for it.

I do not know where the radiator shell support is mounted on your tractor. On 4000 it is mounted on the face of the cylinder head. It is the bracket/shelf for the battery tray that has two horns going out forward/sideways. You do not need to disconnect the support from the engine, only the bolts and nuts that holds the radiator shell to the "horns".

The tractor is complete even after you have removed the loader frame bolts. You have a backhoe at the end, so the tractor will not tip forward. I have no experience of removing the bolts in question. I believe you need to be careful not to have any load on the bucket, and watch out if the frame moves some when the bolts are taken out.

As I said, I do not know about that pan style, but I get it that you only have one bolt on each side left? The other two that holds the front support was the same as the two that hold the pan? If so, you should put the two bolts back with their nuts loose, or get threaded rods or longer bolts in their place. If you do not, you have no security when you loosen the nuts on the two remaining bolts.

You will probably need a pry bar to get the front support started, and adjust the height under the transmission to get a smooth ride. If you have the hoses left it will be springy, so keep a couple of wooden wedges handy to lock it open.

Just take it easy and think twice before every move.

And remember, the fasteners on this machine are Imperial inch style. No metric threads, originally at least. It is possible to mix them, which is not good. For instance, you can thread an M20x2.5 nut on a 3/4"-10 UNC bolt. It is a bit sloppy, but they have about the same pitch. It can lead to disaster. Check your fasteners, things may have been repaired in the past and someone took the usual metric fasteners and things got messed up. I believe you are in Denmark, I am in Sweden and I think the situation is the same in both countries. Same goes for sockets and wrenches, get at least a socket set. A close fit is not good enough, and there is no socket for rounded bolts.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Wait a second!
Has your tractor a front mounted hydraulic pump?
If so, there are some more things to consider. Check if the shaft from the engine to the pump need to be disconnected. Check that there are no hydraulic lines that does not allow the front to be pushed forward.


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

If it is a 4500 you have, to get an idea of the tractor/frame combination:

The bare tractor URL:
https://cdn.globalauctionplatform.c...f26a-b738-47ee-f818-427e19b5006b/original.jpg

Tractor with the frame (backhoe removed) URL:
http://www.crosscreektractor.com/customer/crcrtr/images/salvage/ford4500.jpg


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

I am nearly sure it's a 4500 by the pictures, but the engine in the 550 manual is exact the same. It has the "Mexican hat" shape down I the top of the cylinders of the diesel. 4500 manual, there are pictures of an whole other type of piston..
On the sites where I tried to google an oil-pan to a 4500, there are bolts all around and not like it is on this one. But when I do the same for a 550 it shows the same...
I will try to look after the serial number. I have read something about it might be on the right side on the bell housing maybe?

A question..
Do you got a good idea on how to slacken off the bolts/nuts holding the engine into the front support? (see picture)
You can't get anything down there. There are no space for anything...
Any good idea?  

!! Anyone having the Ford 4500 manual on how to remove the oil pan on that specific model? 

- Kristian


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

This will help to find the numbers:
http://www.springfieldbiz.com/oaktree/rhcodes_serial.html

If you remove the grille, is it possible to reach the bolts/nuts from the inside of the front support?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

The diesel engines in 4500 and 550 are very much the same. It is the 4.4" x 4.4" "square" engine that came with the 4000 model. The cavity in the piston is there to enhance the injector fuel spray. It is there in all the diesel pistons in these array of engines. Is it possible that you saw a piston for a gas (petrol) engine?

By the way, you can search the New Holland Online Parts Catalogue, just type the model number:
https://partstore.agriculture.newho...4bce52e2ca49c&sl=EN&currency=#epc::model_find


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

"...
If you remove the grille, is it possible to reach the bolts/nuts from the inside of the front support?
..."

I don't think so, because it is only bolts threaded from the underneath into the engine block...


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Kristian Andersen said:


> "...
> If you remove the grille, is it possible to reach the bolts/nuts from the inside of the front support?
> ..."
> 
> I don't think so, because it is only bolts threaded from the underneath into the engine block...


I meant the bolts you asked about.


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

Ahhhh..

No.. The air cleaner/filter and radiator assembly are in the way (picture)

What is that thing coming from the pump forged into the top of the metal block? (what is it called? where Ford is written) The cooling of the oil or so?? but why up there where there are no ventilation?









I have been looking for the hydraulic pump. Is there an easy way to remove the shaft from the engine to the pump? Or does the pump have to be removed fully..?
















I found a picture of the pump on the New Holland parts site for a 4500. It looks like the shaft is just slided/pushed on?


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

Another question which have nothing to do with the other topic, but why are there a hydraulic line going into the loader frame??


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

There are others that know these machines better than me, but as far as I know the upper part where the FORD letters are is a reservoir for the hydraulic oil. The "cube" under it contains a suction filter. The main filter is on top of the front reservoir. The front reservoir is connected to the frame because the frame is a reservoir as well.
The reservoir in the front and the pump get cooled by the air that the engine cooling fan sucks through the radiator shell, and further through the radiator, and you need a high point to evacuate air from the system.

I think the easiest way to disconnnect the pump shaft is to remove the four bolts that holds the shaft hub to the crank pulley. The hub looks like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/D140524-13...-for-Ford-Tractor-Case-480D-580D/173915178989

First: Get the numbers.


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

I have been looking around four to five times today on both sides and all I could find was a number on a plate on the right side of the engine block, which I read something about just was a parts number.
On the left side of the tractor on the bell housing, there were two lines with numbers, but I don't think they are the serial number of the tractor, and they are really hard to see as well, but here are a picture.


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## 8990TRAC (Jun 16, 2013)

The plate with the serial number and everything on it on my 550 is stuck to the instrument binnacle, just as you come in through the door:


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## 8990TRAC (Jun 16, 2013)

Kristian Andersen said:


> Another question which have nothing to do with the other topic, but why are there a hydraulic line going into the loader frame??


Hmm - weird.
Mine has pipes built into the arm:







...but nothing going into the frame of the digger itself.

All of the hydraulic lines on mine have screw-unions - I've got air-pipes on mine that look like that, though - sure you sure it's carrying hydraulic fluid?

This is the pipe coming down from the air-filter to the inlet manifold - the flexible L-joint's missing, as it'd dissolved and I was replacing it when I took this:


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

8990TRAC said:


> The plate with the serial number and everything on it on my 550 is stuck to the instrument binnacle, just as you come in through the door:


Still can't find the number. Not on on right side of the bell housing neither inside the cabin.
Any other ideas where it could be?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Here are some pictures of 550:
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffnt&q=ford+550+backhoe&iax=images&ia=images
I think we can agree on that Kristian's tractor is not a 550?

The engine block is made in 1974, or later.
No sticker under the hood?
Clean the marked area and remove paint and rust. Do not scratch the surface, use fine sand paper. You need to get down to bare metal.
Do the same were you found the numbers.


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

Still can’t find any number. 
I have used the last week on trying to loosen the four bolts holding the loader frame onto the front support. They are now lose! And ready for them to be removed when I have figured out to remove the driveshaft to the hydraulic pump. It can’t just slide right of when the you move the front forward?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Why is not removing the pulley hub, as I suggested, an option?


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

The toothed "rod" that the drive shaft is connected to, does it come off when you remove the pulley hub? Do I need to drain the reservoir with the hydraulic oil on top? so it doesn't run out of the pump??


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

I am not sure about how your hub on the pulley looks. The one I linked a picture of has splines (teeth) inside, but you may have a shaft arrangement like this:
https://www.johnconaty.com/FORD-HYDRAULIC-PUMP-DRIVE-SHAFT-C5NNA932C-p/3466.htm
If so, the splines are on the pump side and the hub has a yoke. It does not matter, just remove the four bolts on the pulley and the shaft is loose. No oil is leaking from that.

If you try to pull the front with the shaft in place, the splined part could slide out of it's hole and you will have a hard time getting it back at reassembly.

Better detach the shaft from the pulley before the pull, and put it back when the front is back in place again.


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

Okay. It is the shaft like you linked a picture of the post before, copied onto this picture down under. 
There might be some, but not a lot, space to unscrew one bolt at a time, and then maybe turn the crankshaft so the next bolt are where the first was (the red circle)
Any good idea on how to easily turn the crank?


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## Hacke (Feb 22, 2011)

Is it not possible to reach the bolts with a socket and extension/flexible joints from the front?

It is hard to say when you do not have the things before you, but I think either of these would work:
Turn the engine by pulling the belt (on the other hand, with the belt removed there will be more space for a tool to loosen the bolts)
Turn the shaft at the pump with a suitable tool, pipe wrench, screwdriver in the yoke, or locking pliers.
Use a prybar between a bolt head and the shaft and turn.
Use the key switch and engage the starter motor shortly.


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## Kristian Andersen (May 23, 2020)

Thank you for the ideas. I will try work something out when the weather gets better here. I’ll come with an update later.


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## martinnorgaard (Nov 16, 2021)

Hi Kristian
Did you succeed in removing the oil pan?


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