# Case IH 4210 Clutch



## Tall Okie (Jul 31, 2018)

My Case IH 4210 MFWD with Cab and the 16x8 transmission (partial power-shift) won't shift into low range. I can shift into high range and reverse with no issues. Rabbit/turtle power-shift working fine too.

When I try to shift into low range it'll just grind gears.

Need new clutch? Or is there anything to check first or are there any adjustments that can be made? Thanks in advance.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Welcome to the forum Tall Okie. Glad you stopped by. I can't help you, but I'm sure someone will stop in to offer some suggestions. 
Just wondering if this problem has been getting worse over time, or happened all of a sudden? Does there seem to be more free play in the clutch pedal than you normally are used to? Could need adjustment. I believe that Case IH redisigned the clutch so that the new style clutch release bearing was supposed to contact the release fingers all the time. Apparently may not have been a good design. Maybe a member or a dealer can give you a bit of information that is more accurate, as well as a fix.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

If the problem was clutch related it should affect more than just low range. Does the grind take place when shifting INTO low range or when you try to TAKE OFF off in low range?


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## Tall Okie (Jul 31, 2018)

pogobill said:


> Welcome to the forum Tall Okie. Glad you stopped by. I can't help you, but I'm sure someone will stop in to offer some suggestions.
> Just wondering if this problem has been getting worse over time, or happened all of a sudden? Does there seem to be more free play in the clutch pedal than you normally are used to? Could need adjustment. I believe that Case IH redisigned the clutch so that the new style clutch release bearing was supposed to contact the release fingers all the time. Apparently may not have been a good design. Maybe a member or a dealer can give you a bit of information that is more accurate, as well as a fix.


Since getting this tractor, I haven't used it much as I have had to do some other repairs. For the few times I have used it, I was able to get by with just using high range. 

When I first got it, it would shift into low but it had to be forced to get it in. Now it just grinds and won't go into low at all.


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## Tall Okie (Jul 31, 2018)

Fedup said:


> If the problem was clutch related it should affect more than just low range. Does the grind take place when shifting INTO low range or when you try to TAKE OFF off in low range?


Since the issue is just with low range, I'm hoping clutch is ok too. The grinding is when I try to shift into low range. I can no longer get it into low.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

That doesn't answer the question. If the shafts and gears stop turning when you push in the clutch, then nothing can grind. On the other hand if the low range synchronizer has a problem then it will be hard to shift into low range, probably won't feel like it's properly engaged, but it won't grind. The grinding will occur when you let the clutch out and things begin to turn. Which is it?


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## Tall Okie (Jul 31, 2018)

Fedup said:


> That doesn't answer the question. If the shafts and gears stop turning when you push in the clutch, then nothing can grind. On the other hand if the low range synchronizer has a problem then it will be hard to shift into low range, probably won't feel like it's properly engaged, but it won't grind. The grinding will occur when you let the clutch out and things begin to turn. Which is it?


When trying to shift into low range, it doesn't feel like it goes in. If I try to push and hold it in and start to release the clutch, the gears will grind.


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but I'm afraid you would have been better off if the clutch were the problem. I guess it's possible there may be a linkage related issue but if it slips in and out of reverse without problems, then it's most likely the synchronizer at fault. Bad news is it's in the rear frame of the tractor, on the pinion shaft (which must come out to access it). Major disassembly involved. Looks like the part itself is no longer serviced by CNH so the hunt is on. A quick search brought up one used unit on Ebay for $500 plus. Other sources for used as well.

Could be the previous owner was aware of the problem(and the solution) and opted out of both. In any case, you have a decision to make.


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## Tall Okie (Jul 31, 2018)

Fedup said:


> I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but I'm afraid you would have been better off if the clutch were the problem. I guess it's possible there may be a linkage related issue but if it slips in and out of reverse without problems, then it's most likely the synchronizer at fault. Bad news is it's in the rear frame of the tractor, on the pinion shaft (which must come out to access it). Major disassembly involved. Looks like the part itself is no longer serviced by CNH so the hunt is on. A quick search brought up one used unit on Ebay for $500 plus. Other sources for used as well.
> 
> Could be the previous owner was aware of the problem(and the solution) and opted out of both. In any case, you have a decision to make.


Sounds like a great winter project... Thanks for the info! I'll double check linkages soon just to make sure. Occasionally I have to work at it to get it into reverse too.

I bought the tractor from a widow of a good friend of mine. I often worked on his equipment, and to my knowledge this wasn't an issue. When I first got the tractor I was able to get it into low range (load and unload from trailer). It had some hydraulic leaks and a bad water pump. After I fixed those issues and serviced all fluids and filters I went to actually use the tractor and couldn't get it into low once I moved a few round bales with the front loader. 

Would continuing to use the tractor cause more damage if the synchronizer is shot?


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## Fedup (Feb 25, 2014)

Well, that's debatable Damage to the low range side of the synchro -- not likely. It's already toast. If you plan to be in and out of reverse a lot with your intended use, then that portion will probably not last very long since there are already things worn, partially missing and possibly slightly out place within the synchronizer. Another down side is that all you have is high range, so any work you do requiring some "grunt" means added strain on the clutch starting out in the higher gear. 

If you plan to dig into it on your own (meaning without help) then by all means you should pick up at least an I&T manual on the tractor, or even a reprint factory manual which would be more money but more helpful as well.


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