# New to me.



## 40Windsor

So, I picked up this 19** Ford 640 yesterday. It does have some issues and needs some work. But, once I get it to the point of being comfortable that it will work all day, I will save $1000 on the first day of use vs hiring someone to drive out and do some work on my land. So, it is worth it to me. 
Let me make one note before going on. I am in absolutely no way a purist. I want stuff to work well, be reliable, and easy to use. Probably give it a desert camo paint job to help it not be seen from the road if I leave it parked on my property to go to town (Da** junkies steal anything they see).
The rear main seal is puking, so that needs replaced (ordering one tomorrow). Anyone have pointers on getting the top half out? I know I will drop the rear cap and loosen the others to give it some slack. 
Next is fluids. ALL oils are getting changed. Engine oil will be done after rms replacement, but trans & diff need to be done due to water contamination (dipstick was coated in milk). 
Air cleaner has me considering building a housing for a replaceable filter element. The cup was a milkshake when I got there. Kept it off when I was using it to get everything loaded up. 
I will probably do a drain and fill on the hydraulic system, and do a full flush and fill after I replace the hoses. 
I will replace the PTO output seal, but plan to cap it as I wont be using it. 
I do need to get new front tires that are a little more narrow as they do rub, but that isnt a priority. 

The tractor came with a shop manual. Can anyone give recommendations on oil type/brand preference/visc/capacity? If I miss anything or list something I dont have, please feel free to call me an idjit. It wont hurt my feelings. 

From the book
Engine- 5qt of SAE20
Trans- 6qt of SAE80
Diff- 8qt of SAE80
Hydraulic- 8qt of ?M2C41?
Steering housing- ?qt of SAE80/90
?Pedestal?- ?qt of SAE80

For wheel bearings, do yall think Lucas Red n tacky will be good?


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## 40Windsor

Dropped the brush hog, box scraper, and cultivator off in storage. Dug out about 5 lbs of greasy dirt from under the lift cylinders. Also rinsed off a lot of the oil/grease/dirt. Stayed away from the breathers and electical stuff. 
Dropped the tractor off at home so I can start working on it. Will probably go into town this afternoon to look at oils. 
Put the implements I wont be using FSOT on CL, but have no clue their value.


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## 40Windsor

Fluids changed.








Got some O-rings for the fill plugs. I assume that is where a lot of the water intrusion happened as the gaskets were cracked and split.
Left lift cylinder started leaking as soon as I cleaned the crud off. I will rebuild all 3 this winter.
Was looking at where two lines were rubbing. As soon as I touched the one I wanted to move, the hose to the right lift cylinder started leaking. Thankfully, TSC had one that worked in stock.








Loaded the tractor and implements back on the trailer. The implements (other than FEL) are getting sold tomorrow and it is just easier to use my tractor to load/unload by myself.


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## thepumpguysc

Sounds like a win-win..
U might wanna consider looking for a fuel filter on that machine.. & if u don't find 1.. anything is better than nothing at all.. cut a rubber hose & install a strainer type.
Good luck, Have fun & be safe..


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## 40Windsor

Thank you for reminding me. Ive been racking my mind trying to figure out what I forgot to get. 
I will put a filter with a ball valve. That way I dont have to reach for the OE shutoff valve.


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## 40Windsor

Got the mower, box scraper, and cultivator traded yesterday. Ended up with a 6' adjustable grader blade and $$$$. The adjustable grader blade is what I need to work on my driveway, so I am very happy. 
Ordered a rear main seal set, oil pan gasket, carb gasket set, inline filter, PTO seal, gasket and cap. Going onto town tomorrow to get the rest of the hoses for the FEL to change out this winter. I need to figure out what seal set I need for the FEL cylinders and if I need to replace one cylinder that has a dent in the tube towards the bottom.


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## 40Windsor

Gotta get a new cylinder. Figure I will just replace both at the same time. 
Anyone have a recommendation? 3x30 (single or double acting), welded cross tube.


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## 40Windsor

Diff gears? Yeah, changed the oil, then put about 100 yards of driving on it. Checked inside and it had clean oil visible on the surface. 
Looking at ordering a pair of Magister 3x30 cylinders.


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## 40Windsor

Ended up getting the Magister 2.5x30 welded cross tube cylinders. 3x30 was just barely too big on the OD and would have ended up rubbing. 
They are the double acting, so I will adjust plans a little. For now, I will put air mufflers on the rod end port. I will plumb the rod end whenI get a new control set. 
New cyl lengths are 38"/68", while old are 37.5"/67.5".


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## 40Windsor

General update.
Pulled the radiator to flush it and the engine. Not too bad. Some mud and a couple pieces of brazing rod in the radiator. Will probably do a cleaning flush on the engine. Radiator is an original with a couple bent fins. Took it to my local radiator shop to get tested.
Pulled the gas tank off. It was suprisingly clean with just a few rust spots inside. There was some debris on the pickup screen and some pieces of clear glass (no clue) inside it. I took the tank to the radiator shop also, to get cleaned/coated and vent/drain fitting welded on the top to run a filtered vent line and allow easier draining when/if I need to pull it again.
I found that the FEL blocked access to the pivot pin that the front end rides on and the yoke/coupler thst connects the crank shaft to the aux hydraulic pump was jammed into the pin. I cut a V out if the FEL bracket to allow the pin to be pulled and I cut the pin down 7/16" to allow room to get a belt on and stop the stress if the engine trying to spinweld the coupler to the pin.
I am currently waiting for a new pump driveshaft, yoke, and flex coupler to get here. Then I will check clearance on the yoke & pin with the new parts before putting it all together. I have another 1/4" I can cut off the pin if needed.


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## 40Windsor

I am debating on how to flush out the hydraulic "tank" of the FEL since it is the stucture of the FEL itself. I know I want to get it as clean as possible before I rebuild the system with all new components.


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## 40Windsor

I have the new rear main seal and pan gasket ready to get put in. When I pull the pan, I will silver solder a small drain plug in. That way, I can drain the oil without making as much of a mess if I ever need to do a field repair and filter/reuse the oil. Ofcourse, I will clean the pan first. 
I opted to get a carb mounted sediment bowl and add an inlin shutoff valve just before the line goes in. I will reroute the hardline towards the back so it isnt riding on the muffler anymore.


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## 40Windsor

The hub on the hydraulic pump was force matched to the coupler, so I had to order another one. It should be here this week. But, with the pin cut down and new hub on the crank, the belt easily fits through with the driveshaft pulled. 
After having two new 2 wire ignition switches be DOA, I went and got a basic 4 wire switch. I wired in an alt warning light and a switch to run any lights I put on it. 
So, the ignition switch is no longer on a bracket screwed to the sheet metal.


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## 40Windsor

I cant seem to find proper fitting O-rings for the fuel cut off valve. Ive tried a few. They either leak (air leak test) or tear the O-ring when put together. 
I am thinking that I might make a threaded flange that will have an elbow for the fuel line and mount a ball valve down on the sediment bowl.


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## Hightech1953

40Windsor said:


> I cant seem to find proper fitting O-rings for the fuel cut off valve. Ive tried a few. They either leak (air leak test) or tear the O-ring when put together.
> I am thinking that I might make a threaded flange that will have an elbow for the fuel line and mount a ball valve down on the sediment bowl.


Try a copper crush gasket .


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## 40Windsor

Thanks for the tip. I assume that is for the flange to tank seal.
This is the valve I have. Valve all the way in to close. All the way out to open with reserve off. Anywhere from all the way out to all the way in, it draws from both the stand pipe and the reserve hole. The small O-ring on the stem is the one I am having issues with. Either ID is too small to get on, too big to be snug, the OD is too large and the rubber shaves/chunks as it goes in or is too small to prevent leaks.


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## 40Windsor

Got tired of fighting it. Made a flange, not perfect looking but flat. Tomorrow, I will go find a fitting then braze them together.


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## 40Windsor

New pump hub arrived today. Perfect fit.


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## thepumpguysc

NICE !!! & thanks for the pictures..


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## 40Windsor

Tapped the hole for the correct threads, got it clocked with a tight fit, brazed and started cleaning. Will sandblast non-gasket contact surfaces and paint. There is enough protrusion that I will be able to solder the filter screen off the other outlet onto it.


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## 40Windsor

What a day. Ended with me ticked off and having trouble walking (legs dont always do what I tell them to anymore).
Did some wiring on the tractor. Decided to go ahead and put a fuse panel on it and a relay for lighting. Got most of it done, just need to figure out how I want to run wiring to the back (still thinking I might build ROPS and a cargo basket in the back, possibly just a cage welded to the FEL structure so I can put a sun shade on it.
Anyways....
Before it hits freezing temps, I went ahead and refilled the radiator with new antifreeze (had the rad pressure tested for leaks and none were found). Decided to turn the WP by hand to help get air out since I flushed and drained the block while the rad was out.
Since I had to loosen the alt, I decided to go ahead and remove the bolts to sandblast them. Well, while removing the adjuster (top) bolt, the dang alternator broke. Didnt feel tighter than any other alternator bolt I have removed from any other vehicle. But, had enough energy to throw a couple chunks about 5 feet. So, time to find an inexpensive replacement.
I had hopes of getting it running tomorrow. Probably not going to happen.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> Since I had to loosen the alt, I decided to go ahead and remove the bolts to sandblast them. Well, while removing the adjuster (top) bolt, the dang alternator broke. Didnt feel tighter than any other alternator bolt I have removed from any other vehicle. But, had enough energy to throw a couple chunks about 5 feet. So, time to find an inexpensive replacement.
> I had hopes of getting it running tomorrow. Probably not going to happen.


Was the Ford 640 converted to 12VDC system? If so, did the alternator have a brand and model number? That is a big factor to get a new or rebuilt one on the tractor.


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## 40Windsor

Yeah. It has the 12v neg ground conversion done already. It has a Delco Remy, assuming the 10si, 37a.


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## 40Windsor

Picked up a reman alt at Advanced. Had a 25% online coupon with in store pickup. Just need to reclock it.


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## 40Windsor

Well. Alt #1 is dead. Burnt spot on slip ring and one of the brushed was broken in half when I opened the case. Picking up the replacement tomorrow afternoon. 
Got the fuel line finished. Modified the heat shield to clear and plan to reroute the exhaust out the side and up instead of forward and up.


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## 40Windsor

Alt #2 mounted and hooked up. Got some gasket maker, went to mount the flange to the gas tank for the last time before mounting the tank and one of the bolts broke off. Thought it was a 12-24, but the new bolts didnt fit. So, I rethreaded it to fit 12-24. Dont know what size they were, but the tap definately took some of the metal out to get it to size.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> So, I rethreaded it to fit 12-24. Dont know what size thry were, but the tap definately took some of the metal out to get it to size.


 drastic event calls for drastic measures.


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## 40Windsor

bmaverick said:


> drastic event calls for drastic measures.


Yep. Took the bolt that didnt break to ACE, and nothing matched. Dont like the idea of having to hunt for oddball size bolts if I am in the middle of no where.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> Yep. Took the bolt that didnt break to ACE, and nothing matched. Dont like the idea of having to hunt for oddball size bolts if I am in the middle of no where.


Whoa! ACE is the place that has EVERYTHING that is hard to find at the big box stores, and THEY didn't have it either. WOW


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## 40Windsor

bmaverick said:


> Whoa! ACE is the place that has EVERYTHING that is hard to find at the big box stores, and THEY didn't have it either. WOW


Ace doesnt have 12-24 either.....
3 hardware stores, local auto parts store, NAPA all are no go. Thankfully, a hardware store 20 miles away says they have them in cap screw/phillips/flat, but no hex. So, cap screws will be the route.
New bolts I already have fit correctly, but are cheap bolts that came with some lights. Going to buy a few extra good ones and toss them in the tool/parts box that I am going to build for the tractor.


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## 40Windsor

Cap screw shoulders were too narrow. Went with phillips. 12-24x3/4 is a perfect fit now. 








When the tank was getting coated, I had him put a bung & plug at the top. That way, if I need to drain the tank again, I can do it more easily.


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## thepumpguysc

Yeah, that's the thing w/ Advance Auto Parts electrical parts.. they ARE "inexpensive" & the warranty is GREAT.. its just a matter of HOW MANY TIMES u want to go back to the store.??
I HAVE NEVER bought an electrical part from there, that I didn't have to go get another one.!!! even batteries.!!
It doesn't take a fella to many times of replacing the same part 2 & 3 times to figure out that, u pay for what u get {from them} I'm glad the 2nd one worked out.. BUT I'd sure keep an eye on that V gauge..
For ME, the low cost doesn't equal the time & expense lost..


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## 40Windsor

thepumpguysc said:


> Yeah, that's the thing w/ Advance Auto Parts electrical parts.. they ARE "inexpensive" & the warranty is GREAT.. its just a matter of HOW MANY TIMES u want to go back to the store.??
> I HAVE NEVER bought an electrical part from there, that I didn't have to go get another one.!!! even batteries.!!
> It doesn't take a fella to many times of replacing the same part 2 & 3 times to figure out that, u pay for what u get {from them} I'm glad the 2nd one worked out.. BUT I'd sure keep an eye on that V gauge..
> For ME, the low cost doesn't equal the time & expense lost..


I would normally agree. However, i just had to replace the starter in my Tundra. That one was not cheap. Plus, it made me realize why the dealer wants $1600 to change one.


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## thepumpguysc

I SURE HOPE u didn't get it there.!! or you'll be doing it AGAIN. Lol
I know whatcha mean about those starters..
There was this FINE little gal I was try'n to get into her pants & she asked me to change the starter on her Honda..
I pulled the schematics & had to decline..even tho I KNEW it was gonna be a "sure thing" if I did it..
The 1st line was.. PULL THE LEFT FENDER.. THEN THE RADIATOR.. THEN THE LEFT SPINDLE..
I never made it to the 2nd line of the directions..Lol..


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## pogobill

I wouldn't have bothered with her pants, unless they were large enough. I would have just pulled my coveralls on. Much easier and a better fit for crouching around the Honda.


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## 40Windsor

No, Tundra got OEM. Book calls to remove exhaust manifold, EGR components, and a bunch of other stuff. 
I did it by removing the cat pipe and 3 heat shields (a couple bolts were 1 flat at a time).


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## 40Windsor

Took the fill plug out of the steering pedestal and replaced it with a grease zerk. Put 2 tubes of grease in it. It is currently leaking out some nasty oil from the left shaft. Ill let it drain a while then add more grease to displace more oil, maybe I will pull the arm and shaft off. 
Also replaced the cross threaded zerks on the FEL shaft (after running a tap down). After I figure out how much $ I have left when I pay my property tax, I will get what I can to start rebuilding the hydraulic system on the FEL to go from single to double acting. Though, flushing the tank may be a PITA on the Wagner WF3.


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## 40Windsor

Its ALIVE. Got the tank mounted and hooked up. Leaving the hood & fenders off while I keep tinkering. Tomorrow, FEL tank is getting drained. 
Alternator light works (light in when KOEO, off when running). No sure the amp gauge works, pegged -60. I will switch the wires from one side to the other tomorrow to see it it goes +.


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## 40Windsor

Drained the frame/tank. Right side had some not so healthy oil (as expected). Left side had some water. Wasnt sure what to expect from the left side (had to drill a hole), but didnt know how the structure was made and wanted to make sure it wasnt also holding hydraulic fluid/oil for the FEL. I will tap it and put in a plug after I flush out as much of the grime and rusty water as I can. 
I pulled the filter assembly off. I found that the threard pipe coming off the frame, which the filter mounts to, was very messed up. Looks like someone used vice grips to install it before welding then let their 5 year old thread it. I ended up cutting 1/3 inch off the end to get rid of the crushed/weirdly tapered section. The rest of the threads were damaged but usable. 
I removed the retract hose and brass fitting on the bucket. Installed the correct 90* steel fitting with a swivel end and new hose. Tomorrow, I will be replacing the extend hose on the bucket along with a new fitting 1/2 male to 3/8 female since it has 2 fittings between the cylinder and hose. I will also be picking up all new pressure hoses minus 1 since I need 5 but there are only 4 available within a 75 mile radius. So the last one will get replaced in 2 weeks when they get more in. 
I am getting rid of the mangle of different hose lengths and sizes. I will end up using all 24" and 36" hoses so I can have 2 spares of each and that will cover any failure. 
I do need to figure out how to make a line to go from one side to the other for the second hose for the new cylinders. Id rather make a second hardline instead of using hoses, unless someone with more experience says Im over thinking it and just use hoses. 
I also had to special order a new radiator cap from NAPA. Thinking that I might install an overflow bottle also.


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## 40Windsor

Cleaned out 2 TSC stores. Youd think theyd have more than 2 of each hose and fitting size as a standard # on hand. Anyways. 2 hoses short, gotta wait til they restock on the 15th.


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## Fragger

Ifin you have trouble with thiefs put you up a sign that says, "watch out for loose snakes !!
Thanks for sharing all the information!!


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## 40Windsor

Problem is junkies. My property is around 25 miles from the closest "town". 1/4 mile long driveway off the highway, but it is all sagebrush and dirt. So, somewhat easy to see from the highway. I may, or may not get a backhoe....








I will be running the driveway to keep sagebrush from growing back, clearing the partially cleared area to a 50ft radius circle, and running a path around the entire 40 acres to give a ~1 mile track around the property.


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## 40Windsor

Got dark before I remembered to get a picture. But, got some work done today. I ground down the pin tubes on the new cylinders to fit the FEL, drilled new pin holes on the lift arm brackets, figured out that I am going to have to cut off the pump guard to allow the arms to go negative, found that the hose from the pump to the hardline going to the manifold wasnt worth waiting to replace but the fitting wont budge at the pump. 
I will get some pictures tomorrow. I will be reshaping the lift arm brackets and cutting the pump guard off. Spent a couple hours waxing my truck, so I didnt get as much done in the tractor as I wanted.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> Cleaned out 2 TSC stores. Youd think theyd have more than 2 of each hose and fitting size as a standard # on hand. Anyways. 2 hoses short, gotta wait til they restock on the 15th.


I find TSC to be lame on stocking items. They overstock on stuff I have no need for and I don't see those things flying off the shelves wither. Very weird. In the south ASC is stocked nicely and in the eastern mid-west Rural King is stocked very good.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> Problem is junkies. My property is around 25 miles from the closest "town". 1/4 mile long driveway off the highway, but it is all sagebrush and dirt. So, somewhat easy to see from the highway. I may, or may not get a backhoe....
> View attachment 50741
> 
> I will be running the driveway to keep sagebrush from growing back, clearing the partially cleared area to a 50ft radius circle, and running a path around the entire 40 acres to give a ~1 mile track around the property.


Whether you have a Harbor Freight nearby or order on-line, they have this driveway alarm setup for about $10. Folks have used these for all kinds of things. I have one on the chicken coop should any night time critter wants to see some long barrels focused their way.

If you plan on making a raceway, why not a moat with a drawbridge.


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## 40Windsor

Moat and draw bridge would be fun, but expensive and I dont think BLM would want me to put a draw bridge on the easement. They already said no to guard rails to keep jack***** from driving into the ditch and messing up my culvert again. 
Im getting stuff from TSC because of price. Napa wants $45 per 24" hose. Being unable to work, my disability pay keeps me on a limited monthly expendable budget.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> I dont think BLM would want me to put a draw bridge on the easement. They already said no to guard rails to keep jack***** from driving into the ditch and messing up my culvert again.


Nothing is stopping you from having a corral entrance gate on your side.


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## 40Windsor

That is actually something I am planning eventually. Gate from the easement onto the driveway (keep cars out), then fence out the area that will be cleared with its own gate (keep cows out).


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> That is actually something I am planning eventually. Gate from the easement onto the driveway (keep cars out), then fence out the area that will be cleared with its own gate (keep cows out).


Hey, unmarked trespassing cows is 9/10th new ownership. why block out cows that want to be yours now.


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## 40Windsor

Only blocking them out of where I am clearing. They will have 39.75 acres where they can roam. Keeping most of it uncleared to help keep dust down (adding wind break bushes when I get out there long term) and to allow the tasty animals the ability to wander onto the property.


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## 40Windsor

Cut the pump guard off, going to build a new one that will give me more room to manuever the pump of needed and clear the loader crossmember.


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## 40Windsor

Another angle.


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## 40Windsor

Reshaped the lift arm brackets to accomodate the new (longer) cylinders and allow bucket to drop lower. 
Tomorrow, I will weld the cotter pin keepers back on.


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## 40Windsor

Welded the pin keepers back on and threw a coat of paint on the brackets. 








New cylinders fit perfectly. I need to go to town to get some pipe and fittings to make the new line to go across the tractor since I am going from single to double acting cylinders. Going with 1/2 black with a T on the right and a 90 on the left with reducers to hook up the 3/8 hose.
Ace has 36" in black, but the only 24" is galvanized.


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## 40Windsor

All pressure hoses replaced, all fittings replaced, added 2nd circuit. Prefilled cylinders and hardlines to bleed out air. 
Everything works, and works quickly without any stuttering. So, I think I got all the air out with my method. 
Tomorrow, I will put the front tires of blocks so I can drop the arms as far as the cylinders let them go and rebuild the pump guard to clear when the bucket is all the way down. 
This picture is with the bucket 1" nose down sitting on a 2"x8". I will measure how far below grade it will go with the bucket level.


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## 40Windsor

Well, ammeter is dead for sure. Switched wires around, stays -60 unless I smack it then it will bounce around for a sec and drop back down. Not worried, I want to put a volt gauge on instead. 
Alternator seems to have changed its decision on when to start charging. Was at 800 when I put it on, now it wants 1300. Again, no worries, I put the idiot light on to tell me when it isnt charging. 

Got the carport cleared of firewood today and put the tractor in it. So, no longer under the pop-up canopy. Tomorrow, I will put the hood & fenders back on and start pulling the front end apart to service the bearings.


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## 40Windsor

Sheet metal reinstalled. 








Still dripping oil out of the steering. It'll stop, someday. 








With the bucket flat, it will now go 5" down. More than enough for what I need.


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## 40Windsor

Bearings are good, seals have been shot for a while. Grease has the consistency of Big League Chew bubble gum after about 20 minutes. I am ordering new seals and will strip and clean both sides when they get here.
While I have it in the garage to do that, I will also widen the rear wheels and make a bracket to move the fenders out. This will make it easier for me to get on the tractor. With the FEL, it is a little tight getting on/off. Should also give me a bit more room for adding a rack.


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## 40Windsor

Got bored today, so I went ahead and took the wheels out to 60". Unfortunately, the weights wont fit over the center section of the wheels. 
I am debating of I want to cut the weights (45 the inside edge 1") to make it fit on the outside of the wheel instead of the inside.


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## 40Windsor

Working on the fender extensions. Using 1/4" steel diamond plate (scrap). When I am done, I will sandblast and paint them.


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## 40Windsor




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## pogobill

I have the same sort of arrangement on my 8N, but to move the fenders in slightly, to avoid being caught in the tracks.


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## 40Windsor

My main issue was that I had to turn sideways and kind of crawl onto the seat because of the FEL. Now, I can step on pretty easily. I am going to use some of the leftover diamond plate and make a step on the lower tube of the FEL so that I am not stepping onto a 1/2" plate edge. I will put up a picture in a while when I get out there to show what I mean.


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## 40Windsor

One step installed.


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## 40Windsor

Seems the tractor doesnt weigh enough to get rid of the smile in the bucket. Put a 4x4 under the lowest point and pushed down. Front end lifted up, and the bucket frowned a bit. But, the smile was still there when I raised the bucket. 
I either need to get a torch, or find someone with an excavator that could push down on the buckey after I remove and flip it over.


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## 40Windsor

A week of pain and cruddy weather. Im still working on figuring out how to cut a 45* angle on the inside edge of the weights to fit on the outside of the wheels. 
Recip saw killed two blades in an inch of cut. Cutoff wheel might work to get it close enough to grind to final size. Or, just not put them back on.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Couldn't you use longer bolts and spacers? Or am I missing something.


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## FredM

how about some longer bolts and make some extension pieces to move the weight away from the rim enough,--- or you could swap the rims and tyres to the opposite sides and the weights will be on the outside, might change the wheel centers a bit but at least you will have wheel weights.


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## FredM

oops!!!, 3 minute difference is all it took to cross up Hoodoo, we'll have to wait for 40Windsor to come back.


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## 40Windsor

Sorry for the delay. Technical issues with internet access. 
Thought about spacers, but didnt want to put 2" spacers on to get it far enough out. I can actually see in the center where they previously tried and jammed the weights into the centers. 
I found that cutting slots into the weight then hitting it with a mallet to knock off the wedge works well. Going to get a handheld bandsaw to finish cutting them then hit them with a grinder to finish the shape. 
As for changing the wheels to the other side, already did that. Got it to the widest I could while still fitting where I want it on my trailer and still have the rear blade extend past the tire for running down the edge of my driveway.


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## FredM

gotcha!!


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## 40Windsor

Went up to the machine shop today to check on something. Ended up with a 4ft long carbide tipped planer knife. One of the local mills changed out knives and tossed the old ones out.


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## Hoodoo Valley

Nice score!


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## 40Windsor

That piece of metal on the ground below it is the edge guard. Definately needs it for now. That carbide edge is sharp. 
I plan to get a Piranha tooth bar before I put it to work on my property. But, I couldnt pass up the knife at the price of free. I will cut out the old edge and get rid of the previous owners smile for good and weld the new edge on. That will give me a good straight bucket for the Piranha. 
I might grab an extra blade or two, oil and wrap them, then put them in the shed. That way, I can forget I have them if I ever need to replace the edge again.


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## Hoodoo Valley

For free, yeah, I'd pick up a few of them for sure. I used to have a 2 foot piece like that, I had a friend weld handles on it and used it for peeling the logs to the house I'm living in. I tried chopping through a knot and hit my knee cap. Still have the scar from that mistake! I was 13 years old.


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## 40Windsor

Spent a month working on my trailer, back to working on the tractor while it rains.
I got rid of the 16.5" front wheels with 9.5-16.5 and 10-16.5 tires. Got a set of 16s from a '90 Dodge 3/4 ton with pretty good 235/65r16 tires that fit better and give me a broader range of tire selections.








Today, I pulled the front end apart to repack wheel bearings and replace wheel seals. Decided to go ahead and pull the spindles off to clean the shafts and get all the old grease out. Found that the right dust seal was non-existant, so I went ahead and ordered new ones along with new tie rod ends.

I also added some lighting to the tractor. Dont plan to do any work in the dark, but you never know.
Amber comes on with the ignition.








White is on a switch.








Fronts are on a switch.








Note-wiring got put into loom and secured after picture.
The FEL blocks lights from being mounted on the front fenders. When I build a rops/fops, I will move the lights overhead so they are out of line of sight and give better coverage.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> I also added some lighting to the tractor. Dont plan to do any work in the dark, but you never know.
> 
> The FEL blocks lights from being mounted on the front fenders. When I build a rops/fops, I will move the lights overhead so they are out of line of sight and give better coverage.


Looks as if you can add ROPs too. Then the lighting would never be blocked.


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## 40Windsor

Yep. Thats the plan. Plus itll give me a spot to put a cover to make it so I dont sunburn in the summer.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> Yep. Thats the plan. Plus itll give me a spot to put a cover to make it so I dont sunburn in the summer.


There are 2 or 3 companies that make ROPs for the early Ford machines. AND, there is a ROPs rebate program you can find on the web too.


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## 40Windsor

Added some horns, since every wheeled vehicle should have a set. 
Grabbed these off a F250. Mounted them above the radiator behind the hood emblem. Did have to clearance them for the rad cap, but the fit is good. Close the hood and no one knows it has horns.


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## bmaverick

40Windsor said:


> Added some horns, since every wheeled vehicle should have a set.
> Grabbed these off a F250. Mounted them above the radiator behind the hood emblem. Did have to clearance them for the rad cap, but the fit is good. Close the hood and no one knows it has horns.


SWEET DEAL. And it's a pair too. 

My Yanmar came with a factor horn, but after the full restore, the standard wire-harness used on a several models omitted the wiring and switch. It was easy to add. Oddly, the horn has that 1980s Japan import Nissan sound. LOL  A Ford F250 should sound like a real trumpet!


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## 40Windsor

My bucket no longer has a smile. 
Added the toe chopper (hence the blade guard) and some reinforcement. I gotta straighten the top edge and reinforcement to it.


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## 40Windsor

Go the inside and bottom of the bucket cleaned and painted. Used some Rustoleum brush/roll on oil based paint (something leftover from another project). 
You can really see how the bucket has been worked on in the past. I might plate the back since it had some weak points. 








I still need to straighten and reinforce the top lip. But, all these plans may be taken off the burner completely and put on the shelf for a while. Talking with the neurosurgeon on friday to see what the plan is to keep me out of a wheelchair a couple years longer.


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## 40Windsor

Going to have an extra year to work on the tractor before I get to put it to use. Going under the knife again.


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## pogobill

40Windsor said:


> Going to have an extra year to work on the tractor before I get to put it to use. Going under the knife again.


That's not good news 40Windsor. Wish you well and good luck. Make sure you stick around and keep us posted on both your progress and that of your projects.


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## 40Windsor

It actually is good news. Dealing with chronic back pain from multiple issues. At the end of April, the VA will be working on a herniated disc that is compressing the cord, clearing out bone spurs, and figuring out what a mass is on my spine and hopefully removing it (growth, not spine).


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## 40Windsor

Friday, tractor is going over to the shop to get the rear hoop and possibly the front runners of a ROPS/FOPS built. Once that is done, I will start working on getting things cleaned up and painted to stop rust. Then, I will drop the pan and redo the rear main seal since it is puking oil through the side seals (oil running down the bell housing cover with very little coming out the drain hole).


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## 40Windsor

Got the tubing bent up. Had him leave the pieces long so I could set it up how I wanted. Used 1.75x.095 tubing. 
Got the rear hoop angled back 10*, tacked to the base plates, and cross bar tacked in. 

















Got the front bars cut to size and ready to be tacked in.


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## 40Windsor




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## deerhide

40Windsor said:


> It actually is good news. Dealing with chronic back pain from multiple issues. At the end of April, the VA will be working on a herniated disc that is compressing the cord, clearing out bone spurs, and figuring out what a mass is on my spine and hopefully removing it (growth, not spine).


I know about a herniated disc...Should of had mine fixed 10 yrs. ago when the Dr. offered. I thought maybe it would get better and I was busy busy. Best of luck.


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## Groo

40Windsor said:


> View attachment 53683
> View attachment 53685


Need diagonal bracing for that tube to stand a chance in a rollover. Safer to have nothing getting in the way of an escape than a cage that would fail.


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## 40Windsor

Groo said:


> Need diagonal bracing for that tube to stand a chance in a rollover. Safer to have nothing getting in the way of an escape than a cage that would fail.


Yep. Just working with what metal I have on hand and the steel shop is closed saturday & sunday.


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## 40Windsor

Also need to get a new seat and seatbelt. But, with back surgery next month, I am mainly getting the basics done so I can put a tarp on it to keep the rain/sun/bird crap off until the doc says I can do some work. 
Dont really "need" a rops/cage as the intended area of use is flat high with sagebrush with maybe 2 feet in surface variation across 40 acres. But, I definately do need somewhere to put a sun shade, fan, cooler, and cup holder.... So, think of it as an overbuilt tool rack.


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## pogobill

You might want to give the seat belt a miss. I doubt if you'll flip the tractor, but if you do, I think a good seat belt works well with a ROPS, to keep you in the envelope of the operators station. With out proper roll over protection you may want to ability to get yourself clear of the tractor so as not to get pinned.


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## 40Windsor

Gotta run a tube from the outrigger to the upright, but I am working slow on it. Picked up a tonneau cover for cheap.


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## 40Windsor

Having more issues with my back, and legs not doing what I tell them. Unfortunately, my surgery will probably be cancelled by the VA since it is classified as an elective.


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## pogobill

Well, hang in there 40Windsor. You don't want to push things and make yourself worse at this point. 
That roof is coming along fine! What is that yellow light on the back? Is it a strobe?


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## 40Windsor

I have the amber wired to turn on with the ignition. Basically just a running light if I drive it down to the gas station.
Turn the ign on and amber comes on. Flip the switch and it switches to white along with the other two lights turning on. 








I enjoy having lots of light if needed. Have a dash light that also turns on to remind me the rear white light is on so that I dont leave them on if I dont need them. I plan to put a Renogy 100w solar panel on top to keep it charged up when not in use (my property gets lots of sun and has zero shade above 2ft other than a handfull of 6ft sagebrush.


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## deerhide

Quite a project. Plenty lights........good idea. Does anyone bale that sagebrush and burn it in a furnace?


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## 40Windsor

No, the sagebrush doesnt get used for anything. I plan to eventually do a burn pile to get rid of the stuff that has been cut down. But that will have to be a winter project so that everything standing is nice and wet.


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## deerhide

Iv'e seen pixs of it blown up against a fence.......maybe it don't get very cold there where u live....


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## 40Windsor

Where the property is, it gets into the teens and single digits in winter. Just not many people. Closest neighbor is 3/4 mile away with 4 (I think) within a 5 mile radius.


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## 40Windsor

Time has left me without options, I need to reseal my hydraulic pump. I am tired of changing its diaper.


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## 40Windsor

I will build a new guard for it while I am down there. Going to make a removable guard using tube, roll cage disconnects, and expanded steel.
When done, it wont block the pump as the original 1/4" flat bar did.


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## Groo

40Windsor said:


> Time has left me without options, I need to reseal my hydraulic pump. I am tired of changing its diaper.


Might be better off replacing it. Seals won't fix wear on the body around the gear tips. Getting sever al larger gear pumps rebuilt, the service center guys managed to get less than half of them to pass the new pump performance test. These were pump with relatively few hours on them. They got hit with inlet spikes and we're leaking from the input seal.


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## 40Windsor

That is something I was thinking about after seeing that recommendation in my search for parts info. But, I will tear it apart anyways (I enjoy pulling stuff apart) to see if it is salvagable.


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## Groo

I couldn't tell you a ballpark tip clearance, but if you even the slightest bit of scuffing, get a new one.


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## 40Windsor

Update
Got the pump pulled apart and cleaned up. All bronze components look almost new,_ gears _have a little discoloration (almost looks like paint splatter) but not pitting and very little contact pattern marking, and it was remarkably clean inside.
The leak was definately just the seal, caused by the PO doing a force fit of the pump hub and driveshaft.
Napa was of no use in getting a seal, he couldnt find the book to get a seal by the measurements. So, I will go into town on monday to visit the other napa where I have had better luck getting parts.
The only concern I have is with the bypass spring plate. It is missing two spring bars on one side (suppose to be 3 per side). There wasnt any debris inside the pump, so I am thinking the PO may have had the pump rebuilt at one time and they didnt bother to replace the broke spring plate. If I can find one, I will replace it. If not, I will run it the way it was.


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## Groo

Don't have much experience with vane pumps. They are very vulnerable to cavitation, and generally are near 100% until they self destruct.


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## 40Windsor

Groo said:


> Don't have much experience with vane pumps. They are very vulnerable to cavitation, and generally are near 100% until they self destruct.


Sorry. Dont know why I put vanes and not gears. I guess I was spending too much time looking into vane pump replacements. It is a gear pump.


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## Groo

Don't replace it with a vane. All the inlet stuff would need to be changed.

As mentioned, I work with a big tandem gear pumps. It has a 2.5" inlet. The vane equivalent has a 4" inlet. In my industry, most vane pumps are paired with pressurized tanks because they are so sensitive to cavitation.


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## 40Windsor

Groo said:


> Don't replace it with a vane. All the inlet stuff would need to be changed.
> 
> As mentioned, I work with a big tandem gear pumps. It has a 2.5" inlet. The vane equivalent has a 4" inlet. In my industry, most vane pumps are paired with pressurized tanks because they are so sensitive to cavitation.


Thanks for that info. I will look elsewhere if it comes to that. Any reccomendations on inexpensive replacement pumps? 
I just ordered a replacement seal through a local industrial hydraulic shop for $4.50. Will be here wed. 
If it still leaks, I will take the shaft and cover to the machine shop that does work for me and get them milled to fit an easy to find seal. If I can get it sealed up for under $40, I will be very happy.


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## Groo

40Windsor said:


> Thanks for that info. I will look elsewhere if it comes to that. Any reccomendations on inexpensive replacement pumps?
> I just ordered a replacement seal through a local industrial hydraulic shop for $4.50. Will be here wed.
> If it still leaks, I will take the shaft and cover to the machine shop that does work for me and get them milled to fit an easy to find seal. If I can get it sealed up for under $40, I will be very happy.


Your pump doesn't have a standard style of mounting (bolted to the underside of the pump) so would likely need to be replaced by an identical pump, or you will need to get a mount as well.

Most pumps mount on the face that the input shaft goes into.


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## 40Windsor

Update and info for the future if anyone does a keyword search for Wagner WF3 gear hydraulic pump.

SKF seal # 7513
SKF Speedi-Sleeve # 99076

On mine, install depth from end of shaft to top edge of sleeve was 30.5mm. Verify your needed depth prior to install.

To install the seal, I had to use a dremel and sanding wheel to remove the distortion left by being previously run with the hub jammed into the housing.


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## 40Windsor

Got the base set 1/2" higher than it use to be to get everything lined up. Got the guard legs welded up, need to pick up some expanded steel to cover the pump. Going to go up to the hydraulic shop on monday to get replacement pickup and return hoses.


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## 40Windsor

Got 'er back together and filled back up. Ran for about 5 min with no leak. Looks like I got it sealed up. 
Next is going to be the rear main seal. Side seals leak pretty good. Have a bit of oil making it to the drain hole at the bottom, but mostly running down the front of the flywheel/clutch cover.


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## 40Windsor

I took the el cheapo stab jack off my cargo trailer-travel trailer conversion when I got it. The stab jack has been sitting in the random parts pile ever since. Finally found a good use for it.


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## pogobill

Looks to be a good use for the jack. It does flip up out of the way, right?


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## Groo

pogobill said:


> Looks to be a good use for the jack. It does flip up out of the way, right?


doesn't need to as when in use, the blade frame should be horizontal, so when set up for use, it should never get low enough to hit the dirt.


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## 40Windsor

It does fold up out of the way. Ill get a picture of it folded up today when I pull it off to put it back over in storage.


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## 40Windsor




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## pogobill

Pretty Cool!! I have a piece of pipe with a foot on it that came with my blade. Found it this past summer after the thing bounced out of the pocket for it and was lost for about three years! It's bent a little, but I'll keep an eye on it now.


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## 40Windsor

Added a comfy seat. Need to finish tightening it down and getting it set for me. It does sit a bit higher, but it is more comfortable.


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## 40Windsor

Working on building a tool/cooler rack. Unfortunately, the shop that bent the tubing for me bent it 1/2" wider than specified. So, I had to take some out of the middle(ish). I didnt have a piece of tubing the correct OD to fit the ID of the tube, so I took a piece of end cutoff and notched it then I hammered it to fit the ID. That gave me a good base to get a solid weld while keeping it straight. 








I am loving my tubing notcher. Makes fitting tubes much easier. 
Tomorrow, I will work on getting it tacked on and cut/fit the rest of the base. I am going to cut some scrap tubing in half and weld the halves side to side to make clamps for shovel and ax then I will figure out a mount for a farm jack (might mount that on top of the bucket but not sure yet).


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## 40Windsor

Need to take thw fenders off to finish up the weld. But, I need to get a new set of tips as mine is spitting and sputtering.


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## 40Windsor

While waiting for paint to dry, I decided to work on the grill. Just need to make a couple tabs for the rear and paint it up. 
Pump and hoses are now protected if I need to drive through sagebrush with the bucket up.


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## 40Windsor

Decided I didnt like how high the seat was. So, I chopped it up and rebuilt the base. Got rid of the slider since it wobbled and I dont need to be able to slide it. Built it with the slider base (nice thick metal) and some scrap 1" square tubing that was leftover from the trunk flooring structure of my car. I was able to get 2 3/4" drop.


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## pogobill

I had a seat just like that on my 8N, but it was a bit rough and started soaking up water. Did a direct replacement with a new, what I thought, was an identical unit. It is not the same.... an offshore manufactured model, I believe. I sit so high now, I feel like I'm in a booster seat! I may have to put the new cushions on the old frame.... if they even fit?


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## 40Windsor

pogobill said:


> I had a seat just like that on my 8N, but it was a bit rough and started soaking up water. Did a direct replacement with a new, what I thought, was an identical unit. It is not the same.... an offshore manufactured model, I believe. I sit so high now, I feel like I'm in a booster seat! I may have to put the new cushions on the old frame.... if they even fit?


This one is a CountyLine from TSC. If you want the bolt pattern, let me know and I will take the cushions off and get the pattern.


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## pogobill

I'm good 40Windsor, I am planning on putting the new seat cushions on the old frame, but thanks for the offer.


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## 40Windsor

No worries. 
Just ordered some mandrel bent bends to redo the hacked together exhaust. Will post pictures when i build it. One thing I noticed when I drove the tractor down to the shop is that I got a constant face full of exhaust. I will be rerouting it up the left strut to about 6" below the canopy and out the side (maybe towards the back, but I havent decided).


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## 40Windsor

Bent the bottom of the grill back to give it more of a finished look and painted it up.








Moved the light mount from the rear of the left fender to the front of the right. I will use this as a mounting point for a bottle holder.


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## 40Windsor

This was while fitting, I have since welded it on and primed the metal.


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## 40Windsor

Working on getting the exhaust out of my face. Need to finish up a couple more hangers, add a couple clamps and a rain cap. Then, pull it all back off for paint.


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## Groo

40Windsor said:


> Working on getting the exhaust out of my face. Need to finish up a couple more hangers, add a couple clamps and a rain cap. Then, pull it all back off for paint.
> View attachment 55577
> View attachment 55579
> View attachment 55581


Too late to run it out the front?

I could see branches pinching that off.


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## 40Windsor

Groo said:


> Too late to run it out the front?
> 
> I could see branches pinching that off.


I had considered running it up front and then underneath. However, I know at some point, I will end up parked with sagebrush under the tractor and I would prefer not to take the chance of starting that stuff on fire. I have no trees on my property (the reason for the canopy), but the 90* elbow is going to remain a slip on fit with a single retaining screw incase that ever is a concern.


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## pogobill

Just don't grab hold of it to get off of the tractor!


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## 40Windsor

Yeah, that wouldnt be comfortable. Thankfully, I can get on and off the tractor without touching it or smacking my head....


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## 40Windsor

Hey folks. Sorry it's been a while, lots going on....
I'm thinking of converting the FEL from single cylinder to dual cylinders and changing to a quick connect bucket setup. Anyone have experience with doing this?
I'm currently working as a watchman for a logging company and only get down into town every other week. Will be going down next week and take a look at the FEL to figure out brackets.


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## pogobill

Welcome back! I've never done that sort of work to a tractor, but sounds like an interesting project in the works.


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## 40Windsor

Thanks. 
It's one of the ideas that came to mind while spending my time in my trailer keeping track of vehicles going by on the heavily traveled BLM road because I'm 2 miles from the job site I watch. Hoping they will move me closer once they finish logging out one corner 1/4 from the site. If they do, I'll bring the tractor up here to work on it.


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