# First restoration



## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

starting my first restoration on my 504. Will be posting when I work on it. I have all kinds of time to work on it. U just don't have the pocket book for everything at once. So first thing is painting. What should I use for the primer? I want to blast the tins but don't want them sitting around bare. Also where the heck is my model/serial number suposed to be.


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## BigT (Sep 15, 2014)

Howdy Adam, welcome to the tractor forum.

You will be amazed how fast freshly blasted metal will start to rust. You will have to get primer on it quickly. 

You will want a primer that dries with an etched surface to allow the paint to cling to it. Talk to a paint shop. Probably not cheap??


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

First time since its been in the family. Took the weights off the front. Got the breaks tore apart and the tractors rolling freely. What do you guys think. Can I save the break actuator or is it to far gone


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## Hoodoo Valley (Nov 14, 2006)

Right on! I wish I had more time myself. I wouldn't sand blast any of your sheet metal. As big t stated, you'll have rust by next morning. It's fast, but pre fragments your surface for rust, moreso than sanding.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

I was thinking about sand blasting and priming with rustolium self etch primmer. Then when all the parts are primed i will paint. Taking the radiator apart next. Lots of parts to blast and paint. Also does anyone know what paint color to use for ih red.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

I have decided to start a youtube channel. Video is ih 504 restoration. Took off the staring wheel and instrument panel.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Any idea on the id tag??


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Got some more parts removed this week.


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## pogobill (Jan 31, 2012)

Adam h said:


> Any idea on the id tag??


http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/004/6/6/4664-farmall-504.html
Seems it could be a 1964. Also go easy on scraping the paint off around serial numbers! You don't want to make hard to read numbers worse.


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## bones66 (Apr 22, 2011)

I have actually heard pretty good things about the Majic line of paints and materials.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

pogobill said:


> http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/004/6/6/4664-farmall-504.html
> Seems it could be a 1964.


I cleaned up the tag a bit and reads. 7992. Y-FF.
Whats the y-ff stand for.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Got a bit more off. And found a bit more wrong with it. Starter didn't have any shims so its been running on the ring gear.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Rocker arms only 2 of them were snug to the push rods. Piston sleaves look good for what I can seen. Valves need to be cleaned and checked yet.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Watch "The restless squirrel" on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCMfUn-SWaHEB5jmaCSDkSUA

My youtube channel. Recording almost everything.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Got the motor pulled. Also had to make motor brackets


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## Bob Williams (Sep 7, 2020)

bones66 said:


> I have actually heard pretty good things about the Majic line of paints and materials.


"House of Color" has anything you can ever need in the line of paints, advice, etc. You can contact them by email and they will give recommendations for your specific project. Very easy to work with. Their products are top quality, but they are not cheap.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Well just got bad news with this restoration. Block needs to be bored and crank shaft needs to be recut. Along with new pistons boring out the cylinders and reworking the head. I was quoted 2200 for everything.


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## Aberdare (Mar 19, 2020)

Really? Bore the block?... it should be *sleeved*. If the head, deck and valve seats are in good condition, you may only need to scuff & clean it with a scotchbright pad, then clean the surface with alcohol or acetone.

Is the engine Knocking? There is absolutely no reason to cut the crankshaft unless a main bearing or rod bearing has welded itself to the journal. If the crank spins - just install over size bearings, BUT do check clearances with a plasti-gauge first.

In all seriousness... I think you may want a second opinion, because it is not a ford or chevy... its a CASE. Saeli Implements, located in Geneva, NY will have pretty much everything you may need to rebuild/recondition the engine INFRAME.

http://saeliimplement.com/
(315) 585-9826... Ask for Chris - HE KNOWS Case.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Thats to line bore the crank shaft bearing surface on the block. Re cut the crank shaft bearing surfaces. Center bearing didn't spin but it was close to spinning. New pistons and bearings. I had 1 cracked piston. Re do the head. Cleaning it up and all new valves and clean up the rockers surfaces. And boring the block for the new pistons. And it will get stripped to bare metal and all new gaskets. I was told sleeving it to standard size will add about $400. I have an adjustable carb so I dont need to sleave it.


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## Aberdare (Mar 19, 2020)

Adam:
In all seriousness... you may want to get yourself a 2nd opinion before moving forward. As a professional mechanic myself, I see things like this far too often. We have new customers coming into our shop, only to find out the original shop they went to are only inflating a job cost, so you run away quicker than you came in, or they are doing alot of "Extras" so they can inflate your repair invoice. From reading your post(s)... something doesn't seem right to me.

Once again, get a 2nd opinion before you move forward.


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## Adam h (Aug 13, 2020)

Know anyone in michigan? Lol. Thats where the case ih dealer sent me. In the spring when I have saved up a little bit I will look around for different shops. Until then I can keep busy sandblasting and painting.


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## Aberdare (Mar 19, 2020)

Adam h said:


> Know anyone in michigan? Lol. Thats where the case ih dealer sent me. In the spring when I have saved up a little bit I will look around for different shops. Until then I can keep busy sandblasting and painting.


You can always go old school and use today's internet equivalent, using the google machine to find a local shop... or at least one closer to home. Alas, I am in Canada and my options are limited... but I am a mechanic by trade, so I do know a thing or two when a workshop is throwing a smoke show at me. I also have the measuring tools to sort out what is good or bad prior to approaching a workshop for a quote.


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